Adventure Magazine

adventure
where actions speak louder than words
where actions speak louder than words
SUMMER
SESSIONS
ISSUE 241
Dec 2023/JAN 2024
NZ $11.90 incl. GST
HIKE > BIKE > CLIMB
SURF > SHOP > TRAVEL

Proceed with caution
In the realm of adventure sports and tourism, where we
chase adrenaline and explorers embrace the unknown, the
reliance on technology has grown exponentially. Among these
advancements, artificial intelligence (AI) grows daily as a
powerful tool, capable of enhancing various aspects of our
lives. However, there are crucial realms where machines should
never replace human expertise, and adventure and adventure
tourism are prime examples.
Adventure thrives on the unpredictable, the wild, and the
unexpected. The essence of these experiences lies in the
human ability to adapt, assess risks, and make split-second
decisions in challenging situations. While AI may excel in
processing data and predicting patterns, it lacks the intuition,
empathy, and instinctual understanding that a seasoned human
possesses. When faced with the unpredictable, relying on AI
algorithms alone can lead to disastrous consequences.
Human guides and experts, intimately connected with the
places they operate in, can instil a sense of responsibility
and respect among travellers. They educate visitors about
sustainable practices, promote eco-friendly initiatives,
and ensure the delicate balance between exploration and
conservation. AI lacks the emotional intelligence to foster such
awareness and appreciation for the environment and local
communities.
safety. Relying solely on AI algorithms to gauge these variables
is a perilous gamble.
Adventure Magazine advocates for the preservation of the
human touch. While AI has its merits, it should never replace
the judgment, expertise, and genuine passion of humans.
Only by embracing the unique qualities of human intuition
and experience can we truly savor the authentic essence of
adventure and ensure the safety, sustainability, and respect that
these thrilling pursuits demand.
So, let's continue to tread carefully, valuing the human spirit of
adventure above all else.
And just when you thought it was safe - A frightening aspect of
this editorial is that it was written totally by ChatGPT - it was all
generated from the question.
‘Why shouldn’t AI be used in Adventure?’
Steve Dickinson - Editor
In adventure, the element of danger is part of the allure, but it
must be managed with utmost care. Humans possess years of
experience, honed instincts, and a deep understanding of the
terrain. They can assess the capabilities of everyone, ensuring
they are appropriately challenged without compromising their

Photo Hannes Berger
SOMETHING FOR NOTHING
Everyone likes to get something extra, so we are doing just
that, starting this Christmas. We have a range of products and
samples relevant to those who are ‘adventurous’ and you will
be getting those from now on in your copy of Adventure when
you subscribe.
In the next issue, you will receive the Adventure Multi-tool,
a stainless steel multi-tool that is credit card size and slim
enough to fit in a wallet. It features a can opener, a knife edge,
a screwdriver, a ruler, a two-position wrench, a four-position
wrench, a butterfly wrench, a saw blade and a direction
ancillary indicator for navigation. Multi-Tool Card can be used
anywhere and is ideal for
outdoor activities. A stainless
steel finish, branded with the
Adventure logo is presented in
a compact PU sleeve.
For each issue we will
endeavour to supply samples
from our top advertisers
and products specifically
curated for you the adventure
subscriber – to subscribe to
the February – visit www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
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BEHIND THE COVER
The cover image is part of the biggest
action photo competition in the world,
boasting over 20,000 entries, the Red
Bull Illume Image Quest 2023; this
category winner was for ‘Energy’, and
you can see why!
Photographer: Hannes Berger,
Athlete: Fabio Wibmer,
Location: Desert, Alsisar, India
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In Your Element
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we ARE tramping
BUNGY - KIWI SMASHES WORLD RECORD
An Auckland man has reclaimed the world
record for the most bungy jumps in 24 hours –
raising more than $7,679 for the Mental Health
Foundation of New Zealand. Mike Heard
exceeded his goal of 800 bungy jumps in 24
hours, with a total of 941 from AJ Hackett
Bungy New Zealand’s Auckland Bridge Bungy
location on October 11th 2023.
Heard says he is stoked with the achievement
and was determined to bring the record back
home to NZ.
“It certainly wasn’t easy, and going into it, I
knew it would be a massive challenge. The
number of jumps we had to hit, added a whole
new level of nerves to this attempt for me”
he says. “But the record needed to be here,
because Bungy was invented in NZ and is
a part of our DNA. Remembering this, and
having the best Bungy crew in the business,
really helped me stay focused and motivated,
especially during the harder jumps.
“What’s even more important is this
experience provided an opportunity to raise
money for a really important cause, mental
health. The Mental Health Foundation is
a charity that helps improve the lives of
thousands of Kiwis with positive support. So
far, Kiwis have generously donated $7,679.”
Heard previously held the Guinness World
Record for the most bungy jumps in 24 hours
in 2017 – with a respective 430 jumps – yet
SUMMER ADVENTURE FOR EVERYONE
Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa has
unveiled two state-of-the-art hydro slides,
adding a $3.2 million thrill to New Zealand’s
premier aquatic experiences.
The newly opened Violet Vortex and Waiau
Winder slides, named by popular vote, set a
new standard. The Violet Vortex provides a
high-speed adventure, with extra twists and
turns, while the Waiau Winder offers a more
leisurely pace with unique visual projection
technology.
The slides replace the original green and
beige slides built in 1998, which were
ridden 17 million times, and join the famous
Superbowl and Conical Thrill slides.
Hurunui Mayor Marie Black officially opened
the slides, emphasising the slides as
was trumped by a Frenchman with 765 jumps
at Highland Bungy in Scotland last year.
AJ Hackett Bungy New Zealand managing
director and co-founder Henry van Asch says
he’s delighted Heard has achieved his goal
and returned the world record to its rightful
home.
“I’ve been bungy jumping for 35 years and I’ve
only done a few more jumps than that myself.
941 jumps in a 24 hour period is a seriously
big effort and I think worthy of not just a world
record but an unofficial title. Congratulations
Mike Heard, Crown Prince of Bungy."
Heard made his first leap on Tuesday at
7am, finishing 24 hours later, on Wednesday,
October 11.
“To achieve something like this, you need
people who will encourage and inspire you,
especially when it gets tough,” Heard explains.
“I am beyond grateful to the team who helped
make this possible and for all the incredible
support.
“Training and preparation are essential, but it
only takes you so far. It is the people you do it
with and for, who really make it all worthwhile.”
Kiwis can continue to support Heard and the
Mental Health Foundation by donating via the
Mental Health Foundation of New Zealand’s
Move for Mental Health fundraising platform.
solidifying Hanmer Springs as a must-visit
destination.
The slides are open now, with extended
summer hours! New Zealand residents are
invited to sign up for the PoolsPlus Loyalty
Card, securing 20% off individual entry prices.
www.hanmersprings.co.nz
Whether it’s a day trip with the family or a multi-day adventure deep into the wilderness, Bivouac has the best
gear, from the top brands, to keep you safe, comfortable, warm and dry. Our friendly staff are happy to provide
expert advice, ensuring you get the right equipment and the right fit. If you need it for tramping, we have it,
because at Bivouac Outdoor we ARE tramping.
Supporting Aotearoa's Backcountry Heritage
Adelaide Tarn
Kahurangi National Park
Photo: Mark Watson
STORES NATIONWIDE
www.bivouac.co.nz

COSTA RICA RIOS
YOUR CHANCE TO OWN AN ADVENTURE PARADISE
Imagine owning a thriving adventure
tourism business in the heart of Costa
Rica's lush rainforests, with the opportunity
to lead a life less ordinary.
Kiwi entrepreneur Jane Tyrrell is offering
exactly that – a chance to win her highly
successful Costa Rica Rios business,
complete with all operating equipment,
two pieces of land, a 2019 4WD truck, and
$150,000 USD in cash. And the best part?
Entry tickets cost just £40 (approx $80 NZD).
Jane's journey from a small-town Kiwi
upbringing to global adventure tourism is
the stuff dreams are made of. Her passion
for travel led her to Costa Rica, where she
and her husband Fraser built Costa Rica
Rios into a world-renowned adventure
experience, attracting visitors from all
corners of the globe. Now, they're ready
to pass the torch to someone equally
ambitious and adventurous.
Growing up in rural North Canterbury,
Jane's childhood was quintessentially
Kiwi – barefoot adventures, camping,
and exploring the outdoors. After years of
traveling the world, she found her calling
in Costa Rica, where her sons were born
and grew up bilingual, enjoying a carefree
childhood surrounded by nature.
Costa Rica, with its happy and friendly
people, commitment to the environment,
and abundant biodiversity, provided the
perfect backdrop for Jane and Fraser's
eco-tourism business. Now, as their
children are growing older, they've decided
to embark on a new adventure – sailing
around the world while maintaining a low
carbon footprint.
To find the next custodians of their
beloved business, Jane and Fraser are
running a competition on Raffall.com,
where participants can enter for a mere
£40 ($80nzd). The winner will receive not
only the business but also both pieces of
land, a 2019 4WD truck, a vast array of
adventure equipment, and $150,000 USD
($254,124.00 NZD).
The company, Costa Rica Rios,
specializes in week-long adventure trips
and whitewater kayaking excursions,
catering to thrill-seekers from around the
world. Additionally, the business organizes
bespoke vacations throughout Costa Rica,
showcasing the country's natural wonders.
To ensure fairness, transparency, and
compliance with all regulations, the
competition is hosted on Raffall.com,
a trusted online platform. In the event
that the minimum ticket sales aren't
met, Raffall.com will draw a winner and
transfer 75% of the revenue generated
from ticket sales to the winner, retaining
25% for their services. Jane and Fraser
won't gain anything but won't lose their
business either, thanks to Raffall's
secure processes, earning the platform a
stellar 4.5-star rating from nearly 16,000
Trustpilot reviews.
This incredible opportunity isn't just about
owning a successful business; it's about
embracing a life of adventure, surrounded
by rainforests and exotic wildlife. The
winner will receive comprehensive training
from Jane and Fraser, ensuring a smooth
transition into their new role. As an active
member of the local Chamber of Tourism
and a registered member of the Costa
Rican Institute of Tourism, Costa Rica Rios
has all the necessary permissions and
insurance to operate within Costa Rica.
So, if you've ever dreamed of running an
adventure tourism business in a tropical
paradise, this is your chance. For just
£40 (NZD$80), you could be the next
owner of Costa Rica Rios, embarking on
a thrilling journey that promises a life less
ordinary. Don't miss this once-in-a-lifetime
opportunity – enter the competition today
and make your dream of a daring and
extraordinary life a reality!
Home to a tiny island
community of 212 people
For more information - www.adventuremagazine.co.nz/kiwi-expats-successful-costa-rica-tourism-business-up-for-grabs-for-80/
6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
jurawhisky.com

Image by Daniel Russo
LAURA ENEVER
SETS GUINNESS WORLD RECORD
Laura Enever has set a new GUINNESS WORLD
RECORDS title for the largest wave surfed
paddle-in (female). The WSL officially analyzed,
measured and verified Enever's 2023 recordbreaking
ride at 43.6 feet (13.3 meters) as part of
the WSL Big Wave Record Chase, making it the
biggest wave ever paddled into by a woman.
She successfully surfed a wave measuring 43.6
feet (13.3 meters) from trough to crest at Outer
Reef, the big-wave break on the North Shore of
Oahu, on January 22, 2023.
"I knew it was big when I paddled into it and then
when I took off I looked down and I knew it was
definitely the biggest wave I've ever caught,"
said Enever. "I knew it was the wave of my life,
the whole way it all came together and the way
I committed, backed myself, told myself to go,
and trusted I could do it. The ride was such a
breakthrough for me and a moment that will be
really special and monumental in my surf career. To
get awarded this months later is really cool, I can't
believe it."
Enever's World Record adds to an already stellar
surfing career. She was the ISA Junior World
Champion and Triple Crown Rookie of the Year in
2008, and World Junior Champion in 2009. In 2011,
Enever qualified for the WSL Championship Tour,
where she competed for seven years, consistently
finishing in the Top 10. She has gone on to
compete in WSL Big Wave events and push the
limits of big wave surfing.
Enever was awarded the GUINNESS WORLD
RECORDS certificate in her hometown of
Narrabeen in New South Wales, Australia, where
she celebrated the accomplishment with her family
and friends.
Enever's record bettered Andrea Moller's previous
record by just one foot, which was caught on
January 16, 2016, at Pe'ahi, Maui. Moller, an
internationally recognised waterwoman, pioneer
of big wave surfing, and respected paramedic,
held the record for seven years. She was the first
woman to paddle into a wave at Pe'ahi, the first
woman to catch a wave in the prestigious Eddie
Aikau big wave contest, and an advocate for
equality and progression in big wave surfing.
About the Measurement Process
The WSL Science Team, led by Michal Pieszk,
Senior Research and Development Engineer of the
Kelly Slater Wave Company (KSWC), collaborated
on the analysis of the largest waves ridden in the
Paddle-In category during the 2022/23 WSL Big
Wave Record Chase season. The team uses a
range of wave-measuring techniques using video
footage, detailed information about the site, the
location of the videographers and the location of
the wave to determine the wave height.
Several frames from the video footage were
extracted and geometrically corrected based
on camera positions and angles. Using known
objects such as jet skis and actual measurements
of Enever's body geometry, it was possible to
calibrate the images for conversion from pixels to
feet. The location of the trough and crest of the
wave was determined from analysis of the video
from two different angles.
Laura's long-time association with both Curl and
Adventure Magazine began when we started
photographing in the Maldives when she was only
15 years old (she is now 31). Congratulations
Laura.
8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 Watch the video : www.adventuremagazine.co.nz/laura-enever-sets-new-guinness-world-records-title-for-largest-wave-surfed-paddle-in-female/
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//9

KYPARISSI
& LEONIDIO
FATE AND FETA IN
GREEK LIMESTONE HEAVEN
Words and photos by Derek Cheng
Father of Lies 8a Babala
Word floated up to the crag that there had been a break-in at the car park.
Most of the others at Babala - the steepest and most famous crag in Kyparissi, on
Greece’s Peloponnese coast - had already descended to see what was what, but we
had little in our rental car that could be stolen.
In ancient Greek mythology, the Moirae are the three goddesses of fate who assigned
everyone’s inescapable destiny according to the grand scheme of things. What had
happened had already happened, so what could we do anyway? These things tend to
work themselves out, somehow.
One more pitch, then.
I racked up below Gaining Elevation, a 7b+ (26) on severely overhanging tufastreaked
terrain but considered the warm-up, given the abundance of harder lines
at the crag. Such climbing is very 3D, involving protrusions of rock columns to be
grabbed, pinched, clung to in any manner possible. It's physical. Strenuous. Known to
trigger hyperventilating.
It is also a joy because it feels particularly improbable, and, for me at least, dependent
on discovering equally improbable body positions to rest or make a powerful move
less powerful.
This may involve an awkward arm-stuff, uncomfortable knee-stuff, or a hand- and
body-jam rest. Or a drop-knee twist to keep your bum from dragging you off the wall, a
heel hook into a tufa armpit which essentially acts as a third hand, or a palm-off which
essentially acts as a third leg.
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

Dusting for prints after the front passenger
window of our car had been obliterated
Kyparissi is a tiny seaside paradise where the only visitors, due to a lack of road access, used to be
the rich and famous who had a helicopter or super-yacht
And then there’s always some kind of body
wrap or full embrace with whatever alien
structure the limestone is presenting you with.
But there’s always a finite level of life-force
on such physical terrain. With my life-force
fading, I pulled up the rope in desperation
to clip the chain-anchor at the top of the
climb, but my fingers holding me to the
wall started failing.
Abort … snatch a hold with my hand
that’s already holding the rope … all as
my belayer eyed the loop of rope slack in
my hand and readied himself for a fall of
intergalactic proportions.
This is another bonus of overhanging tufa
climbing: massive whips are often into
nothing but air. I managed to avoid it this
time by the slimmest of margins, but there
would be plenty of airtime during the trip.
It was dark by the time we trudged down
the hill to the car, where a friendly local
was waiting to tell us where to file a police
report. The carpark is a dirt pit on the side
of a remote mountain road, the perfect
spot for out-of-town gypsies - the prime
suspects, we were told - to have enough
time and gall to smash and grab from
every vehicle.
The front passenger window of our car had
been obliterated, showering the interior
with shards of glass, and an 80m rope was
taken from the trunk. Others had had their
vans in the carpark, and the thieves had
made off with thousands of Euros.
I drove to a local restaurant where police
were taking driver details. A translator,
answering my question of what she did
as the policeman filled out forms, told me
she lived in a nearby town and worked,
cooked, walked but didn't climb, and
"netflix".
I’d sent a message to our Airbnb host
about what had happened and inquired
about a vacuum cleaner to vroom up the
glass-icles. He replied, at 1218am, that he
was "very upset”, and if the police couldn’t
handle it then the local council will, adding
that his "shotgun is armed".
In the morning several of us - a
hodgepodge mix of climbers from around
the world - returned to the restaurant to
meet police investigaters. With coffee and
banter and a view of the pristine waters of
the Myrtoan Sea, it was easy to forget our
unhappy circumstances.
Kyparissi is a tiny seaside paradise where
the only visitors, due to a lack of road
access, used to be the rich and famous
who had a helicopter or super-yacht; it was
supposedly a favourite playground of Bush
Senior, and royal couple Charles and Di.
New road access over recent decades
has still done little to swell its population
of around 400, which is misleadingly large
because they’re split into three suburbs,
two by the coast at opposite ends of a
beautiful bay, and a third slightly higher up
the hill.
It has all the charms of a quaint European
village: narrow roads that weave around
groves of olive, lemon and pomegranate
trees; pebble-beaches that offer warm,
salty dips; white-washed homes with blue
shutters, red-tiled roofs and wee balconies;
an infinite number of cats who cuddle at
your feet as you eat at local taverns.
The hamlet includes a small smattering of
shops including a tiny supermarket and
a bakery with many feta-filled goods, a
coastal trail to a tiny St George church in
the neighbouring bay, and, if you look up,
a plethora of limestone cliffs hugging the
sides of Mount Parnonas.
At the time of writing, the town’s
Wikipedia entry consisted of three
sentences: the town’s whereabouts,
its official municipality, and that it had
recently become a famous rock climbing
destination.
There are several crags that range in
accessibility from the middle of town to a
45-minute drive along magnificent, hilly
roads the plunge to the sea. Most of them
have a handful of excellent routes and are
worth at least a one-day visit, depending
on what grades you’re hunting.
There’s Kapsala and Psilovrachos, where
the best routes are around 7a (23) and
move through an overhanging section on
bright orange tufas and pockets.
There’s the beachside Vlychada, which
includes a scenic drive on a mountain road
that passes through goat farms and then
drops vertiginously to the coast. With a
collection of great routes in the high 6s and
mid-7s (22-25) and a gorgeous setting for
an obligatory after-climb swim, expect a
crowd. And mosquitoes.
Just above the town is Watermill, which
has a steep section of awesome 3D
stalactite-hugging routes in the high 6s
and 7s (22-28), a steeper cave of alien tufa
blobs with 8s (27+), and a wall of vertical,
crimpier routes starting in the 6s (18-22).
And for those hunting harder grades,
there’s Babala. This is the higher and
longer cliffband above Watermill, and is
famous for its tufa-mazes on overhanging
routes up to 50m long. For the privilege,
you walk 50 minutes up 280m of elevation
gain, but at least the air up there is thinner
on those muggy October days.
It is here that one can best practice the
art of tufa-negotiation, which all come into
play on Gaining Elevation.
Firstly, chicken-wing jam via the chimney
between dual tufas past the first few
bolts. Then bridge with wide feet on into
a shoulder scum behind an alien bubblehead
for a no-hands rest just before the
angle steepens further. Pinch some tufas
into a knee-stuff, then move higher until
you can scum the back of your shoulder
into a tufa hip near the top. If you have
enough life-force left, power-scream your
way to the chain via some big moves
between side-pulls.
It’s a spectacular route, as they all are,
with little that climbing in a gym can really
prepare you for.
There’s a sense of going into battle as
you don knee pads and crack gloves
before climbing, and a sense afterwards
of having been through the wars and
The beachside town of Vlychada, offers a gorgeous setting for an obligatory after-climb swim, expect a crowd.
Blue 7a Psilovrachos
Watermill, famous for its tufa-mazes on overhanging routes
Tiresias, 7c+ Babala
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13

Glistening in the sun above the town of Leonidio is a giant band of red cliffs, but with so many crags to choose from.
emerged a more seasoned - and hence a
more complete - human being. Or at least
a more exhausted one, and hopefully
somewhat satisfied.
The satisfaction was momentarily
punctured by the gypsy break-ins. The
following morning, a police officer dusted
the outside of the passenger door and
trunk for fingerprints. Not their first rodeo:
the buggers had worn gloves.
“What can I say?” the officer said to me,
as if I were expecting miracles, which I
wasn’t. “Shit happens.”
Afterwards the Airbnb owner loaned me
his vacuum cleaner. He did not offer his
shotgun, nor did I inquire after it.
Lacking full insurance and with no car
repair service in Kyparissi, the silver lining
was an obligatory 90 minute-drive north
to Leonidio, another of Greece’s famous
climbing destinations. We pulled into the
local garage there to be greeted by a short,
portly gentleman with an enormous smile,
a golden thumbs up, and zero English. He
managed to communicate that I should
come back the day before my flight out of
Athens and, according to Greek legend,
everything will be as it should be.
This meant, burden of burdens, that we
had to kill two days in Leonidio. The town
is 10 times the size of Kyparissi, with
a farmers’ market, cafes, restaurants -
even a climbing shop. It is famous for its
agricultural goods - including aromatic
tomatoes, sumptuous olives and sweet
eggplants - and for monasteries hidden in
mountain crannies.
We were relatively inconspicuous in
Kyparissi, given the small footprint that
climbers had on the small village, but
in Leonidio I felt like one of an army
of invaders: hundreds of climbers,
their commerce clearly welcomed by
merchants, but I wondered whether other
locals welcomed the influx.
Glistening in the sun above the town is a
giant band of red cliffs, but with so many
crags to choose from and only two days,
where to?
The crag Mars is named for its wall of
saturated red and other-worldly features.
The first 20m is slightly overhanging tufa
and stalactite goodness mostly in the
mid to high 6s (20-22), while the 20m
extensions are a combination of pockets,
fins and slopers in the 7s (23-28).
The routes are only nine years old but so
popular that many of the first footholds are
already glassy. This did not detract from
the awesomeness of the day, however.
My final day was reserved for Elona, the
Leonidio equivalent of Kyparissi’s Babala.
So sacred is the stone that there is a
monastery literally carved into the side of
the mountain.
Its immaculate golden rock is streaked with
blue, interweaving and textured tufa veins
on sustained, 50m walls that overhang
at least 30 degrees in most places. It is a
sublime wall, with sublime climbs, and I
put my tufa lessons to the test on the crag
warm-ups, wrapping any limb around any
rock protrusion where possible.
On the aptly-named Kneebaropolous
(7a+/24), I had to rely on milking an
average hand-jam right before - in a
replay of Gaining Elevation - punching
it to the top and managing a desperate
clip just before my body went limp with
exhaustion.
I was then too spent to send Diet Dope
(7b), Leonidio’s first rock climb and a
stellar one at that, but I considered my
tufa education in Greece to have yielded
more than enough satisfaction.
The question now was what fate the
Greek Gods had delivered for the rental
car. We jumped into our group’s second
vehicle and snaked our way down an
impressive canyon, through Leonidio, to
the garage.
The smiley gentleman had not only
replaced the window, but also the dented
panels between the doors. It was as if no
gypsy attack had ever taken place.
In Athens, the rental company didn’t blink
an eye when it came to returning the car.
It looked exactly as it did when I’d driven
off with it two weeks ago.
These things have a way of working out,
sometimes.
Right: Diet Dope (7b), Elona, Leonidio’s first rock climb and a stellar one at that
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15

CRANKWORX
ROTORUA
CELEBRATING A DECADE OF
MOUNTAIN BIKE EXCELLENCE
Set amongst the breath-taking landscapes and hero dirt
of New Zealand, Crankworx Rotorua is launching the
2024 Crankworx World Tour this coming March 16-24.
The tenth edition of Crankworx Rotorua is set to feature
an impressive line-up of international athletes, as well
as some of the top New Zealand riders, including local
legend and King of Crankworx, Tuhoto-Ariki Pene.
For Tuhoto and his fellow Aotearoa riders, having such
a big event on their back doorstep means a lot, with the
festival allowing local riders to "see first-hand what level
[they] need to be at before heading across the oceans to
race [at Cairns, Innsbruck, and Whistler]." Reminiscing
on how the past 10 years of Crankworx Rotorua have
“flown by,” Tuhoto continued: "I remember my first
Crankworx Rotorua, when I raced the downhill as a little
grom. I’m looking forward to seeing my mates again,
having that race vibe and maybe throwing down some
whips with the boys.”
When asked about the feeling of being Crankworx King
in his hometown, Tuhoto admits “I’m not too sure how to
feel. It should be exciting, I’m happy to be holding that
title in front of my hometown.”
The Rockshox Taniwha Downhill race will once again
kick off the festival, from Saturday 16th March in the
flora and fauna of the Whakarewarewa and Tītokorangi
Forests where fans can spectate for free or watch the
race live on Red Bull TV. This high adrenaline and
now iconic race promises to be a thrilling start to the
international mountain bike season, with Cat 1 UCI
points up for grabs.
Yannick Granieri during Crankworx Slopestyle
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17

The festival will then continue from the 20-24 March at its original
home on the slopes of Mount Ngongotahā, where Crankworx Rotorua
first broke ground in 2015 at Skyline Rotorua. All the crowd favourites
will be on the schedule, including AirDH, Whip-Off, Speed and Style,
Dual Slalom, Pump Track and Slopestyle. The Crankworx Rotorua
Expo will return with the latest and greatest gear and brands, as
well as the Kidsworx Events and Arena for the young groms to get
involved in the festival.
2024 will also bring the inclusion of the North Island Schools MTB
Champs in the Crankworx Rotorua festival, this will be co-hosted
alongside the Rotorua Mountain Bike Club with event partners
Cycling NZ Schools and School Sport NZ. These championships will
draw school students, support staff/representatives and their families
from across the North Island to Rotorua, to compete in forest-based
events from the 17-19 March.
The festival is aiming to increase the inclusivity and youth
engagement in the world of mountain biking, with a focus on
encouraging students from Year 1 to Year 13 to experience the
festival in both ‘on the bike’ and ‘off the bike’ environments. This
initiative underscores Crankworx Rotorua’s commitment to nurturing
and engaging our rangatahi, ensuring the long-term vibrancy of the
sport within our spirited community.
Event Director Ariki Tibble, says, “Over the next few months our
Crankworx family will reflect on a decade of countless legacy
moments, but if there is anything that demonstrates our commitment
to Rotorua and the future, it's the focus that the 10th anniversary
edition of this festival will have on our Young People and our local
community.”
“What sets us apart from so many sports events is that we are equal
parts sport and spectacle – our festival crosses so many boundaries
and we are really looking forward to making sure that there is
something for everyone in 2024.”
The crowd at Crankworx Rotorua- Image by Jay French
“What sets us apart from so
many sports events is that
we are equal parts sport
and spectacle – our festival
crosses so many boundaries
and we are really looking
forward to making sure
that there is something for
everyone in 2024.”
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

Clockwise from above: King of Crankworx, Tuhoto-Ariki Pene / Neils Bensink in action at Crankworx Rotorua - Image by Clint Trahan
Crankworx Rotorua Crowd - Image by Clint Trahan
Over the course of nine years, Crankworx Rotorua has become
a pivotal force in stimulating the local economy, with a direct
investment of at least $7.7 million NZD into various local
suppliers. Notably, this figure would likely be more substantial
when adjusted for inflation. This has led to an economic impact
of $34.5 million NZD as of March 2023 which can be further
dissected into $22.3 million NZD as domestic spending and
$12.1 million NZD from international attendees.
Crankworx consistently promotes tourism in Rotorua with spectators
at the event staying an average of 4.4 nights across all nine events
delivered to date. The global impact of Crankworx is evident in its
broadcast viewership, which surpassed 1.2 million views in 2023
alone, solidifying its status as a truly global phenomenon.
Beyond the financial metrics, Crankworx Rotorua has proven to
be a substantial driver of employment opportunities. Over the
nine-year span, the event has consistently created or sustained
jobs, ranging from an estimated 44 to 60 full-time equivalent
positions annually. This multifaceted impact, encompassing
economic, tourism, and employment spheres, positions
Crankworx Rotorua as not merely a sporting event but a
dynamic engine for local prosperity and global recognition.
Crankworx Rotorua will continue to mark the start of the World
Tour season and proudly set the standard for the year ahead.
With ground-breaking announcements to follow in the coming
weeks, the 2024 festival will commemorate a decade of
unparalleled mountain biking experiences in a big way.
The Regent of Rotorua
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heart of mountain biking paradise
Experience the best of Rotorua at Regent of Rotorua, offering boutique
accommodation, an outdoor heated pool, indoor geothermal mineral pool,
mountain bike cleaning and storage area, and an award-winning restaurant
offering breakfast, lunch, high tea and dinner.
Discover Rotorua’s world-class mountain biking tracks and activities, all at
your doorstep.
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Rotorua
P: +64 7 348 4079
W: regentrotorua.co.nz
Whip off, Rotorua Crankworx
Image by Joel McDowell
“Crankworx Rotorua
will continue to
mark the start of the
World Tour season
and proudly set the
standard for the year
ahead. ”
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21

DURATION AND INTENSITY
Sam is planning to ski for between 10 and 12 hours every day,
across the two-month expedition, so there will be long days
on the ice. Managing his work rate will literally be difference
between aborting and finishing the expedition; and even
staying alive.
SAM COX
POLAR EXPLORER
Polar explorer Sam Cox tells us what it takes to attempt a
world first solo unsupported Antarctic expedition.
Humans have always attempted to push themselves to
extremes, whether in harsh unforgiving environments or
over huge distances.
As an Antarctic explorer, Sam Cox is set to do both.
This November, he departs the UK for the Antarctic where
he is attempting a world-record-breaking expedition to
complete the first solo, unsupported, crossing of the
continent.
But what does it take to embark on such an epic adventure?
We caught up with Sam ahead of his expedition to discuss
the physical requirements he will need to complete his
eighty-day adventure.
ENVIRONMENT
Sam will be experiencing some of the harshest
environments on the planet. With temperatures plunging to
-27 degrees (and occasionally colder) Sam’s body will have
to adapt to live in this unforgiving climate.
The good news is that the body is a complex machine
capable of adapting. Training in similar environments like
northern Sweden and Norway will help Sam to recognise
and manage the conditions he will be working in.
Sam will be skiing for long periods in extreme negative
temperatures, so will also have to manage his own body
temperature through his work rate, clothing, and day-to-day
life management.
He doesn’t want to overheat and sweat – that would cause
a whole new set of problems when it then freezes!
“Every day when I pack up and leave camp, I need to start
feeling pretty cold,” says Sam. “However, the work rate of
skiing and pulling a sled quickly warms you up.”
Throughout the expedition he is therefore aiming to maintain
a consistent level of exertion which will be the equivalent of a
“brisk walk up a hill”.
“I like to call it conversational exercise,” adds Sam. “So the
level of intensity where you can maintain a conversation
without getting out of breath. It's a slow and steady progression
across the ice. Some might call it a plod!”
However, maintaining a consistent level of work rate will be
affected by an array of external and physiological factors. “The
type of ice I'm travelling over, the obstacles I need to get over,
wind direction and speed, ambient temperature and weather
conditions can all play their part in the distance I’ll cover while
maintaining the same level of exercise intensity.
“On the ice I could measure my heart rate to give me an
indication of how hard I’m working. However, in reality I’m
not going to want to dig through layers of clothing on a
regular basis to check the display, so an understanding of my
perceived exertion, literally how I feel, will almost definitely be
most accurate way of maintaining a steady work rate.”
CARDIOVASCULAR FITNESS
It goes without saying that you can't take on an extreme feat
of endurance without a significant base level of cardiovascular
fitness. However, the fitness required for an expedition like
Sam's is very different to that of an ultra-runner or rugby player.
Sam needs to be fit for the task ahead.
That means that Sam's body must be conditioned to endure
low intensity exercise over a long period of time.
This starts in the gym with long low-intensity sessions and
extends out into the mountains where Sam has spent time
developing multi-day training opportunities to replicate the
conditions and level of intensity he will experience during the
expedition.
Over time, Sam's heart, lungs, muscles and circulatory system
have all being trained to work for long periods at that low
intensity.
Sam explained; “Am I the fittest I've ever been? That's a
difficult question to answer. The answer would be no if you're
talking about running or explosive activities like rugby that I’ve
played in the past, however for low intensity endurance work
I'm in the best shape ever.
“And the reason for that is that I’ve been preparing my body
over the last two years to cope with the environments and
intensity I will experience on this expedition. I've had to train
my body for a different type of fitness.”
Polar Explorer, Sam Cox
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23

“Although heavy, the effort
required to pull the sled over
uniform ice is significantly less
than carrying a rucksack.”
STRENGTH
On an expedition of this nature it will not always be a
consistent smooth steady state of exertion. There will be
situations where Sam will be required to use explosive
strength.
As part of his preparation Sam will be pulling a sled packed
with over 160 kilogrammes of kit. That's over 25 stone, or
the equivalent of two fully grown men.
“Although heavy, the effort required to pull the sled over
uniform ice is significantly less than carrying a rucksack,”
says Sam. “It does, however, require a fair bit of strength to
get over that initial inertia - but once you're going it's about
maintaining a steady even pace, keeping the connection
between me and the sled as consistent as possible.”
However, the ice will not be consistently flat, and Sam will
need to navigate and manage the 160 kilogram sled over
ice waves, called sastrugi, some of which can be over a
metre tall, and other obstacles on the way to and across
the Antarctic plateau.
Core strength and the ability to manoeuvre his sled around
or over these obstacles requires significant levels of core
muscular strength.
Fortunately, Sam has developed good upper body strength;
focussed weight training in the gym has also enhanced this
to help him cope with manhandling his sled over obstacles.
TECHNIQUE
In any feat of endurance, efficiency is key.
Efficiency can be achieved through planning, choice of
route, and of course good technique.
“That’s something I've really focused on this year,” adds
Sam. “The more efficiently I can travel across the ice,
the less weight I'll need to carry and the quicker I'll reach
my goal. It could even mean the difference between a
successful and aborted expedition.
“Efficiency savings are compounded due to the duration of
this expedition. If better technique allows me to travel an
extra 500 metres a day, that could potentially add up to 40
kilometres difference and days of saved time, by the end of
the expedition.”
“I’ve been specifically focusing on my skiing technique to
make sure I’m as efficient as possible whilst pulling such a
heavy load behind me.
“With this comes the other techniques that I’ll be required
to carry out every day, such as putting up the tent, making
water by boiling snow, as well as my 10-minute breaks that
I’ll be taking every 90 minutes.
Sam in training at the Frozen Dagger Training Camp in Norway
Image by Chris Shirley at Haus of Hiatus
“Getting quick at these small routines affords me another
level of efficiency as I’ll be warm and fed quickly.”
24//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25

Training for the overnight cold
FOOD AND FUEL
It may not surprise you that embarking
on an expedition of this nature requires
a huge amount of fuel. It's estimated that
Sam will be taking in upwards of 7600
kilocalories a day. That's the equivalent of
over 15 Big Mac burgers, or two and a half
Colin the Caterpillar cakes!
Everybody burns fuel in a different way.
Some of this is based on genetics, but the
body also adapts to levels of fitness, diet
and environment.
The rate at which an individual burns
through fuel is also non-linear. For example,
maintaining 7km per hour on a treadmill,
Sam burns just over 500 kilocalories an
hour. However, go just a little bit faster than
7Km an hour, and Sam doubles his energy
expenditure. This is the point at which the
body switches from using fats as a source
of fuel and turns to stored carbohydrates
instead.
Let us take you on
a great adventure...
So pacing is a critical factor that will
determine how much food Sam will need.
Fortunately, due to Sam’s training and
level of fitness (possibly also partly down
to his genetics) he is able to maintain a
relatively high intensity before seeing a big
increase in fuelling requirements.
“If Sam's physiology was the other way
around and he was a big carb burner we
would have had to completely change his
metabolism to best suit the event,” said Dr
Barney Wainwright from Leeds Beckett
University. “Tests like the one Sam went
through help to inform the team about his
current state of metabolism, which in turn
inform his training regime.
“If Sam was to start an expedition like this
being more of a carb burner, I think he
would struggle to finish because he would
not be able to carry enough fuel.”
Genetically, Sam was born to be an
Antarctic explorer! As it is likely Sam will
be burning through his fat stores during
the expedition, in the weeks and months
leading up to his departure Sam will be
increasing his calorie intake. This is not
about consuming a high fat diet; more
that he’ll be looking to consume excess
calories to store for the expedition.
PHYSICAL RESILIENCE AND
DELAYING FATIGUE
Often the delineation between high
level athletes is not their peak physical
capacity, but the ability to delay fatigue.
To withstand repeated periods of exercise
intensity. That's quite difficult to measure,
but repeated exercise over multi-day
activity can help the body adapt and offset
the cumulative effect of exercise. In effect
you can train yourself to be more resilient.
"One of the key markers of fatigue can be
quickly tapping into glycogen stores,” adds
Dr Wainwright. “This will affect the ability
“Training for an Antarctic expedition is very different
from an elite sports person training to be the best at
his or her sport. It's about preparing my body for the
temperatures, intensity and duration of an expedition
that's likely to take up to 80 days to finish."
for people to perform day after day, what you
might refer to as resilience, something that
is essential for Sam’s expedition. Fortunately
that's not the case for Sam."
“One of the key things that happens over multiday
training is an adaptation of fat oxidation,
the body's ability to use fat stores rather than
burning carbohydrates. So Sam's current level
of physiology suggests he has a natural ability
for polar expeditions, and his training has
prepared his body for the task ahead.”
The only way to understand the long-term
effect on the body of multi-day endurance
training, would be to regularly test and
assess those changes over time
Dr Wainwright added; “Most likely, based
on the figures from his tests, Sam’s body is
trained well for this world record-breaking
expedition.”
PREVIOUS DATA
As Sam's expedition is so unique, there's
very little data around the physiological
requirements for taking on such a challenge.
There are some academic studies, but they
tend to be on a shorter, less intense model.
Sam is breaking new scientific boundaries,
using the best data, and tests, available to
him. In fact, Sam has even struggled to get
a complete map to plan his route! Breaking
new boundaries, likely stepping where no
human has stepped before, comes with its
own challenges.
THE EXPEDITION ITSELF
Ultimately the human body is very effective
at finding the easiest way to complete a
task. Sam’s body will find the most energy
efficient way of travelling, whether that
be his stride length or a particular way
of moving. Therefore, to prepare for the
expedition Sam needs to replicate the
conditions and intensity of the activity ahead
as closely as possible.
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“Training for an Antarctic expedition is very
different from an elite sports person training
to be the best at his or her sport. It's about
preparing my Free body for NZ the Shipping temperatures, on
intensity and duration of an expedition that's
likely to take up orders to 80 days over to finish,” $150 said for
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conditions and physical impact of the
expedition.
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“I'm now focused on preparing myself to the
best of my ability so that when we take our
first steps in November I'm in the best shape
possible.”
Sam has been supported by Team Forces
and Resilient Nutrition to embark on this
epic adventure.
For more information, follow Sam on
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TRIP GRADINGS
WHAT THEY REALLY MEAN
Words by Eric Skilling
My feet ached. Every muscle in my legs and down my
back screamed “enough!”. I cursed every gram of all
the little extras I had packed. All banter, conversation,
identifying bird calls, pointing out unusual plants, and
dad jokes had ceased some time ago. Just the sound
of six pairs of heavy boots thudding on the track, the
scrape of foliage against packs, and heavy breathing.
Every few metres I would lift my gaze, desperately
searching for the next yellow marker. Losing the route
earlier in the day was a cue for some light-hearted
banter. At this moment, eight-hours later, announcing
the need to back-track would be followed by a lynching.
There were numerous magnificent native trees towering
over us, presenting plenty of places to swing a rope.
Overhead, the canopy of one of the most stunning
beech forests in New Zealand protected us from the
summer sun. Native birds called out as we passed. I
didn’t care. We could have been anywhere. I was totally
focused on the next rock, exposed root, or broken
branch ahead. Each one another obstacle to be sizedup,
energy summonsed, cleared, and then forgotten.
Heading for the top Old Man Track. Photo Chris Bilham
“Gut-busting climbs, moralesapping
traverses, and kneepopping
descents until finally
arriving jelly-legged and
dehydrated at a corrugated,
5-bunk hut”.
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29

Seemingly endless traverses were the most demoralising.
Our feet fought for grip as we struggled across the steep,
sloping angle of the ridge, desperately trying to stay upright
on the ground covered in a layer of damp, dead and
greasy beech leaves. Ironically, I was partially dehydrated
– despite passing Lake Chalice and crossing several small
streams. Perhaps I’d been fooled by the coolness of the
forest earlier in the day. I had forgotten to drink until it was
too late.
The track guide classified the Old Man Circuit, Richmond
Park, as “Advanced”, or “Track is mostly unformed, may be
rough and steep. Track has markers, poles, or rock cairns.
Expect unbridged river crossings.” All true, but a more
appropriate description would read “gut-busting climbs,
morale-sapping traverses, and knee-popping descents
until finally arriving jelly-legged and dehydrated at a
corrugated, 5-bunk hut”.
Incredibly, after ten hours effort we were on the same
contour line as our parked van, two ridges away. Although
we had climbed above 1,500 metres on two occasions,
we had also descended to as low as 700 metres at Lake
Chalice. Officially we had scaled over 1,150 metres only
to negotiate the equivalent downhill. Unsurprisingly, I kept
that fact to myself.
By way of comparison, “advanced” grading is also applied
to the 20km route from Makarora to Young Hut on the
Gillespie Pass Track. Here trampers follow a clear path all
the way from start to finish and ascend a mere 400 metres
in elevation. This implies a much less intense adventure. If
you had just completed Old Man Circuit, you would wonder
what all the fuss was about.
Unfortunately, the route is way further south than
Richmond Park, and well into the rugged Southern Alps.
Consistent with that alpine environment, weather changes
can bring plummeting temperatures, rain and as we were
to discover, snow. In late November. Within an hour of
setting off from Blue Pools car park, numbingly cold rain
began to fall. Slippery conditions made hauling ourselves
up the chains alongside the slip at the Young River a major
exercise, sapping our energy.
Crossing what were once insignificant streams had
become alarmingly challenging. Halfway, one of our party
irritated an old injury and we were forced to abandon the
trip. Several hours later we emerged onto the grassy flats
with snow lining the surrounding hills less than a couple
of hundred metres above us. Our submission for grading
would have been “beanies and gloves essential, keep
four layers very handy, expect very slow progress in rain.
Horrendous river crossings”.
Officially, the same gradings, but distinctly contrasting
experiences.
At the other end of the spectrum, “Easy, Walking Track”
is described as “Gentle walking. Some tracks suitable
for mountain biking. Track is mostly well formed; some
sections may be steep”. These words are applied to
Roy’s Peak Lake Wanaka, and Te Waihou Springs on the
outskirts of Putaruru.
Aptly described as gentle walking, Te Waihou has
boardwalks and frequent signs with interesting facts.
Even the few wooden steps have handrails. This is
pushchair country so take the toddlers – if they get tired
just stick them in the pushchair. Enjoy three leisurely
hours meandering alongside some of the clearest waters in the
world and get to enjoy some “forest bathing”. Altogether a truly
rejuvenating, restful experience.
Te Waihou is nature doing her thing. Its purity is evident in the
clarity and fascinating blue hue. Appreciate that the water you
see flowing beside you has been filtering for up to 100 years
before it erupts from the underground spring. To add some
perspective, the waters nearby began their journey decades
before the start of World War II. No micro-plastics here.
Unsurprisingly, this natural treasure or taonga demands respect.
The temptation to swim is huge, but even if you were arrogant
enough to ignore the signage and selfishly indulge yourself, the
water temperature seldom reaches above 11 degrees.
Apparently, wandering along the boardwalks of Te Waihou
is in the same category as scaling Roy’s Peak near
Wanaka. Both are described as “Easy”, but provide very
differing, dare I say contrasting experiences.
If there was a scale for effort involved versus worldclass
vistas, Roy’s Peak would be up there with the best.
Personally, I’ve taken in these magical views from the
summit on two occasions and would gladly make the
5-hour return trip anytime. The gravel 4WD farm track
switches and climbs through grasses and alpine tussock,
offering uninterrupted views of Lake Wanaka stretching
out below. The higher you climb the more breathtaking the
panoramas, from Wanaka township to the top of the lake at
Makarora, and the road to Haast Pass.
Ilva celebrating the rewards after huge effort on Old Man Track
"If there was a scale for effort
involved versus world-class
vistas, Roy’s Peak would be up
there with the best."
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"Trip gradings are meant only as a
very generalised guide, and plenty
more detailed research is necessary
if you want to understand what
conditions you may encounter."
Ilva crossing the Goulter river towards the end of a big 5-day tramp
Blister a badge of honour after conquering Roys Peak
Cold trampers emerging from Gillespie pass track with surrounding
hills snow-capped
Ingrid enjoying the tranquility of Te Waihou Springs
It is popular. Most walkers stop just below the summit on the
eastern side and queue up for the now famous selfie from the
top of a small ridge, with the sparkling blue Lake Wanaka as a
backdrop. Amazingly, many folks miss out on the 360-degree
views from the summit, only about 200 metres further up. The
view of the Southern Alps from here must be one of the most
unique spectacles anywhere in New Zealand. To the northwest
the wide, meandering Matukituki river valley leads its way to a
mass of ice-topped peaks, dominated by the 3,033 metre Mt
Aspiring/Tititea. To the south the slopes of the Crown Range
and Pisa Range look deceptively gentle compared to these
rugged peaks to the west.
But this is no amble along the banks of the Te Waihou.
“Suitable for mountain biking”. Who are they kidding? Downhill
maybe. After a helicopter ride to the summit. No way can it
be described as pushchair or toddler friendly. The trail begins
almost as soon as you step out of the carpark alongside the
main highway. It starts with a climb. In fact, apart from a small
section within sight of the top, and a 50-metre section midway,
it literally does not stop climbing for 8 kilometres. Te Waihou
Springs it is not.
Admittedly it is a 4WD track with plenty of switchbacks, but be
prepared to surmount 1,239 metres, one step at a time. It’s
hardly Mt Aspiring but come prepared with water and food,
as even for those with reasonable fitness will feel some pain.
I have witnessed a reasonably experienced tramper decide
to stop halfway to “enjoy a leisurely morning tea” and to “take
in the views” and meet us on our return. I have also seen
some impressive heel blisters. Let’s just say that wearing new
footwear is unwise.
In summer this east-facing track will get hot, especially if there
is no breeze, and there are no water-stops. But with the peak
summiting at 1,559 metres, it can become very windy and cold
at the top.
And then there is descending. Losing a toenail is a very
painful way to find out your shoes are a tad too small, or
not appropriate for a continuous 8km descent on tired legs.
Compensating these issues, you do get to enjoy looking out
at the view all the way down. And then, within 15 minutes of
starting the car engine, you can be in Wanaka supping on a
cool, cleansing ale and munching on some hot chips, while
enjoying the view of the lake and Roy’s Peak in the distance.
OK, so maybe my comments have been a little tongue in
cheek. Trip gradings are meant only as a very generalised
guide, and plenty more detailed research is necessary if
you want to understand what conditions you may encounter.
Obviously, doing the homework before venturing into the
wilderness will significantly improve your experience.
Regardless, with summer here, it’s time to get out there - as
we say, “actions speak ……”
I chose to use Backcountry, Jetboil, Macpac and Keen products
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32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

GUY COTTER:
EVEREST
MOUNTAIN
GUIDE
THE REMARKABLE STORY OF
A KIWI MOUNTAINEER
The book follows the career of Guy
Cotter, Kiwi mountaineer and mountain
guide, who has been leading guided
ascents of Mt Everest from the early
1990’s. Everest Mountain Guide is
an authentic and riveting behindthe-scenes
insight into what actually
transpires on the mountain, the huge
challenges faced by both guides and
climbers, and the life and death dramas
that inevitably unfold. Guy Cotter is one
of the most respected and experienced
Everest guides in the world.
We asked Guy Cooter a few questions
about his new book Everest Mountain
Guide - The remarkable story of a
Kiwi mountaineer, about himself, the
motivation behind the book and the
process of writing it.
Guy, how would those that know
you describe you? I don’t know,
you’ll have to ask them! But seriously
I would imagine they might say I’m a
focused person when pursuing goals
that resonate with me. I’ve been told I
am humble, but I think that is because
I believe that the sum of who we are is
reflected in the relationships we have
with other people and not based on the
achievements we have accomplished.
Achievements (in my own view) are
merely the result of the activities
one does to gain stimulation and
satisfaction as I like to challenge myself
as opposed to do things to impress
others.
Simply Why? – what was the
motivation for writing this book.
I wanted to make a record the era I
was involved in on Everest, which was,
the 3 decades since outset of the first
guided ascents we made in the early
1990’s - through to today. So much
evolution went on through these years
that was never written about and I felt
it important to record that. It started
as an expanded dairy covering my
personal journey that I could pass on to
my kids but then I figured I’d approach
a publisher to see whether there would
be any interest in a book. Thankfully
Robbie Burton (Burton and Potton
Publishing) expressed interest and,
along with editor Jude Watson, helped
me cobble it into a readable form fit for
public consumption.
Is there a cathartic aspect to writing
a book like this, a lot of stress and
emotion that needs to be written
down to be processed? Yes, I
realised when I was writing it that there
were chapters on my life I had buried
and moved on from, not consciously
but because I became really busy
with the next project or expedition,
in addition to having a family and
running a business. To revisit those
more dramatic episodes in my life
was cathartic and it was easier for
me to reflect openly on them with the
benefit of the passage of time. I wanted
to be honest in my feelings and the
challenges I faced along the way and
to avoid going down the pathway of
some of the cliched mountaineering
literature that is der rigueur.
In a lifetime of mountaineering what
has been the highlight, what has
been the worst? The highlights for
me have been the people I have met
on this journey. Still today, I really look
forward to sharing adventures and
overcoming challenges with people. I
gained a lot of satisfaction from being
able to put successful expeditions
together with good outcomes that starts
with conceptualising how to make
an expedition successful, through to
standing on the summit. I was like a kid
in a playpen and could find climbers
(who were my clients) to fund amazing
adventures to places I’d not been
before, and to be operating at the top
of our game on an international stage.
The worst has been the toll of people
who died in the mountains which is
the sober truth of mountaineering, the
stakes are very high when things go
wrong.
To those who don’t venture to
such ‘heights’ how would you
describe the pull or the need to do
it? For me it has been about setting
challenges that are real and tangible
where one must be particularly honest
with one’s capabilities and not overreach
with your choice of objective,
commensurate with our actual
capabilities. To be able to operate
in such an unforgiving environment
and to be able to do it well is a true
indication that you have a realistic
measure of yourself and your strengths
and weaknesses and that is good
knowledge in itself. But most significant
in my mind, is the relationships you
develop with people in those times of
challenge and adversity that enable
you to form bonds at a deeper level
than you can ever do in a merely social
setting.
Anyone in particular you would like
to thank in relation to the book. I
could have not achieved nearly as
much as I have without the support
of my partner Suze and the staff at
Adventure Consultants who work
tirelessly behind the scenes to make
the expeditions succeed. I believe that
80% of the success of an expedition is
determined through the planning and
preparation phase of an expedition,
coupled with a high calibre of the
guides and Sherpas and other staff,
which cannot be over-emphasised in
my view. I also thank the climbers who
chose to join our expeditions because
of the trust they have in the approach
with which we operate.
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35

Guy Cotter just below the summit of Aoraki Mt
Cook in 1984, aged 22
Guy as a young heli-ski guide, 1985
A ladder-crossing over a crevasse in the
Western Cwm
"The highlights for me have been the people I have met on this journey. Still today, I
really look forward to sharing adventures and overcoming challenges with people."
furrows in their wake. Doug had a
broken zipper in his down pants,
however, so we were forced to walk.
He was moving extremely slowly and
was constantly flopping down into the
snow. Back at the ridge, I had looked
at the regulator on Doug’s oxygen,
which was displaying 10 or 12 bars on
the gauge; about half a bottle. I turned
his oxygen on. My own bottle showed
only 5 bars but I turned it on anyway to
lift my energy a bit. It lasted about 20
minutes, then I was back to a diet of
fresh air, even if it was somewhat thin.
‘Come on, Doug, keep moving,’ I
encouraged him, but still he fell over
at almost every step. ‘Get up, Doug,
get moving,’ I said. He would take a
step but then his foot would slide out
from under him and he’d be on his
butt again. Groan.
I watched the rest of the group
disappear into the gloom and out of
sight. Even Chantal and the Sherpas
were moving faster than us. I radioed
ahead. ‘Rob, at this rate we’ll be
caught out by nightfall. We need more
gas because when Doug runs out,
he’s gonna stop.’ Rob responded that
Sherpa Chhildim, who had been at
South Col all day as back-up, would
bring gas to help get us down. As we
descended from the base of the cloud,
I could see a lonely figure heading
out of camp and in our direction, but
he was so far away I thought it would
take hours before he reached us. At
least I knew that help was coming.
Then Ed called on the radio to say
he’d left his oxygen bottle for me on
the rocks, about halfway down from
the col, by the top of a fixed rope. I
was heartened by his gesture and it
gave me something to look forward to
while I endured this thankless task.
"If Doug stopped moving,
we’d be in a real quandary.
It wouldn’t be difficult for
me to make my own way
down to the camp but there
was no way I could carry
Doug by myself. If he did
collapse, I would have to
leave him. "
If Doug stopped moving, we’d be in a
real quandary. It wouldn’t be difficult
for me to make my own way down
to the camp but there was no way I
could carry Doug by myself. If he did
collapse, I would have to leave him.
And if that became the situation, I
would return the next morning with
oxygen and fluids in the hope that he
was still alive and able to move. I was
worried, and with darkness setting in
there wasn’t much of a window before
some hard decisions had to be made.
As long as he kept moving, I knew I
could get him down and I wasn’t going
to give up on him.
In the failing light we arrived at the top
of the first fixed rope. Attached to the
rope was Ed’s oxygen bottle. I eagerly
screwed it on to Doug’s regulator
and delivered the maximum flow of 4
LPM. I took the bottle Doug had been
using, and even though it was almost
finished, I put my oxygen mask back
on and breathed deeply while we lay
back in the snow, happy to be not
moving for a while.
The others were now out of sight in
the gully about 200 metres below us.
It felt lonely up here, just me and Doug
Guys chosen pages from his book...
“Chantal again collapsed on the ground.
We tried to ascertain her level of
consciousness by asking her to tell us
her name, where we were and so on, to
work out whether she was just tired or
suffering cerebral oedema. She managed
to answer the questions correctly, if not a
little slurred, and so I gave her my oxygen.
Even within the severity of our situation, I
found it ironic that she was using oxygen
for the first time in her life – but with it,
her demeanour picked up and she was
capable of walking a few steps. The wind
was increasing and cloud was building.
The rest of our team were down by the
Balcony, a couple of hundred metres
below us, when Chantal slumped on to
her back in the snow. She had given up. I
grabbed both her legs and began to drag
her down the slope. Rob provided a safety
rope from above while I made my way
backwards, one of her legs under each
arm, a little like backing a wheelbarrow.
Her down suit was shredded every time
we went over sharp rocks, but such was
the seriousness of the position we were in,
I gave up being too concerned. The priority
was to get her down, so we could all get
down.
We had descended the steepest section
of the face when Ed climbed back from
where he had the clients huddled. He
took Chantal from me. I was very relieved.
Getting myself down at this altitude
without gas was one thing; dragging an
inert person was a whole different level.
We pulled a few of the Sherpas in to
help as they were hanging back, looking
bewildered by it all. Now the slope angle
had eased, we stood Chantal upright so
she could walk down the ridge, a Sherpa
on each side holding her up. Reunited with
the group on the Balcony, it was time to
motivate the clients to get moving again.
They had been stationary a long time.
The sun dropped behind the ridge and,
with the breeze, it became very cold.
Cloud enveloped us and became a
whiteout, with only just enough visibility
through the murk to make our way along
the ridge. The South Col was now directly
below us, albeit 500 metres lower, even if
we couldn’t see it. Having been bereft of
oxygen for some time now, I had become
really cold. I was standing, stomping my
feet to try to gain some warmth. Chantal
was laid down in the snow at my feet and
I couldn’t tell if she was still conscious, or
even alive. She wasn’t moving and snow
was blowing over her. I suggested to Ed
that we short-rope the others down and
let the Sherpas handle Chantal. If she
was going to die, there was nothing to be
achieved by us helping at this stage. Our
immediate responsibility was the other
clients and they were deteriorating rapidly.
It was 5.00 p.m., and it would be dark
in two hours. Ed cut our rope into three
lengths. Before we departed, someone
handed me an oxygen bottle, which I put
in my pack. It felt pretty light, so it was
likely close to empty, but it would be handy
when we started moving again.
The Sherpas didn’t seem very keen to pick
up Chantal. The thought of having to carry
someone all the way down the mountain
was not an appealing prospect but finally
they dragged her up off the ground, at
which point she revived sufficiently to
stumble on.
I attached my rope to Doug’s harness then
began to descend the slope, stepping
over the edge to begin the 500 metres to
the South Col. Ed was with Abelardo and
Rob with Burt. They began the descent
after us but soon passed Doug and me.
An impressive half a metre of new snow
had been transported by the wind on to
the slope since we had climbed up here 12
hours ago. Travel was a real struggle as
we ploughed our way back down.
Being steeper at the top of the slope,
several of the group sat down and pushed
themselves down in a bum-slide, creating
Rob Hall turning Chantal Mauduit around at the South Summit in 1995, shortly before she collapsed
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//37

Dragging Chantal Mauduit down towards the balcony, 1995
"The rest of our team were down by the Balcony, a couple of hundred metres below us,
when Chantal slumped on to her back in the snow. She had given up."
sitting in the snow. It would be easy to
give up on this tiring descent and just
drift off into a soporific sleep, but there
was no way my deeper consciousness
would allow this.
A soft glow emanated from the
mountains as the light faded. I love
this time of day as much as I love
the dawn. The light is incredible and
you can see everything in crisp clear
detail. It was quite beautiful, but I
couldn’t bring myself to take a photo.
Even though the camera was down
the front of my jacket, it was iced up
and frozen and too much of an effort
for me to reach down to pull out.
I observed how I was behaving and
responding to the situation. On one
hand, this was very serious, my client
was close to complete exhaustion,
we were still at around 8300 metres
and at least two hours from the
safety of the camp. I had no support,
and our back-up Sherpa hadn’t
materialised. If Doug’s oxygen ran out
again, I’d have to leave him on the
mountain. On the other hand, I felt
quite comfortable, as though things
were not really that bad. The weather
was less concerning to me now that
the cloud had departed and we were
out of the wind, I had a part bottle of
oxygen with which to get Doug down
and I still felt pretty energetic.
My instructions to Doug were with
as few words as possible to save
energy. ‘Get your headlamp out. It’s
going dark.’
‘Battery’s dead,’ he croaked.
I resisted scolding him for this basic
error of not disconnecting the terminal
when he was putting it away this
morning – a mistake that can cost
you your life on any mountain. Even
if I’d have felt better getting some of
my frustration out, it wouldn’t make
any difference, so I dropped it. I dug
through the top pocket of my pack.
‘Here, take my spare one.’ I tossed it
over to him, which I regretted as he
was struggling to put it on, and so I
Guy's book is available in all good book stores
retrieved it, stretched out the elastic
band and placed it on his head.
We both felt better when we started
walking again. Doug moved more
quickly and was only falling over
every second step. The first fixed
rope extended just a few metres
over some steep rock steps then
we entered the gully to descend the
footsteps where we’d first fixed rope
this morning. I gave Doug support
from above with my short-rope while
he turned to face into the slope to
make his way down on all fours.
Despite the risk of him slipping off
and taking me with him, Doug did
well here, and we got down without
mishap. About an hour after dark,
we arrived on the glacier above
the col. Flat ground at last! We sat
and rested, as much for mental and
emotional solace as physical. I was
hurting. My stomach was very sore
because I hadn’t had any food or
drink to speak of all day and it felt like
I’d been drinking acid.
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38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

BENNY AND
THE WORLD OF
BIKEPACKING
Bikepacking is bursting onto the New Zealand
scene, and when we asked around who to talk to,
the name Benny Devcich came up time and again.
By his own admission, Benny is just a “regular bike
nut”. He’s been a lifelong bike rider and spent time
in Europe working for some of the world’s biggest
road teams before returning to NZ for a more
relaxed way of life.
Eventually, Benny’s Bike Shop was born,
combining an awesome character-building
specializing in old-fashioned bike service and
sales. The shop leans towards speciality bikes,
and builds custom-built bikes with a good oldfashioned
sense of pride and workmanship.
We caught up with him to get his insights into the
emergence of bikepacking.
What is bikepacking? Bikepacking, in simple terms,
is it just an overnight or multi-day adventure on your
bike? Much like its name’s sake Backpacking, but you
carry your stuff on a bike.
Bikepacking is essentially just touring on a bike.
But rather than bike racks (which can break easily
offroad) and large panniers (which will be overfilled
and heavy in the wrong places on the bike), we have
stripped the racks off, packed up the bike with light,
small, aerodynamic, and efficient bags. Weight is kept
down low in the main frame of the bike. The balance
of the lighter gear is carried out the rear, hanging off
the seat post, and in a roll, plus a bag hanging off the
handlebars. Bikepacking is more about mountain bike
tracks, gravel roads, and some far-out and bumpy
roads. There are also ‘bike tourists’ who have gear
hanging off racks and in panniers, which will turn the
bike into a wide, wind-grabbing and not very stable bike
at speed. They are not the same, and the two groups
do have common ground with a bike taking them
places, but that is where it stops.
How long have people been doing Bikepacking?
Has it evolved of late? Bikepacking has been around
for years. There are plenty of good photos from the turn
of last century, with similar kits, roll bags on the front of
bikes and small leather frame bags. The bike tourists
took over for a while, as the biking equipment was
evolving faster than the bike packing gear.
There are many bike packing-specific companies
out there to choose from. Tents have got smaller and
lighter, and the bikes have been changing; with Gravel
bikes being a ‘thing’, and some very light MTBs. There
are now some amazing rigs to look at for inspiration.
What to take on a bike packing trip? What to take
on a bike packing trip, I guess, depends on where
you’re riding (how far you will be from civilisation), how
long and your inclination to rough it (can you take the
bare minimum, or do you need a few luxuries?).
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//41

"I run a new style dynamo on all my bikepacking bikes, so I charge a battery
pack up during the day and use the lights of this unit at night or on wet days."
Full summer kit ready to pack
Again, it depends on whether you are
going for a quick overnighter, a week,
or a month. I tend to take very little (my
bike and gear weight will be 15kg). Tent
or tarp, food for dinner and breakfast,
water, and a single change of clothes.
Maybe a cooker, maybe some warm
stuff, but generally lean and light.
For longer trips in summer a couple of
riding kits, casual, some warm stuff, tent
etc. and a whole load of other gear.
There are plenty of gear lists out there.
Find a good list and make it your own.
I tend to have four I use. It’s on a Word
document, and I change it up depending
on the trip, print it out and pack it to that,
no more, no less.
With maximum gear listed, I will cull
and change the list to where and what
I am doing. Overnight summer is easy,
overnight winter, and the list gets bigger. A
week or two in winter is massive. Included
would be the spares for the bike, tools to
fix everything. Sleep kits for where and
what you are doing (cabin or motel, tent or
Bivy), there are multiple options.
What bikes are best suited, or does it
need to be specific – how do E-bikes
fit in? What bike to take is the ultimate
question. The best bike is the one you
have now. See if it works and go from
there. Mountain bikes or Gravel bikes
are the two main options. We are looking
for a few things, but big tires if it’s gravel
(40-50mm), and small tires if it’s an MTB
(1.95-2.25”). Preferably a hardtail MTB
works best; suspension on the front is
not needed but optional, you will have
it locked off most of the time. A fullsuspension
bike will work for small trips,
but you lose valuable storage space in
the mainframe, where the suspension is.
Plus, you cut down your rear bag options
with the weight placement and the wheel
moving up into its space. Plus, the loss
of power through the suspension if you
are using it. MTBs are more comfortable
but heavier. Gravel bikes are the weight
weenies choice, with carbon frames and
wheels at the top end, and good tires
for comfort, as you don’t get the added
suspension advantage of an MTB.
Plenty of easy gears, and either a 2x
system up front (for a closer range), or
with a wide range of gears on the rear
(up to a 52-rear sprocket) Believe me,
the easier the gears, the better the ride
after the fourth or fifth day. Modern 12sp
options have a wide range needed if you
have one chainring up front. There is
always talk of running out of gear on the
flat and downhills, but most of the time,
you will roll the hills (weight on the bike
and gravity are your friends here). Light
bikes are good. New or modern bikes
are better, well serviced, parts available
in most places, new purposeful tires and
preferably run tubeless for those long
gravel descents at speed.
I am not a fan of E-bikes in general, and
for bike packing I think they are asking
for trouble. So many things can go
wrong... Can the rider lift it over a fence
fully loaded? Is the electricity going to
last the distance? Is the battery big
enough?
On-bike setup in the middle of the Timber Trail
"With maximum gear listed, I will cull and change the list to where and what I am doing.
Overnight summer is easy, overnight winter, and the list gets bigger. "
There is a place for e-bikes on small
trips, but generally, I think they are out of
place on bigger trips. The riders should
be capable of riding the bike loaded with
no power just in case there is an issue.
With the shape and style of most of them,
there are bag and packing issues as well.
With too many cables to rip out in the
front end and long-drawn-out puncture
fixes, the disadvantages far outweigh
the benefits. I think bike touring is more
suited to e-bikes, at least the cafes on the
way may let to charge up a bit.
As with any ride, make sure you
pack spares and tools to fix common
mechanicals, such as flat tyres or chain
issues: I am a mechanic, so I can fix
almost everything on a trip. I take chain
links, a little bit of spare chain, spare
cables, spare bolts, cleat screws, patch
kits and even spokes for my wheels.
Also, a few relevant tools specific to my
bike of choice. We need the means to
fix a tire side wall blowing out (tire boot
kit, or dental floss and a needle), a few
punctures and a whole load of stuff
relevant to your bike. A derailleur hanger
is specific to your bike, small stores in
the middle of nowhere will not have this,
and it will save the day eventually.
Again, look at some gear lists for this,
and then take your bike into a store to
get the few things, that may be specific
to your bike; drivetrain, tires, wheels etc.
Carry just the right amount of stuff but
not too much. If you are travelling with
friends, these sorts of repair things and
tools can be carried between one other,
rather than everyone carrying the same
stuff, again assuming you are staying
together on the ride.
What do we need to know about
bikepacking bags, panniers, or a
rucksack? Again, like any backcountry
adventure, good gear pays off, buy once,
and buy right. Buy bags that fit your bike
specifically (we have a pile of sizes in
the good brands) and have the wheel
clearances you need. As a store, we tend
to carry high-end to middle-level gear for
sale. Buy the best you can within your
budget, the sport is addictive, so rather
than upgrading your gear on the second
ride, buy the best you can. You will
always get your money back in the used
market if the sport is not for you.
Find your local bike packing club (I help
run the Auckland one), beg, borrow,
and buy what you need for your first few
trips, and go from there. We never wear
anything on our back if we can help it.
Maybe a hydration pack for racing, but
normally it’s a good heat release when
it’s hot, a pack will stop that heat loss,
and then you will inevitably get a sore
Bush-bashed campsite on the way to the Forgotten Highway
back or ass with the extra weight on it.
Sleeping kit, I am guessing it is like
lightweight hiking – but keen to know
what you think. Yep, just like tramping.
Light and small volume stuff is the key.
I firmly believe that the smallest volume
is better than the lightest option. Light
tents, small sleeping bags and mats.
Again, buy once and buy right. Sleep
systems can be expensive, so they will
last years if you look after them. I just
retired a sleeping bag after 15 years of
use, it was small, rolled up, and warm, a
new one is half the size, twice the price,
but I saved not buying one for 10 years,
so was worth it in the end.
Basic toiletries and electronics
Yeah, it's always a classic one. I need
to carry moustache wax, a bit of teeth
and body cleaning, and some asthma
drugs. I even cut the toothbrush down to
size. No towel, a little bit of toilet paper
for those special situations, but again,
I am happy to wash in a river, happy to
not shower for a few days, if my teeth
are clean, my Mo is playing ball, and
deodorant can be applied in layers.
Electronics are that classic; the length of
the trip will dictate the situation. I run a
new style dynamo on all my bikepacking
bikes, so I charge a battery pack up
during the day and use the lights of this
unit at night or on wet days. For small
trips, no extra power is needed. But
for big back-country trips, I am not tied
to the grid. My battery pack charges
my phone, camera, camp head torch,
auxiliary bike lights and navigation unit,
and I have power to spare.
Without a dynamo, big trips need a 20K
battery pack for the few units that need
charging (again assuming you can get a
charge), and takes time to wait for this to
fill, and the weight gain of a big battery,
is a disadvantage.
A Dynamo setup, and the gear to utilise
that power, is not cheap, starting at $1k
plus a wheel build, but the convenience
for me has paid off. Again, I use a solarpowered
Garmin for navigation; this
needs charging once a week. If you use
your phone, you will use it up in half a
day, then you are not going to have any
means of navigation, not a great feeling.
42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//43

A rare motel stay to re-charge everything
I like good gadgets and a good camera,
phone cameras are getting better, but
still a few years off me leaving my good
camera at home.
What to wear - warm layers and
waterproofs? This is a tough one: bike
shorts for some, merino underwear or
a good pair of shorts for others. Small
trips usually are nothing fancy. But
once you get in the wild, merino gear
does not need to be washed too often.
It’s warm, even when it’s wet, and has
good air control when it’s warm. Don’t
underestimate the use of a quality riding
raincoat.
On my 10-day trip in the middle of
summer, it rained every day bar one,
and my jacket was used every day.
Pit zips and ventilation and a good
waterproof jacket is worth spending
money on. Again, a good warm hat
and some after-riding warm gear is
important. A good puffer jacket that
folds small is a bike packer standard
uniform around the fire. Good socks,
merino, again, and you can’t go wrong.
Again, this is very personal. If I am on
big, long trips, I tend to ride Lycra, as it's
comfortable and it dries well. It's good
to maintain warmth in all conditions
with knee and arm warmers and jersey
pockets for more food. For smaller trips,
I tend to go a lot more casual.
Cooking equipment It depends on
the trip and where I will be riding. I use
an old Swedish army Trungia liquid
burner, I like the ‘vintageness’ of it, and
I can buy fuel (meths, white spirits etc.)
almost anywhere. Bit more sustainable
for the planet than a gas cylinder unit.
I am a 'glutard', so small towns have
limited options for food, so I tend to cook
a lot more soups and stews in winter,
bacon and eggs anytime. I also love
coffee, so I have a cutdown Aero-press
(for lightness) for my caffeine addiction. I
can’t stand coffee bags or instant coffee
sorry. I always take a small water filter,
again keeping bugs out of my belly, and
saving time for cooking or hydration.
Do you have to be specific in terms
of packing for backpacking – are
there considerations for biking that
you would not have for hiking? ?
Nah, they pretty much do a crossover,
light, and small as trampers have to
carry it on their backs, so makes sense
for bikes as well. We have a few things
to consider for our bike, but much
as a tramper may have for his feet,
boots, and pack. Again, a good setup
kit makes all the difference. I do use
a pile of colour-coordinated dry bags
in my packing. They can be knelt on
and squashed small as almost vacuum
sealing them, cutting down the volume
in your bags. Also helps me find things
quick on the road, toiletries in the yellow
bag, electrics in the green, puffer in the
red bag, you get the idea.
For the bigger events, a Tracker is
essential for entry (dot watching is a
sport for those that are not riding), and
of course, a PLB would make sense if
you are travelling solo or into the wild
parts of NZ. I also carry a small flare
sometimes, and for sure a bit of safety
equipment like a safety blanket. I am
also fully trained in first aid, so not shy of
sewing and taping myself up if needed.
Another good investment for me has
been Kinesiology tape, which does
wonders for weird injuries, and a good
tape for broken bags, bodies, and bike
bits. Always carry a whiskey-filled hip
flask, for winter nights and beef jerky for
long chewy climbs. Protein shakes are
light and a good source of good food.
Some of the smaller dehydrated food
companies have better-tasting food, and
I always carry salt and chill flakes for
bland food. Homemade wax fire-starters
for wet wood at campsites. E-books on
my phone for reading. Bug repellent
for anywhere in NZ. Ear plugs for noisy
campsites. The list goes on.
After 8 days of rain in the middle of summer!
"I always carry salt and chill flakes for bland food. Homemade wax fire-starters for wet
wood at campsites. E-books on my phone for reading. Bug repellent for anywhere in NZ.
Ear plugs for noisy campsites. The list goes on."
Getting a ‘bike fit’ on your bike is
essential. We do many of these
throughout the year. Your bike and gear
may cost nearly $5-10k, and a fitting
may cost $150, but without a fitting
nothing really works correctly. Saddles
and bar setups, aero bar, personal
bike fittings are cheap in the scheme of
things. Small insurance to make sure
you are not going to blow out your knees
or hands. Hand issues are massive and
can linger for months. Saddle sores
(a nice name for painful boils) can be
effectively eliminated; these things can
stop you in your tracks if infected.
Saddles are very personal, we use a
digital system to measure your butt,
and a good store will let you loan
saddle if they have them, to find the
right one. You could be sitting on it for
8 hours a day for a month; you want
to get this right. Same with shorts, a
type of shammy cream (barrier cream,
antibacterial, etc., for your sitting areas),
is a must to sort before you leave. The
most annoying questions asked and
answered online in forums; ‘What’s the
best saddle out there’ and ‘What’s the
best shorts?’, these are pretty much
a minefield of disinformation from
generally those who have no idea what
they are talking about. The best saddle
is the right one for YOU, measured,
tested, and brought with the right
information from someone that knows.
Same with shorts and all other contact
points on the bike.
As with any emergent sports, there is a
lot of misinformation, copycat products
and a range of pitfalls and potholes
just waiting to trip you up. The answer
is simple, get good advice, we have
started with ‘part one’ of Bikepacking
with Benny – part two to follow in the
next issue
Benny Bike Shop
www.bennysbikeshop.co.nz
"The best saddle is the right one for YOU, measured, tested, and brought with the right
information from someone that knows."
44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//45

UNFORGETTABLE CYCLE TOURS
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Epic journeys take you North to South or East to West,
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be achievable but not without challenge, the trick to these
longer tours is getting used to time spent in the saddle.
The Marlborough Molesworth Epic and Canterbury Peaks
to Plains combine all the perks of cycle touring with a more
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less km’s per day, encourage you to slow down and explore
deep into the heart of the wonderful areas you are riding.
Escape Adventures aims to expand your cycling horizons
and believes exploring is better by bike. Ride classic touring
routes knowing that your accommodation and meals are
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24 Sawmill Road Staveley, 7771, New Zealand
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ikepackingessentials
aeroe
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Spider Rear Rack RRP $239.99
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8L Heavy Duty Dry Bag RRP $89.99
12L Heavy Duty Dry Bag RRP $109.99
Sea to Summit Telos TR2 Bikepack Tent
RRP $1299.99
The Telos Bikepacking two-person freestanding tent will radically
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Sea to Summit Spark II | Flame II
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RRP $749.99 Regular
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48//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
camelBak H.A.W.G Pro 20
RRP $299.99
Max storage meets max
comfort. Equipped with large
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Sea to Summit Evac Compression Dry
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Image by aeroe @aeroebikepack
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From $14.99 pair
Ideal for securing your
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Sea to Summit X – Series
X-Pot Kettle 1.3L RRP $69.99
X-Mug RRP $19.99
X-Set 1.1 X-Pot Kettle + 2 X-Mugs RRP $99.99
The X-Pot Kettle is a tiny addition to your
kit collapsing to 35mm. A 1.0L safe boiling
capacity is perfect for a hot cuppa. The X-Pot
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The X-Mug is a collapsible camp mug with a
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Available as individual pieces or in sets.
Osprey escapist on-bike family Coming early 2024
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The two-piece Escapist Saddle Bag Large comes with a
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to accommodate a range of frame sizes and shapes.
From RRP $149.99
The waterproof Escapist Wedge Bag is cleverly designed with
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With three secure mounting points that connect to the frame and
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Lezyne Pocket Drive HV
RRP $59.99
The Pocket Drive
HV is an incredibly
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ABUS Bordo 6000K 90cm
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•Recommended for securing good twowheelers
Sea to Summit Delta Cutlery 3Pc Set
RRP $14.99
The Delta Cutlery Set is a
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ABUS Powerdome MIPS Helmet
RRP $299.99
The PowerDome MIPS is very
lightweight and individually adjustable to
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Lezyne Lite Drive 1000XL/Strip Pro Pair
RRP $199.99
A powerful, multi-purpose front light with
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SOTO Windmaster
RRP $149.99
Boil 2 cups of water in
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Welditite sos travel kit
RRP $24.99
Clean, lube and repair your bike on the
go with this handy kit of travel essentials.
Includes:
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• Disc Brake Wipes (x2)
• Chain Wipes (x2)
• Self Seal Patches (x3)
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• Sand paper
Lezyne Rap II 20 Tubeless
RRP $79.99
Compact and versatile these multitools
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RRP $59.99
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camelBak Podium Chill .7L Bike Bottle
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Find a Stockist: southernapproach.co.nz
IG and FB @southernapproachnz

As an adventure travel agent I’m all for
travel, but I do believe in exploring your
own backyard and New Zealand has one of
the most amazing backyards anywhere.
In his book about the Old Ghost Road,
“Spirit Of the Stone” Marion Boatwright
explains it like this;
“It’s like this backcountry is
your seriously hot sister, but
because she’s your sister you
can’t see how gorgeous she
really is.”
EXPLORING OUR
BACKYARD
DON’T LEAVE HOME UNTIL YOU’VE
EXPLORED YOUR OWN BACKYARD!
By Phil Clark | Mad About Travel
Queen Charlotte Track - Image by Marlborough Sounds Adventure Co
The South Island of New Zealand has
some of the worlds best trails and over
the years I have had the pleasure of
experiencing many of them! The following
trails gives you a bit of a round trip taking
in The Marlborough Sounds, Nelson, West
coast, Arthurs Pass and Christchurch. This
trip can be done as a bunch of separate
trips or you could knock it out on a busy
couple of weeks in January or February. As
we live in the North island of New Zealand
it assumes you’re starting and ending in
Picton.
Queen Charlotte Track,
Marlborough Sounds
Starting with a scenic ferry out to historic
Ship Cove this track can be completed in 2
or 3 days with overnight stops at Furneaux
Lodge or Punga Cove and The Bay of
Many coves. All of these stops can provide
accommodation and meals. The track is a
challenging single track with some decent
hills and around 5 hours riding per day. My
best memory of this track was a sublime
single-track downhill for around 10km’s
into Anakiwa on the last day. It is possible
to get your overnight gear ferried to each
stop. I highly recommend this as it means
you can ride with a lightly laden bike!
50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51

Katie enjoys Bowenvale Traverse, Port Hills, Christchurch
Richmond Hills and Silvan Forest, Nelson
Nelson has an abundance of mountain biking. If you’re bike
packing the Maungatapu is an awesome way to get from Pelorus
bridge to Nelson although it is a bit of a grunt. We managed to
explore Silvan Forest, Richmond Hills and Kaiteriteri bike park.
The vertical at Silvan/Richmond is pretty big so I recommend an
Ebike or check out the shuttle service with Gravity shuttles. The
trails are awesome with a mix of flow and tech and a total lack of
brake bumps or corrugations. Fast and furious.
Kaiteriteri bike park has a couple of dozen trails above the
stunning beach of Kaiteriteri. The trails are a good mix of flow and
jump trails and best ridden when its dry (it’s a clay base). Mix up a
days riding with a swim at the beach followed by a pie and pastry
at the German bakery in Motueka.
You can find loads of accommodation in Nelson or Motueka but
if you want to stay in Kaiteriteri you need to book early as its
incredibly popular. You could also add in a day walk in the famous
Able Tasman National Park.
Old Ghost Road, Buller Gorge to Seddonville Westcoast
Conceived in 2007 by Marion Boatwright, Steve Stack and others,
the Old Ghost road is 85km’s of some of the most sublime single
track! The trail can take 2-3 days to mountain bike. We did it in just
2 days/1 night, staying at Ghost Lake hut. The first day was an
absolute climb fest which seemed to go on and on. Luckily the views
from the top of the trail made it all worth it as we spent the last hour
traversing flowing tracks across the tussock lined tops past Heavens
Door. The second day was simply awesome, starting with incredible
tech along the skyline ridge to the steps, then dropping into amazing
flow into the Stern valley before climbing through the earthquake
debris of the Boneyard. The day finished with a 17km ride along the
Mokihinui Gorge. It is rare that I get to the end of a 55km MTB day
and I actually don’t want it to end!
Craigieburn Trails, Castle Hill (Arthurs pass)
Located on the eastern side of Arthurs pass just an hour from
Christchurch these trails offer around 30kms of technical single
track. They link Castle Hill village, Cheeseman, Broken River and
Craigieburn ski fields. I reckon the best way to do these trails is
get yourself to the top of the Craigieburn ski road (Porters alpine
resort can provide a shuttle) and do The Edge track, followed by
Lyndon Saddle, Luge, Dracophyllum Flat finishing off with Hogs
back which takes you into Castle Hill village. This gives you an
epic downhill to start with followed by some fantastic cross country
single track in some of New Zealand’s best alpine scenery.
The views of the southern alps and tussock are uniquely New
Zealand. The trails are only open during summer so if its snowy
bring your skis rather than your bike. Finish with a legendary pie
at Springfield as you head towards Christchurch.
52//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
Phil and Noah knock off The Old Ghost Road
Christchurch Adventure Park and the Port hills, Christchurch
Home of New Zealand’s longest chairlift, The Christchurch
Adventure Park has over 40 MTB trails, a zipline and a café/pub.
I found a 5 uplift pass gave me around 4 hours riding which was
plenty for my old bones. The park has some superb jump/pump
trails like Locomotion and Loeless rider, and some truly excellent
tech such as Captain Torpedo, Gung ho and Shredzilla.
At the bottom of the park is the most excellent café which serves
local hazy’s and ciders and most excellent burgers and pizza. Get
to the park early as it gets very busy on summer weekends.
In the Port hills next to the adventure park is a huge network
of trails. One of my favourites is the Bowenvale traverse west,
joining the traverse east, onto the Mt Vernon trail and finishing off
with Witch Hill. This makes around a 10km there and back trail
which follows the ridge and gets amazing views of Christchurch,
the southern alps and Lyttleton harbour.
This trail can be extended right through to Godley head with
undulating flowing single track all the way, if you want a 30km
loop.
Once it’s time to head back to the ferry and the North Island,
Hamner Springs is a great place to stop. The mountain bike park
is small, but perfectly formed and the hot pools are awesome.
If you have time on the way back to Picton drop into the Middle
Hill MTB park near Kaikoura. They do shuttle runs and have a
dozen perfectly formed trails.
If you haven’t discovered the trails of South Island New Zealand
its time you went!
Approaching the "Big Slips" on The Old Ghost Road
Image by Greg Rosenke
Experts at adventure travel since 2000
Your mountain bike travel specialists, with over
20 years experience ensures you have a fantastic
trip, crafted by people who really care.
New Zealand owned and operated
"We live what we sell"
0800 623 872
info@madabouttravel.co.nz
madabouttravel.co.nz

THERESA BEILBY
A SMALL BUNDLE OF POWER
I am never one to be slow with an
apology. I do not consider myself
sexists, not in the least. But when I
walked into Sporting Life in Turangi, I
was greeted by a smiling, petite young
woman who said, ‘Just give me a
minute, and I’ll be able to help you’.
I puffed out my fisherman's interior
chest and thought well, young lady,
what do you think you can teach me? It
turned out, quite a lot!
Theresa Beilby is not your average,
well anything really. She is chatty,
incredibly knowledgeable, interesting
and has probably forgotten more about
trout fishing than I know.
We caught up with this petite
powerhouse. This is what she had to
say...
I am Theresa Beilby born and raised
in the Coromandel Peninsula, now
residing north of Turangi along the
shoreline of Lake Taupo. This chapter
of my life now revolves mostly around
all things fly fishing! I work in Sporting
Life, which is a fly-fishing store in
Turangi, and I am a professional flyfishing
guide operating within the
Central Plateau.
Claudio, is my amazing partner in life
and we are joined by our three-legged
dog named Stanley, who would regard
himself a pup despite being 14 years old.
To the disbelief of my community, I do
have many other hobbies! (Which all
compete with the fly fishing of course)
gardening, bird watching, free-diving,
mountain biking, and can I include fly
tying?
When describing what I am like, friends
are the ones best to shoot forth the
answers! They all agree I am a small
bundle of power while being eccentric,
fun, and willing to share knowledge/
skills with them and others. I enjoy
gathering my crew and sharing a
meal at the table, just seeing them all
chatting away, laughing while the fire
is going on a cold winter’s night – it’s
just magic!
I am passionate about nature and
believe in giving back, so maintaining
a trapline, removing weeds, and
cleaning up the environment are
important to me. Something my friends
have forgotten to mention is my love
for music and film, I am a bit snobby at
times depending on the artist or film,
but I enjoy most genres for both!
54//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55

If guiding provides Theresa with positive energy, it works. She is bubbly and enthusiastic; her love of the
region and fly fishing is paramount, and her knowledge of what to do and where to go is second to none.
If my life was a film, let’s rewind to the
summer of 2014, seeing me as a 23-yearold
going on my first solo trip to the South
Island and somehow, my parents cottoned
on to the fact I planned to hitch-hike and
camp out in a tent to be adventurous.
Overprotective as they were, they devised
a plan to intercept me and that they did!
I was en route to Picton via the
Interislander ferry and my parents
contacted Sherrie, a family friend living in
Murchison at the time who agreed to come
and collect me. Now, it had been some
years since I saw Sherrie, so naturally, I
was overjoyed for a catchup and agreed
to be taken back to Murchison to stay
with her and her mystery man behind
the steering wheel. It was very late at
night, so chit-chat was minimal; sitting in
the backseat, I’d nod off to sleep before
being abruptly woken each time my head
knocked into the window going around the
corners. Up at sunrise, I caught up with
Sherrie and was properly introduced to
Pete, the mystery man behind the steering
wheel, who turned out to be a fly-fishing
guide/fly tyer – pioneering in both fields.
My memory is quite hazy, but I was a
smoker at the time and would sneak off
down the road for a cheeky cigarette; soon
enough, Pete would join me there too, and
it would be our secret, which, in hindsight,
as a non-smoker, is ridiculous! There’s
no hiding the lingering scent of cigarette
smoke. Come on.
Towards the end of my time in the South,
Sherrie and Pete introduced me to the
Nelson Lakes National Park where we took
a ferry and disembarked at a picturesque
river mouth which was running slightly
murky due to previous rainfall, and this is
where I got a taste of fly fishing. I’ll never
forget the beech-lined mountains, the
calm lake and the river's call – seeing the
beautifully spotted brown trout and a bend
in the rod was the absolute cherry on top.
For reasons uncertain, I didn’t continue to
pursue fly fishing from here until…
Fast forward to 2017 a year in my life
where three pivotal events took place:
meeting my life partner Claudio, the loss
of both parents, picking up the fly rod and
running with it for good.
Sherrie and Pete had since moved from
Murchison of the South to Turangi of the
North, I attended their wedding and remained
with them the following days. There was talk
of a handsome fly-fishing Swiss fella by the
name of Claudio in town which I disregarded,
I didn’t want to know about it and asserted,
“I’m happily single, thanks.”
Pete and friends welcomed me along
for a day of fly fishing on the Tongariro,
I observed and took photos as I was
dabbling in fly fishing and receiving casting
tuition from Pete in that era, when I noticed
a tall man appear on the far bank (to
readers asking, yes, he was handsome).
Sparing detail, we met again at Sporting
Life when I was a customer back in those
days and I may have “accidentally” left
my keys in his car etc but we decided to
give a relationship a go! From there my
interest in fly fishing expanded to fly tying,
seeing Claudio and I fishing by day and fly
tying by night.
In the honeymoon period of our time
together, we received devastating news
that my mum was diagnosed with cancer,
and shortly after, it was dad too. They
swiftly passed away within a week of each
other in late 2017, and it shattered me
to the core, but despite all the conflicts,
Claudio remained by my side.
It was in the period of immense grief when
I resigned from full-time work, landed a
part-time role in Taupo Rod & Tackle and
dedicated all my free time to fly fishing and
tying, learning from other anglers and all
the books I could get my hands on.
It was on the river where I could start
processing the grief and learn to let go;
while fly fishing served as a distraction, it
was also healing to me and over time, I
had come to understand that many on the
water are out there for similar reasons.
And now, in 2023, approaching 2024, I
am still running forward with a fly rod in
hand, and I am excited for the future! I
enjoy assisting all individuals reach their fly
fishing goals, either in Sporting Life, getting
geared up for the first time, or guiding
folks on the water. The biggest kick I get is
seeing the person happy to be out there in
the environment I connect to, with a bend
in the rod and a loud holler or two, guiding
provides me with a lot of positive energy.
If guiding provides Theresa with positive
energy, it works. She is bubbly and
enthusiastic; her love of the region and fly
fishing is paramount, and her knowledge of
what to do and where to go is second to none.
Don’t be fooled by the cheeky smile and
petite stature.
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
To go guiding with Theresa email: terraflyfishing@gmail.com

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
NAT
WARBURTON
CAPTURING A CLIMBER'S CONNECTION
Nat Warburton is a 16-year-old adventure
sports photographer based in Wanaka.
Experienced in rock climbing as well as
skiing, Nat enjoys mountain biking and
surfing. He got into photography while on
a trip to Milford Sound, the expanse of
the granite peaks and the colour of native
bush sparked his interest. Since then, Nat
has fallen in love with the challenge of
taking photos that preserve elements that
make them magical, with an emphasis
on replicating the feeling of being there in
person. He is very motivated to capture
photos of places that have never been
documented, often meaning a lot of
planning and extra effort to get the shot.
Nat is known for his grit and his drive to
refine and improve, with a high level of
fitness he is always keen for the next
adventure.
A group of us had been climbing nonstop
for a few days and on the last day we
went to Wanaka's premiere crag, Al Cap.
This incredible face of rock is found on
the outskirts of the Wanaka area, at the
edge of the Matukituki River. Henry Booker
was super psyched on this one climb that
follows a big black streak up the wall,
making it very aesthetically pleasing. The
lines of white and black have a sense of
direction with the Henry trying hard. This
is another photo shot on a static line, this
wall is 35m tall so it was a challenge to get
the rope in a suitable position to allow for
this top-down photo.
AL CAP
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//59

LITTLE BABYLON
In the summer of 2022, there was
a group of strong teen climbers
crushing routes in Milford. The
crag pictured (Little Babylon) was
developed in 2007, for many of
us the crag is only a year or two
younger than ourselves. This led
to an opportunity to capture a new
generation of climbers pushing the
limits of NZ climbing. Throughout
the day it had been raining in the
standard Milford fashion, this flared
up the waterfalls and created a
rich gloomy atmosphere. I had
jumared up a rope, aligning myself
with the climber. Izzy (Climber) was
wearing these bright red pants that
popped out from the granite and
the forest below, drawing your eye
to the climber. The waterfalls in the
background give the image scale
and movement. This crag is very
remote with no cell reception giving
an added sense of isolation, I set
up a static line to allow for a better
viewpoint of the climber and fiord.
60//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//61

I have been looking for a photo that
captures the experience of climbing
at a crag called Little Babylon. Little
Babylon is a hard sport crag that's
situated in Milford Sound. On a
Friday afternoon Cesare Marchesin
started up a climb that followed
the outline of the cliff, I positioned
myself on a small ledge that led to
this incredible view of the forest and
surrounding mountains. What makes
this photo special is the access and
weather. To get to this area you
have to hike/climb up roots of native
trees for 400 vertical meters while
carrying a large bag. Milford is also
the wettest inhabited place on earth
so to get a sunny day is very special
let alone a day with no clouds. For
all this to come together while having
a strong climber on a route really
portrays the experience of the day.
LITTLE BABYLON
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//63

SLACKPACKING
QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUNDS
Walking with only your day packs makes for a really relaxing and easy hike
I lay my gear out on the bed and became overwhelmed by the
growing pile of “essentials” I needed. One adventure, three
activities; hiking, kayaking and biking, requires a lot of different
gear and the idea of carrying it for 5 days was a little off-putting.
The infamous Furneaux Lodge provided us accommodation for the first night
Enjoying a rest day at Punga Lodge
However, this was an adventure with a difference, we were
going to be 'slackpacking' our way through Marlborough
Sounds so all we needed was a daypack.
The Queen Charlotte Track is the perfect place for
slackpacking due to the watertaxi system that will drop off
and pick up either yourself or your bags at various places
along the way. The track is littered with places to stay with
great restaurants that will even prepare your lunches for the
following day's hike as needed.
The track starts at Ships Cove and finishes 71km later in
Anakiwa. Weaving through native bush along the ridgeline
between Queen Charlotte Sound and Kenepuru Sounds.
There are plenty of options but here’s a tried and tested
itinerary…We had our bags transported each leg via the water
taxi system. All you had to do was have them clearly marked
and left at the jetty before setting off for the day.
Day One: Catch the water taxi to Ships Cove and hike to
Furneaux Lodge (approx 15km).
Overnight at Furneaux Lodge
Day Two: Hike to Punga Lodge (11km)
(Or add in a rest day to go paddleboarding/kayaking and catch
the water taxi across the Sounds to Punga Lodge)
Overnight at Punga Lodge
Day Three: Bike from Punga Cove to Portage Bay (23.5km)
If biking you have the option to stay on the Queen Charlotte
Track along the exposed ridgeline or ride the easier route
along the scenic Kenepuru Road. (We opted for option 2).
Overnight at Portage Bay
All-inclusive
package from
$440 per person
(twin share)
Package includes:
• Track transfers
• Coffee and cake on arrival at
On the Track Lodge
• 2 nights in comfortable chalet
accommodation*
• All meals (Day 1 dinner & dessert,
Day 2 breakfast, packed lunch & dinner
& dessert, Day 3 breakfast & packed
lunch). Vegetarian/vegan/gluten free
meals available)
• Use of On the Track Lodge kayaks
and all other amenities, including a
hot-tub.
*Upgrade to stay in the newly
renovated vintage train carriages
(with private bathroom).
Discover the hidden wonders of the Nydia Track, it is not as well known or
busy as the Queen Charlotte Track but just as beautiful.
The track takes you through coastal forest (rimu, nikau and beech) with
superb views and is suitable for people with a reasonable level of fitness,
boots are recommended and some of the streams are not bridged.
• Start from Havelock and take a shuttle to historic Kaiuma Bay, (4-5 hours).
• Dine then stay at On the Track Lodge in a comfortable chalet
or train carriage accommodation.
• Spend the next day relaxing at the lodge, kayaking or taking some shorter walks.
• The next day complete the rest of the tramp (carrying your freshly
prepared packed lunch) to Duncan Bay in time for another shuttle ride back to Havelock.
On The Track Lodge
Nydia Track, Marlborough Sounds
+643 579 8411 | stay@onthetracklodge.nz
www.onthetracklodge.nz
Day Four: Kayak back to Picton
Kayaks can be delivered and waiting for you at Portage Bay
for the paddle back to Picton. Allow four hours to explore the
many bays and coves along the way.
Biking took us alongside Kenepuru Sounds
You can organising a trip like this yourself if you have the time
and inclination, or for help I can thoroughly recommend the
team at: www.wildernessguidesnz.com

M
MASTERCLASS
WITH TED GRAMBEAU
Photographer: Ted Grambeau
Athlete: Rodrigo Reinoso
Location: Teahupo'o, French Polynesia
© Ted Grambeau/ Red Bull Illume
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//67

Cotopaxi’s Kapai 3L Hip Pack $89.99
Cotopaxi’s Kapai 3L Hip Pack is ready to
keep all your essentials close at hand. Part
of the Del Día collection, the Kapai uses
repurposed material scraps, making each hip
pack one of a kind.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
"ALL
I WANT
FOR
XMAS..."
Cotopaxi’s tech bucket hat $89.99
Whatever you’re doing, do it with
the coverage and style of this comfy,
performance bucket hat. Cotopaxi’s
Tech Bucket Hat is made from 100%
recycled nylon.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
-
That’s It SPF 30+ Manuka Oil Lip Balm
You might be hardcore but your lips are not,
so show them some love with That’s It SPF
30+ Mānuka Oil Lip Balm. Made with shea
butter, beeswax, and 100% NZ Mānuka
oil, it's designed to use on the go and slip
comfortably back into your pocket while you
get on with your adventure.
WWW.THATSIT.NZ
spy rebar From $209.95
Durable, and certified to keep you safe no matter the
conditions. With a Z87.2+ ANSI rating, they are more a
sheer force of nature than shades. Tough, lightweight,
and built for those that demand a lot from their gear. The
SPY Rebar delivers the clarity and colossal individuality
we all seek.
As always with our patented HAPPY LENS technology.
WWW.SPYOPTIC.CO.NZ
red 11.3 Sport MSL Inflatable Paddle Board Package $2,549.95
A high-spec inflatable board designed for speed and
performance and is designed for paddlers looking to
progress their paddling.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT.CO.NZ
red 10.6 Ride MSL Inflatable Paddle Board $2,199.95
A versatile, all-round board with excellent durability,
superior stability, and is designed to glide over the
water in all conditions. Suitable for all types of paddlers.
WWW.RED.EQUIPMENT.CO.NZ
Spinlock’s Deckvest Nemo+
Spinlock’s new Deckvest
Nemo+ is a combination
lifejacket and deck harness
designed specifically to keep
younger crew members safe
and comfortable on the water.
WWW.LUSTY-BLUNDELL.CO.NZ.
spy Monolith Speed From $259.95
High tech, modern style, ultimate speed:
The sunglass trifecta. Introducing a built-foradventure
product designed for the everyday
sports enthusiast. With some energetic
qualities these shades were built for ripping,
riding, running, or relaxing.
As always with our patented HAPPY LENS
technology.
WWW.SPYOPTIC.CO.NZ
68//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//69

usiness
INSPIRE & ENABLE ADVENTURE
Red Paddle Co have been building boards
for over 15 years and their design team has
pinned down the 'sweet spot' for dimensions
and thickness for all of their boards, offering
performance-based construction that feels
grounded, stable, and safe, so standing up
is no longer a far off goal but something that
is perfectly achievable for everyone. You’ll
feel more stable, and more confident to travel
further, faster. The aim is simple; to help
customers get out there and do more of what
they love, for longer.
Red Paddle Co’s mission is to inspire
and enable adventure through innovative,
environmentally responsible products that
never compromise on performance, safety,
and reliability. Red carries out extensive due
diligence on all suppliers to ensure quality and
ethics go hand in hand.
The Red range includes inflatable paddleboards
for travel, adventure, touring, surfing, white
water, and family fun. It’s about making our
lakes, rivers, and beaches more accessible to
everyone. Boards are easy to transport and
made to last. They are the perfect companions
for paddlers who want to update their adventure
to explore more. Red never compromises on
design which means it must be the best.
Red Paddle Co have a customer experience
team dedicated to providing the best advice,
recommendations, and solutions to help keep
your gear in tip-top condition.
Red create world leading inflatable
paddleboards and premium outdoor kit sold
in over 60 countries worldwide. Their design
approach ensures that the boards are built to
last and on average, take 72 hours to build each
and every board. Award winning and patented
technology offers unrivalled performance and
stiffness, which is backed by their worldwide
5-year warranty when registered online.
“You haven’t tried paddleboarding until you
have tried a Red”
Available throughout NZ from certified Red
Paddle Co retailers.
www.red.equipment/pages/find-a-shop
Waterproof Backpack 30L $239.95
Whether you're cycling, hiking
or commuting to the office,
the Red Original Waterproof
Backpack is the perfect
solution for keeping everything
dry and close to hand.
WWW.RED-EQUIPMENT.CO.NZ
Red Paddle Co Sport Range $2,199.95 - $2,749.95
For paddlers who are looking for speed
and performance, the Sport Inflatable
SUP Range offers a step up from
the Ride family. Imagine how excited
you’ll feel unrolling your new board in
anticipation of enjoying the open water.
WWW.RED-EQUIPMENT.CO.NZ
Red Paddle Co Ride Range $1,999.95 - $2,299.95
If you’re looking for a versatile board that
will perform in all conditions, then look
no further than the Ride Inflatable Range
from Red Paddle Co. A popular inflatable
SUP for all the family, these boards are
designed for all-round use – whether you
enjoy the thrill of paddling in the surf, or
the tranquillity of calm lakes.
WWW.RED-EQUIPMENT.CO.NZ
Red Pro Change Robe Evo $349.95
Uniquely breathable with the
softest lining, moisture wicking,
and super warm yet lightweight
providing maximum warmth
whilst outdoors, this premium
robe ensures you will stay dry
and warm.
WWW.RED-EQUIPMENT.CO.NZ
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

CamelBak Chute Mag Insulated Stainless 1L
Bottle $79.99
The cap features an easy carry
handle and a magnetic top that
stows securely out of the way when
open and is leak-proof when closed.
Universal cap is compatible with
Eddy® + and Hot Cap vessels.
Double-wall vacuum insulation keeps
drinks cold for 24 hours or hot for 6.
Strong and durable stainless steel with
powder coat finish, easy to clean. Free
of BPA, BPS, and BPF.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
WoolAid Hyperfine Merino Wool Plasters
From $6.69
The world’s first wool plasters.
Crafted from hyperfine merino
wool, this skin and eco friendly
plasters are naturally highperforming,
flexible, and soft
to touch, providing a highperformance
solution to everyday
wound prevention and recovery.
WWW.WOOLAID.COM
vango F10 Helium UL2 Tent $699.99
Hybrid tunnel design provides a compact, reliable
shelter. Easy to pitch, extremely lightweight with
a small pack size. Great for solo adventures or
with a second person sleeping top to toe. Ideal
for bike packing. 1.42kg
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Weka Hiker 2 Hiker Tent $349.90
Kiwi Camping's most popular hiker tent with
double-sided entry, sturdy vestibules, and a
user-friendly design. With a fly that handles
rain and snow, the Weka 2 is perfect for hiking
adventures.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Mamaku Camper +5°C
Sleeping Bag $94.99
A tapered sleeping bag ideal
for warm temperatures with a
silvertherm lining that enhances
heat retention. The Mamaku
features a resilient ripstop shell,
inner pocket, hanging tabs,
adjustable hood and draft collar,
and YKK two-way zip.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Helinox Chair Zero Highback $299.99
With a taller back for added support
and comfort, the Chair Zero High-back
has the same DNA as Chair Zero, an
ultralight, compact, go-anywhere chair.
Lightweight packability makes this
chair comfortable to carry and a new
essential for any adventure. Capacity
120kg, 5 Year warranty
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
exped Versa 2R Sleeping Mat $179.99
Versatile mat with synthetic insulation for
3-season conditions. 60g/m2 insulation,
integrated pump, recycled 75D polyester fabric
and 5cm-thick chambers with fatter chambers
at the sides to reduce the chance of rolling off.
Certified carbon neutral by myclimate. 183cm x
52cm x 5cm. 605g
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
vango Tay 400 Tent $229.99
4-person dome-style tent
featuring a Gothic arch pole for
added strength and stability in
adverse conditions as well as
extra headroom, a lights-out
bedroom, flat groundsheet that
is easy to clean, clear windows
that allow light into the vestibule/
storage area. It is possible to
pitch the inner tent separately.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
HIKE HIGHER
CamelBak Horizon Insulated Stainless Steel
Camp Mug $49.99
The strong and durable 12 oz Camp
Mug is constructed in double-walled,
vacuum-insulated stainless steel with
a powder coat finish, keeping it looking
good on the outside and piping hot on
the inside.
The tri-mode tumbler lid slides open for
flow control and is spill-resistant. A nonslip
silicone pad on the base provides
a soft landing on surfaces to avoid
scratches and spills. Dishwasher safe
and free of BPA, BPS, and BPF.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot
Set $149.00
For quick boiling when you need
it! A super lightweight aluminium
stove with quick boil technology,
piezo ignition and accessories
all packaged in a handy mesh
carry bag.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Rover King Single 10CM Self-
Inflating Mat $249.00
The Rover mat has a 10cm thick mat
that inflates easily with a 3-way valve.
Ideal for camping, the king single is
2000mm long and 760mm wide with an
R-value of 13.3.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Matai Camper +5°C Sleeping Bag
$89.99
A rectangular sleeping bag ideal
for warm temperatures. Featuring a
generous width and height, it has a
resilient ripstop shell, inner pocket,
hanging tabs, adjustable hood, draft
collar, and YKK two-way zips.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
High protein meat
High calories
High on flavour
Elite Adventure Nutrition
NEW
72//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

hydro flask $89.99-$114.99
Hydro Flask’s two new colours are the
perfect summer hues. Shop Oat & Grapefruit
in three different bottle sizes!
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ
BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:
Back Country Cuisine Elite has been formulated to meet the
energy requirement of meat eating elite outdoors people,
who want to push themselves and need meals delivering
700 to 800+ Cal/kcals of energy. The bulk of the calories
are coming from fats and protein with the remainder coming
from carbohydrates. Take your adventure nutrition to the next
level with the Back Country Cuisine Elite range. For more
information or to find your nearest stockist visit:
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Biryani Lamb $19.99
This Elite high calorie meal
is a filling classic Indian
dish with aromatic rice,
freeze-dried lamb, green
peppers and corn.
KEA SURVIVAL KIT GEAR PACKS
$40.00- $50.00
KEA Gear Packs are built for
purpose and contain all the
essential gear required to pack
or refill your outdoor survival kit.
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM
Curried Beef $19.99
This Elite high calorie
meal is a hearty meal of
freeze-dried quinoa and
beef mince, with curry
notes and just the right
amount of vegetables.
Weldtite Ultimate Bike Cleaning Kit $119.99
All you need to clean your bike in a 12-litre
bucket containing:
•TF2 Ultimate Spray with Teflon surface
protector (400ml)
•All-weather Lube with Teflon surface protector
(100ml)
•Bike Cleaner (1ltr)
•Citrus Degreaser Spray (400ml)
•Bike Cleaning Brush Set (Sprocket, Tapered
and Cone Brushes)
•Sponge
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Hydro Flask’s 20L Carry Out Soft coolers
$249.99
Hydro Flask’s 20L Carry Out Soft Coolers
are the perfect compact insulated cooler to
bring a little or a lot along for the day. The
top zips wide open for easy access and
quick cleaning. Keeps items fresh for up to
24 hours and holds 38 cans without ice.
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ
Oats and Apple $16.99
This Elite high calorie
breakfast has creamy
oats with freeze-dried
apple, raisins, almonds
and a dash of cinnamon.
Great for breakfast or
dessert.
Chicken Korma $19.99
This Elite high calorie
Chicken Korma has an
authentic spicy rice and
freeze-dried chicken
with vegetables, almond
flakes and a yoghurt
sauce to mix.
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE
Inspired by the innovative,
everchanging drinks scene,
we instinctively knew how a
drop of Jägermeister and a
backbeat of cold brew coffee
could transform any night. The
enviable result? A brand-new
mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD
BREW COFFEE. A unique
fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56
botanicals and intense cold brew
coffee.
WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ
Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch
Born from Adventure: Shackleton
Blended Malt Scotch is based on
the spirit supplied to the 1907 British
Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted
using a selection of the finest Highland
Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available
at various Liquor Retailers .
WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ
KEA kit $80.00 (GO) - $120.00 (XL)
KEA KIT GO & XL are Outdoor Survival
Systems to help pack essential safety gear.
GO for on the move and the XL for vehicle/
basecamp
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM
74//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

ear cottage Possum Merino Wool Ombre Throw $195.00
A unique and luxurious blend of NZ possum
fur and pure NZ merino lambswool. A beautiful
luxurious Multi Tone Throw – so versatile, so
light and ever so warm.
35% Possum Fur, 55% Merino Lambswool,
10% Mulberry Silk.
Measurements approx: 1.24m x 1.71m
WWW.BEARCOTTAGE.CO.NZ
Osprey dayliTe $99.99
Lightweight, simple, durable and comfortable, the
Daylite® is well-loved for a reason. Reach for it
when running everyday errands, going for a quick
hike or heading out of town. Constructed from
high-quality bluesign®-approved recycled fabrics,
GRS-certified recycled nylon and a PFC-free
DWR coating. Versatile with the ability to attach to
a variety of other Osprey bags, the Daylite® can
handle years of everyday wear and tear.
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
lowe alpine Sirac 50L Trekking Pack $329.95
Featuring an advanced, lightweight
back system that flexes as you move,
The Sirac pack is ideal for carrying
heavy loads. Available in a women
version also.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
rab Veil Lightweight Running Vest $299.95 - $399.95
Lightweight and ventilated, this running
vest offers plenty of hydration options along
with multiple handy pockets for challenging
runs. Available in 2L and 6L.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
GLERUPS The Boot Honey Rubber $199.00
Made from 100% high-quality wool that provides
exceptional comfort & warmth. glerups boots are
soft and cosy, allowing you to rejuvenate your
tired feet after a long day.
glerups boots provide comfort, durability, grip,
and breathability, making them an excellent
choice for your outdoor adventures.
Go with natural this season, go with glerups.
WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ
Patagonia Guidewater Sling 15L $459.99
Lightweight, Fully waterproof submersible
IPX-7 rated bag for keeping contents
safe, even in full immersion. Body and
webbing are sturdy 100% recycled nylon,
and back panel and lining are 100%
recycled polyester. Made in a Fair Trade
Certified factory. Can be worn over the
left or right shoulder.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Medium Duffle Bag 60L
$139.00
Rugged, durable and designed
to withstand the toughest
adventures. The new Kiwi
Camping duffle bag comes with
detachable padded backstraps
convert the duffle into an
expansive backpack.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Patagonia Long-Sleeved Sun Stretch Shirt $209.99
Patagonia's most technical long-sleeved button-up is
designed for hot and humid conditions. Made from a
stretchy, quick-drying, ultralight recycled nylon/T400®
polyester blend, it features vertical zippered chest
pockets that can accommodate a passport or fly box.
Made in a Fair Trade Certified factory.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
black diamond t-shirts $59.99
For the climbers in the family.
Variety of styles and designs
Men’s and women’s organic cotton
T-shirts with 4% elastane
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
Outdoor Research Deviator Hoody
$279.90
Extremely breathable, strategically insulated jacket that
lets excess heat out when moving and holding heat in
when at rest making it ideal for high-aerobic adventures
in cool weather. A softshell fabric on the front,
shoulders, sleeves and hood adds weather resistance
and a breathable grid fleece on the back, side panels
and underarms provides a full range of motion.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $429.90
The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede
leather and stretch fabric upper with a
protective rubber rand for protection
against rock, scree and debris. The
GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining
provides optimal waterproofing and
breathability. The EVA midsole provides
superior cushioning and excellent comfort
for a technical shoe. Climbing Lacing right
to the toe allows for a more precise fit,
while the Vibram® Alpine Hiking outsole
covers a wide spectrum of mountain
terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 470 g
(W) 370 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA PEDROC POWERTEX $399.90
Designed as a lightweight, versatile, yet
protective technical shoe with an ecofriendly
Powertex® membrane for waterproof
protection, and good breathability. The strong
ripstop mesh upper and TPU rand offer high
abrasion resistance. The EVA midsole delivers
optimal rebound, and the Pomoca Speed
Hiker Pro outsole works well on mud, grass
and rock.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 345 g
(W) 260 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA WILDFIRE CANVAS $299.90
The breathable recycled cotton and hemp
canvas upper is protected by a full 360°
TPU rand. Our 3F system with nylon-coated
Kevlar® cables provides additional support
and greater stability at the heel, while ensuring
a precise fit. The dual density eco Ortholite®
footbed promotes superior cushioning, and the
Pomoca outsole offers secure grip during light
hiking activities.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 305 g (
W) 256 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA WILDFIRE 2 $349.90
Engineered for technical terrain, the Wildfire
2 is a lightweight, agile and precise tech
approach shoe with a breathable recycled
synthetic mesh upper, and a 360° protective
rand. The climbing lacing allows for fine
adjustment in the toe-area, and a lateral net
system with Kevlar® cables allows for better
overall performance and sensitivity. The
POMOCA® outsole is designed for precision
and sensitivity in mixed mountain terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight: (M) 355 g
(W) 305 g (Pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $479.90
The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede
leather and stretch fabric upper with a
protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-
TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal
waterproofing and breathability, and the
customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF)
with interchangeable layers allows you to
adapt it to the unique shape of your foot;
Climbing Lacing right to the toe allows for
a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Hike
Approach outsole covers a wide spectrum
of mountain terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g
(W) 482 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
Anatom Q2 Trail-Lite Hiking Boots $349.99
Made with a waterproof Nubuck leather
that combines with a waterproof,
breathable membrane system to keep
your feet comfy and a Vibram® XS
Trek outsole and cushioned midsole
for excellent traction, durability,
stability and shock absorption over
unpredictable terrain.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

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FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years.
We are dedicating these pages to our client’s online stores; some
you will be able to buy from, some you will be able drool over. Buy,
compare, research and prepare, these online stores are a great way to
feed your adventure addiction.
Waterfront accommodation on Nydia Track, Marlborough, NZ
www.onthetracklodge.nz
Fully Supported Cycle Tours to: New Zealand, Japan, Cambodia,
Kenya & Tanzania, Kyrgyzstan, Namibia, Colombia
www.escapeadventuresnz.com
That’s It make epic skin
care for the naturally
adventurous.
www.thatsit.co.nz
Building versatile and reliable gear so you
can adventure with purpose.
www.keaoutdoors.com
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Temerature. Taste. Transport.
Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.
www.hydroflask.co.nz
Top NZ made health supplements delivered straight
to your door, with same day dispatch.
www.supps.nz
This small, friendly family-run company is based in Lake
Tekapo, New Zealand, specializing in guided outdoor
adventures throughout New Zealand's Southern Alps.
www.alpinerecreation.com
The place to go for all the gear you need whether you're skiing,
snowboarding, hiking, biking or just exploring.
www.thealpinecentre.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
www.glerups.co.nz
glerups shoes, slippers
and boots are known for
their exceptional comfort
and unique design.
Over the years we have
perfected the wool mix
by blending Gotland
wool with quality wool
from New Zealand
farmers.
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Your adventure travel specialists, with over 20 years
experience! They live what they sell.
www.madabouttravel.co.nz
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
Marine and industrial supply story
www.lusty-blundell.co.nz
Bobo Products, a leading importer and distributor of snow
and outdoor products in New Zealand.
www.bobo.co.nz
NZ world class climbing centre.
Your climbing experience is at
the heart of what they do. They
provide trained and competent
professionals that are psyched
on climbing and passionate
about supporting others.
www.northenrocks.co.nz
Purveying the finest singleorigin
roasted Espresso
and Filter coffee in NZ since
2013 for you to enjoy at
home or work.
www.redrabbitcoffee.co.nz
10% discount on coffee use
ADV10%

M
MASTERCLASS
WITH ALVARO HERRERO LÓPEZ-BELTRÁN
Photographer: Alvaro Herrero López-Beltrán
Athlete: Skanda Coffield-Feith
Location: Tulum, Mexico
© Alvaro Herrero López-Beltrán/ Red Bull Illume

NEW
CALEDONIA
A SLEEPING GIANT OF
ADVENTURE SPORTS
Words and Images by Leon Butler
n e w c a l e d o n i a
c a l e d o n i a
New Caledonia is a place that conjures
up images of turquoise seas, golden
sandy beaches and cocktails by the
pool. Whilst it definitely is all these
things, underneath the tranquil island
exterior beats the heart of a leg
pumping, sweat inducing, single track
munching beast. A place where you can
immerse yourself in an untamed, wild
environment.
Upon arriving in ‘New Cally’ there’s a
feeling of deja vu, a familiarity that you
can’t explain. Maybe its ’s the balmy
weather or the welcoming people, but
there’s something about the place that
exudes warmth on all levels.
Having not known too much about the
Island I had, foolishly, presumed it was
a place of relaxation and pampering.
What I wasn’t expecting, however, was
to see such imposing, raw mountains
snaking their way up the island. Heaving
straight up from the coastline, these
lush forest covered behemoths give way
to epic ridgelines and impressive views
of the island's infamous lagoon, which
happens to be the second largest reef
just behind the Great Barrier.
The 3 hour flight from Auckland is a
breeze for mountain bikers thanks to the
free bike carry with Aircalin and the road
network on arrival is simple to navigate
with great infrastructure. A two hour
drive up the west coast from the city
of Noumea is the Domaine de Deva, a
region of stunning beaches, meandering
roads and the home of the Megarando, a
two day mountain bike epic that attracts
over 1200 competitors, 100 volunteers
and takes 6 superhuman organisers 9
months to prepare.
There are a few things that immediately
strike you about this event. One being
the uniqueness of a bike race that starts
and finishes right next to a Unesco
protected reef, and the second is the
way they have brought all levels of riders together to
share their passion for bikes whilst still being able to
offer high level competition. Day one kicks off with two
70km races followed by two 35km races followed by
younger age groups. What this means is that amateur
cyclists can test their steel against not only themselves
but also top level cyclists.
Day two is a similar story, but for the e-bike inclined
adventurer. Starting at sea level can easily catch you
off guard for how steep and vast the trail network is
here, a short pedal along a flat is sharply met with an
uphill slog into the depths of the Domaine de Deva
mountains, a place that is surprisingly both hostile and
beautiful in equal measures and will leave the hardiest
of mountain bikers frothing at the mouth.
Relentless uphill trails are met by cinematic ridgeline
flow descents overlooking the turquoise sea, mother
nature providing some much needed motivation to see
this sucker through to the finish line.
84//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//85

This year marked the 20th Megarando,
and what they have created is one of the
most inclusive events I’ve experienced. The
finish line is in the centre of the exhibition
village where you are met with a wave of
cheers and support from other competitors
and their families who are soaking in
the atmosphere with a well-earned beer
or three. It’s a heart-warming sight to
see so many people have an unbridled
obsession for two wheels, and for the
event to give such an encouraging platform
for youngsters to nurture their passion
only bodes well for the future of the New
Caledonian bike scene.
The event is run like a well-oiled engine, not
the flashy sports car kind but more of a plucky
Toyota Land cruiser. It’s rough and rugged but
with a charm and character that leaves you
encouraged and inspired for next year.
Another thing I picked up on is that New
Caledonia is a place of contrasts, and
not just when it comes to the landscape.
One moment you are in a deep hole of
type 2 fun, questioning why you do this to
yourself and the next you can be sipping
cocktails on the beach and indulging in the
incredible fusion cuisine on offer.
Those who want to embrace the latter
option can do so a few minutes down
the road from the Megarando village at
the magical Sheraton New Caledonia
Deva Spa & Golf Resort where many a
competitor can be found nursing a carb
induced hangover after the event party.
Situated right on the beach, the Sheraton
has been built using traditional Kanak
Blue River Park is an area of outstanding beauty and a place where the adventurous will thrive.
architecture and materials in a tasteful nod
to the native people.
The Domaine de Deva is a geographical
wonder, as is the rest of New Caledonia.
The event organisers have built an
impressive network of bike trails whilst
preserving the natural aesthetic of the area
allowing it to hold on to its world beauty
accolades. The ability to use two wheels
to explore this region under your own
power, somehow adds to its magic.
The people also have a big part to play
in that magic. I met some wonderfully
eccentric characters where French sass
had combined with easy-going Island life
to create the most welcoming people full of
infectious joie de vivre.
For myself, a lasting memory of the event
is of a local who insisted I call him Roger.
He was glued to his quadbike and spent
the whole weekend welcoming every
single person, high-fiving every kid,
celebrating with those who crossed the
finish line, showing me the prime photo
locations and seemed to be a self-adopted
‘hype-man’ for the event. A larger than life
character who made everyone feel special.
The Domaine de Deva isn’t the only
mountain bike Mecca on the Island.
Having driven back down south to Noumea
I headed a further hour out of the city to
the Blue River Park and again was met
by a place that was a huge contrast from
where I had been up north. The Blue River
Park is an area of outstanding beauty
and a place where the adventurous will
thrive. 9000 hectares of rainforest, lagoon,
mountains and bright red Iron trails can
be explored by foot or bike and offer up a
welcoming rest after a hectic few days at
the Megarando.
New Caledonia is considered somewhat
of an ecological treasure, and none more
so than in the Great South. My guide,
Axelle who owns tour guide company
‘Toutazimut’, was an endless source of
fascinating information about the region's
flora and fauna. The park is a geologist’s
paradise and riding bikes on the iron rich
ground offers a new kind of experience
that only enhances the island's growing
reputation as a MTB destination.
After a busy day exploring Noumea and
the biking trails of the Great South, a
great spot to recharge the batteries is Le
Méridien Noumea Resort & Spa. Located
on Anse Vata Bay the resort is just ten
minutes from the buzz of the capital,
houses a gorgeous garden and pool area,
a range of restaurants with the lagoon as
the backdrop and with its resident Deep
Nature Spa, you’ll be able to relax after a
busy day of biking.
As mountain bikers, we have a deep love
affair with dirt and I feel these kind of
experiences are an essential part of what
it means to ride bikes. Fully immersing
yourself into the nature of the destination
leaves you with a sense of excitement
and awe, which is what exploration and
adventure is all about…..and why New
Caledonia is a place that should be on
everyone’s trail checklist.
GET CLOSER TO
adventure
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241
The people also have a big part to play in that magic.
newcaledonia.travel

v a n u a t u
VANUATU
8 OUTER ISLANDS TIPS
Vanuatu’s outer islands are rich in culture,
landscape and adventure, but before you
book your flights and hop over to this
tropical paradise, it’s important to get some
tips to help you understand the nuance of
this family of islands. Here are eight things
you need to know before booking your
Vanuatu escape.
88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241 ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//89

Get used to island time: Make sure you
don’t bring your traditional approach to
time and tourism to Vanuatu. Sure, you
may be told your charter flight will leave
the outer island airport at 2pm, or that your
driver will pick you up at 11am, but don’t
be mad if nobody arrives on time. It’s not
done out of spite, or laziness, there’s just
no reason to rush. If you always keep a
good book tucked away in your backpack,
or a deck of cards, you’ll be just fine. Have
a couple of buffer days at the end of your
trip as well, just in case!
Tell your friends and family you’ll be
back soon, you’re going off-grid: It’s so
easy to romanticise going off grid – lying
back under coconut palms, floating in
crystal clear waters. Being disconnected
from the cyber world can be both anxiety
inducing and incredible freeing. However,
going ‘off-grid’ in the outer islands of
Vanuatu means more than just no internet.
It often means no electricity either.
While the capital city of Port Vila and main
tourism towns have power and modern
amenities, this is not the case everywhere.
Unplugging is part of the charm of the
remote islands of Vanuatu, but it does
mean you need to be prepared. Pack
some spare batteries for your camera and
let your friends and family know you may
be out of contact for a few days. You can
get a local sim card, but they don’t work
everywhere. Understand that a lack of
electricity will affect your ability to have
a hot shower, run a fan in the heat of
the day and flush a toilet. This is a great
opportunity to let it all go, soak up the sun
and the culture, and sink into Vanuatu life.
Book most of your activities when
you get there: I know it’s tempting to
book everything before you go – to get
on that plane with a clear plan and a
strict itinerary. But you can’t do that for
the outer islands of Vanuatu. And that’s
part of the magic. It’s part of the essence
of this network of islands. It’s not about
how much you can jam pack into a small
amount of time. It’s not about aligning
things this way and that. It’s about
immersing yourself into the way of life of
the Vanuatu people. Your loose plans will
change. You’ll learn about an activity that
wasn’t listed online. If you come with a
vague idea but nothing set in stone, you’ll
leave yourself open to the unexpected
adventures that await in Vanuatu. You’ll
also see the most beautiful side of the
people who love to care and share – so let
them!
Get ready to dance: Often, when
you have the privilege of witnessing a
traditional cultural dance in an outer
island village, a smiling local will drag you
into the circle, teach you how to move,
and encourage you to dance and sing.
Embrace this! Move your hips and stomp
your feet and laugh with the children.
Once you allow yourself to let go, you’ll be
dancing your way across the islands.
Pack your hiking boots: Vanuatu’s
outer islands aren't just isolated beaches
and fresh coconuts. There are hundreds
of hikes and volcanoes and waterfalls
that will take your breath away. Good
(waterproof) hiking boots are essential if
you’re the adventurous type. Wet weather
gear wouldn’t be a bad idea either– you
never know when the tropical rains might
hit.
If you’ve got a sweet tooth, stock up on the
main islands. There are few stores dotted
around the outer islands, but they don’t
always have the variety of snacks you
may be craving – although the fruit will be
unbelievably good. If you fly into Santo or
Port Vila, stock up there. We recommend
Aelan chocolate – it’s a social enterprise
that makes the most delicious chocolate,
with cocoa grown from the volcanic soil
across the outer islands!
Pack your own snorkel gear
If you’re a keen diver, you’ll be
overwhelmed by just how many reefs there
are to explore. You won’t always be able
to source gear to rent, so if you love to
explore the underwater world, it’s best you
bring your own snorkel and goggles. You
never know who you might meet under
there: a sleepy dugong, a friendly turtle or
an excitable pod of dolphins.
Be Prepared
While adventure is why we are here,
drama is not. Realising that you are going
into remote areas where there is very little
infrastructure, adjust how you prepare your
gear to suit this reality. Ensure you have
a good medical first aid kit, take plenty of
cash (there are no ATMs in the remote
islands), insect repellents, bag liners for
wet days, pack spares of necessary items
(batteries), medication and so on. Grab
what you need before you go.
For more information visit
www.vanuatu.travel/en/experiences/hiking
Go explore at vanuatu.travel
1.30pm Siri Falls, Gaua
Hiking Diving Culture
Volcanos
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#241

E-Bike Rentals
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