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Geoff Hardy <strong>Wine</strong>s Manuka Hill Chateau De Sours Lamblin Fils Sarl Bernard<br />
Churchill Graham Bodegas Concavins Cave Vinicole Hunawihr Paul Sapin S.A.<br />
ingut Hopler Azienda Agr. Villa Di Maser Agricole Rizzello Vinoma Chateau<br />
Mountain View X <strong>Wine</strong>ry Burgess Cellars Steltzner Vineyards Ironstone Vineyards<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong>
The <strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> as been designed as your guide for determining the best time to drink your Opimian wines.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s that have yet to reach their peak are listed in chronological order, ending with the most recently offered.<br />
Numerical values, representing the Maturity and Drinkability, are given to each wine, starting with wines from sturdy<br />
regions (or big vintages) with an assessment of around 5. Smaller wines intended for early drinking invariably are<br />
offered under higher numbers, up to 10. One of the purposes of this review is to bring numbers upwards towards the<br />
point where it is felt that the wines have become entirely mature and/or perfectly drinkable.<br />
What is Maturity & Drinkability?<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
The “M” represents the taster’s opinion of the wine when it is first tasted. It is solely intended to give an<br />
indication of the wine’s degree of maturity. 1 - 5 indicate a wine to lay down; 6 - 10 indicate the level of its<br />
maturity.<br />
The “D” represents the drinkability of the wine, the softness in the mouth, the balance of the components,<br />
the decline in the sharpness of acidity and tannin. 1 - 5 indicate a wine needs time; 6 - 10 indicate the wine’s<br />
progress towards the full maturity of the bouquet and flavours.<br />
As a general rule, wines with a M7 D7 are ready to start drinking. <strong>Wine</strong>s with lesser M & D numbers may be opened<br />
for sampling or for tracking the wine’s development towards it best period for enjoyment.<br />
Remember – err on the side of youth. It is better to consume your wines too young than to find a wine has<br />
deteriorated after years of waiting.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s that have reached their peak do not appear on this <strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong>.<br />
Members can access the M & D for all of their wines in their personal “<strong>Wine</strong> File” at www.opim.ca<br />
This review has been compiled for the past several years by Kenneth Christie, a Master of <strong>Wine</strong> based in Bristol, U.K.<br />
Kenneth has been the official consultant to Opimian since its inception. He feels that, after such a long period, he has<br />
acquired some knowledge of the Canadian palate, which has become increasingly demanding and knowledgeable<br />
over the years.<br />
Kenneth is unable to taste all wines shipped in past Cellar Offerings as no stock remains; however, where wines can<br />
be tasted from samples held for quality assurance purposes, they are tasted and their condition is applied, not only<br />
to that wine, but others from the same suppliers, regions or vintages. This review, started in early December, includes<br />
more than 500 bottles of wine, all tasted in the northern light of Ken’s kitchen. Therefore, the notes are largely<br />
contemporaneous and, we hope, useful to members for reference purposes.<br />
All opinions given in this review are Kenneth Christie’s; he does not suggest that all members will agree with<br />
everything written and, to further develop the accuracy of this review, welcomes comments from members.
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 116<br />
842 Churchill’s Vintage Port 1994 9 9 Continue to enjoy. It is fully ready, but it won’t be rolling over<br />
anytime soon.<br />
Special Offering 34<br />
CABERNET 1999 VINTAGE<br />
Any remaining will still be fine. They had tons of tannin that have never totally faded. However, the fruit is somewhat deficient.<br />
1713 Murphy Goode, Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 10 10 Wait no longer, or you risk it failing.<br />
1715 Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 10 10 Still delicious, but very different from when it was young.<br />
1716 Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 10 10 Steltzner puts so much fruit and tannin into his wines that<br />
they last well and long. Still not a problem in sight here.<br />
1717 Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 9 9<br />
Cellar Offering 142<br />
2164 Trockenbeerenauslese 2000 10 10 A year ago, we wrote that this is a wine to last a lifetime –<br />
it truly will do what we said.<br />
Special Offering 38<br />
1998 Château Lanessan 2000 10 10 Quite delicious, mature, vanilla, old leaves, but still very good.<br />
2294 La Source, Bordeaux [Wooden Case] 2000 9 10 One of the greatest examples of this wonderful special cuvée.<br />
Cellar Offering 146<br />
2377 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Gran Reserva<br />
2002 10 10 Drink up soon.<br />
2380 Casa Nueva Carmenère 2002 10 10 Great winemaker, great wine.<br />
2391 Cabernet Sauvignon, Gran Reserva 2000 10 10 A great wine. Shows that Chile can be up with the<br />
world’s finest wines, producing quality with stamina.<br />
2406 Gewürztraminer, Muehlforst 2000 10 10 Lucky the man with a few bottles of this to enjoy.<br />
2416 Domaine des Cigalons,<br />
Châteauneuf-du-Pape<br />
2001 10 10 Still showing remarkable life and longevity.<br />
Cellar Offering 147<br />
2422 Grüner Veltliner Eiswein 2001 10 10 Sensational wine. Shows the versatility of Grüner Veltliner<br />
when allowed to super-ripeness.<br />
2468 Burgess Zinfandel 2000 10 10 Time to bring this story to a close.<br />
2469 Burgess Syrah 2000 10 10 Mellow and very fine. If well stored, it has lots of life left.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 148<br />
BORDEAUX 2000 VINTAGE<br />
1993 Château de Sours Rouge 2000 9 9<br />
1997 Château Arnauld 2000 9 9<br />
1998 Château Lanessan 2000 9 9<br />
2484 Château Vieux Coutelin 2000 8 9<br />
2485 Allées de Cantemerle 2000 9 9<br />
2497 Château Lafon 2000 9 9<br />
2499 Château Colombier Monpelou 2000 8 9<br />
2504 La Source, Bordeaux 2001 9 9 It is time to open and use. Don’t wait any longer.<br />
2489 Fleur d’Or Sauternes 2001 9 10 Bill Blatch owns this brand. It is a sign of his skill and he is<br />
justly proud of how he brings small lots together in one<br />
outstanding blend.<br />
Special Offering 39<br />
2609 Quinta de Roriz, Reserva, Douro 2001 10 10 One of the first giants we recognized from the Douro,<br />
it remains stellar even though it is now perfectly ready.<br />
PORT<br />
Port wine is fortified by the addition of grape spirit (or brandy) during the early stage of primary fermentation. This process seals the<br />
components into a state of limbo, and thereafter the wine changes only slowly, either in wood or in bottle. Opimian’s wines will alter<br />
minimally over a period of many years but they are ready to enjoy when shipped.<br />
2614 “Methuen Plump”, Crusted Port, bottled 2000 9 9 This has reached that stage when it is turning from tannic to<br />
unctuous. Totally ready to be opened and enjoyed.<br />
Cellar Offering 151<br />
2673 Chénas 2003 10 10 Drink now.<br />
2674 Morgon 2003 10 10 No problem, but use it this year<br />
2679 Pouilly Vinzelles 2003 10 10 This should have been opened and poured by now.<br />
If there are bottles left, they may well be “over the hill.”<br />
2688 Gewürztraminer, Reserve 2001 10 10 Tasted in December 2009. The wine was fine, but its acidity<br />
has almost gone and, with it, all signs of freshness and vigour.<br />
Cellar Offering 152<br />
2692 Dom Vieux Manoir de Maransan, 2003 10 10 This has passed maturity and gone into limbo-land.<br />
Chusclan Still drinkable, but past its best.<br />
2693 Dom de l’Oiselet, Vacqueras 2000 10 10 Still a good drink.<br />
2695 Dom de la Roche, Costières de Nîmes 2003 10 10 By now, there should be none of this left. If there is,<br />
don’t wait any longer.<br />
2697 Domaine des Romarins,<br />
Côte du Rhône Village<br />
2002 10 10 Move on, drink what is left.<br />
2699 Domaine de la Ferme St Martin,<br />
Beaumes de Venise<br />
2002 10 10 No longer particularly good. Fruit almost gone.<br />
2701 Dom des Cigalons,<br />
Châteauneuf-du-Pape<br />
2002 10 10 Still lovely. A tribute to terroir and vineyard management.<br />
2708 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 2002 10 10 The initial aromas are now rather kerosene-ish, but that is<br />
what happens to old Rieslings. Carry on, and if you like these<br />
pensioners, use the bottles that remain sparingly.<br />
2734 Cornellana, Chardonnay Reserva 2003 10 10 Not particularly attractive any more.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
2000 was fantastic! Not only was it the year of the Millennium,<br />
which made the vintage collectable, but summer weather<br />
remained warm and dry right up to the September picking.<br />
These seven red Bordeaux wines must now be fully developed.<br />
They are in excellent condition – none have collapsed,<br />
although all are now mature. Start to enjoy, but keep them<br />
for special occasions.
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
2735 Cornellana, 2002 10 10 Rather a good bottle, but not all of the bottles are still good<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva – try by trial and error.<br />
2736 Cornellana, Merlot Reserva 2002 9 10 Nothing wrong with this. It is ready, but still balanced.<br />
2737 Cornellana Carmenère Reserva 2003 10 10 Great wine. Thankfully it has now softened all that brick wall<br />
of tannin and the fruit now provide the pleasure.<br />
2738 Cornellana, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 10 10 Rich and full flavoured. Well balanced. Very rich.<br />
Gran Reserva<br />
2740 Los Riscos, Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 10 10 A year ago I wrote “Beginning to fade.” It is still only<br />
beginning to fade – drink on.<br />
2741 Los Riscos Carmenère 2003 9 10 What a fine effort. Can be enjoyed and taken sparingly.<br />
It has two or three more years.<br />
2746 Casa Nueva, Carmenère 2003 10 10 This is the best of the ripe bunch of Carmenère from this<br />
offering.<br />
2747 Casa Nueva, Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2001 10 10 After watching closely for three years, we now suggest it is<br />
Merlot Reserva time to enjoy and use every bottle this year.<br />
Cellar Offering 154<br />
2817 Château de Chambrun 2002 9 9 This was the first wine we offered from J-P Janoueix – it was<br />
the sheer brilliance that drove us back to this cellar every year<br />
since 2002.<br />
2845 Château de Sours Rouge 2002 10 10 A very fine wine from an intermediate vintage. Use now.<br />
2846 “La Source” 2002 8 8 A good wine with a fine and firm base. Can be retained for a<br />
couple more years.<br />
Special Future Offering 40<br />
BORDEAUX 2003 VINTAGE<br />
2901 Château Haut Sociondo 2003 9 9<br />
2902 Château Chante Alouette 2003 9 9<br />
2903 Château Tour Saint Bonnet 2003 8 9<br />
2904 Château La Prade 2003 8 8<br />
2905 Château Boyd Cantenac 2003 8 8<br />
2906 Château Cadet Piola 2003 8 8<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
The high quality of the harvest brought fireworks and<br />
celebration across the entire Bordeaux region. Summer had been<br />
made difficult by the heat – the temperatures were too high,<br />
fires raged across Spain and Portugal, and in Germany the Rhine<br />
was at its lowest level for decades. For the vines, there was a<br />
dire shortage of water in the ground and the fruit bunches were<br />
rather dehydrated. The first week of glorious September cooling<br />
breezes, followed by light but frequent showers that cooled the<br />
air, brought relief. Light rain replenished the water around the<br />
roots and the bunches swelled to perfect ripeness. The vintage<br />
turned on its heel and produced wines of outstanding quality.<br />
The wines of 2003 have developed magnificently, reinforcing<br />
our original decision to make a special “futures” offer of several<br />
wines. Full-bodied and rampant, with exuberant flavours, they still<br />
show youth, but the immediacy of the fruit has calmed somewhat.<br />
They are now showing balance, poise and structure.
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
SPANISH FUTURES<br />
Opimian discovered the restructured vineyards, wineries and the greatest wines of northern Spain and introduced them to this country<br />
long before such regions as Ribera del Duero, Cigalles and Toro (not to forget Rioja) were available elsewhere. How could the wine<br />
world have overlooked these fabulous wines of Iberia for so long? Where Opimian pioneered, others have followed and now northern<br />
Spain’s wines are better known, their class recognized far and wide.<br />
2909 Bodegas Faustino, Rioja Reserva 2002 10 10 A special bottling for customers regarded by Faustino as<br />
special. The wine is lovely.<br />
2911 Bodegas Penalba López,<br />
Torremilanos Reserva<br />
2002 9 10 Still full of dark fruit, but now ready to enjoy.<br />
2907 Bodega Beaumonte, Crianza 2003 9 9 All that time maturing in casks is now seen in the softness<br />
of the palate. Enjoy now.<br />
2908 Valdelosfrailes, “Prestigio” 2003 9 9 Huge structure. Big flavour. Long lasting tannins,<br />
but perfectly ready.<br />
2910 Bodegas y Viñedos Valduero, Crianza 2003 9 9 The harsh landscape can almost be tasted in the glass. Still<br />
tough, this child has had to work to harmonize. Very fine wine.<br />
2912 Bodegas Farina, “Torre 5” Crianza 2003 8 9 Giant wine from a gigantic producer.<br />
2913 Bodegas Farina, 2003 8 8<br />
“Torre 7” Gran Colegiata, Campus Crianza<br />
Cellar Offering 156<br />
2915 Briar Ridge, Shiraz 2003 10 10 Soft, good fruit. No benefit in keeping longer.<br />
2916 Briar Ridge, Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 10 10 Very rich, full bouquet, fine black fruit.<br />
Special Offering 41<br />
2952 Chablis, Vieilles Vignes 2003 9 9 This is still OK, but it won’t get any better.<br />
Now very dry and a touch dull.<br />
2953 Chablis 1er Cru, Fourchaumes 2002 9 9 Now it only tastes of the terroir. The Chardonnay richness<br />
has gone.<br />
2954 Chablis, Grand Cru, Vaudésir 2002 8 9 Very fine. big structure. Full body, but would be far better<br />
with some more obvious fruit.<br />
2958 Volnay, Côte de Beaune 2003 10 10 A village wine and no more than that. Expect no great extra<br />
delight, it will only disappoint.<br />
2959 Aloxe-Corton, Côte de Beaune 2002 10 10 Rather dry, rather hard and not very svelte. It might add softer<br />
nuances, but as of now, it is very tight.<br />
2960 Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits 2003 9 10 Giving pleasure through a nice balance of smooth tannin and<br />
fruit. Good length.<br />
2961 Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte de Nuits 2003 9 10 Standing up well. Colour has faded a lot, but the nose is lovely<br />
and it still presents the ripe fruit in the middle palate.<br />
2966 Pouilly Fuissé 2004 10 10 Carpe Diem – seize the moment before it is too late.<br />
Cellar Offering 157<br />
3006 Monte Castrillo Roble, Ribera Del Duero 2003 9 9 This wine alone would be sufficient to convert a sceptic to a<br />
love of Spanish wine. In a word, it is “complete.”<br />
3030 Clos du Haute Combe, Juliénas 2004 8 10 Often as it is said, this is truly one of the finest estates in the<br />
whole of southern Burgundy and Beaujolais, producing quite<br />
superb wines. The vintage was good, but not exceptional, so<br />
perhaps it is reasonable to suggest that the wines reflect that<br />
assessment.<br />
3036 Gilles Flacher, Saint Joseph 2003 8 9 Fine year, fine wine, rather stalky and a tad tough, but largely<br />
it is all together.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 158<br />
3049 - 3056<br />
ALSACE 2003 VINTAGE<br />
Being at the northern extremity of European winemaking, Alsace was cooler through the summer than more southerly vineyards. Even so,<br />
the temperatures were constantly high, leading to an inevitable loss of acidity, but a higher than average extract level. All of the 2003s are<br />
now ready; they are concentrated and fat. The smaller (less expensive) wines tend to be a touch dull as they are wanting more acidity, but<br />
the great grand Cru wines (Lots 3054 to 3056) are superb. Ready to drink, but quite happy to be laid down for even greater aging.<br />
3066 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Cornellana 2003 8 10 It takes a visit to the Valley where the Cornellana vineyards<br />
are planted to appreciate the perfection of the site and its<br />
sandy/gravely soil. A perfect environment to produce a wine<br />
with outstanding qualities… Ready now.<br />
3067 Carmenère Reserva, Cornellana 2004 8 10 That lovely Carmenère again. What did we do before<br />
John Sambrook took a shine to the grape and practically<br />
single-handedly introduced it to Canada? Every example<br />
we taste is delicious, starting life as a tough customer, but<br />
softening, swelling, and eventually, caressing the palate.<br />
3068 Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2004 10 10 Fine bright colours, showing only small touches of fading<br />
Syrah Reserva, Cornellana towards garnet, the precursors of ageing. It is now entirely<br />
ready to drink.<br />
3069 Merlot/Cabernet Gran Reserva, 2004 9 9 The winemaker has made a true classic South American<br />
Cornellana wine with noble flavour and weight. Entirely ready this year.<br />
3070 Merlot Gran Reserva, Cornellana 2004 8 10 It comes as a small surprise that such rich wines as this<br />
develop delicious and well balanced harmony. A top class<br />
example of the Chilean way with wine.<br />
3075 Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2003 9 9 Well developed. Clean and pure fruit. Drink now.<br />
Merlot Reserva, Casa Nueva<br />
3087 Merlot Reserva, Villard Estate 2003 10 10 Thierry Villard’s wines are beautifully made, with complex, fine<br />
aromas and always good balance. This has lovely pungency<br />
and well ripened fruit.<br />
Cellar Offering 159<br />
3121 Ruppertsberger Hofstuck 2004 8 9 Now entirely mature. <strong>Wine</strong>s such as this lovely Gewürz,<br />
Gewürztraminer Kabinett from the Pfalz Germany’s most southerly major production<br />
area, have rather more body and opulence than those from<br />
further north. This one is a ripe basket of warm, earthy<br />
smelling tropical fruit.<br />
3124 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese 2003 9 10 This wine comes from a vineyard donated to the German<br />
Red Cross, whose technical winemaking team have produced<br />
wines of the greatest quality over many years. Even though<br />
the sugars are quite nicely integrated with the lean fruit, it is<br />
still in perfect condition, but should now be enjoyed.<br />
3125 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2003 9 10 One of the best wines of the vintage from the Mosel. The<br />
vineyard is legendary, having consistently produced the finest<br />
wines over more than two centuries. Fresh, still dynamic, well<br />
balanced.<br />
3126 Ruppertsberger Weissburgunder 2001 8 9 Notably expensive, but deservedly so. This is a stunning<br />
Beerenauslese example of a great dessert wine – perhaps better used as<br />
a contemplative “sipping” wine served well chilled in a small<br />
pouring into a large glass.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
7
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 160<br />
BORDEAUX 2003 VINTAGE<br />
See note on page 5.<br />
3148 Château Maillard, Graves 2003 8 9 Still full of red and black fruit notes. Good stalky, spice edged<br />
tannins. It is already powerfully flavoursome, but will get even<br />
better yet.<br />
3151 Château Le Conseiller, 2003 8 9 One of the first wines we offered from the cellars of Janoueix,<br />
Bordeaux Supérieur who has developed a following of “cult” proportions since<br />
Opimian wrote his name on the international export market.<br />
3153 Château Guadet Saint Julien, 2003 8 9 A wine that is now showing great breed and distinction.<br />
Grand Cru, Saint-Émilion Soft and typically Saint-Émilion, with interest and elegance<br />
in the mouth.<br />
BORDEAUX 2002 VINTAGE<br />
Few experts gave the vintage more than an even chance of producing classy wines. The summer was changeable, but with September,<br />
as so often in Bordeaux, came fine weather that continued until the harvest at the end of the month. Nowadays, they say there is no<br />
vintage so poor that it cannot be saved. With this one, it was not so much a question of saving the year, but making the most of it,<br />
leaving the final verdict to the buyers and now, eight years later, to the tasters.<br />
3152 Château Hortevie, Saint Julien 2002 9 10 Typical Saint Julien as it develops, its lovely subtle tobacco<br />
leaf nose and warm, well rounded leaf compost aromas.<br />
3159 Château Thébot, Bordeaux 2002 10 10 Good, ready.<br />
3169 Château de Sours Rouge, Bordeaux 2003 9 10 A reliable stand-by for special occasions. This property never<br />
lets you down. It is often described as being “on a par” with<br />
the great wines of the Classified Growths of Bordeaux, and as<br />
the exclusive outlet in Canada, who are we to argue.<br />
3170 La Source Rouge, Bordeaux 2003 9 9 Great. Ready, perfectly rich red.<br />
Cellar Offering 161<br />
3181 - 3213<br />
VIN DE PAYS<br />
This offering was mainly a homage to the Vin de Pays, plus one or two other wines from highly rated properties of Southern France,<br />
the area largely lying between the Atlantic coast and the Mediterranean Sea. They were made for enjoyment within two or three years<br />
of the vintage. As all the wines of this offer have now reached their sixth year, they are not only ready, but some will have begun to<br />
fail. However, the reds, particularly from properties such as Château Vignelaure, Château Salitis or Château La Clotte Fontane, remain<br />
healthy and full-bodied, but they will hardly improve any further. So, break open the cellar, invite friends and hold a party.<br />
Cellar Offering 162<br />
3276 Clos Gebrat Joven, Priorato 2004 8 9 The whole of the wine world has found its way to Priorat and<br />
bought land, and now make massive, pungent, tar flavoured<br />
monsters that should be cellared away for a decade before<br />
tasting. Still huge, only showing early sign of the softening of<br />
maturation, it is almost full enough to be chewed.<br />
Cellar Offering 163<br />
3310 Cabernet Sauvignon, Briar Ridge 2004 9 9 Wonderfully ripe black berries, cassis, a grinding of fresh black<br />
pepper and finely tuned supple tannins. Very fine wine. Should<br />
be used this year or next.<br />
3311 Shiraz, Geoff Hardy 2004 8 9 No change. If one had to find one Shiraz in the cellar to<br />
represent all those of Australia, this might well be selected,<br />
as it does offer all the fun of the grape. Leather, chocolate,<br />
smoke, cedar, plums and liquorice.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Special Offering 42<br />
3339 Chablis Premier Crus, 2003 8 9 Fabulous example of refined, classic, terroir influenced<br />
“Les Fouchaumes” Chablis. There is never a huge level of “topicality” about the<br />
Chardonnay fruit used for these wines, but it has poise, clean<br />
mineral notes and length.<br />
3346 Gevrey-Chambertin, Côtes de Nuits 2004 8 9 Rather tough and acerbic, even austere. The difficulty lies in<br />
accessing the fruit, which appears to be hidden behind a layer<br />
of stringy tannin. It is too good to recommend for cooking, but<br />
proceed with caution. Use it with hot dishes, stews, casseroles<br />
and have a different bottle in reserve.<br />
3347 Nuits-Saint-Georges 2004 9 10 Time for this to hit the road. No real chance that it will<br />
improve, and when last tasted, it was beginning to show fruit<br />
deficiencies. It is still all right, but not great.<br />
3354 - 3361<br />
BEAUJOLAIS 2005 VINTAGE<br />
The vintage and the preceding months were uncommonly hot, with temperatures reaching 35 degrees for 36 consecutive days. This<br />
resulted in an early vintage with very big, unusually full-bodied wines from all the hillside villages among the “crus” of Beaujolais, wines<br />
such as Fleurie, Brouilly, Julienas and others. These “village” wines are still in fine condition, but with diminishing tannin levels. The<br />
depositing of sediment and loss of young vigour, it is time to drink them.<br />
Cellar Offering 164<br />
3383 Emina Prestigio 2003 9 9 One of the finest wines of the northern Spanish vineyards,<br />
the spiritual home of the Tempranillo vine. The tannic grip<br />
remains, although there is plenty of red berry fruit to soften<br />
the harshness of any acidity. It is clearly a wine that will run<br />
on, developing, maturing, broadening for several years to<br />
come.<br />
3384 Colegiata “4 Messes Barrica” 2004 9 9 One more example of Manuel Farina’s ability to coax every<br />
nuance of complexity from his ripe Tempranillo grapes. This is<br />
now ready, but it is truly a very fine wine.<br />
3395 Via Aurelia Oak Aged Cabernet/Merlot 2003 9 9 This wine has matured well and harmoniously. It is now<br />
soft with fruit that mingle with supple oak tannins to give a<br />
structured edge to the palate, preventing it from losing<br />
varietal character.<br />
3406 – 3409<br />
PORT WINES FROM CHURCHILL, GRAHAM LDA.<br />
A general note can be found on page 4. However, their two deep rich and red Table wines (Lots 3406 and 3407), both from the<br />
2003 vintage, are now mature and will bring the delight of the Douro sun into the glass.<br />
3423 Gewürztraminer Réserve 2004 10 10 All the fruit from the greengrocer’s bench. Lychees, mangoes,<br />
even peaches and ripe apples and pears. Lovely now, it wants<br />
drinking within eighteen months.<br />
3424 Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg 2004 10 10 Grand Crus are relatively rare in Alsace; this is from one of<br />
the smaller, less famous sites. The Riesling of 2004 is<br />
wonderful. Sharp as a pine needle. Rich in extract, metallic,<br />
flinty and pure. A great wine.<br />
3425 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Froehn 2003 8 8 A Gewürz needs time to establish its personality. This has<br />
been taking place quietly over several years and it is now<br />
perfectly mature. Grand Cru designation.<br />
3428 Bodegas Fariña, Coupage Especial 2004 8 8 Fariña, the father of the Toro appellations, only makes<br />
DO Toro, Founders’ Choice great wines. Although now ready, it has stamina, power<br />
and great depth. A wine of surpassing quality.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
10<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 165<br />
3429 Costières de Nîmes, 2005 8 9 Good winemaking and a fine exposure in the vineyards has<br />
Domaine de la Roche<br />
3430 – 3438<br />
RHÔNE 2004 VINTAGE<br />
made a far better wine here than might have been expected.<br />
This is a family estate, with two sisters making and marketing<br />
the wines under the ever watchful eye of their mother.<br />
It was during a visit to the Berthet-Rayne vineyards that the fine quality of the vintage made its character apparent. After a vintage<br />
(2003) of towering heat, when it is said that thousands of elderly people across Europe succumbed to the high temperatures,<br />
2004 was far cooler. The vines, fully ripened during the summer of 2003, were ready, willing and able to carry a full harvest of<br />
well formed flower rosettes and later, after a still flowering period, a full crop. Many suppliers to Opimian, knowing how carefully<br />
we seek out growers who are not over greedy and who restrict their crop by summer pruning, passed through their vines two or<br />
three times, cutting out any imperfectly formed bunches. The wines were all beautifully balanced, much less full-bodied than the<br />
preceding two years, but their harmony was close to perfect. The wines are now fully mature and can be enjoyed, indeed should<br />
be opened and enjoyed, before 2014.<br />
3435 Crozes Hermitage, Domaine de Murinais 2004 8 9 Tough as an old snake skin, but rather more attractive, it asks<br />
the question whether it will ever become supple. Try and test,<br />
bottle by bottle - some of those tasted have been perfectly<br />
delightful.<br />
3436 Saint Joseph, Domaine Gilles Flacher 2004 8 9 Weighty, refined. Could do with a little more fruit, but it is an<br />
honest and good sample of the region and vintage.<br />
3438 Condrieu, Domaine Stephane Montez 2004 10 10 Use within the coming year, it is getting oily-flavoured, yet rather thin.<br />
3452 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Cornellana, 2005 10 10 A wine with potential for longer aging. All the parts are in<br />
Founders’ Choice place to provide ripeness, fruit, tannic balance and nice fixed<br />
fruit acidity. Very long, fleshy palate.<br />
3455 Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Reserve, 2004 8 9 A nuclear attack of tannin and fruit mushrooming out of the<br />
Cornellana glass to fill the nose with firm, ripe, red berry and black plum<br />
aromas. Powerful in the mouth, and though it is now mature, it<br />
does not need to be opened yet.<br />
3456 Carmenère, Barrel Reserve, Cornellana 2005 8 8 Like many of the examples of this vine we have offered over<br />
many years, this, from the wine makers of Cornellana, is<br />
a beauty. Full-bodied, velvet flavours, no hard edges, well<br />
balanced and long in the palate. A perfect reason to look<br />
for this wine in future Cellar Offerings.<br />
3457 Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2005 8 9 Great wine, full-bodied, sturdy and still tannic with an oozing<br />
Barrel Reserve, Cornellana weight of fruit supporting the bold flavours.<br />
3467 Cabernet Sauvignon, Casa Nueva 2004 8 9<br />
These four wines all come from the family estate<br />
3468<br />
3469<br />
Carmenère, Casa Nueva<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Reserva, Casa Nueva<br />
2005<br />
2004<br />
8<br />
9<br />
9<br />
9<br />
vineyards of Roberto Echeverria. It is a “hands on” operation with<br />
each member of the family concentrating on their own area of<br />
expertise, from sales and marketing to vineyard development and<br />
winery operations. Nothing comes before quality, and this driving<br />
3470 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
Special Selection, Casa Nueva<br />
2005 10 10 philosophy can be recognized in the steady progress that all the<br />
Casa Nuevo wines make towards maturity.<br />
3473 Merlot Expresión Reserva, Villard Estate 2004 9 10 Well made example of French style winemaking, but proudly<br />
showing off the lustre, full colour and body of Chile’s fine<br />
growing conditions. Drink before 2014.<br />
3477 Carmenère, Terra Nova 2004 10 10 One cannot ignore the remarkable quality of this grape, the<br />
Carmenère. Overlooked and almost forgotten for a hundred<br />
years, it has emerged as one of the finest New World reds.<br />
Traverso’s wine is a little lighter than some, but nonetheless,<br />
it is a full and robust wine.<br />
3480 Reserva de la Familia, Roberto Echeverria, 2001 8 8 No hurry. Fine winemaking demonstrated by the orchestration<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Founders’ Choice of the ripe and full-bodied components. We hold this<br />
winemaker and all his wines in very high esteem.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 166<br />
3514 Salice Salentino, Torrevento 2004 10 10 What started as a mass of sweet fruit, became a full-bodied<br />
and strongly flavoured red. Deep in colour and ripe. Drink this<br />
year.<br />
3521 Trockenbeerenauslese, Höpler 2001 9 9 Although taking on colour and obvious age, it is still close<br />
to perfection. Austrian Trockenbeerenauslesen are rather<br />
lighter than their German counterparts, but this is sufficiently<br />
full-bodied to withstand age and any test.<br />
3522 Eiswein, Höpler 2004 8 8 Höpler’s late picked wines do not perform to a strict<br />
timetable. This one has ebbed and flowed, but it has<br />
always been superbly integrated with the required high<br />
acidity to balance the grape sugars.<br />
3526 Eppelsheimer Felsen Gewürztraminer, 2005 9 9 This is a late harvested, but excellent, example of the fatness<br />
Spätlese and richness of the Pfalz regional Gewürz. Rubbery. Aromatic.<br />
Stone fruit flavoured. A great wine.<br />
3527 Gundersheimer Höllenbrand, 2003 7 8 One could write a book about this, or merely note that it is<br />
Kerner, Beerenauslese timeless. Will develop evenly and, over many years, darken,<br />
becoming more honey flavoured.<br />
3528 Ruppertsberger Nussbien, 2005 10 10 Very fine wine. Will take more age, but it is now riding a crest.<br />
Riesling Kabinett Indicates the finest quality of production in the perfection of<br />
its balance.<br />
3531 Rüdesheimer Riesling, 2005 9 10 Lovely wine, but the freshness of the Riesling has given<br />
Halbtrocken Kabinett ground to the typical kerosene aromas found in older Rieslings.<br />
Cellar Offering 167<br />
3548 Château Hortevie, Saint-Julien 2003 9 9 Supple and soft, good structure and length. Getting better by<br />
the month, it can be hugely enjoyable now.<br />
3549 Château Monbrison, Margaux 2003 8 9 Highly praised in the wine press when it was first offered, it<br />
has lived up to all the hype and promise. Drinking perfectly<br />
now, but it will go on for several years.<br />
3550 Château La Confession Grand Cru, 2003 9 9 The first offering made from this property, where the wine<br />
Saint-Émilion is made by the masterly Jean-Philippe Janoueix. Superb,<br />
balanced, harmonious and showing all its parts as one.<br />
A really beautiful example of a very fine vintage.<br />
3552 Cuvée du Fondateur, AOC Bordeaux 2004 9 10<br />
Supérieur, Founders’ Choice<br />
3557 ‘S’ de Suduiraut, Bordeaux 2004 9 9 It retains the honeyed, rich nose that indicates that the wine<br />
is sweet. This is one of the rarities of Bordeaux - a perfectly<br />
delicious, but entirely dry Sauternes.<br />
3561 Château Haut Nadeau, 2003 9 9 Remains a stylish, but now mature, wine. Notes of chocolate<br />
Bordeaux Supérieur augment the red fruit and berry flavours. No rush needed.<br />
3570 Château de Sours Rouge, Bordeaux 2004 9 10 Easy. No longer showing the pungent attack of earlier<br />
tastings, but still a delightful glass of fine claret.<br />
3571 La Source Rouge, Bordeaux 2004 9 9 Still fine. Good colour, little sign of fading. While the red fruit<br />
level remains high, the wine will go on and on and on.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
11
12<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
BORDEAUX 2003 VINTAGE<br />
2904 Château La Prade 2003 8 8<br />
Bordeaux Cotes de Francs<br />
2906 Château Cadet Piola, 2003 8 8<br />
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru<br />
Cellar Offering 168<br />
3590 L’Esprit de Vignelaure Rouge 2003 9 9 Fabulous wine of a great, although very hot, year. Some of the<br />
low acidity was made up for by high tannins and some from<br />
the grapes; the rest from wood cask maturation. Enjoy it now,<br />
it is close to perfection.<br />
3591 Château Vignelaure 2002 9 10 It is slightly sad that this brilliant wine is now past its best,<br />
although it is only in the diminishing fruit that there is any loss.<br />
Enjoy this year.<br />
3605 Château Bellevue Gabelas Rouge 2005 8 9 This fine property produces top class wines year on year.<br />
Concentrated, complex and smoothly fruity.<br />
3608 Le Rouge de l’Azerolles, Minervois 2005 10 10 Rounded and easy. Mature notes, but good fruit remains.<br />
3623 Saint Romain “La Combe Bazin” 2005 9 9 This was lovely a year ago. It is lovely still, but there is little<br />
point in waiting for the next bus – it has arrived now.<br />
3626 Saint Romain “La Perrière” 2005 9 9 Fine Pinot Noir characters. It will never be a blockbuster, but<br />
this is what well made Pinot Noir should be like.<br />
3627 Beaune “Les Bons Feuvres” 2005 9 9 Balanced. Medium bodied. Good aromas of raspberry and<br />
mushrooms. Ready now.<br />
3633 Côteaux du Layon Dom de Pont Livier 2005 9 9 Lovely wine. Will go on forever, but it would be sad not to<br />
enjoy its freshness and flavour now.<br />
3639 Sancerre Rouge “Tradition” 2005 8 9 Very good example. Not big bodied and brassy, but subtle<br />
and flavoursome. Great vintage. Enjoy now.<br />
Cellar Offering 169<br />
See note on page 5.<br />
3643 Cabernet Sauvignon Burgess Cellars 2002 10 10 One of the finest producers of the Napa Valley, Tom Burgess’<br />
wine has great authority and power. It still shows the pungent<br />
spice and pepper so typical of fine Cab and offers great length.<br />
Utterly ready, but there is no need to rush for a corkscrew.<br />
3664 Reserve Syrah Castoro Cellars 2004 9 9 Leather. Soap. Floral notes against a firm bone of acidity and<br />
tannin.<br />
3665 Reserve Pinot Noir Castoro Cellars 2004 9 9 Great. A big, bold wine. Hardly typical of Pinot Noir, but ripe<br />
and comely. Still showing cherries and plum fruit.<br />
3675 Clockspring Vineyard, Zinfandel, 2004 10 10 Carefully and individually selected by Kevin Shannon to show<br />
Amador County, Founders’ Choice the quality of the vineyard and the wines of Amador County. It<br />
is now showing bags of class, good balance, the softness of<br />
ripe tannins and good length.<br />
3689 Vega Lara Crianza 2003 8 9 This great wine from one of the prime producers of the region<br />
has reached a plateau of excellence. It is ready, but will hold<br />
for many years as it matures, softens and becomes riper.<br />
3691 Valdelosfriales Vendimia Seleccionada 2003 8 8 An absolutely stunning wine that has taken time to fully<br />
mature. Dark. Oaky. Notes of vanilla, cedar, black grapes<br />
and dark olives. Now time to enjoy.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 170<br />
3698 Nulkaba Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 10 10 Concentrated, but not at all complex. Quite ready, open at will.<br />
3699 Riverwood Shiraz 2005 10 10 Medium deep, plum and stone fruit. Smoky notes with a dash<br />
of chocolate.<br />
3700 Briar Ridge Red Trio 2005 8 8 Deep coloured, it is still full of primary fruit, but mature notes<br />
of smoke and cellar floors are making their entrance. Enjoy<br />
within a couple of years.<br />
3701 Briar Ridge “Rockpile” Chardonnay 2005 10 10 This is so delicious that it seems unreasonable to drink it, but<br />
it wants to be opened to show off its peak of performance.<br />
3702 Briar Ridge Old Vines Shiraz 2005 9 9 Chocolatey, fine strands of mocha and lots of dark fruit in the<br />
forefront of the mouth. Touches of pungent liquorice.<br />
3703 Briar Ridge Cold Soaked 2005 9 9 The Hunter Valley magic of balance, intensity, fruit and structure<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon Lovely wine, perfectly ready to show the best of its qualities.<br />
3704 GMH Meritage, Limestone Coast/ 2004 9 10 Every innovative winemaker has dreams of perfectly blending<br />
Langhorne Creek, Vineyard Series the different components that make their Meritage selections.<br />
In this one, Geoff Hardy has had a great success. Rich,<br />
powerful and perfectly ready.<br />
3705 GMH Shiraz, Limestone Coast, 2005 10 10 Huge colour. Fine structure. Marvellous marriage of tannin<br />
Vineyard Series with black fruit.<br />
3706 Cabernet Sauvignon, K1 by Geoff Hardy, 2005 9 9 Bell-pepper, spice and many things nice to taste, like cassis,<br />
Kuitpo Vineyard plum and sweet kitchen spice too.<br />
3707 Shiraz, K1 by Geoff Hardy, 2005 9 9 One of Australia’s finest wine innovators, Geoff’s K1 wines<br />
Kuitpo Vineyard have been winning friends as well as prizes all over the<br />
country. Enjoy now, it is a lesson in fruit salad flavours in<br />
harmonious conjunction with leather.<br />
3708 Geoff Hardy, Cabernet-Tempranillo, 2004 8 8<br />
Founders’ Choice<br />
3711 Hastwell & Lightfoot Shiraz 2002 10 10 At eight years of age, it is fabulous.<br />
3712 Hastwell & Lightfoot Tempranillo 2004 8 9 This has to be the best Tempranillo made in Oz. Both Lightfoot<br />
and Hastwell are truly hands-on farmers and winemakers,<br />
both giving their last passionate effort and all of their energy<br />
to making their wines great. This is ready and lovely.<br />
3714 Milyaroo Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 9 9<br />
Southeast Australia<br />
3715 Milyaroo Merlot, Southeast Australia 2006 9 9<br />
3716 Milyaroo Shiraz, Southeast Australia 2006 9 9<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
These three wines come from irrigated vineyards a fair<br />
distance from the New South Wales coastline. They are<br />
made to be enjoyed when young and full of life. Go for it!<br />
3718 Richland Shiraz 2006 9 9 Generous fruit. Deep colour, very attractive. Ready.<br />
3721 Chardonnay [un-oaked], 2006 9 9 Peaches, banana and zesty pineapple, with a copious squeeze<br />
Henderson, Manuka Hill of limey acidity. Very good. Ready now.<br />
3724 Tua Tua Bay, Premium Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 10 10 Widely popular, as it should be, it is a great example of the<br />
Marlborough, Manuka Hill variety, enhanced by clever, even sensitive, winemaking.<br />
3727 “Triangle”, Clovelly Vineyard 2006 9 9 Jacques Fourie’s best wine. It is perfumed by eucalyptus<br />
mixed with heather, black fruit and stalky leaves. Very good<br />
wine, indeed.<br />
3733 “Family Reserve” Viognier, Riverstone 2005 10 10 Although still delicious, there is no point in holding this any longer.<br />
3734 Riverstone Shiraz 2004 10 10 Made by a family who have farmed their vineyards for several<br />
generations. It must be said, they have learned a thing or two.<br />
This is a fine example of Cape Shiraz. Very generous.<br />
3737 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sergio Traverso 2005 10 10 Not made for a long life, but for mid-term pleasure. This<br />
continues to please; it has lots of vinosity and black fruit.<br />
1
1<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
3740 “Blend 1314”, Sergio Traverso 2005 10 10 Sergio has done it again, producing a wine with enviable<br />
harmony, fine fruit integration and balanced structures.<br />
3744 Malbec, Fantasia, Valle de Uco 2006 9 9 Shrubby notes. Flowers. Grapey. Earthy and very fruity.<br />
Supple flavours.<br />
3745 Urban Uco, Tempranillo, Valle de Uco, 2003 10 10 Fully mature, but there seems no reason to hurry to open<br />
O. Fournier the bottle. It is full-bodied and shows fine structure.<br />
3746 Urban Uco, Malbec, Valle de Uco, 2004 10 10 Wonderful winemaking techniques have made this an<br />
O. Fournier international classic. Very fine, full and packed to the rim with flavour.<br />
3748 Syrah, Ópalo, Valle de Uco, Mendoza 2005 10 10 Full. A great example of the best of the region.<br />
Special Offering 43<br />
3761 Chablis, Premier Cru, Montmains 2005 6 7 Brilliant vintage. Full of fragrance and aromas of the terroir.<br />
3762 Chablis, Grand Cru, Vaudesir 2005 7 7 It has a solid limestone core around which the fruit makes an<br />
elegant appearance.<br />
3767 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2004 9 10 Simple wine of an average vintage. Still attractive, but time to<br />
drink up.<br />
3770 Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte de Nuits 2005 9 9 The fruit has come up to scratch, but it is rather short and<br />
appears to be going nowhere further.<br />
3771 Nuits St Georges, Côte de Nuits 2005 9 9 Good vintage. Good quality level. Like many Côte d’Or wines,<br />
it leaves questions to be answered.<br />
3776 Domaine de Milhomme, Beaujolais 2006 10 10 Although just a simple village wine, the producer has a very<br />
good handle on producing wines that exceed the norm.<br />
3780 Domaine Desmures, Chiroubles 2006 10 10 Floral, fruity and spicy. A wine that has reached its best,<br />
but will continue to please for another year or two.<br />
3790 Le Coin Perdu, Château de Sours, 2005 8 8<br />
Founders’ Choice<br />
Cellar Offering 171<br />
3806 Montblanc, “Masía Las Comes”, 2003 10 10 <strong>Wine</strong>s of this arid region can be quite slow to mature.<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Reserva This one still has some way to go, but it is certainly a joy now.<br />
3810 Bodegas Ramón Bilbao Single 2005 8 8 Very fine. Typical of estate, grape and vintage.<br />
Vineyard, DO Rioja Softened up beautifully.<br />
3811 Tilenus Joven, DO Bierzo, 2006 9 9 One of the crown jewels that keep on appearing out of<br />
Bodegas Estefanía the Iberian “campo.”<br />
3812 Monte Castrillo Roble, DO Ribera 2005 8 8 Still tough. Not yet rich. It will get softer and rounder yet.<br />
del Duero, Bodegas Peñalba Lopez<br />
3816 Rioja Reserva, 2001 10 10 Purest vanilla and chocolate, with just a hint of pungent<br />
DO Rioja, Bodegas Ramón Bilbao spice and warm Tempranillo fruit.<br />
3817 Torremilanos Crianza, 2003 8 10 Can be kept, but probably as good as it gets now.<br />
DO Ribera del Duero<br />
3818 Vendimia Seleccionada, 2004 8 8 An unusual DOC, but there is nothing unusual in the high<br />
DO Cigales, Bodegas Valdelosfrialles quality of the wine. Now nearly ready and attractively fruity.<br />
3819 Valduero Crianza, 2004 8 9 Now quite soft and supple.<br />
DO Ribera del Duero, Bodegas Valduero<br />
3820 Gran Colegiata, Campus, 2004 8 8 This is a wonderful wine. Not many come better than this.<br />
DO Toro, Bodegas Fariña It has life aplenty.<br />
3828 Pisa a Pé, Quinta de San João Batista, 2004 8 9 Very full. Very powerful structure. A great, now mature red.<br />
DO Ribatejo<br />
3830 Churchill Estates Douro Tinto, 2004 9 9 Wonderful, full-bodied, ripe and rich, it has enough fruit to last,<br />
DO Douro, Churchill Graham Lda. grow, mature and develop for several more years. A wine of<br />
typically high Churchill, Graham quality.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
PORT WINES FROM CHURCHILL, GRAHAM<br />
None of Churchill’s wines lack weight, authority or balanced fruit. They come, increasingly year by year<br />
from properties that have been purchased by John Graham as the company has flourished. The result<br />
is that the wines are better than those shipped in the early 1980 decade from this House. If the trend<br />
to sourcing from vineyards owned by the House continues, they will eventually become the equivalent of<br />
“domaine bottled.” In the meantime, they are solid and good valued, each wine exhibiting a wonderful<br />
nose and palate often described, and much loved by Port aficionados, as “Douro Palate.”<br />
3831 Opimian’s Finest Reserve Port,<br />
Churchill Graham Lda<br />
N.V. n/a n/a<br />
3832 Opimian Dry White Port,<br />
Churchill Graham Lda<br />
N.V. n/a n/a<br />
3833 Opimian Late Bottled Vintage Port,<br />
Churchill Graham Lda<br />
2001 n/a n/a<br />
3834 Opimian Tawny Port, 10 Years Old,<br />
Churchill Graham Lda<br />
N.V. n/a n/a<br />
3835 Opimian Crusted Port, Bottled,<br />
Churchill Graham Lda<br />
2002 n/a n/a<br />
3836 Alto, DO Douro, Portugal, N.V. 9 9 One of the earliest Founder’s Choice wines.<br />
Founders’ Choice A good choice, as it is now showing fine red fruity style.<br />
3837 Edelzwicker, Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr 2005 10 10 Totally mature. Will not much improve, as the flavours are<br />
already drying out.<br />
3838 Pinot Blanc Klevner, Reserve,<br />
Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr<br />
2005 10 10 Drink soon.<br />
3839 Riesling d’Alsace, Reserve, 2005 8 9 Steely, needle sharp notes of white cherry, flowers and<br />
Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr minerals. Great wine. Very fresh. Early signs of maturity, but<br />
very pleasing harmony.<br />
3843 Pinot Gris, Grand Cru, “Rosacker”, 2004 9 10 A wonderful example of the clean notes and refined harmony<br />
“Schoenenbourg”,<br />
Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr<br />
of a fine Alsace wine.<br />
3844 Gewürztraminer, Grand Cru, 2004 9 10 A wonderful wine. Very fine flavour profiles that highlight,<br />
Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr not only the residual developed fruit, but the balancing acidity<br />
that enhances the length in the mouth.<br />
3849 Mâcon Supérieur Rouge,<br />
Cuvée Prestige, Paul Sapin<br />
2006 9 10 Not going anywhere. Drink up.<br />
3850 Mâcon Lugny, Cuvée Prestige, 2006 10 10 In good shape. Perfectly mature now and showing the best<br />
Paul Sapin of its characters.<br />
3851 Pouilly Fuissé, Vieilles Vignes,<br />
Paul Sapin<br />
2006 9 10 Developed. Very fine. Still beautifully balanced.<br />
Cellar Offering 172<br />
3859 Domaine de la Ferme Saint Martin,<br />
AOC Beaumes de Venise<br />
2005 9 9 Very fine bouquet. Jam, damsons and chocolate notes.<br />
3860 Domaine Berthet-Rayne “Tradition”, 2005 9 9 As fine and full now as when first bottled, except that all<br />
AOC Cairanne the harshness has been replaced by full notes of red fruit.<br />
3861 Domaine Gilles Flacher, 2005 9 9 Fat, soft and well fleshed out, with dark berries and<br />
AOC Saint Joseph succulent fruit flavour.<br />
3862 Domaine du Murinais, 2005 8 9 This cuvée, made from the oldest vines on the estate,<br />
AOC Crozes Hermitage has matured very well and now shows very similar characters<br />
to good Hermitage and even Côte Rôtie.<br />
3864 Domaine des Cigalons, 2005 9 9 Perfect now. No rush needed, it will hang on for several<br />
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape more years.<br />
3878 Côte Rôtie, du Peloux Eleveur,<br />
AOC Côte Rôtie<br />
2004 10 10 Now slightly disappointing. Should be used this year.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
1
1<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
3883 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 9 9<br />
Barrel Reserve, Cornellana Estate<br />
3884 Carmenère, Barrel Reserve, 2005 8 9<br />
Cornellana Estate<br />
3885 Shiraz, Barrel Reserve, 2005 9 9<br />
Cornellana Estate<br />
3889 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 9 10 Perfectly acceptable. No problems with maturity, but it won’t<br />
Casa Nueva grow any more in the bottle.<br />
3890 Carmenère, Casa Nueva 2006 9 9 Big mouth of red fruit. Still boldly flavoured. In fact, it is only<br />
now showing soft ripeness emerging out of the tannins.<br />
3892 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, 2005 9 10 Classic example of a wine made from optimally ripe fruit. It is<br />
Casa Nueva both luscious and soft, yet leaves plenty of fruit on the palate.<br />
3893 Syrah Reserva, Casa Nueva 2005 9 9 Vanilla and chocolate mingle with blackberry fruit and sweet<br />
Bing cherries.<br />
3894 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Reserva, 2005 9 10 Lovely, soft red fruit. Smokey. Good grip.<br />
Casa Nueva<br />
3895 Syrah/Carmenère Reserva, 2005 10 10 It is very hard to find fault with Echeverria’s wines.<br />
Casa Nueva This is no exception. It is perfectly ready.<br />
3898 Merlot, Expresion Reserve 2005 10 10 Has come on quickly since a year ago,<br />
but it is still drinking well.<br />
3899 Chardonnay, Esencia Grand Reserve 2003 9 10 Beautiful, but only if it has been stored in a cool environment.<br />
Very big flavour. Developed nose. Long in the mouth.<br />
3900 Grand Reserve Assemblage, 2000 10 10 Supple. Still fruity. Very soft mouth-feel. Notes of cigar<br />
Maipo Valley box and coffee.<br />
3901 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Equis, 2004 10 10 Villard’s best wine, it is a great example of middle to top<br />
Gran Vino Tinto quality from Chile. Its balance shows the clever blending<br />
of the two varieties.<br />
3903 Merlot, Terra Nova 2006 9 9 Still a good bottle.<br />
3904 Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra Nova 2006 9 9 It has now come together, with both the fruit and once rough<br />
tannins now smoothly together.<br />
3905 Carmenère, Terra Nova 2005 10 10 No point in holding on any longer, it is fully mature.<br />
Still well balanced with good structure.<br />
3908 Sergio Traverso Memorable, N.V. 8 9 Drinking well and showing little advance towards maturity.<br />
Founders’ Choice Typically elegant Traverso style.<br />
Cellar Offering 173<br />
3912 Cabernet/Merlot “Jaras”, 2002 10 10 Right at the edge of its maturity. The colour is still good,<br />
DOC Alto Adige but much of the early vigour and life has declined.<br />
3914 Chardonnay “Cardellino”, 2005 10 10 A wine that gives a fine indication of the winemaker’s talents.<br />
DOC Alto Adige, E Walch It is pure, clean and what is expected of a maturing<br />
Chardonnay.<br />
3918 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 2003 8 9 Notes of figs, dates, prunes – all the dried fruits. Still huge,<br />
Delibori but softness has superceded the tannic edges.<br />
3919 Sangiovese Toscano Rosso, IGT 2006 9 10 Still an attractive companion. Drink now. There is no profit in waiting.<br />
3920 Chianti, DOCG, Fratelli Corsi 2006 9 9 Good vinosity. Mature. Grainy fruit with leafy, warm aromas.<br />
3921 Montecarlo Rosso, DOC, 2005 8 8 A delicious, “gluggable” mouthfiller. Soft and opulently fruity.<br />
Fattoria del Teso Quite a rustic and charming red.<br />
3923 Chianti Colli Senesi, DOCG, 2006 9 9 Soft, rounded, easy flavours. Some oak notes. To be<br />
Casa della Terra enjoyed this year.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
The Cornellana wines of the 2005 vintage were close to<br />
being ready to drink shortly after bottling, when their fruit<br />
was oozing out of the fruit laden aromas. So maturity can<br />
only be measured in the time that they have remained<br />
delicious. These, from the 2005 vintage, remain in this<br />
review because they have shown their ability to develop,<br />
soften and build their characters in a steady progress.
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
3924 Morellino di Scansano 2006 9 9 Excellent. A wine that Tuscans really appreciate.<br />
“La Preselle”, DOC It is a fine example from an increasingly popular denomination.<br />
3925 Chianti Classico “Fagnano”, DOCG, 2005 9 9 Fine. Harmonious. Well integrated. Still lots of fine fruit.<br />
Gallo Nero<br />
3926 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, 2004 8 8 Very tannic. Damp soil, mushrooms, leafy and grip of<br />
DOCG, Cerraia black cherry. Very full flavours.<br />
3927 Brunello di Montalcino, 2002 9 9 So much nicer now than a couple of years back. It is robustly<br />
DOCG, Castello Tricerchi and proudly Italian, showing all of the mature, mellow notes of<br />
the Sangiovese grape.<br />
3932 Barbera d’Alba, DOC, Terrenostre 2005 9 9 Stylish wine. Good leathery notes. Some smoke. Good depth<br />
of flavour.<br />
3935 Barbaresco, DOCG, Terrenostre 2003 9 9 Still perfect. Good wine of a good vintage.<br />
3936 Barolo, DOCG, Cantina Bel Colle 2003 9 9 Has matured well. It is not very big and might be a touch<br />
clumsy, but enjoyable.<br />
3938 Salice Salentino 2005 9 9 This is still a monster of a wine. Big fruit. Not much by way of<br />
acidity. Tannin on the decline, but still a good sturdy drink.<br />
3940 Pinot Noir, DOC, Alto Walch, 2004 10 10 Nice smoky notes. Good balance. Drink this year.<br />
Founders’ Choice<br />
3049 Chardonnay, Höpler 2006 9 9 Very stylish example of the grape. It has lovely,<br />
if rather discrete, characters. Nice nose, not at all<br />
overpowering. Peachy finish.<br />
3950 Riesling, Höpler 2006 9 9 Never rush with Hopler’s wines. They stand the time<br />
test and this, like others, remains fine.<br />
3951 Pinot Noir, Höpler 2003 9 10 This has never appeared to have caught up with itself and,<br />
consequently, it still tastes in several parts. Nice, but a little<br />
manqué.<br />
3952 Trockenbeerenauslese, Höpler 2002 10 10 Quite ready, but that does not indicate any need to drink, as<br />
it will live nobly onwards into great age. Put it away for your<br />
dotage.<br />
3953 Eiswein, Höpler 2004 9 9 A great wine. Super honeyed sweetness. This is a much<br />
sought after classic within Austria.<br />
3954 Pinot Noir, Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt 2005 9 9 Bold flavours. Acidity has declined. Well developed.<br />
3955 Ruppertsberger Nussbien Kabinett 2006 8 9 No change in the last year. It is an elegant and really beautiful<br />
wine. Softer now. Easy to enjoy. No problems here.<br />
3956 Ruppertsberger Hofstuck 2006 8 9 Lovely tropical noted. Spicy aromas. Well packed with stone<br />
Gewürztraminer Kabinett fruit flavours. Very good wine.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
17
1<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
3957 Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch 2006 9 9 Still shows lively balance. Very well made.<br />
Grauer Burgunder Kabinett<br />
3958 Rudesheimer Riesling Kabinett 2006 9 9 Just meandering slowly. It will continue to show well for some<br />
time.<br />
3959 Bernkasteler Badstube 2006 10 10 No need to hurry, but it is at its best<br />
Riesling Hochgewachs<br />
3960 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2006 8 8 Lovely wine, with great balance and finesse.<br />
Cellar Offering 174<br />
2904 Château La Prade, 2003 8 8 Fabulous wine. See note on page 5.<br />
AOC Bordeaux Côtes de Francs<br />
Bordeaux 2005 vintage<br />
See note on page 36.<br />
3967 Château Maillard, AOC Graves 2005 8 8 Typical 2005. Very fine, easy now.<br />
3968 Château Martinon Rouge, 2005 10 10 This is not a keeper and should be drunk.<br />
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur<br />
3969 Château Chante-Alouette, 2005 9 9 A regular on many Opimian Cellar Offerings because it<br />
AOC Fronsac always offers great value.<br />
3970 Château Moulin des Laurets, 2005 8 8 Deliciously ready.<br />
AOC Puisseguin Saint-Émilion<br />
3971 Château Vieux Clos Saint-Émilion, 2004 9 9 A château Opimian has followed in many vintages since<br />
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 1975. It is still a super producer.<br />
3972 Château Le Conseiller, 2004 8 9 One of the extraordinary wines from the cellar of Janoueix.<br />
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur Like all of his wines, it is both complex and concentrated.<br />
3973 Château Hortevie, 2004 8 8 Another long term favourite, Hortevie has now built a large<br />
AOC Saint Julien, Cru Bourgeois and international following. Very fine balance and harmony.<br />
3974 Château l’Enclos, AOC Pomerol 2003 9 9 Sheer delight. Rich, powerful and filled with soft fruit notes.<br />
3975 Château Haut Batailley, AOC Pauillac 2004 8 8 One of the great classified growths of Bordeaux. Owned and<br />
produced by Xavier Borie, the wine has great elegance, weight<br />
and supple complexity. Keep a bottle or two for a special day.<br />
3976 Château Berliquet, AOC Saint-Émilion 2003 9 9 Very big. Soft, attractive and drinkable.<br />
Grand Cru<br />
3977 Château Gloria, AOC Saint Julien 2004 9 9 This supple wine personifies the flexibility and class of the<br />
wines from the village Saint Julien. Now that the flavours are<br />
softening, it is time to open the bottles.<br />
3978 Château Poujeaux, 2003 8 9 Firm, strong and quite stalky. Blackcurrants with spinachy<br />
AOC Moulis-en-Médoc green leaves, smoke and earthy mushrooms.<br />
3979 Château Ferriere, AOC Margaux, 2004 8 8 A lesser known classified château from Margaux. Initially very<br />
Cru Classe fruity and soft, then there is the intrusive dryness of tannin.<br />
3983 Château Moulin de l’Esperance, 2005 9 10 Lovely, small wine. Neat, well structured. All of the fruit tastes<br />
AOC Premières Côtes Blaye together with the easy ripe tannin.<br />
3984 Château Roustaing, AOC Bordeaux 2005 8 8 Very typically Cabernet. Slow to mature, it still shows some<br />
roughness. There is real substance and volume of fruit.<br />
3985 Château de Fontenille, AOC Bordeaux 2005 10 10 Fresh, yet ready. The weight of the cherry flavours indicates<br />
that this is a fine example of the influence of Cabernet Franc<br />
on the palate.<br />
3986 Château Haut Nadeau, 2004 9 9 Very fine vineyard and winery have produced a fine flavour<br />
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur with a charming bell-pepper and cassis emphasis.<br />
3987 Château Carsin, 2005 9 9 In the many years since Mandy Jones made her first vintage<br />
AOC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux here, the property has never made a poor wine. This is huge,<br />
one of the best, and now it is perfect for drinking.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
3988 Château Plaisance, 2005 8 9 Although the vintage produced very ripe fruit, this has a<br />
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur solid wedge of tannin holding it back.<br />
3989 Château Tour de Gilet, 2005 8 8 How typical of the Petit Verdot grape. It has produced tons<br />
AOC Bordeaux Supérieur of black fruit, but the tannins are slow to release their hard<br />
and firm grip. Will improve further.<br />
3990 Château Maurac, AOC Haut Médoc, 2005 8 9 Old vine Merlot produced a big tannic wine in the early stages<br />
Cru Bourgeois of development, but the fruit softness has come through. Now<br />
it is deliciously comely.<br />
3991 La Fleur d’Or, AOC Sauternes 2002 8 9 Bill Blatch buys and blends small lots of cuvées and this is<br />
the result. Fine honey. Ripeness. Flowers, peaches and many<br />
spoons of sugar. A fine, golden coloured, sweet dessert wine.<br />
3992 Château de Malle, AOC Sauternes, 2003 8 8 One of Sauternes’ great properties. Totally sweet.<br />
Deuxième Cru Classé Balanced. A symphony of sugar with a high level of zesty acidity.<br />
3993 Bordeaux, Clos Sainte Anne, Vintex, 2005 8 9 Tasted and selected over a lunch of fresh lampreys in the<br />
Founders’ Choice farm kitchen. It was superb in the cask, but with the onset of<br />
supple maturity, the Merlot is making the quality clear. Very<br />
fine wine. Can be enjoyed now.<br />
3997 Château Richemont Rouge, 2005 10 10 The second wine of the property. Not very intense,<br />
AOC Bordeaux but it is pleasant and wholesome.<br />
3998 Château de Sours Rouge, 2005 8 8 Very good structure managing to tie the components<br />
AOC Bordeaux neatly together, especially the ripe cassis flavoured Merlot fruit.<br />
3999 La Source Rouge, AOC Bordeaux 2005 7 8 Concentrated. Fat. Although the palate is still very firm, the<br />
fruit is all there. Readily available, but well supported by the<br />
stringent tannins.<br />
4003 Château Fongaban, 2004 10 10 Drink this year.<br />
AOC Côtes de Castillon<br />
4004 Château Lafon, AOC Listrac-Médoc, 2003 10 10 Very enjoyable and fruity. Nice harmony of flavours.<br />
Cru Bourgeois<br />
4005 Château Haut Cabut, 2004 9 9 Coffee, chocolate and dried fruit. Time to use and enjoy,<br />
AOC Côtes de Blaye it is fully mature.<br />
4006 Château Labadie, AOC Médoc, 2004 10 10 Very enjoyable dose of dry fruit. The tannins are just a<br />
Cru Bourgeois touch dusty, but that is a normal function of aging. There<br />
should be no concerns.<br />
4008 Château de Cauze, 2004 7 7 Seems to be locked in a “no progress” mode. The tannin is still<br />
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru tight, the fruit hidden; it may always remain rather dry on the<br />
palate.<br />
4009 Château les Bois Noirs, Liquoreux, 2006 9 10 This was an unusal wine for Michel Baucé to produce.<br />
Sainte Foy de Bordeaux He is normally a red wine man, but this rarity is very<br />
successful and full-bodied. It is ready to enjoy.<br />
CHÂTEAU PIqUE-SÈGUE<br />
The property was originally purchased to allow Philip Mallard to indulge in his pastime of breeding pedigree Limousin cattle. But the<br />
planting of vines above the meadows started the Opimian relationship when Marianne Mallard introduced her juicy rosé. Since then we<br />
have come to appreciate all of the wines and different appellations that can, and are, produced on this large estate, which is one of the<br />
pre-eminent producers of the Bergerac region.<br />
4011 Château Pique-Sègue Blanc Moelleux, 2006<br />
AOC Côtes Montravel<br />
9 9 Rich and sweet. A very fine dessert wine.<br />
4013 Château Pique-Sègue Rouge, 2005 9 9 Little changed over the past year. It is soft, supple and<br />
AOC Bergerac enjoyable now.<br />
4014 Château Dauzan La Vergne, 2004 8 8 A very fine, stylish wine. Perfect spicy nuances. Roses,<br />
AOC Côtes de Bergerac coffee and a touch of liquorice.<br />
4015 Terre de Pique-Sègue, Anima Vitis, 2003 9 9 Lovely. Supple. Entirely ready, what grip remains is needed<br />
AOC Montravel to balance the lush fruit.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
1
20<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 175<br />
SOUTHERN FRANCE 2006 VINTAGE<br />
In general, the 2006 vintage was highly successful across the whole of the southern half of France. Fine weather conditions, with timely<br />
showers that refreshed the grapes after periods of intense heat, saved the quality from over-ripeness with a corresponding loss of<br />
acidity. All of the wines made by Louis Mandeville-Peirière on the Mondeville property were initially very slow to show any development<br />
of their aroma and flavours and, for two years, they appeared to be thin and tight with flavours more reminiscent of crushed stone and<br />
mineral than generous fruit.<br />
During the past year, the early reluctance to show development has turned around and they now offer much fuller levels of generosity, fine<br />
fruit characters with modest tannins that have softened considerably. All of the Louis Mondeville wines and those of the family domaine,<br />
the Domaine Peiriere, are now very approachable with reasonably easy fruit, modestly firm structures and (if not long) a clean finish.<br />
They are not made for long keeping, so should be used during this year. If some are left, they can be equally enjoyed through the next<br />
two years.<br />
4018 &<br />
4021<br />
Louis Mondeville Merlot 2006 9 9 Now much softer than twelve months ago.<br />
4022 Louis Mondeville Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 9 10 Attractive. A little stalky, but there are no problems.<br />
4023 Louis Mondeville Syrah 2006 9 9 Sturdy. Warming. Good level of fruit with notes of malic and<br />
tannic acidity.<br />
4024 Chardonnay, Organic, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2006 10 10 This has had a new lease on life. It is tasting well and full-bodied.<br />
4029 Domaine Peirière Viognier, 2006 10 10 This property never gets much beef into its Viognier.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc Rather thin and stalky. Nuances of unripe apple acidity give it<br />
some length.<br />
4030 Domaine Peirière Merlot, 2006 9 9 Merlot spice. Some piquancy. Black berries and hints of shrub<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc flowers. Deep down there’s a tough of liquorice.<br />
ALAIN GRIGNON, L.G.I.<br />
Notes describing the wines of Louis Mondeville are substantially appropriate for those from the individual cellars, whose wines are<br />
offered through the international négociant, Alain Grignon, one of the foremost experts in the wines of the Midi.<br />
4040 Domaine Mondie Syrah-Merlot,<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
2006 9 9 Delicious. Just about at its best now.<br />
4041 Domaine Fontjun, AOC Saint Chinian 2006 9 9 Ripe, structured, long flavoured and rather good. This is a far<br />
better wine now that its initial rush of tannin has softened and<br />
combined generously with the red fruit flavour.<br />
4042 Château Salitis Cuvée Premium, 2005 8 8 This is a perennial favourite. The wines are beautifully made<br />
AOC Cabardes and balanced, never showing any extremes. They have plenty<br />
of interest and body.<br />
4043 Domaine Castan Les Terres Rouge, 2006 8 8 These wines come from vineyards planted on the soils from<br />
Côteaux Languedoc extinct volcanic activity. They all have a note of tobacco leaf in<br />
their aroma, with fine strands of mixed black fruit emphasizing<br />
black cherry and plums on the palate.<br />
4044 Le Rouge de l’Azerolle, Minervois 2006 8 9 Harmonious. Rounded. Soft with a flavour of spice and ripe<br />
hedgerow fruit.<br />
4045 Domaine Barroubio Muscat, 2006 8 8 No need to hurry, Muscat with this amount of weight on the<br />
St Jean de Minervois palate, well balanced by the grape acidity, will last many years.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE<br />
When these wines were offered, the château was in the ownership of David and Catherine O’Brien. Over a number of years, the wines improved out of<br />
all recognition as David became more familiar with his art whilst at the same time the old tired stocks of wine were disposed of to the local cafes. As a<br />
race horse trainer, David was ranked at the summit in Europe where his famous horse, the Canadian born Nijinsky, son of Northern Dancer, was one of<br />
the most successful racers ever. David has now retired, but not before making these wines and those of the succeeding year.<br />
4047 Esprit de Nijinsky Rouge, 2005 9 9 Not long. Very lively. Drink now.<br />
Vin de Pays Côteaux du Verdon<br />
4049 La Source de Vignelaure, 2003 9 9 Beautiful wine. Full-bodied, rich and complete.<br />
Côteaux Aix Provence<br />
4051 Château Vignelaure, 2003 7 8 One of the best wines made here. David captured its entire<br />
Côteaux Aix Provence spirit in a wealth of balanced nuances featuring spice,<br />
garrigue flowers and black cassis.<br />
4052 Château Vignelaure, Aix-en-Provence, 2004 8 8 Lovely, fat and rich. Very complex. Tons of fruit and lush<br />
Le Page de Vignelaure, mouth-feel. This was the first time that we were offered<br />
Founders’ Choice the specially designed “Le Page” label, drawn one morning<br />
by Yves Saint Laurent, who had stayed the previous night,<br />
as a thank you token. The label remains exclusive<br />
to Opimian.<br />
4055 Saint Romain, La Combe Bazin 2006 8 9 Nice, but modest white Burgundy. The Chardonnay is still<br />
rather subdued and it has not developed the gorgeous “cream<br />
and butter” flavours that many Côte d’Or whites display.<br />
4056 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2006 9 9 Fine notes of Pinot Noir fruit. However, even though it is in<br />
perfect condition, it shows that this grape very rarely produces<br />
an exploding bomb of complexity. In fact, much more frequently,<br />
the activity is nearer to a damp squib. This is nice enough,<br />
typical, but not exciting.<br />
4057 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune 2006 9 10 A wonderful example of the Hautes Côtes, but it is quite a<br />
modest wine.<br />
4058 Saint Romain, La Perrière 2006 8 8 This is a lovely wine. Round, strongly perfumed,<br />
nice bottle-aged notes and long soft flavour.<br />
4059 Beaune, Les Bons Feuvres 2006 8 8 The best of the Burgundian bunch, but then it was their most<br />
expensive. Nicely made. Very clean, direct Pinot Noir nuances,<br />
cherry fruit, raspberry and lovely finish. It has smoke around the<br />
edges and moist earth, but that is what it is supposed to offer.<br />
4062 Côteaux du Layon, 2006 9 9 A long lived wine. Very good style. Nice soft fruit, all lifted<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier by the fine notes of residual grape sugar.<br />
4066 Touraine Emotion, Domaine Gibault 2006 9 9 Most of the Gibault domaine wines are at their best within<br />
24 months of the vintage. This is an exception and is showing<br />
good fruit and balance now.<br />
4067 Chinon, Domaine Charles Pain 2006 9 10 A private domaine whose wines are made by the Gibault<br />
family. An easy wine to drink. The fruit is dominated by the<br />
lively acidity. Drinking well now.<br />
4068 Saumur-Champigny, 2005 9 10 Made by an Englishman who spends much of his time playing<br />
Château de Chaintres cricket… in France! The flavours are refined, but it is perfectly<br />
ready and will not improve any more.<br />
4070 Pouilly Fumé, Domaine Jean-Paul Mollet 2006 8 9 This is a great estate with very good skills on parade. The<br />
wine is showing the harmony of the terroir and variety in a<br />
smooth and simple display.<br />
4071 Sancerre Blanc, Domaine Florian Mollet 2006 8 9 Fine notes of the white limestone and chalky terroir. The<br />
vineyards of Sancerre occupy a saucer shaped bowl that<br />
concentrates the sunshine, resulting in wines with lovely<br />
ripe and opulent Sauvignon Blanc perfume and flavour.<br />
4072 Sancerre Rouge, 2006 9 9 Light. Easy. Juicy. Quite high acidity. Little tannin, but a wine<br />
Domaine Florian Mollet that is a real pleasure to sip quietly. It is drinking well now.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
21
22<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 176<br />
4074 Stone Valley Chardonnay 2006 9 9 Lovely wine. Showing fine development.<br />
4075 Stone Valley Merlot 2006 9 9 No problems yet, but now is the time to catch its best times.<br />
4076 Stone Valley Chardonnay 2006 8 8 See Lot 4074.<br />
4077 Stone Valley Merlot 2006 8 8 See Lot 4075.<br />
4080 Gravel Bed Zinfandel 2005 9 9 Still looks, smells and tastes good. No special reason to hurry<br />
to finish it.<br />
4088 Butterfly Ridge Merlot, Lake County 2005 9 9 All these Lake County varietals have done very well. This is<br />
lovely now.<br />
4089 Butterfly Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 9 10 No better than last year, but no worse either. Continue to<br />
Central Coast enjoy<br />
4091 Granada Creek Syrah 2005 9 10 Well aged, it will be as lovely as ever. Good fruit. Full bouquet.<br />
Fine flavours.<br />
4093 Riverview Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 9 9 This has been a slow maturing, but good, wine. It has good<br />
Nappa Valley structure and is still in good order.<br />
4094 Riverview Pinot Noir, Carneros 2006 8 8 Lots of fruit. Good structure. This is a good example of what<br />
the Carneros does best.<br />
4098 Castoro Cellars Zinfandel 2005 10 10 Fat, full and rich. Tastes like a pan of stewed blackberries with<br />
a tannic buzz.<br />
4099 Castoro Cellars Merlot 2005 9 9 Spice, crushed pepper, leaves and cassis.<br />
4100 Castoro Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 8 8 Very big flavour. Not really much like Cabernet at all, it’s too<br />
big, but if you like full-bodied wines, you will enjoy this one.<br />
4101 Castoro Cellars Reserve Viognier 2006 10 10 Still OK, but it has very little by way of subtlety. It still has a big<br />
profile of flavour.<br />
4102 Castoro Cellars Reserve Pinot Noir, 2005 9 9 Too much fruit, too little by way of balancing acidity. It is not<br />
Bien Nacido a typical Pinot Noir; by the same measure it is not a bad wine.<br />
4103 Castoro Cellars Reserve Syrah, 2005 8 9 Will this last for ever? Probably not, but it is perfectly good<br />
Paso Robles now.<br />
4104 Paso Robles, 2005 8 9 The winemaker got his components nicely together and gave<br />
Castoro Cellars Reserve Tempranillo, this huge wine some mouth-filling weight. A very rich and<br />
Founders’ Choice extra large wine.<br />
4105 Carneros Chardonnay 2005 10 10 Far bigger, more fruit, than any Chardonnay to come out of<br />
France. If it is full of flavour, it has an unbalance that shows up<br />
in low acidity.<br />
4106 Red “X” 2005 9 9 Easy and soft. Enjoy this year.<br />
4107 Syrahtica 2005 9 9 The painted bottle looks garish, but inside there is a package<br />
of very fine fruit. Well balanced. Long finish.<br />
4108 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 8 9 This has matured more rapidly than expected when last tasted.<br />
Lovely now, it shows green leaves, black fruit and piquant spice.<br />
4112 Steltzner Vineyards Merlot, Stags Leap 2004 9 9 What can one say about Dick Steltzner’s reds, except to heap<br />
praise on them. This is perfect now.<br />
4113 Steltzner Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 9 9 Soft. Supple. Good structure. All of the parts fit into one glass<br />
Stags Leap with great power and harmony.<br />
4114 Steltzner Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 9 8 Supple and poised. Nice, dark, even colour. Fine grapey nose<br />
Estate Reserve, Stags Leap and fine biting tannins that produce long flavours.<br />
4115 Burgess Cellars Syrah, Napa Valley 2004 8 9 A very fine wine from a master craftsman.<br />
4116 Burgess Cellars Merlot, Yountville 2004 8 8 Tom Burgess has the ability to make wines with great<br />
authority and longevity. This is a beauty and will keep going<br />
for awhile yet.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4118 Burgess Cellars Library 1995 10 10 Aged and noble, the fruit is now just a touch powdery and<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena the colour is going towards garnet, but as an old wine, it is<br />
drinking perfectly.<br />
4119 Burgess Cellars Enveiere, Napa Valley 2000 10 10 Over the years this label has covered many great wines.<br />
In full maturity, this is spectacular, and yet, it is still showing<br />
surprising vigour.<br />
4126 Pelee Island <strong>Wine</strong>ry Vidal Icewine 2005 8 8 Succulent. Rich. Not especially showing honeyed features, but<br />
it is perfectly balanced with the acidity that is so necessary to<br />
retain its balance.<br />
4127 Pelee Island <strong>Wine</strong>ry, 2005 8 8 An amazing and rare experience. This will progress onwards<br />
Cabernet Franc Icewine for years to come.<br />
4129 Pardina, DO Carinena, Bodegas Victoria 2005 9 9 Made on the arid hillside vineyards underneath the Virgen de<br />
la Sierra monastery, it has nuances of pine that charm and<br />
augment the tannic fruit flavours.<br />
4132 Valpiculata, DO Toro, 2003 10 10 Beautiful wine. Now perfectly soft, the tannins rounded and<br />
Bodegas Valpiculata the fruit more of figs and prunes than berries, but delicious.<br />
4133 Perinet, DOCa, Priorato, 2005 9 9 Massive. Black. Dark, brooding and tough. Somewhere hidden<br />
Bodegas Mas Perinet away, there is a treasure trove of ripe fruit, but it is hard to find<br />
beneath all the life prolonging tannic acidity.<br />
Cellar Offering 177<br />
SERGIO TRAVERSO<br />
There has never been any doubt that Sergio Traverso is a true master in the winery. His winemaking skills have been proven over<br />
two continents and three decades. Originally, Sergio made wine in his native Chile, but before reaching his zenith, the politics intervened<br />
and he was forced to move, rather precipitously, to California. There he worked with Wente, eventually developing the epic “Murrieta’s<br />
Well” brand. Close to ten years ago, with democratic politics being fully restored in Chile, he returned to his native territory, re-establishing<br />
close links with many vineyard owners and becoming the senior winemaker for the gigantic Spanish wine company, Freixenet, who<br />
owned substantial vineyard holdings both in Argentina and Chile.<br />
4134 Novi Sub Sole,<br />
Sergio Traverso<br />
2006 8 9<br />
4135 Torrontes, Sergio Traverso 2007 9 9<br />
4136 Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Sergio Traverso<br />
2006 8 9<br />
4137 Syrah, Sergio Traverso 2006 8 9<br />
4138 Malbec, Sergio Traverso 2006 9 9<br />
4139 Blend 1314, Sergio Traverso 2006 7 7<br />
4140 Dubois, Brut Nature N.V. 10 10 Very good quality. Bubbly. No need to wait<br />
4141 Vivace Spumante N.V. 10 10 Ready<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
These wines have been made by Sergio to carry his own<br />
labels. They are substantial and full bodied, their structures<br />
leaning more towards balance and elegance than the weight<br />
that dominates many other Chilean wines. All Sergio’s 2006<br />
and 2007 wines are ready to be enjoyed – they have masses<br />
of fruit, but also feature the balanced easy tannins that provide<br />
them with good structure, but no great longevity.<br />
Enjoy all these examples of a craftsman’s artistry over the<br />
next two to three years.<br />
2
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
ARGENTINA’S FINEST<br />
Since Opimian forged links with the top Argentinean wine club, Club del Vino, selections have progressed from careful and conservative<br />
to innovative and exciting. Producers like O. Fournier and Mauricio Lorca are solidly positioned in the top ranks in the country,<br />
although with high international acclaim and reputation they are inevitably more expensive than other producers. Fortunately, such is<br />
the strength of our partner; we have been able to assemble a group of supporting bodegas whose wines are showing great potential<br />
and outstanding quality.<br />
4143 Malma Clásico Merlot,<br />
Vinedos de la Patagonia<br />
2005 9 9 Superb, cool climate Merlot showing delightful spice and fruit.<br />
4144 Urban Uco Tempranillo, O. Fournier 2005 8 8 Shades of northern Spain, Manuel Gil Fournier has made a<br />
real classic with even greater richness than his archetypal<br />
Ribera del Duero.<br />
4145 Urban Uco Malbec, O. Fournier 2005 7 8 Maturing slowly, but steadily. A great wine.<br />
4146 A Crux Malbec, O. Fournier 2005 8 8 Fournier’s top gun – this is huge, but balanced, and very long<br />
flavoured.<br />
4147 Fantasia Chardonnay, Mauricio Lorca 2007 9 9 Perfect, harmonious and showing a fine fruit/acid balance.<br />
4148 Fantasia Malbec, Mauricio Lorca 2006 8 8 A wine that shows how well Malbec has acclimatized here.<br />
4149 Ópalo Malbec, Mauricio Lorca 2006 7 8 Even more distinguished. Still developing its full potential.<br />
4150 Poético Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 8 9 Ripe and full-bodied. Good tannins, still show plenty of<br />
Mauricio Lorca gruff edges.<br />
4151 Anubis Syrah/Bonarda, 2006 8 9 This is as good an example of this uniquely Argentinean<br />
Bodegas Dominio del Plata blend as we have seen.<br />
4152 Cerro Azul Syrah, Bodegas La Guarda 2006 8 9 Nicely developed. Does not say much about Syrah, but an<br />
awful lot about fruit and vinosity.<br />
4153 Cerro Azul Bonarda, 2006 8 8 Good now. Soft enough to be entirely enjoyable. It has a<br />
Bodegas La Guarda very sturdy structure.<br />
4154 Don David Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Bodegas El Esteco<br />
2006 8 9 Very attractive and typical. Soft and ready.<br />
4155 Don David Tannat, Bodegas El Esteco 2006 9 9 One of the local grapes, Tannat is very tough and tannic when<br />
young, but this is now softening and losing colour, so drink this year.<br />
4158 Milyaroo Chardonnay 2007 9 9<br />
4159 Milyaroo Semillon/Chardonnay 2007 9 9 Beautifully held together by the slower maturing Semillon<br />
4160 Milyaroo Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 8 8 Entirely ready and perfect now.<br />
4161 Milyaroo Merlot 2007 9 9 Lovely, supple red charmer.<br />
4162 Milyaroo Shiraz 2007 9 9 Fine nose. Rather supple, good fruit. Modest level of tannin.<br />
4163 Richland Chardonnay 2007 8 9 Mouthful of melon and pineapple. Lovely notes of lime and<br />
lemon acidity.<br />
4164 Richland Shiraz, 2007 9 9 Good fruit. Easy. Hardly any tannin to support the structure.<br />
Drink this year.<br />
4165 “96 Points” Shiraz/Viognier, 2005 8 9 Very fine blend. Plenty of tannin, but enhanced by the acidity<br />
of the Viognier. Continue to enjoy.<br />
4166 “96 Points” Durif, 2006 8 8 A very uncommon grape outside this part of Australia, it is<br />
very successful here. Red fruit and muscular tannins.<br />
4167 “3 Bridges” Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 9 9 Very drinkable. Don’t keep.<br />
4168 “3 Bridges” Reserve Shiraz 2005 8 8 Marching on to maturity. Not fully ready, but drinking really well.<br />
4169 Westend Estates, Shiraz, 2006 8 8 Fine leather. Vanilla ice cream. Preserved cherries and bitter<br />
Langhorne Creek, Founders’ Choice chocolate.<br />
4170 Nulkaba Shiraz/Merlot 2006 9 9 Drink anytime from now onwards.<br />
4171 Riverwood Chardonnay 2006 9 9 Banana, melon, canned pears and white orange blossom.<br />
Good nose. Lovely fresh palate.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4172 Riverwood Pinot/Shiraz 2006 9 9 Holding up well. No sign of decline. Enjoy for several years.<br />
4173 Riverwood Shiraz 2006 8 8 This has grown fat and opulent. Nice black fruit, some<br />
cherries, but mainly blackberry and mulberry.<br />
4174 White “Trio”, Briar Ridge 2007 10 10 Hard to see this improving so drink soon.<br />
4175 Red “Trio”, Briar Ridge 2006 8 8 A normal three variety blend, but it has married well and tastes<br />
very well integrated.<br />
4176 Old Vines Shiraz, Briar Ridge 2006 8 8 Lovely wine. Shows how well this grape produces in the<br />
Hunter Valley.<br />
4177 Cold-Soaked Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 8 8 Gorgeous. Notes of elderberry and eucalyptus. Full of red fruit<br />
flavour. Should be fine for several years.<br />
4178 GMH “Meritage,” Limestone Coast/ 2005 8 8 Mature and lovely. Beautifully balanced. A blend made with<br />
Langhorne Creek great sensitivity.<br />
4179 GMH Shiraz, Langhorne Creek/ 2006 8 8 Another wine that shows that Geoff Hardy is a fine winemaker.<br />
McLaren Vale Leather. Stone fruit. Juicy, opulently ripe berries.<br />
4180 “K1” Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 7 7 Still has a way to go before it reaches its prime. Very good drinking.<br />
4181 “K1” Shiraz 2006 7 7 Just about ready to try the first bottle. Great concentration.<br />
4182 Viognier, Hastwell & Lightfoot 2007 9 10 New World Viognier doesn’t seem to get any better than this.<br />
4183 Chardonnay, Hastwell & Lightfoot 2007 8 9 A perfectly lovely, rich, fat and balanced palate. Long and<br />
persistent ripe fruit flavours.<br />
4184 Tempranillo, Hastwell & Lightfoot 2005 8 8 A very significant wine. The best of Australia’s Tempranillo.<br />
4185 Cabernet, Hastwell & Lightfoot 2004 8 8 Deeply coloured. Sturdy. Powerful aroma of red fruit, raspberry,<br />
rose petals and rosemary. Now opening up to deliver its promise.<br />
4186 Semillon/Chardonnay, “On the Billabong” 2007 10 10 Still enjoyable, but it will not improve.<br />
4187 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 10 9 Still has a few unfinished edges, but they will not go away and<br />
“On the Billabong” the wine will not get any better than now, so enjoy this year.<br />
4188 Chenin Blanc, Kloof en Berg 2007 10 10 Close to falling off the log. Drink it or lose it.<br />
4189 Ruby Cabernet, Kloof en Berg 2007 10 10 Sappy. Quite a jolly wine. Raucously expressed red fruit, as<br />
noisy as a night in Whitehorse.<br />
4190 Sauvignon Blanc, “Mount Vernon” 2007 10 10 Sensational wine and brilliant value for money, but this vintage<br />
needs drinking soon.<br />
4191 Chardonnay, [un-oaked], Hawke’s Bay 2007 9 9 Super. This is how Kiwi Chardonnay ought to be. Good acidity.<br />
Plenty of warm fruit – a mix of pineapple and melon with a<br />
dash of apple juice.<br />
4192 Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke’s Bay 2007 10 10 Perhaps past its best, but it is still a deliciously balanced mix<br />
of white fruit notes.<br />
4193 Merlot, Gisborne 2004 9 9 A red wine to show how much improved the red wines of<br />
New Zealand have become. Finely honed structure. Good<br />
integration of the fruit notes with the harder tannins.<br />
4194 Sauvignon Blanc, Tua Tua Bay 2007 8 9 Fabulous and not a day too late. Very fine balanced flavours<br />
4195 Gewürztraminer, Tua Tua Bay 2007 8 8 Let it run rather longer yet. The big tropical fruits are pointing<br />
towards how far they can go<br />
4196 Chamonix Blanc, Vallée des Vignerons 2007 9 10 Open and enjoy now.<br />
4197 Chamonix Pinotage, 2005 8 8 Lovely. Hearty, rustic stuff. No sophistication, but plenty of<br />
Vallée des Vignerons flavour.<br />
4198 “Sebastiaan”, High Constantia Vineyards 2004 7 8 Fine. Very interesting and rather a different flavoured red.<br />
Coming together very well.<br />
4199 Chardonnay, Clovelly Vineyard 2006 7 8 This is lovely. Almost enough to make one want to travel to<br />
the Cape for another glass. Finely poised fruit in perfect<br />
counterpoint to the acidity.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
2
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4200 “Triangle”, Clovelly Vineyard 2007 9 9 Jacques Fourie made this for early enjoyment. Now is the<br />
time.<br />
4201 Cabernet Sauvignon, Clovelly Vineyard 2005 8 8 Balanced and rich, it has full-bodied, heady flavours and<br />
succulent ripe red berries.<br />
4202 Wild Fig, Clovelly Triangle Estate 2007 10 10 Utterly raring to go. Made to drink within eighteen months of<br />
the grape harvest.<br />
4203 The Berry, Clovelly Triangle Estate 2006 10 10 Like its white counterpart (Lot 4202) it is made to drink<br />
young. Go for it now.<br />
4204 Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay, Rozier Reef 2006 10 10 Break out the bottles, take the cork-screw and start pouring. It<br />
won’t improve further.<br />
4205 Shiraz/Pinotage, Rozier Reef 2005 8 9 This has settled down nicely in the bottle.<br />
4206 Sauvignon Blanc, Rozier Bay 2006 10 10 Now is time to use the bottles that are left.<br />
4207 Merlot, Rozier Bay 2003 9 9 Like all of the wines from this small corner of the Cape<br />
Vineyards, it has developed quickly. This is not going to get<br />
any better.<br />
4208 Pioneer Blend, Mount Rozier 2004 8 8 A juicy, robust and easy to like red blend. It clearly owes its<br />
inspiration to Bordeaux, but the fruit is ripe, the tannins lower<br />
and the structure less firm.<br />
4209 Sauvignon Blanc, Riverstone Vineyards 2007 10 10 Top class when it was really young, but it is now fading.<br />
4210 Chardonnay, Riverstone Vineyards 2007 10 10 The fruit comes from the van der Merve’s own estate along a<br />
dried up river bed. This has made the wines very complex and<br />
ripe. Very rich and fine now.<br />
4211 Viognier, Family Reserve, 2006 8 9 A fat, almost oily textured, rich wine. A great alternative<br />
Riverstone Vineyards to Chardonnay, but without so much topicality.<br />
4212 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 7 7 Lovely wine. Big colour and bold bouquet. The palate is<br />
Riverstone Vineyards loaded with ripe notes.<br />
Special Offering 44<br />
4213 Sur le Dos des Caves, AOC Bordeaux 2006 7 8 A wine made by Sebastien Lamothe entirely and exclusively<br />
for Opimian. It is absolutely delicious.<br />
4214 Château de Sours Rosé, AOC Bordeaux 2007 10 10<br />
4215 Réserve de Sours, Sparkling Rosé, Brut N.V. 10 10<br />
CRÈMES<br />
There is an ancient tradition of manufacturing the rich crèmes and sirops made from hedgerow fruit in Dijon. They are amazingly<br />
concentrated, but when mixed with a white wine, particularly Bourgogne Aligoté, the result is noble. Cassis is well known as the<br />
foundation of the summer refresher, Kir, but other sirops can also be used to bring their own fine flavours to enhance the party.<br />
4218 Crème de Cassis de Dijon N.V. n/a n/a Blackcurrants<br />
4219 Crème de Mures N.V. n/a n/a Blackberries<br />
4220 Crème de Cerise N.V. n/a n/a Cherries<br />
4221 Petit Chablis, AC 2006 10 10 Should have been finished by now, but well stored bottles are<br />
still fine.<br />
4222 Chablis, AC, “Vieilles Vignes” 2006 8 8 Complex and full. The use of oak for maturation has added a<br />
further element to augment the chalky notes from the terroir.<br />
4223 Chablis Premier Cru, “Fourchaumes” 2006 7 8 Not yet ready. It is still very dry, little enhancement of the palate<br />
and very much flavoured by the chalky soil rather than the fruit.<br />
4224 Chablis Grand Cru, “Les Clos”, 2006 7 8 Typical of the best of Lamblin’s wines, this can be opened,<br />
Grand Cru Controlée but it can also last for many years.<br />
4225 Saint Bris “Sauvignon”, AC 2006 10 10 Somewhere between a sappy, green fruit Sancerre and a<br />
piece of chalk. Very attractive bouquet, good balance, a touch<br />
sharp and fruit deficient, but still drinks well.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4226 Bourgogne Chardonnay, AC, 2006 9 9 Good for three or four more years.<br />
4227 Bourgogne Aligoté, AC, “Fruits d’Été” 2006 10 10 Plenty of vigour. Good, perhaps at its best now.<br />
4228 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain, 2006 10 10 Rather tired. All of the sappy fruit seems to have gone on<br />
AC, “Raisins de l’Automne” a walk-about. It is still OK, but don’t wait much longer.<br />
4229 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2006 8 8 In most Canadian environments and to our palates, this is<br />
AC, “Bouquet d’Hiver” now ready. It will last, but better to enjoy soon.<br />
4230 Côte-de-Beaune-Villages, AC 2006 8 8 Good rich flavours and good level of fruit.<br />
4231 Volnay, AC 2006 8 8 Should continue to mature. Drink anytime from <strong>2010</strong> to 2014.<br />
4232 Aloxe-Corton, AC 2006 8 8 Quite well rounded, all of the sharp edges have smoothed<br />
away. OK for three or four years.<br />
4233 Gevrey-Chambertin, AC 2006 7 8 Rather more austere than 4232, but it will continue to soften.<br />
4234 Nuits-Saint-Georges, AC 2006 7 7 Has developed early, but well. No problem, although it is rather<br />
thin and lacks body.<br />
4235 Le Blanc de Blancs de Monsieur Lamblin N.V. 10 10 This lot should have been drunk by now.<br />
4236 Le Rouge de Monsieur Lamblin N.V. 10 10<br />
4237 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2006 10 10<br />
4238 Merlot/Cabernet, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2006 10 10<br />
4239 Domaine G. Thomas, AOC St. Veran 2006 8 9 Very fine. Good fruit. Showing fine creamy notes in the mouth.<br />
4240 Bernard Perrin, AOC Beaujolais Blanc 2007 9 9 Enjoy this year or risk losing its balance.<br />
4241 Domaine de Milhomme, AOC Beaujolais 2007 9 9 From one of the best estates of all south Beaujolais, but<br />
even from this lovely vineyard high in the hills, it needs to be<br />
opened young.<br />
4242 Domaine de Thulon, 2007 9 9 The Jambon family who make this wine never leave a stone<br />
AOC Beaujolais Villages unturned to make the best wine they can, but the wines do<br />
need to be drunk young.<br />
4243 Domaine de Thulon, AOC Regnié 2007 9 9 See Lot 4242<br />
4244 Domaine Dit Barron, AOC Brouilly 2007 8 9 Light and fragrant.<br />
4245 Domaine Desmures, AOC Chiroubles 2007 9 9 Amazingly good. No sign yet of loss of fruit or perfume.<br />
4246 Domaine Champagnon, AOC Chénas 2007 8 8 Stalky. Rich. Grapey. Still delicious.<br />
4247 Domaine Champagnon, 2007 7 8 Sturdy. Tannic. Gripping acidity. This is a song played at loud<br />
AOC Moulin à Vent volume.<br />
4248 Domaine du Vin des Poètes, 2007 8 8 Now as ready as it will ever be.<br />
AOC Morgon<br />
4249 Clos de Haute-Combe, AOC Julienas 2007 8 8 As always, the Audras family have produced a really fine wine.<br />
4250 Les Bataillons, AOC Fleurie 2007 8 8 Soft and accessible. Plenty of fruit. Good nose. The excitement<br />
of its youth is retreating as structure and length takes its place.<br />
4252 Gamay Noir, 2007 9 9 Very fine wine, but it is now ready and should be opened in<br />
Domaine le Carjot, Founders’ Choice <strong>2010</strong> or 2011.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
27
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4253 Vidal Icewine, VQA 2006 7 8 Surprisingly full, wholesome and very sweet, but still showing<br />
vigorous acidity.<br />
4254 Chardonnay 2006 10 10 Time to finish this off.<br />
4255 Cabernet Franc Reserve, 2006 10 10 Still a good glass, although the colour is turning browner and<br />
the fruit less obvious than before. Drink up now.<br />
4256 Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County 2006 9 9 Probably now at its best if not already in retreat.<br />
Cellar Offering 178<br />
PORT<br />
4279 Opimian Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000 n/a n/a<br />
[Unfiltered]<br />
4280 Opimian White Port Dry Aperitif N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4282 Opimian Tawny Port, Ten Year Old N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4283 Opimian Late Bottled Vintage Port 2002 n/a n/a<br />
[Filtered]<br />
4284 Opimian Crusted Port, Bottled 2003 n/a n/a<br />
4285 Opimian Late Bottled Vintage Port 1992 n/a n/a<br />
[Unfiltered]<br />
WINES OF THE DOURO VALLEY<br />
4286 Vinha do Meio Queijo, DOC Douro 2005 8 9<br />
4287 Churchill Estates, DOC Douro 2006 7 8 Fabulous wine of huge depth.<br />
4288 Serra Vinho Verde, Private Selection, DOC N.V. 10 10 Should have been enjoyed long ago.<br />
4289 Terra de Lobos, Quinta do Casal Branco 2007 9 9<br />
4290 Serra Private Selection 2006 10 10 Should have been finished by now.<br />
4291 Quinta da Barreira Reserva, J Gaspar 2005 8 8 Now ready to open.<br />
4292 Quinta da Chinchorra, DOC Douro 2004 9 9 Has reached its potential.<br />
4293 Cardeal Reserva, DOC Dão 2004 9 9 Made from Portugal’s finest grape, the Touriga Nacional.<br />
4296 Dorna Velha Tinta Barroca, DOC Douro 2005 9 9 Was very tough when first shipped, but has now softened up<br />
completely.<br />
4297 Vega Lara Selección Especial, 2005 8 8 Still has some tough notes, but it is worth trying a sample<br />
DO Ribera del Duero bottle.<br />
4299 Cyclo, DO Ribera del Duero, 2004 7 9 Still fine, and will go no through 2013.<br />
Bodegas Peñalba López<br />
4300 Montecastrillo Roble, 2006 8 8<br />
DO Ribera del Duero<br />
See general note<br />
on page 4<br />
4301 Torremilanos Crianza, 2004 9 9 Perfect maturity.<br />
DO Ribera del Duero<br />
4302 Urban Oak Ribera Roble, DO Ribera 2005 8 8 A wonderful wine from the Fournier bodega.<br />
del Duero, Bodegas O. Fournier<br />
4303 6 de Luberri, DOCa. Rioja 2006 9 9 Drink this year, it is more ready than waiting.<br />
4304 Faustino Selección de Familia, 2005 9 9 <strong>Wine</strong>s like these last forever, it is just that they don’t change<br />
DOCa Rioja very much. All oak, vanilla and old dark chocolate.<br />
4305 Primero de Fariña, DO Toro, 2007 10 10 Enjoy through <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
Bodegas Fariña<br />
4306 Gran Colegiata Crianza, 2001 10 10 Totally ready, but still a very fine wine.<br />
DO Toro, Bodegas Fariña<br />
4307 Gran Colegiata Campus, DO Toro, 2005 6 6 Still climbing towards its optimum. Lovely, quality wine.<br />
Bodegas Fariña<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4308 Convento San Bernardino Tempranillo 2006 8 9<br />
4309 Syrah de Jesús Díaz, 2006 7 7 Tough and tannic. Plenty of fruit to give a fine mouth-feel.<br />
DO Vinos de Madrid<br />
4310 Domino de Longaz, DO Carineña, 2005 8 8 Red wine of great quality.<br />
Bodegas Victoria<br />
4312 Opimian Viñas Viejas, Bodegas Luan 2006 9 9 Now ready.<br />
4313 Monasterio de Santa Ana Crianza, 2004 10 10<br />
DO Jumilla<br />
4314 Casa de las Especias Joven, DO Yecla 2006 8 8 Ready now. Beautifully ripe fruit flavours.<br />
4318 Montblanc 362 Cabernet/Merlot, 2005 6 7 Drinking well now.<br />
DO Conca de Barberà<br />
4320 Clos Montblanc Masia Les Comes, 2004 8 8 Fine wine from a very highly rated, high altitude vineyard.<br />
Cabernet/Merlot Reserva<br />
4321 Clos Mont-Blanc, Excelencia, 2004 9 9 Very tannic when offered, but that has now softened as<br />
Masia les comes, Founders’ Choice the wine aged. Now presents beautifully.<br />
4328 Mâcon-Lugny, AOC, Cuvée Prestige 2007 8 8 Strong notes of the chalky terroir.<br />
4329 Pouilly-Fuissé, AOC, Vieilles Vignes 2007 8 8 The vigour will go, but the palate has grown more attractively<br />
creamy.<br />
4330 Beaujolais, AOC, Cuvée Prestige, 2007 7 8 This was a specially chosen cuvée. It is perfect now and<br />
Les Genetières will not significantly improve, so enjoy this year.<br />
4331 Sylvaner Réserve, AC Alsace 2006 10 10 Ready.<br />
4332 Riesling Réserve, AC Alsace 2006 8 8<br />
4333 Pinot Gris Réserve, AC Alsace 2006 8 8 Very attractive now and will not improve.<br />
4334 Muscat Réserve, AC Alsace 2006 8 8 Really at its peak. It will go on a while yet, but for life and<br />
vitality, enjoy now.<br />
4335 Gewürztraminer Réserve, AC Alsace 2006 7 8 Developing fine character. Will continue to mature and<br />
increase in interest.<br />
4336 Pinot Blanc, AC Alsace, Médaille d’Or 2005 8 8 Full-bodied and rich.<br />
4337 Riesling, Grand Cru, “Schoenenbourg” 2005 7 7 Utterly sublime, the epitome of a great Riesling.<br />
4338 Pinot Gris, Grand Cru, “Rosacker” 2005 8 8 Perfect and probably will not improve.<br />
4339 Gewürztraminer, Grand Cru, 2005 7 7 If necessary this could be put away for another ten years.<br />
“Schoenenbourg”<br />
4340 Gewürztraminer, Vendages Tardives, 2005 6 6 Gloriously rich. Peaches. Apples. Fine acidity creating a<br />
AC Alsace perfect balance.<br />
4341 Crémant d’Alsace, Calixte Brut, N.V. 10 10 Enjoy at will, but do not keep.<br />
AC Crémant d’Alsace<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
2
0<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 179<br />
4342 Casa Nueva Limited Edition, 2006 7 8 Lovely wine. A perfect moment to open a bottle.<br />
Cabernet/Syrah/Carmenère<br />
4343 Casa Nueva Viognier 2007 8 8 A big, fat wine. Plenty of extract, but the flavour is entirely dry.<br />
4344 Casa Nueva Family Reserva Chardonnay 2005 8 8 It was great a year ago, it is great now. No requirement to<br />
rush for a corkscrew.<br />
4345 Casa Nueva Late Harvest, 2005 6 7 Very unusual wine. Honey. Orange blooms. Notes of peaches,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc but the green fruit of the Sauvignon is still evident.<br />
4346 Casa Nueva Carmenère 2007 8 8 Before we had Carmenère, we had many other varietals, but<br />
this grape added something special to the list. This is a lovely<br />
example. Can be enjoyed for another five/six years.<br />
4347 Casa Nueva Syrah/Carmenère Reserva 2006 8 8 Holding up well, but the Carmenère is taking more time than<br />
the Syrah, so it is a little out of pace.<br />
4348 Cornellana Sparkling Brut, 2006 10 10 Ready a year ago, it is still ready, but no point in keeping it<br />
Cachapoal Valley any longer.<br />
4352 Cornellana Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 10 10 Too ripe to be entirely typical. Rather rich palate. Losing<br />
Cachapoal Valley its initial attack.<br />
4353 Cornellana Chardonnay, 2007 9 9 Ripe and ready.<br />
Cachapoal Valley<br />
4354 Cornellana Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, 2007 9 9 Too rich to be entirely elegant but this is a delicious wine,<br />
Cachapoal Valley full of aroma and taste. Drink between <strong>2010</strong> and 2013.<br />
4355 Cornellana Chardonnay Barrel Reserve, 2007 8 9 Ripe and rich, there’s plenty of character here, but it needs<br />
Cachapoal Valley drinking before the acidity leaves the party. Drink between<br />
2011 and 2013.<br />
4356 Cornellana Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 10 10 Enjoy now, it has nowhere to go that would produce<br />
Rosé any improvement.<br />
4357 Cornellana Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 9 10 Like the Merlot, the fruit level is so high that it lacks tannin,<br />
Cachapoal Valley but it is soft and easy.<br />
4358 Cornellana Merlot, Cachapoal Valley 2007 10 10 Spirited and spicy. A beautiful soft red with fruit oozing around<br />
every corner of the palate.<br />
4359 Cornellana Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, 2007 10 10 It has been a success throughout its short life, but that success,<br />
Cachapoal Valley based on vigour and fruit is going nowhere. Drink this year.<br />
4360 Cornellana Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 8 8 Good feeling of austere tannin. Fruit is perfect and fully ripe.<br />
Barrel Reserve It provides a full palate of sweet succulence.<br />
4361 Cornellana Carmenère Barrel Reserve 2006 7 7 Powerful and rich. It will get even better.<br />
4362 Cornellana Shiraz Barrel Reserve 2006 8 8 Very fine. The winemaker has produced a fine example of a<br />
classic grape.<br />
4363 Cornellana, Carmenère Gran 2006 7 7 Wonderful. A dark brooding colour introduces a dark heart<br />
Reserva, Founders’ Choice of ripe blackberry fruit.<br />
4364 Sergio Traverso Merlot, Curicó Valley 2007 8 8 We have been fans of Sergio since prior to his return to Chile.<br />
He makes wines as well there as he did in the Livermore<br />
Valley. This is a most delightful red of great charm and<br />
structure.<br />
4365 Sergio Traverso Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 9 9 Very ripe fruit, but it is a touch short in the middle palate.<br />
Curicó Valley<br />
4366 Sergio Traverso Carmenère, 2006 8 9 Normal service resumed – another great wine from the hands<br />
Alto Valle del Rio Claro of the master. Fine, stalky, tannic acidity makes a perfect<br />
partner for the black fruit.<br />
4367 Hacienda Maitenes Carmenère, 2005 8 8 From a high, upland vineyard producing plenty of tannin<br />
Alto Valle del Rio Claro that is holding up the maturation process. Try a sample this<br />
year.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4368 Mare Nostrum by Sergio Traverso, 2006 8 8 Sergio explained that there was plenty of symbolism in<br />
Curicó Valley the naming of this wine. It is marvellous now and will keep<br />
going for two or three years.<br />
4369 Sergio Traverso Notable Blend, 2005 8 8 As much as the title “Notable Blend” jars the perception of<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère the blend, it is still easy, soft and ready, and holding its quality<br />
well.<br />
4370 Duetto de Chile 1993 10 10 Both of these vintages were among the finest that Sergio ever<br />
(3 bottles each vintage) 2003 10 10 produced after his return to Chile. Both are more than ready<br />
to be enjoyed, perhaps the oldest is now past its best.<br />
4371 Expresión Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 10 10 Lovely. From a man who knows how to put a capital “F”<br />
Casablanca Valley into Flavour.<br />
4372 Expresión Reserve Chardonnay, 2006 10 10 The cool Casablanca Valley really does produce fine white<br />
Casablanca Valley grapes. This is most beautifully balanced. It needs drinking now.<br />
4373 Expresión Reserve Merlot, 2006 8 8 Softly delicious, yet it has good backbone and tannin<br />
Casablanca Valley to enhance the flavour platform.<br />
4374 Expresión Reserve Pinot Noir, 2007 8 9 There was a touch of doubt as to whether Thierry Villard could<br />
Casablanca Valley pull off a truly fine Pinot Noir. He did and it is found in this<br />
bottle. Ready to drink.<br />
4375 Expresión Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 9 9 Very soft and delightfully supple.<br />
Maipo Valley<br />
4376 Equis Gran Tinto, 2005 8 9 <strong>Wine</strong>s from two regions blending together seamlessly to<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot produce a wine with power and personality in a maelstrom of<br />
dark berry flavours.<br />
4377 Tanagra Syrah, Casablanca Valley 2006 7 7 Thierry Villard was determined to make people sit up and<br />
register the high quality of this wine. This is entirely Syrah and<br />
has many of the qualities of the finest wines of that grape<br />
from the Northern Rhône Valley.<br />
4378 Domaine Villabea, AOC Condrieu 2006 8 8 Mighty white wine with a tremendous complexity. It is so<br />
concentrated that it finds difficulty in achieving balance. It will<br />
last well, but frankly there is little point of holding on any longer.<br />
4379 Domaine Stéphane Montez, 2007 8 8 Another very big white. The Viognier from these northern<br />
AOC Condrieu vineyards is cropped at such a low level that the wine is<br />
difficult to balance with any degree of freshness remaining.<br />
4380 Domaine Berthet-Rayne, 2007 9 9 Lovely black wine now made by a father and son team.<br />
Cuvée Préstige, AOC Cairanne The wine is better for their joint effort.<br />
4381 Château de Manissy Rosé, 2007 8 9 Not absolutely necessary to drink this rosé when it is utterly<br />
AOC Tavel, Cuvée Fruitée young, but there is no point in hanging on to this any longer.<br />
4382 Domaine Villabea, AOC Côte Rôtie 2005 7 7 From a tiny estate, perched high on an arid outcrop, that<br />
produces wines of huge complexity and fullness of body.<br />
4383 Domaine Gilles Flacher, 2006 7 7 A year ago this needed time to harmonize. Now ready, it is<br />
AOC Saint Joseph delightfully easy, with fruit that tastes sweet on the palate.<br />
4384 Domaine du Murinais, 2006 9 9 Does not appear to be improving and the fruit level is<br />
AOC Crozes Hermitage only modest. Drink this year.<br />
4385 Domaine des Romarins, 2006 8 8 Without argument, this is one of the finest of all the wines<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône of this appellation.<br />
4386 Domaine Vincent Rochette, 2006 8 8 Still good for a couple of years.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône<br />
4387 Domaine des Romarins, « Signargues » 2006 7 8 This comes from another great Opimian father and son<br />
team. The Fabres are widely recognized for the outstanding<br />
quality of their wines, all made under the watchful eye of<br />
great-grandfather Fabre.<br />
4388 Domaine du Val des Rois, Valréas 2006 8 8 Now offering lovely, soft, jammy perfume and black cherry fruit<br />
flavours.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
1
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4389 Domaine Vincent Rochette, AOC Visan 2006 7 7 The producer is a live Jack-in-a-box, but his wines are much<br />
more approachable and will last for several more years.<br />
4390 Domaine des Côteaux des Travers, 2006 9 9 <strong>Wine</strong>maker Robert Charavin was known for the outstanding<br />
Réserve Rasteau quality of his wines more than thirty years ago. He still enjoys<br />
the same reputation for balanced fruit, tannin and harmony.<br />
4391 Domaine Berthet-Rayne, « Tradition », 2006 8 8 Lovely nose, rather like a whiff of the pepper mill mingling<br />
AOC Cairann with the perfumes of black fruits in the jam pot.<br />
4392 Château de Montmirail, Le Graminier, 2006 8 8 Produced by an extended family team, this is the finest estate<br />
AOC Gigondas wine of a fine village. Young. Succulent. A partnership of ripe<br />
fruits.<br />
4393 Domaine Maître Curnier, 2006 8 9 Ripe, round and ready.<br />
AOC Vacqueyras<br />
4394 Domaine Ferme Saint-Martin, 2006 7 8 One of the slowest wines to develop of all the many vineyards<br />
AOC Beaumes de Venise and villages of the southern Rhône.<br />
4395 Domaine des Cigalons, 2006 7 7 Having reached early adulthood, this deserves to be allowed<br />
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape to slumber on, gaining authority as its aggression fades.<br />
4396 Château de Manissy, AOC Lirac 2006 8 8 Fine wine of a much neglected region.<br />
4397 Domaine Ferme Saint-Martin, 2006 8 9 Lovely. Soft. Round and delightfully fruity.<br />
« La Gérine », AOC Côtes du Ventoux<br />
4398 Domaine de la Roche, 2007 10 10 Drink during <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
AOC Costières de Nîmes<br />
4400 Les Chanterelles, Grenache-Sauvignon, 2007 10 10<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4401 Domaine Mas de Beaulieu, Viognier, 2007 10 10 Perfectly ready<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4402 Les Chanterelles, Syrah–Grenache, 2007 10 10 Remains an attractive red.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4403 Domaine Mas de Beaulieu, Syrah, 2007 9 9 Good wine with attractive balance and light structure.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4404 Côte Rôtie “Du Peloux”, AOC Côte Rôtie 2006 7 7 Softening. The fruit is becoming more forceful, while the<br />
tannins are softer and more approachable.<br />
4405 Les Truffières, AOC Côteaux du Tricastin 2007 10 10 Still an attractive drink for less formal occasions.<br />
4406 Cornas, AOC Cornas 2002 9 9 We were lucky to prize this lot from the museum stocks. It is<br />
deliciously mature and soft.<br />
4407 Les Boisières, Terroirs de Talents, 2007 9 9 Ready now.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône, Selection Fruitée<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4408 Les Boisières, Terroirs de Talents, 2007 9 9 Drink now.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône, Selection Corsée<br />
4409 Domaine de Montbayon, 2007 6 7 Forward and easy in the mouth. No problem to keep for<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages another year or two.<br />
4410 Vacqueyras, AOC Vacqueyras, 2005 8 9 Now it is soft, easy and attractively ready.<br />
Jérôme Seguin<br />
4411 Les Lavandines, AOC Côtes du Ventoux 2007 9 9 Still drinking well, although it should be finished before the<br />
end of the year.<br />
4412 La Haute Brulière, 2007 9 9 Ready. Easy and not likely to get any better than now.<br />
AOC Côtes du Luberon<br />
Cellar Offering 180<br />
4413 “K7” Cuvée, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2006 8 8 An amazingly good red wine blend. Good structure.<br />
Fine harmony. Plenty of fruit. A really good surprise.<br />
4414 Grüner Veltliner, Qualitätswein, 2007 8 9 What an enigma – it is either a wine to be drunk within<br />
Neusiedlersee months of bottling or it can be put aside. On balance, it would<br />
be best to finish this during <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
4415 Pinot Blanc, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2007 10 10 Hopefully there is very little of this left. It has already passed<br />
“Go”.<br />
4416 Riesling, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2007 8 8 Fresh. Clean. Not very much flavour, but it is pure and<br />
practically dry.<br />
4417 Trockenbeerenauslese, Neusiedlersee 2006 5 8 At a rough estimate, this has about 48 years to go.<br />
4418 Rosé Cèléste, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2007 10 10 Hope there is none of this left. It should have been opened<br />
last year.<br />
4419 Pinot Noir, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2004 10 10 Matured quite quickly once the freshness declined. Enjoy now.<br />
4420 Ruppertsberger Hofstück, 2007 6 7 Like many Gewürztraminer wines, it is taking a long time to<br />
Gewürztraminer Kabinett develop. However, it is lovely and can well be opened during<br />
the coming year.<br />
4421 Ruppertsberger Nussbien, 2007 9 9 Perfect for today and for two or three more years.<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
4422 Gimmeldinger Meerspinne, 2007 8 8 Has not yet reached maturity, but will be at its most<br />
Riesling Spätlese vigorous this year.<br />
4423 Ruppertsberger Nussbien, 2007 8 8 Still shows youthful colour and little sign of ageing.<br />
Riesling Kabinett Very good now<br />
4424 Rüdesheimer Riesling Kabinett, 2007 8 8 Better to be enjoyed during <strong>2010</strong>/ 2011.<br />
Blue Label<br />
4425 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling, 2007 8 8 It is only through an annual review that one notes how slowly<br />
Hochgewächs these fine German wines progress. This is superb now.<br />
4426 Bernkasteler Badstube, 2007 7 8 Simply lovely, elegant and mild. Charming balance.<br />
Riesling Auslese, Estate Bottled<br />
4427 Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch, 2001 7 9 Fabulous, quite exceptional.<br />
Weissburgunder Beerenauslese<br />
4428 Semeli White, Attika TO 2007 10 10<br />
4429 Thyoni, Mantineia OPAP 2007 10 10 Ready now.<br />
4430 Orinos Helios, Nemea 2005 8 8 Good wine. The bouquet has grown steadily and in the palate<br />
it is sumptuously rich. Ready now.<br />
4431 Moscofilero White, 2007 10 10 As a fledgling, this was one of the most exciting wines of<br />
Vin de Pays du Peloponnese the year. Still good, but the vivid freshness has dimmed. Drink<br />
this year.<br />
4432 Saint George Nemea, AOC Nemea 2006 7 7 Approachable now, but will develop with time.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4433 Prosecco Brut, N.V. 10 10 Ready on the day it was labelled. In fact, these wines are only<br />
DOC Montello e Colli Asolani fun to drink when they are full of youth.<br />
4434 Chardonnay, 2006 10 10 Has progressed quickly, to the point where it is at its peak.<br />
DOC Montello e Colli Asolani<br />
4435 Manzoni Bianco, IGT Colli Trevigiani 2004 10 10 Very mature. Should be opened this year.<br />
4436 Verduzzo, IGT Colli Trevigiani 2006 9 10 Wants drinking within the next year.<br />
4437 Cabernet, DOC Montello e Colli Asolani 2005 8 8 Well married, all the partners have come together well.<br />
4438 Merlot, DOC Montello e Colli Asolani 2005 8 9 To be enjoyed over the next eighteen months<br />
AGRICOLE RIzzELLO, S.P.A., CELLINO SAN MARCO<br />
<strong>Wine</strong>s designated by the Lot Numbers 4439 – 4444 all come from a producer in the deepest south-eastern corner of Italy, from an<br />
area referred to as the “Heel of Italy”. The terroir is moderately rich, with soil made up of degraded volcanic outflows. Over the millennia,<br />
that has become mixed with sand and limestone, providing a perfect terroir for the unique local grape varieties. All of the wines, both<br />
white and red, have wonderfully elevated concentration and flavours. The red wines often offer a touch of residual sugar and have huge<br />
colour, while the early maturing whites are full of flavour and full-bodied structure.<br />
4439 Malvasia Bianca Salento, IGT 2007 10 10 Drink while fresh.<br />
4440 Negroamaro Salento, IGT 2006 10 10 Quite ready.<br />
4441 Primitivo Salento, IGT 2006 9 9 A monster in sheep’s clothing. Very easy.<br />
4442 Primitivo di Manduria, DOC 2006 8 9 Simple but huge. Rich, opulent grape flavours.<br />
4443 Salice Salentino Riserva, DOC 2005 8 9 Marvellous. Very fine balance.<br />
4444 Cirò Classico, DOC 2006 7 7 Hardly changed in two years. Still rich and full, yet it does<br />
need more time.<br />
4445 Pinot Grigio, DOC Alto Adige, 2007 10 10 The essence of Pinot Grigio lies in its fresh fruit and zesty<br />
E. Von Keller acidity. To capture these qualities, it must be enjoyed when<br />
young. Drink remaining bottles soon.<br />
4446 Pinot Bianco, DOC Alto Adige 2006 10 10 One of the best examples of this relatively rare vine. Close to<br />
losing its grip.<br />
4447 Soave Classico, DOC 2007 10 10 Very light. Tastes a little like an oriental pear. If the colour is<br />
still light, enjoy it now.<br />
4448 Valpolicella Classico, DOC 2007 10 10 Should have been opened by now.<br />
4449 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, 2004 7 7 Thick, sweet tasting fruit, but dry in the mouth. Powerful<br />
DOC prune and plum nose. Long life.<br />
4450 Bardolino, DOC 2007 10 10 Very small and thin. Has lost a lot of its early energy.<br />
4451 Merlot delle Venezie, IGT 2007 10 10 Open this year, no benefit in holding on.<br />
4452 Valpolicella Classico 2005 8 8 Luscious notes of figs and prunes. Lovely, full flavoured<br />
Superiore “Ripasso”, DOC and soft as velvet.<br />
4453 Orvieto Classico, DOC 2007 10 10 Use now before it begins to oxidize.<br />
4454 Sangiovese Toscano Rosso, IGT 2007 8 8 Ready to drink now, more for its fruit than its weight.<br />
4455 Chianti, DOCG 2007 8 8 Soft and supple tannin. Good fruit. Ready.<br />
4456 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, DOC 2007 7 8 Rough and tannic. Very earthy and agricultural. Great wine<br />
with a rustic country stew.<br />
4457 Vernaccia di San Gimignano, DOCG 2007 10 10 When old, this is a horrible wine. So don’t delay, enjoy it now!<br />
4458 Chianti Colli Senesi, DOCG 2007 7 7 Still needs more time.<br />
4459 Morellino di Scansano, DOC, 2007 7 7 A recently popular area with top growers. Everyone seems<br />
Tenuta Le Preselle to be buying land here, and interest in the palate shows why.<br />
Fine balance. The Sangiovese characters are nicely lifted.<br />
4460 Chianti Classico, DOCG, Fagnano 2006 7 8 Lovely, ready now.<br />
4461 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, DOCG, 2005 7 7 This is still heading for maturity, but taking its time. Don’t worry,<br />
Cerraia it will arrive and all of the tannins will become much easier.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4462 Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG 2003 8 8 A beautifully made wine, this shows why Brunello has such<br />
wide appeal. Will last for years.<br />
4463 Cajo, IGT Umbria 2005 7 7 Still shut in. Tough, roughly tannic.<br />
4466 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, 2007 10 10 Drink up, it is not going to get any better.<br />
DOC<br />
4467 Rosso Piceno, DOC 2007 8 9 Rather acidic, even too acidic, but that is typical of wine from<br />
this region. Made with two grapes, one soft and supple, the<br />
other as hard as nails. Taking time to find harmony between<br />
the two.<br />
4468 Barbera d’Alba, DOC 2006 8 8 Still not entirely mature, but it is open and balanced.<br />
4469 Dolcetto d’Alba, DOC 2007 8 9 Almost sweet, but the attraction lies in the up-front fruit level.<br />
4470 Barbaresco, DOCG 2004 7 7 Moving slowly towards maturity. Very fine example.<br />
4471 Nebbiolo d’Alba Bricco Reala, DOC 2005 7 8 Very dark. Showing smoky notes of red berries. Nose shows<br />
leather and tobacco leaves<br />
4472 Barolo, DOCG 2004 8 8 Huge, dark wine with deep, hidden complexities that need<br />
careful tasting to join the party. Lovely subtle wine.<br />
4473 Castello delle Femmine, IGT 2006 7 8 Very big wine from the fairytale landscape of Campania,<br />
not far from Mont Vesuvius, close to Capri and the<br />
beautiful Amalfi coastline. Very full-bodied, soft wine with<br />
plenty of black fruit.<br />
4474 Ischia Rosso, “I Mari”, DOC 2007 7 8 Good fruit. Quite soft. Attractive fruity bouquet.<br />
4475 Aglianico, “Le Fantasie”, IGT 2007 7 7 Comes from the top winery of Ischia. The quality of the wine<br />
reflects the position of the winery.<br />
4476 Venas Rosso, “Terra degli Osci”, IGT 2007 9 10 One of Italy’s island wines. Big and still needing time.<br />
4477 Insolia Sicilia, “Carinda”, IGT 2007 9 9 Fine white. Ready now.<br />
4478 Syrah Sicilia, “Ruggiero” 2006 8 8 Very fine. Interested flavours. Still developing.<br />
4479 Castello Del Terriccio, Capannino, 2006 7 7 Lovely wine. Finding really memorable Chianti Classico is<br />
Toscana IGT, Founders’ Choice a labour of love, but this wine ticked all the boxes.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 181<br />
the “Stellar” vintage of Bordeaux, 2005 By Kenneth Christie, M.W.<br />
A large number of the wines in this offering came from the wonderful vintage of 2005. As I have a home in southern Europe, I was able<br />
to visit Bordeaux on many occasions throughout the whole of the early growing season, the flowering, the development of the fruit and the<br />
period of the eventual harvest. Day after day, and week after week, the weather was close to perfect for the vines and grapes. Sometimes<br />
temperatures reached high levels that tended to over-ripen and partially dehydrate the fruit. This was balanced by some welcome showers in<br />
September that allowed the fruit to recover and for all of its components – sugar, acidity, solids and tannins – to reach perfect maturity at the<br />
same moment.<br />
One morning in late September, I stood overlooking the grape crusher at Château Léoville Barton in Saint Julien, Médoc. The team members<br />
designated to take out any rotten or imperfectly ripened bunches stood idly by, as practically all of the fruit was perfect and needed none of<br />
their attention.<br />
Four and a half years after that warm early Autumnal moment when the wines were born, (they have now been in bottle for more than two<br />
years) their components have settled down and joined in harmony and they have emerged from the post bottling period of “bottle sickness”,<br />
a time when aroma and flavour retreats and the wines appear dumb. Now we can see how good they are.<br />
First, they are not truly typical of Bordeaux from an average vintage. The tangible, testable extracted fruit characters are higher than normal<br />
and they have plenty of ripe berry notes that seem closer to Sonoma than Saint-Émilion. Tannins are ripe, the balance is assured, and these<br />
are wines that quite clearly come from a very “senior” vintage.<br />
As is normal with such wines, from the most expensive to the more modestly priced, they are very easy to enjoy as their fruit is so accessible.<br />
They are also wines with plenty of weight and concentration that will allow them to be put away, lying on their sides, if possible within their<br />
original cases or cartons as the packaging provides good insulation against rapid temperature changes. They can then be stored until you<br />
decide they are perfect for you. That is, of course, the moment when you will decide that you should have purchased more of this delicious vintage.<br />
4483 Château Saint-Christoly, Cru Bourgeois, 2005 7 7 Drink through to 2015.<br />
AC Médoc<br />
4484 Château Haut Bergeron, AC Sauternes 2005 6 8 Great pleasure, will last forever.<br />
4485 Château Les Dames de la Renardière, 2006 8 9 Good wine, well made.<br />
AC Entre-Deux-Mers<br />
4486 Château les Bois Noirs, AC Bordeaux 2007 8 9 Progressing towards softness. Not very intense.<br />
4487 Château Les Dames de la Renardière 2005 7 7 Leave awhile for it to develop and broaden its flavours.<br />
4488 Château le Pré de la Lande, Cuvée Diane 2005 7 7 Very nice, small wine. Perfectly harmonious.<br />
4489 Château Lavergne, AC Côtes de Castillon 2005 8 8<br />
4490 Château Le Breuil, AC Côtes de Bourg 2005 7 7 Good wine. Well balanced.<br />
4491 Château Viramon, 2006 6 7 Showing well and will continue for a good number of years.<br />
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru<br />
4492 Château Ferrand, AC Pomerol 2006 6 7 Will last well into the late teens of this decade.<br />
4493 Château du Vallier, AC Premières Côtes 2005 8 8 Very fine wine. Good extract. Balanced and harmonious.<br />
de Bordeaux, Founders’ Choice<br />
4494 Château Pique-Sègue Blanc, 2007 9 10 Ready now.<br />
AC Montravel<br />
4495 Château Pique-Sègue Blanc 2007 7 7<br />
4496 Château Pique-Sègue Rosé, AC Bergerac 2007 10 10 Drink very soon.<br />
4497 Château Pique-Sègue Rouge, 2006 7 8 Very good. One of the best wines from one of Bergerac’s<br />
AC Bergerac finest properties.<br />
4498 Château Dauzan la Vergne, 2005 6 7 Much better than it appears at earlier tastings. Drink between<br />
AC Côtes de Bergerac 2012 and 2016.<br />
4499 Terre de Pique-Sègue, « Anima Vitis », 2004 7 8 Now very fine and ready.<br />
AC Montravel<br />
4500 Château Dauzan la Vergne 1996 10 10<br />
(2 bottles each vintage) 1999 9 10 Mixed case. All three vintages are mature.<br />
2000 8 9<br />
4501 Château Richemont Blanc, AC Bordeaux 2006 8 8 Drink through <strong>2010</strong> and 2011.<br />
4502 Château de Sours Blanc, AC Bordeaux 2006 8 8<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4503 La Source Blanc, AC Bordeaux 2006 7 7 Highly concentrated flavours. Big wine. Very attractive<br />
complexity.<br />
4504 Château Richemont Rouge, AC Bordeaux 2006 7 8 Classy, but quite small.<br />
4505 Château de Sours Rouge, AC Bordeaux 2006 7 8 One of the best of the Appellation. Drink through to 2014.<br />
4506 La Source Rouge, AC Bordeaux 2006 5 7 Huge wine. Made to last. Enjoy when a sample suggests it is<br />
ready.<br />
4507 Château Martinon Blanc, 2007 10 10 Open now or lose it. Great wine from a small place.<br />
AC Entre-Deux-Mers<br />
4508 Prince Pirate Rouge, N.V. 10 10 Bottled for our 35 th Anniversary, and that has long gone.<br />
« Cuvée Le 35ième »<br />
4509 The Opimian Society’s Claret, N.V. 8 9 Still very good, but it needs drinking. Enjoy within the year.<br />
AC Bordeaux<br />
4510 Château Malbiche, 2005 7 7<br />
AC Premières Côtes de Bordeaux<br />
4511 Château Haut-Sociondo, 2006 8 9 No profit if delaying. Open and enjoy this year.<br />
AC Premières Côtes de Blaye<br />
4512 Château de la Dauphine, AC Fronsac 2005 6 7<br />
4513 Château Martinon Rouge, 2006 7 8 Brilliant wine from an estate known to us for more than<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur 35 years.<br />
4514 “20 Mille” de J-P Janoueix, 2005 5 7 A crazy wine for lovers of the outstanding.<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur<br />
4515 Château La Croix Mouton, 2004 7 8<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur<br />
4516 Château Moulin des Laurets, 2006 7 8 Young, but it is now just about perfect.<br />
AC Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion<br />
4517 Château Citran, AC Haut-Médoc 2005 7 7<br />
AC Puisseguin-Saint-Émilion<br />
4518 Château Sainte-Colombe, 2005 7 7<br />
AC Côtes de Castillon<br />
4519 Château Vieux Clos Saint-Émilion, 2006 6 7 This château provided our first ever en primeur offer. It is<br />
AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru as good now as then, and it will last for several years.<br />
4520 Château La Confession, 2004 7 7 Unready. Immature, but still drinking beautifully.<br />
AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru<br />
4521 Château Labegorce, AC Margaux 2005 7 7<br />
4522 Château Les Cruzelles, 2005 7 8<br />
AC Lalande-de-Pomerol<br />
4523 Marquis de Calon, AC Sainte-Estèphe 2005 7 7<br />
4524 Château Lynch-Moussas, AC Pauillac 2005 6 7 Drink from <strong>2010</strong> to 2018.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
7
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4525 Château Brown, Pessac-Léognan, 2005 6 6<br />
AC Graves<br />
4527 Château de Marsan, AC Bordeaux 2007 9 9 Perfect now. Showing some age already.<br />
4528 Château Roquefort Blanc, AC Bordeaux 2007 9 9 No point in holding on.<br />
4529 Château Guirauton, AC Graves 2007 8 8 This has progressed rapidly. Ready soon.<br />
4530 La Fleur d’Or, AC Sauternes 2005 6 8 Delectable, delicious, sweet and sticky. Perfect with strawberries.<br />
4531 Château Puynard, AC Côtes de Blaye 2005 7 8 Ready.<br />
4532 Château Lescalle, 2005 8 8<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur<br />
4533 Château Vieux Dominique, 2005 7 8<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur<br />
4534 Château Roquefort Rouge, AC Bordeaux 2005 7 7 A small wine from vineyards between the copses and woods<br />
of Entre-Deux-Mers. This is a beauty.<br />
4535 Château Bel-Air La Chapelle, 2005 6 7 Very drinkable.<br />
AC Côtes de Castillon<br />
4536 Château Léonie, AC Graves 2005 7 8 Lovely fresh fruit, ripe and complex.<br />
4537 Château de Côme, AC Saint-Estèphe 2005 6 6 Lots of time left. Don’t hurry this one along. Be patient.<br />
Cellar Offering 182<br />
PROVENCE<br />
All the wines from Château Vignelaure were made for us by David O’Brien, the super talented, self-taught winemaker who left his first<br />
calling as one of Europe’s most successful racehorse trainers to become a winemaker, in the process returning Vignelaure to its former<br />
position as one of the two leading wines of Provence. Sadly, David sold the property to live in Australia, the home of his wife Catherine.<br />
These wines are the last that David made for us.<br />
4538 La Grande Pièce de Vignelaure 2006 8 8 Fine harmonious “Bordeaux blend.”<br />
4539 Esprit de Nijinsky Rosé 2007 9 9 A very fine pink wine, but it should not be held any longer.<br />
4540 La Source de Vignelaure Rosé 2007 10 10 Fresh and lively. Modest nose, but appetizing fruit acidity. Drink now.<br />
4541 La Source de Vignelaure Rouge 2006 9 9 Never intended as a long keeper, it has good acidity, but very<br />
low tannin. Open and enjoy.<br />
4542 Esprit de Nijinsky Rouge 2006 8 8 A big, jam flavoured palate shows that the tannins have<br />
receded and it is now ready.<br />
4543 Château Vignelaure, 2004 8 8 Has developed quickly. In fine condition and it will hold well,<br />
AOC Côteaux d’Aix en Provence but it is now showing its weight and structure.<br />
4544 Bourgogne Aligoté, AOC 2007 10 10 Should have all gone by now. The palate is now dull and rather<br />
coarse.<br />
4545 Bourgogne 2007 8 8 The best wine to be found of this appellation. Coming<br />
Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune Blanc, AOC around nicely to show the fragrance and softness of<br />
the fruit.<br />
4546 Saint-Aubin, 1er Cru, AOC, 2007 8 8 This is the perfect moment to open and enjoy this delicious<br />
“Vigne Moingeon” white.<br />
4547 Bourgogne 2007 7 7 Far better than its appellation, Billard really concentrates<br />
Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune Rouge, AOC on making this lesser appellation fine.<br />
4548 Auxey-Duresses, AOC, “Les Jonchères” 2007 7 7 Medium weight. Nice, warm, ripe fruit with a good structure<br />
that provides length in the mouth. Good.<br />
4549 Beaune, AOC, “Les Bons Feuvres” 2007 7 7 Outside of the Côte d’Or, the Pinot Noir is known to be a very<br />
difficult grape to work with. Here, it is done with ease. This is<br />
a deliciously complete example that will please for three or<br />
four more years.<br />
4550 Côte de Beaune Villages, AOC, 2007 8 8 Youthful, showing attractive aromas of forest leaves and<br />
Domaine Billard, Founders’ Choice bright red berry fruit. Supple and easy in the mouth.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4551 Crémant de Loire, AOC, N.V. 10 10 Quite delicious. Fine, chalky nuances from the terroir.<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier Good persistent mousse of fine bubbles.<br />
4552 Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine, 2007 10 10 Delightful. A ballad of light notes and harmonious extract.<br />
mise sur lie, AOC Fruity, dry, neat touch of dissolved CO 2.<br />
4553 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc, AOC 2007 10 10 Best of the Sauvignon estates on the south bank of the Loire.<br />
Penetrating, green fruit. Zesty, fresh acidity. Don’t spoil it by<br />
keeping it.<br />
4554 Côteaux du Layon, AOC, 2007 8 8 Flore and Emmanuel Rialland make simply delicious wines.<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier, This one can be kept, but it is stunning and easy now.<br />
4555 Caracter de l’Ansée, 2006 10 10 Very attractive blend, the interest of Chardonnay with the<br />
Sauvignon-Chardonnay attack of the Sauvignon acidity.<br />
4556 Pouilly-Fumé, AOC, 2007 8 9 This has developed well, but as far as it should, within<br />
Domaine Mollet-Maudry the bottle. It is now time to release it into a glass. Drink in<br />
<strong>2010</strong>.<br />
4557 Sancerre Blanc, Domaine Mollet-Maudry 2007 8 9 Still delightful, but it is not going any further. Enjoy its youthful<br />
energy.<br />
4558 Rosé d’Anjou, AOC, 2007 10 10 Another lovely wine from the Riallands, but like others,<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier it is best enjoyed when young.<br />
4559 Touraine Friandise, Gamay, AOC 2007 9 10 Perfect. Take all of the fresh tasting fruit and grab it while you<br />
can.<br />
4560 Touraine Emotion, Cabernet-Côt, AOC 2007 8 8 Ready now. No need to hurry, but finish it before 2012.<br />
4561 Sancerre Rouge, 2006 8 8 It takes a while to develop, and will never be other than subtle<br />
Domaine Mollet-Maudry and well rounded.<br />
4564 Cuvée Lagarde, 2007 10 10 Terrific value. Intended to be opened within 24 months of<br />
Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan the vintage.<br />
4565 Les Argelières, Chardonnay, 2007 10 10 Easy. Everything is in place and ready.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4566 Cuvée Lagarde, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault, 2007 9 10 Utterly ready and will diminish in performance during this year.<br />
4567 Le Rouge de l’Azerolle, AOC Minervois 2007 8 9 An appellation that produces much better wines than expected<br />
from the price. Grainy, rather stringy tannins, but plenty of<br />
easy ripe fruit.<br />
4568 La Campagne, Merlot, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007 10 10 Don’t wait, it is fine now.<br />
4569 La Campagne, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 10 10 Green and stalky. Not much fruit. Clean enough, but little<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc of interest.<br />
4570 Domaine Mondié, Merlot-Syrah, 2007 10 10 Enjoyable. Easy, soft, fine spiced notes at the entry to the<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc palate.<br />
4571 Château la Selette, AOC Minervois 2007 8 8 Big. Sturdy. Good structure.<br />
4572 Les Argelières, Syrah, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007 8 9 Perfect for enjoyment this year and through 2011.<br />
4573 Domaine Castan, Les Terres Rouges 2007 8 8 Surprisingly reticent. Good fruit, but still rather shut in the<br />
unfinished tannins.<br />
4574 Château Salitis, Cuvée Premium, 2006 7 8 This property is capable of producing great wine. This<br />
AOC Cabardès wine continues the tradition. It is quite soft and approachable<br />
with chewy tannins.<br />
4575 Château La Clotte-Fontane, 2007 7 7 Slowly softening, maturity is still a while away.<br />
Cuvée Mathiérou<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
0<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4576 Tortoise Creek, Chardonnay, 2007 9 9<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4577 Tortoise Creek, Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 10 10<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc,<br />
4578 Tortoise Creek, Viognier, 2007 10 10<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4579 Tortoise Creek, Grenache Rosé 2007 10 10<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4580 Tortoise Creek, Merlot-Cabernet, 2007 8 9<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4581 Tortoise Creek, Shiraz, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2007 8 8<br />
4583 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 9 9 Very simple. Attractive.<br />
Vigne Sauvage<br />
4584 Syrah Rosé, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 10 10 A light rosé that, like almost all modern rosés, is made for<br />
immediate gratification.<br />
4585 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 9 9<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
4586 Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 10 10<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
4587 Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 9 9<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
4588 Merlot, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 8<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
4589 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 9<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
4590 Syrah, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 8<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
The originators of Tortoise Creek, Melvyn and Janie Master,<br />
set out to create a range of classic varietals that could be<br />
bought and enjoyed immediately. Current winemaker, Xavier<br />
Roger, continues the philosophy with a fistful of easy, soft,<br />
fruity wines with supple characters that can charm the birds<br />
out of the trees. These are the perfect wines for people with<br />
limited space for storage. None of these wines have hard or<br />
excessive tannins and the whites are all ripe and opulent. Like<br />
the Californian wines of the same name, they are made for<br />
today and should not be ordered to be laid down or cellared<br />
for longer than a year after shipment.<br />
Louis Mandeville-Peirière works closely with Thierry Coulon,<br />
owner of the remarkable Paul Sapin winery, who bottles these<br />
wines. The intention of the partners is to provide a full range<br />
of southern and classic varietals, all capable of modest ageing<br />
and development in the bottle. As young wines, immediately<br />
after shipping, they are invariably rather dumb and show little<br />
expanded flavour. With a year in bottle, they begin to ripen and<br />
fill out. However, they cannot provide the substance found in<br />
the wines of single vineyard estates, but they are invariably<br />
clean, wholesome and surprisingly elegant.<br />
4591 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 8 Still has potential to ripen and broaden its flavours.<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
4592 Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 10 10 Lovely wine. Clean, sharp, vitally youthful and full flavours.<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
4593 Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 9 10 Delicious. One of the earlier plantings of a Viognier vineyard,<br />
Domaine Peirière the wine has full flavour and body.<br />
4594 Merlot, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 8 Medium weight. Stringy tannins. Cherries and plums.<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
4595 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 9 Rather lean, still shows little weight of fruit. It will never be full<br />
Domaine Peirière bodied.<br />
4596 Syrah, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 8 8 Very fine classical notes. Touch of chocolate, fig, rose<br />
Domaine Peirière blossom and cassis.<br />
4597 Pinot Noir, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2007 7 8 The market says plant Pinot Noir and growers follow that<br />
Domaine Peirière advice. It does not really do well here. This is attractive, but will<br />
never develop any great personality.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 183<br />
4598 Morningsun Vineyards Cabernet 2003 10 10 Fully mature, soft and pliable. Still good fruit.<br />
Sauvignon, Lake Country<br />
4599 Opimian California White N.V. 10 10 No longer much fun, as much of the freshness has gone.<br />
4600 Butterfly Ridge Chardonnay, 2007 9 9 Should have been opened by now, even so it is still a<br />
Central Coast good glass of vino.<br />
4601 Granada Creek Vermentino, Carneros 2006 8 8 Recently tasted. It was delicious, but has completed its<br />
pathway to maturity.<br />
4602 Butterfly Ridge Zinfandel Rosé 2007 10 10 Much of the vigour has gone and, unless it has been kept<br />
cool, it will be dull and lack-lustre.<br />
4603 Opimian California Red N.V. 10 10 Jolly good a year ago, it is still OK, but should be used quickly.<br />
4604 Granada Creek Syrah 2007 8 9 Drinking nicely. Good fruit. Warm and soft.<br />
4605 Butterfly Ridge Merlot, Lake County 2006 8 8 Good spice. Balanced, nice wine.<br />
4606 Butterfly Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 8 8 Well structured, soft, easy and absolutely ready.<br />
Central Coast<br />
4607 Butterfly Ridge Zinfandel, 2006 8 9 Still a delicious wine. It reflects well upon the vineyard.<br />
Clockspring Vineyard<br />
4608 Riverview Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 7 7 Lovely wine. Luscious fruit with a fine buzz of tannin to add<br />
to mouth-feel and interest.<br />
4610 “Pure” Chardonnay, Monterey 2007 9 9 Categorized as “Pure” by the winemaker – it is exactly that.<br />
Fine varietal flavours.<br />
4611 “Pure” Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake County 2007 8 8 You get what it says on the tin: Pure and Cabernet; lovely,<br />
but still improving.<br />
4612 “Pure” Merlot, Lake County 2007 8 8 Fine bouquet. Quite spicy. Liquorice and fruit. Nuances of<br />
bell-pepper.<br />
4613 “Red X”, California 2006 8 8 This is a “cracking” blend. It is enjoyable now, while continuing<br />
to develop in the bottle.<br />
4614 Nova Vineyard, Zinfandel, Lake County 2006 8 9 Still very drinkable, but needs no more time.<br />
4615 X <strong>Wine</strong>ry, Merlot, Napa Valley 2005 8 8 In spite of its years, it is still youthful, full of lively fruit and<br />
lovely floral notes.<br />
4616 “X3” Cabernet Sauvignon, Tri-County 2006 6 7 Great structure. Like the Christmas turkey, it is full of fruit stuffing.<br />
4617 X Amicus Reserve, Napa Valley, 2006 8 9 Fine. A wine that shows the calibre of the fruit and the artistic<br />
Founder’s Choice hands behind the winemaking.<br />
4618 Merlot, Napa Valley 2005 7 8 Very fine. Ready, but it still has the puff to keep it alive for<br />
several more years.<br />
4619 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004 7 7 This is typical Burgess wine – full of ripe fruit, still looks<br />
young, still acts like an adolescent, but it is destined to be a<br />
fine adult.<br />
4620 Enveiere, Napa Valley 2001 7 8 Wonderful wine. All together, big sunny fruit, packed with<br />
concentrated flavour.<br />
4621 Allison, Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County 2007 10 10 Don’t wait any longer.<br />
4622 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, 2005 8 8 A typical Stelzner wine, full of fruit juice. Strongly aromatic<br />
Napa Valley with a mass of convivial smooth tannins.<br />
4623 Cabernet Franc, Stags Leap, Napa Valley 2005 8 8 Although not a typical Cab. Franc, it is a typical Steltzner<br />
block-buster. Big, full-bodied and delicious.<br />
4624 Estate RMS Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 6 7 At last, it is now showing some softening and the onset<br />
Reserve Barrel Select of maturity. A great wine of outstanding weight.<br />
4627 Stone Valley Chardonnay 2007 10 10 Perfect. Balanced with clean fruit.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
1
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4628 Stone Valley White Zinfandel 2007 9 9 Ready.<br />
4629 Stone Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 9 9 Well structured and supple. Very enjoyable now.<br />
4630 Stone Valley Merlot 2006 8 8 A big wine, full of lively flavours. Big plums, cherries and spicy.<br />
4631 Cinnamon Grove Chardonnay, Lodi 2007 8 9 Very soft, accessible Central Valley fruit. Drink this year.<br />
4632 Hidden Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 7 8 Still rather tough, tannic, acidic, needs more time. Drink<br />
between 2012 and 2015.<br />
4633 Murphys Ridge Red Blend, N.V. 7 8 Fantastic wine of great power and penetration. Long in the<br />
Calaveras County mouth, powerful in the nose. Good to drink now with red meat.<br />
Better still to put it away for a couple of years.<br />
4634 Nth Degree Chardonnay, Livermore 2005 8 8 So big, so powerful, so concentrated and so filled with oak<br />
that it has to be approached with caution. This is California<br />
at its most memorable. Enormous power will keep it together<br />
even though it is lovely now.<br />
4635 Nth Degree Syrah, Livermore 2005 8 8 Colossal wine, so big that one needs a body building class<br />
before pouring a glass. With this it is not a question of mature,<br />
but softer.<br />
4636 Nth Degree Merlot, Livermore 2005 8 8 Has softened enormously and now shows lovely blackberry<br />
and cherry characters.<br />
4637 Nth Degree Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 7 8 This will stand up for at least ten years. Huge wine, very<br />
Livermore concentrated, but not complex. Just pure Cabernet fruit and<br />
oak notes.<br />
4638 Fumé Blanc, Paso Robles 2007 8 8 Full-bodied. More extract than fruit.<br />
4639 Chardonnay, Central Coast 2007 9 9 Lovely. Full-bodied, big flavoured, fine white. Peach, mango<br />
and tinned pears notes.<br />
4640 Reserve Viognier, Central Coast 2007 8 8 Big fat flavour. Dry palate, but the finish is fat and coats the<br />
palate with fruity extract.<br />
4641 Zinfandel, Paso Robles 2006 8 8 Very rich nose. Smoked meat, fine dense fruit and<br />
sirop de cassis. Perfectly ready.<br />
4642 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2006 8 8 Progressing in a huge profile, like a stately ocean liner sailing<br />
on towards maturity.<br />
4643 Reserve Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard 2006 7 8 Still a touch away from ready, but the palate is already soft<br />
and the fruit readily available in generous volume.<br />
4644 Vidal Icewine 2006 6 8 Amazingly fine, beautiful wine. Sufficient to make one believe that<br />
Vidal should be a Canadian classic. No need to rush this one.<br />
4645 Pinot Grigio 2007 10 10 Drink soon, it won’t get any better.<br />
4646 Sauvignon Blanc 2007 10 10 Less acerbic than a year ago. Fruit is losing its acidic attack.<br />
4647 Chardonnay Barrique 2005 8 8 Drink at will. It is delicious and shows the winemaker’s talent<br />
for white wines.<br />
4648 Chambourcin, Barrel Aged 2007 8 9 Should be enjoyed this year. No well defined characters. It has<br />
good fruit and balance, but short.<br />
4649 Gamay Noir 2007 9 9 Still showing well. Will hold up for a couple of years.<br />
4650 Cabernet/Petit Verdot 2007 8 8 Fruit and smoke in very attractive balance. Will drink for three<br />
to four years.<br />
4651 Agnus dei Albariño, DO Rias Baixas 2006 9 9 Terrific wine. Fine balance. The grape, Albariño, makes one of<br />
the finest dry whites in the world.<br />
4652 Dehesa del Carrizal MV Azúl, 2006 7 8 Very fine sunny red fruit, good weight mingles with<br />
DO Dehesa del Carrizal charming balance.<br />
4653 Fructuoso Tempranillo, 2003 8 8 Very fine, a red wine with enviable harmony and great length.<br />
Vino de la Tierra de Castilla<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4654 El Molinet, DO Valencia, 2006 8 8 One of the finest Valencia wines we have ever tasted.<br />
La Viña, La Font de la Figuera Spicy shrubs and wild berry fruit.<br />
4655 Solar de Sael, DO Bierzo 2006 8 9 Typical red Spanish grape: deep colour, raucous tannins that<br />
threaten to rip out tooth fillings, but it a mass of succulent fruit<br />
that gives appeal.<br />
4656 Ellinze, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2006 8 8 This is a real rough and tumble affair. Bright red fruit in colour<br />
and flavour. Acidic, showing full notes of mulberry and bilberry.<br />
4657 Comenge, DO Ribera del Duero 2005 7 8 Very tough. The tannins appear to be drawn as tight as a bow<br />
string with a mass of fruit waiting to get out and soften the<br />
palate. Put it away for at least another year until 2011 and<br />
beyond.<br />
4658 Arbucala, DO Toro, Bodegas Valduero 2005 7 8 Although the Bodega is from a different region, the<br />
winemaking is the same - assured, skillful and seamless.<br />
Ready but it can be cellared for several years.<br />
4659 Fornas Friulano, DOC Friuli Grave 2007 10 10 Lasting well beyond original assessment, it really does need to<br />
be drunk now.<br />
4660 Sartiano, IGT Umbria, Bigi SCARL, 2005 9 9 A blend, but it seems to have no focus on harmony as all<br />
Orvieto of the component grapes still appear separate.<br />
4661 Il Sodero, IGT Maremma Toscana, 2006 8 8 Lovely, big red beauty. Massed ranks of fruit line up to please.<br />
Tenuta di Moraia<br />
4662 La Sala, DOCG Chianti Classico 2006 8 9 From the best territory in Tuscany, the region of Chianti<br />
Azienda Agricola La Sala Classico. The Sangiovese has fine smoke and leather notes,<br />
superimposed on supple red fruit flavours. Delicious wine.<br />
Cellar Offering 184<br />
4663 Wild Fig, Clovelly Triangle Estate, 2008 9 10 Perfect, a shot in the arm. Lively flavours.<br />
Devon Vale<br />
4664 The Berry, Clovelly Triangle Estate, 2007 10 10 Jacques Fourie put this together for early enjoyment,<br />
Devon Vale so please do enjoy it now.<br />
4665 Chardonnay, Rozier Bay, Mount Rozier 2007 8 9 Produced from fruit grown water stressed vines on Adam<br />
Mauerberger’s steeply sloping vineyard, this is beautifully<br />
concentrated.<br />
4666 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 8 10 Pungent, though soft. A song of red berries, blossom and<br />
Rozier Bay, Mount Rozier hints of eucalyptus. A wine to delight soon. Drink this year.<br />
4667 Pinotage, Rozier Bay, Mount Rozier 2006 8 8 As rich and ripe as this grape can be. Good acidity, it is really<br />
good drinking now.<br />
4668 Zidela Rosé, Zidela <strong>Wine</strong>s 2008 10 10 Lovely. A wine to lighten the spirits. Quaff at will from a large glass.<br />
4669 Zidela Merlot, Zidela <strong>Wine</strong>s 2007 9 9 Balanced and poised. Shows the effect of the terroir and skill<br />
of the winemaker. Very good wine and good now.<br />
4670 Zidela Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2007 9 9 Tightly drawn, the tannins are still rough and the acidity high.<br />
Merlot/Petit Verdot, Zidela <strong>Wine</strong>s Wait a bit for it all to soften up.<br />
4671 Revelation, Mellasat, 2005 9 9 Initially this had a very high level of fruit acid. That has gone<br />
Dekker’s Valley Range and it is very easy, supple and rich.<br />
4672 Pinotage, Deza Collection 2007 8 8 Not bland, but it is at the lesser end of Cape complexity. Easy,<br />
enjoyable now, but it will not leave a memory.<br />
4673 Boschetto Rosso, Stellekaya <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2005 8 8 Big red scrapper. Fills the mouth with powerful fruit and leaves<br />
it with an endless grip of tannin.<br />
4674 Cape Cross, Stellekaya <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2005 7 8 A clever, well made and easy to like blend of red fruit flavours<br />
with leathery tannic notes. Good now, will last.<br />
4675 Hercules, Stellekaya <strong>Wine</strong>ry 2006 7 9 Named after a southern constellation, it shows the power of<br />
well selected ripe fruit when carefully matched with oak tannins.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4676 Clovelly Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon/ 2007 7 8 This comes from the small triangular vineyard high on the hill<br />
Shiraz, Special Cuvée, Founders’ Choice above Devon Vale. Once surrounded by gum trees their resin<br />
can still be found as an interest in the mature palate.<br />
4677 Chenin Blanc, Kloof-en-Berg, 2008 10 10 Open and drink before the freshness goes.<br />
Western Cape Province, South Africa<br />
4678 Pinotage Rosé, Kloof-en-Berg, 2008 10 10 Only good when young, so open up any remaining<br />
Western Cape Province, South Africa bottles soon.<br />
4679 Ruby Cabernet, Kloof-en-Berg, 2008 10 10 Big palate of fruit, with acidity rather than tannin, it is perfectly<br />
Western Cape Province, South Africa ready.<br />
4680 Shiraz, Kloof-en-Berg, 2008 9 9 Saddle leather, chocolate and licorice. Delicious at the<br />
Western Cape Province, South Africa moment, it will last another year.<br />
4681 Sauvignon Blanc, Mount Vernon, 2008 9 10 A real bargain for everyday, but don’t keep it too long.<br />
New Zealand<br />
4682 Semillon/Chardonnay 2008 10 10 Well balanced as a young wine, but it loses freshness quickly<br />
“On the Billabong”, Riverina, Australia and becomes dull, so drink up.<br />
4683 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 9 9 A big spongy, fruit laden, soft wine. Because it lacks tannin,<br />
“On the Billabong”, Riverina, Australia it has no longevity.<br />
4684 Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay 2008 7 8 This North Island white has grace, charm and balance.<br />
It will develop even more interest in a medium time frame.<br />
4685 Sauvignon Blanc, Hawke’s Bay 2008 8 9 Not as distinguished as the same vareity from Marlborough,<br />
but even so, this has to be a wine to count among the best of<br />
its type.<br />
4686 Tua Tua Bay Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 8 8 Utter delight. Full of green fruit and fragrant floral notes.<br />
Marlborough Fine acidity, good mouth-feel and long finish.<br />
4687 Tua Tua Bay Gewürztraminer, Gisborne 2008 8 8 Mangoes and orange blossoms. Lies fat on the palate.<br />
Opulent entry, but it fades rapidly.<br />
4688 Tua Tua Bay Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2008 7 7 Deliciously fresh and fruity. Raspberries and white cherries.<br />
Balanced, needs time.<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Over the years of drought, all of the wines from South Australia have become deeper, fuller bodied, intense and tangibly powerful, so<br />
expect all the wines to show those characteristics.<br />
4689 Chardonnay, McLaren Vale 2008 8 9 A massive white wine, full of aroma and flavours,<br />
but beautfiuuly balanced. Ready.<br />
4690 Viognier, McLaren Vale 2008 8 8 Perhaps this is as rich as the grape can be. Delectable notes.<br />
Somewhat oily texture. Long in the mouth. A real joy.<br />
4691 Tempranillo, McLaren Vale 2006 7 8 Rich and very fine. Perfectly ripe now.<br />
4692 Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2005 7 7 So big that it still needs more time for the tannin to catch the<br />
maturing fruit. Very full-bodied.<br />
4693 Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2006 8 8 Typically offers a bouquet of soap, vanilla, chocolate and<br />
sweaty saddle leather.<br />
4694 Fat ’n Skinny, “Picker’s Choice”, 2006 10 10 The name hasn’t got it quite right: this is closer to fat than<br />
McLaren Vale skinny, a function of the drought and strict crop reduction, to<br />
lessen the crop during the water shortage.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
NEW SOUTH WALES<br />
The three man team of John Duval, famous for the epic “Grange” - Australia’s most famous wine - David Fatches, the Hunter Valley<br />
entrepreneur and Martin Krajewski, owner of Château de Sours, have produced a small set of Australian wines of the highest possible<br />
quality. None are easy on the pocket, but all provide huge quality.<br />
4695 Bylines Chardonnay, Hunter Valley 2007 8 8 Gloriously ripe and full. An epic production.<br />
4696 Bylines Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2005 7 7 Big tough wine, as much of an Australian classic as<br />
“The Thornbirds”.<br />
4697 Leylines Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2006 8 8 Tannic, but backed up with a huge tub full of fruit. All ripe and<br />
juicy with a classic black pepper spiciness.<br />
4698 Songlines Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2005 6 7 Clearly one of the finest Australian wines. Its price reflects its<br />
quality and long term potential.<br />
HUNTER VALLEY<br />
Our original close partner from down-under. Opimian has offered Australian wines before, but had never established an annual offer<br />
from the same vineyard. This arrangement has helped Opimian to establish other links in far away Australian regions.<br />
4699 Botrytis Semillon, Hunter Valley 2008 7 8 Wonderful dessert wine, it can only get even better.<br />
4700 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 8 8 Semillon, definitely the most successful variety grown in<br />
Hunter Valley/Adelaide Hills the Hunter. This is blended in a perfect match.<br />
4701 Viognier, Hunter Valley 2008 7 8 Fat and creamy. A beautiful dry wine with plenty of body.<br />
4702 Verdelho, Central Ranges 2008 8 8 Austere acidity, but no lack of aroma or flavour. Ready now.<br />
4703 Chardonnay, Hunter Valley 2008 8 8 Delicious. Everything you expect from a good wine.<br />
4704 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Ranges 2007 7 7 Although it is no longer tough, there is still a weight of grainy<br />
tannin to soften down. Drink between 2011 and 2014.<br />
4705 White Trio 2008 7 8 Big and weighty. Delicious marriage of three grapes.<br />
4706 Rock Pile Chardonnay, Hunter Valley 2007 7 7 Concentrated. Powerful. Excellent balance. Ready.<br />
4707 Red Trio, Hunter Valley 2007 7 7 Massed range of complex easy to enjoy fruit. Good supporting<br />
tannin provides a firm structure.<br />
4708 Old Vines Shiraz, Hunter Valley 2007 6 7 Warm and ripe flavours of dried fruit, dates, figs and prunes<br />
with a good wedge of leather and chocolate.<br />
4709 Cold-Soaked Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 7 8 Powerful wine. One of the most harmoniously complete<br />
Hunter Valley Cabs we have tasted this year.<br />
4710 “Big Bully”, Members Reserve 2006 5 6 This is the landmark red from Briar Ridge, although it is<br />
Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon produced from grapes grown on Briar Ridge’s other vineyard.<br />
Very lovely red, good length, with a powerful finish.<br />
ADELAIDE HILLS<br />
Year by year, Geoff becomes the epitome of the great Australian wine dream. His vineyards are now fully mature, planted with the finest<br />
root and scion stock from his own vine nurseries. Fine winemaking harnessed to great fruit, it is no surprise that Geoff is weighed down<br />
with recent prizes.<br />
4711 K1 by Geoff Hardy, Chardonnay,<br />
Adelaide Hills<br />
2007 6 8 Lime, lemon, apple and oriental pears. Memorable and ready.<br />
4712 K1 by Geoff Hardy, Shiraz, Adelaide Hills 2007 6 6 A big, rich, strongly flavoured and highly perfumed red. A great<br />
success. Drink late <strong>2010</strong> – 2013.<br />
4713 K1 by Geoff Hardy, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 7 7 All of the components are falling nicely into place. Enjoy<br />
Adelaide Hills this year and onwards.<br />
4714 K1 by Geoff Hardy, Merlot, Adelaide Hills 2006 7 8 Just what one would expect from Merlot grown in this warm<br />
weather region. Spicy, very ripe, red berry flavours; persistent<br />
flavour and finely grained tannins through the long finish.<br />
4715 K1 by Geoff Hardy, Shiraz Viognier, 2006 8 9 Perfect now. It seems strange to ally the white Viognier with<br />
Adelaide Australia’s winning Shiraz, but the blend works perfectly and<br />
the result is easy, refined and approachable. Drink between<br />
<strong>2010</strong> and 2012.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4716 K1 by Geoff Hardy, Museum Release, 2001 9 10 Lovely, ripe and soft. A great wine for sipping in contemplation.<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Adelaide Hills<br />
4717 GMH Meritage, Limestone Coast/ 2006 7 8 Hard to tell this is a blend, as all of the varieties merge<br />
Langhorne Creek/Adelaide Hills, seamlessly together.<br />
Vineyard Series<br />
4718 GMH Shiraz, Limestone Coast/ 2007 7 7 Rich bouquet, dark fruit and black cherries. Full-bodied.<br />
Langhorne Creek, Vineyard Series<br />
4719 GMH Petit Verdot, Limestone Coast, 2007 8 8 Developing its potential. It is good already and will continue<br />
Vineyard Series to improve as it softens.<br />
4722 Milyaroo Chardonnay, 2008 8 9 Delicious. No benefit to be had from delaying its use.<br />
Southeast Australia<br />
4723 Milyaroo Semillon/Chardonnay, 2008 8 9 Less intensely tropical than 4722, but just as easy and<br />
Southeast Australia attractively flavoursome.<br />
4724 Milyaroo Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 7 8 Surprisingly easy and forward for a 2008 wine.<br />
Southeast Australia<br />
4725 Milyaroo Merlot, Southeast Australia 2008 8 8 Easy. The tannins are ripe and supple. Open during this year.<br />
4726 Milyaroo Shiraz, Southeast Australia 2008 8 8 Ripe and full. Notes of prunes, dark plums and vanilla. Light<br />
cedar smoke aromas.<br />
4727 Richland Chardonnay, Southeast Australia 2008 9 9 Attractive notes of fruit acidity mingle comfortably with light<br />
white fruit flavours.<br />
4728 Richland Shiraz, Southeast Australia 2008 9 9 Supple. Dominated by fruit to the exclusion of tannin and<br />
mass. Quite short, but ready.<br />
4729 96 Points Shiraz/Viognier, Riverina 2007 7 8 Very successful blend, as elsewhere in Australia, the white<br />
Viognier only brings attractive elements to this otherwise<br />
spongey red. Open this year.<br />
4730 96 Points Durif, Riverina 2007 6 7 Very full-bodied. Quite tough, still very tannic and the fruit<br />
needs time to develop.<br />
4731 Westend Estate “Three Bridges” 2008 7 8 Very successfully blended ripe fruit making this very enjoyable<br />
Cabernet/Shiraz, King Valley now. Drink between <strong>2010</strong> and 2012.<br />
4732 Westend Estate “Three Bridges” 2006 8 8 Rather stalky. Needs time for the fruit to open up in a<br />
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Riverina softer balanced context.<br />
4733 Westend Estate “Three Bridges” 2006 7 8 Lovely. The ripe fruit from the much irrigated Riverina<br />
Reserve Shiraz, Riverina vineyards has become more concentrated through reduction<br />
of water during the first of the dry years.<br />
Special Offering 45<br />
4735 Spumante Amabile N.V. 10 10<br />
4736 Regalia, Brut Nature N.V. 10 10 Frankly this is as good as many of the wines from Champagne.<br />
4737 Torrontés, Sergio Traverso 2008 8 9<br />
4738 Syrah, Sergio Traverso 2007 7 9<br />
4739 Tempranillo, Sergio Traverso 2007 7 9 Great level of black fruit giving a jammy impression.<br />
4740 Blend 1314, Sergio Traverso 2007 7 7 The best of the Traverso bunch. Rich and ripe.<br />
4741 Compass Rose Malbec, 2007 7 9<br />
Cafayate, Sergio Traverso<br />
4742 Compass Rose Malbec, 2007 7 9<br />
Tupungato, Sergio Traverso<br />
4743 Compass Rose Malbec, Patagonia, 2007 7 9<br />
Sergio Traverso<br />
4744 Compass Rose Malbec, 2007 7 8<br />
“Tres Terruños” Collection<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4745 Anubis Chardonnay, Bodegas Dominio 2008 7 8 Very good green fruit. Lime accented. Fresh and vigorous.<br />
del Plata, Central Valley, Mendoza<br />
4746 Anubis Syrah/Bonarda, Bodegas Dominio 2007 8 8 Amazingly full-bodied. A real sluice of fruit that fire hoses<br />
del Plata, Central Valley, Mendoza the blackberry characters across the palate, giving good<br />
weight. Firm tannins that need more time. Drink between<br />
2011 and 2014.<br />
4747 Anubis Malbec, Bodegas Dominio 2008 7 8 The Malbec, originally a vine from Bordeaux, lost favour there<br />
del Plata, Central Valley, Mendoza as its skin was susceptible to mildew. But in the dry desert<br />
climate of Mendoza, it produces a green and stalky beauty.<br />
This needs another year at least.<br />
4748 Premium Torrontés, AVE, 2008 9 10 Torrontes is to Argentina what Zinfandel is to California,<br />
Valle del Cafayate, Mendoza the defining variety of the region. Dry yet perfectly balanced,<br />
it has acidity like a fresh apple, notes of orange peel and<br />
marmalade. Good structure, use in its youth or lose it.<br />
Drink in <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
4749 Premium Malbec, AVE, 2007 7 7 Much more supple than a year ago, it has come round<br />
Valle del Cafayate, Mendoza beautifully, securing good harmony of fruit and tannin.<br />
4750 Cerro Azul Syrah, Bodegas La Guarda, 2008 8 9 A big, rich red. Utterly different from the saddle leather<br />
Tulúm Valley, San Juan aromas of Australian Syrah, this has a cleanly defined level of<br />
red fruit aromas and flavour. The structure is medium weight,<br />
as though the tannin is there solely to support the availability<br />
of the fruit.<br />
4751 Cerro Azul Bonarda, Bodegas La Guarda, 2008 7 8 A lovely, big red wine, full of strong fruit flavours. The structure<br />
Tulúm Valley, San Juan is solid with tar notes that increases the piquancy of the wine<br />
in the mouth. Great stuff.<br />
4752 Urban Uco Tempranillo, O. Fournier, 2007 6 8 Señor Fournier, with vineyards in Spain, Chile and Argentina,<br />
Valle de Uco, Mendoza is a modern day “Flying <strong>Wine</strong>maker”, but he appears to have<br />
plenty of time to create great wines here as well as in Spain.<br />
This is very similar to his wonderful Ribero del Duero, 2005.<br />
4753 Urban Uco Malbec, O. Fournier, 2007 7 8 No Malbec tasted during and since 2008 has surpassed this.<br />
Valle de Uco, Mendoza It has been equalled, but this is a wine of fine quality.<br />
4754 Alfa Crux, O. Fournier, 2003 7 8 This is as stellar as the constellation it is named to honour.<br />
Valle de Uco, Mendoza Gil Fournier has put this blend together with sensitivity and a<br />
wish to create a huge character.<br />
4755 Poetico Viognier, Mauricio Lorca, 2008 7 7<br />
Valle de Uco, Mendoza<br />
4756 Fantasía Malbec, Mauricio Lorca, 2008 7 7<br />
Valle de Uco, Mendoza<br />
4757 Ópalo Malbec, Mauricio Lorca, 2007 7 7<br />
Valle de Uco, Mendoza<br />
4758 Ópalo Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 6 6<br />
Mauricio Lorca, Valle de Uco, Mendoza<br />
4759 Gran Lorca Poético Blend, 2007 5 6<br />
Mauricio Lorca, Valle de Uco, Mendoza<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
7
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4761 Reserve de Sours, Sparkling Rosé, N.V. 10 10 The late Sebastien Lamothe took the estate rosé and turned<br />
Brut, Vin Mousseux, Méthode Traditionelle it into a bright, gay and lively sparkler. Drink soon.<br />
4762 Château de Sours Rosé, AOC Bordeaux 2008 10 10 Although very young, its youth is the attraction. Enjoy this year.<br />
4763 Cuvée du 7 Juin, M & N, 2007 5 6 Martin and Nicolette Krajewski were determined to celebrate<br />
AOC Bordeaux Wedding their wedding with a very fine cuvée. This is one of the best<br />
Celebration Cuvée wines of the ’07 vintage. Balanced, full-bodied with a great structure<br />
and masses of tannin that will take time to soften its grip.<br />
4766 Vin de Pays des Gaules Rosé, 2008 8 10 Splash and pour – great wine at a picnic. As inconsequential<br />
Bernard Perrin as it is attractive.<br />
4767 Vin de Pays des Gaules Rouge, 2008 8 10 Soft, easy red. No benefit by waiting any longer.<br />
Bernard Perrin<br />
4768 Domaine G. Thomas, AOC Saint-Véran, 2007 8 8 Very easy. Balance is a perfect match between citric acidity,<br />
soft, well ripened fruit and earthy notes. Ready.<br />
4769 Bernard Perrin, AOC Beaujolais Blanc 2008 8 9 Creamy and soft with excellent balance.<br />
4770 Domaine de Milhomme, AOC Beaujolais 2008 8 9 Bernard Perrin’s wine is wonderful. Perfect chilled or chambré,<br />
enjoy during <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
4771 Domaine de Thulon, 2008 7 8 So easy to like, and rewarding, with its high juice and balance<br />
AOC Beaujolais-Villages, Famille Jambon of fruit. Great drinking now.<br />
4772 Domaine de Thulon, AOC Régnié, 2008 8 9 Light, fragrant red. Ready now.<br />
Famille Jambon<br />
4773 Domaine Dit Barron, AOC Brouilly, 2008 8 8 Light. Very aromatic. Easy. Good berry acidity and fruit. Ready.<br />
Gilles Aujogues<br />
4774 Domaine Desmures, AOC Chiroubles 2008 8 8 Lovely. Fragrant, flowery wine with a solid blackberry heart.<br />
Almost ready now.<br />
4775 Domaine Champagnon, AOC Chénas 2008 6 7 Monsieur Champagnon is the best grower in the village. His<br />
wine is brilliant, a testament to his ability. Drink between <strong>2010</strong><br />
and 2015.<br />
4776 Domaine de la Sionnière, 2008 6 7 This is one of the best wines of this cru de Beaujolais<br />
AOC Moulin à Vent, Thomas Patenôtre we have ever tasted. Firm. Filled with black cherries and soft<br />
ripe berries.<br />
4777 Domaine de la Roche-Briday, 2008 6 7 Tasted on the property, it matched a beef ragout to perfection<br />
AOC Morgon, Thomas Collonge Will last.<br />
4778 Clos de Haute-Combe, AOC Juliénas, 2008 6 7 Marvellous. Just enjoy this wine as much as you cherish it.<br />
Vincent Audras It will live several years.<br />
4779 Domaine des Deux Lys, 2008 7 8 Lovely. The word Fleurie sums up the characters.<br />
AOC Fleurie, “Les Bataillons” It is fragrant, light, refined and easy. Good ripe tannins will give<br />
it good length in the mouth and life in the cellar.<br />
4780 Domaine des Grandes Vignes, 2008 7 8 Perfect example of the Gamay grape grown on a volcanic soil.<br />
AOC Côtes du Brouilly, High acidity, honest and available fruit. Use it through the next<br />
Founders’ Choice year or two.<br />
4784 Folies Parisiennes, N.V. 9 9 Nothing to write home about. OK, but no better than it<br />
Le Blanc des Heritiers Lamblin should be.<br />
4785 Folies Parisiennes, Le Rouge des N.V. 8 9 Good, jammy notes from the southern vineyard in the blend.<br />
Heritiers Lamblin A touch dull and very short in the mouth. Drink up.<br />
4786 Petit Chablis AC 2007 8 9 Quite delicious. Fine varietal notes. Lively fruit. At its price, it<br />
could be considered the best value of all the Lamlbin wines.<br />
4787 Chablis AC, “Vieilles Vignes” 2007 6 7 Typical, finely drawn balance. Aromas of the terroir.<br />
4788 Chablis Premier Cru, 2007 6 7 Elegant, refined and full of the chalky dry terroir. A fine<br />
Premier Cru Controlée, “Mont de Milieu” example of the Premier Cru quality.<br />
4789 Chablis Grand Cru, 2007 6 6 Very fine, it has hardly begun its ascent to readiness.<br />
Grand Cru Controlée, “Vaudesir” Put it away.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4790 Sauvignon de Saint Bris AC 2007 9 10 Needs drinking. It is only really good when very youthful.<br />
4791 Bourgogne Chardonnay AC, 2008 7 8 Very refined. In no way are these Burgundian Chardonnays<br />
“Fleurs du Printemps” as rich or as expressive as those of the new World, but this is<br />
good wine.<br />
4792 Bourgogne Aligoté AC, “Fruits d’Eté” 2007 8 9 Excellent. Lamblin has always produced good Aligoté. This is a<br />
typical wine of the Auxerre terroir.<br />
4793 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain AC, 2007 8 8<br />
“Raisins de l’Automne”<br />
4794 Côtes de Beaune-Villages AC, 2007 8 8<br />
4795 Volnay AC, 2007 7 8<br />
4796 Aloxe-Corton AC 2007 7 8<br />
4797 Gevrey-Chambertin AC 2007 7 8<br />
4798 Nuits-Saint-Georges AC 2007 8 8<br />
4799 Riesling-Traminer Icewine, 2007 7 8 Still a local beauty, it has been delicious on every occasion<br />
tasted. Still plenty of vigour and life, if stored in a cool, dark<br />
cellar.<br />
4800 Chardonnay 2007 9 9 This has not developed to any significant degree, so open the<br />
bottles and enjoy soon.<br />
4801 Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007 9 9 This was the most exciting wine from the Black Prince <strong>Wine</strong>ry<br />
when first tasted. It has developed well, won a number of<br />
prizes and tastings, but it has insufficient extract to go much<br />
further. Drink now.<br />
CHAMPAGNE<br />
4802 Champagne Gardet, Brut N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4803 Champagne Gardet, Premier Cru N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4804 Champagne Georges Gardet, Brut Spécial N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4805 Champagne Georges Gardet, Brut Spécial N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4806 Champagne Georges Gardet, Brut Rosé N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4807 Champagne Cuvée Charles Gardet 2000 n/a n/a<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
These six wines from Burgundy all come from a vintage of<br />
middling quality. None of them have any great level of<br />
fruit or ability to develop, given that they have tannin and<br />
fruit acidity, but not much generosity. This means that they<br />
will gradually move from fresh, fruity and attractive towards<br />
dry, acidic and dull. In January <strong>2010</strong>, tastings showed that<br />
they have come a long way and are still in good condition.<br />
Over the many years that Opimian have majored on the<br />
Champagnes of Gardet & Cie, it has grown significantly<br />
larger and more successful, yet it remains a family owned,<br />
private company known to the most famous Champagne<br />
houses as “the smallest of the big houses, the largest of the<br />
small”. To Opimians’ it remains France’s best kept secret.<br />
Champagne is not released from the dark cellars carved<br />
in the white limestone underneath the vineyards until it is<br />
ready to drink. All of the Gardet wines should be cherished,<br />
savoured and enjoyed as, and when, thirst and an appropriate<br />
moment calls for a celebration.
0<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
COGNAC & OTHER BRANDIES<br />
For many years, Opimian has offered a diligently selected number of French Brandy, spearheaded by Cognac. We work with a top class<br />
co-operative, originally from Cognac, that has, through its success, broadened its offer to include the other lesser known brandies of the<br />
rural countryside.<br />
4808 Calvados, Leriche N.V. n/a n/a Normandy apples transported right into your house.<br />
4809 Armagnac, *** Leriche N.V. n/a n/a Very fine flavours highlighting grapes and smoke.<br />
4810 Lauriac VS Fine Champagne Cognac N.V. n/a n/a<br />
4811 Cognac XO, “Roi des Rois” N.V. n/a n/a<br />
SCOTS MALT WHISKY<br />
4812 Cùl na Creagan, 2001 n/a n/a<br />
8 Year Old Malt Scotch Whisky, Distilled<br />
4813 Cùl na Creagan, 1997 n/a n/a<br />
12 Year Old Malt Scotch Whisky, Distilled<br />
4814 Cùl na Creagan, 1988 n/a n/a<br />
21 Year Old Malt Scotch Whisky, Distilled<br />
Three Malts from Sir Iain Noble’s blending house. Aromas of<br />
the Central Highlands and Islands with a touch of Islay.<br />
SHERRY<br />
Sherry, like Port wine, is fortified, but unlike Port it is allowed to mature as a “table wine” until shortly before bottling, at which moment<br />
grape brandy is added to increase its alcoholic strength. Like Port, it lives in the bottle for many years but, once opened, it loses freshness<br />
and should be consumed within a few days.<br />
Two complete departures from the way in which Port is made are used for the production of Sherry. First, unlike almost all other wines,<br />
Sherry is intentionally oxidized by storage in casks that are only partially filled. Second, during the reductive storage in wooden casks,<br />
a number of butts (traditional name for a Sherry cask) develop a layer of yeast on top of the liquid that progressively uses up all of the<br />
elements of residual sugar, ensuring that the wines with this growth of yeast become entirely free of any natural fruit sugar sweetness.<br />
4815 Opimian Manzanilla Pasada, N.V. n/a n/a Very dry. Maderized. Tastes very mature. Serve fresh<br />
Sanlúcar de Barrameda with crushed ice.<br />
4816 Opimian Fine Amontillado,<br />
Rare Ballast Butt<br />
N.V. n/a n/a Fine wine for a sipping apéritif<br />
4817 Opimian East India Rich Cream Oloroso N.V. n/a n/a Rich. Ripe. Full. A bowl of prunes mixed with apricots and<br />
mirabelles.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 185<br />
4818 Castillo D Montblanc, Brut Cava N.V. 10 10 Serve very cold in long glasses. It is a sheer delight, but quite<br />
ready now.<br />
4819 Montblanc 362, Viura/Chardonnay, 2008 8 9 A standard blend from the north eastern vineyards of Spain.<br />
DO Conca de Barberà Viura does nothing but add weight. The Chardonnay is<br />
deliciously ripe now.<br />
4820 Montblanc 362, Tempranillo, 2008 8 9 Tempranillo can produce really lovely wines. This is one – fat<br />
DO Conca de Barberà and rich with powerful grape flavours – will be better in a year’s time.<br />
4821 Montblanc 362, Cabernet/Merlot, 2006 8 8 For a wine that is a standard winery blend, this shows<br />
DO Conca de Barberà remarkable quality. Ready to open now.<br />
4822 Clos Montblanc, Chardonnay, 2008 9 9 Very tropical. A blend of melons, pineapple and peach<br />
DO Conca de Barberà with good acidity that carries nuances of apples and limes.<br />
4823 Clos Montblanc, Xipella, 2005 8 8 Well oaked, the vanilla from the casks matches the many<br />
DO Conca de Barberà strands of flavour from ripe grapes. Now ready.<br />
4824 Clos Montblanc, Masía Les 2005 7 8 Fine, full and well structured, a very fine wine that will<br />
Comes Reserva, DO Conca de Barberà bring pleasure this year.<br />
4825 Sanz Clásico, DO Rueda, Vinos Sanz 2008 9 9 From the winery part-owned by Massimo Galimberti, the major<br />
Opimian supplier of Spanish wine, this is absolutely the finest<br />
white of the denomination. Grab it by the neck and haul out<br />
the corks to enjoy as soon as possible.<br />
4826 Opimian Viñas Viejas, Vino de la 2007 8 9 Fresh and flavoursome. Good overall appeal. Medium weight.<br />
Tierra de Castilla, Bodegas Luan<br />
4827 Marqués de Tejares, Vino de la 2007 9 9 The first wine offered frrom this excellent producer. Full<br />
Tierra de Castilla, Bodegas Los Aljibes of powerful extract. Long flavours last in the mouth. Soft and<br />
ready to enjoy.<br />
4828 Convento San Bernardino, 2007 9 9 A medium weight wine with charming balance. Not a big red,<br />
DO Vinos de Madrid, Bodegas Jesús Díaz but very attractively approachable.<br />
4829 Merlot de Jesús Díaz, 2007 8 9 Spicy, yet mellow, the palate is nicely accented by ripe berry<br />
DO Vinos de Madrid, Bodegas Jesús Díaz fruit. Ready and mature.<br />
4830 Palacios Reales Tempranillo, 2007 8 9 The quality of wines of La Mancha have progressed further<br />
DO La Mancha, Bodegas Verdúguez and faster than any other from Spain. This is at its best now.<br />
4831 Monte Castrillo Roble, DO Ribera 2007 8 8 The standard of the winery, but such a high standard.<br />
del Duero, Bodegas Peñalba López Very fine red, ready to drink now.<br />
4832 Cantos de Torremilanos, DO Ribera 2006 6 7 Still shows the same level of red fruit as a couple of years<br />
del Duero, Bodegas Peñalba López ago. Tannins remain markedly full. Can be cellared away for<br />
another day.<br />
4833 Torremilanos Crianza, DO Ribera 2005 7 7 Although ready now, it has a long life ahead of it.<br />
del Duero, Bodegas Peñalba López Can be enjoyed now or put away.<br />
4834 Cyclo, DO Ribera del Duero, 2006 6 7 The best of the bunch from an illustrious winemaking family.<br />
Bodegas Peñalba López Can be expected to last another ten years.<br />
4835 Urban Roble, DO Ribera del Duero, 2006 7 8 <strong>Wine</strong> from one of Spain’s masterly, international wine makers.<br />
Bodegas O. Fournier Fournier ranks on the top rung of the ladder.<br />
4836 Alfa Spiga, DO Ribera del Duero, 2004 7 7 Dramatic red wine. Perfect harmony. Great complexity.<br />
Bodegas O. Fournier Very fine and ready to enjoy.<br />
4837 Faustino Selección de Familia, 2006 8 9 Notes of fine bitter chocolate. Soft fruit that wraps the<br />
DOCa. Rioja, Bodegas Faustino tongue in soft flavour.<br />
4838 Colegiata, 4 Meses en Barrica, 2006 7 8 Very small oak, only emphasizes the major fruit concentration.<br />
DO Toro, Bodegas Fariña Black coloured, dark red fruit flavours.<br />
4839 Gran Colegiata Crianza, DO Toro, 2003 7 7 Soft. Rich. Rounded. A lovely full red now.<br />
Bodegas Fariña<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
1
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4840 Gran Colegiata Campus, DO Toro, 2006 6 6 Headline news: Fariña does it again. As always, this winery<br />
Bodegas Fariña has shipped a star. Will last.<br />
4841 Spiritus Sancti, Gérard Depardieu, 2006 6 6 The name of the producer on the label guarantees interest,<br />
DO Toro, Bodegas Bernard but the contents are first rate. This wine from Toro has all the<br />
Magrez España aristocratic elements that make Toro such a fantastic area for reds.<br />
4842 Bassus Pinot Noir, DO Utiel-Requena, 2007 8 8 This has turned out better than initially expected. It presents<br />
Bodegas Hispano-Suizas a fine harmony of tannin, fruit and complex flavours now.<br />
4843 Triumvirat, DOCa. Priorato, 2007 5 6 Do Priorat wines ever mature? This one is hardly showing<br />
Terra de Verema signs of advancing. It is a mighty beast to be locked away in a<br />
cage for a while longer.<br />
4844 Cume do Pereiro, DOC Douro, 2006 7 7 Still very tannic with oak that provides neat counterpoints<br />
Domingos Alves de Sousa to fruit flavours. It needs a little more time.<br />
4845 Cume do Pereiro Reserva, DOC Douro, 2005 7 8 Very clever blending and use of oak has made this an<br />
Domingos Alves de Sousa outstanding Douro example. Ready.<br />
4846 Valduero Una Cepa, DO Ribera 2005 8 8 Very fine wine, from one of the finest of the wineries of<br />
del Duero, Bodegas Valduero, Ribera del Duero. Enjoy now for its muscle or wait for it to<br />
Founders’ Choice soften further.<br />
4848 Vinho Verde, DOC Vinho Verde, N.V. 10 10 A chance to reminisce and dream of the summer.<br />
João Serra Private Reserve This recalls the summer of 2007. Must be opened soon.<br />
4849 Mouras de Arraiolos Reserva Branco, 2007 8 8 Big, pungent white. High acidity covering much of the fruit.<br />
DOC Alentejo, Adeja das Mouras<br />
de Arraiolos<br />
4850 Quinta da Barreira Reserva, 2007 7 8 A firm favourite from a hot, inland region, it has plenty of<br />
Vinho Regional Estremadura, José Gaspar acidity to balance cooked pear and apple flavours.<br />
4851 Fiúza Merlot, DOC Ribatejo, 2007 8 9 A really outstanding wine. Australian know-how with ripe<br />
Fiúza & Bright Portuguese fruit. Close to ready.<br />
4852 Mouras de Arraiolos Reserva Tinto, 2005 8 8 Big, rich, fruit laden wine with bags of sustaining tannins.<br />
DOC Alentejo, Adeja das Mouras A good keeper, although it is much softer than before. Enjoy<br />
de Arraiolos when required.<br />
4853 Solar Jordões, DOC Douro, 2006 7 8 A powerful wine that is drinking in towards its maturity.<br />
Casal dos Jordões Although it is softening, it has still some way to go to reach<br />
full softness and velvet fruit.<br />
Port<br />
See general note on page 4.<br />
4854 Opimian Dry White Port N.V. n/a n/a Unusual. Powerful flavour to be served well chilled, even over<br />
cubes of ice.<br />
4855 Opimian Finest Reserve Port N.V. n/a n/a Ripe, currantish, sweet and delectable, but not very<br />
memorable.<br />
4856 Opimian Late Bottled Vintage Port 2003 n/a n/a Very interesting “vintage” port characters without the need<br />
[Filtered] to decant.<br />
4857 Opimian Late Bottled Vintage Port 2002 n/a n/a The other side of the coin, here is a wine of a single year.<br />
[Unfiltered] It is now depositing a large sediment and will need to be<br />
decanted before serving.<br />
4858 Opimian Crusted Port, Bottled 2004 n/a n/a Rich and very fine. Plums, mulberries, vanilla and coffee.<br />
4859 Opimian Tawny Port, 10 Years Old N.V. n/a n/a Apricot coloured with apricots in the bouquet, but it is very<br />
soft, the tannins being less obtrusive than the fruit acidity.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4860 Opimian Single Quinta, “Agua Alta” 1998 n/a n/a Rich, fat and full of the unique taste of the Douro. Well on<br />
- 4861 Vintage Port [Wooden Case] the way to complete maturity, it can be opened now that its<br />
tannins have significantly ripened and softened.<br />
4862 Churchill Estates Rosé, DOC Douro 2007 9 10 Perhaps this is too big to enjoy in a typical, light, everyday<br />
fashion. Use it with a meal; it is great with pasta. Mature.<br />
4863 Vinha do Meio Queijo, DOC Douro 2006 7 7 This is, amazingly, the “second” wine of Churchill, but it is big,<br />
refined and represents the fine quality of the Douro table<br />
wines.<br />
4864 Churchill Estates, DOC Douro 2007 6 7 Big, bold and brazen. A very full-bodied charmer.<br />
4865 Crémant d’Alsace, Calixte Brut, N.V. 10 10 A very fine sparkling wine, it is fully ready now.<br />
AOC Alsace Crémant<br />
4866 Sylvaner Réserve, AOC Alsace 2007 8 9 Fragrant. Modest nose. Charming light palate. Drink now.<br />
4867 Riesling Réserve, AOC Alsace 2007 7 7 Rapier clean, attractive nose. Typically Alsace, finely drawn<br />
palate features.<br />
4868 Muscat Réserve, AOC Alsace 2007 8 8 Powerful bouquet. Rather flat in the mouth. Finishes quite<br />
short.<br />
4869 Gewürztraminer Réserve, AOC Alsace 2007 7 7 Will continue to grow and develop the particularly pungent/<br />
peachy flavours of Alsace Gewürz.<br />
4870 Pinot Blanc, Médaille d’Or Mâcon, 2007 7 7 Lovely now. Quite ready.<br />
AOC Alsace<br />
4871 Pinot Gris, Médaille d’Or Colmar, 2006 7 8 Shows the difference in performance between the<br />
AOC Alsace grape from Italy and this one from Alsace. This is full and<br />
quite dry.<br />
4872 Riesling, Lieu-dit Silberberg, AOC Alsace 2005 8 8 Very fine wine of a great year. Ready now.<br />
4873 Riesling, Grand Cru, Schoenenbourg, 2007 7 7 Great wine. Fine Riesling nose. Flavours as sharply defined<br />
AOC Alsace Grand Cru as a needle point.<br />
4874 Pinot Gris, Grand Cru, Rosacker, 2007 7 7 Fine, but still a little dumb. Will open further and offer<br />
AOC Alsace Grand Cru more character.<br />
4875 Gewürztraminer, Grand Cru, 2006 6 7 A scintillating wine of great authority. Ready to start<br />
Schoenenbourg, AOC Alsace Grand Cru opening bottles now.<br />
4876 Pinot Noir, Médaille d’Or Colmar, 2007 8 9 Not enough weight to see this develop much further.<br />
AOC Alsace<br />
4880 Coeur des Lanciers Blanc, N.V. 9 10 Still surprisingly good.<br />
Vin de Table Français<br />
4881 Coeur des Lanciers Rosé, N.V. 10 10 There was never any point in delaying the enjoyment of<br />
Vin de Table Français this small wine. Finish any remaning bottles soon.<br />
4882 Coeur des Lanciers Rouge, N.V. 10 10 Should have been consumed by now.<br />
Vin de Table Français<br />
4883 Mâcon-Lugny Blanc, AOC, Grande Terre 2008 8 8 Delicious. It has taken on the smooth, creamy characters that<br />
mark out good southern Burgundy Chardonnay.<br />
4884 Pouilly-Fuissé, AOC, Vieilles Vignes 2008 8 8 A golden wine in many ways. Lovely at the present time -<br />
January <strong>2010</strong> - but it can safely be stored.<br />
4885 Beaujolais Rouge, AOC, Les Genetières 2008 7 9 Good vintage. Fine selection. Enjoy now.<br />
4886 Beaujolais Villages, AOC, Vieilles Vignes 2008 8 9 This is a fine wine that can be left for a couple of years, but<br />
there is little advantage in doing so.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 186<br />
4890 Cornellana Sparkling Rosé, 2008 9 10 The bubbles hide the fruit, aroma and flavour.<br />
Cachapoal Valley This is a fun drink, have fun soon.<br />
4891 Cornellana Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 8 10 Green. Stalky. Gooseberry and kiwi. Ready to open today.<br />
Cachapoal Valley<br />
4892 Cornellana Chardonnay, 2008 7 8 Not creamy, but easy. It has lovely lime juice acid, melon,<br />
Cachapoal Valley peach and earth. Very good now.<br />
4893 Cornellana Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 8 9 Free run juice taken off the red grape before crushing.<br />
Rosé, Cachapoal Valley It has plenty of lively acidity, fine but light fruit flavours and<br />
should not be kept.<br />
4894 Cornellana Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 8 8 Lovely green leaf and cassis notes. Clearly a wine from<br />
Cachapoal Valley perfectly sun-ripened fruit.<br />
4895 Cornellana Merlot, Cachapoal Valley 2008 8 8 Spicy, cassis and damson flavoured. Drinking well now.<br />
4896 Cornellana Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, 2008 7 9 Big, fat, rich and surprisingly forward. Can be enjoyed now.<br />
Cachapoal Valley<br />
4897 Cornellana Merlot Reserve, 2007 7 8 Oh my Gosh, if only half of the Saint-Émilions were as good<br />
Cachapoal Valley as this. It really has got everything you like in a red wine.<br />
4898 Cornellana Carmenère Reserve, 2007 7 8 This grape takes time to mature and this one is only<br />
Cachapoal Valley just beginning to show any sign of softening. Drink, but enjoy<br />
with some caution – if not ready, put it away.<br />
4899 Cornellana Chardonnay, Barrel Reserve, 2008 7 8 Marvellous, a confection of figs, dates, lemons and bananas<br />
Cachapoal Valley – and a few melons thrown in. A lovely, but full-bodied white.<br />
4900 Cornellana Barrel Reserve Selection, 2007 7 7 Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère<br />
Cachapoal Valley and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. See notes above.<br />
(2 bottles each grape variety)<br />
4901 Cornellana Cuvée Grand Reserve, 2007 7 8 Fruit leads the way, the tannins in support. Delicious.<br />
Cachapoal Valley [Wooden case]<br />
4903 El Noble, Botrytised Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 8 8 Thierry Villard is a brilliant winemaker, and this unusual wine<br />
Casablanca Valley (did it start life as a mistake?) is a wonderful, “sticky,” pudding<br />
wine. Utterly delicious already.<br />
4904 Expresión Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 8 9 The best of the characters all flood the palate. Full of the<br />
Casablanca Valley jungle’s finest fruit and a lot we have never tasted before.<br />
4905 Expresión Reserve, Pinot Noir, 2008 8 7 It is hard to make a decent Pinot Noir. Thierry does it with<br />
Casablanca Valley applomb. This finely ripened fruit succeeds every time. This is<br />
very good.<br />
4906 Grand Vin l’Assemblage 2006 8 9 All the fun of the fairground. Red fruit. Acidity. Tons of tannin.<br />
Cassis. Grapes. Blackberry. It is now very good.<br />
4907 Tanagra Syrah, Casablanca Valley 2007 7 8 Like many “special” wines, this cost a packet, but now it is<br />
[Wooden Case] in the cellar and the price forgotten. It is a joy. A supple,<br />
complex, constantly long-flavoured beauty.<br />
4908 Casa Nueva Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 8 9 Stalky and green. Sappy and balanced. Very fine tropical fruit<br />
Molina, Curicó Valley acidity.<br />
4909 Casa Nueva Chardonnay, Unwooded, 2008 8 8 Developing fine flavours. Not huge, but balanced. Integrated<br />
Molina, Curicó Valley with quite a lemony feel to the flavours.<br />
4910 Casa Nueva Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 7 7 This is a big wine and needs more time.<br />
Molina, Curicó Valley<br />
4911 Casa Nueva Merlot, Molina, 2008 7 8 Strong. Flavours of black stone fruit and plums. Ready to<br />
Curicó Valley enjoy, but it will keep.<br />
4912 Casa Nueva Carmenère, Molina, 2008 6 8 Strong and powerful. Black as a stove pipe. Wonderful<br />
Curicó Valley integration of oak with fruit.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4913 Casa Nueva Family Reserva 2006 7 7 This is a family winery and this wine is a selection of the<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Molina, family’s selected cuvées. Sip and enjoy from now until it has<br />
Curicó Valley all been opened, enjoyed and there are no bottles left.<br />
4914 Sergio Traverso Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 9 9 Lacks varietal intensity. Drinking well, attractively fruity,<br />
Curicó Valley but not particularly showing its varietal notes.<br />
4915 Sergio Traverso Merlot, Curicó Valley 2008 8 8 Pepper, spice and lots of nice, dark red coloured fruit.<br />
4916 Sergio Traverso Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 7 8 Rather easy. Mouth-filling. Middle weight, fine red flavours.<br />
Curicó Valley<br />
4917 Sergio Traverso Carmenère, 2007 7 8 Slow to mature. Could have done with rather more fruit,<br />
Alto Valle del Rio Claro but there is no problem. It is doing nicely.<br />
4918 Sergio Traverso Syrah, Curicó Valley 2007 8 8 Very fine. Well balanced. Good now.<br />
4919 Hacienda Maitenes Carmenère, 2007 7 8 Supple wine with long tasting, elastic tannins that fill up<br />
Alto Valle del Rio Claro the mouth and keep the fruit hidden. Needs more time.<br />
4920 Mare Nostrum by Sergio Traverso, 2007 7 7 Delicious. It was for wines such as this that we fell for the<br />
Curicó Valley Traverso style.<br />
4921 Notable Blend by Sergio Traverso, 2008 7 7 This is maturing nicely.<br />
Alto Valle del Rio Claro<br />
4922 Domaine Villabea, AOC Condrieu 2007 8 8 For a white wine, this is huge. Orange coloured, fat, chewable<br />
and lasting, but it is ready now. Open it and understand that it<br />
is unlike any other white table wine.<br />
4923 Domaine Berthet-Rayne, 2008 8 8 Very big, full-bodied and almost solid. Put it away for a year.<br />
«Cuvée Préstige Castel Mireio»,<br />
Cairanne, AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages<br />
4924 Château de Manissy Rosé, 2008 8 8 So delicious. Quite a mouthful. Enjoy it with food.<br />
AOC Tavel, Cuvée Fruitée<br />
4925 Domaine Villabea, AOC Côte-Rôtie 2006 7 7 Amazingly old-fashioned. Big and built like a block-house.<br />
Full of tannin that still needs to soften.<br />
4926 Domaine Gilles Flacher, 2007 6 6 Plenty of fruit, but it is still hard to get at. Be patient.<br />
AOC Saint Joseph<br />
4927 Domaine du Murinais, AOC Crozes 2007 7 7 Difficult wine to interpret, it is somewhere between jammy<br />
Hermitage, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes and tannic. Give it more time.<br />
4928 Domaine des Romarins, 2007 8 8 The lesser wine of the estate, but who would know?<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône It is laudable and a darn’d good drink.<br />
4929 Domaine Vincent Rochette, 2007 8 8 Excellent. Great fruit. Good balance.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône<br />
4930 Domaine des Romarins, Signargues, 2007 7 8 Absolutely the best Côtes du Rhône village to be found.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages Enjoy it, savour it, and if you wish, keep it a while.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4931 Domaine du Val des Rois, Valréas, 2007 8 8 Very fine village wine. Rich and jammy. Plums and raspberries.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages<br />
4932 Domaine Vincent Rochette, Visan, 2007 8 8 <strong>Wine</strong>s such as these are very different from, but just as<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages good as, the finest village wines of Bordeaux and a whole lot<br />
cheaper.<br />
4933 Domaine des Côteaux des 2007 7 8 Another in the series of masterclass reds. This is full,<br />
Travers Réserve, Rasteau, rich and robust.<br />
AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages<br />
4934 Domaine Berthet-Rayne, “Tradition”, 2007 7 7 Amazing. Full of graceful flavours. Integrated, soft and<br />
Cairanne, AOC Côtes du Rhône Villages mouth-filling.<br />
4935 Château de Montmirail, « Le Graminier », 2007 7 8 There is no better wine in this village. Full of plum jam,<br />
AOC Gigondas spice and interesting characters, all coloured dark red.<br />
4936 Domaine Maître Curnier, AOC Vacqueyras 2007 7 8 Not together and perhaps never will be. This is not one of our<br />
greatest successes.<br />
4937 Domaine de la Ferme Saint Martin, 2007 7 8 Lovely. A really classy wine with great fruit levels and high<br />
AOC Beaumes de Venise, levels of stringy tannin. A wine that will keep well.<br />
« Les Terres Jaunes »<br />
4938 Domaine des Cigalons, 2007 7 8 Christian Berthet-Rayne walks round his cellar with a<br />
AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape constant smile, perhaps because he has just tasted this. It is<br />
really superb.<br />
4939 Château de Manissy, AOC Lirac 2007 8 8 Lirac, a great wine that can often be mistaken for fine<br />
Châteauneuf-du-Pape.<br />
4940 Domaine Ferme Saint Martin, 2007 8 8 Cold, upland vineyard, high up in the hills. It is maturing slowly.<br />
AOC Côtes du Ventoux, « La Gérine »<br />
4941 Domaine La Roche, 2008 8 8 The best wine of the region. Matures progressively.<br />
AOC Costières de Nîmes This is doing fine.<br />
4942 Domaine de la Grand’Ribe, 2007 8 8 Fabulous glass of rich, jammy, ripe and classy red wine.<br />
Founders’ Choice No hurry needed.<br />
4943 Les Chanterelles, Grenache-Sauvignon, 2008 9 10 All together, very nicely integrated. Fine for every day.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4944 Les Chanterelles, Syrah-Grenache, 2008 9 10 Very good for its denomination. No hurry, but keep going at<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc it until it is done.<br />
4945 Domaine Mas de Beaulieu, Viognier, 2008 9 10 Don’t wait a moment longer than December <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4946 Domaine Mas de Beaulieu, Syrah, 2008 9 9 Good, quite elegant. Nice fruit. Ready.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4947 Les Lavandines, AOC Côtes du Ventoux, 2008 8 9 A touch on the thin side. Good red for family enjoyment.<br />
Terroirs de Talents Use this year.<br />
4948 Les Boisières, AOC Côtes du Rhône, 2008 8 9 Full of juicy fruit. Good background of ripe tannin. Ready.<br />
Terroirs de Talents, Sélection Fruitée<br />
4949 Les Boisières, AOC Côtes du Rhône, 2008 8 9 This was the rough and tumble cuvée. Well the tumble<br />
Terroirs de Talents, Sélection Corsée has gone, the rough is now smooth. Enjoy.<br />
4950 Vacqueyras, AOC Vacqueyras, 2007 8 8 Big spicy Grenache. Great drinking now.<br />
Jérôme Seguin<br />
4951 Cornas, AOC Cornas 2003 9 9 Northern Rhône Syrah matures slowly. This has now become<br />
mature.<br />
4952 Domaine La Croix Martelle, Grenache 2007 9 9 Easy. Soft. Ready.<br />
Syrah Mourvèdre, Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
4953 Du Peloux Library Selection, Hermitage 1999 10 10<br />
[Wooden case] (2 bottles each vintage) 2000 10 10<br />
2002 10 10<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
These three vintages were ready when shipped.<br />
They should be drunk now.
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 187<br />
4954 Biroth Sekt - Sparkling <strong>Wine</strong>, N.V. 8 8 Easy sparkle, enjoy now.<br />
St. Antonius Weinkellerei<br />
4955 Rüdesheimer Rosengarten 2008 8 8 Rather rich. A fine example. Nicely harmonious even though<br />
Riesling Kabinett, it is not big in the mouth. Rather it is a rapid flush of lemon<br />
St. Antonius Weinkellerei acidity that carries the fruit with it.<br />
4956 Kreuznacher Kronenberg Riesling 2008 7 7 Very fine wine from the Nahe Valley. Grassy. Green leaf.<br />
Spätlese, St. Antonius Weinkellerei Oriental pears. Good finish.<br />
4957 Bechtolsheimer Petersberg Riesling 2004 7 9 Still has miles to travel. The palate is wonderful; plenty<br />
Eiswein, Weingut Ernst Bretz of sugar, fine, lifted fruit acidity, apple, peach and mulberry.<br />
Leave for a couple of years and it will be better yet.<br />
4958 Bechtolsheimer Petersberg Rivaner, 2007 9 9 Aromatic. Balanced. Reasonably full, but ends with little<br />
QBA, Trocken, Weingut Ernst Bretz more than citrus acidity.<br />
4959 Bechtolsheimer Petersberg, Weisser 2007 8 9 Dry. Rather austere. A very good drink, but there is nothing<br />
Burgunder, QBA, Trocken, very special to catch the imagination.<br />
Weingut Ernst Bretz<br />
4960 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling, 2006 7 8 Light as a feather dipped in lime juice. Brilliantly balanced.<br />
Auslese, Weingut Meilen Plenty of sweetness, but perfectly presented.<br />
4961 Wachenheimer Schenkenböhl 2007 7 8 Give this more time for the unique Gewürz character to evolve.<br />
Gewürztraminer Kabinett,<br />
Wachtenburg Winzergenossenschaft<br />
4962 Rheingau Riesling Classic, 2008 8 8 Simple Riesling character. Nothing fancy, just good, clean,<br />
Weingut Hirt-Gebhardt balanced flavours.<br />
4963 Franken Silvaner Kabinett trocken, 2007 8 9 Dry. Elegant. Very persistent. A fine wine.<br />
Weingut Glaser-Himmelstoss<br />
4964 Beerenauslese, Neusiedlersee N.V. 6 8 A stunner. True ice wine made from the few over-ripe grapes<br />
that the blackbirds left behind. Honey, peach, acid and<br />
sweetness in no particular order.<br />
4965 Grüner Veltliner, Qualitätswein, 2008 7 8 Austria’s favoured vine. No wonder, it is absolutely gorgeous.<br />
Neusiedlersee Light, elegant, full of life and liveliness. Drink now to catch it at<br />
its best.<br />
4966 Riesling, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2008 7 8 First class wine. This is how many of the Austrian Rieslings<br />
should taste – low on kerosene, high on apple fruit with good<br />
lemony acidity.<br />
4967 Pinot Noir, Qualitätswein, Burgenland 2005 8 8 Excellent. A wine that truly shows Pinot Noir character,<br />
although it is rather hot tasting and slightly deficient in red<br />
fruit flavours.<br />
4968 Prosecco, DOC Montello Colli Asolani N.V. 8 9 Bright. Fizzy. Uttely inconsequential. Great wines for an<br />
aperitif now.<br />
4969 Il Maserino Dessert N.V. 5 7 Heavy – a loaded aroma, some oxidase on the horizon, big<br />
wine. It will not last very long, so enjoy this year.<br />
4970 Verduzzo, IGT Colli Trevigiani 2007 8 9 Dry as dust, but the fruit and acidity provides an oasis. It has<br />
now married together and can be enjoyed immediately.<br />
It certainly will not improve.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
7
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4971 Chardonnay, DOC Montello Colli Asolani 2007 8 8 Delicious confection of pineapple, pear and pomegranate. Ready.<br />
4972 Merlot, DOC Montello Colli Asolani 2006 8 8 Spicy. Quite modest weight. Attractive fig-like nose. Modest<br />
palate, but persistent.<br />
4973 Cabernet, DOC Montello Colli Asolani 2006 7 8 A quick whiff of pepper and a shock of blackcurrant. Medium<br />
tannin. Not much fruit acidity. Don’t lay this away. Drink within<br />
two years.<br />
PUGLIA<br />
Inside the instep of Italy’s southern coastline, these are huge wines laden with extract; often clumsy, but full of fruit with a good tannic structure.<br />
4974 Negroamaro, IGT Salento, Terre d’Uva 2007 8 8 <strong>Wine</strong>s scarcely come darker and, in some ways, that<br />
means concentration. It is sweet fruit and black pigment.<br />
Drink anytime, but enjoy this year.<br />
4975 Primitivo, IGT Salento, Terre d’Uva 2007 8 8 For an inexpensive wine, it has a mass of extract and concentration,<br />
but it is good already with food like stews and hotpots.<br />
4976 Salice Salentino Riserva, Doc, Terre d’Uva 2006 7 8 Very fine. Good integration of all the parts. Enjoy at your own<br />
time and place.<br />
4977 Primitivo di Manduria, DOC, Terre d’Uva 2007 7 8 Dark black. A medley of blackberry fruit.<br />
4978 Nottetempo, Chardonnay, IGT Salento, 2008 8 8 Even now, this is showing early signs of moving too quickly.<br />
Le Vigne di Sammarco Drink this year.<br />
4979 Cypraea, DOC Salice Salentino, 2008 8 8 Big colour. Will delight members who look for weighty<br />
Le Vigne di Sammarco structure.<br />
4980 Pecten, IGT Salento, 2008 8 8 Quite tough, the fruit is lingering behind the tannin/acidity<br />
Le Vigne di Sammarco in the palate. Leave for a year.<br />
4981 Bisso, Salice Salentino, DOC, Riserva, 2006 7 7 Well integrated. Can be enjoyed immediately.<br />
Le Vigne di Sammarco<br />
4982 Arche’e, Negroamaro-Primitivo, IGT Salento 2007 6 7 Lovely wine. Good potential and drinking well already.<br />
4983 Etra, Primitivo, IGT Salento 2007 7 8 Mighty colour. Big fruit. Solid.<br />
4984 Amigdala, DOC Aleatico di Puglia, 2007 8 8 Massive. Let it get closer to harmony.<br />
Natural Sweet Drink from 2012 onwards.<br />
4985 Pinot Grigio, DOC Alto Adige, 2008 9 9 Abolutely no good reason to wait. Enjoy this year.<br />
E. Von Keller<br />
4986 Sauvignon Blanc, DOC Alto Adige, 2007 8 9 Fresh and frisky. Fine perfume – not heavy, but elegant.<br />
Well made.<br />
4987 Pinot Noir, DOC Alto Adige, Prendo, 2006 8 8 Good colour. Not a big wine, but very pure flavours.<br />
Wilhelm Walch<br />
4988 Vallée d’Aoste Blanc, DOC Vallée d’Aoste, 2006 9 9 Lovely, simple, grapey aromas and nice easy balance with<br />
Cave du Vin Blanc de Morgex lifted acidity. Good now.<br />
& de La Salle<br />
4989 Enfer d’Arvier, Clos del’Enfer, 2007 8 8 The label looks French, the flavours are closer to France<br />
DOC Vallée d’Aoste, Cave du Vin Blanc than Italy, but it is a delightfully typical mountain wine. Lots<br />
de Morgex & de La Salle of freshness and easy fruit.<br />
4990 Gavi San Pietro, DOCG, Tenuta San Pietro 2008 8 8 Fine wine, but as it ages it will go through a difficult period<br />
where it tastes like old apricots. So, don’t wait. Enjoy it in its<br />
youthful format.<br />
4991 Dolcetto d’Alba, DOC, Vaben, 2008 7 8 Chill it and serve on a hot day. Enjoy the vivid fruit and<br />
Cantina Terrenostre high level of acidity. Really refreshing.<br />
4992 Barbera d’Alba, DOC, Ajé, 2007 6 7 Very good. Modest structure, but all together.<br />
Cantina Terrenostre<br />
4993 Nebbiolo d’Alba, DOC, Bricco Reala, 2006 8 8 As black as a dark cat, with just as many lives, but don’t<br />
Azienda Agricola Bel Colle wait for the ninth, enjoy it this year.<br />
4994 Barbaresco, DOCG, Cantina Terrenostre 2005 6 6 Lovely. A good example of the Piedmont reds. Very attractively<br />
balanced.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
4995 Barolo, DOCG, Azienda Agricola Bel Colle 2005 6 7 Very fine example. Drinking well now.<br />
4996 Soave, DOC, Cantine Delibori 2008 9 9 Quaff and enjoy in large amounts. Not much to it, but it is<br />
clean enough. A sound and decent drink.<br />
4997 Valpolicella Classico, DOC, 2008 8 9 Easy wine for easy drinking. Enjoy this year.<br />
Cantine Delibori<br />
4998 Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Ripasso, 2006 7 7 Lively still. Good structure. Not huge, but quite a powerful<br />
DOC, Cantine Delibori nose and palate. Good now.<br />
4999 Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico, 2005 6 6 Smooth. Unctuous. Tastes like all of the fruit in a<br />
DOC, Azienda Agricola Ca’ La Bionda Christmas cake.<br />
5000 Sangiovese Toscano Rosso, IGT, 2008 8 8 Nothing to write home about, but decent stuff and great<br />
Fratelli Corsi with pasta.<br />
5001 Chianti, DOCG, Fratelli Corsi 2008 8 8 Quite an ordinary wine, but it will give a good account if<br />
enjoyed with food.<br />
5002 Vernaccia di San Gimignano, DOCG, 2008 9 9 A wine that is best when young.<br />
Casa della Terra, Agricoltori del Geografico<br />
5003 Morellino di Scansano, DOC, Tenuta 2008 6 7 From one of Tuscany’s newly found denominations.<br />
Le Preselle, Agricoltori del Geografico Everyone who is anyone piled in, bought land and the wines<br />
are now showing why. This is great and will be better yet.<br />
5004 Chianti Classico, DOCG, Lucignano, 2007 6 6 Fine chocolate and vanilla notes mixed with saddle leather<br />
Gallo Nero, Agricoltori del Geografico and blackberries. Lovely now, but it will keep going on and on.<br />
5005 Rosso di Montalcino, DOC, Castello 2007 7 7 Very big and full. A keeper.<br />
Tricerchi, Agricoltori del Geografico<br />
5006 Chianti Classico Riserva, DOCG, 2005 7 6 Deliciously complete. All of the fruit that is needed to make<br />
Contessa di Radda, gallo nero, it memorable.<br />
Agricoltori del Geografico<br />
5007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, DOCG, 2006 7 7 From one of the most beautiful hilltop townships in Tuscany.<br />
Cerraia, Agricoltori del Geografico When young, its wines are like drinking gravel. This has now<br />
begun to take seriously softer profiles.<br />
5008 Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG, 2004 6 7 This has such life still to come. It could be put aside for<br />
Castello Tricerchi, Agricoltori del Geografico another two years at least.<br />
5009 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, 2008 9 9 Lovely and fresh, enjoy now to capture those characters.<br />
DOC, Follonica,<br />
Casa Vinicola S. Piersanti & C.<br />
5010 Rosso Piceno, DOC, 2008 7 7 Good nose, but as tough as an old army boot. Leave it for<br />
Casa Vinicola S. Piersanti & C. another year.<br />
5013 Orvieto Classico, DOC, Fratelli Corsi 2008 9 9 Don’t risk this white losing its “flower of youth”. Drink this year.<br />
5014 Grechetto dell’Umbria, IGT Umbria, 2008 9 9 Very fine local (Italian) variety. Quality with substance.<br />
Cantina Terre de’ Trinci<br />
5015 “Cajo”, IGT Umbria, Cantina Terre de’ Trinci 2006 7 7 Very fine red. Hold a while longer.<br />
5016 Pecorino Colli Aprutini, IGT, 2008 9 9 Only attractive when youthful. Drink now.<br />
Azienda Agricola Camillo Montori<br />
5017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, DOC, 2008 8 8 A wine from an area that invariably produces rough tannins.<br />
Fratelli Corsi These are rough, but they add to, rather than detract from, the<br />
characters.<br />
5018 Catarrato, IGT Sicilia, Fiordiligi, 2008 8 8 Much more than a mere table wine, but treat as such and<br />
Azienda Baglio Caruso enjoy it this year.<br />
5019 Syrah, IGT Sicilia, Ruggiero, 2007 8 8 Stalwart stuff, drinks well. Full of gutsy gruff tannin.<br />
Azienda Baglio Caruso<br />
5020 Chianti Classico, DOCG, MolinLungo, 2006 7 7 With many Chiantis showing many various styles, it was a<br />
Gallo Nero, Agricoltori del Geografico, pleasure to select this wine that shows all the typcity that<br />
Founders’ Choice made wines of Tuscany so irresistible twenty years ago.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
0<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 188<br />
5022 Château Pique-Sègue Blanc, AC Montravel 2008 8 8 Very fine, young wine in a Bordeaux style. It is ready now.<br />
5023 Château Pique-Sègue Rosé, 2008 8 9 Don’t wait another minute! Chill it, open it and share it.<br />
AC Bergerac Rosé Delicious.<br />
5024 Château Pique-Sègue Rouge, 2007 7 7 Comes from right outside the homestead from the oldest<br />
AC Bergerac vines –it shows good complexity and fine varietal flavours.<br />
Open this year.<br />
5025 Château Dauzan La Vergne, 2007 7 7 Fine wine. Good use of oak. Fine to open now.<br />
AC Côtes de Bergerac<br />
5026 Château Dauzan La Vergne<br />
AC Côtes de Bergerac,<br />
(2 bottles each vintage)<br />
Silver Medal, 2001, Mâcon 1998 9 9<br />
Silver Medal, 2004, Mâcon, &<br />
Coup de Coeur, 2004, Guide Hachette 2001 8 8<br />
Silver Medal, 2005, Paris, 2002 7 7<br />
Silver Medal, 2005, Mâcon, &<br />
2006 Guide Hachette<br />
Open by trial. Enjoy each vintage for what it is and what it<br />
says in the mouth – all are perfectly mature.<br />
5027 Richemont du Château de Sours Blanc, 2008 8 8 Perfectly easy. Lots of ready fruit flavours and good<br />
AOC Bordeaux fresh acidity. Enjoy now.<br />
5028 Château de Sours Blanc, AOC Bordeaux 2008 7 8 Lively and delicious. Ready now, open a bottle anytime.<br />
5029 La Source du Château de Sours, 2007 7 7 A rather old fashioned flavour, it will change greatly, but the<br />
Blanc, AOC Bordeaux fruit will diminish. Better to enjoy before end of 2013.<br />
5030 Richemont du Château de Sours Rouge, 2007 7 8 Quite ready. A little short of red berries, but not lacking in<br />
AOC Bordeaux other fruit characters.<br />
5031 Château de Sours Rouge, AOC Bordeaux 2007 5 6 Juicy, spicy, a welter of red berries and sweet cassis. Can be<br />
enjoyed now.<br />
5032 La Source du Château de Sours, 2007 5 7 All of the wonderful fruit that we have come to expect<br />
Rouge, AOC Bordeaux from this beautiful property. Drink from 2011 onwards.<br />
5033 La Cachette Privée de Sébastien Lamothe, 2007 5 7 Still very shut in. It was made to last, so is currently not ready.<br />
AOC Bordeaux<br />
5034 Petit Cantenac, 2007 6 7 The little brother of Lot 5035 (below). However, in the mouth<br />
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru it is not little at all. In fact, it is wonderfully complete. Enjoy<br />
whenever you wish from now on.<br />
5035 Clos Cantenac, 2007 6 6 The first Grand Cru release from the cellar of the late<br />
AOC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Sebastien Lamothe and Martin Krajewski. Winning medals and<br />
plaudits everywhere, so much so that it is completely sold out.<br />
Very fine promise.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
MICHEL & ANGELITA BAUCé, LA RAYRE, PINEUILH<br />
There were five wines made by Michel Baucé in this offering. Each shows a different face, but all have similar notes of tough, stringy<br />
tannin and it does take a while for that toughness to work its way out. Leave the Michel Baucé wines for another year. Recently tasted,<br />
all five wines were losing their harsh first taste impressions.<br />
5038 Château Haut-Bergeron, AC Sauternes, 2006 6 7<br />
Famille Lamothe<br />
5039 Château Les Bois Noirs, Blanc,<br />
Cuvée Classique, AC Bordeaux,<br />
Michel and Angelita Baucé<br />
2007 7 7<br />
5040 Château Les Bois Noirs, Blanc, Organic 2008<br />
AC Bordeaux, Michel and Angelita Baucé<br />
7 8<br />
5041 Château Les Dames de la Renardière,<br />
Blanc, AC Entre-Deux-Mers,<br />
S.C.E.A. La Renardière<br />
2007 9 9<br />
5042 Château Les Bois Noirs, Rouge, Organic 2008<br />
AC Bordeaux, Michel and Angelita Baucé<br />
7 8<br />
5043 Château Les Dames de la Renardière,<br />
Rouge, Classic, AC Bordeaux Supérieur,<br />
S.C.E.A. La Renardière<br />
2007 7 7<br />
5044 Château le Pré de la Lande, AC<br />
Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux, Cuvée Réserve<br />
de la Famille, Michel and Angelita Baucé<br />
2007 7 7<br />
5045 Château Les Bois Noirs, 2005 7 6<br />
AC Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux, Cuvée Angelita,<br />
Michel and Angelita Baucé<br />
5046 Château le Breuil, AC Côtes de Bourg, 2007<br />
Cuvée Classic, Henri Doyen<br />
7 8 Softening nicely. It can be enjoyed during <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
5047 Château Lafon, Listrac-Médoc,<br />
Cru Bourgeois, Famille Théron<br />
2005 8 8 Very supple, delicious blackberry fruit. Notes of blue plums.<br />
5048 Château Labadie, Cru Bourgeois,<br />
AC Médoc, GFA Bibey<br />
2006 7 7 Delicate, dry, attractive nose. Good fruit.<br />
5050 Domaine de l’Alliance, AC Sauternes, 2006 6 8 Ready now. Perhaps this is a wine that will last as long as<br />
Famille Alibrand you have a cellar.<br />
5051 Château Labatut-Bouchard, 2008 7 8 Superb wine from a brilliant property. No need to wait any<br />
AC Bordeaux, Blanc Sec,<br />
Frédéric & Valérie Méhaye<br />
longer. Your glass awaits your pleasure.<br />
5052 Château de Crain, AC Entre-Deux-Mers, 2008 8 8 Very fine swell of tropical fruits, melon, pineapple and<br />
Michel & Bernard Fougère grapefruit. Ready now.<br />
5053 Château de Fontenille,<br />
AC Entre-Deux-Mers, Stéphane Defraine<br />
2008 7 8 Fine, dry, wonderful fruit. Wholesome fruit notes.<br />
5054 Château Carsin, AC Bordeaux,<br />
Juha Berglund<br />
2008 7 8 Bigger wine than many, but ready all the same.<br />
5055 Château Roquefort, AC Bordeaux, 2008 7 8 One of the new style, variety up-front, Sauvignon led whites.<br />
Jean and Frédéric Bellanger Ready to enjoy in <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
5056 Château de Fontenille, 2008 8 9 Stephane asked Bill Blatch to help with his winemaking.<br />
AC Bordeaux Clairet, Stéphane Defraine The results have always created a wave. This is lovely. Ready now.<br />
5057 Château du Breuil, 2006 7 8 James Gregoire has pots of money, but invests it in making<br />
AC Fronsac, James Grégoire wonderful wines. This is one of them. Start opening this year.<br />
5058 Château Lescalle,<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur, Alain Tessandier<br />
2006 8 8 Now much softer. Ready to open during <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
5059 Château de Fontenille, AC Bordeaux, 2006 6 7 We have watched this château improve over many years.<br />
Stéphane Defraine The wines are great. Drink this from now on.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
Initially appears rather dry, but then fruit piles onto the palate<br />
along with fruity acidity. Good wine. Will last, change and<br />
develop more personality.<br />
Not easy to find much fruit. It is clean enough and drinks quite<br />
well, but there is little to remember.<br />
Supple, good level of easily accessed fruit. Soft entry, tannic in<br />
the middle, ends with long spicy notes.<br />
1
2<br />
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
5060 Château Jouanin, Cuvée Prestige, 2005 6 7 Georges has never let us down, his wines are entirely<br />
AC Côtes de Castillon, Georges Taïx dependable. Try this now.<br />
5061 Château Carsin, AC Premières 2006 7 7 Juha continues to follow in the footsteps of Mandy Jones,<br />
Côtes de Bordeaux, Juha Berglund his original winemaker. The wine is wonderful already.<br />
5062 Château Roland La Garde, Prestige, 2005 7 8 One of the greatest of the less great châteaux. Fantastic<br />
AC Premières Côtes de Blaye, Bruno Martin quality wine. Long lived.<br />
5063 Clos Sainte Anne, AC Premières 2006 6 7 Fantastic wine made by an old Opimian associate.<br />
Côtes de Bordeaux, Marie Courselle Can stay in the cellar for three or four more years.<br />
5064 Château de Lagorce Réserve, 2006 6 6<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur, Founders’ Choice<br />
5065 Château Martinon, Blanc, 2008 8 9 Hard to find anything better than this at this price.<br />
AC Entre-Deux-Mers, Jérôme Trolliet<br />
5066 Prince Pirate Rouge, Cuvée Amitié, N.V. 9 9 Finish the case before the end of summer. You must catch<br />
Vin de Table Français the fruit before it leaves the station.<br />
5067 The Opimian Society’s Claret, N.V. 8 8 This is wine for enjoyment over the year.<br />
AC Bordeaux<br />
5069 Château Maillard, AC Graves, 2006 7 7 Perennially a tough nut. Tannins are still “spikey.”<br />
EARL Château Maillard<br />
5070 Château Haut Sociondo, 2007 7 7 A wine Opimian has offered many times over many vintages<br />
AC Premières Côtes de Blaye, because it is always good value. Try this year.<br />
S.C.E.A. Martinaud et Filles<br />
5071 Château Martinon, Rouge, 2007 7 8 The find of the decade, both red and white. This red is a<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur, Jérôme Trolliet winner. Still tough, but that is no reason not to enjoy.<br />
5072 Château Les Tours Seguy, 2006 7 7 Likely to move quite rapidly. Try a bottle early in <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
AC Côtes de Bourg, J.F. Breton<br />
5073 Château Moulin des Laurets, AC 2007 7 7 Quite supple, but in no hurry to lose its youthful aggression.<br />
Puisseguin Saint-Émilion, Lionel Mounet<br />
5074 Château Croix-Mouton, AC Bordeaux 2006 6 6 Fabulous. Try a bottle this year.<br />
Supérieur, Jean-Philippe Janoueix<br />
5075 Château Vieux Clos St Émilion, AC 2007 6 7 Nowhere near ready. Drink 2014 – 2025.<br />
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, SCEA Terras<br />
5076 Château Canon de Brem, AC Canon 2003 7 8 All the Fronsac wines are slow, give this more time.<br />
Fronsac, SCEA Domaines Jean Halley<br />
5077 Baron de Brane, AC Margaux, 2006 6 6 From one of the greatest vineyards of the Médoc.<br />
Henri Lurton Still unready.<br />
5078 Hortevie, AC Saint-Julien, J-E Borie SA 2006 7 8 A perennial favourite. Ready to open.<br />
5079 Château L’Enclos, AC Pomerol, 2006 6 7 One of the most attractive ‘06s. Drinking well, although<br />
S & D Adams still tastes very young.<br />
5080 20 Mille de Jean-Philippe Janoueix, 2006 4 5 This man, Janoueix, is crazy, but he is a heck of a winemaker.<br />
AC Bordeaux Supérieur, Hold on.<br />
Jean-Philippe Janoueix<br />
5081 Lucia, AC Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, 2001 8 8 Now enjoy.<br />
Michel Bortolussi<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
Cellar Offering 189<br />
5082 Bourgogne Aligoté, AOC 2008 8 9 Drink while the fruit is ripe and fresh. There is nothing worse<br />
than poor fruit.<br />
5083 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune 2008 8 8 Lovely now. It has several years life to come.<br />
Blanc, La Justice, AOC<br />
5084 Saint Romain, La Combe Bazin, AOC 2008 6 7 Fine mineral structure. A very good middle of the road white.<br />
Fine Chardonnay characters.<br />
5085 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune, 2008 6 7 Light and a touch disappointing at the moment. Give it a<br />
AOC year or two in bottle to emerge.<br />
5086 Auxey-Duresses, AOC 2008 6 7 Well structured. Fine fruit. Will be ready by next year.<br />
5087 Beaune, Les Bons Feuvres, AOC 2008 6 6 Lovely, fine Pinot Noir nose that will develop both fine flavour<br />
and aroma profiles over the next year.<br />
5088 Pommard, Les Tavannes, AOC 2008 6 6 Very fine wine. Pinot is so small compared to the heavy weight<br />
reds. Don’t expect more of it than the grape can give.<br />
5089 La Source de Vignelaure Rosé, 2008 8 9 Certainly one of the finest Rosés produced anywhere, and<br />
AOC Côteaux d’Aix en Provence by anyone, in France.<br />
5090 Le Page de Vignelaure Rosé, 2008 8 8 The senior borther of Lot 5089, rather fuller bodied.<br />
Vin de Pays de Méditerranée A food wine.<br />
5091 La Source de Vignelaure, 2007 7 7 Wonderful red wine. Needs time for the concentration to<br />
AOC Côteaux d’Aix en Provence come together.<br />
5092 Château Vignelaure, 2005 6 7 Archetypally full-bodied, a wonderful red from a great property.<br />
AOC Côteaux d’Aix en Provence<br />
5093 Château Vignelaure, AOC Côteaux 2000 8 9 One of the fabulous wines made by David O’Brian. Now mature,<br />
d’Aix en Provence, Magnums it has only gained, rather than dissipated, any of its class.<br />
5094 Sauvignon/Chardonnay, 2007 8 9 A wine of balance, harmony and freshly vigourous acidity.<br />
Caracter de l’Ansée,<br />
Vin de Pays de la Loire<br />
5095 Sauvignon Blanc, AOC Touraine, 2008 8 8 Surely the best Sauvignon Blanc from the Middle Loire<br />
Domaine Gibault vineyards.<br />
5096 Rosé, Frisson d’Été”, 2008 9 9 Light as a feather and dusted with fruit flavours, it is intended<br />
AOC Touraine Rosé, Domaine Gibault to be opened early. Enjoy this year.<br />
5097 Gamay, Friandise, AOC Touraine, 2008 8 9 Fresh. Sappy. Acidic. A delight when served fresh/cool.<br />
Domaine Gibault<br />
5098 Cabernet/Côt, Emotion, AOC Touraine, 2008 7 8 Green and stalky, give it another year in bottle.<br />
Domaine Gibault<br />
5099 Crémant de Loire, AOC Crémant de Loire, N.V. 9 9 Perfect party wine. Not just fizz, but fine wine with a fizz.<br />
Flore and Emmanuel Rialland,<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier<br />
5100 Côteaux du Layon, AOC Côteaux du Layon, 2008 7 7 Take time, this will live for many years.<br />
Flore and Emmanuel Rialland,<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier<br />
5101 Rosé d’Anjou, AOC Rosé d’Anjou, 2008 8 9<br />
Flore and Emmanuel Rialland,<br />
Domaine du Pont de Livier<br />
5102 Pouilly Fumé, AOC Pouilly Fumé, 2008 7 7 One of the best wines of the whole appellation. Good,<br />
Jean-Paul Mollet, Domaine Mollet-Maudry ripe, “sweet” fruit.<br />
5103 Sancerre Blanc, AOC Sancerre, 2008 7 8 A wine that often disappoints, but not this one from<br />
Florian Mollet, Domaine Mollet-Maudry Jean-Paul Mollet.<br />
5104 Sancerre Rouge, AOC Sancerre, 2007 7 7 Looking for elegance? Look no further. This is marvellously<br />
Florian Mollet, Domaine Mollet-Maudry complete.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
5105 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, sur lie, 2008 8 9 Muscadet comes no better than this. Rather fuller bodied<br />
AOC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, than typical for the label.<br />
Yves and Jérémie Huchet,<br />
Domaine de la Chauvinière<br />
5106 St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, AOC Saint 2008 5 6 Oh, the green, green, grass of home – mixed with green<br />
Nicolas de Bourgueil, Domaine Olivier beans, typical and good.<br />
5107 Cuvée Prestige, AOC Chinon, 2008 7 7 Always typical. Always good value. Always dependable.<br />
Domaine Charles Pain<br />
5108 Saumur-Champigny, 2007 6 7 One of France’s most popular Appellations and with this as<br />
AOC Saumur-Champigny, Cuvée Tradition, an example that is no shock. Good wine.<br />
Jean-Luc and Jean Albert Mary,<br />
Domaine de la Cune<br />
5109 Domaine du Vieux Pressoir, Saumur, 2008 7 7 Fine wine that needs more time.<br />
AOC, Les Silices, Founders’ Choice<br />
5110 Chardonnay, Tortoise Creek, 2008 8 8 Lovely. Bags of tropical fruit. Good acid.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
5111 Sauvignon Blanc, Tortoise Creek, 2008 8 8 Fine, stalky, green grassy flavours. Good example of the grape.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
5112 Viognier, Tortoise Creek, 2008 8 8 A touch mineral and a tad light, but there is tons of<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc personality. A good alternative to Chardonnay.<br />
5113 Grenache Rosé, Tortoise Creek, 2008 8 9 Love it ! Enjoy the fresh notes of raspberry and mulberry.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
5114 Merlot-Cabernet, Tortoise Creek, 2008 8 8 Firm. Well fleshed. Very good structure. Will develop well<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc and then last.<br />
5115 Shiraz, Tortoise Creek, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2008 8 8 Easy, but still showing thick strands of grainy tannin.<br />
5116 Lagarde, Vin de Pays du Comté Tolosan 2008 9 9 A fine wine for everyday, especially today.<br />
5117 Lagarde, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault 2008 9 9 Vigorous and energetic. Enjoy during <strong>2010</strong>.<br />
5118 Merlot, La Campagne, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2008 8 8 Good fruit. Warm style. Very easy palate.<br />
5119 Cabernet Sauvignon, La Campagne, 2008 8 8 As good now as when offered.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
5120 Chardonnay, Les Argelières, 2008 8 9 Fine fruit, made to come round early as this is now<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc beginning to do.<br />
5121 Syrah, Les Argelières, Vin de Pays d’Oc 2008 7 8 Earthy. Nose just beginning to show some presence in the glass<br />
5122 Domaine Mondié, Merlot-Syrah, 2008 7 7 Beautfully composed. Not huge, but very well harmonized.<br />
Vin de Pays d’Oc<br />
5123 Château Montouliers, AOC Minervois 2008 7 8 Still quite closed in. Hardly showing any movement.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
5124 Domaine Castan, Les Terres Rouges, 2008 7 8 First notes of tobacco leaf are starting to show,<br />
AOC Coteaux du Languedoc but it will improve further yet.<br />
5125 Château Salitis, Cuvée Premium, 2007 7 7 Very fine wine from a great property. As good as its<br />
AOC Cabardès reputation.<br />
5126 Château La Clotte-Fontane, Cuvée 2008 7 7 The Pages family only make fine wine and this follows<br />
Mathiérou, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc their family tradition. Good balance.<br />
5127 Le Rouge de L’AZEROLLE, AOC Minervois 2008 8 8 Wonderful value. If there is any criticism, it is only that more<br />
fruit would be welcome, otherwise it is lovely.<br />
5131 Les Ombrages, Vin de Pays 2008 9 9 Lovely, perfumed aroma. A very attractive aperitif.<br />
des Côtes de Gascogne Blanc<br />
5132 Les Ombrages, Vin de Pays du Vaucluse, 2008 9 10 Not much fruit, so should be enjoyed this year.<br />
5133 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 8 9<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
5134 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 8 8<br />
Louis Mondeville<br />
5135 Syrah, Vin de Pays d’Oc, Louis Mondeville 2008 8 7<br />
5136 Viognier, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 9 9<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
5137 Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 8 8<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
5138 Grenache Rosé, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 9 10<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
5139 Merlot, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 8 8<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
5140 Pinot Noir, Vin de Pays d’Oc, 2008 8 8<br />
Domaine Peirière<br />
Cellar Offering 190<br />
5141 Syrah, Napa Valley 2005 8 8 Leather, saddles, cassis and joy – all mixed up in one bottle.<br />
5142 Merlot, Napa Valley 2006 6 6 Very ripe, powerful, condensed flavours. Excellent.<br />
5143 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2005 6 7 One of the best wines from the whole of the Napa region.<br />
5144 Enveiere, Napa Valley 2002 8 8 Now the price has been forgotten, only remember how<br />
wonderful this wine now tastes. It is poetry in a bottle.<br />
5145 Estate Pinotage, Stags Leap, Napa Valley 2006 9 9 Wonderful example of a great winemaker’s artistry.<br />
5146 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 8 8 Pungent, powerful and full of rich fruit.<br />
Stags Leap, Napa Valley<br />
5147 Estate Cabernet Franc, 2006 7 7 Leaner cassis notes, but very elegant red notes.<br />
Stags Leap, Napa Valley<br />
5148 Estate RMS Signature Reserve 2006 6 6 Rich, stylish, huge and offers every note of each fruit<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap, component.<br />
Napa Valley<br />
5149 “Pure” Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County 2008 9 9 Pure in name, pure in flavours.<br />
5150 “Pure” Zinfandel, North Coast 2007 8 9 Delicious fruit at the front.<br />
5151 X <strong>Wine</strong>ry “Red X” Cabernet Blend 2007 7 7 Very fine blending operation. Good style.<br />
5152 X <strong>Wine</strong>ry “X 3”, Tri-County 2007 6 7 Too good to rush, let it take its time.<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
5153 X <strong>Wine</strong>ry Nova Vineyards Zinfandel, 2008 8 8 No wonder this is the Golden State’s favourite variety.<br />
Lake County Very rich and full.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
All of these wines come from the single estate of Olivier<br />
Mandeville-Peirière. They all show rather thin, but perfectly<br />
true, varietal characters. None will ever become an absolute<br />
favourite wine, but it is very hard not to praise them for their<br />
straight forward characters that offer decent perfume, good<br />
fruit and fine length. Though, none of those come in much<br />
volume.<br />
All of the wines from the Domaine Peirière are drinking really<br />
well now.
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
5154 X <strong>Wine</strong>ry Spring Mountain Merlot, 2006 8 8 Structured. Poised. Well made.<br />
Napa Valley<br />
5155 Amicus Special Blend, Spring Mountain, 2005 6 8 Marvellously ripe, but perfectly orchestrated.<br />
Napa Valley<br />
5158 Chardonnay, Stone Valley 2008 8 9 Hot vintage fruit, short on acidity. Still OK.<br />
5159 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stone Valley 2007 8 8 Masses of red berries. Juicy. Not much grip.<br />
5160 Merlot, Stone Valley 2007 8 9 Delicious. At its best now.<br />
5161 Old Vine Zinfandel, Angels Creek, Lodi 2008 8 8 Wonderful flavours of the grape.<br />
5162 Petite Sirah, Angels Creek, Lodi 2008 10 10 Not together, the fruit appears separated from the tannins.<br />
5163 Syrah, Angels Creek, Lodi 2008 8 8 Very good example. Fine, flavoursome Central Valley fruit.<br />
5165 Opimian California White N.V. 10 10 Drink up.<br />
5166 Opimian California Red N.V. 10 10 Do not wait longer.<br />
5167 Chardonnay, Butterfly Ridge, 2008 9 9 Great now, full of the tropics.<br />
Monterey County<br />
5168 Pinot Grigio, Butterfly Ridge 2008 9 10 Ripe. Melon-ish. Still good acidity. Balance.<br />
5169 Zinfandel Rosé, Butterfly Ridge 2008 9 10 Almost too late, drink this summer.<br />
5170 Merlot, Butterfly Ridge, Lake County 2007 8 8 Filled with plums – good, attractive structure.<br />
5171 Cabernet Sauvignon, Butterfly Ridge, 2007 9 9 Juicy cassis has come right to the front. Easy.<br />
Central Coast<br />
5172 Cabernet Franc, Butterfly Ridge, 2006 9 9 A touch thin, but typically austere character.<br />
Central Coast<br />
5173 Old Well Vineyards Zinfandel, 2006 9 9 Marvellous. Plenty of reasons to like Zinfandel.<br />
Amador County, Sierra Foothills<br />
5174 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Cuvée, 2006 8 8 Superb. The quality lights the glass like a beacon.<br />
Napa Valley, Riverview Vineyards<br />
5175 Chardonnay, Central Coast, Tortoise Creek 2007 8 9 Mel Master has always over-seen good wine making and<br />
blending. This is very attractive.<br />
5176 Merlot, Central Coast, Tortoise Creek 2006 8 9 Yes, all of the parts are in place. Ready now.<br />
5177 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Coast, 2006 8 8 Still shows some rough tannic edges, but it is great with<br />
Tortoise Creek food now.<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
5178 Fumé Blanc, Paso Robles 2008 9 9 Rather bland. Fruit too ripe, acidity too low.<br />
5179 Chardonnay, Central Coast 2008 8 9 Plenty of quality here. Good weight.<br />
5180 Reserve Viognier, Central Coast 2008 7 8 Slightly oily, but typical of the grape. Very attractive.<br />
5181 Zinfandel, Paso Robles 2007 8 9 Juicy. Mellow. Harmonious.<br />
5182 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2007 7 7 Bell pepper. Tough grained tannins. Balance has still to come.<br />
5183 Merlot, Paso Robles 2006 7 7<br />
5184 Reserve Pinot Noir, 2007 7 8 Too big to be anything but Californian, but good anyway.<br />
Santa Barbara County<br />
5185 Wente Take Seven, Small Lot, 2007 8 8 Too much. Too much of everything to ever see grace,<br />
Central Coast, Founders’ Choice elegance or charm. What a monster.<br />
5186 Melon de Bourgogne 2008 9 10 Amazingly attractive. Don’t delay, grab the freshness.<br />
5187 Chardonnay 2008 9 9 Enjoy it for its fresh characters.<br />
5188 Riesling 2008 9 10 Well made, but lacking fruit persistence.<br />
5189 Cabernet Franc Reserve 2008 10 10 Came round faster than expected.<br />
5190 Sauvignon Blanc, Private Selection, VQA 2008 9 9 Good. Less varietal than many, but a nice drink.<br />
5191 Chardonnay Auxerrois, 2008 9 9 Clean. Dry. It has worked out well, don’t wait any longer.<br />
Private Selection, VQA<br />
5192 Gewürztraminer, Private Selection, VQA 2008 8 8 Never had that “Alsace” character and won’t ever get it,<br />
but it is drinknig well.<br />
5193 Pinot Grigio, Private Selection, VQA 2008 9 9 Peachy, not at all like those Grigios from Italy. Judged on its<br />
own, it is really good.<br />
5194 Gamay Noir, Private Selection, VQA 2008 8 9 Too much acidity and plenty of fruit. Still not entirely together.<br />
5195 Ramón Bilbao Single Vineyard, 2007 8 8 Very good vintage; produced very good wine.<br />
DOC Rioja, Ramón Bilbao<br />
5196 Sierra Almirón Tempranillo, 2007 8 8 Right from the heart of Spain’s wind power country.<br />
DO La Mancha, Finca Antigua Somewhat tough, more tannin than fruit.<br />
5197 Vinea Reserva, Tempranillo, 2003 9 9 Little known region and less known wine, but truly very good.<br />
DO Cigales, Finca Museum<br />
5198 Oriella Tempranillo Crianza, 2006 9 9 Shows the class of good Tempranillo.<br />
DO Vinos de Madrid, Bodegas Oriella<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
7
Lot # <strong>Wine</strong> Year M D Comment<br />
5199 Boeda Tempranillo Crianza, 2004 9 9 Supple. Good drinking.<br />
DO Ribera del Duero, Grupo Yllera<br />
5200 El Linze, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, 2007 9 9 Delicious when young, even better now.<br />
Bodegas El Linze<br />
5201 Torinos, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, 2004 9 9 Drink this year.<br />
Bodegas Torinos<br />
5202 Spiga, DO Ribera del Duero, 2005 7 8 One of the best from the region.<br />
Bodegas O. Fournier<br />
5203 Gretole Chardonnay, IGT Sicilia, 2008 8 9 Delicious. A really good Chardonnay.<br />
Tenute Gretole<br />
5204 Il Sodero, IGT Maremma Toscana, 2007 7 7 Very fine wine for price. Tasting well.<br />
Tenuta Moraia<br />
5205 Regale, DOCG Chianti Classico, 2007 8 8 Tannins getting easier now.<br />
Az. Agr. La Sala<br />
5206 Campo All‘Albero, IGT Colli della 2005 7 8 No worries.<br />
Toscana Centrale, Az. Agr. La Sala<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Tasting Notes
70<br />
SEASON WINE REGIONS LOTS PAGE<br />
2001<br />
S34 California Cabernet Futures 1712 - 1718 3<br />
2002<br />
C142 Italy, Austria, California 2131 - 2188 3<br />
2003<br />
S38 Australia, South Aftrica, Bordeaux, Chablis, Port, 1993 - 1998 3<br />
Cognac, Whiskies, Armagnac, Calvados 2296 - 2315<br />
C146 Chile, Argentina, Alsace, Rhône 2367 - 2416 3<br />
C147 Austria, Italy, California 2418 - 2472 3<br />
C148 Bordeaux, Bergerac 1993 / 1997 / 1998 4<br />
2004<br />
2477 - 2510<br />
S39 Portugal, Champagne, Côte d’Or, Chablis, Bordeaux, Canada 2603 - 2646 4<br />
Port, Sherry, California<br />
C151 Spain, Beaujolais, Côte d’Or, Mâconnais, Alsace 2653 - 2688 4<br />
C152 Rhône, Germany, Argentina, Chile 2690 - 2747 4<br />
C154 Bordeaux, Bergerac 2806 - 2846 5<br />
2005<br />
S40 Bordeaux 2003 Vintage, Spainish Futures 2901 - 2913 5<br />
C156 South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, Argentina 2901 - 2946 6<br />
S41 Côte d’Or, Champagne, California, Canada, 2948 - 3001 6<br />
Cognac, Port, Sherry<br />
C157 Spain, Beaujolais, Rhône 3004 - 3045 6<br />
C158 Alsace , Chile 3049 - 3087 7<br />
C159 Italy, Germany, Austria 3091 - 3131 7<br />
C160 Loire, Bordeaux, Bergerac 3133 - 3179 8<br />
C161 Midi, Provence, New York State 3181 - 3213 8<br />
C162 Canada, California, Spain 3215 - 3279 8<br />
2006<br />
Index<br />
C163 South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina 3281 - 3328 8<br />
S42 Whiskies, Chablis, Beaujolais, Bordeaux, Canada 3330 - 3376 9<br />
C164 Spain, Portgual, Mâconnais, Alsace 3377 - 3426 9<br />
C165 Rhône, Chile 3429 - 3478 10<br />
C166 Italy, Austria, Germany 3483 - 3534 11<br />
C167 Bordeaux, Bergerac 3535 - 3587 11<br />
C168 Provence, Midi, Côte d’Or, Loire 3588 - 3640 12<br />
C169 California, Canada, Spain 3641 - 3691 12<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong>
Index<br />
SEASON WINE REGIONS LOTS PAGE<br />
2007<br />
C170 Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina 3719 - 3748 13<br />
S43 Whiskies, Cognac, Chablis, Côte d’Or, Beaujolais, 3750 - 3800 14<br />
Bordeaux, Champagne, Sherry<br />
C171 Spain, Portgual, Alsace, Mâconnais 3801 - 3851 14<br />
C172 Rhône, Chile 3856 - 3907 15<br />
C173 Italy, Germany, Austria, Greece 3909 - 3960 16<br />
C174 Bordeaux, Bergerac 3961 - 4015 18<br />
C175 Midi, Provence, Côte d’Or, Loire 4017 - 4072 20<br />
C176 California, Canada, Spain 4074 - 4133 22<br />
2008<br />
C177 Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa 4134 - 4212 23<br />
S44 Bordeaux, Chablis, Beaujolais, Canada, Champagne, 4213 - 4278 26<br />
Sherry, Cognac, Whiskies<br />
C178 Portgual, Spain, Mâconnais, Alsace 4279 - 4341 28<br />
C179 Chile, Rhône 4342 - 4412 30<br />
C180 Austria, Germany, Greece, Italy 4413 - 4478 33<br />
C181 Bordeaux, Bergerac 4483 - 4537 36<br />
C182 Provence, Côte d’Or, Loire, Midi 4538 - 4597 38<br />
C183 California, Canada, Spain & Italy 4598 - 4662 41<br />
2009<br />
C184 South Africa, New Zealand, Australia 4663 - 4734 43<br />
S45 Argentina, Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Chablis, Canada, 4735 - 4817 46<br />
Champagne, Cognac, Whiskies, Sherry<br />
C185 Spain, Portgual, Alsace, Mâconnais 4818 - 4886 51<br />
C186 Chile, Rhône 4887 - 4953 54<br />
C187 Germany, Austria, Italy, Greece 4954 - 5021 57<br />
C188 Bordeaux, Bergerac 5022 - 5081 60<br />
C189 Côte d’Or, Provence, Loire, Midi 5082 - 5140 63<br />
C190 California, Canada, Spain & Italy 5141 - 5206 65<br />
<strong>Wine</strong> <strong>Review</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />
71
Songlines Estates Hastwell & Lightfoot Briar Ridge Vineyard & <strong>Wine</strong>ry Westend Estate<br />
Perrin Societe Gardet & Cie Emilio Lustau S.A. Praban Na Linne Unicognac<br />
Vinoseleccion Vina La Rosa Villard Estate Vina Echeverria Avenue SRL. We<br />
Pique-Sègue S.C.E.A. Chateau De Sours S.E.M.A.V. Vintex Chateau Vignelaure<br />
Wente Tortoise Creek Pelee Island <strong>Wine</strong>ry<br />
420-5165 Rue Sherbrooke O • Montréal QC • H4A 1T6<br />
' 514-483-5551 • 1-800-361-9421 • 7 514-481-9699<br />
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