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SPAIN<br />
FOCUS<br />
Sometimes they need other grape varieties to fully<br />
achieve their potential, which is when the winemaker<br />
taps into the red varietal range permitted<br />
within the appellation area, using grapes like Syrah,<br />
Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Tempranillo to<br />
produce his famous blends. They also need carefully<br />
curated oak maturation to enhance their power,<br />
unlike Syrah for example, notes Cantos. In fact, he<br />
has created a single varietal, sulphite-free Syrah<br />
matured in amphorae to make the winemaking<br />
process more natural and gentle. Although he has<br />
a preference for blends, he also crafts single varietal<br />
wines, invariably made from unique blocks of very<br />
old vines. “They can only be made from outstanding<br />
areas”, he points out.<br />
JUAN PABLO CANTOS SERRANO HAS BROUGHT THE WINERY INTO A NEW ERA<br />
Traditionally, Almansa is a red wine region, but<br />
whites are starting to become a talking point. In<br />
fact, Bodegas Piqueras was the first winery to grow<br />
white grapes in the appellation area (Verdejo and<br />
Sauvignon blanc) forty or so years ago. It makes<br />
increasing amounts of white wine, often matured<br />
in oak to produce food-friendly pours with lovely<br />
volume and great freshness on the palate. Again,<br />
Cantos is not one to shy away from innovation,<br />
dreaming up ideas like creating age-worthy white<br />
wines such as his single varietal Verdejo Gen One<br />
matured in oak barrels – a first for the region.<br />
THE VINES ARE FARMED USING ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY TECHNIQUES,<br />
WITH NO PESTICIDES OR CHEMICALS<br />
Bodegas Piqueras is a pioneer and since it was<br />
founded over 100 years ago, it has always stood out<br />
for its love of the land. Its history is intrinsically<br />
linked to that of the appellation – in fact, it was<br />
the driving force behind its creation. Fuelled by a<br />
desire to showcase Almansa’s winegrowing heritage,<br />
it has made another leap forward by recruiting<br />
Juan Pablo Cantos. Choosing to go down the<br />
quality route seems to be reaping rewards because<br />
the bodega now exports to over 50 countries, including<br />
Canada and Finland, where it became the first<br />
Spanish winery to export. The company continues<br />
to amass good scores and medals, and Almansa is<br />
(finally) starting to shine. There is justice after all!<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
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