SB-issue59_digital

gear
It is important to remember that volume is but a single variable that
can indicate how much your board will float relative to your size
(weight and height) and how easy it will be to paddle onto waves.
Obviously, the more waves you catch, the more practice you get,
and the better your surfing will become. However, it is also important
to remember that paddling isn’t surfing, it is merely the essential
exercise of getting onto a wave. Once on a wave, surfboard volume
can be both a blessing and a curse.
These two factors also play a significant role in determining the
right board for you. Generally speaking, the more experienced you
are, the less volume, or we should say ‘bouyancy’ you require.
Less bouyant boards are more sensitive to the rider’s movements.
These surfboards require extra effort to generate speed as they sink
deeper into the wave face, which in turn creates drag and increases
the chance of ‘bogging’ (basically stalling on the wave as a result of
the rail digging in).
The upside is that a more sensitive rail will increase the surfer’s
control over the surfboard. It’s the same principles that guide
the steering of a Formula One race car. Elite drivers want greater
steering sensitivity. The same sensitivity in the hands of mere
novices will see the slightest reaction have us careering off into the
side of the road.
The downside of low volume surfboards is that they’re hard to
paddle and get onto waves. So, if you’re not catching waves, you’re
not having fun and you’re not getting enough practice to make your
surfing better. And if the waves are weak, you will also start to sink
while riding the waves.
Higher volume boards, or more specifically, ones that have more
buoyancy, will be easier to paddle and get onto waves. They also
provide a stable platform for surfers who are developing, and are
great for more advanced surfers when the waves are small and
weak. This is why longboards and fish style boards dominate the
lineup in smaller conditions because they are generally boards with
a greater volume and buoyancy than a standard shortboard.
However, with all that buoyancy, the boards can be harder to turn
and control, as you can’t bury a rail because it has too much float.
When the surf gets larger, this further exacerbates the issue. It
will cause a very buoyant board to deliver the same sensation as
tackling a steep hill with a tiny Penny skateboard — you will be
going all over the place with absolutely no control.
People’s perspectives on relying on volume as a general
performance indicator for a surfboard vary. Advocates of computer
aided design, such as my friend Lach, will argue that volume is one
of the key ingredients in assessing how a surfboard will perform,
with some even believing it is the first measurement to look at when
choosing what surfboard size to buy.
Those who consider any reference to volume as nothing but a mere
marketing stunt to sell mass-produced surfboards, particularly
online, will argue it is one aspect amongst so many variables. The
reason being that trying to keep the deck of your surfboard level
with the water focuses merely on buoyancy while ignoring so many
aspects of surfing from stability to planing speed.
One of the most highly regarded surfboard shapers on the planet,
Bob McTavish, believes people have become too obsessed with
volume when so many other variables play a more critical role in
# 59 // smorgasboarder //
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