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LOIRE VALLEY<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
PASCALE AND ANTOINE VÉRON ON THE FREIGHT ELEVATOR<br />
They took over the family-run business in 1999 and now manage<br />
45 hectares of vines, “which are unique in that they are planted to<br />
42 hectares of Cabernet franc and 3 hectares of Chenin”. Alongside the<br />
two grape varieties there is now some Pinot noir and some Chardonnay<br />
to produce a special Crémant de Loire extra-brut label, which is new<br />
to the range. Véron admits that in this particular region, “Saumur-<br />
Champigny is the prime mover”, which explains why Cabernet franc<br />
is so widespread in their vineyards. However, our panel homed in on<br />
their 2021 white Saumur Les Aïeuls. “We did an initial pass for our<br />
traditional white, then a second one and did some light sorting, let’s<br />
say, on clay-limestone soils, with some more weight to produce slightly<br />
fatter wines”, explains winegrower Véron. The fruit then goes direct-topress<br />
and after fermenting in tanks for a little while, spends six months<br />
in 500-litre barrels, or demi-muids. Using this technique, “the wine<br />
stays dry but takes on a more oily, more structured side”. And if you’re<br />
concerned that the wine might be too oaky, there’s no need to panic:<br />
“The barrels are twice the size of a classic cask so there is a lot more<br />
wine than wood”, sums up Véron, pointing to more honeyed aromas.<br />
Down the years, this family-run winery has built up a loyal customer<br />
base which can continue to enjoy its wines’ good value for money.<br />
92 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE