APJ Vol 57 2024

Leaders in Education
Summer
Volume 57
2024
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of
the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
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APJ 1

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IN THIS ISSUE
SUMMER VOLUME 57. 2024
46
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND
PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT
REGULATION, STANDARDS, EDUCATION
AND CONFERENCES
16-19
THRIVING
AESTHETIC
SUMMIT
46-49
AESTHETIC
BULLETIN
53
MASTERING PROGESS AND
SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS
THROUGH COHERENT
COMMUNICATION
70-72
DERMAL NEEDLING: HOW
TO ACHIEVE EXCEPTIONAL
BENEFITS AND AVOID
REACTIONS
35
80-83
AHPRA AND TGA FOCUS
ON COSMETIC MEDICINE
CRACKDOWNS – AN
INDUSTRY IN TRANSITION
88-90
THE COMMISSION OF
TATTOO INKS
96 -99
AROMATICS – WHAT THE
NOSE ENJOYS – THE ROLE
OF FRAGRANCE IN MOOD,
MEMORY AND EMOTIONS.
100 -103
EXPLORING THE
EVOLUTION OF THE
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY
32-34
DEB FARNWORTH-WOOD –
A MASTER OF CHALLENGE
AND CHANGE
35
THE IMPORTANCE OF
STORYTELLING TO
PROMOTE BUSINESS
GROWTH
40-43
TIPS FOR BETTER
BUSINESS
64-67
EGO VERSUS
VALUES-CENTRIC
MANAGEMENT STYLE
20
73
FACELESS REALS –
THE NEW SOCIAL
MEDIA TREND
76-78
TRUST:
THE FORGOTTEN
PART OF PATIENT
CONSULTATION
92-93
THE POWER OF
EFFECTIVE
INTERVIEW
QUESTIONS
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS
AND COSMETIC MEDICINE
8-9
CEO’S
REPORT
20-21
LIP FLIP:
IS IT THE NEW
LIP FILLER?
56—58
PRODUCTS
TRENDING
74-75
LIP FILLER MIGRATIONS –
TIPS ON HOW TO
AVOID THEM
APJ 4

36
Editor
Dr Giulia D’Anna
(07) 5593 0360
editor@apanetwork.com
www.apanetwork.com
Typesetting & Graphics
Tahlia Schwark
Advertising & Marketing
Tina Viney
Phone: (07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
Fax: (07) 5593 0367
Mobile: 0426 208 244
Aesthetics Practitioners
Advisory Network
PO Box 5448, Q Super
Centre QLD 4218 Australia
Publisher
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Design & Production
Artwork and Editorial
TEV Group Pty Ltd
PO 5448, Q Supercentre
Qld 4218 Australia
Phone: (07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
Mobile: 0426 208 224
Printed For
Aesthetics Practitioners
Advisory Network
ACN: 136 987 169
ABN: 25 136 987 169
Accounts Payable
Aesthetics Practitioners
Advisory Network
PO Box 5448, Q Super
Centre QLD 4218
National Advisory Council
Scientific Division:
Terry Everitt
Chris Testa.
Prof. Vania Leite Associate
Prof. Lorraine Mackenzie,
Rpbert McGowan
Business Innovation
Division:
Debbie Lane,
John Fergusson,
Michael Bishop, Julia
Malamed,
Andre Felix,
Gill Fish
ISSN: 1836-9812
Pint Post Approved
[100000257]
Circulation 6900
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS
AND TECHNOLOGIES
24-27
DECIPHERING THE
ROLE OF FATTY ACIDS
IN HUMAN SKIN HEALTH
36-39
ECHINACEA –
MORE THAN A
PRETTY DAISY
50-52
RESVERATROL UNVEILED –
SKINCARE HYPE OR HERO?
60-63
THE ANATOMY
OF BOTANICAL
COSMECEUTICALS
84-85
SCIENTIFIC
NEWS
94 – 95
HORSETAIL EXTACT:
A NOVEL HERB FOR
SKIN HEALTH
Front Cover
ILLUMIASKIN
Debbie Land - 0456 696 144
contact@illuminaskin.com
Illumiaskin.com
For further details
see page 10-13
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network
organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking.
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its
members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the
property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written
authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate
as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their
accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
APJ 5

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR
Dr Giulia D’Anna
As we step into the March and April
sector of the business calendar,
the landscape for skin-related
industries is undergoing a significant
transformation due to changes in
legislation. While these changes bring
forth challenges, the overall outlook
is undeniably positive as we adapt to
a more conscientious and consumerfocused
era.
One of the primary challenges lies
in the stringent regulations aimed at
ensuring the safety and transparency
of skincare products. Legislators
are rightfully prioritising the health
and well-being of consumers by
demanding stricter ingredient scrutiny,
comprehensive labelling, and thorough
testing procedures. This shift, though
demanding for businesses, ultimately
fosters a more responsible and ethical
marketplace. However, we will await
further insight from TGA in relation to
information that we can include in our
advertising going forward.
In trends for 2024, the emphasis on
sustainability is reshaping how skinrelated
businesses operate. From
sourcing ingredients to packaging,
companies are compelled to adopt
eco-friendly practices. While the
initial investments may strain budgets, the long-term benefits include reduced
environmental impact, increased consumer trust, and a positive brand image.
This will be a good benefit to us all in the long run.
The implementation of diversity and inclusion measures is another noteworthy
aspect of running our businesses in 2024. Recognising the diverse needs of
consumers, the industry is now compelled to offer a broader range of products
catering to various skin types and tones. This inclusivity not only meets the
demands of a diverse consumer base, but also promotes a more equitable and
representative industry. It will again be interesting to hear how the changes in
legislation around our contactable hours will impact employees and employers
and their businesses. The perceived change seems big, but I think in reality it
will just shift our focus to being more focussed during our work contact hours. I
would be interested to hear what you all think.
Amidst these challenges, businesses have a unique opportunity to innovate and
differentiate themselves. Companies that proactively embrace these legislative
changes by investing in research and development, sustainable practices, and
inclusivity initiatives are poised to thrive in this evolving market.
As we traverse this new frontier of skin-related legislation, resilience and
adaptability will be key. By embracing change, overcoming challenges, and
aligning with the values of conscientious consumers, businesses can not
only survive but flourish in the March and April sector and beyond. The era
of responsible skincare is upon us, and those who seize the opportunity will
undoubtedly shape the future of the industry.
Finally, I look forward to meeting with you soon at the APAN conference.
It is not too long now until the Gold Coast event dominates our continuing
education schedules.
See you all there!
editor@apanetwork.com
www.apanetwork.com
APJ 6

APJ Contributors
Neil Osborne
www.spendsuasion.com.au
Neil Osborne is a master trainer,
growth coach and entrepreneur. He
is the creator of the Spendsuasion®
method blending spending and
persuasion. Neil worked exclusively
in the salon, clinic and aesthetic
markets for more than three
decades, teaching businesses and
brands how to profitably grow and
be commercially clever.
Gay Wardle
gay@gaywardle.com.au
Gay Wardle is a qualified
dermal clinician and a
passionate trainer and
educatior in skin analysis,
consultation and advanced
skin treatments. Her articles
comprehensively cover
these subjects.
Terry Everitt
aestheticeducators@gmail.com
Professor Terry Everitt is highly
regarded for his extensive
knowledge in evidence-based
science. He is responsible for
the Scientific News segment
within APJ as well as his regular
well-researched articles on all
things aesthetics.
Trish Hammond
trish@thepinkroom.com.au
Trish Hammond is an awardwinning
blog and social media
expert and a leader in her field
within the aesthetics industry
and beyond. She regularly
presents educational articles
on Social Media.
Katherine McCann
k_mccann@me.com
Katherine McCann is a highly
experienced cosmetic tattoo
practitioner and trainer. She
regularly contributes to
thought-provoking cosmetic
tattoo articles in APJ.
Jacine Greenwood-
Drummond
jacine@roccoco.com.au
Jacine Greenwood-Drummond
holds qualifications in nursing,
cosmetic chemistry and is an
internationally recognised
educator on cosmetic
ingredients. Jacine contributes
articles on ingredient science.
Kirstie Fitzpatrick
kirstie.fitzpatrick@hotmail.com
Kirstie Fitzpatrick is a
journalist and a rising star
as a TV presenter based in
Canberra and works with all
media platforms. Kirstie has
also completed qualifications
as a dermal clinician and has
a real passion for supporting
business owners within the
aesthetics industry.
Deb Farnworth-Wood
deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au
Deb Farnworth-Wood is our
business expert responsible
for APJ’s Business Wisdom
column. Deb is a business
development experts with
amazing achievements as a
serial entrepreneur.
APJ 7

CEO’S REPORT
Heart
- TO -
Heart
Tina Viney
APAN CEO
Dear colleagues and friends
In 2024 I am changing my CEO’s report to one that is more
heartfelt and personable. As APAN represents members
across every state, it is not always possible to speak to all of
you face-to-face. However, when I write this column, I truly
want you to feel as If I am speaking to you prsonally, rather
than collectively. As such, this year I am adopting a new tone
that is more of a heart-to-heart approach.
First, I want to start with the recent disruptions that we have
experienced with the TGA’s changes to how we advertise
cosmetic injectable services to consumers. This has been a
topic that we have been extensively involved, as it is impacting,
not just injectable practitioners – nurses and doctors, but
also salons and clinics who provide these services through a
qualified person within their business.
Regulations are important, not only to those who are
performing the particular service, but also, by association. This
is because even if you don’t perform the procedure yourself, if
it is delivered within your premises, you have a legal and ethical
responsibility and a duty-of-care to ensure that regulatory
compliance requirements are met. While an update on this
topic will be presented in a separate report in this journal, I
would like to stress a few important issues.
There are many voices within our industry – social media
makes sure of that, each with their own take on subjects as
they impact on their specific business. I sometimes feel that
the voice of an association/standards body can be drowned in
the mix of opinions and the various perspectives, so I want to
provide you with a brief overview of what you should expect
from APAN.
A VOICE FOR THE INDUSTRY
The role of an industry body is two-fold:
First, it is important that we communicate, engage and identify
what is important to you as our member. What challenges do
you face that you can benefit from support, resources, and
representation with government on a regulatory level? Your
opinion matters and it is important that you communicate
these to us and that we understand them. There are many
ways that you can do this:
• A phone call: The most direct is to call and speak to us
directly about what is on your heart and what areas you
would like us to pursue answers on your behalf. Do not
apologise for calling. We are your professional body, so
you are always welcome to communicate what is
important to you at any time We expect you to do so.
• An email: You can also forward an email to us with your
opinions, needs and concerns on a topic, if that is your
preferred method of communication.
• Respond to industry polls: This is where we ask you as a
group to share your opinion or vote on an issue.
• Social media: You can also participate in a social media
discussion with others and share your views. While these
can be screened and viewed by us, your voice can be lost
in the mix of things.
For important issues the first two options are the best.
APJ 8
While finding what will define your brand of service and business is all part of purpose
and goal-setting, it is also important to identify the threats and risks that you wish
to guard against. The purpose of joining any association is to also communicate areas
that are threatening your business and to ensure that these issues are presented to
regulatory bodies for the purpose of achieving solutions that best serve you.

At times we can be the nurturers who listens, support and encourage you, while at
other times we need to be the irritant or the grit in the oyster that challenges you
to get over feeling a victim of your circumstances, and step up towards resilience
and recovery. It is my belief that if an association is only telling you what you want
to hear to feel good, then they may not be doing their job right. Encouragement
and Challenge are both essential for growth and progress.
Why should you formally share your opinion?
As a business owner, it is important that you review, determine,
and articulate the position that you hold with specific topics
that will impact your business - both good and bad. While
finding what will define your brand is all part of purpose and
goal-setting, it is also important to identify the threats and
risks that you wish to guard against.
One of the reasons for joining any association is to also
communicate areas that are threatening your business and
ensure that these issues are presented to regulatory bodies for
the purpose of achieving solutions that best serve you.
APAN is very diligent and proactive in this area of industry
service. We also challenge and hold accountable distributors
that are doing the wrong thing by our members and we have
achieved some incredible breakthroughs when members
have been mistreated. Due to our strong connections with
government bodies, such as Department of Industrial Relations
Commission and the Legislative Councils in various states, we
have been able to quickly resolve highly contentious issues
without the need for our members to engage in legal action in
resolving the matter.
Second, we also have a responsibility to provide what we
believe are the standards by which the industry must be
defined by and challenge you to rise up and be better.
Part of APAN’s responsibility is to clearly define and articular
industry best practice standards and guidelines for risk
management, especially when there is no regulation for new
procedures. If you are not sure of the safety perimeters of a
new procedure reach out to us and ask us to provide them to
you.
At times we can be the nurtures who listens, support and
encourage you, while at other times we need to be the irritant
or the grit in the oyster that challenges you to get over feeling a
victim of your circumstance and step up towards recovery and
resilience. It is my belief that if an association is only telling you
what you want to hear to feel good, then they may not be doing
their job right. Encouragement and challenge are both essential
for growth and progress.
THRIVING AESTHETIC SUMMIT 2024
Based on the above principles our new conference program
this year will not only feature a new name, it will provide new
elements that will both inspire and challenge.
Expect to experience a higher level of education, honest
and serious conversations on current challenges and how to
overcome them.
We have an incredible array of new speakers who will not only
provide you with real answers, but also ingest in you, positive
energy and inspire you.
Don’t forget that on day two you will have an incredible
full workshop program that will allow you to view and
experience new advanced techniques and strategies to help
you raise your treatment results to the next level. Taking
theory into the practical domain where the magic happens is
so exciting - it is what the workshops are all about.
We promise this will be a transformative experience, so please
consider it as an investment in your future. I look forward to
seeing you there.
As we enter a new month, may life be kind to you on both a
personal and professional level.
We care for you, and your success is important to us. Please
don’t let your membership laps, this is a critical time to ensure
you are getting the support you need.
Together we are stronger.
Tina Viney
Chief Executive Officer
APJ 9

COVER STORY
Illumiaskin PRO
Where Science Meets Radiant
Skin and Wellness
These challenging times resulted in the global consumer
demand for affordable at home personal care solutions. At this
time, they introduced their very first product, an affordable
and safe LED mask with a high-quality design. The response
was overwhelming, with their inaugural product selling out in
just 24 hours.
NEW ADVANCES INTO THE PROFESSIONAL MARKET
The ever-growing increase in evidence-based studies that
confirm the benefits of LED therapy for skin transformation
and overall wellbeing have made LED devices the most sortafter
technology for the astute salon or clinic. At specific
colours and wavelengths LED light therapy can support the
skin by promoting collagen production, improve lymph and
blood circulation, and enhance skin recovery from various
skin conditions such as blemishes, soothe skin irritations
and soften the appearance of lines and wrinkles. The surge
in popularity of this technology has also contributed to LED
masks being the most sort-after at home device for
consumer use.
Here we unveil the inspiring story behind Illumiaskin, the
innovators of the amazing (salon/clinic exclusive) Illumiaskin
PRO LED home-use mask and its point of difference.
At the heart of Illumiaskin lies a story of personal care,
wellness and mindfulness, and the desire to create incredible,
innovative premium quality consumer products that are
affordable and enhance the quality of life. Conceptualised, and
manufactured by skin health and wellness enthusiasts Stacey
and Bobby Rizoski, Illumiaskin is a dream-come-true product
line that is meticulously designed with attention to detail to a
standard that can lead the market.
Their journey began amidst the peak of the pandemic when
access to salons and clinic services were heavily restricted.
Post the pandemic, while salons and clinics are once again
operating, nevertheless, the consumer trend for at-home
devices continued to surge. This fueled their desire for
IllumiaSkln to now produce a ‘salon/clinic only’ LED mask
developed to a higher standard to other competitor’s at-home
devices. With meticulous attention to technical details, this
device is developed to perfectly align seamlessly with the
clients’ in-clinic treatment. Additionally, it provides retail
revenue, while allowing practitioners to guide their clients
through a tailored at home program for optimum
treatment results.
Welcome to Illumiaskin PRO, but first, let’s look at the brains,
expertise and passion of the designers and manufacturers of
the product brand:
THE FOUNDERS: STACEY AND BOBBY RIZOSKI
The dynamic duo behind the company, Stacey and Bobby
Rizoski are more than just business and product development
gurus, they are visionaries dedicated to delivering mesmerising
moments of positive change for everyone. With a shared
passion for family, growth, and wellness, they’ve united
decades of experience in business and pharmaceutical
expertise to create the innovative product brand - Illumiaskin.
Stacey’s lifelong passion for personal care and wellness
constantly drives her to attend global conferences to remain
in tune with the latest developments in innovative skin
technologies and wellness which she has done for over 15
years. Her devotion to LED therapy stems from the remarkable
benefits she has personally experienced from it, for both her
skin and her well-being.
Bobby’s impressive 20-year career in pharmaceuticals, coupled
with his extensive healthcare and compliance experience laid
APJ 10

By featuring red
plus near-infrared,
blue, and purple
LED treatments, the
Illumiaskin PRO offers
three distinct therapies
in one convenient
package.
the foundation for Illumiaskin’s journey. Recognising the need
for high-quality TGA registered and compliant products, he
ensures each of their LED face masks is ARTG-listed.
Alongside Illumiaskin, Bobby and Stacey have also created
several other companies under their main organisation Ergo
Health Group, which is formed to deliver unrivaled health
solutions in partnership with global manufacturers
and suppliers.
DEMOCRATISING AT-HOME SKIN AND
WELLNESS SOLUTIONS
In an era where skin and wellness meet science and the need
for sustainability, Illumiaskin emerges as a transformative
brand. Proudly Australian-owned and nurtured by a dedicated
team of #LEDLovers, and passionate pharmaceutical and
health experts, Illumiaskin harnesses the power of science to
redefine at-home skincare solutions.
The mission at Illumiaskin is clear - to lead the global
democratisation of at-home LED technology through the
power of premium quality. They envision a world where
everyone can access the transformative benefits of sciencebacked
products regardless of budget. By offering high-quality
products at conscious prices, Illumiaskin aims to empower
all individuals to embark on their journey of transformation,
inside and out.
THE VISION: COLLECTIVE SUSTAINABILITY
AND TRANSFORMATION
Illumiaskin’s vision goes far beyond the realm of skincare
products; It’s about delivering mesmerising moments of
awareness, self-accomplishment, and optimum skin health
and wellness to their consumers worldwide. By harnessing the
power of science to fuel transformative rituals for both people
and the planet, Illumiaskin ensures their vision for beauty
is also one for collective well-being. As proud partners of
i=change, each Illumiaskin purchase accelerates the impact of
development focused on women’s and girls’ empowerment and
supporting the effects of climate change. With every sale, they
are also contributing to making the world a better place.
Illumiaskin is also proud to say that #zerowaste is not just
a hashtag – it’s a lifelong commitment to the environment.
By using fully recyclable packaging they are dedicated to
minimising waste and carbon footprint. With Illumiaskin one
can trust they won’t include any unnecessary items with their
devices, preserving and respecting Mother Earth.
THE LATEST INNOVATION:
INTRODUCING THE Illumiaskin PRO
Illumiaskin’s latest development, IlumiaSkin PRO stands at
the forefront of product innovations, is TGA listed and uses
cutting-edge technology tailored to a standard that will best
suit professional salons and clinics and their clientele. This
LED Mask harnesses the very latest innovation of LED light
with unparalleled efficacy and safety. By featuring red plus
near-infrared, blue, and purple LED treatments, the Illumiaskin
PRO offers three distinct therapies in one convenient package.
These treatments safely penetrate the dermis, stimulating
collagen production, improving circulation, and targeting acnecausing
bacteria.
Illumiaskin PRO also serves as the perfect complement
to professional in-clinic procedures. Whether it be microneedling,
microdermabrasion, chemical peels, laser/IPL
treatments, or injectables, incorporating Illumiaskin PRO
rituals into your clients’ at-home skincare routine will not
only enhance the results of in-salon treatments but also
promote rapid recovery.
Central to the efficacy of Illumiaskin PRO is its patented
“pillow” technology. This ground-breaking innovation ensures a
more uniform light dosage optimising LED treatment outcomes
by reaching deeper into the dermis. Additionally, unlike
hard masks, the flexible design offers a more comfortable
and relaxing experience. As a result, users can experience
transformative results without compromising safety or
efficacy.
The Illumiaskin PRO stands as a skincare game changer,
with an impressive 270 LED lights to maximise face coverage.
This device redefines the standard for at-home facial
LED treatments.
For professional salons, incorporating the Illumiaskin PRO
APJ 11

a range of skin concerns, while other brands usually offer one
dedicated treatment per product.
Unlike traditional hard masks, the Illumiaskin PRO uses
patented Pillow Technology with a flexible design that
enhances comfort and a relaxed, soothing experience. Its 270
LED lights offer superior facial coverage compared to other
LED masks on the market. Our high-tech digital controller
allows you to cycle through the 3 pre-programmed rituals
before selecting your desired one, with a 5-second count-down
for each ritual.
We are committed to charity and sustainability, partnering
with i=change. Each purchase supports female empowerment,
and environmental responsibility by using 100% recyclable
packaging with zero waste as we are firmly committed to a
greener future.
into their service offerings allows for a competitive edge
in the ever-evolving skincare industry. By providing clients
with access to this premium device, salons can elevate
their repertoire and foster long-term client satisfaction.
The Illumiaskin PRO represents a superior shift in skincare
innovation, while securing additional revenue for the business.
AN INTERVIEW WITH THE FOUNDERS
In this exclusive Q&A, founders Bobby and Stacey take us
behind the scenes of the Illumiaskin PRO’s development,
inspiration, and meticulous top quality craftmanship, features
and capabilities that have propelled this product to the
forefront of the professional aesthetics industry.
APJ 1: As LED light has so much science behind its benefit for
the skin, what was your company’s focus when developing a
salon and clinic model for home use?
Our primary focus was to create a high-quality, TGA listed
home-care LED therapy mask that is safe and effective,
seamlessly transitioning to deliver high-quality LED mask
therapy in the comfort of the client’s home. The Illumiaskin
PRO is excellent following treatments such as micro-needling,
microdermabrasion, chemical peels, laser/IPL, and injectables,
helping to promote healing.
APJ 2: What measures did you take to ensure the end
product was high-quality?
The entire process from conceptualisation to completion
took two years. All our products must adhere to the highest
standards of global design, technology, and safety. Our
customers can rest assured that they are investing in
superior products.
APJ 3: Why should a salon or clinic invest in the
Illumiaskin PRO ?
Our product not only offers an exceptional retail product, it
also helps increase business revenue with ease, while providing
clients with an excellent well-designed and comfortable athome
mask that will continue to boost their in-clinic treatment
results.
APJ 4: What is the competitive advantage of the
Illumiaskin PRO?
Our product is a high-quality, premium LED Mask sold at
a favourable price point, making it superior to competitive
products. It offers three rituals within one device to address
APJ 5: What marketing support do you provide for your
salons and clinics?
• Exposure via Illumiaskin PRO official website:
Our stockists will be listed as affiliated salons and clinics
on our website.
• Support with Leads:
Leads forwarded to our stockists via all social channels.
• Education:
We provide educational resources for both clinics
and customers.
• Sales techniques:
Training in effective sales techniques and upselling skills.
• Marketing material:
We provide brochures, banners, digital socials assets and
a professional community hub.
• Upcoming product launches:
We continually innovate and expand our product
offerings to enhance the selling power for clinics/salons.
• Collaborations:
We partner with influencers and beauty bloggers who
have an impressive following in our target market
creating consumer awareness.
• PR media exposure:
We actively seek and secure media opportunities for
Illumiaskin PRO, resulting in top-tier editorial exposure
to support our clinics.
APJ 6: How do you recommend this product to be used to
boost in-clinic procedure?
The Illumiaskin PRO’s RENEW+ ritual uses red light + nearinfrared
therapy used as a highly effective booster after nonsurgical
cosmetic procedures. For acne-prone skin, the CLEAR
ritual uses blue light to help stabalise oil glands and eliminate
acne-causing bacteria, while the HEAL ritual utilises purple
light to assist healing of wounds.
APJ 7: What about mindfulness meditation practice
alongside Illumiaskin PRO?
We recommend integrating mindful meditation techniques
into your Illumiaskin PRO ritual. These simple practices can
boost relaxation, enrich sleep quality, and cultivate a sense of
calm and balance. A 10-minute meditation is provided within
our Ritual Guide. APJ
APJ 12

NEW
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Therapy at-home
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support initiatives for positive health, equity, and a sustainable future.
Ready to take your supplementary skin care services to the next level?
Email Debbie Lane at connect@illumiaskin.com or call 0456 696 144.
References: 1. Healthline. LED light therapy for skin: what to know. Available at: healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/led-light-therapy (accessed July 2023). 2. American Academy of Dermatology
Association. Lasers and lights. How well do they treat acne? Available at: aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/lasers-lights (accessed July 2023). 3. Pei S et al. Indian Dermatol Online J 2015;6(3):145–57.
4. Goldberg DJ and Russell BA. J Cosmetic Laser Ther 2006;8:71–5. 5. Lee SY et al. Lasers Surg Med 2007;39(2):180–8. 6. Gold MH et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther 2011;13:308–14. 7. Van Tran V et al. Opt Laser Technol
2021;135:106698. 8. Jagdeo J et al. Lasers Surg Med 2018;50:613–28. 9. Healthline. What is red light therapy, and how does it work? Available at: healthline.com/health/red-light-therapy (accessed July 2023).

APA
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Experience the new wave of hydrationpowered
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This is an incredible overnight mask
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Cellular Hydration Barrier Repair Serum
Meet Cellular Hydration Serum, two years in the making. A concentrated serum with
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Cellular Hydration Barrier Repair Cream
Complete your routine with Cellular Hydration Barrier Repair Cream – a daily nourishing
cream with fatty acids from bilberry omegas that immediately repairs dry, flaky and
dehydrated skin.
NEWS UPDATE: MURAD UNVEILS SIGNIFICANT EXPANSION FOLLOWING
REMARKABLE GROWTH IN 2023
Murad, the renowned leader in skincare innovation, is proud to announce a substantial
expansion initiative in Australia, reflective of our extraordinary growth trajectory. With
a strategic focus on bolstering our team with seasoned Sales and Education Consultants,
amplifying digital capabilities, and enriching customer experience through additional
administrative support, Murad continues to set industry standards.
The surge in demand in our Professional Skincare sales channel has catalysed this
expansion, further elevating our consumer business. Leveraging the expertise inherent
to professional skincare, Murad remains steadfast in delivering exceptional results,
improved client confidence, and unmatched customer satisfaction.
For products and systems the lead the
aesthetics industry contact
Murad: info_au@murad.com
1800 687 237
APJ 14

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APJ 15
APAN_MURAD_FEB_2024.indd 1
16/02/2024 3:01:34 PM

AESTHETIC
SUMMIT
Business & Clinical Mastery
19 TH – 20 TH MAY
Mantra on View, Surfers Paradise, GOLD COAST
Conference| Workshops | Exhibitions
True to our theme - Business and Clinical Mastery, this year’s
program will be stepped up to bring you the new perspectives
that are reshaping and redefining the future of the aesthetics
industry and raising the standards to a new level. Featuring
two distinct categories:
SUNDAY 19th MAY: A full day of lectures and panel
discussions dedicated to education and regulatory changes and
how they will impact your business. The plenary session will
provide you with the very latest in scientific advances in both
ingredients and technologies, and the incredible possibilities
of how these advances will provide transformative treatment
results.
You will be presented with the latest advances in regulatory
changes and how they will impact the future of the profession.
We will feature serious conversations that present an honest
perspective of how business will be different from 2024 and
beyond.
We encourage you to come prepared to engage in a
participatory way and determine important information that
you will need to extract to benefit your future direction.
MONDAY 20th MAY: Day two will be totally dedicated to
THREE WORKSHOP STREAMS presenting you with the very
latest in technologies and techniques that will position you as a
leader in your field in the fiercely competitive aesthetic market.
STREAM 1 and 2: Will be dedicated to TECHNOLOGIES,
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS, TECHNIQUES, RISK
MANAGEMENT AND BUSINESS EDUCATION.
STREAM 3: This stream will be dedicated exclusively to
four workshops on the very latest produces and advanced
techniques in cosmetic injectables.
Predicted to reach 4 billion dollars, this industry, including
the cosmetic injectable sector, is reaching meteoric heights
through the ever-growing consumer appetite for more, in
appearance enhancement and stress management. This event
will empower you with in-depth knowledge, as well as skills
development delivered through leading experts and staged
through an independent industry standards body.
LECTURE PROGRAM SUNDAY 19TH MAY
8.00 – 8.15am: Opeing address
Government representative to be confirmed
8.15 – 8.30am: Welcome Industy Update
Tina Viney – APAN CEO
8.30 – 8.40am: Introduction to the Program
Professor Terry Everitt – MC
8.45 – 9.15am: Rethinking the ageing skin and the role of
topical antioxidants
Dr Belal Chami – PhD
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• The role of accumulated DNA damage in ageing
• Identify naturally occurring compounds that promote DNA repair.
• The new, evidence-based approach to topical antioxidants
for DNA repair.
9.20 – 9.40am:
Update on Qld Laser Licensing Regulations
(panel discussion)
Simon Critchley – Director, Radiation Health Unit,
Queensland Health
Paula Veenvers – Manager of Compliance and Approved
Operations, Radiation Health Unit, Queensland Health.
Interviewer: Nicole Kratzmann – National Sales Manager,
Aesthetic Bureau, owner of AKISS education.
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• Current changes to licensing requirements.
• Potential exemption options through qualifications.
• Nominal hours required for various treatments.
• What to look for in a qualification?
SPONSORS
PLATINUM
APJ 16

• Will IPL devices be regulated?
9.45 – 10.15am:The Changing Landscape of Social Media
n 2024
Trish Hammond – Truce Media
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• Identifying the current changes and trends in the various social
media platforms.
• What these changes mean to the aesthetic business
moving forward.
• Effective guidelines in winning in the ‘content production maze’.
• Gain clarity on what works and what no longer works.
10.15 – 10.50am:
Rising Above Business Volatility in 2024
Deb-Farnworth Wood – Issada
Jacine Greenwood – Roccoco Botanicals
Trish Hammond – Truce Media
Karen Meiring de Gonzalez – Skin Correctives
Danielle Renee – CEO, Bobby Charles
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
Over the last five years the business world has been shaken to its core.
In just two years we have experienced 14 interest rate rises, landlords
are mercilessly increasing their rental rates, wages are on the rise,
and let’s not forget the impact of the global pandemic. These events
have created both financial instability as well as contributed to mental
and psychological challenges. Yet out of the ashes some have risen
stronger and more resilient. These dynamic women will share their
personal experiences, their professional and business wisdom on how
they have been impacted and how they are continuing to experience
continued business growth, if only from a redefined perspective of
business success.
10.50am – 11.20am:
MORNING TEA AND NETWORKING BREAK
11.20 – 11.55am:
Advances in Laser and Energy-based Devices in
Dermatology
Dr Shobhan Manoharan – Dermatologist
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• Origin and treatment solutions for the various pigment-related skin
disorders.
• Pathophysiology of various scars – atrophic, keloid, contracture
hypertrophic, adhesions and stretch marks.
• An update on the latest dermatology techniques for treating scars
using laser and light-based technologies.
11.55 – 12.25pm:
Smart Financial Money Management for a better future
Stephen Pollard – Senior Financial Planner
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• Common mistakes with financial planning and how to avoid them.
• Current changes to the marketand new opportunities for
financial growth.
• Simple steps to minimise financial risk and optimise your
financial future.
• 10 tips for generational wealth.
12.30 – 1.00pm:
Pitching Your Business to the Media
Kirstie Fitzpatrick – Journalist and TV Presenter
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• An overview of today’s media landscape.
• What constitutes a pitch to the media.
• Why storytelling can make a difference.
1.00 – 2.00pm:
LUNCH AND NETWORKING BREAK
2.00 – 2.30pm:
Elevating Aesthetic Technologies: The unvarnished
truth about energy-based devices
Trevor Neale – CEO, Aesthetic Bureau
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• Understand the patterns of technology adoption in the aesthetic
industry.
• Learn to critically assess manufacturer claims and the real-world
effectiveness of aesthetic technologies to make more informed
decisions for your practice.
• The latest in energy-based technologies and their efficacy and
application in addressing common skin issues.
• Determine the correct sequence when combining technologies for
best results.
2.30 – 3.00 pm:
The Rise in Skin and Body Adverse Reactions –
Key contributing Factors and How to Avoid them
Tina Viney – CEO APAN
Gay Wardle – Dermal Clinician and educator
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• Common errors when treating darker skin types.
• Underling considerations that lead to adverse reactions.
• Why consultation forms and assessment tools need to be
regularly updated.
• A review into on-going professional development (Gay Wardle).
3.05pm – 3.35pm:
How to build a Thriving Business that Works for You
Danielle Renee – CEO Bobbie Charles, business consultant
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• How to stay ahead of the game (yes, it’s a sport!)
• How to manage client expectations
• How to provide a seamless client journey
• How to increase client retention and maximise profits
• Successful time-management delegation techniques.
3.35 – 4.05pm:
AHPRA and TGA LAWS Update
April Jones - Cosmetic nurse, educator, project manager.
SPONSORS
GOLD
EXHIBITORS
APJ 17

KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• What is happening ‘behind the scenes’ that contributes to the
regulatory changes.
• AHPRA and TGA are they at odds?
• The status of these changes and what they mean to you and
your practice.
• Is it all bad news? An analytic review of how the industry can be
protected moving forward.
4.05 – 4.35pm:
Revolutionising Scar Management: Unleashing the
Power of Micropigmentation
Katherine McCann – Medical Micropigmentation specialist
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• The psychological impact of scars and the crucial role of scar
camouflage in restoring self-confidence.
• Colour matching pigment selection demystified.
• View the artistic skills that can deliver incredible natural result.
• The benefits of a multidisciplinary approach for optimal
scar revision.
4.35 – 5.05pm:
Skin Repair Strategies for Restoring Traumatised Skin -
The new Frontier in Aesthetic Therapies
Dr Shobhan Manoharan – Dermatologist
Gay Wardle – Dermal clinician
Katherine McCann – Medical cosmetic tattooist
Jacine Greenwood – Biotechnology skincare formulator
Dr Built – Medical Director at InstantCosmetics
Moderator: Kirstie Fitzpatrick – Journalist and Television Presenter
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
The members of this expert panel will share their individual
perspective and knowledge based on their technical and clinical
expertise. Learn how advanced strategies are achieving incredible
results through techniques from laser to skincare formulations,
skin needling to cosmetic tattooing and even injectables to create
incredible skin repair that is akin to a miracle. This fusion of knowledge
will inspire you on new possibilities for your treatment offerings.
5.10 – 5.35pm:
The Latest Trends in No-Surgical Techniques
Dr Built – Medical Director, InstantCosmetics
KEY LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
• The evolution of the non-surgical facelift providing
new opportunities.
• New products and techniques entering the market.
• The importance of on-going professional development in
expanding treatment options, techniques, as well as appropriate
risk management.
5.30pm – 7.00pm: COCKTAIL EVENT
Food, Entertainment and Networking. Join us for an exciting and
more relaxed change-of-pace and end the day on a high note.
Monday 20th MAY: WORKSHOP
PROGRAM
To view the full Workshop Program please visit
www.apanconf.com. This is an incomplete program at the time of
publishing. Please visit the website for full details of speakers as well
as the workshops including the Injectable Workshops and to register
www.apanconf.com
For further information contact APAN: 07 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com
APJ 18

AESTHETIC
SUMMIT
Business & Clinical Mastery
19 TH – 20 TH MAY
Mantra on View, Surfers Paradise, GOLD COAST
APAN is stepping up its annual conference event to a new
level through the introduction of the first AESTHETIC
SUMMIT for the benefit of the Australian business and
professional community.
The new format promises an incredible educational and
networking experience providing a comprehensive program
with a stronger focus on:
• New market drivers that are changing the
aesthetics business model.
• Important changes in social media marketing – learn
the best client acquisition strategies that work.
• Current skin needs and the dermatological
treatment perspective.
• Updates on ingredient formulations.
• Key areas that business owners and their staff
need to perfect.
• New technologies.
• Learn how to manage the impact of threats and
identify exciting new business growth opportunities.
Designed to introduce a new level of Excellence in Business and Clinical Mastery
AN EVENT YOU CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS!
Visit www.apanconf.com for further information and to register.
APJ 19

COSMETIC MEDICINE
LIP
FLIP:
IS IT THE NEW
LIP FILLER?
Dr Giulia D’Anna
Selective parts of the Orbicularis Oris muscle are selectively
treated so that curling in of the lip is moderated. Since the
lip cannot curl in, the patient will notice that the lip sits
nicely and more overtly. This created a faux lip filler effect,
since more of the vermillion is noticeable.
In the ever-evolving landscape of beauty preferences, thin or
more substantial - both sets of lips are undeniably beautiful,
catering to personal aesthetic goals and preferences. While
lip fillers remain a popular choice for enhancing lips, not
everyone seeks a change in shape or size. That’s where
understanding and offering various injection techniques
becomes crucial.
This article delves into the mechanics of a lip flip, explaining
how it works, identifying suitable candidates, detailing
expected results, and more.
UNRAVELING THE LIP FLIP SCIENCE
To comprehend the concept, let’s address the fundamental
question: What is a lip flip? Unlike traditional fillers, a lip flip
is a non-surgical procedure utilising Botulinum Toxin to relax
muscles above the lips. This induces a subtle upward turn of
the lips, creating the illusion of fullness and preventing inward
turning during speech or smiles. Additionally, it aids in reducing
wrinkles on the upper lips.
Selective parts of the Orbicularis Oris muscle are selectively
treated, so that curling in of the lip is moderated. Since the lip
cannot curl in, the patient will notice that the lip sits nicely and
more overtly. This creates a faux lip filler effect, since more of
the vermillion is noticeable.
IDEAL CANDIDATE FOR A LIP FLIP
Recommended for individuals with existing lip volume seeking
a subtle enhancement, the lip flip does not add significant
volume but can enhance facial harmony, providing a more
youthful appearance. It may also help improve a gummy
smile. However, those whose professions involve frequent lip
movement, such as speakers, musicians, or singers, may not
be ideal candidates due to potential limitations in lip pursing.
Patients that have a denture or orthodontic appliance that
requires the lip to help hold it in position, are not suitable
candidates. An example would be a patient that is undergoing
APJ 20

Visible effects emerge within three to four days, with the full
outcome materialising in about 14 days or two weeks. For
those planning ahead for events or travel, a two-week buffer
post-procedure is recommended to allow any lingering effects
to subside fully.
It is important to note that whilst a lip flip is easy to perform
and low risk, it will not replace lip filler. Lip filler will physically
increase the volume of the lip and also give the practitioner
some control over the shape of the lips. Additionally, lip filler
can correct asymmetry of lip shape and volume, which cannot
be achieved with the use of botulinum toxin.
THE LIFESPAN OF A LIP FLIP
On average, a lip flip lasts around 3-4 months, with variations
based on individual metabolism. As mentioned already,
although higher doses achieve a longer lasting effect, we
do not want a negative experience for our patients. I would
recommend starting at lower doses before increasing the dose
to a higher-than-average amount.
Athletes, and those with high metabolic rates, may experience
a shorter duration. The secret to a natural pout lies in seeking
a skilled practitioner with proper training, ensuring beautiful
results without compromising functionality.
a dental implant in the anterior segment of the mouth. A
temporary plate will be cumbersome if the orbicularis oris
muscle is weaker.
WHERE BOTULINUM TOXIN MEETS THE LIP
During a lip flip procedure, the practitioner injects Botulinum
toxin above the upper lip, relaxing the orbicularis oris muscle
surrounding the mouth. Additional targeting of lip elevator
muscles on the sides of the nose may occur to correct
hyperactivity in the upper lip. Both procedures - separately or
together in the ideal candidate, can create an improvement in
the soft tissues of the perioral region without being invasive or
permanent.
CALCULATING BOTULINUM TOXIN UNITS FOR THE LIPS
Typically, practitioners inject four to six units of Botulinum
toxin for a lip flip, adjusting up to eight units for those with
excessive gingival display. Personalised dosages depend on
individual characteristics, ensuring a natural look.
A skilled practitioner assesses each patient’s needs for optimal
results. Remember that the higher the dose, the longer it lasts.
But the downside is that there can be functional deficits that
are induced. As mentioned already, it will be difficult to pucker,
sip through a straw or keep a denture in, if the patient wears
one. So, it is crucial that you discuss these points with your
patient before proceeding.
NAVIGATING LIP FLIP SIDE EFFECTS
Patients undergoing a lip flip may experience normal side
effects such as swelling and bruising, usually resolving within
a few days. These side-effects can occur for any injectable
procedure, including dental anaesthesia, so informed consent
is essential as usual. The initial sensation of “strangeness” in
the lips is temporary, as the relaxed muscle adjusts over time.
Higher doses mean a longer lasting result, but also a more
profound paralysis of the orbicularis oris muscle. It is important
that you educate your patient in expected longevity of results.
IN SUMMARY
The artistry of a lip flip requires a meticulous approach,
where a proficient practitioner not only administers
Botulinum toxin accurately but also considers each patient’s
unique characteristics for an aesthetically pleasing and
functional outcome. APJ
If you would like to learn the technique of a lip flip or
lip filler, please contact us at 03 9859 78 59 or see
www.dermaldistinction.com
REVELING IN RESULTS
APJ 21

STAR PERFORMER
A FLAWLESS
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MATTE FINISH
From ISSADA Cosmeceuticals
Perfect for post-treatment application,
acne sufferers and oily skins, our
cult favourite mineral-baked powder
foundations set the standard in
performance foundation. With effective
ingredients holding anti-ageing and
supporting skin-health, these selfadapting
foundations should be a
clinic staple.
Our mineral foundations are noncomedogenic,
non-irritating and free
from palm oil, mineral oil, and talc, and
melts into the skin for a soft-touch
matte finish.
PARABEN FREE /
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ISSADA Cosmeceuticals is an Australian-owned boutique mineral makeup and clinical
range that specialises in advanced results-driven cosmeceutical skincare and makeup.
Our philosophy is to focus on total skin health and a flawless finish, whilst bridging
the gap between skincare and makeup. Issada is based on the Gold Coast in our own
manufacturing facility, with training centre allowing us to service all states. APJ
For more information on ISSADA download our 39 reasons to become a
stockist from our QR Code.
Phone: 07 3904 2288 | admin@issada.com | https://issada.com
Made in Europe, each pan begins as three
separate creamy colours, infused with
botanicals, vitamins and actives swirled
together and poured into terracotta pans
and slow cooked for 24 hours. Fresh out
of the oven these baked treats emerge as
luscious dome-shaped powders which we
house in sleek mirrored compacts.
Due to their unique self-adapting colour
formula, our five core shades will meet
the needs of your clients and can be worn
alone, or paired with one of our liquid
foundations. They offer buildable coverage
with a matte finish and provide the perfect
canvas for your colour cosmetics, while
they are non-dragging or clogging.
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These foundations contain a unique blend
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APJ 22
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APJ 23
WWW.ISSADA.COM

SKIN SCIENCE
DECIPHERING
THE ROLE OF
FATTY
ACIDS
In human skin health
Prof. Terry Everitt
In the skin, fatty acid metabolites also act
as bioactive molecules to control epidermal
and immune cell signalling. Disorders of
their metabolism underlie many pathological
conditions, including dermatological and
immunological diseases.
The human skin, our largest organ, is a formidable barrier
between our bodies and the external environment. Although
we may be prone to regard the integument as a barrier
against a hostile environment, it should be remembered that
possibly the most important task for human skin is to create a
watertight enclosure of the body to prevent water loss.
Its integrity and functionality are governed by myriad factors,
one of which is the composition and metabolism of multiple
fatty acids. Fatty acids, crucial components of skin lipids, play
multifaceted roles in maintaining skin health and function.
In this article, Professor Terry Everitt takes you into the
intricate relationship between fatty acids and human skin,
exploring their distribution, metabolism, and functions within
the epidermis and dermis without getting too lost in the
intricate biochemistry.
FATTY ACID COMPOSITION IN THE EPIDERMS
AND DERMIS
The epidermis is primarily composed of keratinocytes
embedded within a lipid-rich matrix. Fatty acids are vital
APJ 24

constituents of these lipids, contributing to the epidermal
barrier’s structural integrity and function. In the epidermis,
fatty acids are predominantly present in the form of ceramides,
cholesterol esters, free fatty acids, polyunsaturated fatty acids
(PUFs), Omega-6 (18: 2n-6) (Linoleic acid) and omega-3 (18:
3n-3) (Linolenic acid).
CHANGES TO CERAMIDES GROUPS
Ceramides, comprising sphingosine and a fatty acid moiety,
constitute approximately 40-50% of the lipid content in the
epidermis. This grouping in recent times, has rapidly expanded
from nine ceramide classes in 2008 to 16 in 2010, and now 21
subclasses of ceramides are known.
Eight ceramide subclasses were located in the dermis, and 11
were in the full-thickness epidermis in varying amounts (Knox
& O’Boyle, 2021) with other ceramides not in the skin. These
molecules play a crucial role in maintaining the skin’s barrier
function by regulating trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and
preventing the penetration of harmful pathogens and irritants,
as major lipid components (along with cholesterol, free fatty
acid, and other minor components) of the intercellular
spaces of stratum corneum that forms the epidermal
permeability barrier.
Cholesterol, its esters and Cholesterol sulphate are
synthesised from cholesterol and fatty acids in the skin and
are lipophilic steroids with a rigid, four-ring structure. They
comprise approximately 27 % of the stratum corneum’s (SC)
lipid content and contributes to the fluidity and stability of the
lipid bilayers in the stratum corneum, further enhancing the
skin barrier’s integrity.
THE ROLE OF PHOSPHOLIPIDS
Phospholipids are not present in the Stratum Corneum, yet
throughout the viable epidermis and dermis. Phospholipids
are amphiphilic molecules with polar head groups derived
from phosphoric acid and long hydrocarbon chains that impart
hydrophobicity to the molecule. They are the main subclass
of lipids in viable keratinocytes. Phospholipids are further
subclassified into two main groups: phosphoglycerates derived
from glycerol or sphingolipids, which have a dihydroxy amine
(sphingosine) backbone.
Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) are structural
components of membrane phospholipids, influence cellular
function via effects on membrane properties, and act as a
precursor pool for lipid mediators.
THE ROLD OF OMEGA-3 AND OMEGA-3 POLYSATURATED
FATTY ACIDS
Omega-6 (n-6) and omega-3 (n-3) polyunsaturated fatty
acids (PUFAs) play a critical role in normal skin function and
appearance. Metabolism of the essential fatty acids (EFAs),
linoleic acid (LA; 18:2n-6) and α-linolenic acid (ALA; 18:2n-3)
is limited in the skin; long-chain derivatives of LA and ALA
are therefore considered conditionally essential nutrients for
skin; both omega-6 and omega-3 PUFAs give rise to potent
signalling molecules, called eicosanoids, which influence the
inflammatory response in skin.
From Omega 6 PUFA, the body synthesises longer chain
derivatives such as Linoleic acid (LA), γ-Linolenic acid (GLA)
and Dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (DGLA ), with Omega 3 PUFA
providing Arachidonic acid (AA), α-Linolenic acid (ALA),
Eicosatetraenoic acid (ETA), Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and
Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA); along with various Eicosanoids
and Prostaglandins.
As noted in the image, each of the above macro elements
transforms into multiple individual lipid compositions.
Image: Average percentages of A. fatty acids in the full-thickness
human epidermis (Knox & O’Boyle, 2021, p. 5)
EXTRACELLULAR MATRIX OF THE DERMIS
In contrast, the dermis contains various extracellular matrix
components, including collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans.
APJ 25

While the dermis is not as lipid rich as the epidermis, it does
contain lipids crucial for maintaining skin hydration and
flexibility. The role of EFAs in the dermis appears to be related
to their production of signalling molecules that mediate the
inflammatory response.
Fatty acids in the dermis primarily exist within sebaceous
glands and adipocytes, contributing to sebum production and
adipose tissue function. However, there is a significant variance
between the individual constituents of the lipid structures
between the epidermis’s lipids and those of the sebaceous
glands.
LIPID METABOLISM IN THE SKIN
The metabolism of fatty acids in the skin is a tightly regulated
process involving synthesis, uptake, and degradation pathways.
Epidermal keratinocytes can synthesise fatty acids de novo
through fatty acid synthase (FAS) and elongase enzymes. These
newly synthesised fatty acids can then undergo esterification
to form ceramides or be released into the extracellular space as
free fatty acids.
Fatty acid uptake in the skin occurs via various mechanisms,
including passive diffusion across cell membranes and
receptor-mediated endocytosis. Once inside the cells, fatty
acids can undergo β-oxidation for energy production or
serve as precursors for synthesising complex lipids, such as
triglycerides and phospholipids.
It is important to note that unsaturated fatty acids are not
synthesised in the human body, so they must be supplied
through the diet or applied topically.
FUNCTION OF FATTY ACIDS IN THE SKIN
Fatty acids play diverse and indispensable roles in
maintaining skin health and function. Some of their essential
functions include:
Barrier Function: Ceramides and other lipid components in
the stratum corneum form a hydrophobic barrier that prevents
excessive water loss from the skin and protects against
environmental aggressors, such as microbes, pollutants, and
UV radiation.
Moisturisation: Fatty acids, particularly in sebum, help
lubricate the skin surface, keeping it supple and hydrated.
Deficiencies in sebum production can lead to dryness and
increased susceptibility to irritation and infection.
Inflammation Regulation: Certain fatty acids, such as omega-3
and omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), possess
anti-inflammatory properties and can modulate immune
responses in the skin. Imbalances in the ratio of omega-3
to omega-6 PUFAs have been implicated in various skin
conditions, including acne, eczema, and psoriasis.
Wound Healing: Fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid and its
derivatives, play a crucial role in the inflammatory phase of
wound healing by promoting the migration and proliferation of
keratinocytes and fibroblasts at the wound site.
Anti-Ageing: Some fatty acids, such as linoleic acid and oleic
acid, exhibit antioxidant properties and can help mitigate
oxidative stress-induced damage to skin cells, thereby delaying
the onset of age-related changes, such as wrinkles and sagging.
LIPIDS IN SKIN DISEASES AND DISORDERS
In the skin, fatty acid metabolites also act as bioactive
molecules to control epidermal and immune cell signalling.
Disorders of their metabolism underlie many pathological
conditions, including dermatological and immunological
diseases.
Multiple conditions, both common and rare, result from
impaired skin lipid composition and metabolism. Conditions
include psoriasis, acne vulgaris, lamellar ichthyosis,
recessive X-linked ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis, and bullous
ichthyosiform erythroderma. It is difficult to be exact to the
specific lipid deficiency as other factors are also at play in these
skin conditions.
Numerous studies have found a significant reduction in the
total amount of SC ceramides when patients with lesional
and non-lesional concerns of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis
compared to patients with healthy skin of the same age (Kim et
al., 2019; Knox & O’Boyle, 2021). n3/n6- polyunsaturated fatty
acid (PUFA) and metabolite ratios were also lower (Torocsik et
al., 2019).
Patients with AD have a higher proportion of short-chain
lipids and a lower proportion of longer-chain lipids, including
fatty acids and ceramides. This reduction of the chain length
is believed to contribute to disrupted lipid organisation and
therefore, increase skin permeability.
Many skin diseases present similar trends in skin lipid profiles,
potentially limiting their use as biomarkers unless diseasespecific
differences can be found (Dyall et al., 2022).
APJ 26

It remains true, however, that any skin with the above
conditions needs moisturisation, mainly unsaturated fatty
acids and ceramides.
Selected vegetable oils that are sources of fatty acids of
importance for the skin. (Michalak et al., 2021, p.16)
IN CONCLUSION
Fatty acids are indispensable components of human skin,
exerting many functions essential for its health and integrity.
Understanding the roles of different fatty acids in skin
physiology and pathophysiology is crucial for developing
novel therapeutic strategies targeting various dermatological
conditions.
Both dietary and topical supplementation with EFAs can
profoundly affect the skin’s fatty acid composition and
eicosanoid milieu.
Future research endeavours to elucidate the intricate
mechanisms governing fatty acid metabolism and function
in the skin hold promise for advancing skincare science and
promoting overall skin health and well-being. APJ
References
Dyall, S., Balas, L., Bazan, N., Brenna, J., Chiang, N., da Costa
Souza, F., Dalli, D., Durand, T., Galano, J., Lein, P., Serhan, C.,
Taha, A. (2022). Polyunsaturated fatty acids and fatty acid-derived
lipid mediators: Recent advances in the understanding of their
biosynthesis, structures, and functions. Progress in Lipid Research,
86, 101165. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.plipres.2022.101165
Kim, B. E., Goleva, E., Kim, P. S., Norquest, K., Bronchick, C., Taylor,
P., & Leung, D. Y. M., (2019). Side-by-Side comparison of skin
biopsies and skin tape stripping highlights abnormal stratum
corneum in atopic dermatitis. Journal of Investigative Dermatology,
139 (11),2387–2389 e1.
Knox, S., & O’Boyle, N. (2021). Skin lipids in health and disease: A
review. Chemistry and Physics of Lipids, 236 105055. https://doi.
org/10.1016/j.chemphyslip.2021.105055
Michalak, M., Pierzak, M., Krecisz, B., & Suliga, E. (2021). Bioactive
Compounds for Skin Health: A Review. Nutrients, 13, 203. https://
doi.org/10.3390/nu13010203
Torocsik, D., Weise, C., Gericke, J., Szegedi, A., Lucas, R., Mihaly,
J., Worm, M., & Rühl, R., (2019). Transcriptomic and lipidomic
profiling of eicosanoid/docosanoid signalling in affected and nonaffected
skin of human atopic dermatitis patients. Experimental
Dermatology, 28(2), 177–189.
APJ 27

STAR PERFORMER
EXPERIENCE
THE POWER
OF RENEWAL
with Re-Dox Skin Lab’s
Regenerating Serum
Designed specifically for clinicians - dermatologists, dermal or aesthetic practitioners
this serum is a valuable addition to your repertoire. Its potent ingredients and targeted
benefits make it an ideal choice for addressing the diverse needs of your clientele.
Whether your clients are grappling with stubborn wrinkles or seeking to revitalise dull,
ageing skin, our serum offers a customisable solution to suit their individual needs.
Key Benefits:
• Improves skin hydration
• Promotes smooth skin texture
A powerful solution for targeting fine
lines and wrinkles can be achieved with
Re-Dox Skin Lab’s Regenerating Serum.
Harnessing the power of cutting-edge
peptides and retinol, this advanced
formula is designed to breathe new life
into your skin.
At the heart of our serum lies a blend of
potent peptides and retinol, carefully
selected for their remarkable ability to
rejuvenate the skin’s extracellular matrix.
By stimulating collagen production and
enhancing cellular turnover, these active
ingredients work in synergy to fortify
the skin’s structure from within. The
result? Visibly smoother, firmer skin with
diminished fine lines and wrinkles.
Central to the effectiveness of our serum is
its ability to increase basal keratinocyte cell
turnover. This crucial process revitalises
the skin at its core, promoting healthier,
more resilient skin over time. With regular
use, the skin becomes noticeably thicker
and more resilient, lending a youthful
vibrancy to your complexion.
Designed with clinical professionals in
mind, our Regenerating Serum sets a new
standard in quality skincare solutions.
• Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Active Ingredients include: Retinol or Matrixyl 3000 , Hydrogenated lecithin,
Allantoin, Gallic acid, Niacinamide, Sodium hyaluronate,
Boost the Serum with: Bakuchiol, Squalane, Ceramide Complex Matrixyl 3000 -
Retinol pt Bisabolol.
This serum is perfectly suited for skin conditions such as: Acne, Dry skin, Rosacea,
Wrinkles or to improve Skin barrier function.
PERSONALISED CLINICAL APPROACH
We understand that every client is unique, which is why our formula is meticulously
designed to deliver targeted benefits.
We carefully choose powerful active ingredients to enhance our serums, addressing
your client’s specific skin concerns and supporting their skin treatment journey through
optimised treatment outcomes. Our goal is to provide effective solutions tailored to their
individual needs, helping them achieve their desired results. By partnering with us, we
provide you with evidence-based potent ingredients allowing you to make a significant
difference in your client’s skincare routine.
At Re-Dox Skin Lab, all products are carefully labelled with your clinic’s name and the
added boosted ingredients ensure a more bespoke approach for superior results. Our
personalised serums are made to order, ensuring a unique formulation tailored just for
your clinic. We understand the importance of personalised care and commitment to
supporting your clinic in delivering exceptional skincare solutions. APJ
Contact Re-Dox Skin Lab today to learn how to personalise
your client’s skincare journey with high-quality,
high-performance formulations.
0466 666 519 | info@redoxskinlab.com | www.redoxskinlab.com
APJ 28

As we age, our ability to fight the free radicals that
damage our skin deteriorates.
Re-Dox Skin Lab’s scientifically-formulated serums are
antioxidant-rich, and ready to defend our skin against
environmental factors, pollutants and hormonal
changes, to slow the affects of ageing.
We are simplifying skincare with science.
APJ 29

STAR PERFORMER
melanopro
peel system
The comprehensive option for
the safe, targeted approach to
all forms of hyperpigmentation
Our natural skin colour is determined by
the melanin content of our skin that we
genetically inherit. Hyperpigmentation
occurs when melanin is deposited
unevenly or in greater than usual
amounts. The most common forms
of hyperpigmentation are melasma,
sunspots, and post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation. Let’s take a closer
look at how these occur:
• MELASMA is caused by hormonal
shifts, often during pregnancy.
Usually seen on the face
and stomach.
• SUNSPOTS occurs from
prolonged sun exposure, typically
on areas such as the face
and hands.
• POST-INFLAMMATORY
HYPERPIGMENTATION
(PIH) results from skin injuries
or inflammation, with acne being
a prevalent cause.
Hyperpigmentation treatments have
boomed over the past decade. However,
many are either not strong enough or can
trigger unwanted reactions – especially
among people with darker skin tones who
are prone to PIH.
INTRODUCING THE SOLUTION –
MELANOPRO PEEL SYSTEM
Melanopro Peel System is a unique
clinical-strength peel program that
delivers visible results in less than six
weeks. This transformative 2-phase
regimen works to visibly counteract
environmental skin damage, fading
dark spots, reducing the appearance of
hyperpigmentation, and smoothing the
skin’s texture revealing fresh, brighter
skin. Melanopro Peel System is safe and
effective on all skin tones.
The formula includes ingredients such as:
- Azelaic Acid
- Tranexamic Acid
- Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid
- Retinol
- Niacinamide
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (peptide)
These ingredients have been carefully selected to impact the production of melanin
within the epidermis, inducing a resurfacing action, reducing the appearance of
pigmentation and improving the skin’s texture and appearance.
HOW THE TREATMENT WORKS:
Phase 1: in clinic: Intensive Peeling Masque (Day 1)
• Professional application (45min)
• Removed at home (4-7 hours later)
Phase 2: at home: Resurfacing Moisturiser (4-6 weeks)
• Home applications: 2-3 times daily
• Day 1-6: flaking
• Day 7-15: adjustment
• Day 16-48: peak results
Testimonial:
Melanopro Peel System was developed to provide
excellent results for pigmentation concerns on all skin
tones. While I have witnessed outstanding results on
Fitzpatrick types I to 3, however, it was particularly exciting
to also observe excellent results on Fitzpatrick skin types 4
to 6, as these skin types are more susceptible to PIH usually
with limited treatment options. Additionally, Melanopro
Peel System is a comfortable treatment option with minimal
to no downtime, so it does not disrupt the patient’s daily
life.” Dr. Wong, Double Board-Certified Dermatologist,
Edmonton, Canada
Melanopro Peel System does more than enhance your
professional offering on all hyperpigmentation concerns –
it is also highly profitable.
Results from clinical study conducted on 30 subjects
Contact DermalogicaPro: call 1800 659 118 or visit
dermalogica.com.au
APJ 30

NEW
melanopro
peel system
fade hyperpigmentation
in 6 weeks or less
before
age spots
uneven skin tone
acne scars
discoloration
sun spots after 6 weeks
APJ 31

MEMBER PROFILE
DEB
Farnworth-Wood
A Master of Challenge and Change
Each industry has its high achievers and thought-leaders who
can be an inspiration for others. Often, what sets them apart
is how they think, view challenges and establish successful
action plans that work.
Deb Farnworth-Wood is a leading figurehead in the
aesthetics industry. Deb founded, bought and grew 10
successful businesses before entering the cosmetic world.
Her incredible achievements included purchasing one clinic
just before the global economic downturn and turning it
into a successful 60 clinic franchise, which she sold in 2019.
We are honoured that Deb is a valuable member of APAN’s
National Advisory Council – Business Innovation Division.
Deb loves challenge and change. She analyses business
models for fun. She is a decisive leader and a successful at
mentoring businesses and managing successful enterprises.
Deb can be described as a change master with extensive
experience in organisational development, project
management and in developing her teams to deliver the
organisational goals.
In this interview we explore some of her recent
achievements, as well as discuss pertinent questions on
common challenges that confront our industry in 2024.
APJ Q1: DEB, FROM YOUR EXPERIENCE HOW WOULD
YOU DEFINE THE CURRENT CHANGES THAT ARE
IMPACTING OUR INDUSTRY THAT BUSINESS OWNERS
NEED TO BE MINDFUL OF?
All industries follow an ebb and flow of innovation, change, and
progression and I’m excited to see this continuing in aesthetics.
In 2006 I predicted that having cosmetic treatments such as
Botox and Fillers would be as popular as having your hair dyed
and streaked and while we are not yet at that level of activity,
it is exciting to see the immense innovation that has occurred
since then.
I’m most excited by the huge strides in the efficacy of active
ingredients making exceptional results now possible to support
our in-clinic treatments, and still providing a reason for the
client to return frequently. Repeat rate is everything in this
business.
New developments in technology are also exciting but despite
the temptation to rush into new purchases, I warn business
owners to keep in mind the business case for each new
introduction. When I first bought my clinic the price included
4 expensive pieces of equipment that were only brought out
rarely and never recouped their purchase cost. In the quest to
have the newest and best, many business owners fail to factor
in the additional marketing, consumables, staff training, and
client education that goes with launching a new service. Often
suppliers may provide a compelling ROI argument, but it can
take many months to get a new machine earning its keep and
with interest rates at an all-time high this can be problematic.
Consumers are more educated than ever, and they are
regularly conducting their own research before a treatment.
This is good for the industry as it sets the bar high for
APJ 32

standards, but it does of course increase the need for training,
education and service costs for businesses.
APJ Q2: WE ARE SEEING MANY CLINICS STRUGGLING
TO FIND COMPETENT AND COMMITTED STAFF, AS
WELL AS EXPERIENCING A HIGH PERCENTAGE OF
RESIGNATIONS. DO YOU BELIEVE THAT THIS IS DUE
TO A RISE IN PSYCHOLOGICAL ISSUES AND A LACK OF
MENTAL CAPACITY FOR RESILIENCE, OR DO YOU BELIEVE
THAT THE RISE IN CLIENT EXPECTATIONS, AND THE
COMPLEXITIES OF HOW SALONS AND CLINICS NEED
TO NAVIGATE HOW THEY DO BUSINESS ARE NOW TOO
DIFFICULT FOR SOME TO COPE WITH?
I believe the issues are multi-level. I don’t see that clients are
any more demanding than before, but they are more educated
than they were when I came into the industry 17 years ago.
This does mean that the average therapist now needs to be
more articulate, with influencing skills, and be able to answer
questions more knowledgably than before. They are also now
more accountable for their client’s results and outcomes.
We also have a workforce that is skewed in age to a younger
demographic, who have all grown up hearing the term “side
hustle” and who have an expectation of not working full time,
not committing to any business for long, and also of having
multiple careers in different industries.
The knock-on effect of this is that they don’t necessarily value
their training, may not even have enough experience to master
the skills, and often fail to understand what this means to a
business.
As a rule, staff tend to believe the business is making far
more money than it is. Most salon businesses would be lucky
to make around 6-10% profit. Usually, staff compares their
hourly rate with the fee per service, not realising the additional
overheads of the business or that it is the business owner that
goes home without a salary on a bad month.
Therapists are now also extremely well paid, which has allowed
many the luxury of not having to work full-time. Clients,
however, want appointments at their convenience, not when
it is convenient for the therapist. My minimum requirement is
that a therapist must work three days a week on a two-week
roster covering most days. Even with three days, it’s hard for a
therapist to build a regular clientele, and as we know, it’s only
clients on the treatment bed that allows salon owners to pay
wages.
All the above have placed increased costs on business owners
who have no option but to demand more sales creating a highly
competitive environment that can be stressful for
the team.
Finally, let’s not forget that most therapists went into the
industry because they like to be hands-on, treating clients.
Broadly speaking it is a rare therapist who understands that
sales and retention of customers is crucial to the success of a
business and their ongoing employment. This is compounded
by the fact that few beauty schools meet the mark when it
comes to teaching sales, customer retention, and other key
metrics that are important for the business.
APJ Q3: ON A MORE PERSONAL LEVEL HOW IS THE
ISSADA BRAND MAKING PROGRESS IN 2024 AND ARE
THERE ANY EXCITING DEVELOPMENTS THAT BUSINESS
OWNERS CAN LOOK FORWARD TO?
From the start, I had an ambitious plan for ISSADA that
entailed significant investment, the building of a new
manufacturing suite, the implementation of modern systems,
and investment into neglected areas, such as marketing and
training. These were major pieces of work, but the team has
delivered in all areas. I don’t mind admitting that in the period
after COVID we were taken off guard – as were our suppliers
and competitors - by ingredient shortages, but all of these
have gradually been overcome either by increasing our own
production capability or by sourcing new suppliers.
R&D is a huge part of what we do, and we are constantly
researching ingredients and new ways of manufacturing
products. Our recently launched biome-restoring Symbiotic
Moisturiser (featuring 1.8 million live pro-biotics per gram)
is just one example of this – with half a dozen more in the
pipeline. Our quest for the “All Hero” range continues, and we
simply will not compromise on this.
The hard work has paid off and we have increased our
recognition and presence internationally with dermatologists,
aesthetic clinics, and spas – and we are in discussions with
several overseas distributors and stockists too.
We have also been working on a few novel projects. We have
a long list of celebrities who have used ISSADA and many
makeup artists that work in film and TV use our makeup too.
While we are used to being “behind the scenes “of film and
TV, we recently got to play centre stage in the plot of a Gold
Coast Film - “Audrey”. The plotline sees Jackie Van Beek using
ISSADA to transform herself into her 18-year-old daughter
to reinvent herself and start a new life. The film premieres in
Texas in March and Melbourne later in the year (see also p47).
From the start, I had an ambitious plan for ISSADA that
entailed a significant investment, the building of a new
manufacturing suite, the implementation of modern
systems, and investment into neglected areas, such as
marketing and training. These were major pieces of work,
but the team has delivered in all areas.
APJ 33

Clinic and salon businesses depend
on the return rates of clients, so
any product that is going to keep
loyal customers coming back
regularly is important.
Therefore, when you combine
makeup and skincare you are
doubling the return need for
the client – especially when the
makeup is of high quality and good
for overall skin health.
Clinic and salon businesses depend on the return rates of
clients, so any product that is going to keep loyal customers
coming back regularly is important. Therefore, when you
combine makeup and skincare you are doubling the return
need for the client – especially when the makeup is of high
quality and good for overall skin health.
The ISSADA makeup client is very loyal. They understand
quality and rarely go back to high-street brands. We not only
offer foundation products for post-treatment application,
but others that nurture the skin that contain actives to help
enhance the in-salon treatments. Our foundations, primers,
and lash serum all have an incredible re-purchase rate that
equals that of skincare.
APJ Q4: HAS THE SYNERGY BETWEEN ISSADA
COSMECEUTICALS AND ISSADA MINERAL MAKEUP
HELPED BUSINESS OWNERS INCREASE THEIR SALES?
SHARE WITH US YOUR FEEDBACK FROM BUSINESS
OWNERS AND ANY SUCCESS STORY OF WHY THIS
SYNERGY HAS WORKED.
ISSADA Mineral Makeup is infused with vitamins, minerals
and actives and was always at a cosmeceutical level, although
before I bought the business it was never promoted as such. It
was this aspect that attracted my attention and why I saw it as
the perfect fit to sit alongside cosmeceutical skincare.
We have some great stories of stockists who were close to
closing their doors then took in the ISSADA skincare and/
or makeup ranges and have since thrived. Many of our new
stockists are those who worked with ISSADA with a previous
employer and are now either opening their own salon or simply
referring us to a new employer.
The beauty of the range is choice. We have a collection for
everyone, and every collection offers either high repeat-rate
purchases or spontaneous impulse buys.
We also have mineral colour cosmetics, such as eye
palettes, lip crayons and lipsticks which are hydrating and
moisturising and make good impulse buys when located on,or
near the reception.
Our skincare and makeup stockists cover a wide demographic
ranging from dermatologists, plastic surgeons, doctors, nurseled
clinics, hotels and spas, and salons, to mobile makeup
artists, and those working on film and TV.
Our full range is over 600 SKUs, so of course there is no
expectation that anyone will stock the full range, but it does
mean that we can tailor products to suit each client’s particular
demographic. We also have a hybrid stockist model that allows
stockists to hold a partial range and sell other items in an
affiliate manner. This reduces their working
capital tied up in stock while allowing them to make
additional revenue. APJ
Deb Farnworth-Wood
CEO ISSADA Cosmetics, Founder Shareholder AURA MEDICAL,
Board Member GRO CLINICS
Member of APAN’s National Advisory Council – Business
Innovation Division
APJ 34

THE IMPORTANCE OF
STORYTELLING TO
PROMOTE BUSINESS
GROWTH
Kirstie Fitzpatrick
Storytelling is at the heart of how we communicate. It’s often
how we answer questions about how our week, our work
or our holiday is going and it allows us to share our personal
experiences. Storytelling can tap into the emotional psyche
and in doing so, helps us relate to others and helps others
understand our experiences.
In business, storytelling can be a powerful tool to engage
clients or consumers.
Why is storytelling powerful?
The way to see the benefit of storytelling is to consider the
impact is has through the personal element that people can
relate to. In media, it’s often why some of the big stories
of the day invoke a sense of anger, sadness, justice or joy –
storytelling can trigger our emotions and vulnerability and
often makes us feel what others are feeling. Storytelling is
therefore often about gripping an audience, and it’s the same
in business. It can also help form a community – clients and
consumers can feel as though they’re with you, alongside you,
or getting an insight into what you’ve gone through to make it
to where you are today. This could be the difference between a
client choosing your facility over another.
Finding your storytelling voice
STEP ONE: Work out who you are. In media, we talk about
being ourselves, but just that little bit more polished; being
authentic but also professional. Finding your voice starts by
finding what you’re passionate about, why you’re passionate
about it and what you can bring to the conversation or the
industry that others can’t or aren’t bringing. This may be by
talking about or doing something different, or by giving a
new perspective on something we know about already. Selfpromotion
can sometimes feel unnatural, so go back to basics.
If you’re a professional working in the industry – ask yourself,
what was it that got you into it? What is it that keeps you in it?
If you’re a business owner – what drove you to go out on your
own? What are your successes and your downfalls? Was their
rejection or failure before your success?
STEP TWO: Research. The more research you do, the more
knowledge you’ll have. Work out your niche interests, upskill in
knowledge and research, and start talking about and adapting
your practices to reflect that.
The impact of storytelling
Clients want to hear about your decade-long battle with adult
acne. Consumers want to know that you created a skincare
line because the products on offer weren’t adequately treating
the condition you suffered from. Consumers want to know if
you’ve been through what they’ve been through, and equally,
how you’ve treated clients that have experienced the same
thing they are experiencing. It can help break down the barrier
around a client’s decision-making process, levels of trust, and
confidence that you understand their needs.
Once we are emotionally invested, we’re also more likely to
retain that information or that story. So what’s the tangible
impact of that? What we also know is once a person has built
an emotional connection to something, they have an increased
chance of purchasing it, consuming it, looking out for it, and
most importantly, telling other people about it. Once you’ve
got other people talking about your story – that’s storytelling
success. APJ
If you wish to contact Kirstie Fitzpatrick you can reach her via
email: kiristiefitzpatrick@hotmail.com
APJ 35

BOTANICAL SCIENCE
Echinacea -
MORE THAN A
PRETTY DAISY
With its downward turned daisy-like petals and its bright
pink bloom, the echinacea plant is renowned for its incredible
medicinal properties, both in boosting the immune system, as
well as for the skin. So, let’s explore this amazing plant for
its benefits.
WHAT IS ECHINACEA?
Echinacea includes a group of herbaceous, flowering
perennial plants in the daisy family, prized for their medicinal
properties. The Echinacea genus has nine main species, which
are commonly called coneflowers such as the Pale Purple
Coneflower or the Tennessee Coneflower. The flowers are
beautiful, and some varieties can grow up to four feet in height.
Their colourful heads are easy to distinguish, and you can
commonly find them in eastern and central North America, the
regions they are native to.
In Australia, echinacea is relatively easy to grow as a hardy
perennial that usually reaches approximately one metre
in height. It emerges from the soil each spring and flowers
throughout the warmer months before setting seed and dying
back down into the ground in late autumn.
Echinacea is commonly classified as an herb, although many
think of it as a flower. Different parts of the plants, including
its flowers, leaves, stem, and root, have a variety of phenolic
compounds that are beneficial to health. These include
compounds like cichoric acid, caftaric acid, echinacoside, and
various other polysaccharides and alkylamides. The plant has
been used for hundreds of years and used extensively in herbal
remedies. Even as recent as the 20th century it was valued as a
reliable herbal option to boost immunity and fight infections. It
has long been known as one of the best ways to prevent colds.
However, the benefits of echinacea are dose-depended as it
can cease to have an effect and can impact T-cells in a negative
way if used consistently in large doses. However, when used in
the correct doses, echinacea can offer exceptionally beneficial.
THE MULTIPLE BENEFITS OF ECHINACEA
The health benefits of echinacea are well documented
supporting its ability to boost the immune system, prevent
cancer, cure upper respiratory issues, eliminate bacterial and
viral infections, reduce inflammation, treat skin conditions,
speed healing and recovery, regulate blood sugar levels, treat
anxiety, boost oral health, as well as eliminate ear infections
and prevent their reoccurrence. There are indeed, a broad
array of benefits.
If you’ve researched antiviral herbs that help combat the
common cold or flu, you have probably came across echinacea.
The reason for the surge in popularity of this magnificently
attractive flower is its extensive benefit for our health and
well-being like few plants on the planet.
Prior to 1950 and the introduction of antibiotics, echinacea
held an esteemed medicinal status. As the healthcare industry
shifted, antibiotics replaced many natural remedies, resulting
in the famed herb losing it popularity. However, ongoing
research and further studies are once again, confirming the
benefits of the humble echinacea.
DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE PLANT OFFER DIFFERENT
CONSTITUENTS
Most people don’t realise that the chemical constituents
contained in the echinacea root differ significantly from
those in the upper part of the plant. If we analyse the roots
of the purple coneflower, we can see that they have high
APJ 36

concentrations of volatile oils, while the parts that grow above
the soil tend to contain more polysaccharides that are known
to trigger immune function. Echinacea extract is essentially a
tincture from this upper part of the plant.
Many of echinacea’s chemical constituents are powerful
immunity stimulators and can provide a significant
therapeutic value. A few echinacea constituents that you’re
probably familiar with are essential oils, flavonoids, inulin,
polysaccharides and vitamin C.
Studies also confirm that the portion of the plant that grows
above the ground is the most effective. Interestingly, in
Germany, dietary herbs are regulated by the government,
and above ground parts of the Echinacea purpurea species
are approved as natural remedies for preventing and treating
urinary tract infections, upper respiratory tract infections,
colds and slow-healing wounds.
HEALTH BENEFITS
There are an infinite number of echinacea benefits,. Here are
seven of the key ones that stand out:
1. Helps Combat Cancer
Fascinating research about echinacea benefits regarding
brain cancer has been published by the National Institutes
of Health (NIH). Researchers state that the “medicinal value
of phytochemicals contained in echinacea is clearly evident
and indicates that these agents, as well as phytochemicals not
yet discovered in other herbs, may be valuable tools to combat
tumours.”
The use of echinacea as another alternative cancer
treatment is now being recommended, literally, “alongside
conventional therapy,” according to researchers.
2. Boosts the Immune System
How does echinacea help with treating the common cold?
Published in the journal Lancet Infectious Diseases, the
University of Connecticut performed a meta-analysis
study that evaluated the effects of echinacea using 14
studies. It was determined that:
• Echinacea can reduce the chances of catching a
common cold by 58 per cent.
• Echinacea reduces the duration of the common cold
by almost 1.5 days.
Craig Coleman, assistant professor of pharmacy practice
and lead author of the study, added that, “The take home
message from our study is that echinacea does indeed have
powerful cold prevention and cold treatment benefits.” This
is exactly why echinacea products are one of several
effective remedies for preventing and treating colds.
The United States Department of Agriculture Natural
Resources Conservation Service reports that the immune
system seems to be strongly influenced by the level of the
echinacea dose. It appears that 10 milligrams of echinacea
per one kilogram of body weight, taken daily over a 10-day
period, is effective as an immunity stimulant.
In addition, the medical journal Hindawi published material
suggesting that echinacea stops viral colds. However, the
most significant results of echinacea benefits were the
effects when used on recurring infections.
To date, research shows that the plant has been shown
to reduce cold symptoms, but it seems that the effects of
echinacea are more powerful once cold symptoms start.
Another study, this one published in Virus Research,
evaluated the effects of echinacea against viral and
secondary bacterial infections that often follow. Plant
extracts were able to fight viral respiratory infections,
including the flu, while also reducing inflammation and
lowering the risk of developing bacterial complications.
3. Alleviates Pain
Echinacea’s history began when Echinacea purpurea was
used by the Great Plains Indians as a painkiller. It’s an
especially effective pain reliever for the following types:
headaches, bowels, HSV herpes, measles, sore throat,
tonsillitis and toothache.
Recent research suggests that Echinacea purpurea and
angustifolia activate the endocannabinoid system,
enhancing its pain-relieving effects. In in vitro and vivo
studies, the herb has also proven to reduce inflammatory
APJ 37

Studies show that echinacea boosts
the skin’s own moisturising properties.
This benefit, increases epidermal lipids,
ceramides and cholesterol and protects
the skin by making its outer layer
stronger.
pain, such as arthritis as well as in cases of burns.
4. Acts as Anti-Inflammatory Agent
Inflammation is at the root of most diseases. Various
factors, including stress, toxins in our food and poor
sleep are contributing factors. Thankfully, as explained
by the University of British Columbia, regular echinacea
consumption can effectively reverse and alleviate various
types of inflammation. Products containing echinacea may
even help with uveitis, or eye inflammation.
5. Helps Improve Mental Health
Echinacea angustifolia is the recommended species to
help with specific ailments related to ADD/ADHD. In
a survey of herbal use in children with ADHD disorder
or depression, echinacea was among the most common
herbal medicines given for behavioural symptoms. In one
study, 83% of caregivers said they gave herbal medicines
alone, whereas 13 per cent gave herbal medicines with
prescription drugs with the supervision of a health
care professional.
Both adults and children suffering from ADD/ADHD have
a higher-than-normal chance of experiencing emotional
disturbances with the addition of echinacea, especially
those suffering from anxiety, depression and social
phobias. Again, dosage is key. It’s recommended that
people only take 20 milligrams at a time and no more. In
fact, taking more than 20 milligrams per dose can actually
cancel out the echinacea benefits that relieve anxiety.
6. Relieves Upper Respiratory Issues
Because of its immune-boosting and anti-inflammatory
effects, research indicates that this herb may work to
improve the following upper respiratory symptoms such
as acute sinusitis, all flu symptoms and asthma. In fact,
in a clinical study of asthma sufferers, echinacea acted
similarly to classic synthetic drugs in treating asthma.
Researchers confirmed that studies have shown that
secretion of asthma-related cytokines in the bronchial
epithelial cells can be reversed by echinacea preparations.
Specifically, echinacea showed significant broncho-dilatory
and anti-inflammatory effects. Study authors concluded
that this “provide(s) a scientific basis for the application
of this herb in traditional medicine as a supplementary
treatment of allergic disorders of the airways, such as
asthma.
7. Fights Infection
Echinacea is also a fantastic remedy for a whole slew of
infections. One study found that taking echinacea and
applying a medicated cream to the skin can lower the rate
of reoccurring vaginal infections by to 16% compared to
simply taking the medicine alone. It’s also known to help
with conditions such as: bloodstream infections, genital
herpes, gum disease, malaria, syphilis, typhoid, urinary
track infection and vaginal yeast infection.
WHAT ABOUT SKIN BENEFITS?
When it comes to the skin studies confirm that echinacea can
benefit the skin in three specific ways:
a. Protection to the skin: Due to its high levels of antioxidant,
it’s not surprising that echinacea is also beneficial for skin
health. Antioxidants are, after all, the secret weapon behind
most healing superfoods. For the skin, antioxidants, more
specifically the flavonoids, cichoric acid and rosmarinic acid
in echinacea are highly protective.
As we know, our skin is under attack daily from things like
UV rays and pollution. All these external aggressors create
damaging free radicals. Free radicals are highly destructive
molecules that can wreak havoc on your skin. They are
unstable and in search of a missing electron. When free
radicals steal an electron from other molecules, it leaves
them unstable. Over time, free radical damage shows up
APJ 38

as increased fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation,
and dullness. The good news is that the antioxidant-rich
ingredients found in echinacea extract are proven to protect
your skin by neutralising the damage from free radicals.
b. Fight breakouts: skin lesions and breakouts can be very
disturbing, however, sometimes the methods used to
minimise skin blemishes can cause irritation and dryness.
Switching to echinacea is a gentler option in helping to
minimise blemishes. This is because echinacea can assist
in killing the bacteria that contributes to breakouts and
in calming the skin. One study found that echinacea’s
antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties work
together to slow the growth of Propionibacerium, a common
acne culprit. The anti-inflammatory echinacea benefit is
especially great for deep cystic breakouts, which tend to be
red and painful.
c. Nourishing benefits: Unlike traditional moisturising
ingredients, such as butters and humectants which nourish
the skin from the outside in, echinacea actually nourishes
from the inside out. Studies show that echinacea boosts the
skin’s own moisturising properties. This benefit increases
levels of epidermal lipids, ceramides and cholesterol and
protects the skin by making the outer layer strong, meaning
less moisture is able to escape over time. This boost in
hydration can also lead to a reduction in fine lines and
wrinkles.
Echinacea is further proof that gentle, plant-based
ingredients can also offer major skincare benefit.
Additionally, research has shown no skin irritation in using
echinacea.
RISKS AND SIDE EFFECTS
As I have already mentioned, echinacea benefits are dose
dependent. It’s important to know that there may be side
effects in taking too much echinacea internally. In some
cases, high doses of the plant’s extracts can sometimes cause
nausea and dizziness, particularly in those who have allergies.
Therefore, it’s not considered safe to use echinacea for the
treatment of seasonal allergies. It’s also possible to have an
allergic reaction to echinacea, so starting slowly in small doses
is important when taking it internally. The bottom line is, don’t
exceed ingesting safe and recommended amounts. To avoid
long-term, excessive use, take a break every few weeks if you
are using supplements regularly.
FORMS AND DOSES
Echinacea is available over the counter in many places,
including health food stores, online and even pharmacies and
supermarkets. It’s sold in many different forms, including liquid
extracts, dried herb, capsules or pills, and even as echinacea
tea. Sometimes it’s combined with the herb goldenseal in some
immune support supplements.
As a final note of caution, it’s sadly common that products are
mislabelled as the species of echinacea, or the preparations
don’t contain the labelled amount of ingredients. That’s why
it’s so important for people to use products from trusted and
transparent brands.
IN CONCLUSION
There are many traditional echinacea benefits and uses, but
the strongest scientific evidence available currently supports
echinacea use (as echinacea extract or echinacea tea) as a
way to help slow the development and reduce the intensity
and duration of upper respiratory viral infections, such as the
common cold and influenza (flu).
When included in skincare formulations, echinacea is
known to provide antioxidant protection, anti-bacterial and
inflammatory benefit as well as support hydration levels in
the skin. APJ
APJ 39

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
THE CHANGES IN
BUSINESS FOCUS FOR
SUCCESS IN 2024
Working within a busy salon or clinic
can be quite exciting and enjoyable,
but running a successful business is an
entirely different matter.
Several factors affect the success of a
business, and while some are universal,
there are others that pop up that require a
shift in the way you do business, especially
in recent times.
Here we present five key areas that you
should review and update to ensure the
success of your business in 2024.
• Client-centric consultation.
In the past, the client consultation
objective was strictly about ascetaining
your client’s skin so that you can
recommend an approriate treatment
plan, However, in 2024 this process has
fundamentally expanded to include a
more comprehensive evaluation of the
person as a whole.
Before you proceed to make any
recommendations, you are now required
to first spend a few minutes getting to
know your client. Investigate as much
as you can about them - their primary
concerns, their expectations, how well
versed they are on the services you
provide and their pre-conceived ideas of
your knowledge and what you can offer
them.
At the outset you will need to secure
their trust in you. You can only achieve
this if they experience your genuine
interest and care for them. This is an
important critical first step. It is amazing
what valuable information can be
gathered if you get this first step right. It
is also useful to determine information
such as, their family status, size of family,
age-group and responsibilities and gain
some understanding of their financial
reality. Based on this information you
can design a treatment program that
is best aligned with their personal and
individual needs.
• Offer value to your target clients.
Avoid discounting, but rather provide
them with added value. Adding an
extra service to complement your
client’s treatment that can be delivered
cost effectively while enhancing
their experience is always the wisest
investment in risng above your client’s
expectations.
• Integrity means delivering on
your promise.
Make sure that your products and your
treatments deliver exactly what they say
they will do. Don’t over-promise or sell
functionality that your products don’t
have, or outlines treatment results that
you can’t quite meet or deliver. Be true
to your promise as this is the foundation
of your integrity. In a highly competitive
world, REPUTATION is one of the
strongest ways to stand out and to retain
loyalty from yur clients.
• Be flexible and quick to adapt.
Change is the only constant, and for your
business to prosper, you will need to
shift with the times. Whether you have
to follow industry trends, or introduce
technical updates, your ability to be
flexible is essential.
Flexibility isn’t just useful when you’re
adjusting your products or marketing.
Employee expectations and needs will
change. Customer communications will
swing. It might feel more comfortable for
you to stick with what you’re used to and
ask other people to change instead. But
that approach could limit your ability to
succeed.
Adapting to change isn’t always easy.
But greeting change with a positive and
open attitude can improve productivity,
loyalty, and engagement. It can also help
your business to identify new ideas and
give you a competitive advantage by
constantly updating your services.
Flexibility and adaptability are soft
skills, and if they don’t come naturally
to you, you may need to embark on
ways to practice them. You can do
this by changing some of your daily
habits, choosing something new that
may benefit you more e.g. introduce
intermittent fasting, shift the time that
you exercise or increase your physical
activities. Explore a different
musical genre? Initiate new experiences.
While good habits that are consistently
practiced offer stability, it is also good
to learn to be adaptable to change and
look at positive change as an adventure
that will contribute to the betterment of
your business and your life. As they say
“variety is the spice of life”.
Develop a flexible mindset that is
adaptable to change. View change as a
APJ 40

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
step toward progress and improvement.
• Keep constantly learning.
Static living only contributes to
regression, while bold decision-making
and creative problem-solving can be
key to your success. However, your
decisions should be based on wise
judgement and sound knowledge.
Keep an open mind and continue to
learn. Assess your information for
accuracy and value. Attend educational
events with specific intentions in mind,
not randomly. Determine what you are
seeking to learn and gain value from
that event. Enrich your knowledge and
allow it to reveal fresh and new ways of
servicing your clients. Innovative ways
to engage with your staff and inspire
them to do better. APJ
THE ACCC STEPS UP ITS
POLICING ON PRICING
OF SERVICES
As we known in business, prices are
impacted by supply and demand issues.
During competitive times businesses
engage in innovative ways to stand out
and entice consumers to favour them over
the competition, especially when there
are numerous competitors that you are up
against. For our industry, this applies to
both salon and clinic owners as well
as suppliers.
The governing body that set the rules for
consumer relations and business within
Australia is the Australian Consumer and
Competition Commission (ACCC).
As a business owner you will need to be
familiar with laws that may impact your
business. Here are a few important one
that may wish to review:
SETTING PRICES: WHAT’S ALLOWED
Businesses are generally able to set
their own prices. But they must not
mislead consumers about what they will
be charged or why, and must set prices
independently of their competitors:
What the law does and doesn’t allow
Businesses can generally set, raise and
lower the prices they charge for the
products and services they supply.
Businesses can also decide the prices
of their goods and services based on a
variety of factors, including:
• recovering the costs, they face in
supplying the goods or services
• earning a profit
• conditions in the market, with
consideration of demand and supply
of those goods and services.
The prices for some goods and services
can remain relatively stable over long
periods. In other instances, prices
for goods and services can change
significantly on a regular basis, due
to changes in consumer demand or
availability.
Prices that people think are too high, or
sudden increases in price, are not illegal.
However, the business’s behaviour around
setting prices may be illegal if it harms
competition in a certain way.
It’s also illegal for businesses to make
false or misleading claims about prices,
including the reason for any changes
in prices.
PRICE FIXING
Price fixing often happens when
competitors agree on pricing on the
minimum price they will charge. This
allows them to keep their prices relatively
stable and protect them from dropping
their prices too low. This is often a
common practice among both small and
large businesses, and while it may appear
as an innovative way of protecting against
large price drops, price fixing is technically
considered as cartel conduct and is always
illegal and subject to huge fines.
CARD SURCHARGES
If a business charges a payment surcharge,
it must be able to prove the cost that it is
based on. Surge pricing is not illegal, but
businesses must be clear about the price
consumers will pay. They must also not
make false or misleading claims about
their prices. For example if you apply a
price to a particular services and you
decided to include an additional product
to the treatment, you must inform the
client of any changes in the treatment
price and ensure you get their approval
first. You cannot add on extra change
without informing the client.
Another issue is if your business requires
a surcharge if the client pays by credit
card this must be clearly displayed and the
client informed before the transaction.
APJ 41

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
This surcharge must be justifiable. For
example you cannot charge an additional
5% for using Amex, when you are only
charged 3%.
PRICE DISPLAYS
Businesses must display clean and
accurate prices and must not mislead
consumers about their prices. There are
specific laws about how business must
display their prices.
Here are a few ways that displayed a
price can be considered by the ACCC
as misleading:
Stating the sale price is marked down
from an earlier price when:
• The items were not sold at that price
in a reasonable period right before the
sale started.
• Only a very small proportion of items
were sold at the price right before
the sale.
• Comparing the displayed price with an
incorrect cost or wholesale price.
• Comparing the displayed price to a
recommended retail price (RRP)
that no-one generally charges for
the product.
• Advertising a price that is not the
total price the consumer will
have to pay e.g. omitting to mention
any additional surcharge for card
transactions etc.
• Promoting a price as being a sale or
special price when it is in fact the
normal price.
• Where an item is offered at a sale
or special price for an extended period
of time, it may be misleading to call it
a sale or special price, as the price has
effectively become the new
selling price.
Information must be accurate
and truthful
Any information or claim that a business
provides about its products or services
must be accurate, truthful and based on
reasonable grounds. This includes:
• Information on prices
• images and descriptions of what is
offered.
• claims about the value, benefits,
qualities or performance of products
and services.
• shipping options and delivery times.
This rule applies to any communication
by a business, including through:
• advertising
• product packaging
• a quotation
• any information provided by staff,
whether verbally or in writing
• social media
• testimonials
• websites or any other platform.
Any statement that creates a false
impression about goods and services can
be breaking the law and is subject to
huge fines.
The ACCC also has a strict policy that your
information must be accurate nd truthful.
Silence can be misleading
In some circumstances, failure to disclose
information may be viewed as misleading.
This is particularly the case if a business
provides some information to a consumer
but doesn’t mention important details the
consumer should know that are relevant
to their decision. We usually comply with
this law through our Client Informed
Consent. This is why these documents
must be up to date and provide full
discloser of both the benefits and risks of
a procedure.
Make sure your Client Informed Consent
forms are up to date. You can also access
several of these from APAN resource
document section of our website https://
apanetwork.com/resources/resourcedocuments
APJ
ACSC NEW GUIDELINES
HELPING BUSINESS
SECURE CLIENT DATA
SECURITY
The Australian Cyber Security Centre
(ACSC) has released a new publication:
Securing Customer Personal Data for Small
the Medium Business. It provides guidance
to help business owners improve their
data security and protect their client data
from growing risks.
Data breaches against Australian
business and their clients are increasing in
complexity, scale and impact. In a country
that is increasingly conducting business
online, businesses have a resposib8ility
to keep the personal data they collect
from their clients and customers secure
from unauthorised access, unauthorised
disclosure, corruption and loss. As such,
business should take appropriate steps to
secure any personal information or data
they hold.
For our industry is it also important
that businesses include a policy in their
HR Policies and Procedures on DATA
PRIVACY. Staff must be clearly instructed
APJ 42

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
and asked to comply with the strict
confidentiality policy relating to the
clients database and its unauthorised
access for personal gain or for exposing
this information to an unauthorised
third party.
Legislative requirements for protection
of personal data
The Privacy Act 1988 sets out how
organisations must handle personal
information.
Key data security practices
For business to be confident they are
employing appropriate data security
practices ASD’s ACSC has a number of
key recommendations that businesses
should consider implementing. There key
recommendations are:
• Create a register for personal data
• Limit who can collect personal data
• Delete unused personal data
• Consolidate personal data
repositories
• Control access to personal data
• Encrypt personal data
• Backup personal data
• Log and monitor access to
personal data
• Implement secure Bring your own
Device practices
• Report a data breach involving
personal data.
Businesses cannot afford to forgo
investing in their security, and risk
compromising the security of the clients’
personal data. The prevalence of data
breachers and ransomware attacks
underscore the importance of sound
security practices. Business also cannot
afford to assume that they will not be
targeted. Investing in security proactively
can be far more effective than having to
manage the repercussions and costs of
major data breach, not to mention the
stress. Australian organisations should
strongly consider becoming part of
the ACSC Cyber Security Partnership
Program (APAN is also a member), in order
to gain a better understanding the cyber
security landscape and the steps required
to protect themselves from cyber
security threats.
If any of the above information is unclear,
or you have any queries please contact
1300 CYBER1 (1300 292 371). Also visit
www.cyber.gov.au APJ
AGE DIVERSITY IS GOOD
FOR BUSINESS A NEW
STUDY CONFORMED
Within the beauty and aesthetics
industry, young staff members with
beautiful skin reflective of the kind of
results that the salon or clinic is offering
is considered an advantage. However,
new research shows that employing
mature-aged workers is good for small
businesses. The government confirms
that information and support is available
for small businesses looking to embrace
age diversity.
With employment trends always changing,
it’s important for employers to provide
a workplace culture that will attract
employees of all ages.
New research shows that hiring older
employees can open up a range of
opportunities for small businesses, helping
to increase productivity, innovation, and
workforce reliability and stability.
The Department of Employment and
Workplace Relations (DEWR) ran a
research project to get more information
about employing mature age workers. The
research worked with 15 small businesses
to explore whether targeted awareness
raising would encourage them to consider
employing mature age workers. The
businesses that took part in the report
were from the personal care, hospitality
and wholesale and retail industries, and
were based in regional and city locations
across Australia.
Initially, all participating employers
held some positive views of mature age
workers. However, through taking part in
the project, most realised that they had
some biases and had been excluding
this group.
The research found that the best support
for small business wanting to hire mature
age workers are short fact sheets, tailored
supports and good news stories from their
industries.
Check out the Department of
Employment and Workplace Relations
Mature Age Hub to learn more about
the research and see what tools and
strategies your small business can use
to attract more mature age employees.
www.dewr.gov.au/mature-age-hub APJ
APJ 43

STAR PERFORMER
ROCCOCO’S
CHARCOAL
CALARITY
MASK
And the Unique
Properties of
Ubame Oak
Charcoal is a powerhouse ingredient
revered in the realm of skincare for
its remarkable detoxifying prowess.
This skincare superhero boasts a
porous structure that acts as a magnet,
effortlessly drawing out impurities, toxins,
and excess oil lurking both on the skin’s
surface and deep within its pores. With
its ability to effectively purify the skin,
charcoal delivers a luxurious cleansing
experience, leaving your complexion
feeling impeccably clean, refreshed,
and revitalised.
Why Ubame Oak Charcoal?
When it comes to combating acne
breakouts, the charcoal derived from
the Ubame Oak Tree stands out as a
remarkable ally for achieving clearer,
healthier skin. Unlike conventional charcoal
sources, such as bamboo or coconut,
charcoal from the Ubame Oak Tree
possesses unique properties that make it
exceptionally effective in targeting acneprone
skin.
Renowned for its superior absorptive
capabilities, Ubame Oak charcoal has a
remarkable affinity for oleic acid, a major
component of sebum that can contribute
to pore congestion and acne formation.
By absorbing excess oleic acid, charcoal
from the Ubame Oak Tree helps to regulate
sebum production and prevent the
buildup of pore-clogging impurities. This
not only aids in the treatment of existing
acne but also works to prevent future
breakouts, leaving the skin looking clearer,
smoother, and more radiant. With its unparalleled purifying power, Ubame Oak charcoal
is a game-changing ingredient for anyone seeking to reclaim control over their complexion
and achieve lasting clarity.
Introducing Roccoco Botanicals Charcoal Clarity Mask
This revolutionary mask contains charcoal from the Ubame Oak tree, along with
succinic acid. Making this mask a winner for breakout-prone skin. A finalist in Cosmetic
Innovation, this hydrating clay mask reduces swelling and oedema, while suppressing
inflammation.
Naturally derived from amber, succinic acid inhibits the proliferation of acne-causing
bacteria and offers a gentle yet effective exfoliating action, promoting normal
desquamation to prevent pore congestion and breakouts. An alternative to salicylic acid
which is safe for even the most sensitive skin. Reducing sebum by 41.5%, it provides
much-needed relief for oily and acne-prone skin types, Moreover, succinic acid’s
hydrating properties work wonders for the skin’s moisture barrier, increasing hydration
levels by 40% after just two weeks and a staggering 64% by the eight-week mark. With
such remarkable results, succinic acid emerges as a powerhouse ingredient, offering a
comprehensive solution for those battling acne while promoting a clearer, smoother, and
more hydrated complexion.
The Charcoal Clarity Mask goes above and beyond in nourishing acne-prone skin by
stimulating ceramides, essential lipids that form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface.
Ceramides play a crucial role in maintaining hydration and fortifying the skin’s natural
defenses against external aggressors.
Remarkably, this mask boosts ceramide production by an astounding 280%, addressing
a common deficiency observed in acne clients. By replenishing these vital components,
the Charcoal Clarity Mask helps to restore balance to the skin’s lipid barrier, promoting
optimal hydration and resilience. With its potent ceramide-boosting action, this mask
offers a comprehensive solution for addressing the unique needs of acne-prone skin,
ensuring a healthier, more resilient complexion. APJ
Contact: Roccoco Botanicals 07 3807 1429
Jacine.greenwood@roccoco.com | au.roccoco.com
APJ 44

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
Jacine Greenwood, CEO and founder
of Roccoco Botanicals, expressed her
gratitude and excitement over the win,
highlighting the Overnight Recovery
Mask’s unique ability to harness the
skin’s natural processes for rejuvenation.
“Winning the Alle Award for the second
year in a row is not just an honour for
Roccoco Botanicals, but a testament to our
commitment to pioneering in the field of
cosmetic innovation,” Greenwood stated.
Rachel Grabenhofer, the awards organiser
and managing scientific editor of
Cosmetics & Toiletries, commented on the
competitive nature of this year’s awards,
saying, “The level of innovation we’ve seen
this year was exceptional, with very little
separating the finalists. Roccoco Botanicals’
win is a reflection of their outstanding
contribution to the industry.”
Roccoco Botanicals first made Australian
history in 2022 with their Ruby Crystal
Cleanser, establishing the brand’s
reputation for groundbreaking products.
The Alle Awards win further cements
Roccoco Botanicals’ position as a leader in
skincare innovation.
ABOUT ROCCOCO BOTANICALS
ROCCOCO BOTANICALS
MAKES HISTORY WITH
SECOND CONSCUTIVE
ALLE AWARD WIN
Roccoco Botanicals, the acclaimed
Australian skincare brand, has once again
been distinguished at the prestigious Alle
Awards, marking a historic consecutive
win for the company. The Alle Awards,
often likened to the Oscars of Cosmetic
Innovation, spotlight the remarkable
strides in cosmetics research
and development.
This year, Roccoco Botanicals triumphed
in the microbiome category with their
revolutionary Overnight Recovery Mask, a
sleeping mask designed to reset the skin’s
circadian rhythm and rapidly accelerate
repair of the skin whilst you sleep.
The announcement was made during the
exclusive awards dinner on March 6, 2024,
at The Biltmore Los Angeles. The gala event
was a highlight of the Beauty Accelerate
conference, gathering luminaries from
across the beauty industry.
Cosmetics & Toiletries (C&T), the
esteemed organiser of the Alle Awards,
oversaw the competition, which drew
numerous innovative entries this year.
A panel of expert judges meticulously
evaluated each submission based on
a range of criteria, culminating in the
selection of the finalists and winners for
their exceptional contributions to beauty
and skincare innovation.
For over a decade, Roccoco Botanicals
has been at the forefront of harnessing
the synergistic power of nature and
phytochemistry to deliver rapid,
transformative results for the skin. With
a commitment to innovation and quality,
Roccoco continues to redefine skincare
standards, offering products that cater to
a wide range of skin concerns.
APJ 46

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other
Aesthetic Industry information
daughter’s identity (with the help
of ISSADA Mineral Makeup) to
reinvent herself.
ISSADA’s CEO Deb Farnworth-Wood
said “We were thrilled to be offered the
opportunity to be involved. We supply many
makeup artists throughout Australia, and
internationally, but being so close to Movie
World, our products are used on many wellknown
shows. This, however, will be the first
time our products will feature in front of the
cameras rather than backstage!”
Producer Michael Wrenn of Invisible
Republic was thrilled to partner with
ISSADA.
Congratulations to Jacine for this
achievement. We wish her and her
company ongoing success in all her
endeavors. APJ
ISSADA COSMECEUTICALS
FEATURE IN NEW FILM
Gold Coast-based ISSADA Cosmeceuticals
is no stranger to the glitz and glamour of
working with film and media, with a lineup
of stars using their products including
Oprah, Angelina Jolie, Gwyneth Paltrow,
Gisele Bundchen, Linda Evangelista,
Naomi Watts, Kate Moss, Tania Zaetta,
Miranda Kerr and many more.
But while ISSADA is more familiar
with working behind the scenes during
production, their latest collaboration with
producers Invisible Republic and Orange
Entertainment brings them centre stage
in the plot line of the new Comedy film
“Audrey” starring Jackie van Beek.
The plot follows Ronny Lipstick, selfappointed
mother of the year, who
cashes in on an untimely accident and gets
a second chance at life by taking on her
“Great to be able to partner with ISSADA
and no request or contribution was too much
enabling us to feature ISSADA throughout the
world of AUDREY, “he said.
“ When you make a film you usually age at
least a year but thanks to ISSADA I came out
looking younger!”.
The International Premier of Audrey will
occur at SXSW in Austin, Texas in March.
SXSW is renowned for its mix of films
with a focus on US indie comedy, music,
inclusivity cutting-edge tech, and
future trends. APJ
APJ 47

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
BIGGEST MAKEUP
TRENDS IN 2024
Makeup has an incredible ability to
change your mood, accentuate positive
features, and when applied skillfully, it
can take years off someone’s face. In the
aesthetic world it is a lost opportunity
if salons and clinics do not provide both
products and updates on fashion trends
to inspire and excite their clients. Brands
such as ISSADA are professional brands
that offer skin-friendly makeup solutions
that support your skin treatment results
and also provide an opportunity for
additional revenue.
While most women choose what will
suit them best, a gentle twist in what is
fashion-forward is always a delight and
an incentive to update one’s look or as
a motivator to purchase a new product,
especially at the beginning of a new
season.
From Vogue, here are five of the top
makeup techniques that are trending
in 2024:
Monochromatic makeup
Cohesion and uniformity will level-up
your makeup look and pull it all together.
An easy way to look cool and modern is
to opt for a neutral, monochromatic look.
In the 90s monochromatic looks was
trending and the minimalistic look is back
in vogue. The monochromatic makeup
involves using shades from the same
base colour for a harmonious look. It’s
stunning and easy to do by using a
multi-use creamy peach, or soft tan stick,
for eyes lips and cheeks. You can never
go wrong keeping your look simple and
elegant. Speak to your makeup supplier
for tips on how to achieve this very simple
technique.
This look is very perfect for those who
wish to achieve a health glow.
Kitty liner
On the other end of the spectrum, for
a minimal liner look, try kitty liner - the
baby sis to the cat-eye. This is a less bold
flick that adds volume to the lashes and
elongates the eye without creating a
dramatic eye look. The cat-eye liners that
extend out from the outer corner, but not
as upswept as the wing look.
Ombré lips
APJ 48

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other
Aesthetic Industry information
Ombre lips aren’t new for 2024, but
they’re going nowhere after headlining
2023. The Ombré lip is here to stay as is
continuing to trend in 2024. This lip look
shows a deeper contour and definition
around the edges of the lip, leaving it
lighter in the centre, blending different
shades for a gradient effect. You can
combine a red with a lighter pink in the
centre, or for a more glamorous, petal look
you can combine pink and peach.
I think we will see different intensities of
the ombré lip, depending on the shade
contrast, product textures (whether matte
or glossy), and the choice between a bold,
defined line or a more blended approach.
Blue tones
One shade in particular has been spotlit
by the fashion forecasters who named
blue as the one to watch in their makeup
predictions report for 2024.
Aquamarine makeup is back and bolder
than ever,” they say, predicting that this
year Gen Z and Millennials will find new
ways to incorporate this ‘60s staple into
their modern beauty routines. As for
crunching numbers, searches for “blue
eyeshadow aesthetic” went up by 65% this
year, while “fun blue nails” saw a whopping
260% growth – and “aqua makeup look” is
up 100%.
Glazed blush
We’ve seen glazed skin, we’ve seen glazed
nails, but this year the focus will be on
the glazed blush. We are seeing blushes
become more textured – glossier and
balmier to give a subtle flush and a more
hydrated appearance – perfect for dry
skin that looks tired with a matt finish.
We are seeing lots of layers, such as liquid
highlighters teamed with cream blush.
Cream blush is perfect for creating a
healthy flush and you can easily blend your
blush with your fingers or beauty blender,
they still feel like skin and are buildable to
a personalised intensity. As for placement,
we’ll see more of the doll-like blush on the
apple of the cheeks throughout 2024. APJ
APJ 49

RESEARCH
RESVERATROL
UNVEILED
SKINCARE HYPE OR HERO?
Dr Belal Chami
There isn’t a great deal of research directly comparing oral and
topical formulations of resveratrol for improved skin health. When
it comes to resveratrol (and any other drug for that matter), the
dose and the ‘contact time’ matters. This means that even at the
correct dose, it needs to hang around long enough to have an
effect. This is called a ‘half-life’ – the time it takes for resveratrol
levels to reduce by half.
If there was an award for a skincare ingredient that comes
closest to being the “miracle drug for anti-ageing”, Resveratrol
would undoubtedly win, as it is so much more than just an
antioxidant – this is due to its unique ability to trigger DNA
repair in cells that have accumulated DNA damage with age.
Quality DNA is the cornerstone of optimal cell function, which is
the closest we may get to protecting our cells from the impact of
ageing.
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY
Resveratrol is a naturally occurring antioxidant polyphenol
first identified by the Japanese scientist, Michio Takaoka, who
made this discovery in the roots of the flowery plant, Veratrum
grandiflorum, collected from the Hokkadio Island. Takaoka
published his findings in 1939; however, the article was hidden in
the Japanese scientific crypts, so resveratrol was forgotten - until
2003, when David Sinclair, a junior scientist at the time, discovered
that resveratrol could extend the lifespan of various organisms,
including small rodents, by up to 30%!
Fact: Although resveratrol is also found in red wine, we would need to
consume 40 litres of red wine to obtain a standard 500 mg dose!
HOW DOES IT WORK?
To understand how resveratrol works as an anti-ageing ingredient,
we need to first understand this major principle:
Ageing is quite literally the decline in cell function, which is caused
by damage to one’s DNA. In other words, DNA damage is a major
cause of ageing, and the real fountain of youth is repairing DNA
that has been previously damaged.
THE ROLE OF DERMAL FIBROBLASTS
Accumulated DNA damage in cells is an important cornerstone
of ageing. The way that DNA damage affect the ageing of the
skin is through the impact it has on dermal fibroblasts. As we
know, dermal fibroblasts are the major cell type responsible for
maintaining the skin structure. They are found in abundance
within various layers of the skin, and they are responsible for
making and degrading collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and all
the other skin ‘goodies’ we are familiar with. The role of dermal
fibroblasts is to maintain a delicate balance of both making new
collagen and degrading old collagen in the skin.
WHAT HAPPENS TO DERMAL FIBROBLASTS AS WE AGE AND
ACCUMULATE DNA DAMAGE?
In our youth, our skin contains young fibroblasts that are thin and
slender. These cells move rapidly around our skin and produce
collagen. Much like our energy levels, as we age, these oncespeedy
fibroblasts move around more sluggishly in our skin. The
change in their appearance also is drastic. They change from a thin
and slender appearance to a short and fat one.
APJ 50

itself. Optimal cell function (dermal fibroblasts) can now occur,
and this is critically important when it comes to the appearance of
ageing in the skin.
MORE THAN JUST AN ANTIOXIDANT
Youthful dermal fibroblasts appear slender and are numerous
(left), while aged dermal fibroblasts are more rounded and are less
numerous (right). Blue arrows point to dermal fibroblasts. (https://
www.asbmb.org/asbmb-today/science/012923/old-cells-turn-backthe-clock;
N. schmid et al / Scientific Reports 2019)
This means that aged skin not only contains fewer dermal
fibroblasts, but those aged fibroblasts make less collagen as they
degrade and the collagen they do make is often ‘poor quality’ and
disorganised. So, for the appearance of wrinkles on our skin, you
can thank decreased fibroblast activity.
Thus, if we aim to reduce wrinkles, we need to tackle the source
of the problem – we need to improve the function of fibroblasts as
they age. This means we need to minimise DNA damage and repair
DNA, to support aged fibroblast to improve their potential to
function youthfully.
This is where the potential of resveratrol shines as a naturally
occurring antioxidant with the ability to tackle ageing at its very
core. The latest research shows that resveratrol activates a
protein inside cells which is critical for DNA repair. This protein
is called SIRT1 and it belongs to a wider family of sirtuin proteins.
When SIRT1 is activated, DNA repair is initiated and DNA damage
that has occurred previously now has the opportunity to correct
It is important to understand how resveratrol activates the SIRT1
gene and DNA repair in cells – and, believe it or not, it has very
little to do with the fact that it is an antioxidant. If it were merely
due to it being an antioxidant, we would have also observed similar
anti-ageing effects with much stronger antioxidants including
vitamin E (tocopherol), astaxanthin and even quercetin. However,
we only truly observe anti-ageing effects in terms of DNA repair
mechanism in resveratrol, and this suggests that resveratrol acts
in a unique way.
WHICH FORM OF RESVERATROL IS BEST?
We now understand that ageing is partly due to accumulated DNA
damage and that resveratrol is a naturally occurring antioxidant
which can repair DNA damage via activating the DNA-repair
protein, SIRT1 gene, but how exactly does resveratrol do this?
Some proteins require a ‘key’ to be activated and this is true for
SIRT1. Resveratrol conveniently fits into the binding site of SIRT1,
which then causes SIRT1 to become activated and initiate DNA
repair mechanisms. However, only one form of resveratrol can
truly do this – the trans-resveratrol form. What we now know is
that trans-resveratrol fits into the binding site of the SIRT1 protein
which causes a conformation change of the protein leading to its
activation.
Resveratrol can exist in two states (known as isomers) – trans
and cis and both these forms can occur naturally. Studies show
that trans-resveratrol is predominately found in freshly squeezed
grape juice, while cis-resveratrol is largely found in red wine, likely
as a result of fermentation.
The key difference between the trans and cis resveratrol is the
conformation or shape of the molecule.
APJ 51

So far, we have established that trans-resveratrol is required to
activate SIRT1 (for DNA repair) and it needs to be stablilised in
cyclodextrin-inclusion complexes. But it begs the next question:
what is the best way to take resveratrol for optimal skin health?
ORAL VS TOPICAL – WHICH IS IDEAL FOR THE SKIN?
While trans-resveratrol appears as a linear or ‘straight’ molecule,
cis-resveratrol is almost bent in half.
DOES THE SHAPE OF RESVERATROL MATTER?
Yes - only trans-resveratrol can ‘fit’ into the lock-and-key
mechanism of SIRT1 gene to activate the protein. Cis-resveratrol
is simply the wrong shape to conveniently fit into the SIRT1
binding site and because of this, we do not see the same level of
SIRT1 activation.
CHOOSING SKINCARE WITH RESVERATROL
Now that we have established that trans-resveratrol is the ideal
form for SIRT1 activation, this brings us to our next problem – the
rapid isomerisation of resveratrol in solution (i.e. when formulated
for skincare). When in solution, trans-resveratrol rapidly changes
shapes (or isomerises) to cis-resveratrol – making it less than ideal
for the purpose of DNA repair and thus anti-ageing.
HOW TO KEEP RESVERATROL FROM GETTING
‘BENT OUT OF SHAPE’
Luckily, scientists have developed an answer using sugar groups
called cyclodextrins.
One can think of cyclodextrins as sugar molecules with basketball
hoop or bucket structure. This allows trans-resveratrol to neatly
fit inside the basketball hoop and prevents it from bending into
the cis-resveratrol form. This is termed the cyclodextrin-inclusion
complex which stablishes trans-resveratrol and increases its
bioavailability to the skin, when applied topically.
There isn’t a great deal of research directly comparing oral and
topical formulations of resveratrol for improved skin health. When
it comes to resveratrol (and any other drug for that matter), the
dose and the ‘contact time’ matters. This means that even at the
correct dose, it needs to hang around long enough to have an
effect. This is called a ‘half-life’ – the time it takes for resveratrol
levels to reduce by half.
When taken in oral form, resveratrol is rapidly broken down by the
liver and cleared from the body with a half-life of 2-4 hours and a
bioavailability of less than 1%.
In other words, it doesn’t stay in the blood stream long enough
or at high enough concentration to have a meaningful biological
effect – at least for skin health. Studies on oral resveratrol for skin
health have conflicting outcomes and, in one study, there were no
visual improvements. However, luckily, resveratrol is a fat-loving
molecule which is great for skin penetration. Resveratrol can
easily pass through and accumulate in our skin where it can act
directly on dermal fibroblasts (and other skin cells) for optimal skin
health.
Most studies have used 0.25%-1% of topical resveratrol and
have shown many positive outcomes, including protection from
UV radiation and excessive oxidative stress. Some studies even
suggest topical resveratrol is more effective than oral resveratrol
in preventing acute skin inflammation.
IN SUMMARY
Resveratrol is a potent active ingredient in the fight against
premature ageing and skin health, though sadly it is underutilised
in the skincare world. Rather than merely another antioxidant,
resveratrol acts as a biostimulator within the skin cells to initiate
DNA repair. Healthy cells have healthy DNA and resveratrol has
the ability to help cells repair DNA damage.
Trans-resveratrol is likely the most effective form, although
it requires careful formulation to increase its stability and
bioavailability in a solution.
Based on this research, Re-Dox Skin Lab offers stablised transresveratrol
boosted in the Nourishing Phenolic Day Serum for
fight against pre-mature ageing. APJ
04 66 666 519 | info@redoxskinlab.com | www.redoxskinlab.com
Trans-resveratrol cyclodextrin-inclusion complex
APJ 52

MENTAL HYGIENE
Mastering Progress
& Successful Business
THROUGH COHERENT
COMMUNICATION
In our ever-growing contentious world, the issue of trust for many has become more
and more fragile. Polished scripted presentations are considered ingenuine with their
focus on making the presenter or the company look good and important, while the client
becomes very aware that the pitch to them is for a sale. This approach no longer works.
Life has taught us that the most sincere and effective form of
communication is when we achieve genuine connection with
others when the heart is also engaged. Often the increased
speed of life causes our interactions to lack the heart warmth
of connected communication, also referred to as coherent
communication.
Coherent communication implies genuine listening and
speaking with a tone that reflects care and non-judgement.
Practicing this is effective for transforming many of the
communication distortions that we often experience on
a daily basis. In coherent communication our mind and
emotions are aligned with our heart’s care, which sets the
tone for true connection.
Here are a few exercises to help you master better
connections with others through coherent
communication exercises:
Step 1: Shift into a heart coherent state (a heart-felt, caring
attitude) before sharing and receiving information.
Step 2: Listen for the essence of what is being said,
without prejudging or getting pulled into drama before the
communication is completed.
Speak in a genuine tone and consider what you are going to say
and how it may impact others. Remember to re-center your
heart if you start to overreact or lose emotional composure.
Step 3: It’s effective to reflect (or mirror) the essence of what
you have heard and be open to refinement to confirm mutual
understanding. Rushing communication often causes us to
forget the steps.
Apply this approach any time you are communicating. Embrace
this mindset before meeting with someone, a phone call, or
when giving or receiving instructions make sure that your tone
is dictated from a calm position of the heart and not just the
mind. Shift back to your heart if you become reactive, or if you
become irritated because someone has interrupted you. We
all know how it feels to be on the downside of communications
that are void of care and consideration of whom they are
addressing.
WHY THE CRITICAL NEED FOR PERSONABLE
INTERACTIONS
In our ever-growing contentious world, the issue of trust for
many has become more and more fragile. Polished scripted
presentations are considered ingenuine with their focus on
making the presenter or the company look good or important,
while the client becomes very aware that the pitch to them is
for a sale. This approach no longer works.
While it is important to know your information and to be
able to articulate it confidently and professionally, today’s
consumer needs you to go further – to show a real interest in
getting to know and understand them as a person. They seek
a business approach that is more personable, where they are
approached through a sincere and honest interest and care for
them as the starting point - If this link is missing then trust and
the willingness to engage with you will be compromised.
Understanding and adopting coherent communication can
provide the key to ensure your communication in genuine and
sincere, allowing you to achieve meaningful engagement with
others where trust is built, paving the way for both parties to
achieve their respective objectives. APJ
APJ 53

STAR PERFORMER
Bring your treatment results
to the next level with the
EVE TAYLOR
LONDON 60-MINUTE
ULTRA BRIGHT
TREATMENT
Constantly seeking for leading treatment
solutions, salon and clinic owners today
are in search of innovative treatments
to achieve a higher level of client
satisfaction, while also staying true to
their commitment to natural, cruelty-free
skincare solutions.
The Eve Taylor London 60-Minute Ultra
Bright treatment emerges as a beacon
of rejuvenation offering a transformative
facial experience that not only delivers skin
radiance but is also perfectly aligned with
the growing demand for a holistic approach
to skin repair and rejuvenation.
Powerful Synergistic Formulation
At the heart of the Eve Taylor London
60-Minute Ultra Bright facial treatment
lies a meticulously crafted skincare
regimen designed to revitalise, illuminate,
and rejuvenate the skin within a concise
60-minute session.
Drawing upon Eve Taylor’s renowned
ingredient expertise and time-honoured
formulations, this facial treatment
harnesses the power of natural ingredients
to deliver visible results, leaving your
client’s skin with a luminous complexion
and a renewed sense of confidence.
This facial treatment contains is a multifunctional
powerhouse of synergistic
ingredients, addressing a myriad of
common skin concerns with remarkable
efficacy in improving the skin. Through
a blend of potent botanical extracts,
vitamins, and antioxidants, the Ultra Bright
Facial Treatment works synergistically to
brighten, hydrate, revitalise, and protect
the skin.
Effective treatment protocols
Dynamic Resurfacing Cleanser: First,
it targets areas of pigmentation and
uneven skin tone, promoting a more uniform complexion and restoring a youthful
radiance to the skin. This is achieved through the application of the Dynamic Resurfacing
Cleanser contain key ingredients, such as Lactic Acid for skin exfoliation, Argan Oil rich in
vitamin E and essential fatty acids, Cotton Seed Oil rich in omega-6, as well as Laminaria
Hyproborea (brown seaweed) rich in amino acids and minerals to support skin hydration
and rejuvenation.
Bio Cream Exfoliant: Next, the application of Bio cream Exfoliant infuses the skin with
moisture-binding ingredients, replenishing hydration levels and promoting a supple,
dewy appearance. The Bio Cream Exfoliant has 10% Fruit based Hydroxy Acids (pH3.75)
- dissolving desmosome protein bonds, allowing an even shedding of corneocytes and
stimulating the production of new fresh cells in the basal layer. With its high strength and
low pH, the collective effects of the hydroxy acids allow for maximum resurfacing action
within the exfoliation range while nurturing the skin.
Rejuvenationg Aromatic Serum (No.6): The experience is elevated with Eve’s Lymphatic
Drainage Massage enhanced through the application of Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum
(No.6), a luxurious essential oil blend containing Galbanum, Patchouli and Rosewood
with its repairing and skin rejuvenating action, while also enhancing mood and comfort
especially for menopausal clients.
Pigment Response Serum: This serum is then applied with its anti-inflammatory action
and skin illuminating properties. It contains Hyaluronic Acid Red Algae, Mulberry Extract
(inhibiting tyrosinase enzyme to reducing pigmentation. The addition of vitamin C,
Skullcap extract and Speedwell Herb Extract brightens the complexion.
Brightening Masque: This is a professional peel-off mask packed with natural botanicals
to further inhibit melanocyte activity and skin redness, brightening the complexion.
The treatment is completed with the application of Brightening Serum, Nourishing Eye
Complex, C+Bright Priming Moisturiser wish SPF30.
The Eve Taylor London 60-Minute Ultra Bright Facial is suitable for a wide range of
clients seeking to revive their skin’s natural luminosity. Whether they struggle with dull,
lacklustre skin, uneven tone, dryness, fine lines, or environmental damage, this gentle yet
effective treatment caters to diverse skincare needs, making it a versatile addition to your
professional service menu. No Minimum order - No monthly qualification targets, just
pure, quality products made for passionate practitioners to achieve holistic health for
skin, mind, body and soul. APJ
To introduce the Eve Taylor London renowned skin and body
treatments to your clients to your clients, contact TraceyO and
her team.
1300 383 829 | 0448 390 022 | info@evetaylor.com.au
www.evetaylor.com.au
APJ 54

A 60-YEAR LEGACY
OF TIMELESS
PROFESSIONAL SKIN
& BODY SOLUTIONS
Time-proven formulations that
nurture and rejuvenate, while
enhancing wellbeing.
• NO minimum opening order
• Excellent mark-up and competitive prices
• Sold only through professional outlets
• International standard of Education
and Clincal training
• Exceptional marketing support
• Time-honoured proven-effective
formulations
• Available in over 45 nations
• Comprehensive and specialty ranges
for advances skin treaments, body
care, pregnancy, men’s range, over 150
blended aromatherapy formulations,
individual pure essential oils and
carrier oils.
A Legacy of Unsurpassed Purity for Unbeatable
Skin and Body Results
1300 383 829 | 0448 390 022 | info@evetaylor.com.au | www.evetaylor.com.au
APJ 55

P R O D U C T S
TRENDING
ROCCOCO LAUNCHING THE ULTIMATE
ANTI-AGEING FORMULATION
Lift + Rejuvenate + Tone (LRT) is the latest innovation from Roccoco
Botanicals. It defies gravity and reactivates youth genes with our new
improved formulation. This is our most anti-ageing and lifting cream
yet, with a visible difference in the shape of the face within just 14
days. Rapidly contours and redefines the jawline and neck visibly,
while firming the skin. Utilising the latest skincare technology this
product will firm and uplift the appearance of the skin.
Contact Roccoco Botanicles 07 3807 1429
Jacine.greenwood@roccoco.com | au.roccoco.com
RETINAL RESCULPT EYE TREATMENT
Murad’s new next-gen eye cream features an encapsulated retinal
adapted from technology used in pharmaceutical applications.
With enhanced stability and targeted delivery deep within the
skin’s surface, this potent treatment can create transformative
results, while still being gentle on the delicate eye area: Reduces
deep-set lines/wrinkles, visibly lifts and firms droopy, sagging lids
and folds, and restores elasticity.
Contact details: info_au@murad.com | 1800 687 237
SUPERIOR RESULTS WITH SYNBIOTIC
MOISTURISER
A game changing addition to the Issada Cosmeceutical family, Issada’s
Synbiotic Moisturiser revolutionises the treatment of barrier-impaired
skin, acne and rosacea with its first-to- market unique live probiotic
formula that is setting a new standard in skin repair. With 1.8 million live
probiotics per milligram, this formula reinstates the skin’s microbiome
within 30 minutes of application. Trials are underway, to determine
results to other inflammatory conditions.
Contact Issada Cosmeceuticals Phone: 07 3904 2288
admin@issada.com | https://issada.com
APJ 56

C+BRIGHT PRIMER MOISTURISER SPF 30+
Discover Eve Taylor’s C + Bright Moisturiser SPF30+, a skincare innovation designed to
illuminate and protect. Infused with potent Vitamin C and soothing cucumber extract. It
rejuvenates the skin while shielding against harmful UV rays. This unique formula combines
soothing and hydration actives, while also protecting the skin with an SPF30+, ensuring a
radiant complexion and long-lasting vitality. Embrace the glow with Eve Taylor.
Contact Eve Taylor London 1300 383 892 | info@evetaylor.com.au | www.evetaylor.com.au
NEW MELANOPRO
PEEL SYSTEMS
Melanopro Peel System is a clinical-strength
peel program that delivers visible results
in less than 6 weeks. This transformative
2-phase regimen works to visibly
counteract environmental skin damage –
fading dark spots, reducing the appearance
of hyperpigmentation, and smoothing skin’s
texture to reveal fresh, brighter skin.
Now available to Dermalogica stockists.
Contact 1800 659 118 or go to
pro.dermalogica.com.au
OVERNIGHT RECOVERY MASK
Transforming the skin while you sleep, Roccoco’s Overnight Recovery Mask
activates the skin’s repair mechanisms and reinforces the antioxidant defenses
of the skin. It also balances the circadian rhythm of the skin and protects
the skin against the effects of pollution, normalising the microbiome after
mask wearing and harmonising the skin. Overnight Recovery Mask reduces
irritation, sensitivity and redness as well as oedema and pigmentation,
repairing the skin barrier and offering rapid anti-inflammatory support.
Contact Roccoco Botanicles 07 3807 1429
jacine.greenwood@roccoco.com | au.roccoco.com
APJ 57

AGE RESISTANT ILLUMINATING
SERUM BOTANICAL COMPLEX
Unlock the secret to luminous skin with Eve Taylor London’s
Illuminating Serum. Infused with a harmonious blend of vitamin
C, hyaluronic acid, and botanical extracts like licorice root and
chamomile, this serum revitalises, brightens, and hydrates the
skin, unveiling a radiant complexion. Illuminate your beauty
with this skincare essential.
Contact Eve Taylor London 1300 383 892
info@evetaylor.com.au | www.evetaylor.com.au
DEFEND YOUR SKIN AGAINST
DAILY STRESSORS
Re-Dox Skin Lab Nourishing Phenolic Vitamin C Day Serum,
specially formulated for oily and acne-prone skin, contains 15%
L-ascorbic acid, vanillic acid, and quercetin. This potent blend
fortifies against premature ageing and environmental radicals while
tailored antioxidants combat daily stressors, ensuring skin resilience.
Customise with boosters for personalised skincare. Partner with us
for expert guidance in offering tailored solutions for your clients.
Contact: 0466 666 519
info@redoxskinlab.com | www.redoxskinlab.com
A NOURISING CLEANSER
FOR ALL SKIN TYPES
Discover Re-Dox Skin Lab’s Hydrating Cleanser - a
meticulous formulation designed to safeguard
the skin’s natural barrier while deeply cleansing,
imparting a revitalised, hydrated sensation.
Enriched with Glycerin, Pro-Vitamin B5, and Urea,
it harmoniously combats dryness and irritation,
promoting sustained nourishment, and a radiant,
healthy complexion.
Contact: Re-Dox Skin Lab: 0466 666 519
info@redoxskinlab.com
www.redoxskinlab.com
APJ 58

Renowned as the global authority in
Dermal Needling, Dr Lance Setterfield’s
The Concise Guide to
DERMAL
NEEDLING
Third Medical Edition – Revised and Expanded is considered
the go-to manual for all your questions answered when
treating skin conditions through this modality.
ACCESS UP-TO-DATE INFORMATION ON:
• The science behind the results
• Expectations and outcomes
• Treatment parameters and protocols
• Synergistic treatment modalities
• Cautions and considerations
• Avoiding the inflammatory response
• Products and ingredients to avoid
NEW: PRP/LMW-HA/STEM CELLS/PARABENS
To access a copy of your manual phone 07 5593 0360 or visit:
www.apanetwork.com/resources/the-concise-guide-to-dermal-needling
APJ 59

INGREDIENT SCIENCE
THE ANATOMY OF
Botanical
Cosmeceuticals
Jacine Greenwood
When we think of cosmeceuticals, our minds often gravitate towards cutting-edge
ingredients like peptides, known for their advanced skincare benefits. However,
amidst the modern formulations, there exists a time-tested and holistic approach to
skincare that is deeply rooted in ancient wisdom – Ayurveda.
While peptides have long been associated with innovative
skincare solutions, Ayurveda emerges as a formidable
cosmeceutical powerhouse, offering a rich tapestry of natural
remedies and traditional formulations that have stood the
test of time.
In Ayurvedic medicine, Vayasthapana, or age-defying activity,
refers to ingredients that nourish the skin and support its
optimal functions, while possessing anti-ageing properties.
In this article we will explore the cosmeceutical herbs
of Ayurveda.
The practice of Ayurvedic Cosmeceuticals finds its roots
in the rich tapestry of the Indus Valley Civilisation, where
cosmetics were not merely a means of achieving external
attractiveness but were deeply intertwined with the pursuit
of longevity and good health.
Derived from the Sanskrit words “Aayush” (life) and
“Aarogyam” (health), Ayurveda represents a holistic
approach to wellbeing, encompassing skincare as an integral
component. Ayurveda emphasizes harmony between the
mind, body, and spirit. The integration of herbal extracts and
essential oils not only addresses external beauty, but also
promotes overall well-being. These formulations actively
protect the skin and play a preventive role in
premature ageing.
Let’s explore some of the most common Ayurvedic herbs
that are used in skin rejuvenation.
THE THERAPEUTIC CONSTITUENTS OF CENTELLA
ASIATICA
Centella Asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola, is renowned
for its effectiveness in wound treatment and demonstrates
notable benefits for infected wounds, burns, and postoperative
hypertrophic scars. The crucial triterpene compounds—such as
asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and madecassoside—
act as pivotal elements, driving the wound healing process.
Terpenoids (TTF), which play a vital role by significantly
increasing collagen and cell layer fibronectin levels. This
stimulation leads to scar maturation, reduced inflammatory
reactions, and decreased myofibroblast production.
Studies reveal that wounds treated with C. asiatica and its
components increased total protein, collagen, and peptic
hydroxyproline content. This results in enhanced fibroblast
proliferation, cell migration, and growth factor expression,
along with the stimulation of glycosaminoglycan synthesis,
particularly hyaluronic acid.
APJ 60

epithelisation in various wound models further underscores
its efficacy.
The mechanism of action for asiaticoside involves inducing
type I collagen synthesis and activating the transforming
growth factor-β (TGF-β) receptor I kinase–independent
Smad pathway.
In cosmetology, C. asiatica emerges as a potent antiphotoaging
agent, improving firmness, elasticity, and skin
hydration. A combination of 0.1% madecassoside and 5%
vitamin C demonstrated significant improvements in a clinical
trial, showcasing their synergistic effects.
THE IMPACT ON WOUND HEALING
The ethanolic extract of C. asiatica has demonstrated efficacy
in wound healing, even under dexamethasone suppression.
Noteworthy improvements included increased woundbreaking
strength, accelerated epithelisation, enhanced
wound contraction, and elevated granulation tissue and
hydroxyproline content.
Madecassoside exhibits activity in wound healing of burns,
promoting antioxidative activity, collagen synthesis, and
angiogenesis. The compound’s oral administration facilitated
wound closure and increased fibroblast proliferation,
hydroxyproline levels, and epithelisation in burned skin.
Asiaticoside’s impact on angiogenesis, antioxidative levels,
hydroxyproline, tensile strength, collagen content, and
C. asiatica’s applications extend to cellulite and striae
treatment, addressing metabolic disorders in subcutaneous
adipose tissue. Clinical studies affirmed triterpenes’ influence
on collagen molecule metabolism, tropocollagen and
mucopolysaccharide synthesis, and connective tissue nutrition,
promoting positive effects on tissue health and vascular
stimulation.
SANDALWOOD ALBUM OIL AND PRO-INFLAMMATORY
CYTOKINES
Sandalwood album oil Sandalwood album oil (SAO) has been
utilised topically for centuries in both Ayurvedic and traditional
Chinese medicine. The oil is distilled from the heartwood of
the Santalum album tree and contains over 125 structurally
related compounds.
SAO possesses the ability to hinder the oxidative enzyme
5-lipoxygenase and exhibits DPPH radical scavenging activity.
In vivo studies have demonstrated that the oil, known as
SAO, can safeguard mouse livers from damage caused by
oxidative stress and the generation of reactive oxygen species.
APJ 61

In co-cultures of dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes, the
oil suppresses the production of various pro-inflammatory
chemokines and cytokines triggered by lipopolysaccharide
(LPS) stimulation.
Additionally, the production of PGE2 is inhibited, suggesting
that SAO may act, at least partially, through the inhibition of
cyclooxygenase. Further anti-inflammatory effects on the
skin involve the activation of the enzyme 11b-HSD1, crucial
in cortisol synthesis by keratinocytes. The oil also reduces
the expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1b in
keratinocytes and alleviates irritant dermatitis in mouse skin
induced by haptens.
Recent focus on specific inflammatory targets for treating
skin conditions like psoriasis and atopic dermatitis has led to
the development of drugs targeting IL-17 and PDE4 activity.
SAO has demonstrated the ability to selectively inhibit both of
these targets in various in-vitro models, suggesting a potential
mechanism for its efficacy in clinical studies treating these skin
conditions.
Notably, alpha-santalol, a component of the oil, acts as an
inhibitor of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the biosynthetic
pathway for the skin pigment melanin. This discovery suggests
that SAO could potentially function as an inhibitor of abnormal
pigmentation associated with ageing and exposure to
ultraviolet light.
EMBILICA AND IT ANTI-MELANOGENESIS ACTION
Emblica stands out as a formidable antioxidant, armed with
a rich source of polyphenols, flavonoids, and ascorbic acid
(vitamin C). These compounds play a pivotal role in neutralizing
free radicals that contribute to premature aging and skin
damage. Research studies have demonstrated that emblica’s
antioxidant activity helps protect the skin from oxidative
stress, promoting a youthful and vibrant complexion.
Melanogenesis, the process responsible for skin pigmentation,
is often implicated in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Emblica has been found to possess potent anti-melanogenic
properties, inhibiting the overproduction of melanin. Studies
indicate that emblica can regulate melanin synthesis by
modulating key enzymes involved in the pigmentation
process. Incorporating emblica into skincare formulations
may contribute to a more even skin tone and reduction in
hyperpigmentation.
Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are enzymes that play a role
in collagen degradation, contributing to skin aging and wrinkles.
Emblica has demonstrated inhibitory effects on MMP-2, a
key enzyme involved in collagen breakdown. By preventing
excessive MMP-2 activity, emblica helps maintain the structural
integrity of the skin, promoting firmness and elasticity.
ALOE VERA - PROVIDING POWERFUL
BIOACTIVE COMPONENTS
Aloe Vera, a plant with a cactus-like appearance belonging
to the Asphodelaceae (Liliaceae) family, has a rich history of
traditional medicinal use spanning thousands of years. Its name
is derived from the Arabic word “Alloeh,” signifying a “shining
bitter substance” due to the presence of bitter liquid in its
leaves, and “Vera,” meaning “true” in Latin. Native to regions
such as South Africa, Madagascar, and Arabia, there exist over
300 species of aloe.
The leaves of Aloe Vera yield two primary products: latex, a
bitter yellow liquid beneath the leaf’s epidermis, and gel, a
colorless and tasteless substance found in the inner part of
the leaf. Both latex and gel contain various biologically active
components, including anthraquinones and polysaccharides
(with acemannan being the most active), which may exhibit
individual or synergistic effects.
Aloe Vera gel stands as a key ingredient in numerous skin
lotions, sunscreens, and cosmetics. Its diverse properties
include wound and burn treatment, alleviation of insect
stings and skin inflammation, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic,
antimicrobial, anti-tumor, anti-skin protection, anti-diabetic,
anti-bacterial, and anti-viral effects—crucial elements for
effective wound healing. Moreover, Aloe Vera gel promotes the
activation of new hair growth by enhancing blood circulation to
the scalp and providing essential minerals
and vitamins.
In cosmetology, Centella Asiatica emerges as a potent antiphotoageing
agent, improving firmness, elasticity, and skin
hydration. A combination of 0.1% madecassoside and 5%
vitamin C demonstrated significant improvements in a clinical
trial, showcasing their synergistic effects.
APJ 62

ASHWAGANDHA – INHIBITING INFLAMMATION
Since its origin around 6000 B.C., Withania somnifera (L.)
Dunal (Solanaceae), commonly known as Ashwagandha in
Sanskrit, has been widely utilised in herbal medicine. This
evergreen woody shrub, belonging to the Solanaceae family,
goes by various names with specific meanings, such as “Indian
winter cherry” or “Indian ginseng” in English, and “Punir” or
“Asgandh” in Hindi, with “Asgand” in Urdu. It is also referred
to as Indian ginseng due to its similarities in pharmacological
effects and traditional uses with Korean ginseng tea.
W. somnifera is officially recognised in the Indian
Pharmacopoeia-1985, with its roots being the primary
focus in Unani and Ayurvedic systems of medicine. The
major active ingredients in Ashwaghanda are withaferin-A,
withanolide-D, withanone, withanosides, sitoindosides and
includes various alkaloids, steroidal lactones and saponins.
It reduces inflammation by inhibiting the overexpression
of pro-inflammatory factors such as tumor necrosis factoralpha
(TNF-α) and the synthesis of prostaglandin (PGE2).
Additionally, it hinders the production of cyclooxygenase-2
(COX-2) and nitric oxide by suppressing nitric oxide synthase
(iNOS). It has been used in the treatment of oncology patients
to reduce the skin side effects of radiation treatment.
NEEM’S ANTIBACTRIAL PROPERTIES
Azadirachta indica, commonly known as Neem, is a sizable
tree indigenous to India. It has been traditionally employed for
various purposes, notably in the treatment of skin ailments and
for its herbicidal properties. The utilization of its bark, leaves,
seeds, fruits, and flowers in medicinal practices is widespread,
attributed to the abundance of active secondary metabolites
with significant biological effects. These include limonoids
and tetranortriterpenoids, with azadirachtin being a notable
example.
Methanolic extracts from A. indica leaves inhibit Bacillus, while
oils from seeds, bark, and leaves hindered the growth and
viability of both Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria.
Notably, strains of M. pyogenes, Streptococcus mutans, and
Staphylococcus aureus, commonly found on the skin, are
affected.
A. indica contains nimbolide and nimbidin, exhibiting
antibacterial activity against species such as Staphylococcus
coagulase, S. aureus, Staphylococcus sp., and Serratia. Nimbidin
isolated from bark demonstrated antifungal activity.
Investigation into the two Meliaceae plant species, Azadirachta
indica (Neem, AI) and Azadirachta indica var. siamensis,
showed the categorization of 81 limonoids, 11 flavonoids, and
1 diterpenoid. The study unveiled these compounds’ inhibitory
activity against melanogenesis in B16 cells, outperforming
arbutin.
IN SUMMARY
The realm of cosmeceuticals extends beyond the cutting-edge
ingredients like peptides, delving into the profound wisdom of
Ayurveda. While peptides contribute to innovative skincare,
Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals emerge as a powerhouse rooted
in ancient traditions. The holistic approach of Ayurveda,
emphasizing the harmony of mind, body, and spirit, is evident in
its skincare philosophy.
The exploration of Ayurvedic herbs reveals the potency of
Centella Asiatica in wound healing and anti-photoageing.
Sandalwood album oil showcases its anti-inflammatory and
pigmentation-regulating properties. Emblica stands out as a
formidable antioxidant, offering protection against oxidative
stress and promoting even skin tone. Aloe Vera, with its
diverse properties, serves as a versatile ingredient in skincare
formulations. Ashwagandha, with its anti-inflammatory effects,
finds utility in reducing skin side effects in oncology patients.
Neem, with its antibacterial and antifungal properties, proves
effective in skincare.
As we unravel the rich history and therapeutic potential
of these Ayurvedic herbs, it becomes evident that the
integration of traditional wisdom with modern cosmeceutical
advancements can offer a holistic approach to skincare. APJ
APJ 63

BUSINESS
Ego Versus Values-Centric
MANAGEMENT STYLES
WHAT IS BEST FOR
SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS
Tina Viney
Today’s business world, where authenticity and ethics play a
pivotal role in shaping successful enterprises, aligning your
business with your values is a strategic necessity. In this
article we review the advantage and disadvantages of the
Ego-Centric business approach versus the Values-Centric
approach and how to curate meaningful and responsible
business practices for profitability and sustainable
business growth.
The business world is witnessing a significant shift, where
leaders increasingly recognise the importance of integrating
personal values into their business model. This shift represents
a move from purely profit-driven strategies to a more holistic
approach, where ethical standards, social impact, and personal
fulfillment measure success.
However, in a fiercely competitive world fear of being
overtaken can lead a business owner to be driven by an egocentric
mentality. So, what is the difference and why does it
matter?
This article explores the two dynamics of values versus ego and
how they differ.
What does it mean to be Egocentric in Business?
An egocentric person is a self-focused individual who is
unable to imagine any other perspective other than their
own. The term originated within Piaget’s theory of childhood
development. Egocentrism refers to someone’s inability to
understand that another person’s view or opinion may be
different than their own.
Egocentrism represents a cognitive bias, in that someone
would assume that others share the same perspective as
they do, unable to imagine that other people would have a
perception of their own.
When it comes to business here are a few examples of an
egocentric mindset. Check out if any of these describes your
approach to business:
Comparison: A business owner who is focused on building a
business from their own ego may be overly concerned with
what their competitors are doing, constantly comparing their
business to others and making decisions based on how they
think will make them look better than their competitor, rather
than what is best for their own business.
Status: A business owner who is building their business from a
place of ego may prioritise status symbols, such as have a fancy
office, expensive equipment or luxurious perks,
over making sound business decisions that will help the
company succeed.
Overspending: A business owner who is driven by their ego
may spend money frivolously, such as on flashy marketing
APJ 64

campaigns or expensive business trips, without considering the
impact on the company’s bottom line.
Lack of focus on profitability: A business owner who is
building their business from a place of ego may be more
concerned with how their business appears to others, rather
than focusing on generating profits. This could lead to a lack
of attention or focus on important metrics, such as client
acquisition cost or return of investment and income
versus expenses, which will ultimately harm the company’s
financial health.
Now let’s compare the behaviour of a business owner who
aligns their business strategies with their core values, creating
an enterprise that is not only profitable, but also meaningful
and responsible.
Comparison: A business owner who is focused on their values,
reviews and measures their progress and their success based
on how they can provide better value for the benefit of their
clients. This mindset is more outwardly focused investing
in understanding consumer needs and providing solutions
to solve their problems and concerns. While they do review
their competitors, they are not driven to beat them, rather
they are driven by focusing on improving their relevance and
importance to their clients and what is important to them.
Status: Rather than focusing on profiling their own importance,
the value focused business owner seeks to celebrate their
clients’ appreciation of their services, allowing their clients to
promote how they have made a difference in their lives. Rather
than promoting themselves as the star, they consider the
ultimate complement when others brag about how well they
were treated, respected and had their needs were met through
their services or products.
Overspending: Unlike the ego-centric mindset, a valuesfocused
business owner carefully weights quality over
flashiness and thoughtfully reviews their investment in terms
of the benefit to their clients and their return on investment to
the business.
Lack on focus on profitability: While the ego is enticed by
glamour and ephemeral superficial appearance, those who are
committed to their values, consider a more altruistic approach
of ‘benefit for others’ which is a more sustainable approach for
client loyalty and business profitability. They operate from a
more reliable and stable foundation of consistent growth.
THE IMPORTANCE OF VALUES IN BUSINESS
Incorporating values into business practices is crucial in today’s
economy. A business articulating and adhering to its values
can create a strong brand identity, foster customer loyalty,
and attract and retain motivated employees. This alignment
of values and business practices can also differentiate a
APJ 65

A business owner who is focused on their values,
reviews and measures their progress and their
success based on how they can provide better value
for the benefit of their clients. This mindset is more
outwardly focused investing in understanding
consumer needs and providing solutions to solve
their problems and concerns. While they do review
their competitors, they are not driven to beat them,
rather they are driven by focusing on improving
their relevance and importance to their clients and
what is important to them.
company in a crowded marketplace. For example, consider
how TOMS Shoes built its brand around social responsibility,
offering shoes to an underprivileged child for every pair sold.
This value-driven model not only garnered consumer support
but also created a distinct identity for the brand. Conduct a
“values audit” of your business. Assess your current operations,
marketing, and HR policies to see how they align (or don’t align)
with your identified values.
IDENTIFYING YOUR CORE VALUES
The journey to aligning your business with your values
begins with a clear understanding of those values. Leaders
should use reflective practices to pinpoint the values that
resonate most with them. Typical values include integrity,
innovation, sustainability, and community service. It’s vital to
ensure that these values are more than words; they must
represent genuine beliefs and commitments. Once these
values are identified, they should be articulated in a way that is
understandable and relatable to all stakeholders that relate to
the business.
INTEGRATING VALUES INTO BUSINESS STRATEGY
Integrating values into the business strategy requires a
deliberate approach where every business decision is filtered
through the lens of these values. This integration can manifest
in various forms, such as ethical sourcing of materials,
commitment to fair labour practices, or implementing
environmentally friendly operations. For instance, if a company
values environmental sustainability, it might opt for renewable
energy sources, implement recycling programs, or develop
eco-friendly products. The key is to ensure that these practices
are not just for show but are ingrained in the company’s
operations. Develop a “values integration plan.” Identify areas
of your business operations where your values can be more
deeply integrated, such as your supply chain, customer service,
or employee benefits.
In terms of our industry, this could include recyclable
containers, a focus on health-based solutions, air-purity,
nutrition based ingredients, the use of natural fibres and
a limit on plastics and disposable wastes that pollute the
environment.
BUILDING A VALUES-BASED CULTURE
Creating a company culture that embodies your values is
essential. This involves developing a work environment where
employees feel connected to the values and are motivated
to act in ways that uphold them. Leaders should model these
values in their own behaviour, decisions, and communication.
Moreover, hiring practices should focus on finding individuals
whose personal values align with the company’s. Regular
training and team-building activities can help reinforce these
values and ensure they are understood and embraced by all
team members. Introduce a “value of the month” program.
Each month, focus on one of your core values. Encourage
employees to demonstrate this value in their work and
recognise those who do it well. This will contribute to a
positive work environment that values others and operates by
this motto ensuring the welfare of others consistently.
Communicating your values
Communication plays a critical role in aligning your business
with your values. This involves stating your values and
APJ 66

demonstrating them through your actions and decisions.
Effective communication strategies include sharing stories
that illustrate your values in action, regularly revisiting these
values in internal and external communications, and ensuring
that your marketing and branding efforts reflect these values.
Transparent and consistent communication about your values
helps build trust and authenticity with your stakeholders.
Create value-driven stories for your brand. Share these stories
on your website and social media, showing real-life examples of
your values in action, such as community service initiatives or
sustainable practices.
THE CHALLENGES OF LEADING WITH PURPOSE
Leading a business with a purpose-driven approach is not
without its challenges. There may be times when adhering to
your values could impact short-term profitability. For example,
maintaining high ethical standards in sourcing high quality
products may increase costs. Another poignant example
for APAN is the decision to conduct a two-day Conference
program instead of a one-day event. Despite that the fact
that a one day is more profitable, industry feedback clearly
indicated that two days provided much greater value both
for delegates and our exhibitors. While costs doubled, we did
not double the fees. We took this option as our value-focused
approach compelled to prioritise what would benefit our
community the most.
Leaders must be prepared to make difficult decisions
that uphold their values, even when they might seem
counterintuitive from a purely financial perspective. Prepare
a decision-making framework based on your values. This will
guide you in making tough choices, ensuring consistency with
your values even when faced with difficult business decisions.
MEASURING THE IMPACT OF VALUES-BASED LEADERSHIP
Traditional business metrics like profit and growth are
important, but when leading with purpose, measuring the
impact of your values-based approach is essential. This can
include assessing employee engagement and satisfaction,
customer loyalty, and your business practices’ social and
environmental impact. These metrics can provide a more
comprehensive view of your business’s success and influence.
Implement regular surveys and feedback mechanisms to gauge
your values’ internal and external impact. This could include
employee satisfaction surveys, customer feedback forms, and
community impact assessments.
IN CONCLUSION
Aligning your business with your values is a journey that
requires commitment, reflection, and adaptability. It’s about
creating a legacy that transcends profits, building a business
that succeeds financially and contributes positively to society.
By embracing this approach, business leaders can create
enterprises that are not only profitable and successful but
also meaningful and responsible. Regularly revisit and revise
your values alignment strategy. The business environment
is dynamic, so periodically reviewing and adjusting your
approach is essential to maintain alignment with your
core values.
APJ 67

EDUCATION
THE LAUNCH OF
MEMBERSHIP-BASED
LEARNING
An Interview with GAY WARDLE
A lady that it passionate and totally dedicated to education,
GAY WARDLE needs no introduction to the beauty and
aesthetics industry. For over two decades she not only
expanded her own education to tertiary level and on-going
professional development, her ceaseless devotion to sharing
her knowledge has established her a leading educational
voice within the industry.
Mindful of busy business owners and practitioners, she
recently launched a new educational platform that is
accessible through a Membership model, allowing members
to experience professional development at their convenience
and on an ongoing based as the need arises. In this interview
APJ Q1: Gay, there are so many changes this year and
the industry is becoming more competitive. The need for
businesses to step-up their knowledge has never been more
important. What areas have you identified that practitioners
and business owners can improve on for better skin
treatment results and a stronger financial future in 2024?
The aesthetic skincare industry continues to evolve rapidly,
presenting both challenges and opportunities for practitioners
and business owners. To stay ahead and ensure better
treatment results and a stronger financial future, there are
eight key areas that business owners can focus on improving.
• Advanced Education and Training: With advances in
technology and treatment modalities, continuous
education is crucial. Invest in advanced training
programs, workshops and seminars to stay updated
on the latest techniques, products and equipment
is imperative.
• Specialisation and Niche Development: Identify specific
areas of expertise or niche markets within the industry
and specialise in niche treatments such as, advanced
anti-ageing procedures, ethnic skincare, or medical
grade facials can help differentiate your business attract
loyal clientele.
• Integration of Technology: Embrace innovative
technologies, such as laser devices, radiofrequency
and advance skincare products backed by scientific
research. Incorporating digital tools for client
management, appointment scheduling, and online
consultations can also enhance efficiency and
client experience.
• Holistic Wellness Approach: Recognise the
interconnectedness of skin health with overall wellness.
Expand services to include complementary treatments
like nutrition counselling, stress management techniques
and holistic skincare products to address internal and
external factors affecting skin health.
• Quality Assurance and Compliance: Prioritise
adherence to industry regulations, safety standards,
and best practices to ensure client safety and
satisfaction. Regularly review and update your protocols
for sanitation, sterilisation and treatment procedure to
maintain a high standard of care.
• Networking and Collaboration: Foster partnerships
and collaborations with other professionals in the
industry, such as dermatologists, plastic surgeons
and nutritionists. Networking opportunities can lead to
referrals, cross-promotion and access to new resources
and knowledge.
APJ 68

• Financial Management and Diversification: Implement
sound financial management practices, including
budgeting, cost control and revenue diversification.
Explore additional revenue streams such as online sales
or offer membership programs.
• Client Education and Engagement: Empower clients
with knowledge about proper skincare routines,
ingredients and maintenance tips. Offer educational
workshops, skincare seminars and online resources to
engage clients and build trust, leading to increased client
retention and referrals.
I feel these are just some areas where therapists and
business owners can elevate the quality of skin treatments,
enhance client satisfaction, and position themselves for longterm
success in the competitive landscape of the skin care
and beauty industry.
APJ Q2: Recently you introduced an exciting Membership
Program exclusively dedication to Education what prompted
you to do this?
As an established educator and expert in the industry, I’ve built
trust and credibility among peers and followers. Launching
a Membership Program exclusively dedicated to education
allows me to leverage this trust and provide valuable, vetted
content to members. The Membership Program enables me to
offer a curated learning experience tailored to the needs and
interests of the members. This personalised approach ensures
that members receive content that is relevant, engaging,
and beneficial for their professional growth. The skincare
industry is constantly evolving with new advancements,
research findings, and consumer preferences. By launching
a Membership Program dedicated to education, I’m able
to adapt to these changes quickly and efficiently, ensuring
that members stay informed and empowered. The decision
to introduce a Membership Program exclusively dedicated
to education stems from a combination of market demand,
professional passion, and a commitment to delivering highquality,
reliable education in the dynamic field of aesthetic skin
care.
APJ3: What is included in the program and how does it
benefit members?
Education thrives in a collaborative environment where
learners can interact, share experiences, and support each
other. The Membership Program fosters a sense of community
among members, creating opportunities for networking,
mentorship, and peer learning. Each month, we explore a new
theme crucial to the members professional development, from
mastering consultations to the latest in skin science. There will
be access to specialised content, including monthly video talks,
guest speaker insights, templates, and practical strategies and
the ability to connect with a welcoming group of professionals
who share the same passion and commitment to growth. It will
allow you to stay at the forefront of the industry with access
to cutting-edge resources and information. The community
will be your safe space to grow, share, and succeed in our
profession together.
APJ4: Who is this program suitable for and what level of
education does it offer?
The program offers education at various levels to cater to the
diverse needs and skill levels of its members:
Beginners-level, or those new to the aesthetic skincare field,
Each month we explore a
new theme, crutial to the
members’ professional
development, from
mastering consultations to
the latest in skin science.
the program provides foundational knowledge on
basic skincare principles, anatomy, physiology, and
sanitation practices.
Intermediate level education covers topics such as
advanced treatment modalities, skincare ingredients, client
consultations, and business fundamentals.
Advanced-level education delves into specialised treatments,
cutting-edge technologies, evidence-based practices, and
advanced business strategies tailored to experienced
professionals looking to elevate their practice.
The program offers ongoing learning opportunities to help
members stay updated with the latest industry trends, and
research findings. Members can choose specialised tracks
based on their areas of interest or expertise, such as antiageing
treatments, acne management, ethnic skincare, or
holistic wellness, allowing for targeted education and
skill development.
Overall, the program is designed to accommodate individuals
at every stage of their professional journey in the aesthetic
skincare field, offering a comprehensive curriculum that
fosters continuous learning and growth.
APJ5: We understand that this program is specifically
designed for the busy practitioner and/or business owner,
how much time does one need to dedicate to complete the
various units?
The program is specifically designed to accommodate busy
practitioners and business owners, offering flexibility in
learning and pacing. The self-paced nature of the program
allows individuals to tailor their learning experience to fit
their schedule and commitments. Members can allocate
time for studying, completing assignments, and participating
in discussions based on their availability. Additionally,
supplementary resources such as recorded lectures, reading
materials, and online forums can enhance understanding and
provide flexibility in learning. Overall, the program aims to
provide a comprehensive yet manageable learning experience
for busy practitioners and business owners in the aesthetic
skincare field. APJ
For further information and to contact Gay Wardle please
visit https://gwsi.com.au/
APJ 69

SKIN TREATMENTS
DERMAL NEEDLING
HOW TO ACHIEVE EXCEPTIONAL
BENEFITS AND AVOID REACTIONS
Tina Viney
Question on the consultation form should request enough information to
provide a clear picture to assess health and suitability for the treatment.
Questions should cover medical, cardiac, skin, hormones, lifestyle and
medication/supplements. APAN’s Dermal Needling Consultation form
contains a list of 46 areas you will need to review. As procedures are now
delivered to provide more advanced results, the potential risks of reactions
are also higher, this is why the old consultation forms that asked 6 to 10
questions on the above will most certainly miss important information.
The rise in litigation cases impacting our industry have
increased significantly over the past five years. I am aware
of this as I am regularly accessed by law firms to assist them
in determining whether the practitioner was negligent in
adhering with industry standards or regulatory compliance.
What is interesting is that most of the cases where injury
had occurred are often due to the practitioner not capturing
sufficient information about their client through an outdated
consultation form. Many of the consultation forms that I have
viewed (even when they have originated from high reputable
companies and even large franchises), are highly deficient in
their design. When a practitioner is provided with minimal
information about the overall health status of the individual,
lifestyle habits, sensitivities and medication they are taking
which could point to the necessity of precautionary measures
on potential contraindications, this can contribute to reactions
that could have been avoided.
Additionally, I am finding that the treatment record-cards
often include sufficient information on settings, or are not
being updated at all at each client visit. This lowering of
standards often leads to errors in setting, or in determining the
appropriate treatment parameters for the safe delivery of a
treatment.
Each modality has its specific needs. In this article I will review
safety measure for dermal needling that will also optimise your
results.
THE CONSULTATION PROCESS AND TREATMENT
RECORDS
Everything starts with a consultation process. When this is
performed correctly, it will provide you with a safe roadmap to
achieve safe and efficacious results.
The consultation procedure must be completed by the
treatment technician as well as the patient. This should
APJ 70

include a standard face diagram upon which to note any facial
anomalies or lesions, scars, wrinkles, etc. The consultation
should also provide concise medical history needed to identify
contraindications to the dermal needling procedure, as well
as diagnostic history used to establish the cause of the skin
condition being presented for treatment. The consultation also
provides a baseline reference point for later developments,
and a means by which to measure patient progress. As such,
photographs are vital for recording the skin’s initial condition,
and to observe changes in the skin tone, resilience and colour.
The consultation also establishes reasonable expectations of
how the patient and technician will perceive the end results.
In addition to the consultation, a patient progress report
should be maintained to register needle size, anaesthetics
used, the skin’s initial response to the treatment, and
the technician’s comments on how the skin responded
progressively to the subsequent treatments. Do not forget to
ensure the Informed Consent disclaimer signed as well, either
included within the Consultation Form or as an additional
document. This isvery important.
The treatment should be accompanied with a post-treatment
care protocol sheet, and this, at minimum should contain daily
care and product application method of creams and serums.
This document should also provide information of what to
expect during the first five days following the treatment with
some points on the importance of hygiene procedures after
treatment to prevent the risk of infection.
It is very important that you stress to your client or pateint
that adhering to these requirements is critical to both the
success of their treatment as well as the prevention of
adverse reactions.
The questions on the consultation form should request
enough information to provide a clear picture to assess health
considerations and suitability for the treatment. Questions
should cover medical conditions, cardiac health, hormonal
and stress levels, lifestyle, diet and medication including
supplements.
APAN’s Dermal Needling Consultation form contains a list
of 46 areas you will need to review. As procedures are now
delivered to provide more advanced results, the potential risks
of reactions are also higher. This is why the old consultation
forms that asked 6 to 10 questions on the above will most
certainly miss important information. You can access this
document under resources on our website.
CONTRA-INDICATION AND SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS
There is a misconception that dermal needling is suitable
for everyone and there are no contra-indications. While it is
true that you can treat almost any skin type and condition,
it depends on the severity of the condition and the level of
irritation. Unless you have undergone advanced training,
needling should be contra-indicated on infected skin, fungal
skin infections, active acne, active rosacea, eczema and
psoriasis, severe solar keratosis, skin cancer, raised moles and/
or warts, and /or open wounds and sores. For these conditions,
additional training is needed.
APJ 71

Allergies, Asthma and Hay Fever
Any patient, but especially those with a history of allergies, may
be prone to urticaria (hives) after needling, due to the release
of histamines. Intensive needling of abdomen and thighs with
too many passes or pressure, may result in severe itching or
even a burning sensation that may last for days. This is not an
indication of anything sinister but will alarm the patient if not
mentioned prior to treatment. It can also be confused with
a retinoid reaction. Therefore, when needling body areas,
proceed cautiously with minimal pressure. This reaction
often becomes less with subsequent treatments. Prior to the
treatment, a long-acting antihistamine may be appropriate.
Rosacea
It is safe to medical needle ‘vascular’ conditions such as
rosacea, but not pustular or nodular rosacea. Wait until the
inflammation has settled. However, for other areas such as,
peri-orbital lines that are outside the inflamed zone, there is no
need to delay treatment. Again, its about having appropriate
training.
Anticoagulated Patients
Patients on Coumadin and other anticoagulants may present a
challenge and the risks need to be balanced with their benefits.
It is difficult to justify discontinuing treatment for potential
life-threatening conditions in order to perform a cosmetic
treatment. The key is to procede with caution. Other drugs/
supplements to consider include Ibuprofen, NSAID’s, vitamin E,
omega 3, gingko biloba, garlic, ginseng, dong quai and feverfew,
as they may contribute to bruising or prolonged bleeding.
Drug and Supplement Associated with Photosensitivity
While needling is reported as not being associated with
increased photosensitivity, hyperpigmentation is one of the
hardest things to treat, so it is prudent to limit factors within
our control to optimise results.
A few of the common drugs and supplements that
cause photosensitivity include antibiotics (sulpha,
tetracycline), antihistamines (Benadryle, Hismanal, Claritin,
Atarax, Phenergan, Seldane), diuretics (Lasix, HCTZ),
antihypertensives (Vasotec, Altace, Cardizem, Hyzaar), anticholesterol
agents (Mevacor, Zocor, Pravachol), fluorouracil (5-
FU), methotrexate, NSAID’s Accutane, Tretinoin, Gabapentin,
benzyl peroxide, St John’s Wart and Dong Quai.
Considerations with Fitzpatrick III and Above
Bruising is not that evident in darker skin types IV - V. The
skin will appear puffy and bruising might only be visible in
thin-skinned areas, such as around the eyes. Protect skin from
exposure to sunlight and if necessary, use a zinc oxide paste
to ensure ultra-violet light protection. It is important to warn
patients with darker skin that the erythema associated with
needling, or high doses of vitamin A, when super-exposed on
brown skin, appears much darker. Patients with melasma or
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation need to understand
that lesions will appear darker for several months.
IN CONCLUSION
As with every procedure, staying up to date with new
educational advances is vitally important, when stepping up
your treatment results to a new level, or as you move to treat
more challenging skin conditions.
When it comes to dermal needling, I highly recommend Dr
Lance Setterfield’s manual – The Concise Guide to Dermal
Needling – Revised and Expanded Medical Edition. This
document is considered the industry’s most up-to-date and
comprehensive instruction manual when it comes to protocols
relating to dermal needling, including specific protocols for
product application, pre, during and post dermal needling,
as well as guidelines for treating various skin condition. This
article is based on the principles presented in this manual. APJ
You can access your copy from our website www.apanetwork.
com link https://apanetwork.com/resources/the-conciseguide-to-dermal-needling
Additionally, you can also check out our Resource Documents
to access the updated Dermal Needling Consultation Form
and Consent form. You can purchase these individually for
$66 or as a kit for the discount price of $110. Here is the link
https://app.apanetwork.com/resource-documents.
APJ 72

SOCIAL MEDIA
FACELESS REELS
The NEW Social Media Trend
How to be a dynamic content creator without showing your face
Trish Hammond – TRUCE MEDIA
You may have noticed on your Instagram feed the growing
number of people who are creating engaging content without
showing their face. It’s a growing trend, and if you’re one of
those people who struggles to be in front of a camera - this
could be the perfect opportunity and solution for you.
Creating effective Faceless Reels for your aesthetic business
involves a blend of technical expertise, creative storytelling,
and an understanding of your audience.
Here’s a practical guide on how to craft compelling Faceless
Reels and why they resonate with those of us that might not
want to show our face over our social media:
Focus on Visual Storytelling:
The success of Faceless Reels is in the ability to tell a
captivating story without relying on facial expressions. You
have to use visually appealing imagery, the right camera angles,
and a little bit of editing to convey your message.
Highlight Procedures and Results:
Showcase various cosmetic procedures, treatments, and
their transformative effects through close-up shots, product
demos, and ‘before-and-after’ comparisons. You can highlight
the details of each procedure and still maintain a sense of
professionalism and artistry.
Incorporate some trending audio:
The jury seems to be out on whether to use trending audio
(some say yes, some say no), I’m a big YES! In my opinion, it is
worth finding. If that’s too hard, just be sure to select some
background music or sound effect that evokes an emotion
or makes you feel something or has a rhythm or beat that
is motivating or basically just adds depth to the story (your
storytelling). You know that feeling that you get when a certain
song, tune, beat resonates with you? That’s what you want!
Utilise Text and Graphics:
Use text overlays, captions, and graphics to provide context,
explain procedures, and highlight key points. Use clear and
concise language that resonates with your audience and
compliments the visual elements of your Reel.
Keep it Concise and Engaging:
Faceless Reels should be brief but have impact. They need to
capture the viewers’ attention within the first few seconds, and
then maintain that interest until the end. You can go anytime
from 5 seconds and above, although a good time to aim for
when starting out is 15-30 seconds and try to get that optimal
engagement across your digital platforms.
Showcase Client Experiences:
Featuring real-life experiences from satisfied clients builds
trust and credibility. You can incorporate user-generated
content such as before-and-after photos and videos, to
demonstrate the experience and results of your
aesthetic procedures. APJ
Be Reel, Be Authentic, Be You
If you’d like a free copy of my eBook on Faceless Reels,
Instagram Faceless Reel Ideas, and Instagram Content Pillars
send me an email to trish@trucemedia.com.au with the
subject “I’d love the Faceless Reels eBook”.
APJ 73

COSMETIC MEDICINE
LIP FILLER
MIGRATIONS
TIPS ON HOW TO
AVOID THEM
Dr Giulia D’Anna
Knowing when to dissolve before enhancement is also key.
If there is already a filler that has shifted to an area that is not desirable, further
filling will not rectify the problem. You need to be strong, explain your diagnosis,
and how to remedy the appearance of the features that are not right. Filling over
existing poor filler will simply lead to a poor outcome.
In today’s world, it’s no surprise that more and more people
are opting for cosmetic enhancements without facing any
judgment. In fact, 2023 has seen a surge in openly chosen
procedures to enhance appearances, leading to a broader array
of minimally and non-invasive treatments. We will see what
2024 will bring, as there is so many changes in the cosmetic
dental and aesthetic skin industry right now.
COMPLICATIONS
Among the popular choices
is the trend of getting lip
fillers, a non-surgical cosmetic
procedure that works wonders
in restoring volume and
proportion, resulting in a more
youthful look.
However, it’s important to
note that in the hands of
under-trained practitioners,
lip filler injections might not
always provide the desired
results. Sometimes, the
fillers can move or spread to
different areas of the lips,
which, while not harmful,
isn’t the outcome people are
looking for after investing in
lip fillers.
If you are wondering if there’s
anything you can do to avoid
or rectify such a situation –
there is.
Let’s dive into the details in
the article below:
UNDERSTANDING LIP FILLER MIGRATION
Lip fillers, the dermal fillers responsible for plumper lips and
a visible pout, can occasionally “migrate” to areas different
from the original injection site. Some practitioners also call
filler Migration, filler Redistribution - which is true to what is
actually happening.
WHY DOES IT HAPPEN?
A well-trained injector who employs the correct techniques
is the first step in minimising filler migration. Excessive filler
can lead to “bleeding” to other facial areas, typically the white
part of the upper lip. It’s crucial for the patient to trust their
injector’s judgment regarding the amount of filler needed.
Overfilling a particular area may prompt the body to naturally
readjust to ease tension.
Getting too much filler too frequently can also contribute
to migration. While maintaining treatments is essential for
optimal results, injections should be scheduled appropriately
and spaced over a reasonable amount of time. Additionally,
touching or massaging the injected areas post-treatment can
cause the filler to move and is also unhygienic due to the small
wounds created during the injection.
IDENTIFYING LIP FILL MOVEMENT
Mild swelling immediately after injection is normal, making it
unlikely for lip filler to move within a couple of hours. Migrated
fillers become more noticeable in the months following the
injections. Unnatural fullness, a mound or bump above the lip
border, “duck lips,” lumps along the lip borders, and changes in lip
texture are signs that the filler may have moved.
FIXING FILLER MIGRATION
If you suspect filler migration or a botched procedure, seek
assistance from a highly-trained professional promptly,
especially if you experience discomfort, intense pain,
APJ 74

discoloration, swelling, or blisters on your lips. In some cases,
the body naturally breaks down hyaluronic acid dermal fillers
over time. However, if waiting isn’t an option, a professional
can use hyaluronidase to dissolve the filler, accelerating the
body’s dissolving process.
Expect some injection-related reactions if you choose
hyaluronidase treatment, such as redness, swelling, or bruising.
If these persist, consult your healthcare practitioner for a
comprehensive treatment plan.
PREVENTING FILLER MIGRATION AND OTHER
COMPLICATIONS
While uncommon, undesirable results are disheartening.
Take note of the following to minimise the risk:
1. Choose an Experienced Injector
When perfecting your technique choose to train with a
qualified injector with deep knowledge of facial anatomy and
injection techniques. As a practitioner, it is important that you
inject with precision, and reduce the amount of filler you are
using. In some cases, this will mean not injecting at all if your
patient already has lips of good proportion.
Knowing when to dissolve before enhancement is also key.
If there is already a filler that has shifted to an area that is
not desirable, further filling will not rectify the problem. You
need to be strong, explain your diagnosis, and how to remedy
the appearance of the features that are not right. Filling over
existing poor filler, will simply lead to a poor outcome.
Dermal Distinction academy has seen this gap in injector
knowledge. We do offer a filler dissolving course so that you
know how to look after your patient when overfilling has
occurred, or if there is an emergency event. More details later.
2. Choose the Right Filler
Not all fillers are suitable for all areas; trust your trainer’s
recommendation for the right filler. From a practitioner point
of view, using a filler with dynamic properties would be a good
decision, as lips are highly dynamic, and we need to ensure that
we follow the laws of physiology.
Aside from this, as an injector, you need to ensure that you do
not overfill the lips or any other area of the face. Overfilling
will always inevitably lead to filler re-distribution or the skin
looking distorted. It is much better as an injector to inject
small increments over more than one visit. This allows you
to assess progress, and importantly allows your patient time
to become accustomed to their new look. Once they see the
enhancement, they will often be balanced by the feelings of
their friends and family, and not seek out further treatment
where it is not needed.
3. Follow Post-injection Instructions
As a practitioner, it is important that your patient adheres
to aftercare instructions diligently to minimise swelling and
bruising. Instructions to your patient should include:
1. Avoid touching their face post-procedure to prevent
complications. From a practitioner point of view, this
means that we need to ensure our patient understands
what to do after filler, but also what not to do too. I
would recommend:
2. Do not ask your patient to ice their lips.
3. Do not ask your patient to massage their lips.
4. Ask your patient to return one week after treatment
so that you can review their lips and massage the result
if needed.
It is also a mandatory requirement that you provide your
patient with an implant card post-procedure. The card
will contain information such as:
a. The patient’s name and date of treatment
b. Your name and after-hours phone number. If the
patient experiences a complication, you must
provide the first stage of care.
c. The filler you have used, so that you or your
emergency support team is able to understand
and deal with complications. Unfortunately, in the
past, patients were not provided with Implant Card
Information that they could present to an
emergency department in general hospitals. Details
about the treatment undertaken were not provided.
This may have been due to distress or simply
because they were not told what filler was used
and the patient was unable to provide the
information to the emergency care team. As a
result of this poor level of communication was
poor patient outcome, As a result, in 2021 it became
a mandatory requirement to provide these details to
eliminate poor aftercare of patients
IN CONCLUSION
Ensuring a positive outcome starts with careful planning and
professional experience, as well as prioritising the safety of
your client and ensuring their satisfaction.
If you would like to learn about dissolving fillers, Dermal
Distinction Academy provide training to help you look after
your patient. APJ
www.dermaldistinction.com | 03 9859 7859.
APJ 75

BUSINESS
TRUST:
THE FORGOTTEN PART OF
PATIENT CONSULTATIONS
Neil Osborne
Clinic growth expert, Neil Osborne, explains
how deeper consultations unlock a greater
level of trust between yourself and your
patients, and is crucial to the acceptance of
treatment recommendations.
As a practitioner, when you begin a consultation, you’re silently
agreeing to protect the information shared by your patient,
and the hopes and desires for the treatment’s outcome. It’s an
unspoken code of honor held between two parties. In sharing
that level of personal information, under those terms, your
patient is extending a level of trust to you. Your reputation
rests on honoring that agreement, and protecting the
relationship is a sacred duty.
However, for patients and clients, the complex emotions
behind eventually agreeing to the treatment are challenging.
Yes, there’s a rational aspect to the choice, but people make
decisions with their heart not their head. So, consider this:
“Have you really understood the deeper feelings behind why
your patient wants the treatment you’re discussing? Have you
dug deep enough to fulfil their dreams of how they’ll look, feel
and the way people will see them?”
To fulfil those desires, your consultations need to ask and listen
more deeply to what your patient’s emotional mind is feeling
and saying, instead of just talking at the rational mind.
THE TRUST DRIVER
Trust is the foundation of every long-term partnership. It
engenders loyalty, encourages your patients to turn to you
for solutions again and again, and drives recommendations
for your practice. By building a foundation of trust with them,
you’re forming the basis for delivering a remarkable customer
experience (CX) – one that sustains profitable revenue growth
for your practice.
Clients share more if they trust you. That is, they know you
understand their wishes, and over time that creates deeper,
more meaningful, personalised and valued experiences
for them.
How do you go about framing a deeper consultation that
builds that level of trust? In his book, “Humble Inquiry: The
Gentle Art of Asking Instead of Telling”, author Edgar H. Schein
APJ 76

characterises a humble inquiry as “the fine art of drawing
someone out, by asking questions.” Asking small questions of
your clients, helps to overcome any inbuilt roadblocks around
commitments, and it helps you master the gentle art of deeper,
more persuasive consultations, that are comprised of three
things – asking, listening and feeling.
CONSULTATION TYPE: PROBLEM, EDUCATE, SOLUTION
The troubling news is that if your consultation approach
follows a pattern of “problem, educate, solution” you’re
generally talking at the rational mind. With this approach, you
won’t always find out what’s emotionally nudging your client
towards a decision, nor does it allow you to ‘feel’ the things
they are feeling. As an example, many consultations currently
take this approach (an abridged version of a consultation):
[Practitioner] “Hi Jenny, how can I help you today?”
[Jenny] “Well, I noticed my skin is getting very patchy. I’m
seeing darker spots, and they appear to be getting larger… and
more of them.”
[Practitioner] “Yes, I can see them. They’re what is called
hyperpigmentation – they come about from too much sun
exposure over the years. They’re also often called ‘age spots’,
which are caused by overactive pigment cells. Ultraviolet light
speeds up the production of melanin, a natural pigment that
gives skin its colour. On skin that’s had years of sun exposure,
age spots appear when melanin becomes clumped or is
produced in high concentrations.”
[Jenny] “So I have age spots?”
[Practitioner] “Well yes.”
[Jenny] “What can you do to fix them?”
[Practitioner] “There are a couple of options…”
The consultation then quickly moves into discussing the
treatment options.
This is a classic problem, educate, solution consultation,
designed to identify the client’s issue (problem), which is then
described back to them (educate), and quickly moves into
discussing treatment options (solution) with the associated
pros and cons.
While this style of consultation can be effective, it’s
primarily talking at the rational mind – which needs facts and
information to assess and decide. That’s the exact reason why
this style of consultation works only some of the time.
CONSULTATION TYPE: ASK, LISTEN, FEEL
The aesthetic industry is an emotional business. So, approaches
grounded in emotion, empathy and trust are more valuable and
deliver a remarkable CX to clients. In a deeper consultation,
you’re speaking to the emotional mind, where there’s a lot of
room for exploration. How a client feels about their condition
or situation has a huge bearing on the outcome – not only
whether they agree to the treatment, but also on how much
they’re prepared to spend.
To conduct a deeper consultation, explore the emotional side
of your patients’ thinking and ask exploratory questions. To
do this you’ll need to make some slight adjustments to your
consultation style and approach. The general guidelines to
follow are to respond slightly differently and explore each
‘problem’ a client or patient presents to you:
[Practitioner] “Hi Jenny, how can I help you today?”
[Jenny] “Well, I noticed my skin is getting very patchy. I’m
seeing darker spots, and they appear to be getting larger … and
more of them.”
[Practitioner] “Okay Jenny, can you tell me a little bit more
about that?”
[Jenny] “Well as the years go by, my skin seems to get more
uneven, spottier, and the spots are getting darker.”
[Practitioner] “When did they first become noticeable to you?”
[Jenny] “Over the past five years in particular they have really
started to stand out more.”
[Practitioner] “Okay. So, Jenny, may I ask what’s brought you
here today – I mean why has this become a problem now?”
[Jenny] “I saw a photo of myself with my kids around the pool,
and I looked like a spotty tiger. I thought the time has come to
get this sorted. My son’s getting married in six months, and I
really don’t want to look spotty in his wedding photos.”
[Practitioner] “Great. Jenny let’s have a chat about what
some of your options are…”
The consultation then moves to discussing the
treatment options.
While this is an abridged, shortened version of a deeper
consultation, you may notice it adopts and applies the Principle
of Three. For every condition or problem that a patient
presents, explore their feelings by asking three open-ended
questions, to gather more information. Your goal is to listen
Have you really understood the deeper feelings
behind why your patient wants the treatment
you’re discussing? Have you dug deep enough
to fulfil their dreams of how they’ll look, feel
and the way people will see them?
APJ 77

However, building trust takes time, commitment, effort,
and consistency in your consultative approach. But
without that effort, the flipside isn’t great. As the famous
quote from M.J. Arlidge highlights,
“Trust is fragile thing –
hard to earn, easy to lose.”
for the emotional reasons that are being shared, feel what
your patient is feeling, and then speak to those during your
diagnosis and treatment recommendations.
Another way of shaping the trust pact, actions and feelings
within your consultation is:
• Trust is built by truly listening.
• Trust is built by being proactive and sympathetic in
words and actions.
• Trust is built by showing that you really know
one another.
Trust, customer experience, and loyalty are tightly connected,
and all are important for generating business growth and
revenue. However, building trust takes time, commitment,
effort, and consistency in your consultative approach. But
without that effort, the flipside isn’t great. As the famous quote
from M.J. Arlidge highlights, “Trust is a fragile thing –
hard to earn, easy to lose.” APJ
Neil Osborne is master trainer, growth coach and entrepreneur
who exclusively works with salons and clinics for more than 30
years teaching businesses and brands how to profitably grow
and be commercially clever through industry specific methods.
You can contact him on +61 419 233 439 or at
www.spendsuasion.com.au
APJ 78

Inspiring
Education
FOR CLINICS & SKIN THERAPISTS BY GAY WARDLE
ONE-ON-ONE & TEAM MENTORING
‘INDUSTRY INSIGHTS’ LIVE COURSES
SPECIALISED ONLINE COURSES
E-BOOKS
TEMPLATES
SUPERVISED LASER HOURS
WWW.GWSI.COM.AU
APJ 79

REGULATIONS
AHPRA & TGA FOCUS ON
Cosmetic Medicine
C R A C K D O W N S
Tina Viney
Australia’s cosmetic industry has experienced a sharp rise in
demand and is now worth more than one billion dollars a year,
with cosmetic injectables experiencing the highest increase
of all beautyservices.
This sector, which is already the focus of new AHPRA
regulations passed in July 2023 and with further updates
tocome, as well as the TGA revised advertising guidelines that
were introduced on the 13th January have created extensive
industry unrest.
While initial reforms focused primarily on surgical procedures,
the regulators have announced a new crackdown on
neurotoxin injections, fillers, fat-dissolving injections, and
thread lifts performed by doctors, nurses and dentists.
THE NEW TREND SINCE THE PANDEMIC
I quick search in Seek.com.au and you will discover countless
job opportunities seeking qualified Cosmetic Nurse Injectors
to join their team within their clinics.
Studies confirm that during the pandemic, the worst hit
working sector in Australia was by far the healthcare workers.
Images of nurses and doctors laying exhausted on the floors of
hospitals haunted us, as they battled endless hours of heavy
workload of patients.
Not surprisingly, new candidates who are seeking a career
in medicine are considering cosmetic medicine as the more
favourable option as they will not be dealing with sick patients.
A career in cosmetic nursing is advertised as rewarding,
dynamic and flexible, and more appealing as an attractive
career pathway for those interested in nursing.
The field of aesthetic nursing is growing with more and more
patients being interested in trialling injectables, body sculpting
and laser treatments. With higher demand for these services,
cosmetic nurse career opportunities are becoming more
plentiful. The opportunities are extensive.
Additionally, there is a huge influx of qualified nurses who
are transitioning to aesthetic medicine by undetaking a quick
three-day course. This level of training is clearly deficient
resulting in an increase in botched procedures. It is the
reporting of these events that is contributing to the need for
tighter regulations.
In a bid to safeguard non-surgical patients AHPRA released
new guidelines in 2023 for registered practitioners based
on their independent investigation, that resulted in
changes to advertising of aesthetic treatments build on 16
recommendations.
As stated in our February newsletters, the role of APAN as
an industry body is to represent our members’ needs, and while
we strongly support regulations that provide safety measures,
we are also conscious of a regulatory overreach, especially
if the implementation phase is excessive and financially
challenging.
APAN SURVEY
In early February, APAN circulated a pole through our
social media channels seeking industry feedback on the
implementation of the new TGA Advertising guidelines. We
had an incredible response from many business owners,
as well as emails and phone calls and we have a very clear
understanding of your concerns, which we are taking onboard.
The overwhelming concern is the confusion on how to move
forward with implementing the new requirements with very
little guidelines on the appropriate changes to the advertising
terminology.
APJ 80

The key issues related to the following:
* New Rules Conflicting with past rules
Since 2013, TGA advised through their literature, website and
brochures that those who performed injectable procedures
were required to use the words “anti-wrinkle” and “dermal
filler” in their advertising, with a full description of fillers and
how they work. These requirements were for the benefit
of correctly informing the consumer. on what was involved.
To comply with these advertising requirements, business
owners heavily invested financially in designing their website,
brochures, SEO and social media material.
* Conflict with AHPRA rules
Furthermore, AHPRA also placed similar requirements,
stipulating that all “before and after” photos must disclose the
nature of the treatment used.
For the TGA to now change their mind and request the total
removal of these terms, is viewed as a regulatory overreach,
and unnecessary, as there is no evidence of patient risk to
necessitate these changes.
Additionally, to do so would be highly disruptive and financially
catastrophic for business owners as their websites and all their
marketing material would need to be recalled and completely
changed. The feedback we are receiving from the industry is to
pursue the TGA to rectify this problem that they have created.
If the changes to these regulations are intended for consumer
safety, where is the evidence that this was previously
compromised to justify such a decision?
Over the past 11 years, the rules in place provide consumers
with full transparency of what is involved with the treatments
they chose to undertake. They were required to read and
sign an Informed Consent form that clearly outlined risks,
possibilities and limitations, as well as appropriate risk
management strategies.
* Isn’t Advertising under the ACCC’s jurisdictions?
Several also pointed out that technically speaking, advertising
regulations come under the jurisdiction of the Australian
Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) and not the
TGA.
What we wish to clarify is that while the ACCC is technically
the authority on adverting regulations, the TGA has the right
to restrict the way that scheduled drugs are promoted. As such
we agree that specific drugs should not be named, however,
If you are a salon or clinic owner and are offering injectable services through
contractual arrangements with a doctor or a cosmetic nurse, it is important that
you take note of these changes to the rules as they will impact you and how you
advertise these services. It will also be your responsibility to ensure that your
cosmetic injector is complying with any changes to the guidelines and regulations
as you are liable under vicarious liability, if they don’t.
APJ 81

an anti-ageing procedure or a filler is considered a ‘description
of a procedure’ that delivers an outcome, it does not name any
specific drug. Removing the right to use the term that describes
the procedure would cause consumer confusion.
The recommendation to only use the term “we offer treatments
to treat wrinkles” is not only confusing, but it could also be
potentially inaccurate, as cosmetic injectables are not used only
to treat wrinkles – they could be used to improve facial balance
and harmony, improve the appears of the nose, or jawline. When
we pointed this out to the TGA they removed that requirement
from the website, however no substitute terminology was
recommended.
The challenge we have is that while cosmetic injectables are
strictly a “cosmetic appearance” procedure, they are delivered
using scheduled drugs that fall within the Drugs and Poisons
Act. As such, the TGA has grouped us with similar restrictions
to medical procedures for “ailment purposes”. Even though
technically we don’t come under the Health Act, the TGA has
interpreted that the same limitations to advertising rules should
also apply to us. We are challenging this position.
Another issue that we like to point out is that while we
understand that the TGA has the right to prohibit the naming
of a drug in advertising, there is a difference between naming
a drug and describing its action. For example, we are not
permitted to say anti-ageing treatment or injectable filler.
However, these terms do not expose a drug they describe
a procedure and its benefit or action. To justify this, it was
pointed out by industry feedback that the TGA would have
to also ban words like ‘pain killer’, ‘antibiotic’, ‘anti-nausea’ or
‘anti-anxiety’? And if not, what is the justification of targeting
only on our industry?”
APAN’S POSITION
Through a closer examination of the new rules and through ongoing
discussions with several industry bodies, members of our
National Advisory Council, as well as feedback from members
and the industry, we strongly support the benefit of combining
our recommendations to the TGA though a coalition with other
societies as the best approach. We believe a combined executive
submission to the TGA outlining specific areas that we all agree
on would create a stronger voice as collectively we would
also represent substantially more businesses – running in the
thousands.
The key to such a proposal is to present the discrepancies to
two specific areas:
• Regulatory justification: An analysis as to whether these
rules constitute a regulatory overreach that is
not justifiable.
• Financial implications: How the new rules will financially
impact and create incredible difficulty and consumer
confusion in their compliance.
While we have reached out to the TGA individually, we are
keen to continue a collective submission to the TGA. At this
point APAN has drafted a submission with our key concerns
and recommendations, which we have submitted to Dr David
Kosenko, President of the Cosmetic Physicians College of
Australasia who is overseeing the coalition. We all agree that we
need to continue to pursue this matter.
A HOT TOPIC AT THE CONFERENCE
At Thriving Aesthetic Summit I will provide an update on any
developments in my conference address. However, April Jones
will also be presenting a lecture on both TGA and AHPRA Laws
as she has also been invovled in this space with some of the
brands she is working with.
April has been at the forefront of medical aesthetics for over 20
years, working and collaborating with several award-winning
aesthetic brands, multi-site clinic groups and non-surgical
aesthetic businesses. Part of her responsibilities has been to
ensure staff under here supervision are regulatory compliant.
YOUR LIABILITY IN PROVIDING THESE SERVICES IN YOUR
SALON OR CLINIC
If you are a salon or clinic owner offering injectable services
through contractual arrangements with a doctor or a cosmetic
nurse, please take note of these changes as they will impact you
and how you advertise these services. Remember, you are also
liable if non-compliance under vicarious liability. APJ
Ongoing developments will feature in our newsletters and
website. However you can also call us on 07 5593 0360 if
require further details.
APJ 82

TGA RELEASES NEW UPDATE ON
COSMETIC INJECTABLE
ADVERTISING
Since preparing our report above the TGA has now issue an
update of their guidelines dated 7th March, 2024. While
these guidelines must be implemented, we will continue to
liaise with the TGA on our areas of concern. Please review
the updated guidelines below:
The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) has updated
its guidance on advertising cosmetic injectables to ensure
advertising rules are applied consistently across all industries
that deal with therapeutic goods.
Historically, the TGA has allowed indirect references to
prescription medicines to be referenced in advertisements
related to cosmetic health services. This was allowed only
in the context of promoting the service and only by using
generic non-product specific terms such as ‘wrinkle reducing
injections.’ Express references to products or ingredients
themselves, such as ‘Botox’ or ‘botulinum toxin’, were not
permitted. The TGA considered this a pragmatic approach
which would allow cosmetic clinics who offered these services
to differentiate themselves from those that did not.
A CHANGE IN PERSPECTIVE
Recently, the TGA has observed that clinics and health services
in other industry areas are advertising the availability of
prescription medicines, usually by referring to a class of goods
(for example ‘weight loss injections’, ‘medicinal cannabis’ or
‘nicotine vaping products’). The TGA has interpreted that
promoting a health service in this way is also an advertisement
for a therapeutic good that refers to prescription medicines,
which is unlawful.
To resolve any inconsistency in interpretation across
industry areas, the TGA no longer permits references to
terms such as ‘wrinkle reducing injections’ where those terms
would result in a reasonable consumer understanding the
intention of the content is to promote the use or supply of
a prescription medicine.
The revised guidance on advertising cosmetic injectables
is now available on the TGA website at their Advertising
Health Services page - www.tga.gov.au/resources/resource/
guidance/advertising-health-services.
This material reinforces that the legislation itself regarding
cosmetic injectables has not changed, and advertising the use
or supply of prescription medicines, including most cosmetic
injectable products (as opposed to services), has never been
compliant with the therapeutic goods framework. This
includes through use of testimonials, claims about the goods,
before and after photos, or price lists.
The update aligns with the focus of other regulators on health
professionals performing non-surgical cosmetic procedures
and acknowledges the increasing vulnerability of Australians
influenced by advertising in the cosmetic space. Prescription
only medications carry higher risks than goods available for
self-selection. Decisions about treatments that involve the
use of prescription medicines should only be made by a health
professional in consultation with each individual patient.
Consistent with the TGA’s approach to compliance, we will
seek high levels of voluntary compliance by engaging with and
educating industry in the first instance and will run industry
information sessions in the coming months.
We expect industry to take prompt steps to review their
existing advertising of cosmetic injectables to bring it into line
with the new guidance.
Any future compliance action we take will be consistent with
our regulatory framework. This means it will be evidencebased
and will adjust to respond to the nature and seriousness
of the alleged non-compliance. For more information on
the types of actions we may take, please see the Compliant
enforcement hub on the TGA website.
When preparing and/or updating your advertising, you can
obtain advice from your industry representative and or
Regulatory affairs consultant.
If you suspect non-compliance in relation to therapeutic goods,
we encourage you to report illegal and questionable practices
and suspected non-compliant advertising to
us online. APJ
For further information visit www.tga.gov.au/resources/
resource/guidance/complying-advertising-requirements
APJ 83

SCIENTIFIC NEWS
MICRONEEDLING
FOR ACNE VULGARIS
DOES NOT DISRUPT
SKIN STRUCTURE OR
MICROBIOME
While in the past it was widely
accepted and held as a scientific fact
that microneedling is an unacceptable
treatment for acne. A recent study has
proven of the benefit of microneedling
over acneic lesions. However, while
studies are proving positive results,
any treatment delivered over an
inflamed skin conditions should only be
undertaken following advanced training
as the risk of cross infection is high.
A small recent pilot study of 15
participants (11 females and four males)
with an acne vulgaris diagnosis has found
that microneedling not only produced
beneficial outcomes in patients with acne
vulgaris but also could do so without
disrupting either the skin’s structure or
its microbiome.
Group 1, which included 9 participants,
had three microneedling sessions four
weeks apart.
Group 2, which included 3 participants,
had four microneedling sessions two
weeks apart.
Each group had the same microneedling
pen with a corresponding needle depth
of 2.5 mm with three passes, after which
the clinician would use the stamping
technique on papular and pustular lesions
using a 2.0 mm depth.
At the 2-month follow-up visit, post-last
treatment, group 1, experienced a 48.20%
decrease in non-inflammatory lesions
and a 57.97% decrease in inflammatory
lesions. In contrast, group 2, underwent
a 54.0% decrease in non-inflammatory
lesions and a 36.67% decrease in
inflammatory lesions, with no changes
in erythema reported from baseline to
follow-up.
All patients reported that they would
recommend microneedling to treat
acne vulgaris.
All but one participant reported a 50% or
higher improvement in the appearance of
their acne.
Alqam, M. L., Jones, B. C., & Hitchcock,
T. M. (2023). Study to determine the
safety and efficacy of microneedling
as an effective treatment for acne
vulgaris. Skin Health and Disease, e264.
doi:10.1002/ski2.264
While very small, the study provides some
empirical evidence that does not support
the claim that microneedling would cause
more acneic flare-ups but produces beneficial
treatment outcomes.
I would, however, suggest caution in dealing
with inflammatory acne as the cross-infection
risk is high and more so with needling. APJ
CAN FOOD BE ADDICTIVE
AS ALCOHOL AND
CIGARETTES?
It does not appear to be carrots or
broccoli that you can’t stop eating or have
to hide for your secret food fix. So, what
is it about biscuits, doughnuts, chips and
pizza that drives people to compulsively
consume them, driving the alarming rates
of obesity in adults and children?
Khorisantono et al. (2023) study of 22
participants consuming milkshakes
containing different levels of fat and sugar
found that while sugar is directly detected
by our taste sensors, the same is not valid
for fat.
Instead, they found that the higher-fat
APJ 84

Research and Scientific New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his
thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
DiFeliceantonio, A., Roberto, C.,
Jimenez-Murcia, S., & Fernandez-Aranda,
F. (2023). Social, clinical, and policy
implications of ultra-processed food
addiction. British Medical Journal, 383,
e075354 doi:10.1136/bmj-2023-075354
While some manufacturers have reduced
some macronutrients, they tend to
supplement with others, negating the overall
effect. Even if one reduces fats and salts, most
may buy the other brand with such for the
pleasure it brings.
You could argue that by classifying ultraprocessed
foods as addictive in the same
way as cigarettes, there is more significant
potential to regulate them and improve our
food environment. APJ
milkshakes produce an oily, smooth
texture in the mouth, which activates a
critical neural reward system in the brain
called the orbitofrontal cortex (OFC),
with some more sensitive to texture than
others, compelling them to consume even
more fatty foods than other participants.
The difference is reward neurons in
the OFC of some people respond more
strongly to oral-sensory input from fatty
foods, which may depend on a variation in
genes and learning experiences that are
known to affect the development of
neural circuits.
Gearhardt et al. (2023). argue that the
unique effect of ultra-processed foods
on our neural reward system and in our
mouths means we are more susceptible
to becoming addicted to them. The
combination of refined carbohydrates and
fats often found in ultra-processed foods
seems to have a supra-additive effect
on brain reward systems, above either
macronutrient alone.
per cent) to alcohol and tobacco addiction
(14 and 18 per cent, respectively) as the
same reward pathways are activated.
Khorisantono, P., Huang, F., Sutcliffe, M.,
Fletcher, P., Farooqi, I., & Grabenhorst,
F. (2023). A Neural Mechanism in
the Human Orbitofrontal Cortex for
Preferring High-Fat Foods Based on Oral
Texture. Journal of Neuroscience, 43(47),
8000-8017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1523/
JNEUROSCI.1473-23.2023
Gearhardt, A., Bueno, N.,
YOUR ITCH MAY BE
FROM BACTERIA
Scientists have shown for the first
time that a common skin bacterium —
Staphylococcus aureus — can cause itch
by acting directly on nerve cells.
The S. aureus microbes secrete at least ten
enzymes upon skin contact – the research
eliminated each one to find the enzyme
called protease V8 was single-handedly
responsible for initiating itch, firstly in
mice and then repeated in
human skin.
Eat a handful of almonds or a doughnut
(with additional carbohydrates) – each
with fats yet with very different outcomes
in taste and resulting pleasure.
Such refined carbohydrates and fats evoke
similar levels of dopamine to those seen
with addictive substances such as nicotine
and alcohol, the authors say.
Rates of ultra-processed food addiction,
research suggests, are similar (about 14
APJ 85

SCIENTIFIC NEWS
V8 triggers itch by activating a protein
called PAR1, found on skin sensory
neurons that originate in the spinal cord
and carry various signals to the brain.
Deng, L., Costa, F., Blake, K., Choi, S.,
Chandrabalan, A., Yousuf, M., Shiers, S.,
Dubreuil, D., Vega-Mendoza, D., Rolland,
C., Deraison, C., Voisin, T., Bagood,
M., Wesemann, L., Frey, A., Palumbo,
J., Wainger, B. Richard L. Gallo Leyva-
Castillo, J., Vergnolle, N., Price, T.,
Ramachandran, R., Horswill, A., & Chiu, I.
(2023). S. aureus drives itch and scratchinduced
skin damage through a V8
protease-PAR1 axis. Cell, 186(24), 5375-
5393.E25. DOI:https://doi.org/10.1016/j.
cell.2023.10.019
The possible takeaway is that for itch,
rather than using corticosteroids, use an
antibacterial wash instead, removing
the Staphylococcus aureus from the
affected area. APJ
ACNE SCARRING
META-ANALYSES
Acne scarring, one of the most persistent
complications of acne, causes distress
to the appearance and psychology of
the patient. Although there are various
treatments for acne scars, such as laser
resurfacing, micro-needling, chemical
peels, and volumising fillers, acne scars
remain challenging to treat completely.
This systematic meta-analysis analysed 37
studies involving 24,649 acne patients.
47% had acne scars; gender, family history
of acne and acne severity were all risk
factors for developing acne scars.
Most were atrophic scars, 78% with 17%
being hypertrophic and 3% keloids. Of the
atrophic scars, 52% were Icepick, 24%
were rolling, and 25% were boxcar scars.
The differences in prevalence were
also observed in the location of acne
scars: 68% for the cheek, 29% for the
mandibular area, 35% for the forehead
and 29% for the temple area.
Scarring was found in 59% of those under
25 years and 32% over 25 years, with 58%
of scarring in men and 46% in women.
Liu, L., Xue, Y., Chen, Y., Chen, T., Zhong,
J., Shao, X., & Chen. J. (2023). Prevalence
and risk factors of acne scars in patients
with acne vulgaris. Skin Research and
Technology, 29, e13386. DOI: 10.1111/
srt.13386
This recent meta-analysis reminds us that
all forms of acne have the potential to cause
scarring, although it is interesting to see the
numbers from such a large group across
five continents.
It is essential to treat acne early to prevent
further aggravation and the formation
of scars. APJ
APJ 86

Research and Scientific New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his
thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
A COMPARISON OF
HOW AUSTRALIAN
WOMEN AGE
An interesting study of 3267 women
was conducted to compare and contrast
the effects of the use of smoking and
drinking on aspects of facial ageing and
to compare ageing characteristics after
controlling for tobacco and alcohol
consumption of Australian women versus
those of the UK, USA and Canada.
Smoking was also associated with perioral
lines and volume changes (under eye
puffiness, tear trough severity, depth of
nasolabial folds and oral commissures, and
decreased lip fullness.
Heavy alcohol use (8 drinks/week) was
also associated with volume changes
in under-eye puffiness depth of oral
commissures, midface volume loss, and
increased appearance of blood vessels.
Australians seem to age much earlier and
more severely than the three countries
examined in all characteristics.
Australian women self-reporting severe
ageing changes occurring earlier than
those of the UK, USA and Canada.
Compared to USA women, Australian
women are 10-20 years older than
USA women.
Some interesting demographic
characteristics uncovered included that
Australians were the most obese of the
four countries, with Australians more
likely to wear hats and Canadians more
likely to get sunburnt.
Goodman, G. (2023). Predictors of ageing:
An analysis of two cross-sectional studies
illustrating the effects of smoking and
alcohol and how Australian women age
when compared to counterparts in three
other countries. Australasian Society of
Cosmetic Dermatologists, 3 (1).
Undoubtedly, the Australian climate and
lifestyle (outdoor living) may be responsible
for much of the disparities made worse by
the smoking and drinking overlaying the sundrenched
country photodamage, making it
more pronounced sooner.
Image: The decade where 30% of
respondents first noticed severe ageing
changes of any of 8 facial features is
compared between Australian and USA
women. For crow’s feet, nasolabial folds and
tear troughs, Australian women noticed
these ageing changes 20 years before their
USA counterparts. Australian women were
ten years ahead for all other features
except forehead lines, noting these
ageing changes. APJ
NEW 1726 nm LASER
PROVIDES SUCCESSFUL
RESULTS FOR ACNE
This prospective study involved 104
subjects with moderate to severe facial
acne (Fitzpatrick Skin Types II to VI) who
received three laser treatments
at intervals of 3 weeks using a
1726 nm laser.
Over 50% reduction in active acne
inflammatory lesions in 32.6% of subjects
at four weeks post-treatment, increasing
to 79.8% and 87.3% at 12 and 26
weeks, respectively.
The proportion of subjects with clear or,
almost clear skin increased from 0% at
the beginning to 9%, 36.0%, and 41.8%
at 4, 12, and 26 weeks post-treatment,
respectively. The procedure was welltolerated
across all skin types, with no
serious adverse events related to the
device or protocol.
Alexiades, M., Kothare, A., Goldberg,
D., & Dover, J. (2023). Novel 1726 nm
laser demonstrates durable therapeutic
outcomes and tolerability for moderateto-severe
acne across skin types.
Journal of the American Academy of
Dermatology, 89 (4), 703-710. https://doi.
org/10.1016/j.jaad.2023.05.085
While various wavelengths are used
in acne treatments, it is shown that
selective sebaceous gland destruction was
demonstrated using a free electron laser
tuned from 1600 to 1800 nm.
The absorption spectra of sebum and
water measured in near-infrared 800-
2400 nm region demonstrated a narrow
band (approximately 40 nm) of selective
absorption in sebum over water, peaking at
1726 nm, which is why this new wavelength
was tested. APJ
APJ 87

REGULATIONS
UPDATE ON
THE COMMISSION
for Tattoo Inks
Robert McGowan
Member of the APAN National
Advisory Council
Think Aesthetics - CEO
The issue of pigments and tattoo ink safety has been under
regulatory review both in Australia, as well as in Europe and
the US for the past few years.
Despite the fact that there is clear scientific evidence that
certain pigments are confirmed as hazardous and even
potentially carcinogens, the transition to a regulation has
not yet been finalised within Australia, as it is a very complex
issue. This is not because of a lack of evidence, but rather
because of the manufacturing complexity and the financial
burden of removing certain inks and pigments from
current products.
As we have previously reported, in a bid to support the
regulatory process moving forward in Australia, APAN has
chosen to support and contribute to further investigative
activities with leading regulatory and risk assessment bodies
in Europe. One of these initiatives is the German Federal
Bureau of Risk Assessment (the BfR) who established in 2020
a Commission for Tattoo Inks.
APAN was invited to apply to be part of the commission and
we were delighted that Robert McGowan was approved
by the BfR to represent us. These meetings have been
extensive and ongoing, and we can confirm that Robert’s
technical and scientific contribution has been greatly
appreciated and invaluable to this process.
In this report Robert, is providing a few highlights from these
meetings including REACH Compliance and how they can be
interpreted in Australia, microbiological contamination of
products and more.
As we discussed in previous article in APJ and at last year’s
APAN Conference the German Federal Bureau of Risk
Assessment (the BfR) introduced a commission that was
established to investigate (over a three year period), the
composition of tattoo inks and the risks associated with them.
This includes cosmetic tattoo pigments.
There are 23 ‘commissioners’ that include representatives
from the following organisations:
• World Health Organization (cancer research agency)
• US Food & Drug Administration (USFDA)
• University researchers
• Tattoo ink manufacturers
• APAN
• Analytical laboratories
• BfR representatives.
Meetings were held through 2023 and the first meetings of
2024 have already taken place. Some of the findings so far are
quite remarkable. Here is a brief summary:
FINDINGS ON INGREDIENTS AND PURITY
In 2021 Europe introduced new pigment regulations (REACH
2020/2081), setting much higher standards for pigment
purity and banning (restricting) many ingredients, including
colourants considered carcinogenic or otherwise toxic.
Cosmetic tattooists may have seen new labels on their
pigments stating “REACH Compliant”. Well, if that gives you a
lot of comfort, it possibly should not! Here is why:
For tattoo inks or cosmetic tattoo pigments to be compliant
with the ‘new’ REACH regulations, a lot must happen,
particularly if the brand was a long way from compliant with
previous products.
There are several different ingredients in every ink or pigment,
and to be REACH 2020 compliant, each ingredient must be
fairly pure, and free of banned ingredients. Some brands would
have to change a lot of their colourants because many were
APJ 88

banned. It looks like different approaches have been taken.
Those brands that have seen REACH 2020 coming (for years)
have prepared for the change and been doing all the work
required to make any necessary changes to their ingredients.
If their products say REACH 2020 Compliant, the ingredients
probably are - mostly.
For brands that hoped REACH 2020 would go away or be
changed, or just thought it was all too hard, then some other
approaches have been taken. Here are a few issues to consider:
• Label the products “REACH Compliant”, which they may
be, but the fine print says “REACH 2008” which had much
lower standards.
• Avoid changing the product and just change the label on the
bottles so that the list of ingredients matches the REACH
2020 requirements.
Whether REACH 2020 compliance has been achieved or not,
the marketing will say it has, which is disturbing. How do we
know these problems exist? Through the work of the BfR, as
explained later.
What are the regulators doing about this? So far, there are a lot
of technical difficulties preventing EU countries from taking
action. Here is a brief explanation:
THE COMPLICATIONS OF ANALYSIS
Analysing inks and pigments is complicated -
very complicated.
The biggest current problem is that laboratories are being
asked to analyse if colourants are present in small amounts,
like 0.1% or 1 gram in 1000 grams. There are no standards
available for these colourants that say, “this is what 100%
looks like”.
Imagine you are trying to measure 1cm without a ruler, or without
even having something you know is one metre long (100cm). The
laboratories are trying to figure out where they can get standard
colourants from, as is the BfR, and the commission.
Common impurities such as Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons
(PAHs) and various amines, some of which are known
carcinogens, are commonly measured and there are laboratory
standards to work from. For some of these chemicals, REACH
2020 standards require analysis to as low as 0.00005% (0.5g
in a kg). This is fine because there are laboratory standards
to work from. As a result, some regulatory authorities in
some countries are checking PAHs and amines, but not the
colourants. They cannot force a product recall or prosecute a
company for selling non-compliant pigments (or inks) if they
do not have a laboratory report to back it up. Some ink and
pigment brands are taking advantage of this.
The biggest current problem is that laboratories are being asked to analyse
if colourants are present in small amounts, like 0.1% or 1 gram in 1000
grams. There are no standards available for these colourants that say,
“this is what 100% looks like”.
APJ 89

PIGMENT SAFETY AND WHAT TO LOOK FOR
The BfR, researchers and the commission know there are ink
and pigment brands selling products that have ingredients
that do not match the label. For instance, a detailed study
by a commission member in Italy revealed an ink where
colourant Green 7 (banned) is being used instead of Green 36
(not restricted). The label, of course, only lists Green 36. One
commission member made the general comment: “Don’t believe
what you read on the label”.
If you are using a pigment, check the label. If it says, “REACH
Compliant”, check if this is REACH 2020 or 2008 (you will
probably have to read the fine print on the information sheet
that comes in the packaging). If it is 2020, you have to decide
if you trust the brand. Do they have a history of appearing on
Safety Gate (formerly RAPEX), the European product safety
alert system? In the future, things will be much more tightly
controlled, but for now, it is not easy to be sure the ingredients
in inks and pigments are safe.
MICROBIOLOGICAL CONTAMINATION
In the Technology and Hygiene sub-commission, until recently,
most of the discussion had been on pigment manufacturing
and the different types of pigment products. However, the
February 2024 meeting switched the discussion to v of inks
and pigments.
In the PMU/cosmetic tattooing industry, a lot of attention
had been given recently to a product ban by the French
government, which forced all products for a particular brand
to be withdrawn from the French market. In September 2023,
the French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and
Health (ANSM) identified bacteriological contamination in
a particular lip pigment batch during random testing. After
further investigation, they issued the complete product ban,
including all pigments, in December 2023.
The issue appears to relate to sterilisation of products by
gamma radiation. This type of radiation is different to other
types because it passes through most things, killing living
matter along the way, (as opposed to causing burns and
other nasty effects).
Gamma radiation is invisible and leaves no visible trace. The
only way you can truly check if it has worked is to analyse
the product.
Unscrupulous operators could also simply put the symbol
Sterile R (for radiation) on the label and not actually use a
gamma sterilisation process.
Further discussion of this issue in the BfR sub-commission
meeting revealed the complexities of sterilising inks and
pigments. To avoid heating up a final product and causing
chemical reactions, a leading manufacturer explained that it
is the ingredients that should be sterilised prior to product
preparation. This is complicated, and it is likely that some
manufacturers avoid it. An opinion was expressed that
maybe only 50% of inks and pigments on the market are
in fact sterilised.
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR COSMETIC TATTOOISTS?
You cannot check if a product is sterile yourself, unless you
want to take it to a microbiological testing laboratory, which
is impractical. However, you can check if the pigment appears
on the Safety Gate (RAPEX) system, but that is unlikely as
there is only a very limited amount of testing being done on
PMU pigment. At the moment, the main thing you can do is ask
yourself, “do I trust this brand”? If you do not, it is not worth the
risk of your client getting an infection through no fault of yours.
As a result of this discussion, the hygiene issue is now much
more prominent in the thinking of the BfR commission, with
the objective to develop recommendations for the future
sterilisation of tattoo inks and pigments.
The US FDA, which has three representatives on the
commission, is developing its own guidance for tattooing
hygiene, including sterilisation requirements for inks
and pigments.
IN CONCLUSION
In this article, I have attempted to provide a few insights into
the work of the BfR’s Commission for Tattoo Inks. Other work
undertaken includes developing test methods to investigate
the toxicology of inks and pigments. Are they toxic, what skin
or other conditions might they cause, and when?
As well as the technical research side, the work of the
commission helps provide insights into the work of
organisations and regulators around the world, and what is
planned for our industry for the future.
Through APAN, we will help you stay ahead of the game and
keep you informed.
Caption: Note the Sterile R symbol on this cosmetic tattoo
pigment bottle indicating product sterilisation by (gamma)
radiation.
Caption: Results from a search for tattoo inks (include PMU
pigments) on the European Union Safety Gate (formerly RAPEX)
product safety alert system (first three of all 327 results in
date order)
APJ 90

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APJ 91

BUSINESS
The Power of Effective
INTERVIEW
QUESTIONS
Tina Viney
Within our industry business owners seek to employ a
potential staff member that can deliver a particular service
or treatment. While reviewing their credentials and their
technical capabilities it is important that you also capture and
glean as much information as possible about their character
and personality as this will determine another important
consideration – their potential behaviour within your business
and what value they bring to it.
Good interview questions are important because they allow
employers to learn relevant information about job candidates.
After advertising a job opening and reviewing resumes and
cover letters, an employer usually will conduct interviews to
meet applicants in person. Talking in real-time with candidates
can reveal their communication, social and interpersonal skills.
You can also discover their personalities, sense of humour and
personal hobbies.
Asking good questions enables you to determine whether
a candidate is a good fit for the role and position they will
hold in your business. By conducting a good interview, you
can also show potential employees your professionalism and
experience. This way, they will more likely remain interested in
the job.
Below I have outline three opening questions that will help you
relax your candidate, but also identify important attributes
about their attitude towards potentially working
with you.
Additionally, APAN in collaboration with a qualified
psychologist and HR professional, has developed a document
entitled JOB INTERVIEW QUESTIONS.
This document outlines 30 attributes with appropriate
questions to ask a potential candidate that will help you
determine specific character strengths and weaknesses and
their potential suitability to the position you have for them.
As an example, I have included six attributes for you to gain
some understanding of the level of detail that these potential
questions will reveal about the person you are interviewing.
Remember, there are 30 attributes in this document. If you
believe it can be of further value to your business, you
can access the full document from our website under Resource
Documents.
OK here are three top questions to get you started with your
interview and what they will you reveal about your potential
candidate that you are interviewing:
APJ 92

1. TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF?
This question prompts the job candidate to explain their
general professional background and personal interests.
You can ask this question first as it will help you gain a basic
understanding of the person and how they view themselves.
Candidates typically have an answer to this question prepared
that summarises their current occupation, previous role and
career goals. This question can provide a great foundation for
later, more specific questions.
By studying the way your candidate answers, you can also learn
about their competance in communication. If they offfer you a
concise yet detailed answer this may indicate that they may be
an good communicator. If they maintain eye contact and speak
with confidence, they may have excellent public speaking skills.
If they speak in a friendly and polite manner, it’s likely they
have good interpersonal skills.
2. WHY DO YOU WANT THIS JOB, AND WHY ARE YOU A
GOOD FIT FOR IT?
One of the most important questions you can ask your
interviewee is why they want the job. Their answer can reveal
their interest in the job. Their level of skill, their commitment to
standards and their passion for the job’s purpose. It’s important
to identify if a potential employee cares about what they do,
as this will indicate that they will have the capacity to perform
their job with enthusiasm and a strong work ethic. By asking
why your candidate is a good fit for the job, you can give them
an opportunity to describe their relevant experiences, skills
and qualifications. This is an important question, especially if
the role you’re hiring for has complex, strict requirements.
3. WHY DO YOU WANT TO WORK FOR US?
Asking this question assesses your candidate’s knowledge
about your company and its mission, principles and goals. If a
candidate has researched your company before the interview,
they can most likely answer this question with confidence and
ease. Their answer can show skills in preparation and attention
to detail and their passion for your particular business. It’s
important that employees admire the business they work
for so they can put their best effort into their duties. If this
question is poorly answered, it shows someone who just wants
a job and is not looking at bringing something positive to the
business. They are self-focussed.
APAN JOB INTERVIEW QUESTIONNAIRE
As I stated earlier, the APAN Job Interview questions are very
comprehensive and address 30 ATTRIBUTES with appropriate
questions to determine if your candidate potentially possesses
these qualities. Here are six from that list:
TEAM SPIRIT
• Have you worked with a team before? Describe that
experience. What was your role on the team? Did you
enjoy that role?
• Do you prefer to work on a team or on your own?
Explain why?
INTERPERSONAL SKILLS
• When you are in a room full of people do you prefer to
talk to one person or to make the rounds and meet
many people?
• What qualities in others do you admire the most?
• What approach do you use to connect with people who
are very different to you?
STRESS LEVELS
• What causes the most stress for you in a job situation?
Tell me of a time you felt the most stress on the job and
how you handled it?
DECISIVENESS
• Describe a time when you had to act or make a decision
with little warning. How did you handle it? What was
the outcome?
CONFLICT MANAGEMENT
• What personality types are the most difficult of you
to work with? How have you handled working with
these types of people?
• Describe a time when you helped to resolve a dispute
between other?
LEADERSHIP OR FOLLOWER
• Do you enjoy being responsible for your own work only
or for the work of others? Describe your most
favourable work environment?
• Describe the role you best enjoy playing on a team e.g.
idea person, problem solver, implementer, leader, one
of the team? Share an experience you had where you
served in this role?
BE WELL PREPARED
The objective of a good interviewer is to establish a
comfortable environment that fosters honest interaction, so
that both parties can determine if they will be a good fit for a
long term and successful employer/employee relationship.
Being appropriately prepared to ask the right questions is
critical to the success of the interview. While you may wish to
be positive in believing that the person you will be meeting will
be suitable for you, it is critical that you come prepared for an
honest evaluation of the person and their potential suitability
for your business.
Ask yourself: “If I was a client coming to this business, would I
appreciate and trust this person to provide me with the treatment I
am looking for and value for my money?”
If you have staff, ask yourself: “How well will this person fit with
the other staff members? Do you believe they will get on well with
them and contribute to a happy, collaborative and productive work
environment?”
The key is to enter this process with complete concentration
and focus on the person in front of you, as the decision you
make could potentially make or break your business.
Be prepared, be focused, and be determined to correctly assess
the candidate, both for their skills, as well as their personal
attributes and character, as their presence will contribute to
the human dynamics of your work environment. Make sure
they can add value and enhance your
clients’ experience. APJ
If you wish to access the complete APAN document JOB
INTERVIEW QUESTIONNAIRE here is the link https://app.
apanetwork.com/resource-documents. Ph: 07 5593 0360.
APJ 93

INGREDIENTS
Horsetail Extract:
A NOVEL HERB FOR SKIN HEALTH
Tina Viney
When it comes to skincare, one of the greatest developments
in recent years is the increased level of scientific studies
investigating the benefits of common herbal ingredients that
in past years only offered anecdotal evidence of benefits.
As a practitioner, gaining an understanding of the beneficial
attributes of various ingredient that are now supported by
studies is invaluable to you. This will allow you to determine
with greater confidence, the suitability of various formulas in
addressing specific skin conditions. In this article, I would like
to review the benefits of horsetail.
WHAT IS HORESTAIL?
Horsetail, also sometimes listed as equisetum arvense and
affectionately termed mare’s tail, shave grass, or bottlebrush, is a
perennial herb plant that has existed for thousands of years.
It prospers best in the damp and granular landscapes and is
most often found in moderate climates - specifically those
in parts of North America, Europe, and Asia. Horsetail has
a unique shape shifting appearance, first emerging in the
springtime with an asparagus-like stalk that ultimately withers
and wilts, making way for the lush, wispy, fern-like leaves that
are said to resemble the strands of a horse’s tail.
Horsetail has a variety of applications. As an ancient herb it is
not surprising that indigenous peoples and traditional forms
of medicine made good use of the plant. Practitioners, from as
early as the 17th century, have recorded using it in a multitude
of ways and for the treatment of various ailments.
In past years horsetail has been used to treat conditions
such as ulcers, poor circulation, constipation, fluid retention,
inflammatory diseases, bone loss, such as with osteoporosis.
In more recent times horsetail has also been used for
additional reasons from the revivification of lazy hair follicles
to the dissolution of bladder stones.
The extract of horsetail is made from the green leafy part of
this wondrous plant and, just like the whole plant itself, is said
to offer many benefits. Let’s explore the various advantages of
using horsetail extract for skin and how to incorporate it into
your routine.
HORSETAIL EXTRACT SKIN BENEFITS
1. An excellent source of silicon: Not to be confused with
the rubbery substance (silicone) that is formed into
everything from ice trays to makeup applicators. So how
do they differ?
One of the main differences between silicon and silicone
is that silicon is a naturally occurring element, while
silicone is a synthetic compound. Silicone is derived from
silicon, which is extracted from the earth’s crust in the
form of silica. In essence, silicon is a completely natural
element and one of the most abundant trace elements in
the human body.
Studies confirm that silicon can strengthen everything
from one’s organs, to bones, to the skin’s connective tissue.
And with that said, strengthening of the skin’s connective
tissue comes increased resilience and flexibility, resulting
in a more toned and youthful skin appearance.
Horsetail contains more silicon than any other herb on the
planet. More importantly, it features silicon in the highly
synthesisable forms of silica and silica acids, which yields
greater systemic absorption and a higher rate of benefit
than any other source of the same element.
2. Skin cleansing properties: Horsetail extract clarifies the
skin, so it is an excellent ingredient within a cleanser. It
also helps to purge impurities within pores, helping to
minimise their appearance for smoother, more evenly
textured skin.
3. Enhances hydration levels in the skin: Horsetail extract
is loaded with vitamin B5, which can act as a powerful
humectant. Incorporating horsetail extract, or horsetail
extract infused products into your routine can help plump
the skin through an increase in hydration.
4. Excellent for sensitive skin: A totally solid antiinflammatory
and super soother, topical horsetail extract
is excellent for sensitive skin types that may suffer from
allergies, or inflammatory conditions like eczema. It also
reduces acne inflammation and allergic reactions that may
be triggered due to irritants. Additionally, its antibacterial
properties can restrain acnes bacteria.
5. A proven natural antioxidant: Horsetail extract is a
goldmine of nutrients like calcium, magnesium, zinc,
phosphorus, potassium, selenium, riboflavin, niacin,
and vitamin C. In combination, these nutrients work
synergistically to fend off the dreaded environmental
stressors, protecting the skin against premature ageing
and sun damage. Furthermore, horsetail extract is full
of bioflavonoids, which work in tandem with vitamin C,
helping the body to use it more effectively.
APJ 94

Horsetail contains more silicon than any other herb on the planet. More
importantly, it features silicon in the highly synthesisable forms of silica
and silica acids, which yields greater systemic absorption and a higher
rate of benefit than any other source of the same element.
As we know, free radicals in the environment can age
and damage the skin. The natural antioxidant properties
of horsetail make it an excellent ingredient to fight
environmental damage.
6. Reduces wrinkles and enhances collagen production:
Silicon is one of the main components of collagen. With
its high silicon content, horsetail is known to help support
collagen integrity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Taken internally, horsetail is also beneficial for hair, teeth
and bone strength. For the skin, it improves elasticity and
locks in moisture.
7. Heals Minor Injuries: Wounds, cuts and eczema flare-ups
can be healed by using this herbal remedy. Its antiseptic
property stops bacterial and fungal infection around
wounds and injuries.
8. Helps Improve Brittle Nails: One of horsetail’s most wellknown
uses is its effectiveness in treating brittle nails,
when applied topically or taken internally as a supplement.
Numerous anecdotal reports tell of this herb’s ability to
help improve brittle nails. This is due to its high content of
silicic acid and silicates, which provide about two to three
per cent elemental silicon.
9. Two clinical trials were conducted on 36 women with nail
plate alternations who were given an organic horsetail
extract to apply topically for 28 days. The results
demonstrated a significant reduction in longitudinal
grooves as well as 85% reduction in lamellar splitting of
treated nails. The results were published in the Journal of
Plastic Dermatology (1).
In another study, 22 women with nail plate alterations
applied the test product containing horsetail randomly on
the nails of one hand only, on alternating days, for 14 days.
Overall, the test product significantly improved splitting,
fragility and longitudinal grooves.
10. Heals Wounds and Relieves Burns: Multiple studies
have shown that horsetail is beneficial to wound healing.
A randomised, placebo-controlled trial published in
2015 in the Iranian Red Crescent Medical Journal found
that a 3 per cent horsetail ointment promoted wound
healing and relieved pain during the 10-day period
following an episiotomy. Another study from Turkey using
animal subjects published in 2013 found that ointments
containing 5 to 10 per cent horsetail provided a significant
boost to diabetic wound healing (2).
To treat burns and wounds, horsetail herb is often applied
directly to the affected area of skin.
IN CONCLUSION
Silicon is the second most abundant element on earth, and
the third most abundant trace element in the human body. It
is present in water, plant and animal sources. On the skin, it
is important for optimal collagen synthesis and activation of
hydroxylating enzymes, improving skin strength and elasticity.
Regarding hair benefits, it was suggested that a higher silicon
content in the hair results in a lower rate of hair loss and
increased brightness. For these beneficial effects, there is
growing interest in scientific studies evaluating the efficacy
and safety of also using dietary supplements containing
horsetail. Its use aims at increasing blood levels of this element
and improving the skin and its annexes appearance.
As a readily available trace element in the human body, makes
silicon a bioidentical ingredient when included in skincare
formulations. APJ
References:
1. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/258027706_Equisetum_
arvense_in_a_new_transungual_technology_imporves_nail_structure_
and_appearance
2. The Effect of Equisetum Arvense (Horse Tail) Ointment on Wound
Healing and Pain Intensity After Episiotomy: A Randomized Placebo-
Controlled Trial. Azam Asgharikhatooni, 1 Soheila Bani, 2 ,* Shirin
Hasanpoor, 3 Sakineh Mohammad Alizade, 3 and Yousef Javadzadeh 4
APJ 95

RESEARCH
AROMATICS
what the nose enjoys
The role of fragrance in mood,
memory and emotions
Tina Viney
Have you ever thought why fragrances are so popular?
Despite difficult economic time fragrances are always in
demand with new ones popping up every year.
Aromas have intrigued and impacted humans, and even
animals, since the dawn of time. This is because of the
incredible way that they impact us on so many levels - release
happy hormones and triggering memories through their own
unique way.
“… I carried to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had let soften
a bite of madeleine. But at the very instant when the mouthful
of tea mixed with cake crumbs touched my palate, I quivered,
attentive to the extraordinary thing that was happening inside me.”
Note: Madeleine is a very popular French delicious sponge biscuit
(for those who are not familiar with them).
It’s a seminal passage in literature, so famous in fact, that it has
its own name: the Proustian moment - a sensory experience
that triggers a rush of memories often long past, or even
seemingly forgotten.
For French author Marcel Proust, who penned the legendary
lines in his 1913 novel, “À la recherche du temps perdu,” it was
the soupçon of cake in tea that sent his mind reeling.
But according to Wednesday, a biologist and an olfactory
branding specialist, it was the nose that was really at work. This
should not be surprising, as neuroscience makes it clear - smell
and memory seem to be so closely linked because of the brain’s
anatomy. Studies now confirm that smell and emotion are
stored in one memory.
Smells are handled by the olfactory bulb, the structure in the
front of the brain that sends information to the other areas of
the body’s central command for further processing. Odours
take a direct route to the limbic system, including the amygdala
and the hippocampus, the regions related to emotion and
memory. The olfactory signals very quickly get to the limbic
system.
But, as with Proust, taste plays a role, too, said Murthy, whose
lab explores the neural and algorithmic basis of odour-guided
behaviours in terrestrial animals.
When you chew, molecules in the food, he said, “make their
way back retro-nasally to your nasal epithelium,” meaning that
essentially, “all of what you consider flavour is smell. When you
are eating all the beautiful, complicated flavours, they are all smell.”
Murthy said you can test that theory by pinching your nose
when eating something such as vanilla or chocolate ice cream.
Instead of tasting the flavour, he said, “all you can taste is sweet.”
For decades individuals and businesses have explored
ways to harness the evocative power of smell. Think of the
cologne or perfume worn by a former flame. And then there
was AromaRama or Smell-O-Vision, brainchildren of the
film industry of the 1950s that infused movie theatres with
appropriate odours in an attempt to pull viewers deeper into a
story, and the most recent update, the decade-old 4DX system,
which incorporates special effects into movie theatres, such as
shaking seats, wind, rain, as well as smells.
Today, the aroma of a home or office is big business. Scent
branding is in vogue across a range of industries, including
hotels that often pump their signature scents into rooms and
APJ 96

lobbies, noted the authors of 2018 Harvard Business
Review article.
“In an age where it’s becoming more and more difficult to stand
out in a crowded market, you must differentiate your brand
emotionally and memorably,” experts stress. “Think about your
brand in a new way by considering how scent can play a role in
making a more powerful impression on your customers.” The more
you use your nose, the stronger it gets.
Someone who knows that lesson well is Dawn Goldworm,
co-founder and nose, or scent, director of what she calls her
“olfactive branding company,” which uses the “visceral language
of scent to transform brand-building” in the actual buildings
where clients reside (mostly through ventilation systems or
standalone units).
Among Goldworm’s high-profile customers is the sportswear
giant Nike. Its signature scent, she explains in a video on her
company’s website, was inspired by, among other things, the
smell of a rubber basketball sneaker as it scrapes across the
court and a soccer cleat in grass and dirt. Her goal, she said,
is to create immediate and memorable connections between
brands and consumers.
When we review the powerful ways that sent can impact our
mind and memories, we also understand that aromas are so
impactful that they even change our hormones. No wonder
perfumes continue to captivate us – indeed while they enter
through the nose their reach is much wider as they can activate
change of mood, calm, excite and enthuse.
So, lets take a look at some of the evolving trends of
fragrances and what is trending in 2024.
THE EVOLUTION OF FRAGRANCE TRENDS
In the late 60s and 70s when I was living in Europe the
dominant trend was for every woman to have her own
distinctive, ‘signature fragrance’. In fact, this was so popular
that between friends you could identify who had been in the
room by the aroma they left behind. Mine was Ma Griffe by
Madame Carven based on Gardenia, Jasmine and Rose. A
delightful fragrance that I thoroughly enjoyed wearing.
With the signature aroma trend, came the introduction of the
layering method of application, and there were many options
and ways of achieving this. Well-known brands, especially from
major French fashion houses, often produced their fragrances
for different modes of application so that they could be layered
to their required depth - lighter for daytime and warmer
weather, and stronger and more alluring for evening. Options
included:
• Body wash
• Talc body powder
• Body lotion
• Eau de Toilette
• Eau de Cologne
• Eau de Parfum
For a very light refreshing whiff of the fragrance, you could
start with a body wash that contained a hint of your signature
fragrance, followed by talcum powder or body lotion. This was
enough to leave the body with only a hint of the fragrance.
Moving to eau de toilette, which in French means grooming
water. With its high alcohol content, eau de toilette was often
sprayed lightly on a lady’s underwear, or even gently on her
hair. Another way to delicately capture the fragrance is to
spray it on a handkerchief in your handbag – handkerchiefs
were in common use back then.
Eau de cologne was another step above the eau de toilette and
was often the go-to product fordaytime use.
Ultimate and the most cherished piece-de-resistance, however
was, and still is, is the eau de parfum - this was only dabbed
gently in areas where there was a pulse, such as the wrists,
behind the ears and a drop on the decollete.
In essence, while all three formulas contained the same
fragrance, they differed in their concentration of the aromatic
extract. For example:
• Eau de Toilette contains 5-15% (typically 10%)
aromatic compound.
• Eau de Cologne contained 3-5% aromatic compound
mixed with 80-90% alcohol with a 5-15 water in the mix.
• Eau de Parfum contains 15 – 40% (typically 20%)
aromatic compounds, so as you can see are much
stronger than the others.
Today, fragrances have dropped the talcum powder since it has
been link to cancer. While occasionally, you can find a brand
that includes their fragrance within a body lotion of shower
gel, but by far the most popular formulations are cologne and
Smell and memory seem to be so closely linked because of the brain’s
anatomy. Studies now confirm that smell and emotion are stored in one
memory. Smells are handled by the olfactory bulb, the structure in the
front of the brain that sends information to the other areas of the body’s
central command for further processing. Odours take a direct route to
the limbic system, including the amygdala and the hippocampus, the
regions related to emotion and memory. The olfactory signals
very quickly get to the limbic system.
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parfum, with the occasional option of roller fragrances with the
extract suspended within an oil.
WHAT WE CAN EXPECT IN 2024
A new year can bring exciting new trends, and that includes
the fragrance industry. In 2024, there are a few new scent
trends you can look forward to. From the revival of classic
scents to the introduction of innovative combinations, this is
the year for fragrance exploration with very interesting twists
as the fragrance industry become more innovative, more
sophisticated and more surprising and unexpected in 2024.
Here are the top perfume trends to look out for in 2024.
1. “Edible” Fragrances
So-called “edible” fragrances are the ones you almost want
to eat because they smell so good. Let’s make it abundantly
clear that edible scents aren’t actually food, but they do
capture the beautiful smells of your favourite treats. In
the perfume world, they’re often known as gourmand
fragrances.
These fragrances feature scents like chocolate, honey,
vanilla, praline, cherry, or marshmallow, and when done
correctly, these scents are balanced out using other
elements. Combining edible scents with musk or patchouli,
for example, can create depth and makes sure it doesn’t
end up smelling overly sweet. Without a doubt, these tasty
fragrances are becoming popular in 2024. If you enjoy food,
look out for them, they are a fun choice.
2. Sophisticated Cherry Scents
Fruity scents will never go out of style, and in 2024, cherries
are taking centre stage. Their mouth-watering freshness is
vibrant and tarte juicy fruits are gaining popularity, but with
reimagined takes.
Maybe you loved super fruity fragrances when you were
younger… but gone are the days of dousing yourself in
sickeningly sweet body sprays. In 2024, expect a new version
of fruity scents that’s much more elevated and mature.
Similar to edible fragrances, when you combine fruity notes
with musky and earthy notes, they take on a new life. One
of the most popular perfumes is Tart Deco, which is a 2023
Allure Best of Beauty winner.
This elevated cherry fragrance features cherry, rose, and
mimosa with a blend of birchwood, vetiver, and vanilla. It’s
still youthful, but this fruity scent leans more luxurious and
indulgent to backdrop your new year.
3. A New Take on Vanilla
Vanilla is a tried-and-true scent that has always been
popular. In fact, studies confirm that vanilla has been voted
in 2023 as the most popular fragrance by both men and
women. The true beauty of vanilla is its versatility - you can
pair almost any scent with vanilla, and it will most likely smell
good. Because of this, there are many, many ways to enjoy
this familiar fragrance.
One of the main reasons that vanilla is such a fan favourite
is because of the nostalgia it brings. From the warm vanilla
body lotion, you used as a pre-teen to memories of baked
buscuits with your mom, or hot pastries, vanilla spans far and
wide when it comes to the feelings it can conjure up.
So, what puts it on the watchlist for 2024? The biggest
difference between “old” and “new” vanilla scents is that the
newer fragrances aren’t sickeningly sweet - they take vanilla
and melt it together with rich, complex scents to give it a
deeper layer.
If you’re a vanilla lover, Vanilla Vice is a sweet yet
sophisticated blend of ice cream, Madagascar vanilla, amber
wood, and musk. Vanilla Vice is an ode to the old school
vanillas we love, but with a warm and woody undertone.
4. Unexpected Scents
Many of the most popular fragrances use fruity, citrusy,
woody, earthy, and floral scents, but there is a new twist in
2024 with the opportunity to try something unexpected.
Snif’s new fragrance, Dead Dinosaur, is an excellent example.
This scent is an ode to the addictive smell of petrol. If you’ve
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ever filled up your tank and thought, “I really like the smell
of petrol” you will love this fragrance as Dead Dinosaur
makes the most of it. This petrol fragrance combines petrol
accord, pink pepper, ginger, magnolia flower, orris, Davana,
cedarwood, Peru balsam, and amber woods. It’s a unique
scent that not everyone is bold enough to try - but once you
do, many are getting hooked.
5. Summer-Themed Scents
Warmer weather often means sunnier days and brighter,
fresher fragrances. You can wear these scents any time of
the year without the dictates of temperature as they are
pleasant both during hot and cold weather and are a fun and
playful way to use fragrance.
Summer-themed scents offer a cool crispness you won’t
find in warmer, richer scents. Summer fragrances often
include citrus, floral, and beachy elements. You might smell
ingredients like orange blossom, neroli, lily of the valley,
orchid, and peony, for example. The blend of zesty, fresh, and
flowery smells can be uplifting anytime you need a boost, and
it might even bring back memories of that girls trip you took
or the last family vacation you went on.
6. Genderless Fragrance
The truth is, there are no gender-specific rules when it comes
to fragrance. Any fragrance can work for any person who
wants it. At some point along the way, scents began to be
labelled for men or women, but sometimes, fragrances are
too nuanced to be assigned to one group. Traditionally, floral
notes fall into feminine categories, while wood and spicier
notes are considered masculine. However, fragrance houses
are now blurring the lines with more unisex fragrances
meant for everyone, with many combine stereotypical
“feminine” and “masculine” ingredients together.
Traditionally, floral
fragrances fall into feminine
categories, while wood and
spicier notes are considered
masculine. However,
fragrance houses are now
blurring the lines with more
unisex fragrances meant
for everyone, with many
combine stereotypical
“feminine” and “masculine”
ingredients together.
For example, Burning Bridges features rose, freesia, and
vanilla along with tobacco, fresh spices, and oakmoss. The
result is a sweet, toasted scent that’s bold and addictive to
anyone who smells it.
I for one, have at times enjoyed a men’s cologne especially
the citrusy ones such as Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme, or
Dior’s Eau Sauvage, they both smell softer when on
a woman.
7. Clean Ingredients
The best perfumes are made with high-quality ingredients.
The trend toward fragrances formulated using industry
clean standards and don’t include parabens, preservatives,
phthalates, or synthetic dyes are a growing trend, especially
as allergy-prone individuals still love to wear perfumes, but
often react to synthetic fragrances.
IN CONCLUSION
For several years, fragrances have been removed from
cosmetic skincare products because of their potential in
triggering allergies. However, the sensorial effect is all part
of the beauty and wellness experience. New-generation
fragrances are now being re-introduced into skincare products
consisting of purer ingredients that can deliver an uplifting
experience without the nasty allergic reactions. APJ
APJ 99

EDUCATION
EXPLORING THE EVOLUTION OF THE
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY
An Interview with Karen Connelly
Karen Connelly is an experienced professional with diverse
accomplishments that she has achieved throughout her
career in the realms of education, business management, and
spa leadership.
She is currently serving as the Admissions Manager at the
Australasian College of Health and Wellness (ACHW) guiding
and advising prospective students as they seek to venture
into a degree-level qualification and move into the highest
echelons of dermal and aethetic clinicians.
In this interview Karen shares with us her views on
the evolution of aesthetics, what is driving consumer
expectations and the most important considerations that
business owners need to invest in to ensure they continue to
achieve success and grow in this fiercely competitive market.
APJ Q1: KAREN, CAN YOU SHARE WITH US YOUR
BACKGROUND AND PROFESSIONAL HISTORY.
WHEN DID YOU START IN THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY?
Karen: My journey in the aesthetics industry began in 1998
when I embarked on my career with a Diploma in Beauty at
the age of 17. Eager for knowledge and adventure, I set out to
explore the world.
My true passion for the wellness and aesthetics industry was
ignited when I was selected to work on cruise ships overseas.
The pinnacle of my training occurred at the renowned Steiner
Academy in London, where the intensity of the program left
an indelible mark on me, and I am eternally grateful for the
incredible knowledge I gained during that time.
APJ 100

Returning to Australia after gaining extensive knowledge and
experience abroad, I fulfilled a lifelong dream by establishing a
five-star day spa facility specialising in luxury spa and wellness
treatments. Witnessing the spa’s growth, I noticed a shift in
client preferences towards more results-driven therapies. To
meet this demand, I expanded our offerings to include laser
treatments, cellulite treatments, and naturopathic services,
catering for not only to relaxation but also to those seeking
tangible results.
This evolution sparked a deeper quest for knowledge, leading
me to delve into more advanced studies of the skin. At that
time, specialised courses in laser and skin therapies were
scarce, prompting me to learn from industry mentors and
extensive reading. This knowledge was then passed on to
my staff.
Establishing my day spa, I was able to achieve my dream for
over a decade. Twenty-five years later, my passion for the field
remains strong. Now, I continue my journey in the industry.
My current position as the Admissions Manager with the
Australasian College of Health and Wellness, I am able to
contribute to the support and nurture of future leaders of the
aesthetics industry.
APJ Q2. OVER THE PAST 4-5 YEARS WHAT INDUSTRY
ADVANCES HAVE YOU OBSERVED AND HOW DO YOU
SEE THESE ADVANCES SHAPING THE FUTURE OF THE
AESTHETICS INDUSTRY – BOTH MEDICAL AND NON-
MEDICAL?
The past few years have
witnessed remarkable
strides in leveraging
technology to enhanced
and innovatskin
treatments.
Karen: There has been a fascinating evolution of the aesthetics
industry, but the tends appear to have come full circle. Over
the past decade the emphasis has moved from spa and wellness
treatments, progressing to more advanced skin treatment
results and moving to cosmetic medicine and injectables.
However, as I reflect on these developments, it’s clear that the
industry is poised to embark on two distinctive directions, each
offering a unique perspective on the future
of aesthetics.
The first trajectory appears to be a harmonious amalgamation
of the initial elements—spa, wellness, and medical treatments.
This approach takes a holistic view of skin treatments,
considering not just the aesthetic aspects, but also addressing
wellness from a comprehensive and systemic perspective.
This integrated approach recognises the importance of skin
health as intricately linked to overall wellbeing, combining
both medical expertise and a wellness perspective to achieve
optimal results for consumers.
Concurrently, the second direction that stands out is the
increasing integration of technology into aesthetic practices.
The past few years have witnessed remarkable strides
in leveraging technology to enhanced and innovate skin
treatments. From advanced skincare devices to AI-driven
diagnostics, technology is progressively taking a leading role
in achieving the new level of results that are possible with
skin and body therapies through the aesthetics industry. This
tech-centric approach offers efficient solutions, personalised
treatments, and cutting-edge advancements that cater to the
ever-evolving demands of clients seeking the latest in more
advanced skincare and body treatment results.
In essence, these dual directions—the holistic approach and
the technology-driven pathways are the driving forces that are
redefining the future of the aesthetics industry. By embracing
both perspectives, practitioners can offer a well-rounded
range of services, combining traditional wisdom with modern
innovation to meet the diverse consumer needs in both the
medical and non-medical spheres. As the industry continues to
evolve, staying abreast of these advancements will be key to
thriving in an ever-changing landscape.
APJ Q3. THERE HAVE BEEN MANY CHANGES IN THE
INDUSTRY, AS WELL WITH CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS,
ESPECIALLY SINCE THE PANDEMIC. FROM YOUR
OBSERVATION, WHAT KEY AREAS BUSINESSES OWNERS
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NEED TO CAREFULLY MANAGE IF THEY ARE TO SUCCEED
AND CONTINUE TO GROW IN A FIERCELY COMPETITIVE
MARKET?
Karen: The industry’s landscape has undergone significant
transformations, especially in response to evolving consumer
expectations, fuelled also by the pervasive influence of social
media. To survive and continue to grow in today’s fiercely
competitive market, business owners must navigate several
key areas, particularly in the aftermath of the pandemic.
One of the pivotal shifts I have observed revolves around
the heightened knowledge of consumers. With easy access
to information online, clients enter skincare clinics with
high expectations, often knowing precisely what they want
to achieve and even how. To meet these expectations and
ensure optimal results while prioritising client safety, it is
paramount that business owners invest in staff training. The
staff needs to be not only well-qualified, but also exceptionally
knowledgeable in the treatments they perform. For business
owners, this means an unwavering commitment to maintaining
the highest standards of training. It’s not just about initial
qualifications; ongoing training and professional development
within the facility is equally critical. This ensures that the staff
stays abreast of the latest developments, techniques, as well
as safety protocols, especially as treatment outcomes are now
required to deliver more advanced outcomes that often carry
risks if performed with insufficient knowledge.
Moreover, accountability extends beyond the clinic doors.
Business owners should demand that product and equipment
manufacturers uphold the same commitment to training. Since
the pandemic, there has been a noticeable gap in the training
provided by product and equipment suppliers. This places the
responsibility on the business owners to bridge the training
gap for their staff. However, it’s crucial for manufacturers to
recognise their responsibility in ensuring continuous training
availability for the businesses they service.
Ultimately, to achieve business success in this fiercely competitive
business environment, requires a dual commitment:
• Business owners must prioritise ongoing staff training.
• Equipment and product manufacturers and suppliers
must also contribute to the ongoing skills development of
their accounts.
It’s a collective effort that will not only support business
survival and growth, but also contribute to advancement
and overall evolution of the aesthetics industry as a valuable
consumer service.
APJ Q4. CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR APPOINTMENT
AS ADMISSIONS MANAGER AT THE AUSTRALASIAN
ACADEMY OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS. WHAT IS YOUR
ROLE IN THIS POSITION AND CAN YOU SHARE ANY
EXCITING DEVELOPMENTS AT ACHW?
Karen: Absolutely! In my role as Admissions Manager at the
Australasian Academy of Health and Wellness (ACHW), I wear
many hats to ensure a seamless experience for prospective
and current students. My responsibilities include advising and
guiding potential students on Degree Level Qualifications,
building strong relationships by listening to their needs,
managing inquiries and applications, and conducting
informational interviews. I determine student eligibility,
provide counselling on admission policies and oversee the
enrolment process. It’s a dynamic role that aligns with my
passion for education and supporting students on their
academic journey. I’m eager to contribute to the success of
both students and the institution.
Regarding exciting developments for ACHW, we are proud to
also offer six Undergraduate Certificates made up of four units
from our degree courses to provide specialised certificate level
qualifications in areas where there have been industry gaps.
We are so passionate about education and raising the overall
standard within the industry. In particular our Undergraduate
Certificate in Laser and Dermal Therapy Essentials and our
Undergraduate Certificate in Dermal Interventions were
created to bridge the gap between beauty and dermal, and
to assist in resolving the industry skills gap by providing
achievable qualifications in the most current and practical
clinical treatments that are delivered within the industry
today. The other exciting issue is that these certificates are
at a tertiary level so they also provide a steppingstone or an
articulating pathway into the Associate Degree in Applied
Health Science (Dermal Therapy) and the Bachelor of Applied
Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). APJ
APJ 102

AT A GLANCE
Who we are and what we stand for
While we represent a cross section of skin therapists, laser practitioners, dermal clinicians, as well
as cosmetic nurses, doctors and dentists, our focus is on introducing and advocating best practice
standards on evidence-based education for all levels of membership.
Aesthetics is now a collaboration of skin therapies and cosmetic and aesthetic medicine. Cross
education is therefore important for all practitioners, both medical and non-medical to comply with
their respective regulatory requirements, while also interfacing through educated understanding
and appreciation of the various modalities and how they can best collaborate for the
benefit of the consumer.
APAN’s role is to bridge these two sectors with appropriate education and where necessary,
best practice standards, business and regulatory support.
CPD Program
APAN is the first non-medical association to introduce a CPD
program through our ARAP ® and CTARP Registration program.
This is available to both AHPRA registered practitioners, as well
as non-medical qualified practitioners who wish to be recognised
for adhering to best practice standards.
APJ Journal
We produce a hard copy of APJ Journal, which is posted to our
members and subscribers to ensure that they can access on
demand quality educational content, as well as being available
online.
Code Of Ethics
APAN’s Code of Ethics resulted from global research to reflect
the highest standards of ethical and professional standards
covering five different categories.
National Advisory Council
Our National Advisory Council consists of two divisions
– Academic & Scientific Division and Business Innovation
Division. These consist of leading experts in their field so that
they can guide us in our progress and program development.
https://apanetwork.com/advisory
Internationally Aligned
APAN is also internationally aligned with peak bodies around
the world. This is important to us when putting forward
recommendations to government regulators, as we want to
ensure that our recommendations meet with global standards
whenever possible.
Education Online Courses with CPD Points
Members can update their knowledge by completing study
units on a variety of topics with allocated CPD Points.
Preferred Suppliers
Are you seeking a reputable and reliable supplier? We screen
companies for the credibility of their products, as well as
reliable and quality service. Check the companies that meet
those standards on APAN’s website?
Annual Conference Program
In 2024 APAN is raising the standard of the conference
to include a stronger focus on important current business
changes, regulatory updates, scientific development and risk
management. We are also introducing THREE STREAMS
of Workshops including one dedicated to the latest trends
in cosmetic injectable products and techniques. THRIVING
AESTHETIC SUMMIT will be introducing this year’s advances.
WHEN YOU JOIN AN ASSOCIATION CONSIDER WHAT YOU
ACTUALLY GAIN FROM YOUR INVESTMENT? THIS IS WHAT
YOU CAN EXPECT FROM YOUR APAN MEMBERSHIP:
• Access to expert advice on business matters,
technical and regulatory advice.
• Staff and HR issues, gain quick access through our
designated Helpline Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm.
• Business Coaching and legal advice.
• Comprehensive member kit with certificates, Code
of Ethics, list of Resource documents and a quarterly
journal posted to your address.
• Discount for attending Conference Events.
• On-going educational program.
• Industry updates and regulation changes.
• Access to member’s mentoring program.
• Website to promote your business for free.
• Website to promote your services to the public.
• And much more …
APAN MEMBERSHIP IS THE MARK OF CREDIBILITY AND INTEGRITY | www.apanetwork.com
APJ 103

AESTHETIC
SUMMIT
Business & Clinical Mastery
19 TH – 20 TH MAY
Mantra on View, Surfers Paradise, GOLD COAST
APAN is stepping up its annual conference event to a new
level through the introduction of the first AESTHETIC
SUMMIT for the benefit of the Australian business and
professional community.
The new format promises an incredible educational and
networking experience providing a comprehensive program
with a stronger focus on:
• New market drivers that are changing the
aesthetics business model.
• Important changes in social media marketing – learn
the best client acquisition strategies that work.
• Current skin needs and the dermatological
treatment perspective.
• Updates on ingredient formulations.
• Key areas that business owners and their staff
need to perfect.
• New technologies.
• Learn how to manage the impact of threats and identify
exciting new business growth opportunities.
Designed to introduce a new level of Excellence in Business and Clinical Mastery
APJ 104
AN EVENT YOU CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS!
Visit www.apanconf.com for further information and to register.