TravelWorld International Magazine Summer 2024

SUMMER 2024 

San Antonio, Texas 

travelworld 

INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 

The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor 

TravelWorld International Magazine 

is the only magazine that showcases 

the member talents of the 

North American 

Travel Journalists Association 

SUMMER 

2024 

travelworld 

INTERNATIONAL 

MAGAZINE 

As the NATJA Conference location was Galveston,Texas this 

year, NATJA writers have a lot to say about their experiences in 

Texas! Two stallwart NATJA members and best travel buddies 

(also comedians), Terri Marshall and Vanessa Orr, share their 

search for "the weird and wild in Texas Hill Country" along their 

road trip enroute to the conference destination. Hilarious story! 

Beyond this and some other great Galveston stories, we have the 

usual plethora of fascinating articles from our NATJA members. 

There is a history of pirating around the Carribean with 

fabulous photography from Rich Grant, also a presesntation of 

humanity in Uganda by another great photographer, Dennis 

Garrels. Laura Watilo Blake shares Missouri's Must-Do Road 

Trip around the Lake of the Ozarks and Sue Davies explains 

why she and her wife Reggie are in love with Singapore! 

Two unique and special stories are Mike Howard's clever 

analysis of expensive versus cheap vodkas and Sandy Bornstein's 

openness in sharing her journey of grief after her fellow traveler, 

husband and love of her life recently passed away from brain 

cancer. It's truly inspiring to see Sandy's brave mission to regain 

normalcy in her life as a travel writer. 

Group Publisher: 

Publishers: 

VP Operations: 

Editor in Chief: 

Copy Editor: 

NATJA Publications 

Helen Hernandez & 

Bennett W. Root, Jr. 

Yanira Leon 

Joy Bushmeyer 

Omar Rodriguez 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS: 

Nancy Besharah 

Laura Watilo Blake 

Sandy Bornstein 

Sue Davies 

Dennis Garrels 

Rich Grant 

Mike Howard 

Tamara MC 

Terri Marshall 

Vanessa Orr 

DMO CONTRIBUTORS: 

Let's Texas 

Punta Gorda Englewood Beach 

A TOUCH of Texas! 

Two for the Road in Texas! Terri Marshall & Vanessa Orr 6 

6 Reasons Why I Fell in Love with Galveston Tamara MC 15 

Chasing Birdies in Galveston Nancy Besharah 20 

6 

16 20 

Joy Bushmeyer, 

Editor in Chief 

Editorial /Advertising Offices: 

TravelWorld International Magazine 

3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744 

Pasadena, CA 91107 

Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854 

www.travelworldmagazine.com 

The Great Pirate Towns of the Americas Rich Grant 24 

Savoring Singapore Sue Davies 32 

2 

Cover Photo 

Cover Photo provided by Terri Marshall 

Who could resist including giant, 35 feet tall, cowboy 

boots while traveling on a road trip through the Texas Hill 

Country searching for "the weird and wild"? 

Not Terri Marshall and Vanessa Orr as they describe it all 

in their hilarious story "Two for the Road in Texas"! 

Volume 2024.02 Summer 2024. Copyright ©2024 

by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction in whole or in part without written 

permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and 

information sent upon request. Acceptance of 

advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine 

in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by 

NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services 

advertised. NATJA Publications and TravelWorld 

International Magazine reserve the right to reject 

any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors 

are their own and not necessarily those of Travel 

World International Magazine or NATJA 

Publications. TravelWorld International Magazine 

reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity 

and length, as well as to reject any material submitted, 

and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. 

This periodical’s name and logo along with the 

various titles and headings therein, are trademarks 

of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A. 

24 32 

3

GET YOUR OWN 

TA KE 

T HE 

PLUNGE 

TRIP TO TEXAS 

N A T U R A L S P R I N G - F E D P O O L S 

SUMMER 

2024 

travelworld 

Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri's Must-Do Road Trip Laura Watilo Blake 36 

Expensive Vodka - Super Premium or Snake Oil? Mike Howard 42 

A Muzungu Wanders in Uganda Dennis Garrels 44 

A Respite from Grief: A Week at Hilton Health Sandy Bornstein 50 

36 42 

INTERNATIONAL 

MAGAZINE 

44 50 

4 

Is it called a rush because it’s thrilling or because folks are rushing 

to Texas for a dip in our crystal-clear swimming holes? Likely both. 

But if you prefer an alternative to adrenaline, never fear. There are an 

infinite number of trips to Texas, and the only one that matters is yours. 

5

Just another 

WILD and CRAZY 

Terri and Vanessa 

Road Trip! 

Two For the Road in Texas 

Searching for the Weird and Wild in Texas Hill Country 

People are attracted to the Texas Hill 

Country for many reasons: beautiful 

scenery, amazing wine, the chance to 

enjoy a backcountry road trip, and 

more. But Terri and I had a different 

goal in mind: we were looking for 

Texas roadside weirdness…and the 

Hill Country didn’t disappoint! 

Story and Photos by 

Terri Marshall and Vanessa Orr 

Some of the sights we found were 

beautiful, like the painted churches 

that dotted the landscape. Others were 

what we titled “Texas weird,” like the 

cowboy boots we found everywhere 

and the old Pioneer Town where we 

stayed in a former boarding house. And 

then there were the “Hold my beer” 

highlights, which included Stonehenge 

mixed with Easter Island, The Texas 

Chainsaw Massacre Gas Station now 

turned barbecue joint, and giant 

animal statues that caused us to slam 

on brakes and back up to admire these 

icons of absurdity. 

German and Czech settlers painted their churches to 

resemble the churches from their homelands. 

Photo by Vanessa Orr 

Was it a coincidence that at the first 

church we visited, the sky turned 

from a beautiful robin’s-egg blue to a 

swirling, angry mass of clouds? 

TERRI: 

That is so weird how the sky 

changed so quickly. Do you think 

there’s a storm coming? 

VANESSA: 

Probably more like divine 

retribution. Just get in the car. 

Quick. 

Speaking of religious icons, West 

San Antonio is home to the World’s 

Largest Virgin Mary Mosaic, which is 

located at the Guadalupe Cultural Arts 

Center. The four-story artwork, created 

While the outsides of these painted churches look like any 

other building, the insides are absolutely breathtaking. 


by artist Jesse Trevino, is designed 

to look like a votive candle with an 

eternal flame on top. Even if you’re not 

a believer, this stunning artwork is a 

must-see. 

And of course, we did get to see the 

Alamo, which, while another item off 

the bucket list, is simply not strange 

enough for this story. 

SO THE TRIP STARTS LIKE THIS: 

6 

TERRI: 

For your birthday this year, I think 

we should do a road trip through 

Texas Hill Country. We could 

start in San Antonio, since you’ve 

never seen the Alamo, and end 

up in Galveston for the NATJA 

conference. 

VANESSA: 

I’m in for the Alamo, but what else 

is there to see? Other than hills? 

TERRI: 

Mermaids, giant pigs, Pearl the 

Squirrel, the Cartoon Saloon, 

and the oldest dance hall in Texas. 

And that’s just a start. 

VANESSA: 

Start the car. 

START THE DAMN CAR! 

Since we couldn’t drive the whole 

way, we flew into Houston and 

rented a car to drive to San Antonio. 

Because staying on an interstate 

for a few hours doesn’t cut it for 

us, we detoured to visit a few of 

the approximately 20 painted 

churches that on the outside look 

like any other church. But inside 

it’s a completely different story! 

The German and Czech settlers in 

this region of Texas decorated the 

building interiors to resemble the 

churches in their homelands, and they 

are dazzling! 

We checked out three of these beauties 

near Schulenburg, TX, though with 

some trepidation. 

VANESSA: 

You know lightning will strike 

when I go through the door. 

Terri: 

Nah, I’m an angel, 

so I can protect us. 

VANESSA: 

So we’re toast. 

Church sky before / THC Dark Skies after Vanessa went to church: 

Was it a coincidence that the sky turned dark after Vanessa entered the first painted church? 

We think not. (First photo by Vanessa Orr, second photo by Terri Marshall) 

The World’s Largest Virgin 

Mary Mosaic at the Guadalupe 

Cultural Arts Center. 


7

World’s largest cowboy boots: 

Bob ‘Daddy-O’ Wade created this 

pair of 35-foot-high fake ostrich 

and calfskin cowboy boots, 

which now stand outside a mall. 

Photo by Terri Marshall 

The original Buckhorn Saloon owner used to accept horns as payment for drinks, 

and now has one of the world’s largest collections. Photo by Vanessa Orr 

A TASTE OF TEXAS 

While we love to look at Texas 

Longhorn steers, we prefer to see them 

live, so we didn’t originally think that 

the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum in 

San Antonio, which boasts hundreds 

of mounted animals on the walls, 

would be the place for us. But lo and 

behold, this saloon, which was started 

by 17-year-old Albert Friedrich in 

1881, not only had a cool backstory but 

the weirdest museum of oddities—all 

under one roof. 

When Friedrich first opened his 

saloon, he accepted horns and antlers 

in exchange for money from people 

who couldn’t pay for their drinks. Now 

the Buckhorn collection is one of the 

world’s largest collections of horns, 

displayed along with artwork made of 

rattlesnake rattles, which Albert’s wife, 

Emilie, collected from thirsty patrons. 

TERRI: 

Wow, this place looks interesting. 

Should we go in? 

VANESSA: 

It’s a saloon and a weird museum. 

It’s obviously made for us. 

So, we paid the $23 admission and 

headed in, making fast work (with 

drinks in hand) of the dead animal 

displays. But then we entered the 

American Sideshow and Carnival of 

Curiosities; a museum featuring a 

possibly dead man in a diving suit, a 

definitely dead man in a coffin, and all 

sorts of other atrocities and attractions 

that made us stop in our tracks. 

TERRI: 

Dear God, is that a man in that 

diving suit? 

Just one of the stranger attractions at 

the American Sideshow and Carnival 

of Curiosities in the Buckhorn Saloon. 


VANESSA: 

I think it’s a projection. Or some 

kind of light-show thing. 

TERRI: 

How can you tell? 

VANESSA: 

Cause it doesn’t look like the 

mummified dead man in the 

next room. 

That dead man was Elmer McCurdy, 

a failed bandit who reportedly yelled, 

“You’ll never take me alive!” right 

before he was shot dead. There were 

also shrunken heads, a Wolf Boy skull, 

Sirena the Mermaid, and a horned 

conehead man, among other unique 

items. There was also a separate Texas 

Rangers Museum, which, while a 

loving tribute to a brave group of men, 

didn’t even rate on the strangeness 

scale. 

We then took a trip to a mall, because 

we’d heard about another overly large 

item we just had to see. In Texas, they 

brag about everything being big, and 

they aren’t kidding when it comes to 

cowboy boots. Bob “Daddy-O” Wade, 

who once installed a giant Lone Star 

iguana on a rooftop in New York City, 

created a pair of 35-foot-tall, 33-footlong 

fake ostrich and calfskin cowboy 

boots, made of mostly junk material. 

These boots now stand by the North 

Star Mall in San Antonio, where they 

were once inhabited by a homeless 

man, who almost set the boots on fire 

while cooking with Sterno. The boots 

survived and recently received an 

$80,000 makeover because…Texas. 

Speaking of boots, there is also a much 

smaller pair of patriotic cowboy boots 

found on private property in Sisterdale, 

which Terri decided she needed to 

photograph. 

TERRI: 

Aren’t you coming? 

Don’t you want pictures? 

VANESSA: 

Nope. I’m going to stay in the car, 

in front of this possibly abandoned 

scary gas station, and wait to pick 

you up when the homeowner starts 

shooting at you. 

TERRI: 

Okay. Just make sure I’ve got the 

picture first. 

We also did a quick stop at Gruene 

Dance Hall, the oldest dance hall in 

Texas, and Luckenbach, TX, which was 

once a town with a thriving population 

of three. Today it’s a general store, bar, 

outdoor music venue, and a dance 

hall—all because of Waylon Jennings’ 

song. 

8 

9

Pearl the Squirrel gets 

photographed 30-100 

times a day! 


And here's one more! 

The Pig: 

This giant pink pig once stood at Frank’s Hog Stand in 

San Antonio before mysteriously disappearing for years. 


The Bigger the Better 

Texas isn’t only known for its large cowboy boots. There 

are an awful lot of oversized roadside animals to be seen, 

including a giant pink pig that used to be located at 

Frank’s Hog Stand in San Antonio before mysteriously 

disappearing. In the early 1990s, it showed up outside of 

the city in an empty lot with someone living in it, and today 

it stands proudly as “possibly the last surviving porcine 

programmatic architecture” in the country. Whatever the 

hell that means. 

Pearl the Squirrel, or what Vanessa believes is the Holy Grail 

of roadside animal art, stands in Cedar Creek, TX, where 

you can not only buy souvenirs but pecans—24 hours a day. 

Smitty of Smithville: 

This 20-foot sculpture memorializes the 

world’s largest gingerbread man, created 

in Smithville, TX. Photo by Terri Marshall 

TERRI: 

Look, a pecan vending machine. 

Outside a pecan store. 

Guarded by a massive squirrel. 

Do I deliver on the weird or what? 

VANESSA: 

Like a champ. But who needs 

access to pecans 24 hours a day? 

TERRI: 

Who needs to drive miles out of 

the way to see a giant squirrel? 

Pearl the Squirrel stands 14 

feet tall and is reportedly 

photographed 30 to 

100 times a day. She’s so 

popular that she even has 

her own photo gallery 

website. 

The Hill Country is 

also home to Smitty, a 

20-foot-tall sculpture that 

memorializes the world’s 

largest gingerbread man, 

created in Smithville, TX. 

The 1,308 pounds, 8 oz. 

cookie took 750 pounds 

of flour, 49 gallons of 

molasses, and 72 dozen 

eggs to make—and left 

behind a legacy, as well as, 

we assume, a lot of local 

stomachaches. 

VANESSA: ‘Nuff said. 

10 

11

THEY ALMOST MISSED THIS ONE! 

Two other Texas icons (at least in 

our minds) are Al Shepperd and his 

neighbor, Doug Hill, who created 

Stonehenge and Easter Island, 

located on the grounds of the 

Hill Country Arts Foundation in 

Ingram, Texas. 

Inspired by an upended limestone 

slab, Shepperd, funded by 

Hill, decided to create his own 

Stonehenge, made of plaster and 

graphite-covered metal mesh and 

steel frameworks. The display, 

which is 90 percent as wide and 

60 percent the height of the 

original, stood in Shepherd’s 

pasture until it was relocated in 

the summer of 2010. 

Texas’ Stonehenge is 90 percent as wide and 60 percent 

as high as the original Stonehenge in England. 


Hold My Beer 

VANESSA: 

So I get Stonehenge. But I don’t 

get why there are also Easter 

Island figures here. 

We must give the Texas Hill Country kudos because their residents 

know how to take weird to an extreme. The Cartoon Saloon, for 

example, literally made Vanessa slam on the brakes at 70 m.p.h. and 

back up to see what the hell was going on, almost sending us both 

through the windshield. 

TERRI: 

Dear God! What is wrong with you? 

TERRI: 

I don’t get why you get 

Stonehenge. 

(This from a woman who 

started one of our mornings 

with the greeting, “Wake up! It’s 

time to go on a mermaid hunt!”) 

VANESSA: 

Just look! We almost missed this! 

TERRI: 

Is it worth me being decapitated by a window? 

VANESSA: 

Am I going to be in trouble if I say yes? 

While the Cartoon Saloon wasn’t worth Terri’s untimely demise, it was 

a truly unique roadside stop. Located just outside of Comfort, TX, this 

collection of buildings, which includes a saloon, art studio and the 

Lone Star Beer Can Christmas tree that started it all, was created by 

cartoonist J.P. Rankin a.k.a. the Cartoon Cowboy. 

Stonehenge and Easter Island in 

Ingram, TX. Because why not? 


Said mermaids were located 

throughout the town of San 

Marcos—the Mermaid Capital of 

Texas—and it was a lot of fun to 

wander around looking for these 

absolutely ethereal creations, which 

were made at the behest of the San 

Marcos Arts Commission for their 

Mermaid March in 2016. The town 

also features several “hidden” minimurals, 

which we added to our list 

of strange things to find. 

The city of San Marcos is The Mermaid Capital of Texas. Who knew? 

Stunning mermaids line the streets of San Marcos that were created 

for the Mermaid March in 2016. Photo by Vanessa Orr 

12 

13

A barbecue place where part of The 

Texas Chainsaw Massacre movie was 

filmed. What could possibly go wrong? 


Human menu: 

Would you eat here? 

A barbecue joint, 

previously a service 

station, where The 

Texas Chainsaw 

Massacre was filmed. 


Perhaps best of all, or at least taking the title of the weirdest, 

was the Texas Chainsaw Massacre Barbecue Joint, located 

in Bastrop, TX. The old service station, which was used in 

the famous slasher flick, not only features tons of horror 

memorabilia for purchase inside, but from what we 

understand, really delicious barbecue. 

TERRI: 

That’s a long line of people just waiting for barbecue. 

We should try some. 

VANESSA: 

You are seriously going to eat something they cook 

here? Their tagline is “We slaughter barbecue.” 

And I’m not thinking cows. 

TERRI: 

(looking at the chart on the wall that shows the best 

choice cuts—of humans!) Maybe we can find 

something a little further down the road. 

Discretion being the better part of valor, we left, which 

was one of the more sensible decisions we made along the 

route. (This included following a road that ended in a closed 

gate with the sign: Your GPS is wrong. Turn around and go 

back.) 

We continued our trek back to Galveston via Houston, 

secure in the fact that we’d survived yet another one of 

our infamous road trips. 

Ariel view of the 

Galveston Pier 

Photo Courtesy of 

Visit Galveston 

14 

15

You’re not in Egypt. You’re in Galveston. The three pyramids— 

Aquarium, Rainforest, and Discovery Museum. 

Moody Gardens Hotel & Pyramids 

Photo Courtesy of Visit Galveston 

Absolute Equality Mural 


JUNETEENTH 

Galveston is packed with history, 

heartbreak, and a lot of good food 

and fun. From beaches to shopping 

on The Strand to visiting a pyramid, 

you’re also bound to fall in love 

with the 32-mile sandbar that has 

weathered many storms. What you 

may not know is that the deadliest 

natural disaster in U.S. history—the 

1900 Storm, occurred in Galveston, 

in which more than 6,000 people lost 

their lives on this fateful September 

day. Before the storm, Galveston 

was the second richest city per 

capita in the United States and was 

even dubbed the “Wall Street of 

the South.” “Resilience” is a word 

you’ll often hear around the island 

to describe Galvestonians—also 

friendly and warm. In Galveston 

you can feel comfy wearing cowboy 

boots or flip flops. I’ll always choose 

pink flip flops, but you be you. 

BEACH 

WHEELCHAIR 

PROGRAM 

When I learned about this program, 

I knew I was a Galveston convert. 

Galveston takes their accessibility 

seriously, as should each city. They 

have ramps to the sand and access 

decking that wheelchairs can roll out 

to the water on. When Galveston 

originally put in the portable 

decking, they didn’t realize that 

strollers and others with wheels, like 

rolling ice chests, would also use 

the decking. Beach wheelchairs are 

available at all Park Board-operated 

beach parks in Galveston for free 

and without reservations on a first 

come first-served basis. Cory Lee 

with CurbFree visited Stewart Beach 

and made a video of him rolling on 

the accessible beach mats. Galveston 

truly is a pioneer in making their city 

accessible for most. 

MOODY GARDENS, 

THE AQUARIUM 

PYRAMID 

You can explore the deep blue sea in 

the Gulf of Mexico, the South Pacific, 

and the Caribbean at Moody Gardens. 

My favorite part of the Aquarium were 

the animal encounters. You can meet 

a penguin! Or a sea otter! Or an owl 

with piercing eyes. This is a great place 

to bring kiddos. Moody Gardens, 

a 242-acre facility, really is an ideal 

family vacay spot, with multiple 

attractions, comfy rooms, a great pool 

where parents can swim long laps, and 

amazing food. The breakfast buffet 

had a great selection—from egg dishes 

to fresh fruit. Moody Gardens is also 

wheelchair friendly. The buildings 

have ramps leading to the entrances 

and wheelchair accessible bathrooms. 

The man-made lagoons have ramps to 

get into the water. 

While Juneteenth became a federal 

holiday in 2021 when President 

Joe Biden signed the Juneteenth 

National Independence Day Act into 

law, it began at the southwest corner 

of 22nd and Strand in Galveston 

when General Gordon Granger set 

up his Union Headquarters. You 

can take the self-guided Freedom 

Walk Tour on their own and 

visit five historic sites. They can 

also download an app and take 

the “Freedom Walk Challenge.” 

Some of the sites include Pier 21 

and the Middle Passage Marker, 

which commemorates enslaved 

Africans during the 18th and 19th 

centuries or the Ashton Villa, the 

site where the Galveston community 

commemorate the General Order 

No. 3 through a reading, prayer 

breakfast, and reenactment. Other 

sites include the “Absolute Equality 

Mural” and Galveston’s Juneteenth 

Exhibit, “And Still We Rise…" 

And Still We Rise… 

Galveston’s Juneteenth Story 

HISTORICAL 

IMMIGRATION 

Galveston was the second largest 

point of immigration into the 

U.S. behind Ellis Island in the 

1800s. You can visit Galveston’s 

Maritime Industry Past and 

Present and experience what 

immigrants experienced as they 

sailed to America at the “Ship to 

Shore” exhibit. Also, Galveston 

is the 4th busiest cruise port in 

the United States, so you can visit 

the new Royal Caribbean cruise 

terminal or just watch the ships 

and dream of your next vacation. 

Historical Ship "Elissa" 

at theTexas Seaport Museum 


16 

17

The Grand Galvez Hotel 

GAIDO’S SEAFOOD RESTAURANT 

The Grand Galvez Hotel 

poster in historic style 

THE GRAND GALVEZ 

Gaido’s since 1911. Fresh locally caught Gulf 

seafood served with elegance and grace. 

While they are known for their “Deluxe Shellfish Tower,” which 

is literally a tower of oysters on the half shell, chilled Gulf 

shrimp, jumbo lump crab salad, and chilled blue crab claws,” 

don’t miss out on their au gratin potatoes and blue cheese 

grits. Their “Watkins Bisque” is delish, and their wedge salad is 

perfection. Pecan pie is the official state pie of Texas, and Gaido’s 

pecan pie is covered from top to bottom in Texas pecans. Is it 

pee-KAHN? Or puh-CON? Gaido’s is across the street from the 

water, so depending on your table, you’ll have a gorgeous view. 

The restaurant has dark cozy lighting and smells delicious, with 

wafts of seafood, butter, and garlic. 

What I love about Galveston is that you can be transported 

back into time. If you visit LaKing’s Confectionary, where 

candy is still handmade, you can feel like you’re thrown back 

to the 1920s. Or if you visit The Grand 1894 Opera House that 

survived the storms of 1900 and 1916, you can feel like you’re 

back in the early 1900s. Galveston truly is grand in all that it has 

to offer. 

Sometimes we wait years to visit a place on our bucket list, 

which was the case for me with Galveston. I waited over two 

decades to dip my toes in the Texas Gulf Coast. And now I’m 

hooked on the small town, beach-vibe and the welcoming feel 

of the Jewel of the Gulf. I’ll be back, donning my pink flip flops 

and pastel sunnies. 

Established in 1911, the AAA 

4-diamond property is the only 

historic beachfront hotel on the Gulf 

Coast. They are also the only hotel 

in Texas to own their own beach, 

which is right across the street. 

They are still developing their beach 

but have plans to offer facilities on 

the water. The Grand Galvez has 

a storied history of celebrities and 

prominent public figures, such as 

Franklin Roosevelt and Dwight 

Eisenhower, visiting and staying. 

The Miss Universe Pageant was 

said to have begun at the “Pageant 

of Pulchritude” that took place 

originally at the hotel. In 2021, they 

began a construction plan totaling 

$31 million, and in 2023, they 

transitioned to a Marriott Autograph 

Collection Property. Don’t forget 

to sip a drink at the legendary 

mahogany bar that was originally 

housed in Galveston’s last speakeasy 

during the days of prohibition 

The Grand Galvez, the black-andwhite 

checkered floors are amazing. 

They feel old Hollywood. 

The red chandelier in The 

Founders Bar is gorgeous. 

Gaido’s Deluxe Shellfish Tower 

18 

The Grand Galvez Interior Staircase 

A Grand Galvez interior Hallway 

Famous pecan pie from Gaido’s 

LaKing’s Confectionary, an old-fashioned soda fountain, ice cream parlor, 

candy store, and coffee shop. Watch salt water taffy being made. 

19

Chasing Birdies in Galveston 

at Moody Gardens Golf Course 

Story and Photos by Nancy Besharah 

eep your eyes on 

the ball," my dad's 

voice whispers as I settle 

into my stance between 

the maroon markers 

and look down at the 

yellow ball. My dad introduced 

me to golf decades ago, and even 

though he is no longer with us, 

his coaching still guides me on 

the course. If I'm nervous on the 

first tee, returning to the basics 

helps calm the pre-drive jitters, 

especially when I play with rental 

clubs on a new course. 

Moody Gardens on Galveston 

Island in Texas, is a public, 

non-profit educational 

destination featuring a hotel, spa, 

theme park, theaters, Rainforest 

Pyramid, Aquarium Pyramid, and, 

as of 2008, a par-72 Jacobsen Hardy 

design golf course. While tourists 

and school kids, given the long line 

of orange buses in the parking lot, 

are experiencing the exotic animals 

in the Rainforest Pyramid and the 

ocean exhibits in the Aquarium 

Pyramid, I'm chasing birdies. 

I squint at the target over 350 yards down 

the dew-covered paspalum grass fairway 

before looking down at the ball and 

preparing to take my first swing. Keen 

to avoid deep, sand-filled bunkers and a 

considerable water hazard, I drive my ball 

near a grove of palm trees on the left side 

of the fairway. I'm taking the long way to 

the first green, but I prefer to play it safe. 

Golf course water hazards like ponds and 

streams can be magnets for golf balls. At 

Moody Gardens Golf Course I discovered 

that they are also magnets for something 

else—local and migrating birds. 

Putting at Moody Gardens Golf Course 

Photo courtesy of Moody Gardens 

At Moody Gardens Golf Course 


Water hazard alongside a green 

at Moody Gardens Golf Course 

A few of the hundreds of palms 

at Moody Gardens Golf Club 

20 21

alveston Island's 

abundant natural habitat 

and location on a 

migratory flight path 

extending between South 

America and Alaska make 

it a top bird-watching 

destination. At the 18-hole Moody 

Gardens Golf Course, around 170 acres 

of open grass landscape, freshwater 

pond habitats, hundreds of palms, 

shrubby borders, and wetland areas 

provide rich bird habitat and a fantastic 

opportunity to birdwatch while you 

play. 

On the way to the second tee box, a 

graceful black-necked stilt with skinny 

pillar-like pink legs foraged along 

the edge of a pond. Further into the 

course, an egret stood statue-like with 

its eyes and long black beak pointed at 

the shallow water, no doubt hunting 

for breakfast. Later, a squadron of 

prehistoric-looking pelicans darkened 

the sky. 

The current bird species count at 

Moody Gardens Golf Course is 

207, and the course is in the process 

of getting fully certified under the 

Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary 

Program for Golf. Information about 

bird surveys and sightings at Moody 

Gardens Golf Course is available on 

eBird, an online program that tracks 

bird sightings. While I didn't score any 

of the golf birdies (one under par) I 

was chasing, I saw plenty of the winged 

variety on one of the best public golf 

courses in Texas. 

Yellow-headed Blackbird at Moody Gardens Golf Course 

Photo courtesy of Greg Whittaker 

Little Blue Heron at Moody Gardens Golf Course 


Tropical landscaping around the Moody 

Gardens Golf Course Clubhouse 


Sand-filled bunkers protect the greens at Moody Gardens Golf Course 


22 

If you want to chase some birdies 

of your own at Moody Gardens but 

don't play golf, check out the Chasing 

Birdies activity at Galveston's annual 

Featherfest. During this birding 

and nature photography festival, 18 

participants can bird by golf cart and 

enjoy the natural beauty at Moody 

Gardens Golf Course. 

Reddish Egret at Moody Gardens Golf Course 


23

One of the guns at old Fort 

Charlotte in Barbados, which 

now guards the swimming 

pool at the Hilton Barbados 

Resort and is the perfect 

place for sunsets. 

The Great 

Pirate 

Towns 

of the 

Ameri c as 

Ever since there have been boats, there 

have been pirates. What could be easier for 

criminals than robbing a ship on the high 

seas, far from prying eyes and any type of 

protection? Especially when the ships at sea 

could be carrying treasures of gold and silver. 

It’s no wonder that desperate men turned to 

piracy to seek their fortune. Although most 

of them were hunted down, killed in battle, 

or hanged, they left behind a swashbuckling 

legacy that can still be experienced in a variety 

of forts, historic harbors, and museums. So, 

sign aboard matey, and let’s set sail to the great 

pirate towns of the Americas. 

The guns at old Fort Charlotte 

in Barbados, which now guards 

the swimming pool at the Hilton 

Barbados Resort. 

One of the world's few original pirate flags, 

St. Augustine Pirate Museum 

24 

Story and Photos by Rich Grant 

25

The Buccaneers and 

Brethren of the Coast 

When Spain conquered Central and South America 

in the 1500s-1600s, they had one problem: how to 

get the stolen treasures back home? They decided to 

assemble huge fleets at the largest port on the Atlantic, 

Cartagena, Columbia. Here, under the protection 

of a fortress, Spanish soldiers could bring the gold, 

silver, and emeralds they plundered and stow them on 

heavily armed warships for the final dash to Europe. Of 

course, also waiting in ships just offshore were pirates. 

One of them was the famous privateer, Sir Frances 

Drake. In 1586, he attacked and sacked Cartagena. 

Incredibly, the Cartagena headquarters used by the 

pirate El Draque is still there. With its massive iron 

doors and stone walls, it is a wonderful place to begin 

a tour of stunningly beautiful Old Town Cartagena. 

The UNESCO World Heritage City is surrounded by 

11 km of walls, making it the largest walled city in 

South America. While the ramparts are brimming with 

cannons and towers, inside the walls, the town is filled 

with pleasant cobblestone streets lined with shops, 

hotels, and homes painted a rainbow of pastel colors. 

Two dozen horse-drawn carriages clatter around at 

night, and with old lanterns glowing under palm trees, 

it’s a romantic dream of a pirate haven. 

The walls of Cartagena are studded and cannons, many of 

which have been turned into bars and restaurants 

Pirate ship boat rides are available in Cartagena 

Colorful Cartagena. Women in traditional outfits will 

pose for $1 along the pastel-colored streets. 

C 

A 

R 

T 

A 

G 

E 

N 

A 

• 

You can learn about the real pirates who attacked 

Cartagena at the Naval Museum (exhibits in Spanish 

only, but English guides available) or at the massive 

San Felipe de Barajas Castle, the largest single fort in 

the Americas, built on a hill above the town. Why 

build a fortress on a hill instead of in the harbor? 

Because that’s how Drake attacked and sacked the city. 

The romantic streets of Cartagena are lit by historic lanterns. 

C 

O 

L 

O 

M 

B 

I 

A 

Pirate exhibit in 

the Naval Museum 

in Cartagena 

The wildly colorful streets of Cartagena which are 

lined with flowering trees. 

San Felipe de Barajas Castle, the largest fortress in South America. 

26 27

Protecting the 

Caribbean 

Mural in the National Park in San Juan, 

Puerto Rico shows the walls and 

fortresses that protected the city 

S 

A 

N 

J 

U 

A 

N 

• 

P 

U 

E 

R 

T 

O 

R 

IC 

O 

Once the treasure fleets left Cartagena, 

they had to sail the treacherous waters 

of the Caribbean. To protect them, Spain 

built two incredible fortresses, El Morro 

– “the Bull” and Castillo San Cristobal, 

at the entrance to the Caribbean in San 

Juan, Puerto Rico. Now maintained by 

the National Park Service, their towering 

stone walls and museums present the 

most in-depth look at the lengths the 

Spanish had to go to fight these pirates. 

Did the defenses work? Well, our friend 

pirate Drake attacked San Juan in 1595 – 

and failed to capture the town. 

Today, the forts overlook the peninsula of 

Old San Juan that juts into the Caribbean 

like a thumb. Here, the sea is sparkling 

blue, beaches begin at the edge of the 

fortified stone walls, and the harbor, 

once filled with galleons, is now packed 

with a fleet of the world’s largest cruise 

ships. Nearly every house is covered with 

flowering trees, and (fittingly for a pirate 

town) you can tour the world’s largest rum 

distillery – Bacardi’s. Even the historic 

streets (Adoquines) are colorful. They 

are made of blue bricks that were cast 

from furnace slag and brought over on 

Spanish ships as ballast. Under the light of 

flickering lanterns, the streets glow with 

color as deep blue as the sea. 

National Park ranger in El Morro fortress 

El Morro, the Bull, is the Castillo 

San Felipe del Morro, and one of 

the best interpreted fortresses 

in English in the world since it is 

now a National Park. 

Walls surround the 

historic shore of 

Old San Juan, 

Puerto Rico 

Castillo de San Marcos was built of coquina, a local 

soft stone that absorbed cannonballs and was able to 

withstand a British siege. 

Catching the 

Trade Winds 

Next, the Spanish treasure fleets had to sail to the 

eastern shore of Florida to catch the favorable 

trade winds to Spain. It was here that they were 

most vulnerable to pirates, so in 1565, the oldest 

city in the United States, St. Augustine, FL, was 

built for one purpose: to fight pirates. The Spanish 

came to the hot, humid, bug-infested swamp 

that was Florida and laid out the first European 

grid-style town, a real city with streets and plazas. 

For protection, nine wood forts were built -- and 

destroyed by pirates in just the early years. Our 

friend, the infamous pirate Drake, burned the 

town in 1586, 34 years before the Pilgrims landed 

at Plymouth Rock. 

By 1672, Spain had enough and construction 

started on the Castillo de San Marcos – the oldest 

and best-preserved stone fort in the United States. 

Today, the huge diamond-shaped fortress is a 

National Monument. You can walk the ramparts 

along the top of its towering, 28-foot-tall walls, 

defend the drawbridge, climb out on the bastions 

for a view of the harbor, and watch cannons being 

fired by re-enactors in Spanish uniforms. 

It's just a musket shot from the fort to the St. 

Augustine Pirate & Treasure Museum. This is 

the largest and most authentic collection of pirate 

artifacts ever displayed under one roof. Of course, 

there are not many pirate artifacts! Most of the 

pirates were hanged or killed (Blackbeard went 

down with five bullet holes and 20 sword cuts, and 

they sliced off his head for good measure). 

Entrance to the Castillo de San Marcos. 

Pirate Treasure Museum 

St. Augustine captures feel of 

a pirate town. 

St. Augustine, Florida has been 

burned by pirates and the British, 

but is now a beautiful colonial 

town of plazas and fountains. 

St. George Street looks like a 

setting for pirate movies. 

So, there are not a lot of genuine artifacts, but you can see 

Blackbeard’s blunderbuss, one of the three remaining “Jolly 

Roger” pirate flags, and Captain Thomas Tew’s original 

treasure chest – the only known authentic pirate chest in 

existence. 

The museum is just one of St. Augustine’s pirate attractions. 

On their quaint pedestrian streets lined with taverns and 

shops, you can’t throw a cutlass without hitting some mention 

of pirates. Or even a real pirate. A half dozen people in pirate 

costumes continually walk the streets posing for pictures. 

S 

T 

A 

U 

G 

U 

S 

T 

I 

N 

E 

• 

F 

L 

O 

R 

ID 

A 

28 

29

B 

R 

I 

D 

G 

E 

T 

O 

W 

N 

• 

B 

A 

R 

B 

A 

D 

O 

S 

30 

The Sentries & Corps of Drums 

of Barbados holds a changing 

of the guard ceremony on 

Thursday mornings. 

The Mount Gay Barbados Rum 

distillery is the oldest licensed 

distillery in the world. They offer 

tours and an excellent lunch with rum 

tastings and Bajan local foods. 

Barbados Ladies 

The view of Bridgetown, the 

capital of Barbados, from the 

Hilton Barbados Resort 

The Richest Place on Earth 

England missed out on the gold and silver of the New World, but they found 

another treasure. Sugar. Britain introduced coffee in 1650, chocolate in 1657, 

and tea in 1660. Sugar consumption quadrupled and then doubled again. It 

was white gold. And then some genius discovered how to make rum out of a 

worthless sugar byproduct, molasses. By the late 1600s, Barbados, a little coral 

island off the coast of Venezuela, was found to be perfect for growing sugar and 

it quickly became the richest place on earth with a population of 75,000 – larger 

than all 13 American colonies combined. Of course, most of the population 

were enslaved Africans. To oversee the enslaved and fight off pirates, Barbados 

had to be defended. Unlike the Spanish, who built one huge fortress to protect a 

port, Barbados constructed 42 different forts armed with 463 cannons. Pirates 

never attacked it. But its rich merchant ships stuffed with sugar, slaves, and rum 

became the pirate’s favorite target. 

Today in Barbados, you can tour The Garrison which was the center of British 

defense in the Western Hemisphere for 100 years. A UNESCO World Heritage 

Site, it is the most authentic military garrison in the British empire with 

cannons, tunnels, and a fun weekly changing of the guard. Rum was invented 

in Barbados and if you want to drink like a pirate, there’s no better place than 

on tours at Mount Gay, the oldest distillery in the world. 

Conch is the national dish of the Bahamas and is as tasty as it is beautiful. 

If you want it any fresher than found at Fish Fry, go and catch it yourself. 

Actually, when you order, the restaurant will send someone out to an 

underwater stockpile in the back of the restaurant to bring some in for you 

The Pirate Republi c 

One reason Barbados was not attacked was that during 

the “Golden Age of Piracy” (1650-1725), the greatest 

conglomeration of pirates in history assembled at Nassau, 

the Bahamas, where the corsairs created their own country 

-- an actual Pirate Republic that terrorized the Americas and 

even challenged the European powers. All the famous pirates 

made it to Nassau – 2,000 outlaws including Blackbeard, 

“Calico Jack” Rackham, the women pirates Anne Bonney and 

Mary Read, and Captain “Black Bart” Roberts, who said of 

pirating, “It was a short life and a merry one.” 

Today, Nassau is the pirate capital of the Americas. The 

Pirates of Nassau Museum is a hoot - a bit like walking 

(instead of floating) through Disney’s Pirates of the 

Caribbean ride with a reproduction of Blackbeard’s ship, 

the 130-foot-long, 16-gun corvette, The Revenge. The ship 

creaks, seagulls squawk, and water laps at the stone quay. 

How good the illusion is may depend on how many beers 

you had at the nearby Pirate Republic Brewing Company. 

But kids are sure to enjoy it and the museum does a fantastic 

job of telling the true historical story of the rouges who once 

ruled this town. 

Eventually, England tired of the pirate nuisance and sent 

Woodes Rodgers (a former pirate himself) to Nassau in 

1718 with three warships and an ultimatum for the pirates to 

choose: “Death or pardon.” In short order, Rodgers cleaned 

up the pirate den. He described his actions as Expulsis Piratis 

– Restituta Commercia, words that still adorn the official seal 

of the Bahamas – “Pirates Expelled – Commerce Restored.” 

Woodes 

Rodgers 

statue in the 

parking lot 

of the British 

Colonial Hilton 

Hotel, Nassau. 

He looks 

better here 

than he must 

have in real 

life. When he 

was a pirate, 

he got shot 

in the face, 

blowing away 

his jaw and 

many of his 

teeth. 

Nassau maintains its colonial tropical feel and the nation's 

official seal, still displayed on government buildings, is 

Expulsis Piratis -- Restituta Commercia -- Pirates Expelled, 

Commerce Restored 

The Pirates of Nassau Museum tells the story of the actual 

Pirate Republic that existed here in the Bahamas and 

includes a life-size replica of Blackbeard's ship, the Revenge, 

and many dioramas of from the Golden Age of Piracy. 

The pink colonial atmosphere of Nassau 

A life-size replica of Blackbeard's ship 

N 

A 

S 

S 

A 

U 

• 

F 

L 

O 

R 

ID 

A 

31

SAVORING 

SINGAPORE 

ver the past 22 years, I 

have been to Singapore 

dozens of times. My first 

trip was in 2002 with 

my wife and life partner 

Regina, a Singaporean. Over 

the years, we spent many weeks 

visiting family and friends. In 

2018, we decided to spend winter in 

Singapore. I have had the privilege 

of seeing Singapore through the 

eyes of a tourist and the eyes of a 

native-born Singaporean. 

In 2023, more than 13 million people 

visited Singapore. Once seen as 

a stopover on the way to other places 

in Asia, Singapore now appears on 

every list of top places to visit. There is 

a lot to see, do, eat, and experience in 

Singapore. A few days in the city-state is 

enough for some people, while at least a 

week is needed for serious exploration, 

and four months is just fine for me. 

One of the best views of Marina Bat Sands is from the walkways 

at the top of the Supertrees in Gardens By The Bayr. 

The Merlion, with the head of the lion and the body of a 

fish, is the official symbol of Singapore. Marina Bay Sands 

is a modern symbol of the country with the world’s largest 

and longest infinity pool on the 57th floor. 

32 

Story and Photos by Sue Davies 

love the food in Singapore. As soon as we arrive, I head straight 

for a hawker center. Singapore food is the original fusion cuisine 

with Malay, Indian, and Chinese (primarily Cantonese, Hokkien, 

and Teo Chew) influences. The best food is found at hawker centers 

(food courts) which have dozens of stalls serving local food. Several 

hawker stalls currently have or have had Michelin stars, and many are 

designated as Michelin Bib Gourmands. While there are hawker 

centers designed for tourists (Lau Pasat, Newton. and Maxwells 

come to mind), I prefer to go to a neighborhood hawker center where 

the food is more authentic and cheaper. 

Noodle dishes are my favorites. Char kway teow, laksa, fried Hokkien 

prawn noodles, wonton mee, satay, Hainanese chicken rice, and kaya toast 

are must-haves. Chili crab is another and there are many places to eat 

Singapore’s national dish. Singaporeans like their food spicy, sometimes 

spicier than I like it. When I try out a new hawker center, I go straight 

to the stall with the longest line as it is likely to have excellent food. For 

special occasions, I’ll go to one of the 55 Michelin-starred restaurants in 

Singapore. 

For Japanese food, I go to Takashimaya, a hidden gem for all things 

Japanese on Orchard Road. There are also some unique dining 

experiences—dining on a cable car over Sentosa Island, on the Singapore 

Flyer, or at Ocean’s restaurant with a table next to the giant aquarium. 

Char Kway Teo is one of the many noodle 

dishes that can be sampled at a Hawker Center 

in Singapore. Hawker Cetner are food courts, 

mostly outdoors, with some of the best and 

cheapest food in the city/state. 

Durian, a unique fruit of the region 

People either love or hate Durian, a distinctive 

fruit of the region. One my third try, I developed 

an appreciation for the fruit. 

33

Singapore’s Botanic Garden is a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site. Established in 1859, the orchid 

garden is one of highlights of a trip to the Botanic 

Gardens. It is home to hundreds of orchids and 

can take hours to view. It is one of our favorite 

places in Singapore. 

My favorite time to see the Supertrees is 

at night. I go to the sound and light shows 

every time that I am in Singapore. It’s 

short, but beautifully done. Time it right 

and you can see the Marina Bay Sands 

fountain and light show right after. 

The Former Ford Factory is the location of the 

surrender of the British to the Japanese during 

World War II. It tells the story of the war from three 

perspectives—Singapore, British and Japanese. It 

is an important part of WWII history in Asia. 

fter having my fill of Singaporean food, the Singapore Botanic 

Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is my next stop. I 

especially love the orchid garden with its dozens of varieties 

growing in their natural habitat. After that, I’m on to the 

Supertree Grove at Gardens by the Bay. The towering 

Supertree Grove is an eco-friendly wonder rising almost 

50 meters. I go at night to catch the sound and light show. In the daytime, 

the Cloud Forest and the Flower Dome are lovely as are the rest of the 

gardens. For special exhibits, it is important to book in advance to avoid 

the lines. 

While in the area, I take in the iconic views of Marina Bay Sands. I have 

dinner or drinks at one of the restaurants at the top of MBS (as the locals 

call it) and watch the sunset. MBS also sells day passes for the infinity 

pool which, at 380 meters, is the highest in the world. In the evening, 

I go to the MBS light show. It is possible to see the light shows at the 

Supertrees and MBS on the same evening. 

As a museum-goer, I can spend hours at the Art Science Museum which 

has cutting-edge exhibitions at the intersection of art and science. The 

Asian Civilization Museum is my second favorite for its wide range of 

Asian history, art, and culture. I especially enjoy the Islamic art and the 

Tang shipwreck exhibitions. The National Gallery features Southeast 

Asian art and is a good way to explore the artistic culture of the region. I 

love street and public art and Singapore has extensive murals. 

One of my favorite World War II museums in the world is the Former 

Ford Factory, the location of the British surrender to the Japanese during 

World War II. The museum shows the history of World War II from 

three perspectives – Singaporean, British, and Japanese. Coming from a 

Western background, I did not know most of this history and learned a 

great deal during my visit. 

ingapore, Penang, and Malacca are the best places 

to become immersed in Peranakan culture. 

As Chinese immigrants they made their way 

south in the mid-1900s, many Chinese men 

married Malay women and adopted all facets 

of the culture except the Muslim religion. This 

became known as Peranakan culture. There are 

two museums devoted to Peranakan culture in 

Singapore. The Intan requires a reservation to enter and 

has a wonderful collection of Peranakan clothes, dishes, and 

decorations. The Peranakan Museum has a comprehensive 

collection of Peranakan artifacts. When I want to eat 

Peranakan cuisine, I go to one of Violet Oon’s restaurants or 

Charlie’s Peranakan hawker stall in the Golden Mile Food 

Center. 

One of the most well-known resort areas in Singapore is 

Sentosa Island. Here you’ll find lovely beaches, Universal 

Studios, Resorts World’s S. E. A. Aquarium, zip lines, luges, 

laser shows, and much more. For more World War II history, I 

stop by Fort Siloso. 

I love to spend an afternoon exploring the ethnic 

neighborhoods in Singapore. Little India has Mustafa’s– a great 

place for shopping and eating Indian food. Going to Kampong 

Glam to see the impressive Sultan Mosque is always a treat, 

especially during Ramadan. Chinatown is the place to be for 

the Lunar New Year and the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. I go 

into the temple everything I am in Chinatown. There are many 

lovely Chinese and Hindu Temples, mosques, and churches 

in Singapore. For evening activities and restaurants, I go to 

Clarke Quay. There are tons of trendy restaurants and bars in 

the area. Joo Chat is another vibrant neighborhood on the east 

side of the island. 

Pulau Ubin Island, Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, and the 

Southern Ridges are places to go for nature walks, especially to 

see bird migrations. For water views, a bumboat ride along the 

Singapore River is a great way to see Merlion Park and other 

city views. For cultural experiences, I go to Esplanade Theaters 

on the Bay or the Victoria Theater. For shopping, Orchard 

Road is a road of malls with every designer store imaginable. 

Getting around Singapore is very easy. The trains and buses 

are cheap and efficient. Grab is Singapore’s version of Uber 

and is easy to book. 

I have been to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple at least a 

dozen times. It is a must do in Singapore. Especially at 

night. To go inside (highly recommended) you must visit 

during the day. 

The Lunar New Year is a festive time in Singapore. Chinatown 

is bustling, especially the on the eve of the New Year. 

Lion Dances are an important part of the festivities. I highly 

recommend going to the Chingay Parade to see performers 

from all over the region. 

In years past, parents would take their children 

Haw Par Villa to teach them about filial piety and 

other customs. The Ten Gates of Hell scared my 

wife on these visits. I recommend going. The new 

Hells Museum shows how the afterlife is viewed in 

many different cultures. 

34 

Har Paw Villa and the Hell’s Museum are unique Singaporean 

experiences. A bit kitschy, the park has been around since 1937, courtesy 

of the Tiger Balm founder Aw Boon Haw. It features the Ten Courts 

of Hell and other displays of mythical and cultural stories. The Hells 

Museum, a newer addition, explores how religions and cultures relate to 

the afterlife. 

Since it’s near the equator, Singapore is warm all year round 

with a rainy season in the fall and winter. Over my twenty-two 

years of visiting, I have yet to run out of new discoveries. I 

highly recommend taking the time to savor all that Singapore 

has to offer. 

Sue and Reggie at the Cloud Forest at Gardens by the Bay 

The Cloud Forest is one of the many attractions at Gardens 

By The Bay. Best to book in advance to avoid the lines. 

35

On a map, the Lake of the Ozarks 

unfolds like a slender, azure-hued 

Chinese dragon with an undulating 

central body and four graceful arms 

propelling it across the heart of central 

Missouri. The construction of the 

Bagnell Dam breathed life into the 

watery wonder in the 1930s, setting 

the stage for a tourism boom that has 

spanned generations. Just as an artist's 

brush strokes create life on a blank 

canvas, the damming of the Osage 

River ushered in an era of discovery for 

people seeking to carve out a getaway 

spot along the lake and its 1,100 miles 

Lake of the Ozarks 

Missouri's Must-Do Road Trip 

Story and Photos by Laura Watilo Blake 

From cliff-hanging castles to subterranean sculptures to water recreation, 

Missouri's top lake destination has a timeless allure that defies the ages. 

of shoreline—more than the coastline 

of Lake Erie, the Great Lake I call 

home now. 

In the 1990s, a friend’s family bought 

a no-frills waterfront home in Gravois 

Mill, at Lake of the Ozarks’ north end. 

I visited soon after. Lisa and I spent a 

good chunk of our days sunning on the 

floating dock, leaping into the water 

every so often to cool off. Eventually, 

her dad would rev up the boat for an 

excursion on the lake. One afternoon, 

Lisa spent time trying to teach me how 

to waterski. It was a dismal failure on 

my part. The only skill I mastered was 

letting go of the handle before the boat 

reached optimal speed. Lisa’s parents 

blamed the boat, but I knew better. 

After many years in absentia, I recently 

programmed the GPS in the direction 

of that same lake house—now owned 

by Lisa and her husband, Steve. This 

time, I had my 10-year-old daughter 

with me to experience a host of 

quintessential activities I remember 

fondly from my childhood, teens, and 

20s—other than waterskiing. 

Soaking up the ethereal charm 

of Ha Ha Tonka State Park 

Outside of being at the cabin again, the 

place I looked forward to seeing most 

was Ha Ha Tonka—one of Missouri's 

most fascinating state parks—located at 

the southern end of the lake’s Niangua 

arm. Its natural geologic wonders include 

sinkholes, caves, cliffs, and a crystal-clear 

spring that spews 48 million gallons of 

refreshingly cold water every day. Ha Ha 

Tonka gets its name from this spring, 

which means "laughing waters" in the 

native Osage language. 

What truly sets this 3,700-acre park 

apart, though, are the remains of a 

stately country estate high upon a bluff 

overlooking what was once a small 

trout-filled lake, which was swallowed up 

when the Lake of the Ozarks took shape. 

The castle-like structure caught fire in 

the 1940s, leaving behind a sandstone 

skeleton. Today, it is a haven for roosting 

vultures that soar over the cliff 's edge, 

riding on the warm temperatures rising 

from the lake. We circled the vacuous 

structure and then wandered some of the 

hiking trails on the precipice. We peeked 

into the ruins of the water tower, echoing 

with the coos of a pigeon basking in the 

sunlight streaming through one of its 

windows. 

The lookout at Ha Ha Tonka State Park, near the mansion ruins, offers a 

breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding Ozark landscape. Perched 

atop towering cliffs, visitors are treated to sweeping vistas of the rugged terrain, 

dense forests, and the sparkling waters of Lake of the Ozarks below. 

Boaters can seek out the Lake of the Ozarks’ quiet 

coves for relaxation and water recreation. 

36 

A serene calm washes over the Lake of the Ozarks as the sun disappears behind the trees. 

The words “let’s go out on th boat” triggers the promise of endless 

possibilities for fun and excitement on the water. It's the beginning of 

unforgettable experiences and cherished memories with friends and family 

37

The water along the Spring Trail at Ha Ha Tonka State Park is a 

mesmerizing sight to behold. Crystal clear and serene, it flows gently 

through the lush forest before spilling into the Lake of the Ozarks. 

t the bottom of the cliff, the Spring Trail—a 

favorite of mine—follows a spring-fed stream 

to its source beneath a rocky outcropping. 

In my teens, my friends and I would take the 

trail, to splash around in the shallow stream, 

balance on fallen logs, skip rocks, and shiver as 

we lowered ourselves into the 58-degree water. 

The park has since closed the spring to swimmers 

to help protect the delicate ecosystem; however, if 

you want to cool off, you can jump in the lake near 

the trailhead's parking lot. There's also an option 

to rent kayaks from a lakeside kiosk there, but you 

must pay and pick up a key at the park's visitors 

center first. A two-hour rental runs $20 for a single 

kayak or $25 for a tandem. 

We were handed a floating keychain emblazoned 

with the instructions: "Get in - Sit Down - Shut 

up - Hold on." Once we lowered ourselves into the 

kayaks, we couldn’t abide by the instructions. My 

daughter delighted in jumping out of the kayak and 

swimming in the cove where the spring-fed stream 

meets the lake. Meanwhile, my gaze wandered 

upward, drawn to the castle ruins perched on 

the cliff above us. I'm still in awe of the park's 

extraordinary setting and singular beauty that still 

has a hold on me after all these years. 

Exploring the showy 

caverns of Bridal Cave 

Another unique feature of the Lake 

of the Ozarks lies underground. 

Bridal Cave echoes with legendary 

tales of Native American lovers 

pledging their devotion to each other, 

surrounded by stalactites, stalagmites, 

columns, fragile soda straws, and 

other impressive onyx formations 

that have taken centuries to grow. The 

stories gave rise to its name, while also 

prompting more than 4,000 couples 

to tie the knot within this mystical 

underworld. 

Located in Camdenton, at mile marker 

10.5 of Lake of the Ozarks’ Niangua 

arm, the cool embrace of the cave 

is a great place to find respite from 

the summer heat—no matter your 

relationship status. We took a onehour 

guided tour through dimly lit 

passages connecting eight chambers. 

The second chamber is the infamous 

Bridal Chapel, where a magnificent 

display of stalactites makes up 

what's known as the "Pipe Organ." 

The formation indeed produces 

sonorous tones with each gentle 

thump; however, the instrument has 

been silenced following damage to its 

delicate features in the past. 

The cave was expanded in the 1990s 

with a blast of dynamite that revealed 

more hidden wonders within the 

depths. The final stop on the tour is 

Mystery Lake, a serene 30-foot-deep 

aqua-colored lagoon shaped by the 

slow dance of dripping cave water. 

Cool air spills from the entrance to 

Bridal Cave through a gate blocking 

its entrance between tours. 

A tour guide leads a group through the 

formations within Bridal Cave. 

The Pipe Organ formation in the chapel 

chamber of Bridal Cave has been the 

backdrop for thousands of weddings. 

A bachelorette party tours Bridal Cave. 

38 

A kayaker heads directly for the ruins of a stately mansion 

sitting high atop a cliff. 

The stone shell is all that remains of the cliff-hugging 

mansion that overlooks the Lake of the Ozarks. The 

castle-like structure caught fire in the 1940s. 

TIP: Before the tour at Bridal Cave, 

head to the gift shop adjacent to the 

entrance. There, kids can grab a free 

bag of fish food to feed the giant carp 

gathered underneath the dock below 

the cave’s cliffside entrance. The large 

fish wriggle and writhe as they vie for 

some of the tasty treats. 

Flowstone formations inside Bridal Cave 

39

Lake of the Ozarks has a way of producing lots of smiles and unforgettable memories. 

GETTING OUT ON THE WATER 

All kinds of recreational activities 

thrive at the Lake of the Ozark from 

golfing and go-karting on land to 

fishing, tubing, and wakeboarding 

on the water. Even if you don’t have 

your own boat, the possibilities are as 

vast as the lake itself thanks to a fleet 

of powerboat, pontoon, and Jet Ski 

rentals. 

On our last afternoon at the lake, we 

joined the parade of boats zipping 

back and forth across the lake. 

Though determined to conquer 

waterskiing once and for all, my 

apprehension about face-planting 

at high speeds remained steadfast. 

It was also harder than I remember 

to keep the skis upright as I waited 

for the thrust of the boat engine. I 

felt the tell-tale tug on the rope as I 

gripped the handle. Just as I began 

to rise from the water, I let go of the 

rope, along with any desire to try 

the activity ever again. To be honest, 

none of us successfully waterskied 

that day. We blame the boat’s lack of 

get up and go, but we all knew the 

truth. 

The fun truly began when we 

switched out the skis for a towbehind 

inflatable raft and spent 

the rest of our time on the water 

watching Kinley's beaming smile 

as she bounced over the waves. It’s 

those moments of pure joy that truly 

capture the essence of this beloved 

destination. 

LAKE OF THE OZARKS IN BRIEF: 

Where you base yourself in the Lake of the Ozarks largely depends on your personal interests: 

• Lake Ozark: This town is a popular destination for shopping, dining, and entertainment, with 

attractions like the Bagnell Dam Strip offering a vibrant nightlife scene. 

• Osage Beach: Known for its upscale resorts, golf courses, and outlet malls, Osage Beach is 

a favorite among families and those seeking a mix of relaxation and recreation. 

• Camdenton: Located near the Lake's eastern shores, Camdenton offers a more laid-back 

atmosphere with opportunities for hiking, exploring caves, and visiting local wineries. 

Accomodations: There are all kinds of waterfront accommodations at the Lake of the Ozarks from resorts to 

condos to luxury vacation homes. Try Lake Ozark’s Alhonna Resort, the setting that inspired the Netflix drama, Ozark. 

Waterfront Dining: The Lake of the Ozarks boasts numerous waterfront restaurants with lively atmospheres 

and diverse offerings. Favorites include Landshark Bar & Grill at Mile Marker 26 and Neon Taco at Mile Marker 0. For a 

more refined experience, 1932 Reserve complements its lake views from Mile Marker 17.5 with a locally sourced menu. 

Navigating by local landmarks adds a charming touch when finding your way 

around Lake of the Ozarks’ neighborhoods. To get to our friend’s lake house, 

we drove past the Tree Face and Shoe Fence before turning right at Cup Tree. 

40 

At Lake of the Ozarks, boating reigns as a beloved pastime. 

Thrill-seekers flock to the waters for adrenaline-pumping activities 

like wakeboarding, water skiing and tubing. 

Reflecting on my journey to 

rediscover the charm of the Lake of 

the Ozarks, my daughter's eagerness 

to return speaks volumes. From the 

enchanting depths of Bridal Cave to 

the majestic ruins of Ha Ha Tonka, 

and the exhilarating adventure on 

the lake, the trip left an indelible 

mark on our hearts. 

Osage Beach, Missouri, offers a 

delightful blend of shopping and 

dining experiences that cater 

to all tastes. For a sweet treat, 

head to Randy's Frozen Custard, 

renowned for its indulgent 

Ozark Turtle—vanilla ice cream 

smothered in rich hot fudge and 

topped with crunchy pecans. 

41

42 

Expensive Vodka - 

Super Premium or Snake Oil? 

When is a Shot of Vodka Worth $50, $100 or $1,000? 

Do Bottles Make Booze Better? 

I know people - friends, family, casual 

acquaintances - who have made a 

cult out of tasting, sipping, guzzling, 

and cooking with vodka. I never 

understood it. I mean after all – in 

most cases it’s just straight-grain 

alcohol diluted to proof - usually 

around 80 proof (40 percent alcohol). 

In fact, the U.S. Bureau of Alcohol, 

Firearms, and Tobacco (BATF) 

originally defined it as an alcoholic 

beverage “without distinctive 

character, aroma, or taste.” 

My brother used to rave about his 

vodka spaghetti sauce recipe. It was 

all the rage. I scoffed. Like, why 

bother? If vodka is just clear alcohol 

diluted to proof – and you cook 

the sauce long enough to burn the 

alcohol off, all you are left with is 

the water used to dilute it in the first 

place. Makes sense, doesn’t it? It turns 

out I was wrong. Science suggests 

that alcohol can extract compounds 

that are not soluble in water or fat – 

like esters and terpenes. Esters give 

tomatoes their aroma and terpenes 

give them their taste. Arguably, 

cooking with alcohol breaks down the 

compounds creating a richer, more 

intense flavor. 

Story and Photos by Mike Howard 

And it’s not just pasta sauce. It 

turns out that adding vodka to 

marinade breaks down the collagen 

in meat, releasing natural flavors and 

tenderizing tougher cuts of meat. You 

can even substitute vodka for water 

in pie dough recipes for a flakier, 

more tender crust. 

Okay, fine. So, I was wrong. But the 

fact remains that the very qualities 

of vodka that generate these culinary 

hacks – colorless, all but odorless, 

and tasteless (other than a slight 

alcohol burn), render it unsuitable 

for bon vivant indulgences. Special 

tumblers, swirling, sniffing, spitting, 

clearing the palate, and repeating 

the process, all the while waxing 

poetic over delicate all-but intangible 

nuances of “nose,” “mouth-feel,” or 

“bouquet” are of dubious utility. 

Brandys, Bourbons, Scotches, 

Whiskeys, and Irish Malts can 

demand princely prices. But they all 

have the advantage of being aged in 

barrels and casks of various woods, 

under various charring processes, 

and being aged for anywhere from 

five to twenty-five years – even 

longer. 

Not so vodka. 

In May of 2020, the BATF revised 

their definition of vodka. “Vodka 

is neutral spirits which may be 

treated with up to two grams per 

liter of sugar and up to one gram 

per liter of citric acid.” But the 

benefits of aging in charred barrels 

are out. Not if you want to call it 

vodka. “Products to be labeled as 

vodka may not be aged or stored 

in wood barrels at any time except 

when stored in paraffin-lined wood 

barrels and labeled as bottled in 

bond. The revision also stipulates 

that: “Vodka treated and filtered 

with not less than one ounce of 

activated carbon or activated 

charcoal per 100 wine gallons of 

spirits may be labeled as ‘charcoal 

filtered.’” 

When I think about “original” 

vodka, I think potatoes. But even 

back in the earlies, from Russia 

to Poland, and Latvia to Finland, 

distillers used what they had – 

potatoes, wheat, rye, even corn. 

Nowadays mash can even contain 

sugar cane or rice 

AAll properly functioning stills 

produce a high-proof clear alcohol. 

If it’s from potatoes or wheat or rye 

or corn or sugar cane or rice – even 

from pears or apples or cherries or 

grapes, I suspect you could call it 

“vodka.” You could also call it rum, 

or brandy, or “unaged whisky,” but 

until it is barreled, as far as I’m 

concerned? It’s all just fresh-fromthe-still 

white-lightning moonshine. 

So, what about all these high-priced 

designer vodkas that seem to be all 

the rage nowadays? Sure, they are 

out there. There is Eye of the Dragon 

vodka which costs $5.5 million; 

Billionaire Vodka, at $3.75 million; 

and Russo-Baltique vodka at $1.3 

million (yep MILLION). Russo- 

Baltique is bottled in 30mm-thick 

bullet-proof glass and its stopper is 

white and yellow gold, encrusted 

with diamonds. 

You could buy a bottle of Absolut 

Black Pinstripe Crystal for $10,000 

in hand-blown and hand-cut crystal 

(they’ll throw in a pinstriped bag 

and two matching crystal tumblers). 

There’s no shortage of otherwise 

non-descript vodkas in fancy bottles 

that can set you back thousands 

of dollars. Belver Bears Belvedere 

can sell for $7,200, Oval Swarovski 

Crystal for $6,922, Stoli Elit 

Himalayan for $3,000, and Swarovski 

Alizé for $2,000. Non-black Absolut 

Pinstripe can be had for around 

$1,500. 

Even excluding the stunts of bottling 

unaged alcohol in gem-studded, 

gold-encrusted, hand-blown limitededition 

decanters, vodka can be dear. 

You can pay $130 for Chopin Family 

Reserve, $130 for Beluga Noble Gold, 

$62 for Crystal Head, or $58 for 

Boyd & Blair Potato Vodka. 

But should you? 

Depending upon store markups and 

state taxes, Beluga Noble Export is 

a comparative bargain at $50. Grey 

Goose can weigh in at $40, Tito’s 

Handmade at around $24, and Ketel 

One at $23 (per 750 ml bottle). 

Come on. It’s only VODKA. 

I can find 750 ml bottles of vodka 

at discount markets for $7, and 

sometimes, 1.75 L bottles for $11. 

They might not be in fancy flint glass 

decanters, but those plastic jugs are 

recyclable. 

Twenty-five years back, McCormick, 

one of America’s oldest known 

continuously operating distilleries, 

was accused of being involved in a 

smuggling operation shipping pure 

grain alcohol to Russia. Tinted blue, 

and exported as “cleaning solvent,” the 

dye was cooked out “on the other end,” 

diluted to proof (one gallon of 192 

proof ethyl alcohol yields 2.5 gallons 

at 80 proof), resold and re-marketed 

as vodka. Imagine buying “genuine” 

Russian vodka – maybe Krystal, 

or Stolichnaya, or any number of 

“authentic” Eastern bloc brand names, 

and mooning over the “mouth feel,” or 

“nose,” or delicate caramel, vanilla, or 

citrus notes - only to read about ethyl 

alcohol “cleaning solvent” smuggling 

scams. 

I recently hosted a blind vodka-tasting 

tournament with some chums and 

acquaintances. Offerings ran the 

gamut from corn, rice, rye, potato, 

sugarcane, and wheat-based “vodkas.” 

For good measure, I included a can of 

Still House clear corn whiskey, and a 

disguised bottle of Everclear 190 proof 

grain alcohol, diluted with plain tap 

water to 80 proof. 

For mouthfeel, nose, palate, and finish? 

The Everclear won. Hands down. 

43

A Muzungu Wanders in Uganda 

Story and Photos by Dennis Garrels 

“Uganda is truly the Pearl of Africa. The Kingdom is a fairy tale. The scenery is different, the climate is different, 

and most of all, the people are different from anything elsewhere to be seen in the whole range of Africa.” 

Winston Churchill, November 1907 

There are dozens 

of ramshackle 

shacks selling 

cell phones to 

meat to tailormade 

dresses. 

Motorcycles 

often carry two 

people plus the 

driver. Often, the 

load includes 

baggage. 

hen I saw her, she was looking at me. 

My left hand went out questioningly, and 

I held my camera out similarly. Her nod 

was almost imperceptible. Click. Another 

slight nod. It only took one shot to capture 

the noble essence of that African woman 

with red clay etched into her feet. I’ve photographed 

Queen Elizabeth II and Mother Teresa. Now I have a 

queen, a would-be saint, and a pearl in my portfolio. 

What does it take to be such an emblem of serenity? There 

are dozens of ramshackle stands surrounding her. Everything 

from cell phones to meat to tailor-made dresses are for sale 

in those shacks. She must block out the cacophony of noise 

made by hundreds of sellers and shoppers. And the buzz of the 

motorcycles darting around people and cars. 

I walk past bagayi (men) surrounded by those ubiquitous 

motorcycles. They watch and wait for the muzungu (me) to get 

hit by a motorcycle carrying three people. Muzungu? Roughly 

translated, it means “white wanderer.” Suits me. 

44 

Just as generations before them 

have done, two women and a 

girl carry items on their heads. 

45

A boy stands on a bench with arms crossed as if to say that he will get his way. 

A girl leans on 

her mother as her 

attention is on a 

photographer. 

A serene woman looks 

at a photographer 

as if there were not 

a cacophony of 

sounds and people 

surrounding her. 

hen, I had an opportunity to talk to locals–my 

favorite thing about traveling. I was able to 

watch family interactions. Very often, I'd talk to 

people before or after the group visited. Most people 

in Uganda speak English. I learned as much 

about their lives and history as I could in fifteen 

minutes alone with them. 

An almost blind woman 

is proud of her colorful 

tablecloth.. 

’m about to board our bus when I see something 

that makes me laugh out loud. A young boy, about 

four years old, stands on a bench, arms crossed as if 

to say, “I’m serious, and I’m going to get my way.” In 

return, he gets a look that says “Good luck. You can 

stand there all day. You are not going to get your 

way” That stance and attitude must be universal. 

They all permitted me to take their photos. One woman, 

almost blind, could see colors better than anything. Bright 

colors, she said, bring her joy. She told me to make sure that 

I included her tablecloth in the picture. Elsewhere, bongo 

players made sure that I photographed them. 

A girl and her 

mother share an 

intimate moment. 

Back on the bus, we continue our trip to the Hands of 

Love Orphanage. On the trip, I saw the Africa that I had 

seen in the National Geographic in the sixties. People still 

live in grass huts. Women and children carry plastic yellow 

water cans and other items on their heads. A man pushes a 

bicycle stacked with wooden chairs. There are no straps. It 

looks like a 10-foot-high Jenga game. 

46 

A man pushes a bike loaded with chairs. It 

resembles a Jenga game. 

I was in Uganda to document a short-term mission group 

to the large orphanage south of Kampala. Many would 

help with a myriad of projects. Some polished hundreds 

of shoes while others taught physics and other subjects. 

Others painted and did construction work. Others would 

go out and talk to people. 

Three drummers 

play bongos 

outside a rural 

Uganda building. 

47

Man watching the kids playing 

ver a week after arriving, we 

boarded a bus to leave. On the 

trip, I saw why Winston Churchill 

mentioned Uganda's scenery. I 

saw rolling hills, baobab trees, 

and the impressive Lake Victoria. 

Armed soldiers stationed around 

the bridge over the Nile ordered us 

not to take pictures. If we did, they would 

take our cameras. I believed them. I had 

expected the river to be wide and muddy. 

Here, not far from its start, it reflected 

the blue sky and was narrow. Trees and 

greenery surrounded the historic river. 

Kampala’s Balikuddembe Market (the 

Owino Market) encompasses over 17 

blocks. The smell of street food radiates 

from the center of the capital city. One can 

hear the sounds of sellers and shoppers 

from blocks away. People come from 

neighboring countries to shop. With 

the ability to accommodate over 50,000 

traders, it is the largest market in Uganda. 

The sun sets over a 

village in rural Uganda. 

A tailor makes dresses that are 

often sold at markets in Kampala. 

Around 300,000 customers from all 

different social backgrounds and incomes 

visit daily. Like-new clothing from 

designers like Gucci and Calvin Klein sells 

for one-half retail price. Watch people 

bargain for appliances, electronics, and 

even their groceries. It's a perfect place for 

people-watching because it's where many 

different cultures merge. 

Bikes are often used like 

trucks in Uganda. 

An outside meat market that 

makes Americans cringe. 

Street vendors are scattered throughout the 

market. Want a snack? Try some nsenene 

fried with onions, chili, and salt in their 

own oil. I am told they taste like fried 

chicken skin—I'll never know. Nsenene 

is Ugandan for grasshopper. Or would 

you rather have a variety of fried animal 

organs? 

48 

Many of us want to eat where the locals 

eat. There's a way that you can do many 

times better than eating at a local dive in 

Kampala. How about shopping for dinner 

with a local family? Then, you go to their 

home to cook, eat, and visit with them. 

Google "Viator cooking class Uganda" to 

create a memory that will last forever. 

NOTE: I visited Uganda a few years ago. Now, the U.S. Department of State has issued a travel advisory. Study their site 

at www.travel.state.gov before traveling there. Regardless of your destination, enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment 

Program (STEP). That program provides you with alerts and makes it easier to locate you in an emergency. 

49

Sandy Bornstein on a sunrise bicycle ride 

Embracing Colorado’s 

Outdoor Activities 

Instead of becoming a recluse, I 

made a conscious effort to reap 

the benefits of living in Colorado. 

Weather permitting, I hiked on 

paths in the Front Range and 

ventured on easy trails in the Rocky 

Mountains. Enjoying nature while 

being physically active always lifted 

my spirits. Occasionally, family 

members and friends joined me. 

In December, my focus shifted to 

downhill skiing. Even though I had 

been skiing for longer than I had 

known Ira, I had yet to ski by myself. 

During my first visit to Keystone 

Resort, I sat in the parking lot 

contemplating how long it 

would take to get out of the 

car. I eventually put on my 

ski boots and strolled to the 

nearby six-person chairlift. 

Since it was the beginning of 

the season, I ended up riding 

to the top of the mountain by 

myself. When it came time to 

raise the safety bar, I wasn’t 

sure if my small stature could 

accomplish it. Fortunately, I 

was able to do it without an 

incident and my brief panic 

attack was abated. 

While it is always more fun to ski 

with others, this winter season I 

skied more times solo. Throughout 

the season, I made it a priority 

to ski regularly. I joined 50+ ski 

groups at two resorts and skied 

with my children and grandchildren 

at Keystone Resort. Whenever 

possible, I visited Keystone’s 

Bergman Bowl to enjoy the majestic 

panoramic views above the tree 

line. By the end of the season, I 

skied 35 times—30 at Keystone 

Resort and five times with the Over 

the Hill program at nearby Copper 

Mountain. This was the most that I 

had ever skied in a season. 

A Respite from Grief 

A Week at Hilton Head Health 

Story and Photos by Sandy Bornstein 

Sandy Bornstein, her son Aaron, and 

Grandkids Hiking in CO Labor Day 2023 

Sandy Bornstein skiing at 

Keystone Resort while grieving 

For decades, Ira and I had 

explored the world. Initially, we 

traveled as a young couple. 

While our children were growing 

up in Illinois and Colorado, we 

embarked on engaging in family 

adventures. As empty nesters, we 

focused on our bucket list filled 

with worldwide destinations and 

romantic cruises. Unlike most 

people who did not travel during 

the pandemic, we were not 

deterred. 

As soon as Ira had regained his 

strength from a craniotomy followed 

by six weeks of chemotherapy 

and radiation, we were on the 

road again while he was being 

treated with another six months 

of chemotherapy. To battle 

glioblastoma, we chose to embrace 

life rather than his terminal brain 

cancer. 

In the aftermath of Ira’s death in July 

2023, I had to find a way to return to 

normalcy. 

When grief consumed my daily 

thoughts and turned every week into 

an unexpected rollercoaster ride, I 

couldn’t imagine how I would ever 

move forward and plan adventures 

alone. Would I be able to travel solo 

during the first year of grieving and 

write about my experiences? I didn’t 

know. 

View from Keystone Resort's 

Bergman Bowl 

50 

51

Sandy Bornstein Sunrise Walk 

Beach Destination 

with an Abundance 

of Activities 

In January, I was looking for a break 

from Colorado’s winter wonderland. A 

few months earlier, I had taken my first 

European riverboat experience aboard 

Uniworld’s River Empress and was now 

focusing on a restorative vacation. I had 

four priorities—a beach destination, an 

assortment of activities that included 

aquatic classes, healthy food options, 

and an easy transfer from the airport. 

For a few moments, I thought about a 

simple option, making a reservation 

at a beach resort. Then I started 

wondering if this was a wise choice for 

an inexperienced solo traveler. What 

type of activities would be geared to 

individuals? Would I be comfortable 

eating every meal by myself surrounded 

by couples and families? 

When Ira was coping with brain cancer, 

we traveled to two wellness resorts in 

the desert—Arizona’s Civana Wellness 

Resort & Spa and Utah’s Red Mountain 

Resort. From these positive experiences, 

I knew that health and wellness facilities 

cater to single travelers, offer a wide 

variety of activities, and serve plantbased 

food options. 

Hilton Head Health Experience 

I took the United Airlines nonstop flight from Denver to 

Savannah, Georgia. Within minutes of gathering my 

baggage, I was in a HHH courtesy van headed to the 

wellness retreat. About an hour later, I arrived. I was 

immediately whisked into the weekly orientation meeting 

where I was given an overview of the retreat’s philosophy, 

a booklet of daily classes and activities, as well as a brief 

tour. Participants were reminded to sign up for the next day 

of classes. Since February is considered a low season, I 

always got my first choices. On more than one occasion, 

I had either a solo class or only a handful of other 

participants joining me. 

Guests usually arrive on Sunday for the seven-day or 

longer programs. While there are multiple programs 

running simultaneously, most of the guests come to this 

resort for weight loss assistance. Even though my objectives 

were different, my individual needs were met every day. 

From my first dinner until my last meal, I did not dine alone 

unless I chose to do so. The other guests always insisted 

that I join them. On more than one occasion, people 

seated at another table voluntarily moved to my table so 

that I would not have to eat by myself. The limited, calorieconscious 

menu surprisingly caters to carnivores and 

people who consume dairy. As a pescatarian who rarely 

eats dairy, I had fewer options. However, the chef was 

willing to accommodate my dietary needs. Healthy snacks 

and beverages were also available throughout the day. 

Avocado Toast with corn and black bean salsa 

Food Hearty Vegetarian Chili with Avocado slices 

Barbeque Scallop Skewers on top of Quinoa and 

Bok Choy Garnished with Pineapple Salsa 

An internet search identified a few 

coastal domestic wellness retreats. 

After reviewing the online information, 

I called each place to learn more. The 

Hilton Head Health (HHH) representative 

answered my questions and reassured 

me that I would be staying in a safe and 

inclusive environment. I chose not to 

identify myself as a travel writer because 

I didn’t anticipate writing about my 

experience. 

Wildlife at Beach 

Salmon Burger served with Salad 

Squash Quesadilla on Whole Wheat tortilla with side 

of corn and black bean salsa 

52 

53

The grounds of this resort were more compact than 

the Western wellness resorts that I previously visited. 

Those destinations catered to a larger audience. 

Guests staying for one of HHH’s weeklong programs 

usually stay in one of the 30 comfortable rooms 

located at the onsite Sweetgrass Inn, while people 

staying for a few weeks or longer sometimes opt for 

an offsite condo. This relatively new hotel is very close 

to the outdoor pool, fitness classes, and dining room. 

The impressive daily offerings fall into seven 

categories—Walking Program, Strength Program, 

Cardio Program, Stretch/Recovery Program, 

Recreation, Thermal Walk, and Core Lectures— and 

run from 7:00 AM to after dinner time. Each morning, 

I started my day with a 45-minute sunrise beach walk. 

My digital images reveal that each day’s beginning 

was a unique and calming experience. 

A van transported participants to a public beach that 

was about 1 ½ miles away. To gain access to the 

beach, I walked through the grounds of the Sonesta 

Resort Hilton Head Island. Before the pandemic, Ira 

and I had been media guests at this property. A few 

tears formed as I remembered our tropical rainstorm 

trip. Even though it had been several years since our 

visit, I felt an inexplicable connection to this place. 

To maximize my beach time, I rented a bicycle and 

helmet for my weeklong stay. At least once a day, I 

bicycled back to the beach where it was possible to 

ride for miles on the compressed sand or simply sit 

and watch the ocean. The ebb and flow of the tide, 

along with the inherent beauty of Hilton Head Island 

satisfied my desire to be in a coastal environment. For 

the first time since Ira’s death, I was able to find joy 

every day at the beach. 

In addition to taking regular fitness classes, I 

expanded my horizons by doing things that I had 

never done before. One morning, I stayed at the 

beach for a Tai Chi class. I also participated in my 

first pickleball class, a barre class, and a dance class 

and worked very hard to learn the proper technique 

of hula hooping. Since I enjoy water aerobics, I 

was in the pool at least once a day. I scurried from 

my guest room to the pool since the early morning 

temperatures were in the 50s. 

Early Morning bicycling at Hilton Head 

Sandy Bornstein Bicycling on beach 

Sandy Bornstein Learning Pickleball 

Pool 

I took two excursions that provided time away from 

HHH. I joined a small group that strolled around 

the Sea Pines Forest Preserve, another place that 

I had previously experienced with Ira. During the 

walk, we encountered a few American alligators, a 

native species of South Carolina’s wetlands. On an 

overcast and blustery Saturday, I visited Daufuskie 

Island, a secluded place, only accessible by a ferry. 

I learned about the culture of the Gullah people, 

as well as the famous people who have chosen to 

reside in this hard-to-reach place. 

Encounter with Alligator during Sea Pines Walk 

After a week, I felt refreshed and ready to head 

north to cold weather and snowy conditions. I was 

sad to say goodbye to the staff and the guests who 

had made me feel a part of something bigger. At the 

airport, Steve, the driver of the HHH van, hugged 

me and called me a “badass.” I quickly asked him 

why he used that descriptor. From his personal 

experience, he had known widows, including his 

own mother, who were reluctant for a year or longer 

to do anything solo in the aftermath of their spouses’ 

death. He was happy that I was using travel to move 

forward. 

Traveling and Grieving 

My HHH respite from grief was easygoing and 

flexible. Since I did not know how I would feel 

on any day, I’m glad that I had the freedom to 

personalize my schedule which included frequent 

trips to the ocean, a couple of side trips, and my 

ability to select my own classes. I redirected my 

attention away from the pervasive grieving process 

by remaining active, having daily opportunities 

to talk with guests and staff, and spending time 

enjoying Hilton Head Island’s natural beauty and 

moderate winter temperatures. 

As a widow, I am grateful that I can follow Ira’s 

motto—Keep Moving and Live without Regrets. 

Bicycle Path Taken to the Beach 

Touring Daufuskie Island 

Sunrise 

54 

55

PURE 

EXHILARATING 

SUN SOAKED 

DOLPHIN SPOTTING 

FOODIE FRIENDLY 

RECONNECTING 

FLORIDA 

Here’s where to explore Florida in all its outdoor glory. From 

exploring trails on and off the water, fresh Florida seafood 

and intriguing small towns, you’ll find a side of Florida that’s 

quiet, relaxed and waiting for discovery. 

56 

PureFlorida.com

TravelWorld International Magazine Summer 2024

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?