British Travel Journal | Summer2024

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BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SUMMER 2024 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

Captivating 

COASTLINES 

Discover hidden Cornish coves, 

learn how to surf; and embrace 

slow travel, hugging the Devon 

coastline in an EV 

Discover the 

Dual-cation 

Combine town and country 

into your weekend break 

A TASTE OF 

TILLINGHAM 

Sip natural wines at a low 

intervention vineyard rooted in 

the East Sussex countryside 

Explore Lowlands 

and Peaks 

From the bonnie banks 

of Loch Lomond 

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SUMMER ON TRESCO 

Time to be spoilt. With a short flight yet scenery that doesn’t seem of this 

country. With deserted beaches in the middle of August. With long days 

bookended by epic sunrises and sunsets. With all the island-hopping, 

clear-water kayaking, peaceful paddleboarding possibilities. 

FIND LATE AVAILABILITY AT TRESCO.CO.UK/SUMMER 

Tresco: 28 miles off the Cornish coast. Somewhere else altogether.



£6.95 


JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

PROOFREADER Karyn Noble 

COPYWRITER Natalie Millar-Partridge 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Sophie Farrah, Chantal Haines, Emma 

Henderson, Jane Knight, Natalie Paris, 

Rosie Underwood, Jessica Way 

SUMMER 2024 

Captivating 

Discover the 

Dual-cation 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

COASTLINES 


learn how to surf; and embrace 



Combine town and country 



JOURNAL 

The Nare Hotel, Cornwall 

Discover more in our coast-to-coast special, p24 

Published by 

A TASTE OF 

TILLINGHAM 


intervention vineyard rooted in 



and Peaks 



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CONTISTA MEDIA 

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All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either 

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the 

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

We like to have our finger on the pulse of travel 

trends here at British Travel Journal, and this 

summer we bring you ‘dual-cations’. These 

are the new staycations, where you don’t 

need to choose between city or country; you get the best of 

both worlds, with hotel collections teaming up with nearby 

properties to offer doubly enticing itineraries, and sister 

properties combining their city and country venues into one 

glorious weekend break. 

Head north to Durham and Cumbria for a unique 

dual break (p56), or perhaps mix a day of shopping and 

an evening of cocktails in London with a country mansion 

house, where you can walk amid 450 acres of deer-filled 

woods and kick back in a sublime spa (p37). In our coastto-coast 

special (p24), we feature three idyllic PoB Hotels as 

we travel through some of the UK's most gorgeous counties: 

Dorset, Devon and Cornwall. 

Gourmands in search of a gastronomical haven need 

look no further than the culinary delights of Woolsery – meet 

the tech millionaire who transformed this small village in 

Devon, introducing a renovated pub, a hotel, an organic 

farm, and a village shop (p30). 

No matter how you choose to travel, by visiting one 

destination-defining property, or connecting multiple 

locations into one seamless and extraordinary journey, we 

hope this edition of British Travel Journal ignites your sense 

of adventure and sparks your passion for travel across the 

British Isles this summer. 

@BritishTravelJournal 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

THE HOLLOWAY GARDEN THEATRE 

STRATFORD-UPON-AVON 

18 JULY – 1 SEPTEMBER 

Escape to 

The Forest of Arden 

this summer in our 

outdoor theatre 

IMAGE OF THE GARDEN THEATRE SHOWS THE 2021 PRODUCTION OF THE COMEDY OF ERRORS 

DIRECTED BY PHILLIP BREEN AND DESIGNED BY MAX JONES. PHOTO BY SAM ALLARD. 

THE HOLLOWAY GARDEN THEATRE IS GENEROUSLY SUPPORTED BY CHARLES HOLLOWAY

CONTENTS 

SUMMER 2024 | ISSUE 18 

24 

44 

FEATURES 

IN SEARCH OF THE SEA 

24 Travelling coast-to-coast, staying in three picture-perfect PoB 

Hotels, British Travel Journal goes in search of captivating coastlines, 

from the dramatic clifftops of Dorset’s Jurassic Coast to Cornwall’s 

subtropical-esque, Roseland Peninsula. 

THE SECRET INGREDIENT TO 

30 WOOLSERY’S CULINARY SUCCESS 

Meet the tech-millionaire who transformed the North Devon village 

of Woolsery with ‘The Collective', comprising a brilliantly revamped 

pub, beautifully designed rooms and cottages, a village shop and a 

gourmet fish ‘n’ chip takeaway. 

TOWN & COUNTRY 

36 From a smart riverside abode or a decadent townhouse to 

a rural red-brick mansion or a country manor house, here’s our pick 

of the best hotels that combine town and country for a memorable 

weekend break. 

66 

HAPPINESS IS FOUND IN A HIDDEN 

44 CORNISH BAY 

British Travel Journal takes a trip to the pretty fishing village of St Agnes, 

and discovers Trevaunance Cove, a dreamy spot to drift away, sip local 

cider and watch seals basking on the rocks. 

SPOTLIGHT ON ST IVES SURF SCHOOL 

52 Brave the Atlantic swell and reboot your mind with a wellness 

retreat hosted by Una St Ives, a relaxed resort consisting of a series of 

ecolodges located at the edge of Carbis Bay. 

NORTHERN NIGHTS 

56 Embrace the diversity of a ‘Dual-cation’, combining the 

sea and spa with a masterfully orchestrated Michelin-star dining 

experience and inventive cocktails. British Travel Journal heads north to 

Durham and Cumbria for an unforgettable dual-break. 

AN EXTRAORDINARY ESCAPE FOR ALL 

66 Discover The Tawny – described as a ‘deconstructed hotel’ 

nestled within the peaceful Staffordshire countryside, with unique 

accommodation set around stunning lakes, woodlands and gardens; 

from shepherd’s huts and treehouses to secluded cabins and 

waterfront retreats. 



E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

We won’t be venturing anywhere 

without the new Adventure Waterproof 

Backpack from Red! Now in a trio of 

fabulous colours, it’s perfect for hikers 

and lovers of the great outdoors – 

designed to withstand the elements, 

with its trusty rolltop closure providing 

watertight protection. The stylish 

backpack is also eco-conscious, built to 

last with recyclable materials, ethically 

designed and manufactured to reduce 

plastic waste. 

Priced £114.95; red-equipment.co.uk 

This summer, we’re excited to visit 

The Mermaid Garden, opening in the 

nautical town of Cowes on the Isle of 

Wight. With unrivalled views across 

The Solent, and perfectly positioned 

in front of the Island Sailing Club, 

the beautiful waterside garden is 

a collaboration between The Isle 

of Wight Distillery – producers of 

Mermaid Gin – and The Garden 

Cowes. Soak up all the summer vibes 

with live music, delicious food and the 

award-winning Mermaid collection, 

mixed into refreshing summer cocktails 

and classic G&Ts. 

To book, visit thegardencowes.com 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com 

AS NATURE INTENDED 

74 British Travel Journal visit Tillingham 

– a pioneering, low-intervention vineyard and 

holistically-managed farmstead rooted in the East 

Sussex countryside, producing natural wines and 

plot-to plate food, and with 11 stylish bedrooms. 

BETWEEN LOWLANDS 

80 AND PEAKS 

Loch Lomond hits the sweet spot, with its 

tranquil body of water dotted with captivating 

islands. Take time out to hike untamed peaks, 

brave the waters and laze on Luss’s shingle 

beach with a wee dram. 

TAKING THE SLOW ROAD 

86 British Travel Journal embraces the art 

of slow travel on a foodie-focussed road trip 

on the South West 660, hugging the south 

Devon coastline, where we discover pioneers of 

sustainable farming and fishing across the county. 

LUXURY SUMMER STAYS 

92 Embrace a little luxe living this 

summer and bed down at one of our gorgeous 

handpicked properties; from wellness and 

adventure to stunning gardens, coastal pads 

and dog-friendly abodes, British Travel Journal 

has you covered. 

64 

SUMMER 2024 

Captivating 

COASTLINES 


learnhow to surf and embrace 



Discover the 

Dualcation 

Combine Town & Country 



JOURNAL 


A TASTE OF 

TILLINGHAM 


intervention vineyard, rooted in 



and Peaks 



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JOTTINGS 

TRAVEL NEWS 

09 From self-catering and glamping to 

a revamped spa hotel and a chic farmhouse 

– soak up all the sunshine vibes this summer 

while staying up-to-date on the most exciting 

events, including DogFest Retreats for fourlegged 

friends. 

MATILDA THE MUSICAL 

23 British Travel Journal shines a spotlight 

on the multi-award-winning Matilda The 

Musical, adapted from the much-loved Roald 

Dahl book; a must-visit if you’re planning a 

trip to London this summer. 

COMPETITION TIME: 

64 LAID-BACK LUXURY 

The Signet Collection has teamed up with 

British Travel Journal to offer the chance to win 

an overnight stay with exceptional food and 

drink at one of three fabulous boutique hotels 

in Newbury, Surrey and Rutland. 

CLUES AND REVIEWS 

98 Challenge those holiday brains or 

while away sun-drenched hours by the pool 

with our summer book recommendations and 

crosswords. 

SUBSCRIBE TO BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL • 

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AGAZINES & FREE GIFT FOR 

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Find your special place 

From luxury contemporary barn conversions to charming 

thatched cottages, we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring 

you holiday memories to treasure. 

Westaway House, Trelights, Port Isaac 

A portfolio of 

over 800 luxury 

self-catering 

holiday properties 

across the UK 

01386 897 959 

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WHAT’S ON

Summer 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Have fun in the sun, whether you stay in a beach shack, a safari tent 

with its own gin school, a houseboat, or even a yellow submarine 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTEL NEWS 

GLAMPING 

SELF-CATERING 

EXPERIENCES 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 16 from page 18 

Pictured anticlockwise from top: Undercastle Cottage, New Forest; St Moritz Hotel, Cornwall; Meadow Field Glamping, 

Warwickshire; Undercastle Cottage, New Forest; Farne Islands, Northumberland

Hotel News 

LONDON 

The Beaumont 

As well as a room in an Antony Gormley 

sculpture, this London landmark of a hotel has 

now added a new wing. Some 29 additional 

rooms feature dark lacquer furniture, either a 

deep blue or ochre colour scheme, and Art-Deco 

lighting. Generous amounts of free snacks are 

included, and guests get complimentary use of 

the limo for local trips. The 101-room Beaumont 

has undergone a total update in the last few 

years, with the addition of Le Magritte Bar, 

with its alfresco dining terrace, in addition to 

the afternoon tea lounge and Champagne bar 

Gatsby’s Room. ◆ 

Rooms from £700 a night, with breakfast; 

thebeaumont.com 

CORNWALL 

St Moritz Hotel 

It already has the only Cowshed Spa in a hotel outside the Soho 

House collection. This summer, Trebetherick’s St Moritz Hotel also 

gains a sleek new wellness area following a multimillion pound 

investment. It includes a swimming pool, an outdoor hydro pool, a 

sauna and steam room, along with ice fountains and multisensory 

showers in Miami-inspired interiors. ◆ 

Rooms from £140, with breakfast; stmoritzhotel.co.uk 

NORFOLK 

Nest Farmhouse 

If you like London restaurants The Nest and Michelin-starred St Barts, 

check out their new country cousin, on a 1,000-acre farm in North 

Norfolk. This restaurant, in a former cattle shed with just six rooms, 

channels a chic New England vibe. From the bread to the ice cream, 

everything on the seasonal British menu is made in-house. ◆ 

Rooms from £180 a night, with breakfast; nestfarmhouse.co.uk 

10 BritishTravelJournal.com

WILTSHIRE 

Great Bustard 

You don’t have to be a twitcher to appreciate this gorgeous pub, which, 

after a major refurb, now features ten rooms all named after birds 

successfully reintroduced to the UK. The pub shares its name with the 

endangered bird now found in the area. 

Rooms from £200 a night, with breakfast; thegreatbustard.uk 

DERBYSHIRE 

The Cavendish 

We’ve long been fans of the Duke and 

Duchess of Devonshire’s beautiful hotel on 

the Chatsworth Estate. Now it’s got even 

better following an extensive refurbishment by 

acclaimed designer Nicola Harding. She has 

drawn on elements from the nearby stately 

home, the personal story of the Devonshire 

family and the surrounding Derbyshire 

countryside to redesign the 28-room hotel. 

Rooms feature antique furniture, stone fireplaces 

and punches of colour, as well as countryside 

views across the estate. Art from the family’s 

private collection is on show everywhere, not to 

mention historic family photographs in the bar. ◆ 

Rooms from £200 a night, with breakfast; 

devonshirehotels.co.uk 

Editor loves 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Arlington House Hotel 

Handy if you want to walk the 62.5-mile St Cuthbert's Way, 

this stylish little hotel has just opened in Wooler, which 

is on the trail. The seven-room property is well placed to 

visit Berwick and Alnwick and is a 30-minute drive from 

Northumberland’s beautiful beaches. It’s self-check-in, and 

guests stay on a room-only basis. ◆ 

Rooms from £80 a night; 

arlingtonhousehotel.bookeddirectly.com 


HAMPSHIRE 

New Park Manor 

The latest of the Luxury Family Hotels to benefit from a 

refurbishment, this former royal hunting lodge has been redesigned 

using inspiration from the surrounding New Forest. New in the spa 

are meditation pods and ‘Little Ishga’ treatments for children as 

young as three, and there are outdoor hot tubs too. 

Rooms from £165, with breakfast; luxuryfamilyhotels.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

House of Gods, Glasgow 

Forget minimalism – it’s all about maximalism 

at this extravagant hotel, a sister property 

to the House of Gods, Edinburgh. From 

the handpainted 24-karat embellished de 

Gournay wallpaper in the lobby bar to the 

marble fountain in the rooftop restaurant and 

bar inspired by the Garden of Eden, this hotel 

overflows with opulence. One of the room 

categories features a four-poster bed and 

golden bathtub, while the two presidential Rock 

Star suites come with private cinemas, en-suites 

with twin baths, and his-and-her shower rooms. 

Even the smallest cabin rooms are special, with 

oak panelling and an Orient-Express feel. ◆ 

Rooms from £119, with breakfast; 

houseofgodshotel.com 

CUMBRIA 

The Brackenrigg Inn 

Stay in the inn and use all the facilities of stylish 

sister hotel Another Place, just down the road. The 

seven-room gastropub has colourful contemporary 

rooms, chunky Chesterfields, antique furnishings, and 

views across Ullswater. Another three restaurants can 

be found at Another Place, along with a pool, 

an outdoor hot tub, and paddle-boarding. Take the 

dog and your walking boots. ◆ 

Rooms from £180, with breakfast; another.place 


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Glamping 

DEVON 

Perry Pond 

The name tells you about the pond just in front 

of this romantic bolthole for two; what it doesn’t 

make reference to is the stream that trickles 

along the garden, with a small waterfall right 

by the firepit area. It makes the perfect place for 

some evening stargazing, as does the outside 

bath on the deck. Listen for the hoot of owls or 

the rutting of deer. Inside, it’s just as special, 

with plenty of warm oranges and soft blues, 

along with other Indian-inspired details, such 

as the doorway to the bedroom, and the bed 

headboard. ◆ 

From £152 a night for two; 

canopyandstars.co.uk 

WARWICKSHIRE 

Meadow Field Glamping 

If you like a G&T or two when you’re camping, what about making 

your own brew at the new gin school on this 500-acre farm near 

Rugby, which is home to two safari-style tents. The Rugby Distillery 

even uses botanicals from the pitch where William Webb Ellis first 

picked up the ball and ran with it. ◆ 

Two nights for six from £379; meadowfieldglamping.co.uk 

SOMERSET 

Yellow Submarine 

Embrace your inner child and live in a yellow submarine for a 

weekend at Petruth Paddocks campsite. A converted lifeboat, 

it sleeps four and comes with plenty of buttons, dials, and real 

portholes. There are a few extras, too, such as a giant octopus 

detector, a shark-warning system, and anti-whale-bump 

technology. You know what you’ll be singing – altogether now… ◆ 

Two nights for four from £318; yellowsubmarineglamping.com 


THE COTSWOLDS 

Bredon View 

With the feel of modern Hobbit homes, these glamping pods are 

integrated into the earth, with turf roofs. Outside, each has a 

wood-fired hot tub, a BBQ and firepit, while beneath the curved 

roof is a king-sized bed, a sofabed and a kitchenette. 

From £185 a night for four; bredonviewglamping.com 

WALES 

Y Caban 

Cabins don’t come much cosier than this wood 

one, in the rolling hills of Carmarthenshire 

just outside the small village of Login (no, we 

didn’t make that up). With warm woody tones 

everywhere and a wood burner for cool evenings, 

this former artist’s residence also comes with its 

own guitar. There’s a farm shop for supplies to 

cook in the kitchen and outside on the BBQ, or 

plenty of local restaurants and bars if you don’t 

feel like cooking. Take your walking boots; there 

are plenty of footpaths from the door, and the 

Preseli Mountains are ten miles away. ◆ 

From £128 a night for four; 

canopyandstars.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Houseboats at Taymouth Marina 

Fall asleep to the gentle rocking motion of the waves 

in a houseboat moored in this marina on the shores 

of Perthshire’s Loch Tay. With rooftop terraces and 

outdoor dining areas, the modern houseboats also 

have ladders that lead directly into the water for wild 

swimming. They sleep just two people… did anyone 

mention The Love Boat? ◆ 

From £360 for two nights for two; 

taymouthmarina.com 


Self-Catering 

NEW FOREST 

Undercastle Cottage 

As if this thatched, chocolate-box cottage 

on the banks of the Hampshire Avon weren’t 

idyllic enough, its owners have joined forces 

with a local nature enthusiast so guests can 

see badgers from a hide (there have only been 

three no-show evenings in a year). By day, look 

out for ponies and deer from the sun terrace, 

or watch wild otters on the river. Fishing folk 

can cast a line in the water; there’s the option 

of private tuition. The country-chic cottage has 

two bedrooms and is let with the one-bedroom 

Fishing Lodge. ◆ 

Three-night breaks from £1,600 for six, with 

one night in the Hide; undercastlecottage.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Nuthatch Manor 

Live it up in the former family home of the 10th Duke and Duchess 

of Buccleuch in Scotland’s Drumfries and Galloway. There are 11 

bathrooms to go with its 11 elegant bedrooms, plus a sauna, a library 

and a games room. If you want a touch more grandeur, Drumlanrig 

Castle is just a ten-minute drive away. ◆ 

From £1,620 a night for 24; luxurycottages.com 

SUFFOLK 

Suffolk Wilderness Reserve 

Waterside stays don’t get much more perfect than this – after rowing 

around a private lake, relax in the on-deck hot tub between spells in 

the sauna and steam room. Tin Lizzy, which comes with a tin roof, is 

one of four lake houses added on this 8,000-acre estate. Guests also 

have use of Pashley bicycles and an electric BMW. ◆ 

From £796 a night for four; wildernessreserve.com 


NORFOLK 

IMAGE © UNIQUE HOMESTAYS 

Nyssa 

Want to keep doing those downward-dog poses on holiday? 

This converted barn comes with its own yoga studio as well 

as an ice bath, a sauna and hot tub. The rooms are pretty 

gorgeous too, in a neutral palette to keep your spirit serene. 

From £2,995 a week for eight; uniquehomestays.com 

CORNWALL 

Three Mile Beach 

When this luxury beach-house development 

opened two years ago a short stroll from 

Gwithian Beach in south Cornwall, there 

was only one problem: the three- and fourbedroom 

houses didn’t work for smaller 

families. Cue a handful of two-bedroom 

beach shacks, sleeping up to three adults and 

an additional child. These ‘shacks’ come with 

a sunken cedarwood hot tub and barrel sauna 

outside, while within, white wooden walls 

provide the background for eclectic artworks 

and colourful textiles. You can cook in your 

own kitchen, book a private chef, eat in the 

outdoor restaurant, or buy a DIY pizza kit. ◆ 

From £619 for three nights; 

threemilebeach.co.uk 

DORSET 

Mapperton House 

The family seat of the Earl of Sandwich is already open 

to day visitors on guided tours. Now, on certain weeks 

of the year, you can also hire the whole manor for a very 

upmarket house party. Elegant interiors feature ornate 

ceilings and fireplaces, wood panelling and four posters; 

there are nine bedrooms with eight bathrooms. ◆ 

From £2,000 a night for 15; mapperton.com 


Experiences 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Farne Islands 

It’s been two years since visitors to the Farne 

Islands, off the coast of Northumberland, were 

able to land on Inner Farne. Now the threat 

of avian flu is reduced, landings are again 

permitted on the island where St Cuthbert 

spent the latter part of his life and died in 

687AD. It’s not just a spiritual pilgrimage – 

visitors flock here for the tens of thousands of 

birds that make it their home, including the 

puffins, which breed on the island from May to 

July. Other birdlife includes terns, guillemots 

and shags. Grey seals ply the waters. ◆ 

Three-hour excursions from £30pp; 

farneislandstours.co.uk 

IMAGE © NATIONAL TRUST/PAUL HARRIS 

CHANNEL ISLANDS 

Islands of Guernsey 

To celebrate the 80th anniversary of the D-day landings, Guernsey is 

opening some of its German bunkers that are normally closed to the 

public at certain events. It has also developed five new historical routes 

on the Visit Guernsey app. Aurigny airline has five new flight routes from 

Britain, or take a flight-free break with Byway. ◆ 

Seven-day trip from £680pp with rail and ferry crossing; trip.byway.travel 

HAMPSHIRE 

18 BritishTravelJournal.com 

DogFest Retreats at Pylewell Park 

Retreats aren’t just for humans – now four-legged guests can also 

take part in everything from guided moonlight walks to dog-friendly 

yoga and grooming. Pampered pooches and their parents can book 

into new three-day retreats from the DogFest festival organisers at 

13-room Pylewell Park in the New Forest with ‘Dogtor’ Adem Fehmi, a 

top canine behavioural therapist. ◆ 

Three-day retreat including two nights’ B&B, two lunches and 

one dinner from £845pp starting 23 September and 7 October; 

retreats.dogfest.co.uk

STAY • EAT • CELEBRATE 

Discover the very best of Scotland 

this summer with Collins 

Available from all good bookshops and online at collins.co.uk

LONDON 

IMAGE © P&CO.LTD / SC 2024 

The Paddington Bear Experience 

Marmalade sandwiches at the ready – this interactive experience 

at County Hall immerses visitors on an adventure featuring some 

of the Peruvian bear’s haunts, including Paddington Station, and 

the Brown family home. The adventure culminates with a very 

special street party celebrating the Marmalade Day Festival. 

Adult tickets from £32.50, children from £24.50; 

paddingtonbearexperience.com 

NEW FOREST 

Lime Wood Retreats 

Experience the therapeutic benefits of painting 

in one of a series of Re-Root retreats, events 

and workshops designed to help guests at Lime 

Wood country house hotel connect to nature in 

different ways. The art retreat, from 8 to 10 July, 

includes tuition for both beginners and seasoned 

artists from the Arniano Painting School’s William 

Roper-Curzon. Meanwhile, a one-night retreat 

in November with writer and broadcaster Alice 

Vincent will focus on rebalancing the soul through 

morning swims, sound bathing, mindful walks 

and forest foraging. One-day retreats in the New 

Forest will also be held in June and October. ◆ 

Two-night art retreat from £1,565pp with 

painting classes and all food and drink; 

limewoodhotel.co.uk 

YORKSHIRE 

Bikepacking Dirt Dash 

It might just be the best fun you’ve ever had behind two 

handlebars. The 95-mile Yorkshire Coast Dirt Dash is 

designed to bring off-road cyclists together. By day, enjoy 

the scenery, which winds through the North York Moors 

National Park and the Yorkshire Wolds. At night, there’s 

overnight camping with dinner and breakfast, where you 

can bond with fellow cyclists. ◆ 

Entry £95; entrycentral.com/dirtdash 


3032-Half-Page-Britain-Ad-202x129mm-AW.indd 1 07/07/2023 14:45 

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SPECIAL FEATURE 

MATILDA THE MUSICAL 

ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY 

Inspired by the beloved book by the incomparable Roald Dahl 

IMAGES © MANUEL HARLAN 

The multi-award-winning musical 

adapted from the much-loved 

Roald Dahl book has won over 

100 international awards, 

including 24 for Best Musical. 

With book by Dennis Kelly and original 

songs by Tim Minchin, Matilda The Musical 

is the story of an extraordinary little girl, 

armed with a vivid imagination and a sharp 

mind, who dares to take a stand and change 

her own destiny. 

A tonic for audiences of all ages, this 

anarchic production continues Roald Dahl's 

theme of bravery and standing up for what 

you believe in, inspiring young audiences all 

over the world. 

The West End production is currently 

playing to audiences in the Cambridge 

Theatre on the corner of Earlham Street 

facing Seven Dials. Your visit to London this 

summer just isn’t complete without a trip to 

experience Matilda The Musical. ◆ 

HOW TO BOOK TICKETS 

Matilda The Musical is taking 

bookings now, with excellent 

availability mid-week throughout 

the summer holidays. Tickets 

priced from £20. 

Call 020 3925 2998 to book. 

For the full performance 

schedule visit the website: 

matildathemusical.com 


IN SEARCH 

of the Sea 

British Travel Journal goes coast-to-coast with PoB Hotels, travelling 

across three of the UK’s most beautiful counties in search of their 

captivating coastlines, and some very special places to stay 

Text by Sophie Farrah 

unique hotels dotted across the British Isles. Whether you’re a 

food fanatic, a culture vulture, a history buff or nature lover, 

its themed itineraries and curated breaks are designed to 

showcase the very best of an area, while staying at a selection 

of PoB’s beautiful properties along the way. 

My coastal adventure began in Dorset, home to dramatic 

cliff-edged bays, charming seaside towns, and a historic 

coastline studded with fossils. I checked into the fairytaleesque 

Priory Hotel in the market town of Wareham. 

Tucked away behind a hefty wooden door and a pretty, 

cobbled stone courtyard, this picture-perfect hotel has 17 

luxurious bedrooms and a captivating sense of history. Set 

on the banks of the River Frome, the Grade II* listed building 

dates back to as early as 809. Lovingly owned and run by the 

Merchant family and filled with antiques and characterful 

details, it exudes both elegance and cosy charm. 

In the summer months there’s nothing quite like being 

by the sea, and the UK is blessed with some of the most 

staggeringly beautiful coastline that there is. 

With the sun shining and the sea calling, I packed 

my swimming costume and embarked on PoB Hotels’ 

Coast-to-Coast break; a tailored escape that covers three 

beautiful counties and takes in some of the South West’s most 

picturesque beaches. 

Formed in 1982 by a small group of British hoteliers, 

PoB represent a carefully handpicked collection of over 50 


Here, I swam in the gentle turquoise waters of Lulworth 

Cove, marvelled at the vast limestone arch that is Durdle 

Door, and walked for miles along the world-famous shingle 

of Chesil Beach. 

Back in the cocoon of The Priory, I enjoyed a well-earned 

glass of fizz and some delicious canapés in the hotel’s 

candlelit bar. Dinner is served in the newest part of the hotel – 

a sleek, contemporary space with wraparound windows and 

gorgeous views. 

Overlooking the beautifully kept English cottage gardens 

and twinkling river beyond, I checked into the Kingfisher suite 

– a sumptuous space with a high-vaulted beamed ceiling, 

private terrace and a super-king bed draped in lavish fabrics. 

Tempted as I was by the luxurious Jacuzzi bath, it was time to 

hit the beach. 

Just 20 minutes from the hotel lies Dorset’s famous 

Jurassic Coast – a 95-mile-long stretch of staggering 

coastline and a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for 

its outstanding rocks, fossils and landforms. 


Service is warm and traditional, and the sophisticated 

menu is laden with indulgence, from caviar and local lobster 

to whole Dover sole, studded with herbs from the garden and 

expertly filleted at the table. 

serene journeys on the River Frome out into Poole Harbour, 

and along the remarkable Jurassic coastline. Armed with a 

delicious picnic handmade by the hotel, I settled into one of 

the boat’s luxurious cushioned seats and enjoyed a gentle 

cruise through picturesque countryside. 

The following morning, a stunning yacht that wouldn’t 

look out of place in Saint-Tropez was waiting for me on the 

hotel’s private moorings. In partnership with The Boat Club, 

a premium boat membership and charter company, The 

Priory can organise private cruises for its guests, including 


‘ 

Family owned for over 125 years and home to 65 rooms and suites (many 

with sea views and private balconies), this breezy, beachside hotel... sits in 

prime position for exploring the many delights of South Devon, including 

the nearby harbour towns of Salcombe and Dartmouth 

’ 

My next destination was Devon; the only county in England 

with two separate coastlines – one north and one south. I set a 

course for the latter and made a beeline for Thurlestone Hotel, 

where I was greeted by dramatic, far-reaching sea views and 

some of the most delicious scones I’ve ever tasted. 

Family owned for over 125 years and home to 65 rooms 

and suites (many with sea views and private balconies), this 

breezy, beachside hotel has a par 3 golf course, tennis courts, 

19 acres of beautiful gardens, a kids' club and more. It also 

sits in prime position for exploring the many delights of South 

Devon, including the nearby harbour towns of Salcombe and 

Dartmouth. 

Less than a 10-minute stroll later, I was happily floating 

in the calm blue waters of Yarmer Beach; a small, sandy cove 

hidden behind rolling sand dunes. Devon’s famous South 

Milton Sands is nearby too; a long sweep of golden beach 

well known for its crystal-clear waters, staggering sunsets, 

and the impressive Thurlestone Rock archway, which you can 

see from the hotel. 

That afternoon, I luxuriated in the hotel’s beautiful 

Voyage Spa; a serene space with light, modern interiors 

inspired by the golden age of ocean-liner travel. Home to 

a sleek swimming pool, thermal suites and more, the hotel 


also has a good choice of treatments on offer, including an 

excellent ELEMIS facial. In the summer months, guests can 

also enjoy Thurlestone’s lovely outdoor pool, overlooking 

both sea and countryside. 

That evening, I took a seat on the hotel’s elegant terrace 

and, with a very good cocktail in hand, watched as the sun 

set and the summer sky turned pastel pink over the glassy 

waves below. Heaven in Devon indeed. 

My third and final destination took me further west and 

into Cornwall. Just south of Truro on the Roseland Peninsula, 

I found myself on a pretty winding road heading towards the 

sea. Just moments before driving straight into it, I turned into 

the driveway of The Nare Hotel. 

Privately owned by the Ashworth family for over 30 years, 

this unique ‘country house hotel by the sea’ is surrounded 

by subtropical gardens and the sweeping golden sands of 

Carne Beach. Looking up at the silhouettes of swaying palms 

against the blue summer sky, it felt more like the Caribbean 

than Cornwall. 

Crossing the hotel’s polished brass threshold, I could see 

twinkling sea through every window, and felt a deep sense 

of comfort set in. I stayed in one of the hotel’s Whittington 

Suites – a beautifully designed seaside haven adorned with 

luxurious fabrics, antique furniture, patterned wallpaper 

and sliding glass doors perfectly framing the blue expanse 

beyond. Along with the luxury of a private terrace, pleasing 

details included fresh flowers, Penhaligon's toiletries and a 

glistening decanter filled with port. A home-from-home may 

sound like a cliché, but in the case of The Nare, it’s true. 

I strolled along the vast, unspoilt beach, just metres from 

my bedroom. Passing the hotel’s tennis court, I popped into 

the small spa for a dip in the indoor pool (there is a stunning 

outdoor one too), followed by a soothing soak in the spacious 

hot tub, which sits in prime position looking out to sea. 


‘ 

I strolled along the vast, unspoilt beach, just metres from my bedroom.. 

Passing the hotel’s tennis court, I popped into the small spa for a dip in the 

indoor pool (there is a stunning outdoor one too), followed by a soothing soak 

in the spacious hot tub, which sits in prime position overlooking the beach. 

’ 

Before dinner, I met The Nare’s proprietor, Toby 

Ashworth, who comes from a long line of Cornish hoteliers. 

A warm and welcoming host, he is often found chatting with 

guests in the hotel’s charming bar and homely, art-filled 

lounge areas. 

With wraparound sea views, the hotel’s dining room is a 

classic silver-service affair. The indulgent, five-course table 

d'hôte menu changes every evening and includes a fabulous 

hors doeuvres trolley, gueridon-served flambés, and an 

abundance of fresh seafood and West Country cheeses. 

The dessert trolley, laden with several layers of plump 

puddings, beautiful cakes, tarts, and lashings of Cornish 

clotted cream, was an unforgettable treat. 

It’s easy to see why so many guests return to The 

Nare year after year. The experience is reassuringly 

traditional (not to be confused with old-fashioned), 

incredibly comfortable and deeply luxurious. Countless 

well-considered touches include a midmorning breakfast 

for ‘late risers’, a sumptuous daily afternoon tea (included 

in the room rate), and a chauffeur service that can collect 

guests from anywhere in the country. The hotel also has its 

very own boat – a beautiful, locally built, wooden motor 

launch called Alice Rose, and this summer sees the opening 

of The Nare’s new seafood restaurant, bar, and several 

suites, including one with a private sea-view hot tub. 

I began my final morning with a swim in the sea. I dried 

off in the sunshine while tucking into a breakfast of warm 

pastries, fresh local fruit, and fragrant kedgeree. Just when 

I thought life couldn’t get much better, a pod of playful 

dolphins appeared in the bay. Not only was it a beautiful 

sight, but a suitable end to my unforgettable coast-to-coast 

adventure spent by the sea. 

Room rates (per night) at The Priory Hotel start from £230, 

Thurlestone Hotel from £295 and The Nare from £416. For more 

details on PoB Hotels’ curated breaks, visit pobhotels.com 


THE SECRET 

INGREDIENT TO WOOLSERY'S 

Culinary Success 

Discover the story of a tech millionaire who transformed the village of 

Woolsery into a gastronomical haven, with a renovated pub, 

an organic farm, a hotel, and a village shop, all owned by one man 


Stein has fingers in so many pies, it’s known as Padstein. It’s 

more the kind of place you’d drive through to get somewhere 

else, except that it’s not on the road to anywhere in particular. 

Yet this out-of-the way place, which also goes by 

the virtually unpronounceable Anglo-Saxon name of 

Woolfardisworthy, is getting quite a reputation for itself as 

a foodie escape. Gourmands are beating a trail down the 

When you arrive in the little village of Woolsery, 

population 1,100, you wonder if you’ve 

reached the right place. Just three miles from 

gorgeous Clovelly, which tumbles down the 

wild North Devon shoreline, Woolsery might have a quaint 

medieval church but it’s never going to win any prizes for 

Britain’s prettiest village. Nor does it have the charisma of 

Padstow further down the coast in Cornwall, where chef Rick 


‘ 

He is British tech millionaire Michael Birch, who made his fortune in 2008 

by selling his social networking site Bebo for $850 million. 

’ 

M5 to eat at the revamped Farmers Arms; since last summer, 

they have been able to stay in The Collective at Woolsery’s 

beautifully designed rooms and cottages in the village too. 

It doesn’t stop there: The Collective also comprises 

a village shop with post office, a gourmet fish ‘n’ chip 

takeaway, a 150-acre organic farm, and Wulfheard Manor, 

which is being converted into a hotel. And it’s all owned by 

one man. 

He is British tech millionaire Michael Birch, who made 

his fortune in 2008 by selling his social networking site Bebo 

for $850 million, and who now lives in San Francisco with his 

wife and Bebo cofounder, Xochi: a computer programmer 

and entrepreneur. Yet he hasn’t forgotten his family roots and 

Devonshire heritage. 

“My great-grandfather built the village store and my 

grandmother was born in one of the rooms above it,” Birch, 

53, tells me on the phone from his holiday home in the British 

Virgin Islands. “I loved Woolsery as a child. For me, it was 

always the place that represented family.” 

It was when his sister called him in America to tell him that 

the Farmers Arms might be turned into flats by developers 

after the collapse of its thatched roof that he decided to buy it. 

“The pub is the heart of the village,” he says simply. 

Four long years of renovation followed his 2014 purchase, 

during which time the owners of the adjacent takeaway and 


the modern convenience store with post office across the 

road approached him to see if he was interested in buying 

them too. The project grew, masterminded in the UK by Emily 

Harmon, who had previously set up Birch’s private members 

club in San Francisco, as well as developing his Sonoma 

ranch and winery, and his BVI home. 

Recognising, though, that Woolsery wasn’t “on a drivethrough 

route, or on anyone’s radar”, Harmon decided that 

The Collective could only survive as a business if it aimed for 

people’s stomachs. 

They’ve really hit the bulls-eye. In the buzzy pub with 

open fire and beams, my friend and I sit in a wooden booth 

with sheepskin rugs thrown over the backs of the seats and 

wall-mounted cows’ heads looking down on us. If we find 

them a little offputting to start with, we’re soon distracted by 

the unusual menu. 

Dishes such as goat's cheese salad and Birch Farm 

hogget are accompanied by pickled farm veg and fermented 

cabbage, alongside a smattering of nettles, ramson, lavender 

and juniper. It’s farm-to-fork at its finest, along with foraged, 

pickled and preserved ingredients, which give everything a 

real depth of flavour. 

And it all tastes so good. My friend proclaims her fishcake 


‘ 

Meat comes courtesy of the rare heritage animals cared for by livestock manager 

Chris Jenn, who is one of Birch’s distant relations (others work in the shop). 

’ 

the best she’s ever had, with whole chunks of monkfish and 

scallops rather than the usual mash of fish, while I love the 

mushroom parfait with chanterelle and dulse. It’s a battle 

of the spoons to see who gets most of the sea buckthorn 

tart – a new flavour to us both, and beautifully accompanied 

by hibiscus, pink peppercorn and sweet cicely. There are 

homemade cordials and cocktails to go with it all, from 

spiced orange and pumpkin cordial to crab apple bramble, 

with apple gin, rosehip and mint. 

The man behind the taste is Ian Webber, a former chef at 

Gidleigh Park who prides himself on taking a simple dish and 

making a superior version of it, layering flavour upon flavour 

in the process. “We pickle, preserve and ferment using all 

those techniques that have largely been lost,” he says. 

His secret weapon is Birch Farm on the village outskirts, 

which supplies the majority of his ingredients. Meat comes 

courtesy of the rare heritage animals cared for by livestock 

manager Chris Jenn, who is one of Birch’s distant relations 

(others work in the shop). And fresh produce comes from the 

organic market garden, where Josh Sparkes runs the show. 

Based on Japanese and Dutch ideas of sustainable 

farming, the market garden is a fascinating place to look 

around. Traditional weeds, such as dandelions and nettles, 

are left as cover crops and later used in restaurant dishes; 

an ‘edible forest’ is growing with seven layers of vegetation 

for managed foraging; and alternative crops, such as lemon 

geranium, replace a reliance on imported citrus fruit. 

The storeroom is particularly interesting, with row after 

row of jars holding unusual ingredients, such as pineapple 

weed vinegar or mugwort syrup. It feels like we’re eyeing 

items for a Hogwarts herbology lesson rather than supplies 

for a restaurant kitchen. 


Sparkes, who is passionate about using alternative 

products, works closely with Webber to supply produce for an 

interesting menu. Right now, he’s particularly pleased that he 

has convinced the chef to use a natural replacement for sugar 

in some of his desserts. “I’ve been badgering him for two 

years to use pheasant berry and it’s now in his apple pie,” he 

says. “He knows how to cook it to get rid of the burnt caramel 

aftertaste.” 

Farm produce is also sold in the village shop, named 

J Andrew after Birch’s great-grandfather, and now a very 

polished version of ye olde village store. Even the fish ‘n’ chip 

shop benefits from Sparkes’s labour; beetroot leaves are used 

in the veggie burger sold there. 

My friend and I order one of these along with some fish 

on our second night, and devour them along with a bottle of 

wine from the shop back at our cottage, one of three owned 

by The Collective. Like the four rooms above the shop, they 

have been beautifully designed under Harmon’s careful 

instruction. “I’m obsessed with interior design,” she tells 

me. “I love texture and colour.” 

It shows. Bold vintage wallpapers are complemented by 

heritage fabrics you can’t help running your hands 

over, bedrooms might feature a fabric headboard or a 

delicate petal lamp, and some bathrooms have a modern 

interpretation of a rolltop bath. The look is “fun period 

country vibe done very elegantly,” says Birch. 

One of the cottages, with its beams and statement 

breakfast bar in the kitchen diner, has a wood-burning 

stove in its bedroom, ideal for romantic couples. Ours is the 

four-bedroom Hillside Cottage, where the beamed master 

bedroom comes with an enormous fabric bed, peacocks on 

the wallpaper, and a roof terrace outside. 

Downstairs, the open kitchen/sitting room has all 

the goodies, including a Sage coffee-maker and Miele 

‘ 

Farm produce is also sold in the village shop, named J Andrew after Birch’s 

great-grandfather, and now a very polished version of ye olde village store. 

’ 


dishwasher; there’s also a laundry room with a washer and 

dryer. It makes for an elevated kind of self-catering, with 

bathrobes, hairdryers, an iron and a steamer as well as daily 

housekeeping and an evening turndown service. 

In the morning, breakfast arrives in a wicker hamper. 

Don’t expect your usual fry up here. Options include nettle 

and ramson fritter with a side serving of spiced fermented 

vegetables, and potato cake with thyme butter and smoked 

dulse. Together with honey porridge, yogurt and fruit, they 

make a surprisingly delicious feast. 

It sets us up beautifully for a walk along North Devon’s 

wild coast, once frequented by smugglers. We start at Bucks 

Mills, where a sign tells us the old harbour was built in 1598 

by a certain Richard Cole of Woolfardisworthy. He was 

possibly the Old King Cole of the nursery rhyme (whether it’s 

true or not, his tomb and effigy are in Woolsery’s All Hallows 

Church, where many of Birch’s relatives are buried). From 

Bucks Mills, it’s a three-hour round trip along the coast to the 

beach at Peppercombe. We’re tantalisingly close to Lundy 

Island with its puffin colony too, but we don’t have time to 

make the two-hour crossing from Bideford. 

Luckily, there’s an excuse to return to Woolsery and 

to make the excursion then – Wulfheard Manor is being 

converted into an 18-room hotel as the final part of The 

Collective. Although work is taking longer than originally 

planned, it should be completed in another two years. 

At that stage, The Collective should finally become 

“cash-flow positive”, says Birch, who declines to say how 

much money he’s pumped into the project to date. 

“It has always been a passion project,” he says. “I care 

a lot about Woolsery – what it is and what it becomes.” He 

adds that he and Xochi aim to visit for longer periods once 

their youngest son, currently 15, leaves home. His name tells 

you everything you need to know about how much Birch loves 

this little corner of the world. It’s Devon. 

Rooms cost from £275 a night year-round; the largest cottage, 

which sleeps eight, is £750. A hamper breakfast costs £15pp; 

woolsery.com 


TOWN & 

COUNTRY 

Can’t decide between the two? 

Why not combine both in one 

glorious weekend break… 


Talk about the perfect weekend. First, a day of shopping 

in London’s Peter Jones and Harvey Nichols, followed 

by a catch up with a friend over sushi and Champagne 

and a night in boutique Beaverbrook Town House. 

Next, day, I was driven an hour south to Beaverbrook 

itself, the Surrey Hills country mansion that press baron Lord 

Beaverbrook called home. Here, amid 450 acres with deer-filled 

woods and a fishing lake, a sublime spa day awaited. 

If you can’t decide between a town or a country break, why 

not combine both? An increasing number of British hotels now 

have sister properties allowing you to do just that. Here’s our pick 

of the best that combine both capital and the country.

THE SIGNET COLLECTION 

THE MITRE, HAMPTON COURT, SURREY 

AND THE RETREAT AT ELCOT PARK, 

BERKSHIRE 

70-MINUTE DRIVE 

Town 

The Mitre, Hampton Court, Surrey 

The riverside setting and free parking might not 

give The Mitre the feel of a London hotel, but you 

can use your Oyster card to get here from Waterloo 

– it’s still within zone 6. Commissioned by Charles II 

to house overspill guests for Hampton Court Palace 

across the road, the hotel now includes free palace 

entry for its guests. 

A relaxed riverside air pervades within, where 

you’ll find a complimentary tipple waiting at checkin, 

a retro jukebox in the library, and the choice of 

hiring a boat to explore the river or just sipping a 

drink on the terrace. 

I could gaze at the views of The Thames from 

a window seat at the riverside rotunda for hours. 

The lower level houses the hotel’s atmospheric 1665 

Brasserie (I recommend the teriyaki cauliflower 

popcorn and creamed wild mushroom pappardelle), 

while upstairs, the Boat House bar with a roof like a 

circus tent doubles as a breakfast venue. 

Colourful bedrooms with opulent fabrics are 

squirrelled away down a warren of corridors. They’re 

all lovely, their pops of colour showcasing designer 

Nicola Harding at her best. But if you’re a light 

sleeper, be aware of traffic noise in the rooms at the 

front; this is London, after all. 

Country 

The Retreat at Elcot Park, Berkshire 

The joy of this rural hotel in Newbury, Berkshire, 

is that you can expect all the trappings of a posh 

hotel – swanky spa, whisky library, tennis court, 

delicious restaurant and even a helipad – without the 

accompanying price tag. 

Nor is there a stuffy feel to this former home of 

Percy Bysshe Shelley’s mum. In fact, it’s all rather 

fun, with complimentary pantries to raid, a welcome 

glass of wine during check-in, and special times in the 

open-air pool with inflatables for kids. The hotel even 

gives away ten tickets a day to nearby Highclere, of 

Downton Abbey fame. 

There are plenty of places for lounging around, 

from the Atlas Room to the chilled courtyard area and 

its coffee shop, wine cellar and hair salon. 

Up the sweep of a staircase lie beautifully 

designed bedrooms with a modern English feel, bright 

fabrics and William Morris wallpaper. 

You can eat in the relaxed 1722 brasserie (the year 

the house was built), but I’d recommend pushing the 

boat out in the Pan-Asian Yu restaurant, where we 

couldn’t get enough of the sea-fresh sushi, gyoza, 

crispy squid, cauliflower popcorn and teriyaki beef. 

Go on, treat yourself – you’ve saved on the room price, 

after all. 

Rooms from £190 at The Mitre and £204 at 

The Retreat at Elcot Park, both with breakfast; 

mitrehamptoncourt.com, retreatelcotpark.com 


BEAVERBROOK 

BEAVERBROOK TOWN HOUSE, CHELSEA, 

AND BEAVERBROOK, SURREY 

ONE HOUR’S DRIVE 

Town 

Beaverbrook Town House, Chelsea 

There’s theatre everywhere you look in this gorgeous 

Sloane Street bolthole, starting with the names of 

the 14 suites. From The Garrick to The Old Vic, they 

all reference London theatres, their walls awash with 

posters and programmes. 

Drama in the decor comes courtesy of Nicola 

Harding, who has combined bold colours and fabrics 

in rooms with canopied or four-poster beds; where 

televisions pop out of ottomans, and velvet sofas 

rub shoulders with antique desks. Eye-catching 

bathrooms with bright blue and aquamarine tiles 

have both a tub and a shower. Even the smallest 

rooms are large for London and come with a drinks 

trolley and a range of complimentary snacks as well 

as a key to Cadogan Place gardens. 

Downstairs, the drama is dialled up in the buzzy 

bar, with its rainbow of colours and comfy sofas, 

copper-top bar and red-leather booths reminiscent 

of a train carriage. It opens onto the matcha-green 

Fuji Grill, where we feasted on the freshest of sushi, 

sashimi and popcorn shrimp (there’s also a set 

omakase meal). Just keep your eye on the prices so 

paying the bill doesn’t turn into a performance – 

sashimi is £7 a slice. 

Country 

Beaverbrook, Surrey 

As full of character as its former owner, Lord 

Beaverbrook, this wedding cake of a hotel in the 

Surrey Hills is reminiscent of both the media baron’s 

socialising and his wartime efforts as Minister of 

Aviation Production (there are spitfire references 

everywhere). Relax in the library where Churchill 

strategised with his ministers or catch a movie as 

Hitchcock did in the Art Deco cinema with lamps 

from the Empire State Building. 

The heart of the place is the domed copula, with 

its huge artwork and an impressive stairway leading 

to stylish rooms named after Beaverbrook’s famous 

guests, from Elizabeth Taylor to Ian Fleming. 

Although there’s a kids' club, it feels like a very 

adult kind of place, where, after an afternoon in 

the kaleidoscope of a spa (its colourful design more 

arresting than restful), you can sip a cocktail in Sir 

Frank’s Bar as a prelude to dinner in the Japanese 

restaurant, then run amok in the Italianate garden, 

with its pond created from Lord Beaverbrook’s 

swimming pool. 

A new hotel within the hotel has just opened – The 

Village – but although each of its 21 rooms come with 

a golf buggy, I infinitely preferred the hotel proper, in 

the very heart of Lord Beaverbrook’s empire. 

Rooms from £580 in Beaverbrook Town House, 

and £610 in Beaverbrook, both with breakfast. A city to 

silence package costs from £1,800 for two, with a night 

each in Beaverbrook Town House and Beaverbrook, 

breakfast, two dinners, spa use, and car transfer 

between the hotels; beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk, 

beaverbrook.co.uk 


BELMOND 

THE CADOGAN, CHELSEA, AND LE MANOIR 

AUX QUAT’ SAISONS, OXFORDSHIRE 


Town 

The Cadogan, Chelsea 

Among all the elegance, there are some fun details 

in this hotel where Oscar Wilde was arrested, and 

where the actress Lillie Langtry once lived. Cocktails 

flow at The LaLee bar, the lifts are surrounded by a 

bronze cast of 600 books, and even the bedrooms 

have tartan slippers as a nod to Wilde, who loved the 

fabric. 

Original features have been injected with 

contemporary cool; an impressive oak staircase, 

for instance, has modern lights hanging from relief 

ceilings. 

Indulge in afternoon tea in the Tea Lounge, with 

its curved seats, spectacular light and tea bar, or pick 

from the all-day menu in The LaLee, where dishes 

range from duck breast to sole meunière. 

While the bedrooms are a tad corporate, they 

are very comfy, with commissioned artwork above 

the headboards and curated artwork. My firstfloor 

room was quiet, despite the traffic outside. If 

you want something a bit more historic, the Lillie 

Langtry room, in the actress’s old townhouse, has a 

wonderful ceiling, but you’ll need to book the Royal 

Suite to see the room in which Wilde was arrested. 

Country 

Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Oxfordshire 

The entente cordiale reigns supreme in this 15thcentury 

manor house. Outside the honey-coloured 

building lies an English country garden with lavenderfringed 

pathways, while within, the kitchen is ruled by 

chef Raymond Blanc, who has held two Michelin stars 

since 1984. 

You come here for the food, and it doesn’t 

disappoint. On my last of many visits, I tucked into a 

seven-course vegetarian tasting menu that started 

with French onion soup in a tea cup and included 

truffled egg with wild mushroom tea. The matching 

flight of wines also went perfectly with my companion’s 

meat-eater’s menu, which was just as exquisite with its 

langoustine and venison. 

Blanc’s creative soul has spilled over from the 

kitchen into the 32 bedrooms, which, he says, 

“have all been inspired by my Frenchness as well as 

by something in my past”. Hence Opium, with its 

opulent purple and red furnishings, has its roots in 

a visit to China, while travels in Thailand resulted 

in Lemongrass, with its lime-green furnishing and 

fishtank in the wall separating the bedroom from the 

bathroom. 

There’s a Japanese garden outside too, making 

this hotel even more multinational. 

Rooms from £680 at The Cadogan, with breakfast 

and £1,312 at Le Manoir, with dinner and breakfast. 

Two nights’ B&B at The Cadogan plus one night with 

breakfast and dinner at Le Manoir and limousine 

transfer from £2,672 for two; belmond.com 


ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS 

THE CHELSEA TOWNHOUSE, LONDON, 

AND CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE 


Town 

The Chelsea Townhouse 

Once the Astor family’s London pad and named 

Cliveden Townhouse before it became the Draycott 

Hotel, this boutique bolthole became the newest 

addition to the Iconic Luxury Hotels’ stable last 

autumn. The last of its 36 rooms in three townhouses 

are just being completed. 

The overall feel is of a home rather than a 

hotel, where you can snuggle up with a book by 

the fireplace in the library, enjoy a lazy breakfast 

as you gaze at pictures of Cliveden in the drawing 

room (there’s also a painting of Nancy Astor on 

the stairwell), then open the door straight onto the 

private Cadogan Gardens. 

The garden suites also have direct access to this 

pretty little enclave, while those on the first floor 

benefit from high, ornate ceilings. All rooms, in a 

neutral palette, come with an old-fashioned drinks 

cabinet stocked with complimentary soft drinks and 

snacks, a snug shower room, and details such as a 

Chelsea bun on arrival and local neighbourhood 

guidebook. 

Use it to pick your dinner destination – the idea is 

that you dine out when staying here. 

When you return, there’s no need to even pass 

through reception to get to your room. 

Country 

Cliveden House, Berkshire 

Talk about a pile with a past. History along with 

more than a whiff of scandal is built into every brick 

of Cliveden’s neoclassical facade. William Waldorf 

Astor embellished the house with his travel souvenirs, 

including Madame de Pompadour’s gilded dining 

room, before his daughter-in-law Nancy Astor turned 

Cliveden into party central. 

Everyone who is anyone has stayed here, from 

Chaplin to Churchill, and more recently, a certain 

Ms Markle the night before her wedding. If she had 

Buckingham, the suite up the spectacular woodcarved 

staircase where I stayed, she would have 

enjoyed oak-panelled walls, views of the parterre, 

and an enormous Carrara marble bathroom. Even 

the smallest room, Kipling, comes with an impressive 

stucco ceiling. 

The swimming pool in the spa’s walled garden 

is where John Profumo, who was Secretary of State 

for War; first saw Christine Keeler in 1961; their 

consequent affair helped to topple Harold Macmillan’s 

government. Take a turn in the 376 acres of National 

Trust grounds before venturing inside the Relais & 

Châteaux hotel amid the wood panelling and suits of 

armour. We preferred the stable-themed Astor Grill to 

the dining room; be sure to try a Bitter Nancy, which 

the menu tells us was like the socialite – ‘bold and 

unapologetically unique’. 

Rooms from £249 at The Chelsea Townhouse, 

room only and from £445 at Cliveden, with breakfast; 

thechelseatownhouse.com, clivedenhouse.co.uk 


ICONIC LUXURY HOTELS 

THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE, LONDON, 

AND CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE 

TWO HOUR, 15-MINUTE DRIVE 

Town 

The Mayfair Townhouse 

Oodles of eccentricity accompany this hotel, which 

sprawls over 15 townhouses. The fun decor tells its 

story, much of which revolves around the flamboyant 

Oscar Wilde; he set much of his book The Importance 

of Being Earnest, in prime dandy territory on Mayfair’s 

Half Moon Street, the hotel’s address. 

Guests are greeted in reception by a lifestyle 

peacock comprising 25,000 Swarovski crystals, and 

named 'Alfie' after Wilde’s lover, Lord Alfred Douglas. 

The townhouses were built by the wealthy 

Renard family in the 1700s, which is why foxes pop 

up everywhere, from door-knockers to the cuffs, 

buttons and pins on staff uniforms. Just off the 

downstairs breakfast area, with its unusual portraits, 

a semi-private room called The Den is hung with the 

equivalent of an ancestral portrait gallery for foxes. It 

sounds peculiar but it works. 

The idea is that guests go out to eat, but there is 

a decent all-day menu in the Dandy Bar, which has 

the feel of a private club about it, with its dark-wood 

panelling and slouchy sofas. 

Rooms of all sizes can be found down wonky 

corridors with uneven floors. Ours, in Art Deco gold 

and navy, came with a generous complimentary 

minibar and one other lovely touch – a copy of The 

Importance of Being Earnest at turndown. 

Country 

Chewton Glen, Hampshire 

Quintessentially English, achingly idyllic, fun for all the 

family, with superb but not overfussy food…They don’t 

put a foot wrong at this 130-acre estate on the edge 

of the New Forest, starting with the door attendant; 

although we declined help when he came out to help 

us with our luggage, he whisked it subtly away to our 

room while we checked in. 

You won’t be bored here, with tennis (both 

indoors and out), croquet, two swimming pools, a 

hydrotherapy pool, cookery lessons, and a kids club. 

Take time, though, to linger over meals at this 

Relais & Châteaux property, because the food is 

really special, served in the refined yet relaxed Dining 

Room. We loved the soupcon of spectacle added when 

ordering meat carved from the trolley; the vegetarian 

Thai red curry is also recommended. Be sure, too, to 

eat in James Martin’s Kitchen in the grounds, where 

the fish and chips is a must. 

There’s a room to suit everyone here, with almost 

all of them enjoying their own outdoor space. And for 

a real treat, book one of the top suites with its own hot 

tub, or one of the contemporary styled treehouses. 

Rooms at The Mayfair Townhouse from £252, room 

only; and from £410 at Chewton Glen, with breakfast; 

themayfairtownhouse.com, chewtonglen.com 


THE DORCHESTER COLLECTION 

THE DORCHESTER, MAYFAIR, LONDON, 

AND COWORTH PARK, BERKSHIRE 


Town 

The Dorchester, Mayfair 

When you’ve seen The Promenade at The 

Dorchester, with its huge displays of Dorchester 

roses, its columns, floral carpet spread over marble 

floor and ornate ceiling, it’s hard to imagine 

afternoon tea in London anywhere else. 

At the end of this far-reaching room, a pianist 

tinkles on Liberace’s restored mirrored grand piano 

in a new Artists Bar, with mirrored ceiling and artthemed 

cocktails. 

Fresh from the first major renovations since the 

eighties, the ground floor is looking pretty swish, 

especially the Vesper Bar with its 1920s theme and 

theatrical snug area. 

Work is still ongoing in the 251 rooms upstairs. 

As with the Promenade, they’re designed by Pierre 

Yves-Rochon, with English-garden colours, marble 

bathrooms and perhaps a window seat or desk in a 

turret area. A ninth-floor rooftop area isn’t due to 

open until 2025. 

For dinner, you can choose between Alain 

Ducasse’s restaurant, Chinese or The Grill, where the 

dish to pick is ‘All the Chicken’ with stuffed crown, 

chicken hotpot, rolled leg and crispy skin salad. 

For me, though, it’s afternoon tea that’s what this 

grande dame is all about. 

Country 

Coworth Park, Berkshire 

You’re just ten minutes from Ascot when you stay at 

this 18th-century mansion, so it’s no surprise to find 

horse references everywhere at this hotel with its own 

stables and two polo fields amid its 240 rolling acres. 

Last time I was here, my son took his first riding 

lesson – Coworth Park is very family friendly, with 

activities from baking to tie-dyeing. This time, I’m 

more about the spa, a sleek building carved into the 

hillside, with herb-topped roof and music playing as 

you swim underwater in the pool. 

Cream tea in the spa cafe is a civilised affair, or 

you can opt for a grander occasion in the drawing 

room, with its twin fireplaces, grand piano and 

conservatory. 

There are surprising touches in this refined 

environment, including a fake tree in reception, a 

light installation that reads ‘Love’ in the bar and 

screens that resemble looms between the tables in the 

Michelin-starred restaurant, Woven. It’s all part of the 

modern decor, which includes a light-wood staircase 

leading up to 30 rooms, most with a copper bathtub 

(there are another 40 rooms in the stables). 

There’s one more surprise at bedtime – the 

bedlinen has a horse motif on it. 

Rooms from £900 at The Dorchester and from 

£545 at Coworth Park, dorchestercollection.com 


FOUR SEASONS 

TEN TRINITY SQUARE, LONDON AND 

FOUR SEASONS, HAMPSHIRE 


Town 

Ten Trinity Square, London 

Think you recognise the fantastic facade of this hotel 

with its neoclassical columns just over the road from 

the Tower of London? You may have seen it doubling 

as M16 in James Bond’s Skyfall, or in one of many 

other productions. 

But it’s not all about the facade here. Just past 

reception in the former HQ of the Port of London 

Authority is the Art Deco rotunda dome, with 

its copper bar and modern reliefs on the whitest 

of walls. Downstairs lies a minimalist spa, a real 

sanctuary in the city with its gold mosaic walls, 

elliptical counters and silver-tree images in square 

columns rising from the indoor pool. 

Considering this is the capital, the 100 minimalist 

rooms in greys and honeys are generous in size, 

though they don’t have Tower of London views, 

looking instead onto the street or an inner courtyard. 

The best bit, though, is the food. Every mouthful 

I ate in two-Michelin-starred La Dame de Pic came 

with an explosion of flavour, starting with the 

exquisitely crafted amuse-bouche. Or you can pick 

your favourite Asian dishes in the Chinese/Japanese 

fusion restaurant. 

Country 

Four Seasons, Hampshire 

According to local legend, a former owner of this 18thcentury 

red-brick mansion moved an entire village 

so he could enjoy the lake view from his bathroom 

window. Don’t confine yourself to the views, though; 

this 500-acre estate is made for country pursuits. 

There’s everything from archery to axe throwing and 

falconry to fishing, by way of riding and shooting. 

Inside, it feels bigger than its 133 spacious but 

slightly old-fashioned rooms suggest; long glass 

corridors link the different buildings leading from 

a central area with welcoming library and Martin 

Brudnizki-designed drawing room, with wood 

panelling and parquet floor. Brudnizki designed 

the relaxed restaurant, too, with its red-leather bar, 

banquette seating and modern British food (don’t 

miss the Hampshire trout tartare starter). 

Like the rest of the hotel, with its kids club, sofabed 

and fun children’s pool in the spa, it’s incredibly family 

friendly – waiters couldn’t do enough for a toddler at a 

nearby table. 

Impeccable service isn’t just confined to the 

restaurant – it’s noticeable throughout the hotel, from 

the door attendants who greeted my son and me after 

a long walk amid the deer-filled estate, to Sam, who 

couldn’t have been more helpful as we battled it out 

while clay-pigeon shooting. 

From £650 a night, with breakfast at Ten Trinity 

Square, and from £641 a night, room only, at the 

Four Seasons Hampshire; fourseasons.com 


HAPPINESS IS 

FOUND IN A HIDDEN 

Cornish bay 

Discover the magic of Trevaunance Cove, a dreamy fishing village in 

St Agnes where you can drift away, leaving the world behind you, as you 

watch fishers come into shore with their daily catch and fall asleep to 

the sound of the waves lapping into the shore 

Text by Jessica Way 

beach in St Agnes. Situated on the north coast of Cornwall, 

where there’s excellent swell, you might presume this popular 

surfing spot to be an adrenaline-fuelled, lively, party-going 

kind of place, but you would be mistaken. St Agnes is a 

surprisingly sleepy village, and its beachfront is no exception. 

Seals enjoy basking on the rocks while clusters of surfers 

ride the waves. Groups of holidaymakers and hikers stop in 

their tracks to admire them – some while resting on one of 

the many benches in the beautiful Jubilee Garden (formed by 

You might recognise the dramatic scenery of the St 

Agnes Heritage Coast from the TV series Poldark, 

based on novels by Winston Graham, a resident 

of Perranporth. Wheal Coates is featured as the 

Nampara Estate and is possibly the most photographed tin 

mine in Cornwall. It is quite spectacular, towering high on a 

dramatic cliff above a picture-perfect sweeping beach and 

shimmering ocean. 

Less than an hour’s walk from Wheal Coates over St 

Agnes Head brings you to Trevaunance Cove, the main 


‘ 

Seals enjoy basking on the rocks while clusters of surfers ride the waves. 

Groups of holidaymakers and hikers stop in their tracks to admire them... 

’ 

There is a comfortable balance between holidaymakers 

and villagers, providing a pleasing sense of community, from 

the zestful locals out walking their dogs to the pretty thatched 

cottages offering fresh egg boxes to passersby. 

The heartbeat of Trevaunance Cove is the Driftwood 

Spars, or ‘the Drifty’ as it's known by the locals. 

volunteers), others from their balconies and windows with a 

glass of Cornish cider. The setting is calm and tranquil, with 

minimal movement beyond the sea, just the occasional hiker 

meandering their way up, down and around the cove on a 

section of the coast path offering magnificent views. 


The 17th-century Cornish pub was formerly a sail loft 

and warehouse for tin mines, ships and chandlery – and the 

building is made of Cornish slate and stone, as well as huge 

ships' timbers and spares, from which it gets its name. The 

Drifty is brimming with character and has a unique feature – 

behind the bar fireplace, there’s a wreckers tunnel that runs 

through the hill, down and down to the beach! 

Opposite, and perfect for sunny days, is the pub's pretty 

courtyard garden with ample seating and additional Crab 

Shack (with a raised platform for live-music performances). It's 

popular with families; you can order your drinks, sandwiches, 

cakes, and Callestick Farm Cornish ice cream here instead of 

going to the bar. There's a touching remembrance bench in 

the garden, too – a tribute to the ‘Drifty Legends – gone but 

not forgotten'. You'll find around twenty plaques with names 

and nicknames spanning the last decade, a heartwarming nod 

to the sense of belonging and friendship of those who have 

enjoyed this special pub over the years. 

Next door is the Driftwood Spars award-winning 

microbrewery, where they craft their own ales along with a 

good selection of cider. They're open to visitors for tours of their 

small-batch five-barrel plant (with beer tastings, of course). 

Schooners, though, is the place to be to watch the surfers 

and big waves, and it too has a historical significance that 

adds to its charm. The pub is named after four schooners 

built on the beach at Trevaunance Cove in the 1870s – The 

St Agnes of St Agnes, The Goonlaze, Trevellas, and The Lady 

Agnes. You can watch the waves boom against the tavern, 

and during high tide, you can witness the splashes on the 

sundeck. Schooners serves the most delicious wood-fired 

sourdough pizzas (and they do takeaway boxes). Plus, the 

pub's location makes a perfect spot to enjoy the mesmerising 

sunsets while sipping on your favourite sundowner (perhaps 

while you wait for your pizza). 

The Cornish coastal community has a long mining history 

of copper, tin and arsenic, which would have been used 

for creating tools and weapons. During the late 1800s, 

St Agnes was the centre of tin and copper mining, but 

evidence of habitation has been discovered from as far back 


as the Bronze Age, with Mesolithic remains dating back to 

10,000 BC. Although this era ended in the 1920s, its history 

is preserved in the architecture and as part of the Cornwall 

and West Devon Mining Landscape: a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site. 

There have been five harbours at St Agnes and the 

remnants of the last one to collapse can still be seen on the 

western side of the beach. The pier lasted over 100 years 

before a storm in 1915, at a time when it was well used. Goods 

included copper, lime, slate, wine and, most importantly, coal 

from Wales for the local miners. St Agnes is most famous, 

though, for its high quality tin, as in the old Cornish saying, 

“Sten Sen Agnes yw an gwella sten yn Kernow”, meaning "St 

Agnes tin is the best tin in Cornwall". At low tide it is possible 

to discover the remnants of the old harbour and explore 

the neighbouring Trevellas Porth beach, a great spot for 

discovering hidden rock pools. 

With St Agnes designated as an Area of Outstanding 

Natural Beauty (AONB), you can’t go wrong by following 

‘ 

With St Agnes designated as an 

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty 

(AONB), you can’t go wrong by 

following the South West Coast Path 

in either direction. 

’ 

the South West Coast Path in either direction. Head west 

to Wheal Coates and Porthtowan and wander past the 

remains of the engine house at Wheal Charlotte. Head east 

to Perranporth, and you could take a dip in Chapel Rock sea 

pool, quench your thirst at the Watering Hole – the only bar 

on the beach in the UK, or satisfy your hunger at Alcatraz, 

a beautiful bistro converted from an old WWII gun shelter. 

Whichever you choose, be sure to keep your eyes open for 

seabirds, dolphins, seals and herons along the way. 

The village of St Agnes is about a mile inland from 

Trevaunance Cove, and has a butcher, bakery, barber, farm 

shops, post office, galleries, deli and more. 


‘ 

From Nori (to St Agnes) it is a short walk up the lane... passing the 

famous Stippy Stappy street (a terrace of Victorian cottages laddered 

into the hillside that feature in all seven Poldark books. 

’ 

St Agnes Museum – there are two floors of local exhibits and 

originalities. Then visit St Agnes Beacon. At 630 feet above 

sea level, this impressive landmark was once the sight of a 

Pop into the Sorting Office for the best coffee and 

find your perfect souvenir in Little Feathers Gallery – where 

Gary’s impressive artwork and Maria’s beautiful handmade 

jewellery adorn the walls, windows and glass cabinets. 

You can also get closer to the living history here by visiting 


‘ 

Hidden within the bay is a best-kept 

Cornish cottage, Nori... nuzzled into 

the cliff... high enough to make the 

most of the views and low enough 

to hear the ocean and feel the sand 

between your toes. 

’ 

burning beacon. Today a trig mark and plaque mark the spot. 

This is one of the best viewpoints in Cornwall. On a clear 

day, you can see around 30 miles in every direction, including 

views of Godrevy Lighthouse. 

Where to Stay 

Hidden within the bay is a best-kept Cornish cottage, Nori. 

This beautifully romantic hideaway is nuzzled into the cliff 

in a perfect position – high enough to make the most of the 

views and low enough to hear the ocean and feel the sand 

between your toes. Plus, there’s a private rooftop terrace from 

which to watch the world go by. Surrounded and protected 

by the wild and rugged cliffs, this comforting cove is a place 

to simply sit back, recharge and relax. 

Inside, the romance continues with dreamy furnishings, 

including a cosy wood-burning stove, sliding French doors, 

custom-made draped curtains from a stunning Weaver Green 

fabric, Daylesford Farm throws, and a coffee table made 

from a vintage military chest. You will want to sink into the 

giant settee with perfectly plumped cushions and let the fresh 

sea breeze waft over you through the sash-style windows. 

Nori is small but flawlessly formed, providing the perfect 

space to hunker down for the evening, read a good book, 

play cards, or watch a movie. 

If you are looking for an unforgettable Cornish experience, 

there is a surf shop in the cove where you can try surfing, standup 

paddleboarding, yoga, massage, or even brave a session in 

IMAGES © JESSICA WAY/BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL / ADOBE STOCK / MATTHEW HERITAGE 


a floatation tank. Nori property owners Jane and Paul, (who 

live in the village) are keen sailors. They also offer their guests 

sailing adventures, skippered charters, overnight stays and 

lunch on the water on their yacht Good Hope. 

Where to Eat 

In the morning, there are a couple of breakfast options 

to choose from within very easy walking distance from 

Nori, including Cafe Q, named after its location on Quay 

Road. It gives trendy beach-hut vibes, with lots of breakfast 

options, pastries, and homemade cakes (the lemon polenta 

is unbelievably good) on the menu. Or, if you’re not fussed 

about having a cooked breakfast, then the healthy smoothie 

bowls or cherry-topped porridge and coffee taste delicious at 

Genki. They have a beautiful garden (where, if you’re lucky, 

Wild Samsara offers Reiki and massage treatments), and 

their homemade Crunchie and Flump rocky road is pretty 

special too. 

For something more substantial, from Nori it is a short walk 

up the lane and through Peterville Woods passing the famous 

Stippy Stappy street (a terrace of Victorian cottages laddered 

into the hillside that feature in all seven Poldark books), to either 

the Peterville Inn – think modern gastro-pub, serving locally 

sourced British classics and Cornish Ale – or the slightly trendier 

The Taphouse, with Pad Thai, gyozas and house cocktails on 

the menu. 

Visit on Saturday night and expect vinyl DJs or a gig, The 

Taphouse attract some great artists, including George Ezra, 

Ben Howard and – more recently – Tay Oskee. 

A short drive (five minutes) in the car and there’s also the 

fantastic Miners Arms in Mithian – a traditional Cornish pub, 

serving real food. It has unique 16th-century character, with 

authentic beams and low ceilings. Or, if you would prefer 

to cook at Nori, there are two butchers, a fishmonger, a 

greengrocer and a deli or two, plus the wonderful St Agnes 

Bakery (featured in The Times) in the heart of the village. 

Further Afield 

If you’re keen on exploring the area on a day out in the 

car, you could head west for St Ives, Sennen and Land's 

End. Head east for the wild beaches of Holywell Bay and 

Crantock, or head to the south coast for Falmouth and the 

fabulous Roseland Peninsula. 

Prices for a long weekend or mid week break staying in Nori 

start from £807 available with Boutique Retreats, bridging the 

gap between boutique hotels and traditional holiday cottages, 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 


LUXURY RETREATS IN THE UK’S DREAMIEST LOCATIONS 

From cosying up fireside in a country cottage, to stargazing from a 

dreamy hot tub at your clifftop hideaway, escape the everyday and 

seek the magic of a staycation with Boutique Retreats. With over 

260 luxury abodes to choose from, uncover our curated collection 

of luxury retreats, set in unique locations across the UK. 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

+44 (0)1872 553 491 

enquiries@boutique-retreats.co.uk

Spotlight ON 

ST IVES 

SURF SCHOOL 

British Travel Journal takes a trip to St Ives to brave the Atlantic 

swell, staying in a luxury resort on a surf-and-wellbeing 

retreat to reboot mind and body 

Text by Rosie Underwood

Lying in a 'cobra' position on a fan of surfboards in 

March’s interchangeable weather in St Ives, I can 

feel the familiar butterflies that come with the roar 

of the Atlantic behind me. There’s always a moment 

of what I can only perceive as total perplexing fear when I 

surf unpredictable waves. But on this occasion, I could feel 

a pull in the form of a highly infectious enthusiasm for the 

water from the reassuring retreat team offering me all the 

encouragement and optimism I need. 

The carefully formulated retreat is hosted by one of 

Cornwall's most exciting holiday resorts, Una St Ives, located 

above idyllic Carbis Bay, and designed by the mastermind 

behind St Ives Surf School, Harris Rothschild, and mind-andbody 

coach Andrew Blake ('Blakey'). Their unique pairing 

of skills and personality traits, combined with their laid-back 

humour and infectious energy, relaxes you from the get-go. 

The logic behind the combination of surfing, functional 

movement, injury prevention, breath work and both dynamic 

and restorative yoga is centred around flow states. The 

experience that positive psychologists discovered when 

someone is so fully immersed in a task, they experience joy in 

all its dimensions, “We want to get people into a flow state 

because it gives people time out from the prefrontal cortex,” 

explained Blakey, “the part of our brain that’s constantly 

reaching, thinking, organising, analysing; this kind of training 

gives people a break from that.” 

Our days start with 7am yoga or functional-movement 

workshops, followed by surfing the local surf spots; chosen 

day by day depending on conditions. We’d end with 

restorative yoga or breath work. Each day is peppered with 

treatments, cold-water swims, one-to-one coaching sessions, 

nutritious meals, and – of course – downtime exploring the 

cobbled streets of St Ives. 


The Location 

Una St Ives, which celebrates its ten-year anniversary in 

2025, serves as the optimal backdrop, matching the ethos 

of the surfing retreat entirely. You are within easy walking 

distance from Carbis Bay, famous for its white sand and 

turquoise rumbling waters. Una’s village gives that instant 

sense of community. With outdoor living at the heart of 

the design, you can wind through the lodges to the spa to 

decompress, stopping along the way to chat to neighbours 

and fellow retreat guests. 

Delicious food is served in Una Kitchen’s – led by 

multiple- AA-Rosette-winning Cornish chef Glenn Gatland, 

centred around nutrient-dense nourishment and enjoyment. 

Guests are given the option of what they’d require to ‘retreat’ 

from their everyday life. If that means enjoying one of Una’s 

deliciously crafted Negronis after a day in the surf, or even 

better, indulging in Una’s interpretation of Cornwall’s finest 

form of feasting – afternoon tea, with all the trimmings – then 

Una delivers. 

The dining area and restaurant have a laid-back, beachlife 

vibe. The spa is a showstopper; complete with an infinity 

pool, a sauna, a steam room, a Jacuzzi, a fitness centre, and 

treatment rooms serving up post-surf massages – all included 

in our stay. 

During the summer months, guests staying at the resort 

can also enjoy the heated outdoor pool, and new outdoor 

barbeque and grill at the Lido, CARGO. 

Movement, breath and mind 

Andrew Blake’s upbeat preparation talk ahead of stepping foot 

in the water not only settles your nerves – his expert guidance 

teaches you range of motion, breath capacity and mindset. 

He even got us lapping Una’s Olympic-sized swimming pool 

under water by the end of the retreat. “Everything moves in 

waves,” he told me over arguably one of the best scones I’ve 

ever tasted at Una’s kitchen. “The sea, our minds, brainwaves, 

our heartbeat, this group’s frequency." This surf retreat was a 

perfect opportunity for me to marry my experience and skills 

with the best surf school in the south west. 

Surfing 

I’ve worked with many surf instructors in my time; most are 

enthused to just get out there on the waves. If you’re new 

to the water, looking like you’re wrestling a crocodile as 

you familiarise yourself with a board, it can be quite a scary 

prospect to wade so quickly into it. Harris and his team focus 

on outlook and growth mindsets with safety and high-octane 

fun at the forefront of what they do. 

They focus on progress and not perfection, which means 

no one is ever alienated; you feel seen, heard, elevated – and 

uplifted with roars of encouragement. I watched as the team 

danced through swells, arms in the air as they got pelted by 

the elements while putting every muscle, tissue, ligament, 

bone and reserves of energy they had into helping us ride 

the waves. They worked so hard to enable us to feel that 

clearheaded adrenaline rush that only comes from surfing. 

After I took a rumbling in the water, adopting Andrew 

Blake’s much needed breathwork, Harris reassured me that 

while he loves surfing, he knew he could be much better. He's 

already an extremely skilled surfer. Between ducking waves 

outback he clarifies: "There are many people that surf better 

than me, but I’m not sure they all enjoy it as much as I do.” He 

went on to explain that no matter your ability at surfing, you 

can still get the same high from catching your first waves in 

the UK as the pros in Nazaré (Portugal). 

Just by being deeply focused and immersed in the 

experience is an intrinsic motivation, resulting in more joy. 

That’s why everybody should try it. All you need is a willingness 

to try. As the retreat continued, smiles got bigger, eyes brighter, 

jokes funnier, brows softer and connections grew. 

Rates for the Una St Ives surf and wellbeing retreat (12-15 

November 2024) start from £595 per person, based on two 

people sharing a twin/double room with shared bathroom; 2025 

dates yet to be confirmed. St Ives Surf School is open all yearround; 

unastives.co.uk/offers/surf-wellbeing-retreat 

IMAGES © NICK PUMPHREY / ADJ BROWN / UNA ST IVES 


CHANNEL ISLANDS

NORTHERN 

NIGHTS 

British Travel Journal heads north to Durham and Cumbria in search 

of a spa and a shore for a scenic staycation, and discovers 

Michelin-starred dining, old-world elegance and hotels rich in poetic history 

Text by Chantal Haines 

A few minutes’ walk from the shore, Seaham Hall, a 

beautifully restored Georgian country house hotel, is set in 37 

rolling acres atop the cliffs. 

BYRON COUNTRY 

Our first lodgings for this staycayion, the strikingly handsome 

Hall was originally built by Sir Ralph Milkbanke, 6th Baronet 

of Halnaby, in 1791. Completed in 1972, the building's history 

is writ large in every era. Most notably, flamboyant poet 

and leading figure in the 18th-century Romantic Movement, 

Lord Byron, wed Milbanke's only daughter, Anna Isabella 

Milbanke (known as Annabella) in the drawing room of the 

grand house in 1815. 

While the marriage was neither long nor very happy, the 

couple’s daughter, Ada Lovelace, is celebrated as the first 

Clomping happily along the vast shingle and sand 

beach at Seaham, hearts invigorated by great 

gulps of bracing, coastal air and eyes in search of 

elusive glints of emerald-blue sea-glass treasures 

for which this coastal stretch is renowned, we realise one of 

the greatest pleasures of travelling north – sheer space and 

restful room to roam. 

While some staycation spots in the south of England can 

throng heavy with visitors in the summer months, Durham’s 

Heritage Coast and its environs are blissfully peaceful. 


sumptuous sink-in-to-me sofas, and a bathing deck featuring 

twin slipper baths set by the Georgian bay windows – an 

unmatched place to soothe away the day’s stresses and 

strains. Portraits of Byron, Annabella and Ada dot the 

walls, while bold wallpaper prints add a pop of colour and 

modernity throughout. The suite is exquisitely appointed with 

a huge TV rising from the bed-end, luxury toiletries, a walk-in 

rain shower and contemporary furnishings. 

computer programmer and remembered for her pioneering 

work on Charles Babbage’s revolutionary mechanical 

computer, the analytical engine. Today, the spectacular Ada 

Lovelace suite is the hotel’s grand dame and occupies the very 

drawing room where Byron and Annabella wed. 

The take-your-breath-away split-level suite has a 

vast mezzanine bedroom, and enjoys commanding views 

across the grounds, fountains and forests from bed, couch 

and baths. There is an office area, a lounge space with 


‘ 

The grand property was also a military hospital in WWI and a Spey 

whisky smuggling den during US Prohibition (legend has it the tunnel 

still runs to the coast from the impressive wine cellar). 

’ 

CHIC SANCTUARY 

The grand property was also a military hospital in WWI and 

a Spey whisky smuggling den during US Prohibition (legend 

has it the tunnel still runs to the coast from the impressive 

wine cellar). 

Fast forward to present day and (located in an area not 

terribly well known for five-star hotels) Seaham Hall stands 

out with its impeccable hospitality, luxurious accommodation 

and colossal spa. There is a pillow concierge, a butler 

service, pod domes for private dining alfresco, a dock with 

a clutch of bright coloured deck chairs that feel a touch 

Soho Farmhouse, and quiet terraces where guests can enjoy 

sundowners with the sound of the waves crashing in the 

distance. 

The hotel blends the traditional with pops of playful 

contemporary design; the interior is awash with ornate 

mirrors, large gilded paintings and original fireplaces twinned 

with plush velvet sofas, plaid chairs, and flashes of teal, 

purple and burnt-orange soft furnishings. Design books stack 

next to leather tomes, while statement lights – including 

pugdog table lamp – add humour and fun. Open fires 

crackle in winter and fresh blooms burst from copious vases 

and mantles. Of the 21 luxuriously appointed suites, several 

rooms welcome furry four-legged friends. 

A grand staircase leads to the main house’s suites while 

a glass-roofed atrium connects guests to the hotel’s Serenity 

Spa and features more capacious suites. Four modern 

self-catering villas – offering the best sea views - have also 

recently been added to the estate, with some offering 

outdoor hot tubs. 

TOP SPA IN THE NORTH 

As you descend to the subterranean tinkling waterway 

and floating boardwalk that leads to the award-winning 

44,000sq ft Serenity Spa, notable water features add to 

the sense of tranquillity. The spa, complete with a ceiling of 

pink cherry blossom, is home to an Asian herbal samarium, 

a salt sauna, an Indian steam room with amethyst crystal, a 

hydrotherapy pool, a 20-metre pool, a hammam with snail 

showers and Jacuzzi, plus plunge pools and outdoor hot tubs, 

along with a blissful menu of treatments from Temple Spa 

and organic seaweed skincare brand, ishga. 

The name ishga is derived from the Gaelic word for 

water and the Five Senses Sound Ritual is a new additional 

that uses immersive sound to deepen relaxation. The sounds 

of ‘Swell’, composed using field recordings from the Outer 

Hebrides (where ishga sustainably harvests its mineral-rich 

seaweed) accompany the 90-minute treatment. 


The ritual – with its restful soundtrack of gently lapping 

waves, ethereal melodies and traditional Gaelic instruments – 

is utterly soporific and begins with a welcome foot scrub and 

cleanse, a soothing back scrub and hot-stone oil massage 

with blended oils, followed by a bliss-out multilayer facial, 

a hot-oil scalp massage and cold-stone eye therapy. The 

treatment ends in the private Swell Room – a cosy, dark 

sanctuary with two vibro-acoustic loungers. Lying down 

and cocooned in blankets, you'll have headphones playing 

more immersive calming sounds, synchronised with the 

reverberations of the loungers, to induce deep relaxation. 

resident, Lord Byron. More relaxed dining can be found at the 

spa’s Pan-Asian Ozone restaurant where guests are invited, 

nay encouraged, to sashay from the spa to restaurant for 

lunch, cocktails or dinner. And so we did. Clinking mixologistmade 

zesty cocktails and glasses of bubbly while still dressed 

in our fluffy white robes and slippers – heaven. 

DURHAM TO CUMBRIAN DELIGHTS 

While many guests come for the spa alone, Seaham Hall 

provides a handy jumping-off point for further adventures; be 

it a shoulder-dropping pitstop enroute to Scotland or a base 

from which to visit the nearby cities of Durham, Newcastle 

and Sunderland. 

We opt to head 20 minutes inland, where the UNESCO 

World Heritage Site of Durham’s captivating cathedral and 

The hotel’s formal restaurant, The Dining Room, is 

headed up by chef Damian Broom who produces unfussy 

plates that celebrate seasonal produce with a deft touch. The 

lofty dining room features 14-carat gold-plated chandeliers, 

towering Georgian windows overlooking the hotel’s 

trademark Vortex water sculpture and a portrait of former 

the city’s adjacent castle forms one of the most stunning 

city panoramas in Europe. After a punt on the river and a 

cream tea, we make the short hop to the Angel of the North 


to explore the effervescent city of Newcastle – where the 

shopping and bar-restaurant scene has had a welcome 

injection of fledgling chefs and trendy shops of late. 

It's just an hour’s drive across the northern Pennines to 

our next country house hotel stay at Farlam Hall. 

Providing a quintessential slice of country refinement, the 

16th-century manor is built of Lakeland stone. It houses just 

12 luxurious bedrooms and six stable suites. Quiet, traditional 

and refined, Farlam feels like your own private manor, thanks 

to the hushed grandeur and exceptional staff. Our bedroom 

is large, luxurious and flooded with dappled sunlight. Soft 

furnishings of plaids and soft tartans make for a homely 

feel, while accessories and bathrooms feel uber-chic, with 

freestanding bath, underfloor heating and Molton Brown 

amenities. 

Nods to the historic building and surrounding area are 

interspersed throughout the manor house – the Stephenson’s 

Clock dates back to 1850 and is ticking in the main lounge. 

Guests can don wellies and grab a brolly from the porch 

and enjoy country rambles from the doorstep. Alternatively, 

Hadrian’s Wall path is just three miles to the north – routes 

taking in Steel Rigg, Crag Lough and Birdoswald are all a 

short drive from the hotel. For more of a hike, both the North 

Pennines and the Lake District are between a 30- and 45- 

minutes drive. 

MICHELIN STAR MAKER 

Whether it’s the tinkling brook that dawdles through Farlam 

Hall’s seven-acre grounds or the serene cosy palettes of the 

hotel’s interior, this country manor instantly envelops you into 

its tranquil vibe. We curl up on comfy wingback chairs with the 

Sunday papers in one of the (three) lounges beside an open fire 

while a rain shower passes before exploring the pretty grounds, 

taking in the rose garden and impressive kitchen garden. 

The centrepiece to the picturesque setting is the large 

150-year-old cedar tree by the pond garden – the namesake 

for the Hall’s Michelin-star restaurant. 


‘ 

Hadrian’s Wall path is just three miles to the north – routes taking in Steel 

Rigg, Crag Lough and Birdoswald are all a short drive from the hotel. 

’ 

In early 2023, Hrishikesh Desai took over as chef-patron 

at Farlam Hall, moving from the revered The Gilpin Hotel 

and Lake House in nearby Windermere where he had won 

a Michelin star. With a goal of overhauling Farlam Hall, the 

celebrated chef has been hard at work. The Gilpin’s former 

managing director Karen Baybutt has joined Hrishikesh at 

Farlam and the alchemy has worked wonders. In less than a 

year, the Cedar Tree has been awarded its first Michelin star. 

True to form, dining at The Cedar Tree is intimate and 

immaculately orchestrated – even your menu comes with its 

own wax seal. Wine buffs will relish the tremendous wine 

list, while foodies will delight in every twist and turn and the 

locality of the food – lamb comes from the fields behind the 

hotel and local producers are highlighted throughout. 

As we sit down for predinner cocktails in the lounge, 

it is clear why patrons travel hours to sample Hrishikesh’s 

culinary prowess. Every morsel presented has a level of 

ingenuity, complexity, or simple beauty that – more often 

than not – elicits a ‘wow’. Hrishikesh gives his twist on 

several classics, and the menu is packed full of surprises and 

artfully sure of spice. 

Olives ‘our way’ are a playful nibble, a spiced duck liver 

‘cookie’ is perfectly crisp, with a sublimely velvety duck-liver 

parfait and zing of sour cherry gel. Roast and pickled Farlam 

garden beetroots are served with a savoury toasted coconut 

bavarois, while the fried fillet of cured Hodgson’s hake is a 

deft match for roasted pineapple and smoked sweet-andsour 

sauce. A rightful shout out to the staff here, who strike 

the often elusive balance of being friendly, fastidious and at 

the top of their game throughout. 

CUMBRIA’S BEST-KEPT SECRET 

Reflecting on the last 12 months, Karen says leaving 

Gilpin was not for the fainthearted: “It was a leap of faith, 

particularly when you’ve worked for such a high calibre place 

like Gilpin. But with Hrishikesh and his pedigree, you know 

you’ve got someone really special that can create magic with 

food. I felt we could make this beautiful property a stunning 

food-led destination. 

“My mind was made up on seeing the property and 

seeing the area and all the beauty around it. It’s not in the 

middle of the Lake District National Park, but in some ways 

that for me was the beauty of it because it had a lot of the 

natural beauty, but without those crowds.” 


“ 

The first year was all about good food, great wine, incredible hospitality... 

Now we are bringing in... wellness, sustainability and the indulgence. 

” 

“It’s been one of the most exciting years of my life. To look 

back on it and see what we have achieved in such a short 

space of time is phenomenal, really.” 

This year, the hotel is expanding its kitchen garden, with 

everything grown showcased to diners at the restaurant. The 

hotel has also welcomed a new colony of bees – Hrishikesh 

that operates from the site of The Cedar Tree when the 

Michelin-star restaurant is closed. 

The hotel is also introducing new treatment rooms, the 

first of which will be ready this summer. 

“The first year was all about good food, great wine, 

incredible hospitality. And that obviously continues as we 

move forward,” explains Karen. “Now we are bringing in the 

second layer, which is the wellness, sustainability and the 

indulgence.” 

Rates at Seaham Hall start from £295 in a Junior Suite on 

a B&B basis. Rates at Farlam Hall start from £274 for a double 

room on a B&B basis; pobhotels.com 

has become an avid apiarist – with the honey used in dishes 

and also the Farlam Hall gin. 

In spring 2024, Farlam Hall introduced a new casual 

dining addition in the form of Bistro Enkel, offering small bites 

and seasonal dishes. It is a more relaxed dining experience 


GET SET, AND GO 

Are you set for a summer of sport? Pursue your favorite British sport 

or try a new one with PoB Hotels. Embrace your inner 

sportsman, connecting with one or more of Britain's five most-loved 

sports through your travels. 

pobhotels.com

Competition time! 

LAID-BACK LUXURY 

Win an overnight stay and dining at one of three extraordinary boutique hotels 

The Signet Collection, a vibrant hotel company whose 

vision is to create meaningful stays in time-honoured 

places throughout the UK, has teamed up with British 

Travel Journal to offer the chance to win an overnight 

stay in one of their three wonderful hotels: The Mitre, The 

Retreat at Elcot Park, and The Barnsdale. 

The Mitre, the first hotel to open under the Signet 

Collection portfolio, launched in September 2020. It's a 

36-bedroom, Grade II-listed boutique hotel set on the banks 

of the River Thames by Hampton Court Palace. Rebuilt in 

the mid-18th century, The Mitre dates back to 1665 and was 

originally used as ancillary accommodation for guests of King 

Charles II. Think: country house meets the joy and colour of 

Britain’s boating tradition, or The Wind in the Willows does 

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and bar, 80-cover Orangery, a Whispering Angel terrace and 

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The Retreat at Elcot Park is the perfect blend of quirky 

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and substance. The Retreat experience is all about enjoying 

top-notch food and drink. There are two stunning restaurants – 

1772 Brasserie and the Pan-Asian restaurant Yu, – which set the 

stage for enjoying good times and exceptional food and drink, 


Scan here to enter · britishtraveljournal.com · 

shared in good company. Those looking to relax can enjoy use of 

the hotel’s Signet Spa facilities, complete with an outdoor pool. 

At the heart of England's smallest county, on the edge of the 

breathtaking Rutland Water, you will find The Barnsdale. The 

former hunting lodge has been lovingly reimagined, paying tribute 

to its history and distinctive local area – eccentric British flair meets 

refined, genuine luxury; tradition intertwines with modernity, 

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The Barnsdale's 45 bedrooms are perfect for a weekend in the 

country. With a timeless environment and a sensational menu, the 

laid-back brasserie 1760 – named after the year the original hunting 

lodge was built at The Barnsdale – is the place to enjoy good times 

and exceptional food with friends and family. 

Enter for your chance to win a stay in one of these three beautiful 

hotels. Good luck! The Signet Collection portfolio is for destinationdefining 

properties for discerning travellers, with more hotels planned 

to launch over the next few years across the UK. To find out more about 

The Signet Collection visit signet.ltd 

Pictured 

below left 

to right: The 

Retreat at 

Elcot Park; 

The Mitre, 

Hampton 

Court; The 

Barnsdale, 

Rutland 

ENTER ON OUR WEBSITE 

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Last entries 31 August 2024. Prize is to 

be taken before May 2025, excluding bank 

holidays, special event dates and the festive 

period and is subject to availability. Strictly 

over 18s only. Based on two people sharing, 

with a £45 allocation towards dinner. 


AN 

EXTRAORDINARY 

ESCAPE FOR ALL 

The Tawny

Planning a group getaway? 

British Travel Journal checks into 

Kestrel Cottage – a brand new 

countryside retreat with ‘wow’ factor 

at award-winning Staffordshire 

hotel, The Tawny 


A 

hotel like no other’ is The Tawny’s tagline, but 

‘ with thousands of hotels in the UK alone, this 

seems like a big claim to make. 

Nestled deep within the peace and tranquillity 

of sheep-dotted Staffordshire countryside, The Tawny 

describes itself as a ‘deconstructed hotel’. Since 2021, this 

new and already award-winning concept has taken shape 

within the historic Consall Gardens Estate, a 70-acre 

beauty spot near Stoke-on-Trent, which has been carefully 

transformed by two local couples. 

Instead of having one large building filled with hotel 

rooms, The Tawny has created various types of unique 

accommodation and dotted them around a series of 

picturesque lakes, woodlands and gardens. There are 34 

in total, comprising bespoke shepherd’s huts, treehouses, 

secluded cabins, waterfront retreats and more, all offering 

modern design, creature comforts and a plethora of luxurious 

extras, while completely immersed in the natural tranquillity 

of the folly-dotted estate. 

The most recent addition to the hotel’s offering – and the 

reason for my visit - are its Fledglings, a brand-new collection 

of swanky private rentals designed with large families and 


‘With the prospect of four double bedrooms, all en-suite, I packed the 

car with various family members. With various ages and stages in tow it 

can be a challenge to keep everyone happy, but Kestrel Cottage – the first 

Fledgling to open – promises to please all.’ 

groups of friends in mind. These smart, secluded holiday 

homes are around a 15-minute drive from the hotel and 

promise a carefully curated and deeply luxurious experience, 

in unique Tawny style. 

With the prospect of four double bedrooms, all en-suite, 

I packed the car with various family members. With various 

ages and stages in tow it can be a challenge to keep everyone 

happy, but Kestrel Cottage – the first Fledgling to open – 

promises to please all. 

We were greeted by friendly Fledgling host Ian, freshly 

made biscuits and a huge pot of tea in a bespoke Emma 

Bridgewater creation, whose pottery is nearby (tours can be 

arranged). Even our four-legged friend received a similarly 

warm welcome, including treats and a fleece blanket, to 

ensure that she too enjoyed her stay. 

Within minutes of arriving, we made a dash for Kestrel 

Cottage’s irresistible private outdoor pool. Designed for 

relaxation rather than lengths and enveloped by beautifully 

planted, carefully landscaped gardens, it’s heated to a balmy 

38 degrees all year round and shimmers with iridescent 

mosaic tiles. Complete with bubbles and colourful lights, it 

has a decadent table at its centre, presumably for a bottle of 

something chilled… 


corner of the terrace, overlooking a small stream and green 

hills beyond, sits one of The Tawny’s signature outdoor 

spa baths. I say ‘signature’, because every single type of 

accommodation at the hotel has one; all outdoors, in prime 

position for stargazing. 

Conveniently close to this splendid outdoor tub, through a 

set of French doors, I discovered Kestrel Cottage’s glamorous 

games room, kitted out with a built-in bar, a full-size airhockey 

table and a chic, cocoon-like cinema snug area. 

Under the watchful eye of a huge, hand-carved wooden 

kestrel, we happily bobbed around and tuned into the 

rural surroundings and peaceful chorus of gently bleating 

sheep, pheasant calls and resounding birdsong. With rolling 

countryside as far as the eye can see, we all marvelled at how 

tranquil and totally immersed in nature we felt. 

The luxurious pool is not the only opportunity for 

alfresco bathing at Kestrel Cottage; tucked away in a quiet 


‘ 

We... made the short drive to The Plumicorn, the hotel’s zero-waste 

restaurant, which dishes up a seasonal, ingredient-led menu.’ 

I then stepped into a vast open-plan space, filled with 

natural light and Farrow & Ball’s stylish earthy greens. It's home 

to a comfortable seating area; a cool, contemporary kitchen; 

and a large dining table stretched out beneath a skylight – all 

connected but cleverly designed to feel intimate and cosy. 

Floor-to-ceiling retractable glass doors overlook the 

garden, swimming pool and generous terrace, perfectly 

furnished with comfortable sunbeds, a firepit, another 

huge dining table and a Big Green Egg BBQ. 

As first impressions go, Kestrel Cottage certainly has the 

wow factor, but there are plenty of thoughtful and practical 

touches that make it feel reassuringly homely too – an elegant 

fireplace with an unlimited supply of logs; a utility room kitted 

out with all the mod cons; a smart coffee machine that uses 

freshly ground beans; and a good selection of teas and hot 

chocolate, ensuring that everyone can enjoy their favourite 

cup. There’s even a small, empty rucksack, ready to be packed 

for adventures. 


Upstairs, there is no short straw when it comes to 

bedrooms. Each of the four spacious en-suites offer unspoilt 

countryside views, privacy and a pleasing mix of calming 

colours, luxurious furnishings, and playful, nature-inspired 

Liberty prints, not to mention fluffy robes, flip-flops and soft 

stripey pool towels. Lighting is slick and cosy, and each lavish 

bathroom has something special to offer, from double marble 

sinks and huge walk-in showers to a show-stopping circular 

bathtub, all with the luxury of underfloor heating, too. 

back of one and made the short drive to The Plumicorn, the 

hotel’s zero-waste restaurant, which dishes up a seasonal, 

ingredient-led menu. 

Housed in an architecturally designed double-height 

space which crowns the estate, the restaurant has a towering 

glass wall that comprises one side and overlooks a collage 

of glistening ponds and stunning landscaped gardens. 

After much running around and delighted squeals of 

"look at this!" and "look at that!", it was time to eat. 

Kestrel Cottage guests get to enjoy both the joy of 

seclusion and the hotel facilities, with transfers in The 

Tawny’s fleet of branded Land Rovers. We piled into the 

This glorious view is reflected in plant-filled walls and 

brightly coloured floral fabrics. We tucked into an array 

of imaginative and well-presented dishes, which included 

a delicious leek and wild garlic tart; a loaf of fluffy mapleglazed 

milk bread; and a sensational sourdough waffle with 

maitake mushroom, Bath Soft Cheese and black garlic. With 

creative meat, fish and plant-based options, everyone was 

well-catered for, and a round of fiendishly good espresso 

martinis provided one final crowd-pleaser. 


After an excellent night’s sleep, thanks to heavenly soft 

sheets and Hypnos mattresses, the following day was filled 

with the kind of nostalgic adventure that unforgettable 

family holidays are made of. Less than two minutes from 

Kestrel Cottage, and just visible from the garden, lies a piece 

of local heritage: the Churnet Valley Railway. We heard 

the distinctive ‘toot toot’ and all raced to the track where 

we waved in awe as a delightful vintage steam train went 

chugging past. 

Kestrel Cottage is a good 90-minute walk from The 

Tawny so off we went, and it was a staggeringly beautiful 

walk. Weaving our way through unspoilt countryside, we 

wandered alongside winding canals, played pooh-sticks 

and stopped halfway for a veritable feast, thanks to a wicker 

picnic hamper that had been prepared by the hotel and 

delivered to the cottage earlier that morning. It was brimming 

with smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwiches, crisps, 

fresh salads, local cheese and more, plus a bottle of Prosecco, 

which more than fuelled us on our way… 

Arriving at The Tawny, we picked up a map from 

reception and embarked on the hotel’s ‘folly trail’, which 

meanders through the pretty grounds, passing various 

points of interest, such as a lovely Italian garden, mysterious 

grotto and several original stone follies. Had we the time 

(or energy) after our walk, we could have had a swim in the 

hotel’s stunning outdoor pool, borrowed bikes or indulged 

in a GAIA spa treatment, but by midafternoon, Kestrel 

Cottage was calling. 

Back ‘home’, there was time for one final Tawny-style 

treat. If you can’t bear to tear yourself away from the cottage, 

an array of hampers can be delivered to you, filled with all 

IMAGES © JAKE EASTHAM / JAMES ANDREW PHOTOGRAPHY / SOPHIE FARRAH 


‘ 

The table outside was beautifully laid, the firepit lit, and an exquisite 

alfresco feast was charcoaled to perfection on the Big Green Egg, accompanied 

by an array of tasty salads, fresh bread and more.’ 

you could need for a slap-up breakfast, hearty Sunday roast, 

treat-filled movie night, elevated BBQ, and more. Tailormade 

experiences can also be arranged, ranging from yoga 

classes and water aerobics to a choice of private dining 

options and cocktail-making masterclasses – or a fridge fully 

stocked with all the required ingredients, if you’d prefer. 

That evening – on our final night – we were lucky enough 

to welcome the hotel’s head chef, Andrew Watts, to Kestrel 

Cottage. The table outside was beautifully laid, the firepit lit, 

and an exquisite alfresco feast was chargrilled to perfection 

on the Big Green Egg, accompanied by an array of tasty 

salads, fresh bread and more, as well as some of the most 

delicious chocolate brownies I have ever eaten. 

As the sun set over the Staffordshire countryside, I sat 

on the terrace next to the crackling firepit and tuned in once 

again to the soothing soundscape. While some disappeared 

to mix cocktails at the bar and others enjoyed the privacy of 

the outdoor spa bath, I sat peacefully and absorbed the sense 

of communal content, and the brilliance of The Tawny, which 

is indeed a hotel like no other. 

Kestrel Cottage starts at £7,100 for seven-night stays (short 

breaks also available –Mon–Fri £3,200 and Fri–Mon £3,900). 

Sleeps eight plus two well-behaved dogs; thetawny.co.uk 


AS NATURE 

intended 

Stunning interiors, delicious plot-to-plate food and inventive 

natural wines… British Travel Journal visits pioneering 

low-intervention vineyard and winery, Tillingham 


Part of a growing movement in the UK, the wine it produces 

is what’s known as natural or low-intervention, meaning 

that it has been made without additives, using traditional 

winemaking methods and organically farmed grapes grown 

without pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals. 

Dew Farm, where the winery is based, dates back to the 

13th century and was, up until recently, intensively farmed. 

Today, the team at Tillingham is biodynamically breathing 

new life into the land, steadily working to restore soil health 

and biodiversity across the estate. In 2018, 44,000 vines 

were planted, and today, Tillingham’s winery produces 

around 40,000 bottles of natural wine per year, using 

Once reserved for sunnier climes, rolling green 

vineyards are becoming an increasingly 

common sight in the British countryside. Thanks 

to the recent boom in English wine – some of 

which now easily rivals Champagne – wine tourism has also 

grown, with several wineries across the country now offering 

the opportunity to visit, drink, eat and stay the night. 

One such vineyard stay can be found at Tillingham 

Winery, nestled among 70 acres of rolling hills and ancient 

woodland just outside Rye in East Sussex. There are several 

factors that make this British vineyard unique; firstly, 

and some might say most importantly, the winery here is 

considered to be one of the most exciting in the country. 


‘ 

There are several factors that make this British vineyard unique... the 

wine it produces is what’s known as natural or low-intervention... made 

without additives, using traditional winemaking methods and organically 

farmed grapes grown without pesticides, herbicides, or other chemicals.’ 

a mixture of its own grapes and some from other British 

vineyards that share a similar ethos. 

Many vineyards choose to cultivate a few select grape 

varieties; Tillingham grows an impressive 21. They are a 

mixture of French and German with the addition of some 

lesser-known types in order to satiate the winery’s thirst for 

experimentation. Considered ‘low-intervention pioneers’, 

Tillingham produces an array of wines that are most 

definitely far from the ordinary. 

Dynamic winemaker Salvatore Leone’s approach is 

based on ancient winemaking and farming methods. In a 

brilliant 90-minute tour and tasting, estate manager Tierney 

Beames enthusiastically explained some of these complex 

techniques, as he showed a small group of us around the 

surprisingly small but productive winery. Alchemy is the best 

way to describe what happens here; often unpredictable wild 

ferments are used, wine is aged in a combination of oak, 

stainless steel and Georgian qvevris (terracotta urns that are 

traditionally buried in sand for thermal effect), and nature is 

allowed to run its course, resulting in expressive wines that 

are both unusual and unique. 

Over the course of the tour, we tasted a selection of 

Tillingham’s recent releases. My favourites included a hazy, 


pale gold sparkling called ‘Col ’22’ – short for ‘Col Fondo’, 

an Italian term that refers to an ancestral method of wine 

making. Made with Auxerrois and Seyval Blanc, it had 

vibrant aromas of green apple, a zippy, lemony palate and 

just a hint of creaminess. 

care and respect as its vines. This holistic approach means 

that nature flourishes across the estate and the farm is now a 

haven for wildlife, which creates a wonderfully bucolic guest 

experience. Chickens busily peck around in the grass, and 

watching the muddy Mangalitza pigs emphatically enjoy 

their breakfast is a truly joyful sight. 

Another delicious fizz (‘100’; 2022) had been made 

using Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc grapes combined with cider 

apples, giving it a delicious whisper of cider-like funk and 

fruitiness. Tillingham’s Ortega-only white (‘Endgrain’) tasted 

like summer in a glass, with notes of elderflower, stone fruit 

and crisp acidity. Each wine was completely different, all of 

them distinctive and excitingly complex. 

As the vineyard is biodynamic and regeneratively farmed, 

it also treats its plants, wildlife and livestock with the same 

Beneath the farm’s esteemed, picture-perfect oast house 

sits a small paddock of goats, a pretty duck pond, and a small 

grid of planted herbs and flourishing flowerbeds. You’re likely 

to spot friendly farm cat, Bertie, too, happily rolling around in 

the sunshine. 

The other big draw at Tillingham is exquisite design, from 

the well-considered contemporary bottle labels wow-factor 


interiors. Former farm buildings have been transformed 

into several chic spaces; a striking and oh-so-tasteful mix of 

smooth concrete floors, exposed brick walls, exotic plants 

and pops of modern art and graphic design. 

The bar area is a mishmash of rustic and mid-century 

furniture; it has a cool, industrial quality, but flickering 

candles (in waxy wine bottles, of course), careful lighting, 

and statement flower arrangements add softness and an 

irresistible warmth. It’s all incredibly aesthetically pleasing, 

but not intimidatingly so. 

There are 11 stylish bedrooms located in the estate’s 

former hop barn, plus two sleek, high-spec bell tents in the 

summer months. Two larger ‘Feature Double’ bedrooms 

include Room 4, which has its own private terrace 

‘ 

The bar area is a mishmash of rustic and mid-century furniture; it has a 

cool, industrial quality... and an irresistible warmth. 

’ 


‘ 

A Roberts radio is the only tech provided – a deliberate choice by Tillingham 

in order to create a tranquil and immersive environment for its guests.’ 

overlooking the vines, and Room 11, which features a perfectly 

positioned freestanding tub. I stayed in the latter; cosy and 

cocoon-like, thanks to its dark colour palate and scattered 

sheepskins. This deeply pleasing split-level space is also 

immersed in natural light as a result of several vast windows 

that perfectly frame the sheep-dotted fields and rows of 

leafy vines outside. There’s also a sumptuous king-size bed, 

a spacious shower room and a small decanter of delicious 

walnut liqueur, made on a nearby farm. A Roberts radio is 

the only tech provided – a deliberate choice by Tillingham in 

order to create a tranquil and immersive environment for its 

guests. A wise decision if you ask me, as the instant sense of 

peace and serenity was glorious. 

Finally, there is the food. A relaxed all-day menu is served 

in the spacious bar, and in the summer months there’s also a 

large, open-sided barn and a lovely vineyard-facing terrace, 

with beautiful views along the Tillingham River valley, across 

to Rye, and beyond to Dungeness. Crisp sourdough pizzas 

come fresh from a huge wood-fired oven. An excellent 

Margherita and a glass of Tillingham ‘Dew’ – a luscious, 

vibrant, cherry-coloured red wine, served chilled – was a 

match made in heaven, while punchy garden pickles, wild 

garlic pesto, and a fresh bitter leaf salad made perfect sides. 

Above the bar in another beautifully designed space, 

with floor-to-ceiling windows and more glorious views, is 

where a refined dining experience awaits. Awarded a Green 

Michelin Star for its rigorous approach to sustainability, the 

restaurant at Tillingham serves a sophisticated, flavour-led 

five-course tasting menu that showcases produce from its 


nearby walled garden, surrounding farms, meat reared on 

the estate, and fish caught daily at Rye Harbour. Highlights 

included wafer-thin slices of celeriac with hazelnut and pear; 

a perfectly cooked skate wing doused in a light, creamy 

sauce, topped with rainbow chard and salty pops of trout roe; 

and a beautiful bright green and pink macaron, made with 

Alexander (a parsley-type herb) and sweet, fruity rhubarb. 

more than enough to set me up for the day. 

The sense of creativity found at Tillingham is palpable, 

from the attractive interiors, friendly, learned team, freshly 

made food, and of course, its extraordinary wines. I highly 

recommend sitting on the terrace on a warm summer’s day 

with a glass of ‘Spiral’ in hand – a mouthwateringly juicy, 

strawberry-pink creation with notes of crunchy apricot and 

plenty of texture. I took a sip and gazed out across the vines, 

listening to gentle hum of bees and watching as two buzzards 

soared overhead. How wonderful to sit and drink something 

IMAGES © SAM HARRIS / SOPHIE FARRAH 

There are two options when it comes to wine pairings: a 

selection of Tillingham’s top tipples, or an opportunity to try 

some interesting (and very delicious), low-intervention wines 

from around the world, carefully sourced by the restaurant’s 

hugely knowledgeable team. 

A leisurely farmhouse breakfast is served in the same 

beautiful space. There’s a simple chalkboard menu scribbled 

with the likes of soft-boiled eggs, mushrooms on toast, 

and the ‘full Tillingham’, but the steady stream of fresh 

sourdough bread, Neal’s Yard cheese, granola and fruit was 

so delicious produced with passion from the vines right in 

front me, made with no chemicals, and in harmony with the 

land. Just as nature – and Tillingham – intended. 

Rooms at Tillingham start at £175 per night with breakfast, 

bell tents (May to September) from £150 per night. Dog-friendly 

rooms available. Tours £35 per person; tillingham.com 


BETWEEN LOWLANDS 

AND PEAKS 

LOCH LOMOND HITS 

the sweet spot 

The bonnie banks of Loch Lomond are immortalised in song but this serene 

body of water is dotted with intriguing islands too. Come for a few days to 

hike untamed peaks, take refreshing loch dips and sip on delicious drams 

Text by Natalie Paris 

learnt, is home to white deer, while another has its own nudist 

colony (in Scotland!). 

I knew the ‘bonnie banks’ of Loch Lomond from the folk 

song but I didn’t know that the loch is the largest in Scotland 

by surface area (as opposed to volume). It is five times the 

size of Windermere and stretches for 24 miles in the Trossachs 

National Park, across a faultline between the Lowlands north 

of Glasgow and the glens and peaks of the Scottish Highlands. 

Osprey, red squirrels and deer live here and the shores are lined 

with oaks, undisturbed moss and ferns. 

From a hilltop bristling with bracken, a scattering of 

islands and islets lay before us; droplets of green in 

a sheet of still water. The horizon was reminiscent 

of a coastal archipelago. Yet, as the wisps of distant 

rain drifting along the hillside reminded us, we were not in 

the tropics but in Scotland. These islands belonged to a 

freshwater loch that wound between us and a neighbouring 

mountain range. Halfway up Beinn Dubh, and Loch Lomond 

had revealed its secrets. The loch contains more than 20 

islands and we could spot many of them. One, we later 


‘ 

Beinn Dubh... can be tackled from Luss, a conservation village. Slate and 

sandstone cottages that once belonged to miners and weavers run down to 

the shore. Rambling roses frame their latticed windows. 

’ 

Beinn Dubh, which means ‘black mountain’, looks upon 

the loch from the west, and its 642m-high heft can be tackled 

from Luss, a conservation village. Slate and sandstone 

cottages that once belonged to miners and weavers run down 

to the shore. Rambling roses frame their latticed windows. We 

tugged on our walking boots and followed a path that ran out 

from behind the village through fields. It kept climbing, past 

a rushing stream, damp woods and even damper sheep until 

we were rewarded with marvellous loch views whenever we 

stopped to catch our breath. More islands popped into sight 

at every resting point, while the loch’s white-painted ferry cut a 

steady course across the water. 

Up here, the wind had grown strong and swelled at our 

backs, so I was grateful for my jacket. Around our feet however, 

lay the most beautiful bog. Sparks of fiery orange bog asphodel 

brightened swathes of mud-saturated grass and gathered 

around puddles that mirrored the cotton-wool clouds overhead. 

We had been tracking our route using the hiking app, 

AllTrails (alltrails.com/en-gb), which would buzz if we strayed 

from the path. But it was too windy to reach Beinn Dubh’s 

summit. Thanks to the panorama, the walk back down was 

glorious nonetheless, with rare moments of sunshine casting 

light on the loch’s many bays. 


‘ 

I knew the ‘bonnie banks’ of Loch Lomond from the folk song but I didn’t 

know that the loch is the largest in Scotland by surface area... five times the size 

of Windermere and stretches for 24 miles... 

’ 

Back on Luss’s shingle beach, my aching calves cried out 

for water therapy. You can hire kayaks here but I piled my 

clothes up high near the jetty and instead slipped into the 

gin-clear loch for a swim. Gazing up at Beinn Dubh, a rainbow 

materialised above the summit. A peak to conquer another 

day, perhaps. 

Many of Loch Lomond’s islands have a story to 

tell and the largest are well worth a wander. A ferry 

(cruiselochlomond.co.uk) stops at mainland villages and the 

island of Inchcailloch. It makes it easy to cycle along parts of 


the shoreline too, with bicycles permitted on waterbus routes. 

Alternatively, you can charter a boat for up to 12 people and 

have the freedom of the loch. 

On Inchcailloch, bluebells fan across the forest floor in May 

and, at Port Bawn, there is a sandy beach where you can picnic 

and have a paddle. The island has a population of fallow deer 

and, during our visit, walkers told us they had been struck by 

the sight of a rare white stag among the trees. 

across the loch’s widest stretch, taking in Inchcailloch and flat 

Inchfad, a private island once linked to illicit whisky distilling. 

The ferry also visits the RSPB nature reserve at Inversnaid, on 

the loch’s northeastern shore, where there are trails and the 

River Arklet flows into Loch Lomond at Inversnaid waterfall, 

through internationally important Atlantic oakland. 

Loch Lomond narrows and becomes more fjord-like in 

the north, where there are munros to bag. These peaks are 

dusted with snow in winter, while in autumn the loch reflects 

the riot of russet and gold that blazes across the forest slopes. 

Ben Lomond, to the east, is the area’s most southerly munro. 

My AllTrails app described it as a popular but hard 6.5km 

trail that leads to a 974m-high summit, with some scrambling 

at the end. 

For alternative views, the ferry can cross to Balmaha, on 

the loch’s eastern flank, for a short but satisfying walk up to 

Conic Hill (361m). Highland cattle chew silently as a path 

winds up to a softly-rounded hilltop. Here, we looked out 


After a weekend of walking, I was glad that our hotel was 

not only based directly on the loch banks but that it also had a 

sauna. The Lodge on Loch Lomond occupies a peaceful spot 

beside Luss and you can warm your muscles in a small spa that 

overlooks the water. The restaurant and bedrooms face the 

silvery expanse too. The loch’s showpiece hotel, meanwhile, 

is Cameron House, a grand, turreted mansion with luxurious 

lodges and its own seaplane ostentatiously parked outside. 

The hotel also has a spa, plus a cinema and some great 

restaurants. The Grill offers a traditional dining experience, 

with high-quality Scottish meat, fish and seafood on the menu. 

Try the sophisticated take on typical cullen skink – a thick soup 

with smoked haddock, potatoes and leeks. 

For a final treat, we took a trip to the Glengoyne whisky 

distillery (glengoyne.com), which dates to 1833. It is half-anhour’s 

drive from Luss and produces a superior single malt. 

Our guide walked us around the malting floor, describing the 

distilling process but more unusually, also revealed a display 

of bottles that showed the colour of aged whisky at different 

stages and in different casks. A tasting followed, of course, 

alongside chocolate pairings, which were surprisingly good. 

Later that evening, as I sipped a straw-coloured dram at 

the hotel bar, the moonlit quiet of the loch was a reassuring 

companion. I had to remind myself that we were only a 

30-minute drive from Glasgow – how very bonnie indeed. 

Double rooms at the Lodge on Loch Lomond cost from 

£189, including breakfast; loch-lomond.co.uk. A three-night 

stay at Cameron House in a Contemporary or Classic room, 

with full access to Cameron Leisure Club is from £756 per 

room, including breakfast for two people in the Cameron Grill 

Restaurant, until September 30; cameronhouse.co.uk 

IMAGES © GETTY IMAGES / ISTOCKPHOTO / ADOBE STOCK / DEBBIE MACDONALD / 

VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / PAUL TOMKINS 


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TAKING THE 

slow road 

Instead of sticking to the usual thoroughfares, British Travel Journal embraces 

the art of unhurried travel by driving part of the South West 660 and finds 

tiny family run vineyards, rural thatched hotels near beaches, and pioneers 

of sustainable farming and fishing 

Text by Emma Henderson 

It’s not essential to be a car enthusiast to embark on the 

trip, just be sure to pack your sense of adventure. The route is 

broken into 12 sections and I'm doing the third segment, plus 

part of the fourth, from Exeter to Dartmouth. There are guided 

directions on the website, but of course it's flexible and you 

don't have to exactly stick to it, which is part of the fun. 

This more leisurely approach aims to show what's beyond 

the southwest's main road's service stations and to support 

local independent businesses. And there's plenty of them 

who have made it their mantra to look after and champion 

what's around them. One who has been doing it for 25 years 

is broadcaster, food writer and campaigner, Hugh Fearnley- 

I'm driving along narrow and windy roads on the South 

Devon coast. My phone's Google Maps app keeps telling 

me its 'rerouting', as my eta continues to increase. The 

app is desperately trying to make me turn left at every 

opportunity. But the car I'm following in our group onto the 

next destination isn't turning left. No, I'm not lost, I'm taking 

the slow road. 

I'm driving part of the South West 660 driving route. 

Like it sounds, it's a mammoth 660-mile circuit beginning 

in Dorset, running along Devon and Cornwall's southern 

sides, and looping back via the county's northern coastlines, 

finishing in Somerset. 


‘ 

After snaking down roads, we make a pit stop at Beer, home to Marine 

House at Beer and Steam Gallery, about 20 minutes away. The pebbled 

beach, flanked by chalky white cliffs, is full of hauled-up boats waiting to 

go out to sea again the following day.’ 

Whittingstall, who hit screens back in 1999 with his River 

Cottage programme. The River Cottage is where I'm starting 

the South West 660 on the Dorset and Devon border. 

Following Hugh's holistic ethos, much of the food at River 

Cottage's cafe comes from its 100-acre organic farm. We're 

lucky enough to have lunch with Hugh, and over pudding he 

explains how the River Cottage team are constantly looking 

at ways to reduce sugar and include more plants in the 

dishes. It follows on from his latest book HowTo Eat 30 Plants 

A Week. As we're talking, I'm wondering how it's possible to 

work this concept into a realistic diet, before he explains it 

includes seeds and even spices...phew. 

If you've got time – of course you have, this is the slow 

road after all – book one of the cooking school's many 

inspiring courses and stay at the original River Cottage 

farmhouse, which is now self-catering accommodation. 

After snaking down roads, we make a pit stop at Beer, 

home to Marine House at Beer and Steam Gallery, about 20 

minutes away. The pebbled beach, flanked by chalky white 

cliffs, is full of hauled-up boats waiting to go out to sea again 

the following day. Marc and Leanne run Beer Fisheries Ltd, 

the fourth generation to oversee it during the past 45 years. 

The little hole-in-the-wall fish market is just 100m from the 

water, selling the day's catch from The Lyme Bay Reserve and 

Brixham. 


Just a 10-minute drive up the road and we reach our bed for 

the night at the Masons Arms pub in Branscombe, a 15-minute 

walk from Branscombe Beach. Set in a valley, this bucolic 

village justice with the 14th-century thatched pub looks as 

'chocolate-box' as they come; photographs don't do it justice. 

The following day, despite it being before 12pm – and 

therefore not socially acceptable to contemplate an alcoholic 

drink – we head off to Budleigh Salterton's Lily Farm 

Vineyard, one of the UK's smallest at just 1.5 acres. Run by 

Alan and Faye Pratt, it was previously their horses' paddock, 

but after realising its perfect conditions for viticulture 

The inn's expansion has sprawled into the village, and 

my room is here in the converted cottages: the Branscombe 

rooms. It's so big; there's a separate seating area, a 

freestanding roll-top bath and a spacious bathroom. 

Huge beams, hung with boho-esque lampshades, 

dominate the peaked ceiling. There's plenty of sage green 

and heritage hues, floral patterns, vintage-look prints and 

decorative trinkets giving an element of The Pig or Soho 

House's style, but without the price tag. 

(sandstone slopes that are 40m above sea level, southfacing 

and near the sea), they turned their hands to vines, 

creating white, red, rosé and sparkling. As the saying goes, 

good things come in small packages and its award-winning 

bacchus is wonderfully fresh, spritely and fruity, so it comes 

home with me. 


Winetasting over, I'm now unsurprisingly ready for lunch, 

and we continue our journey and head off to eat at The Farm 

Table. It's one of a handful of Darts Farm's dining options – 

another grassroots business that humbly began 50 years ago 

as a roadside hut selling its own produce. It's also making 

substantial sustainability commitments, from its solar power 

running the farm shop and farm facilities, to using excess 

energy from shop fridges to heat water, and following a nowaste 

nose-to-tail ethos with its Devonian Ruby Red cattle. 

The farm shop's food offering alone is vast, where the focus is 

heavily on hyperlocal and southwest produce. 

There's also a vineyard, a cidery, a chocolate cafe 

(chocolate is even made on-site), a cheesemonger, and 

a butchery. It's a serious family affair, with a number of 

generations and copious family members working across 

many of its departments. It's wise to stock up on takeaway 

items and drinks here for any potential picnicking spots along 

the way, of which there are many. 

‘ 

There's also a vineyard, a cidery, a chocolate cafe, a cheesemonger, and a 

butchery... It's wise to stock up on takeaway items and drinks here for any 

potential picnicking spots along the way, of which there are many. 

’ 


‘ 

Wine bottles adorn the walls and mustard-yellow, booth-style seating 

makes it feel like we're in Paris, not Devon.’ 

Back in the car, we're driving south along Torquay's coast 

road, which has some of the best views going near Thatcher 

Point, with deeply curved sandy bays and a handful of 'rock 

islands' cut off by coastal erosion. If the weather allows, 

have that picnic here – there's perfectly placed benches on a 

grassy slope looking out to sea. 

Further on, one of the highlights for driving fans is 

Slapton Ley, an unusual road that is just a thin piece of 

land with water either side, where for about a kilometre the 

road feels almost as if you're driving straight over the water. 

After the quick thrill, we hotfoot it back up the coast on to 

glamorous Dartmouth to stay at the Dart Marina Hotel, 

where my balcony overlooks the marina. With the afternoon 


light, it's absolutely the spot for a little sundowner before 

dinner in Zephyr, the hotel's restaurant. 

As the sunshine continues, we spend the morning 

kayaking with Sea Kayak Devon up the River Dart to 

Dartmouth Castle, bobbing past the small sailing boats 

Don't miss the lobster langoustine fritti – as 

wonderfully decadent as it sounds, it's Mitch's elevated 

take on scampi. Then go for the fanfare of dayboat fish 

that's cooked whole over a charcoal grill and plated 

up at the table. Mitch has been integral in pioneering 

traceability in fishing, ensuring it's been responsibly 

caught and can be traced back to the exact boat and 

skipper who caught it. 

IMAGES © SOUTH WEST 660 / ADOBE STOCK / MATT AUSTIN / @FRANKIETHOMASPHOTOGRAPHY 

coming in and out of the marina. We can't help eyeing up the 

waterfront houses, many with their own little boathouses, as 

our guide James points out the most impressive. We think we 

see a glimpse of a seal ducking back below the depths, but 

James says sightings of them are quite rare. 

After working up an appetite paddling back to shore, 

it's time for the reward, so we head to the best seat 

in town, The Seahorse. Owned by Mitch Tonks (who 

also owns the Rockfish mini-chain of restaurants), The 

Seahorse is his Mediterranean-inspired brasserie. Wine 

bottles adorn the walls and mustard-yellow, booth-style 

seating makes it feel like we're in Paris, not Devon. 

Happily full, it’s a hearty lunch to round off a worthy 

journey. This glimpse into the South West 660 is a welcome 

tonic to our fast pace of life. Maybe it's time we all turn off 

our satnavs and get a little lost. 

Emma Henderson cruised the South West in the new Audi Q8 

e-tron (audi.co.uk), with improved efficiency and range, as well as 

a refined design. For further information, visit southwest660.co.uk 


LUXURY 

SUMMER 

Stays 

Embrace warmer weather in 

style by bedding down at one 

of these gorgeous properties. 

Whether it’s wellness, walking 

or a weekend with the family 

that’s calling, there is a hotel 

for every occasion 

Text by Natalie Paris 

1BEST FOR WELLNESS 

Combe Grove, Bath 

For health benefits that will last a lifetime, make 

wellbeing a priority this summer and sign up to a 

comprehensive, holistic programme, such as the Metabolic 

Health Retreat at Combe Grove. This medi-spa has peaceful 

valley views from a hillside outside Bath. Its weeklong 

programme comes with 48 weeks of follow-up support to 

keep you on track even after you’ve checked-out. Specialisms 

within the year-round programme include pre-diabetes, 

menopause and food addiction. 

Combe Grove’s outdoor pool overlooks ancient 

woodland, while the spa has a Scandi-style indoor pool 

and a nature-inspired gym. Accommodation is on site and 

in-room amenities are individually tailored to make stays 

more comfortable. 

A week’s Metabolic Health Retreat, with a three-week 

lead-in and year-long support from £2,600, various dates; 

combegrove.com 


2 

BEST FOR SOLO TRAVELLERS 

The Fife Arms, Braemar 

With a wealth of cultural and outdoor activities 

available at The Fife Arms, solo travellers will never 

be short of things to do. This artsy boutique hotel, with folky, 

dreamlike interiors, sits amid dramatic scenery in the Scottish 

Highlands. This summer, guests can pony trek to a whisky 

tasting, or head out on a stargazing trip, warming up with a 

dram in a bothy while hearing tales of folklore. 

It’s possible to learn survival skills out in the wilderness and 

to practise yoga and breathwork in view of local mountains. 

Capture the landscape during a day of wild sketching or 

photography course, or get inventive –design your own 

Scottish-inspired tartan or join a creative-writing workshop, 

led by professional writer and poet Gillian Shearer. 

A one-night stay in a double room, including a three-hour 

creative-writing course for one person from £773, various dates; 

thefifearms.com 


3BEST FOR FAMILIES 

No 1 by GuestHouse York 

There is lots for children to love at GuestHouse hotels, 

whether it’s the tipis that can be erected in rooms, the 

pantries that can be raided for goodies or the Yoto audio players that 

are available to borrow. Rooms for families also come equipped with 

board games, toys, bedtime stories and a Polaroid camera to have 

fun with. Plus, York has a host of family-friendly attractions to enjoy 

over the summer, including the interactive JORVIK Viking Centre and 

the National Railway Museum, filled with shiny engines. 

When hunger calls, you can fulfil your children’s wildest pizza 

dreams at the only authentic Neapolitan pizza maker in York (and 

one of only eight such Neopolitan pizzerias in the UK) acknowledged 

with certification by the True Neapolitan Pizza Association. 

One night’s stay for two adults and a child in a large guest room from 

£260, including breakfast; guesthousehotels.co.uk 

4 

BEST FOR GARDENS 

Bowood Hotel, Wiltshire 

Bowood House has a lake and 

cascades in its 100 acres of 

landscaped, Capability Brown parkland. 

Visit during the summer when the roses are in 

full bloom, the geraniums are flowering, and the 

kitchen garden is at its best. Guests at Bowood 

Hotel gain free entry and can head up to the 

woods to follow a trail past colourful blooms of 

rhododendrons and azaleas, carpets of bluebells 

and soft-petalled magnolias. 

Bowood House is Georgian, but Bowood 

Hotel is a modern-build property, with a small 

spa, located a short walk from the house and 

gardens. The hotel borders a golf course and a 

deer park and is on the Great West Way touring 

route between London and Bristol, an adventure 

perfect for slow travellers – based on ancient 

routes through idyllic countryside. 

A one-night stay on Bowood’s Garden Escape 

from £190, with full board and a tour of Lord and 

Lady Lansdowne’s Private Walled Garden, until 18 

September; bowood.org 


5 

BEST FOR ADVENTURE 

The Angel Hotel, Abergavenny 

The market town of Abergavenny is a 

gateway to hikes in the Brecon Beacons, 

as well as being somewhere to feast on gourmet 

Welsh produce. The Angel is a former coaching 

inn in the heart of town. In summer, walks in the 

National Park are less boggy underfoot. 

A manageable, half-day hike could be up the 

Sugar Loaf, a 596m-high hill that looms above 

the town. Alternatively, commit a day to master 

the trickier peak of Pen y Fan (886m). Cycling, 

paragliding and hang-gliding are also available 

and can be arranged at the hotel. Abergavenny 

Castle is only a short stroll away, as are a number 

of fine cafes, bakeries and restaurants; the best 

of which is The Walnut Tree, a Michelin-starred 

restaurant and the hotel’s sister property. The 

hotel also runs local foraging weekends. 

Weekend foraging break from £365 for a 

one-night stay and a three-hour foraging course 

on Sunday morning, end of June, July and August; 

angelabergavenny.com 

6 

BEST FOR BRINGING THE DOG 

Lord Crewe Arms, Northumberland 

These stone buildings on the North Pennine Moors were 

once a guesthouse for a local abbey. A log fire burns 

on chilly evenings, while there is a bar below ground in the crypt. 

Bedrooms come with woollen throws, while some have a window 

seat, a medieval window, a roll-top bath or an outdoor firepit. Best 

of all, canine companions can join in the fun and will relish walking 

opportunities in the countryside. Up to two well-behaved dogs 

are welcome in 16 suitable bedrooms, where they will find a bed, a 

bowl, a towel and some treats. Dogs are also allowed in the bar, a 

couple of dining rooms and in the garden. 

One night in a double room with dog from £204, including 

breakfast; lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk 


8 

BEST FOR CITY AND SIGHTSEEING 

Harbour Hotel Richmond, Surrey 

Reached via the tube or National Rail from 

London, this 18th-century hotel and spa makes a 

convenient base for sightseeing in the capital, after which 

guests can retreat to leafy Surrey. Feet that have pounded 

London’s streets can be soaked in a hydrotherapy pool or a 

Scandinavian hot tub. The hotel lies adjacent to Richmond 

Park, one of the city’s great green lungs, where woodland 

and roaming deer provide respite from the hustle and 

bustle. In summer, Richmond is a great place to experience 

the River Thames and the hotel offers paddleboarding 

opportunities or can arrange genteel rowing-boat hire. 

The Tudor grandeur of Hampton Court Palace is a short 

drive away, with Windsor Castle also easily accessible via 

train. Meanwhile, a couple of stops away on the tube, Kew 

Gardens is where 50,000 plants grow in the Royal Botanic 

Gardens. 

One night’s stay in a double room from £165, excluding 

breakfast; harbourhotels.co.uk 

7 

BEST FOR SEA-TO-PLATE DINING 

Cary Arms & Spa, Devon 

Sitting out on the terrace or at the Captain’s 

table in the summertime, feasting on freshly 

caught lobster, is a one-of-a-kind culinary experience. 

On a clear day, you can see Portland Bill, 40 miles 

away, as well as Teignmouth, Exmouth and Sidmouth. 

Resident seal Sammy, (who has a lager named after 

him behind the bar) is seen most days basking on the 

rocks or wallowing by the pier. Stay in one of their new 

stylish beach huts, and unwind in the hotel’s waterfall 

hydrotherapy pool with ocean views. Better still, with 

complimentary fishing rods guests are encouraged to 

bring their freshly caught mackerel back to the hotel 

for the chefs to cook it for you, presenting you with a 

delicious lunch or snack, lightly oven-baked and served 

with butter, lemon, and salad. Delicious! 

Luxury rooms at Cary Arms & Spa start from 

£220 per night, beach huts from £295 bed and breakfast; 

caryarms.co.uk 


9BEST FOR THE COAST 

The Headland, Cornwall 

Blustery walks are part of the appeal 

at The Headland, a landmark 

Victorian hotel in Newquay, accompanied 

by the sight of surfers catching waves at 

Fistral Beach. Take a surf lesson, explore the 

South West Coast Path or simply enjoy the 

beach before summer’s crowds descend. The 

AquaClub is a new £10 million wellness club 

built with natural materials and featuring 

outdoor pools that overlook the Atlantic. 

Further pools are found indoors and in the 

hotel spa. Accommodation at The Headland 

comes in cottages, rooms and suites. Cornish 

produce is king at the RenMor restaurant, 

with catches fresh from the dayboats, and sea 

views for miles. 

One night’s stay in a double room from £195, 

including breakfast; headlandhotel.co.uk 

FOR LARGE GROUPS 

Lucknam Park, Wiltshire 

Make the most of the 500 acres on the Lucknam 

10BEST 

Park estate by staying with friends or family in 

one of the hotel’s high-spec cottages. There are nine to choose 

from, with larger cottages sleeping up to eight. Some are located 

close to the hotel’s equestrian centre and two are brand new this 

spring. Each has a modern country kitchen, lounge, parking and 

a garden. Guests cosying up inside have access to all the hotel’s 

facilities, including its expansive spa. Complement a night to 

remember at the Michelin-star Restaurant Hywel Jones with lunch 

or dinner at the hotel’s new Walled Garden Restaurant. 

Two nights midweek in a three-bedroom cottage, sleeping six, 

from £2,080; lucknampark.co.uk 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 18 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Answers will be printed in the Autumn/Winter 2024 Issue 

Clues & Reviews 

Page turners and puzzles to challenge 

your holiday brains 

 

 

 

ACROSS 

1 The ---, hotel opposite Hampton 

Court (5) 

4 Top dining spot, --- aux 

Quat'Saisons (2,6) 

10 Perversely, possibly the oldest 

Thames crossing (9) 

11 The Lord --- Arms, formerly a 

guesthouse for Blanchland 

Abbey (5) 

12 Sartorial mementoes for just 

about anything or anywhere (1-6) 

13 Firm to the bite (2,5) 

14 Flight commander (8,6) 

18 Tarragon dressing (9,5) 

22 Alert to danger, run a dog 

ragged (2,5) 

24 Close in on the answer (3,4) 

26 Kind of power switch (2-3) 

27 Jazz singer widow of Johnny 

Dankworth (4,5) 

28 Well measurement (8) 

29 The ---, former Abergavenny 

posting inn (5) 

DOWN 

1 Superlatively small US mitten 

cut to ribbons (8) 

2 The Chelsea ---, formerly the 

Draycott Hotel (9) 

3 Solecism (5) 

5 Evaluate visually (7) 

6 Ideal rustics (9) 

7 Vast quantity (5) 

8 Made a big stink (6) 

9 Supplements (4,2) 

15 Worrying sight at a beach 

(6,3) 

16 Aping (9) 

17 It gives rise to gametes (4,4) 

19 Carries off (7) 

20 Collection including 1 Across 

(6) 

21 Trossachs loch (6) 

23 Combe ---, Bath wellbeing 

centre (5) 

25 It was a day off for Gene 

Pitney (5) 

ENTER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN! 

We're adding to our bookshelf... 

1 If you enjoyed our 100 Glorious Years article (Spring 2024 edition) about the iconic 

Scottish hotel Gleneagles celebrating its centenary, then you’ll love the limited-edition 

book, Gleneagles Stories from the Glorious Playground. Published to coincide with the 

hotel's special milestone, it explores the heritage, glamour, and timeless sophistication 

of this enduring Scottish treasure. Priced £91, rizzolibookstore.com. 2 The Hut, Colwell 

Bay, set on the water’s edge on the Isle of Wight showcases the best recipes from 

The Hut and takes readers through the history of the restaurant over the years. Priced 

£20, thehutcolwell.co.uk. 3 For a mindful journey, Slow Travel Britain features inspiring 

ways to explore England, Scotland and Wales that encourage a deeper connection with 

their landscapes, people and culture. Priced £35, hoxtonminipress.com 

HOW TO ENTER – Simply send your completed crossword (or the 

answers) and your postal address by post to British Travel Journal, 

Snows Stadium, Salisbury Road, Southampton, SO40 2RW, or email 

the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

GRAND ADVENTURE MAP – The National Trust's brand-new map 

with top places to visit around the UK (shop.nationaltrust.org.uk) will 

be sent to the first three correct entrants received this issue. 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 17 | SPRING 2024 

ACROSS 1 Elcot 4 Bramhall 10 Headboard 11 SECAM 12 Delayed 

13 Chewton 14 Anthropologist 17 Persian carpets 22 In a hole 24 Astride 

26 Epsom 27 The Goring 28 Necklace 29 Nodes. 

DOWN 1 Echidna 2 Charlotte 3 Tubby 5 Radical 6 Messenger 7 Ascot 

8 Lomond 9 Laid up 15 Restormel 16 Specified 18 Aseptic 19 Craven 

20 Sleighs 21 Eilean 23 Assoc 25 Troon 


Made by nature, crafted by Bramley 

bramleyproducts.com

THE HOME OF COUNTRY CLOTHING 

SCOTLAND AT ITS VERY BEST 

To request a copy of our Spring Summer catalogue please visit our website, 

where you’ll also discover more exciting brands and our latest summer styles. 

WWW.HOUSEOFBRUAR.COM

British Travel Journal | Summer2024

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