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TASTING TASTING<br />
RARE RARE BOTTLE BOTTLE<br />
93 / 100<br />
CHAMPAGNE<br />
MAURICE VESSELLE<br />
EXTRA BRUT GRAND CRU 2013<br />
Certified High Environmental Value since 2013, the vineyards are rooted in the<br />
southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The Pinot noir-dominant grapes<br />
for this label fully encapsulate the complexity of their 100% classified site. The<br />
house is a Montagne de Reims benchmark, renowned for its mature vintages<br />
and vinous, food-friendly Champagnes crafted by two passionate winegrowers.<br />
The house was created in 1955 by Maurice Vesselle. His two sons, Didier<br />
and Thierry, are now at its helm and pamper their nine hectares of vines<br />
in Bouzy and Tours-sur-Marne all year round, as generations of winegrowers<br />
have done before them. They use techniques such as tillage, hilling up,<br />
ploughing back and soil amendments that were long considered fanciful.<br />
However, their quest for depth in the soils is now the envy of many vineyards.<br />
By taking such a conscientious approach to loosening their soils, the Vesselle<br />
brothers not only encourage the Pinot noir and Chardonnay vines to put<br />
down long-lasting roots, thereby revealing the full complexity of their Bouzy<br />
vineyard sites, they also limit the effects of drought and avoid the use of<br />
herbicides.<br />
When work in the vineyard is complete, the two growers transition to<br />
winemakers to produce their range of Champagnes. This Extra-Brut Grand<br />
Cru 2013 label is blended from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. It is<br />
fermented without malolactic fermentation like all the winery’s bottlings,<br />
allowing the wine to fully retain its freshness and minerality. It is then<br />
matured on lees in the estate’s chalk cellars, alongside – primarily – its<br />
collection of vintage Champagnes, before Extra-brut dosage (4 grams) is<br />
added. This Grand Cru displays a pretty, bright yellow-gold hue. Its very pure,<br />
intense nose offers up a fusion of red fruits, peach and apricot notes. The<br />
palate reveals a mouth-filling attack with abundant freshness and intense,<br />
persistent aromas. This is a vintage at its very best. Once again, Didier and<br />
Thierry Vesselle have crafted a hallmark Champagne, full of verve, which sits<br />
nicely within the range alongside the Hauts Chemins or vintage offerings<br />
fully equipped to withstand the test of time. The philosophy here is plain<br />
for all to see, and that is to treat the vineyard sites of Bouzy with respect. A<br />
gastronomic Champagne pairing with chicken and morel mushrooms.<br />
SELECTED BY<br />
WINTER WINTER 2023 • 2023 GILBERT • GILBERT & GAILLARD & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH - THE FRENCH EXPERTS EXPERTS ON WINE ON WINE 31<br />
31