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WINEMAKER DAVID CHABOCHE AND MANAGING DIRECTOR<br />
ROMAIN LÉVÊCQUE TASTE STILL WINES AT CHAMPAGNE<br />
COLLERY<br />
A TRIP OUT TO THE VINEYARDS TO CHECK FRUIT<br />
RIPENESS BY CELLAR MASTER JULIEN LEFÈVRE AND<br />
MANAGING DIRECTOR ROMAIN LÉVÊCQUE<br />
dosage; the Blanc de Blancs is a true icon; the Blanc de Noirs is still unfamiliar;<br />
and the vintage has to reflect the unique weather conditions of that particular<br />
year”. All of them are made entirely from fruit sourced in Champagne Grands<br />
Crus vineyards. The wines are made by village, the rationale being complementarity,<br />
and the aim is to create a USP where all the mineral and fruity characters<br />
mesh with each other.<br />
CHAMPAGNE CHOOSES TERROIR AS A FOCAL POINT<br />
This is a fundamental trend. As consumers move upmarket, Champagne is no<br />
longer viewed solely as a drink for celebrations but increasingly as a pleasurable<br />
experience that has a strong connection with food. Against this backdrop, the<br />
unique labels have become extremely popular as quality spirals upwards. As<br />
virtually stand-alone offerings, they display their specific features, site-expressiveness<br />
and vintage characters as with any fine wine, through a specific and<br />
unique alchemy. The marketplace, particularly overseas, shows demand for<br />
products that are different, impeccably crafted and have a history created by<br />
the winery and the winemaker who makes them. Consumers are increasingly<br />
open to these quality wines driven by strong typicity and personality. Although<br />
prices are often higher due to increased production costs, this particular style of<br />
Champagne adds value to the vineyard sites, the work involved, experience and<br />
skills, whilst at the same time providing pleasure. This is a great illustration of<br />
how a region can ‘reinvent itself’, to use a popular current expression.<br />
WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
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