Wine Review 2010

Lot # Wine Year M D Comment
Special Offering 42
3339 Chablis Premier Crus, 2003 8 9 Fabulous example of refined, classic, terroir influenced
“Les Fouchaumes” Chablis. There is never a huge level of “topicality” about the
Chardonnay fruit used for these wines, but it has poise, clean
mineral notes and length.
3346 Gevrey-Chambertin, Côtes de Nuits 2004 8 9 Rather tough and acerbic, even austere. The difficulty lies in
accessing the fruit, which appears to be hidden behind a layer
of stringy tannin. It is too good to recommend for cooking, but
proceed with caution. Use it with hot dishes, stews, casseroles
and have a different bottle in reserve.
3347 Nuits-Saint-Georges 2004 9 10 Time for this to hit the road. No real chance that it will
improve, and when last tasted, it was beginning to show fruit
deficiencies. It is still all right, but not great.
3354 - 3361
BEAUJOLAIS 2005 VINTAGE
The vintage and the preceding months were uncommonly hot, with temperatures reaching 35 degrees for 36 consecutive days. This
resulted in an early vintage with very big, unusually full-bodied wines from all the hillside villages among the “crus” of Beaujolais, wines
such as Fleurie, Brouilly, Julienas and others. These “village” wines are still in fine condition, but with diminishing tannin levels. The
depositing of sediment and loss of young vigour, it is time to drink them.
Cellar Offering 164
3383 Emina Prestigio 2003 9 9 One of the finest wines of the northern Spanish vineyards,
the spiritual home of the Tempranillo vine. The tannic grip
remains, although there is plenty of red berry fruit to soften
the harshness of any acidity. It is clearly a wine that will run
on, developing, maturing, broadening for several years to
come.
3384 Colegiata “4 Messes Barrica” 2004 9 9 One more example of Manuel Farina’s ability to coax every
nuance of complexity from his ripe Tempranillo grapes. This is
now ready, but it is truly a very fine wine.
3395 Via Aurelia Oak Aged Cabernet/Merlot 2003 9 9 This wine has matured well and harmoniously. It is now
soft with fruit that mingle with supple oak tannins to give a
structured edge to the palate, preventing it from losing
varietal character.
3406 – 3409
PORT WINES FROM CHURCHILL, GRAHAM LDA.
A general note can be found on page 4. However, their two deep rich and red Table wines (Lots 3406 and 3407), both from the
2003 vintage, are now mature and will bring the delight of the Douro sun into the glass.
3423 Gewürztraminer Réserve 2004 10 10 All the fruit from the greengrocer’s bench. Lychees, mangoes,
even peaches and ripe apples and pears. Lovely now, it wants
drinking within eighteen months.
3424 Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg 2004 10 10 Grand Crus are relatively rare in Alsace; this is from one of
the smaller, less famous sites. The Riesling of 2004 is
wonderful. Sharp as a pine needle. Rich in extract, metallic,
flinty and pure. A great wine.
3425 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Froehn 2003 8 8 A Gewürz needs time to establish its personality. This has
been taking place quietly over several years and it is now
perfectly mature. Grand Cru designation.
3428 Bodegas Fariña, Coupage Especial 2004 8 8 Fariña, the father of the Toro appellations, only makes
DO Toro, Founders’ Choice great wines. Although now ready, it has stamina, power
and great depth. A wine of surpassing quality.
Wine Review 2010