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10<br />
Thursday <strong>July</strong> 4 <strong>2024</strong><br />
Pork belly and parsnips to beat the cold<br />
The days are cold, the<br />
nights even more so.<br />
Time to share food that<br />
will bolster us against<br />
the weather; good things<br />
to eat that will light up<br />
the dark days of deepest<br />
winter, bringing cheer and<br />
conviviality, writes Nigel<br />
Slater<br />
Slow roast belly pork<br />
with butter beans and<br />
balsamic vinegar<br />
A big dish this, with thick,<br />
jagged slices of pork on the bone,<br />
a pile of steaming butter beans<br />
at their side. Save this for those<br />
who positively relish sucking<br />
and gnawing at rib bones and<br />
chewing at crackling.<br />
Ingredients<br />
Serves 4<br />
1.9kg pork belly, bones in, skin<br />
scored<br />
2 medium onions<br />
2 medium carrots<br />
2 stalks celery<br />
3tbsp olive oil<br />
6 sprigs rosemary<br />
3 cloves garlic<br />
375g tomatoes<br />
500ml vegetable stock<br />
1 x 700g jar butter beans or 2 x<br />
400g tins<br />
1tbsp balsamic vinegar<br />
Method<br />
• Take the pork out of the<br />
fridge and leave it uncovered in a<br />
cool place for an hour or so.<br />
• Heat the oven to 220C fan.<br />
Rub the pork with salt and place<br />
it skin side up in a roasting tin.<br />
Roast for 25 minutes or so till<br />
the skin is a little puffed and<br />
starting to crackle, then lower<br />
the heat to 160C and cook for<br />
about 1½ hours.<br />
• Meanwhile, peel and<br />
roughly chop the onions. Trim<br />
the carrots, cut them in half<br />
lengthways, then into short<br />
pieces of about 1cm. Cut the<br />
celery into pieces of a similar<br />
size.<br />
• Warm the oil in a medium to<br />
large saucepan over a moderate<br />
heat, add the onion, carrots<br />
and celery, and leave to cook<br />
for about 15 minutes, stirring<br />
regularly, until the vegetables<br />
are starting to soften. While<br />
they cook, pull the leaves from<br />
the rosemary sprigs and chop<br />
them finely. Peel the garlic, slice<br />
very thinly then stir, with the<br />
rosemary, into the softening<br />
vegetables and continue cooking.<br />
• Roughly chop the tomatoes,<br />
then add them to the pan,<br />
stirring the mixture well. Once<br />
the tomatoes have softened and<br />
collapsed – a matter of 5-10<br />
minutes – pour in the stock<br />
and bring to the boil. Season<br />
with salt and black pepper and<br />
turn down the heat, leaving<br />
everything to simmer for 10<br />
minutes.<br />
• Drain the beans and stir into<br />
the vegetable mixture together<br />
with the balsamic vinegar, then<br />
set aside.<br />
• When the pork has been<br />
cooking for 1 hour, remove<br />
briefly from the oven and<br />
transfer the beans around the<br />
meat, taking care not to get<br />
any on the crackling. Continue<br />
roasting for 30 minutes or until<br />
the meat is tender.<br />
Roast parsnips with honey<br />
and ricotta<br />
Glistening with honey, ricotta<br />
and thyme, roast parsnips are<br />
something to serve with slices<br />
of cold roast meat or, as I did<br />
the other day, with baked flat<br />
mushrooms with tarragon<br />
and lemon butter. You can<br />
roast them without the initial<br />
steaming, but that can result in<br />
tougher, chewy parsnips. Better,<br />
I think, to steam them first,<br />
which results in a fluffy interior.<br />
Ingredients<br />
Enough for 4 as side dish<br />
900g parsnips<br />
30g butter<br />
3tbsp olive or vegetable oil<br />
3tbsp runny honey<br />
1tbsp thyme leaves<br />
100g ricotta<br />
Method<br />
• Get a pan of water on to<br />
boil and have a steamer basket<br />
or colander to hand. Peel the<br />
parsnips, cut them in half and<br />
then into short lengths, rather<br />
like the size you do for roast<br />
potatoes.<br />
• Lower the parsnips into the<br />
steamer basket, place it over the<br />
boiling water and cover tightly<br />
with a lid. Adjust the heat as<br />
necessary to keep the water<br />
boiling without boiling over,<br />
and let the vegetables steam<br />
for 20 minutes till approaching<br />
tenderness.<br />
• Set the oven at 210C fan.<br />
Melt the butter and olive oil<br />
in a roasting tin in the oven,<br />
then add the steamed parsnips.<br />
Toss them in the oil so they are<br />
glistening, then roast for about<br />
35-50 minutes till they are<br />
golden and lightly crisp.<br />
• Season the parsnips with<br />
salt and black pepper, trickle the<br />
honey over them, then return to<br />
the oven for a further 7 minutes.<br />
• Mix the thyme and ricotta<br />
together. Place spoonfuls of the<br />
cold ricotta on the hot, sizzling<br />
parsnips and serve immediately.<br />
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