Times of the Islands Summer 2024
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
Presents the "soul of the Turks & Caicos Islands" with in-depth features about local people, culture, history, environment, real estate, businesses, resorts, restaurants and activities.
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TIMES<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2024</strong> NO. 147<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
COOL DONKEYS<br />
Fine art in Grand Turk<br />
DOLPHINS TO THE RESCUE<br />
Survivors at sea
Comfort Food Just Went A-list.<br />
If your idea <strong>of</strong> comfort feels like<br />
cashmere, you will find its culinary<br />
equivalent at Almond Tree,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Shore Club’s deliciously<br />
decadent new eatery.<br />
Golden, crusty wood-fired pizza.<br />
Savory skillets, bubbling over with flavor<br />
and just oozing with temptation.<br />
Salads and sides that give new meaning<br />
to <strong>the</strong> word “indulgence.”<br />
These days, we’re all hungry<br />
for contentment and satisfaction.<br />
Almond Tree at <strong>the</strong> Shore Club<br />
simply takes it to a whole new level.<br />
Reservations 649 339 8000<br />
<strong>the</strong>shoreclubtc.com<br />
ALMOND TREE<br />
COURTYARD BAR<br />
Dinner 6 –10:30pm<br />
5pm – Midnight
Building Your Vision, Delivering Excellence, and Exceeding Expectations -<br />
Time After Time.<br />
Projetech <strong>of</strong>fers turnkey Construction Management and General Contracting<br />
Services for Residential, Commercial and Hotel & Condominium Projects in <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Our depth <strong>of</strong> experience is unrivaled and our commitment<br />
to quality shows in <strong>the</strong> hundreds <strong>of</strong> projects we’ve completed in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
since our beginnings in 1996.<br />
ESTABLISHED 1996<br />
CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT & SERVICES LTD<br />
PO BOX 659 | PROJECT HOUSE | LEEWARD HIGHWAY | PROVIDENCIALES | TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS<br />
T: 649.941.3508 | F: 649.941.5824 | INFO@PROJETECH.TC | WWW.PROJETECH.TC |
contents<br />
Departments<br />
6 From <strong>the</strong> Editor<br />
21 Looking Back<br />
Hurricanes Making History<br />
By Bengt Soderqvist<br />
26 Creature Feature<br />
Masters <strong>of</strong> Change: Peacock Flounders<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
62 Resort Report<br />
Designed to Be Different:<br />
Ocean Breeze Resort, North Caicos<br />
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />
77 About <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>/TCI Map<br />
81 Subscription Form<br />
82 Classified Ads<br />
Features<br />
38 When Art is Joy<br />
The making <strong>of</strong> a fine arts gallery—<br />
Grand Turk style<br />
Story & Photos By Titus de Boer<br />
44 Heroic Rescue at Sea<br />
Dolphins lead boat to plane crash survivors<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
54 “Burnt at Sea”<br />
The story behind <strong>the</strong> inscription on<br />
West Harbour Bluff<br />
By Jeff Dodge<br />
Green Pages<br />
32 One Fragment at a Time<br />
Restoring TCI reefs<br />
By Kort Alexander and Kara Rumage<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS SUMMER <strong>2024</strong> NO. 147<br />
On <strong>the</strong> Cover<br />
Aysha Stephen is Grand Turk’s newest artistic sensation,<br />
renowned for her iconic “Cool Donkeys” paintings.<br />
Aysha’s love <strong>of</strong> art started at Richmond Hill Prep Primary<br />
School in Providenciales. She started painting in 2013,<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essionally since 2016, “doing what I love and bringing<br />
happy art to o<strong>the</strong>rs.” Her creations are quite <strong>the</strong> hit<br />
with visitors to TDB Fine Arts Gallery. It recently opened<br />
within <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum on Grand<br />
Turk and is dedicated to showcasing art “Made in TCI.”<br />
To read more, go to page 38.<br />
68<br />
Astrolabe<br />
68 Caring for <strong>the</strong> Beasts <strong>of</strong> Burden<br />
Peaceful Valley Donkey Rescue<br />
Story & Photos By Mark S. and Amy Meyers<br />
72 Run Aground<br />
Shipwrecks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong> (1500–1800)<br />
By James Jenney<br />
MARK S. MEYERS<br />
4 www.timespub.tc
Crafted for<br />
<strong>the</strong> fl ow <strong>of</strong> life.<br />
Formed within<br />
<strong>the</strong> fl ow <strong>of</strong> nature.<br />
A bold architectural statement, discover an intimate villa collection at <strong>the</strong> secluded tip<br />
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from nature, and crafted with clear intent for its place.<br />
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For more information contact<br />
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or email: contact@windward.tc<br />
Designed by: Developed by: Real Estate Sales by:
from <strong>the</strong> editor<br />
MICHAEL MORTON—WWW.HARBOURCLUBVILLAS.COM<br />
This playful dolphin is likely “Dreamer,” thought to be <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fspring <strong>of</strong> JoJo, Providenciales’ iconic Atlantic bottlenose dolphin. His playful<br />
antics and natural joy are truly “pure, lovely, and admirable.”<br />
Excellent and Worthy <strong>of</strong> Praise<br />
It’s been an unsettling Spring, with <strong>the</strong> cases <strong>of</strong> tourists arrested for having ammunition in <strong>the</strong>ir luggage initially<br />
drawing negative international attention, bomb threats, a dismaying shark attack, rainstorms bringing out <strong>the</strong> worse<br />
in <strong>the</strong> roads around Providenciales, too much construction, and election fever starting. Whew!<br />
But as usual, I find <strong>the</strong> perfect antidote in Scripture: “Fix your thoughts on what is true, and honorable, and right,<br />
and pure, and lovely, and admirable. Think about things that are excellent and worthy <strong>of</strong> praise.” (Philippians 4:8)<br />
This issue is full <strong>of</strong> such subjects, starting with Ben Stubenberg’s masterfully told tale <strong>of</strong> a rescue at sea spearheaded<br />
by a group <strong>of</strong> heroes from Grand Turk and a pod <strong>of</strong> dolphins. It reminds us that doing <strong>the</strong> right thing and Providence<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten work toge<strong>the</strong>r to make miracles happen. The concept is mirrored in <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong> how Titus de Boer started his<br />
new fine arts gallery in Grand Turk and <strong>the</strong> local artists who are filling its walls with treasures.<br />
Speaking <strong>of</strong> admirable feats, don’t miss Bengt Soderqvist’s recounting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1945 Hurricane that swept Gus<br />
Lightbourne and crew out to sea for 13 days and <strong>the</strong>ir memorable return home to Blue Hills 47 days later.<br />
Climate change continues to rear its head in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. “Excellent” is <strong>the</strong> work done by a group <strong>of</strong> caring, commited<br />
folks to help save and restore <strong>the</strong> beautiful reefs, “One Fragment at a Time.”<br />
I am always so grateful to our contributors, who are certainly “worthy <strong>of</strong> praise” for reminding us <strong>of</strong> things that<br />
are “true, honorable, and right.” Thank you for your reminders <strong>of</strong> all that is good.<br />
Kathy Borsuk, Editor<br />
timespub@tciway.tc • (649) 431-4788<br />
6 www.timespub.tc
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Experience Turks & Caicos dedicated to<br />
developing <strong>the</strong> tourism industry<br />
As <strong>the</strong> Destination Management and Marketing<br />
Organisation (DMMO) <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>,<br />
Experience Turks & Caicos is poised to lead <strong>the</strong> country<br />
into a new era <strong>of</strong> tourism excellence. By focusing on sustainable<br />
tourism development, community engagement<br />
across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, data collection, and product enhancement,<br />
<strong>the</strong> organisation is committed to building a vibrant<br />
and resilient tourism industry that benefits visitors and<br />
residents. Our strategic plans will ensure that <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
remains a top destination for travelers seeking unparalleled<br />
beauty, rich cultural heritage, and unforgettable<br />
experiences.<br />
Established in June 2023, Experience Turks & Caicos<br />
is a public/private partnership based on three key pillars—Sustainable<br />
Development, Inclusive Growth, and<br />
Competitiveness. Through Sustainable Development,<br />
Experience Turks & Caicos will ensure <strong>the</strong> protection and<br />
enhancement <strong>of</strong> all tourism assets and benefits. Based<br />
on this pillar, we will establish national and international<br />
partnerships to encourage <strong>the</strong> private, public, and civil<br />
sectors to work toge<strong>the</strong>r to make <strong>the</strong> tourism industry<br />
more sustainable and beneficial to all.<br />
As we market <strong>the</strong> TCI as a multi-island destination,<br />
Experience Turks & Caicos is seeking to ensure that all<br />
communities benefit from <strong>the</strong> tourism industry. Inclusive<br />
Growth speaks to that mission. Tourism is <strong>the</strong> main<br />
industry, <strong>the</strong> lifeblood and heartbeat <strong>of</strong> this country. As<br />
we invite visitors to explore our <strong>Islands</strong>, we are expanding,<br />
improving, and diversifying our products to reap<br />
maximum spend and improve <strong>the</strong> livelihoods <strong>of</strong> all.<br />
While <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top premier<br />
luxury destinations in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, we cannot rest on<br />
our laurels. Staying competitive requires us to collaborate<br />
and seek partnerships with stakeholders to ensure <strong>the</strong><br />
product we <strong>of</strong>fer remains at a quality one for <strong>the</strong> affluent,<br />
high-end market we target. Our Competitiveness is<br />
a key pillar to <strong>the</strong> survival and continued success <strong>of</strong> our<br />
tourism industry.<br />
To stay true to <strong>the</strong>se pillars, here are some initiatives<br />
that Experience Turks & Caicos will undergo this year.<br />
• “Rooted in Community, Growing Toge<strong>the</strong>r” This local<br />
campaign is designed to foster and develop a close relationship<br />
between <strong>the</strong> DMMO and communities around <strong>the</strong><br />
country. The campaign will include school visits, revival<br />
<strong>of</strong> tourism clubs in schools, showcasing <strong>of</strong> local entrepreneurs<br />
and artisans, and <strong>the</strong> celebration <strong>of</strong> national<br />
heroes.<br />
• Community Connect Meetings Experience Turks &<br />
Caicos launched its community meetings in North and<br />
Middle Caicos in April and will continue in <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
islands as well with tourism stakeholders. The meetings<br />
aim to educate everyone about <strong>the</strong> organisation, its plans,<br />
and to understand <strong>the</strong> needs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tourism stakeholders<br />
and where we can provide support.<br />
• Exquisite Turks & Caicos Through our Strategic<br />
Development Unit, we are seeking to develop immersive<br />
experiences for our visitors. We will be working with businesses<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tourism sector to enhance <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>of</strong>ferings<br />
through grants up to $5,000.<br />
• Product Development From hashtag signs and <strong>the</strong><br />
enhancement <strong>of</strong> trails to <strong>the</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> new products<br />
and <strong>the</strong> promotion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> weekly Fish Fry, we will be working<br />
closely with communities and stakeholders to ensure<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are products to draw visitors around <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
• Collaboration with Stakeholders Forging strategic<br />
partnerships with airlines, travel agents, tour operators,<br />
and international tourism organisations will expand reach<br />
and attract more visitors. By working toge<strong>the</strong>r with industry<br />
stakeholders, <strong>the</strong> organisation will create compelling<br />
travel packages, promote special <strong>of</strong>fers, and participate<br />
in global tourism events and trade shows. These partnerships<br />
will help all to stay informed about industry trends<br />
and best practices, ensuring that strategies remain relevant<br />
and effective.<br />
• Data Collection As a SMART DMO, Experience Turks<br />
& Caicos has invested in cutting edge data management<br />
platforms that will enable us to curate necessary and<br />
crucial data to guide <strong>the</strong> industry and inform marketing<br />
efforts.<br />
• Event Sponsorship To streng<strong>the</strong>n our relationship<br />
with <strong>the</strong> local community, Experience Turks & Caicos will<br />
support events across <strong>the</strong> nation. To date we have sponsored<br />
<strong>the</strong> Valentine’s Day Cup in Middle Caicos, <strong>the</strong> South<br />
Caicos Regatta, and <strong>the</strong> Sunkiss Festival.<br />
To keep in touch with Experience Turks and Caicos, follow us on our social media platforms:<br />
Facebook: My Experience TCI – Local and Turks & Caicos: My Experience TCI – Global<br />
Instagram: Myexperiencetci and Experienceturksandcaicos<br />
LinkedIn: Experience Turks and Caicos • Tik Tok: myexperiencetci<br />
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VILLA DETAILS SQUARE FOOTAGE PRICE MLS<br />
Grand Villa 7 Bedroom / 11 Bath 10,127 $15,141,600<br />
Bougainvillea 5 Bedroom / 9 Bath 6,631 $9,831,900 2300422<br />
UNIT # DETAILS SQUARE FOOTAGE PRICE MLS<br />
2C 2 nd Floor – 1 Bedroom/1 Bath/ Half Bath 1,600 $1,280,000 2300531<br />
2A 2 nd Floor – 1 Bedroom/1 Bath/ Half Bath 1,800 $1,440,000 2300584<br />
2D 2 nd Floor – 2 Bedroom/2 Bath/ Half Bath 2,382 $2,620,200 2300585<br />
3F 3 rd Floor – 2 Bedroom/2 Bath/ Half Bath 2,353 $2,648,300 2300532<br />
PENTHOUSE 2 Five Bedroom / Five Bathroom / Half Bath 10,425 $13,522,500 2400219<br />
FOR OWNERSHIP OPPORTUNITIES, CONTACT<br />
Robert Greenwood | +1 649 432 7653<br />
Walter Gardiner | +1 649 231 6461<br />
EMAIL: sales@<strong>the</strong>lorentci.com<br />
Member <strong>of</strong><br />
Prices Subject to Change
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UNIT # DETAILS SQUARE FOOTAGE PRICE<br />
A408 Fourth Floor – One Bedroom / One Bath / Half Bath 1,782 $1,650,000<br />
A414 Fourth Floor - Two Bedroom / Two Bath / Half Bath 2,229 $2,500,000<br />
A506 Fifth Floor – Two Bedroom / Two Bath / Half Bath 1,959 $2,500,000<br />
A512 Fifth Floor – One Bedroom / One Bath/ Half Bath 1,615 $1,700,000<br />
A604 Sixth Floor - Three Bedroom / Three Bath / Half Bath 2,801 $3,400,000<br />
FOR OWNERSHIP OPPORTUNITIES, CONTACT<br />
Robert Greenwood | +1 649 432 7653<br />
Walter Gardiner | +1 649 231 6461<br />
EMAIL: andaz@tcibrokers.com<br />
Member <strong>of</strong><br />
Prices Subject to Change
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
CLEAR | MOVE | FORWARD<br />
TCI’s local mover with global reach<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Kathy Borsuk<br />
ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Claire Parrish<br />
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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS<br />
Kort Alexander, Titus de Boer, Kathy Borsuk,<br />
Kelly Currington, Jeff Dodge, James Jenney, Mark S. and<br />
Amy Meyers, Jody Rathgeb, Kara Rumage,<br />
Bengt Soderqvist, Ben Stubenberg, Lisa Talbot.<br />
.<br />
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
Kort Alexander, Titus de Boer, Kelly Currington,<br />
Anthony Forbes—Triple A Event Photography, Heidi<br />
Hertler, iStock Photography, Dr. Donald H. Keith, Morgan<br />
Luker, Mark S. and Amy Meyers, Michael Morton, Ellington<br />
Osborne, Tom Rathgeb, Shutterstock, Jason Soderqvist,<br />
Lisa Talbot, Charlie Todd.<br />
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS<br />
Gideon Jacques Denny, Richard McGhie,<br />
Aysha Stephen, TCI Government Archives,<br />
Wavey Line Publishing.<br />
PRINTING<br />
PF Solutions, Miami, FL<br />
PROUD MEMBER:<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> ISSN 1017-6853 is<br />
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20 www.timespub.tc
looking back<br />
From September 12–18, 1945, “Hurricane #9” traveled from The Bahamas into Florida and <strong>the</strong> US East Coast as <strong>the</strong> second Category Four<br />
storm <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> season. This is <strong>the</strong> storm that swept Gus Lightbourne and his crew away from Providenciales and stranded <strong>the</strong>m at sea for 13<br />
days. After it passed over <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, it pounded <strong>the</strong> Florida coastline as shown above.<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK—THE EVERETT COLLECTION<br />
Hurricanes Making History<br />
How Providenciales’ historical hurricanes made <strong>the</strong>ir mark.<br />
By Bengt Soderqvist<br />
After Hurricane Dorian devastated <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn Bahamas in 2019 <strong>the</strong>re was a lot <strong>of</strong> speculation about<br />
what would happen to Providenciales if a similar hurricane would hit here. Dorian was very strong and<br />
moved slowly across <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn Bahamas, which created an enormous storm surge. We have been very<br />
fortunate on Providenciales. Not since Hurricane Donna in 1960 have any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricanes built up any<br />
significant storm surge. In trying to imagine what damage a hurricane with storm surge would do to<br />
Providenciales today, we can learn from history.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 21
When Hurricane Donna hit in September 1960 <strong>the</strong>re<br />
was no development in <strong>the</strong> low-lying areas that were<br />
flooded. From records available online we know that<br />
Donna passed Providenciales on <strong>the</strong> north side. The<br />
records don’t show <strong>the</strong> width <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> eye <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane,<br />
but very likely Providenciales was in <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn eyewall.<br />
The front spin must have caused enormous swells to be<br />
formed on <strong>the</strong> reef and a lot <strong>of</strong> water to be pushed inside<br />
<strong>the</strong> reef. I recall Frank Forbes and Alfred Stubbs from The<br />
Bight telling me that some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water came over <strong>the</strong><br />
dune, but it did not reach <strong>the</strong> settlement. In 1960, all <strong>the</strong><br />
sandy land in front <strong>of</strong> The Bight was available to soak up<br />
water. Most <strong>of</strong> that area is today covered with buildings<br />
and paved roads and parking lots.<br />
As Hurricane Donna moved to <strong>the</strong> west, <strong>the</strong> backspin<br />
pushed water onto <strong>the</strong> Caicos Bank. As more and<br />
more water was pushed to <strong>the</strong> north across <strong>the</strong> bank,<br />
it crashed into <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn shore. Where <strong>the</strong> land was<br />
low <strong>the</strong> water was pushed inland. From Five Cay Bay <strong>the</strong><br />
water was pushed north through Cheshire Hall Creek past<br />
<strong>the</strong> site <strong>of</strong> Walkin Marine and into <strong>the</strong> valley <strong>of</strong> where<br />
Kewtown is today.The main footpath between Blue Hills<br />
and Five Cays was crossing this valley. Charlie Rigby from<br />
Blue Hills told me that because <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> flooding <strong>the</strong> footpath<br />
could not be used for six weeks. Charlie also told<br />
me that “<strong>the</strong> water in <strong>the</strong> valley was so deep that we could<br />
dive for conch.” A storm surge like that today would put<br />
water on top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> check-out counters in <strong>the</strong> downtown<br />
Chris “Fineline” Stubbs shows Bengt Soderqvist <strong>the</strong> ”Donna Line” still<br />
visible on Bristol Hill. “Fineline” was part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> original survey team<br />
in 1966 and enjoyed returning to <strong>the</strong> scene 57 years later!<br />
grocery store.<br />
For my early survey work I used aerial photos that<br />
were taken in <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 1961, about six months<br />
after Hurricane Donna. In <strong>the</strong> photos a white line<br />
could be clearly seen along <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn shoreline <strong>of</strong><br />
Providenciales. The line showed <strong>the</strong> scar in <strong>the</strong> rocky terrain<br />
that <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> Donna’s tidal wave had created. The<br />
top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wave had removed <strong>the</strong> loose rocks and <strong>the</strong><br />
white limestone was left bare.<br />
When we did survey work in <strong>the</strong> area in late 1966, <strong>the</strong><br />
scars were still clearly visible. The guys on my survey<br />
team named it <strong>the</strong> “Donna Line.’’ The highest elevation<br />
JASON SODERQVIST<br />
TCI GOVERNMENT ARCHIVES<br />
These segments are part <strong>of</strong> an old map drawn from aerial photos taken in <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 1961. “Donna Cut” had been created about six months<br />
earlier and <strong>the</strong> storm surge from Hurricane Donna flushed out <strong>the</strong> sand and silt from <strong>the</strong> gap between Water Cay and Pine Cay. Notice <strong>the</strong><br />
name “Done Bobbin Point” at <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn tip <strong>of</strong> Little Water Cay.<br />
22 www.timespub.tc
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tidal wave was somewhere in <strong>the</strong> Bristol Point area<br />
in Turtle Tail at an elevation <strong>of</strong> +16 feet.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn part <strong>of</strong> Long Bay, close to <strong>the</strong> shipyard,<br />
<strong>the</strong> “Donna Line” was partway up <strong>the</strong> dune. In <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
part, Stubbs Cove, where <strong>the</strong> dune is lower, <strong>the</strong> water<br />
had pushed far inland. The people in The Bight told me<br />
that <strong>the</strong> water remained <strong>the</strong>re for a long time. A storm<br />
surge like that today would make The Shore Club look<br />
like a lighthouse sitting in <strong>the</strong> ocean.<br />
To <strong>the</strong> east <strong>of</strong> Providenciales, <strong>the</strong>re used to be a large<br />
island named Water Cay. After Hurricane Donna, we had<br />
Water Cay, Donna Cut, and Little Water Cay—Donna made<br />
two islands <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old Water Cay. When I first arrived in<br />
<strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> 1966, <strong>the</strong> water was still deep enough that<br />
we could pass through Donna Cut with a regular outboard<br />
engine, but Mo<strong>the</strong>r Nature had started <strong>the</strong> repair<br />
work. There were sandbars growing south from Water<br />
Cay and north from Little Water Cay. Sometime in <strong>the</strong><br />
1990s <strong>the</strong> two sandbars met and <strong>the</strong> two islands were<br />
joined toge<strong>the</strong>r again. Donna Cut had become Half Moon<br />
Bay. In 1966 most people named Little Water Cay “Done<br />
Bobbin.” In rough wea<strong>the</strong>r, once you enter <strong>the</strong> Leeward<br />
Channel <strong>the</strong> water gets calm and you are “done bobbin’.”<br />
I love those old names. I doubt <strong>the</strong>re is any o<strong>the</strong>r place in<br />
<strong>the</strong> world where you can sail past Done Bobbin and head<br />
for Heaving Down Rock. Fur<strong>the</strong>r to <strong>the</strong> north, Hurricane<br />
Donna also opened up <strong>the</strong> gap between Water Cay and<br />
Pine Cay, but it only took a few years before <strong>the</strong> two<br />
islands grew back toge<strong>the</strong>r again.<br />
I am fortunate to have in my possession a complete<br />
set <strong>of</strong> H.E. Sadler’s original books, Turks <strong>Islands</strong> Landfall,<br />
signed by <strong>the</strong> author. About Hurricane Donna Sadler says,<br />
“ . . . but <strong>the</strong>re was fortunately no loss <strong>of</strong> life. However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> main force <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm was directed against <strong>the</strong><br />
Caicos settlements, where approximately half <strong>the</strong> population<br />
was made homeless. Tidal waves (sic) submerged<br />
large sections <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> and a new mouth was<br />
carved out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> west coastline at Bottle Creek, while <strong>the</strong><br />
settlement <strong>of</strong> Whitby was isolated by a lake <strong>of</strong> seawater.”<br />
Sadler’s original books are out <strong>of</strong> print, but his daughter<br />
Marjorie has published an updated edition which also<br />
includes all <strong>of</strong> her fa<strong>the</strong>r’s original volumes. It’s available<br />
in bookstores and makes excellent historical reading.<br />
A different hurricane that also had a lot <strong>of</strong> impact on<br />
Providenciales was <strong>the</strong> Hurricane <strong>of</strong> 1945. Hurricanes<br />
were not given names in those days. I had heard different<br />
stories about how Gus Lightbourne and his crew were<br />
lost at sea for several days before <strong>the</strong>y eventually wound<br />
up in The Bahamas. After Gus retired and before his pass-<br />
ing in 2005 he spent a lot <strong>of</strong> time alone in his house in<br />
Wheeland. I stopped by and visited him a few times and<br />
we used to talk about <strong>the</strong> good old days. During one <strong>of</strong><br />
my visits, he told me about <strong>the</strong> 1945 Hurricane. I did not<br />
record our conversation, but I made some notes. Gus’<br />
recollection matches <strong>the</strong> information that can be found<br />
online, where <strong>the</strong> hurricane is named “Number 9.”<br />
This map <strong>of</strong> “Donna Cut” is drawn from 1969 photos. It shows in yellow<br />
how <strong>the</strong> sandbars had formed, but that you could still navigate<br />
through <strong>the</strong> cut.<br />
This February 1969 aerial photo shows that by 1969 Water Cay and<br />
Pine Cay were already joined toge<strong>the</strong>r again.<br />
TCI GOVERNMENT ARCHIVES<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 23
PHOTO COURTESY TANYA LIGHTBOURNE<br />
Gus was 24 years old at this time and he had a<br />
sloop that was built by James Dean. The James Dean<br />
that I have known for several years was his son, had<br />
<strong>the</strong> same name, and was also a boat builder. In addition<br />
to Gus <strong>the</strong>re were four more men from Blue Hills<br />
on board. Those were Livingston Swann,Thomas Palmer,<br />
his bro<strong>the</strong>r Joseph “Boy” Palmer, and Hovis Rigby. In <strong>the</strong><br />
evening <strong>of</strong> Thursday, September 13 <strong>the</strong>y were anchored<br />
at Frenchman Creek toge<strong>the</strong>r with several o<strong>the</strong>r sloops.<br />
Frenchman Creek is on <strong>the</strong> west coast <strong>of</strong> Providenciales,<br />
just north <strong>of</strong> West Harbor Bluff, which some people call<br />
“Split Rock.” The sloops were all planning to sail to Haiti<br />
in <strong>the</strong> morning. During <strong>the</strong> night <strong>the</strong> wind started to pick<br />
up. When Gus described how <strong>the</strong> condition got worse, he<br />
mentioned <strong>the</strong> word “brinestone” a few times. I assume<br />
that he meant that <strong>the</strong>y could smell <strong>the</strong> salt in <strong>the</strong> air<br />
as <strong>the</strong> storm was approaching. A couple <strong>of</strong> hours before<br />
daybreak on Friday, September 14, <strong>the</strong> bowsprit, where<br />
<strong>the</strong> anchor line was fastened, broke <strong>of</strong>f and <strong>the</strong>y started<br />
drifting. The track <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane shows that it crossed<br />
West Caicos, so <strong>the</strong>y were now very likely in <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />
eyewall <strong>of</strong> a strong Category 3 hurricane, which increased<br />
to a Category 4 <strong>the</strong> next day.<br />
In 1945, Gus Lightbourne would have been 24 years old. In this photo,<br />
he may be at least 10 years older.<br />
At this time <strong>the</strong>y made <strong>the</strong> decision that probably<br />
saved <strong>the</strong>ir lives. Gus did not tell me who came up with <strong>the</strong><br />
idea. He just said, “We decided to chop <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> mast and<br />
make a sea anchor.” Dragging <strong>the</strong> sail and <strong>the</strong> chopped<strong>of</strong>f<br />
mast behind <strong>the</strong>m helped stabilize <strong>the</strong> boat somewhat<br />
and kept <strong>the</strong>m from capsizing. About six weeks later,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y learned that all <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r sloops had capsized and<br />
everybody had drowned.<br />
There are a lot <strong>of</strong> coral heads in this area and it’s a<br />
miracle that <strong>the</strong>y reached deep water without <strong>the</strong> boat<br />
being broken up. Gus told me that <strong>the</strong>y “hit hard one<br />
time,” but <strong>the</strong> boat did not spring a leak. Later on during<br />
that day, Gus said that it suddenly got very calm. They<br />
were now, <strong>of</strong> course, in <strong>the</strong> eye <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm. After <strong>the</strong><br />
eye had passed on its westerly track <strong>the</strong>y got hit by <strong>the</strong><br />
backspin <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm and were thrown to <strong>the</strong> north. The<br />
nor<strong>the</strong>rly drift continued until Wednesday, September 19<br />
before <strong>the</strong> sea finally calmed down. Gus said that <strong>the</strong><br />
swells were still big, but <strong>the</strong> waves were not breaking<br />
any longer. Using <strong>the</strong> stump <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cut-<strong>of</strong>f mast <strong>the</strong>y<br />
managed to rig up a small sail. They knew that <strong>the</strong>y had<br />
drifted far to <strong>the</strong> north, so <strong>the</strong>y started sailing south in<br />
hope <strong>of</strong> finding land.<br />
The following day, Thursday, September 20, using<br />
part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sail <strong>the</strong>y managed to collect some rainwater<br />
to drink. It still took several days <strong>of</strong> sailing to <strong>the</strong><br />
south before <strong>the</strong>y finally spotted land. During <strong>the</strong> moonlit<br />
night <strong>of</strong> Sunday, September 23, <strong>the</strong>y could suddenly<br />
hear and see a reef breaking in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. Behind <strong>the</strong><br />
reef was <strong>the</strong> dark silhouette <strong>of</strong> an island that had some<br />
hills. Gus said that it almost looked like Providenciales,<br />
but <strong>the</strong>y soon realized that it must be Samana Cay in The<br />
Bahamas. They were now sailing to <strong>the</strong> west, staying way<br />
<strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> breakers on <strong>the</strong> reef. After clearing Samana Cay<br />
<strong>the</strong>y continued on a sou<strong>the</strong>rly course till <strong>the</strong>y reached<br />
Bird Rock, which is <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> northwest point <strong>of</strong> Crooked<br />
Island.<br />
After rounding Bird Rock <strong>the</strong>y sailed south along <strong>the</strong><br />
west coast <strong>of</strong> Crooked Island until <strong>the</strong>y made landfall on<br />
Long Cay, where it was a large settlement in those days.<br />
It was now Thursday, September 27—finally safe after 13<br />
days at sea.<br />
Gus said that <strong>the</strong> people on Long Cay took good care<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m. They spent <strong>the</strong> next few days recovering from<br />
<strong>the</strong> ordeal, <strong>the</strong>n started <strong>the</strong> repair work on <strong>the</strong> boat. It<br />
took quite a while to get <strong>the</strong> boat refitted and back in<br />
shape, so it was not until <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> October before <strong>the</strong>y<br />
reached back to Providenciales. Gus figured that <strong>the</strong>y had<br />
been away 46 or 47 days.<br />
24 www.timespub.tc
Bengt Soderqvist and his son Lars plotted a possible route that Gus Lightbourne and his crew took during <strong>the</strong>ir 13-day ordeal during and<br />
after <strong>the</strong> Hurricane <strong>of</strong> 1945. They explain, “We know where <strong>the</strong>y started and we know where <strong>the</strong>y ended up. We also know that <strong>the</strong>y were in<br />
<strong>the</strong> eye <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> storm in <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> day on September 14. We also know that it took <strong>the</strong>m four days to sail from Samana Cay to Long Cay.<br />
They had been sailing to <strong>the</strong> south for four days before <strong>the</strong>y reached Samana Cay, so we used <strong>the</strong> same distance to determine <strong>the</strong> fur<strong>the</strong>st<br />
point to <strong>the</strong> north that <strong>the</strong>y had drifted.”<br />
During <strong>the</strong>ir stay on Long Cay a yacht had stopped by<br />
on its way from Florida to <strong>the</strong> lower Caribbean. The yacht<br />
was planning on a fuel stop in Grand Turk and had promised<br />
to deliver <strong>the</strong> news about <strong>the</strong> survivors. The message<br />
was more like a rumor by <strong>the</strong> time it reached Blue Hills, so<br />
nobody knew for sure that <strong>the</strong> five <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m had survived<br />
until <strong>the</strong>y stepped ashore on <strong>the</strong> beach on that happy,<br />
memorable day in Blue Hills.<br />
The following quotes from H.E. Sadler’s book Turks<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> Landfall shows how devastating <strong>the</strong> 1945<br />
Hurricane was:<br />
er-related articles for <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. He also keeps<br />
current his Facebook page Turks and Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Wea<strong>the</strong>r Info with local forecasts and information.<br />
“All told, 79 people were drowned and 2 lost <strong>the</strong>ir lives<br />
on land. The loss <strong>of</strong> life was particularly severe in <strong>the</strong><br />
Blue Hills area, where a quarter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> male population<br />
between <strong>the</strong> ages <strong>of</strong> 15 and 69 were drowned while out<br />
fishing on <strong>the</strong> Caicos bank.”<br />
“There was scarcely a house which escaped damage.<br />
The number completely destroyed or damaged beyond<br />
repair were as follows:<br />
Grand Turk 152<br />
Cockburn Harbour 80<br />
Salt Cay 18<br />
The problem in Providenciales was particularly difficult,<br />
as many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> men were drowned.” a<br />
The author wishes to thank meteorologist Paul Wilkerson<br />
for reviewing <strong>the</strong> article. Paul occasionally writes weath-<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 25
JOHN A. ANDERSON—SHUTTERSTOCK
creature feature<br />
Opposite page: The first time <strong>the</strong> author encountered a swimming flounder, it reminded her <strong>of</strong> a magic carpet moving across <strong>the</strong> reef.<br />
Above: This pair <strong>of</strong> male and female flounders are likely initiating a mating dance.<br />
HEILO JETZKOWITZ—SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
Masters <strong>of</strong> Change<br />
Getting to know <strong>the</strong> Peacock flounder.<br />
By Kelly Currington<br />
I’m pretty confident in saying that most <strong>of</strong> us have seen “The Little Mermaid” movie and probably fell in<br />
love with Ariel’s adorable little sidekick, Flounder. Though not actually a flounder fish, he wiggled his<br />
way right into people’s hearts and became a household name, so much so, that people <strong>of</strong>ten associate<br />
<strong>the</strong> word “flounder” with this animated character.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 27
Though not as plump or as traditionally “cute” as<br />
Ariel’s flounder, <strong>the</strong> Peacock founder (Bothus Iunatus:<br />
Genius Bothidae) is a beautiful and unique creature with<br />
just as big a personality—you just have to take <strong>the</strong> time<br />
to get to know <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Whe<strong>the</strong>r snorkeling or diving in <strong>the</strong> stunning waters <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, you have undoubtedly passed<br />
right over this obscure fish and never knew it, as <strong>the</strong>y are<br />
masters <strong>of</strong> disguise. You think you see movement in <strong>the</strong><br />
sand out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> your eye, but when you turn<br />
to look, you see nothing more than sand—but <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
something <strong>the</strong>re, invisible in plain sight.<br />
tive <strong>of</strong> this species. Peacock flounders’ eyes are on <strong>the</strong><br />
left side, which is more brightly colored than <strong>the</strong> right.<br />
This eye migration is a crucial adaptation <strong>of</strong> nature<br />
that is necessary for <strong>the</strong>ir survival. Flounder lay buried<br />
in <strong>the</strong> sand, hiding from predators and hunting potential<br />
prey, so if <strong>the</strong>ir eyes were on opposite sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir head<br />
<strong>the</strong>y would have a limited range <strong>of</strong> vision, leaving <strong>the</strong>m<br />
vulnerable to predators and it would diminish <strong>the</strong>ir ability<br />
to hunt effectively.<br />
Their coloration is also different from larvae to adulthood,<br />
as <strong>the</strong> pigment cells (larval melanophores) which<br />
are located on both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> body in low abundance,<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
For <strong>the</strong> Peacock flounder, camouflage means survival, and <strong>the</strong>y have <strong>the</strong> ability to blend into <strong>the</strong>ir background in less than eight seconds.<br />
Flounder are distinctly identifiable by <strong>the</strong>ir flatness<br />
and shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir bodies—lending to <strong>the</strong>ir o<strong>the</strong>r known<br />
name <strong>of</strong> flatfish—and having both eyes on one side <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir bodies. Amazingly, <strong>the</strong>se pronounced physical characteristics<br />
are not present at birth, but instead develop<br />
over <strong>the</strong> course <strong>of</strong> three growth stages: egg, larval, and<br />
adulthood.<br />
They start life with one eye on each side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir head<br />
just like most fish, but <strong>the</strong>n something straight out <strong>of</strong> a<br />
science-fiction movie happens as <strong>the</strong>y mature from larvae<br />
to adulthood, through a process called metamorphosis.<br />
One eye literally migrates to <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> fish’s<br />
head through a slit formed during separation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dorsal<br />
fin from <strong>the</strong> cranium, resulting in both eyes being<br />
positioned on <strong>the</strong> same side, which renders <strong>the</strong> fish blind<br />
on <strong>the</strong> side <strong>the</strong> eye moved from. This method is distincdisappear<br />
from <strong>the</strong> blind side and are only present on<br />
<strong>the</strong> side with <strong>the</strong> eyes. O<strong>the</strong>r changes are also happening<br />
at this time—<strong>the</strong>ir body depth increases, <strong>the</strong>y become<br />
more rounded in shape, <strong>the</strong> swim bladder disappears,<br />
and teeth develop.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r interesting tidbit about <strong>the</strong>se flat fish is that<br />
<strong>the</strong> pelvic fin on <strong>the</strong> eye side is longer than <strong>the</strong> side with<br />
no eye. Luckily, this asymmetry does not hamper <strong>the</strong><br />
flounder’s mating game. In fact, a male will breed with<br />
up to eight spotted beauties in his territory year-round.<br />
The warming and cooling <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea is what most likely<br />
controls when spawning happens. The male and female<br />
flounders approach each o<strong>the</strong>r and touch snouts, <strong>the</strong>n<br />
<strong>the</strong> female will swim away. If <strong>the</strong> male follows, <strong>the</strong> mating<br />
dance begins. He approaches her from <strong>the</strong> left side<br />
and raises his pectoral fin high. She moves her pectoral<br />
28 www.timespub.tc
This close-up shows how a flounder’s eyes are both on <strong>the</strong> right side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> body, giving <strong>the</strong>m better vision as <strong>the</strong>y lay buried in sand.<br />
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
fin up and down, possibly signaling that she’s ready to<br />
mate. The male will slide underneath her and <strong>the</strong>y slowly<br />
rise toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> sea floor to a height <strong>of</strong> around two<br />
meters (approximately six and half feet), where <strong>the</strong> male<br />
releases his sperm at <strong>the</strong> same time <strong>the</strong> female releases<br />
her large clutch <strong>of</strong> eggs, creating a cloud <strong>of</strong> sperm and<br />
eggs in <strong>the</strong> water column. This process ensures that <strong>the</strong><br />
highest number <strong>of</strong> eggs will be fertilized in what is called<br />
“serial spawning.”<br />
This process only lasts only about 15 seconds and<br />
<strong>the</strong>n both fish return to <strong>the</strong> sea floor where <strong>the</strong> male will<br />
“check” <strong>the</strong> female to ensure her eggs were released. If he<br />
detects that <strong>the</strong>y were not, he will repeat <strong>the</strong> dance until<br />
he is satisfied <strong>the</strong> spawning was successful. Once he is<br />
satisfied, <strong>the</strong> male and female will return to <strong>the</strong> floor and<br />
swim away from each o<strong>the</strong>r quickly.<br />
The spawning is intentionally done in <strong>the</strong> water column<br />
so that <strong>the</strong> eggs will be carried by <strong>the</strong> currents.<br />
Fertilized eggs float near <strong>the</strong> surface as <strong>the</strong>y drift, but as<br />
<strong>the</strong> embryos develop, <strong>the</strong> eggs sink. Around fifteen days<br />
after <strong>the</strong> mating dance, <strong>the</strong> hatchlings emerge and float<br />
in <strong>the</strong> open ocean for <strong>the</strong> next four to six months, going<br />
where <strong>the</strong> current takes <strong>the</strong>m. This is when <strong>the</strong> magical<br />
eye migration happens.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 29
KELLY CURRINGTON<br />
This male Peacock flounder is raising his pectoral fin, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first steps in <strong>the</strong> mating dance.<br />
Don’t underestimate this serial lover, <strong>the</strong> male is also<br />
a formidable adversary and protects his territory and his<br />
ladies with an unexpected fierceness, running <strong>of</strong>f any<br />
o<strong>the</strong>r male attempting to play on his turf or woo one <strong>of</strong><br />
his paramours. These females are vital to <strong>the</strong> longevity <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> species as <strong>the</strong>y can lay two to three million eggs each<br />
year, increasing <strong>the</strong> odds <strong>of</strong> survival.<br />
Since camouflage directly contributes to a flounder’s<br />
survival, nature has equipped <strong>the</strong>m with <strong>the</strong> ability to<br />
blend into <strong>the</strong>ir background in less than eight seconds<br />
by changing color to match <strong>the</strong>ir immediate environment<br />
like sand and coral. This enables <strong>the</strong>m to flee from predators<br />
and hide in plain sight. In one study <strong>the</strong>y were even<br />
capable <strong>of</strong> matching a checkerboard pattern. (Can you<br />
imagine how much fun “hide & seek” would have been<br />
as kids if we could do this?) There is still a lot that isn’t<br />
understood about how <strong>the</strong>y control <strong>the</strong> change, but studies<br />
have found that it is directly linked to <strong>the</strong>ir vision<br />
and hormones and is controlled through neurotransmitters,<br />
which send signals that mediate changes in <strong>the</strong><br />
melanophores. Different colors result from different concentrations<br />
<strong>of</strong> pigment granules in different areas.<br />
Though flounder do rely heavily on ambushing <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
prey, <strong>the</strong>y are also active hunters and can swim steadily<br />
at about 0.37 miles per hour, hitting bursts <strong>of</strong> nearly 0.5<br />
miles per hour. That’s pretty quick for a little flat fish.<br />
Flounder prey mainly on benthic organisms (creatures<br />
that live on <strong>the</strong> sea floor) such as small crustaceans like<br />
shrimp and crabs; fish including anchovies, mullet, and<br />
menhaden; and invertebrates.<br />
30 www.timespub.tc
Flounder are mainly solitary creatures, coming<br />
toge<strong>the</strong>r to spawn. Individual male and female territories<br />
differ in size, with males having a larger territory<br />
and females having more sub-territories within <strong>the</strong> male’s<br />
boundaries. Males have a home turf ranging from 50 to<br />
360 m 2 , and one male’s territory does not overlap ano<strong>the</strong>r’s.<br />
The females’ turf ranges from 20 to 50 m 2 . Both<br />
genders spend <strong>the</strong>ir days and nights in different areas.<br />
Male flounder spend <strong>the</strong>ir nights closer to shore, while<br />
females seek deeper water; both return to <strong>the</strong>ir daytime<br />
territories early in <strong>the</strong> morning.<br />
Larger fish like snappers, sharks, and rays are predators<br />
<strong>of</strong> flounder. When a perceived threat presents itself,<br />
flounder dive into <strong>the</strong> sand and bury <strong>the</strong>mselves in <strong>the</strong><br />
substrate, leaving only <strong>the</strong>ir eyes exposed, or change<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir color to perfectly match coral <strong>the</strong>y may be on. Since<br />
each eye can move independently <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong>y have<br />
a clear view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world above <strong>the</strong>m and will only reappear<br />
when <strong>the</strong> threat has been eliminated. They can sense<br />
movement and vibrations in <strong>the</strong> water through <strong>the</strong>ir lateral<br />
line. This allows <strong>the</strong>m to “feel” <strong>the</strong> water and know if<br />
it’s safe to emerge.<br />
It’s estimated that <strong>the</strong>se fish can live up to ten years.<br />
They can be found in very shallow waters, literally skimming<br />
<strong>the</strong> shoreline, to as deep as 80 meters (262 feet),<br />
so whe<strong>the</strong>r snorkeling <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> beach or diving on <strong>the</strong><br />
reef, you are likely to enter flounder territory. This is one<br />
reason to be aware and careful where you walk in <strong>the</strong><br />
shallows and where your fins are when diving.<br />
Flounder move through <strong>the</strong> water with grace and elegance,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir bodies flowing over <strong>the</strong> floor with absolute<br />
precision. The first time I encountered a swimming flounder,<br />
it reminded me <strong>of</strong> a little magic carpet and that’s still<br />
how I describe <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
When you are lucky enough to be immersed in <strong>the</strong><br />
sea, regardless <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> depth, slow down and soak it all in.<br />
Sharpen your awareness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> creatures that call it home<br />
and you will open a world seen through <strong>the</strong> eyes <strong>of</strong> Ariel.<br />
Protect and preserve this wonderland! a<br />
Protecting, Preserving, and<br />
Restoring <strong>the</strong> Coral Reefs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
Come visit our Coral Growing Facility<br />
and get your TCRF merchandise!<br />
Located at South Bank Marina.<br />
We are open 1-5pm<br />
Monday - Friday<br />
Rashguards, Stickers, BCD tags and more!<br />
All proceeds go to our environmental<br />
projects in TCI.<br />
Author Kelly Currington says, “I always turn to <strong>the</strong> sea<br />
when my soul needs calming. Being immersed in <strong>the</strong><br />
weightlessness <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> underwater world and absorbing<br />
all <strong>the</strong> energy that it holds is a healing process for me.<br />
Learning as much as I can about <strong>the</strong> creatures I encounter<br />
connects me to <strong>the</strong> sea and brings a level <strong>of</strong> respect<br />
and an appreciation for <strong>the</strong>m that drives me to be a better<br />
version <strong>of</strong> myself. I hope sharing what I learn will do<br />
<strong>the</strong> same for o<strong>the</strong>rs.”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 31
green pages<br />
Newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong> Environment & Coastal Resources<br />
Head <strong>of</strong>fice: Church Folly, Grand Turk, tel 649 946 2801 • fax 649 946 1895<br />
• Astwood Street, South Caicos, tel 649 946 3306 • fax 946 3710<br />
• National Environmental Centre, Lower Bight Road, Providenciales<br />
Parks Division, tel 649 941 5122 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
Fisheries Division, tel 649 946 4017 • fax 649 946 4793<br />
email environment@gov.tc or dema.tci@gmail.com • web https://www.gov.tc/decr/<br />
KORT ALEXANDER<br />
This close-up details a colony <strong>of</strong> rose coral being grown in <strong>the</strong> coral lab at <strong>the</strong> School for Field Studies in South Caicos.<br />
One Fragment at a Time<br />
Restoring TCI reefs.<br />
By Kort Alexander and Kara Rumage,<br />
The School for Field Studies Center for Marine Resource Studies, South Caicos<br />
We sit on <strong>the</strong> siderails <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat in anticipation, hands holding our masks and regulators in place. The<br />
captain counts down from three and we lean back until our tanks hit <strong>the</strong> water. We are instantly transported<br />
to ano<strong>the</strong>r world. Schools <strong>of</strong> yellow and blue grunts congregate warily under a nearby ledge while<br />
silvery barracuda with gaping mouths full <strong>of</strong> sharp teeth glide by on <strong>the</strong>ir morning prowl. An endless<br />
array <strong>of</strong> colors flash by as numerous fishes—angelfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, jacks, parrotfish, tangs,<br />
snappers, just to name a few—go about <strong>the</strong>ir daily lives.<br />
32 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
A large colony <strong>of</strong> elkhorn coral (Acropora palmata) grows on <strong>the</strong> reef near South Caicos.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> all this activity are corals and <strong>the</strong> that form giant colonies and build hard skeletons <strong>of</strong> calcium<br />
carbonate which form <strong>the</strong> foundations <strong>of</strong> reefs in<br />
reefs <strong>the</strong>y create. A thick trunk <strong>of</strong> deep orange elkhorn<br />
coral extends from <strong>the</strong> hard bottom towards <strong>the</strong> surface, tropical seas worldwide.<br />
ga<strong>the</strong>ring sunlight with branches that resemble open Corals not only provide shelter for fish and structure<br />
for habitat, but also serve as <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> energy<br />
hands (hence elkhorn’s scientific name, Acropora palmata).<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r species, including brain corals and boulder for <strong>the</strong> entire ecosystem. Using tiny tentacles, coral<br />
star corals, dot <strong>the</strong> reef with a dazzling variety <strong>of</strong> textures polyps ensnare and feed on plankton floating through <strong>the</strong><br />
and patterns.<br />
water, but <strong>the</strong>y get most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir energy from microscopic<br />
algae called zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae that live inside <strong>the</strong>ir cells. The<br />
The power <strong>of</strong> polyps<br />
zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae use sunlight to make food through photosyn<strong>the</strong>sis<br />
and share <strong>the</strong> energy that <strong>the</strong>y produce with<br />
Although <strong>the</strong>y are immobile and might seem more like<br />
plants, corals are actually animals, most closely related <strong>the</strong> coral polyp in exchange for shelter. This energy <strong>the</strong>n<br />
to jellyfish and anemones. They are made <strong>of</strong> thousands gets passed up <strong>the</strong> food web through animals that feed<br />
<strong>of</strong> tiny individuals called polyps, mere millimeters in size, on coral, forming <strong>the</strong> basis <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most biodiverse<br />
HEIDI HERTLER<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 33
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
HEIDI HERTLER<br />
ecosystems on <strong>the</strong> planet.<br />
Coral reefs, including those in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos, provide economic<br />
value through coastal protection,<br />
fisheries, and tourism. Reefs absorb<br />
some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> impact <strong>of</strong> ocean waves,<br />
protecting <strong>the</strong> coastline from being<br />
damaged and eroded, especially<br />
during intense storms and hurricanes.<br />
Coral reefs form protective<br />
barriers that enclose lagoons, providing<br />
nursery habitats and feeding<br />
grounds for fish and o<strong>the</strong>r organisms<br />
that serve as a primary source <strong>of</strong> protein<br />
in many tropical countries. Many<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se countries also have tour-<br />
From top: School for Field Studies research assistant Miranda Williams checks on coral fragments,<br />
with bleached Orbicella annularis coral nearby. Ocean temperatures reached record<br />
heights in 2023, causing widespread coral bleaching.<br />
School for Field Studies students Adriana Yeo and Claudia Buckenmeyer maintain coral nursery<br />
structures and promote coral growth by removing algae.<br />
ism-based economies, which rely on<br />
coral reefs to draw visitors. Estimates<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total economic value <strong>of</strong> coral<br />
reefs worldwide vary but are in <strong>the</strong><br />
range <strong>of</strong> tens <strong>of</strong> billions <strong>of</strong> dollars<br />
every year.<br />
Corals in crisis<br />
Sadly, coral reefs are now facing several<br />
threats to <strong>the</strong>ir existence. As<br />
global temperatures rise, marine heat<br />
waves have become more frequent<br />
and severe. In <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> 2023,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caribbean experienced record<br />
ocean temperatures, with a buoy <strong>of</strong>f<br />
<strong>the</strong> Florida coast reading a stunning<br />
temperature <strong>of</strong> 101.1°F (38.39°C)<br />
in July. As a result, reefs across <strong>the</strong><br />
region, including here in <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos, experienced a mass bleaching<br />
event. Bleaching occurs when corals<br />
become heat-stressed and expel <strong>the</strong><br />
zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae that live inside <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
tissues. Without <strong>the</strong>ir zooxan<strong>the</strong>llae,<br />
corals lose <strong>the</strong>ir vibrant coloring<br />
and main source <strong>of</strong> energy. Bleached<br />
corals are likely to die unless water<br />
temperatures drop immediately.<br />
The threat <strong>of</strong> bleaching is coinciding<br />
with existing coral stressors like<br />
overfishing, disease, and pollution.<br />
In 2008, elkhorn and staghorn corals<br />
around South Caicos were ravaged<br />
by white band disease, and in 2019<br />
stony corals in TCI were devastated<br />
by stony coral tissue loss disease<br />
(SCLTD), resulting in a 62% loss <strong>of</strong><br />
coral coverage on reefs around South<br />
Caicos. While <strong>the</strong>se diseases are no<br />
longer prevalent in TCI, <strong>the</strong>y have<br />
exacerbated <strong>the</strong> threat now posed by<br />
bleaching. Unless <strong>the</strong>se challenges<br />
are addressed, many corals could<br />
soon be driven to extinction, spelling<br />
disaster for <strong>the</strong> communities that<br />
depend on <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
34 www.timespub.tc
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
Reef revival<br />
Luckily, <strong>the</strong>re are steps we can take to help <strong>the</strong> corals.<br />
To restore and build more resilient reefs, coral nurseries<br />
have been established in recent years on reefs around<br />
<strong>the</strong> world. Small pieces <strong>of</strong> coral colonies are taken from<br />
a healthy reef and attached to underwater nursery structures,<br />
which provide more ideal conditions for corals to<br />
grow. Once <strong>the</strong>se coral fragments reach a certain size,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y can be returned to <strong>the</strong> reef in a process called outplanting.<br />
Outplanted fragments <strong>the</strong>n grow into full-size<br />
colonies <strong>the</strong>mselves, providing more habitat for fish and<br />
improving <strong>the</strong> overall health <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reef.<br />
In 2023, <strong>the</strong> South Caicos Coral Reef Consortium<br />
(SCCRC) was established as a collaboration among stakeholders—<strong>the</strong><br />
School for Field Studies (SFS), Salterra Resort<br />
and Spa, <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos Reef Fund, and The Reef<br />
Institute—with <strong>the</strong> common goal <strong>of</strong> supporting South<br />
Caicos reef recovery. To accomplish this goal, SFS has<br />
led <strong>the</strong> construction and implementation <strong>of</strong> several coral<br />
nurseries. In <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 2023, coral nursery structures<br />
were installed at four sites (at two different depth categories)<br />
around South Caicos, which were selected based<br />
on accessibility and location, bottom type, and available<br />
data. Five different structure types were tested to determine<br />
which was <strong>the</strong> most cost-effective. A total <strong>of</strong> 300<br />
fragments <strong>of</strong> two coral species—elkhorn and staghorn—<br />
were attached to <strong>the</strong> structures. The five types <strong>of</strong> nursery<br />
structures include a rope and fishing longline, a PVC tree,<br />
a PVC rope square, a PVC line square, and cement blocks<br />
with PVC pipes.<br />
Beginning in <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>of</strong> 2023, SFS students and staff<br />
have regularly conducted maintenance dives to remove<br />
algae from <strong>the</strong> nursery structures and monitor coral<br />
health. Each coral fragment is photographed to determine<br />
its growth rate and health. SFS students have found that<br />
nursery structure type doesn’t seem to impact growth<br />
rate, but that corals grow faster at <strong>the</strong> shallow nursery<br />
sites (10 m), possibly<br />
because shallower corals have greater access to sunlight<br />
for photosyn<strong>the</strong>sis.<br />
Once <strong>the</strong> coral fragments have grown to a viable size,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y will be outplanted onto a nearby reef. During <strong>the</strong><br />
fall, SFS students investigated five potential outplanting<br />
sites, each <strong>of</strong> which was assessed to determine <strong>the</strong> size<br />
and number <strong>of</strong> resident fish and <strong>the</strong> diversity <strong>of</strong> substrate<br />
for coral to grow on. Shark Alley, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> five sites,<br />
From top: A partially bleached fragment <strong>of</strong> staghorn coral hangs from<br />
a nursery structure.<br />
School for Field Studies student Kara Rumage maintains coral fragments<br />
on a PVC tree structure.<br />
KORT ALEXANDER<br />
HEIDI HERTLER<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 35
green pages newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> department <strong>of</strong> environment & coastal resources<br />
KORT ALEXANDER<br />
The Reef Institute and School for Field Studies staff stand in <strong>the</strong> newly built coral lab at SFS, where corals will be grown for future outplanting<br />
onto reefs around South Caicos. From left to right: John Caleb Fix, Heidi Hertler, Leneita Fix, Miranda Williams, and Mike Tavares.<br />
has <strong>the</strong> most herbivores such as parrotfish. These fish<br />
play a crucial role on coral reefs by eating algae, which<br />
compete with coral for space on <strong>the</strong> reef. However, relative<br />
to o<strong>the</strong>r sites, Shark Alley also had more sand and<br />
rubble, which are unstable and hard for coral to grow<br />
on, making it less suitable for outplanting. This example<br />
demonstrates <strong>the</strong> many <strong>of</strong>ten-contradictory factors that<br />
go into selecting sites for outplanting.<br />
In addition to <strong>the</strong> coral nurseries, o<strong>the</strong>r initiatives are<br />
also underway. With <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> The Reef Institute,<br />
SFS has designed and constructed a land-based coral laboratory,<br />
which was finished in late fall 2023. During <strong>the</strong><br />
spring <strong>of</strong> <strong>2024</strong>, <strong>the</strong> lab was populated with 54 colonies<br />
representing 13 species <strong>of</strong> coral, including mustard hill,<br />
finger, rose, and flower corals collected from local dive<br />
and snorkel sites. The collected colonies were chosen<br />
because <strong>the</strong>y were damaged or already detached from <strong>the</strong><br />
reef. The lab environment helps mitigate external stressors<br />
and gives <strong>the</strong> corals better conditions in which to<br />
grow. Lab corals are also being fragmented into smaller<br />
pieces, which has been shown to dramatically increase<br />
growth rates. Once healthy, <strong>the</strong>se lab-grown corals will<br />
be moved to <strong>the</strong> underwater nurseries and eventually outplanted,<br />
bolstering local reefs for years to come.<br />
Back on <strong>the</strong> reef, we swim through <strong>the</strong> blue water<br />
towards one <strong>of</strong> our nurseries. There, coral fragments<br />
hang from trees <strong>of</strong> PVC and lengths <strong>of</strong> fishing line strung<br />
between thicker ropes. Many are partially or fully bleached<br />
after suffering a brutally hot summer, but against all odds<br />
some still have a vibrant apricot color. In <strong>the</strong>se tiny fragments,<br />
swinging gently with <strong>the</strong> ocean swell, lies <strong>the</strong> hope<br />
<strong>of</strong> a reef restored to its full potential, bursting with life<br />
and able to support a robust economy centered around<br />
fisheries and tourism. All it takes to make this vision a<br />
reality is some PVC pipe, a scrub pad, and a little elbow<br />
grease. a<br />
The School for Field Studies (SFS) is a US-based, academic<br />
institution that provides multidisciplinary, field-based<br />
environmental study abroad opportunities to undergraduate<br />
university students. Long term data collection by<br />
staff and students is a crucial element <strong>of</strong> observing and<br />
understanding climate impacts, beneficial to stakeholders<br />
and essential to policy makers.<br />
To learn more about <strong>the</strong> SFS TCI program, visit www.<br />
fieldstudies.org/tci. For detailed article references, contact<br />
Director Heidi Hertler on South Caicos at hhertler@<br />
fieldstudies.org.<br />
36 www.timespub.tc
38 www.timespub.tc
feature<br />
These “scenes from South” display <strong>the</strong> pristine seas surrounding <strong>the</strong> island and <strong>the</strong> fishermen and boaters who daily ply <strong>the</strong> waters.<br />
Opposite page: The “Caicos Chronicles” series by Middle Caicos artist Dwight Outten is hugely popular. He is currently working on a similar<br />
series for Salt Cay.<br />
Above: The TDB Fine Arts Gallery is <strong>the</strong> TCI’s newest art gallery, operated by <strong>the</strong> country’s longest established art promoter Titus de Boer.<br />
When Art is Joy<br />
The making <strong>of</strong> a fine arts gallery—Grand Turk style.<br />
Story & Photos By Titus de Boer<br />
When <strong>the</strong> unexpected meets artistry, magic happens. Discover how a dreary afternoon in Germany led to<br />
<strong>the</strong> birth <strong>of</strong> a fine arts gallery in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, weaving a tale <strong>of</strong> resilience, creativity, and a<br />
dash <strong>of</strong> serendipity. This is <strong>the</strong> captivating and vibrant journey <strong>of</strong> TDB Fine Arts, where <strong>the</strong> echoes <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
past meet <strong>the</strong> promise <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> future, and every artwork tells a story as colourful as <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 39
The beginnings—Bamboo Gallery<br />
On a grey, cold, and rainy afternoon in January 1990, I<br />
found myself amidst <strong>the</strong> familiar landscapes <strong>of</strong> Hamburg,<br />
Germany—my birth city. Only a month prior, I had relocated<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. I had found a place<br />
to live on Providenciales, paid a deposit on a retail space<br />
for my art gallery, and navigated <strong>the</strong> labyrinth <strong>of</strong> bureaucracy<br />
inherent in an overseas move—establishing a bank<br />
account and applying for a work permit and business<br />
license, among o<strong>the</strong>r things. This brief return to Germany<br />
was to tie up loose ends, a seemingly simple task. Yet,<br />
in those days, <strong>the</strong> complexities <strong>of</strong> German bureaucracy<br />
made those <strong>of</strong> TCI appear a walk in <strong>the</strong> park. Ironically,<br />
today both have evolved into equally convoluted systems.<br />
Anyway, this was it. I was leaving Germany for good, after<br />
11 years, heading back to <strong>the</strong> region <strong>of</strong> my childhood.<br />
On that dreary afternoon, when <strong>the</strong> phone pierced<br />
<strong>the</strong> silence it brought long-distance news from <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. “Titus,” came <strong>the</strong> voice <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
local real estate agent, who, in a twist <strong>of</strong> fate, is now<br />
<strong>the</strong> Honourable Premier, “I regret to inform you that your<br />
business license application has been denied. But don’t<br />
worry, we’ll resolve this upon your return.” His words lingered<br />
as I hung up. A few weeks later, I found myself<br />
The art shows hosted by <strong>the</strong> Bamboo Gallery in <strong>the</strong> 1990s became<br />
synonymous with “must-attend,” showcasing local and quality Haitian<br />
art. Here, Titus de Boer stands with <strong>the</strong> late Phillip Outten, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
local artists <strong>of</strong>ten showcased at <strong>the</strong> gallery.<br />
DENISE DE BOER<br />
Former Bamboo Gallery artists (from left) Patricia Moore, Dwight Outten, and Pamela Leach, with art promoter Titus de Boer at a recent reunion<br />
lunch in Providenciales.<br />
40 www.timespub.tc
sitting in <strong>the</strong> business licensing <strong>of</strong>fice in Providenciales.<br />
“So, it’s a retail license you were denied?” a friendly and<br />
sympa<strong>the</strong>tic <strong>of</strong>ficial questioned. “What exactly is your<br />
intended business?” After I clarified that a fine arts gallery<br />
wasn’t akin to a typical retail shop, her gaze lifted, a<br />
smile curled, and she declared, “Alright, let’s categorise<br />
this one as miscellaneous.”<br />
With my “miscellaneous” business license and work<br />
permit in hand, <strong>the</strong> Bamboo Gallery threw open its<br />
doors in April 1990 at The Market Place. The ensuing<br />
14 years were a symphony <strong>of</strong> bliss. The art business is<br />
my confessed love. It intertwined my days with not only<br />
intriguing, imaginative souls—<strong>the</strong> artists—but also with<br />
clients whose penchant for art made <strong>the</strong>m a delight<br />
to interact with. The art shows hosted by <strong>the</strong> Bamboo<br />
Gallery in <strong>the</strong> 1990s became synonymous with “must-attend,”<br />
showcasing local and quality Haitian art, and as<br />
time unfurled, pieces from as far as Africa and South<br />
America were included.<br />
Ultimately, my persistent refusal to acknowledge <strong>the</strong><br />
inevitable shift <strong>of</strong> business activity to <strong>the</strong> Grace Bay area<br />
led to <strong>the</strong> downfall <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Bamboo Gallery. By <strong>the</strong> time I<br />
recognised this transition, numerous o<strong>the</strong>r galleries had<br />
emerged, dominating <strong>the</strong> art scene with <strong>the</strong>ir “Grace Bay<br />
Beachscapes.” A change was imperative and so it was<br />
time to relinquish <strong>the</strong> Caicos and venture towards <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
A new chapter—TDB Fine Arts<br />
In <strong>the</strong> spring <strong>of</strong> 2021, during a conversation with a<br />
friend in <strong>the</strong> nation’s capital <strong>the</strong> idea was casually suggested:<br />
“Why not open an art gallery on Grand Turk?” We<br />
were exchanging stories about how <strong>the</strong> pandemic had<br />
impacted our businesses; for me, <strong>the</strong> 2020 shutdown had<br />
been nothing short <strong>of</strong> devastating. It was time for a fresh<br />
start and <strong>the</strong> notion <strong>of</strong> re-entering <strong>the</strong> art business had<br />
been lingering in my mind. Between 2021 and 2023, I<br />
embarked on a journey to turn this idea into reality. I<br />
forged relationships with new artists, re-established connections<br />
with old ones, reached out to collectors and art<br />
publishers, and scouted for a location for <strong>the</strong> new gallery.<br />
By <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> 2023, I thought that <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />
space for a gallery had been found, a spacious gallery<br />
that could effortlessly host anywhere between 50 to 80<br />
masterpieces at any given moment. The location, while<br />
not a masterpiece itself, appeared sufficiently promising<br />
and so I set my sights on an opening slated for November<br />
1, 2023.<br />
But as <strong>the</strong> legendary John Lennon once quipped, “Life<br />
Dwight Outten and Titus de Boer share a light moment critiquing <strong>the</strong><br />
artist’s “Caicos Chronicles” series.<br />
is what happens while you are busy making o<strong>the</strong>r plans.”<br />
And indeed, life had quite <strong>the</strong> comedic plot twist in store<br />
for our Grand Turk gallery. Just when we were ready to<br />
unveil our creation, life chortled and threw us a googly<br />
(a curveball for non-cricketers) that would make any seasoned<br />
bowler jealous. Not only had <strong>the</strong> lease conditions<br />
for our chosen venue gone from “fair” to “suboptimal,”<br />
but it turned out that our unit was as mouldy as a fine<br />
wedge <strong>of</strong> Roquefort cheese. A quick reality check forced<br />
us into an artful escape act—we needed a new location,<br />
and we needed it yesterday.<br />
When life throws you a googly, staying optimistic<br />
becomes a challenge. The simple fact was that we found<br />
ourselves in a situation where we had a collection <strong>of</strong><br />
paintings ready to go on walls but no gallery space to call<br />
our own. To provide context to those unfamiliar with <strong>the</strong><br />
nation’s capital, retail space isn’t exactly abundant here,<br />
a fact confirmed by calls to several friends and associates.<br />
Then one morning as I engaged in a casual conversation<br />
with an acquaintance in Grand Turk, he turned to me<br />
and suggested, “Why don’t you consider moving into <strong>the</strong><br />
museum? We have a small space in <strong>the</strong>re that could be<br />
perfect for showcasing art—though I must warn you it is<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 41
quite petite.” Later that day<br />
when we viewed <strong>the</strong> space,<br />
I finally understood what<br />
he meant and I couldn’t<br />
help but be puzzled by his<br />
suggestion. “Quite petite?<br />
Try minuscule,” I thought<br />
to myself as I stood in<br />
<strong>the</strong> 116-square-foot former<br />
foyer <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> splendid<br />
and historically significant<br />
“Guinep House,” which<br />
serves as <strong>the</strong> home <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks & Caicos National<br />
Museum.<br />
It is said that “things<br />
happen for a reason” and<br />
it was time to look at all <strong>the</strong> positives <strong>of</strong> this move—<br />
and <strong>the</strong>re were several. For starters, <strong>the</strong> location and<br />
<strong>the</strong> address, Turks & Caicos National Museum, are hard<br />
to beat, parking is ample, and your footfall is guaranteed.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> weeks rolled by, with freshly painted walls<br />
and carefully selected artwork, I grew increasingly convinced<br />
that perhaps this was a hidden blessing. When an<br />
astonishing 45 works <strong>of</strong> art graced <strong>the</strong> walls, it became<br />
abundantly clear that it was indeed a stroke <strong>of</strong> good fortune<br />
in disguise.<br />
As Picasso wisely stated, “O<strong>the</strong>rs have seen what is<br />
and asked why. I have seen what could be and asked why<br />
not.” On December 4, 2023, as dozens <strong>of</strong> visitors enthusiastically<br />
appreciated local art and photography adorning<br />
<strong>the</strong> walls <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk’s newest and only fine arts gallery,<br />
I knew that a new and exciting chapter in Turks &<br />
Caicos art history had begun.<br />
Here’s to <strong>the</strong> Renaissance!—<br />
The artistic marvel <strong>of</strong> “Made in <strong>the</strong> TCI”<br />
I’ll be perfectly honest, when <strong>the</strong> TDB Fine Arts Gallery<br />
opened within <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum on<br />
that memorable day in December 2023, I was uncertain<br />
about what to expect. While many established artists<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Bamboo Gallery such as Dwight Outten, Benada<br />
Oduma, Pamela Leach, and Patricia Moore had joined TDB<br />
Fine Arts, along with new talents like Grand Turk’s Aysha<br />
At left (from top): The TDB Fine Arts Gallery has fast become a focal<br />
point for residents and visitors who like to come in and talk art and<br />
culture, surrounded by some great art, “Made in <strong>the</strong> TCI.”<br />
Grand Turk artist Aysha Stephen creates one <strong>of</strong> her iconic “Cool<br />
Donkeys” in <strong>the</strong> TCI National Museum’s botanical garden.<br />
“Team TDB Fine Arts” pose outside <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
National Museum, <strong>the</strong> gallery’s new home.<br />
42 www.timespub.tc
Stephen, I remained uncertain about <strong>the</strong> reception from<br />
<strong>the</strong> buying public.<br />
Grand Turk differs significantly from Provo, where<br />
tourists with substantial spending power abound. In contrast,<br />
Grand Turk attracts a different type <strong>of</strong> tourist, with<br />
fewer extravagant spenders, and much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> local business<br />
relies on cruise ship visitors. I questioned whe<strong>the</strong>r<br />
<strong>the</strong>y would purchase local art from a gallery proudly<br />
showcasing “Made in <strong>the</strong> TCI.” Now, after over half a year,<br />
I can confidently affirm that <strong>the</strong>y indeed do.<br />
Just as it was years ago in April 1990 when a gallery<br />
first opened its doors in Providenciales, an island<br />
with just 4,000 residents and fewer than 50,000 annual<br />
tourists at <strong>the</strong> time, TDB Fine Arts isn’t just an art vendor—it’s<br />
a storyteller. It shares <strong>the</strong> narrative <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI art<br />
scene—from a former supermarket shelf-stacker turned<br />
local scene painter, to Grand Turk’s artistic sensation<br />
Aysha Stephen, renowned for her iconic “Cool Donkeys”<br />
capturing hearts worldwide, and even a small community<br />
<strong>of</strong> artists in Haiti who have finally found a dependable<br />
outlet for <strong>the</strong>ir artistry. This is <strong>the</strong> vibrant tale <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> TCI<br />
art scene. The term “renaissance” denotes a revival or<br />
renewed interest in something. Grand Turk, with its newest<br />
and now sole art gallery, is making such a pr<strong>of</strong>ound<br />
impact in <strong>the</strong> regional art world that it might just be apt<br />
to declare, “Here’s to <strong>the</strong> Renaissance!” a<br />
To learn more, contact Titus at (649) 247-1108, email<br />
tdbtci@aol.com, or visit www.facebook.com/tdbfinearts.<br />
At right (from top): A visibly delighted art collector on Grand Turk, Mr.<br />
Derek Been, holds his latest acquisition, a painting by Dwight Outten.<br />
Grand Turk artist Aysha Stephen poses with tourists and her latest<br />
“Cool Donkey” creation.<br />
Titus de Boer and artist Aysha Stephen welcome students <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ona<br />
Glinton Primary School following TDB Fine Arts’ launch <strong>of</strong> its nationwide<br />
art lecture tour.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 43
SHUTTERSTOCK
feature<br />
Above: Artist Richard McGhie painted this watercolor image to depict <strong>the</strong> dolphins directing Captain Kell Talbot, Anthony Forbes, and Jervis<br />
Simmons on <strong>the</strong> boat I Comin’ Now to find <strong>the</strong> victims <strong>of</strong> a plane crash in <strong>the</strong> seas <strong>of</strong>f Grand Turk.<br />
Opposite page: After <strong>the</strong> miraculous rescue, a pod <strong>of</strong> dolphins ga<strong>the</strong>red around <strong>the</strong> boat to seemingly celebrate with <strong>the</strong> survivors.<br />
RICHARD MCGHIE<br />
11:00 AM / Grand Turk<br />
Heroic Rescue at Sea<br />
Dolphins lead boat to plane crash survivors.<br />
By Ben Stubenberg<br />
Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> morning hours <strong>of</strong> January 3, 2023 had slipped away with quiet routine at <strong>the</strong> JAGS McCartney<br />
International Airport when Air Traffic Controller (ATC) Danial Thompson arrived for his shift. As he took<br />
<strong>the</strong> hand-<strong>of</strong>f from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r ATC who was about to go on lunch break, <strong>the</strong> tower phone rang. It was Provo<br />
Approach ATC calling to say that a twin-engine Cessna 340 with four souls heading from St. Kitts to Provo<br />
reported being low on fuel and might have to make an emergency landing in Grand Turk. Danial quickly<br />
informed <strong>the</strong> airport firefighters to prepare.<br />
11:18 AM<br />
A scratchy, static-filled voice cut into <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk air frequency 118.6. “This is Cessna November 824<br />
Bravo Charlie. We cannot make it.” Danial radioed back, “What is your position?”<br />
“19 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk. Going down in <strong>the</strong> water! Ditching! Going down in <strong>the</strong> water.”<br />
Then silence.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 45
ELLINGTON OSBORNE<br />
The response<br />
This was Danial’s first emergency. He had earned his certification<br />
to manage <strong>the</strong> tower unsupervised less than two<br />
months earlier. But he knew what to do and switched to<br />
<strong>the</strong> emergency frequency 121.5 in an attempt to reach <strong>the</strong><br />
Cessna or any o<strong>the</strong>r aircraft in <strong>the</strong> air in hopes <strong>the</strong>y might<br />
get a better signal. One pilot did respond and briefly<br />
made contact to confirm <strong>the</strong> Cessna was in trouble and<br />
ditching. When Danial asked<br />
her to update, she radioed<br />
back, “No Joy,” meaning “No<br />
Contact.” Danial went through<br />
<strong>the</strong> emergency notification procedures<br />
beginning with calling<br />
back Provo Approach and 911<br />
to report a downed aircraft and<br />
<strong>the</strong> approximate location.<br />
Danial’s supervisor, Captain<br />
Irvin “Porky” Robinson and<br />
<strong>the</strong> tower technician Gordon<br />
“Chef-G” Wilson had heard<br />
<strong>the</strong> emergency blare over<br />
<strong>the</strong> airport intercom alerting<br />
<strong>the</strong> fire trucks. They radioed<br />
back and rushed to <strong>the</strong> tower.<br />
Danial told <strong>the</strong>m that <strong>the</strong> pilot<br />
reported he was ditching 19<br />
miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk. Captain Irvin, also a commercial<br />
pilot, and Gordon went to <strong>the</strong> map on <strong>the</strong> wall<br />
and measured out <strong>the</strong> distance from <strong>the</strong> airport to determine<br />
<strong>the</strong> approximate location. They didn’t have much<br />
to go on but used <strong>the</strong>ir best judgment to estimate <strong>the</strong><br />
plane’s position 14 nautical miles east-nor<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Salt<br />
Cay. Irvin and Gordon <strong>the</strong>n marked <strong>the</strong> spot with an X.<br />
Meanwhile, <strong>the</strong> TCI emergency response system went<br />
into effect with fur<strong>the</strong>r notifications to <strong>the</strong> Department <strong>of</strong><br />
Disaster Management and Emergencies (DDME), Ministry<br />
<strong>of</strong> Health, <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk Hospital, <strong>the</strong> ambulance service,<br />
<strong>the</strong> Ministry <strong>of</strong> Tourism, <strong>the</strong> TCI Regiment, and <strong>the</strong><br />
Red Cross. Director <strong>of</strong> Health Disaster, Education and<br />
Training Charlene Higgs took charge <strong>of</strong> coordinating <strong>the</strong><br />
government groups.<br />
The plane crash <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cessna 340 on January 3, 2023 was first reported to <strong>the</strong> tower at JAGS<br />
McCartney International Airport in Grand Turk around 11 AM.<br />
This is <strong>the</strong> Cessna 340 that went down <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk with four souls aboard.<br />
An informal response from a network <strong>of</strong> boaters called<br />
<strong>the</strong> Grand Turk Search and Rescue Operation also kicked<br />
in. Co-founded by Ed Forbes and Hartley “Bonefish” Squire<br />
four years ago, <strong>the</strong> association had responded to distress<br />
calls from hundreds <strong>of</strong> boaters in <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong>f Grand<br />
Turk and Salt Cay and made a number <strong>of</strong> rescues. On<br />
this day, both Ed and Hartley canceled all plans to focus<br />
on mobilizing <strong>the</strong>ir band <strong>of</strong><br />
mariners to assist with <strong>the</strong><br />
search.<br />
At <strong>the</strong> same time, <strong>the</strong><br />
TCI Marine Police, whose<br />
boats in Provo were too<br />
far from Grand Turk to be<br />
effective, contacted <strong>the</strong><br />
US Coast Guard Rescue<br />
Coordination Center in<br />
Miami to request assistance.<br />
The US Coast Guard<br />
forwarded <strong>the</strong> request to<br />
<strong>the</strong> liaison <strong>of</strong>fice in <strong>the</strong><br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
46 www.timespub.tc
Bahamas that diverted two<br />
US Coast Guard aircraft<br />
in <strong>the</strong> air—a twin-engine<br />
turboprop HC-144 Ocean<br />
Sentry and a Sikorsky<br />
MH-60 Jayhawk helicopter—to<br />
<strong>the</strong> crash location.<br />
A US Customs and Border<br />
Patrol (CBP) Bell 212 helicopter<br />
also joined in.<br />
12:00 NOON<br />
As <strong>the</strong> emergency<br />
response was set in<br />
motion, boat captain<br />
Kellison “Kell” Talbot,<br />
owner <strong>of</strong> Deep Blue<br />
Charters, was calmly preparing<br />
his 31-foot boat, I<br />
Comin’ Now, to take some<br />
cruise ship visitors to<br />
This map shows <strong>the</strong> initial estimate <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crash location, marked with an X (see red circle).<br />
Gibbs Cay to snorkel with<br />
<strong>the</strong> stingrays. For <strong>the</strong> popular and highly respected boat<br />
operator, it looked to be ano<strong>the</strong>r sunny day for an excursion<br />
until a police car pulled up to <strong>the</strong> boat ramp near<br />
Jack’s Shack. The <strong>of</strong>ficer stepped out and informed Kell<br />
that a small plane had gone down in <strong>the</strong> ocean and asked<br />
if he would be able to help with <strong>the</strong> search and rescue.<br />
12:30 PM<br />
Text messages about a plane going down in <strong>the</strong> ocean<br />
flooded <strong>the</strong> chat groups and social media with fast and<br />
fluid speculation. Gordon glanced at his cell phone and<br />
saw someone’s text stating that Kell had left <strong>the</strong> dock<br />
in his boat heading for South Caicos to locate <strong>the</strong> survivors.<br />
He and Captain Irvin instantly realized <strong>the</strong> error<br />
Without hesitation, Kell agreed and cancelled <strong>the</strong><br />
afternoon tour. Two friends, Anthony Forbes and Jervis<br />
Simmons, happened to be at <strong>the</strong> boat ramp with Kell,<br />
heard <strong>the</strong> conversation with <strong>the</strong> police <strong>of</strong>ficer, and on <strong>the</strong><br />
spot <strong>of</strong>fered to join <strong>the</strong> search. Kell knew <strong>the</strong>m as experienced<br />
and reliable boaters and welcomed <strong>the</strong>ir help.<br />
“So, where did <strong>the</strong> plane go down?” Kell asked <strong>the</strong><br />
police <strong>of</strong>ficer. “Off South Caicos,” she replied. Kell thought<br />
to himself that this is a huge area to look for a raft or<br />
someone floating in <strong>the</strong> ocean. But he finished fueling<br />
up his boat and set <strong>of</strong>f anyhow, heading west across <strong>the</strong><br />
Turks Channel towards South Caicos in hopes <strong>of</strong> getting<br />
lucky. Two o<strong>the</strong>r boat captains, Tim Dunn and Ranfurly<br />
Been, had also received word <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crash. Tim prepped<br />
his boat, Esmeralda (Emerald Escapes) and quickly found<br />
two friends, DJ Devano Pierre and Zeus Butterfield, who<br />
dropped everything to help. Ranfurly, a firefighter on<br />
Salt Cay who had been in touch with <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk ATC<br />
about a possible emergency landing, also readied his<br />
boat. Fellow firefighter Walrico Hanschell joined him as<br />
crew.<br />
and called Kell who had been out for about 20 minutes.<br />
“You’re going in <strong>the</strong> wrong direction!” Gordon hollered.<br />
“The plane ditched nor<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay. Stand by. I’ll get<br />
you <strong>the</strong> coordinates.”<br />
Somehow, when <strong>the</strong> crash information was passed<br />
down <strong>the</strong> chain, <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> 19 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong><br />
Grand Turk had become garbled or confused. It is not<br />
unusual for <strong>the</strong> first report coming in about an emergency<br />
or crisis to contain errors, especially when <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are several layers <strong>of</strong> personnel involved. (The second<br />
report usually contains <strong>the</strong> corrections.) There was no<br />
time to dwell on what may have happened.<br />
Gordon called Kell back with <strong>the</strong> coordinates that he<br />
entered into his GPS and turned <strong>the</strong> boat heading east.<br />
From Kell’s position, <strong>the</strong> crash site was a good 25 miles<br />
away on a course that would take him along <strong>the</strong> north<br />
coast <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay, south <strong>of</strong> Cotton Cay, and past Pinzon<br />
(East) Cay fur<strong>the</strong>r out into <strong>the</strong> Atlantic.<br />
These were familiar waters for all <strong>the</strong> boat captains<br />
and <strong>the</strong> crews, most <strong>of</strong> who hailed from storied families<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 47
<strong>of</strong> Salt Cay sailors and had carried on <strong>the</strong> maritime tradition<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir forebears. But finding anyone in eight to ten<br />
foot swells and a howling 25 knot wind would be next to<br />
impossible, even for <strong>the</strong> most seasoned mariner.<br />
The flight<br />
7:30 AM / Basseterre, St. Kitts<br />
Earlier that morning Cessna pilot Ellington Osborne<br />
and Ronny Viquez, a friend and flight instructor, went<br />
through <strong>the</strong> preflight checklist toge<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> Robert L.<br />
Bradshaw International Airport. Ellington lived in Miami<br />
where he had established a successful electrical contracting<br />
and security monitoring company. But St. Kitts<br />
was where he was born, and this trip had been for a<br />
Christmas visit back to his home island to reunite with<br />
relatives and friends. The flight plan he filed would take<br />
him first to Provo to refuel and <strong>the</strong>n on to Miami. An<br />
experienced pilot with more than 300 hours <strong>of</strong> flying time<br />
in his Cessna, Ellington had flown this route several times<br />
before and knew it well.<br />
Joining Ellington and Ronny for <strong>the</strong> trip was Ellington’s<br />
bro<strong>the</strong>r Lesroy Osborne and niece Valecia Osborne.<br />
Ronny, who already had 1,800 hours <strong>of</strong> flight time, sat<br />
in <strong>the</strong> right front seat next to Ellington to rack up some<br />
multi-engine aircraft time. The St. Kitts airport did not<br />
have aviation fuel, but Ellington had fueled up in Anguilla<br />
on <strong>the</strong> way down from Miami ten days earlier and had<br />
more than enough gas to make it to Provo. But on take<strong>of</strong>f,<br />
<strong>the</strong> St. Kitts ATC instructed Ellington to climb to<br />
7,000 ft. heading east, <strong>the</strong> opposite direction, before<br />
clearing him to turn northwest toward Puerto Rico. That<br />
unexpected diversion caused Ellington to use more fuel,<br />
but he still had plenty in reserve.<br />
The Cessna’s northwest heading took <strong>the</strong> four past St.<br />
Croix and over <strong>the</strong> mountains <strong>of</strong> Puerto Rico. The plane<br />
continued to fly on a heading <strong>of</strong> 308º above <strong>the</strong> reefs<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Navidad Bank and Silver Bank <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> north coast<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic toward <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
<strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
11:15 AM / Sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Salt Cay<br />
While cruising at 16,000 feet, Ellington prepared to activate<br />
<strong>the</strong> fuel transfer pump to move gas from one tank to<br />
ano<strong>the</strong>r. But <strong>the</strong> switch failed. After trying several times<br />
to make it work without success, he radioed Miami Center<br />
to advise his situation. Concerned about <strong>the</strong> possibility <strong>of</strong><br />
running out <strong>of</strong> fuel at a high altitude, he made a judgement<br />
call to descend to a lower altitude and received<br />
permission from Miami Center. As he cross-fed fuel<br />
from one wing to ano<strong>the</strong>r, he could see that <strong>the</strong> engines<br />
continued to burn fuel at a high rate and attempted to<br />
contact Grand Turk ATC to see if aviation fuel was available.<br />
However, he was still outside <strong>the</strong> “cone” <strong>of</strong> Grand<br />
Turk air traffic communication. A second plane in <strong>the</strong><br />
air and closer to Grand Turk picked up <strong>the</strong> message and<br />
relayed it on.<br />
At 3,000 ft. <strong>the</strong> right engine began sputtering.<br />
Ellington shut it down and fea<strong>the</strong>red <strong>the</strong> prop by turning<br />
<strong>the</strong> sharp edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> blade so that it cut straight into<br />
<strong>the</strong> wind to reduce drag. Flying on just <strong>the</strong> left engine,<br />
he hoped to reach Grand Turk. But doubts quickly set in<br />
when <strong>the</strong> left engine began running rough before resuming<br />
power.<br />
11:30 AM<br />
At 2,000 feet Ellington realized <strong>the</strong>re was no chance <strong>of</strong><br />
making it to Grand Turk and prepared to ditch in <strong>the</strong><br />
ocean. As he was descending, he finally came within range<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grand Turk ATC and, in a barely audible transmission,<br />
told Danial <strong>the</strong>y were going down. The pilot in<br />
<strong>the</strong> second plane in <strong>the</strong> air could still hear Ellington over<br />
<strong>the</strong> 121.5 emergency frequency and anxiously relayed<br />
Ellington’s transmission before she too lost contact.<br />
At 800 feet <strong>the</strong> left engine sputtered and at 300 feet<br />
it shut down. Now <strong>the</strong> plane could only glide. At 200 feet<br />
Ellington could clearly see <strong>the</strong> whitecaps below and felt<br />
<strong>the</strong> strong wind bulleting <strong>the</strong> plane. He knew from his<br />
training that he would have to try to line up <strong>the</strong> plane<br />
parallel to <strong>the</strong> swells to minimize <strong>the</strong> impact when hitting<br />
<strong>the</strong> water. But it was hard to make out <strong>the</strong> swell direction<br />
through <strong>the</strong> sloshing waves.<br />
Ellington kept <strong>the</strong> airspeed at 100 MPH before moving<br />
<strong>the</strong> wing flaps down to slow <strong>the</strong> aircraft a fur<strong>the</strong>r 20<br />
MPH, close to <strong>the</strong> stall speed, <strong>the</strong> point at which <strong>the</strong> air<br />
separates from <strong>the</strong> wing and can no longer fly. At <strong>the</strong><br />
same time, he pressed hard on <strong>the</strong> right rudder pedal to<br />
“crab” <strong>the</strong> plane into <strong>the</strong> strong crosswind and keep it<br />
stable while slowing <strong>the</strong> airspeed a little more. When <strong>the</strong><br />
Cessna was just 20 feet above <strong>the</strong> water, Ellington pulled<br />
<strong>the</strong> yoke back just a bit in an attempt to land with <strong>the</strong> tail<br />
first. Strangely, <strong>the</strong> fear left Ellington as he was literally<br />
on autopilot and focused on <strong>the</strong> ditching seconds away.<br />
Then he shouted, “Brace!”<br />
The crash<br />
11:39 AM<br />
The plane slammed into <strong>the</strong> ocean and flipped on its side<br />
with <strong>the</strong> left wing digging into <strong>the</strong> water and right wing<br />
48 www.timespub.tc
sticking up into <strong>the</strong> air. From his left seat, Ellington saw<br />
nothing but water pushing against <strong>the</strong> side window. He<br />
quickly unbuckled his seatbelt and made his way back<br />
to <strong>the</strong> cabin where Valecia and Lesroy were sitting and<br />
pushed open <strong>the</strong> door that was still just above <strong>the</strong> water<br />
line. As soon as he did, <strong>the</strong> water began rushing in. Still,<br />
everyone managed to scrambled out.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> chaos, Lesroy’s life jacket did not inflate. So<br />
while in <strong>the</strong> water, Ellington and Ronny filled it up by<br />
blowing air through <strong>the</strong> extended tubes. Luckily, <strong>the</strong><br />
jacket started inflating automatically. At that point<br />
Ellington realized that his own life jacket had become<br />
stuck around his neck and one shoulder. He also saw that<br />
<strong>the</strong> raft he had taken out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> plane and inflated had<br />
somehow blown loose just as <strong>the</strong> plane was disappearing<br />
below <strong>the</strong> surface, all in a matter <strong>of</strong> minutes.<br />
Unable to reach <strong>the</strong> raft floating away, Ellington and<br />
Ronny tried to hook everyone’s life vests toge<strong>the</strong>r, a near<br />
impossible task as one wave after ano<strong>the</strong>r battered <strong>the</strong><br />
four survivors bobbing helplessly in <strong>the</strong> water. Lesroy<br />
began drifting from <strong>the</strong> group. Ellington tried swimming<br />
after him, but could not catch up. He swam back to <strong>the</strong><br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs, his heart filled with agony. All <strong>the</strong>y could do now<br />
was wait and hope as <strong>the</strong> chilly water began sapping heat<br />
from <strong>the</strong>ir bodies.<br />
Ellington apologized for what had happened even<br />
though he successfully ditched <strong>the</strong> plane using incredible<br />
piloting skills that few o<strong>the</strong>r pilots would have been<br />
able to do. That finesse under extreme pressure allowed<br />
everyone to get out alive and barely sca<strong>the</strong>d. No pilot can<br />
properly train for that event. Ronny, keeping his cool,<br />
said to Ellington as <strong>the</strong> sea tossed <strong>the</strong>m about, “Listen,<br />
let’s worry about staying alive. We’ll get out <strong>of</strong> this.”<br />
Ellington had cheated death in <strong>the</strong> crash, but <strong>the</strong><br />
prospect <strong>of</strong> dying continued to stalk <strong>the</strong> four survivors<br />
pummeled by waves in a vast ocean. He began talking<br />
aloud to his mo<strong>the</strong>r who had passed away 20 years<br />
earlier, wondering if he would see her soon. He always<br />
remembered how she had looked after him as a child and<br />
asked over and over, “Mom, if you can hear me, can you<br />
help?”<br />
12:45 PM<br />
After drifting for almost an hour in <strong>the</strong> water, <strong>the</strong> four<br />
saw a twin-engine aircraft from <strong>the</strong> US Coast Guard circling<br />
high above <strong>the</strong>m that boosted <strong>the</strong>ir spirits. After a<br />
few minutes, it circled back, and <strong>the</strong>y waved frantically,<br />
but it was too high to see <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 49
ANTHONY FORBES—TRIPLE A EVENT PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Experienced boatmen (from left) Anthony Forbes, Kell Talbot, and Jervis Simmons return to Grand Turk in Kell’s boat I Comin’ Now following<br />
<strong>the</strong> heroic and miraculous rescue.<br />
1:24 PM<br />
Almost 45 minutes later a black US Customs and Border<br />
Patrol helicopter came into view and flew a big circle.<br />
Once again, <strong>the</strong>y waved <strong>the</strong>ir arms in hopes <strong>the</strong> crew<br />
would see <strong>the</strong>m, but <strong>the</strong>y didn’t and flew <strong>of</strong>f.<br />
2:30 PM<br />
After more than three hours in <strong>the</strong> water, a US Coast<br />
Guard helicopter appeared. By now <strong>the</strong>y had swallowed<br />
so much seawater and sensed <strong>the</strong>ir arms and legs going<br />
numb. Still, <strong>the</strong>y were hopeful, especially as <strong>the</strong> helicopter<br />
passed near <strong>the</strong>m. This time <strong>the</strong>y were too exhausted<br />
to wave. After 45 minutes, <strong>the</strong> US Coast Guard chopper<br />
flew away too and despair returned. Life was closing out.<br />
Suddenly, Ellington told Ronny and Valecia that he<br />
heard an engine noise, but <strong>the</strong>y didn’t believe him.<br />
The rescue<br />
1:30 PM / Sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk<br />
It took Kell more than an hour to reach <strong>the</strong> location based<br />
on <strong>the</strong> coordinates provided by Captain Irvin and Gordon.<br />
Motoring against <strong>the</strong> current in rough seas forced Kell to<br />
reduce speed, so <strong>the</strong> trip took longer than it might have<br />
on a calm day. When his aptly named vessel, I Comin’<br />
Now, finally arrived, <strong>the</strong> US Coast Guard fixed-wing plane<br />
and <strong>the</strong> first helicopter were still in <strong>the</strong> air circling over<br />
<strong>the</strong> area and communicating <strong>of</strong>f and on with Danial at<br />
<strong>the</strong> Grand Turk Tower. Tim arrived on <strong>the</strong> scene a few<br />
minutes later and spotted Kell’s boat a couple <strong>of</strong> miles<br />
<strong>of</strong>f as well as <strong>the</strong> two aircraft. But shortly after <strong>the</strong> boats<br />
arrived, both aircraft left <strong>the</strong> scene.<br />
Captains Kell and Tim decided to let <strong>the</strong> boats drift<br />
with <strong>the</strong> current, as it might take <strong>the</strong>m to where any survivors<br />
might be since <strong>the</strong>y had also likely drifted from<br />
where <strong>the</strong> plane had ditched —that is if anyone had survived<br />
<strong>the</strong> crash. Ranfury and Walrico also approached <strong>the</strong><br />
scene but conducted <strong>the</strong>ir search a couple <strong>of</strong> miles south.<br />
All three boats spent two long hours meticulously looking<br />
for survivors while holding on tight as <strong>the</strong> swells washed<br />
over <strong>the</strong> bows. But <strong>the</strong>y saw no sign <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people or <strong>the</strong><br />
plane.<br />
50 www.timespub.tc
2:30 PM<br />
Out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> blue, a US Coast<br />
Guard helicopter showed<br />
up and circled around. At<br />
one point, it appeared to<br />
drop low and hover just<br />
a couple <strong>of</strong> hundred feet<br />
above <strong>the</strong> waves. Kell and<br />
Tim thought for a moment<br />
that <strong>the</strong> chopper may<br />
have spotted someone.<br />
Tim radioed <strong>the</strong> helicopter<br />
several times to find out<br />
but received no response.<br />
After about 45 minutes,<br />
it too departed, unable<br />
to find anyone, even<br />
with sophisticated sensor<br />
equipment onboard.<br />
3:15 PM<br />
As daylight was running<br />
out, Kell noticed mist<br />
spraying into <strong>the</strong> air just<br />
ahead. At first he thought<br />
it might be a humpback<br />
whale that had arrived<br />
early in <strong>the</strong> season. But <strong>the</strong> spray turned out to be from<br />
a dolphin. Soon, two o<strong>the</strong>r dolphins appeared <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong><br />
starboard side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat moving in <strong>the</strong> same nor<strong>the</strong>rly<br />
direction. On a whim and out <strong>of</strong> curiosity, Kell decided to<br />
follow <strong>the</strong>m and gently nudged <strong>the</strong> throttle forward out <strong>of</strong><br />
neutral. After a couple <strong>of</strong> minutes, <strong>the</strong> dolphins suddenly<br />
veered right and that’s when Kell, Anthony, and Jervis<br />
heard a woman scream, “Help, help!”<br />
In <strong>the</strong> water just in front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong>y saw Valecia<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n Ellington and Ronny huddled toge<strong>the</strong>r. Anthony<br />
and Jervis threw out a life ring attached to a rope, pulled<br />
<strong>the</strong>m toward <strong>the</strong> boat and helped <strong>the</strong>m all onboard. Kell<br />
hit his GPS to mark <strong>the</strong> location at N 21°13.644 / W071°<br />
15.509. That put <strong>the</strong>m 17.5 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast <strong>of</strong> Grand<br />
Turk which showed <strong>the</strong>y had drifted about a mile and a<br />
half northwest from <strong>the</strong>ir crash site.<br />
After <strong>the</strong> rescue pilot Ellington Osborne and Valecia Osborne were shivering with cold but only suffered<br />
minor cuts from <strong>the</strong> crash.<br />
The three survivors on board were shivering and had<br />
suffered some cuts from <strong>the</strong> crash. Jervis brought <strong>the</strong>m<br />
towels and blankets while Anthony opened a medical kit<br />
to treat <strong>the</strong>m for cuts. But Ellington waived <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>f and<br />
said, “My bro<strong>the</strong>r Lesroy is missing. He got loose from us<br />
and drifted <strong>of</strong>f. We have to find him.” Kell looked around<br />
from <strong>the</strong> flybridge and again saw dolphins just ahead.<br />
This time he knew <strong>the</strong>y were telling him something, and<br />
he steered <strong>the</strong> boat in <strong>the</strong>ir direction. After following <strong>the</strong><br />
dolphins for a quarter <strong>of</strong> a mile, Kell spotted Lesroy in his<br />
life jacket, right where <strong>the</strong> animals had taken him.<br />
Anthony and Jervis pulled Lesroy on board too where<br />
he received big hugs from Ellington, Valecia, and Ronny.<br />
Suffering from hypo<strong>the</strong>rmia after nearly four hours in <strong>the</strong><br />
water, all four survivors were in a daze and needed to<br />
warm up. For Kell, Anthony, and Jervis, <strong>the</strong> miraculous<br />
moment began to sink in. They knew that no one should<br />
have survived <strong>the</strong> crash and nor should any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m have<br />
been found in <strong>the</strong> rough, chilly sea. Yet here <strong>the</strong>y were,<br />
face to face with four souls who had somehow defied <strong>the</strong><br />
long odds. They felt a deep sense <strong>of</strong> satisfaction and were<br />
keenly aware <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> role played by friendly dolphins.<br />
Indeed, according to <strong>the</strong> Whale and Dolphin<br />
Conservation Society, recorded stories <strong>of</strong> dolphins protecting<br />
humans date back to ancient Greece. In recent<br />
decades, <strong>the</strong>re have been several accounts <strong>of</strong> dolphins<br />
protecting swimmers and surfers from sharks as well as<br />
nudging a drowning child back to <strong>the</strong> safety <strong>of</strong> a boat.<br />
ANTHONY FORBES—TRIPLE A EVENT PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 51
The return<br />
3:45 PM<br />
Kell called his partner Ka<strong>the</strong>rine Hart to tell her that he<br />
and <strong>the</strong> crew had found all four from <strong>the</strong> plane alive and<br />
that <strong>the</strong>y were heading back to Grand Turk. She notified<br />
<strong>the</strong> authorities and let <strong>the</strong> ambulance know <strong>the</strong> boat<br />
with survivors was on its way. A few people following <strong>the</strong><br />
unceasing flow <strong>of</strong> text messages on <strong>the</strong>ir phones could<br />
not believe that all aboard <strong>the</strong> plane had been rescued.<br />
It just did not seem possible in <strong>the</strong> heavy seas and gusty<br />
winds.<br />
MORGAN LUKER<br />
Later in January, Kell Talbot found <strong>the</strong> Cessna engine cover on Great<br />
Sand Cay.<br />
Why <strong>the</strong>y do this remains a bit <strong>of</strong> a mystery, but researchers<br />
at <strong>the</strong> National Aquarium in Baltimore, Maryland have<br />
come up with a <strong>the</strong>ory. Dolphins, it seems, recognize<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves in a mirror and this capability, <strong>the</strong> researchers<br />
say, “is thought to correlate with higher forms <strong>of</strong> empathy<br />
and altruistic behavior.”<br />
The Turks & Caicos dolphins certainly exhibited that<br />
wonderful attribute by looking out for humans in distress.<br />
But <strong>the</strong>y were not yet done. As Kell readied <strong>the</strong> boat to<br />
head back, a couple <strong>of</strong> dozen dolphins swam all around<br />
<strong>the</strong> boat. Soon more came into view, undulating through<br />
<strong>the</strong> choppy seas in a wondrous display <strong>of</strong> wild nature.<br />
No one doubted what <strong>the</strong>y were saying: “Hey, we’re glad<br />
that you are back with your people.” And <strong>the</strong>n still more<br />
showed up. Kell estimated that a pod <strong>of</strong> as many as 100<br />
dolphins had ga<strong>the</strong>red about. He had only seen that many<br />
dolphins toge<strong>the</strong>r twice in all his decades <strong>of</strong> being on <strong>the</strong><br />
sea <strong>of</strong>f Grand Turk and Salt Cay. And those were just<br />
pods moving toge<strong>the</strong>r in search <strong>of</strong> food. This time, however,<br />
<strong>the</strong> dolphins weren’t looking for food. They were<br />
<strong>the</strong>re to relish <strong>the</strong> moment too.<br />
4:15 pm / Grand Turk<br />
That belief was soon dashed when Kell arrived at <strong>the</strong><br />
dock with four happy but still stunned survivors. People<br />
stopped whatever <strong>the</strong>y were doing to come and witness<br />
<strong>the</strong> extraordinary and unexpected rescue by <strong>the</strong>ir island<br />
boys. One <strong>of</strong> those on <strong>the</strong> dock was Dalton Daniel who<br />
was attached to <strong>the</strong> Governor’s Office and a marine with<br />
<strong>the</strong> TCI Regiment. Dalton took it upon himself to escort<br />
<strong>the</strong> ambulance taking <strong>the</strong> four survivors to <strong>the</strong> hospital<br />
to make sure <strong>the</strong>y had whatever <strong>the</strong>y needed. After <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were treated for minor injuries and released, Dalton took<br />
<strong>the</strong>m to <strong>the</strong> Osprey Hotel where <strong>the</strong> Tourist Board had<br />
booked <strong>the</strong>m rooms and gave <strong>the</strong>m his own shoes and<br />
clo<strong>the</strong>s to wear. He also lent <strong>the</strong>m his cell phone so <strong>the</strong>y<br />
could call <strong>the</strong>ir families and let <strong>the</strong>m know <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
alive. Then-Governor Nigel Dakin called Ellington to see<br />
how he and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs were doing.<br />
While finally settling into <strong>the</strong> hotel room and letting<br />
<strong>the</strong> full experience <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ditching pour over him,<br />
Ellington checked his pockets and was surprised to see<br />
that he still had his wallet and AMEX card. Although <strong>the</strong><br />
governor and TCI Government had guaranteed hotel<br />
room costs, Ellington insisted on paying with his credit<br />
card so as not to be a burden. The heartfelt TCI generosity<br />
continued <strong>the</strong> next morning when a local man saw <strong>the</strong><br />
survivors inside <strong>the</strong> Osprey Hotel café eating breakfast.<br />
Figuring <strong>the</strong>y had lost everything, <strong>the</strong> man, whose name<br />
is not known, pulled $100 from his pocket and pushed it<br />
into Ellington’s hand so <strong>the</strong>y would have some spending<br />
money for food and o<strong>the</strong>r necessities.<br />
One thing all <strong>the</strong> survivors did lose in <strong>the</strong> plane crash<br />
was <strong>the</strong>ir passports. Ellington’s wife in Miami quickly<br />
stepped in and located <strong>the</strong> eAPIS (Electronic Advance<br />
Passenger Information System) email that Ellington had<br />
filed before taking <strong>of</strong>f from St. Kitts. The eAPIS listed<br />
<strong>the</strong> US citizenship <strong>of</strong> Ellington, Valecia, and Lesroy and<br />
noted that Ronny was a Costa Rican citizen on a US stu-<br />
52 www.timespub.tc
dent visa. She contacted US Immigration authorities who<br />
quickly accepted <strong>the</strong> eAPIS as sufficient pro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong> status<br />
and authorized entry for all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m into <strong>the</strong> US without<br />
documents. The lucky four flew to Provo where <strong>the</strong>y<br />
caught a plane home to Miami.<br />
The aftermath<br />
Later in January, while dropping <strong>of</strong>f Ka<strong>the</strong>rine and Morgan<br />
Luker on Great Sand Cay for a hawksbill turtle nesting<br />
survey, Kell, accompanied by Anthony and Jervis, noticed<br />
a hunk <strong>of</strong> white metal on <strong>the</strong> beach. On closer inspection,<br />
he saw that it looked like an engine cover from a plane<br />
and wondered if it might be from Ellington’s Cessna. He<br />
lugged <strong>the</strong> engine cover over <strong>the</strong> beach and put it on his<br />
boat. Back in Grand Turk, he called Ellington who asked<br />
if he could see an “R” on <strong>the</strong> cowling. Kell did, which confirmed<br />
that it was in fact from <strong>the</strong> ditched plane that had<br />
washed up on <strong>the</strong> beach.<br />
That summer, Ellington traveled to Grand Turk with his<br />
wife and three children so <strong>the</strong>y could meet <strong>the</strong> Islanders<br />
who had saved his life and <strong>the</strong> lives <strong>of</strong> Ronny, Valecia,<br />
and Lesroy. The quick actions by those in <strong>the</strong> tower at<br />
<strong>the</strong> airport, <strong>the</strong> selfless courage and fortitude <strong>of</strong> those<br />
who went out on <strong>the</strong> boats, and unhesitating kindness<br />
<strong>of</strong> people on Grand Turk from high level <strong>of</strong>ficials to ordinary<br />
folk touched Ellington deeply. He stated, “No words<br />
can describe <strong>the</strong> love and affection I have for <strong>the</strong> people<br />
<strong>of</strong> Grand Turk and Salt Cay who had risked and done so<br />
much for us.” He had formed an unshakable bond with<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, and his life would never be <strong>the</strong> same.<br />
Wanting to give back, Ellington asked Captain Irvin<br />
what <strong>the</strong>y needed and was told more cameras and monitors<br />
for <strong>the</strong> airport security. Knowing <strong>the</strong>se products well<br />
from his security and surveillance business, he ordered 16<br />
<strong>of</strong> each and shipped <strong>the</strong>m to Grand Turk. He also learned<br />
that Grand Turk’s H.J. Robinson High School could use<br />
computers. So he dug into his pocket and raised money<br />
from his friends in Florida to buy 100 Micros<strong>of</strong>t Surfaces<br />
and external keyboards for <strong>the</strong> school.<br />
In November 2023, Lesroy received a surprising call<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Cayman <strong>Islands</strong> at his Orlando home. It turns<br />
out that <strong>the</strong> briefcase he had left behind in <strong>the</strong> plane had<br />
been found on a beach in Grand Cayman. Inside were his<br />
wallet with ID along with his passport that enabled <strong>of</strong>fcials<br />
to locate Lesroy in <strong>the</strong> U.S. and confirm his ownership.<br />
Astoundingly, <strong>the</strong> briefcase had floated more than 500<br />
miles southwest from <strong>the</strong> crash site, past Great Inagua<br />
Island, through <strong>the</strong> Windward Passage between Cuba and<br />
Haiti, and along <strong>the</strong> north coast <strong>of</strong> Jamaica before finally<br />
washing up on a beach in Cayman.<br />
The fast and decisive actions and steady demeanor<br />
<strong>of</strong> all those involved in <strong>the</strong> response, as well as <strong>the</strong> care<br />
afterwards, cannot be understated. On that day Kell,<br />
Anthony, and Jervis, along with Tim, DJ, Zeus, Ranfurly,<br />
and Walrico had done what <strong>the</strong>y and o<strong>the</strong>r Turks Islander<br />
mariners were born to do when <strong>the</strong> call came—save people<br />
in trouble on <strong>the</strong> ocean. Finding Ellington, Valecia,<br />
Ronny, and Lesroy—barely hanging on that chaotic<br />
January afternoon—was no fluke.<br />
Extraordinary seamanship, intuition, and courage<br />
made it happen—along with uncanny help from a pod <strong>of</strong><br />
caring dolphins who have always had a kindred spirit with<br />
<strong>the</strong> sailors <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se magical Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. a<br />
Ben Stubenberg is a regular contributor to <strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and has recently published a book entitled<br />
The Jamaican Bobsled Captain: Dudley “Tal” Stokes and<br />
<strong>the</strong> untold story <strong>of</strong> suffering, struggle and redemption<br />
behind Cool Runnings.<br />
Ben’s articles and commentary on TCI and Caribbean<br />
history and current events can be found on his website<br />
BenStubenberg.com.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 53
DR. DONALD H. KEITH<br />
54 www.timespub.tc
feature<br />
Opposite page: This is <strong>the</strong> inscription “[S]HIP ST. LOUIS BURNT AT SEA 1842” as it appears on West Harbour Bluff in Providenciales.<br />
Above: The inscription appears on <strong>the</strong> rocks to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> boat.<br />
CHARLIE TODD<br />
“Burnt at Sea”<br />
The story behind <strong>the</strong> inscription on West Harbour Bluff.<br />
By Jeff Dodge<br />
Not long ago, Dr. Donald Keith, a marine archaeologist and Turks & Caicos National Museum board<br />
member, asked if I might be interested in a research project. The topic was an 1842 inscription on a rock<br />
outcropping on West Harbour Bluff at <strong>the</strong> southwest end <strong>of</strong> Providenciales. As a retired U.S. Navy analyst,<br />
having worked on Grand Turk in <strong>the</strong> 1960s, and after reading <strong>the</strong> inscription, I agreed to undertake <strong>the</strong><br />
project.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 55
The mysterious inscription<br />
The inscription in question is: “[S]HIP ST. LOUIS BURNT<br />
AT SEA 1842.” My objective was to find out more about<br />
<strong>the</strong> event recorded on this rock outcropping as well as<br />
who might have left it <strong>the</strong>re. The chart below depicts <strong>the</strong><br />
location <strong>of</strong> West Harbour Bluff as well as <strong>the</strong> dangerous<br />
waters <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> west end <strong>of</strong> Providenciales and between<br />
Providenciales and West Caicos.<br />
The beginning<br />
On August 17, 1842, <strong>the</strong> packet ship St. Louis left Boston<br />
Harbor on a routine voyage to New Orleans. She carried<br />
a complement <strong>of</strong> 24 passengers and crew as well as mail<br />
and a cargo insured for $44,500, including $10,000 in<br />
gold.<br />
This chart depicts <strong>the</strong> location <strong>of</strong> West Harbour Bluff as well as <strong>the</strong> dangerous waters <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> west end <strong>of</strong> Providenciales and between<br />
Providenciales and West Caicos. (Note: water depths are in feet.)<br />
56 www.timespub.tc
The St. Louis was a packet ship <strong>of</strong> 426 tons owned by<br />
John Fairfield, William Lincoln, and Isaac Stevens, et. al. <strong>of</strong><br />
Boston. The St. Louis was built in Medford, Massachusetts<br />
in 1838 and was one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Messers. Fairfield & Lincoln’s<br />
line <strong>of</strong> New Orleans packet ships.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> 18th century, packet ships were typically<br />
medium sized vessels under contract by <strong>the</strong> British government<br />
to carry mail on a regular schedule between<br />
fixed ports, such as Ireland and her colonies. By <strong>the</strong> 19th<br />
century, American packets were carrying passengers and<br />
cargo in addition to <strong>the</strong> mail.<br />
The longest established legal practice<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Real Estate Investments<br />
& Property Development<br />
Immigration, Residency<br />
& Business Licensing<br />
Company & Commercial Law<br />
Trusts & Estate Planning<br />
Banking & Insurance<br />
This advertisement appeared frequently in <strong>the</strong> Boston Courier newspaper.<br />
Orice King was listed as Captain <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> St. Louis, however by<br />
August 1842, if not before, Reuben Eldridge was her Master.<br />
1 Caribbean Place, P.O. Box 97<br />
Leeward Highway, Providenciales<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Ph: 649 946 4344 • Fax: 649 946 4564<br />
E-Mail: dempsey@tciway.tc<br />
Cockburn House, P.O. Box 70<br />
Market Street, Grand Turk<br />
Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI<br />
Ph: 649 946 2245 • Fax: 649 946 2758<br />
E-Mail: ffdlawco@tciway.tc<br />
A July 16, 1842 advertisement in a Boston newspaper announced that<br />
<strong>the</strong> packet ship St. Louis was loading at Lewis Wharf. Notice <strong>the</strong> promotion<br />
for elegantly furnished accommodations.<br />
Disaster strikes<br />
Ferdinando de Castillo, a steward from <strong>the</strong> ship St. Louis,<br />
reported (after <strong>the</strong> fact) that on <strong>the</strong> night <strong>of</strong> August 29,<br />
1842 at about 7 PM after passengers and crew had eaten<br />
dinner and were all on deck, a passenger, aft <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> main<br />
hatch, saw a column <strong>of</strong> smoke rising from what she<br />
thought was <strong>the</strong> ladies’ cabin below. The steward said<br />
<strong>the</strong> fire was actually not in <strong>the</strong> ladies’ cabin, but in <strong>the</strong><br />
hold below it.<br />
The smoke was so dense in <strong>the</strong> companionway that<br />
<strong>the</strong> crew could not descend below to extinguish <strong>the</strong> fire.<br />
That being <strong>the</strong> case, <strong>the</strong> crew closed all hatches and covered<br />
<strong>the</strong>m and <strong>the</strong> deck with wet sails to try to smo<strong>the</strong>r<br />
<strong>the</strong> fire below.<br />
john redmond associates ltd.<br />
architects & designers<br />
construction consultants<br />
project management<br />
p.o.box 21, providenciales, turks & caicos is.<br />
tel.: 9464440 cell: 2314569 email: redmond@tciway.tc<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 57
GIDEON JACQUES DENNY<br />
This oil painting depicts <strong>the</strong> packet ship St. Louis on fire on August 30, 1842, with <strong>the</strong> soon-to-be-doomed brig Impulse in <strong>the</strong> background.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> meantime, Captain Reuben Eldridge, master <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> St. Louis, raised a lantern at half mast to signal distress.<br />
As <strong>the</strong> fire intensified, <strong>the</strong> decks became so hot<br />
that crew and passengers were forced to abandon <strong>the</strong> St.<br />
Louis on her long boat and stern boat. A brig <strong>the</strong>y had<br />
sighted earlier in <strong>the</strong> day bore down on <strong>the</strong> St. Louis and<br />
took her crew and passengers aboard.<br />
The ill-fated rescue<br />
The brig Impulse—Captain William Wallace master—left<br />
Baltimore on August 13, 1842 heading for Kingston,<br />
Jamaica. She picked up <strong>the</strong> crew and passengers from<br />
<strong>the</strong> St. Louis early on <strong>the</strong> morning <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 30th. Both vessels<br />
were located in <strong>the</strong> Atlantic between Bermuda and<br />
<strong>the</strong> South Carolina coast. At about 5 AM, <strong>the</strong> masts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
burning ship were seen falling—Impulse lost sight <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
St. Louis a few hours later. By <strong>the</strong>n she had burned to <strong>the</strong><br />
water line.<br />
At about 9 PM on September 3, four days after rescuing<br />
passengers and crew from <strong>the</strong> St. Louis, <strong>the</strong> Impulse<br />
wrecked on <strong>the</strong> Caycas (sic) Reef near <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong><br />
Providence Caicos (Providenciales). It was reported that<br />
a hurricane played a part in <strong>the</strong> incident—perhaps it was<br />
<strong>the</strong> storm known as Antje’s Hurricane. It’s not clear if<br />
Impulse was navigating <strong>the</strong> Caicos Passage <strong>of</strong>f northwest<br />
Providenciales or was on a different course when it<br />
wrecked on a reef.<br />
A brig wrecked on a reef<br />
It wasn’t long before a wrecker appeared on <strong>the</strong> scene<br />
to salvage <strong>the</strong> cargo and anything else <strong>of</strong> value from <strong>the</strong><br />
foundering vessel. This is described in a letter Captain<br />
Eldridge wrote from Cienfuegos, Cuba to Messrs. Harrod<br />
& Darling—<strong>the</strong> New Orleans agents for <strong>the</strong> St. Louis.<br />
Cienfuegos, Sept. 20 [1842]<br />
Messrs. Harrod & Darling:<br />
I am sorry to say that <strong>the</strong> good ship St. Louis is no more. We left Boston on<br />
<strong>the</strong> 17th Aug., and on <strong>the</strong> 30th after sundown we found <strong>the</strong> ship was on fire below.<br />
We made an effort to put it out, but <strong>of</strong> no avail; it made such progress that we did<br />
not save all our things, and some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> passengers only saved what <strong>the</strong>y had on at<br />
<strong>the</strong> time. Fortunately for us <strong>the</strong>re was a brig in sight who came to our rescue.—<br />
She was <strong>the</strong> brig Impulse, Capt. Wallace [master], from Baltimore bound for<br />
Jamaica. On Sept. 4th about 9 P.M. she run ashore trying to get through <strong>the</strong><br />
Caycas (sic) passage in <strong>the</strong> night, and was lost. We <strong>the</strong>n got on board <strong>of</strong> a wrecker<br />
belonging to Turks’ Island, and on <strong>the</strong> 7th started for that place. On <strong>the</strong> 9th fell<br />
58 www.timespub.tc
in with <strong>the</strong> brig Sarah Williams, who took me, my mate, cook and two passengers<br />
to this place [Cienfuegos, Cuba].— The passengers expect to start to<br />
Havana tomorrow, on <strong>the</strong>ir way to your city [New Orleans]. I did not save<br />
<strong>the</strong> ship’s papers nor <strong>the</strong> letter bag.<br />
Note: <strong>Times</strong> and dates reported in newspapers and written<br />
reports on <strong>the</strong>se events did not always agree. One<br />
reason was because <strong>the</strong> chronometer aboard a ship was<br />
usually set for Greenwich Mean Time, or because <strong>the</strong><br />
author just got his facts wrong.<br />
Some go to Cuba<br />
On Sept. 7 a wrecker left Providenciales for Grand Turk<br />
with <strong>the</strong> crews and passengers from <strong>the</strong> Impulse and St.<br />
Louis. Two days later, <strong>the</strong> brig Sarah Williams <strong>of</strong> Boston,<br />
on her way to Cienfuegos, Cuba, “spoke” (sic) [met] with<br />
<strong>the</strong> wrecker and took Captain Eldridge; Felix Whitney, his<br />
1st <strong>of</strong>ficer; Joseph Wells, <strong>the</strong> cook and two passengers<br />
aboard. They arrived at Cienfuegos on Sept. 20.<br />
As Captain Eldridge’s letter states, <strong>the</strong> two passengers<br />
that traveled with him to Cuba planned to leave<br />
Cienfuegos for Havana on Sept. 21. Once in Havana, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
secured passage on <strong>the</strong> Schooner Belle for New Orleans—<br />
<strong>the</strong>y arrived on October 1.<br />
Captain Eldridge, his 1st <strong>of</strong>ficer, and cook left Cuba on<br />
September 26 aboard <strong>the</strong> Sarah Williams on her return<br />
trip to Boston. They arrived in Boston on October 16—21<br />
days after leaving Cuba. In <strong>the</strong> meantime, <strong>the</strong> crew and<br />
passengers that remained aboard <strong>the</strong> wrecker reached<br />
Grand Turk on September 11. The following day, John<br />
Arthur, <strong>the</strong> U.S. Consul on Grand Turk, wrote <strong>the</strong> following<br />
in his log.<br />
United States Consulate<br />
Turks <strong>Islands</strong><br />
William Wallace, Master <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Brig Impulse, noted protest inconsequence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
shipwreck and loss <strong>of</strong> said Brig on a Reef <strong>of</strong>f Providence Caicos on <strong>the</strong> night <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
3rd instant [September] in her passage from Baltimore to Jamaica.<br />
Before me this 12 day <strong>of</strong> September 1842—<br />
John Arthur<br />
U.S. Consul<br />
Wm Wallace<br />
[master, brig Impulse]<br />
That same day John Arthur wrote <strong>the</strong> following letter<br />
to <strong>the</strong> U.S. Secretary <strong>of</strong> State regarding <strong>the</strong> brig Impulse<br />
and <strong>the</strong> ship St. Louis.<br />
United States Consulate<br />
Turks <strong>Islands</strong> 12th Sept. 1842<br />
Honorable Daniel Webster<br />
Sect. Of State <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> United States<br />
Sir,<br />
I beg leave to inform your Excellency that on <strong>the</strong> 30th ultimo [August], <strong>the</strong><br />
Brig Impulse <strong>of</strong> and from Baltimore, Wallace Master, laden with flour, corn etc,<br />
in her passage to Jamaica spoke [to] <strong>the</strong> ship St. Louis, Eldridge late Master,<br />
<strong>of</strong> and from Boston, laden with an assorted cargo and bound to New Orleans, on<br />
fire; and <strong>the</strong> flames increased so rapidly, that <strong>the</strong> passengers, crew and Master could<br />
save nothing except what happened to be about <strong>the</strong>ir persons and I regret to say, that<br />
on <strong>the</strong> night <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> third instant [September], <strong>the</strong> aforesaid Brig Impulse was<br />
totally lost on a Reef <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> Providence Caicos [Providenciales], <strong>the</strong> Master<br />
and crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Brig toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ship and part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> materials<br />
saved from <strong>the</strong> Brig, were brought here on <strong>the</strong> eleventh and present instant; <strong>the</strong><br />
crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ship St. Louis being perfectly destitute: Capt. Eldridge and Mate took<br />
passage on <strong>the</strong> Brig Sarah Williams to St. Jago [Santiago] de Cuba.<br />
I have also to advise your Excellency <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hurricane Brig Mary<br />
Silsbee, Soullard (sic) late Master in her passage from Norfolk to Jamaica laden<br />
with staves, and corn: On <strong>the</strong> night <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> second instant Capt. Soullard (sic) was<br />
compelled to run her on shore on <strong>the</strong> N.E. Caicos, in consequence <strong>of</strong> her leaking<br />
badly. The Captain, Crew, and a small portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> materials, have also arrived<br />
here.<br />
I have <strong>the</strong> honor to remain with all due respect Your Excellency’s<br />
Mo-.obdt-.Servt. [Most obedient servant]<br />
John Arthur<br />
On September 15, 1842, five St. Louis crew members<br />
and three passengers left Grand Turk aboard <strong>the</strong><br />
brig Mary Emily. Sixteen days later <strong>the</strong>y arrived at <strong>the</strong><br />
port <strong>of</strong> New York. It was standard practice for <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
Consulate on Grand Turk to assist those persons wrecked<br />
or stranded on <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> to secure transportation<br />
back to <strong>the</strong> U.S. It’s not known when or how<br />
<strong>the</strong> captain <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Impulse and <strong>the</strong> remaining crew and<br />
passengers returned to America.<br />
Wrecking<br />
It is said that 650 to 1,000 vessels have wrecked on <strong>the</strong><br />
reefs around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. In 1842, for<br />
example, at least 16 vessels are known to have wrecked<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. Hence, salvaging shipwrecked vessels became an<br />
important enterprise—especially on <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
This activity was known as wrecking or wracking and<br />
those who participated in it were wreckers.<br />
High elevations such as Blue Hills on <strong>the</strong> north side <strong>of</strong><br />
Providenciales and Birch’s Lookout were used by wreckers<br />
as lookout stations where <strong>the</strong>y would watch for ships<br />
foundering on nearby reefs. Blue Hills became known as<br />
<strong>the</strong> wrecking capital <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 59
Who inscribed <strong>the</strong> epitaph?<br />
On September 3 or 4, crew and passengers from <strong>the</strong><br />
Impulse went or were taken to Providenciales by a small<br />
boat from <strong>the</strong> Impulse or by a wrecker. It is unclear where<br />
<strong>the</strong>y were put ashore. The location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wreck had<br />
been vaguely described as “Caycas Reef” (sic) by Captain<br />
Eldridge and as “a reef <strong>of</strong>f Providence Caicos” by <strong>the</strong><br />
U.S. Consul John Arthur. The location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> inscription<br />
suggests <strong>the</strong> Impulse wrecked near West Harbour Bluff.<br />
Ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>ory suggests someone from <strong>the</strong> St. Louis went<br />
to West Harbour Bluff and chiseled <strong>the</strong> inscription because<br />
he could see <strong>the</strong> wreck <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Impulse from <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
Since wreckers typically operated from small sloops,<br />
it is unlikely that one would conduct salvage operations<br />
with <strong>the</strong> addition <strong>of</strong> 28 or more people from <strong>the</strong> Impulse<br />
on board. The crew and passengers from <strong>the</strong> St. Louis and<br />
Impulse would have remained on Providenciales until <strong>the</strong>y<br />
left for Grand Turk aboard a wrecker on September 7,<br />
giving someone from <strong>the</strong> St. Louis plenty <strong>of</strong> time to chisel<br />
“SHIP ST. LOUIS BURNT AT SEA IN 1842” on a rock on West<br />
Harbour Bluff. Of course, it’s possible that someone from<br />
<strong>the</strong> wrecker or a local resident carved <strong>the</strong> inscription. In<br />
spite <strong>of</strong> all that has been uncovered while researching<br />
this story, <strong>the</strong> answer to who authored <strong>the</strong> inscription<br />
remains a mystery.<br />
Protecting <strong>the</strong> historic site<br />
The entirety <strong>of</strong> West Harbour Bluff is within <strong>the</strong><br />
Frenchman’s Creek and Pigeon Pond Nature Reserve<br />
Sloops such as this were used by wreckers to salvage vessels wrecked<br />
on <strong>the</strong> reefs around <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. Note that <strong>the</strong>y were<br />
too small to take aboard an additional 28+ people from <strong>the</strong> St. Louis<br />
and Impulse.<br />
established by <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Trust. The<br />
Trust was established in 1992 to protect and safeguard<br />
<strong>the</strong> cultural, natural, and historical sites on <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
In addition to Frenchman’s Creek and Pigeon Pond<br />
Nature Reserve, o<strong>the</strong>r protected areas include several<br />
18th century Loyalist plantations, <strong>the</strong> caves on Middle<br />
Caicos, Bird Rock Point, Heaving Down Rock, Little Water<br />
Cay, and o<strong>the</strong>rs. Damaging or removing natural and historical<br />
features or objects from <strong>the</strong>se sites is prohibited.<br />
Deterioration and damage observed<br />
Unfortunately, over <strong>the</strong> years <strong>the</strong> inscriptions on West<br />
Harbour Bluff have shown signs <strong>of</strong> deterioration and dam-<br />
CHARLIE TODD<br />
The is a view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> West Harbour Bluff area looking to <strong>the</strong> east. The “St. Louis” inscription can be found to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cove. The area is<br />
protected within <strong>the</strong> Frenchman’s Creek and Pigeon Pond Nature Reserve.<br />
60 www.timespub.tc
TMW2022.qxp_Layout 1 3/2/22 3:41 PM Page 1<br />
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This aerial shot looks down on <strong>the</strong> popular “Split Rock” formation that<br />
is part <strong>of</strong> West Harbour Bluff, which itself is part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Frenchman’s<br />
Creek Nature Reserve. The area is frequented by pelicans, osprey,<br />
and herons.<br />
age—<strong>the</strong> missing letter “S” in “SHIP” and <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong><br />
graffiti are examples. Since <strong>the</strong>se rock formations are<br />
composed <strong>of</strong> calcium carbonate or limestone, depending<br />
on <strong>the</strong>ir age, <strong>the</strong>y are s<strong>of</strong>t and <strong>the</strong> inscriptions on <strong>the</strong>m<br />
are susceptible to damage by both wea<strong>the</strong>r and sightseers.<br />
It is hoped this story will serve to inform sightseers<br />
and tour operators <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> importance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> historic<br />
inscriptions on West Harbour Bluff and that visitors will<br />
endeavor to protect <strong>the</strong>m from fur<strong>the</strong>r damage and deterioration.<br />
a<br />
The author thanks Dr. Donald Keith <strong>of</strong> Ships <strong>of</strong> Discovery<br />
for <strong>the</strong> idea for this story as well as a copy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> consulate’s<br />
letter and log; Agile LeVin <strong>of</strong> VisitTCI.com; and<br />
Deborah Dodge for editing suggestions.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 61
esort report<br />
Opposite page: The 20 hotel rooms and 6 suites <strong>of</strong> Ocean Breeze Resort line each side <strong>of</strong> a center pool courtyard. All rooms overlook <strong>the</strong><br />
pool area.<br />
Above: Like North Caicos itself, Ocean Breeze Resort is a hidden gem, just right for a quiet get-away vacation.<br />
Designed to Be Different<br />
Ocean Breeze Resort, North Caicos<br />
By Jody Rathgeb ~ Photos By Tom Rathgeb<br />
If resorts could talk, most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m would say many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same things, touting <strong>the</strong>ir international flair,<br />
luxury settings and “perfection in paradise.” Ocean Breeze Resort speaks <strong>of</strong> something different. This new<br />
boutique resort in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos would say, simply, “This is North Caicos. Discover <strong>the</strong> difference.”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 63
The discovery will reveal a resort rooted in what is<br />
local: Built and owned by a North Caicos couple, its 26<br />
rooms and suites blend with <strong>the</strong> landscape. There’s an<br />
atmosphere as quiet and calm as <strong>the</strong> island itself, and a<br />
commitment to local hiring and support <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r island<br />
businesses.<br />
The local commitment does not skimp on amenities.<br />
Ocean Breeze includes a full-service restaurant, inner<br />
courtyard pool, spa services, conference room, and fitness<br />
center. The place is a seven-to-eight-minute walk<br />
from <strong>the</strong> beach and <strong>the</strong> resort will provide beach chairs<br />
and umbrellas. Car rental is easily available, along with<br />
concierge support in exploring all that North and Middle<br />
Caicos have to <strong>of</strong>fer.<br />
Grown on North Caicos<br />
The seed sprouted from local soil. Darville Handfield is<br />
a son <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island and his wife, Kadra Been-Handfield,<br />
comes from Salt Cay. Toge<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>the</strong> entrepreneurial couple<br />
own and run several businesses on North Caicos,<br />
including a water plant, auto parts store, liquor store,<br />
car rental, and small grocery. Kadra, who acts as <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
spokesperson, says <strong>the</strong> concept for <strong>the</strong> resort was<br />
“Darville’s idea. Seeing <strong>the</strong> growth <strong>of</strong> North Caicos, he<br />
thought having a property where people who need a little<br />
rest and getaway would be a good idea. He asked what<br />
I thought we should do.” She continues, “I didn’t answer<br />
right away,” noting that she already had a lot on her plate<br />
running three <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir existing businesses. “But <strong>the</strong>n I<br />
said, ‘If it’s your vision, I will support it.’”<br />
They began building in 2019 with architect Rico Smith<br />
and Darville leading a small construction crew. Instead<br />
<strong>of</strong> a sprawling, Provo-style resort, <strong>the</strong> plan was a place<br />
that would fit into <strong>the</strong> scale and natural beauty <strong>of</strong> North<br />
Caicos. Construction was to go building by building, in<br />
phases. Then came <strong>the</strong> pandemic. After a near full stop,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y continued slowly and <strong>the</strong> resort opened in December<br />
2023.<br />
The back-and-forth rhythm was reinforced by <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
individual strengths. Darville, acting as contractor, knew<br />
about fixtures and fittings; Kadra was very specific about<br />
style and design, choosing furniture, décor, and colors.<br />
(“Green for North Caicos, blue for our waters, gray as a<br />
soothing, calm base,” she says.)<br />
The hardest thing? “Finding locals as manpower, plus<br />
<strong>the</strong> cost <strong>of</strong> everything tripled during <strong>the</strong> pandemic,”<br />
Kadra replies. Their efforts were successful, however.<br />
When Ocean Breeze and its restaurant, Cilantros, opened,<br />
local people were very much a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> team, with<br />
Kendra Parker as manager and Deshonya Forbes at <strong>the</strong><br />
Visitors to Ocean Breeze Resort are greeted by a pleasant reception area and friendly staff, including (from left) Deshonya Forbes and Kendra<br />
Parker.<br />
64 www.timespub.tc
front desk; Aiesha Sealy and Romane<br />
Dwyer in <strong>the</strong> kitchen; Roshano Cox<br />
and Garnet Smith as bartenders; and<br />
local workers in security and managing<br />
housekeeping. “It’s a balance,”<br />
Kadra comments, adding that she<br />
prefers to hire locally in part because<br />
she dislikes <strong>the</strong> work permit process.<br />
She is looking to <strong>the</strong> future, too.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> spring, she hosted a field trip<br />
for local students interested in <strong>the</strong><br />
hospitality industry, giving <strong>the</strong>m a<br />
“backstage” look at operations. Some<br />
might use employment at <strong>the</strong>ir “backyard”<br />
resort to launch <strong>the</strong>ir careers.<br />
Getting it out <strong>the</strong>re<br />
Ocean Breeze has teamed up with<br />
a marketing company in <strong>the</strong> United<br />
States for visibility, but Kadra is also<br />
heavily involved in its promotion<br />
though its website oceanbreezeresorttci.com<br />
and social media. “We will<br />
venture out as it grows,” she says, but<br />
adds proudly, “The day we opened<br />
we had 75 percent occupancy.” She<br />
is emphasizing <strong>the</strong> getaway aspect<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> place, suggesting that people<br />
new to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> book about half<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir vacation at Ocean Breeze, enjoying<br />
quiet relaxation, and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
half on busy, go-go Provo. For local<br />
residents, <strong>the</strong>re are events such as a<br />
From top left: These images from Ocean Breeze hotel rooms and suites show <strong>the</strong> calming,<br />
graceful decor. The bathroom, living area, and well-equipped kitchen shown are typical <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
one- and two-bedroom suites, while <strong>the</strong> bedroom is typical <strong>of</strong> a hotel room.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 65
ladies’ movie night and special holiday<br />
dinners. In addition, corporate<br />
getaways are taking advantage <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
combination <strong>of</strong> an all-business conference<br />
room with do-your-own-thing<br />
social activities.<br />
Unlike some resorts that try<br />
to keep visitors within <strong>the</strong>ir compounds,<br />
Ocean Breeze encourages<br />
island exploration, which on North<br />
and Middle is rich in experiences.<br />
“They [guests] don’t need to have<br />
every meal here, when <strong>the</strong>re are o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
places to explore,” Kadra says. She<br />
even invites “competition,” hoping<br />
to see a revival <strong>of</strong> nearby St. Charles<br />
(which closed after hurricane damage)<br />
and renewed interest in Sandy<br />
Point in a more modest iteration than<br />
<strong>the</strong> erstwhile Royal Reef.<br />
The lowdown<br />
Single hotel rooms at Ocean Breeze<br />
(low to high season) cost $235 to<br />
$375 per night (two person occupancy),<br />
with double rooms $250 to<br />
$385. A one-bedroom suite runs<br />
$320 to $470 and a two-bedroom<br />
suite (with 1.5 bath) $470 to $630.<br />
There are also “Festive Season” rates<br />
(over Christmas and New Year) that<br />
are higher. All rates do not include a<br />
12 percent government tax, 10 percent<br />
service charge, and 5 percent<br />
resort fee, which will be added. a<br />
For more information and reservations,<br />
visit oceanbreezeresorttci.<br />
com or call (649) 946-7716.<br />
From top: Cilantros, <strong>the</strong> restaurant at Ocean<br />
Breeze Resort, <strong>of</strong>fers breakfast, lunch, and<br />
dinner, with fine dining options that feature<br />
local foods. Additional outside seating is<br />
adjacent to <strong>the</strong> pool courtyard.<br />
A dedicated conference room <strong>of</strong>fers video<br />
facilities and a whiteboard for brainstorming.<br />
66 www.timespub.tc
Grown on North Caicos<br />
Ocean Breeze Resort speaks <strong>of</strong> all things local, right down<br />
to its logo, which came from some home-grown talent.<br />
Co-owner Kadra Been-Handfield says that when it came<br />
to designing <strong>the</strong> logo that would be used as a lighted<br />
sign for <strong>the</strong> resort’s main building, she and her husband,<br />
Darville Handfield, kept to <strong>the</strong>ir pledge to keep things as<br />
local as possible.<br />
Instead <strong>of</strong> looking at design studios elsewhere, she<br />
went to <strong>the</strong> art class at Raymond Gardiner High School<br />
in Bottle Creek. “We asked <strong>the</strong> students for <strong>the</strong>ir designs<br />
and <strong>the</strong> teacher sent over <strong>the</strong> top four,” she says. The<br />
Handfields <strong>the</strong>n chose a winning design: that <strong>of</strong> student<br />
Divine Dorestin. “It was really no contest. We all picked<br />
<strong>the</strong> same one,” Kadra notes. Divine’s design now sits<br />
proudly on <strong>the</strong> building and in all marketing materials<br />
for <strong>the</strong> North Caicos resort.<br />
Photo artwork in <strong>the</strong> rooms was provided by Dedrick<br />
Handfield, bro<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong> co-owner Darville Handfield. Dedrick<br />
operates <strong>the</strong> One-Stop Sports Shop on North Caicos providing<br />
fishing and snorkeling tours. He shot <strong>the</strong> photos<br />
on North Caicos waters and Kadra Been-Handfield had <strong>the</strong><br />
photos printed on canvas.<br />
~ Jody Rathgeb<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 67
astrolabe<br />
newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Front Street, PO Box 188, Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, BWI TKCA 1ZZ<br />
tel 649 247 2160/US incoming 786 220 1159 • email info@tcmuseum.org • web www.tcmuseum.org<br />
As in o<strong>the</strong>r countries around <strong>the</strong> world, donkeys played an important role in <strong>the</strong> economy <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. When <strong>the</strong>ir usefullness<br />
ended, donkeys were turned loose to fend for <strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
Caring for Beasts <strong>of</strong> Burden<br />
Peaceful Valley Donkey Rescue films donkeys in TCI.<br />
Story & Photos By Mark S. and Amy Meyers<br />
Donkeys never asked to be brought to <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, <strong>the</strong> Far East, Europe, or even Australia. They were<br />
quite content living in Africa. Domesticated around 5000 BCE by <strong>the</strong> Egyptians and Mesopotamians, donkeys<br />
were quickly traded throughout <strong>the</strong> civilized world, extending as far east as Japan and as far north<br />
as Scandinavia.<br />
Donkeys first appeared in <strong>the</strong> Caribbean in 1493 on Christopher Columbus’ second voyage. They were<br />
originally brought to <strong>the</strong> island <strong>of</strong> Hispaniola—modern-day Haiti and <strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic—but were<br />
quickly taken to o<strong>the</strong>r islands. Donkeys were eventually sent over to Central and South America. In 1598<br />
<strong>the</strong>y crossed <strong>the</strong> Rio Grandé into what is today Texas with <strong>the</strong> Spanish explorer Juan de Oñate.<br />
68 www.timespub.tc
Donkeys possess several traits that made <strong>the</strong>m<br />
ideal for colonization. They could be transported long<br />
distances by ship with little to no visible hardship. They<br />
could (and still can) adapt to virtually any environment.<br />
Extreme heat has very little effect on <strong>the</strong>m as <strong>the</strong>y<br />
evolved in <strong>the</strong> deserts <strong>of</strong> Africa. They can also adapt to<br />
colder climates and higher elevations. Because <strong>the</strong>ir eyes<br />
are placed fur<strong>the</strong>r back on <strong>the</strong> sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir heads than<br />
horses, <strong>the</strong>y are more surefooted, especially on mountainous<br />
terrain. Donkeys can survive five days without<br />
water, lose considerable body weight due to dehydration,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>n gain it back at <strong>the</strong> next water source. Donkeys<br />
are highly intelligent, can learn multiple tasks, and served<br />
well in agriculture, mining, transportation, and <strong>the</strong> salt<br />
industry.<br />
Donkeys were also used during war times. They<br />
served virtually every human conflict across <strong>the</strong> globe.<br />
They were used in <strong>the</strong> transportation <strong>of</strong> wounded, resupplying<br />
<strong>of</strong> troops, and later in <strong>the</strong> support <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> signal<br />
corp. Donkeys’ ability to pull carts and wagons made<br />
<strong>the</strong>m extremely useful and if <strong>the</strong> route was redundant,<br />
<strong>the</strong> donkeys would <strong>of</strong>ten follow it repeatedly without<br />
needing to be led. Donkeys lost <strong>the</strong>ir usefulness after<br />
World War II when surplus army jeeps became cheap<br />
replacements. Donkeys were simply turned loose to fend<br />
for <strong>the</strong>mselves. The jeeps increased productivity, which<br />
in turn, increased wealth. Eventually this led to even better<br />
equipment prosperity. In <strong>the</strong> lower 48 United States,<br />
Hawaii, Australia, and throughout <strong>the</strong> Caribbean, donkeys<br />
were left to <strong>the</strong>ir own devices and in many cases<br />
<strong>the</strong>y thrived and became overpopulated.<br />
Donkeys were a common part <strong>of</strong> cultures in all parts<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world. At one point, China and Mexico had donkey<br />
populations that numbered millions. These populations<br />
became decimated with <strong>the</strong> growing popularity <strong>of</strong> a<br />
Chinese herbal remedy called Ejiao (pronounced eh-geeyow).<br />
Ejiao is derived from collagen found in donkey<br />
hides. It is estimated that 4.8 million donkeys are killed<br />
each year to support this industry. This number is unsustainable.<br />
On February 18, <strong>2024</strong>, <strong>the</strong> African Union voted<br />
to ban <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> all donkeys for slaughter.<br />
Many African countries had seen <strong>the</strong>ir donkey populations<br />
devastated by <strong>the</strong> hide trade. Countries like<br />
Botswana had <strong>the</strong>ir donkey population decreased by 70%<br />
from 2011–2021. Women and children were disproportionally<br />
affected as <strong>the</strong>y were <strong>the</strong> most dependent on<br />
In Grand Turk, donkeys pulled water delivery carts and were able to<br />
follow a daily route without being led.<br />
<strong>the</strong> donkeys to assist <strong>the</strong>ir daily work activities. Donkeys<br />
are a crucial part <strong>of</strong> Third World countries, especially in<br />
poverty-stricken areas where mechanized means <strong>of</strong> transportation<br />
and farming equipment are nonexistent.<br />
For <strong>the</strong> countries that do export donkey hides, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
are slaughtered and sold in lots <strong>of</strong> 1,700–2,000 hides per<br />
cargo container. The Chinese buyers have strict requirements<br />
on <strong>the</strong> abattoirs (slaughterhouses) that must be<br />
used. As a result, small populations <strong>of</strong> donkeys, like<br />
those found on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>, are not worth <strong>the</strong> attention<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hide buyers. In Australia, millions <strong>of</strong> donkeys were<br />
shot from helicopters. The Australian government could<br />
find no practical way to ga<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> donkeys, keep <strong>the</strong>m<br />
penned, process <strong>the</strong> hides, and ship <strong>the</strong>m at a pr<strong>of</strong>it.<br />
The Australian government also killed millions <strong>of</strong> horses,<br />
camels, and water buffalo. Before <strong>the</strong> pandemic, <strong>the</strong> big<br />
news was <strong>the</strong> devastating wildfires ravaging Australia due<br />
in part to <strong>the</strong> lack <strong>of</strong> herbivores keeping <strong>the</strong> vegetation in<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 69
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
A favorite place for donkeys to congregate is at <strong>the</strong> lighthouse tourist centre on Grand Turk.<br />
check. (You can learn more by viewing my film at withoutavoice.movie.)<br />
My wife Amy and I founded <strong>the</strong> Peaceful Valley<br />
Donkey Rescue (PVDR) in 2000. Amy had purchased a<br />
donkey, Izzy, as a companion to an old horse that we<br />
owned. Izzy was like nothing we had ever encountered.<br />
She was loving and funny and more like a big dog. Having<br />
Izzy made us more aware <strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r donkeys in our community—donkeys<br />
that weren’t as loving and sweet as our<br />
Izzy. Many <strong>of</strong> which had untreated medical issues.<br />
My wife, being <strong>the</strong> compassionate soul that she is,<br />
started purchasing <strong>the</strong>se donkeys and had <strong>the</strong>m delivered<br />
to our little farm. The vet would be called, and I<br />
would spend my evenings sitting and talking with <strong>the</strong><br />
donkeys. This continued until we had around 25 donkeys<br />
on our farm. That’s when I realized we needed a way to<br />
place <strong>the</strong> donkeys in homes but with rules to protect <strong>the</strong><br />
donkeys from falling into <strong>the</strong> wrong hands. That is how<br />
Peaceful Valley Donkey Rescue came into being.<br />
Peaceful Valley has grown from a backyard hobby<br />
into <strong>the</strong> largest equine rescue in <strong>the</strong> world, with opera-<br />
70 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Award-winning filmmaker Mark S. Meyers visited Grand Turk and Salt Cay in January <strong>2024</strong> to shoot <strong>the</strong> film “Donkeys <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.”<br />
tions in <strong>the</strong> lower 48 states, Hawaii, and <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.<br />
We operate three fully staffed Rescue/Rehabilitation facilities<br />
in Arizona, Virginia, and our Corporate Headquarters<br />
in Texas. Our Sanctuary Program houses between 1,500–<br />
2,000 donkeys on sanctuaries in Texas and Oklahoma.<br />
Our Adoption Program spans <strong>the</strong> entire country with volunteer-operated<br />
facilities in almost every state.<br />
PVDR works with federal, state, and county agencies<br />
to control donkey populations where <strong>the</strong>y are prohibited<br />
or have become a nuisance to <strong>the</strong> public. This includes<br />
national parks, military bases, nature preserves, and<br />
NASA installations. We have 60 employees based in five<br />
states and can respond to emergency calls anywhere in<br />
<strong>the</strong> United States within 24 hours. Peaceful Valley typically<br />
manages 3,000 donkeys at any given time.<br />
Peaceful Valley has worked with <strong>the</strong> donkeys on several<br />
islands. We’ve assisted with vaccine clinics, birth<br />
control, population assessments, and training <strong>of</strong> volunteers.<br />
We work with all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> top veterinary universities<br />
in <strong>the</strong> United States and have tremendous knowledge,<br />
experience, and resources that we can use to make <strong>the</strong><br />
lives <strong>of</strong> donkeys better.<br />
My film partner, Mike Brown, and I are currently working<br />
on a project entitled “Donkeys <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caribbean.” It<br />
was shot in January <strong>of</strong> <strong>2024</strong> and features several islands<br />
including Grand Turk and Salt Cay. We hope to have <strong>the</strong><br />
film ready for release by <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong> <strong>2024</strong>. You can<br />
follow <strong>the</strong> progress <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> film at caribbean.movie. The<br />
goal <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> film is to highlight <strong>the</strong> different challenges<br />
that donkeys face on <strong>the</strong> various islands throughout <strong>the</strong><br />
Caribbean. We hope to draw attention to <strong>the</strong>se challenges<br />
so that more resources can be brought in to improve <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
plight. At Peaceful Valley we have a saying, “Ei<strong>the</strong>r all donkeys<br />
matter, or none <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m do.” a<br />
Mark S. Meyers is <strong>the</strong> co-founder and executive director <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Peaceful Valley Donkey Rescue. Mark is a pr<strong>of</strong>essional<br />
photographer with dozens <strong>of</strong> his photographs published<br />
in national magazines, an award-winning filmmaker, and<br />
an author with six books to his credit. He has been featured<br />
both nationally and internationally in print news,<br />
television, radio, podcasts, and appeared in National<br />
Geographic. Mark was honored to be a 2019 CNN Top<br />
Ten Hero.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 71
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
SHUTTERSTOCK<br />
Built in 1852, <strong>the</strong> lighthouse is Grand Turk’s most famous landmark. After many ships wrecked <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn coast <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong><br />
lighthouse was built to aid in navigation.<br />
Run Aground<br />
Shipwrecks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>–The Turks <strong>Islands</strong> (1500 – 1800)<br />
By James Jenney, The Bahamas Lost Ship Project<br />
Over <strong>the</strong> years <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> have been written about in many ways, most associated with<br />
tourism and <strong>the</strong> pristine beauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tropical islands which Nor<strong>the</strong>rners would rightly call a paradise.<br />
But what <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and <strong>the</strong>ir unique history?<br />
In terms <strong>of</strong> a European presence, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> were initially populated only on a seasonal basis and for<br />
<strong>the</strong> specific purpose <strong>of</strong> ga<strong>the</strong>ring salt, a commodity that built a solid foundation for what would become a<br />
permanent colony and later a country. This is <strong>the</strong> first <strong>of</strong> a series <strong>of</strong> articles which will look at <strong>the</strong> history<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos with a singular focus on its maritime history.<br />
72 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
As more vessels came from all parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> world for<br />
salt and for o<strong>the</strong>r reasons, more shipwrecks occurred.<br />
Given that <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are remote and<br />
that it was nearly two centuries before <strong>the</strong> first regular<br />
newspaper was introduced here, it is understandable that<br />
information about maritime disasters was hard to come<br />
by and <strong>of</strong>ten incomplete or even missing.<br />
It is principally for <strong>the</strong>se reasons that, particularly in<br />
<strong>the</strong> earlier years, many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lost vessels were reported<br />
without even a record <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessel’s name, let alone<br />
details <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> disaster. Although it would be most desirable<br />
to be able to identify by name each lost ship, that is<br />
not possible, even though all sources <strong>of</strong> information have<br />
been pursued.<br />
The short abstracts <strong>of</strong> each loss (sometimes multiple<br />
losses) are detailed using <strong>the</strong> reports <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> time when<br />
<strong>the</strong>se have been discovered. Italics indicate <strong>the</strong> original<br />
news reports and will include misspellings and sometimes<br />
even errors in details <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> loss. Where a date is shown in<br />
italics, <strong>the</strong> actual date is not known. What appears is <strong>the</strong><br />
date <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> reporting <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wreck.<br />
The data is by no means a complete listing <strong>of</strong> all <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> wrecks in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. That is an ongoing<br />
study. What is presented is <strong>the</strong> only listing <strong>of</strong> wrecks<br />
in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> that has been researched and published.<br />
The series will be presented in two main parts, with<br />
<strong>the</strong> first documenting <strong>the</strong> wrecks in <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong><br />
followed by those in <strong>the</strong> waters <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
With <strong>the</strong>se words <strong>of</strong> explanation, let us start <strong>the</strong> story <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> maritime history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> at <strong>the</strong><br />
beginning.<br />
August, 1500 — UNIDENTIFIED x 2<br />
A fleet <strong>of</strong> explorers destined for <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn coast <strong>of</strong><br />
South America was made up <strong>of</strong> four caravels under <strong>the</strong><br />
command <strong>of</strong> Vincent Yanez Pinzon. In <strong>the</strong> summer <strong>of</strong><br />
1500, two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessels were caught in a hurricane and<br />
lost. Although <strong>the</strong>re are different opinions about where<br />
<strong>the</strong>se wrecks occurred, one possible location <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> loss<br />
was on a shoal called Abrajos (actually Abre los ojos which<br />
translates in English to “Open Your Eyes”—undoubtedly<br />
to advise mariners <strong>of</strong> its dangerous location). The shoal<br />
is also known as Mouchoir Carre Bank (which translates<br />
to “Square Handkerchief,” ano<strong>the</strong>r name <strong>of</strong>ten associated<br />
with shipwrecks). The shoal lies 45 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast from<br />
Grand Turk Island.<br />
July 10, 1715 — UNIDENTIFIED x 6<br />
Twenty-one days before <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Spanish treasure<br />
fleet <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Florida, ano<strong>the</strong>r fleet—this one from<br />
Bermuda—met with a similar fate on Turks Island due<br />
to a storm. According to a news report in <strong>the</strong> Boston<br />
News-Letter <strong>of</strong> August 29, “ . . . we are informed that in<br />
<strong>the</strong> great storm about <strong>the</strong> 10th <strong>of</strong> July last, <strong>the</strong>re were<br />
six Bermuda sloops cast away on Turks Island. The men<br />
were all saved except one little boy . . . a seventh sloop<br />
got away from amongst <strong>the</strong> rocks with great difficulty by<br />
cutting her cable and came safe to Bermuda and gave<br />
account <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rest that was lost.” It is probable that <strong>the</strong><br />
sloops traveled from Bermuda to Turks Island for a cargo<br />
<strong>of</strong> salt but <strong>the</strong>y were also known to travel here for “wrecking.”<br />
March 15, 1735 — UNIDENTIFIED<br />
The loss <strong>of</strong> a brigantine near Turks Island made it into a<br />
Boston newspaper only because one captain Dyer mentioned<br />
it in a letter to a friend. In part, his letter read, “a<br />
wreck had been discovered near Turks Island about <strong>the</strong><br />
middle <strong>of</strong> March last, where <strong>the</strong>re was drove on shore a<br />
large quantity <strong>of</strong> boards, <strong>the</strong> mainmast <strong>of</strong> a brigantine,<br />
and two hen-coops newly painted.” The letter was sent<br />
while <strong>the</strong> captain was in Jamaica in early June.<br />
September 13, 1747 — UNIDENTIFIED<br />
A merchant brig under <strong>the</strong> command <strong>of</strong> Capt. Elberson<br />
was lost on this date in a hurricane that struck Turks<br />
Island. Most likely she was headed <strong>the</strong>re to procure a<br />
cargo <strong>of</strong> salt when lost. The exact location <strong>of</strong> this wreck<br />
is unknown.<br />
July 4, 1764 — LA-BOINARD<br />
On June 1, 1764 French forces attacked <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong><br />
and made prisoners <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> British subjects living <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
According to Lloyd’s List, a few weeks later on July 4, this<br />
French ship was lost on Turks Island. The two incidents<br />
could be connected but <strong>the</strong>re is no evidence <strong>of</strong> that.<br />
August, 1765 — UNIDENTIFIED<br />
One Captain Yorke, enroute from Jamaica, passed <strong>the</strong> brig<br />
Francis. Captain Brownlaw, travelling from Turks Island to<br />
Philadelphia advised, “that a sloop, Captain Russ, from<br />
North Carolina, was lost at Turks Island, <strong>the</strong> latter end <strong>of</strong><br />
August; her rigging and cargo were saved.”<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 73
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
May 29, 1785 — DELIGHT<br />
On June 17, 1785 <strong>the</strong> following appeared in Thomas<br />
Allen’s Marine List, “Arrived at this port, brig Three<br />
Bro<strong>the</strong>rs, Briggs, from Cape Francois and Turks Island<br />
. . . who advises that <strong>the</strong> 29th May he took on board<br />
<strong>the</strong> captain and crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sloop Delight, Mills, master,<br />
belonging to New Haven, who was stranded on <strong>the</strong> reef<br />
<strong>of</strong>f Turks Island.”<br />
March 6, 1786 — PORGEY<br />
An extract from a letter from Charleston, SC written to<br />
a friend <strong>of</strong> or to <strong>the</strong> editor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pennsylvania Packet<br />
newspaper in Philadelphia reads, “March 6. The brig<br />
Porgey, Captain Dickenson, which sailed from New York<br />
for Jamaica, is lost on Turks Island. The crew were saved,<br />
and are arrived at Bermuda.”<br />
June 10, 1786 — EAGLE<br />
The following is an extract <strong>of</strong> a letter dated June 14, 1786<br />
from a passenger aboard <strong>the</strong> brig Eagle, when she was<br />
lost, “On <strong>the</strong> 10th instant, going through <strong>the</strong> passage <strong>of</strong><br />
Turks Island with everything we could wish favorable for<br />
that event, at about seven o’clock in <strong>the</strong> evening, without<br />
any <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> least appearance <strong>of</strong> ground, struck and <strong>the</strong><br />
vessel was dashed to pieces next morning.”<br />
November 16, 1786 — SWALLOW<br />
Two months after her loss, <strong>the</strong> following report appeared<br />
in a Philadelphia newspaper early in 1787: “ . . . <strong>the</strong> ship<br />
Swallow, Capt. Stephen Flandrin, from this port, bound<br />
to [Cape Francois], was totally lost on <strong>the</strong> Boralla Banks,<br />
a reef <strong>of</strong> rocks called <strong>the</strong> Square Handkerchief, about 15<br />
leagues to <strong>the</strong> eastward <strong>of</strong> Turks Island, and 40 from <strong>the</strong><br />
Cape.”<br />
January 23, 1787 — SALLY<br />
A search <strong>of</strong> records has determined that <strong>the</strong> ship Sally<br />
arrived in Kingston, Jamaica on or before September 26,<br />
1786. She cleared from that port bound for Baltimore, MD<br />
sometime between November 3 and 10 and was lost on<br />
Turks Island soon after that.<br />
November 23, 1789 — UNION<br />
Captain Christopher Prince left New York in <strong>the</strong> brigantine<br />
Union and turned southward for Port-au-Prince,<br />
Haiti. Less than two weeks later, on November 23, she<br />
ran aground at Turks Island while sailing at night. Exactly<br />
where <strong>the</strong> vessel came ashore is not stated but it is possible<br />
that she struck on <strong>the</strong> extensive reef <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
end <strong>of</strong> Grand Turk.<br />
January 30, 1790 — UNIDENTIFIED<br />
A letter from Grand Caicos was sent to a gentleman in New<br />
Providence [Nassau] dated January 30 which mentioned<br />
<strong>the</strong> following information relative to an UNIDENTIFIED<br />
wreck near Turks Island, “A sloop with lumber was lately<br />
wrecked near Turks Island. The cargo was saved by people<br />
from Turks Island . . . <strong>the</strong> crew must have perished.”<br />
August 28, 1790 — HMS ENDYMION<br />
The 5th rate ship HMS Endymion enroute from Jamaica<br />
to Turks Island with cannon and o<strong>the</strong>r stores had bad<br />
luck and good luck on her voyage. Passing through <strong>the</strong><br />
Windward Passage, north bound, she was travelling in<br />
fair wea<strong>the</strong>r though <strong>the</strong> seas were reported high with a<br />
moderate wind. Without warning she struck a rocky shoal<br />
where <strong>the</strong> charts indicated <strong>the</strong>re would be no problem.<br />
This became a serious situation since <strong>the</strong> stranded ship<br />
was seven miles from shore. But good fortune shined on<br />
<strong>the</strong> crew as <strong>the</strong> schooner New Hope from Philadelphia<br />
spotted her distress and in short order rescued all aboard<br />
and brought <strong>the</strong>m to Turks Island. The master stayed on<br />
<strong>the</strong> island with a portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crew and attempted salvage<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ship but to no avail.<br />
September 27, 1790 — FAME<br />
Sometime prior to September 27, 1790 a southbound<br />
brig carrying cargo from St. John, New Brunswick to<br />
Jamaica ran into trouble in <strong>the</strong> vicinity <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. A single news report reads as follows,<br />
“The brig Fame, Bowden is totally lost on Turks Island on<br />
her passage to Jamaica, from St. John’s, New Brunswick.”<br />
October 25, 1791 — DARTMOUTH<br />
On October 1, 1791, Captain Abraham Kimm advertised<br />
in <strong>the</strong> New York Daily Gazette that his brig Darmouth<br />
would sail on or before <strong>the</strong> 20th for Kingston, Jamaica. He<br />
apparently already had his cargo planned and was looking<br />
to attract some passengers. Whe<strong>the</strong>r or not any made<br />
<strong>the</strong> trip is not known. His ship ran hard aground on <strong>the</strong><br />
nor<strong>the</strong>ast reef <strong>of</strong> Turks Island. It was reported that <strong>the</strong><br />
crew and at least part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cargo was saved.<br />
74 www.timespub.tc
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
ISTOCK<br />
June 28, 1796 —<br />
UNIDENTIFIED<br />
A French squadron arriving<br />
at Brest, France related that<br />
during a cruise <strong>the</strong>y had<br />
captured three British transports<br />
and a Portuguese<br />
vessel, all <strong>of</strong> which <strong>the</strong>y<br />
destroyed. They also captured<br />
an UNIDENTIFIED<br />
Bermudian sloop carrying<br />
dispatches to Barbados.<br />
Since <strong>the</strong>se sloops had a<br />
reputation as being very fast<br />
sailing vessels <strong>the</strong> French<br />
manned and planned to<br />
send her to Cape Francois.<br />
She ran on <strong>the</strong> Abrolha<br />
Bank and was lost.<br />
October 25, 1791 — MARY<br />
Word <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> brig Mary came from news<br />
reported at her port <strong>of</strong> destination. The report read,<br />
“Montego Bay, Nov. 26. The Mary, Telford, from New York<br />
to this port, on <strong>the</strong> 25th ult. at 5 o’clock A.M. struck on<br />
<strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>ast reef <strong>of</strong> Turk Island, and beat to pieces; <strong>the</strong><br />
cargo is entirely lost.”<br />
October 19, 1792 — FELICITY<br />
A shortcoming to <strong>the</strong> reports from Lloyds List is that<br />
<strong>the</strong>y don’t provide much, if any, detail. Their report with<br />
regard to <strong>the</strong> Felicity is no more than, “The Felicity, Doty,<br />
from New Brunswick, is lost near Turks Island.” Given <strong>the</strong><br />
time for communication across <strong>the</strong> Atlantic during this<br />
period, it could be assumed that <strong>the</strong> actual disaster took<br />
place two months or more before <strong>the</strong> release <strong>of</strong> this edition.<br />
August 15, 1793 — UNIDENTIFIED<br />
In an extract from a letter from <strong>the</strong> Caicos dated August<br />
26, “An American vessel which arrived a few days since at<br />
Turk’s Island [had met up with] <strong>the</strong> French ship America<br />
<strong>of</strong> 74 guns, bound from <strong>the</strong> Cape [Cape Francois, Santo<br />
Domingo] to France [who advised that] a Spanish vessel<br />
UNIDENTIFIED was wrecked on Turks <strong>Islands</strong> during <strong>the</strong><br />
gale, and <strong>the</strong> captain with two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crew drowned.”<br />
December 24, 1797 — ALICE<br />
Six weeks after her loss, <strong>the</strong> following news report<br />
appeared in a Philadelphia newspaper, “Captain Allen <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> ship Flora, brought in <strong>the</strong> captain and crew <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
schooner Alice, <strong>of</strong> Richmond (Virg.) Daniel Bale, master,<br />
which was wrecked on a reef <strong>of</strong>f Turks Island, on <strong>the</strong><br />
24th December, on her passage from Martinique to Turks<br />
Island – vessel entirely lost, crew saved.”<br />
September 3, 1800 — NEUTRALITY<br />
The schooner Two Friends, Capt. Williams, set sail from<br />
Jamaica on September 5 headed northward for New<br />
York City. A person who arrived at Jamaica before Capt.<br />
Williams left brought news that <strong>the</strong> brig Neutrality was<br />
cast away on Turks Island on her outward-bound passage.<br />
a<br />
James Jenney is <strong>the</strong> director <strong>of</strong> research for <strong>the</strong> Bahamas<br />
Lost Ships Project, which is working in collaboration with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Bahamas Maritime Museum and Carl Allen <strong>of</strong> Allen<br />
Explorations. For more information, visit https://www.<br />
bahamasmaritimemuseum.com.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 75
astrolabe newsletter <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos National Museum<br />
Museum Matters<br />
Grub, Grill, & Good <strong>Times</strong> Event <strong>2024</strong><br />
The museum’s Grand Turk location will again be hosting<br />
our Grub, Grill, and Good <strong>Times</strong> event on Saturday,<br />
July 13, <strong>2024</strong>. This event highlights local cuisine and<br />
music, featuring a live band and local vendors. This<br />
is our main fundraiser for <strong>the</strong> year and has been very<br />
successful.<br />
As part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> event we also <strong>of</strong>fer a raffle. Tickets<br />
are $5 each and we have some fantastic prizes that<br />
are donated from local businesses and individuals.<br />
Prizes include restaurant gift certificates, boat charters,<br />
CASH, and more. Check our Facebook page for<br />
an updated list <strong>of</strong> prizes. a<br />
Culture & Heritage Quiz <strong>2024</strong><br />
Prior to COVID-19, <strong>the</strong> museum always held an annual<br />
history and cultural quiz. This year <strong>the</strong> quiz returned<br />
and was sponsored by <strong>the</strong> TCI Ministry <strong>of</strong> Education,<br />
Department <strong>of</strong> Culture and Heritage, and <strong>the</strong> National<br />
Museum. We were delighted to work with <strong>the</strong> governmental<br />
departments to bring this event back.<br />
Schools from across <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> competed to showcase<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir knowledge <strong>of</strong> local history and heritage.<br />
Congratulations to all 19 schools that participated. a<br />
Children’s Club<br />
We have held several “Learn to Paint” classes this year.<br />
These have become very popular with <strong>the</strong> children<br />
and we plan to continue hosting <strong>the</strong>m as part <strong>of</strong> our<br />
Children’s Club. The Turks Head Cactus and a Map <strong>of</strong><br />
Grand Turk were some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> recent projects with artist<br />
Aysha Stephen teaching <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> strokes.<br />
The Children’s Club is fully funded by sales <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
Where is Simon, Sandy? and Satchi and Little Star<br />
books authored by Donna Seim. The museum is thankful<br />
for Ms. Seim’s donation from <strong>the</strong> sales so that we<br />
can <strong>of</strong>fer <strong>the</strong>se fun and educational projects to <strong>the</strong><br />
children. a<br />
Current days & hours <strong>of</strong> operation:<br />
Grand Turk (Front Street): Hours vary daily, but in general<br />
open on all cruise ship days 9 AM to 1 PM. When<br />
a ship arrives on or after 9 AM, we will open one hour<br />
after arrival for three hours.<br />
Providenciales (The Village at Grace Bay): Open<br />
Tuesday and Thursday, 10 AM to 2 PM.<br />
Both locations include interesting exhibits and artifacts<br />
related to <strong>the</strong> history and culture <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Visit our gift shops for souvenirs, history books, and<br />
locally made products such as baskets, jewelry, salt<br />
products, and more.<br />
Days and times <strong>of</strong> operation are subject to change,<br />
so please check our website or email us for updated<br />
information:<br />
www.tcmuseum.org<br />
info@tcmuseum.org<br />
76 www.timespub.tc
about <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong><br />
Map provided courtesy Wavey Line Publishing. Their navigation charts and decorative and historic maps <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>, The<br />
Bahamas and Hispaniola are available in shops throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Visit www.amnautical.com.<br />
Where we are<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> lie some 575 miles sou<strong>the</strong>ast<br />
<strong>of</strong> Miami — approximately 1 1/2 hours flying time —<br />
with The Bahamas about 30 miles to <strong>the</strong> northwest and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Dominican Republic some 100 miles to <strong>the</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>ast.<br />
The country consists <strong>of</strong> two island groups separated<br />
by <strong>the</strong> 22-mile wide Columbus Passage. To <strong>the</strong> west are<br />
<strong>the</strong> Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>: West Caicos, Providenciales, North<br />
Caicos, Middle Caicos, East Caicos and South Caicos. To<br />
<strong>the</strong> east are <strong>the</strong> Turks <strong>Islands</strong>: Grand Turk and Salt Cay.<br />
The Turks & Caicos total 166 square miles <strong>of</strong> land<br />
area on eight islands and 40 small cays. The country’s<br />
population is approximately 43,000.<br />
Getting here<br />
There are international airports on Grand Turk,<br />
Providenciales, and South Caicos, with domestic airports<br />
on all <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> islands except East Caicos.<br />
As <strong>of</strong> April 1, 2023, all COVID-19 related travel<br />
restrictions have been removed for travel to <strong>the</strong> Turks &<br />
Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>. There is no vaccine, testing, or insurance<br />
requirement. On August 12, 2022, <strong>the</strong> last day <strong>of</strong> statistics,<br />
32,338 people were vaccinated in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos<br />
against COVID-19 (at least one dose). This was approximately<br />
73% <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> total population. For more information<br />
and details, visit www.visittci.com.<br />
Language<br />
English.<br />
<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 77
Time zone<br />
Eastern Standard Time (EST)/Daylight Savings Time<br />
observed.<br />
Currency<br />
The United States dollar. The Treasury also issues a Turks<br />
& Caicos crown and quarter. Travellers cheques in U.S.<br />
dollars are widely accepted and o<strong>the</strong>r currency can be<br />
changed at local banks. American Express, VISA and<br />
MasterCard are welcomed at many locations.<br />
Climate<br />
The average year-round temperature is 83ºF (28ºC). The<br />
hottest months are September and October, when <strong>the</strong><br />
temperature can reach 90 to 95ºF (33 to 35ºC). However,<br />
<strong>the</strong> consistent easterly trade winds temper <strong>the</strong> heat and<br />
keep life comfortable.<br />
Casual resort and leisure wear is accepted attire for<br />
daytime; light sweaters or jackets may be necessary on<br />
some breezy evenings. It’s wise to wear protective clothing<br />
and a sunhat and use waterpro<strong>of</strong> sunscreen when out<br />
in <strong>the</strong> tropical sun.<br />
Entry requirements<br />
Passport. A valid onward or return ticket is also required.<br />
Customs formalities<br />
Visitors may bring in duty free for <strong>the</strong>ir own use one carton<br />
<strong>of</strong> cigarettes or cigars, one bottle <strong>of</strong> liquor or wine,<br />
and some perfume. The importation <strong>of</strong> all firearms including<br />
those charged with compressed air without prior<br />
approval in writing from <strong>the</strong> Commissioner <strong>of</strong> Police is<br />
strictly forbidden. Spear guns, Hawaiian slings, controlled<br />
drugs and pornography are also illegal.<br />
Returning residents may bring in $400 worth <strong>of</strong><br />
merchandise per person duty free. A duty <strong>of</strong> 10% to<br />
60% is charged on most imported goods along with a<br />
7% customs processing fee and forms a major source <strong>of</strong><br />
government revenue.<br />
Transportation<br />
A valid driver’s license from home is suitable when renting<br />
vehicles. A government tax <strong>of</strong> 12% is levied on all rental<br />
contracts. (Insurance is extra.) Driving is on <strong>the</strong> left-hand<br />
side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road, with traffic flow controlled by roundabouts<br />
at major junctions. Taxis and community cabs are<br />
abundant throughout <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> and many resorts <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
shuttle service between popular visitor areas. Scooter,<br />
motorcycle and bicycle rentals are also available.<br />
Telecommunications<br />
FLOW Ltd. provides land lines and superfast broadband<br />
Internet service. Mobile service is on a LTE 4G network,<br />
including pre- and post-paid cellular phones. Most resorts<br />
and some stores and restaurants <strong>of</strong>fer wireless Internet<br />
connections. Digicel operates mobile networks, with<br />
a full suite <strong>of</strong> LTE 4G service. FLOW is <strong>the</strong> local carrier<br />
for CDMA roaming on US networks such as Verizon and<br />
Sprint. North American visitors with GSM cellular handsets<br />
and wireless accounts with AT&T or Cingular can<br />
arrange international roaming.<br />
Electricity<br />
FortisTCI supplies electricity at a frequency <strong>of</strong> 60HZ,<br />
78 www.timespub.tc
and ei<strong>the</strong>r single phase or three phase at one <strong>of</strong> three<br />
standard voltages for residential or commercial service.<br />
FortisTCI continues to invest in a robust and resilient grid<br />
to ensure <strong>the</strong> highest level <strong>of</strong> reliability to customers. The<br />
company is integrating renewable energy into its grid and<br />
provides options for customers to participate in two solar<br />
energy programs.<br />
Departure tax<br />
US $35. It is typically included in your airline ticket cost.<br />
Courier service<br />
Delivery service is provided by FedEx, with <strong>of</strong>fices on<br />
Providenciales and Grand Turk, and DHL. UPS service is<br />
limited to incoming delivery.<br />
Postal service<br />
The Post Office and Philatelic Bureau in Providenciales are<br />
located downtown on Airport Road. In Grand Turk, <strong>the</strong><br />
Post Office and Philatelic Bureau are on Church Folly. The<br />
<strong>Islands</strong> are known for <strong>the</strong>ir colorful stamp issues.<br />
Media<br />
Multi-channel satellite television is received from <strong>the</strong> U.S.<br />
and Canada and transmitted via cable or Internet. Local<br />
station WIV-TV broadcasts on Channel 4 and Island EyeTV<br />
on Channel 5. There are a number <strong>of</strong> local radio stations,<br />
magazines and newspapers.<br />
Medical services<br />
There are no endemic tropical diseases in TCI. There are<br />
large, modern hospitals on Grand Turk and Providenciales.<br />
Both hospitals <strong>of</strong>fer a full range <strong>of</strong> services including:<br />
24/7 emergency room, operating <strong>the</strong>aters, diagnostic<br />
imaging, maternity suites, dialysis suites, blood bank,<br />
physio<strong>the</strong>rapy and dentistry.<br />
In addition, several general practitioners operate in<br />
<strong>the</strong> country, and <strong>the</strong>re is a recompression chamber, along<br />
with a number <strong>of</strong> private pharmacies.<br />
Immigration<br />
A resident’s permit is required to live in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. A<br />
work permit and business license are also required to<br />
work and/or establish a business. These are generally<br />
granted to those <strong>of</strong>fering skills, experience and qualifications<br />
not widely available on <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong>. Priority is given<br />
to enterprises that will provide employment and training<br />
for Turks & Caicos Islanders.<br />
SEE<br />
THE<br />
DIFFERENCE<br />
OPHTHALMOLOGY CLINIC<br />
Ophthalmologist Dr. Sebastian Guzman is now available<br />
for consultation in <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong>.<br />
Dr. Guzman and his team are a group <strong>of</strong> doctors<br />
representing three generations <strong>of</strong> ophthalmologists.<br />
They specialize in <strong>the</strong> diagnosis and treatment <strong>of</strong> eye<br />
diseases and those linked to <strong>the</strong> throat, nose, and<br />
ears. At MD OJOS, we have our own equipment,<br />
with all <strong>the</strong> advantages <strong>of</strong> a private clinic. We <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
a fast, complete, and comprehensive response to our<br />
patients. We are trained in <strong>the</strong> application <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
latest technological advances for <strong>the</strong> correction <strong>of</strong><br />
different visual dysfunctions.<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 79
Government/Legal system<br />
TCI is a British Crown colony. There is a Queen-appointed<br />
governor HE Dileeni Daniel-Selvaratnam. She presides<br />
over an executive council formed by <strong>the</strong> elected local government.<br />
Hon. Charles Washington Misick is <strong>the</strong> country’s<br />
premier, leading a majority Progressive National Party<br />
(PNP) House <strong>of</strong> Assembly.<br />
The legal system is based on English Common Law<br />
and administered by a resident Chief Justice, Chief<br />
Magistrate, and Deputy Magistrates. Judges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Court<br />
<strong>of</strong> Appeal visit <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> twice a year and <strong>the</strong>re is a final<br />
Right <strong>of</strong> Appeal to Her Majesty’s Privy Council in London.<br />
Taxes<br />
There are currently no direct taxes on ei<strong>the</strong>r income<br />
or capital for individuals or companies. There are no<br />
exchange controls. Indirect taxation comprises customs<br />
duties and fees, stamp duty, taxes on accommodations,<br />
restaurants, vehicle rentals, o<strong>the</strong>r services and gasoline,<br />
as well as business license fees and departure taxes.<br />
Economy<br />
Historically, TCI’s economy relied on <strong>the</strong> export <strong>of</strong> salt.<br />
Currently, tourism, <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore finance industry and fishing<br />
generate <strong>the</strong> most private sector income. The <strong>Islands</strong>’<br />
main exports are lobster and conch. Practically all consumer<br />
goods and foodstuffs are imported.<br />
The Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are recognised as an<br />
important <strong>of</strong>fshore financial centre, <strong>of</strong>fering services<br />
such as company formation, <strong>of</strong>fshore insurance, banking,<br />
trusts, limited partnerships and limited life companies.<br />
The Financial Services Commission regulates <strong>the</strong> industry<br />
and spearheads <strong>the</strong> development <strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong>fshore legislation.<br />
People<br />
Citizens <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turks & Caicos <strong>Islands</strong> are termed<br />
“Belongers” and are primarily descendants <strong>of</strong> African<br />
slaves who were brought to <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> to work in <strong>the</strong><br />
salt ponds and cotton plantations. The country’s large<br />
expatriate population includes Canadians, Americans,<br />
Brits and Europeans, along with Haitians, Jamaicans,<br />
Dominicans, Bahamians, Indians and Filipinos.<br />
Churches<br />
Churches are <strong>the</strong> center <strong>of</strong> community life and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
are many faiths represented in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> including:<br />
Adventist, Anglican, Assembly <strong>of</strong> God, Baha’i, Baptist,<br />
Catholic, Church <strong>of</strong> God, Episcopal, Jehovah’s Witnesses,<br />
Methodist and Pentecostal. Visitors are always welcome.<br />
Pets<br />
Incoming pets must have an import permit, veterinary<br />
health certificate, vaccination certificate and lab test<br />
results submitted at port <strong>of</strong> entry to obtain clearance<br />
from <strong>the</strong> TCI Department <strong>of</strong> Agriculture.<br />
National symbols<br />
The National Bird is <strong>the</strong> Brown pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis).<br />
The National Plant is Island hea<strong>the</strong>r (Limonium<br />
bahamense) found nowhere else in <strong>the</strong> world. The<br />
National Tree is <strong>the</strong> Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea var.<br />
bahamensis). The National Costume consists <strong>of</strong> white cotton<br />
dresses tied at <strong>the</strong> waist for women and simple shirts<br />
and loose pants for men, with straw hats. Colors representing<br />
<strong>the</strong> various islands are displayed on <strong>the</strong> sleeves,<br />
sashes and hat bands. The National Song is “This Land<br />
<strong>of</strong> Ours” by <strong>the</strong> late Rev. E.C. Howell. Peas and Hominy<br />
80 www.timespub.tc
(Grits) with Dry Conch is revered as symbolic island fare.<br />
Going green<br />
TCI Waste Disposal Services currently <strong>of</strong>fers recycling<br />
services through weekly collection <strong>of</strong> recyclable aluminum,<br />
glass and plastic. Single-use plastic bags have been<br />
banned country-wide as <strong>of</strong> May 1, 2019. There is also a<br />
ban on importation <strong>of</strong> plastic straws and some polystyrene<br />
products, including cups and plates.<br />
Recreation<br />
Sporting activities are centered around <strong>the</strong> water. Visitors<br />
can choose from deep-sea, reef or bonefishing, sailing,<br />
glass-bottom boat and semi-sub excursions, windsurfing,<br />
waterskiing, parasailing, sea kayaking, snorkelling, scuba<br />
diving, snuba, kiteboarding, stand up paddleboarding,<br />
mermaid encounters and beachcombing. Pristine reefs,<br />
abundant marine life and excellent visibility make TCI<br />
a world-class diving destination. Whale and dolphin<br />
encounters are possible, especially during <strong>the</strong> winter/<br />
spring months.<br />
Tennis and golf—<strong>the</strong>re is an 18 hole championship<br />
course on Providenciales—are also popular.<br />
The <strong>Islands</strong> are an ecotourist’s paradise. Visitors can<br />
enjoy unspoilt wilderness and native flora and fauna in<br />
subscription form<br />
TIMES<br />
OF THE<br />
ISLANDS<br />
SAMPLING THE SOUL OF THE TURKS & CAICOS ISLANDS<br />
One year subscription<br />
$28 U.S. addresses/$32 non-U.S. addresses<br />
33 national parks, nature reserves, sanctuaries and areas<br />
<strong>of</strong> historical interest. The National Trust provides trail<br />
guides to several hiking trails, as well as guided tours <strong>of</strong><br />
major historical sites. Birdwatching is superb, and <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is a guided trail on Grand Turk.<br />
There is an excellent national museum on Grand<br />
Turk, with an auxillary branch on Providenciales that<br />
includes <strong>the</strong> Caicos Heritage House. A scheduled ferry<br />
and a selection <strong>of</strong> tour operators make it easy to take day<br />
trips to <strong>the</strong> outer islands.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r land-based activities include bicycling, horseback<br />
riding and football (soccer). Personal trainers are<br />
available to motivate you, working out <strong>of</strong> several fitness<br />
centres. You will also find a variety <strong>of</strong> spa and body treatment<br />
services.<br />
Nightlife includes local bands playing island music<br />
at bars and restaurants and some nightclubs. There are<br />
two casinos on Providenciales, along with many electronic<br />
gaming parlours. Stargazing is extraordinary!<br />
Shoppers will find paintings, T-shirts, sports and<br />
beachwear and locally made handicrafts, including straw<br />
work, conch crafts and beach jewellery. Duty free outlets<br />
sell liquor, jewellery, watches, perfume, lea<strong>the</strong>r goods,<br />
crystal, china, cameras, electronics, brand-name clothing<br />
and accessories, along with Cuban cigars. a<br />
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<strong>Times</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Islands</strong> <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>2024</strong> 81
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