SB-issue59_digital

gear
performance. Bob has been quoted as saying, “A lot of people
ask me about volume. They think they’ve got to match their body
weight to a certain volume.
“The Archimedes’ principle says that you’ve got to have
something underwater to displace water and create buoyancy.
Buoyancy is the result of submersing mass. So, if you put extra
inches on the deck, it’s doing zero. It’s giving you volume, but
it’s not floating you. It’s got to be submerged to float you.”
Bob goes on to explain that there are so many other aspects of
surfboard design that surfers should focus on rather than just
volume, such as width, rockers, and concaves.
“You’ve got to have a wider board to float you better than a
narrow one because you add inches that submerge.
(because they surf so well on little boards), the surf industry (for
making it cool to surf on little boards), and the developing surfers
themselves (for believing the hype around small boards).
“The biggest misconception in surfboard design is that you can’t
turn wide boards. One only needs to take a look at guys like Joel
Tudor and Dave Rastovich to see that myth completely busted.
The fact is that, for a developing surfer, it is not the width of
a board that will help them improve their turns, but first and
foremost, it is their technique.
“And how do you improve that technique? By catching plenty
of waves, that’s how. And to catch more waves you are going
to need something to float you — enter width, length, and
thickness into the equation. Add to that the fact that surfing
is first and foremost about fun, and you can’t have any fun let
alone develop your surfing if you’re scratching around on a 6’ 2’’
x 18’’ missing all the waves.”
Greg goes on to explain that it is thanks to the pro surfing
movement that everyday surfers are trying to ride small boards
that are perhaps too small for them. We have to remember that
just because they can, that doesn’t necessarily mean we mere
mortals can.
“Remember, you are not Kelly Slater! This is where surfing differs
from most other sports. If you go and buy yourself the latest
and best tennis racquet, golf clubs or fishing reel, the one used
by all the pros, it is going to help you improve towards that high
standard. Not with surfing. You need the equipment to suit your
body size, ability, and experience. Remember, we don’t all wear
the same size jeans!
“The 90s and early 2000s made surfing small boards cool, and it
has left its legacy on a lot of surfers today. Every time I surf, I see
at least one guy (usually more) that needs a way bigger board
than what they are riding. Much of the time it boils down to not
only the misconception that width is bad, but also the image
side of things. The surf industry directs its surfing equipment at
hotties, and it sweeps up the majority of average surfers with it,
although it has been nice to see the manufacturing companies
starting to make thicker, wider boards again.”
As Greg explains, the reason that guy at your local break rips so
much on a small board is not because of the board, but because
he has a great technique. And, as you get better, you too can
refine your boards in due course.
# 59 // smorgasboarder //
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“So, thickness is not necessarily the answer to flotation. The
most efficient rockers will flow the water under the board and
bring it back to the surface as you pass through.
“Double concaves will get you up on top of the water as soon
as you start moving the board — and that’s when volume
disappears.
“Once you’re up and planing (running on the wave), volume is
not an issue at all. It’s only water in displacement mode paddling
to catch a wave.”
What I believe Bob is addressing is one of the possible
misconceptions of volume, in that it is considered the be-all
and end-all in relation to bouyancy. It is not just volume that
determines how much your board floats.
It’s a sentiment that resonates with Greg Hogan, master
craftsman, custom shaper, and factory manager at Island
Surfboards in Phillip Island. In the article he penned way back
in Edition 2, he refers to the width of a surfboard along with the
rider’s ability and the types of waves being ridden.
“Size does matter! Whether you’re a 120kg 50-year-old or a
50kg 15-year-old, you are going to need width and length in a
surfboard to help you learn to surf. The width gives buoyancy,
planing area, and stability.
“One of the major mistakes developing surfers make is to
decrease that width to extremes once they have learnt to
surf. The blame for this can be levelled at professional surfers
“The most important thing is to be
completely honest with your shaper
about your ability. They are the ones
who should know what is best for
someone of your size and experience
(if they don’t, time to get a new
shaper), it just takes you to swallow
the ego and admit where you’re at.
Your surfing will thank you for it!”
I’m sorry if we didn’t provide a nice, straightforward answer to
whether volume is important in surfboard design. The harsh
reality is that, while it is handy to know and a good starting
point, it is an aspect of design that can form part of your
decision-making process, but it is far from a guiding principle
in determining what surfboard is right for you. In our opinion, it
should never be isolated from other design factors.