Adirondack Sports June 2024

HIKING & BACKPACKING
JUNE 2024 9
Passage of
the Pharaohs
Pharaoh Lake via Crane Pond
By Bill Ingersoll
For many people familiar with the Adirondack
wilderness, Pharaoh Lake hardly requires any
introduction from me. This 441-acre pond lies
at the heart of its namesake wilderness area, and it is
the home of six lean-tos and an uncounted number of
primitive campsites. The lake is approached by trails
from nearly every compass direction, and some of them
are quite well known.
Most people approach Pharaoh Lake via the most
direct route from the southwest, which is serviced by a
trailhead near Brant Lake. The next-most-popular trail
begins at Putnam Pond and passes Grizzle Ocean. I have
enjoyed each of these routes multiple times over the years.
However, the route I am recommending here is the
less-traveled approach from the northwest, from the
vicinity of Schroon Lake. This trail begins at Crane Pond
and ends at Pharaoh Lake, but somewhere between these
popular destinations it enjoys a few miles of rugged quietness.
And when you do reach the shore of Pharaoh Lake,
it is near a cluster of remote campsites that are somewhat
less frequently used than those clustered at the south end
of the lake.
The connecting trails also suggest side explorations for
those who are curious to see more. And if you feel truly
strong and ambitious, you could turn this out-and-back
hike into a loop by combining a trip to Pharaoh Lake with
the parallel traverse over Pharaoh Mountain.
Getting There – The trailhead is located on Crane
Pond Road, east of Schroon Lake. From Exit 28 on I-87,
turn south on US Route 9 and continue for about 0.6-mile.
Here, turn left onto Alder Meadow Road, which crosses
the Schroon River and leads east through a residential
area. After passing through the scenic wetlands flanking
Alder Creek, watch for a fork 2.1 miles from the highway.
Crane Pond Road bears left here and leads the final 1.4
miles to the official state trailhead for Crane Pond.
You will probably observe, however, that the road continues
into state land without the usual yellow barricade
to prevent vehicle access. Officially, the remaining portion
of Crane Pond Road is closed and not maintained
by any government agency, but in reality, it is still used
by high-clearance four-wheel-drive trucks. Most vehicles,
though, are outclassed by the sheer ruggedness of
the road, with some of the worst washouts (as of 2024)
found within the first mile. Therefore, for most of us, the
best option is to park where the town road ends and walk
the rest of the way.
The Trail – The first 1.9 miles of this hike to Pharaoh
Lake begins on the unmaintained segment of Crane
To Schroon Lake / US 9
Pond Road, between the official
parking area and the place where
the trucks park near the west end
of Crane Pond. The idea of hiking
a road as part of a wilderness
adventure might sound contradictory,
and not everyone will savor
the experience, but the route does
enjoy plenty of foot traffic and it is
not entirely unenjoyable.
Your hike begins parallel to
a rugged section of Alder Creek,
which is here adorned by rocky
gorges and cascades. After crossing
the brook, you reach the side
trail to Goose Pond at 0.8-mile.
The road is relentlessly bumpy as
it continues eastward, parallel to
Alder Pond and sometimes within
view of it. At about 1.5 miles the
road gets uncomfortably close to
the vast wetlands surrounding
the pond and even cuts through
a corner of them; a bed of gravel
provides an easy ford for both hikers
and drivers through most of the
summer.
At 1.9 miles you reach the interior
parking area near Crane Pond
See HIKING & BACKPACKING 11 ▶
P
MAP BY BILL INGERSOLL
Hay Marsh
Pharaoh Lake
▲ PHARAOH LAKE.
BILL INGERSOLL