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LÉGENDES<br />
JEAN-MAX ROGER AND HIS SONS<br />
ETIENNE AND THIBAULT<br />
through the generations. Since 2005, it has been run by Thibault and Etienne Roger.<br />
“Our vineyards extend over 35 hectares, 29 of which are in the Sancerre appellation<br />
area”, explains Thibault Roger.<br />
Although the winery has always produced a range of wines, the new generation has<br />
remodelled its collection around terroir-driven offerings and introduced site-designated<br />
wines. “This meant we had to work a little harder to inform our customers<br />
about this type of wine”, admits Thibault, “but the approach enables us to enhance<br />
the specific characteristics of our vineyard sites. It’s our signature style”. And the<br />
vineyard sites certainly warrant this attention to detail. They are spread over the<br />
three main Sancerre soil types – flint, ‘terres blanches’ and ‘caillottes’ – thereby offering<br />
an incredible variety of soils, aspects and inclines.<br />
The winery’s international success, with over 85% of its wines sold in export markets,<br />
is a testament to the global appetite for wines that tell a story, that of their land. But<br />
according to Thibault Roger, this is not the only explanation: he ascribes the winery’s<br />
marketing success to a vision that began with his grandfather in the 1980s when he<br />
launched a trading business to ensure the company’s future. This allows the estate<br />
to produce enough volume to grow its international footprint. Although the export<br />
market for rosé wines has experienced some saturation recently, the winery has<br />
offset this with increased demand for its reds. Similarly, although Sancerre faces<br />
international competition, particularly from New Zealand with its distinctive Sauvignon<br />
blancs, Thibault remains confident: “Sancerre is a strong brand name”.<br />
The brothers are fully aware of present-day environmental challenges and began<br />
introducing innovative techniques at the start of the 2010s. New ground cover<br />
techniques and the use of green manure as natural soil amendments have been<br />
introduced, underscoring the Roger family’s proactive approach to sustainable<br />
winegrowing.<br />
12 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE