Summer 2024

Collection DAUM wisteria and lily of the valley vase © Regine Datin
being cutting edge, is firmly rooted in the
18th century.
From here, walk through the old town and
along the Grand Rue around which a maze of
narrow streets are lined with shops, markets,
and skinny houses with mullioned windows.
Finish at Porte de la Craffe, a 14th century
gateway that once formed part of Mediaeval
fortifications that ran all the way around the
town. It’s not possible to go inside, but the
imposing exterior is well worth a look, with twin,
grey turrets that look like a pair of pricked ears.
As you wander, look out for the 19th century
basilica, Saint-Epvre, built in a Neo Gothic style
with bronze statues of angels playing horns
encircling the belltower. The stained-glass
windows are lovely from the inside.
Treat yourself to a meal which looks like a
work of art at La Maison dans le Parc. There’s
a set, three-course dinner menu with a choice
of three dishes. Let the restaurant know in
advance if you’re vegetarian.
Parc de la Pépinières © Pierre Defontaine Artge
Art Nouveau – day 2
Art Nouveau, often described as the
predecessor of Art Deco, began in Belgium
and France in the late 19th century, and Nancy
was one of the hotspots. Highly decorative, it
was characterised by elaborate carvings and
stained-glass windows, often with a botanical
theme. Le Musée de l’école de Nancy is the
best place to go to understand it. Inside, says
art critic Brad Allan, the rooms look slightly
warped, a little like a Gaudí building. “A mindbending
highlight is a wondrous dining room
where every detail expresses the flowing design
motifs of the Art Nouveau movement – from
the ceiling down to the floor and everything
else in between. The visual impact of a room
composed entirely of Art Nouveau artefacts is
utterly staggering. As Art Nouveau expresses
organic, entwining forms, the room seems to
writhe before your very eyes, like a twisting
interior forest. The massive light fitting seems
to descend on a vine from the timbered ceiling
as you look upon it. The wall coverings suggest
a deep and mysterious woodland. A lone chair
Musee de l'Ecole de Nancy © Lori & Tim Prosser
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