Jeweller - July 2024

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY JULY 2024
Lessons Learned
CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF
AUSTRALIAN WATCHMAKING
Bigger & Bolder
MAKING A LASTING IMPRESSION
WITH NECKLACES AND CHAINS
Outrageous Opals
OUR NATIONAL GEMSTONE IN
THE INTERNATIONAL SPOTLIGHT
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CELEBRATING 25 YEARS OF
AUSTRALIAN WATCHMAKING
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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY JULY 2024
MAKING A LASTING IMPRESSION
WITH NECKLACES AND CHAINS
OUR NATIONAL GEMSTONE IN
THE INTERNATIONAL SPOTLIGHT
JULY 2024
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
13 Editorial
14 Upfront
16 News
28
31
58
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: July 2014
LEARN ABOUT GEMS
Game-changing gemmologists: XI
MY BENCH
Brian Bretherton
39 BIGGER IS BETTER
Make a statement
When it comes to choosing between thick
or thin necklaces and chains, there's only
one way to go.
34 2024 SOIR - ADDENDUM
See you in court!
As Jeweller's 2024 State of the Industry
Report continues, take a closer look at a highprofile
court case involving one of Australia's
largest precious metals companies.
43 Buying Guide
Features
32
34
39
50
Better Your Business
60
SOAPBOX
Alison Summerville
BRAND IN FOCUS
Maxum celebrates 25 years of Aussie watchmaking
STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT - ADDENDUM
Diving deeper into a high-profile court case
BOLD CHAINS & NECKLACES
The debate between thick and thin chains
OPALS & OPAL JEWELLERY
What is it that makes Australian opal so appealing?
32 BRAND IN FOCUS
Aussie, Aussie, Aussie
It's an important year for Australian
watch brand Maxum, celebrating 25
years since launch. Learn more about
the history of the brand, and discover
exciting plans for the future.
52
54
55
56
57
BUSINESS STRATEGY
What does it mean to be high performance? DAVID BROCK explores an important topic.
SELLING
DALE FURTWENGLER discusses the art of communication for sales staff.
MANAGEMENT
What do your customers want? DAVID BROWN outlines basic human needs.
MARKETING & PR
GEORGANNE BENDER & RICH KIZER prepare your store for a marketing makeover.
LOGGED ON
GRAHAM JONES details the lessons learned from a recent high-profile tech disaster.
50 OPALS & OPAL JEWELLERY
Witness the rainbow
Opal jewellery is the talk of the town.
What is it about Australia's national
gemstone that has captured the hearts
and minds of jewellery consumers
around the world?
FRONT COVER
Gerrim International proudly
combines timeless elegance with
breathtaking design. Taking great
pride in each piece, these colour
gemstone collections are designed
and created by women for women.
Enjoy sophistication every day with
Gerrim International, a leading
Australian jewellery supplier for
30 years. To learn more visit:
gerrim.com
Lessons Learned Bigger & Bolder Outrageous Opals
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July 2024 | 11

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Editor’s Desk
The future belongs to those who plan for it
Is your business ready to stand out when it matters most?
SAMUEL ORD urges you to prepare for the busiest time of the year.
The busiest time of the year for jewellery
retailers is still five months away.
For those planning on capitalising on the
end-of-year rush, there’s still plenty of
time left to prepare, right?
Wrong! Events like Black Friday, Christmas,
New Year and Boxing Day are crucial for
jewellery retailers. It’s truly a ‘make or
break’ stretch for many businesses.
Success during these periods is determined
long before any customer ever sets foot in
your store.
The future belongs to those who prepare
for it today. Jewellery retailers can secure
success at the end of the year by making
strategic moves today.
For example, the upcoming International
Jewellery Fair in Sydney offers retailers
a prime opportunity to prepare for the
holiday season.
Retailers must focus on fine-tuning their
stock. Ordering early secures new
products before potential shortages
and allows for negotiating advantageous
terms with suppliers.
Staggering deliveries allows you to align
stock expenses with anticipated revenue,
optimising cash flow. This approach
ensures retailers meet customer demand
without overcommitting resources.
Even slow-moving and stale products have
a chance to sell during the bustling holiday
season. Refreshing old inventory with
new packaging and pricing can rejuvenate
interest and maximise sales potential.
Events like trade shows are also crucial
for understanding market trends and
consumer preferences. Effective market
research informs product selection
and marketing strategies.
It never hurts to talk with other retailers
about their products and customers!
Most people at jewellery fairs are happy
to have a chat about what matters most
to them - their business.
A simple conversation can provide insights
into successful retail strategy and evolving
consumer tastes. Monitoring trends in
materials and designs showcased by
exhibitors helps retailers stay ahead
of the game.
Effective market research hinges on setting
clear objectives, planning, and ensuring the
data collected is structured and practical.
By adhering to these principles, retailers
gather actionable insights to inform
product selection, marketing strategies,
and overall business decisions.
Documenting all strategies and outcomes
is essential for refining future preparations.
Learning from successes and failures
ensures continuous improvement and
better business outcomes year after year.
Said another way, recording successful
and unsuccessful policies allows retailers
and their staff to learn from mistakes and
improve strategies effectively. Failing to do
so ensures that retailers start from scratch
again every year.
It’s also important to be willing to make
hard calls when required. December
isn't the right time to trust new staff with
customer interactions. This period is
crucial and shouldn't be left to rookies.
When every sale matters, that's when
professionals shine. Missed opportunities
today won't return tomorrow.
Your top-performing sales staff should
handle key items like diamond jewellery
and be clear on their targets. These sales
stars need to be identified well before
the holiday period.
Less experienced or casual staff should
support these employees by managing
less critical tasks, allowing the best in the
business to focus on plying their trade.
Having your best staff occupied with stock
sorting behind the scenes means missing
out on potential sales opportunities.
Have you given your marketing strategy
any thought? Instead of waiting for
someone to bring you an opportunity,
take the initiative and create a
comprehensive plan.
Determine an appropriate budget that
aligns with your goals. Every budget should
encompass various aspects such as
advertising costs, promotional materials,
and necessary staffing or resources.
By setting a budget early, you can effectively
allocate funds to maximise impact.
The greatest
crime in
marketing
isn't making
mistakes. It’s
failing to learn
from them.
Identify the most effective mediums for
reaching your target customers. There are
always unique advantages to be leveraged.
Social media allows for audience
targeting; email newsletters enable direct
communication with customers, and physical
advertisements can attract shoppers.
Highlighting special offers, gift ideas, and
holiday-specific promotions can enhance
customer interest and drive sales. Focus on
products that resonate with the season.
In other words, capture customers with
compelling content, capitalise on seasonal
trends, and adapt your strategy based on
real-time performance data.
Planning ensures you’re ready for every
opportunity to attract and retain customers
during this critical sales period.
Perhaps the most important thing to do is
document every strategy and its outcome.
It can be easy to lose track of the decisions,
processes, and strategies implemented
throughout the year.
Even the successful initiatives from the
previous holiday period can fade from
memory as retailers reinvent their
approach in the lead-up to December.
It is crucial to maintain a detailed record of all
marketing initiatives and store policies. This
documentation allows for easy reference and
is a valuable resource for future planning.
The greatest crime in marketing isn't making
mistakes. It’s failing to learn from them.
Retailers who heed these lessons and
maintain an agile and informed approach to
business will find themselves well-positioned
to meet consumer demand and achieve
long-lasting and sustainable success in an
increasingly competitive jewellery market.
Remember, there’s no guarantee of a second
chance. Failure during the most critical time
of the year – when as much as 25 per cent
of annual sales may be completed – can be
catastrophic.
So make sure you start preparing today,
because the future favours those who are
well-prepared.
Plan your work and work your plan.
SAMUEL ORD
EDITOR
July 2024 | 13

Upfront
Stranger Things
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
Brazen smash-and-grab
A jewellery store in the US was
ransacked by a gang of at least a dozen
masked raiders. The criminals crashed
into Bhindi Jewelers in San Francisco
after smashing their way through double
security doors and snatched watches,
gold rings and diamond necklaces. The
gang - of women and men - were in the
store for fewer than three minutes and
fled in cars that were double-parked
outside. Workers on a site nearby heard
the noise as the doors were broken down
and assumed it was construction work.
It’s raining diamonds
The onset of the monsoon season
in India signals the start of the annual
'diamond rush'. In the coastal state
of Andhra Pradesh, renowned for
its diamond reserves, thousands of
villagers anticipate striking it rich as the
rains uncover treasures beneath the
topsoil. Farmers argue with diamond
hunters who trample through fields,
while traders flock to the region hoping
to acquire valuable discoveries. Recently,
an unconfirmed report stated that a
farmer in the Kurnool district unearthed
a diamond valued at over $USD36,000.
Trickery and devastation
A US woman was reportedly deceived
by storeowners in India who sold her
gold-plated jewellery for Rs60 million
(approximately $USD718,000). The
purchase took place at a store located
in Johri Bazar, Rajasthan. Initially, the
woman received a hallmark certificate
upon buying the jewellery nearly two
years ago. However, after exhibiting the
piece in the US, she discovered it was
counterfeit, with an estimated value of
only $USD4. Consequently, she returned
to India to confront the store, which has
since refuted the accusation.
Rewind: Best Bench Tip
MAY, 2016
“Finish the inside of a
setting with a high polish
before actually setting the
stone. That way the setting
will give the diamond full
reflection and extra life.”
HRATCH GHARIBIAN
AJ JEWELLERY AND DIAMOND SETTER
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
The Hortensia
Diamond
The Hortensia Diamond was
mined in India and is part of
the French Crown Jewels. It
is a 20-carat diamond of pale
orange-pink colour, cut into a
five-sided shape, with a feather
running from its tip to its girdle.
The Hortensia was purchased
by King Louis XIV of France
in 1643. It was stolen in 1792 during the French Revolution. It was
recovered from an attic in the district of Les Halles in a bag with other
crown jewels. It was stolen for a second time in 1830, this time from
the Ministry of the Navy, but recovered shortly after. In the early 1800s,
it acquired its name from Hortense de Beauharnais, Queen of Holland
and stepdaughter of Napoleon Bonaparte. Today, Hortensia is displayed
at the Galerie d'Apollon of the Louvre Museum.
Chatterbox
Have you ever contacted customer
service online and felt like you were
dealing with a robot? Chances are, you
are! Chatbots and virtual assistants
powered by conversational Artificial
Intelligence (AI) provide instant
customer support, answer inquiries,
and handle customer service issues,
improving response time. With an
increasing number of retailers adopting
these programs, the hope is that
customer satisfaction will improve
with reliable and accurate responses to
issues and questions.
Timeless Trends
The full diamond eternity band is
gaining popularity as a fashionable ring
despite traditionally being reserved
for a bridal ring stack. Contemporary
updates on the classic eternity brand
include bold styles with round brilliant,
emerald, or oval-cut diamonds.
Half-eternity bands also make a
statement and popular.
Campaign Watch
A new marketing campaign from
online jewellery retailer James Allen
has drawn the ire of consumers on
social media. James Allen recently
launched an advertising campaign
in New York City’s subway transit
system, and social media users have
been quick to air their grievances.
Thousands of people have negatively
reacted to a post on social media.
Image: Tiffany & Co.
Image: Instagram
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com
Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Editor Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com
Production Prince Bisenio art@befindanmedia.com • Digital Coordinator Riza Buliag riza@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com
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strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to
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News
Who cares: Diamond tracing
debate resurfaces in US
The debate about the importance of provenance
and proof of origin in the diamond industry has
continued in recent weeks.
In recent years, many industry figureheads have
cited provenance as a crucial factor in the future
of the trade.
That said, the issue has become murky following
suggestions that proof of origin is increasingly
important to consumers and, by extension, retailers.
Provenance was discussed at length at a recent
RapNet panel, Diamond Origin: Practical Advice for
Informed Purchasing, which was part of the recent
JCK Las Vegas show.
One of the contributors to the discussion was
Olivia Landau, CEO of online natural-diamond
retailer The Clear Cut.
Landau drew attention to the widespread lack
of knowledge about the origins of diamonds
among consumers.
“Everyone just assumes that natural diamonds
come from one place, and it’s Africa and Africa’s
one country, and it is a blood diamond. We are
starting from square one,” she said.
“If you ask the average US consumer, they don’t even
know diamonds come from Canada, they can’t point
Botswana out on a map, and they probably have no
idea diamonds come from Russia either.”
To combat this lack of understanding, she
suggested that jewellery retailers educate
consumers about diamonds' origins and the
benefits mining brings to producer countries.
“Without that education and that storytelling,
consumers have no idea they should be even
asking for it,” she added.
“It’s important for retailers [and] companies to
create this kind of buzz marketing to educate
from the bottom.”
The Clear Cut has partnered with Tracr, the De
Beers Group’s diamond tracing platform, and
Landau described provenance as a ‘post-purchase
add-on’ for consumers.
As part of the 2024 State of the Industry Report,
more than 200 retailers were asked by Jeweller
how often consumers express interest in the
origins of diamonds.
Startlingly, only three per cent suggested that
provenance is ‘always’ raised by customers. A
further 15 per cent indicated that customers
raised the topic ‘very frequently’; however, the
consensus appeared that shoppers do not care
about proof of origin.
About 15 per cent of jewellers said that when
shopping for diamond and gemstone jewellery,
customers never discussed provenance, and
more than one-third of responses revealed that
customers ‘rarely’ raise the topic.
Diamond sanctions: Russia searches for new partnerships
Russia is reportedly looking to strengthen the
relationship between its diamond industry and
non-western markets as the impact of sanctions
continues to take hold.
The future of the diamond industry was the
focus of a discussion at the St. Petersburg
International Economic Forum earlier
this month.
BRICS is an intergovernmental organisation
founded in 2009 and chaired by Russia. Its core
members are Brazil, Russia, India, China, and
South Africa. Iran, Egypt, Ethiopia, and the
United Arab Emirates were later additions.
In response to ongoing sanctions from the
European Union and the G7, Russia plans
to strengthen the ties between the diamond
industry and these markets.
Pavel Marinychev, CEO of diamond miner
Alrosa, said that these relationships would
secure the stability of the global market.
"The interests of all participants could be
united in the BRICS trade and economic space:
major diamond-mining countries that develop
deposits on an industrial scale, countries with
predominantly artisanal alluvial diamond mining,
centres of diamond trade, cutting, and jewellery
production, and the growing markets for finished
products," he said.
"New cooperation mechanisms will ensure
the stability of the global diamond market and
preserve the system of the free global trade of
diamond products based on the core principles
of the Kimberley Process."
In a statement, BRICS suggested that the
attempted introduction of unilateral trade
barriers undermines the Kimberley Process.
US retailers express concern
In the US, a retail jewellery trade association
has warned Congress about the impact of
sanctions against the Russian diamond industry.
Jewelers of America (JA) met with Democrat
and Republican lawmakers in the House and
Senate to express frustration with the impact
of sanctions.
CEO David J. Bonaparte said that a single
important channel would damage the
diamond supply chain while having little
impact on Russia’s diamond sales revenue.
"JA has been working tirelessly behind the
scenes,” he said.
“This visit to Washington, D.C. was a critical
step to ensure we minimise unnecessary
disruptions to the U.S. diamond industry.”
The association is urging its members to lobby
Congress and explain the impact restrictions
will have on retail businesses.
European Union delays sanctions against Russia
The European Union has extended its
introduction period for sanctions against the
Russian diamond industry by six months.
The traceability program for the import of
rough and polished natural diamonds was
scheduled to begin on 1 September. That
has now been extended to 1 March 2025.
The EU said in a statement that the
extension would give the G7 more
time to set up the scheme.
This announcement comes after widespread
criticism of the structure of the sanctions
and the timeline associated with their
implementation.
The De Beers Group recently called for a
timeline extension.
The Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC) has
responded to the EU’s announcement, describing
it as a pleasing outcome.
“We are extremely pleased that, after months
of intense negotiations, we have succeeded
in pushing the needle to allow regularisation
of so-called grandfathered stock,’” the
statement reads.
“Sanctioning these goods and prohibiting
their trade would impose an unfair and severe
financial burden on diamond companies without
significantly impacting Russia’s revenues.”
The EU has also included a clause to
exempt diamonds located in the EU or a
third country other than Russia before the
rules went into effect.
The EU ban on direct imports of diamonds from
Russia began on January 1, while the prohibition
of goods transformed outside Russia started
on 1 March. Furthermore, temporary imports or
exports of jewellery, such as those for trade fairs
or repairs, will not be affected by the ban.
16 | July 2024

News
Early diamond jewellery sales struggles for Signet
Diamond industry leader
happy to play the long game
The largest diamond jewellery retailer in the
world, US-based Signet Jewelers, reported a
decline in sales and profit in the first quarter
amid adverse economic conditions.
Revenue decreased by 9 per cent on a yearon-year
comparison, reaching $USD1.51
billion ($AUD2.28 billion) for the period ending
4 May. Proft declined by 47 per cent.
CEO Virginia Drosos said that trading was
slow in February before improving in May.
"Our results reflect notable acceleration
from a sluggish February to the top half
of expectations, with an even stronger May,"
she said.
“Further, customers continue to respond
well to our new product offerings and
loyalty program, reflected in a meaningful
improvement in comparable sales for
fashion since February.”
She added: “We expect continued momentum
in the second quarter, leading to a positive
same-store sales inflection in the second
half of fiscal 2025."
Signet has maintained its sale outlook at
between $USD6.6 billion ($AUD9.96 billion)
and $USD7.02 billion ($AUD10.6 billion).
Signet owns Kay Jewelers, Zales, Jared, and
Blue Nile.
Chow Tai Fook celebrates anniversary with strong sales
Hong Kong jewellery retailer Chow Tai Fook has
reported record-high revenue and operating
profits for the past 12 months.
Operating more than 7,400 stores across
mainland China, the retailer recorded a 14
per cent increase in sales on a year-on-year
comparison, while operating profit increased by
28 per cent.
Chairman Henry Cheng said the company is
focused on increasing its presence abroad.
“As Chow Tai Fook Jewellery celebrates 95
years of excellence, we honour our legacy while
looking steadfastly towards the future," he said.
“We are in the process of writing an exciting
new chapter in our brand’s story, guided by
our vision: To be the leading global jewellery
brand that is a trusted lifetime partner for
every generation.”
The statement also noted that sales during
festive periods remained resilient despite an
adverse economy.
In an interview with the South China Morning
Post, creative director Nicholas Lieou said
that finding a balance between tradition and
modern tastes was crucial in the future.
“I love to interpret Chinese culture and heritage
for global audiences, and people who can
appreciate the intricacy and timelessness of
Chinese craftsmanship and gold craft,” he said.
“This approach not only respects our rich
heritage but also appeals to the modern
consumer, bridging generations with designs
that carry deep cultural significance.”
Chow Tai Fook recorded a 22 per cent increase
in sales of gold jewellery over the past year,
accounting for 82 per cent of total revenue.
Sales of diamond and colour gemstone
jewellery decreased by 13 per cent.
The latest sales figures from the world’s largest
diamond producer, the De Beers Group, were
highlighted by another significant decline.
The mining company hosted its fifth sales cycle
between 10-14 June in Botswana, achieving
$USD315 million ($AUD474.2 million) in sales, a 31
per cent decrease on a year-on-year comparison.
These sales also marked a notable decline from
the fourth cycle (18 per cent) and the third cycle
(29 per cent) earlier this year.
In a statement, De Beers said it still expects the
market to take multiple years to recover.
“The northern summer is generally a quieter
period for rough-diamond sales, and this was
reflected in our cycle five sales,” said CEO Al Cook.
“The recent annual JCK jewellery show in Las
Vegas confirmed a resurgence in retailers’ interest
in natural diamonds in the US, but ongoing
economic growth challenges in China mean we
continue to expect a protracted U-shaped recovery
in demand.”
The next sight is scheduled to run from 22-26 July.
Playing the long game
The diamond industry was whipped into a frenzy
earlier this year when it was announced that
parent company Anglo American was exploring
sales options for De Beers.
In a recent interview with Reuters, Mark Wall,
CEO of Mountain Province Diamonds, reported
that any potential sale would be a long-term
development for the company.
Mountain Province Diamonds is partnered with
De Beers in the Gahcho Kué mine in Canada.
“I have had many discussions with De Beers
Canada,” Wall said.
“What I am getting is no one is rushing into
anything. There is an acceptance that this
is going to take some time.”
JCK Online recently reported that any potential
sale would take at least 12-18 months.
MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
July 2024 | 17

News
Hacking controversy surrounding
Christie’s auction continues
Hackers who breached the computer system of a luxury auction house
have reportedly sold the private data of customers.
In May, Christie’s was forced to delay its Geneva Rare Watches auction
by one day after being targeted by criminals. The sale was expected to
occur on 13 May.
The auction house has since conceded that a ‘limited’ amount of customer
personal data was stolen during the back; however, sales have continued
without interruption. While the auction house did not name the criminals
responsible for the breach, the ‘RansomHub’ gang recently added Christie’s
data to its online portal.
The cybercriminals claimed to have the ID document details and other
sensitive personal information of around 500,000 Christie's clients. The
entry has since been updated to state the hackers have sold the stolen
data via their own auction platform.
Chris Pierson, CEO of BlackCloak, told The Guardian that Christie’s key
concern was damage to its reputation after this incident.
“Although the most recent Christie’s breach may not involve financial
information, it may contain contact information for their high net-worth
clients – and that’s potentially worrisome because it could lead to the
commission of further cybercrime,” he said.
“The main issue for Christie’s is reputational, and they need to get ahead
of it in terms of communication with their clients and make sure they know
what information is out there so they can protect themselves and to know
what Christie’s is doing to make sure this does not happen again."
Despite the interruption, the Geneva Rare Watches went ahead the following
day, with eight watches from the private collection of Formula 1 star Michael
Schumacher selling for $USD4.4 million ($AUD6.64 million).
Rare jewellery and watches shine at auctions
A diamond tie necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels was the star of a recent
Sotheby’s New York jewellery sale.
The necklace — consisting of graduated links with cut diamonds and a
rotating tassel — was the top-selling item at the 7 June Magnificent
Jewels sale, collecting $USD3.6 million ($AUD5.45 million).
An Egyptian-style bracelet designed in France in the 1920s featuring diamonds,
rubies, sapphires, emeralds and black onyx also surpassed its pre-sale estimate.
The central panel depicts the figure of Isis, with Horus falcons and papyrus
reeds on the flanking panels. The bracelet fetched $USD1 million ($AUD1.51
million), tripling its estimated return. The Magnificent Jewels sale returned
$USD30 million ($AUD45.43 million).
Around the world
A rare 1953 Patek Philippe watch - one of only three ever made - recently
sold for $USD8.42 million ($AUD12.72 million) at Christie's in Hong Kong.
The 18-carat yellow gold two-crown Patek Philippe World Time, reference
2523J, was the highlight of the Important Watches sale. Only 12 watches of
that reference were made with enamel maps - six of North America, three
of South America and three of Eurasia.
A platinum and gold Cartier 'India' tutti frutti necklace was sold for
$USD8.7 million ($AUD13.18 million) at Christie's in Hong Kong. It was
the leading item of the Magnificent Jewels sale, which realised a total of
$USD61 million ($AUD92.39 million). The necklace, made of carved rubies,
emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds, was signed by Cartier and had the
maker's mark and number.
18 | July 2024

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News
Talk of the town: MoonSwatch returns
to Earth with three new releases
Swatch has unveiled three new additions to the MoonSwatch collection,
marking a surprising return to Earth.
Instagram videos and in-store displays promote the release of reference
natural phenomena, including volcanic lava, the Aurora Borealis, and
desert landscapes.
Reception to the three new releases has been positive, as collectors and
enthusiasts switch from fatigued to excited.
“If you thought Omega and Swatch were out of tricks to come up with
new variations of the MoonSwatch, well, all I can say is you don't know
MoonSwatch,” writes Mark Kauzlarich of Hodinkee.
“The two brands just dropped three new collaborative releases today, and
unlike the year full of Full Moon subtle variants and two Snoopy-inspired
releases, these are Earth-inspired and pretty damn creative.”
Mission on Earth Lava, Polar Lights and Desert introduces three new
colourways to the collection. As usual, these watches will not be sold
online and are only available at select Swatch stores with the traditional
one-watch-a-day per person rule.
Lava comes in black with accents of dark orange, while Polar Lights
has a turquoise green for its case and a night blue dial dotted with
stars. MoonSwatch Desert comes in a sand colour, and the dial and
strap come in grey.
“With MoonSwatch models already dedicated to all of the major celestial
bodies in our solar system, including the Sun, the Moon, and Pluto —
not to mention various limited editions with the addition of Moonshine
gold-plated seconds hands or Snoopy — it was slightly unclear what
inspiration Swatch and Omega might use for their next batch of
MoonSwatch models,” Ripley Sellers of ABlogToWatch.
“While some collectors and enthusiasts are starting to grow somewhat
tired of the general MoonSwatch concept - myself included - I find this
latest trio of Mission on Earth models to be some of the best-looking
renditions of this mega-popular collaboration.”
All three watches have velcro straps with stitching that matches the
colours of their 42mm cases. The retail price is £240 ($AUD461).
In early 2022, shopping centres were flooded with thousands of people
trying to get their hands on the Omega x Swatch Speedmaster
Bioceramic MoonSwatch collection.
The initial excitement was generated because the product was a unique
collaboration between Omega and Swatch.
Featuring the delicate pink tones
of Argyle pink diamonds
PinkKimberley.com.au
Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199

ORIGINALS
News
Passion for pink diamonds on show
in New York City
At the most recent jewellery auction at Christie’s in New York, a pink
diamond ring was the star of the show, comfortably surpassing its pre-sale
estimate.
Known as the Eden Rose, the ring features a 10-carat fancy intense pink
diamond surrounded by eight pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamonds and two
additional marquise brilliant-cut stones.
The pre-sale estimate at the 11 June Magnificent Jewels sale was $USD9
million ($AUD13.59 million); however, the piece was sold for $USD13.3
million ($AUD20.08 million).
The auction generated $USD44.4 million ($AUD67.03 million), with 90 per
cent of items finding buyers. Rahul Kadakia, international head of jewellery,
said it was a pleasing outcome.
“Collectors participated actively in all areas of the sale, paying strong prices for
rare coloured gemstones and natural pearls in particular,” he said.
Other items of note included a necklace featuring a cushion-modified
brilliant-cut, 84-carat, fancy, intense yellow diamond that was sold for
$USD 2.2 million ($AUD3.32 million).
Set in a ring, a heart-modified brilliant-cut, 2.28-carat, fancy vivid blue
diamond surrounded by yellow and white diamonds was sold for $USD2.1
million ($AUD3.17 million).
Buyers also paid attention to jewellery from designers such as Bulgari,
Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels.
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22 | July 2024
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Jewellery Fair
Where Brilliance Connects
17 – 19 AUGUST, 2024
ICC SYDNEY, DARLING HARBOUR
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Organised by
July 2024 | 23

News
Movie star campaign: Ana de Armas showcases new collection from Louis Vuitton
Highlighted by a 12-carat Zambian emerald, the
necklace took more than 4,200 hours to complete.
Another standout is the Splendeur, a high-collar
necklace with 52 rubies. It was created by 17
setters and 30 jewellers and features more than
2,4000 individual elements mounted over more
than 3,200 hours.
Leading luxury brand Louis Vuitton has
released a new jewellery collection, showcased
by a marketing campaign featuring actress Ana
de Armas.
The collection — Awakened Hands, Awakened
Minds — was designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof
and inspired by 19th-century France.
It is the designer’s sixth collection for the brand
and features 220 exclusive pieces divided into
13 themes.
“France in the 19th century was a phenomenal
time of incredible change, and when Paris
really became the centre of the world,”
Amfitheatrof said.
“The design language of Awakened Hands,
Awakened Minds reflects that – all its intricacies,
complications and innovations – turned into
incredible jewels.”
One of the more noteworthy pieces is the
Séduction necklace.
Pandora releases lab-created diamond
jewellery in new markets
Pandora has launched its new labcreated
diamond jewellery collections
in mainland Europe for the first time.
The four collections — Pandora
Talisman, Pandora Infinite, Pandora
Nova, and Pandora Era — were
released in Australia in August. They
feature an assortment of necklaces,
earrings, and rings.
These collections were introduced
to European markets, beginning
with Denmark, in the past week. The
company also opened a two-story
flagship store in Copenhagen.
CEO Alexander Lacik said it was an
honour to introduce the collections to
consumers in the company’s country
of origin.
“Our lab-grown diamonds represent the future of luxury,” he said.
“They combine beauty and responsibility, and we are incredibly excited
to bring them to Denmark. As a Danish company, it is particularly
meaningful for us to introduce this innovation to our home market.”
Pandora also recently released a new collection of pearl jewellery,
known as Pandora Essence. The company has increased its expected
revenue to 8-10 per cent this financial year, which it attributed to the
rising popularity of lab-created diamond jewellery.
24 | July 2024

News
Rebellious Glam: THOMAS SABO
celebrates anniversary with new release
German jewellery brand THOMAS SABO is
celebrating its 40th anniversary this year by
releasing several new jewellery collections.
Among them is the Rebellious Glam collection
– a new collection of selected design codes
representing significant moments in the
company's history since 1984.
More than 60 pieces, including newly
designed crosses and silver chains,
chokers, earrings, bracelets, and rings
with tarnished silver and elaborate facetcut
gemstones, complete the collection.
Highlights include the Dragon, often
associated with adventure, and a ring
featuring an all-seeing eye representing the
brand’s ongoing development and evolution.
The anniversary symbol is the Heart with
Wings.
Brand founder Thomas Sabo said that every
piece of jewellery from the collection is
designed to tell a personal story and create
an emotional connection with consumers.
"I can't wait to introduce our Rebellious
Glam collection to the public. It reflects true
connection and embodies the DNA of our
Rebel at Heart line,” he said.
“Designs such as crosses, dragons, snakes,
hearts and floral design codes are faithful
companions in the history of our brand.”
Rebellious Glam will be exclusively available
from August in THOMAS SABO stores
worldwide or online thomassabo.com.au.
Duraflex Group Australia distributes the
brand in Australia and New Zealand.
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July 2024 | 25
AU +61 2 8543 4600 NZ +64 9 480 2211 | designaaccessories.com.au

Life in the fastlane: Luminox partners with
Red Bull Ampol Racing for new release
Swiss watch brand Luminox has announced a new partnership with
Australian motorsports team Red Bull Ampol Racing.
As part of this partnership, Luminox will be Red Bull Ampol Racing's
official timing partner, offering high-performance watches designed to
withstand the rigours of racing.
Luminox is distributed in Australia and New Zealand by Duraflex Group
Australia. Managing director Phil Edwards said that the new partnership
was a great fit due to shared passion.
"We are incredibly excited to partner with Red Bull Ampol Racing," he
told Jeweller.
"Both Luminox and Red Bull Ampol Racing share a passion for excellence
and a commitment to pushing the limits of performance. We look forward
to supporting the team on and off the track."
Three new pieces have been released to mark the new partnership.
The Leatherback SEA Turtle Giant is a robust watch with a sleek 45mm
carbonox case, featuring a unidirectional bezel and screw-in caseback.
Designed for depths, it's water-resistant up to 100 meters.
The original Navy SEAL has been reimagined for Red Bull Ampol Racing
– encased in robust 316L stainless steel, known for its corrosion resistance
and hypoallergenic properties. The unidirectional carbonox bezel adds a
layer of functionality.
Finally, the Red Bull Ampol Racing Pacific Diver Chronograph has been
limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, and each watch box is signed by team
drivers Broc Feeney and Will Brown.
Australia’s Longest
Operating Watch Brand
ClassiqueWatches.com
Become a stockist today 02 9290 2199
Designed as a crucial tool for divers, this watch has a navy blue cut-to-fit
rubber strap that ensures a comfortable and customised fit. The sleek
stainless steel case is paired with a carbonox unidirectional bezel.
Tom Wilson, commercial director of Red Bull Ampol Racing, said that a
shared enthusiasm for innovation was crucial.
"We are delighted to welcome Luminox to the Red Bull Ampol Racing
family," he said.
"Their reputation for quality, presentation and innovation makes them the
perfect partner for our team, I can’t wait to see this come to life when we
launch the Red Bull Ampol Racing Luminox range later this year.”
Luminox X Red Bull Ampol Racing watches are available from
luminox.com.au and in-store from mid-May. Prices range from
$599 – $1,499.
26 | July 2024

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OPAL
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July 2024 | 27

10 Years Ago
Time Machine: July 2014
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
Historic Headlines
Georgini takes on new jewellery brand
Thomas Sabo unveils new collection
Benchies, Nic Cerrone gear up for industry firsts
Showcase CEO loses position on industry board
Bevilles’ Indian supplier closes own stores
Industry award to commemorate
jewellery ‘quiet achiever’
Following the unexpected death of one of
Australia’s best-known jewellers, an award will
be named after Ann Middleton in honour of the
contribution she made to the industry.
After Middleton’s sudden death on Friday 25 July,
Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz-Roy
announced that there would be an “Ann Middleton
Award” at next year’s Jewellery Industry Awards
(JIA); the JIA celebrates the people that make up
the industry.
“Ann was one of our judges for the inaugural event
in 2014 and we’re really proud of the association,
albeit short, that we had with her,” Fitz-Roy said.
“We want what she has contributed to be an
ongoing legacy.”
Diamond dealer placed
in liquidation
After recent speculation that Sydney-based
diamond supplier Miller Diamonds was “in
trouble”, the company has now been placed into
voluntary liquidation.
Insolvency firm Jirsch Sutherland was appointed by
shareholders and creditors on Friday 18 July, and a
creditors' meeting has been scheduled for Monday
28 July.
Official liquidator, Sule Arnautovic confirmed to
Jeweller that “the business is unlikely to be sold or
restructured and, at this stage, closure is the most
likely option.”
Arnautovic said that the cause of Miller Diamonds’
financial predicament was due to its major
overseas diamond supplier “calling in” its debt.
“We were appointed by the Miller family and
apart from the family and the overseas [diamond]
supplier there are not many other creditors,”
Arnautovic explained.
Editor’s Desk
Jewellers are in an enviable position
“When it comes to jewellery, consumers
often prefer unique pieces and CAD/CAM
can only benefit jewellers to deliver this,
unlocking new design ideas and facilitating
the use of manufacturing techniques that
were once too expensive and complex for
general use.
Importantly, new product offerings will do
much to keep demand buoyant, especially
among a new generation of consumers."
Soapbox
July 2014
ON THE COVER TRESOR PARIS
These are not white diamonds
In the last 30 years, new colours and cuts
have changed the market.
Mass-produced white diamonds are now
everywhere and largely represented on
the internet.
When internet marketers took over
the supply of white diamonds from the
jeweller, they de-valued these diamonds.
Essentially, white diamonds have become
a commodity and can be bought online like
a pair of shoes or a loaf of bread.
James Lehman
Lost River Diamonds
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
“Buyers can now get just about all of
the information about a business, store,
product or service from the web; however,
what customers don’t have – what
they want – are the latest trends, best
practices or creative applications that
determine whether or not there is a fit for
their situation.”
‘Racist jewellery’ pulled
after uproar
British fashion retail giant Topshop has
withdrawn a line of jewellery after receiving
a barrage of complaints stating that the
range was racist.
According to a report by South China Morning
Post (SCMP), Topshop faced public backlash
when a customer tweeted a photo of a necklace
from its Freedom Found collection that featured
a number of “yellow face” head charms.
The jewellery designs were said to closely
resemble yellow face characters depicted in
the anti-Chinese propaganda that was being
spread while the Chinese Exclusion Act was
in force in the United States. It was reported
that the charms were also reminiscent of the
Asian stereotypes that appeared in 20th century
Hollywood films.
New award-winning Euro brand
hits the market
Local supplier Timesupply has added an
award-winning European jewellery brand to
its portfolio after securing the distribution
rights to Coeur de Lion.
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
Foreshadowing its reception in Australia and
New Zealand, the German brand is said to have
already experienced success in more than 30
countries and was recently named Jewellery
Brand of the Year at trade publication Retail
Jeweller’s 2014 UK Watch and Jewellery Awards.
While it could be perceived that the local market
was already saturated with European brands,
Timesupply managing director Ken Abbott
told Jeweller that he believed there was room
for Coeur de Lion, adding that he had already
started placing orders.
28 | July 2024

Long live
doing what's
right.
BECKS is on a path of evolution.
Continuous improvement and
sustainability is at the core of our
business practices. This journey of
innovation will help us to continue
to deliver world class wedding rings
and jewellery products, crafted in
our South Australian studio.
For both our customers and their
clients, we stand by three powerful
words. Long live love.
BECKS, working towards:
Circular
Economy
Sustainable
Packaging
Positive
Impact
Meaningful
Accreditations
Toll Free. 1800 888 585
Email. info@becksgroup.au
Web. becksgroup.au

Behind every gemstone,
there is a fascinating story
waiting to delight clients
around the world. Studying
with GAA brings the
expertise, networking and
confidence to build a solid
career in a multimilliondollar
industry. Joining
one of the most supportive
and passionate professional
communities of gemmologists
in Australia was one of the
best decision I ever made.
Gina Barreto FGAA DipDT
Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist
Diamond
Courses
Practical Diamond Grading
Advanced Practical Diamond Grading
Diploma in Diamond Technology
Enrolments now open
For more information
1300 436 338
learn@gem.org.au
www.gem.org.au
Be
Confident
Gem-Ed Australia
ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY
Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts
and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW
Gems
Gemmologists who changed the game:
Grahame Brown
Grahame Brown was a distinguished
gemmologist whose contributions and
legacy to the world of gemmology cannot
be overstated. Brown was a practising
dentist until his passing, and alongside this
profession, he achieved so much in the field
of gemmology.
Completing the GAA Diploma of Gemmology
in 1974, he passed the course with a high
distinction and was awarded the Australia
Prize for the highest marks in the country.
The following year, he achieved another high
distinction when completing his studies with the
Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
Brown became a lecturer at the Queensland
Division of the GAA in 1975 and served as the
Federal Chairman of the GAA from 1979 to
1981, becoming president of the GAA in 1983.
He lectured at the University of Queensland
and taught gemstone identification for the
Department of Mineralogy and Geology from
1989 to 1992.
Brown travelled to many countries to provide
lectures and seminars in gemmology. He
visited various organisations, including the
Gemmological Association of Hong Kong,
the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences
in Bangkok, the Singapore Gemmologists
Society, the GIA International Gemological
Symposium, and the Gemmological
Association of New Zealand.
Brown was a prolific writer and researcher, and
by the end of his life, he had published more
than 500 gemmological papers.
He was awarded the first Research Diploma of
the GAA for his investigations into the structure
and properties of precious corals.
His Summer 1991 Gems & Gemology article on
treated Andamooka matrix opal remains the
definitive work on the subject.
He also wrote ground-breaking articles on
various kinds of ivory - perhaps an apt topic for
a dentist!
He not only contributed through his writing and
research, but was an accomplished editor.
Grahame Brown (1936-2008) wrote the definitive article on
treated Andamooka matrix opal, which was published in
Gems & Gemology in 1991.
Brown's extensive role as editor of The
Australian Gemmologist is detailed on
the GAA website.
"Prior to 1982, a general committee was
responsible for the production of the journal
without the specific role of an Editor," it reads.
"Dr Grahame Brown followed on in the
esteemed footsteps of Bill Hicks and was Editor
from 1994 until his death in January 2008, the
longest tenure to date."
In 2001, Brown was appointed editor to The
NCJV Valuer, Australia's dedicated journal for
evaluating gemstones and jewellery.
He was a contributing editor to the fifth
edition of Robert Webster’s Gems: Their
Sources, Descriptions and Identification, first
published in 1994. It is a reference book used by
gemmological organisations across the world.
Throughout his lifetime, Brown has been
greatly celebrated and acknowledged
throughout the industry.
The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
in the United States awarded him a Charter
Senior Member title of the National Gem &
Jewelry Appraisers Association, the Canadian
Gemmological Association awarded him a pass
with distinction, and he was elected a Fellow of
the Gemmological Association of South Africa.
He was also elected to the International
Gemmological Conference (IGC) in 1995 and
served as Australia’s delegate to the CIBJO
Congress in 2002 and 2004. He was made an
honorary life member of the GAA in 1990.
Among his varied commitments, Brown founded
his own gemstone identification, valuation, and
consultancy business called ALLGEM Services.
Brown passed away after a long battle with
cancer, and following his death, numerous
articles were written to commemorate his
contribution to the field.
In an article for JCK Magazine, Gary Roskin
describes Brown as being “well-known and
highly praised throughout the world by his peers
for his ability to share his love for gemmology.”
Grahame Brown was a man of unquestionable
intellect whose passion and drive for the
science of gemmology lives on in his extensive
contributions to the field through his leadership
roles across gemmological and educational
institutions, his numerous research articles and
his dedication to many industry publications.
Teaghan Hall is a fine art graduate with a
specialised interest in antique jewellery. She works
in the antique jewellery trade and has written for
various industry publications while studying with
the Gemmological Association of Australia.
For more information on gems and gemmology,
visit www.gem.org.au
July 2024 | 31

BRAND SPOTLIGHT
Maxum Watches
What does it mean to be an Australian watch brand?
SAMUEL ORD reflects on two decades of keeping the time with Maxum Watches.
T
his is an important year for Australian
watch brand Maxum Watches,
celebrating its 25th anniversary.
Anniversaries are an opportunity to reflect on
significant milestones and plan for the future,
and over more than two decades, Maxum has
achieved a great deal – distributing in excess of
750,000 watches across Australia, New Zealand,
and around the world.
It’s unique to be an Australian watch brand.
Comprehensive research by Jeweller has
established that there are 2,500 individual
watch brands internationally; only around 15
of those can claim to be an ‘Australian brand’.
This means that Australia’s place on the global
watchmaking stage is minute – to say the least!
Identity becomes increasingly important when
you’re a relatively small player in a fiercely
competitive global market.
Many Australian brands have attempted to
draw their line in the sand in the past.
Some have attempted to become known for
elegant and sophisticated designs, while others
focus on durable and functional timepieces
suitable for everyday wear.
And then there’s Maxum Watches! Founded in 1999
by Justin Veil, who is also on the executive board of
Designa Accessories, the brand has selected five
vital cultural pillars as the foundation of its identity:
fashion, sport, art, music, and film.
Collaborations with prominent figures in these
fields have been the compass for Maxum
Watches, repeatedly reshaping the brand and
building connections with new audiences.
While the brand’s place in the retail market
is enviable, it came from humble beginnings.
TWO DECADES OF MAXUM WATCHES
Start the clock
The origins of Maxum Watches as a brand are
intricately connected to a fashion label from a
foregone era of Australian culture: Mambo Graphics.
Founded in the 1980s, Mambo is an Australian
clothing company that became a counter-culture
icon. The brand has produced a range of
products over the years, including watches.
Well-known for juvenile and edgy designs —
rendered largely irrelevant once the extremes
of the internet became increasingly accessible
— the brand was a sensation in Australia.
The origins of Maxum
Watches as a brand are
intricately connected to a
fashion label from a
foregone era of Australian
culture: Mambo Graphics.
Designa Accessories designed, developed, and
distributed Mambo Watches for seven years before
Veil founded Maxum Watches. Mambo had a strict
retail philosophy: it was only sold in surf stores
because of its connection with that target audience.
In essence, Mambo didn’t want to ‘sell out’
by appearing in major department stores.
Veil explains that he had a strong business
relationship with Myer at the time, and the
retailer desperately wanted Mambo on its shelves.
“We were doing a significant amount of business
with Myer," he says.
"Every time we would meet with them,
they would tell us that we had to talk to
Mambo, and Myer had to have that brand.
“I kept explaining that we couldn’t do it; it went
against the brand’s entire philosophy of working
with independent retailers, and Mambo would never
accept that. After getting particularly irritated, the
Myer staff threw us a proposal one afternoon.
“Why don’t you make us a bloody watch brand
then?” the Myer staff asked.
Veil says he didn’t think much of the idea
until discussing it further with his staff
over the next few weeks.
After finally committing to the concept, several
brand managers brainstormed ideas
for a watch brand that could appeal to the
market Mambo dominated at the time.
It was decided that some core principles would
need to be in place, namely that the watches
should be built for a surf and outdoor lifestyle.
A meeting to pitch the brand was scheduled with
Myer, and Veil says he initially felt very unprepared
on arrival, armed with only a handful of design
sketches and some bold ideas.
“They absolutely loved it. They put it in an order
based on pictures,” he recalls laughing.
“I guess it was exactly what they were looking for.
It wasn’t long before we had around 400 retailers
stocking Maxum.
"We never set out to call the brand ‘cool’ because
as soon as you call it cool, it’s not. But we were very
proud of what we sold.
“We were in independent stores and department
stores without any shame, and it started to bring
customers from surf stores into department stores.”
Appearing on shelves in independent and
department stores was a notable ‘crossing
of the Rubicon’ for a brand like Maxum.
2000 2002 2004 2008
32 | July 2024

For example, brands other than Mambo,
such as Oakley, resisted appearing in department
stores to preserve that counter-culture appeal.
“It was pretty simple at the time. If you were cool,
you didn’t appear in department stores. Ripcurl
was a huge example of this," Veil remembers.
"Ripcurl was nearly the number one selling watch
in Australia at the time.
“Maxum Watches started as a brand for department
stores, and after a year or so, Surf Dive ‘n’ Ski
approached us and said they wanted the brand.
It snowballed from there, and over the next five
years, we experienced tremendous growth.”
Many hands make light work
Now, 25 years later, Maxum Watches faces the
same challenges as other unique Australian
watch brands.
Australia has a relatively small domestic market
compared with larger countries, and forging
a connection with a sufficient customer base
can be difficult. There’s also fierce competition
from international, well-established brands with
overwhelming global recognition.
Building brand awareness and developing effective
marketing strategies is also crucial for Australian
brands, and limited marketing budgets can make it
difficult to reach target audiences efficiently.
Veil says Maxum Watches has developed effective
strategies to overcome these hurdles.
“I don’t think of things like that as unique issues
facing watch brands. It’s a brand like any other,”
he explains.
“It’s really important to put the financial support
behind ventures like Maxum Watches, which
typically involves marketing. It comes down to
money and effort more than anything.
“The types of collaborations we focus on reinforce
our Australian heritage which is a key selling point.
"We’re proud to be designed in Australia, for an
Australian lifestyle; that’s how the brand has made it
this far. That’s also how we will expand in the future.”
The brand's most recent collaboration is with an
indie rock band: Maxum x Hockey Dad.
This partnership has produced the Base Camp
model, a sleek silver 44mm dial with a blue
bezel and a blue smooth silicone strap coupled
with 200M water resistance. There’s also the
Burning Sand model in black.
The company is anticipating the release of its next
collaboration with Taylor Steele, an Emmy awardwinning
film director. Steele has been in the surf film
industry for more than 20 years.
The Maxum x Taylor Steele model will be released
as part of the Summer 2024 Collection, and will
also coincide with Taylor’s appointment as creative
director for Maxum.
These two collaborations are the latest in a
long line of carefully selected projects.
Previous ambassadors include Daniel McPherson
(actor), Gian Rooney (swimmer), Mark Matthews
(surfer), Richie Vass (surfer and UFC fighter), and
Matt Rodgers (rugby league).
“With the collaborations we’ve launched recently
– including the project with Hockey Dad – we’ve
generated great interest from local media,” he said.
“It’s possible to create significant connections
between bands and brands, the support can be
fantastic, and leaning into that angle of being a
proudly homegrown business resonates well.
“I think in the future, we’ll be able to take these
kinds of projects even further.”
Function and form
There's an intriguing conceptual issue facing
brands such as Maxum Watches. In the timeless
wrestle between function and form, function has
been rendered largely irrelevant for watches.
In other words, very few people wear watches
today to know the time. Most people carry
smartphones and smartwatches, which are
more of a media device than a watch.
This transition began before the widespread
adoption of smartwatches among consumers,
and watches have always been viewed as
men’s jewellery to a degree.
That aside, why do so many people still wear
watches if the primary purpose of the products
is to know the time?
The answer, of course, is fashion.
With so much of men’s jewellery focused on
minimalism, there are limited opportunities to
‘flash some cash’ in front of friends, family, or
potential romantic partners. Watches are a
rare exception to this rule.
While this might seem like common sense for
most readers, it poses an interesting challenge
for watch brands. How do you sell a product
with a core function no one needs?
“We’ve always thought of Maxum Watches
as a fashion piece. We’ve never really thrown
ourselves against competitors like Seiko, Citizen,
or any other traditional watch brands that
have kept a focus on telling the time,” Veil explains.
“So, the way that you combat this change in
consumer preferences is by designing hot
watches. Watches that make blokes out
shopping on a Saturday afternoon stop in their
tracks because they want it. It’s as simple as that.”
Maxum Watches' two-decade journey is a
compelling case study that underscores the
pivotal role of identity and strategic collaboration
in business. It isn't easy to establish a presence
in a small market defined by a competitive industry
dominated by well-established international rivals.
Despite these challenges, the brand has achieved
international recognition by striking a balance
between staying true to its cultural roots and
evolving with consumer preferences over 25 years
of significant change in consumer preference.
2010 2014 2016 2018
July 2024 | 33

ADDENDUM TO THE
2024 STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT
Money Laundering &
Counter-Terrorism Financing: Part Two
Proposed changes to the anti-money laundering and counter-terrorism financing regime have been
proposed by the Attorney General’s Department. With this in mind, learn more about a high-profile
court case between the Australian Taxation Office and Pallion Group.
670
Large companies in
Australia that paid
no tax in the 2014-15
financial year.
The concept of a
'voidable' transaction is
crucial to the court case
between the ATO and
Pallion Group.
KEY FINDINGS: AT A GLANCE
A Special Purpose
Liquidator is appointed
in circumstances where
it is desirable that
the function is not
performed by the acting
liquidator.
$600m
Increase in turnover for
EBS & Associates in
just two years.
When the first rumours emerged
around 2013 about a legal dispute
over Australian Taxation Office (ATO)
payments in the gold sector, most people assumed
it was due to confusion about GST law.
Few people would have predicted that the case would
still be going through the courts more than a decade
later, courtesy of Pallion Group.
There are many other reasons why the details of
this affair should be analysed, given that it, along
with other cases of GST fraud in the gold sector that
have resulted in jail sentences, may have contributed
to new Australian anti-money laundering and
counter-terrorism financing laws that will impact
the entire industry.
Pallion is the largest precious metals services group
in Australia. It offers the jewellery industry bullion
trading, refining and minting, casting and custom
jewellery, findings, goldsmithing, and silversmithing.
ASIC records show six directors of Pallion Group
Pty Ltd: Andrew and Phillip Cochineas, Philip
Williams, Jane (Janie) Simpson, Francis Gregg, and
Andrew Robinson.
The legal dispute is complex and has dragged
through the courts for 10 years. It has included
various appeals, with each side claiming ‘victory’
at different stages.
The case has generated more than 44,000
documents containing more than 50,000 pages
and has even been reduced to debating the
word ‘refining’.
Suffice to say that Jeweller will not attempt to
comprehensively explain the legal complexities
of the case.
However, if a snapshot could provide insight
into the root cause of the dispute, then it is an
ABC News report. In December 2016, the ATO
named 670 large companies, stating they paid no
corporate tax in the 2014-15 financial year.
The list included ABC Refinery (a Pallion-related
company) and revealed that the company generated
$644 million in income and paid no tax.
Special friendship: Cochineas and Catanzariti
The stoush dates back to 2014 when the ATO
attempted to collect GST payments from EBS
& Associates.
How that came about and where the legal
dispute is today makes for interesting reading.
It involves a long list of people, companies, and
their subsidiaries; too many to include here.
The intricate details begin in 2012 and involve
several businesses run by Adrian Catanzariti —
Italian Prestige Jewellery Pty Ltd, Premium Metal
Service Pty Ltd, Antel Metals Pty Ltd, 4 Nines Pty Ltd,
and A1 Metals Pty Ltd — together called IPJ Group.
IPJ is described as the ‘first client’ of EBS &
Associates – a Pallion Group company.
The large value and frequency of gold transactions
by IPJ Group were documented, as were the pricing
of the gold.
The coincidental timing of payments, and deliveries
of precious metal followed by deliveries of scrap gold
were also noted in the report.
Court documents detail a “special friendship
between the Cochineas brothers and the
Catanzariti brothers.”
The documents also detail EBS & Associates’
extraordinary sales growth over three years and
detail how its turnover “increased dramatically” —
from $63 million during the last five months of the
2012 financial year to approximately $595 million
the following year.
This is an increase of around $465 million (based
on a full year estimate of $130 million in 2012).
The company’s turnover increased by another
$150 million in the ensuing 12 months, reaching
approximately $746 million in the 2014 financial year.
This indicates an increase in turnover across two
years of more than $600 million.
The Commissioner of Taxation’s position was that
these businesses entered or carried out a scheme
with the sole or dominant purpose of EBS &
Associates receiving a GST benefit from the scheme,
namely the input tax credits for its acquisitions.
The Court documents go further, alleging that
“Mr [Andrew] Cochineas and [director] Ms Simpson
– but especially Mr Cochineas – were on notice
(and in some cases had actual knowledge) of the
fraudulent activities.
“Mr Cochineas did not take any steps before us
to correct answers he had previously given in
compulsory examinations that appeared to be
incomplete or inaccurate and that were inconsistent
with his affidavit evidence.
"Mr Cochineas is disingenuous in denying in
his affidavit the existence of any suspicions about
the fraudulent activities of the IPJ Group entities.”
As mentioned, the case has generated more
than 44,000 documents containing more than
50,000 pages and has even been reduced to
debating the word ‘refining’."
Cochineas is CEO of Pallion Group and was
described as an “astute businessman”.
$800m
$600m
$400m
$200m
$0m
$130m
$595m
$746m
2011-2012 2012-2013 2013-2014
CHART 1: Federal Court documents show EBS &
Associates turnover increased by more than $600 million in
two years. 2012 year is an estimate based on five months.
34 | July 2024

2024 STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT
MONEY LAUNDERING & COUNTER-TERRORISM
ANDREW COCHINEAS
PAUL COCHINEAS
Therefore, it was “highly unlikely [he] was unaware
that the IPJ Group was somehow exploiting ‘GST
loopholes’ in circumstances where the GST issues
were a topic of special interest to Mr Cochineas and
the applicant from, at the latest, early 2012.”
That said, it should be noted from the outset that
Federal Court documents acknowledge that Andrew
Cochineas and/or Pallion subsidiaries were not party
to the complex fraud, including EBS & Associates,
which was placed in liquidation and renamed ‘ACN 154
520 199’, and referred to as ACN154.
However, the documents detail the Commissioner’s
position; he “was not alleging that ACN 154 [EBS &
Associates] was a party to the fraud being perpetrated
by the Division 165 Supplying Entities, but he was
alleging that ACN 154 was a willing and informed
beneficiary of the scheme, because it received the
benefit of input tax credits in connection with its
acquisitions of this suspiciously rich and surging
taxable supply of scrap gold.”
Further, “Mr Cochineas was ACN 154’s principal
witness and provided two affidavits as well as oral
evidence at the hearing. He was cross-examined at
length during the Tribunal hearing.”
Victory and defeat for Pallion
PHILLIP COCHINEAS
JANIE SIMPSON
The details above are from documents following
an appeal to the Federal Court EBS & Associates
in November 2020 to overturn the ATO’s previous
successful litigation.
His appeal was subsequently accepted and was
based on “a question of law from a decision of the
Administrative Appeals Tribunal”.
That is, in December 2019, the ATO had an important
victory when its $250 million assessment against EBS/
ACN154 was upheld by the Administrative Appeals
Tribunal (AAT).
At the time, Deputy Commissioner Will Day said,
“The Tribunal found that these artificial arrangements
dealing in gold were a tax-driven scheme.
"This decision clearly supports the ATO’s work in
tackling schemes in the precious metals refining
industry aimed at manipulating the GST treatment
of gold.”
However, 12 months later, that decision was struck
down when the Federal Court ruled in favour of
Cochineas regarding procedural fairness pertaining
to two emails tendered as evidence.
"In our view, the Tribunal’s reliance on the two emails
in circumstances where Mr Cochineas was not a
party to the emails, was not cross-examined on the
documents and the documents were not the subject
of any submissions by the parties, constituted a denial
of procedural fairness,” the decision reads.
“While it is true that the documents were included
in the Hearing Book without objection, in the
circumstances, it could not have been reasonably
expected that the Tribunal would rely on these
documents to form an adverse view as to Mr
Cochineas’s credit or to make adverse knowledge
findings against ACN 154.”
The court ruled that the Tribunal denied ACN 154
procedural fairness and that the denial was material.
Justices Perram, Moshinsky and Thawley made
the following orders to the effect that (a) the appeal
be allowed, (b) the December 2019 decision of
the Tribunal be set aside, and (c) the matter be
remitted to the Tribunal (differently constituted) for
determination according to law.
A cost order was awarded in favour of EBS/ACN 154.
With that said, if Cochineas believed the success of
his appeal in 2020 would bring the matter to an end,
he was mistaken.
In July last year, the ATO had another victory in the
Federal Court, where it was granted the right to
appoint Special Purpose Liquidators (SPL) for EBS
& Associates, which, as mentioned, was placed in
liquidation and renamed ‘ACN 154 520 199’, and
referred to as ACN154.
Why? Well, according to Justice Goodman, the original
liquidator appointed to EBS/ACN154 was conflicted, or
at least appeared to be so.
Essential understanding
One of the most important words in the hundreds
of thousands that appear in court filings for this
case is the word ‘voidable’.
A ‘voidable transaction’ can be described as a
payment or a transfer of property/assets to a related
(or unrelated) third party that either occurred when a
company was insolvent or otherwise disadvantaged
the company.
When a company is facing insolvency and cannot meet
its debts, it can be placed under administration of
which there are two types: voluntary or involuntary.
The former is typically done by the company directors,
whereas the latter is usually done by the creditors, as
a process to be paid what they claim they are owed.
The administrator’s role is to act independently
and to establish whether the company should be
restructured, sold, or, if there is little or no chance of
survival, wound up (liquidated).
The liquidator’s responsibility is to distribute the
company’s assets while ensuring that no creditors
are being unfairly advantaged and/or disadvantaged.
This can happen through unfair preferences,
uncommercial transactions, unfair loans to a company,
and unreasonable director-related transactions.
If any of these can be established as having taken
place prior to the appointment of an administrator/
liquidator, then there is power under the Corporations
Act 2001 (Cth) to void these transactions.
As mentioned, this is done to ensure that assets are
distributed fairly amongst creditors. Court documents
described a phoenix operation: “The directors and
shareholders of the related entities were the same
as the directors and shareholders of the company
and it was alleged the transferee may be a ‘phoenix'
company”.
2011
29 NOVEMBER
TIMELINE OF EVENTS
Pallion Group
Palabc Holdings Pty Ltd (later EBS & Associates Pty Ltd) is
incorporated with the directors being Andrew Cochineas,
Philip Cochineas, Jane Simpson and Francis Gregg
(Simpson's father).
2012
02 FEBRUARY
Palabc Holdings Pty Ltd is renamed EBS & Associates Pty
Ltd for, broadly described, the acquisition and refining of
gold, silver and other valuable materials into fine metal.
2014
JULY
The Australian Taxation Office (ATO) commences an audit
into EBS & Associates' GST affairs.
2015
07 AUGUST
A new company - ABC Refinery (Australia) Pty Ltd - is
incorporated. The directors at the date of its incorporation
were the same people who were the directors of EBS &
Associates, together with Mr Paul Cochineas. The shares
in the Company were all owned by Pallion Group Pty Ltd
a company incorporated on 3 November 2014 whose
directors were the same persons as the directors of EBS &
Associates, together with Mr Philip Williams.
01 SEPTEMBER
At the time EBS & Associates was under audit as to its GST
affair it transfers its business and assets to ABC Refinery.
(This will become known as "September 2015 transaction")
NOVEMBER
The ATO commences an audit into ABC Refinery's
GST affairs.
2016
APRIL
The audit into EBS & Associates' GST affairs concludes.
The ATO issues notices of amended assessment to EBS &
Associates for more $122 million and notices of penalties
totalling more than $58 million.
EBS & Associates objects to the notices. The challenge
reached the Full Court of the Federal Court before it was
remitted to the Administrative Appeals Tribunal.
22 SEPTEMBER
Shortly after the ATO disallowed EBS & Associates’
objections, EBS & Associates entered into a creditors’
voluntary liquidation.
Timeline continued next page »
NOTE: Jeweller's timelines are compiled through comprehensive
research drawn from respected sources. They serve as a record
of significant events within the watch and jewellery industry.
July 2024 | 35

2024 STATE OF THE INDUSTRY REPORT
MONEY LAUNDERING & COUNTER-TERRORISM
2017
06 APRIL
Special purpose liquidators (Rahul Goyal and Jennifer
Nettleton of KordaMentha) are appointed to investigate
EBS & Associates' September 2015 transaction. However,
more legal action ensued.
JULY
The ATO issued notices of assessment to the Company
and on 27 July 2017, the Company lodged objections
against some of the notices of assessment.
16 AUGUST
A new company titled ABCRA Pty Ltd was incorporated.
Its directors were and remain Andrew Cochineas,
Philip Cochineas, Francis Gregg and Jane Simpson.
Its sole shareholder is Pallion Group.
01 SEPTEMBER
EBS & Associates changed its name from ABC Refinery
(Australia) Pty Ltd to ACN 607 537 548 Pty Ltd and
ABCRA Pty Ltd changed its name to ABC Refinery
(Australia) Pty Ltd (ABCRA2).
Then EBS & Associates and ABCRA2 entered into
agreements and transferred all of its business, goodwill
and assets to ACBRA2. All of the directors of the
Company ceased to hold that office, with the exception of
Andrew Cochineas.
This will become known as the "September 2017
transaction."
27 OCTOBER
EBS & Associates lodges further objections against notices
of assessment.
13 NOVEMBER
Pallion Group transferred its shares in EBS & Associates
to a company titled ACN 133 769 187 Pty Ltd which is a
company Andrew Cochineas has been at all material times
the sole shareholder and director.
15 NOVEMBER
A new liquidator is appointed for EBS & Associates.
The appointment was made at the instigation of the
Company’s sole shareholder Andrew Cochineas.
28 NOVEMBER
The liquidator provides his first report to creditors.
He discloses that he had been referred by Andrew
Robinson of Robinson Legal in his capacity as solicitor
for the Company and he had pre-appointment dealings
with Andrew Robinson, Andrew Cochineas and/
or Philip Cochineas on seven occasions in November.
Andrew Cochineas advises the liquidator that he would
provide an upfront payment of $20,000 as a contribution
toward the cost of litigation and that further monies
and/or indemnities were likely to be provided for further
litigation in relation to the challenges to the objection
decisions; and the liquidator did not consider that the
referral to him by Andrew Robinson placed him in a
position of conflict of interest or duty.
DECEMBER
The ATO foreshadows applying for special purpose
liquidators to investigate the September 2017 transaction.
Timeline continued opposite page »
Show me the money
EBS & Associates directors were Andrew Cochineas,
Philip Cochineas, Jane (Janie) Simpson and Francis
Gregg (Simpson’s father).
As detailed above, in July 2014, the ATO commenced
an audit of the company’s GST affairs and issued
assessments against EBS & Associates on 8 April
2016 seeking around $208 million.
EBS & Associates lodged an objection on 26 April.
Four months later on 21 September, the ATO
disallowed the objection, and the following day, the
company resolved that a creditors’ voluntary winding
up would occur and a liquidator was appointed.
The total amount owed to unsecured creditors
was $209,160,691 - 99.5 per cent of which was a
GST debt to the ATO ($208 million).
Four of the company’s directors — the Cochineas
brothers (Andrew and Phillip), Jane Simpson, and
Francis Gregg — were listed as unsecured creditors
for $187,000 each ($748,000), along with a group of
industry-related creditors.
Pallion Group was listed as a secured creditor
for $393,800, along with Robinson Legal — a firm
associated with Pallion Group director Andrew
Robinson — which was also recorded as a secured
creditor for $200,000.
Therefore, of the almost $210 million owing to
secured and unsecured creditors, ‘related party’
creditors amounted to $1.3 million, less than 1 per
cent of the total.
Engaged in misconduct
As previously explained, in November 2020, the
Federal Court overturned the ATO’s previous
successful litigation against EBS & Associates.
Cochineas had successfully appealed and the
decision was based on “a question of law from a
decision of the Administrative Appeals Tribunal”.
However, if Cochineas and Simpson — the two who
have received special mention by the ATO — believed
the success of the November 2020 appeal would end
the matter, they were mistaken.
On 31 July 2023, the ATO had another Federal
Court victory, granting it the right to appoint
Special Purpose Liquidators (SPL).
A SPL is appointed by the Court to carry out a
specific function in circumstances where it is
desirable that the function is not performed by
the acting liquidator.
Editor’s note: At various times throughout the
decade-long case, court documents refer to two
liquidators of Pallion-related businesses; however,
in the best interests of brevity and simplified
understanding this article does not distinguish
between the two firms.
In one matter, court documents show that the
liquidator “had been referred to him by Mr Andrew
Robinson of Robinson Legal in his capacity as
solicitor for the Company”.
Robinson is a director of Pallion Group.
Cochineas offered to fund the liquidator, whose
first report, dated 28 November 2017, stated: “Mr
Andrew Cochineas had advised the liquidator that
he would provide an upfront payment of $20,000
as a contribution toward the cost of litigation and
that further monies and/or indemnities were likely
to be provided for further litigation in relation to
the challenges to the objection decisions; and the
liquidator did not consider that the referral to him
by Mr Andrew Robinson placed him in a position of
conflict of interest or duty.”
Ten weeks later, on 14 February 2018, the liquidator
issued his second creditor report stating that he
had undertaken preliminary investigations which
indicated possible misconduct by directors.
The report raised an issue concerning the liquidation
and sale of assets in September 2017: “[It] may be
a voidable transaction; and the company’s officers
may have engaged in misconduct”.
The report stated that the ‘related entities’ had
proposed that the liquidator “enter into a funding
agreement with Pallion to cover the cost of
investigating the notices of assessment.”
The liquidator also raised the possibility of
conducting examinations of the directors of EBS &
Associates if the creditors were prepared to provide
funding for him to do so. The funding request was
for $150,000.
Creditor records showed that of the $209 million, 99
per cent of it was owed to the ATO which could mean
that, as the major creditor, the ATO was being asked
to stump up money for a liquidator - who had been
appointed by the company directors - to investigate
the company directors.
The ATO would not have a bar of this and it formed
the basis of the next legal battle, which it won.
Unacceptable: Legal reasoning
In his July 2023 ruling to allow the ATO to appoint
a SPL, Justice Goodman indicated that the ATO
was not willing to fund the liquidator to undertake
further investigations of the September 2017
transaction because:
• The liquidator was effectively appointed by
Andrew Cochineas, a director of the company,
the sole director and shareholder and a
director of Pallion
• The liquidator was appointed on the referral of
Andrew Robinson, also a director of Pallion, and
the solicitor for the Company and the Company
that prepared the documents for the September
2015 transaction
• The liquidator had pre-appointment contact on a
number of occasions with Andrew Cochineas and
Andrew Robinson
• The liquidator had lodged objections against
the ATO notices of assessment issued against
the Company and commenced a proceeding
on behalf of it challenging the disallowance of
those objections
• The liquidator had received funding from
Pallion Group to object to the decisions and, was
presumably, taking instructions from, liaising with,
or reporting to the directors of Pallion including
Andrew Cochineas
• It was preferable that the investigations into
the September 2017 transaction be conducted
by a liquidator who is and who is going to remain
independent of the persons standing behind the
Company and its related entities including Pallion
Appearance of a liquidator conflict
In his decision to grant the order, Justice Goodman
wrote: “I was satisfied that there was an available
perception that the liquidator, if funded to undertake
the investigation, might be in a position of conflict
in circumstances where: the liquidator had been
funded by interests associated with Mr Andrew
Cochineas to challenge the objection decisions;
and part of the investigation will be, as the
36 | July 2024

liquidator has identified, an investigation into
the conduct of Mr Andrew Cochineas and
interests associated with him.
“It was not necessary for the Court to form a
view that the liquidator is, or will likely be, in a
position of conflict. Rather, it was sufficient that
an appearance of conflict existed sufficient to
compromise confidence in the position of the
liquidator.”
The Federal Court Order appointed Rahul Goyal
and Jennifer Nettleton of KordaMentha as Special
Purpose Liquidators to investigate the September
2017 transaction.
According to its website, KordaMentha specialises
in financial crime, risk management and compliance
reviews. The firm assists with investigations into
violations of anti-money laundering and counterterrorism
financing legislation.
Where to from here?
The Federal Court Order rules that any loans,
lease agreements or assignments, general security
agreements, 'directions to pay', and any other
arrangements involving various Pallion-related
companies can be investigated.
The SPL can also probe any dealings with the London
Bullion Market Association (LBMA) regarding the
Good Delivery List accreditation and transfer of that
accreditation.
The LMBA lists approved gold and silver refineries
that meet specific minimum criteria, such as age, net
worth, and production volume.
They must also demonstrate the business’ ability to
produce Good Delivery bars.
ABC Refinery (Australia) Pty Ltd heads that list.
Listed companies agree to submit to monitoring
by the LBMA, and listed companies that refuse to
participate in regular monitoring are removed from
the Good Delivery List.
After a decade of legal manoeuvring - with wins and
losses on both sides - the case appears to revolve
around one word: ‘voidable’.
In other words, is the liquidation of EBS & Associates
- and the resulting sale of its assets and the transfer
of LBMA accreditation to Pallion-related entities
- a voidable transaction? That’s an assessment for
special purpose liquidators Goyal and Nettleton.
For the six directors of Pallion Group, particularly
Andrew Cochineas and Janie Simpson, it's the
Australian jewellery industry’s $200 million question.
Trust and transparency
On PAGES 35-37 is a timeline detailing important
events over the past 10 years.
These details are missing from the Pallion website -
and the chronological history detailed on Wikipedia
- leading to the appointment of KordaMentha as
Special Purpose Liquidators acting for the ATO,
which is still chasing more than $200 million in
outstanding GST payments.
Worthy of special notation is that in March 2016,
Pallion Group joined the Responsible Jewellery
Council (RJC).
At the time the ATO was undertaking two tax
investigations into its companies.
The next month - April 2016 - the ATO's audit
into EBS & Associates concluded, resulting in
an assessment for more $122 million and notices
of penalties totalling more than $58 million.
EBS CREDITOR'S LIST
The Creditor's List of EBS & Associates. The Australian
Taxation Office accounts for more than 99 per cent of all debt.
The RJC website states: "We play a crucial
role in promoting responsible practices and
ethical standards within the jewellery and watch
industry. Through our standards, certification and
collaborative initiatives, the RJC aims to build
trust, transparency, and sustainability across the
entire jewellery and watch supply chain, ultimately
benefiting consumers, communities, and the
environment."
The RJC's Code of Practices state: "Our vision is a
responsible worldwide supply chain that promotes
trust in the global fine jewellery and watch industry”.
Two of the Code's key requirements include:
• Improving legal and regulatory compliance,
strengthen public reporting and secure a
commitment to responsible business practices
• Promote anti-corruption efforts and manage
sourcing risks
On 3 November 2022 the RJC renewed the
membership as “Palloys Pty Ltd (formerly Pallion
Group Pty Ltd)” for a further three years.
SOIR ADDENDUM EXPLAINED
This article is an addendum to the State of the Industry
Report
published in December 2023. The purpose of the
six-month study into the Australian jewellery industry is
two-fold – it’s a historical document offering an in-depth
examination of the trade from which a glimpse of the future
may be obtained.
As is often the case with studies of this nature, the research
often uncovers unexpected insights. These include significant
changes due to advances in technology, the evolution of
consumer habits and expectations, and the unforeseen
impact of an unprecedented global pandemic.
In some cases, the space allocated to specific sections of
the report was insufficient because of the additional detail
and information obtained. This article is one such case
where it was noted that the Attorney General Department's
proposed changes to anti-money laundering and counterterrorism
financing laws would have a significant impact on
the jewellery industry.
There is a host of additional information uncovered
during the SOIR research period, which was also unable
to be included in the initial report due to space and time
limitations. Jeweller
will continue to publish addendums to
the SOIR to analyse and clarify an ever-changing industry.
2018
12 FEBRUARY
The liquidator for EBS & Associates lodges further
objections against notices of assessment.
14 FEBRUARY
The liquidator issued his second report to creditors and
indicates potential misconduct by the Company's officers
and proposes an investigation. He advises the September
2017 transaction may be a voidable transaction; and also
stated that “related entities” had proposed that he enter
into a funding agreement with Pallion Group to cover the
cost of investigating the notices of assessment.
16 APRIL
The liquidator issued his third report to creditors and
states that he had received a proposal from Pallion Group
and Andrew Cochineas to fund an investigation into the
legitimacy of the ATO’s notices of assessment and, if
appropriate, to challenge those notices.
24 APRIL
The liquidator for EBS & Associates argues for
investigating both the September 2017 transaction and
the notices of assessment acknowledging the tension
between the positions of the ATO and Pallion Group.
01 MAY
The ATO expresses concerns about a potential conflict
of interest if the liquidator is funded by Pallion Group
given that Pallion Group had been involved in the
September 2017 transaction, which may be voidable.
16 MAY
The liquidator's proposal for funding by Pallion
Group is approved with his casting vote. Further
correspondence occurs between the ATO and the
liquidator regarding funding and conflict of interest.
2022
05 APRIL
The ATO determines the objections lodged by
EBS & Associates, mostly disallowing them.
02 JUNE
EBS & Associates appeals the ATO's decisions.
2023
24 APRIL
The liquidator for EBS & Associates requests an
indemnity from the ATO to fund investigations.
07 JUNE
The ATO rejects the indemnity request.
21-28 JULY
Correspondence between the ATO and the liquidator
regarding the ATO's application to the Federal Court
of Australia for special purpose liquidators.
31 JULY
The Court appoints special purpose liquidators
to investigate the September 2017 transaction
due to concerns about potential conflict of interest
with the existing liquidator. The ATO agrees to
fund the investigation.
July 2024 | 37

Discover timeless elegance at
Athan Wholesale Jewellers, located
in Melbourne's iconic Manchester
Unity Building. Since 1998, we have
been supplying Australian and New
Zealand retailers with the finest
Italian gold chains and accessories.
With a rich heritage in the industry,
our family-run business offers a
carefully curated collection of 9- and
18-carat gold pieces. From timeless
chains to tennis mounts and
bracelets, each item is meticulously
crafted in Italy.
Experience exceptional quality and
service at Athan Wholesale Jewellers,
where tradition meets contemporary
style.
03 9663 2321
INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU
WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU
602/220 38 COLLINS | ST, July MELBOURNE 2024
VIC 3000

FEATURE
Thick or Thin
David Yurman
When decorating a neckline, there are always two
choices: thick or thin? SAMUEL ORD discusses the
increasing significance of bold chains and necklaces.
July 2024 | 39

FEATURE | Thick or Thin
GUCCI
HORSEBIT LONG CHAIN
NECKLACE
DAVID YURMAN
MADISON COLLECTION
FOUNDRAE
STRONG HEART CHAIN
FOPE
LUNA COLLECTION
At the very heart of jewellery design lies
self-expression. When making a bold
statement about taste and style, few
can rival the impact of a captivating neckline.
With that in mind, an important question has
always been asked of consumers and retailers
alike: thick or thin?
It’s a debate that reflects diverse attitudes
towards style, functionality, and preference –
and there’s a great deal at stake for consumers
and retailers.
For consumers, the dream is to express
themselves appropriately through fashion.
For retailers, the mission is to make that dream a
reality by offering the right assortment of products.
Thick necklaces, with their bold presence, instil
confidence and power.
They stand out as the centrepiece of any outfit,
transforming even the simplest ensemble into a
statement of elegance.
Those passionate about thick necklaces and
bold chains argue that the striking impression
they leave means they can be worn as a
standalone piece, requiring little support to
complete the look.
Conversely, thin necklaces whisper a story of
delicate elegance and understated charm.
They effortlessly complement a wide range of
styles and are equally versatile.
Thin necklaces and chains are adored for their
ability to be layered gracefully.
This allows wearers to create intricate personal
arrangements that reinforce individuality.
Said another way, it’s a touch of refinement
without compromising or overwhelming
overall appearance.
Ultimately, the choice between thick and thin
necklaces rests on individual taste.
Some consumers, and indeed retailers,
will consistently be drawn to the imposing
presence of thick chains, while others will
favour the subtle charm of thinner necklaces.
Back to the future
In recent months, there has been considerable
discussion about the revival of 1980s fashion
among modern consumers, particularly the
younger crowd.
“It’s a debate that reflects diverse
attitudes towards style, functionality,
and preference and there’s a great deal
at stake for consumers and retailers."
Bold colours and designs and a relentless fusion
of global influences characterised the fashion
landscape of the 1980s.
It was an era of excess, where self-expression
was celebrated through outlandish style and
innovative trends.
“Fashion is dictated by two things: war and
music. WWII saw the rise of women entering
the workforce, filling roles that required more
suiting and utilitarian styles," writes Kyle
Lamar Rice of Rolling Stone.
"The traditional suit jacket became feminine:
nipped-in waist and rounded shoulders, all
constructed in lighter fabrics. Thus, Dior’s
Bar Jacket was born.
"Inversely, post-war groups like punks and
hippies influenced rebellious styles, introducing
denim and leather into the mainstream."
He continues: "So, as 80s trends cycle back
into fashion, it comes as no surprise why. Boxy
blazers and suits inspire ideas of power dressing
as Gen Z enters the workforce.
"Spandex and athletic wear have become popular
as culture obsesses over monetising self-image,
and global warming has led to more secondhand
shopping for durable fabrics like denim."
Jewellery was crucial in making a bold fashion
statement during this era.
Fashion jewellery became increasingly popular,
as did gold jewellery – both real and imitation.
Yellow gold chains, bracelets, and earrings were
adopted for their luxurious appearance and
timeless appeal.
Gold-plated jewellery offered a more affordable
alternative for those looking to emulate.
These pieces often featured bold designs,
such as geometric shapes or abstract motifs,
reflecting the decade's dynamic aesthetic.
With the resurgence of 1980s fashion in recent
years, it’s no surprise that these large statement
pieces have become more commonplace.
“Chunky jewellery is an easy, cool girl accessory,
and we’re excited that it’s here to stay,” writes
Victoria Montali for Refinery29.
40 | July 2024

Discover our
Essential
Collection
Crafted from the
finest materials, our
handmade chains
are locally produced,
ensuring unmatched
quality and durability.
Offered in 9ct or 18ct
gold, with no minimum
order requirement.
Contact our friendly team to enquire
about our meticulously crafted,
made-to-order chain range today
morrisandwatson.com
July 2024 | 41

FEATURE | Thick or Thin
DAVID YURMAN
MULTI ROW CHAIN
UNO DE 50
TIFFANY & CO.
TIFFANY TITAN
“It's an impactful way to add some styling to a
look in a flash.
"And as much as we love layering dainty jewellery,
sometimes the look [or the clock] calls for a quick
statement piece that gets you out the door fast.
“Of course, as the true maximalist knows,
chunky jewellery can also be layered for a real
show-stopping look. Whichever path you choose,
you can't go wrong.”
“It was an era of excess, where
self-expression was celebrated
through outlandish style and
innovative trends."
If you’re looking for bolder chains to add to your
store, you have many options to consider.
Cuban link chains are boldly designed and
renowned for being strong, durable, and highly
reliable, regardless of size.
Rope chains are unique chains featuring a
braided pattern. They are luxurious, but
due to their complexity of design, they
may be hard to repair.
Thicker chains are notably durable. Due to
their soldered links, Figaro gold chains are
highly durable and, on average, some of the
heaviest chains available.
Byzantine chains have existed since 300 BCE,
and it’s easy to see why they’ve been so popular.
Intricate and regal, this chain has a bold
presence and makes a statement all on its own.
While traditionally thin, chokers can also come
in thicker variations. These necklaces sit
comfortably around the neck and can be made
from a range of precious metals - offering an
edgy look.
Thick, collared necklaces and short, heavy
chainlink necklaces have been at the forefront of
jewellery and fashion shows in recent months.
SWAROVSKI
ANOK YAI
These include links that are oversized and
visually cover the throat and décolletage.
“Oversized jewellery and maximalist designs
are everything right now. Among the many big
takeaways we had from the New York Fashion
Week Spring/Summer 2024 shows, this was
one of the most obvious,” writes Bernadette
Roe for Women.
“And it was hard to miss. Runways were
glittering with larger-than-life earrings,
decadent broaches, thick bracelets, and
weighty, statement rings. Cuffs and decorative
belts were everywhere. Clustered jewellery
is major, and everything from nameplate
necklaces to lockets is having a moment.”
She continues: "This doesn't mean that
dainty, minimalist jewellery is gone for
good. It just means that minimalist pieces
act as a foundation to create space for the
one or two major baubles in your look.”
Hanging by a thread
In the end, the choice between thick and thin
necklaces and chains boils down to personal taste.
Some will always gravitate towards the
commanding presence of thick chains,
while others prefer the quiet allure of
their thinner counterparts.
Regardless of preference, both styles contribute
to the rich tapestry of self-expression within the
world of jewellery, offering endless possibilities
for individuals to curate their own unique
statement pieces.
With that said, for now, it's clear that bold
necklaces and chains are having a moment
in the sun.
42 | July 2024

ADVERTISING FEATURE
Buying Guide
Athan
athan.com.au
Meticulously crafted in Italy,
the Omega Necklace can be
worn alone or paired with a
favourite pendant. Available in
yellow gold or two-tone white
and yellow gold, it allows the
wearer to choose the perfect
colour to match their style.
The Figaro chain embodies
timeless sophistication with
its simple, classic design and
nostalgic charm. This premium
range of Italian-made chains,
crafted in 9 and 18-carat white
and yellow gold, is available in
multiple sizes and styles.
Experience contemporary
elegance with the Paperclip
Necklace. Perfect for wearing
alone or layering with other
chains for a modern touch.
Available in 9 and 18-carat
gold, in two different gauges,
and various lengths. Complete
any look with the matching
bracelet and the bestselling
Paperclip Huggie earrings.
Bold Chains
& Necklaces
Adela Imports
adelaimports.com.au
Italian chains and bracelets
featuring bold statement pieces.
Some of the new designs available
feature heavier curb chains up
to 500 gauge, large twisted rope
styles, large belchers including
carved patterned links, and
antique Curb styles.
Help your customers make a statement
with these eye-catching bold chains and
larger-than-life necklaces.
Designa
GUESS
designaaccessories.com.au
Make a sweet statement
with this gold-tone necklace
from GUESS, featuring a
heart crystal motif with
white mother-of-pearl detail.
Pair it with the matching
earrings and bracelet for a
look they won't forget.
Two interlocking circles clasp
one another to form a sparkling
pendant as the centre of a
timeless yellow gold-plated cable
chain necklace. This elegant
necklace makes the perfect
accent to any neckline, with the
Furla 1927 logo and a row of fiery
white pave-set European crystals
adding a touch of dazzle to this
everyday classic.
On trend and easy to style, this
new gold-tone necklace from
GUESS features a gold-tone
dagger pendant and black
coin icon with the iconic G logo
framed in a gold-tone stainless
steel backing. Pair it with the
matching earrings and bracelet
for a bold style statement.
July 2024 | 43

2024 | JULY BUYING GUIDE
Ellendale
ellendalediamonds.com.au
Crafted in 18-carat white and
rose gold, this pendant features a
GIA-certified elongated pear cut
F colour Argyle white diamond, a
lustre Australian South Sea Pearl
and a rare purplish-pink diamond
from the Argyle Mine.
An enchanting pendant in
18-carat white and yellow
gold, crafted to captivate. Its
focal point is a central yellow
diamond, the heart of the piece.
A split diamond-set bail with a
dazzling halo gracefully sweeps
around the captivating centre,
adding a touch of sophistication
and brilliance to this pendant.
Goldcrest
goldcrest.com.au
Gerrim
gerrim.com
Introducing Gerrim
International’s Freshwater Pearl
and Belcher Bracelet in ninecarat
yellow gold. Adorned with
lustrous pearls, elegantly set on
a traditional belcher chain.
Goldcrest Wholesalers has been
operating since 1985, specialising
in handmade production of
nine-carat yellow and rose gold
jewellery. Specialists in solid
fob Chains, bangles, gates and
padlock bracelets, women's neck
chains and bracelets, findings,
earrings and lockets.
Standout from the crowd with
Gerrim International’s nine-carat
Baroque Pearl and Belcher
Bracelet. Featuring organic and
distinctive freshwater baroque
pearls, these lustrous and
organic forms make this bracelet
a true work of art. As individual
as the wearer, this piece makes
a striking and elegant statement
for any occasion.
44 | July 2024

Ikecho
ikecho.com.au
This sterling silver pendant
captures the timeless beauty of
the iconic Boab tree revered by the
Indigenous people of the Kimberley
Region. This elegant piece is
adorned with delicate solid opals,
resembling leaves that shimmer
with a captivating play of light.
S&S
STONES& SILVER
STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY
.935 Sterling Silver Chains
This Keshi pearl glasses chain
is an elegant accessory that
combines the practicality of
a glasses holder with the
timeless beauty of Keshi pearls,
offering a stylish way to keep
your eyewear close at hand.
Mark Mcaskill
markmcaskill.com.au
Stunning nine-carat yellow
gold pendant set with vibrant
rhodolite and Citrine stones,
beautifully accented with white
round brilliant-cut diamonds to
make a captivating statement
of unique elegance.
Crafted in nine-carat yellow
gold, this pendant showcases
a 10mm round cabochon onyx
centre stone surrounded by
a harmonious blend of round
brilliant and baguette-cut
diamonds. Its exquisite design
is sure to delight and inspire.
Ph: +61 458 339 004
stonesandsilver.com.au
July 2024 | 45

2024 | JULY BUYING GUIDE
Pinaroo
Experience the elegance of the
Exquisite Tennis Necklace. Crafted
with meticulous attention to detail,
this piece showcases the brilliance
of premium quality sterling silver.
Each link in this necklace is a
testament to workmanship,
ensuring a durable and lasting shine.
La Couronne
lacouronnejewellery.com.au
La Couronne's collection of exquisite
diamonds is set in nine-carat gold
necklaces. Modern geometric
shapes, elegant florals, and timeless
heart designs cater to both classic
and contemporary styles, ensuring
there's a perfect piece for everyone.
Morris Watson
morrisandwatson.com
Morris & Watson introduce their
new range of handmade chains and
bracelets exclusively fabricated in
New Zealand with quality products
and exceptional workmanship.
Poix & Troy
poixandtroy.com.au
Part of the Great Gatsby collection, this
tassel is inspired by the era of 'Annee
Folles' — the crazy roaring 1920s.
This design, including rubies and
diamonds, makes this tassel a one-of-
a-kind, unique, and elegant pendant.
A fabulous medallion
dedicated to the wife of
the King of the Sun, Louis
XIV of France, Madame De
Pompadour. A magnificent oval
morganite adorns this pendant
with diamonds, amethysts,
and pink tourmalines.
46 | July 2024

JULY BUYING GUIDE | 2024
Inspired by nature, this evening
necklace features a teardropshaped
pink conch pearl at its
centre, symbolising the ocean's
mystery and romance. Diamonds
sparkle like stars, and pink
sapphires glow like the dawn,
meticulously set to showcase
exquisite craftsmanship and
artistic charm.
Purple May
purplemay.com.au
The design is centred around a
magnificent Paraiba gemstone,
vivid in colour and radiant like
neon lights, creating a visual
spectacle. Large diamonds
surround the gemstone and
a diamond-studded chain
surrounds it, showcasing luxury
and sophistication in every detail.
In the azure depths of the ocean,
Akoya pearls meet conch pearls,
creating a unique maritime
sentiment. Both are seawater
pearls, each with its own charm,
intertwining the mystery and
beauty of the sea. Wearing
them not only expresses a love
for natural beauty but also
symbolises a longing for the
ocean's tranquillity.
Features 449 diamonds and
21 Padparadscha sapphires,
totalling 39.31 carats and
41.93 carats, respectively.
The diamonds sparkle with
unparalleled brilliance,
while the Padparadscha
sapphires emit a unique
pink-orange hue.
This brooch doubles as a necklace,
featuring a pear-shaped emerald as
the body of the butterfly. Its wings
are adorned with large emeralds,
diamonds, and yellow and blue
sapphires, creating a vibrant and
colourful display. Whether worn as a
brooch or a necklace, it showcases
exquisite craftsmanship and design.
Features a vibrant, multicoloured
opal at its centre,
resembling a mysterious
ocean. Inspired by the waves of
the sea, the designer crafted
a wave and surf pattern that
accentuates the gem's natural
beauty, making the entire
necklace look like a piece of
the enigmatic ocean.
The Sea Snail necklace
embodies exquisite design
and luxury. Crafted from
18 conch pearls and 270
diamonds, it forms 18 delicate
flowers. The colours and
lustre of the sea snail shells
complement the dazzling
sparkle of the diamonds.
Each flower is meticulously
designed and precisely set.
This intricately crafted necklace
features multiple strands of ruby
beads twisted together to create a
complex and unique design. Inspired
by blossoming flowers, the necklace
features ornate diamond flowers,
resembling exquisite masterpieces in
jewelry art. Each strand of ruby beads
is meticulously woven and precisely
designed, making the necklace a unique
and captivating piece of jewellery.
July 2024 | 47

2024 | JULY BUYING GUIDE
Australia’s #1 Jewellery Directory
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you need a new supplier for your bread and butter items? Or you are looking for a new watch brand?
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48 | July 2024
www.jewellermagazine.com

A contemporary collection
taking inspiration from
nature and the honeybee.
Make a statement with this
beautiful diamond necklace,
featuring a multi-hexagonal
design, 80 centimetres in
length and set with 36 round
brilliant cut diamonds,
made in 18-carat white and
yellow gold.
Soklich & Co. Jewellers
soklichco.com
Discover Soklich & Co.’s new collection
of opal necklaces, each handmade and
custom-designed in Australia. Featuring
Australian opals, nuggets, Broome
Keshi pearls, and gold. Set with a
finishing touch of white and champagne
diamonds for sophistication and luxury.
Stones & Silver
stonesandsilver.com.au
Eye-catching 925 sterling silver necklace
that is 40 centimetres in length, with a
five-centimetre extension featuring a
functional locket and cubic zirconia for
that extra sparkle. Also available in yellow
gold plated over 925 sterling silver.
This is a beautiful 925 sterling
silver ball chain that is 41
centimetres long and has a
seven-centimetre extension. It
features a stunning Freshwater
Pearl. It's also available in
yellow gold plated over 925
sterling silver.
West End Collection
westendcollection.com.au
Bead necklace handmade
from 6mm stones - yellow
Tiger's Eye, blue sodalite, grey
Hematite, blue Tiger's Eye -
with a stainless steel screw
clasp. Length is 55 centimetres.
Sterling 925 silver
rhodium-plated 'rope'
chain, 2mm wide. The
silver pendant in the shape
of an angel's wing is 10mm
wide and 22mm high and
is also great for layering.
The necklace comes in
sizes 50cm and 55cm.
SILVER CHAIN &
JEWELLERY
WHOLESALE
SPECIALISTS
PO BOX 112 TORONTO NSW 2283
02 9380 4742
www.adelaimports.com
July 2024 | 49

OPAL FEATURE
Outback Beauty
The Australian opal industry has a unique and
vibrant history. Learn more about the industry's
origins surrounding the country’s national
gemstone and its increasing popularity abroad.
T
he history of the Australian
gold rush in the 1850s is wellknown
and appreciated.
It all began in 1851 with the first gold discovery
near Bathurst in NSW. This pivotal event set
the stage for the Australian population to
quadruple from 430,000 to 1.7 million by 1871.
When they heard about the discovery of
gold, people traversed the globe and took a
considerable risk, travelling halfway around
the world in search of their fortune. The largest
non-European group of miners were Chinese.
A fact often forgotten — or unappreciated —
is that Melbourne was the fastest-growing
city in the world and, during the 1880s, was
considered the richest city on Earth.
However, not so widely known or appreciated
is that gold was not the only thing that
attracted a large influx of migrants; a similar
thing occurred with the discovery of opal
65 years later.
In January 1915, Jim Hutchison and his
14-year-old son William were in Coober
Pedy searching for gold when they stumbled
across an opal lying on the ground.
Like the first discoveries of gold, opals
quickly began to attract migrants in search
of their fortune; however, unlike gold, the
attraction of opal mining still brings a diverse
range of people to Australia.
For example, the population of Coober Pedy
is a mere 2,500 people; however, it consists
of 45 nationalities.
The Chinese played an important role in the
early days; however, today, the South Australian
town is popular with Sri Lankan, Indian, and
Filipino communities.
DIOR
La D de Dior pink gold with an Australian opal dial
In the 1970s and 1980s, in search of new
products, Hong Kong gemstone buyers
became fascinated with opal.
They began to descend on the outback
town to deal directly with miners.
The opal rough was taken back to Hong Kong
to be cut in factories and sold to consumers
predominantly in the US.
Many of the people of Hong Kong later
became residents of Coober Pedy.
Therefore, is it any wonder that Australia’s
national gemstone has become a significant
focus at various Hong Kong jewellery fairs?
Variation & Variety
Australia currently produces around 95 per
cent of the world's precious opal and probably
has most of the world’s major opal reserves.
Mexico and Brazil are the other traditionally
significant opal producers.
Opal deposits in Slovakia and the Czech
Republic once provided the bulk of the
world’s production for more than 2,000 years.
Other countries where opal has been recorded
include Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, the
western US, Canada, Indonesia and Turkey.
Since the discovery of Ethiopian opal in the
1990s, it has rapidly gained market share.
Its attractive colours, patterns, and lower
price points have made it popular.
50 | July 2024

Ethiopian opals have become the major rival
to Australian products.
That said, Australian opals come in a wider
variety of colours than Ethiopian opals.
The local product is considered to exhibit the
entire rainbow spectrum, including fiery reds,
deep blues, vibrant greens, and even black.
In addition, the colours in Australian opals are
generally deeper and more vivid than those in
Ethiopian opals.
The most prized Australian opals, known as
‘black opals,’ have a dark base that intensifies
the play of colour.
While the two products cannot be compared,
Australian opal remains superior, and it is a
market that must be protected and developed.
Ride the rainbow
Ten years ago, Jeweller reported that the
Australian opal industry looked set for a
resurgence.
Many local suppliers had recorded strong sales
over the previous 12 months.
'NOODLING FOR OPAL'
'Noodling for opals' began in January 1915, when Jim Hutchison
and his 14-year-old son William were in Coober Pedy fossicking
for gold when they stumbled across an opal lying on the ground.
At the time, Peter Sherman, director of
Sherman Opals, said that the local opal
industry had struggled since Japan –
once the gemstone’s main buying market –
experienced a financial crash in the 1990s.
However, in 2015, opal prices had spiked
sharply, with the field value of bluegreen
opal increasing to $1,000 per
carat – double the price charged five
years earlier – and the field price for
the ‘rarest’ opals increasing from $6,000
to $8,000 per carat.
This surge in popularity was mainly
attributed to demand from international
markets including the US, Europe and
particularly China.
Since the global pandemic, opal jewellery
has enjoyed a sharp rise in popularity.
When Jewellery and Gem World Singapore
took place in September of 2022, many
Australian exhibitors of opals and opal
jewellery glowingly reported strong sales.
Among them was Sherman, who said that
opal was enjoying roaring popularity following
the pandemic.
“Australian opal is very big on the world stage
right now, he said.
“After a long period of COVID lockdowns, many
people have quite rightfully decided that Aussie
opals are the most beautiful natural gemstone.”
That trend has shown no signs of slowing
down since. At the June Jewellery and Gem
Asia Hong Kong show, opal exhibitors were
again in high spirits.
“Once upon a time, we had to rely on wordof-mouth
to increase the popularity of opals
and opal jewellery,” Tom King of Opal Pacific
told Jeweller.
“Today, we are finding that interest in Australian
opal is always rising. All varieties of opal are
popular with Asian consumers; however, black
opal is highly sought after.”
Industry gathering
Australia’s national gemstone is celebrated
every year at the Australian Opal Exhibition,
which is held on the Gold Coast each July.
The 2023 edition marked its 20th anniversary.
The show is scheduled this month for
Wednesday 31 July to Thursday 1 August.
Reporting on last year’s opal exhibition,
which was well attended by approximately
300 visitors, fair coordinator Maxine O’Brien
said the feedback was overwhelmingly positive.
“There was a definite buzz in the room on the
opening day. The feedback has been so positive,
that there is now a waiting list for exhibitor
spaces for next year,” she told Jeweller.
“We are investigating the possibility of creating
additional booths. Two major initiatives were
introduced this year, the change of venue and
the holding of the exhibition one day earlier
than usual.
Both of these were well received by visitors and
exhibitors alike.”
She said that retailers are increasingly
embracing opal jewellery for a variety of
reasons, whether it be because of the
gemstone's natural beauty or the ‘homegrown’
appeal of Australia’s national gemstone.
While overshadowed by the famous gold rush
of the 1850s, the Australian opal industry has
a unique and vibrant history. From humble
and coincidental beginnings, it triggered a
migration similar to the gold rush era.
Like its predecessor, opal discoveries
drew people worldwide seeking fame and
glory, with diverse communities settling in
remote locations.
Interestingly, Hong Kong became a pivotal hub for
the opal trade in the 1970s and 1980s, and buyers
travelled to Australia to source gemstones.
This influx contributed to a fascinating cultural
exchange, as many visitors eventually settled in
Australia. Today, opal continues to be a significant
player in Australian gemstone exports.
It is particularly prized for its stunning
array of colours. Despite competition from
Ethiopian opals in recent decades, Australian
opals remain unparalleled.
The national gemstone not only supports
a passionate industry but also embodies a
cultural legacy and economic opportunity
that Australia aims to sustain and develop
globally.
July 2024 | 51

BUSINESS
Strategy
What does it mean to be a
high-performance business?
How do you define success? DAVID BROCK explains the
characteristics that define high-performance businesses.
I suspect it’s trite to say that every
business owner and manager wants to
create a high-performance organisation.
A similar observation can be made about
employees – they want to be a part of highperformance
businesses. But what does it
mean to be a high-performing business?
In selling, is high performance merely
‘hitting our numbers’? Is it about our
personal success?
While those are aspects of performance,
when we assess the data, research shows
us that most individuals and businesses are
failing at this objective.
Despite all the investments made in tools,
technology, and training, despite our
leveraging all the fashions and miracle
cures we see in social media, despite the
relentless focus on activities, volume, and
velocity, despite the attitude, until recently, of
growth regardless of cost, most businesses
are failing at this.
We all know the data plummeting win rates,
quota attainment, tenure, engagement,
declining retention, and more.
Many businesses will claim to be hitting
their goals – and they may be; however, they
are underperforming their potential.
I’ve referenced the organisation that was
successfully scaling year after year, hitting
their numbers. But when I looked at win
rates, they were 17 per cent, and win rates
for $1 million+ deals were 9 per cent.
Hitting our numbers is not necessarily
an indicator of being a high-performance
organisation. So, what elements and factors
should we be considering?
While some things may be necessary, they
are not critical indicators of consistently
high-performing organisations. Some of
these include:
Hot products and hot markets: While these
drive short-term growth, they don’t alone
drive sustained high performance.
Markets change, and better or different
products inevitably emerge. Just look at
the corporate graveyards composed of
companies that, for a moment, had the
hottest product in the market.
Many of the consistently highest-performing
companies sell products or services that are
highly commoditised.
In recent years, our strategies focusing
on efficiency, volume, and velocity have
been claimed by many to be the ‘secret to
success.’ But they aren’t succeeding!
To produce the same results we have made
in the past, we must multiply the activity
levels required to deliver those results.
I had always thought scaling referred to
the outcomes created, not the efforts to
maintain a certain performance level.
Technology is supposedly coming to
the rescue. We’ve seen skyrocketing
tech stacks, with companies continuing
to boast, “Mine is bigger than yours!”
However, we don’t see performance
increasing in proportion to the promise of
those tech investments.
Today, Artificial Intelligence (AI) is the
next big thing. We can do even more in
less time and provide greater insight. The
technology is immature. It does have a
great deal to offer; however, the focus is on
volume and velocity.
In recent years,
our strategies
focusing on
efficiency,
volume, and
velocity have
been claimed
by many to be
the ‘secret to
success.’ But
they aren’t
succeeding!
I've been there, done that, and struggled
to see where it has consistently driven
higher performance levels. Ironically,
a multibillion-dollar organisation that
has consistently had the highest growth,
profitability, and performance for at least
ten years just invested in its first customer
relationship management system four
years ago.
Other investments are made in all
aspects of content, marketing programs,
training, and other things, all intended to
drive performance.
Don’t get me wrong. All these things are
essential and contribute to driving and
sustaining high performance. But there
must be something more, something
that we are missing that is critical to
consistently driving high performance.
Over the past year, I’ve been studying
companies that have existed and have
been strong performers for more than
100 years. Some have survived for close to
1,000 years.
I’ve been trying to understand what
drives their success over such long
periods of time.
When you think about this, you know
it can’t be hot products. Products they
brought to the market 100 years or more
have been displaced many times over.
It can’t be a specific leader or founder.
It can’t be a hot market because every
market changes over that period.
So, what are some of the elements that
have driven consistent high performance
over the decades? As I’ve studied these, a
few consistent themes emerge:
52 | July 2024

Culture, values, and purpose: These
factors drive everything the customer does.
They are who the company is and what
it stands for – for its people, customers,
markets, and communities.
It’s essential to recognise that these
aren’t stagnant things. Culture, values,
and purpose will evolve and shift over
time; however, the commitment to these
as the ‘North Star’ driving everything the
organisation does is critical to sustaining
its performance.
Strong leadership and vision: A clear
long-term vision is critical to navigating the
changes, disruptions, and challenges that
emerge over time.
This vision is grounded in culture, value,
and purpose; however, the leadership
translates that into what the companies do
and how they improve, adapt, and change.
Strong leaders come to the role with a
mindset around ‘built to last.’ Sadly, many
leaders have the mindset of ‘built to exit,’
with the idea of moving onto something
new in a few years.
These would only be sufficient with high
levels of employee engagement. Stated
differently, these organisations create
environments where people thrive.
Not just their employees but also their
customers, partners, and communities.
Business is about people engaging people
in meaningful, high-impact ways. It’s
about constantly creating meaning and
engagement in each interaction.
Quality and consistency: These
organisations maintain the highest
standards in everything they do.
Too often, we think of quality as a product/
offering attribute; however, it’s the quality
of the experience everyone with which the
organisation engages.
And it’s the consistency of delivering those
high-quality experiences year after year.
Adaptability, experimentation, and
innovation: These organisations
consistently outperform others by
constantly adapting everything they do and
by constantly innovating.
It’s not just in products and offerings but
in who they are, what they do, and the
experiences they create. They experiment
in everything they do and the offerings they
make. They are driven to be constantly and
consistently relevant.
They recognise embracing change as
critical to their sustained success and
performance.
Financial prudence and stability: These
organisations are playing a long game.
They recognise they will face market,
economic, and other disruptions and have
implemented risk management strategies
to help navigate these uncertainties.
High performance is not just a focus for
this month, this quarter, or this year. It’s
a mindset, a set of principles and values
that focuses on driving the highest levels of
performance year after year.
Too many seem to have lost sight of this–
both leaders and individual contributors. As
a result, organisationally and individually,
we don’t achieve what we can; we don’t
seek to understand what’s possible.
One final point
Everything I read about sales productivity
seems to be focused on ‘doing more’.
I see all sorts of insights, sage advice,
and technology that help improve our
productivity and efficiency.
These offer the potential of freeing up time;
however, it is interesting to see how we fill
the time we theoretically gain.
TRAITS OF A
SUCCESSFUL
BUSINESS
Strong
leadership and
vision
A clear long-term
vision is critical
to navigating
the changes and
disruptions.
Quality and
consistency
Maintaining the
highest standards
in every task
undertaken.
Adaptability,
experimentation,
and innovation
Consistently
outperform others
by adopting new
strategies.
Financial
prudence and
stability
High performance
is not just a focus
for this month,
this quarter, or
this year.
We fill the time doing ‘more of the same’
than doing other things that may be
neglected or for which we do not have
enough time.
As much as I hated customer relationship
management tools, they’ve freed up time for
me to spend with customers and prospects.
Other tools have also freed up time for me
to learn about my customers and how I
could help them.
Some tools allow you to take on
collateral responsibilities to further
professional development.
Somehow, we use the time saved by all
these tools to do more of what we use these
tools to do. We’ve lost the idea of creating
more time so we can allocate it to focus on
another part of our jobs.
I find this confusing. As we do more and
more of the same things and seek to
maximise our productivity and efficiency,
those things produce less and less. How are
we becoming more productive?
What if we started looking at things
differently? What if we leveraged the
productivity and efficiency gains these tools
create to spend more time working one-onone
with our customers?
We could take that time to develop new
skills to engage our customers in more
value-based discussions.
That time could be used to experiment with
new strategies, particularly since the more
we do, the less we seem to produce.
DAVID BROCK is CEO of Partners
In Excellence, a global consultancy
focused on helping organisations
engage customers more effectively. He
writes at partnersinexcellenceblog.com
July 2024 | 53

BUSINESS
Selling
Are you talking to me?
Looking to improve your sales? Consider fine-tuning your approach to communication.
DALE FURTWENGLER discusses the art of language.
When it comes to communication, our
language sends messages beyond the
words themselves.
When these same questions and objections
are posed to the delusional, they are met
with quick dismissal.
This begs the question: What are
we communicating?
These people also use statements that
attempt to marginalise our concerns.
This is an important concept to
understand in business, particularly when
it comes to sales.
The communicator's reactions indicate
that they’ve begun to believe their
concocted story.
Recently, a dear friend asked me an
important question: In conversations with
others, can communication– either good
or bad - impact a person’s confidence?
The short answer is yes.
When it comes to sales, it's important to
pay attention to the language you use.
If you are using the language of gain and
being realistic about the factors involved,
keep doing what you’re doing.
The language we use in conversations
with others impacts not only our behaviour
and confidence but also the confidence,
attitudes, and behaviour of the listener.
To gain a greater understanding of these
impacts, it’s helpful to examine them from
three varying perspectives.
These are the science, self-delusion, and
confidence perspectives.
Numerous studies have been
conducted on neurolinguistic
programming (NLP), the science of
how language influences behaviour.
When a person uses the language of ‘gain’,
they increase confidence, resulting in
outgoing behaviour.
Conversely, the language of ‘loss’
promotes doubt, fear, and anxiety,
which diminish confidence and often
lead to inaction.
Many opportunities are wasted because
of our natural tendency to avoid risk
while simultaneously undervaluing
potential rewards.
The most successful among us quickly
set aside their doubts, fears, and anxiety
in favour of the positive awareness that
they’ve never failed to deal with any
situation they’ve ever faced and overcome
the mistakes they made along the way.
Some people use language to delude
others and, in the process, end up
fooling themselves.
I’ve seen people put a spin on the reality
they’re facing to mislead others.
Then repeat the story so often that they
begin to believe it themselves!
I’ve seen that practice applied, both when
the person was putting a spin on the
mistake they’d made or when they were
being Pollyannish — painting a rosier
picture than existed.
In both instances, the person ends up
believing the story they concocted, which
makes them appear to be confident.
That confidence can have
devastating effects on any listener
who views the person’s confidence
as a measure of credibility.
I’m sure you’d agree that we’ve all done
this at one time or another.
With the above in mind, it’s essential
to understand that genuinely confident
people use the language of gain and
readily admit their mistakes.
These people are quick to acknowledge
potential risks and remain open to the
perspectives and suggestions of others.
It’s these attributes of ‘openness’ that
separate them from self-delusion.
Listening is essential in sales.
As listeners, we can more accurately
assess whether a person’s confidence is
well-placed or delusional. How?
Questions and objections we pose to the
genuinely confident are usually met with
acknowledgment and a well-reasoned
approach to dealing with our concerns -
it's an attitude we all find appealing.
The language
we use in
conversations
with others
impacts not
only our
behaviour and
confidence but
the confidence,
attitudes, and
behaviour of
the listener as
well.
Your confidence and candour will ensure
that you’ll enjoy success.
If you’re crafting stories to put a spin on
your mistakes or painting rosier pictures
than really exist, note that the most
confident and successful among us see
right through your delusions.
To overcome this tendency, each morning,
shortly after rising, commit to being more
open and candid about your mistakes and
more realistic in evaluating situations.
Then, shortly before retiring, recall the
day’s successes in avoiding the temptation
to put a spin on your mistakes.
Avoid painting an unrealistically
optimistic picture.
In those instances where you didn’t quite
meet your goal, ask yourself what you will
do differently in the future.
You’ll find that, within a week of this daily
practice, you’ll default more to using the
language of gain.
You’ll also find that people seem to trust
you more quickly and thoroughly than they
did previously.
Awareness of these improvements in
credibility and trust will encourage you to
keep up this daily practice.
You’ll soon see improved results when it
comes to sales.
DALE FURTWENGLER is the
founder of Furtwengler & Associates.
Hs is a speaker, author and
business consultant. Learn more:
engageconsulting.biz
54 | July 2024

BUSINESS
Management
Understanding the six basic human needs
We’re not so different, you and I. DAVID BROWN outlines the fundamental
desires of customers and employees.
I’ve long been a fan of the work of Tony
Robbins and the impact psychology can
have on success in all aspects of life.
As a business leader, comprehending
the six basic human needs that Robbins
identifies can profoundly impact your
dealings with customers and staff.
When you begin to understand these
needs, you start to discover what people
require to be satisfied, and you can tap into
these factors to help you and them achieve
the required outcomes. Addressing these
needs creates an environment that fosters
loyalty, motivation, and satisfaction from
staff and customers, ultimately driving
your business towards success.
Let’s explore these needs and how they
relate to your business practices.
Certainty & Control
Customers and employees crave
certainty and control in their interactions
with your business.
This means knowing what to expect when
customers engage with your products or
services. Consistency in quality, customer
service, and delivery times builds trust
and reliability.
McDonald's has built a business
empire on nothing more than the
certainty it can provide customers
anywhere in the world. Clear
guidelines, stable work environments,
and predictable career paths satisfy
employees’ need for certainty.
Implementing structured routines and
reliable processes ensures that customers
and staff feel secure and confident in their
dealings with your business.
Variety & Excitement
While certainty is crucial, people also need
variety and excitement to stay engaged. As
a business, you should strive to introduce
new products, services, or experiences
that surprise and delight your customers.
This could be seasonal offerings, limitedtime
promotions, or innovative features.
For your staff, variety can come from
opportunities for skill development, job
rotations, or creative projects.
By injecting an element of novelty and
excitement into your business, you keep
customers and employees enthusiastic.
Significance & Uniqueness
Everyone wants to feel significant and
valued. For your customers, this means
acknowledging their individuality and
catering to their specific needs.
Personalising customer experiences,
recognising loyal customers, and offering
tailored solutions make them feel unique.
This is why bespoke jewellery will
always have its appeal. For employees,
significance can be cultivated by
recognising their contributions,
offering competitive compensation,
and providing professional growth and
advancement opportunities. When
people feel valued, their commitment
and loyalty to your business deepen.
Belonging
Creating a sense of belonging is essential
in building a loyal customer base and a
cohesive workforce.
For customers, fostering a community
around your brand, whether through social
media, loyalty programs, or customer
events, can make them feel part of
something bigger.
Apple has become the world’s most
valuable brand by doing this. Find an
Apple product user, and you’ll typically
find a zealot who won’t entertain using
anything else!
Encouraging customer feedback and
interaction strengthens their connection
to your brand. For employees, fostering
a supportive workplace culture where
everyone feels respected and valued
cultivates a sense of belonging.
Implementing
structured
routines
and reliable
processes
ensures that
customers and
staff feel secure
and confident
in their
dealings with
your business.
Team-building activities, open
communication, and recognising
employee contributions can enhance
this feeling of community.
Growth
Individuals have an inherent desire to
grow and develop. For your employees,
providing opportunities for professional
development, such as training programs,
mentorship, and career advancement
paths, satisfies their need for growth.
When employees see a path for
advancement and development, they are
more likely to stay motivated to continue
working in your business long-term.
Contribution
Finally, the need to contribute to
something greater than oneself is a
powerful motivator.
Creating opportunities for customers
to make a positive impact through their
purchases or participation enhances their
connection to your brand.
Encouraging teamwork, collaboration,
and involvement in community service
projects can foster a culture of
contribution for employees. When staff
feel their work contributes to a larger
purpose, their sense of fulfilment and
engagement increases.
Good luck
Understanding and addressing these
six basic human needs in your business
dealings can create a more fulfilling
and motivating environment for your
customers and employees.
Integrating these principles into your
business strategy and overcoming the
contradictions they may create with each
other enhances satisfaction and loyalty
and drives sustainable success.
Ultimately, a business that meets these
fundamental human needs is more likely
to thrive and create lasting value for all
stakeholders.
DAVID BROWN is co-founder
and business mentor with Retail
Edge Consultants. Learn more:
retailedgeconsultants.com
July 2024 | 55

BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
Your business is ready
for a marketing makeover: Part I
Is your business ready for change? GEORGANNE BENDER and RICH KIZER
encourage you to embrace a new marketing strategy at your store.
The time has come for your jewellery
business to start thinking big!
There’s no need to wait for a special
anniversary or the start of a new year
to revise your in-store strategy and
implement new ideas to make your
business stand out.
People don't always shop at your store
just because they like what you sell; many
stores sell the same products.
Customers don't always choose a store
because they happen to like the owner,
although that helps.
People tend to return to stores because of
how they feel in a particular location, and
more often than not, how they feel about a
store involves the people who work there.
Keep customers returning for more
with these non-stop traffic-building,
profit-producing, attention-grabbing,
sales-generating, competition-miffing,
customer-winning strategies every
retailer should embrace.
Windows that wow
Keep it simple when it comes to window
displays. People need to be able to take
in the message of your windows in eight
seconds or less.
Choose a theme for your monthly window
displays. Each month, there are many
national and fun holidays to choose from.
You can also invent your own occasion!
Carry that theme throughout the store.
Select a backdrop that makes the
merchandise pop.
A vertical backdrop — a photo poster,
hanging lights, or unfurled bolt of fabric —
will draw the eye up and down as well as
forward, allowing shoppers to see more of
your window display.
Add your telephone number and web
address in 10–14-inch white reflective
vinyl letters at the centre bottom of your
main windows. Potential customers can
quickly contact you or check your website
even when your store is closed.
Light your window displays at night.
This is especially important if your
store is in an area where people tend
to walk and in areas populated with
restaurants and bars.
You can’t buy what you can’t see;
lighting entices people to return when
your store opens.
Create an instant display with window
graphics. Use photos you own or have
permission to use blown up to fit your
window space. Perforated window
graphics showing vibrant photos on the
outside while allowing you to see clearly
out of the windows from the inside.
On the sales floor
Work your decompression zone.
Remember, its job is to transition
customers from whatever they were
doing outside your store and refocus
them on shopping.
People don’t start thinking about
merchandise until they are at least
5-10 feet inside the door.
This means that the baskets, signs,
and samples that fall within the
decompression zone will be missed.
Place these items just beyond the
decompression zone where shoppers
are more likely to see them.
Pay attention to your first 10-second
impression. Stand just inside the front
door and look around. In the first 10
seconds inside your door, shoppers make
value judgements about what they see.
View your sales floor from just inside
the door each day, checking to ensure
you are giving shoppers the impression
you intended.
Consider
additional
products you
could add to a
display to save
customers time
and increase
sales.
Check your sight line. While you are still at
the front of your store, check its sight line
— you want shoppers to be able to see into
and through the sales floor.
Get rid of tall fixtures near the front that
block products housed behind them.
Make more displays visible by placing
shorter fixtures near the front and taller
fixtures towards the rear of the store.
Remember, the more a shopper sees,
the more they will buy.
Place speed bump displays just beyond
the decompression zone. These important
displays are the customer's first
impression of the store upon entering.
Use small fixtures or stacking tables to
group irresistible products.
Cross merchandise everywhere. Consider
additional products you could add to
a display to save customers time and
increase sales.
Around the store, look for places to add
J-hooks, clip strips, power panels, and
other inexpensive fixtures to help you
sell more.
Implement the Pyramid Principle in
displays by placing a tall item in the
centre of two smaller items.
This causes the eye to unconsciously
seek the tallest item before scanning the
smaller items and the rest of the display.
The more they see, the more they buy!
Sign your displays. Most independent
retail stores are undersigned, yet it’s a fact
that displays that are signed outperform
displays that are not by 20 per cent.
The message should be simple, indicating
important features and price. Use both
upper- and lower-case letters. Don’t
use a font smaller than 30 points.
Customers who wear reading glasses
should be able to read your signs without
them easily.
In the next issue of Jeweller, the marketing
overhaul continues with part two.
RICH KIZER and GEORGANNE BENDER
are retail strategists, authors and
consultants. Visit: kizerandbender.com
56 | July 2024

BUSINESS
Logged On
Should you have become alarmed
by Apple’s failure?
Technological failures often reveal flaws in conventional wisdom.
GRAHAM JONES encourages you to think outside the box.
Millions of people did not wake up for
work in early May because Apple failed
to make the alarm on their iPhones
work correctly.
This is not good news for the company,
which reported a record fall in sales
this week for the past year. I am fond of
telling people that, one day, Apple will
cease to exist.
Nothing lasts forever. Eventually, this
company will be consigned to history. It
is inevitable. I am also delighted to tell all
those iPhone fanatics that this day may
come sooner than they think.
Basic technical errors in an alarm
system, combined with a dramatic slump
in sales, merely strengthen my case.
However, I wonder if the problems could
be related to the boss's sleep patterns,
which might encourage Apple employees
to be like him. Tim Cook famously sets his
alarm for waking up early to start work
at 4 am.
You’ll find plenty of advice online
suggesting that you, too, should get up
early and get to work. These articles cite
examples of successful people who get
up early and conclude that their success
must be because they are early risers.
Personally, I prefer to rely on science
rather than anecdotes. Five years ago,
research from the University of Exeter
looked at the genetics of sleep among
700,000 individuals.
There are better odds that this study will
reveal more information than a blog post
citing half a dozen high-profile individuals
and their quirky sleep patterns. The
research shows that there are 351 genes
controlling sleep, which is a complex
array of different instructions.
Importantly, this significant study also
showed that some previous ideas about
sleep are incorrect. For example, it
has long been thought that sleeping
late increases your chances of certain
diseases, such as diabetes. However,
the study of 700,000 individuals found no
causal link.
So don’t set your alarm clock early to
avoid disease!
working day, as so many people did,
thanks to the Apple error. More of us have
circadian rhythms that do not align with
the 9 to 5 working day, so our body clocks
do not align with what is expected of us in
the workplace.
I was discussing this issue with some
students recently. They hoped they would
not have any 9.00 a.m. lectures in their
timetable next term. I told them they
probably would, leading to a discussion
about the best time to start the day.
They wanted the study day to begin at
11:00 a.m. I agreed with them that this
was a good idea; however, given the
standard working day for university staff,
it was not practical.
Several research studies have shown that
starting the working day at 9.00 amisnot
good. One study revealed that an early
start is not compensated by going to
bed early. The result is that millions of
workers are less productive because they
are sleep-deprived.
Similar research has found that school
students get better results when they
start later in the day.
The Apple alarm problem should have
triggered some thinking about the
traditions we have in the workplace.
The people
who start early
are frequently
sleep deprived
as they do
not adjust
their going to
bedtime.
has remained unchallenged by most
organisations. You and your workforce
may perform better if the day starts later.
I know that as you’re reading this, you may
be thinking something along the lines of.
“But I do my best work in the morning
when there are no interruptions”. Except
that can be an illusion!
Just because we think we are more
productive does not mean we are. The
people who start early are frequently
sleep deprived as they do not adjust their
going to bedtime.
Luckily, researchers from France,
Hungary, the USA, and the UK have
published a recent review of sleep and
work. It reveals an effective way of
dealing with the modern world’s multiple
pressures that lead to deprived sleep:
taking a nap.
If you don’t sleep but just doze for up to
30 minutes, you’ll feel much better and
be more productive. Plus, if you are not
sleeping but only napping, you will not
need to rely on that broken iPhone alarm
to wake you up.
Many managers will have focused on
criticising individuals for not having
alternative alarms because they failed to
turn up on time in May.
Or they will say, “I never have that
problem with an Android phone”. But
will they say that the tardiness of some
employees should trigger a conversation
about when the working day should begin
or whether beds should be provided for
the occasional nap?
I doubt this discussion will occur in many
businesses, but if it did, perhaps we would
see an improvement in productivity.
So, is it time to review your working day?
If you want to think about that later, please
use something other than an Apple iPhone
alarm to remind you—because it won’t! It’s
inferior technology.
GRAHAM JONES studies online
behaviour and consumer psychology
to help businesses improve website
However, if you wake up naturally, you
could have missed the start of the
The 9 to 5 is not a scientific fact. It is a
choice made hundreds of years ago and
success. Visit: grahamjones.co.uk
July 2024 | 57

My Bench
Brian Bretherton
Artisans Bespoke Jewellers
Age 56 • Years in Trade 33 • Training Trade Certificate in Jewellery, FGAA, Dip Dia Tech, DIP WT & Ass.
SIGNATURE PIECE
MERELANI
Handmade 18-carat white gold 5.37-carat round brilliant
tanzanite with a halo of baguette diamond dress ring.
FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Toss-up between Tsavorite
Garnet, Spessartite and Red Spinel.
FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat yellow gold.
FAVOURITE TOOL Tyler Brother’s Mini Clamp.
BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Laser.
BEST PART OF THE JOB Customer reactions to
seeing their finished piece.
WORST PART OF THE JOB Repairing poorly made or
designed jewellery.
BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Use as little solder as
possible to guarantee and leave a nice join.
BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Look after your
eyes and back. Never use a blunt scorper unless
you like bandaids.
BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
Neck and back.
LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE The sense of
accomplishment when you put 20 or more hours into
a piece and the customers love our craft.
58 | July 2024

July 2024 | 59

OPINION
Soapbox
Please don't forget about the little guy!
An increasing mountain of bureaucracy is grinding Australia’s iconic opal mining
industry into the ground, writes ALISON SUMMERVILLE.
It’s no surprise that opal is Australia’s
national gemstone — the industry
behind it reflects our national spirit.
It’s an industry comprised of small,
hardworking, independent operators who
hope that they'll find their fortune with
experience, persistence, and a little luck.
Unfortunately, while the international
audience for Australian opals is growing
daily, our local government has little
regard for the industry.
The opal industry is facing significant
issues across all three states, and
I believe the State and Federal
Governments are hiding an agenda.
The removal of small-scale mining
for National Park purposes without
consultation is evidence of this.
I’ve seen intelligent people reduced to
tears over the frustration and anger they
feel towards departments and the absurd
amount of paperwork required, as well as
the long delays in processing tenures.
The Resources and Environment
departments show a deep lack of
understanding and care for the people
who mine our national gemstone.
This lack of understanding is particularly
important regarding the ‘ripple effect’ of
the opal mining industry.
It begins with opal miners and
quickly connects with geologists and
gemmologists who work hand-in-hand
with miners.
Then there are the machine operators
because, contrary to popular belief, we
aren’t just getting out with a pick and
shovel anymore — those days are over!
The local economy expands further
by providing the services required to
maintain this machinery and simple
things like fuel and repairs purchased
from local businesses.
These people all operate in the industry's
background.
Opal needs to be cut, and we desperately
need more cutters in Australia because
so much of the product goes overseas.
Opal cutting is a specialised field, and
while there are lapidary clubs across
Australia that are educating the next
generation, we need more.
Lapidary involves all manner of machines,
cutting and polishing wheels, and
dremels – and another workforce of
people provides these tools and services.
The next level is the buyers, who travel
around the country purchasing opals.
They fly in and fly out, hiring cars, staying
in motels, and eating in restaurants, and
so we see the flow-on impact for tourism
and accommodation.
From there, we meet the industry level
you’re likely familiar with — suppliers
and retailers. Jewellers turn the opal
into works of art, which they then sell to
consumers at the retail level.
Many buyers from exotic locations in
every corner of the earth travel to
Australia to purchase opals.
It doesn’t matter whether it’s a king or a
queen, an emperor or a president; when
you see influential, high-profile figures
abroad wearing Australian opals, these
are the people who bring it to them.
These buyers are spreading the
word about our gemstone on the
international stage.
The same could be said for television
shows like Outback Opal Hunters.
They’ve done an excellent job increasing
awareness about the industry.
Anyone who comes to Winton and looks
at our visitor book will see the terrific
number of people travelling from
overseas to witness firsthand a
uniquely Australian industry.
People's inspiration to travel from one side
of the planet to another to visit the opal
fields all goes back to that romantic notion I
mentioned earlier—the idea that you can be
on your own with a handful of tools and pull
Our national
gemstone is
right under
their noses,
and the lack of
recognition the
industry behind
those gemstones
receives just
dumbfounds me.
something special from the ground.
As I’m sure you can understand, the
opal industry's ripple effect spreads
far and wide. While we may not be the
largest industry in Australia, we are
still important — we represent our
national gemstone!
Opal is so difficult to find, and as a
result, no large or even medium-sized
company sees mining as viable. We
are a unique community that shares a
love for a rare gemstone.
Our footprint is minimal with no water
or chemicals used to mine. Queensland
has 200 mining claims which spread from
Kynuna to Cunnamulla – that's more than
1000 kilometres. While we may be small,
we are not inconsequential!
Queensland’s Parliamentary Mace
weighs 7.7 kilograms and is gold-plated
sterling silver. There are 32 Queensland
gemstones set in the Mace, including
nine opals, two garnets, six amethysts
and 15 sapphires.
Every time Mace is presented during a
discussion in Parliament and the ‘experts’
begin discussing the issues facing
Queensland, all I can do is laugh.
Our national gemstone is right under
their noses, and the lack of recognition
the industry behind those gemstones
receives just dumbfounds me.
I would challenge any Queensland
politician to attempt to take up a mining
claim and see how they go — to see how
far they make it before some bureaucrat
tells them ‘no’ for some obscure reason.
Artisanal mining is a unique and
wonderful world — and it’s about time
the powers that be in Australia treated
it as such.
Name: Alison Summerville
Business: QLD Boulder Opal Association
Position: President
Location: Winton, Queensland
Years in the industry: 30+
60 | July 2024

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