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COMMUNITY continued from 45 er made it even harder. We hiked up the AT Hunt Trail in cool rain and fog, and came down the Abol Trail with sleet, adding a super-steep descent to our already challenging day. The next day I said goodbye to Kathy, and headed into the 100-Mile Wilderness, where I would be out of touch for up to eight days. The Trail – The AT is the best marked trail I’ve ever been on. There are incredible views and scary exposed places in all 14 states. My favorites were Clingmans Dome in North Carolina, Mount Lafayette in New Hampshire, and McAfee Knob on Catawba Mountain in Virginia, and lots of great lakes, rivers and streams. It’s got miles and miles of fast smooth terrain, and it also has some stuff that is crazy steep, and needs to be climbed up and down with care. I had some places where I could run for five miles and others where I was lucky to go one-mile per hour. It was fantastic when I would climb for what seemed like hours, and then find that the top of the mountain had incredible views. I also had times with snow and ice, no view, and poor trail conditions. They did not put the modern AT on easy terrain. The People – The people were the best part of the AT. We were on-trail for our own reasons and we had different paths in life that led us to the trail. We were all moving with one goal in mind, to thruhike the AT. We shared the dream of a big physical and mental/emotional challenge, and of seeing the legendary views of the Appalachians. Real bonds form faster on the trail than I anticipated. My trail family, especially Pacer and Swiss, will be part of me forever. I met thousands of people, especially when NOBO. There were retirees, high school and college grads, people between jobs, and those recovering from hard stuff. I felt very safe and found that we were willing to help each other with food, supplies, phone charges and toilet paper. As they say on the trail, the trail provides. “Trail Angels” are those who do special acts of kindness on the trail. It might be food at a road crossing, a ride into town for resupply or a cooler with beer, water and snacks at a trailhead. “Hiker hunger” is a term used for the level of insane hunger hikers feel as they push themselves day after day. I had to take in 5,000+ calories daily just to maintain my energy and not lose too much weight. Water filtration and hydrating with electrolyte drinks is also important. I was usually going through three-to-six liters a day, not including the water in my breakfast and dinner. The hostels were one of the best parts ■ DIVING SWAN AT THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT KATAHDIN, MAINE. of the trail. Trail towns usually have a few hostels where you can rest, shower, eat and resupply. They are in sheds, old garages, nice lodges and the homes of trail angels. Each hostel has its own vibe and character. I met folks who have been doing it for decades and others who are just starting out. The Joys and Beauty – I loved the people! When I started, I found that we were all bonded by our anxiety and excitement. The bonds formed during the first several weeks would be lifelong. My trail family formed quickly. We would share our stories, dreams, fears and histories, and we would laugh, joke and rejoice as we climbed mountains, passed our first 100 miles, and took care of each other when we were injured, hungry and cold. Even when we parted ways, we’d stay connected and support each other. I was also very lucky to have an old friend, Billy, meet me at Harpers Ferry both times, and celebrate the halfway and finish with me. The Hard Parts and Unexpected – The difficult parts are many and began before I even got on the trail. I knew it would be difficult to say goodbye to my wife, and it was. We were celebrating our 29th anniversary with friends just before starting and then I got Covid. I had to isolate myself from everyone until the night prior to starting in Georgia. I have a better idea now what it means that, “absence makes the heart grow fonder,” as my grandfather said about how he missed my grandmother when he was away during WWII. Hard and wonderful things happen when you least expect them. I was lucky enough to get a call from my daughter when she matched for residency and then again when she and her partner got ■ DIVING SWAN CELEBRATING AT MCAFEE KNOB, VIRGINIA. ■ US VETERAN/ITCHY FEET AND DIVING SWAN CELEBRATING AFTER COMPLETING THE DRAGONS TOOTH IN VIRGINIA. engaged. Unexpectedly, I learned that our Aunt Julie passed away. I got off trail to be with family to mourn and celebrate her life. While off-trail I was lucky enough to surprise my middle daughter when she arrived stateside from Army deployment. At one low point I had to confess to my daughter Ruby that I was not sure I would be able to finish the thru-hike. In terms of physical challenge, some of the hardest hiking I did was in Maine. After being off-trail for the summer, I started my southbound (SOBO) flip at Mount Katahdin. The weather was tough from the start. We had rain and sleet on top, and the Hundred Mile Wilderness and the rest of Maine, would prove to be very challenging and wet. The rain and muddy bogs kept my feet wet for weeks and I struggled to dry my socks, shoes and feet. Eventually I had to get off-trail due to “trench foot,” which is very painful and makes it hard to walk, and can escalate into an infection that can do permanent damage. I tried to take two days off to heal, but then reluctantly decided to get off-trail, and thought my hike might be over. I had to admit to myself that I might not finish my thru-hike. I was so sad and dejected and now knew what post-hike depression was about. I spent the next week healing and finally went for a trial overnight trip with my daughter, Caroline. We had a great trip with just a bit of rain. Thanks to Kathy for driving me, I was back in Maine the following weekend heading south again. MARCH <strong>2024</strong> 47 ■ CAROLINE SLYER BACKPACKING WITH DIVING SWAN IN MASSACHUSETTS. ■ MOUNT GREYLOCK, MASSACHUSETTS TRAIL, MAGIC, WITH SWISS AND OTHER THRU-HIKERS HEADING NORTH. The rest of Maine was challenging, but I had almost a full week without rain, and my self-doubt was fading. I would continue to be challenged by big mountains and cold weather through New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and beyond. I met very few SOBOs and hiked alone for the rest of the hike, which was tough. I love people and this was my longest time completely alone in my entire life. I got so caught up being alone that I began to count the white blaze trail markers. I’d give myself prizes, call family, eat Sour Patch Kids, look at my watch for each 10, 50, 100 blazes. I did this for days until I got to 750 blazes in one day and I finally quit playing my mental game of Pac-Man. There were times when I wondered if I was crazy, and it got really hard to stay motivated when I was alone. Going up mountains, racing the sun to get to shelters to heat up water for dehydrated food, and sleeping alone in the cold was difficult. I am so glad that I made the hike about something more than my own dream. A few weeks before starting, I decided to raise money for the SkyHigh Adventure Center. The Sand Lake Kiwanis and Sand Lake Seniors made the initial $6,000 in pledges and donations before I even started. As I hiked, the donations kept coming in and we surpassed our goal of $22,000 before the end of 2023. Thank you to all of the donors. I’m not sure I would have finished if it had not been for them. See COMMUNITY 49 ▶
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