SB-issue59_digital

ou love
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATTY HANnON
The etymology of the word ‘pastime’ dates back to the late 15th century.
Its definition is to undertake some sort of amusement that is so positively
agreeable that time slips by unnoticed. Surfing for many is a ‘pastime’.
It certainly is for me. I couldn’t count how many hours have drifted by
while I have been immersed in the ocean enjoying the waves.
That is why, for me, surfing has always been, and will continue to be,
a ‘pastime’. The sheer thought of competing and all the stresses that
ensue with competition would spoil the sheer unbridled joy I experience
when surfing. Don’t get me wrong, there is absolutely nothing wrong
with the sport of surfing — it’s simply that riding waves has always
been about relaxing and unwinding for me. Surfing has always been my
‘downtime’ — my chance to escape from a hectic work schedule where
leisure time has always been limited.
When we started a family way back when, that downtime was
diminished even further. Whenever the opportunity arose to duck down
to the beach for a quick surf, the kids were often in tow. I quickly figured
out how to address the situation. I would paddle out with my two young
daughters on the deck of my longboard. As we glided down a few
sliders, one would often end up on my shoulders and the other out front
on the deck holding onto Dad. Those moments ‘passing time’ out in the
water are forever etched in my memory, and whilst still so crystal clear,
how I wish I had a photo of all three of us on a wave.
Through the years, all three of our kids learnt to surf out in the water
with me, initially as a trio or tandem and then eventually on their own.
Only one however, Phoebe, caught the surfing bug like her dad, initially.
Mikaela went on to find her passion in the world of arts and drumming,
and our youngest, Sam, found football. You see, ‘pastimes’ are
something you must find yourself, not something pushed onto you by
your parents.
So, it was Phoebe and I through the years who would venture out for a
quick surf here and there whenever the opportunity presented itself. She
became my surfing buddy many years after I had moved away from my
brother and regular surfing mates down on the Gold Coast.
Sam has now joined the fold after catching the bug some 18 months
back, and he has caught it big time. I am glad he’s found his love for
the waves. I am also so happy that both Sam and Phoebe have helped
rekindle my love for surfing, which often competes with running a
business. Their calls to “stop working so much and come have a surf”
have helped get me fit again and improve my surfing, which had fallen
by the wayside over the last few years.
The three of us now take to the waves regularly, and I cherish every
moment, even when the young buck constantly calls me out to go
harder. I must laugh because I did the same to my dad. Would I love
for all five of us to be out there together, Katie and Mikaela as well? Of
course, but three is better than one.
What’s my point about all of this? I don’t know, I tend to waffle. I guess
it is in part what surfing is to me and why I consider it my ‘pastime’. The
second is to underline the importance of sharing something you love
with someone you love in the hope they love it too. My goodness, how
eloquent was that? A mini monologue delivered in true, long-winded
Swandog style. Anyhow, I hope you get the two points I am making.
In this edition we share a number of enthralling stories, none more
so than Matty Hannon’s trek surfing along the entire west coast of
the Americas. This surf adventure of a lifetime is tastefully packaged
up as a documentary-style film that is equally stunning and intimate.
On his adventure, he finds love and someone to share his love of the
ocean with, but the film is so much more than that. It is most definitely
thought provoking and prompts you to reconsider your priorities in life.
It admittedly left me watery-eyed at its completion. It is quite simply a
must-see film.
We also chat with Agata Dobrzynska, a professional kiteboarder who
also loves to surf, snowboard, and snowkite… and compete! You see,
we’re all different, and that’s what makes life interesting. Agata is also
particularly passionate about sharing her love for kiteboarding as a
means of bringing like-minds together and empowering women to
pursue their aspirations.
Then there’s Jake Killen, who popped into our social media feed one
day and had us completely captivated by his shots surfing Norway.
Next thing we were scrolling through his Instagram and marvelling at his
other surf adventures around the globe. He’s a pretty interesting dude
who absolutely rips, shapes his own boards, and even built his own little
shack. We couldn’t help but share his story.
There’s more to read inside aside from these three stories, but I have
already rambled on too long. So there you go — sharing is caring, and
we have plenty to go around in this edition. Enjoy.
The Smorgasboarders
# 59 // smorgasboarder //
7