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SWARTLAND<br />
NATIVO WINES: LOYAL TO PLACE, NOT STYLE<br />
Kiki Hughes, Co-Owner<br />
and Head of Business Development<br />
of Nativo Wines<br />
SPRING 2024<br />
L 19045 - 55 - F: 7,95 € - RD<br />
PAGES 103-114<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTIONS:<br />
SANCERRE - CREMANT D’ALSACE –<br />
GERMANY – ITALY – SOUTH<br />
AFRICA – SOUTH AMERICA
Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com
CONTENTS<br />
COLUMNS / REPORTS<br />
10<br />
24<br />
42<br />
7<br />
News<br />
10<br />
Markets<br />
Sancerre, an appellation<br />
in its prime<br />
24<br />
Style<br />
Crémants d’Alsace play<br />
to their strengths<br />
32<br />
Evolution<br />
• Frederico Falcáo:<br />
“Portuguese wines are<br />
a world of difference<br />
• How Portugal has<br />
achieved outstanding<br />
international success<br />
42<br />
Terroir<br />
Revolution to Evolution:<br />
Charting the Future of<br />
Swartland Wines<br />
52<br />
Importers<br />
The way to a German<br />
wine drinker’s heart<br />
60<br />
Focus<br />
Juan Pablo Cantos, the<br />
inspired winemaker at<br />
Bodegas Piqueras<br />
64<br />
Terroir<br />
Piedmont:<br />
A kaleidoscope of grape<br />
varieties and vineyard<br />
sites<br />
74<br />
Appellation<br />
Roussette, Savoy’s star<br />
grape variety<br />
82<br />
Focus<br />
Prosit Group:<br />
From nought to sixty<br />
(markets) in five years<br />
86<br />
Discovery<br />
South America goes sparkling<br />
96<br />
Importer<br />
Classic Beverage, a focus on<br />
sustainability and artisan wines<br />
98<br />
Stars & wine<br />
Lily Collins: women have taken<br />
ownership of wine<br />
100<br />
Contact details<br />
102<br />
Spring selection 2024<br />
Sancerre - Crémant d’Alsace -<br />
Germany - Italy - South Africa -<br />
South America<br />
Subscription form<br />
Find out more about our<br />
subscription offers on page 23<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard next issue:<br />
Summer 2024<br />
COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
74<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
3
EDITORIAL<br />
FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
SOUTH AMERICA AND ITS SPARKLING<br />
ITERATIONS<br />
The South American wine industry is primarily represented<br />
worldwide by Argentina and Chile, which<br />
account for 80% of production. Uruguay and Brazil are<br />
also important contributors, even though Brazil exports<br />
very few of its wines. The iconic bottlings produced by<br />
three of these countries, which have long carved out a<br />
place for themselves in the global marketplace, are very<br />
much front of mind. Chilean Carmenere, Argentinean<br />
Malbec and Uruguayan Tannat have found favour with<br />
lovers of tannins and aromatic length. Alongside these,<br />
however, is a more boutique range of wines that rarely<br />
make their way into the spotlight – sparkling wines.<br />
One of the most dynamic segments in the wine trade,<br />
global sparkling wine production has marginally<br />
increased over the past few years. It averages at around<br />
18 million hectolitres in volume, equating to just over<br />
2.5 billion bottles. In actual fact, the increase in sparkling<br />
wine production mirrors the overall trend for global wine<br />
production. Its share accounts for around 7% of world<br />
wine production and has remained unchanged for the<br />
past few years.<br />
It may just be that South American sparkling wines are<br />
one of the next big things to come out of the region,<br />
which is why we went to take a closer look, in Argentina<br />
of course, but also in Uruguay and more surprisingly, in<br />
Ecuador. As you will see from our report (page 114), some<br />
South American sparkling wines certainly compare very<br />
favourably with their counterparts around the globe.<br />
4 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
EDITORIAL<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
PORTUGAL, A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE<br />
Portugal is now very much up there in the big international<br />
league. The days when locals drank virtually all<br />
of the country’s wines, bar a few thousand hectolitres of<br />
Port – a popular tipple with the English and the French<br />
– are now long gone.<br />
The inception of the Portuguese wine trade organisation,<br />
officially recognised by a Ministry of Agriculture decree,<br />
marked a turning point in 1996. Local appellations were<br />
then harmonised with EU legislation, cementing the<br />
quality policy of Portuguese wines. The regional wine<br />
commissions followed shortly after and would play a<br />
fundamental part in developing the quality and prestige<br />
of Portuguese wines, which boast 31 appellations and 12<br />
geographical indications. Concurrently with this, a new<br />
generation of producers and winemakers were trained in<br />
Portuguese universities, further enhancing the standard<br />
and consistency of Portuguese wines.<br />
This appetite for export has been fuelled by a number of<br />
very favourable factors, including myriad native grape<br />
varieties whose popularity in international markets has<br />
not waned. Portugal and its weather also act as a magnet<br />
for holidaymakers, drawing many wine enthusiasts<br />
to the country. Similarly, its very competitive pricing<br />
compared with its well-established European counterparts<br />
is an advantage, as is the fierce determination to<br />
secure international endorsement for the nation’s wines<br />
and to continue to ramp up quality. There is no denying<br />
that Portugal’s gamble is paying off!<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
5
EDITORIAL<br />
SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
SANCERRE, OR THE TRUE FLAVOUR<br />
OF THE EARTH<br />
In some ways, Sancerre is a condensed version of the<br />
French concept of terroir. Its landscape is distinctive<br />
with the village clustered around the top of a hillside<br />
crowned with flint pebbles that have survived erosion for<br />
several thousands of centuries. Here, geologists refer to<br />
an inversion of relief where the softer surrounding marl<br />
and limestone have been eroded whilst the harder flint<br />
has protected the land on the Sancerre hill-top.<br />
The hills west of the village cover Jurassic limestone and<br />
marl sediment and form steep inclines with small valleys<br />
like the one in Chavignol scooped from their midst. The<br />
asymmetrical shape of the landform is described as a<br />
cuesta and there is no denying that the area’s geological<br />
history has shaped the current topography, forming a<br />
home for just over 3,000 bearing hectares, 80% of which<br />
produce white Sauvignon wines.<br />
The unique chemistry between the vineyard sites and<br />
the climate coupled with this exceptional geology and<br />
the multiple layers of soils – terres blanches, caillottes<br />
and clay-silica referred to as flint – are what make the<br />
vineyards of Sancerre so complex. That complexity is<br />
further enhanced by many other factors, including<br />
aspect, incline and vine age.<br />
All of which provides additional proof of vines’ incredible<br />
ability to display myriad personas and to render so many<br />
nuances under a single banner – in this case Sancerre –<br />
from a single grape variety for each of the three colours.<br />
As the French author Colette*, who was born 50 km from<br />
Sancerre, once said: “In the plant kingdom, only vines can<br />
teach us the true flavour of the earth”.<br />
*Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette, known as Colette, was a French author,<br />
actress and journalist born on 28 January 1873 in Saint-Sauveur-en-<br />
Puisaye (Yonne).<br />
6 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
NEWS<br />
WINE TASTING UNDER THE STARS AT CHENONCEAU<br />
SATURDAY 20 JULY 2024<br />
Every summer, on the third Saturday in July, the chateau gardens, main courtyard and iconic gallery host this unique wine tasting<br />
which is the largest wine tourism event in the Loire Valley.<br />
Visitors can discover wines by wineries in AOC Touraine-<br />
Chenonceaux whose winegrowers are delighted to share their<br />
passion and will be celebrating the appellation’s tenth an niversary<br />
this year. It is an outstanding opportunity to taste their<br />
reds – blended from Côt and Cabernet Franc – and their whites,<br />
made from Sauvignon, in a majestic, floodlit setting conducive<br />
to strolling the grounds, glass in hand, from 9pm to midnight<br />
and sometimes even later!<br />
The chateau’s gourmet Orangerie restaurant is<br />
specially open for the occasion with a Food &<br />
Wine Pairing menu. Booking is required.<br />
https://www.chenonceau.com/<br />
Photo : © leonard de serres<br />
DOMAINE<br />
EDMOND CORNU<br />
2022<br />
DOMAINE<br />
MILLET<br />
2022<br />
FOUR<br />
WINEMAKERS<br />
FOR SPRING<br />
2024<br />
LADOIX<br />
39,70 €<br />
ANGELICA DE GABBIA<br />
CAVAVIN ROGNAC<br />
7 avenue du Général de Gaulle<br />
13340 ROGNAC<br />
+33 4 42 41 26 38<br />
rognac@cavavin.fr<br />
CHÂTEAU<br />
LA LOUVIÈRE<br />
2016<br />
PESSAC-LÉOGNAN<br />
39,90€<br />
DANIEL MATHIEU<br />
CAVAVIN SAINT-MARTIN-D’HÈRES<br />
7 rue Charles Darwin<br />
38400 SAINT-MARTIN-D’HÈRES<br />
+33 4 76 62 38 35<br />
st-martin@cavavin.fr<br />
PETIT-CHABLIS<br />
14,40€<br />
AMBROISE DIETERLE<br />
CAVAVIN SARLAT LA CANEDA<br />
46 avenue Gambetta<br />
24200 SARLAT LA CANEDA<br />
+33 5 53 29 15 61<br />
sarlat@cavavin.fr<br />
JEAN PERRIER<br />
Fleur dAltesse 2022<br />
ROUSSETTE DE SAVOIE - MONTHOUX<br />
13,50€<br />
NICOLAS DOUMERC<br />
CAVAVIN LIMOURS<br />
9 rue de Rambouillet<br />
91470 LIMOURS<br />
+33 1 83 63 93 96<br />
limours@cavavin.fr<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
7
NEWS<br />
A TALE OF TWO TERROIRS<br />
In this case, it is Cognac’s Grande Champagne and Arturo Fuente from the Dominican Republic, both of them home to two<br />
remarkable products, brought even closer together by the maturation of this Anejo N°46 format in Cognac barrels.<br />
It isn’t often our panel reaches such unanimous agreement so quickly in our special cigar-focused tastings.<br />
And we felt that with such a rewarding experience, we had to share the pleasure as soon as possible.<br />
THE CIGAR<br />
Arturo Fuente - Anejo N° 46 - Price: € 27.50 (FRA)<br />
Very dark, shiny wrapper. The smoke is effective right from the start. The style is harmonious with dried fruit<br />
aromatics, turning slightly more robust towards the middle of the smoke. Persistent roasted finish. This is a<br />
satisfying cigar showing restraint.<br />
THE BRANDY<br />
94/100 Cognac Drouet - XO Ulysse - Price: € 110 (FRA)<br />
Deep coppery colour with mahogany tints. The nose gradually emerges, driven by<br />
perfumes of precious wood, bordering on exotic. Right from the attack the palate<br />
shows great finesse and becomes increasingly powerful with a perfumed, silky feel.<br />
A stellar pour!<br />
The overall assessment: Truly effective with measured complexity, very palatable.<br />
The pairing: Remarkable with this XO Ulysse by Maison Drouet that proves to be<br />
very cooperative. The two companions share a honed sense of<br />
harmony and restraint that leads straight to a calming sensation<br />
and therefore to enjoyment.<br />
http://www.cognac-drouet.fr<br />
GOSSET 2016: THE FINEST PEDIGREE<br />
Gosset has unveiled its latest Grand Millésime which has been maturing<br />
since the unrivalled 2016 vintage, a year marked by very distinctive weather conditions.<br />
Cool, damp weather prevailed initially, followed by a hot, dry end to the season. This is a unique, elegant,<br />
delicate wine showing structure, depth and fruitiness. The contrasting weather patterns ultimately provided<br />
ideal conditions for crafting fine Champagne. It is both very different to its 2015 predecessor yet also very<br />
complementary. The 2016 was bottled in June 2017 with 4g dosage per litre and successfully<br />
balances freshness, fruit and vinosity whilst also preserving the integrity of the wine and<br />
its pureness, the hallmarks of Maison Gosset.<br />
Recommended retail price of €82 at all good wine merchants and direct-to-consumer at<br />
+33 3 26 56 99 56<br />
https://www.champagne-gosset.com/<br />
8 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
HONG KONG<br />
28<br />
MAY<br />
2024<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
VINEXPOASIA.COM<br />
#VINEXPOASIA<br />
9
SANCERRE, AN APPELLATION<br />
IN ITS PRIME<br />
BY CAMILLE BERNARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
Sitting high on its hillside, Sancerre keeps a watchful eye over the surrounding<br />
countryside with the quiet fortitude shared by the top appellations. This<br />
iconic wine region in the Centre-Loire region, renowned for its Sauvignon<br />
varietals, embodies a fascinating dichotomy – the simplicity of an<br />
internationally-renowned white wine appellation counterbalanced by an<br />
often underestimated tapestry of vineyard sites. In this feature report, we take<br />
a deep dive into Sancerre, exploring its quintessential traits, its modern-day<br />
challenges and the way in which this storied appellation continues to reinvent<br />
itself, fascinating both novices and connoisseurs alike.<br />
VINEYARDS BELONGING TO DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER<br />
10 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
LOIRE VALLEY<br />
MARKETS<br />
AN AERIAL VIEW OF SANCERRE<br />
For the average layperson, Sancerre, perched on the uplands of the Loire Valley, refers to a<br />
globally renowned white wine. And yet, across the rolling hills of the Centre-Loire region,<br />
Sauvignon blanc – the variety which made Sancerre famous – lives happily alongside Pinot<br />
noir. Covering 3,025 hectares spanning 14 villages, Sancerre is not just an appellation – it is a<br />
mosaic of vineyard sites where the terres blanches or white soils sit alongside the ‘caillottes’<br />
(pebbles) and clay-silica soils to craft an incredible array of wines.<br />
As early as Antiquity, vines were already an established feature of the landscape and down<br />
through the centuries, Sancerre has carved out a place for itself as the head of the family of<br />
Centre-Loire wines, securing appellation status for its whites in 1936 and for its reds and rosés<br />
in 1959. The freshness and finesse of its white wines have won acclaim among consumers<br />
the world over, but a more limited circle of insiders marvel at the complexity and depth of<br />
its reds and rosés which encapsulate both craftsmanship and a fine-tuned knowledge of the<br />
vineyard sites. But with celebrity and recognition now a given, how does Sancerre manage<br />
to maintain the same level of excellence, innovate whilst showing respect for tradition, and<br />
meet the needs of a consumer audience that is increasingly informed and demanding? This<br />
report offers a behind-the-scenes look at the most famous Centre-Loire appellation, a chance<br />
to discover its vineyard sites and the men and women who farm them, and a peek at their<br />
strategy for remaining at the very pinnacle of the world’s wine industry.<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER:<br />
“SANCERRE IS A STRONG BRAND NAME”<br />
In the heart of one of Centre-Loire’s iconic wine villages, Bué, Domaine Jean-Max Roger<br />
offers a quintessential rendition of winegrowing expertise that has been passed down<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
11
LÉGENDES<br />
JEAN-MAX ROGER AND HIS SONS<br />
ETIENNE AND THIBAULT<br />
through the generations. Since 2005, it has been run by Thibault and Etienne Roger.<br />
“Our vineyards extend over 35 hectares, 29 of which are in the Sancerre appellation<br />
area”, explains Thibault Roger.<br />
Although the winery has always produced a range of wines, the new generation has<br />
remodelled its collection around terroir-driven offerings and introduced site-designated<br />
wines. “This meant we had to work a little harder to inform our customers<br />
about this type of wine”, admits Thibault, “but the approach enables us to enhance<br />
the specific characteristics of our vineyard sites. It’s our signature style”. And the<br />
vineyard sites certainly warrant this attention to detail. They are spread over the<br />
three main Sancerre soil types – flint, ‘terres blanches’ and ‘caillottes’ – thereby offering<br />
an incredible variety of soils, aspects and inclines.<br />
The winery’s international success, with over 85% of its wines sold in export markets,<br />
is a testament to the global appetite for wines that tell a story, that of their land. But<br />
according to Thibault Roger, this is not the only explanation: he ascribes the winery’s<br />
marketing success to a vision that began with his grandfather in the 1980s when he<br />
launched a trading business to ensure the company’s future. This allows the estate<br />
to produce enough volume to grow its international footprint. Although the export<br />
market for rosé wines has experienced some saturation recently, the winery has<br />
offset this with increased demand for its reds. Similarly, although Sancerre faces<br />
international competition, particularly from New Zealand with its distinctive Sauvignon<br />
blancs, Thibault remains confident: “Sancerre is a strong brand name”.<br />
The brothers are fully aware of present-day environmental challenges and began<br />
introducing innovative techniques at the start of the 2010s. New ground cover<br />
techniques and the use of green manure as natural soil amendments have been<br />
introduced, underscoring the Roger family’s proactive approach to sustainable<br />
winegrowing.<br />
12 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
LOIRE VALLEY<br />
MARKETS<br />
DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT:<br />
“SANCERRE’S TERROIR REMAINS<br />
UNIQUE”<br />
PERRINE AND PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT IN THEIR VINEYARDS<br />
Perrine Raimbault, who works in tandem with her<br />
father Philippe, encapsulates the promising future<br />
of this namesake family-owned winery perched<br />
amidst the rolling landscapes of the Centre-Loire<br />
region. From her forbears, she has inherited<br />
time-honoured skills and is proud and committed<br />
to be a custodian of the family heritage that has<br />
been passed down over several generations. The<br />
vineyards are divided between the prestigious<br />
appellations of Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Coteaux<br />
du Giennois. Their soils boast unique geological<br />
diversity and offer each grape variety the opportunity<br />
to display unique traits.<br />
“From a very early age, I would help my<br />
grandparents”, recalls Perrine. The farm has undergone<br />
significant changes since her childhood,<br />
though, mainly with the purchase of vineyards<br />
in Pouilly and Coteaux du Giennois at the end of<br />
the 1980s. More recently, after Perrine joined her<br />
father, a winery was rebuilt which now means that<br />
terroir-driven labels can be crafted, “to produce<br />
wines with the ability to express their differences”,<br />
she explains.<br />
The vineyard blocks located on lovely ‘terres<br />
blanches’ soils in the Sancerre appellation area,<br />
which benefit from a unique microclimate promoting<br />
moderate fruit ripening, make this approach<br />
totally worthwhile. “Here, the ripening process<br />
is less advanced than in other areas so our wines<br />
remain naturally fresh. This also means that we<br />
don’t particularly suffer in hot vintages”, explains<br />
Perrine. She also adds, though, that the family is<br />
extremely mindful to protect the environment by<br />
maintaining hedges and trees.<br />
A dozen or so hectares are earmarked for production<br />
of Sancerre wines, 90% of them white with a<br />
balance of red and rosé. Export markets account for<br />
65% of the winery’s sales, with the USA and England<br />
spearheading the list of export destinations.<br />
Perrine aims to educate her customers about the<br />
added benefits of lengthy maturation for Sancerre<br />
wines, and has chosen not to add yeast to them.<br />
PERRINE AND PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT WORK HAND IN HAND<br />
IN THE FAMILY-RUN WINERY<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
13
LOIRE VALLEY<br />
MARKETS<br />
MATHILDE AND VINCENT NATTER HAVE SKILFULLY TAKEN<br />
OVER THE FAMILY ESTATE<br />
“To be honest, Sancerre white wines are known as<br />
early-drinking wines, but that is not my cup of tea”,<br />
she admits.<br />
Despite competition from Chablis and New World<br />
Sauvignon blancs, she remains confident: “There<br />
is a wide variety of commercially available Sauvignons<br />
but the terroir in Sancerre is unique”. Her<br />
viewpoint only bolsters the family’s determination<br />
to preserve the identity and excellence of its wines,<br />
that continue to reflect the tradition and innovation<br />
that defines their approach.<br />
DOMAINE HENRY NATTER:<br />
“A STRONG, COLLABORATIVE<br />
EFFORT TO UPHOLD<br />
THE REPUTATION OF OUR WINES”<br />
DOMAINE HENRY NATTER’S VINEYARDS IN THE VILLAGE OF MONTIGNY<br />
Nestled in the picturesque village of Montigny,<br />
Domaine Henry Natter was founded in 1974 by<br />
Cécile and Henry Natter. Their children Mathilde<br />
and Vincent are now in the saddle and are continuing<br />
to build on the family’s achievements with<br />
the same passion and determination. Since its<br />
inception, the winery has stood out for its pioneering<br />
mindset: “Sancerre has experienced strong<br />
growth internationally and credit should be given to<br />
all those who helped achieve this”, stresses Mathilde<br />
Natter. She particularly admires the trailblazing role<br />
played by her mother in developing export sales of<br />
Sancerre at the turn of the 1980s.<br />
The family vineyards are established on the clay-limestone<br />
soils that make Montigny unique and<br />
they produce wines that combine complexity and<br />
minerality. “The balance in our wines stems from<br />
the tension instilled by the limestone soils and<br />
depth is imparted by the clayey sites”, explains<br />
Vincent Natter. This dual personality is what lends<br />
Domaine Henry Natter its distinctive and highly<br />
valued identity.<br />
The challenges posed by climate change have<br />
prompted the winery to adapt by honing its winemaking<br />
techniques to preserve the hallmark freshness<br />
of its white wines. Vincent also stresses the<br />
importance of harvesting healthy fruit to maintain<br />
consistent quality in the wines.<br />
14 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
HARVESTING AT CÔTE<br />
DE BUÉ<br />
THE ENTIRE NATTER FAMILY<br />
THE WINERY AT DOMAINE<br />
LA BARBOTAINE OFFERS<br />
MODERN WINEMAKING<br />
FACILITIES<br />
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
15
LOIRE VALLEY<br />
MARKETS<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE<br />
Around 80% of the wines are shipped abroad and<br />
both brother and sister have witnessed growing<br />
interest in their red and rosé Sancerres, highlighting<br />
the change in tastes and expectations among<br />
international consumers. “We are really seeing a<br />
new trend with red Sancerre which is carving out<br />
a prime position in our different export markets,<br />
whilst our Sancerre rosés are resonating with wine<br />
enthusiasts”, explains Vincent Natter. By way of a<br />
conclusion, he says: “There is competition for our<br />
wines from those produced around the world but<br />
this drives us to constantly make improvements.<br />
Each Sancerre is unique though and there is a<br />
strong, collaborative effort to uphold the reputation<br />
of our wines”.<br />
DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE:<br />
“YOU SHOULD NEVER REST ON<br />
YOUR LAURELS”<br />
FRÉDÉRIC AND SYLVIE CHAMPAULT, OWNERS OF DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE<br />
Set in the heart of Crézancy, Domaine La Barbotaine<br />
offers a vibrant tribute to the family heritage<br />
perpetuated by Frédéric Champault and his wife<br />
Sylvie. The winery is imbued with a history of winegrowing<br />
spanning the generations and is the perfect<br />
illustration of the commitment and passion that<br />
drive the Champaults. Since he began working on<br />
the farm in 1994, Frédéric Champault has not only<br />
been successful in preserving this heritage, but also<br />
in enhancing it.<br />
With 18 hectares of Sauvignon blanc and Pinot noir<br />
vines, the vineyard is home to a distinctive mosaic<br />
of vineyard sites, equally divided between ‘terres<br />
blanches’, ‘caillottes’ and red soils which lend the<br />
wines their finesse and fruitiness along with a<br />
unique signature style. This geological diversity is a<br />
constant source of inspiration for the Champaults<br />
who strive to produce wines that reflect the variety<br />
and complexity of these soils.<br />
Frédéric Champault recalls how far the winery has<br />
come since its original 6 hectares under vine, pointing<br />
to its ambitious growth curve: “My parents only<br />
farmed 6 hectares and produced very few bottled<br />
wines. Sylvie and I have expanded bottle sales and<br />
exports, which now account for approximately 80%<br />
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of total sales. The wines are shipped to around 15<br />
countries”.<br />
Sylvie stresses the significance of quality and environmentally-friendly<br />
production methods: “We are<br />
mindful to produce quality wines by using efficient<br />
vineyard management techniques and by revamping<br />
our winemaking facilities. Every year, we<br />
question the way we work”.<br />
The winery’s HVE certification and use of grass<br />
cover for nearly half of its area under vine reflect<br />
the environmentally-friendly approach taken by the<br />
couple, who also share the same vision. “You should<br />
never rest on your laurels and always try and make<br />
headway”, is Sylvie’s steadfast belief. This quest for<br />
excellence meshes with the robust reputation of<br />
Sancerre – which Sylvie admits “does not need to<br />
chase after markets to sell its wines” – positioning<br />
Domaine La Barbotaine as a benchmark producer<br />
of Sancerre wines.<br />
KARINE, CHRISTIAN AND KÉVIN LAUVERJAT AT THEIR FAMILY-RUN<br />
PROPERTY MOULIN DES VRILLÈRES<br />
KÉVIN AND CHRISTIAN LAUVERJAT IN THEIR VINEYARDS<br />
DOMAINE MOULIN DES<br />
VRILLÈRES: “COPING WITH THE<br />
CHALLENGES OF THE GLOBAL<br />
MARKETPLACE”<br />
Domaine Moulin des Vrillères is located on the<br />
outskirts of the picturesque market village of<br />
Sury-en-Vaux. Here, Christian Lauverjat, his<br />
wife Karine and their son Kévin continue to build<br />
on the family’s winegrowing traditions. The<br />
13-hectare vineyard stretches majestically over<br />
‘terres blanches’ and ‘caillottes’ soils producing a<br />
range of Sancerre wines that mirrors the appellation’s<br />
diversity and varied geology.<br />
Karine Lauverjat is the winery’s marketing<br />
mainstay. She recounts a major turning point in<br />
its history: “Frost in 2005 convinced us that we<br />
should establish a trading business because all<br />
of our vineyard blocks were badly affected”. The<br />
initiative not only offered a life-line for the winery,<br />
it also expanded its portfolio by introducing wines<br />
from Menetou-Salon and Pouilly.<br />
On the farm, a constant quest for quality guides<br />
every decision: “Our vineyard sites are predominantly<br />
home to ‘terres blanches’ soils but we have<br />
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PASCAL JOULIN DEVOTES<br />
TIME TO HIS VINEYARDS<br />
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two blocks of ‘caillottes’ from which we make the single vineyard ‘Perle Blanche’<br />
label”, explains Karine. Their meticulous approach to winemaking is also mirrored<br />
in their environmental management – four years ago they stopped using chemical<br />
weedkillers and drastically reduced the use of plant protection products in favour<br />
of algae.<br />
In addition to their exemplary vineyard management techniques, their wines have<br />
garnered success in export markets: “Fifteen years ago, 50% of our wines were<br />
shipped abroad. That share has now risen to 80%”, says Karine, who adds: “The<br />
United States in particular stand out as a destination due to growing demand for<br />
white wines and for Sancerre reds and rosés. This demonstrates not only our versatility<br />
but also the winery’s increased appeal in the international marketplace”.<br />
The winery’s success does not just hinge on its ability to innovate and adapt to cope<br />
with the challenges of the global market. By acquiring a 500 m2 shop in the village of<br />
Sancerre, it has provided a showcase for Moulin des Vrillères and its world, inviting<br />
enthusiasts and passing visitors to discover their extensive range of wines.<br />
DOMAINE MICHEL VATTAN: “ENHANCING VALUE IS<br />
ESSENTIAL AND TO DO THAT, YOU NEED SALES”<br />
Located in Maimbray, in the village of Sury-en-Vaux, Domaine Michel Vattan is a<br />
family-run winery that has successfully evolved over four generations. It is now<br />
under the enlightened management of Pascal Joulin who joined it in 2002 and took<br />
ON-STREAM VINEYARDS HAVE RISEN FROM 2 HECTARES TO OVER 9 HECTARES AT DOMAINE MICHEL VATTAN<br />
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THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE<br />
MICHEL VATTAN NOW FARMED<br />
BY PASCAL JOULIN<br />
it over in 2008, totally transforming the winery. “Originally, all the wines were sold to<br />
trading companies, none of them were bottled”, explains Pascal Joulin. Since then,<br />
introduction of bottled sales has ushered in a new era and allowed Joulin’s wines to<br />
travel outside France.<br />
The transition has gone hand in hand with a significant expansion in vineyard acreage.<br />
Rising from 2 to over 9 hectares, the vineyards now embrace a broader range of sites,<br />
thereby enhancing the range of wines illustrating Sancerre’s rich tapestry of terroirs.<br />
Concurrently with this, Pascal Joulin has poured vast amounts of energy into promoting<br />
his wines, attending dozens of exhibitions – both trade and for the general public<br />
– from Paris to ProWein and Vinexpo Asia where he will be travelling this year.<br />
Joulin’s approach to promoting and marketing his wines revolves around a robust<br />
strategy of international growth. His strategy has paid off - 80% of the wines are<br />
now sold in export markets, with a particular focus on the United States where he<br />
immediately and successfully “found the right partners. Being a winegrower is a<br />
major venture, both from a people and a financial perspective. International growth<br />
stems from extremely hard work aimed at establishing strong relationships with your<br />
partners. Enhancing value is essential and to do that, you need sales”.<br />
In 15 years, Joulin has been so successful at promoting his wines that he now works on<br />
an allocation basis. The technique allows him to spend time in his vineyards, which<br />
he farms using environmentally-friendly methods.<br />
A self-described “opportunist” in the vineyard, he takes the same approach in his<br />
winery, crafting remarkable Sancerre wines. These include a single-vineyard selection<br />
with partial maturation in Chassagne-Montrachet barrels, along with a wine made<br />
from old vines over 80 years old that is matured in amphorae.<br />
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On every level, Pascal Joulin epitomises the ambition<br />
and revitalised approach taken by Sancerre<br />
winegrowers, embracing the opportunities<br />
afforded by a global marketplace whilst also preserving<br />
the authenticity and quality of his wines.<br />
CHANEL AND HER FATHER PASCAL GITTON IN THEIR BARREL CELLAR<br />
VIGNOBLES GITTON PÈRE &<br />
FILS: “OUR CUSTOMERS LOVE<br />
OUR HISTORY, OUR INTEREST IN<br />
TERROIR AND OUR IDENTITY”<br />
Founded in 1945 by Marcel Gitton with just over an<br />
acre of vineyards, Vignobles Gitton Père & Fils have<br />
undergone a remarkable period of expansion and<br />
now boast 36 hectares under vine. Run by Pascal<br />
Gitton, with the support of his daughter Chanel<br />
and wife Denise, the estate continues to excel for its<br />
commitment to vineyard management techniques<br />
that treat the soils of Sancerre with respect and lend<br />
each of the winery’s labels their signature identity.<br />
Chanel Gitton admires the accomplishments of<br />
her predecessors and pays tribute to the visionary<br />
approach of her grandfather: “He truly blazed the<br />
trail for single-vineyard winemaking and would<br />
hive off blocks even back then based on their locality<br />
before vinting them separately in barrels”.<br />
Although the technique is challenging from a logistics<br />
perspective, it has enabled the winery to stand<br />
out for its dozen white wine labels, each of which<br />
shows site-expressiveness.<br />
“We really do this for pleasure”, admits Chanel,<br />
“because having so many labels is not the easiest<br />
tack to take and we don’t need to do this to raise<br />
awareness of Sancerre. But people like it. Our<br />
customers love our history, our interest in terroir<br />
and our identity”.<br />
Her comments are borne out by the wines’ reputation<br />
which extends way beyond national borders<br />
– 70% of them are shipped abroad to no fewer than<br />
45 countries.<br />
In this instance, Chanel ascribes the winery’s<br />
success to her father’s fascination for other<br />
cultures. In the 1970s, his passion led him to explore<br />
new markets, particularly Sweden, making him a<br />
pioneer in exports of Sancerre to the countries of<br />
MARCEL GITTON WAS PASSIONATE ABOUT VINES AND TERROIR<br />
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LOIRE VALLEY<br />
MARKETS<br />
PASCAL GITTON PIONEERS EXPORTS OF SANCERRE WINES<br />
Northern Europe. “Even now, my father still spends a lot of time canvassing new<br />
markets”, adds Chanel, pointing to the winery’s relentless commitment to maintaining<br />
its reputation and standing out in a crowded and competitive marketplace.<br />
Its white wines sell effortlessly – “despite competition from German and Spanish<br />
whites” stresses Chanel Gitton – but its red Sancerre has also fuelled Vignobles<br />
Gitton’s success. “It can compete with Burgundy Pinot noir in terms of accessibility”,<br />
she concludes.<br />
NURTURING ITS REPUTATION<br />
As the figurehead of Centre-Loire appellations, Sancerre’s reputation has long been<br />
established. Despite this, its winegrowers continue to demonstrate their ability to<br />
promote their vineyard sites so that they can consolidate their existing markets and<br />
conquer new ones. They most certainly do not take their international acclaim for<br />
granted. The men and women interviewed in this report foster diversity, proving<br />
that even when faced with international competition they can reinvent themselves<br />
whilst preserving their heritage, in addition to crafting the Sauvignon blanc wines<br />
that have ensured (and continue to ensure) celebrity status for Sancerre wines. The<br />
Sancerre appellation is both timeless yet squarely focused on the future, ultimately<br />
demonstrating an admirable ability to grow its reputation.<br />
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CRÉMANTS D’ALSACE<br />
PLAY TO THEIR STRENGTHS<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
Crémants d’Alsace have been fashionable for a number of years and have<br />
achieved a skilful combination of outstanding vineyard sites and remarkable<br />
craftsmanship. Stemming from rigorous production procedures, the wines<br />
offer an appealing alternative to the legendary Champagne.<br />
CLOS DU ZAHNACKER WHICH BELONGS TO CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ<br />
24 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ALSACE<br />
STYLE<br />
VINEYARDS AROUND DAMBACH-LA-VILLE<br />
Only one major French wine region has successfully bridged the gap between internationally<br />
renowned white wines and quality sparklers for pleasure. Renowned and lauded<br />
for its iconic white varietals – Gewurtztraminer, Riesling, Sylvaner and Pinot gris for example<br />
– Alsace is also the home of a star-studded line-up of sparkling wines that are well worth discovering.<br />
The region boasts a propitious climate with hot weather in the summer, fairly sunny<br />
autumns and an unrivalled variety of geological formations. Aiming to produce radiant, racy<br />
and fruity wines, growers harvest relatively early to preserve the vibrancy and brightness of<br />
the crisp fruit. Crémants d’Alsace are usually blended from a number of grape varieties like<br />
Pinot blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and Auxerrois. However the single varietals are increasingly<br />
popular, made from cultivars like Riesling and Pinot gris, along with rosés and ‘blancs de<br />
noirs’ that are single varietal Pinot noir. They show great finesse and balance, adding charming<br />
mineral accents to a magical array of fruit aromatics and naturally articulate terroir characters.<br />
We have chosen a selection of examples that offer the perfect showcase for the qualities of wines<br />
that never go out of fashion.<br />
CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ: AN ODE TO TRADITION<br />
Its church, its three castles and its 13 th -century tower draw both holidaymakers and wine enthusiasts<br />
to Ribeauvillé. Located at the entrance to the mediaeval village, the Ribeauvillé winery<br />
is a popular watering hole. Established in 1895, France’s oldest co-operative winery embraces<br />
246 hectares of outstanding vineyard sites. As per its quality charter, the fruit is picked by hand,<br />
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GUILLAUME KESTER, A GRAPE GROWER IN RIBEAUVILLÉ<br />
YVES BALTENWECK, CHAIRMAN OF THE RIBEAUVILLÉ WINERY AND ÉVELYNE<br />
BLÉGER-COGNACQ, ITS WINEMAKER<br />
HENRI WINDHOLTZ, A GRAPE GROWER WHO BELONGS TO THE<br />
RIBEAUVILLÉ WINERY<br />
a tight rein is kept on yields and the vineyards are farmed sustainably or organically. Sparkling<br />
wines account for 40% of production and span five different labels: Crémants Giersberger, a<br />
blend of Pinot blanc and Auxerrois; Giersberger Rosé single varietal Pinot noir; Giersberger<br />
Chardonnay; Crémant Bio, blended from Pinot blanc, Auxerrois, Pinot gris and Riesling; and<br />
the Grande Cuvée, a solera-style wine made from Pinot noir and Chardonnay. “All of them have<br />
Brut dosage to make them fresh and suitable for elegant gourmet foods”, comments communications<br />
manager Célia Langlois. “The production process involves selection at pressing, traditional<br />
method fermentation and ageing on the lees for at least 18 months, which is longer than<br />
appellation rules where 12 months are mandatory”. All of the wines are made from hand-picked<br />
fruit and undergo static settling and extended maturation. “Because of the size of our winery<br />
and our stringent standards, production costs are high”, explains managing director David<br />
Jaegle. “Our winery stands apart for its level of recognition, the quality of the wines and our<br />
positive image which paves the way for export development”.<br />
MAISON ZOELLER: POWERFUL AROMAS<br />
The typical timber-framed houses line the labyrinthine streets, some of which overlook the<br />
Bruche canal built in 1681. Set in the heart of Wolxheim, Maison Zoeller is home to an impressive<br />
17th-century press which stands as a testament to over four centuries of winemaking. The<br />
vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically and are certified Demeter. The winery’s<br />
Chardonnay-based Crémant is made from grapes grown in two blocks, one of which is located<br />
in Grand Cru Altenberg de Wolxheim and is matured for 30 months. The portfolio also includes<br />
traditional Crémants made from Pinot blanc and Pinot Auxerrois, and a Pinot noir-based rosé.<br />
“We are reaping the benefits of having focused our production on grape varieties geared to<br />
Crémants since the 1980s”, says Mathieu Zoeller, who joined the property in 1992 after studying<br />
viticulture. “So the dedicated vineyards are an average 25 to 30 years old and develop great<br />
26 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
MATHIEU ZOELLER DURING<br />
THE DOSAGE PHASE<br />
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MATHIEU ZOELLER, HIS SON HECTOR AND WIFE<br />
CHRISTÈLE WHO JOINED THE ESTATE IN 2003<br />
THE RUHLMANN-SCHUTZ FAMILY<br />
aromas and body”. The property’s ethos has always revolved around producing ripe, healthy<br />
fruit, rather than relying on artifice in the winery. “The classic range is more fruit-driven”, adds<br />
Christèle Zoeller. “The percentage of Pinot blanc in the blend is high because the varietal is<br />
more delicate and more floral than Pinot Auxerrois which imparts ripe, slightly buttery notes”.<br />
LES VIGNOBLES RUHLMANN-SCHUTZ:<br />
THE HEIGHT OF FRESHNESS<br />
The history of this winery dates back to 1688. A Hungarian knight called Ruhlmann moved to<br />
Dambach-la-Ville and decided to grow vines. Down through the generations, winegrowing<br />
developed and there are now 40 hectares under vine. In 1994, the winery was given its current<br />
name. Laurence Ruhlmann, Christine and Jean-Victor Schutz left their jobs to join André<br />
Ruhlmann and establish Vignobles Ruhlmann-Schutz. The vineyards benefit from an outstanding<br />
location along the Rhine Valley, growing on the slopes of the Vosges at elevations<br />
ranging from 175 to 420 metres, where a geological fault line creates a variety of complex soils.<br />
The geographical distribution of the vines allows each variety to enjoy the most suitable site.<br />
Twenty percent of the wines are sparkling. “The fruit for our Crémants comes from vineyards<br />
on clay-limestone and sometimes granite soils”, explains export director Antoine Schutz. “The<br />
blend for our Crémant Brut is unique – it has a classic Pinot blanc Auxerrois base with a trace<br />
of Riesling for acidity and fruit input from the Pinot gris. These combine to promote maximum<br />
freshness”. Time spent on the lees for the Brut and Rosé Crémants is generally 12 months,<br />
rising to 18 months for the Extra Brut. “Obviously, we offer a great alternative to Champagne”,<br />
adds Schutz. “This is a real advantage in export markets which are demanding but growing”.<br />
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THE 17 TH -CENTURY CELLAR DOOR TO THE WINERY AT DOMAINE WECK<br />
CLÉMENT WECK AND HIS WIFE JACQUELINE, WITH THEIR SON MATTHIEU AND HIS WIFE ISABELLE<br />
DOMAINE CLÉMENT ET MATTHIEU WECK: CRAFTMANSHIP AT WORK<br />
A coat of arms dating from 1696 acts as a symbol. The Weck family is one of the oldest lineages<br />
in Gueberschwihr, a village renowned for its timber-framed houses and its vineyards. Clément<br />
Weck, who was born in 1942, quite naturally perpetuated the family farm before abandoning mixed<br />
farming in 1973 in order to fully devote his time to growing grapes and bottling all of his wines. In<br />
1995, at the age of just 23, his son Matthieu joined him after studying viticulture and wine and spirits<br />
marketing. “Crémants account for 20% of our production”, he explains. “The fruit mostly comes<br />
from old vines with blends that vary depending on the desired wine style”. Artisanal techniques are<br />
used in the vineyard, where machine passes – which damage and compact the soil – are kept to a<br />
minimum. Picking the grapes by hand maximises cluster selection whilst at the same time showing<br />
respect for the soils and avoiding compaction. “Crémant is an alternative to Champagne”, concurs<br />
Clément Weck. “But it is also a competitor because although winemaking methods are similar, the<br />
price makes it more accessible to a wider audience. Our selection is increasingly comprehensive,<br />
ranging from zero dosage to Brut and Demi-Sec”.<br />
DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ: TYPICITY AND FLAVOUR<br />
Time has worked its magic in Wettolsheim. In 1919, Jacob Stentz bought a village inn here and<br />
turned it into a winery. For many years, the wines were sold in bulk, but in 1960, Aimé Stentz and<br />
his wife Angèle gave the winery a new lease of life by showcasing the vineyard sites and production<br />
processes. Fifth-generation winegrower Marc Stentz, their grandson, joined the winery for his<br />
first vintage in 2011. Since 2016, he has run the 13-hectare, organically farmed property. “Our four<br />
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ALSACE<br />
STYLE<br />
JOCELYNE STENTZ AND HER SON MARC<br />
Crémants account for a quarter of our production”,<br />
explains Marc Stentz. “They are all different and<br />
display hallmark flavours and typicity that match<br />
consumer preferences”. The Crémant Brut Prestige<br />
is blended from 60% Pinot blanc, 25% Chardonnay<br />
and 15% Riesling. It is matured on the lees for<br />
18 months before being riddled then disgorged. The<br />
range includes the single varietal Pinot noir Crémant<br />
Brut Prestige rosé, the Crémant Chardonnay and the<br />
Cuvée Équinoxe. The Équinoxe label is harvested on<br />
the day of the autumnal equinox. It is made from<br />
50% Pinot blanc, which epitomises daytime, and 50%<br />
Pinot noir, which represents night time. “This fusion<br />
of day and night reveals two opposing forces which<br />
come together in a harmonious blend”, adds Stentz.<br />
“The wine offers an interplay between the sunlight,<br />
which imbues it with power, and the darkness of the<br />
winery which lends it its freshness and finesse. It is<br />
important to distinguish between Crémant d’Alsace<br />
and Champagne. They don’t necessarily come from<br />
the same types of soils, grape varieties or blends. We<br />
need to hold our heads high when it comes to our<br />
prestigious neighbours”.<br />
KUEHN ALSACE WINES:<br />
CONTINUITY OF STYLE<br />
WORK IN THE WINERY AT DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ<br />
Set in the heart of Alsace, Ammerschwihr unfurls<br />
its sun-blessed hills and uniquely shaped vineyard<br />
sites. Its varied soils are formed of granite, limestone<br />
and schist with a marly-limestone subsoil<br />
which promote outstanding wines, enhanced<br />
by winemaking rules that foster excellence and<br />
authenticity. The Kuehn trading company produces<br />
250,000 bottles a year of complex, quality sparkling<br />
wines. “We use 20% reserve wines to ensure continuity<br />
in the house style and erase vintage variation”,<br />
explains Timothée Boltz, the company’s managing<br />
director. “For the Crémant 1675, we prefer to extend<br />
the maturation period on the lees to 7 years. The<br />
aim is to make the wines more palate-friendly by<br />
softening acidities and offering complex, delicate<br />
wines where enjoyment is the primary focus”. The<br />
company has developed a range that resonates with<br />
consumer preferences, with a variety of sweetness<br />
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ALSACE<br />
STYLE<br />
levels – Extra-Brut, Brut and Demi-Sec – whites<br />
and rosés, Chardonnay and Pinot noir grape varieties<br />
and organic farming techniques, where there<br />
is a style to suit every taste. “Depending on sales<br />
and markets, our aim is to anticipate maturation<br />
times on the lees which offer a genuine guarantee<br />
of quality”, adds technical and winemaking director<br />
Nicolas Garde. “The wines are mostly blended from<br />
Pinot blanc and Auxerrois grown over a broad range<br />
of complementary vineyard sites. Our Crémants<br />
have nothing to be ashamed of compared with<br />
Champagnes, as evidenced by the 80% surge in<br />
sales over three years. We have the potential to<br />
supply wines in the future whose quality continues<br />
to increase and which align with consumer trends”.<br />
HAVE A WINEGROWER’S BREAK AT DOMAINE KUEHN<br />
UNWAVERING SUCCESS<br />
The Crémant d’Alsace appellation was officialised by<br />
decree in 1976 and has established a place for itself as<br />
the most widely drunk sparkling wine for at-home<br />
consumption in France after Champagne. Legal<br />
specifications are strict and standards are stringent<br />
for the 500 producers that belong to the Crémant<br />
d’Alsace producers’ organisation, ensuring a high<br />
quality product. “Since the 1990s, sales have followed<br />
a constant, regular upward trend”, points out the<br />
organisation’s managing director Olivier Sohler.<br />
“Our sales have now reached 40 million bottles<br />
annually, 22% of them in export markets, with<br />
growth in Europe, Eastern European countries and<br />
the United States. The rate of growth can be ascribed<br />
mainly to consumer trends and reasonable pricing”.<br />
Sparkling wines in Alsace now boast a 33% share by<br />
volume, which is a record. “Our direct-to-consumer<br />
markets don’t compare us with other sparkling<br />
wines or Champagne because demand is specific”,<br />
stresses Mathieu Zoeller from Maison Zoeller. “What<br />
our local and non-local customers mostly want is a<br />
quality product with suitable pricing”. The popularity<br />
of the French industry has now filtered through<br />
to export markets across-the-board, with wines that<br />
align with consumer expectations around the world.<br />
Their success is undeniable.<br />
A FESTIVE OCCASION FOR THE STAFF AT KUEHN ALSACE WINES<br />
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FREDERICO FALCÁO: “PORTUGUESE WINES<br />
ARE A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE”<br />
BY SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
We interviewed the chairman of Wines of Portugal, Frederico Falcáo, to gain<br />
a better understanding of the country’s wine scene and the major milestones<br />
in its recent development.<br />
FREDERICO FALCÁO<br />
32 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PORTUGAL<br />
EVOLUTION<br />
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, FREDERICO FALCAO, SYLVAIN PATARD AND ETIENNE GAILLARD ON<br />
THE PORTUGUESE WINE PAVILION AT WINE PARIS 2024<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard: Will Wine Paris become more important to your<br />
strategy next year than say ProWein or will ProWein remain the seminal<br />
event for you?<br />
Frederico Falcáo: It’s the million dollar question! The trend I see is that Vinexpo-Wine<br />
Paris is growing and it’s becoming more international so it’s different<br />
to Vinexpo when it was in Bordeaux. Then, it was mostly French wines, now<br />
it’s not so much like that. It’s becoming more international, even in terms of<br />
buyers – a large percentage are buyers from outside France. Also, the trend we<br />
are seeing among producers, among our wine producers and people from all the<br />
other countries, is the same and that is that the fair is growing, and the trend<br />
is to disinvest a little in ProWein. So if you ask me, my perception is that Vinexpo-Wine<br />
Paris will become bigger than ProWein. I don’t know if it will take five<br />
or ten years, but my expectation is that it is going to be bigger than ProWein.<br />
G & G: In terms of visitors, which markets are producers looking for?<br />
F. F.: I would say all of them, because I’ve heard people talking about buyers from<br />
Cameroon in Africa, Ukraine, Japan, Russia, the United States and Canada, so<br />
every country. There’s a lot of people from outside France and outside Europe<br />
even, so I think it’s growing. That’s the big challenge for this fair – we are all<br />
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33
NEARLY 150 PORTUGUESE<br />
EXHIBITORS ATTENDED<br />
WINE PARIS IN 2024<br />
trying to grow. Portugal is growing, Spain, Italy, maybe Chile’s coming in next<br />
year. A lot of exhibitors are growing, so the organisers need to capture more<br />
buyers, otherwise a lot of people will be showing their wines but no-one will be<br />
there to buy them. So the big challenge is to attract more buyers to the fair. But<br />
so far, they’ve been successful in bringing in a lot of people. That’s the trend I see.<br />
G & G: What are your thoughts on Italy?<br />
F. F.: Yes, Italy’s growing very fast, so next year they will have a big pavilion just<br />
for them. They are also disinvesting a lot in ProWein. I think this wine fair is<br />
doing very well and that it was a smart move to switch to Paris from Bordeaux.<br />
It’s nicer to be in Paris, the hotels are not as expensive as they were in Bordeaux<br />
or they are in Dusseldorf. It’s easier to fly into Paris than it is to other places<br />
and it’s more sexy, more attractive to come to Paris instead of Dusseldorf or<br />
Bordeaux. So it was a smart move and I think that’s an important part of the<br />
success and the growth of this event.<br />
G & G: Portuguese wine production has changed a lot over the past few years,<br />
with increased exports. Can you explain about this development?<br />
F. F.: We know that we export on average 47% of what we produce. So nowadays,<br />
almost half of our production is exported. Portugal has been producing wines<br />
since Roman times and even before then. But during the 20th century, we were<br />
closed and only focused on the domestic market. In the 1980s we didn’t export<br />
that much wine. Portuguese consumers drink a lot – we are the largest per capita<br />
wine consumers in the world – so we didn’t feel the need to export our wines<br />
and to show our wines to the world. And then suddenly, I would say in the 1980s<br />
and 1990s, we started to look outside of our country and try to export more of<br />
our wines. Thirty years ago, nobody knew about Portuguese wines, except for<br />
34 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PORTUGAL<br />
EVOLUTION<br />
Port of course. But then when we started to show<br />
our wines to the world, and to demonstrate how<br />
different our wines are, because we have different<br />
grape varieties, native grape varieties, different<br />
terroirs, it was a surprise for everyone. And<br />
I think this explains some of the success of our<br />
exports. Also, we came together under the same<br />
logo, Wines of Portugal, and that helps communications<br />
a lot to explain our country and to<br />
create a mass image of Portugal. The third factor<br />
is tourism, which in Portugal increased very fast<br />
over the same period. That helps a lot because<br />
people visit Portugal, try the wines, are surprised<br />
by them and when they go back to their countries,<br />
they drink more Portuguese wines and talk<br />
about Portuguese wines to their friends. We see a<br />
very strong connection between tourism and our<br />
exports to those countries.<br />
TRELLISED VINHO VERDE VINEYARDS PROVIDE SHADE FOR AN AFTERNOON WALK<br />
G & G: How about the style of the wines?<br />
F. F.: I think we’re becoming more international<br />
because if you taste the wines from the 1970s or<br />
1980s in Portugal, they were different. Then when<br />
we started to look outside of our country, and the<br />
young generations who are now in their 40s and<br />
50s started to travel a lot and go to other wine<br />
regions to taste the wines and even work there,<br />
that made producers more open-minded. So they<br />
started to make wines using our own grapes but<br />
in a more international style, making them easier<br />
for consumers to like and understand.<br />
AUTUMN VINEYARDS IN THE MOUNTAINS AT ARRABIDA, SETUBAL, PORTUGAL<br />
G & G: What are the new markets for Portuguese<br />
wines?<br />
F. F.: We export all over the world of course, but<br />
as Wines of Portugal, we promote in 21 markets.<br />
Surprisingly, our main market for exports is<br />
France – it’s our number one market because<br />
of Port – then it’s the United States, UK, Brazil,<br />
Canada, Netherlands, Germany, and many<br />
others. These are the main markets but we export<br />
to almost every country around the world.<br />
G & G: Is domestic consumption still strong?<br />
F. F.: Domestic consumption is very strong. As<br />
Portuguese, we drink a lot of wine, but the very<br />
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THE RIVER DOURO NEAR THE<br />
MOUTH OF THE RIVER COA<br />
high levels of consumption in Portugal are also due to tourism, because drinking<br />
wine in Portugal is not that expensive. In Lisbon it’s a little more expensive now<br />
due to tourism, but if you drive just half an hour inland and drink wine in a<br />
restaurant, you can get a good wine for 15 or 20 euros, and that does not exist<br />
elsewhere in Europe or the world. If you go to a small town near Lisbon or Oporto<br />
and you go to a nice restaurant, people are surprised by the prices and drink a lot.<br />
G & G: Is this why the wines are successful?<br />
F. F.: Yes, that’s why the total consumption in Portugal is very high. When you<br />
divide that between 10 million Portuguese people, you get a very high per capita<br />
consumption level, but it’s not just the Portuguese drinking the wine.<br />
G & G: What is the main message Wines of Portugal delivers?<br />
F. F.: Our main message is that Portugal is truly a world of difference. Every<br />
part of the country has a wine region and we have good wines in every region<br />
of Portugal, which normally does not exist in other countries. There is huge<br />
diversity. If you go to Vinho Verde, it’s a cool area with granite soils and high<br />
rainfall. It is more suited to white wines. Then you drive an hour to the Douro<br />
Valley, where the soils are schist, it is very hot, very dry, and the focus is more<br />
on red wines. If you go down to Dao, everything changes again. So there’s huge<br />
diversity in a very small country. There is also a great number of native grape<br />
varieties, which makes a difference. In a very small country we can produce all<br />
styles of wine, we have different terroirs and native grape varieties, so this is<br />
truly a world of difference.<br />
36 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
HOW PORTUGAL HAS ACHIEVED<br />
OUTSTANDING INTERNATIONAL<br />
SUCCESS<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
Last February, over 150 Portuguese exhibitors took part in the fifth Wine Paris<br />
& Vinexpo Paris, underscoring just how significant Portugal has become in<br />
the international wine arena. Long focused on their domestic market, the<br />
country’s wine producers have garnered global acclaim and exports have risen<br />
accordingly. Frederico Falcão, chairman of Wines of Portugal, along with<br />
representatives from three Portuguese companies explain how this small wine<br />
revolution came about.<br />
SUSTAINABLE FARMING TECHNIQUES ARE THE NORM IN THE VINEYARDS AT VICENTE FARIA, WHICH ARE DRY FARMED WITH NO FERTILISERS<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
37
THE TEAM AT<br />
VICENTE FARIA<br />
Frederico Falcão and the winegrowers we met concur that there are several reasons<br />
behind booming Portuguese wine sales, but that the decision by producers over the<br />
past few years to embrace a more international style – without compromising on their<br />
inherent character – has made all the difference. Producers have begun crafting wines in<br />
a more modern style without turning their backs on their 250-plus native grape varieties<br />
– which certainly leaves plenty of scope for exploration. Neither have they shunned their<br />
time-honoured tradition of blends and other winemaking techniques, nor forgotten to<br />
showcase the extensive variety of Portuguese vineyard sites or terroirs, which can only be<br />
good news.<br />
VICENTE FARIA, OPTING FOR NATIVE GRAPES<br />
Paula Gamba from the marketing department of Douro company Vicente Faria – whose<br />
history spans an impressive two centuries – confirms that the winery has introduced no<br />
new grape varieties over the past few years. It has always focused on native varietals to craft<br />
its famous Port and dry wines. For the reds, these are Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga<br />
Nacional, Trincadeira, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão, complemented by Loureiro and Arinto<br />
for the whites. Changes, however, have occurred in terms of selection – quality vines<br />
are carefully identified and the fruit is meticulously selected to produce wines showing<br />
outstanding character. The same painstaking attention to detail is applied in the winery,<br />
where the wines are fermented at controlled temperatures and maturation programmes<br />
are thoughtfully curated, for example.<br />
“The wines are more fruity and elegant and are a better match for the needs of foreign<br />
consumers”, explains Gamba. So much so that the company currently exports 95% of its<br />
wines – a fairly rare occurrence – primarily to countries such as the United Kingdom, the<br />
United States, Belgium, Switzerland and Poland. “Domestic consumption remains high,<br />
despite a saturated marketplace”, adds Gamba. That’s because “Portugal is the country with<br />
the highest per capita wine consumption in the world”.<br />
Winemaker Vicente Leite de Faria, the seventh winegrower in the family, is currently<br />
38 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THE HISTORY OF VICENTE<br />
FARIA DATES BACK TO THE<br />
18 TH CENTURY<br />
THE ADEGA OR WINERY<br />
IS LOCATED IN A PART OF<br />
NORTHERN PORTUGAL WHICH<br />
OVERLOOKS THE ATLANTIC<br />
APPROXIMATELY 62% OF<br />
BACALHÔA’S SALES COME<br />
FROM THE DOMESTIC MARKET,<br />
WITH THE BALANCE STEMMING<br />
FROM EXPORTS<br />
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
39
PORTUGAL<br />
EVOLUTION<br />
IN 2007, CAVES CAMPELO WAS BOUGHT BY JOSÉ CARLOS LIMA & FILHOS<br />
tasked with producing Vicente Faria wines. He<br />
draws on the expertise he has garnered since childhood,<br />
with his grandfather on the steep hillsides of<br />
the Douro Valley, and from studying in Bordeaux<br />
to craft delicious pours that appeal the world over,<br />
and whose quality is endorsed by the multiple<br />
awards bestowed on his wines over the years.<br />
CAVES CAMPELO, ADAPTING TO<br />
CHANGE<br />
HÉLDER LIMA AND HIS BROTHER ÓSCAR WHO RUN<br />
CAVES CAMPELO<br />
In order to make headway outside of national<br />
borders, Portuguese winegrowers have had to redouble<br />
their efforts at every level, from producing<br />
the wines to sales and marketing. Sofia Costa, export<br />
manager with Caves Campelo, stresses that<br />
over the past few years they have invested significantly<br />
in order to make a name for themselves<br />
in foreign markets, mainly by ramping up their<br />
attendance at the major international wine fairs.<br />
This has enabled them not only to secure greater<br />
visibility, but also to gain a “broader vision of international<br />
trade and the drinking habits specific<br />
to each market. Consequently, we have tailored our<br />
wines to a more cosmopolitan style. We have also<br />
adapted not only the image of our wines, but also<br />
our range of products”.<br />
The Barcelos-based company, located in the Vinho<br />
Verde region, now exports between 75 and 80% of<br />
its wines which grace tables across Europe, but also<br />
in China, the United States and Canada. Although<br />
domestic consumption is holding up, claims Costa,<br />
the company has set its sights on exports which<br />
continue to gain traction. It markets its famous<br />
fresh, very lightly sparkling wines – on which the<br />
region’s reputation is based – along with wines<br />
from Alentejo in South-East Portugal, the Douro<br />
Valley, Dão, Tejo and Lisbon.<br />
The specific features of every region are invariably<br />
showcased because losing regional identity is not<br />
an option, claims Costa. Adapting to change also<br />
implies the ability to protect one’s heritage. The<br />
winery therefore only works with native grape<br />
varieties like Alvarinho which delivers floral and<br />
citrus aromas and lends the wine beAutiful minerality.<br />
Another example is Loureiro, which instils<br />
refreshing acidity in the wine. The choice of varie-<br />
40 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ONE OF BACALHÔA’S WINEMAKERS, FRANCISCO ANTUNES, WAS RECENTLY<br />
VOTED ‘2023 BEST WINEMAKER’ BY GRANDES ESCOLHAS MAGAZINE<br />
BACALHÔA HAS FOUR HEAD WINEMAKERS, INCLUDING FILIPA TOMAZ<br />
DA COSTA<br />
tals is both an advantage and a challenge, admits Costa, because “although it is a differentiating<br />
factor, it requires extra effort to raise awareness of Portuguese wines”.<br />
BACALHÔA, AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF INNOVATION<br />
Another aspect that factors into the current popularity of Portugal’s wine industry is undoubtedly<br />
the financial side. Fábio Vieira, the export manager at Bacalhôa, agrees: “The outstanding<br />
value for money of Portuguese wines has helped boost exports”. Portugal now sells remarkable<br />
wines at very competitive price points, which knock the spots off those of neighbouring countries.<br />
That doesn’t mean it compromises on quality. This is especially true of Bacalhôa which has<br />
always realised that to establish a pedigree in export markets, you have to rank alongside internationally<br />
renowned wines. For many years it has focused on technological innovation and<br />
a robust team of professionals with proven skills to further its commitment to excellence. To<br />
expedite its presence in international markets, though, it has not changed the style of its wines,<br />
points out Vieira, because the company “was already marketing one range of wines in a modern<br />
style and another more classically styled portfolio”, thereby spanning the spectrum of demand.<br />
The company has a foothold in several famous Portuguese wine regions, producing wines in<br />
Alentejo, Setúbal Peninsula, Bairrada, Beiras, Dão and the Douro. Although Port and Madeira<br />
continue to be the most highly represented on the international stage, “wines made from native<br />
grape varieties are now increasingly in demand”, stresses Vieira. That’s a blessing for Bacalhôa<br />
which grows primarily indigenous grapes, although it does have some Cabernet-Sauvignon,<br />
Merlot, Chardonnay and Syrah plantings. Recently, it has introduced the Italian variety Greco<br />
and planted significant amounts of Pinot noir to produce world-class sparkling wines. The<br />
same quality focus has also led it to develop an interest in the native Baga grape variety which<br />
is due to be used for the first time during this year’s harvest. Another new release this year is a<br />
wine made entirely from vineyards planted in 1931 that has now been bottled and is ready to be<br />
launched, underscoring the company’s relentless quest for perfection.<br />
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41
REVOLUTION TO EVOLUTION: CHARTING<br />
THE FUTURE OF SWARTLAND WINES<br />
BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU<br />
DIPWSET<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE WINERIES<br />
From wheat farms to groundbreaking wine farms, traditional farmers to rebels with<br />
an old vine cause, the Swartland grew from being perceived as a relatively obscure<br />
winemaking region to a world phenomenon. To maintain their sustainable evolution<br />
and how they do business, the Swartland further evolved into a globally recognized hub<br />
for exceptional, terroir-driven wines and business models, adding to its success.<br />
THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE THAT IS HOME TO ALLESVERLOREN WINE ESTATE IN RIEBEEK WEST<br />
42 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TERROIR<br />
KASTEELBERG REPRESENTS THE TOP TIER WINES AT RIEBEEK VALLEY AND CO. AND THE SHIRAZ<br />
EMBODIES WHAT THE SWARTLAND IS ALL ABOUT<br />
If South African wines intrigue you, then surely, you’ve been swept up in the buzz<br />
surrounding the Swartland region in South Africa over the past couple of decades. This<br />
wine-producing area has transformed remarkably, and this metamorphosis can largely<br />
be credited to pioneering winemakers like Eben Sadie and the Mullineuxs, whose innovative<br />
approaches ignited the Swartland Revolution Movement. The movement celebrated<br />
minimal intervention winemaking and embraced the unique characteristics of old bush<br />
vines, reshaping perceptions of the Swartland and South African wine and prompting<br />
innovative marketing avenues.<br />
Today, the region has its own wine & olive route woven with heartwarming stories told<br />
through wine labels while more individual personalities are drawn to its arid yet hauntingly<br />
beautiful terrain.<br />
The combination of terroir, attention and subsequent intention has propelled Swartland<br />
wines to critical acclaim, sparking numerous business concepts that ignited consumer<br />
interest. This success is rooted in a commitment to honouring traditional methods and<br />
embracing innovative winemaking techniques, resulting in diverse wines showcasing the<br />
region’s history and dynamic future.<br />
RIEBEEK VALLEY WINE CO’S TRANSFORMATIVE JOURNEY<br />
Founded in 1941, Riebeek Valley Wine Co. exemplifies the dynamic evolution of the Swartland<br />
wine region. Beyond making their own wine ranges, they’ve emerged as a leading<br />
boutique wine services company, offering a comprehensive suite of products and services<br />
to the South African and global wine industry.<br />
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43
MEET THE WHOLE TEAM AT RIEBEEK VALLEY AND CO<br />
THE DYNAMIC ENVIRONMENT AT RIEBEEK VALLEY & CO IS WHAT<br />
CREATES FUTURE GENERATIONS AND CONSISTENT QUALITY<br />
Leading the charge within Riebeek Valley Wine Co’s premium cellar is the fearless Sheree<br />
Nothnagel, whose tenure reflects the company’s remarkable journey from its cooperative<br />
roots to its status as a dynamic entity. Reflecting on this transformation, Sheree remarks<br />
on the profound changes in winemaking styles and the transition from a cooperative to a<br />
family-owned company in 2018.<br />
“Family remains integral to their ethos,” she affirms, “with 22 families spanning multiple<br />
generations still owning the company.”<br />
For Sheree and the team, modernity isn’t merely about state-of-the-art equipment but<br />
encompasses a forward-thinking approach to winemaking. This ethos culminated in establishing<br />
the boutique cellar, filling a market void, and positioning the company as a one-stop<br />
destination for premium wines and services.<br />
“While the boutique cellar focuses on premium wines and services, the bigger cellar focuses<br />
on larger projects. We also have a logistics department where we can store wine, label, wax,<br />
assist with exports, etc. We can provide clients with grapes or bulk wine that they can bottle<br />
under their own labels.”<br />
The RAAR Shiraz Carbonic Maceration 2023 (90) with its burst of violets, red berry fruit,<br />
perfumed nuances and grippy, lengthy finish and the RAAR skin contact Chenin Blanc 2023<br />
(93) with its alluring yellow fruit and pithy, rich aftertaste, intrigued the Gilbert & Gaillard<br />
tasting panel. In its youth, the Kasteelberg Syrah 2023 (91) left a profound impression with<br />
its spicy character and immense longevity.<br />
Sheree’s passion for winemaking extends beyond crafting exceptional wines; she sees herself<br />
as a mentor, sharing her expertise with aspiring winemakers during harvests and beyond.<br />
Her dedication to nurturing talent underscores the wine community’s collaborative spirit.<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TERROIR<br />
“In harvest time, we line up samples and encourage<br />
assistants and interns to learn and ask questions,”<br />
she shares proudly, “so I am a winemaker<br />
and a teacher and will never stand back for doing<br />
the hard graft either. It comes with the territory!”<br />
WILLIE DREYER, LEEUWENKUIL FAMILY VINEYARDS’ OWNER, AND WILLIE DREYER JNR<br />
LEEUWENKUIL, A SAGA OF<br />
TRADITION AND<br />
AUDACIOUS INNOVATION<br />
At Leeuwenkuil, a spirit of innovation and<br />
commitment to tradition converge to drive the<br />
vineyard towards trailblazing projects.<br />
Yes, lions did roam freely back in the 1700s when<br />
Leeuwenkuil (Lion’s Lair) before its subdivision<br />
was still known as Schinderkuijl (a German name<br />
referring to the tradition of gathering materials<br />
from demolished buildings or shipwrecks to<br />
create something new), which was what they did<br />
on the farm. In 1851, the Dreyer family became<br />
the new owners, with Willie and Emma Dreyer at<br />
the helm of Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards today<br />
comprising more than 1,250 hectares.<br />
The Leeuwenkuil Reserve Chenin Blanc 2022<br />
(92) has an alluring intensity of stone fruit and<br />
pineapple with a creamy full palate adding to the<br />
richness. The Reserve Red (92), a blend of Shiraz,<br />
Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvèdre, also delivered<br />
with a balance of smokiness and tart fruit<br />
forwardness.<br />
Kara van Zyl, the marketing manager, has a firm<br />
understanding of the Swartland offering. She<br />
reflects on their journey:<br />
“Their success is 15 years in the making, and everything<br />
is starting to come together. The best word<br />
I can use for their actions is audacious - a family<br />
that is resilient and forward-thinking.”<br />
She adds that these bold initiatives are embodied<br />
by their “gregarious” winemaker, Pieter Carstens,<br />
who embraces this dynamic era wholeheartedly.<br />
Situated in the southernmost part of the Swartland,<br />
the vineyard’s shale soils imbue their wines<br />
with a distinct saline character, particularly<br />
evident in their Chenin and Shiraz.<br />
“While Shiraz and Chenin remain at the centre,<br />
LEEUWENKUIL’S JOURNEY BEGAN SEVEN GENERATIONS AGO, AND TODAY,<br />
WITH ALL THEIR CHILDREN INVOLVED TO SOME EXTENT, THE VISION<br />
OF ITS OWNERS CONTINUES TO EXPAND<br />
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45
LIZELLE GERBER, CELLARMASTER AT ORG DE RAC<br />
JOHAN GERBER, MANAGING DIRECTOR AT ORG DE RAC<br />
ALEC VINCENT, VITICULTURIST AT ORG DE RAC<br />
Leeuwenkuil’s repertoire includes Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and bush vine Pinotage.”<br />
According to Kara, the Leeuwenkuil Reserve Range consistently excels, the white earning<br />
five stars in the Diner’s Club Platter’s Wine Guide 2024.<br />
Reflecting on the Swartland Revolution, Kara notes a shift towards a cohesive Swartland<br />
where innovation and passion to stay true to the character of the Swartland region,<br />
propels the whole region forward.<br />
“Today, there is cross-pollination, and it helps consumers understand the Swartland<br />
better. We are now in the best and strongest position ever,” she remarks.<br />
Tailor-made equipment, including AI technology, ensures precision and consistent<br />
quality throughout winemaking. So, in weaving together tradition and innovation,<br />
Leeuwenkuil continues to push boundaries and tell their story of bravery and excellence.<br />
ORG DE RAC: PIONEERING ORGANIC EXCELLENCE<br />
While Org de Rac may boast a shorter history than some, having been established in<br />
2000, owner Nico Bacon, hailing from the fish industry, was a true pioneer of organic<br />
farming, explains Johan Gerber, one of the directors for Org de Rac.<br />
“He was an absolute visionary to start farming organically, and this was the best site to<br />
do so, surrounded by wheatlands.”<br />
Situated on the northern border of the Swartland, Org de Rac capitalizes on its unique<br />
location, benefiting from cooler south-facing slopes and oceanic influences from the<br />
nearby coast, 45 kilometres away. This favourable environment allows for organic farming<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TERROIR<br />
with minimal disease pressure, resulting in healthy<br />
vineyards and exceptional grape quality.<br />
“We pride ourselves on consistent quality, maintaining<br />
organic and Fairtrade accreditation. Our ethos<br />
is to care for the environment as much as we care for<br />
our people, doing so sustainably,” adds Johan.<br />
Reflecting on their journey, the team at Org de Rac<br />
acknowledges the importance of learning from past<br />
experiences.<br />
“We learned how to do things and not to do things,”<br />
and this iterative approach has led to innovative<br />
wines consistent with market curiosity. Their<br />
commitment to organic farming is evident in<br />
ongoing projects like their earthworm farm and<br />
improved composting practices to overcome<br />
challenges while preserving character and quality.<br />
“Organic farming will always come with challenges,<br />
but we continue to learn and adapt, prioritising<br />
sustainability without compromising on quality,”<br />
concludes Johan.<br />
THOR VINTNERS FOCUS ON SMALL-BATCH ARTISANAL WINES<br />
INSPIRED BY ULTRA-PREMIUM RHÔNE BLENDS, ONLY BRINGING<br />
THEM HOME TO THIS UNIQUE CORNER OF THE WORLD<br />
EMILE GENTIS:<br />
THE WINEMAKER-JEWELLER<br />
OF SWARTLAND BLENDS<br />
Emile Gentis, driven by a firm belief in the power<br />
of tenacity, founded Thor Vintners with a focus on<br />
crafting small-batch artisanal wines through the art<br />
of blending.<br />
The Gentis Badlands Shiraz 2022 (93) and the Gentis<br />
The Phoenix Petite Sirah (92) excelled in Gilbert &<br />
Gaillard’s tasting of Swartland wines, following the<br />
brand’s inclusion in the Swartland wine route since<br />
January 2024.<br />
“My expertise lies in blending, a skill honed over<br />
years of sourcing and combining components<br />
from across the winelands to create unique blends<br />
tailored to buyers and overseas markets. Blending is<br />
an art form, a means to strike the perfect balance,<br />
even with vintages that require a creative touch.”<br />
Under the Gentis family name, all wines are crafted<br />
from Swartland grapes. The Phoenix, sourced<br />
from bush vines near Malmesbury, offers a bold<br />
and complex flavour profile, while the rebellious<br />
Badlands challenges convention.<br />
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THOR VINTNERS, THE PHOENIX, BADLANDS & WIND<br />
SONG BRANDS CELEBRATE WINE OF ORIGIN SWARTLAND<br />
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47
KIKI HUGHES IS DOING HER MASTER’S IN WILDLIFE FORENSIC<br />
GENETICS WHILE MANAGING THE SALES AND MARKETING OF NATIVO<br />
AFTER LEARNING FROM LOCAL WINEMAKERS, BILLY AND KIKI ARE<br />
NOW SPEARHEADING THE WINEMAKING AT NATIVO WINES<br />
While Emile acknowledges the importance of terroir, his focus remains on customer satisfaction,<br />
leveraging the Swartland’s diverse and high-quality grapes to craft exceptional blends.<br />
“Just call me the jeweller,” he laughs, “as the Swartland offers a treasure trove of possibilities, where<br />
every grape variety is a gem waiting to be discovered and polished into a crown-worthy blend.”<br />
NATIVO WINES: LOYAL TO PLACE, NOT STYLE<br />
There’s a solidity like no other when a father and daughter share a mutual interest, and Argentinian-born<br />
Billy Hughes and his daughter Kiki embody this bond. They embarked on their<br />
farming journey in 2000, unaware of the groundswell of energy rallying to save old vines from<br />
imminent destruction.<br />
“We were among the pioneers to obtain formal organic certification, striving to elevate it to the<br />
highest standards,” recalls Billy. “We soon realised that the winemakers here were incredibly<br />
passionate, well-travelled, and unafraid to innovate.”<br />
To Kiki, the Swartland hasn’t changed much; instead, consumer perception has evolved.<br />
“South Africa was once conservative, but the Swartland broke the mould.”<br />
Billy beams as he discusses their wines submitted for tasting. “We took Tempranillo harvested<br />
on the same day but made one from destemmed fruit and another using 50% whole bunch —<br />
curious to see the outcomes. Both received gold medals.”<br />
According to Kiki, the main distinctions lie in the tannin structure of each wine and how they<br />
are perceived on the palate. “Oak only plays a subtle role; we want the fruit to take centre stage.”<br />
After learning from seasoned winemakers, last year marked the first time father and daughter<br />
worked alone in the cellar. “We’re eager to showcase the malleable character of Tempranillo,”<br />
says Billy. “It’s drought-resistant and can yield a big, tannic wine or a fruitier, elegant one. Ultimately,<br />
vintage variation will always be a factor in this Mediterranean climate, where grapes<br />
thrive with minimal water.<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TERROIR<br />
And then we stumbled upon a happy accident that<br />
became our first orange wine,” laughs Kiki, “which<br />
has now become one of our signature offerings.”<br />
For them, loyalty lies more with the land than<br />
any specific variety or winemaking style. “The<br />
consistent message is one of honesty—a small<br />
family business committed to crafting unique<br />
Swartland wines.”<br />
DU TOIT FAMILY VINEYARDS ARE HOME TO 25 HECTARES OF INDIGENOUS<br />
RENOSTERVELD. THE NAME FOR THE WINES, KNOLFONTEIN, IS DERIVED FROM THE<br />
AFRIKAANS WORD KNOL, MEANING PLANT BULB, A PHENOMENON CREATING A<br />
SEASONAL SPECTACLE AS THE SHOOTS EMERGE<br />
KNOLFONTEIN: CULTIVATING<br />
TRADITION, NURTURING TERROIR<br />
The Du Toit Family Vineyards is a 480-ha farm<br />
at the foothills of the Kasteelberg in Riebeek<br />
West. Knolfontein is the name adopted for their<br />
boutique range of wines they believe reflect generations<br />
in the making.<br />
Pieter, aka Knol du Toit, is a fourth-generation<br />
wine grower whose family has always farmed<br />
grapes in the Swartland, and after studying viticulture<br />
and oenology, returned to the farm with<br />
his father, Danie.<br />
“There were vineyards on the farm when my<br />
great-grandfather bought the land in 1907. Yet,<br />
after selling our grapes for so long, in 2020, it was<br />
time for our own label and identity,” shares Pieter.<br />
“I am just a farmer who loves his land” he adds,<br />
and five generations in the making, they still<br />
follow their heart and not consumer trends.<br />
In the late 1990s, South Africa claimed three gold<br />
medals at the Chardonnay du Monde competition;<br />
one of them went to a wine made from Knolfontein<br />
fruit. And in 1998, Pieter’s father won the<br />
prize for the region’s best vineyard block. A decade<br />
later, he did the same.<br />
The Kolfontein Chenin Blanc 2021 (91) and<br />
the Knolfontein Cinsaut 2021 (90) shined in<br />
the tasting.<br />
“We embrace a philosophy that goes beyond<br />
farming - nurturing the soil and the vines, ensuring<br />
they thrive in harmony with nature. We limit<br />
tractor traffic to preserve the soil’s integrity of<br />
plant cover crops to shield it from erosion. It’s a<br />
labour of love, driven by a deep-seated passion<br />
for our terroir and a commitment to preserving<br />
THEY WORK WITH THE RHYTHM OF THE LAND, SAYS PIETER DU TOIT,<br />
FOURTH-GENERATION WINE GROWER AT DU TOIT FAMILY VINEYARDS<br />
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49
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TERROIR<br />
it for generations to come. Our journey has been<br />
one of learning, asking for help when needed, and<br />
staying true to ourselves amidst the challenges.”<br />
ALLESVERLOREN: A LEGACY OF<br />
RESILIENCE AND INNOVATION<br />
DANIE MALAN, 5TH GENERATION WINEMAKER (RIGHT) AT ALLESVERLOREN WITH WILHELM<br />
DE VRIES (LEFT), WHO JOINED THE OLDEST CELLAR IN THE SWARTLAND IN 2016<br />
DANIE MALAN’S DAUGHTER, DANIELLE, TAKES CHARGE OF MARKETING AT<br />
ALLESVERLOREN<br />
The name originates from a devastating moment<br />
in 1704 when the family returned from an arduous<br />
wagon journey to discover their house and farm<br />
burned to the ground. “All is lost,” they believed.<br />
Hence, the name “Allesverloren” remained, serving<br />
as a poignant reminder and a source of inspiration.<br />
Over 150 years ago, the Malan family bought<br />
the farm.<br />
“The legacy runs deep,” says Danielle Malan,<br />
daughter of owner Danie. “The first Malan<br />
purchased Allesverloren in 1872 when it was<br />
primarily a wheat farm. Although our cellar is a<br />
heritage site, we continue to innovate, finding<br />
ways to expand while remaining true to our roots.”<br />
The family has been pivotal in shaping the Swartland<br />
wine region. While wine was already<br />
produced here for personal use in the 1800s, the<br />
brand was established in 1972 and the Malans were<br />
the first to import and plant the first Portuguese<br />
varietals. Wet winters and warm, dry summers<br />
facilitate ripening for these robust varieties, with<br />
prevailing westerly winds and mountain shadows<br />
providing relief and subsequent elegance in the<br />
wines.<br />
“My grandfather, the 3 rd generation Malan, played<br />
a significant role in this transformation,” adds<br />
Danielle. “He developed a profound love and<br />
respect for Port during visits to Portugal, and<br />
under his guidance, our brand expanded to include<br />
Portuguese varieties, a breakthrough moment for<br />
the Swartland.”<br />
Their efforts to showcase high-quality wines made<br />
from French and Portuguese cultivars underscored<br />
the region’s significance.<br />
“We’ve been fortunate always to have a family<br />
member ready to carry forward the legacy,” says<br />
Danielle, highlighting the importance of continuity<br />
and renewal.<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
TERROIR<br />
THE MALAN FAMILY OF ALLESVERLOREN PIONEERED PORTUGUESE VARIETIES IN SOUTH<br />
AFRICA, IN A REGION CONDUCIVE TO CULTIVATING THESE ROBUST CULTIVARS<br />
Today, whether it’s co-ops, family farms, or independent winemakers, they support<br />
each other’s events to promote the region collectively.<br />
Danielle tells how her father adapted to changing palates by adjusting ageing<br />
techniques. So, although the Swartland remains sought after for Chenin Blanc<br />
and Shiraz, their Allesverloren Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 stole the show with<br />
93 points, affirming that collective initiatives and pioneering business models<br />
have re-founded the Swartland as a nucleus of possibilities.<br />
A sense of camaraderie among wine businesses that includes larger cellars, family<br />
farms and the Swartland Independent Producers pivoted the region to transition<br />
from its revolutionary fervour to a period of evolution and refinement. So, while<br />
the core principles of terroir-driven winemaking and collaboration remain pivotal,<br />
the growing emphasis on sustainability, innovation, and the relentless pursuit of<br />
quality remains unequivocal. This adaptability will ensure the Swartland’s continuation<br />
of garnering international acclaim, making the region’s future appear as<br />
promising as its storied past.<br />
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THE WAY TO A GERMAN WINE<br />
DRINKER’S HEART<br />
BY MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE WINERIES<br />
Germany is considered to be a notoriously difficult market in the consumer arena. In<br />
the 1990s, supermarket chains Migros (Switzerland), Delhaize (Belgium/USA) and<br />
Intermarché (France) successively attempted to enter the German market. Without<br />
success. Discount prices by rival companies and brand loyalty among German consumers<br />
proved to be insurmountable obstacles. But what about the Germans’ taste in wine?<br />
Perhaps there is an opening for exporters, especially as domestic production, at 9 million<br />
hectolitres, only accounts for just under half of what Germans drink each year. So which<br />
wines do Germans prefer? Gilbert & Gaillard asked the experts in Germany.<br />
HAND HARVESTING SAPERAVI GRAPES FOR TAOBA<br />
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GERMANY<br />
IMPORTERS<br />
THE MOSELLE VALLEY NEAR THE EINIG-ZENZEN WINERY<br />
Before getting into big numbers and German preferences, one thing should be said<br />
and it’s a point on which all the experts concurred: the wine market in Germany<br />
is highly segmented. In other words, there is almost nothing that does not exist. In a<br />
country with a population of 82 million, the economic power to match and a tradition<br />
of wine production and imports dating back to Roman times, this is hardly surprising.<br />
Merchants from the major ports of Hamburg and Bremen have been importing<br />
wine from the Bordelais for centuries - in bottles and even more so in bulk. Today,<br />
Berlin is viewed as an experimental space where even rare natural wines from the far<br />
corners of the earth can be bought. However, the fact that such segments exist does<br />
not contradict the overarching statements. So, back to the basic metrics.<br />
COUNTRY DISTRIBUTION<br />
In its analyses, the Federal Statistical Office regularly publishes data about countries<br />
from which most wine is exported to Germany. In 2022, Germans imported<br />
13.395 million hectolitres of wine (the latest official figures), which equates to just<br />
under 16 litres per capita. The most popular country of origin was clearly Italy with<br />
36.3% of import volumes, followed by Spain with 27.5% and France with 13.3%. South<br />
Africa, the first country outside Europe (4.8%), follows in fourth place, ahead of the<br />
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53
GERMANY<br />
IMPORTERS<br />
HARVESTING TAOBA IN GEORGIA - THE WINE BY THIERRY<br />
FONTANNAZ HAS BECOME AN INSTANT SUCCESS<br />
USA and Australia with 3.0% volume shares each.<br />
When it comes to value shares, the figures shift<br />
slightly: Italy stays in first place with 37.7%, but this<br />
time ahead of France (30.4%) and Spain (12.9%).<br />
Among the top ten importing countries, Germans<br />
are prepared to pay the highest price for wines from<br />
France, followed by New Zealand. The cheapest<br />
wines, on the other hand, come from North Macedonia,<br />
Hungary and Spain.<br />
Looking at the types of wine, white wines, with a<br />
45% share, are just ahead of red wines with 44%.<br />
However, rosé wines are simply subsumed into the<br />
red wine category and not shown separately. When<br />
it comes to value, the proportions are reversed:<br />
red wines clearly take first place with 48%, ahead<br />
of white wines with 27%. Readers so inclined may<br />
notice there is still a considerable gap. In fact, this<br />
is primarily occupied by sparkling wines, which<br />
account for only 5% of volumes but 17% of the value<br />
of imported wines. Champagnes (1% of volumes and<br />
9% of values) are mostly responsible for the high<br />
value share, but Prosecco and Cava also contribute<br />
significantly.<br />
TASTE PREFERENCES<br />
THE TAOBA WINERY<br />
So much for the big figures. But to find out what<br />
tastes and specific origins are driving them, in other<br />
words which wines the Germans really like, one has<br />
to dive deeper. The best way to do this is to talk to<br />
people who produce foreign wines specifically for<br />
the German market.<br />
Thierry Fontannaz is one such expert (see Papaloves<br />
Wine below). “When I look at the bestsellers<br />
in the red wine category,” he says, “it’s evident that<br />
Germans tend to like round, dense wines that can<br />
be a little higher in alcohol.” Fontannaz points out<br />
that round means less noticeable tannins, often<br />
cushioned with a little residual sugar - as with<br />
Primitivo from Apulia. But is it true that Germans<br />
are so incredibly price-sensitive? “Yes and no,” says<br />
Fontannaz, “definitely in the entry-level segment.<br />
But when it comes to a strong brand or an origin that<br />
is considered to be of high quality, the price becomes<br />
less important.”<br />
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TOBIAS DEUSSEN, THE MARKETING DIRECTOR AND PROJECT DEVELOPER<br />
AT ENOVATIVE<br />
KONSTANTIN PECHTL, THE WINEMAKER AND PROJECT DEVELOPER<br />
AT ENOVATIVE<br />
Tobias Deussen and Konstantin Pechtl of Enovative confirm this statement. “Accessible<br />
wines and easy-to-pronounce names create a feeling of being on summer vacation<br />
or at the Italian restaurant around the corner,” says Deussen, also referring to<br />
the fact that, according to estimates by gastronomy associations, there are around<br />
20,000 Italian restaurants in Germany. This level of penetration makes it easier to<br />
think food and wine at the same time. The combination of vacation enjoyment and<br />
success in Germany is also mirrored in the two bestsellers in the white and sparkling<br />
wine sector, Lugana from Lake Garda and Prosecco.<br />
A FEAST FOR THE PALATE, AND THE EYES<br />
Deussen’s colleague Konstantin Pechtl sheds light on Spain, the second most important<br />
country of origin. “When significant cost increases occurred, Spanish bodegas in<br />
particular were able to keep price increases at a comparatively low level. The consumer<br />
has obviously rewarded this. In addition to the high product quality, we have also<br />
noticed time and again that an attractive design is an important buying cue - the eye<br />
eats too,” stresses Pechtl.<br />
A third popular origin is South Africa. Philipp Zenzen, whose company (see box<br />
Einig-Zenzen) has many South African wines in its portfolio, knows the reasons for<br />
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55
GERMANY<br />
IMPORTERS<br />
POURING RED WINE FROM THE TANK AT EINIG-ZENZEN<br />
this. “This is a relatively new development, which is<br />
mainly due to tourism [once again]. South Africa has<br />
become very fashionable as a new travel destination,”<br />
explains Zenzen. “There’s no time difference, there<br />
are opposite seasons, still relatively cheap prices<br />
locally, and the country is very attractive both scenically<br />
and culturally.” So it makes sense to extend this<br />
vacation feeling at home - with a bottle of Chenin,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier from South Africa.<br />
So what does the future hold for imported wines<br />
in Germany? Thierry Fontannaz notes that the soft<br />
and slightly sweet red wines are doing particularly<br />
well with young customers. “The older generation,<br />
which socialized in the 1980s and 1990s with dry<br />
wines from France and Tuscany as food companions<br />
is having a much harder time with the new<br />
bestsellers.” This could be supported by the fact that<br />
the younger generation grew up with sugary drinks<br />
such as cola or Red Bull, and with added sugar in<br />
food. Fruity wines make the transition easier. “Incidentally,”<br />
adds Fontannaz, “I don’t believe that this<br />
generation will suddenly change its tastes in the<br />
course of its wine journey. That wasn’t the case with<br />
the older generation of dry wine drinkers either.”<br />
Additionally, Fontannaz observes the fruit-driven<br />
trend for wine practically worldwide, and Germany<br />
is no exception. “I sell soft red wines very well in<br />
Scandinavia and even in France or Portugal, countries<br />
that actually produce a completely different<br />
type of wine.” Is a global harmonisation of taste in<br />
motion? It’s quite possible.<br />
EINIG-ZENZEN OWNERS PETER-JOSEF AND REGINA ZENZEN<br />
PERSONAL CHOICES<br />
Finally, there is the question of which wines the<br />
producers prefer themselves. Gerhard Brauer,<br />
chairman of the Ruppertsberg winegrowers, likes<br />
red Côtes du Rhône. “The blend of Grenache and<br />
Syrah is unique. It produces a juicy, fruity palate, but<br />
also a compact structure with plenty of complexity<br />
and depth. It’s perfect for cold winter days,” claims<br />
the winemaker. Aleksandra Frank, Technical<br />
Director at the Studier winery, a member of the<br />
younger generation, takes the same classic approach<br />
to wine. “I admire a large number of wines from<br />
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THE RUPPERTSBERG MANAGEMENT TEAM AT WORK<br />
GERHARD BRAUER, DIRECTOR OF THE RUPPERTSBERG COOPERATIVE<br />
abroad, from elegant Barolo to subtle Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Burgundy.” Her<br />
current favourites, however, are two sparkling wines: “The Brut Nature 3210 by Champagne<br />
Maison Phillipe Gonet impresses with its finesse, freshness and incredible length. Also,<br />
I find the Kit’s Coty from Chapel Down in Kent in the UK equally fascinating. It is playful<br />
and light without losing any of its complexity.”<br />
Ultimately, the initial premise is confirmed once again and that is that diversity in terms of<br />
origins and styles are key to appreciation. This applies partly to the mainstream consumer<br />
segments, but above all to Germans with an affinity for wine.<br />
WINE COMPANIES<br />
EINIG-ZENZEN<br />
Einig-Zenzen is the ‘jack-of-all-trades’ par excellence. Situated in the steep Moselle valley<br />
near Cochem, the Zenzen family can look back on a continuous wine-growing tradition<br />
since 1636. Philipp Zenzen is the 14 th generation at the helm. Over the years, the company has<br />
built up various pillars. Eighty years ago, the decision was made not to operate primarily as<br />
a winegrower, but also as a négociant-eleveur. In the wine industry, it helps to think innovatively<br />
and always be a small step ahead of the curve. The Zenzens were already importing<br />
wine from Australia in 1971, and Chile was added as a country of origin in 1980. Today, the<br />
company is represented on every continent - except Antarctica, of course, so there is still<br />
one challenge left…<br />
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THE STUDIER WINERY TEAM<br />
ENJOYING THEMSELVES<br />
ALEKSANDRA FRANK,<br />
TECHNICAL DIRECTOR OF<br />
THE STUDIER WINERY IN<br />
THE PALATINATE REGION<br />
RUPPERTSBERG<br />
Ruppertsberg is the name of a well-known wine village in the Palatinate. Excavations<br />
show that the Romans were already growing vines in this climatically favourable location.<br />
However, the history of the local cooperative, which was founded in 1911, does<br />
not go back quite as far. Today, 86 member winegrowers, led by director Gerhard<br />
Brauer, grow a total of 400 hectares of vines around the village. Riesling is the most<br />
important grape variety in Ruppertsberg, as it is throughout the Palatinate. However,<br />
the Linsenbusch vineyard to the south of the village, with its deeper soils, offers an<br />
ideal home for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris in particular.<br />
STUDIER<br />
Ellerstadt, located in the fertile plain before the heights of the Palatinate Forest, is a<br />
wine village with several well-known wineries. One of these is the Studier winery, run<br />
by Reinhard Studier. What was once a small family winery now boasts 50 hectares<br />
of vineyards, all of which are certified organic – it’s a real success story. Technical<br />
manager Aleksandra Frank is one of the - unfortunately still underrepresented –<br />
top profile women who puts her stamp on the wines. The entire portfolio of Palatinate<br />
grape varieties is grown, from Riesling and Pinot Blanc to international grape<br />
varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, even<br />
Cabernet now ripens in the Palatinate without any problems.<br />
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THE TAOBA VINEYARD<br />
IN GEORGIA<br />
KONSTANTIN PECHTL (LEFT)<br />
AND TOBIAS DEUSSEN (RIGHT)<br />
AT ENOVATIVE HANDLE PRODUCT<br />
CONCEPT FROM A TO Z<br />
PAPALOVES WINE<br />
Thierry Fontannaz is the mastermind behind the Papaloves Wine project. The winemaker<br />
has been working in the industry for 30 years, initially for various wineries<br />
around the world, then for many years as a central buyer of French wines for one of<br />
Germany’s largest wine merchants. A good two years ago, he finally decided to set up<br />
his own business, leveraging his global wine knowledge. Papaloves Wine is the name<br />
of the project that Fontannaz has set up with Georgian winemaker Nugzar Ksovreli.<br />
Under the names Bedoba and Taoba (the same wine, just with a different name depending<br />
on the market), a red wine from the indigenous Saperavi grape variety has since<br />
been produced in Georgia and sold around the world.<br />
ENOVATIVE<br />
Enovative is the name of the German company founded in 2021 that is behind the<br />
Spanish red wine Torrehermosa. The two wine business insiders Tobias Deussen<br />
and Konstantin Pechtl provide both the design and materialization of entire wine<br />
programmes, mainly for supermarket chains - from A to Z. Tobias Deussen has<br />
been at home in the wine industry for 20 years, with a particular focus on marketing<br />
brands and private labels. Konstantin Pechtl, who has been a part of the wine scene<br />
for 15 years, adds his expertise as a winemaker and product developer. Both of them<br />
have in-depth knowledge of what the Germans like.<br />
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JUAN PABLO CANTOS,<br />
THE INSPIRED WINEMAKER<br />
AT BODEGAS PIQUERAS<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE COMPANY<br />
Unlike other Spanish wine regions, DO Almansa has not yet garnered the reputation it<br />
deserves. And yet, this tiny area of south-eastern Spain not only boasts ideal conditions<br />
for growing vines, but also traits that make it unique. Bodegas Piqueras, one of the<br />
region’s long-standing wineries, has tasked winemaker Juan Pablo Cantos Serrano<br />
with sharing with the world the true treasure trove it has in its possession. And that’s<br />
what he has done. Painstakingly, resourcefully and with considerable craftsmanship,<br />
he is writing the finest chapter in the appellation’s story.<br />
JUAN PABLO CANTOS SERRANO, THE WINEMAKER AT BODEGAS PIQUERAS, WHO HAS MADE A COMMITMENT TO CARVING OUT AN IDENTITY FOR ALMANSA<br />
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SPAIN<br />
FOCUS<br />
THE STAFF AT THE BODEGA, WHICH WAS FOUNDED IN 1915 BY THE PIQUERAS FAMILY<br />
I<br />
“ ’m not in any hurry”, admits Juan Pablo Cantos Serrano during our conversation.<br />
Just like his wines maturing in the cellar, as a winemaker, he needs time. Building<br />
up an identity does not happen overnight, nor even in the space of a few years. Since<br />
his arrival at the bodega in 2017, he has been exploring, doing trials and trying various<br />
combinations to craft wines that are a mirror to their terroir. It’s a pretty tall order, but<br />
the challenge holds promise. Here, “it’s a blank canvas”, explains Cantos. It’s not like<br />
in Ribera del Duero, where quality wineries are in plentiful supply and everything (or<br />
almost) has already been tried. In Almansa, no bright new star in the wine firmament<br />
had yet been allowed to shine.<br />
The situation is starting to change, though. Several of Bodegas Piqueras’ signature<br />
wines have been awarded excellent scores by the finest critics in the world. And not<br />
just because they are technically irreproachable, but because, as perfect renditions<br />
of the soil that birthed them, they are unique. Gradually, thanks to the efforts of the<br />
winemaker, who is on a mission to demonstrate the outstanding qualities of his<br />
home region of Almansa, the appellation has finally established its pedigree and<br />
more importantly, its own specific identity. Before returning to his native village,<br />
Cantos worked in many other wine regions, including Ribera del Duero, Murcia and<br />
New Zealand. This experience made him realise that the quality potential of Almansa<br />
had yet to be leveraged, despite the fact that it is home to felicitous conditions for<br />
farming vines and producing premium wines. The discrepancy between the potential<br />
and its materialisation can be traced back to the fact that although vines have long<br />
been grown here, the wines were for many years sold in bulk.<br />
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BODEGAS PIQUERAS IS NOW<br />
RUN BY JUAN PABLO AND ÁNGEL<br />
BONETE PIQUERAS<br />
As a wine region, though, located between 800 and 1,100 metres above sea level<br />
inland from the Mediterranean coastline, Almansa boasts many positive points.<br />
Its soils are poor, diurnal shift is significant – temperatures can range from 10°C<br />
by night to 35°C by day – the wind promotes healthy vines and of course, sunshine<br />
is abundant. “Here, everything is organic”, explains Cantos. “The only concern is<br />
drought”. Fortunately, the native grape varieties and in particular Garnacha Tintorera<br />
(Alicante Bouschet) and Monastrell (Mourvèdre), have the ability to adapt particularly<br />
well to the dearth of water. This year, for example, the winery’s production<br />
was barely affected by the serious drought that swept across Spain, unlike other<br />
varieties such as Syrah. “That’s a lesson for the future”, comments Cantos.<br />
As it happens, he has a soft spot for Garnacha Tintorera and Monastrell, particularly<br />
a combination of the two. In fact, he claims that the blend of both varieties is<br />
what lends Almansa’s wines their outstanding persona. No other wine region in the<br />
world grows the two cultivars together, or at such a high elevation. “80% of Spain’s<br />
Garnacha Tintorera is found in Almansa”, stresses Cantos. The secret is to strike a<br />
balance between the two varieties which, in successful blends, dovetail perfectly to<br />
produce powerful, generous wines with vibrant acidity and intense colour. “It’s not<br />
always plain sailing however”, admits the winemaker, because neither variety has<br />
a reputation for being easy to work with, particularly Monastrell with its extensive<br />
growing season. “The varieties are more complex than Tempranillo”, requiring<br />
greater care in handling and most importantly, special effort to let them express<br />
their tremendous qualities.<br />
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SPAIN<br />
FOCUS<br />
Sometimes they need other grape varieties to fully<br />
achieve their potential, which is when the winemaker<br />
taps into the red varietal range permitted<br />
within the appellation area, using grapes like Syrah,<br />
Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon and Tempranillo to<br />
produce his famous blends. They also need carefully<br />
curated oak maturation to enhance their power,<br />
unlike Syrah for example, notes Cantos. In fact, he<br />
has created a single varietal, sulphite-free Syrah<br />
matured in amphorae to make the winemaking<br />
process more natural and gentle. Although he has<br />
a preference for blends, he also crafts single varietal<br />
wines, invariably made from unique blocks of very<br />
old vines. “They can only be made from outstanding<br />
areas”, he points out.<br />
JUAN PABLO CANTOS SERRANO HAS BROUGHT THE WINERY INTO A NEW ERA<br />
Traditionally, Almansa is a red wine region, but<br />
whites are starting to become a talking point. In<br />
fact, Bodegas Piqueras was the first winery to grow<br />
white grapes in the appellation area (Verdejo and<br />
Sauvignon blanc) forty or so years ago. It makes<br />
increasing amounts of white wine, often matured<br />
in oak to produce food-friendly pours with lovely<br />
volume and great freshness on the palate. Again,<br />
Cantos is not one to shy away from innovation,<br />
dreaming up ideas like creating age-worthy white<br />
wines such as his single varietal Verdejo Gen One<br />
matured in oak barrels – a first for the region.<br />
THE VINES ARE FARMED USING ENVIRONMENTALLY-FRIENDLY TECHNIQUES,<br />
WITH NO PESTICIDES OR CHEMICALS<br />
Bodegas Piqueras is a pioneer and since it was<br />
founded over 100 years ago, it has always stood out<br />
for its love of the land. Its history is intrinsically<br />
linked to that of the appellation – in fact, it was<br />
the driving force behind its creation. Fuelled by a<br />
desire to showcase Almansa’s winegrowing heritage,<br />
it has made another leap forward by recruiting<br />
Juan Pablo Cantos. Choosing to go down the<br />
quality route seems to be reaping rewards because<br />
the bodega now exports to over 50 countries, including<br />
Canada and Finland, where it became the first<br />
Spanish winery to export. The company continues<br />
to amass good scores and medals, and Almansa is<br />
(finally) starting to shine. There is justice after all!<br />
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PIEDMONT, A KALEIDOSCOPE OF GRAPE<br />
VARIETIES AND VINEYARD SITES<br />
BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE COMPANY - ©AARÓN_<br />
GÓMEZ_FIGUEROA<br />
Piedmont is a region that has made wine its pride and joy, establishing itself as a<br />
renowned producer of high quality wines thanks to its most prominent appellations.<br />
And yet, not everyone is aware of the full variety of appellations and grape varieties<br />
that are available to Piedmont growers and wineries, akin to the range of colours and<br />
tones that Mediterranean artists have at their fingertips.<br />
LA SCOLCA’S ESTATE WAS PURCHASED IN 1919 BY GIORGIO SOLDATI’S GREAT-GRANDFATHER, CHIARA SOLDATI’S FATHER, THE FOURTH GENERATION WITH<br />
AN EYE FIRMLY ON THE FUTURE<br />
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ITALY<br />
TERROIR<br />
OVER 6 HECTARES OF VINEYARDS, THE CORDARA WINERY GROWS NATIVE VARIETIES AND COMPLIES<br />
WITH SUSTAINABLE AND RESPECTFUL AGRICULTURAL TRADITIONS<br />
P<br />
iedmont is renowned for its quality – more than 80% of the wine produced there has designation<br />
of origin certification. Nineteen wines are classed as DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation<br />
of Origin) while 41 are classed as DOC (Controlled Designation of Origin) out of a national<br />
total of 73 DOCGs and 332 DOCs. The varietal range is extensive and includes grapes like Arneis,<br />
Cortese, Timorasso, Erbaluce, Favorita, Moscato Bianco, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Grignolino,<br />
Brachetto, Ruchè, Pelaverga, Vespolina and rare cultivars. These are joined by international varieties<br />
that in certain areas have found their ideal soils and climate, including Chardonnay, Riesling and<br />
Pinot Noir.<br />
Piedmont produces the following DOCG wines: Alta Langa, Asti, Barbaresco, Barbera d’Asti, Barbera<br />
del Monferrato Superiore, Barolo, Brachetto d’Acqui o Acqui, Canelli, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba o,<br />
Diano d’Alba, Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore o Ovada, Dogliani, Erbaluce di Caluso o Caluso, Gattinara,<br />
Gavi o Cortese di Gavi, Ghemme, Nizza, Roero, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato, and Terre Alfieri.<br />
It also produces these DOC wines: Alba, Albugnano, Barbera d’Alba, Barbera del Monferrato,<br />
Boca, Bramaterra, Calosso, Canavese, Carema, Cisterna, Colli Tortonesi, Collina Torinese, Colline<br />
Novaresi, Colline Saluzzesi, Cortese Alto Monferrato, Coste della Sesia, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto<br />
d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto di Ovada, Fara, Freisa d’Asti, Freisa di Chieri, Gabiano, Grignolino<br />
d’Asti, Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese, Langhe, Lessona, Loazzolo, Malvasia di, Casorzo d’Asti<br />
o Casorzo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Pinerolese, Rubino di<br />
Cantavenna, Sizzano, Strevi, Valli Ossolane, Valsusa, Verduno Pelaverga o Verduno and, of course,<br />
Piemonte DOC.<br />
The region does not produce any wines classed as IGT (Typical Geographical Indication), which is<br />
considered a lower classification, underscoring the high regard in which the region holds its vines<br />
and vineyards. To gain a better understanding of the production dynamics and multifaceted choice<br />
of Piedmont wines, we have selected some of the region’s leading wineries.<br />
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CORDARA’S VINEYARDS BOAST EXCELLENT EXPOSURE, LOW YIELDS<br />
AND LOW ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT TECHNIQUES, ALL OF WHICH ARE<br />
PREREQUISITES FOR PRODUCING HIGH QUALITY GRAPES<br />
THE PRESENT-DAY CORDARA FAMILY HAS AN AGRICULTURAL HISTORY DATING<br />
BACK TO 1860<br />
CORDARA – CRAFTING MONFERRATO<br />
The Cordara winery is located in Castel Boglione in the province of Asti and manages a total<br />
of 5 hectares of vineyards, producing DOC and DOCG wines from indigenous grape varieties.<br />
The company is not organic but follows a traditional philosophy showing maximum respect<br />
for the environment and the production cycle. In the cellar too, the approach is traditional,<br />
with minimal use of winemaking inputs, thus allowing the product’s natural qualities to shine<br />
through without the need for external aids. The designations produced are Cortese dell’alto<br />
Monferrato DOC, Dolcetto d’Asti DOC, Dolcetto d’Asti superiore DOC, Freisa d’Asti DOC,<br />
Barbera d’Asti DOCG, and Barbera d’Asti superiore DOCG.<br />
Piedmont is best known, both in Italy and abroad, for the Barolo and Barbaresco appellations.<br />
Monferrato has always been slightly more in the shadows than the Langhe region, but in recent<br />
years it has carved out a significant place for itself in the market through wine tourism and<br />
typical wines such as Barbera and Moscato. Before Nebbiolo rose to prominence, the wines<br />
were among the most important pours in the region and have now garnered international<br />
recognition. From the Cordara winery’s perspective, Barbera has enhanced the reputation and<br />
positioning of Monferrato wines due to the inception of the Nizza DOCG.<br />
Climate change has been having a significant impact in recent years, creating challenges both<br />
for growing grapes and across the production process. The challenges have been amplified for<br />
wineries such as Cordara, which do not use technologies such as temperature control and refrigeration<br />
systems. Despite these difficulties, the team’s experience and sensitivity is enabling<br />
the winery to preserve the balance and identity of the wines.<br />
In the future, the company will launch production of two appellations from a new 1.20 hectare<br />
vineyard: a Nizza DOCG and a Monferrato Rosso DOC from Syrah grapes. The company’s<br />
overall production is in the range of 20,000 – 25,000 bottles a year and the main export markets<br />
are Italy and Northern Europe.<br />
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ITALY<br />
TERROIR<br />
BERSANO – ENCAPSULATING THE<br />
HISTORY OF NIZZA MONFERRATO<br />
AND PIEDMONT<br />
BERSANO’S MANAGING DIRECTOR FEDERICA MASSIMELLI AND<br />
HER SON FEDERICO, WHO IS DUE TO TAKE OVER THE WINERY<br />
Founded by Arturo Bersano in 1907, Bersano winery<br />
has preserved the best of the winemaking and social<br />
culture of the Langhe and Monferrato regions and is<br />
now taking it out to the world. The company is run<br />
by the four Massimelli sisters who have their sights<br />
squarely set on the future Managing director Federica<br />
Massimelli’s son, Federico, is in line to take over<br />
the winery, which owns 10 farms embracing more<br />
than 230 hectares of vineyards. Only the finest fruit<br />
is selected to produce wines that encapsulate the<br />
identity of the grapes without compromising on<br />
flavour or quality.<br />
Bersano produces Barolo DOCG Riserva Cannubi,<br />
Barolo DOCG Riserva Badarina, Barolo DOCG Badarina,<br />
Nizza DOCG Riserva, Nizza DOCG, Ruché Di<br />
Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG,<br />
Nebbiolo D’alba DOC, Barbera D’alba DOC, Barbera<br />
D’asti DOCG, Barbera D’asti DOCG Superiore,<br />
Dolcetto D’alba DOC, Grignolino D’asti DOC, Gavi<br />
Di Gavi DOCG, Roero Arneis DOCG, Sauvignon<br />
Piemonte DOC, Piemonte Rosato DOC, Brachetto<br />
D’acqui DOCG, Pinot Spumante Brut DOC, Moscato<br />
Asti DOCG, as well as other VSQ traditional method<br />
sparkling wines. This extensive range of wines has<br />
helped shape the identity of the different parts of<br />
southern Piedmont.<br />
The Bersano winery views Piedmont’s image as very<br />
positive, both in Italy and worldwide. The region is<br />
famed for producing some of the most prestigious<br />
and renowned wines in the world, such as Barolo<br />
and Barbera, and over the past 10 years, Piedmont<br />
has also ramped up its wine tourism activities. At the<br />
same time, wineries have worked hard to improve<br />
their winemaking techniques, promote the region,<br />
and offer a showcase for native grape varieties.<br />
Also, by securing Unesco World Heritage status for<br />
Langhe-Roero and Monferrato in 2014, the image of<br />
local wines has been enhanced.<br />
Importantly, Piedmont wine producers are tackling<br />
climate change head-on by adapting their vineyard<br />
management strategies and aiming for greater<br />
environmental sustainability through research and<br />
THE HISTORY OF BERSANO IS CLOSELY LINKED TO THE NIZZA MONFERRATO RAILWAY,<br />
THANKS TO WHICH ARTURO BERSANO WAS ABLE TO TRANSPORT HIS WINES<br />
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ITALY<br />
TERROIR<br />
STEFANO RICAGNO, CUVAGE’S MANAGER<br />
innovation. This includes choosing more resistant<br />
vines and using water responsibly, as well as developing<br />
innovative solutions and sharing best practices.<br />
Sustainability and adaptation are growing<br />
priorities within the wine industry to address climate<br />
challenges.<br />
Bersano plans to continue its focus on sustainability,<br />
innovation and the constant pursuit of excellence,<br />
aiming to reduce its environmental impact through<br />
sustainable farming practices and the responsible<br />
use of resources. Their goal is to do this by developing<br />
innovative winemaking techniques with indigenous<br />
grape varieties to offer unique, high quality wines<br />
which will allow them to continue to be a benchmark<br />
in the wine industry, stay ahead of market trends and<br />
increasingly promote wine as an experience.<br />
FOR CUVAGE, TRADITIONAL METHOD SPARKLING WINES<br />
AND, IN PARTICULAR, ALTA LANGA, REPRESENT THE<br />
FUTURE OF THE COMPANY AND THE REGION.<br />
CUVAGE – EXPRESSING<br />
REGIONAL IDENTITY THROUGH<br />
TRADITIONAL METHOD<br />
SPARKLING WINES<br />
Cuvage is located in Acqui Terme, in the Monferrato<br />
area, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in<br />
2014. Since its inception in 2011, the aim has been to<br />
produce high quality traditional method sparkling<br />
wines, with a strong bond to the production area,<br />
and deliver a modern, elegant version of Piedmont<br />
sparkling wine traditions. Cuvage does not own its<br />
own vineyards but oversees around 80 hectares of<br />
local vineyards which have been selected based on the<br />
appellations produced and the quality of the grapes<br />
grown. The wines are labelled Alta Langa DOCG,<br />
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Piemonte DOC Chardonnay,<br />
and Asti DOCG.<br />
Cuvage prioritises the entire region and its appellations,<br />
but Alta Langa DOCG is the company’s main<br />
focus. Using the traditional method enables international<br />
grape varieties to convey regional identity and<br />
paves the way for them to be experienced around the<br />
world. Piedmont is a global wine icon, establishing<br />
itself as a brand that is synonymous with long-standing<br />
traditions and history. In recent years it has<br />
taken further steps to position itself among the<br />
great wine regions by continuing to focus on excel-<br />
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CECILIA ZUCCA AND HER<br />
DAUGHTER ELEONORA DEZZANI,<br />
THE TWO WOMEN AT THE HELM<br />
OF PO<strong>GG</strong>IO RIDENTE<br />
lence, especially for wine tourism, which is a resource that will be increasingly important to the<br />
industry. Business is going very well, but Cuvage is concerned about the effects of climate change<br />
and is therefore taking measures in the vineyard and the winery to reduce waste and save energy.<br />
For Cuvage, identity and sustainability are key to the future.<br />
PO<strong>GG</strong>IO RIDENTE – DIVERSITY AND RESPECT,<br />
FROM THE VINEYARD TO THE GLASS<br />
Poggio Ridente is located on Cocconato hill, home to the San Sebastiano and Vallìa vineyards.<br />
Due to the particular soil and climate, it is known as the ‘Monferrato Riviera’. Here, Cecilia Zucca<br />
concentrates on farming Barbera and Albarossa vines organically, alongside 3 hectares of recently<br />
planted Pinot Noir, Viognier, Riesling and Sauvignon, and the latest addition, Nebbiolo, planted<br />
just two years ago. The winery has 11 hectares of organically managed vineyards surrounded by<br />
woods and hedges. Sitting at an altitude of over 450 metres above sea level, the land is divided into<br />
three main vineyard blocks on the opposite sides of Cocconato. It produces Barbera d’Asti DOCG,<br />
Piemonte DOC Albarossa, Ruché Di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, Piemonte DOC Pinot Nero,<br />
Piemonte DOC Viognier, and Monferrato DOC Bianco.<br />
Poggio Ridente feels that Piedmont red wines have a good reputation nationally but also internationally,<br />
particularly in the USA. In Northern Europe there has been a slight downturn in sales, especially<br />
in recent years, with a return to simpler wines with lower alcohol content, but new markets<br />
such as China are showing positive signs. Producing organic wines offers marketing advantages but<br />
in terms of vineyard management, it is much more complex. It does, though, allow biodiversity to<br />
be preserved. The company’s latest projects are mainly aimed at harvesting and storing rainwater<br />
for winemaking needs and emergency irrigation. Solar panels have also been installed on the roofs<br />
to provide power for both the new structure and the storage facilities.<br />
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ITALY<br />
TERROIR<br />
CHIARA SOLDATI, OWNER OF LA SCOLCA WINERY, AND HER SON FERDINANDO, WHO<br />
REPRESENTS THE SIXTH GENERATION OF THE HISTORIC GAVI WINE FAMILY<br />
Just six months ago, the winery opened new accommodation<br />
facilities called ‘Terrazza Vallìa’, offering<br />
wine tastings, guided vineyard tours, picnics in the<br />
vineyard, yoga days, wellness treatments and an<br />
E-bike experience ending with a wine tasting. The<br />
experiences, combined with the high quality wines<br />
that Piedmont can offer, form part of the region’s<br />
comprehensive wine tourism solutions.<br />
LA SCOLCA – THE PAST, PRESENT<br />
AND FUTURE OF GAVI<br />
THE STATE-OF-THE-ART EQUIPMENT AT LA SCOLCA ARE THE RESULT OF CONTINUOUS<br />
INVESTMENTS AIMED AT OPTIMISING PRODUCTION IN TERMS OF QUALITY, TIMING<br />
AND MANAGEMENT OF ENERGY RESOURCES<br />
La Scolca, a historic winery in the province of<br />
Alessandria on the border with Liguria, boasts 60<br />
hectares of vineyards – some of them over 60 years<br />
old – in the heart of Rovereto and Gavi. This family<br />
business, founded in 1919, has long been considered<br />
an ambassador of Gavi and offers a fusion of<br />
history, regional identity and innovation. The winery<br />
produces 17 labels and exports 80% of its production<br />
to 60 countries, including traditional export destinations<br />
such as the USA, Germany and the UK and<br />
emerging markets such as Africa, Asia and Central<br />
America.<br />
Promoting indigenous grape varieties, caring for the<br />
region and investing in technology in the vineyard<br />
and cellar are the pillars of La Scolca’s production<br />
philosophy. Hand harvesting, soft pressing, a new<br />
bottling plant to reduce water consumption and<br />
photovoltaic panels to guarantee energy self-sufficiency<br />
are just some of the examples of the winery’s<br />
focus on optimising production quality, timing and<br />
management of energy resources. It produces Gavi<br />
DOCG, Pinot Nero Piemonte DOC, and Sauvignon<br />
Piemonte DOC.<br />
According to Chiara Soldati, Piedmont has maintained<br />
its reputation both in Italy and abroad as a<br />
traditional region with a strong identity and a focus<br />
on authenticity. This basis has allowed it to adapt well<br />
to both new trends and the continuous challenges of<br />
the wine sector, while also maintaining a strong relationship<br />
with national and international consumers.<br />
Over the last 10 years, this perception has certainly<br />
increased, confirming the great appeal of Piedmont<br />
both in terms of winemaking quality and the variety<br />
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THE UNMISTAKABLE SCULPTURE<br />
OF A BUNCH OF GRAPES THAT<br />
MARKS THE ENTRANCE TO THE<br />
FONTANAFREDDA ESTATE IN<br />
SERRALUNGA D’ALBA<br />
of the wines on offer, which range from whites to fine reds and sparkling wines made using the<br />
traditional method.<br />
Climate change has had a twofold impact. The first is the new challenges thrown up by the increasingly<br />
extreme weather conditions which have impacted the ability to manage the vineyards and<br />
maintain the minerality and freshness of the wines which are fundamental to Gavi DOCG. The<br />
second is that it has allowed new wine countries to enter the market, thus increasing the number<br />
of competitors. Responding to these issues requires an even more cohesive and collaborative<br />
approach in terms of promotion, especially at national level, to improve the promotion and protection<br />
of quality wines from Piedmont and the rest of Italy.<br />
Despite recently celebrating its 105th anniversary, La Scolca is firmly focused on the future. In<br />
2023, it gained FSSC 22000 and SNQPI certifications and welcomed the arrival of 4.0 agricultural<br />
equipment, a new bottling line and a water purification plant. Another forward-looking initiative<br />
is the recent creation of a wine experience catalogue to connect wine enthusiasts to the region and<br />
allow them to experience the company’s comprehensive range. All this has been achieved through<br />
important collaborations and a constant focus on taste and market trends.<br />
FONTANAFREDDA – PIEDMONT AND THE ‘GREEN RENAISSANCE’<br />
Fontanafredda, producers of Barolo and Langhe wines in Serralunga d’Alba, was born in 1858 from<br />
the love between Vittorio Emmanuele II and Rosa Vercellana. Today, with 120 hectares of organic<br />
vineyards, it embodies a community that respects the land and aims to showcase the uniqueness<br />
of the region. The ethos in the vineyards is to fully enhance the character of each individual wine,<br />
while respecting and promoting the reciprocal relationship between the vines, the environment<br />
and people who farm the land. Fontanafredda completely avoids the use of synthetic fertilisers<br />
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ITALY<br />
TERROIR<br />
and herbicides and has introduced controlled grassing to work to improve the vineyard soils. Fontanafredda’s<br />
objective is to recount the uniqueness of the area in every MGA (Additional Geographical<br />
Statement), and in every single vineyard, enhancing the biodiversity of the Langhe and preserving its<br />
history. Fontanafredda is one of the 181 MGAs named after a group of namesake vineyards at the start<br />
of Serralunga d’Alba. At the heart of the Fontanafredda MGA lie four of Fontanafredda’s most historic<br />
and iconic vineyards: Vigna La Rosa with 70 years of continuous production, Vigna S. Pietro, Vigna<br />
Bianca and Vigna Gallareto. Other notable vineyards include Vigna La Delizia in Serralunga, within<br />
the Lazzarito MGA, and Vigna La Villa in Barolo, in the Paiagallo MGA, which date back to the royal<br />
era and were commissioned by Emanuele Alberto, the son of the first King of Italy.<br />
Fontanafredda produces Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC, Barbera d’Alba DOC,<br />
Dolcetto Diano d’Alba DOCG, Dolcetto d’Alba DOC, Langhe Rosso DOC, Piemonte DOC Barbera,<br />
Piemonte DOC Dolcetto and Langhe DOC Nebbiolo, Alta Langa DOCG, Timorasso Colli Tortonesi<br />
DOC, Roero Arneis DOCG, Langhe DOC Arneis, Langhe DOC Chardonnay, Asti Spumante DOCG,<br />
Langhe DOC Riesling, and Moscato d’Asti DOCG. Its annual production corners 6% of the entire Barolo<br />
appellation. The winery produces 7 million bottles which are exported to over 80 countries.<br />
Fontanafredda views Piedmont as a region defined by its varied terroir and choice of high quality<br />
wines, a region that has successfully repositioned itself both nationally and internationally to overcome<br />
the challenges of climate change. The Nebbiolo, Barolo and Barbaresco grape varieties play a<br />
pivotal role in contributing to Piedmont’s fame around the world. Fontanafredda focuses on sustainable<br />
quality and is therefore committed to the ‘Green Renaissance’, which targets environmental,<br />
ethical and social sustainability through measures such as reducing emissions, using eco-sustainable<br />
packaging and involving the community in organic production. Fontanafredda manages a 12-hectare<br />
forest in the lower Langa region to increase biodiversity and supports organic farming without the use<br />
of herbicides, pesticides or synthetic fertilisers. Over the last sixty years, Fontanafredda has created a<br />
community of farmers who produce quality varieties including Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, and it is<br />
IN THE 19 TH -CENTURY CELLARS OF FONTANAFREDDA, AS TRADITION DICTATES, LARGE FRENCH AND<br />
CROATIAN OAK BARRELS (ALLIER AND SLAVONIAN) ARE USED TO AGE BAROLO AND THE FINE RED<br />
WINES OF THE LANGHE REGION (BARBARESCO, NEBBIOLO, BARBERA)<br />
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TERROIR<br />
IN 2020, A NEW FONTANAFREDDA WAS BORN WITH THE AIM OF BEING EVEN BETTER THAN BEFORE<br />
AND PRIORITISING GREATER RESPECT FOR THE PLANET, UNDER THE ‘GREEN RENAISSANCE’ BANNER<br />
proud of the important social role it plays in the Langhe region, working with farmers to promote<br />
cleaner agriculture.<br />
Fontanafredda was certified as a ‘Sustainable Winery’ in 2021 and has implemented various<br />
measures for saving energy including the installation of cogeneration plants and solar panels<br />
and relamping. Sustainable mobility is promoted through electric forklift trucks, electric charging<br />
stations and a biomethane tractor introduced for the 2021 harvest. This year, a new project<br />
will be launched to reduce monoculture and continue to promote biodiversity. While the project<br />
details are currently still under wraps, it is likely that Fontanafredda will experiment with new<br />
processing systems to reduce the quantity, drift and root uptake, so as to have healthier plants<br />
and more vibrant soils.<br />
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE<br />
Piedmont is a kaleidoscope of grape varieties and vineyard sites with the ability to express individual<br />
identities through techniques which are increasingly focused on sustainability and regional<br />
recognition. While wines such as Dolcetto and Grignolino were traditionally considered more<br />
important than Barolo and Barbaresco, things have now changed. The fine wines of the Langhe<br />
have allowed the entire region to experience great success both in terms of wine tourism and positioning.<br />
Monferrato seems more inclined to focus on Barbera, but is also home to intriguing offerings<br />
such as Ruchè, a semi-aromatic variety showing great intensity and elegance. There is also a<br />
strong appeal for the micro-zones such as Carema and the excellence of North Piedmont such as<br />
Ghemme and Gattinara. Among the whites, in addition to Roero Arneis and Gavi, there is growing<br />
interest in the mineral Timorasso dei Colli Tortonesi and the versatile Erbaluce di Caluso. Last<br />
but not least, the aromatic Moscato and Brachetto are also part and parcel of the region’s history.<br />
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ROUSSETTE, SAVOY’S STAR<br />
GRAPE VARIETY<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
Set amidst the Alps, Savoy likes to scale the heights of wine. In the divine<br />
galaxy formed by three appellations – alongside Savoie and Seyssel –<br />
Roussette de Savoie shines with its light yellow hues, its unique local grape<br />
variety and its hallmark flavours that certainly deserve to be explored.<br />
DOMAINE PERRIER AT THE FOOT OF MONT GRANIER<br />
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SAVOY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
DOMAINE MARECHAL, A CAPTIVATING EPIC OF MOUNTAIN WINEGROWING<br />
The snow-capped peaks and ski slopes in winter make way for sunshine and<br />
hiking in the summer across the steep mountain landscapes. This picture-postcard<br />
image recalls the most memorable moments spent in these unspoilt surroundings.<br />
Savoy’s vineyards are unique and can be likened to one big garden where<br />
the soils mirror the significant changes in geology, from the birth of the Alps to<br />
the emergence of part of the Jura mountain range.<br />
The Roussette de Savoie protected appellation was legally officialised in 1973<br />
and the wines are made from a single typical, local grape variety, which is one<br />
of their defining features. Although the varietal’s footprint remains limited due<br />
to the constraints of vineyard sites, Roussette, aka Altesse, is among the region’s<br />
star grape varieties. Allegedly, Duke Amédée II of Savoy brought the variety back<br />
from Cyprus in 1432 for the wedding of his son to the daughter of the King of<br />
Cyprus, hence the name Altesse meaning Highness chosen in her honour. From<br />
2,000 hectares of vineyards, the region produced 107,000 hectolitres of wine<br />
in 2022, including 15,000 of Altesse over 300 hectares. “Altesse produces fresh,<br />
aromatic wines driven by dried, delicate fruits in their youth”, explains Franck<br />
Berkulès, head of communications at the Savoy wine marketing board CIVS. “On<br />
the positive side, its wines have good ageability, lasting over 20 years. However, it<br />
is very fragile and sensitive to the heat with canes that can break easily”. Roussette<br />
de Savoie may well be challenging to produce, but it is nonetheless a staple in these<br />
exceptional mountain vineyards which are a unique feature of the French wine<br />
scene. The following examples should wet your whistle!<br />
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DOMAINE MARÉCHAL, A FAMILY AFFAIR<br />
DOMAINE MARÉCHAL’S WINES GO DOWN VERY WELL WITH FOOD<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-FRANÇOIS MARÉCHAL:<br />
WHERE ALTESSE REIGNS SUPREME<br />
The story of Domaine Maréchal reads like a captivating epic of winegrowing across<br />
mountain hillsides. It began in 1989 with just three hectares, but through hard<br />
work, determination and passion, the vineyards have now been extended to a<br />
dozen or so hectares. Environmentally-friendly vineyard management techniques<br />
are part of an unwavering commitment and include grass cover with sustainable<br />
plant protection and heritage and landscape conservation. The ethos is very much<br />
about building up a winegrowing legacy that reflects a genuine attachment to the<br />
land. “Even though volumes are low, Roussette de Savoie reigns supreme”, believes<br />
Jean-François Maréchal. “It is a top quality grape that every winegrower crafts as<br />
their regional flagship with absolute freshness that you don’t find in other appellations”.<br />
Altesse de Beauregard is pure and elegant and leaves a lasting impression<br />
on the senses with its invigorating yet fairly plump palate, welcome intensity and<br />
a chiselled mineral note. “Often the palate delivers a measure of fullness with ripe<br />
fruit and a minerality that goes down very well with food”, adds Nathalie Maréchal.<br />
“The reputation of Savoy wines is growing rapidly. The wines can be found in the<br />
top gastronomic restaurants across France and in export markets too. For us, this<br />
means markets in the United States, Canada, Asia and Europe”.<br />
CAVE DES VINS FINS DE CRUET: A FOCUS ON QUALITY<br />
At the outbreak of the Second World War, winegrowers in three villages in the<br />
Combe de Savoie laid the foundations for what would become an extraordinary<br />
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APPELLATION<br />
journey. In this felicitous wine region, they pooled<br />
both their vineyards and their skills to create<br />
the Cave des Vins Fins de Cruet in 1939. Savoy’s<br />
largest co-operative now boasts 240 hectares<br />
under vine and 70 member growers, producing<br />
15,000 hectolitres annually which equates to<br />
15% of total output for the two appellations Vin<br />
de Savoie and Roussette de Savoie. The vines are<br />
harvested by hand and the fruit is fermented<br />
separately as each varietal reaches peak ripeness,<br />
yielding award-winning wines. “Our Roussettes<br />
show distinctive fruity and floral characters”,<br />
explains David Henriquet, a winegrower and<br />
administrator of the winery. “They mirror their<br />
unique and outstanding vineyard sites with beautiful<br />
aromas of pear and hawthorn standing out<br />
amidst a varied bouquet. This native grape variety<br />
is successful because it is rare and that is definitely<br />
a bonus in export markets”. The Savoie Altesse<br />
label is produced on clay-limestone soils with a<br />
South-South-East aspect and temperate climate.<br />
Its flowery, honeyed notes delivering unforgettable<br />
perfumes and its mouth-filling, rich and<br />
harmonious palate make it popular. However, it<br />
isn’t all plain sailing – the variety is fragile, tricky<br />
to handle and sensitive to excessive heat and<br />
dampness. “Altesse requires constant attention”,<br />
adds Henriquet. “It is still fairly low-key due to<br />
its low volumes, but it benefits from a focus on<br />
quality. Communications and promotion on the<br />
variety will help us spread the word”.<br />
HARVESTING AT THE CAVE DE CRUET<br />
THE WINERY AT CAVE DE CRUET<br />
DOMAINE ADRIEN VEYRON:<br />
HIGH STANDARDS<br />
Admittedly, the old Apremont vines at Domaine<br />
Adrien Veyron honour Jacquère, but this traditional<br />
local variety also makes room for Altesse,<br />
mirroring the winery’s high standards and quality.<br />
The story began in 1955 when Jean-Baptiste Veyron<br />
and his wife Victoria established a farm in Apremont<br />
with a few vines and some livestock. In the<br />
1970s, the development of winter sports brought<br />
a new consumer audience that discovered local<br />
products. In 1975, their son Adrien Veyron took<br />
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SAVOY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
over the property and brought renewed impetus to the family business. He developed<br />
sales by canvassing restaurants in the ski resorts, wine merchants and stores<br />
selling regional products, enhancing the image and reputation of the winery. With<br />
his wife Nathalie, who began working with him in 1991, he enabled the property<br />
to thrive, and introduced sustainable vineyard management culminating in<br />
certification in 2018 which included protection of biodiversity. The Roussette de<br />
Savoie range encapsulates the mountain climate, the clay-limestone soils and the<br />
specific techniques used. The fruit is picked only when fully ripe then undergoes<br />
cold, skin-contact soaking. “The palate is rounded and pleasant but not sweet. It<br />
is smooth and appetising with a long, balanced finish typical of a top white wine”,<br />
claims Thomas Veyron, who joined the estate in 2009 at the age of 22. “It has to be<br />
said though that this remarkable grape variety absolutely does not like droughts<br />
and remains prone to disease, particularly powdery mildew”. Consequently, vine<br />
growth stalls and the leaves roll up when this occurs. “In my opinion, Roussette de<br />
Savoie is one of the top Savoy wines”, believes Veyron. “Its price can vary significantly<br />
from one production area to another and depending on the way it is made,<br />
but it is still an asset compared with whites made from Chardonnay or Sauvignon”.<br />
THE VEYRON FAMILY - THOMAS THE SON, FIFTH-GENERATION WINEGROWER, NATHALIE<br />
THE MOTHER AND ADRIEN THE FATHER AND FOUNDER OF ADRIEN VEYRON<br />
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THE HUGE OPEN<br />
LANDSCAPES AROUND<br />
THE CAVE DE CRUET<br />
ADRIEN AND NATHALIE<br />
VEYRON IN THEIR<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
THE PERRIER FAMILY -<br />
GILLES, GILBERT,<br />
ALEXANDRE, PHILIPPE<br />
AND CHRISTOPHE<br />
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SAVOY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
VIGNOBLE PERCEVAL:<br />
TYPICITY AND FRESHNESS<br />
GUY, PAUL, PASCAL AND GWENAËLLE PERCEVAL<br />
SNOW AT DOMAINE PERCEVAL<br />
This family-owned property founded in 1910<br />
produces distinctive wines with rounded<br />
tannins and assertive character. At its helm is<br />
Pascal Perceval and his wife Gwenaëlle who skilfully<br />
blend tradition, expertise and entrepreneurship<br />
in their 54-hectare vineyard, producing<br />
a staggering 40 different labels. Roussette<br />
de Savoie thrives on their clay-limestone soils,<br />
beguiling with its typicity, freshness, subtle<br />
aromas of honey, almond and citrus fruit and<br />
its weighty palate followed by a supple finish.<br />
“Altesse is only grown in Savoy, and that’s a<br />
bonus in export markets”, feels Pascal Perceval.<br />
“However it is quite challenging to grow as the<br />
canes are fragile and the variety is prone to<br />
disease. It is also an early-ripening grape with<br />
a very dense canopy”. The winery’s extensive<br />
portfolio, which includes Mondeuse, Abymes,<br />
Apremont, Chignin and Jacquère, also features<br />
a superb Roussette de Savoie, which makes the<br />
perfect appetiser or pairs with white meats, fish,<br />
seafood, hard cheeses or puddings. “Roussette is<br />
well-known and enjoyed in neighbouring regions<br />
but elsewhere it is fairly under-the-radar”, adds<br />
Perceval. “Its noteworthy differences with Chardonnay<br />
stem from the land. It is planted on<br />
hillsides and exposure to the sunshine is therefore<br />
shorter, with the limestone soils displaying<br />
greater character and roundness”.<br />
JEAN PERRIER ET FILS:<br />
A LONG-STANDING DYNASTY<br />
The story of this incredible dynasty meshes with<br />
the history of Savoy wines. Since 1853 and over<br />
7 generations, Domaine Jean Perrier & Fils has<br />
promoted an authentic lifestyle that is renowned<br />
internationally. Its 60 hectares produce primarily<br />
the prestigious Altesse grapes. “The varietal<br />
is amazing in that it yields white wines that are<br />
completely different depending on their vineyard<br />
sites and aspect”, comments Gilles Perrier. “It is<br />
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APPELLATION<br />
graceful and boasts finesse and the kind of hallmark<br />
roundness that export markets are very<br />
fond of”. The winery showcases two harmonious<br />
labels, Château de Monterminod and Fleur d’Altesse<br />
with its appealing nose gifted with floral<br />
notes and a fleshy, concentrated palate that is<br />
very lively. Its intense, exotic characters flow into<br />
a spicier finish. “Savoy is known for Jacquère,<br />
which is very widespread in our region”, adds<br />
Perrier. “Altesse follows in its wake and piques<br />
people’s curiosity, attracting consumers with a<br />
penchant for dry, fruity and very aromatic white<br />
wines. Their freshness and complexity definitely<br />
offer something for lovers of fine fare and for an<br />
international audience looking for new sensations<br />
and simple pleasures that can be shared<br />
with good food. Its production remains limited,<br />
however, particularly because it is heavily<br />
dependent upon weather conditions”.<br />
ALEXANDRE PERRIER, THE CELLAR MASTER AT THE FAMILY-<br />
OWNED DOMAINE PERRIER<br />
ROUSSETTE, THE FULL-FLEDGED<br />
RANGE STAPLE<br />
Roussette de Savoie’s reputation has grown apace<br />
over the past few years and it has successfully<br />
moved beyond the seasonal, holiday markets.<br />
It has also broken away from the traditional<br />
pairings with local cheese-based speciality foods,<br />
like raclette or tartiflette. “Altesse has its own<br />
trademark identity and characteristics stemming<br />
from Alpine vineyard sites. It is less vegetal<br />
than Sauvignon but just as powerful”, comments<br />
Franck Berkulès from the CIVS. “Compared with<br />
Chardonnay, it has a little extra fruit which shines<br />
through even with no oak influence”.<br />
In the extensive fresh, fruity white wine space,<br />
Roussette de Savoie is now a full-fledged range<br />
staple. Its winegrowers are working hard to raise<br />
awareness and create an impactful image for their<br />
industry with increasingly noticeable elegant,<br />
delicate pours. With price tags that are still reasonable,<br />
it has an edge over the competition, despite<br />
the fact that volumes are still fairly low, particularly<br />
for export markets. But then, the greatest<br />
pleasures are always worth fighting for…<br />
DOMAINE DU CHÂTEAU DE MONTERMINOD<br />
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PROSIT GROUP<br />
FROM NOUGHT TO SIXTY (MARKETS)<br />
IN FIVE YEARS<br />
BY ELLEN BUDGE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF PROSIT GROUP<br />
In just five years, Prosit Group has gone from inception to a holding company<br />
with five wineries, a US import company and sixty export markets to its credit.<br />
Its CEO Sergio Dagnino and marketing manager Luca Maruffa explain the<br />
ethos driving the group’s development, and its plans for the future.<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT TORREVENTO ARE AT THE FOOT OF THE STORIED 13TH-CENTURY CASTEL DEL MONTE IN APULIA<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
CEO SERGIO DAGNINO, A MAN ON A MISSION<br />
Sergio Dagnino, who has extensive experience in the wine industry and other sectors, had a vision when<br />
he established Prosit Group in 2018, and that was to bring together wineries from across Italy to create<br />
a premium portfolio for both the domestic and export markets. Not a ground-breaking initiative you might<br />
think. But where Prosit Group differs from its Italian counterparts is that it has recruited the financial<br />
help of a ‘Made in Italy’ investment fund, Quadrivio Group, to drive a rate of growth that is nothing short<br />
of meteoric. “Prosit Group is not an investment fund project”, stresses Sergio Dagnino, however. “It is a<br />
wine industry-based initiative and Quadrivio has a long-term vision for its investment. To launch such an<br />
ambitious acquisition programme, we needed the help of an external investment fund”.<br />
SPECIFIC SELECTION CRITERIA<br />
The portfolio to date features wineries in five different Italian wine regions – Tuscany, Abruzzo, Veneto, Apulia<br />
and Lombardy. Again, the criteria for selecting the wineries – some of them under sole ownership, others with<br />
a majority shareholding – set Prosit Group apart from similarly structured companies. “One of our criteria is<br />
altitude”, explains Dagnino. “On average, the vineyards are located 350 metres above sea level”. Their positioning<br />
tends to be premium, though not luxury, and the wineries need to be complementary: “The aim is not just<br />
to buy a winery for its brand, but for the way that it fits within the range in terms of varietals and production<br />
possibilities”. Another leitmotif is a winery’s potential to grow, with investments injected into brand equity<br />
and marketing strategy. A case in point is the former co-operative Cantina di Montalcino in Tuscany. “In 2000,<br />
a lot of investment was made in terms of the structure of the winery, which was designed by an architect.<br />
We want to be perceived going forward as the most contemporary winery in Montalcino”, stresses Dagnino,<br />
who works with a select group of grape growers to improve the quality of the wines and reposition the brand.<br />
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NESTORE BOSCO IS A<br />
HISTORIC WINERY NEAR<br />
THE MAIELLA MASSIF IN<br />
THE ABRUZZO REGION<br />
EACH WINERY HAS ITS USP<br />
Other unique acquisition choices include Tenuta di Collalbrigo in Veneto, now wholly owned by<br />
Prosit Group. “We weren’t interested in commoditised Prosecco”, explains Dagnino. “So we bought<br />
a very small winery, mainly producing DOCG Prosecco with Rive di Collalbrigo and some other<br />
styles of Prosecco”. In Apulia, aside from its well-established reputation, Prosit Group was drawn to<br />
Torrevento’s unique varietals: “It was the first winery in the 1980s and 1990s to create single varietal<br />
Nero di Troia, which in my opinion is a very interesting grape variety”, explains marketing manager<br />
Luca Maruffa. Nestore Bosco, in the Abruzzo region, brings with it very well-known varietals such as<br />
Montepulciano and Pecorino along with the storied Cerasuolo. In each case, highly renowned and<br />
respected winemakers are associated with the wineries, from Riccardo Brighigna at Nestore Bosco<br />
to Leonardo Palumbo at Torrevento and Riccardo Pucci and Silvia Giani at Cantina di Montalcino.<br />
Prosit Group intends to leverage their reputations and their expertise through winemaker signature<br />
labels and also an “affordable luxury” project currently being finalised in Bolgheri. The company has<br />
partnered with Count Gaddo della Gherardesca to produce a Brunello di Montalcino, a rosé and a<br />
white, and its winemakers are all providing input for the wines due to be presented in Castagneto<br />
Carducci in May.<br />
SCALING UP PRODUCTION<br />
The project illustrates Prosit Group’s intention to offer a broad-ranging array of wines, running<br />
the gamut in terms of regions, price points and target markets. In 2022, it bought Casa Vinicola<br />
Caldirola, owner of the popular Italian off-trade brand La Cacciatora. The brand has recently been<br />
re-launched and embraces a range of varietals from Sicily and other regions, bottled with screwcaps<br />
which is a rarity for the Italian market, though it will also be shipped overseas. La Cacciatora was<br />
not the only asset that attracted Prosit Group’s investment: “The acquisition was intended to allow<br />
us greater space to develop large-scale production of wines using its facilities”, shares Dagnino.<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
A GATEWAY TO THE US MARKET<br />
Similarly, the purchase of Connecticut-based<br />
Italian import company Votto Vines Importing<br />
is strategically designed to ramp up the group’s<br />
presence in the all-important US market. The<br />
small-medium importer established by the Votto<br />
family has an office in New York and its headquarters<br />
in Connecticut. Its role will be to provide a<br />
gateway to the United States for a notoriously<br />
fragmented Italian wine industry. “Many Italian<br />
wine companies are too small and not organised<br />
enough to push their wines in the right channels<br />
and markets through a well-defined proposition<br />
and positioning. Prosit Group aims to bring<br />
together wineries with amazing potential to<br />
create synergies, especially in marketing, distribution,<br />
sales and production, helping individual<br />
companies to develop a more complex proposition<br />
without wresting control of them”, stresses<br />
Maruffa.<br />
“OUR FOCUS IS ON WINERIES WITH GREAT, UNEXPRESSED<br />
POTENTIAL”, EXPLAINS PROSIT GROUP HEAD OF<br />
MARKETING LUCA MARUFFA<br />
CATERING TO MULTIPLE MARKETS<br />
The US is just one market, albeit a significant<br />
one, out of a collection of 60 different destinations<br />
where Prosit Group now ships in excess of<br />
26.5 million bottles of wine generating 83 million<br />
euros in revenue. “Aside from the US, one of our<br />
most important markets currently is Canada, particularly<br />
Quebec”, explains Maruffa. “Torrevento is<br />
also well-established in Germany and we’re doing<br />
well in Benelux with selected importers. South-East<br />
Asia is offering us the opportunity to open up new<br />
markets and closer to home, in Italy, we are developing<br />
the on-trade”. Innovation is viewed as a way of<br />
catering to multiple audiences and future-proofing<br />
the group – from screwcaps to the no-lo segment,<br />
lighter bottles and recycled paper for the packaging,<br />
a multi-pronged approach aims to respond to<br />
a wide range of needs, “without betraying the identity<br />
of the companies because the wines produced<br />
show great typicity”. Although the number of<br />
acquisitions over the past five years has been staggering,<br />
and led to the ongoing rebranding process,<br />
there is every likelihood that it will continue going<br />
forward. “We are always looking for new acquisitions”,<br />
confirms Dagnino. Watch this space….<br />
THE FORMER CO-OPERATIVE WINERY IN MONTALCINO<br />
WAS DESIGNED BY AN ARCHITECT IN 2000<br />
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SOUTH AMERICA GOES<br />
SPARKLING<br />
BY MAURICIO LLAVER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
Sparkling wines are beginning to make festive noises in South<br />
America and are rippling outwards to global markets. Argentina,<br />
Uruguay and Ecuador are witnessing new developments that<br />
deserve a toast.<br />
THE CRUZAT WINERY IS LOCATED IN LUJÁN DE CUYO, MENDOZA. THE GRAPES COME FROM THIS AREA AND THE UCO VALLEY<br />
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SOUTH AMERICA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
PHILIPPE CARAGUEL’S VINEYARD IN SAN JOSÉ, TUPUNGATO, THE LOCATION FOR THE CHARDONNAY GRAPES<br />
In South America, several wineries are developing their own sparkling wines, guided by<br />
the classic principles of Champagne winemaking while seeking to elicit the best from<br />
their own terroirs. From Cruzat and Philippe Caraguel in Mendoza, Argentina to Viña<br />
Eden in Pueblo Eden, Uruguay and Dos Hemisferios in Guayas, Ecuador, emerging trends<br />
are showing that the search for excellence knows no borders or geographical limitations.<br />
CRUZAT: TRADITIONAL METHOD ONLY<br />
Cruzat is the only Argentinian winery which focuses solely on producing sparkling<br />
wines using the traditional method. It was founded 20 years ago by a group of Chilean<br />
businessmen who joined forces with agronomist and winemaker Pedro Federico Rosell,<br />
considered a legend of Argentinian sparkling wines. With Champagne as their reference<br />
for elegance and savoir faire, they only make sparkling wines from Chardonnay and Pinot<br />
Noir grapes. Originally, one of the priorities of the project was to find the most appropriate<br />
place to plant the vineyards and build the winery, and the Mendoza areas of Luján de Cuyo<br />
and the Valle de Uco met all the requirements: they had altitude, well-drained soils and<br />
significant diurnal shift. In addition, the vitality of the Argentinian market was one of the<br />
main attractions for the venture.<br />
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LORENA MULET,<br />
THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT CRUZAT<br />
In 2011, Pedro Rosell asked Lorena Mulet, one of his students at the Faculty of<br />
Agronomy, to join the winemaking team. Today Mulet is not only in charge of all<br />
the wines, she is also one of the most recognised and respected winemakers in<br />
the Argentinian wine industry, especially for her knowledge of sparkling wines.<br />
“At Cruzat, using the traditional method, we seek to produce sparkling wines<br />
with a special style characterised by a fine, elegant, articulate bouquet. The wines<br />
combine tradition with knowledge and technology”, explains Mulet. Cruzat<br />
markets high-end, internationally-awarded sparkling wines, such as Millésime,<br />
the winery’s icon, the single-vineyard Finca la Dama and Cruzat Orgánico, and<br />
the Cruzat Cuvée and Premier Lines, which spend 24 and 12 months on the lees<br />
respectively.<br />
New releases and innovations include Cruzat Pet Nat – made using the ancestral<br />
method – Cruzat Naranjo, the first orange sparkling wine on the market; Cruzat<br />
Cosecha Temprana, which is low in alcohol and calories; and Cruzat ICE, designed<br />
to be drunk with ice. All the wines are vegan and certified by LIAF.<br />
Also, inspired by the traditional liqueur made by the great French Champagne<br />
producers, Cruzat produces a Ratafia at the end of each vintage. It is unique in the<br />
Argentinian market and took several years of trial and research. For the Pinot Noir<br />
Ratafia, the base wine was previously macerated with nuts, such as walnuts and<br />
hazelnuts, and matured in lightly toasted French oak. For the Ratafia Chardonnay,<br />
the base wine was macerated with orange and lime peel. The process culminates<br />
with distillation in copper stills. Cruzat products are marketed throughout Argentina<br />
and exported to 15 countries, including the United States, Chile, Switzerland,<br />
Australia, Peru, the United Kingdom, Italy and Japan.<br />
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SOUTH AMERICA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
Winemaker Mulet explains that “being the only<br />
winery in Argentina focusing exclusively on<br />
producing sparkling wines using the traditional<br />
method is an important differentiator. Our<br />
know-how is unique because we are specialists<br />
in what we do and we pour all our energy into<br />
sparkling offerings. In Argentina there are very<br />
good producers of sparkling wines and together<br />
with imported products they form a broad range<br />
for increasingly knowledgeable and demanding<br />
consumers. This creates a virtuous circle that<br />
drives the segment on a daily basis”.<br />
CRUZAT SEEKS TO PRODUCE SPARKLING WINES WITH A STYLE CHARACTERISED BY A FINE,<br />
ELEGANT AND ARTICULATE BOUQUET<br />
PHILIPPE CARAGUEL:<br />
A MENDOZA NATIVE WITH<br />
FRENCH EXPERIENCE<br />
Philippe Caraguel is so confident in his sparkling<br />
wines that he decided to give his own name to his<br />
products. He first studied agronomy in Mendoza<br />
and worked at the Chandon subsidiary in Argentina,<br />
where he gained his first experience with<br />
sparkling wines. But then he switched to France<br />
thanks to a scholarship to study for a Masters<br />
in Viticulture and Oenology at the University of<br />
Montpellier, where he graduated with the French<br />
National Diploma in Oenology. Once he finished<br />
his Master’s degree, Caraguel went to Champagne,<br />
where he did a placement at Moët & Chandon,<br />
continuing to work with the company for a year<br />
and a half subsequently.<br />
That experience would prove to be decisive. Caraguel<br />
recounts: “I was part of a very professional<br />
group led by Richard Geoffroy, the-then chef de<br />
cave at Dom Perignon. I gained a huge amount of<br />
knowledge which later, when I returned to Argentina,<br />
I applied to my own professional project”.<br />
His project, Philippe Caraguel, has a French<br />
partner, Jean-Etienne Beaune, who owns the<br />
Atamisque winery in Tupungato, in Mendoza’s<br />
Uco Valley. “The art of making our sparkling wines<br />
begins with growing Chardonnay grapes on the<br />
best plots on our estate, located in outstanding<br />
sites in San José, Tupungato, in the Uco Valley.<br />
These produce fruit of the highest winemaking<br />
PHILIPPE CARAGUEL’S EXPERTISE COMES PARTLY FROM A PLACEMENT AT MOËT &<br />
CHANDON, IN FRANCE’S CHAMPAGNE REGION<br />
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SOUTH AMERICA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
quality”, explains Caraguel. “The soil is of alluvial origin, with a loamy texture and a<br />
rocky sub-stratum. The yield is 7,000 kg/ha for the Chardonnay which is trained using<br />
a double Guyot system with drip irrigation”.<br />
Caraguel uses Dom Ruinart as an example for Chardonnay management, based on his<br />
in-depth experience in France. “The sparkling wine truly bowled me over with its great<br />
delicacy and depth, and working with Dom Ruinart’s Chardonnay base wines was a<br />
source of inspiration for me”, he says, adding: “Extended Chardonnay maturation is not<br />
supposed to produce great complexity, but with proper vineyard management aimed at<br />
greater concentration, remarkable results can be achieved. That’s what I am looking for<br />
with my Grande Cuvée sparkling wines”.<br />
Once the Chardonnay reaches the desired level of ripeness, the winemaking process<br />
begins. Applying his French experience, Caraguel predictably uses the traditional<br />
method, which he considers to be the most appropriate for making exceptional sparkling<br />
wines. The method involves secondary bottle fermentation, with the addition of the<br />
tirage liqueur made from the base wine, yeast and sugar.<br />
For the Philippe Caraguel Grande Cuvée Extra Brut, the secondary fermentation occurs<br />
at 15°C, which aims to produce smaller bubbles. And once the fermentation is complete,<br />
the wine is kept in contact with the yeast for 24 months to achieve greater creaminess.<br />
The process ends with the addition of dosage, a syrup made from sparkling wine, sugar<br />
and French Cognac, which is dosed at 8g/l and then matured for 6 months.<br />
Caraguel defines his wine “by its elegance and complexity. It displays a yellow hue<br />
with golden reflections. On the nose, it delivers a captivating balance of white fruits,<br />
notes of honey and toast. Its fine bubbles form a persistent pearl necklace, and on the<br />
PHILIPPE CARAGUEL HAS A FRENCH PARTNER, JEAN-ETIENNE BEAUNE, OWNER OF THE<br />
ATAMISQUE WINERY IN MENDOZA’S UCO VALLEY<br />
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PHILIPPE CARAGUEL<br />
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SOUTH AMERICA<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
MARCELO BREGANTI, THE WINEMAKER AT VIÑA EDEN<br />
palate, it offers a creamy sensation with a delicate<br />
mousse and a long, unctuous finish”. Based on his<br />
extensive experience, Caraguel argues that “Argentina,<br />
with the quality of its fruit and its expertise,<br />
produces sparkling wines on a par with the best<br />
examples in the world”.<br />
VIÑA EDEN: PARADISE IN<br />
URUGUAY<br />
VIÑA EDEN AND THE SEARCH FOR A DISTINCTIVE STYLE, STARTING WITH THE<br />
ARCHITECTURE ITSELF<br />
Located in Maldonado, very near the Atlantic<br />
Ocean and a few minutes from the famous<br />
Uruguayan seaside resort of Punta del Este, the<br />
history of Viña Eden began in 2009. It started<br />
when a Brazilian couple arrived in the area of<br />
Pueblo Eden and fell in love with it, defining it as<br />
“quiet, near the sea and full of rocky hills, with a<br />
perfect terroir for producing wine”. Since then,<br />
they have poured all their efforts into developing<br />
a unique style, typical of a boutique winery, taking<br />
an artisanal, careful and sustainable approach to<br />
the production of high quality wines.<br />
Viña Edén produces white and rosé sparkling<br />
wines, both made using the traditional method,<br />
with a secondary fermentation in the bottle in the<br />
winery’s cellar at low ambient temperatures in<br />
order to obtain fine bubbles. According to winemaker<br />
Marcelo Breganti, “our sparkling wine is<br />
Brut Nature, with no added sugar or sulphites,<br />
and no dosage. It is simply disgorged and corked,<br />
with nothing added. It has more than 18 months of<br />
bottle fermentation and is disgorged as required”.<br />
For the rosé sparkling wine, Pinot Noir is the<br />
mainstay grape with a dash of 8% Chardonnay, for<br />
greater freshness. “The wine is designed as a rosé<br />
from the moment it is fermented, and not a white<br />
wine to which some red is added to give it colour”,<br />
stresses Breganti. The collection also includes the<br />
Traditional Method Sur Lies 3D, which is in its<br />
purest form, with no disgorgement, “giving consumers<br />
the opportunity to continue ageing with the<br />
yeast in suspension and decide on when to open<br />
the bottle”, explains Breganti. “It is a sparkling<br />
wine that is visually different to others because it<br />
is cloudier due to the lees that remain in suspen-<br />
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DISCOVERY<br />
sion through beading. When you drink it, however, it adds a new dimension to<br />
the palate”.<br />
The sparkling wine lines are Viña Edén (USD 45) and Pueblo Edén (USD 24), and<br />
the sales strategy includes both the domestic market and exports. In Uruguay, the<br />
products are available in specialised stores, selected restaurants, on the <strong>web</strong>site<br />
(www.vinaeden.com) and at the winery. The sparkling wines are exported to Brazil,<br />
the United Kingdom, Spain, Argentina and Mexico.<br />
Viña Edén owns 7 hectares planted to Tannat, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Marselan and<br />
Chardonnay, and is currently adding a new Cabernet Franc vineyard, which will<br />
increase its total area to 9 hectares. It uses renewable energy in all its processes.<br />
Over 80% of the energy consumed is renewable, which has led to government<br />
recognition for its energy efficient practices and measures. “Uruguay has a long<br />
history of winemaking, but Viña Eden wanted to do something different, so its<br />
founders travelled to hundreds of wineries around the world to establish an innovative<br />
and disruptive venture. The winery’s concept has always been based on three<br />
fundamental pillars: quality wine, wine tourism and sustainability and these have<br />
accompanied the entire process through to this day”, concludes Viña Edén.<br />
VIÑA EDÉN HAS AN ARTISANAL, CAREFUL AND SUSTAINABLE APPROACH TO VINEYARD<br />
MANAGEMENT AND WINEMAKING<br />
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JUAN BANOVSKY,<br />
THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT DOS HEMISFERIOS<br />
DESTINO: HALF OF THE WORLD’S DNA<br />
The Dos Hemisferios winery is located in San Miguel del Morro, in the province<br />
of Guayas, in southwestern Ecuador, a region characterised by its sunny days, cool<br />
nights, chalky soils and a continuous sea breeze. This was the birthplace for Destino,<br />
a sparkling wine made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Malbec grapes. Its challenge<br />
was to position itself as the first 100% Ecuadorian origin sparkling wine.<br />
“We want to be seen for our sparkling or high quality wines, and plant a flag in the<br />
wine world with our products while showing the essence of the Ecuadorian terroir”,<br />
says Juan Banovsky, the project’s winemaker. He highlights “our unique characteristics,<br />
such as exotic and tropical fruits, aromas and flavours typical of our limestone<br />
soil, and a freshness that comes from the proximity to our Ecuadorian coast and the<br />
Humboldt Current”.<br />
Destino is blended from three grape varieties: the classic varietals Chardonnay and<br />
Pinot Noir, which represent 50% of the base wine and instil freshness and elegance,<br />
and Malbec, for the remaining 50%, providing more structure and fruit characters.<br />
The grapes are harvested by hand and in equal parts, which ensures quality and<br />
precision in the selection of the raw material. The sparkling wine is made using the<br />
traditional method, with a secondary fermentation in the bottle for three months,<br />
followed by ageing in the bottle on the lees for a further 24 months, in optimal ageing<br />
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ROBERT WRIGHT,<br />
THE CEO OF<br />
DOS HEMISFERIOS<br />
conditions. Riddling, disgorging and dosage are carried out manually. According to<br />
Banovsky, “being 10 kilometres from the sea ensures expression of saline characters<br />
and freshness in our sparkling wine”.<br />
In terms of food pairings, Dos Hemisferios recommends seafood such as oysters,<br />
Ecuadorian ceviche, white fish tiraditos and sushi as well as various types of<br />
cheese, especially those with intense and salty flavours. Desserts are also another<br />
option. “Destino represents a winemaking milestone for our country, as it is the<br />
first sparkling wine showing these characteristics. The achievement highlights<br />
the great capacity and potential of our land for producing high quality wines”,<br />
claims Banovsky.<br />
The price per bottle is US$26.79 plus tax. Due to limited production of just 3,300 bottles<br />
per year, it is only currently marketed in the Ecuadorian domestic market, although<br />
export plans are already being studied with distributors in Germany and the United<br />
Kingdom. “Our sales strategy is based on positioning it as the first sparkling wine of<br />
100% Ecuadorian origin, which invites people to get to know Ecuador and celebrate<br />
great moments and achievements, including the fact that we have made this great<br />
wine. This unique sparkling wine encourages us to see Ecuador as a wine destination<br />
with half of the world’s DNA”, says Robert Wright, CEO of Dos Hemisferios. Destino’s<br />
winemaking philosophy is inspired by the great examples from Champagne, hence its<br />
focus on complexity and elegance, combined with the distinctive contribution of the<br />
Ecuadorian climate and soil as differentiators.<br />
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CLASSIC BEVERAGE, A FOCUS ON<br />
SUSTAINABILITY AND ARTISAN WINES<br />
BY SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE COMPANY<br />
Classic Beverage was launched by Classic Fine Foods UK<br />
in June 2023 with the aim of expanding the company’s<br />
beverage portfolio. Jérôme Poussin, head of the beverage<br />
department, explains the company’s ethos, along with<br />
current trends in the UK market.<br />
JÉRÔME POUSSIN APPLIES THE COMPANY’S MOTTO TO THE LETTER, AND<br />
THAT IS TO BRING YOU THE VERY BEST FROM AROUND THE WORLD<br />
Tell us about the Group Classic Fine Foods. What is the<br />
concept?<br />
As the only fine foods specialist to operate in 9 different countries<br />
across Europe, The Middle East, and Asia with 26 local<br />
offices and teams, Classic Fine Foods is uniquely positioned to<br />
offer unparalleled access to the best ingredients from across<br />
the globe, regardless of cuisine or cooking style. Since 2021,<br />
we have also supplied clients in new geographical areas including<br />
the Indian Ocean and the Caribbean Islands to name a<br />
few, thanks to our brand new Classic Fine Foods International<br />
located in the heart of Rungis market in France.<br />
Our mission is to source and bring exceptional ingredients<br />
and unique gourmet products to the most demanding chefs<br />
around the world, whatever their type of cuisine and cooking<br />
style.<br />
Through close partnerships with our selected suppliers, we<br />
deliver on demand, the highest quality ambient, fresh and<br />
frozen products to the best restaurants, hotels and pastry<br />
shops, and also supply the most prestigious department<br />
stores and gourmet food outlets. Classic Fine Foods’ success<br />
is based on the team’s finely honed spirit of entrepreneurship<br />
and the very close relationships it forms with customers and<br />
suppliers all over the world.<br />
Tell us more about the recent development of Classic Beverage<br />
in the UK. When was it launched? Why was it launched?<br />
Classic Beverage by Classic Fine Foods UK was launched in<br />
June 2023 because we wanted to expand our beverage selection<br />
at Classic Fine Foods UK and position ourselves as experts<br />
in this field by creating our own brand for this category.<br />
The Classic Beverage category has allowed the Classic Fine<br />
Foods UK team to expand their knowledge and be able to offer<br />
more to their customers.<br />
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UNITED KINGDOM<br />
IMPORTER<br />
What are your goals at Classic Beverage and<br />
what are your strengths?<br />
At Classic Fine Foods our philosophy is simple –<br />
to bring you the very best from around the world.<br />
At Classic Beverage we are always on the lookout<br />
for exceptional artisan wines, brands synonymous<br />
with quality, identity of terroir, reasoned<br />
production and moderate prices, which we<br />
can offer to our customers. We achieve this by<br />
building strong relationships with producers,<br />
thus enabling us to offer high quality wines to<br />
our customers.<br />
JÉRÔME POUSSIN’S WHOLEHEARTED COMMITMENT OFTEN MEANS THAT HE EVEN VISITS<br />
HIS SUPPLIERS’ VINEYARDS<br />
What is wine’s share of your beverage portfolio<br />
and how do you source producers and products?<br />
Wines represent 40% of our selection and we are<br />
still developing it, mainly within the European<br />
zone as well as with new-generation wines, using<br />
biodynamic methods. It is important that all our<br />
wine suppliers have sustainable practices, that<br />
they take great care of the environment, actively<br />
encourage and maintain healthy soils for their<br />
vines and use traditional methods in their winemaking.<br />
The sourcing is based on already-established<br />
relationships, within work and recommendations<br />
as well as family and friends. It was<br />
important to build Classic Beverage with close<br />
partners who share the same philosophy as us.<br />
Regarding wine, what are the current trends in<br />
the UK and the go-to products?<br />
There are several factors, and our clients are increasingly<br />
looking for wines produced sustainably<br />
– there are great environmental concerns<br />
and a desire for healthier products. They are also<br />
becoming more adventurous, exploring wines<br />
from lesser-known regions and grape varieties,<br />
and are willing to spend more on high-quality<br />
wines. The UK is a major world platform for<br />
wines, as you have access to any region across<br />
the world, although English sparkling wines,<br />
in particular, have been gaining recognition.<br />
The quality has been improving and they provide<br />
some great alternatives to other wines, such<br />
as Champagne…<br />
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LILY COLLINS: WOMEN HAVE TAKEN<br />
OWNERSHIP OF WINE<br />
BY FRANK ROUSSEAU,<br />
OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />
34-year-old Lily Collins is the beautiful daughter of<br />
Genesis frontman Phil Collins. She is also an actress and<br />
the heroine of ‘Emily in Paris’, a series that has achieved<br />
global success and provided a showcase for the French<br />
luxury goods industry, for its fashion, gastronomy and its<br />
most iconic wines…<br />
In ‘Emily in Paris’, your character seems to be drinking a top<br />
French wine in every episode. Would you say that wine plays<br />
a pivotal role in the Netflix series?<br />
It’s nothing new, you know. Wine has become a part of the<br />
narrative symbolising social success and female empowerment.<br />
In the past, in films or series, the enjoyment of drinking wine<br />
was the prerogative of men. Women were side-lined and were<br />
simply onlookers as men savoured exceptional beverages – they<br />
weren’t able to indulge in the same way. Now, there are female<br />
sommeliers in all the top restaurants and I can assure you that<br />
they are every bit as competent as their male counterparts!<br />
So ‘Emily in Paris’ provides an amazing showcase for French<br />
wines…<br />
Absolutely! But the idea is not simply to introduce any old wine<br />
with no thought or strategy. The glass or bottle of wine must be<br />
a natural and integral part of the scene, in an organic way. They<br />
must adapt to the situation and not the opposite way around,<br />
because you can’t hoodwink viewers! They realise immediately<br />
when someone is trying to sell them something! You’re right<br />
in saying that the series is a showcase for the French lifestyle.<br />
I’ve been told that a lot of my fellow Americans were curious<br />
to know about the wines we taste, the restaurants we eat in<br />
and the brands of clothes we wear. I admit that Paris is in<br />
some ways idealised and fantasised in the series, but what’s<br />
important is promoting the destination. French appellations<br />
are synonymous with excellence and prestige. I read an article<br />
stating that wine is France’s second largest export industry<br />
98<br />
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STARS<br />
& WINE<br />
after aviation and ahead of cosmetics, and that Americans are now the largest consumers<br />
of French wines by volume!<br />
Do you remember your very first experience with French wine?<br />
A few years ago, I would often visit the tourist areas in Paris. Then one day I realised that<br />
perhaps the time had come to break the habit. That’s how I started wandering aimlessly along<br />
the streets, guided by my desires and my instincts. I would deliberately get lost, which led<br />
me to discover places that weren’t necessarily featured in the guide books.<br />
Which ones for example?<br />
I remember one evening when I stopped at a wine bar in the Marais district. It was summer<br />
and the tables were laid up outside and in the street. The atmosphere was festive and<br />
everyone was singing. I can still remember the delicious chilled rosé I was served that day!<br />
Another memorable experience was during a cocktail party on the Ile de la Cité when I got<br />
the opportunity to discover Saint-Emilion. When I saw the year on the bottle, 1953, I was<br />
amazed. Just think, my father was only two when the wine was bottled! (laughs)<br />
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CONTACT<br />
DETAILS<br />
Loire Valley - Pages 10-22<br />
• Domaine Jean-Max Roger:<br />
Tel. +33 2 48 54 32 20 -<br />
www.jean-max-roger.fr<br />
• Domaine Philippe Raimbault:<br />
Tel. +33 2 48 79 29 54 -<br />
www.philipperaimbault.fr<br />
• Domaine Henry Natter:<br />
Tel. +33 2 48 69 58 85 - www.<br />
henrynatter.com<br />
• Domaine La Barbotaine:<br />
Tel. +33 2 48 79 02 32 -<br />
www.sancerre-frederic-champault.fr<br />
• Domaine Moulin des Vrillères:<br />
Tel. +33 2 48 79 38 28 -<br />
www.sancerre-online.com<br />
• Michel Vattan:<br />
Tel. +33 2 48 79 40 98<br />
• Vignobles Gitton Père & Fils:<br />
Tel. +33 6 37 44 91 24 -<br />
www.gitton.fr<br />
Alsace - Pages 24-31<br />
• Cave de Ribeauvillé:<br />
Tel. +33 3 89 73 20 35 -<br />
www.vins-ribeauville.com<br />
• Maison Zoeller:<br />
Tel. +33 6 60 85 33 49 -<br />
www.vins-zoeller.fr<br />
• Les Vignobles Ruhlmann-Schutz:<br />
Tel. +33 3 88 92 41 86 -<br />
www.ruhlmann-schutz.fr<br />
• Domaine Clément et Matthieu<br />
Weck:<br />
Tel. +33 3 89 49 31 89 -<br />
www.weck.alsace<br />
• Domaine Aimé Stentz:<br />
Tel. +33 3 89 80 63 77 -<br />
www.vins-stentz.fr<br />
• Vins d’Alsace Kuehn:<br />
Tel. +33 3 89 78 42 10 -<br />
www.kuehn.fr<br />
Portugal - Pages 32-41<br />
• Wines of Portugal:<br />
winesofportugal.com<br />
• Vicente Faria:<br />
Tel. +351 229 260 067 -<br />
vicentefaria.com<br />
• Caves Campelo:<br />
Tel. +351 253 831 399 -<br />
correio@campelo.pt<br />
• Bacalhôa:<br />
Tel. +351 212 198 060 -<br />
info@bacalhoa.pt<br />
South Africa - Pages 42-51<br />
• Thor Vintners:<br />
Tel. +27 722381703 -<br />
www.thorvintners.com<br />
• Nativo Wines:<br />
Tel. +27 83 679 2069 -<br />
www.nativo.co.za<br />
• Leeuwenkuil:<br />
Tel. +27 845800205 -<br />
www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za<br />
• Riebeek Valley Wine Co:<br />
Tel. +27 822202702 -<br />
www.riebeekvalleywineco.com<br />
• Org de Rac:<br />
Tel. +27 723793758 -<br />
www.orgderac.com<br />
• Allesverloren:<br />
Tel. +27 22 461 2320 -<br />
www.allesverloren.co.za<br />
• Knolfontein:<br />
Tel. +27 76 834 3017 -<br />
https://knolfonteinwines.co.za<br />
Germany - Pages 52-59<br />
• Einig-Zenzen:<br />
Tel. +49 2653 9907 24 -<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de<br />
• Ruppertsberg:<br />
Tel. +49 6326 962 97 0 -<br />
www.ruppertsberger.de<br />
• Studier:<br />
Tel. +49 6237 977 28 0 -<br />
https://weingut-studier.de<br />
• Papaloves Wine:<br />
Tel. +49 211 540 80 685 -<br />
www.bedoba.wine<br />
• Enovative:<br />
Tel. +49 711 490 52 270 -<br />
www.enovative.de<br />
Spain - Pages 60-63<br />
• Bodegas Piqueras:<br />
Tel. +34 967 341 482 -<br />
www.bodegaspiqueras.com<br />
Piedmont - Pages 64-73<br />
• Bersano:<br />
Tel. +39 0141 720211 -<br />
www.bersano.it<br />
• Cordara:<br />
Tel. + 39 349 5523494 -<br />
www.cordaravini.com<br />
• Fontanafredda:<br />
Tel. +39 0173 626 111 -<br />
www.fontanafredda.it<br />
• La Scolca:<br />
Tel. +39 0143 682176 -<br />
www.lascolca.net<br />
• Cuvage:<br />
Tel. +39 0144 371600 -<br />
www.cuvage.com<br />
• Poggio Ridente:<br />
Tel. +39 351.9703573 -<br />
www.poggioridente.it<br />
100 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
CONTACT<br />
DETAILS<br />
Savoy - Pages 74-81<br />
• Domaine Jean-François Maréchal:<br />
Tel. +33 6 03 25 41 96 -<br />
www.marechal-apremont.com<br />
• Cave des Vins Fins de Cruet:<br />
Tel. +33 4 79 84 28 52 -<br />
www.cavedecruet.com<br />
• Domaine Adrien Veyron:<br />
Tel. +33 4 79 28 20 20 -<br />
www.vins-veyron.com<br />
• Vignoble Perceval:<br />
Tel. +33 4 79 28 13 13 -<br />
www.domaine-perceval.com<br />
• Jean Perrier et Fils:<br />
Tel. +33 4 79 28 11 45 -<br />
www.vins-perrier.com<br />
Italy - Pages 82-85<br />
• Prosit group:<br />
Email: info@prositgroup.it -<br />
www.prositgroup.it<br />
South America - Pages 86-95<br />
• Cruzat:<br />
Tel. +54 9 2616839422 -<br />
https://bodegacruzat.com/<br />
• Philippe Caraguel:<br />
Tel. +54 9 2616991118<br />
• Vina Eden:<br />
Tel. +55 21 985651322 -<br />
www.vinaeden.com<br />
• Dos Hemisferios:<br />
Tel. +593 97 9882116 -<br />
https://doshemisferios.com/<br />
United-Kingdom - Pages 96-97<br />
• Classic Fine Foods:<br />
Tel. +44 20 7627 9666 -<br />
www.classicfinefoods.co.uk<br />
7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France - Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88<br />
Editorial Directors:<br />
François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard<br />
Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard<br />
Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe<br />
Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout,<br />
Olivier Delorme, Gonzalo Fernandez, Matthieu<br />
Gaillard, Géraldine Spencer, James Turnbull<br />
Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard<br />
Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille<br />
Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande,<br />
Mauricio Llaver, Matthias Neske, Sylvain Patard,<br />
Francesco Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou<br />
DipWSET, Frank Rousseau<br />
Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS Traduções<br />
Sales and Marketing Director:<br />
Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26<br />
etienne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising France:<br />
Bordeaux: Frédéric Comet:<br />
+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:<br />
Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 -<br />
nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West -<br />
Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 -<br />
caroline@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne:<br />
Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 -<br />
ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Charentes and samples manager France:<br />
Sandrine Thibault: +33 6 62 76 07 15 -<br />
s.thibault@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente:<br />
(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray:<br />
(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Central and Eastern Europe:<br />
Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 -<br />
pricros@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Latam: Vivien Morvan:<br />
+33 7 61 76 01 02 – vmorvan@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Marketing coordinator: Tatiana Bellanger:<br />
+33 7 87 07 78 76 - tbellanger@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil:<br />
+33 6 77 12 77 98 - tapiokaconseil@gmail.com<br />
Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25<br />
Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65<br />
Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé:<br />
+33 6 87 27 12 65<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa:<br />
Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 -<br />
petru@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 -<br />
oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219<br />
International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd -<br />
http://www.pineapple-media.com<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director:<br />
Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: First quarter 2024 • Legal publication n° pending: ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly<br />
prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose.<br />
SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
101
PAGES 103 TO 114<br />
TOP WINES<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
THE SECOND TASTING SESSION FOR 2024 GETS UNDERWAY<br />
After a first tasting session which started at the beginning of January and ended at the end of<br />
March, the second session got underway on April 2. Building on our appeal in France, along<br />
with Italy, Spain and Portugal, we have been able to continuously explore new opportunities in<br />
the wine regions of Eastern Europe, with trade exhibitions in February (Wine Paris) and March<br />
(ProWein) providing a major boost. South Africa and South America are developing well and<br />
we also continue to clearly focus on our international development, this time with our sights<br />
squarely set on Australia and New Zealand.<br />
KNOLFONTEIN, THE VINEYARD BELONGING TO THE DU TOIT FAMILY AT THE FOOT OF THE KASTEELBERG (SWARTLAND).<br />
THE BEST OF SPRING 2024<br />
Our selection has been tasted and rated by our tasting panel and is featured on pages 103 to 114. As always,<br />
we have chosen to present you wines by country, (GERMANY, ITALY...), then by appellation in each<br />
region, with each winery listed in alphabetical order and in descending order of the scores awarded. This<br />
issue features our selection of Sancerre, Crémants d’Alsace, South African wines from Swartland, wines<br />
imported into the German market, a very eclectic line-up from Piedmont, and a delicious introduction to<br />
South American sparkling wines to round it all off!<br />
THE TASTING PANEL:<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL<br />
102 SPRING 2024 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FRANCE - CRÉMANT D’ALSACE<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
FRANCE<br />
France’s most northerly sparkling wine<br />
producer area alongside Champagne,<br />
Crémant d’Alsace is increasingly<br />
attracting interest. A share of its<br />
thoughtfully crafted, highly aromatic<br />
wines undergoes lengthy maturation,<br />
lending them complexity.<br />
CRÉMANT D’ALSACE<br />
OSTERTAG HURLIMANN 91/100<br />
D BRUT PRESTIGE : Brilliant yellow-gold.<br />
Promising nose where white fruits mesh with<br />
fern, sliced bread and a dash of pineapple. The<br />
palate is nicely delineated and supported by<br />
robust freshness. This is a wine for pleasure<br />
showing lovely clean aromatics, notes of spices<br />
and ginger and vinosity.<br />
https://www.ostertag-hurlimann.fr/ Price: € 10.20<br />
Ostertag Hurlimann +33 3 88 85 52 70<br />
BESTHEIM 90/100<br />
CR D BRUT PREMIUM : Brilliant light gold.<br />
Pleasant nose of white fruits enhanced by a<br />
faint saline, mineral touch. The attack is very<br />
appetising, the palate is very silky, crunchy and<br />
fruity. The finish is persistent and shows more<br />
of the same, subtle saltiness.<br />
http://www.bestheim.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Bestheim +33 3 89 49 09 29<br />
CATTIN SAUVAGE 90/100<br />
ORG D BRUT BIO VEGAN : Crystalline light<br />
yellow-gold with fine bubbles. Elegant nose<br />
delivering a blend of yellow plum and springlike<br />
perfumes. The palate is very delicate and<br />
ethereal with intense flavours supported by<br />
great freshness. A very enjoyable wine drinking<br />
well with blinis and taramasalata.<br />
http://www.cattin.fr Price: € 11.00<br />
Maison Cattin +33 3 89 49 30 21<br />
KUEHN 90/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT 1675 : Beautiful light gold.<br />
The nose is very intense and accented by a blend<br />
of fruit and pastry aromas. The palate is racy and<br />
silky and also shows great aromatic intensity.<br />
This is a complex, food-friendly wine pairing<br />
with poultry.<br />
http://www.geiler.fr Price: € 17.50<br />
Cave Vinicole Jean Geiler - Ingersheim +33 3 89 27 90 27<br />
DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ 89/100<br />
ORG D BRUT CUVÉE PRESTIGE<br />
http://www.vins-stentz.fr<br />
Domaine Aimé Stentz +33 3 89 80 63 77<br />
WILLY GISSELBRECHT 89/100<br />
D BRUT PRESTIGE<br />
http://www.vins-gisselbrecht.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Gisselbrecht Willy Alsace +33 3 88 92 41 02<br />
OSTERTAG HURLIMANN 89/100<br />
D BRUT ROSÉ<br />
https://www.ostertag-hurlimann.fr/ Price: € 10.20<br />
Ostertag Hurlimann +33 3 88 85 52 70<br />
LES COMTES DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 89/100<br />
D BRUT<br />
http://www.vins-ribeauville.com Price: € 11.20<br />
Cave de Ribeauvillé +33 3 89 73 61 80<br />
DOMAINE AIMÉ STENTZ 88/100<br />
ORG D BRUT ROSÉ CUVÉE PRESTIGE<br />
http://www.vins-stentz.fr<br />
Domaine Aimé Stentz +33 3 89 80 63 77<br />
JEAN GEILER 88/100<br />
D BRUT BLANC DE BLANCS LGE204<br />
http://www.geiler.fr Price: € 7.30<br />
Cave Vinicole Jean Geiler - Ingersheim +33 3 89 27 90 27<br />
BRUCKER 88/100<br />
HVE D BRUT 2019<br />
https://www.vigneron-independant.com/domaine-brucker Price: € 8.00<br />
Domaine Viticole Brucker +33 3 89 76 73 54<br />
DOMAINE JOSEPH FREUDENREICH & FILS 88/100<br />
CR D BRUT 2020<br />
https://www.joseph-freudenreich.fr/ Price: € 8.40<br />
Domaine Joseph Freudenreich & Fils +33 3 89 41 36 87<br />
DOMAINE KLEIN BRAND 88/100<br />
CONV D BRUT BLANC 2020<br />
https://www.klein-brand.fr/fr/ Price: € 9.30<br />
Domaine Klein Brand +33 3 89 47 00 08<br />
MAISON ZOELLER 88/100<br />
ORG D BRUT<br />
http://www.vins-zoeller.fr Price: € 9.50<br />
Maison Zoeller +33 3 88 48 88 59<br />
THE GRAND CRU FRANKSTEIN OWNED BY MAISON RUHLMANN-SCHUTZ IN DAMBACH LA VILLE.<br />
SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
103
FRANCE - CRÉMANT D’ALSACE<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
ALSACE IS BRIMMING WITH CHARM, LIKE THE VILLAGE OF GUEBERSCHWIHR, SOUTH OF COLMAR.<br />
WILLY GISSELBRECHT 88/100<br />
D BRUT BLANC DE NOIRS<br />
http://www.vins-gisselbrecht.com Price: € 9.50<br />
Gisselbrecht Willy Alsace +33 3 88 92 41 02<br />
DOMAINE CLAUDE ET CHRISTOPHE BLÉGER 88/100<br />
ORG D BRUT COEUR DE CRU 2018<br />
http://www.bleger.fr Price: € 11.40<br />
Domaine Claude et Christophe Bléger +33 3 88 92 32 56<br />
RUHLMANN SCHUTZ 88/100<br />
ORG D BRUT BIO - JEAN CHARLES<br />
http://www.ruhlmann-schutz.fr Price: € 12.00<br />
Ruhlmann Schutz +33 3 88 92 41 86<br />
CATTIN FRÈRES 88/100<br />
D BRUT ROSÉ<br />
http://www.cattin.fr Price: € 12.00<br />
Maison Cattin +33 3 89 49 30 21<br />
CLÉMENT ET MATTHIEU WECK 88/100<br />
CR D BRUT NATURE<br />
https://www.weck.alsace/ Price: € 12.00<br />
Weck Clément et Fils +33 3 89 49 31 89<br />
CAVE DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 88/100<br />
ORG D BRUT BIO<br />
http://www.vins-ribeauville.com Price: € 12.30<br />
Cave de Ribeauvillé +33 3 89 73 61 80<br />
E.TRABER 88/100<br />
ORG D BRUT BIO<br />
http://www.vins-ribeauville.com Price: € 12.30<br />
Cave de Ribeauvillé +33 3 89 73 61 80<br />
VIEIL ARMAND 87/100<br />
D BRUT BIENVENUE<br />
http://www.cavevieilarmand.com Price: € 6.40<br />
Cave du Vieil Armand +33 3 89 76 73 75<br />
DOMAINE JOSEPH FREUDENREICH & FILS 87/100<br />
CR D BRUT<br />
https://www.joseph-freudenreich.fr/ Price: € 8.50<br />
Domaine Joseph Freudenreich & Fils +33 3 89 41 36 87<br />
DOMAINE YVES AMBERG 87/100<br />
ORG D BRUT 2020<br />
http://www.domaine-amberg.com Price: € 8.90<br />
Domaine Yves Amberg +33 3 88 85 51 28<br />
HUBER & BLÉGER 87/100<br />
D BRUT<br />
http://www.huber-bleger.fr Price: € 9.20<br />
Huber & Bléger +33 3 89 73 01 12<br />
VIEIL ARMAND 87/100<br />
ORG D BRUT BIO<br />
http://www.cavevieilarmand.com Price: € 9.90<br />
Cave du Vieil Armand +33 3 89 76 73 75<br />
KUEHN 87/100<br />
ORG D BRUT BIOLOGIQUE<br />
http://www.geiler.fr Price: € 10.60<br />
Cave Vinicole Jean Geiler - Ingersheim +33 3 89 27 90 27<br />
CATTIN FRÈRES 87/100<br />
CR D BRUT<br />
http://www.cattin.fr Price: € 11.00<br />
Maison Cattin +33 3 89 49 30 21<br />
DOMAINE MARCEL FREYBURGER 87/100<br />
CONV D EXTRA BRUT - ELÉGANCE 2019<br />
https://www.freyburger.fr/fr/ Price: € 13.50<br />
Domaine Marcel Freyburger +33 3 89 78 25 72<br />
104 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FRANCE - SANCERRE<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
FRANCE<br />
Prized by both French and overseas<br />
consumers, Sancerre is a jewel in<br />
the Loire’s crown. Although a single<br />
appellation, it is home to myriad<br />
vineyard sites and therefore offers an<br />
extensive array of styles. But don’t trust<br />
us, see for yourself!<br />
LOIRE VALLEY<br />
SANCERRE<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 94/100<br />
D LA CÔTE DE BUÉ 2019: Light yellow-gold.<br />
Smoky minerality, citrus, ripe white fruit and<br />
flower honey aromas emerge on the nose. The<br />
palate is exotic with a fleshy touch. Lushness,<br />
roundness and freshness are all underpinned<br />
by noble aromatics in this complex, appetising<br />
Sancerre.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 29.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT 94/100<br />
CR D LES GODONS 2022: Attractive,<br />
brilliant light gold. Very expressive, profound<br />
nose offering up a blend of white fruits and a<br />
mineral touch. The palate is beautifully textured<br />
with more of the same, very effective aromatics,<br />
ending with a persistent mineral and saline<br />
finish.<br />
http://www.philipperaimbault.fr Price: € 14.60<br />
Philippe Raimbault +33 2 48 79 29 54<br />
GITTON PÈRE & FILS 94/100<br />
D VIGNE DU LARREY - MONOPOLE 2021:<br />
Brilliant yellow-gold. Very delicate nose fusing<br />
mineral, honeyed and dried fruit notes. The<br />
same complexity and finesse carry through to<br />
the palate which also displays length. This is a<br />
wine for shellfish.<br />
http://www.gitton.fr Price: € 45.00<br />
Gitton Père & Fils +33 2 48 54 38 84<br />
MICHEL VATTAN 94/100<br />
D LES L-O 2021: Pale yellow-gold. Racy nose<br />
delivering acacia, honeysuckle and ripe fruit<br />
aromas with a mineral touch. The palate is tense<br />
and unfurls an intense, precise array of lime and<br />
gooseberry aromatics. The finish lingers on and<br />
on and the overall experience is mind-blowing.<br />
http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: € 19.50<br />
Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98<br />
DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 93/100<br />
CR D VIEILLES VIGNES 2020: Fairly deep<br />
red with ruby-brown tints. Fresh cherries and<br />
wild strawberries adorn the nose with a floral<br />
edge of peony. The palate is harmonious, elegant<br />
and juicy with fresh fruit lending structure. A<br />
high-end 2020 with a moreish finish.<br />
http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 23.00<br />
Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87<br />
DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 93/100<br />
CR D LE CÔTELIN 2020: Pale yellow-gold.<br />
The nose is suffused with fine vanilla and<br />
flowers (linden) coupled with notes of citrus and<br />
bush peach with a resin-like note. The palate is<br />
harmonious and mouth-coating with its dense<br />
fruit aromatics energising the whole. The oak<br />
influence is subtle and elegant in this majestic<br />
Sancerre.<br />
http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 26.00<br />
Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87<br />
FAMILLE NATTER 93/100<br />
HVE D LES CHEVAUX DE BOIS 2020:<br />
Brilliant yellow-gold. Elegant nose offering<br />
up citrus, white fruits, hay and heady flowers.<br />
Mouth-coating, fleshy palate with a smooth<br />
mouthfeel and a delicate, complex line-up of<br />
fruits. A concentrated, generous, rare Sancerre<br />
pairing with porcini risotto.<br />
http://www.henrynatter.fr<br />
Domaine Henri Natter +33 2 48 69 58 85<br />
MICHEL VATTAN 93/100<br />
D M-K 2022: Brilliant straw-gold. Complex<br />
nose offering up citrus fruits, herbal tones<br />
of algae and moss and stony undertones.<br />
The palate is smooth and lively with intense,<br />
young flavours that lean towards fruit. This is<br />
a superlative, streamlined Sancerre displaying<br />
superb precision.<br />
http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: € 15.00<br />
Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98<br />
MICHEL VATTAN 93/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2020: Deep red tinged with<br />
dark ruby. Crisp cherries and blueberries are<br />
underscored by a dash of sweet spices on the<br />
nose. The palate is defined by its sappy fullness,<br />
its aromatic density and its subtly elegant oak<br />
influence. Superb.<br />
http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: €18.50<br />
Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98<br />
DOMAINE DANIEL REVERDY ET FILS 92/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2022: Pale yellow colour.<br />
Heady nose, with aromas of wild flowers, pink<br />
grapefruit and white peach. Gourmet, easydrinking<br />
on the palate, with mellow, flavoursome<br />
acidity stretching to infinity. The fragrances are<br />
invigorating. An invitation to travel.<br />
http://www.daniel-reverdy-sancerre.com Price: € 10.00<br />
Domaine Daniel Reverdy et Fils +33 2 48 79 33 29<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 92/100<br />
D CUVÉE MARNES ET CAILLOTTE 2022:<br />
Pale yellow with green tints. Stony minerality on<br />
the nose opens up to pomelo, fresh flowers and<br />
aromatic plant aromas. The palate is smooth,<br />
balanced and lush with a velvet-like feel nicely<br />
offset by a crisp finish and delicate sourness.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 17.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 92/100<br />
D CUVÉE LA GRANDE DIMIÈRE 2018: Light<br />
red with ruby-brown highlights. Crisp nose<br />
suffused with jammy red and black berries and<br />
a touch of menthol spice. The palate is mouthfilling<br />
and fleshy with nicely concentrated fruit<br />
aromatics and silky tannin presence. This is a<br />
clean, balanced wine with a lingering finish.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 18.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 92/100<br />
D GRAND CHEMARIN 2019: Pale gold.<br />
The nose shows a mix of citrus fruits, stony<br />
minerality, infused flowers and mushrooms. The<br />
palate is energetic with well-judged lushness<br />
that meshes with great acidity. Saline characters<br />
are tinged with fine sourness on the finish. This<br />
is a very distinctive Sancerre that truly stands<br />
out.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 26.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 92/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2020: Lovely vibrant rubyred.<br />
Very delicate nose showing ripe red berry<br />
fruit tones. The palate combines freshness,<br />
crispness and expressive flavours. This is a truly<br />
top-flight Sancerre with chiselled, persistent<br />
fruit.<br />
http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 17.50<br />
Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87<br />
L’ECLAT 92/100<br />
D CUVÉE SILEX 2022: Pale gold with light<br />
green tints. Nicely ripe nose combining citrus<br />
fruits and white flowers with touches of white<br />
fruits and a mineral edge. Substantial freshness<br />
on the palate where the freshness of the grapes<br />
and terroir aromas create a feeling of harmony.<br />
Drink, of course, with Chavignol goat’s cheese.<br />
http://pierreriffault.com/ Price: € 14.00<br />
Pierre Riffault +33 2 48 79 31 03<br />
SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
105
FRANCE - SANCERRE<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
THE SHOP BOUGHT IN THE VILLAGE OF SANCERRE OFFERS A SHOWCASE FOR DOMAINE MOULIN DES VRIÈRES.<br />
COEUR À PRENDRE 91/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2019: Beautiful, slightly<br />
mature ruby. The nose offers up a successful<br />
fusion of fruit and oaky tones that are very<br />
appetising. The palate replicates the same<br />
successful aromatics over substantial length<br />
with a robust structure and ripe tannins. Lovely<br />
fruity, spicy finish.<br />
https://www.sancerre-online.com/fr/ Price: € 14.10<br />
Moulin des Vrillères +33 6 78 95 55 63<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 91/100<br />
D CUVÉE LA GRANDE DIMIÈRE 2022: Light<br />
salmon hue. A merry-go-round of fresh fruits –<br />
red berries, citrus and melon – emerges on the<br />
nose. The palate is elegant with great aromatic<br />
finesse and the fruit flavours complementing<br />
each other perfectly. The finish is juicy and<br />
revolves around a smooth mouthfeel in this<br />
successful offering.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 16.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 91/100<br />
D CUVÉE LES CAILLOTTES 2022: Pale<br />
yellow with green tints. Fresh nose delivering a<br />
blend of citrus fruits, wild flowers and cut grass.<br />
The palate beguiles with its freshness, smooth<br />
mouthfeel and mouth-coating finish. A fleshy,<br />
oily feel surrounds the gorgeous, fresh fruit<br />
flavours in this stellar wine.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 17.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 91/100<br />
D VIEILLES VIGNES 2021: Pale gold. The nose<br />
combines infused flowers, plants and lemony,<br />
citrussy aromas. The palate is responsive and<br />
supported by a lovely acidic backbone that instils<br />
freshness throughout. The flavours are fine and<br />
delicate. This is a wine styled for elegance rather<br />
than opulence.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 24.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 91/100<br />
CR D VIEILLES VIGNES 2020: Brilliant<br />
hay-yellow. Expressive nose laden with citrus<br />
fruits then notes of apricot and a floral edge of<br />
boxwood. The stellar fruit aromatics, mouthwatering<br />
acidity and appetising roundness to<br />
finish coat the palate in this very tactile Sancerre.<br />
http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 22.00<br />
Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87<br />
DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 91/100<br />
CR D VIEILLES VIGNES 2019: Beautiful<br />
light gold with green tints. Pleasant fruity nose<br />
suffused with crisp lemony tones and mineral<br />
undercurrents. Beautiful attack on the palate<br />
which is very rich and intense with energetic<br />
ripe citrus flavours. This is a Sancerre for<br />
gourmet foods.<br />
http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 22.00<br />
Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87<br />
GITTON PÈRE & FILS 91/100<br />
D LES ROMAINS 2022: Beautiful bright<br />
light gold. Very rich nose with a honeyed tone.<br />
The palate shows pleasant intensity right from<br />
the start, followed by lovely fullness and ripe<br />
aromatics carried over substantial length by<br />
freshness. A food-friendly wine.<br />
http://www.gitton.fr Price: € 23.10<br />
Gitton Père & Fils +33 2 48 54 38 84<br />
MICHEL VATTAN 91/100<br />
D O-P 2022: Vibrant light straw-gold. Fine<br />
nose combining citrus fruits, blackcurrant<br />
bud and a delicate mineral note. The palate<br />
is tense and invigorating with flavours that<br />
show exemplary precision. Lemony mid-palate<br />
displaying great intensity. A stellar wine with all<br />
the essentials and nothing but.<br />
http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: € 14.00<br />
Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98<br />
MICHEL VATTAN 91/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2022: Pale salmon with orangey<br />
highlights. Alluring nose where red berry fruits<br />
and floral aromatics intertwine. The palate is<br />
balanced and displays clear, persistent flavours<br />
with fine spices driving the mid-palate. This is<br />
a genuine, streamlined rosé for quaffing with<br />
other enthusiasts.<br />
http://www.michel-vattan.com Price: € 14.00<br />
Michel Vattan +33 2 48 79 40 98<br />
106 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FRANCE - SANCERRE<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
DOMAINE DU CARROIR PERRIN 90/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2022: Brilliant light yellow<br />
with pale green tints. Beautiful nose of citrus<br />
and white fruits with floral and menthol<br />
touches. Clean, fruit-forward attack on the<br />
palate, echoing the nose. Substantial refreshing<br />
freshness on the finish. Drink with goat’s<br />
cheeses.<br />
http://pierreriffault.com/ Price: € 11.00<br />
Pierre Riffault +33 2 48 79 31 03<br />
DOMAINE JEAN-MAX ROGER 90/100<br />
D CUVÉE GENÈSE 2022: Pale yellow with<br />
green tints. Nose of fresh pomelo and white<br />
peaches with a whiff of flowers. This is a very<br />
pure Sancerre with a palate that is delightfully<br />
fresh, generous and driven by gorgeous tangy<br />
flavours. Minerality and a savoury feel make<br />
great partners on the finish.<br />
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr Price: € 17.00<br />
Domaine Jean-Max Roger +33 2 48 54 32 20<br />
DOMAINE LA BARBOTAINE 90/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2023: Pale lemon-yellow<br />
colour. Fragrant nose bursting with citrus fruits<br />
(grapefruit, tangerine) and floral notes. On the<br />
palate, a rich, dense style that balances freshness<br />
and fragrance. The fruit is king. Generous, deep<br />
finish. A racy Sancerre.<br />
http://www.sancerre-frederic-champault.fr Price: € 9.00<br />
Domaine la Barbotaine +33 2 48 79 02 32<br />
DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT 90/100<br />
CR D APUD SARIACUM 2022: Appealing<br />
pale pink. Elegant and relatively subdued nose<br />
showing a gunflint note. The palate is dense and<br />
fleshy with generous fruit flavours meshing with<br />
a salty edge that adds lots of structure in this<br />
gastronomic rosé.<br />
http://www.philipperaimbault.fr Price: € 13.40<br />
Philippe Raimbault +33 2 48 79 29 54<br />
DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT 90/100<br />
CR D APUD SARIACUM 2022: Beautiful<br />
bright, light gold. Endearing fruity nose<br />
punctuated by floral tones. The palate is very<br />
fresh, light and lively. This is a very accessible<br />
wine that works equally well as an aperitif or<br />
with grilled fish.<br />
http://www.philipperaimbault.fr Price: € 14.00<br />
Philippe Raimbault +33 2 48 79 29 54<br />
DOMAINE ROGER ET DIDIER RAIMBAULT 90/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2022: Clear pale yellow.<br />
Ripe grape, white fruits and subtle mineral<br />
tones adorn the nose. The attack on the palate<br />
is appealing, leading into pronounced dry<br />
characters and aromas melding fruit and<br />
gunflint. Very pure in style.<br />
http://www.raimbault-sancerre.com Price: € 16.50<br />
Domaine Roger et Didier Raimbault +33 2 48 79 32 87<br />
GITTON PÈRE & FILS 90/100<br />
D VISHNIA 2020: Appealing light red. Nose<br />
of ripe red berry fruits with a jammy tone.<br />
The palate is nicely soft right from the attack.<br />
The delicate fruit flavours are clean, ripe and<br />
persistent. This is a generous rosé that works<br />
best with food.<br />
http://www.gitton.fr Price: € 17.10<br />
Gitton Père & Fils +33 2 48 54 38 84<br />
HENRY NATTER 90/100<br />
HVE D MILLÉSIME 2020: Bright lemonyellow.<br />
Citrussy nose with a floral contribution,<br />
cut grass note and chalky touch. Great fruit<br />
density on the palate in a dynamic, fresh style.<br />
An elegant, sleek Sancerre that makes your<br />
mouth water. An excellent companion for the<br />
aperitif.<br />
http://www.henrynatter.fr<br />
Domaine Henri Natter +33 2 48 69 58 85<br />
HENRY NATTER 90/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2022: Beautiful ruby colour.<br />
Crisp, clean nose bursting with red berries.<br />
Silky, fresh and delicious mouthfeel. The finish<br />
adds reassuring substance and freshness. Try it<br />
with coq au vin.<br />
http://www.henrynatter.fr Price: € 15.00<br />
Domaine Henri Natter +33 2 48 69 58 85<br />
HENRY NATTER 90/100<br />
D MILLÉSIME 2022: Beautiful golden yellow<br />
colour. Intense nose of fresh fruit with accents<br />
of lemon and grapefruit. Tender, rich and wellbalanced<br />
in the mouth. Intensely fruity. Open at<br />
the table with grilled shellfish.<br />
http://www.henrynatter.fr Price: € 15.00<br />
Domaine Henri Natter +33 2 48 69 58 85<br />
MOULIN DES VRILLÈRES 90/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2021: Very pure, beautiful<br />
gold. Intense, appetising nose accented by ripe<br />
apple and tropical fruits. Gorgeous weight on<br />
the palate with fleshy, tangy, persistent flavours.<br />
This is a top-flight Sancerre.<br />
https://www.sancerre-online.com/fr/ Price: € 11.50<br />
Moulin des Vrillères +33 6 78 95 55 63<br />
MOULIN DES VRILLÈRES 90/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2020: Beautiful ruby.<br />
Incredible depth on the nose and remarkable<br />
quality fruit. The palate shows more of the<br />
same with a very clean attack and ripe red fruit<br />
aromas that take centre stage right through to<br />
the finish. This is the ultimate wine for pleasure.<br />
https://www.sancerre-online.com/fr/ Price: € 11.50<br />
Moulin des Vrillères +33 6 78 95 55 63<br />
PERLE BLANCHE 90/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2022: Beautiful clear light<br />
gold. Elegant nose showing mineral tones<br />
coupled with a dash of white fruit. The palate<br />
is gratifying and fresh and develops precise<br />
aromas where floral tones mesh with almond<br />
and ripe white fruits. Truly lovely.<br />
https://www.sancerre-online.com/fr/ Price: € 14.10<br />
Moulin des Vrillères +33 6 78 95 55 63<br />
VINEYARDS BELONGING TO DOMAINE PHILIPPE RAIMBAULT IN SURY-EN-VAUX.<br />
SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
107
GERMANY - IMPORTED WINES<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
GERMANY<br />
Our focus in this issue has turned<br />
to German wine companies whose<br />
dynamic mindset is illustrated in their<br />
sourcing skills. Buying wines from<br />
around the world for their domestic<br />
market, they offer a round-the-world<br />
tour of the wine arena, without leaving<br />
the country!<br />
AUSTRALIA (ALL REGIONS)<br />
SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA<br />
BROADLEAF 88/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2023<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 3.99<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
VALLE CENT RAL<br />
VALLE CENTRAL<br />
BROADLEAF 88/100<br />
D MERLOT 2023<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 3.99<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
BROADLEAF 87/100<br />
D SHIRAZ - CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2022<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 3.99<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
BROADLEAF 87/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2023<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 3.99<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
GEORGIA (ALL REGIONS)<br />
WINE OF GEORGIA<br />
PLW PAPALOVES WINE 93/100<br />
CR D TAOBA SAPERAVI 2021: Bright ruby<br />
colour with purple reflections. Discreet but<br />
promising nose combining black fruit, liquorice,<br />
fine spices and a mineral accent. Harmonious,<br />
silky and concentrated mouthfeel, with pure,<br />
delicious young aromas that linger for a long<br />
time. A fine wine.<br />
https://www.bedoba.wine/ Price: € 14.99<br />
PLW Papaloves Wine GmbH +49 211 540 80 685<br />
PLW PAPALOVES WINE 92/100<br />
CR D BEDOBA - ORANGE 2021: Bright gold<br />
colour with touches of orange. Seductive nose<br />
revealing yellow fruit, tangerine zest, honey<br />
and ivy. Less expansive but balanced and taut in<br />
the mouth, with minerality, spice and a hint of<br />
balsamic. Simple wine steeped in tradition.<br />
https://www.bedoba.wine/ Price: € 16.99<br />
PLW Papaloves Wine GmbH +49 211 540 80 685<br />
PLW PAPALOVES WINE 90/100<br />
CR D BEDOBA SAPERAVI 2021: Deep garnetred<br />
colour. On the nose, a hint of wood comes<br />
through, with spices and fruit undertones. More<br />
charm in the mouth, where the fruit is more<br />
forthcoming in a virile, lively whole that still<br />
needs time to reveal its depth. For cellaring.<br />
https://www.bedoba.wine/ Price: € 14.99<br />
PLW Papaloves Wine GmbH +49 211 540 80 685<br />
KAKHETI<br />
PLW PAPALOVES WINE 91/100<br />
D BEDOBA SAPERAVI 2020: Deep garnet,<br />
purple rim. Complex bouquet of red fruit,<br />
cocoa and spice, with smoky and toasted<br />
notes. Slimline, rich and ample on the palate<br />
with strong, juicy flavours and grainy tannin<br />
underneath. Full of vim, a superb wine.<br />
https://www.bedoba.wine/ Price: € 12.00<br />
PLW Papaloves Wine GmbH +49 211 540 80 685<br />
CAMPANIA<br />
CAMPANIA I.G.T.<br />
IL BUFALO ROSA 86/100<br />
D 2022<br />
https://www.enovative.de/en/ Price: € 9.99<br />
Enovative GmbH +49 711 490 52 270<br />
PUGLIA<br />
PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA D.O.C.<br />
RUBINAIA 87/100<br />
D 2022<br />
http://www.andreasoster.com Price: € 4.99<br />
Andreas Oster Weinkellerei +49 2671 60050<br />
SOUTH ISLAND<br />
MARLBOROUGH<br />
AOTEAROA 88/100<br />
D PINOT NOIR 2022<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: € 10.99<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
KUUMBA 90/100<br />
D PINOTAGE 2022: Deep garnet. Fullblown<br />
nose showing smoky and spicy notes,<br />
redcurrants and a touch of strawberries. Fullbodied<br />
and lively on the palate, with lots of<br />
unusual, tasty flavour. Already a charmer, a<br />
perfect match for grilled meats.<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: €3.49<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
KUUMBA 90/100<br />
D SHIRAZ 2022: Quite deep red, violet tints.<br />
Entrancing nose combining red fruit, mixed<br />
spice, touches of tar and acacia. Lovely smooth,<br />
ample feel on the palate, with full-blown, pure<br />
and persistant aromatics. An undemanding<br />
wine brimming with quality.<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: €3.49<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
KUUMBA 89/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2022<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: €3.49<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
KUUMBA 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einig-zenzen.html Price: €3.49<br />
Einig-Zenzen GmbH +49 2653 9907 24<br />
CATALUNYA<br />
CATALUNYA<br />
TORREHERMOSA 87/100<br />
D 2021<br />
https://www.enovative.de/en/ Price: € 6.99<br />
Enovative GmbH +49 711 490 52 270<br />
108 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY - BARBERA D’ASTI D.O.C.G. SUPERIORE<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
ITALY<br />
This quarter we take a closer look at<br />
some splendid pours from Piedmont.<br />
Be prepared to step off the well-trodden<br />
path of Barolo and Barbara and venture<br />
into Langhe, Monferrato, Nizza and<br />
Roero Arneis territory!<br />
PIEDMONT<br />
ALTA LANGA D.O.C.G.<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 90/100<br />
CR D BRUT ALTA LANGHA 2019: Brilliant,<br />
very pale colour with silver reflections.<br />
Pleasant nose combining grapefruit, apple<br />
and hawthorn. Well-balanced and seductively<br />
delicate mouthfeel, with intense, subtle aromas<br />
and a fine, rich effervescence. This wine has a lot<br />
going for it.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 18.50<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
ASTI D.O.C.G.<br />
DEZZANI 91/100<br />
D BARBERA 2022: Beautiful ruby colour,<br />
young appearance. Dapper on the palate,<br />
with hints of red fruit and a delicate woody<br />
undertone. Full-bodied and intensely aromatic<br />
with very demonstrative tannins. Italian charm<br />
at its best.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 9.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
ABBAZIA 88/100<br />
D DOLCE<br />
http://www.abbazia.com Price: € 4.60<br />
Abbazia di San Gaudenzio +39 01 41 84 08 08<br />
BARBARESCO D.O.C.G.<br />
COLLINA SERRAGRILLI 95/100<br />
CONV D STARDERI 2020: Medium-deep<br />
garnet, amber rim. Captivating nose of red berry<br />
fruit, fine spice, hints of menthol and scrubland.<br />
Very harmonious, ripe and ample on the palate,<br />
an authentic, unwavering wine, still immature<br />
but already remarkable. Well done!<br />
http://www.serragrilli.it Price: € 31.00<br />
Collina Serragrilli +39 0173 67 70 10<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 93/100<br />
CR D 2020: Pale garnet colour with amber<br />
reflections. Inviting nose combining heather, red<br />
fruit, hints of coffee and earth. Airy mouthfeel,<br />
a velvety, rich wine wrapped in harmonious<br />
traditional oak. Nothing superfluous, a great<br />
delicacy, bravo!<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 19.90<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
DEZZANI 92/100<br />
D 2021: Light red colour with tile-like tints.<br />
Highly engaging, fully bloomed nose where<br />
jammy fruit mingle with hints of precious wood.<br />
Broad attack on the palate, with a highly fragrant<br />
evolution displaying the same seductive aromas.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 22.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
BARBERA D’ALBA D.O.C.<br />
COLLINA SERRAGRILLI 91/100<br />
CONV D GRILLAIA 2019: Deep garnet.<br />
Generous nose of red fruit and subtle toasted,<br />
mentholated and spicy notes over a wood<br />
backdrop. Ample and structured palate, already<br />
delectable despite its still-apparent woody<br />
structure. Superbly delineated flavours, great<br />
tannic finesse.<br />
http://www.serragrilli.it Price: € 15.00<br />
Collina Serragrilli +39 0173 67 70 10<br />
FONTANFREDDA 90/100<br />
D RAIMONDA 2021: Deep red, youthful and<br />
gleaming. Appealing nose of red and black berry<br />
fruit. Well-crafted palate perfectly combining<br />
substance, flavour and acidity. A complete,<br />
accomplished offering to serve alongside red<br />
meats and grills.<br />
http://www.fontanafredda.it Price: € 16.00<br />
Fontanafredda +39 0173 62 61 11<br />
BARBERA D’ASTI D.O.C.G.<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 92/100<br />
CR D 50 VIGNE VECCHIE 2021: Deep<br />
garnet-red colour with less evolved reflections.<br />
Complex, smoky, mineral nose with red fruit<br />
undertones. Silky and rich on the palate,<br />
carried by a well-adjusted freshness. Not yet<br />
fully developed, but the peak is in sight. A<br />
magnificent prospect.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 12.90<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
CORDARA 91/100<br />
CR D NAMASTè 2020: Deep garnet-red,<br />
amber glints. Inviting nose combining red<br />
fruit, dead leaves, delicate animal and roasted<br />
notes. Beautifully concentrated and rich on the<br />
palate, with lively aromas. A sprightly style with<br />
exemplary persistence. A great quality vintage.<br />
http://www.cordara.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Cordara +39 0141 76 21 76<br />
PO<strong>GG</strong>IO RIDENTE 90/100<br />
ORG D VALLÌA 2022: Deep ruby colour.<br />
Intense nose of stone fruit with a discreet woody<br />
and spicy note. A fleshy, expressive attack on the<br />
palate, with polished tannins. The aromas carry<br />
through easily to the fresh, lingering finish.<br />
http://www.poggioridente.it Price: € 10.00<br />
Poggio Ridente +39 0141 90 78 08<br />
VERMOUTH DI TORINO 90/100<br />
CR D ROSSO 2019: Clear garnet colour with<br />
amber tints. Generous nose combining red fruit<br />
and aromatic herbs. Velvety, smooth and rich<br />
with great elegance combining its lovely herbal<br />
fragrances with an invigorating bitterness. A<br />
lovely vermouth.<br />
https://www.idivini.org/ Price: € 23.50<br />
Idivini +39 3479 29 93 47<br />
BARBERA D’ASTI D.O.C.G.<br />
SUPERIORE<br />
CORDARA 93/100<br />
CR D COSTA DEL SOLE 2016: Deep garnetred<br />
colour, evolution reflections. Captivating<br />
nose combining red fruit, fine roasted and spicy<br />
notes, menthol and a touch of dried plants.<br />
Silky, elegant and rich on the palate, a solid style<br />
with magnificent aromas. A benchmark wine.<br />
http://www.cordara.com Price: € 17.00<br />
Cordara +39 0141 76 21 76<br />
CORDANA 92/100<br />
CR D KALI 2016: Clear garnet colour, amber<br />
reflections. Complex nose combining red fruit,<br />
menthol, aromatic plants and subtle wood. The<br />
palate is highly fragrant, saline and spicy, with<br />
a suave frame of grainy tannins and a lingering<br />
finish that leaves you spellbound.<br />
http://www.cordara.com Price: € 13.00<br />
Cordara +39 0141 76 21 76<br />
PO<strong>GG</strong>IO RIDENTE 92/100<br />
ORG D SAN SEBASTIANO 2021: Dark red<br />
colour with youthful glints. A very pleasant,<br />
complex nose of macerated fruit, spices and<br />
precious woods. Lovely structure on the palate,<br />
with ripe, polished tannins and unrestrained<br />
aromas. A wine only beginning to express itself.<br />
http://www.poggioridente.it Price: € 15.00<br />
Poggio Ridente +39 0141 90 78 08<br />
SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
109
ITALY - BAROLO D.O.C.G.<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
A VILLAGE SURROUNDED BY VINEYARDS IN THE BAROLO REGION.<br />
SOTTO LA LUNA 92/100<br />
D 2019: Fairly deep red, slight development.<br />
Intriguing nose revealing chocolate and mineral<br />
notes with touches of graphite and meat.<br />
Very velvety on the palate, a wine of delicate<br />
substance with a lingering, aromatic finish.<br />
Recommended.<br />
https://www.idivini.org/ Price: € 21.50<br />
Idivini +39 3479 29 93 47<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 91/100<br />
CR D I TRE VESCOVI 2021: Deep garnet-red<br />
colour. Fairly discreet nose combining red fruit,<br />
spicy, floral and balsamic notes. On the palate,<br />
a suave vintage of great tenderness, a superbly<br />
intense flavour, discreet tannins. A marvel to be<br />
left to mature.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 9.30<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
CASALI DEL BARONE 90/100<br />
ORG D 150+1 2021: Youthful ruby red colour.<br />
On the nose, a fine smoky-grilled woodiness<br />
with aromas of ripe red fruits. The mouth is<br />
racy and taut. The silky touch, sweet tannins<br />
and aromatic length leave an extremely mouthwatering<br />
finish. A well-rounded, delicate wine.<br />
http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 12.00<br />
Schenk Italia +39 0471 80 33 11<br />
BAROLO D.O.C.G.<br />
DEZZANI 94/100<br />
D 2020: Clear garnet colour with hints of<br />
amber. Fine racy nose offering heather, mocha,<br />
and an earthy note alongside red fruit and<br />
spices. Light on the palate, generous and lively,<br />
supported by a fine traditional ageing process. A<br />
superb vintage to lay down.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 27.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 94/100<br />
CR D 2019: Light red colour, garnet<br />
reflections. Woody nose of delicate mocha,<br />
liquorice, sweet spices and stewed red and black<br />
fruit. Fleshy, round mouthfeel, elegantly and<br />
carefully matured. Plenty of tannins. Beautiful<br />
final tension. Enticing youthful character.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 26.90<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
ARIONE 92/100<br />
CR D CONTESSA DI CASTIGLIONE 2018:<br />
Clear amber colour with orange tints. Racy<br />
nose combining scents of heather, dried fruit<br />
and roasted notes. Silky, ample, greedy palate<br />
combining freshness and delicacy, superb depth<br />
and saline evolution. A fine terroir wine to keep.<br />
http://www.arione.it Price: € 13.80<br />
Arione +39 0141 82 31 72<br />
LA BIOCA 92/100<br />
D ACULEI 2019: Garnet with amber tints.<br />
Complex nose revealing red berry fruit, aromatic<br />
plants, moss and an earthy note. Nervy, ample<br />
and taut on the palate, nicely concentrated, with<br />
barrel-ageing still in evidence. A distinguished<br />
wine that merits our patience.<br />
http://www.labioca.it Price: € 32.00<br />
La Biòca +39 0173 61 30 22<br />
COLLINE NOVARESI D.O.C.<br />
LA PIEMONTINA 88/100<br />
CR D VESPOLINA 2020<br />
https://lapiemontina.com/eng Price: € 21.00<br />
La Piemontina +39 0163 32 65 44<br />
GAVI D.O.C.G. O CORTESE DI<br />
GAVI D.O.C.G.<br />
LA SCOLCA 91/100<br />
D GAVI DEI GAVI 2019: Dazzling golden<br />
yellow colour. Engaging nose of exotic fruit,<br />
dried herbs with a hint of balsamic. Airy and<br />
lively on the palate, generously coated with<br />
luscious flavours. Develops with fine creamy and<br />
spicy touches. Precise and delicate.<br />
https://www.lascolca.net Price: € 29.50<br />
La Scolca +39 0143 68 21 76<br />
BINÉ 90/100<br />
CONV D 2022: Pale golden yellow, green<br />
tints. Pleasant nose of white-flesh and citrus<br />
fruit, with floral and spicy touches. Lively and<br />
taut on entry, with acidulous notes on the palate<br />
and a refreshing bitter note on the finish. A<br />
delight with grilled fish or seafood.<br />
https://www.bine.wine/ Price: € 14.50<br />
Biné +39 01 43 74 32 15<br />
LA BOLLINA 90/100<br />
D 2022: Bright pale gold, green tints.<br />
Captivating nose combining floral, grapefruit<br />
and tropical-fruit notes. Smooth on the tongue<br />
110 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY - NIZZA D.O.C.G.<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
with very eloquent and clear-cut flavour in an<br />
ample, vivacious setting. Continues and ends on<br />
a pronounced floral note. Superb.<br />
http://www.labollina.it Price: € 9.00<br />
La Bollina +39 0143 61 984<br />
LA SCOLCA 90/100<br />
D GAVI DEI GAVI 2022: Sparkling light<br />
yellow colour. Fresh fruit on the nose (peach,<br />
pear, apple) with a floral undertone. Elegant,<br />
supple and tender mouthfeel, with delicate fruit<br />
and fine bitters on the finish. A precise, long,<br />
lingering white.<br />
https://www.lascolca.net Price: € 21.00<br />
La Scolca +39 0143 68 21 76<br />
SAN MATTEO 88/100<br />
D 2022<br />
http://www.cantinasanmatteo.it Price: € 13.00<br />
Azienda Agricola San Matteo di Diotti Massimo +39<br />
0173 36 36 67<br />
GHEMME D.O.C.G.<br />
LA PIEMONTINA 92/100<br />
CR D 2018: Light ruby colour with tile-red<br />
tints. Delicate, open nose, combining jammy red<br />
fruit, delicate notes of moss and undergrowth.<br />
The palate is seductive with its airy fullness,<br />
delicate texture coated with fat, and aromatic<br />
finesse. A superb wine.<br />
https://lapiemontina.com/eng Price: € 27.00<br />
La Piemontina +39 0163 32 65 44<br />
LANGHE D.O.C.<br />
DEZZANI 92/100<br />
D NEBBIOLO 2022: Clear garnet-red<br />
colour. Inviting nose combining red fruit with<br />
delightful herbal and spicy scents. Juicy and ripe<br />
mouthfeel, revealing a touch of aromatic herbs.<br />
Well-structured, lively and full of character, an<br />
extremely enjoyable wine.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 11.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
CASALI DEL BARONE 91/100<br />
D NEBBIOLO 2021: Light red colour with<br />
garnet glints. Delicate toasted woody nose<br />
backed by cherry, blackcurrant and plum notes.<br />
Supple on the palate, a well-matured wine<br />
offering a silky texture, lacy tannins and a bright<br />
fruity expression. A tantalizing Nebbiolo.<br />
http://www.schenkitalia.it/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Schenk Italia +39 0471 80 33 11<br />
COLLINA SERRAGRILLI 91/100<br />
CONV D PINOT NERO 2019: Beautiful<br />
garnet red color, slightly evolved reflections.<br />
Nose of candied cherries, touches of white<br />
pepper. Exquisite and delicious attack in the<br />
mouth, on the fruit, consistent with the nose.<br />
A harmoniously balanced wine revealing fine<br />
bitters on the finish. Fine ensemble.<br />
http://www.serragrilli.it Price: € 15.00<br />
Collina Serragrilli +39 0173 67 70 10<br />
FONTANFREDDA 90/100<br />
D EBBIO 2022: Bright pale ruby. Very<br />
engaging nose of red fruit with a whiff of pepper<br />
in the background. Direct and fruit-driven on<br />
the palate, medium-bodied with soft, melted<br />
tannin. A very drinkable wine to accompany<br />
grilled meats.<br />
http://www.fontanafredda.it Price: € 18.00<br />
Fontanafredda +39 0173 62 61 11<br />
VINCHIO - VAGLIO SERRA 90/100<br />
CR D LA CASINERA BIB 3 L 2022: Bright<br />
pale gold colour. Pleasant nose revealing yellow<br />
plums, grapefruit and blackcurrant buds. Lovely,<br />
light, sapid palate developing floral and spicy<br />
notes. Evolves beautifully, offering harmony and<br />
persistence.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 13.90<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
BOSIO 89/100<br />
D BOSCHI DEI SIGNORI 2022<br />
http://www.bosiovini.it Price: € 7.50<br />
Bosio S.r.l. +39 0141 84 71 49<br />
MONFERRATO D.O.C.<br />
DEZZANI 91/100<br />
D NEBBIOLO 2022: Bright garnet-red<br />
colour, with a few tile-red tints. Engaging nose<br />
combining red fruit, notes of heather and spices.<br />
Very elegant on the palate, with a silky feel and<br />
intense juvenile aromas bathed in harmonious<br />
freshness. Firm, persistent finish.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 11.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
FAVOR DËL DEMÒNI 90/100<br />
CR D 2020: Ruby-red colour with tilered<br />
tints. Pleasant, complex nose, combining<br />
mineral and spicy tones with hints of leather and<br />
tobacco. The mouth seduces with its delicacy and<br />
precision, as well as its substance and aromatic<br />
precision. A superb cuvée.<br />
https://www.idivini.org/ Price: € 18.80<br />
Idivini +39 3479 29 93 47<br />
LA BOLLINA 89/100<br />
D TINETTA 2022<br />
http://www.labollina.it Price: € 9.00<br />
La Bollina +39 0143 61 984<br />
MOSCATO D’ASTI D.O.C.G.<br />
DEZZANI 92/100<br />
D 2022: Crystal-clear, with thick mousse.<br />
Attractive nose of vineyard peaches, tropicalfruit<br />
notes and honeysuckle. Graceful palate,<br />
quite sweet, with vivifying acidity boosting its<br />
fruit. Brimming over with flavour, a delightful<br />
wine.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 9.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
ABBAZIA 89/100<br />
D 2022<br />
http://www.abbazia.com Price: € 4.25<br />
Abbazia di San Gaudenzio +39 01 41 84 08 08<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 88/100<br />
CR D VALAMASCA 2022<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 7.30<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
NIZZA D.O.C.G.<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 93/100<br />
CR D LAUDANA 2020: Fairly deep colour,<br />
reflections leaning towards garnet. Nose of<br />
smoky wood, delicate toast, spices and bright<br />
black fruit. Depth and aromatic complexity on<br />
the palate. The woodiness melts into the spicy,<br />
fruity texture with fine tannins. A superb wine.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 14.90<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
BERSANO 92/100<br />
D RISERVA GENERALA 2018: Fairly deep<br />
red tinged with garnet-ruby. Delicate toasted,<br />
smoky oakiness melds with jammy red and<br />
black fruits on the nose along with subtle spice<br />
presence. The palate is warm yet very energetic,<br />
with racy tannins and restrained heat. Shows<br />
definite ageability.<br />
http://www.bersano.it Price: € 30.50<br />
Bersano Vini S.p.A. +39 0141 72 02 11<br />
DEZZANI 92/100<br />
D 2021: Deep garnet-red colour. Generous<br />
nose of red fruit, mocha, fine spices and an<br />
earthy note. Rich, full-bodied on the palate,<br />
with more discreet aromas and a very elegant<br />
structure. A lively, flavoursome vintage only<br />
starting to showcase its potential.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 14.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
111
ITALY - PIEMONTE D.O.C.<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
LA PATAREINA 92/100<br />
CONV D LE REISS 2020: Deep garnet colour<br />
with some amber reflections. Generous nose<br />
combining red fruits, dark chocolate and dried<br />
herbs. The palate is racy, slender and ample<br />
offering superb intensity, combining grainy<br />
tannins and welcome freshness. A very fine<br />
ensemble.<br />
https://www.lapatareina.it/en/home-english/ Price: € 25.00<br />
La Patareina +39 3299 32 86 60<br />
BERSANO 90/100<br />
D CREMOSINA 2020: Rather deep red,<br />
ruby-brown reflections. Ripe red and black<br />
fruit on the nose, with floral notes, sweet spices<br />
and dried herbs. On the palate, beautifully<br />
concentrated tannins, coating texture and<br />
expressive fruit. Devoid of sluggishness.<br />
http://www.bersano.it Price: € 16.50<br />
Bersano Vini S.p.A. +39 0141 72 02 11<br />
PIEMONTE D.O.C.<br />
DEZZANI 92/100<br />
D NEBBIOLO BARBERA 2022: Clear garnetred<br />
colour. Racy nose combining red fruit,<br />
Morello cherry, heather, and hints of toast and<br />
spice. Delicious young, pure and intense aromas<br />
on the palate, expressed in a lively structure<br />
supported by seductively delicate tannins.<br />
Superb wine.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 11.00<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
ENZO BARTOLI 91/100<br />
D 2022: Bright, quite full pink. Refined,<br />
engaging nose juxtaposing a mineral aspect<br />
with rose petal fragrance. Shows great finesse<br />
and subtlety on the palate, a refreshing, taut<br />
blend which will work wonders with raw fish.<br />
http://www.mondodelvino.com Price: € 11.90<br />
MGM Mondo Del Vino +39 0173 63 63 11<br />
FONTANFREDDA 91/100<br />
D BARBERA NEBBIOLO 2022: Beautiful<br />
deep ruby colour. Rich, expressive nose, with<br />
black fruits mingling with spices and cocoa.<br />
Same depth and elegance in the mouth. A young<br />
wine, with great promise, worth waiting for.<br />
http://www.fontanafredda.it Price: € 30.00<br />
Fontanafredda +39 0173 62 61 11<br />
BINÉ 90/100<br />
CONV D PRIMO OTTOBRE 2020: Deep<br />
ruby red, purple tints, very viscous. Compelling<br />
nose of black and red berry fruit, pepper and<br />
liquorice. Powerful and silky attack leading into<br />
a palate full of fresh, sunny flavour, concluding<br />
with an exquisite finish framed with fresh<br />
tannin.<br />
https://www.bine.wine/ Price: € 17.50<br />
Biné +39 01 43 74 32 15<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 90/100<br />
CR D COSTE SARACENE BIB 3 L 2022: Light<br />
garnet-red, amber reflections. Delicate nose of<br />
red fruit, notes of heather and flowers. Robust<br />
and rich on the palate, with ample, delicious<br />
fruit. Structured ensemble with a vegetal<br />
structure, finishing on a spicy note. A successful<br />
Piedmont.<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 13.50<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
BIOSO 88/100<br />
D TRUFFLE HUNTER LEDA 2021<br />
http://www.bosiovini.it Price: € 7.00<br />
Bosio S.r.l. +39 0141 84 71 49<br />
ROERO ARNEIS D.O.C.G.<br />
ARIONE 90/100<br />
CR D NERO ARNEIS 2022: Bright, light<br />
golden yellow colour. Pleasant nose revealing<br />
yellow plums, grapefruit and discreet pineapple.<br />
On the palate, a silky attack, a rich, fleshy wine<br />
with powerful, precise fragrances. Generous and<br />
worth discovering.<br />
http://www.arione.it Price: € 4.68<br />
Arione +39 0141 82 31 72<br />
DEZZANI 90/100<br />
D 2023: Pale golden yellow colour.<br />
Delightful nose combining yellow fruit, peach<br />
and dried herbs. Invigorating and generous<br />
mouthfeel, unashamedly displaying its luscious<br />
fruity fragrances. A fine, precise and persistent<br />
wine, best served with grilled fish.<br />
http://www.dezzani.it Price: € 12.50<br />
Dezzani +39 0141 90 70 44<br />
ROERO D.O.C.G.<br />
VINCHIO VAGLIO 88/100<br />
CR D FRUSTÉ 2022<br />
http://www.vinchio.com Price: € 9.60<br />
Vinchio - Vaglio Serra +39 0141 95 09 03<br />
RUCHE DI CASTAGNOLE<br />
MONFERRATO D.O.C.G.<br />
PO<strong>GG</strong>IO RIDENTE 88/100<br />
ORG D SAN MARZIANO 2022<br />
http://www.poggioridente.it Price: € 14.00<br />
Poggio Ridente +39 0141 90 78 08<br />
VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ<br />
THE PERFECT SPOT FOR A TASTING WITH BREATH-TAKING VISTAS AT PO<strong>GG</strong>IO RIDENTE.<br />
ITINERA 90/100<br />
D BRUT BLANC DE NOIR : Bright, pale<br />
straw-gold colour. Pleasant nose of white flowers<br />
and yellow stone fruit. Light on the palate with<br />
clean, crisp flavours, lively and refreshing, with<br />
a hint of the exotic (pineapple, peach). A pleasant<br />
sparkling wine for convivial occasions.<br />
http://www.mondodelvino.com Price: € 8.99<br />
MGM Mondo Del Vino +39 0173 63 63 11<br />
112 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA - SWARTLAND - PIKETBERG<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Situated in the Western Cape, the<br />
Swartland has been a wine region<br />
since the mid-20th century. Its most<br />
widespread grape varieties – Chenin<br />
and Syrah – produce some extremely<br />
interesting wines<br />
WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL<br />
REGION<br />
SWARTLAND<br />
ALLESVERLOREN 93/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Dark<br />
ruby brick. Tea leaf and tomato leaf on the spicy<br />
nose. Dark berry on the sour cherry palate with<br />
a hint of leather and spice on the aftertaste. Dry<br />
and grainy tannin on the lengthy and full finish.<br />
Drink through 2030<br />
https://www.allesverloren.co.za/ Price: R 175<br />
Allesverloren Wine Estate +27 22 461 2320<br />
GENTIS 93/100<br />
D BADLANDS SHIRAZ 2022: Dark purple.<br />
Bramble and mulberry on the dark chocolate<br />
and jammy nose. Red cherry and blackberry on<br />
the full and rich palate. A big wine, made to age.<br />
Drink through 2030.<br />
https://www.thorvintners.com/ Price: € 14.00<br />
Thor Vintners +27 72 238 1703<br />
RAAR 93/100<br />
D SKIN CONTACT CHENIN BLANC 2023:<br />
Yellow straw. Dried fruit nose with apricot and<br />
quince. Full and rich on the palate with a pithy<br />
and slightly tart note on the rich aftertaste.<br />
Clean and crisp on the lengthy finish. Drink<br />
through 2030.<br />
http://www.riebeekcellars.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Riebeek Valley Wines +27 22 448 1213<br />
GENTIS 92/100<br />
D THE PHOENIX 2022: Dark ruby purple.<br />
Mulberry jam and dark berry on the rich nose.<br />
Full and grippy on the tart palate with a juicy<br />
and elegant texture on the rhubarb finish. Made<br />
to age. Drink through 2030.<br />
https://www.thorvintners.com/ Price: € 25.00<br />
Thor Vintners +27 72 238 1703<br />
LEEUWENKUIL 92/100<br />
CR D RESERVE RED 2019: Ruby brick.<br />
Smoky and leathery on the red berry nose.<br />
Palate is smoky and leathery with a tartness<br />
and cranberry fruit note on the aftertaste.<br />
Developed, but still in its youth. Drink through<br />
2029.<br />
https://www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards +27 84 510 1265<br />
LEEUWENKUIL 92/100<br />
CR D RESERVE WHITE 2022: Yellow straw.<br />
Stone fruit and marmalade and pineapple on<br />
the rich nose. Full and creamy on the palate<br />
with some vanilla from gentle oak. Layered and<br />
creamy on the lengthy aftertaste. Drink through<br />
2030.<br />
https://www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards +27 84 510 1265<br />
KASTEELBERG 91/100<br />
D SYRAH 2023: Ruby garnet. Spicy and<br />
leathery nose with red berry notes. Grippy and<br />
full on the palate with a leathery note on the<br />
spicy finish. Complex and rich. Made to age.<br />
Drink through 2029.<br />
http://www.riebeekcellars.com Price: € 14.00<br />
Riebeek Valley Wines +27 22 448 1213<br />
KNOLFONTEIN 91/100<br />
D CHENIN BLANC 2022: Yellow straw. Ripe<br />
nose with stone fruit and dried apricot. Yellow<br />
fruit and stone fruit on the rich palate with a hint<br />
of cantelope on the tangy aftertaste. Creamy and<br />
textured. Drink through 2029.<br />
http://www.knolfonteinwines.co.za Price: R 120<br />
Knolfontein Wines +27 71 612 1432<br />
KNOLFONTEIN 90/100<br />
D CINSAUT 2021: Light garnet. Cinnamon<br />
and spice on the leathery nose. Sour cherry and<br />
cranberry on the palate with a light sherbet note<br />
on the aftertaste. Layered and interesting. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
http://www.knolfonteinwines.co.za Price: R 200<br />
Knolfontein Wines +27 71 612 1432<br />
RAAR 90/100<br />
D SHIRAZ CARBONIC MACERATION 2023:<br />
Purple garnet. Violets and red berry fruit on the<br />
perfumed nose. Very smooth and elegant on the<br />
palate with a grippy and slightly leathery note on<br />
the lengthy finish. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.riebeekcellars.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Riebeek Valley Wines +27 22 448 1213<br />
KNOLFONTEIN 89/100<br />
D SHIRAZ 2021<br />
http://www.knolfonteinwines.co.za Price: R 300<br />
Knolfontein Wines +27 71 612 1432<br />
LEEUWENKUIL 89/100<br />
D ROSÉ 2023<br />
https://www.leeuwenkuilfv.co.za/ Price: € 5.00<br />
Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards +27 84 510 1265<br />
EMILE GENTIS IN HIS SWARTLAND VINEYARDS..<br />
NATIVO 89/100<br />
ORG D TEMPRANILLO DESTEMMED 2023<br />
http://www.nativo.co.za Price: € 18.00<br />
Hughes Family Wines +27 83 270 2457<br />
ORG DE RAC 88/100<br />
ORG D SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
MERLOT 2023<br />
http://www.orgderac.co.za/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Org de Rac +27 22 913 2397<br />
WIND SONG 88/100<br />
D CAPE BLEND 2022<br />
https://www.thorvintners.com/ Price: € 20.00<br />
Thor Vintners +27 72 238 1703<br />
NATIVO 86/100<br />
ORG D TEMPRANILLO WHOLE BUNCH<br />
2023<br />
http://www.nativo.co.za Price: € 18.00<br />
Hughes Family Wines +27 83 270 2457<br />
SWARTLAND - PIKETBERG<br />
ORG DE RAC 87/100<br />
ORG D LA VERNE CAP CLASSIQUE 2020<br />
http://www.orgderac.co.za/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Org de Rac +27 22 913 2397<br />
ORG DE RAC 86/100<br />
ORG D LA VERNE CAP CLASSIQUE 2022<br />
http://www.orgderac.co.za/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Org de Rac +27 22 913 2397<br />
SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
113
SOUTH AMERICA - SPARKLING WINES<br />
OUR SPRING SELECTION<br />
SOUTH AMERICA<br />
Here’s a topic that has probably never<br />
been written about – sparkling wines<br />
from South America. Although they<br />
include some interesting offerings,<br />
particularly in Argentina, they remain<br />
under-the-radar. But whether they<br />
come from Argentina, Uruguay or even<br />
Ecuador, they are certainly well worth<br />
exploring.<br />
ARGENTINA<br />
MENDOZA<br />
MENDOZA<br />
DOMAINE BOUSQUET 94/100<br />
ORG D MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE BRUT<br />
: Intense yellow colour with golden reflections,<br />
fine and slow releasing bubbles. The nose<br />
expresses ageing characteristics with notes<br />
of brioche, toast and white fruit. The palate is<br />
engaging and consistently expressive, guided by<br />
an elegant structure.<br />
https://domainebousquet.com/ Price: € 22.22<br />
Domaine Bousquet +54 2622 480 000<br />
DOMAINE BOUSQUET 84/100<br />
ORG D BRUT<br />
https://domainebousquet.com/ Price: € 11.11<br />
Domaine Bousquet +54 2622 480 000<br />
MENDOZA, MAIPÚ<br />
COQUIMBITO<br />
SAN FELIPE 85/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT 2023<br />
https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 8.50<br />
Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013<br />
MENDOZA, TUPUNGATO<br />
GUALTALLARY<br />
RUTINI COLECCION 94/100<br />
D BRUT NATURE 2021: Bright golden yellow<br />
in colour, with a lively stream of fine bubbles.<br />
The nose shows its ageing with aromas of<br />
pastries, dried fruit and a floral touch. Ample<br />
on the palate with a balanced acidity. Constantly<br />
expresses elegance through the finish.<br />
https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 29.00<br />
Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013<br />
CRUZAT 93/100<br />
CR D NATURE 2022: Pale yellow colour<br />
with steely hints. The nose is expressive and<br />
engaging, with aromas of dried peach, citrus<br />
and toast. The palate is elegant, with a fine<br />
structure, creamy and persistent bubbles.<br />
Aromas of ageing accompany the long finish.<br />
http://www.bodegacruzat.com Price: € 17.70<br />
Bodega Cruzat +54 261 562 03 90<br />
RUTINI COLECCION 93/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT 2021: Intense, bright yellow<br />
colour, with fine, constant bubbles. An elegant<br />
nose, with aromas of flowers, citrus peel and<br />
apricots. The foam on the palate is creamy and<br />
fresh at the same time. It has a great overall<br />
balance with an aromatic and refined finish.<br />
https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 20.00<br />
Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013<br />
91/100<br />
ORG D VINTAGE 2022: Bright, lively yellow<br />
colour. Ripe fruit aromas on the nose with a<br />
complex ageing profile. The palate reaffirms the<br />
style with notes of yeast, orange blossom water<br />
and dried fruits. The sweetness is balanced by a<br />
fresh acidity, giving a long finish.<br />
http://www.bodegacruzat.com Price: € 17.00<br />
Bodega Cruzat +54 261 562 03 90<br />
TRUMPETER 90/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT 2022: Bright pale yellow<br />
in colour with fine, constant bubbles. The nose<br />
is both complex and fruity, with subtle floral<br />
notes and hints of white fruit. The foam on the<br />
palate is creamy and balanced by its acidity. A<br />
persistent and fruity finish.<br />
https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013<br />
RUTINI ENCUENTRO 89/100<br />
D BRUT NATURE 2022<br />
https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 20.00<br />
Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013<br />
TRUMPETER 88/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT ROSE 2022<br />
https://bodegalarural.com.ar/home/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Bodega La Rural +54 (0261) 497 2013<br />
SAN JOSÉ<br />
PHILIPPE CARAGUEL 95/100<br />
D GRAND CUVÉE EXTRA BRUT 2021: Pale<br />
yellow in colour. The nose shows time on the lees<br />
with aromas of brioche, orange blossom water<br />
and white fruit. Creamy on the palate, guided<br />
by a fresh and balanced acidity. The finish is<br />
gripping, with a very subtle hint of quince.<br />
Price: € 22.00<br />
Philippe Caraguel<br />
TUPUNGATO<br />
SAUVAGE BLANC 86/100<br />
CONV D SAUVIGNON BLANC BRUT<br />
NATURE 2023<br />
http://donapaula.com/ Price: € 25.00<br />
Doña Paula +54 261 429 0741<br />
EQUATOR (ALL REGIONS)<br />
EQUATOR<br />
DOS HEMISFERIO DESTINO 91/100<br />
D METODO TRADICIONAL EXTRA BRUT<br />
2020: Intense golden yellow colour, with<br />
fine persistent bubbles. The nose is complex,<br />
expressing ageing and ripe fruit. The palate<br />
confirms the style with notes of orange blossom<br />
water, yeast and citrus peel. Long and fresh<br />
finish thanks to its lively acidity.<br />
Price: € 20.00<br />
Dos Hemisferios +593 97 988 2116<br />
URUGUAY<br />
URUGUAY ALL REGION<br />
VIÑA EDÉN 93/100<br />
D MÉTHODE CHAMPENOISE : Pale yellow<br />
with green hints. Very fine and persistent<br />
bubbles. On the nose it expresses aromas of<br />
ageing. Notes of pears, yeast and a very fine<br />
floral touch. Unctuous and elegant on the palate,<br />
guided by a fresh acidity. The finish is persistent.<br />
Price: € 11.11<br />
viña edén +598 441 03 841<br />
114 SPRING 2024 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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