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STELLENBOSCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
LOW-INTERVENTION WINEMAKING IS KEY<br />
AT KEERMONT VINEYARDS<br />
Alex Sarry, winemaker<br />
at Keermont Vineyards<br />
AUTUMN 2023<br />
PAGES 120-130<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTIONS:<br />
SOUTH AFRICA – PORTUGAL – SOUTH-WEST FRANCE – RHONE VALLEY - ITALY
Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com
CONTENTS<br />
COLUMNS / REPORTS<br />
10<br />
34<br />
7<br />
News<br />
10<br />
Terroirs<br />
Bergerac, Fronton,<br />
Gaillac and Jurançon:<br />
Variety in a bottle!<br />
24<br />
Appellations<br />
Brouilly and<br />
Côte-de-Brouilly,<br />
Beaujolais’ fraternal<br />
twins<br />
34<br />
Export<br />
How Portuguese wines<br />
have made impressive<br />
headway in the global<br />
market<br />
44<br />
Grape<br />
Stellenbosch:<br />
crafting a legacy as<br />
“the other great<br />
Cabernet region”<br />
54<br />
Discovery<br />
How Lebanese terroir<br />
and wineries are<br />
expressions of an<br />
ancient land<br />
64<br />
Nursery<br />
Mercier Vine nursery,<br />
where innovation comes<br />
second nature<br />
69<br />
Trend<br />
Italy’s no and low<br />
alcohol pioneers<br />
79<br />
Discovery<br />
AOC Médoc:<br />
the revolution of a lowprofile,<br />
but innovative<br />
appellation<br />
89<br />
Focus<br />
ANORA, the birth of a<br />
wine and spirits giant<br />
94<br />
Terroirs<br />
Beaumes-de-Venise, Cairanne,<br />
Gigondas, Rasteau and<br />
Vinsobres, five southern jewels<br />
in the Rhone Valley crown<br />
104<br />
Organic<br />
Argentina, a long-standing<br />
tradition of organic wines<br />
112<br />
Focus<br />
Cantine Volpi from ‘Osteria’<br />
to cutting-edge Piedmont<br />
advocate<br />
117<br />
Stars & Wine<br />
Michael Douglas:<br />
“I discovered and learned to<br />
enjoy wine in France”<br />
119<br />
Contact details<br />
120<br />
Autumn selection 2023<br />
69<br />
104<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard next issue<br />
Winter 2023<br />
COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -<br />
GREGORI PHOTOGRAPHIE<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
3
EDITORIAL<br />
FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
THE EXTRAORDINARY BOOM OF STELLENBOSCH<br />
CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon has been grown in South Africa<br />
for over a hundred years, but its plantings remained<br />
quite limited until the end of the 20 th century. It is now<br />
the most widely planted red grape variety and the Stellenbosch<br />
region is its cradle. It has helped develop Bordeauxstyle<br />
blends which are popular both in South Africa and<br />
elsewhere, and is now being reinvented in a less powerful<br />
iteration to produce outstanding wines.<br />
Stellenbosch offers the ideal soil types and weather<br />
patterns to produce world-class Cabernet. The mild<br />
temperatures with sufficient sunshine hours throughout<br />
the day, soils with good drainage comprising a good<br />
amount of granite, schist and sandstone, and fairly<br />
moderate rainfall combine to ensure the variety can<br />
thrive effortlessly. Elevations across the region range<br />
from 150 to 600 metres above sea level with an average<br />
temperature of 16.4°C and annual rainfall of between 600<br />
and 800 mm, which is virtually identical to Bordeaux!<br />
Also, even if rain is lacking during the summer months,<br />
winegrowers can store surplus water for irrigation if<br />
necessary. And South Africa has some of the oldest<br />
vineyard soils in the world, which also happen to be the<br />
poorest and least fertile – adding one more string to the<br />
country’s Cabernet Sauvignon bow.<br />
We have undertaken a major series of tastings (pages<br />
121-124) from which we have selected 55 wines, including<br />
38 that were rated 90/100 or above so that we can<br />
convince you once and for all of Cabernet Sauvignon’s<br />
quality in the region. And it seems pretty clear that it has<br />
a great future ahead of it!<br />
4 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
EDITORIAL<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
RHONE VALLEY<br />
THE SOUTHERN GROWTHS DO NOT DISAPPOINT<br />
Often overshadowed by the stars of the Northern<br />
Rhone Valley, the region’s southern vineyards cover<br />
an impressive 65,000 hectares out of a total 70,000 across<br />
the valley. This equates to 93% of area under vine, producing<br />
2.6 million hectolitres in 2020. We thought an area of<br />
such magnitude deserved to be put in the limelight.<br />
In the southern reaches of the river, the soils are predominantly<br />
clay-limestone and very often strewn with their<br />
hallmark pebbles carried down by the river and its tributaries<br />
from the glaciers in the Alps over thousands of years.<br />
The climate is typically Mediterranean and guarantees<br />
exceptionally high sunshine, in excess of 2,700 hours a<br />
year, moderated by the most famous wind in the South<br />
of France – the Mistral. The northerly wind has a significant<br />
influence on growing vines – it is cold and dry and<br />
is particularly beneficial during damp spells which can be<br />
very destructive when summers are very dry.<br />
The range of vineyard sites also explains why such a broad<br />
array of varietals is grown in comparison with the northern<br />
Rhone Valley, which has more of a single varietal slant,<br />
with Syrah for the reds and Viognier for Condrieu. For<br />
the red varieties, Syrah is still widely grown in the South,<br />
alongside Grenache noir, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. For the<br />
whites, companions for Viognier include Grenache blanc,<br />
Clairette, Marsanne and Roussanne.<br />
This extensive collection of grape varieties combined with<br />
unique local weather patterns paves the way for a varied<br />
range of wines, even in neighbouring areas like Gigondas<br />
and Vacqueyras. This, indeed, is where the magic of wine<br />
lies – once it has passed through the ‘terroir’ filter, it has<br />
the ability to deliver different sensations, virtually with<br />
each step you take in the vineyard.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
5
EDITORIAL<br />
SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
THE BLESSED LAND<br />
South-West France is home to an incredible array<br />
of vineyard sites and wines. As the country’s<br />
fourth largest wine region by volume, it extends over<br />
47,000 hectares and 13 departments. We have selected<br />
four areas from this huge archipelago of vineyards which<br />
perfectly illustrate the uniqueness and diversity of this<br />
land blessed for winegrowing.<br />
Bergerac is mainly home to clay-limestone and gravelly<br />
soils, offering the vines a measure of freshness and good<br />
irrigation due to the ability of limestone to filter water.<br />
The soils are well-suited to growing Cabernet, Merlot,<br />
Sauvignon and Sémillon. The wines show proximity to<br />
Bordeaux, both geographically and stylistically, but unlike<br />
Bordeaux, they come totally fuss-free.<br />
Between the Tarn and the Garonne, the vineyards of<br />
Fronton cover alluvium soils of pebbles, gravel, sand and<br />
leached sandy-loam known as ‘boulbenes’, along with<br />
clay-silt (‘rougets’), stones and gravel on a clay base. But<br />
the appellation’s ‘secret weapon’ is Négrette – 96% of the<br />
variety’s global acreage is located here – which lends the<br />
wines their inimitable character.<br />
The story is similar in Gaillac where native varietals are<br />
part of the region’s lifeblood. These combine with the<br />
Mediterranean temperatures, Bordeaux-style humidity<br />
from the Atlantic and the Autun wind which caresses the<br />
vines with its warmth.<br />
In Jurançon, which stems from the formation of the Pyrenees<br />
mountains, the soils are clay-silt and pebbles. They<br />
provide a home for grape varieties that can be found<br />
virtually nowhere else – Gros and Petit Manseng, Camaralet,<br />
Courbu and Lauzet. The vineyards face South and<br />
benefit from a long autumn season when the grapes are<br />
picked by hand from mid-October through to December<br />
for the late-harvest wines.<br />
You’d be hard pushed to find greater variety and uniqueness,<br />
either in France or overseas.<br />
6 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
NEWS<br />
Have you ever noticed how much<br />
better fruit tastes when you eat it<br />
straight off the tree or the vine?<br />
Why not try our AOP Minervois<br />
or Saint-Chinian and our IGP<br />
Haute Vallée de l’Orb wines in their<br />
homeland, a region of outstanding<br />
natural beauty stretching<br />
from the Minervois to the Caroux ?<br />
www.minervois-caroux.com<br />
NEWS<br />
Daniel Aslanian, Marina Rabineau and their niece Marion have chosen to plant vineyards West of Brest,<br />
almost on the northern tip of the bay, not far from the Petit Minou lighthouse.<br />
It is an open secret that climate change has paved the way for<br />
vineyards to be grown as far North as southern Sweden. But<br />
on the very tip of continental Europe, in such a damp location<br />
near the sea is certainly a challenge. The threesome are not<br />
your average winegrowers though – during the week, Daniel<br />
works as a geologist with Ifremer, Marina is also a geologist<br />
but with CNRS, and Marion runs a wine exhibition in<br />
Languedoc. At Le Minou they have chosen to plant Chenin –<br />
do you know of many Chenin vines planted on granite? – and<br />
some Pinot noir, from Burgundy. On their steep, 45% inclines,<br />
basking in the mild climate in the bay, the first vines are now<br />
entering their third year and are looking superb. Everything<br />
is grown “more than organically”, with massal selection, no<br />
sprays and 100% agro-forestry. The first wines are due to be<br />
made next year. “Perhaps some sparkling wine”, says Marion,<br />
“but for now we have to work on ripeness”. Watch this space!<br />
VINEYARDS IN BRITTANY!<br />
MARION ASLANIAN, FROM<br />
LANGUEDOC TO BRITTANY<br />
WITH STEEP INCLINES AND THE SEA<br />
NEARBY, THE LOCATION IS CHALLENGING<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
7
NEWS<br />
2023 GOSSET CELEBRIS TROPHY<br />
WHERE INNOVATION REMAINS A PRIORITY<br />
The trophy now celebrates initiatives or concepts focusing both on tangible and intangible heritage and successfully showcases noble<br />
ideas in the vanguard of modernity, even if they have been around for decades or even centuries.<br />
case in point is the Auteuil Apprentices, 2023 award recipient,<br />
A which was founded in 1866 and launched the SKOLA educational<br />
initiative for viticulture in 2018, in conjunction with several chateaux<br />
from the ‘Vignerons du Vivant’ collective in the Médoc. The scheme<br />
trains 16 to 30 year-olds with no or few qualifications whose challenging<br />
situation prevents them from being socially integrated. By preparing<br />
them for viticulture jobs at the partner wineries directly, the programme<br />
introduces them to a profession, the beauty of nature, the pride of doing<br />
a job and the strength of being part of a group.<br />
“Supporting young people who are struggling is the driving force behind<br />
the Auteuil Apprentices foundation and seeing them blossom when they<br />
find their niche in life is the greatest reward”, concludes Nicolas Truelle,<br />
ALAIN BARATON, LAST YEAR’S TROPHY RECIPIENT, NICOLAS TRUELLE,<br />
the foundation’s managing director.<br />
KARINE VALENTIN AND JEAN-PIERRE COINTREAU (GOSSET PRESIDENT)<br />
The panel’s special award this year went to the ‘Osmothèque’. This<br />
unusual name refers to a project aimed at preventing perfumes of the past from falling into oblivion and to do the same thing with<br />
present-day perfumes that could experience the same fate. The mission of this one-of-a-kind institution, run by Thomas Fontaine,<br />
is to identify, collect and preserve the perfumes, but also to track down some that have disappeared and bring them back to life by<br />
recreating them from the original formulae. The institution is a kind of shared memory of aromas.<br />
TREASURE HUNT: A FABULOUS €100,000 WINE CELLAR TO BE WON<br />
The creators of the Unsolved treasure hunt, in conjunction with Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte, Petit Futé guide books<br />
and over 40 wineries, have just launched Elixir d’Or, an international treasure hunt translated<br />
Elixir d’Or is the first global treasure hunt for<br />
wine and heritage. The prize is the wine cellar<br />
worth €100,000 of the Count of Saint-Germain,<br />
a multilingual adventurer, alchemist, spy and<br />
18th century figure reputed to be immortal. The<br />
treasure hunt is an armchair game – the six short<br />
riddles written on a scroll can be solved at home.<br />
The riddles point to an extremely specific location<br />
in France where a chest is buried. The first person<br />
to dig in the right place and find the chest wins the<br />
into seven languages which is open to everyone (except minors).<br />
cellar and the game ends. The Elixir d’Or cellar<br />
will be on display throughout the game at Vauxle-Vicomte<br />
castle, a classic ‘Grand Siècle’ masterpiece,<br />
where it will wait patiently to be claimed by<br />
the winner presenting the chest. There’s no rush<br />
– often this type of game tends to last a long time.<br />
‘On the Trail of the Golden Owl’, launched by Max<br />
Valentin and Michel Becker in 1993, attracted<br />
300,000 players and has yet to be solved!<br />
https://elixirdor.com<br />
UNSOLVED SPECIALISES IN<br />
TREASURE HUNTS<br />
8 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
EDMOND CORNU<br />
& FILS<br />
2021<br />
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+33 2 40 63 04 42<br />
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CAVAVIN_<strong>GG</strong>53_PAGE_9.indd 1 28/09/2023 11:26:21<br />
7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France<br />
Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88<br />
Editorial Directors:<br />
François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard<br />
Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard<br />
Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe<br />
Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout,<br />
Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull<br />
Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard<br />
Contributors to this issue: Ellen Budge, Camille<br />
Bernard, Jean-Paul Burias, Isabelle Escande, Hady<br />
Haydamous, Mauricio Llaver, Sylvain Patard,<br />
Francesco Saverio Russo, Samarie Smith-Meletiou<br />
DipWSET, Frank Rousseau<br />
Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti, CS<br />
Traduções<br />
Sales and Marketing Director:<br />
Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26<br />
etienne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising France:<br />
Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet:<br />
+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:<br />
Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 -<br />
nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West -<br />
Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 -<br />
caroline@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne:<br />
Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 -<br />
ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente:<br />
(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
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Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial director:<br />
Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Third quarter 2023 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form is expressly<br />
prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
9
BERGERAC, FRONTON, GAILLAC<br />
AND JURANÇON:<br />
VARIETY IN A BOTTLE!<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES - © INFINITYGRAPHIC,<br />
STEPHAN MEDINA - © GREGORI<br />
PHOTOGRAPHIE<br />
It may well be overshadowed by Bordeaux in terms of reputation, but South-<br />
West France is just brimming with remarkable appellations offering unlimited<br />
flavour experiences. Still relatively under-the-radar, the appellations are very<br />
competitively priced and tick all the boxes for a broad consumer audience, both in<br />
France and overseas. We take a closer look…<br />
AN OVERALL VIEW OF CHATEAU DE TERRIDE<br />
10 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
NÉGRETTE, FRONTON’S ICONIC GRAPE VARIETY<br />
A<br />
ll four appellations offer some subtle tasting experiences, underpinned by<br />
their distinctive terroirs and clearly delineated personas. In Bergerac, where<br />
the varietal range is virtually identical to Bordeaux, differing soil types and attractive<br />
pricing across all three colours set the appellation apart. Grown on terraced<br />
vineyards lining the left bank of the Tarn, between two South-West cities with their<br />
red-tiled roofs – Toulouse and Montauban – Fronton covers just 1,200 hectares<br />
under vine with 40 independent wineries and one co-operative. Its iconic grape<br />
variety, Négrette, is produced as a single varietal or in blends and owes its name<br />
to its black colour. It delivers elegant, aromatic wines showing aromas of red and<br />
black fruits, violet and liquorice. The vibrant, fresh rosé renditions are also long<br />
and complex on the palate. Gaillac enjoys an idyllic location between the Mediterranean<br />
and the Atlantic, its climate combining Mediterranean heat with the<br />
dampness of the ocean and the occasional Autan wind. These conditions enhance<br />
the fruit and allow it to reach peak ripeness so that vines can deliver generous,<br />
appealing aromatics. Here, winegrowers play it local, with varieties such as Len<br />
de Lel – literally away from the eye – and Mauzac for the whites and Braucol,<br />
Duras and Prunelart for the reds. Prunelart is one of Gaillac’s oldest cultivars and<br />
is currently very fashionable. Offbeat dry Jurançon guarantee aromatic freshness<br />
in their youth, with highly expressive notes of citrus and tropical fruits. They share<br />
their name with a sweet iteration, suffused with light and amber highlights, which<br />
belong to France’s prestigious offering of top dessert wines. The varietal staple Gros<br />
Manseng is complemented by Petit Manseng, Petit and Gros Courbu, Lauzet and<br />
Camaralet. This unique and extensive collection of varieties is used to produce both<br />
sweet and dry wines, snapped up by consumers the world over.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
11
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
GAILLAC<br />
MAISON LABASTIDE:<br />
ARTISAN WINEGROWING<br />
MICHEL MARTINEZ, THE WINEMAKER AT MAISON LABASTIDE<br />
MAISON LABASTIDE<br />
Founded in 1949 and originally called the Coteaux<br />
de Gaillac et du Pays Cordais Co-operative Winery,<br />
Maison Labastide has around 100 member winegrowers<br />
producing approximately 60,000 hectolitres<br />
of wine. The winery has long-standing roots<br />
in the heart of Occitania and over the years has<br />
established itself as a major Gaillac producer. Its<br />
winegrowers have focused their efforts on the<br />
distinctive identity that stems from local grape<br />
varieties and a broad-ranging product portfolio<br />
which even includes lightly sparkling white Gaillac.<br />
“Our company combines the craftsmanship of its<br />
winegrowers with the technical expertise of its<br />
winemakers, using modern equipment to craft<br />
on-trend wine styles”, explains winery chairman<br />
Alain Fonvieille. “Our USP is that we create<br />
distinctive, authentic wines, many of them single<br />
varietals. Our hallmark vineyard sites and grape<br />
varieties, most of which are native to the region,<br />
produce unique wines and that is a major advantage<br />
for warding off competition from our South-<br />
West neighbours mostly”. A range of vineyard<br />
management techniques promotes great variety,<br />
allowing the winery to make dry, lightly sparkling<br />
dry and sweet wines, but also late-harvest or<br />
early-release wines, reds, rosés and ancestral<br />
methods. This variety gives the winery access to a<br />
number of markets, which is not necessarily true<br />
for the competition. “The price is also an advantage<br />
compared with other appellations”, claims marketing<br />
director Arnaud Elgoyhen. “The quality of the<br />
wines has improved dramatically over the past few<br />
decades, coupled with a strong artisan identity,<br />
both of which are genuine advantages for both<br />
trade and private customers”.<br />
CHÂTEAU DE TERRIDE:<br />
OUTSTANDING WINES<br />
The stunning and unique Château de Terride<br />
stands like an enclave in its pristine natural<br />
12 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
surroundings, ringed by Grésigne forest. The<br />
former hunting lodge was built in 1652 and was<br />
converted into a winery in the 1960s. It was<br />
bought by Solange and Jean-Paul David in 1996<br />
who set about diversifying the business. Since<br />
2003, it has been managed by their daughter Alix<br />
with her husband Romain Gérard who focuses<br />
primarily on the estate’s significant wine tourism<br />
activities. The 32 hectares of organically farmed<br />
vineyards are 80% planted to red varieties –<br />
Duras, Syrah, Braucol, Merlot, Prunelard and<br />
Grenache – complemented by 20% white varieties<br />
Mauzac, Len De Lel and Viognier. “We craft<br />
generous, modern and authentic wines”, explains<br />
Alix David. “The combination of vineyard sites,<br />
climate and unusual grape varieties allows us to<br />
produce characterful and elegant yet also appetising<br />
wines”. Three ranges are available, all of<br />
them encapsulating the qualities of Gaillac whilst<br />
at the same time acting as a skilful counterpoint to<br />
neighbouring appellations in South-West France.<br />
The winery’s outstanding labels Ta Main sur mon<br />
Chemin, Diva and Mystère stand alongside the<br />
chateau’s Collection with characterful reds, dry<br />
and sweet whites, rosés, ancestral method white<br />
and Fantaisies, encompassing dry whites, dry,<br />
fruity rosés and a light, fruity red.<br />
ALIX DAVID PRESENTS HER CHÂTEAU DE TERRIDE LABEL,<br />
A CHARACTERFUL ROSÉ<br />
JÉRÔME BEZIOS, WITH HIS PARENTS MARIE-JOSÉ AND JEAN-MARIE BEZIOS<br />
AT DOMAINE LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS<br />
DOMAINE LA CROIX<br />
DES MARCHANDS:<br />
CAPITALISING ON VARIETY<br />
Domaine La Croix des Marchands epitomises a<br />
seamless, and relevant transition from pottery to<br />
grapes. Set in the heart of the Gaillac wine region,<br />
the winery is located on the site of a major pottery<br />
centre dating back to Gallo-Roman times, where<br />
vines have been grown for over two thousand<br />
years. Established in the 1930s, this family-run<br />
farm was reorganised by Jean-Marie Bezios in 1975<br />
with a single-minded focus on winegrowing. The<br />
first vintage was released in 1983. After studying<br />
viticulture, his son Jérôme Bezios joined him in<br />
1998. A year later, the property was extended with<br />
the addition of Château Palvié broadening the<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
13
JÉRÔME BEZIOS AT DOMAINE<br />
LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS<br />
TASTING WINE<br />
THE CELLAR AT DOMAINE<br />
LA CROIX DES MARCHANDS<br />
range. “Our advantage is that we work on two out of the three Gaillac terroirs – the<br />
left bank of the Tarn with its gravel terraces, and the right bank with its clay-limestone<br />
hillsides”, comments Jérôme Bezios. “The first one yields fruit-forward,<br />
spicy reds and the second produces more structured, concentrated wines”. The<br />
winery also boasts heirloom, characterful grape varieties which produce wines<br />
with a very different flavour to Bordeaux. “Customers today want easier drinking<br />
reds with ripe fruit and very fine tannins”, comments Bezios. “We export 5 to 10%<br />
of our wines to Europe and the United States, where customers are very receptive<br />
to their value for money”.<br />
FRONTON<br />
CHÂTEAU BAUDARE: THE ART OF NÉGRETTE<br />
Château Baudare is an essential stop for anyone wishing to discover all the qualities<br />
of Fronton through its elegant, appetising reds and its fresh, aromatic rosés.<br />
Although it is grown in the Vendée and the French islands of Ré and Oléron, along<br />
with California, 96% of Négrette in France is located in Fronton. Across the estate’s<br />
50 hectares of vineyards, the variety, with its intense black colour, is planted on<br />
three different but complementary soil types – sandy, clayey and flinty stones.<br />
This variety lends complexity and finesse to the blends. The family-run property,<br />
whose first eight hectares of vines were bought by Jean Vigouroux in 1882, has been<br />
managed by fifth-generation winegrower David Vigouroux since 1996.<br />
14 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THIERRY ROCH IN THE<br />
VINEYARDS OF GAILLAC<br />
ALIX DAVID TASTING WINES<br />
IN THE CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU<br />
DE TERRIDE<br />
DAVID VIGOUROUX AND<br />
HIS FATHER CLAUDE AT<br />
CHÂTEAU BAUDARE<br />
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
15
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
DAVID VIGOUROUX TASTING WINES<br />
AT CHÂTEAU BAUDARE<br />
“The influence of terroir on the appellation’s<br />
primary grape variety Négrette is huge. The sand<br />
brings out a mineral edge, the clay instils fruitiness<br />
and the flint adds spice”, he stresses. “It is difficult<br />
to compete with our more famous neighbours<br />
like Bordeaux, but we manage to do so by making<br />
supple, fruity wines that are affordable and more<br />
importantly by promoting them tirelessly”.<br />
CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT:<br />
THE MARK OF A GIANT<br />
PHILIP GRANT, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA<br />
FORÊT<br />
It is not easy to miss Château Bellevue la Forêt.<br />
An iconic landmark in the Fronton appellation<br />
area, this outstanding winery also has the most<br />
extensive footprint with 112 hectares, making it<br />
the largest privately-owned, unbroken expanse<br />
of vines in South-West France. A frequent awardwinner<br />
in national and international competitions,<br />
the winery was taken over in 2008 by<br />
Philip Grant who realised his dream of owning<br />
a vineyard in France after a successful career in<br />
corporate finance. “The chateau is located on a hill<br />
and boasts a unique micro-climate which contributes<br />
to fruit ripening”, explains Grant. “The soils<br />
are mainly pebbles which allows for good drainage<br />
and promotes quality grapes”. The winery<br />
produces several lines, each with its own characters<br />
that vary depending on the vintage, the blend<br />
and winemaking techniques used. Reds account<br />
for 64% of total production, versus 34% for the<br />
rosés, complemented by a small amount of whites.<br />
“Négrette is unique to the Fronton region”, points<br />
out sales representative Marcelin Clergue. “This<br />
specificity can appeal to wine enthusiasts who are<br />
looking for new flavour experiences, complexity,<br />
balance and character, all of which can compete<br />
with more prestigious wine regions. Fronton is<br />
still under-the-radar and offers excellent value for<br />
money for price-sensitive consumers. We absolutely<br />
must promote awareness of our appellation.<br />
Competition between regions must be considered<br />
as an opportunity to explore and celebrate choice<br />
in the marketplace”.<br />
16 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
THE VINEYARDS AT CHATEAU LESTEVENIE<br />
THE OWNERS OF CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE, PETRIE AND JACO TERBLANCHE<br />
BERGERAC<br />
CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE: INTERNATIONAL FORTUNES<br />
Serendipity is probably the word that best summarises the recent history of<br />
this winery. South African natives Petrie and Jaco Terblanche met in New York,<br />
whilst Petrie was living in San Francisco and Jaco in London, where they both<br />
had senior positions in embryology and accountancy. After moving to France and<br />
getting married, they decided to embark on a career change. In February 2022,<br />
they became the owners of Château Lestevenie. “By a curious twist of fate, the T<br />
represents the winery’s white limestone terroir – literally white earth – but also<br />
the Terblanche family name, its French heritage and the vine growing in excellent<br />
natural conditions”, recounts Petrie Terblanche. “Our terroir is not that dissimilar<br />
to that of the Bordeaux region. It has a limestone base with varying degrees of<br />
clay, depending on whether it is on hillsides or down towards the valley”. All the<br />
vines grow on hillsides where the limestone component favours good drainage.<br />
The clay in the soil helps maintain dampness for longer during rain-free periods.<br />
Producing white Bergerac from Sauvignon and Semillon and reds from Cabernet-Sauvignon,<br />
Cabernet Franc and Merlot, the winery has started exploring<br />
export markets. And initial feedback is good due to the competitive pricing of these<br />
quality wines. “Admittedly, we have neither its history nor its name”, comments<br />
Jaco Terblanche. “But increasingly, wine enthusiasts want to discover and taste<br />
wines outside Bordeaux. Everybody knows Bordeaux, but now they want to try<br />
something new. And that’s exactly what we can offer them”.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
17
THE TEAM AT CHÂTEAU<br />
BELLEVUE LA FORÊT,<br />
WITH PHILIP GRANT<br />
THE WINEMAKER AT<br />
CHATEAU LESTEVENIE,<br />
RAMON SCHOLTZ DURING<br />
HARVESTING<br />
CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE<br />
18 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE:<br />
WHERE ROOTS ARE IMPORTANT<br />
Since 1923, five generations of the Borderie family have woven their story around<br />
Château Poulvère. This former dependency of Château de Monbazillac was built<br />
in the 16 th century. Situated in the Bergerac appellation area, this enclave runs<br />
the gamut from dry white, rosé and red to sweet white appellation wines within<br />
just a five-kilometre radius. “We are deeply attached to our family roots and its<br />
history of winegrowing, which is a part of our everyday lives and one that we<br />
contribute to relentlessly”, stresses Benoît Borderie. “The range of colours we<br />
produce has become a rarity in France and even around the world. It is a genuine<br />
token of our winemaking skills but also a worthwhile sales proposition”. Château<br />
Poulvère produces its six appellations using two or three different winemaking<br />
techniques. Consequently, it is able to offer up to thirteen variations for every<br />
vintage, from a range of purely fruit-forward renditions through to the high-end<br />
offerings with deliberate aromatic complexity. “The current climate is much more<br />
favourable for appellations like ours”, claims Bernard Borderie. “For many years,<br />
we remained in Bordeaux’s shadow, but over the past few years there’s been<br />
a definite reshuffle. French customers, and increasingly overseas clients, are<br />
now looking for some real gems. The winery’s image has become all-important,<br />
THE BORDERIE FAMILY AT CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
19
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
whereas the appellation has been pushed more<br />
to the backburner and is used to locate the origin<br />
of the wine and identify the production specifications<br />
complied with in the vineyard and the<br />
winery. Bergerac, which was long regarded as<br />
very run-of-the-mill, now has a much improved<br />
and dynamic image. This is the culmination of<br />
many years’ hard work and from this perspective,<br />
the future for us seems bright”.<br />
CHÂTEAU LA FORÊT -<br />
VIGNOBLES BORIE:<br />
THE PERFECT BLEND<br />
LAURENCE NICOLAS OF VIGNOBLES BORIE IN THE VINEYARD<br />
A DOVECOT AT VIGNOBLES BORIE<br />
Time has worked its magic on the development of<br />
Château La Forêt. Set in the heart of Périgord, what<br />
began life as four hectares of farmland at the turn<br />
of the 20 th century, has now become 80 hectares.<br />
After taking over from his parents in 1998, Hervé<br />
Borie was joined by his partner Laurence Nicolas<br />
in 2011, a former winemaker in Bordeaux. Their<br />
shared mantra is to produce and mature very<br />
fruity, site-expressive wines. “What makes us<br />
different is that our varietal range includes a high<br />
proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon for the reds<br />
and Sauvignon for the whites”, explains Nicolas.<br />
“The Cabernet-Sauvignon grows on clay-limestone<br />
soils and leached sandy-loam known as ‘boulbenes’<br />
whilst the Sauvignon is planted on hillside sites<br />
with great exposure. They both thrive there”.<br />
The blends are often varietal-dominant – 90%<br />
Sauvignon for the dry Bergerac, 90% Malbec for<br />
the rosé Bergerac and 90% Cabernet-Sauvignon<br />
for the red Bergerac. “Our appellation is very<br />
well-known in Belgium for the sweet Côtes-de-<br />
Bergerac, a balanced sweet wine blended from<br />
Semillon and Sauvignon”, adds Borie. “The market<br />
takes up to 20% of our wines. We also work with<br />
Germany where we are identified more as a wine<br />
from South-West France, not far from Bordeaux<br />
but with a more approachable image, consistent<br />
quality and good value for money. Importantly, we<br />
are one of the cheapest appellations in France offering<br />
quality wines and that is definitely a bonus in<br />
export markets”.<br />
20 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH-WEST<br />
TERROIRS<br />
JURANCON<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI:<br />
WHERE UNIQUENESS IS AN ASSET<br />
JEAN-LOUIS LACOSTE, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE NIGRI<br />
SINCE 1993<br />
For four generations, since the turn of the 20th<br />
century, the Lacoste family has owned vineyards<br />
and made wine. It has rejuvenated Domaine<br />
Nigri, founded in 1685, transforming its dry and<br />
sweet Jurançon into the epitome of terroir integrity.<br />
After working as a winemaker in Bordeaux,<br />
Jean-Louis Lacoste has managed the 15-hectare<br />
estate located in the lower foothills of the Pyrenees<br />
since 1993. “The work we do with our fruitforward,<br />
precise wines with their balanced, meltin-the-mouth<br />
acidities, but also with the rare,<br />
forgotten Pyrenean grape varieties is recognised”,<br />
he explains.<br />
“Camaralet de Lasseube and Lauzet have only<br />
gained traction over the past fifteen or so years<br />
in Jurançon but they have long been grown on<br />
the estate. We conducted clonal selections nearly<br />
forty years ago with them”. The two varieties were<br />
developed initially with 80% Gros Manseng to<br />
produce dry labels such as Confluence. Since 2009,<br />
they have offered a unique flavour experience in<br />
the sweet Hors-Piste label, a one-of-a-kind blend<br />
of 50% Petit Manseng, 25 % Camalaret and 25%<br />
Lauzet in the appellation. “We purely promote our<br />
specific traits, our grape varieties, our vineyard<br />
sites, our climate and our landscapes with the<br />
Pyrenees as a backdrop”, says Lacoste. “For some<br />
media, Jurançon is a flagship appellation and<br />
I think we are in the upper echelons”.<br />
THE BARREL CELLAR AT DOMAINE NIGRI<br />
APPELLATIONS WITH A FIRM<br />
ROOTING IN TERROIR<br />
The great variety of French appellations is an<br />
incredible asset and source of interest for wine<br />
enthusiasts. Being located close together is not<br />
necessarily a stumbling block. For many years,<br />
the four appellations that are Bergerac, Fronton,<br />
Gaillac and Jurançon suffered from the domination<br />
of their storied neighbour Bordeaux. But<br />
now, they have successfully demonstrated that<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
21
AN AUTUMN LANDSCAPE<br />
AT DOMAINE NIGRI<br />
CLUSTERS OF THE CAMALARET<br />
DE LASSEUBE GRAPE VARIETY<br />
they too have resources and more importantly, amazing natural conditions<br />
and signature varietals. Winegrowers have switched their focus to<br />
quality, by lowering yields and restructuring their vineyards, enabling the<br />
four appellations to rank among the finest. “Bordeaux sells nearly 4 million<br />
hectolitres of wine a year, compared with less than 50,000 for Fronton”,<br />
stresses Benjamin Piccol, director of the AOP Fronton wine centre. “The<br />
two cannot be compared in size”. Relatively speaking, though, Fronton<br />
displays a measure of vitality and is being rejuvenated. For the past<br />
five or six years, many wineries have been taken over by a new generation,<br />
and 15% have even been bought by novice winegrowers from other<br />
regions, creating healthy competition within the region. The nearby city<br />
of Toulouse has also boosted this vitality, which is shared by Bergerac,<br />
Gaillac and Jurançon, all of which know how to stand out from the crowd,<br />
progress and secure awareness. They also benefit from grape varieties<br />
that are either very well-known or extremely local and help produce novel,<br />
on-trend wines that pique the curiosity of consumers and opinion-leaders<br />
alike in export markets.<br />
22 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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BROUILLY AND<br />
CÔTE-DE-BROUILLY,<br />
BEAUJOLAIS’ FRATERNAL TWINS<br />
BY CAMILLE BERNARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES -<br />
© THOMAS LAMBELIN<br />
Twins and yet different in so many ways, the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly<br />
appellations fully illustrate the breadth and depth of the Beaujolais Crus<br />
proposition. Their location and their name make them neighbours, and yet<br />
they offer unique defining features that translate the subtlety of their respective<br />
vineyard sites and can be identified with every sip.<br />
CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD<br />
24 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BEAUJOLAIS<br />
APPELLATIONS<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DU PÈRE BENOIT<br />
B<br />
eaujolais, the land of Gamay, is home to some real treasures, particularly its<br />
lovely growths or ‘crus’ with their distinctive personas. This vinous treasure<br />
trove features the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly appellations, which form the most<br />
southerly growths.<br />
Covering a sweeping 1,200 hectares, Brouilly is also the most extensive. At its<br />
heart nestles Côte-de-Brouilly, sitting like a mounted gemstone over its smaller<br />
310 hectares. The two areas are so close, but their differing vineyard sites reveal<br />
very different characters.<br />
Perched across the slopes of Mount Brouilly, Côte-de-Brouilly is famous for its<br />
blue stones which lend the wines specific minerality, and an almost ethereal touch.<br />
By contrast, Brouilly, which rings the mountain, offers pink granite-dominant<br />
soils which impart texture, depth and roundness to the wines, making them irresistibly<br />
moreish.<br />
So where Brouilly’s attraction lies in its finesse and fruit, Côte-de-Brouilly generally<br />
delivers more complex, structured wines combining a crisp mouthfeel with<br />
more tightly-wound tannins.<br />
This duality, which stems from unique soils, is also mirrored in the appellations’<br />
respective markets. Whilst Brouilly tends to draw an audience looking for a gentle<br />
introduction to the world of Beauolais, and has long featured on wine lists in many<br />
Parisian restaurants, Côte-de-Brouilly is a more boutique offering, mainly attracting<br />
imbibers looking for more racy, structured wines.<br />
We head off to discover these two Beaujolais neighbours which, far from being<br />
rivals, are actually harmoniously complementary.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
25
LÉGENDES<br />
LA MAISON COQUARD AND ITS OWNER CHRISTOPHE COQUARD<br />
CHRISTOPHE COQUARD, OWNER OF MAISON COQUARD<br />
MAISON COQUARD:<br />
“CRUS THAT ARE SIMILAR AND YET SO DIFFERENT”<br />
With a long-standing tradition of winegrowing, Maison Coquard boasts a unique<br />
heritage perpetuated by generations of passionate winegrowers. In 2005, a decisive<br />
turning point in its history occurred when Christophe Coquard returned to<br />
embrace his vocation as an artisan winegrower. He strove to steer the vineyards<br />
away from their bulk-only trading activity, successfully securing a place for Maison<br />
Coquard among Beaujolais’ must-try wineries which produces all 12 appellations<br />
and 10 Crus.<br />
“The Beaujolais wine market is thriving”, he explains. “Especially because with<br />
climate change the wines offer an enhanced flavour experience. Even though the<br />
region only represents a diminutive 3% of France’s area under vine, the wines are<br />
enjoying dynamic sales that are offering promise”.<br />
Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly “Crus are similar yet different”, stresses Coquard.<br />
They are similar because “both appellations share unique granite soils which lend<br />
their wines hallmark minerality”, but different because “Brouilly is soft and fruity<br />
and has always featured on wine lists in Parisian restaurants whereas Côte-de-<br />
Brouilly appeals to a clientele that is already familiar with Brouilly and wants to<br />
discover something else”.<br />
Whilst pointing out that “the extensive footprint of Brouilly provides the appellation<br />
with noteworthy presence in the marketplace”, he stresses that “Côte-de-<br />
Brouilly enjoys a similar reputation, mainly due to the attraction of Mount Brouilly<br />
which acts as a beacon for tourists among the Beaujolais growths”.<br />
26 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BEAUJOLAIS<br />
APPELLATIONS<br />
“So, Brouilly is widely accessible, but Côte-de-<br />
Brouilly has found its niche in wine merchants’<br />
and export markets, making a name for itself in<br />
markets such as Ireland, Canada, Norway and the<br />
United Kingdom”.<br />
DAVID RATIGNIER, THE WINEGROWER AT CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD<br />
CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD:<br />
“TWO COMPLEMENTARY CRUS”<br />
“Château du Bluizard is a very old estate that dates<br />
back to the Middle Ages”, explains its owner David<br />
Ratignier.<br />
After studying in Montpellier, Beaujolais-born<br />
Ratignier returned to the region and spent 15 years<br />
distributing agricultural products. Call it coincidence<br />
or maybe fate, “the company was based in<br />
the same village as Château du Bluizard and its<br />
owner was a client of mine”. Ratignier was already<br />
interested in taking over the estate, if the opportunity<br />
arose, and he seized that opportunity in<br />
2008. Overnight, he found himself at the helm of<br />
a 30-hectare vineyard.<br />
The task may have deterred some, but as a young<br />
winegrower, Ratignier saw in it an opportunity<br />
to learn and innovate. He gradually developed a<br />
group of young winegrowers, one of whom would<br />
become his business partner.<br />
Over the years, he gradually honed his technical<br />
skills and produced wines that encapsulate the<br />
uniqueness of the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly<br />
vineyard sites. “Brouilly’s granite soils yield silky<br />
wines, whereas the more clayey soils of our Côtede-Brouilly,<br />
located on the valley floor, produce<br />
velvety, rich and tannic wines”.<br />
Ratignier certainly does not view the two Crus as<br />
rivals but rather as complementary growths.<br />
“Côte-de-Brouilly has the advantage of offering<br />
wines that are structured but not at all drying on<br />
the palate, whereas Brouilly produces very fruity<br />
and more accessible wines”.<br />
In terms of respective markets for the twin<br />
growths, Ratignier comments that “Brouilly is<br />
highly prized in Paris and export markets, particularly<br />
Canada, whereas Côte-de-Brouilly sells<br />
well direct-to-consumers and is gaining ground<br />
THE BARREL CELLAR AT CHÂTEAU DU BLUIZARD<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
27
BEAUJOLAIS<br />
APPELLATIONS<br />
in multiple retail”. These are markets where the<br />
winegrower has his finger on the pulse, producing<br />
wines that can be drunk when young for multiple<br />
retail outlets whilst also extending maturation for<br />
other pours that he sells to his private customers.<br />
FIFTH-GENERATION NICOLAS MUTIN JOINED THE<br />
FAMILY ESTATE IN 2014<br />
DOMAINE DU PÈRE BENOIT:<br />
“BROUILLY AND CÔTE-DE-<br />
BROUILLY ARE INCREASINGLY<br />
ATTRACTING INTEREST”<br />
PASCAL AND LAURENCE MUTIN<br />
Domaine du Père Benoit has a long-standing<br />
family history. Fourth-generation incumbent<br />
Pascal Mutin is the proud standard-bearer of<br />
this tradition. “The name Père Benoit echoes our<br />
surname”, he explains.<br />
In 1991, he and his wife Laurence took over the<br />
reins of what at the time was a 12.5-hectare<br />
vineyard, and extended it to 17 hectares. Joined<br />
by their son Nicolas in 2014, their ethos is based<br />
on treating the land with respect and they adapt<br />
their vineyard management techniques to suit<br />
each block. “For young vines, we choose tillage,<br />
whereas for our century-old vines, our approach<br />
is different”, explains Pascal Mutin. This attention<br />
to detail is mirrored in the winery’s HVE certification,<br />
where the environment is given priority<br />
treatment.<br />
Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly (Ed. 40% of the<br />
winery’s production) are increasingly attracting<br />
interest. “Our winemaking methods have changed.<br />
We have perfected our techniques and this is noticeable<br />
in the quality of our wines”, explains Mutin.<br />
Although most of the winery’s output is bought in<br />
France, particularly by Parisian customers, the<br />
past two years have seen increased international<br />
popularity.<br />
But the winery’s owner is particularly keen to<br />
highlight the defining features of the two appellations:<br />
“Because it is more extensive, there is<br />
greater geological diversity in Brouilly than in<br />
Côte-de-Brouilly. In the glass, Brouilly wines are<br />
fruity and light, whereas Côte-de-Brouilly is more<br />
robust and powerful, reflecting more concentrated<br />
soils”.<br />
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THE VINEYARDS AT MAISON<br />
COQUARD<br />
PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE<br />
SURROUNDED BY HIS SON<br />
JEAN-ETIENNE AND HIS<br />
WIFE MARTINE<br />
DOMAINE DE BALUCE IS<br />
LOCATED ON A SOUTH-<br />
FACING HILLSIDE IN<br />
BEAUJOLAIS<br />
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PIERRE-MARIE CHERMETTE AND GUY LASSAUSAIE, THE MICHELIN-STARRED CHEF<br />
OF THE NAMESAKE RESTAURANT WHO IS A CUSTOMER OF DOMAINES CHERMETTE<br />
DOMAINES CHERMETTE<br />
DOMAINES CHERMETTE: “BROUILLY IS ONE<br />
OF BEAUJOLAIS’ MOST ICONIC GROWTHS”<br />
Domaines Chermette has a legacy of winegrowing that dates back a century and it reflects the<br />
history of a family with strong ties to the vineyards of Beaujolais. Genealogical research has<br />
shown that the Chermette family moved to the region in the 17th century, settling in Vissoux,<br />
a locality whose name actually stems from the surname of Pierre-Marie Chermette’s ancestors.<br />
As the owner of the family-run winery, he describes its history with undeniable passion: “In the<br />
past, mixed farming took pride of place, but for the last three decades, the farm has specialised<br />
in winegrowing. Our estate now covers around 30 hectares certified HVE3”.<br />
The vineyards, which produce 4 of the 10 Beaujolais Crus, call for manual care, shunning all<br />
types of mechanisation, which underscores the family’s unwavering commitment to its outstanding<br />
vineyard sites.<br />
But of the 4 Crus that start life at Domaines Chermette, the winery’s owner claims that “Brouilly<br />
is one of Beaujolais’s most iconic growths”.<br />
What makes the family’s wine bearing the prestigious appellation unique is that “it comes from<br />
a vineyard block located at the foot of Mount Brouilly, where the soils are formed of granite<br />
scree of Carboniferous origin that are more akin to the soils in Côte-de-Brouilly”. In fact, this<br />
unique geological feature has lent its name to the block – stony – “which has sentimental value<br />
to us because it is where my wife’s paternal grandmother was born”.<br />
But in addition to the vineyard sites, the magic occurs in the glass: “Although our wines are<br />
similar in style to Côte-de-Brouilly, they offer the kind of lightness and softness that is typical<br />
of our southern location”. The wines are carefully vinted with semi-carbonic maceration chosen<br />
for the Gamay, as per true Beaujolais tradition, with delicate maturation in large old casks.<br />
This precision craftsmanship secures a place for the wines in restaurants, both in France and<br />
Quebec, where their popularity has not waned since the 1990s.<br />
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JEAN-YVES SONNERY, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE DE BALUCE<br />
THE BARREL CELLAR AT DOMAINE DE BALUCE<br />
DOMAINE DE BALUCE: BROUILLY VERSUS<br />
CÔTE-DE-BROUILLY, IN SEARCH OF BALANCE<br />
Nestled in the heart of the Pierres Dorées area of Beaujolais, on vineyard sites shaped by schist and<br />
volcanic rocks, Domaine de Baluce is a story of love, for vineyards and between one couple.<br />
Jean-Yves Sonnery and his wife Laurence launched their wine venture in 1999, naming their winery<br />
after the combination of their children’s first names, Baptiste and Lucie.<br />
“In the beginning, our vineyards covered no more than 2.5 hectares and were leased. Now, we have<br />
15 hectares, 11 of which we own ourselves”, explains Sonnery. From its humble beginnings, ranging<br />
from cows and cereal crops to grapes sent to the co-operative, the property has now become a fullfledged<br />
winery that focuses on quality and has a close bond with its customers.<br />
Since 2019, Domaine de Baluce has sold half of its wines direct-to-consumers and values the direct<br />
rapport it has established with private customers, wine merchants and restaurateurs.<br />
The artisan approach is tangible at every stage of production. “We do everything by hand, from<br />
training the vines to harvesting”, stresses Sonnery.<br />
The unique location of their vineyard blocks in AOC Brouilly, bordering those of Côte-de-Brouilly,<br />
lends the wines distinctive structure. In fact, Sonnery makes no secret of his ambition of extending<br />
into the neighbouring growth, such is his love of its qualities.<br />
For now though, with the invaluable help of his staff – Maurice and Adeline – and his partner, he is<br />
aiming to “produce the finest possible wines whose character reflects the authenticity of the terroir<br />
they stem from”.<br />
Echoing his belief in the fact that Brouilly deserves patience and attention, Sonnery shuns techniques<br />
widely used by some growers in Beaujolais: “We believe in age-worthy wines. Brouilly needs time”.<br />
Although he has yet to produce any Côte-de-Brouilly, he shows deference to a growth that he considers<br />
to be of higher quality. In fact, he admits that he makes his Brouilly by drawing on winemaking<br />
techniques used in the neighbouring growth.<br />
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BEAUJOLAIS<br />
APPELLATIONS<br />
MAISON JEAN LORON:<br />
“COMPARING APPLES AND ORANGES”<br />
Maison Jean Loron is an undisputed figurehead South of Burgundy. “Its origins<br />
date back to 1711”, points out managing director Philippe Bardet. The company<br />
boasts 220 hectares of vines in Beaujolais and the Mâcon region, where it has a firm<br />
rooting in its winegrowing traditions. It has a foothold in many growths, mainly<br />
Brouilly, “an historic Beaujolais growth”.<br />
At the core of this history, Château de la Terrière and Château de la Pierre (owned<br />
by Maison Jean Loron), produce three different Brouilly labels that illustrate the<br />
unique soil types within their respective sites. “Château de la Terrière has pink<br />
granite soils combining sand and stones with pockets of clay deep down. Conversely,<br />
Château de la Pierre has distinctive blue stones, more typical of Côte-de-<br />
Brouilly”.<br />
But what really sets Brouilly wines by Maison Jean Loron apart is their ripeness.<br />
“We wait until the Gamay is properly ripe to ensure they reach their full phenolic<br />
ripeness. This produces fleshy wines with rounded tannins recalling the structure<br />
of Côte-de-Brouilly wines”.<br />
FRÉDÉRIC MAIGNET, THE WINEMAKER AT MAISON JEAN LORON<br />
AND PHILIPPE BARDET, ITS MANAGING DIRECTOR<br />
32 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
CHÂTEAU DE LA PIERRE, OWNED BY MAISON JEAN LORON<br />
The present-day Maison Jean Loron is proud of its Brouilly range which has enjoyed<br />
resounding success in France and in export markets alike. Nationwide, a significant<br />
chunk of production is marketed in the on-trade and the wines are a noticeable<br />
feature in wine merchants.<br />
Philippe Bardet is fully aware of the fact that if Maison Jean Loron produced Côtede-Brouilly,<br />
it could not supply the same volumes: “The large number of companies<br />
in Côte-de-Brouilly means that the range of wines is equivalent to that produced<br />
in Brouilly”. He adds, “It’s like comparing apples and oranges because ultimately<br />
both growths offer wines with differing qualities”.<br />
NO REAL RIVALRY<br />
Exploring the Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly Crus demonstrates that there is no<br />
simplistic opposition between the two appellations such is their extensive range<br />
of flavours, histories and techniques, all of which add layers to the Beaujolais wine<br />
region. Their differences offer opportunities for wine enthusiasts to discover and<br />
rediscover the two growths from a different perspective. Their complementary<br />
vineyard sites, passionate winegrowers and constant changes in winemaking<br />
methods are all illustrations of the vitality and richness of these vineyard-clad<br />
lands. Brouilly and Côte-de-Brouilly do not share the same name or identity but<br />
what they do share is a quest for excellence. One thing’s for sure – neither could<br />
replace the other. Each one lends its own unique tone to the extensive orchestra<br />
that is Beaujolais.<br />
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HOW PORTUGUESE WINES HAVE<br />
MADE IMPRESSIVE HEADWAY<br />
IN THE GLOBAL MARKET<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
Traditionally, a large share of Portuguese wines have been drunk within the<br />
country. But over the past few years, exports have been on the increase. From<br />
attractive price points to native grape varieties and an extensive product range, the<br />
reasons for their popularity in the global marketplace are legion. And Portuguese<br />
companies have set their sights on securing a prime position for their wines<br />
overseas.<br />
CONSULTANT WINEMAKER JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS INTRODUCED THE WORLD TO PORTUGUESE WINES, BEFORE PLANTING HIS OWN VINES<br />
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PORTUGAL<br />
EXPORT<br />
JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA’S VINEYARDS ARE MAINLY LOCATED ON SETÚBAL PENINSULA<br />
T<br />
he era when Portuguese wines for overseas markets were invariably Port or Madeira<br />
is now long gone. The storied Douro Valley is now also renowned for its dry, fresh still<br />
wines, alongside its celebrated fortified offerings. Outside the region, other areas have<br />
gained traction, like Alentejo with its full-bodied, fruity reds or Vinho Verde and its young,<br />
crisp whites that have become extremely popular. Despite the fact the appellation borders<br />
the Port vineyards, its image could not be further removed from that of the neighbouring<br />
fortified tipples. Sporting a near-on transparent colour, they display trademark acidity<br />
and faint beading, light-years away from the rich, powerful style of Port.<br />
Obviously, the contrast in styles acts as a magnet for an international audience, especially<br />
when the country’s wine proposition aligns with a number of consumer trends, including<br />
a taste for light, fresh pours and the appeal of ‘authentic’ wines honouring their birthplace.<br />
Portuguese producers can pride themselves on a long-standing history of making wine<br />
and have often focused on regionality. In fact, a defining feature of the Portuguese wine<br />
industry is its wealth of native grape varieties – both red and white – which are said to<br />
exceed 300 in number. Also, from a genetic perspective, these local varieties differ greatly<br />
from other Old World cultivars, bar those of the South of France.<br />
Winegrowers do not only safeguard the typicity of their wines, though. Over the past few<br />
years, they have also embraced modern winemaking techniques in a bid to improve quality.<br />
European funding for this has been a valuable resource. The decision to favour a quality<br />
production model that steers away from productivity has borne fruit – Portugal is now<br />
the world’s eighth largest wine exporter with exports rising both by volume and value.<br />
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35
DOMINGOS SOARES FRANCO,<br />
THE WINEMAKER AT<br />
JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA<br />
The country has successfully bolstered its presence in long-standing markets like<br />
Europe, the United Kingdom and the United States, but has also diversified its<br />
import destinations. Present-day wineries have stepped up their communications<br />
activities in Asia – in countries like South Korea and China – where Portuguese<br />
wines are increasingly popular. We met five of the country’s wineries to find out<br />
how they view the changes and their strategies for maintaining and optimising their<br />
positioning in markets around the world.<br />
JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA, QUALITY FIRST<br />
José Maria da Fonseca’s vineyards are mainly located on Setúbal peninsula, along<br />
Portugal’s western coast, where the first vines were allegedly planted on the Iberian<br />
Peninsula. Although the winery does not date back to Antiquity, it nevertheless<br />
boasts a time-honoured tradition of winegrowing. Founded in 1834, it is one of the<br />
oldest producers still operating of the famous Moscatel de Setúbal, the region’s star<br />
pour which was already being exported in the 14th century – Richard II of England<br />
was very fond of it.<br />
Fast forward to 2023 and the heirs of the company’s founder – after whom the<br />
family-run firm is named – are continuing in his footsteps, honouring the winery’s<br />
reputation for excellence that has been garnered over its two-century history. It now<br />
boasts nearly 650 hectares under vine and state-of-the-art winemaking equipment<br />
on a par with the world’s top wineries. It has extended its portfolio of vineyard blocks<br />
on Setúbal peninsula but also acquired vineyards in Alentejo and the Douro.<br />
36 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PORTUGAL<br />
EXPORT<br />
The winery is constantly moving forward and<br />
positioned at the cutting edge of research and<br />
innovation. It has set itself a challenge that<br />
mirrors its ambitions – to become a sustainable<br />
firm across its business, in the vineyards, winery,<br />
bottling facilities and sales department. The<br />
project dictates the company’s export strategy.<br />
Seeking out new export destinations is now off<br />
the agenda – although admittedly José Maria da<br />
Fonseca-labelled wines are already present in the<br />
many import countries across the globe. Emphasis<br />
is now placed on ramping up the company’s<br />
presence in existing markets, and even more<br />
importantly, favouring quality over quantity.<br />
The company exports 50% of its wines, most of<br />
them red, although recently demand for white,<br />
rosé and sparkling wines has grown, comments<br />
Marta Oliveira, the winery’s sales assistant. The<br />
trend reflects current consumer demand for lower<br />
alcohol wines. The Portuguese wine proposition is<br />
extensive and therefore caters to demand across<br />
the international marketplace. The range is not<br />
only varied, stresses Oliveira, but also unique<br />
with grape varieties very seldom found in other<br />
producer regions.<br />
ANTONIO SOARES FRANCO MANAGES THE COMPANY<br />
WITH HIS BROTHER DOMINGOS<br />
GUSTAVO MONTEIRO, THE SALES DIRECTOR<br />
AT AVELEDA<br />
AVELEDA, SHIPPING WINES<br />
TO OVER 80 COUNTRIES<br />
Aveleda, the largest producer and exporter of<br />
Vinho Verde, offers a great illustration of the rise<br />
of Portuguese wines internationally. Founded in<br />
1870, the company has been owned by the Guede<br />
family for 5 generations. Over the course of its<br />
150-year history it has garnered a strong reputation<br />
with a foothold in 5 regions across Portugal –<br />
Vinho Verde, Douro, Bairrada, Algarve and Lisbon<br />
– exporting to over 80 countries. The United<br />
States, Germany, Brazil, Canada and France are its<br />
leading export markets but the company also takes<br />
a keen interest in Eastern Europe, oriental countries<br />
and South America, explains sales director<br />
Gustavo Monteiro.<br />
Despite its exponential rate of growth, the winery<br />
has remained true to its ethos – a fine eye for<br />
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PORTUGAL<br />
EXPORT<br />
VINHOS VERDES AND WINES FROM THE DOURO ARE PARTICULARLY POPULAR<br />
INTERNATIONALLY<br />
detail. Both in the vineyard and the winery, every<br />
task is meticulously handled from gentle pressing<br />
to low-temperature fermentation for example,<br />
with a hands-off approach favoured. The entire<br />
business is run sustainably and the environment<br />
treated respectfully by preserving biodiversity and<br />
terroir integrity, for instance.<br />
In fact, concern for quality is at the root of Portuguese<br />
wines’ success in global markets today,<br />
claims Monteiro. “They offer value for money<br />
which is highly valued internationally”, he adds.<br />
They perhaps lack some exposure still – due to<br />
fairly low production levels and their mostly<br />
off-trade positioning overseas – but clearly a new<br />
trend is emerging”. A noticeable increase in the<br />
number of Portuguese wines entered in major<br />
international competitions underscores this.<br />
Aveleda, which helped secure awareness for Vinho<br />
Verde beyond national borders, was awarded a<br />
gold medal in the latest Gilbert & Gaillard International<br />
Challenge for one of its wines from the<br />
famed appellation. With its notes of white flowers<br />
and citrus fruits, it displays the kind of freshness<br />
that is sure to make it a crowd-pleaser.<br />
ADEGA COOPERATIVA DE<br />
GUIMARÃES OR THE CHARM<br />
OF ‘GREEN WINE’<br />
LOCATED IN THE NORTHERN TIP OF PORTUGAL, THE CO-OPERATIVE IS SITUATED IN THE<br />
MINHO REGION<br />
Although the historic town of Guimarães – once<br />
the capital of Portugal – is listed as a Unesco<br />
heritage site, there is another reason why it now<br />
attracts increasing numbers of visitors. People<br />
travel to see its surrounding vineyards, home to<br />
the Vinho Verde appellation. Nestled amidst the<br />
lush countryside in northern Portugal, it is the<br />
birthplace of mostly white wines that are dry with<br />
faint beading. Their name stems not from their<br />
colour, but from their youthfulness. Produced<br />
from early-harvested fruit, the wines are also<br />
bottled early and should be drunk quickly.<br />
Traditionally favoured by a local audience, over<br />
the past few years the wines have successfully<br />
established a reputation worldwide due to efforts<br />
by the region’s winegrowers – spearheaded by the<br />
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THE TEAM AT JOSÉ MARIA<br />
DA FONSECA<br />
DA FONSECA: THE FAMILY HAS<br />
HELMED THE WINERY FOR<br />
7 GENERATIONS AND ITS HOME<br />
HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO<br />
A MUSEUM<br />
AVELEDA’S NEXT TARGET IS<br />
TO REACH 600 HECTARES<br />
UNDER VINE<br />
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ADEGA COOPERATIVA HANDLES THE ENTIRE PRODUCTION<br />
PROCESS OF THE WINES AFTER THE HARVEST<br />
PEDRO CAMPOS, THE WINEMAKER AT ADEGA COOPERATIVA<br />
DE GUIMARÃES<br />
co-operatives – to embrace modern winemaking techniques. Wineries have fitted<br />
state-of-the-art technology – including stainless steel fermenters and temperature<br />
control – and now focus on quality.<br />
Founded in 1962, Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães is a key player within the<br />
appellation and one of the driving forces behind its newly-minted reputation. The<br />
co-operative’s vineyards are planted on granite soils along the banks of the river<br />
Ave. They produce mainly white wines from a variety of grapes such as Loureiro,<br />
Arinto, Alvarinho and Trajadura. “These varieties are well-suited to the sites in<br />
the region and fully express the hallmark freshness and aromas of Vinho Verde”,<br />
explains the co-operative’s winemaker.<br />
Forty percent of the co-operative’s wines are now bound for export markets.<br />
Although the war in Ukraine has in recent months put a dent in its upward export<br />
trend, comments the co-op’s Bruna Almeida, overseas consignments have undeniably<br />
been on the increase over the past few years. Europe and Brazil were the<br />
first to take an interest in Vinhos Verdes, but the winery is now starting to export<br />
to other destinations, including Korea, Taiwan and China. “These are currently<br />
the markets where we are investing the most, through visits and attendance at<br />
fairs”, admits Almeida.<br />
But what is so different about Vinhos Verdes that they stand out from the crowd?<br />
Their fruit characters and freshness on the palate, along with their varietal blend,<br />
“which make them quite simply unique”. So now you know.<br />
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PORTUGAL<br />
EXPORT<br />
ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE, THE TRAILBLAZER<br />
The first Portuguese wine company to win a gold medal at a prestigious international<br />
competition in 1997 for a red wine entirely made from a native grape variety – Braga, to be<br />
more specific – Adega de Cantanhede turned the spotlight on Portugal’s extensive range<br />
of vine varieties and paved the way for Portuguese wines to enter the global marketplace,<br />
explains winemaker Osvaldo Amado.<br />
From the very outset, when it was founded in 1954 by a hundred or so grape growers, the<br />
co-operative has firmly believed in promoting Portugal’s viticultural heritage to tap into<br />
export markets. To secure shelf stand-out and assert its identity in relation to its well-established<br />
competitors, the native grape varieties which lend Portuguese wines their unique<br />
style have become a goldmine for the winery.<br />
The traditional grape varieties in the Bairrada region, where the co-operative is located, in<br />
the Centre-West of Portugal, are showcased. These include Baga – some of the vines are over<br />
90 years old – Bical and Maria Gomes, alongside other Portuguese varieties that thrive in<br />
the Bairrada appellation area such as Touriga Nacional, Aragonez and Arinto.<br />
With such an extensive varietal range to leverage, the co-operative is able to supply a wide<br />
variety of wines, and this has proven to be a significant bonus in export markets. Its varied<br />
portfolio – including reds, whites, rosés, fortified and classic method sparkling wines –<br />
enables it to cater to countless tastes. This is further bolstered by the fact that its range<br />
runs the gamut, from entry-level table wines to premium pours, securing it a place in over<br />
20 overseas markets.<br />
VICTOR DAMIÃO, ON THE RIGHT, THE CHAIRMAN OF THE ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE CO-OPERATIVE<br />
WITH OSVALDO AMADO, ITS HEAD WINEMAKER<br />
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41
AT JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS,<br />
WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES<br />
HONOUR TRADITION<br />
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PORTUGAL<br />
EXPORT<br />
JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS,<br />
A WINERY FOCUSED<br />
ON EXPORTS<br />
JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS WITH HIS SON JOÃO MARIA<br />
Renowned winemaker João Portugal Ramos, now<br />
a household name in the international market,<br />
has made a major contribution to the reputation<br />
of Portuguese wines around the world. His<br />
sought-after wines are produced in four regions<br />
– Alentejo, Douro, Beiras and Vinho Verde – and<br />
are the best-selling Portuguese wines in several<br />
countries.<br />
The company has always focused on foreign<br />
markets, explains winemaker João Maria Ramos,<br />
the founder’s son. “Over the years, we have<br />
increa sed our export volumes which now account<br />
for 70% of production”. Traditionally, João Portugal<br />
Ramos-labelled wines have been sold in the United<br />
States, Brazil, the United Kingdom, Sweden,<br />
Poland, Belgium and Switzerland, but they are<br />
now making a name for themselves in Australia,<br />
China, Angola and South Africa. The company has<br />
increased its attendance at international fairs and<br />
ramped up its sales team to bolster its presence in<br />
emerging markets.<br />
But the main driver behind its success is its<br />
constant concern for quality and its ability to adapt<br />
to market demand, stresses Ramos. Consumers<br />
now are increasingly looking for sustainably<br />
produced, responsible wines, whose credentials<br />
can be demonstrated, he comments. And at João<br />
Portugal Ramos there is no shortage of green<br />
initiatives, from protecting biodiversity to use of<br />
natural fertilisers, minimal intervention and optimised<br />
water usage, to name a few.<br />
Also, the winery has recently invested in wine<br />
tourism, deemed to be an “extremely important<br />
resource for helping our wines achieve success<br />
overseas”, claims Ramos. “Portugal welcomes<br />
millions of holidaymakers every year and many<br />
of them want to visit wineries. We want them<br />
to enjoy a unique experience and that when they<br />
leave, they look out for Portuguese wines in their<br />
home country”. The circle is now complete.<br />
HARVESTING BY HAND IS THE NORM AT JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS<br />
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STELLENBOSCH: CRAFTING<br />
A LEGACY AS “THE OTHER GREAT<br />
CABERNET REGION”<br />
BY SAMARIE SMITH-MELETIOU<br />
DIPWSET<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
Stellenbosch is the heartbeat of South African Cabernet Sauvignon, whose legacy<br />
has been nurtured here for over a century, rooted in soils as old as 600 million<br />
years. This storied region boasts a landscape sculpted by towering mountains<br />
and nuanced valleys where Cabernet Sauvignon has become inseparable from<br />
its identity. Furthering its international footprint, Stellenbosch Cabernet was<br />
founded as a collective, underscoring a decade-long journey of refining Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon and beckoning the curious Cabernet Sauvignon drinker to delve deeper.<br />
ALTO ESTATE’S NORTH-FACING LOCATION ON THE HELDERBERG IS DOUSED WITH SUNSHINE, WHILE THE PROXIMITY OF THE OCEAN AND<br />
SOUTH-EASTERLY WINDS MODERATE TEMPERATURES, CREATING THE IDEAL ENVIRONMENT FOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
THELEMA MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS HAVE SOME OF THE HIGHEST ELEVATIONS IN STELLENBOSCH (UP TO 530M) ON THE SOUTH EASTERLY SIDE OF<br />
SIMONSBERG MOUNTAIN - THE ALTITUDE AND RICH RED SOILS ARE PERFECTLY SUITED TO PREMIUM QUALITY CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
tapestry of excellence unfolds throughout its various wards, from the high slopes of the<br />
A Simonsberg and Helderberg Mountains to Bottelary, Banghoek and Polkadraai. Also<br />
marketed as “The other great Cabernet region,” Gilbert & Gaillard’s recent tasting of Stellenbosch<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon aptly showcased an impressive collection of wines receiving 90+<br />
scores out of 100. These accolades underscore the undeniable quality and artistry synonymous<br />
with Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon. While generational cellars continue to produce<br />
gems, younger producers are also achieving recognition. Boutique winery Deux Frères in<br />
the Simonsberg ward exemplified this trend with their top score of 96 for their 2020 Tribute<br />
Bordeaux blend, followed by their 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon with 95 points. Since its inception<br />
in 2008, this remarkable venture has grown significantly, offering visitors the opportunity<br />
to stay in one of their Villas and be immersed in the rich oenophilic culture of the region.<br />
STELLENBOSCH CABERNET SAUVIGNON:<br />
A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE<br />
In the world of Cabernet Sauvignon, the distinction between the Old and New World is<br />
gradually fading, and Stellenbosch stands proudly alongside other renowned wine regions<br />
like Bordeaux, Napa/Sonoma, Mendoza, Margaret River, and beyond. While celebrated for<br />
exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon from the prestigious left bank, Bordeaux grapples with<br />
formidable challenges - its capricious climate frequently depriving the variety of the sunshine<br />
it seeks. Although Bordeaux’s weather during the Rugby World Cup might have defied this<br />
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DE TRAFFORD SITS AT 380M<br />
ELEVATION, NESTLED BETWEEN<br />
THE STELLENBOSCH AND<br />
HELDERBERG MOUNTAINS, AT<br />
THE END OF BLAAUWKLIP ROAD,<br />
BRIDGING STELLENBOSCH AND<br />
SOMERSET WEST<br />
METICULOUS CANOPY<br />
MANAGEMENT IS CRUCIAL<br />
FOR CABERNET SAUVIGNON, A<br />
VIGOROUS VARIETY, TO ACHIEVE<br />
THE IDEAL DAPPLED SUNLIGHT<br />
ON GRAPE BUNCHES WHILE<br />
PREVENTING EXCESSIVE GROWTH<br />
trend, stringent regulatory constraints tend to inhibit creative expressions, providing discernible<br />
advantages to Cabernet powerhouses in regions such as Stellenbosch and Napa.<br />
David Trafford, a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild who crafts his Cabernet magic on the eastern<br />
slopes of the Helderberg Mountain, attributes the region’s success to ancient soils, particularly the<br />
iron-rich clay component that imparts mid-palate flesh and a perfect balance of power and elegance.<br />
“Stellenbosch Cabernet gracefully straddles the line between the Old and New World, offering a<br />
Bordelais-like structure, a little riper fruit notes, juicy ripe tannins, and good but hidden acidity.<br />
Instead of the gravelly seashell aspects of the Medoc, Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon has this<br />
distinctive herbal, fynbos quality.”<br />
The pursuit of quality drives winemakers like Trafford, who, with an architectural background,<br />
prioritizes content over style.<br />
“Style should result from your context and your interpretation thereof. After a few years of working<br />
with a vineyard, you realize that a style is emerging, and wines are rated with quality in mind and<br />
the fashion of style. It is difficult to remain content-focused and not become style-distracted.”<br />
THE TERROIR OF STELLENBOSCH:<br />
A KEY INGREDIENT IN CABERNET SAUVIGNON’S SUCCESS<br />
Trafford adds that one of the critical factors in producing outstanding Stellenbosch Cabernet is<br />
harnessing the abundant South African sunshine while avoiding overly jammy flavours during the<br />
grapes’ long ripening period.<br />
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DAVID TRAFFORD IS THE OWNER AND WINEMAKER AT DE TRAFFORD<br />
WINERY, SITUATED ON THE MONT FLEUR FARM AT THE TOP OF A<br />
DRAMATIC VALLEY ABOVE STELLENBOSCH<br />
DIRK VAN ZYL, CELLAR MASTER AT GLENELLY, TAKES PRIDE IN HOW<br />
STELLENBOSCH PRODUCERS ARE GAINING GLOBAL RECOGNITION,<br />
ALONGSIDE RENOWNED REGIONS LIKE BORDEAUX AND NAPA<br />
“It requires a delicate balance of soil moisture and precise canopy management. Stellenbosch’s<br />
advantage over many European and First World wine regions lies in its access to vineyard labour,<br />
enabling meticulous vineyard work needed for top-quality wines.”<br />
At Glenelly, under the impressive stewardship of Madame May de Lencquesaing, the winery has<br />
seamlessly blended its Bordeaux legacy with South African terroir. Cellar master Dirk van Zyl<br />
emphasizes their commitment to crafting wines that combine Old World restraint with New<br />
World vibrancy, drawing inspiration from Stellenbosch’s coastal proximity.<br />
Each block on Glenelly contributes distinct expressions, exemplified by the deserving 95 points<br />
awarded to their Lady May 2017.<br />
“Glenelly’s structured clay soils provide power; coarser soils produce vibrant fruit expressions<br />
with gentler tannins. Parcel-by-parcel fermentation allows for exceptional complexity, showcasing<br />
the potential of Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon.”<br />
In the Helderberg region, Spier’s cellar master, Johan Jordaan, believes that Stellenbosch<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon distinguishes itself with a unique combination of concentration and<br />
elegance.<br />
“This style is reminiscent of European wines but with lower acidity, subtle sweetness, denser<br />
tannins, and concentrated fruit. Regional consistency ensures higher light intensity, allowing<br />
for the breakdown of pyrazines that lead to riper, red fruit profiles. Vineyards situated inland<br />
produce darker fruit expressions with supple tannins,” explains Jordaan. He believes time<br />
remains an essential factor in understanding the complexity of the variety as the beauty of<br />
Stellenbosch Cabernet only shines after 5 to 10 years, revealing more enticing blackcurrant and<br />
blackberry flavours with hints of earthiness and herbal notes adding a savoury edge.<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
BRIDGING THE STYLISTIC GAP<br />
AND GLOBAL PERCEPTION<br />
ACCORDING TO SPIER CELLAR MASTER JOHAN JORDAAN, THE<br />
COMBINATION OF ANCIENT SOILS, ALTITUDE AND OCEAN INFLUENCE<br />
ENSURES GRADUAL RIPENING, CHARACTERIZED BY RED FRUIT, A HERBAL<br />
QUALITY AND SWEET, RIPE TANNINS<br />
The confident strides in refining its unique stylistic<br />
qualities have clearly positioned Stellenbosch<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon as a contender alongside<br />
expensive California and Bordeaux wines. Yet,<br />
there is an ongoing debate about why Stellenbosch<br />
Cabernets don’t command higher prices in the<br />
global market. A winemaker like Trafford notes the<br />
stylistic similarity to the highest-level Bordeaux<br />
wines, characterized by supreme richness and<br />
complexity, setting them apart from wines in the<br />
same price range that tend to be simpler.<br />
Even with noble grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
consistently earning global awards, it is necessary<br />
for wine lovers to physically come to South Africa<br />
and experience the absolute best versions of these<br />
wines in the very environment that is so uniquely<br />
conducive to crafting some of the world’s finest<br />
examples. This is why there’s an active push towards<br />
tourism and robust marketing strategies. These<br />
efforts serve not only to challenge outdated perceptions<br />
but also to create fresh and inviting images<br />
that allow Stellenbosch Cabernet to reap the benefits<br />
of its exceptional quality and the distinctiveness<br />
of its winemaking environment.<br />
As perceptions shift and more wine enthusiasts<br />
and connoisseurs experience South African wines<br />
firsthand, in its pristine wine estate settings mirroring<br />
the attention to detail, the intrinsic value of<br />
these wines becomes increasingly evident, setting<br />
the stage for these wines to command prices that<br />
accurately reflect their excellence and the terroir<br />
from which they originate. The hope is that tasting<br />
Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon evokes memories<br />
of the picturesque Cape landscape, with its intense<br />
blackberry and fynbos nuances weaving complexity<br />
and memorability into each glass.<br />
A JOURNEY THROUGH<br />
STELLENBOSCH TERROIR<br />
For some wineries, the image of South African wine<br />
and Stellenbosch Cabernet has been a commitment<br />
traversing generations.<br />
Alto Wine Estate is an example of such, one of the<br />
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GLENELLY’S COMMITMENT TO<br />
SUSTAINABILITY RUNS DEEP<br />
- FROM INVESTING IN THEIR<br />
COMMUNITY’S WELL-BEING<br />
TO RESPONSIBLE FARMING<br />
PRACTICES AND AN ECO-<br />
FRIENDLY WINERY<br />
SPIER IS RENOWNED FOR ITS<br />
ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE<br />
PRACTICES, AND IT TAKES A TEAM<br />
OF TALENTED WINEMAKERS TO<br />
ENSURE THE COMMITMENT TO<br />
CONSISTENT QUALITY IS UPHELD<br />
BERTHO VAN DER WESTHUIZEN<br />
IS THE FIFTH WINEMAKER<br />
IN THE ESTATE’S CENTURY-<br />
LONG HISTORY. SUCCEEDING<br />
HIS FATHER SCHALK IN<br />
2015, BERTHO CARRIES<br />
FORWARD THE LEGACY WHILE<br />
RESPECTING THE HISTORY THAT<br />
CAME BEFORE HIM<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
oldest red wine producers in South Africa resting on the sunny north-facing slopes<br />
of the Helderberg. Their Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, scoring an impressive 93 points,<br />
benefits from the moderating influence of the nearby ocean and south-easterly<br />
winds. Winemaker Bertho van der Westhuizen credits their deep decomposed<br />
granite soils for providing optimal growing conditions with water retention capabilities,<br />
ensuring deep root systems and resilience against heat waves or drier years.<br />
With more than half the estate planted to Cabernet, this wine has become an institution<br />
in South African households. It is renowned for its powerful elegance and<br />
delicious red and black fruit melange, but with a distinctive hint of cool graphite.<br />
Simonsig is one of the pioneering wineries that founded the Stellenbosch Wine<br />
Route, where the baton has always been handed from father to son.<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard scored Simonsig The Garland 2018 94, which warmed the heart<br />
of Stellenbosch stalwart Johan Malan, now joined by his son Michael in the cellar.<br />
“It was always a big dream to make a Cabernet Sauvignon from the slopes of the<br />
Simonsberg and fruit growing on the farm that belonged to my grandfather - the<br />
previous van Niekerk generation and where my mother grew up,” he shares proudly.<br />
“I bought the grapes from my cousins, thrilled that I could finally make a wine from<br />
the vineyards where my grandfather walked, completing a circle with a profoundly<br />
elegant wine.”<br />
And he can be proud as the wine exudes that profound quality he eagerly wanted<br />
to capture - opaque and almost black in the centre, quintessentially Simonsberg.<br />
BERTHO VAN DER WESTHUIZEN IN HIS CELLAR<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
GRAPE<br />
CRAFTING EXCELLENCE<br />
THROUGH INNOVATION<br />
JOHAN AND MICHAEL MALAN EPITOMIZE GENERATIONAL EXCELLENCE THROUGH THEIR<br />
UNWAVERING EFFORTS TO CRAFT EXCEPTIONAL WINES EACH YEAR<br />
Looking at the past decade of crafting Stellenbosch<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, innovation is often a return<br />
to forgotten techniques, believes David Finlayson<br />
(CWG member). He emphasizes the importance<br />
of using technology to reduce undesirable green<br />
aspects and focuses on the dark berry flavours that<br />
define Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
His deep understanding of each ward led to his<br />
award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, which<br />
recently received the «Best Cabernet in the World»<br />
trophy at the Concours International de Cabernet<br />
in 2022.<br />
“My family has been making and bottling Stellenbosch<br />
Cabernet since the 1960s on Montagne (today<br />
Hartenberg) and the 1980s at Blaauwklippen (where<br />
I grew up). It has been a lifelong goal to develop<br />
my own property at Edgebaston. I’ve grown to<br />
understand what each ward in Stellenbosch brings<br />
to make blends that reflect an all-encompassing<br />
Stellenbosch flavour and style. So, I have achieved a<br />
pinnacle award for myself and Stellenbosch. Receiving<br />
Double Gold from Gilbert & Gaillard further<br />
entrenches the understanding that the Stellenbosch<br />
region produces Cabernet Sauvignon of a worldclass<br />
standard.”<br />
Finlayson reveals the intricate tapestry of how the<br />
Stellenbosch wards contribute to crafting a hallmark<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon: Simonsberg provides<br />
fruit that adds a robust, tannic, and muscular<br />
character, while Helderberg brings a delicate,<br />
floral, and ethereal quality with a burst of fruity<br />
notes. Meanwhile, Vlottenberg and Lynedoch<br />
impart intriguing tea leaf nuances along with<br />
the rich, aromatic cedar and cigar box flavours.<br />
He concludes that this mosaic of terroirs within<br />
Stellenbosch are the “colours” to paint a distinctive<br />
and memorable Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
Further up the Helderberg slopes lies Keermont<br />
Vineyards, tucked away in its own remarkable<br />
terroir, where winemaker Alex Starry, one of the<br />
youngest members of the CWG, employs low-intervention<br />
winemaking techniques.<br />
Starry explains: “We pick the grapes on the exact<br />
day when the sugar and acid balance is perfect.<br />
DAVID FINLAYSON IS A THIRD-GENERATION GRAPE GROWER AND<br />
VINTNER BORN AND RAISED IN STELLENBOSCH, WHO TRANSFORMED<br />
THE 30-HECTARE EDGEBASTON VINEYARD AS IT’S KNOWN TODAY<br />
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ALEX STARRY IN KEERMONT VINEYARDS<br />
MARK LE ROUX, COO AND CELLARMASTER AT WATERFORD, REFLECTS ON A 25-YEAR<br />
JOURNEY THAT HAS REVEALED THE REMARKABLE EVOLUTION OF CABERNET<br />
Methods in the cellar include gentle grape handling, no crushing or pumping, and we don’t<br />
add extraction enzymes. We only do one or two soft punch downs daily and prefer a long,<br />
slow maceration, allowing wild yeast to bring out complex flavours that express the terroir.<br />
Bottling is done by hand with minimal filtration, followed by maturation just short of two<br />
years in seasoned French oak barriques.”<br />
Keermont’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 earned 92 points - a seamless and sophisticated wine<br />
worthy of praise in its delicate expression of terroir.<br />
A COMMITMENT TO SUSTAINABILITY<br />
Waterford, situated in the Blaauwklippen Valley, has focused on Cabernet Sauvignon for<br />
25 years, committed to non-manipulative winemaking and sustainable farming practices.<br />
Mark Le Roux, COO and cellar master, emphasizes their dedication to reflecting the essence<br />
of place through their wines: “Waterford’s sustainable practices, including regenerative<br />
farming, wastewater management, and organic practices, have earned us the Integrity &<br />
Sustainability Seal for all our wines.”<br />
Le Roux eloquently describes the journey of a fine Cabernet Sauvignon, noting its evolution<br />
from vibrant youth to a gracefully ageing wine with elegant, fine-textured flavours.<br />
“Cabernet Sauvignon is a long journey. The fruit is fresh in its youth, the palate elegant<br />
with lively tannins balanced by natural acidity. Around five years of age, the wine evolves<br />
as tannins and acidity mature, and aromatics develop. After 15 years, it enters a graceful<br />
second ageing phase, with tannins softening, leading to an elegant, fine-textured palate<br />
and refined flavours. When making Cabernets, oak is crucial. Too much oak creates a dry,<br />
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ERNIE ELS WINES PLACES A SIGNIFICANT EMPHASIS ON CABERNET<br />
SAUVIGNON UNDER THE EXPERT GUIDANCE OF WINEMAKER LOUIS STRYDOM<br />
STUART BOTHA, WINEMAKER AT TOKARA, CRAFTED THE TOKARA RESERVE<br />
2020, SCORING AN IMPRESSIVE 95 POINTS FROM GILBERT & GAILLARD<br />
dusty aftertaste. Many winemakers use excessive oak to enhance youthful richness, which<br />
results in bitterness with age. This journey culminates in wines that remain excellent even after<br />
two decades.”<br />
CABERNET SAUVIGNON’S STELLENBOSCH PROMISE<br />
Among more stellar wineries that excelled in the Gilbert & Gaillard tasting, including Kanonkop,<br />
Asara, Bartinney, Peter Falke, Stellenbosch Hills, Stark Conde, Kaapzicht, and more, their<br />
consistent quality yielded international acclaim. Their wines are also perched on a phenomenal<br />
tourism model, strengthened by Stellenbosch Cabernet, that lures visitors to experience the<br />
wines at their cellar door. Ernie Els, a leading proponent of wine tourism and Stellenbosch as a<br />
Cabernet destination, highlights the region’s ability to produce premium Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
and enjoy it in an elegant environment.<br />
“From Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé to Bordeaux-style blends, we employ gentle extraction techniques<br />
to express the region’s exceptional ability to produce premium Cabernet Sauvignon (their<br />
2018 vintage scoring an impressive 95 points). The best possible expression of our unique terroir<br />
remains the underlying message and experience we want to leave with our guests,” says cellar<br />
master Louis Strydom.<br />
As we ascend the picturesque Helshoogte, Tokara and Thelema’s cellar doors further celebrate<br />
Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon while embracing the region’s rich wine, food, and art culture.<br />
Tokara’s mantra: “We make wine that moves mountains,” reflects their commitment to crafting<br />
exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon - as the 95 score for their Tokara Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
2020 attests, taking another leap for Stellenbosch’s enduring legacy as a world-class destination.<br />
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HOW LEBANESE TERROIR<br />
AND WINERIES ARE EXPRESSIONS<br />
OF AN ANCIENT LAND<br />
BY HADY HAYDAMOUS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES -<br />
HADY HAYDAMOUS - MUSEO NACIO-<br />
NAL DE ARQUEOLOGÍA SUBACUÁTICA<br />
The story of Lebanese wine can be traced back around 7,000 years. There is<br />
ample evidence of wine being produced in the time of the Phoenicians, who were<br />
excellent mariners and would transport their wines in clay amphorae to every<br />
country their boats could reach. But far from resting on its ancient laurels, the<br />
present-day Lebanese wine industry is a story of passion, ingenuity, resilience and<br />
craftsmanship.<br />
HARVESTING AT CHATEAU FAKRA<br />
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LEBANON<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
AMPHORAS USED BY THE PHOENICIANS TO TRANSPORT THEIR WINES<br />
In Antiquity, Lebanon was home to several vibrant cities. Beirut,<br />
Baalbek, Byblos, Tyre, Kefraya and Saghbine still contain widespread<br />
evidence of highly evolved civilizations that embraced the arts, viticulture,<br />
law, music and mosaic, to name a few. The Temple of Bacchus built<br />
by the Romans as a tribute to the God of wine and pleasure in Baalbek<br />
stands today as a reminder of the immense history of viticulture and<br />
cultural intersections in the country.<br />
There was a sense of magic when the journey of discovery of Lebanese<br />
wineries and wines started. The magic stems not only from witnessing<br />
the resilience and ingenuity of all the talented people crafting their wines<br />
but also from the discovery of the bountiful Lebanese terroir from the<br />
North to the South of the country. Despite the dire economic situation,<br />
the modern Lebanese wine scene has never been more vibrant. Lebanese<br />
wineries are showing exceptional courage and resilience in the face of<br />
adversity. Although each winery has its own identity, uniqueness,<br />
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55
LEBANON<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
products and wines, the two things they all have in<br />
common are their love of their terroir and the passion<br />
they showcase while producing and communicating<br />
about their wines. This is their story.<br />
THE WOMAN WHO INSPIRED A<br />
GENERATION<br />
THE TEMPLE OF BACCHUS<br />
THE BEKAA VALLEY<br />
Domaine Wardy is nestled in the heart of the city of<br />
Zahlé. Zahlé is also known as the “bride of the Bekaa”<br />
and “Dar el Salam” or the home of peace. It is a gem<br />
in the Bekaa region and is renowned for its wine and<br />
arak production.<br />
The Bekaa Valley is currently the largest wine region<br />
in Lebanon. It is 120 km long and 16 km wide with an<br />
elevation ranging from 950m-1,600m above sea level.<br />
It is a very fertile region situated about 30 kilometers<br />
east of Beirut, lying between Mount Lebanon to the<br />
West and the Anti-Lebanon Mountains to the East.<br />
The valley’s climate is often wet and snowy during<br />
winter with 600-700 mm of rainfall per year. In<br />
summer, it is dry and warm with a diurnal shift of 15<br />
degrees Centigrade.<br />
This is a family-owned winery with a long experience<br />
of producing wines and arak, whose roots date back<br />
to 1881. Wardy (Rose) Mousallem, the great grandmother<br />
of the current generation of the Wardy family,<br />
is thought to have lived during the late 18th or early<br />
19th century. Wardy’s husband, a freedom fighter<br />
opposing the Ottoman Empire, was ambushed<br />
and killed leaving a young widow alone with their<br />
three children. Wardy became an inspiration and an<br />
astounding example of strength, resilience and hope.<br />
She assumed her role by taking care of their land and<br />
vineyards. She was so exceptional that her name<br />
became a symbol of pride and transcended every<br />
element: her children were Wardy’s children, her<br />
orchards became Wardy’s orchards, their vineyards<br />
became Wardy’s vineyards.<br />
Nowadays, and since 1996, Khalil, Sami, Rima and<br />
Rida Wardy have total ownership of the holding<br />
company, Solifed (Societe Libanaise de Fermentation<br />
et Distillation), making it a wholly owned<br />
family business producing the finest wines, araks<br />
and spirits. The Wardys’ knowledge of the land, the<br />
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LEBANON<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
vines, winemaking techniques and their passion<br />
have enabled them to provide an everlasting sensation<br />
in every wine bottle they’ve produced.<br />
The first wine released under the Domaine’s name<br />
was in 1997. It was Château Les Cèdres, an exquisite<br />
red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Syrah (30%),<br />
and Merlot (20%) sourced from vines planted in the<br />
North of the Bekaa and in Zahlé on limestone and<br />
gravel soils.<br />
Since then, their line-up has substantially expanded<br />
and is considered today as one of the most comprehensive<br />
in the market with 10 single varietals and<br />
7 blends of wine in addition to Gantous and Abou<br />
Raad Arak, Arak Wardy, Altere Vodka and Verjuice.<br />
DOMAINE WARDY<br />
FOR THE LOVE OF WINE<br />
CHATEAU HERITAGE IS IN A HISTORIC SCHOOL BUILT IN 1927<br />
Boasting a long-standing lineage involved in Arak<br />
production, dating back to the 19 th Century, Chateau<br />
Heritage has been producing wine since 1997 from<br />
its 65-hectare estate using traditional and modern<br />
techniques. It crafts some of the most approachable,<br />
elegant and finest wines in the market. This is a<br />
beautiful winery cocooned in a historic building<br />
in the village of Kab Elias in the Bekaa. It was<br />
constructed in 1927, used as a school and suffered<br />
considerable damage during the war years. It has<br />
been renovated, maintaining its baroque style and<br />
unique architectural identity. This is probably one of<br />
the reasons why it has been voted for three consecutive<br />
years (2019, 2020 and 2021) as one of the 50<br />
best wineries on the planet by the ‘World’s Best<br />
Vineyards’.<br />
Creating a winery in an old school has numerous<br />
challenges, namely the creation of a convenient<br />
workflow and process to optimize limitations in<br />
space. Not only were stainless steel tanks hand<br />
built based on the existing spatial constrictions, but<br />
also ingenious solutions were tailored to transport<br />
the wine from floor to floor and space to space to<br />
preserve quality.<br />
Visiting the winery and meeting with Wissam, Dr.<br />
Dargham and Hussam Touma, the winery’s owners,<br />
you can feel their sense of appreciation of the terroir<br />
and passion towards their wines. Dr. Dargham<br />
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57
DR. DARGHAM TOUMA,<br />
WINEMAKER<br />
AND CO-OWNER AT<br />
CHATEAU HERITAGE<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
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LEBANON<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
Touma, a fourth-generation winemaker who holds<br />
a PhD. in Food Sciences, underscores the importance<br />
of highlighting the Bekaa’s unique attributes to<br />
create vibrant, balanced wines that are appreciated<br />
by a global clientele.<br />
Their long winemaking legacy is clearly noticeable in<br />
their exceptional cellar where oak barrels age some<br />
phenomenal wines and hundreds of ancient bottles<br />
adorn the baroque-looking space.<br />
The ‘Family Reserve’ was the first label to be released<br />
in 1997. The red blend was composed of the best<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah parcels and grapes,<br />
carefully vinified and aged in oak barrels. Since<br />
then, their international-award winning line-up<br />
has grown to include 10 blends and 4 single varietals.<br />
CHATEAU KEFRAYA’S VINEYARDS<br />
FABRICE GIBERTEAU, TECHNICAL DIRECTOR AND<br />
WINEMAKER AT CHATEAU KEFRAYA<br />
THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION<br />
Chateau Kefraya is the brainchild of founder and<br />
visionary Michel de Bustros, who in 1946 started<br />
building the Chateau on an artificial hill used by the<br />
Romans to overlook the movement of their troops.<br />
He went to great lengths to plant the hills and landscape<br />
of Kefraya. The first vines were planted in 1951<br />
and in 1979. At the height of the Lebanese Civil War<br />
(1975 – 1990), Chateau Kefraya was producing wines<br />
from its own grapes grown in its own vineyards and<br />
vinted in its own cellars. These balanced wines are<br />
enjoyed by a global audience.<br />
During the 1980s, Chateau Kefraya started exporting<br />
to France and won its first international medals in<br />
1982 and 1983 for its ‘Les Coteaux de Kefraya’. Today,<br />
Chateau Kefraya is present in over 40 countries<br />
around the world. The range now includes 16 blends<br />
and 16 single varietals of red, white, and rosé wines.<br />
The winery is very much intertwined with art,<br />
cuisine, wine, viticulture, and music. This intersection<br />
of highly evocative experiences creates similarly<br />
evocative wines at every touchpoint. It is no wonder<br />
Chateau Kefraya was voted as one of the Top 50 Best<br />
Wineries in the World by the ‘World’s Best Vineyards’<br />
in 2023.<br />
Fabrice Giberteau, the winery’s technical director<br />
and winemaker, immerses you in enchanting details<br />
about terroir and the importance of preserving<br />
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ZIAD AMMAR, THE OWNER (CENTER),<br />
RABIH SADAKA, THE WINEMAKER<br />
(LEFT), AND NAJIB MOUTRAN,<br />
THE MARKETING MANAGER (RIGHT)<br />
IN FRONT OF THE NEW HOME OF<br />
CHATEAU TROIS COLLINES<br />
indigenous grapes and vines. The philosophy here is all about pursuing the never-ending<br />
quest to plant quality vineyards with low yields and minimal intervention with the ability<br />
to produce the finest expressions of the fruit.<br />
On 1 May 2023, Guiberteau was awarded the ‘Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite Agricole<br />
Français’, by Philippe Faure-Brac, 1992 World’s Best Sommelier. This recognition honors<br />
his attachment to the terroir and efforts to build bridges between East and West.<br />
A MEDITERRANEAN FEEL<br />
Chateau Trois Collines is an inspirational story. Its founder, mechanical engineer and<br />
businessman, Ziad Ammar, started planting his first vineyards in 2011 in Ain Bourdai facing<br />
the Temple of Jupiter and the Temple of Bacchus in Baalbek at an elevation of 1,600m above<br />
sea level. The land still contains evidence of viticulture dating back to Phoenician times.<br />
The new Chateau in Dahr Al Baydar is marvelous to experience. Inspired by Mediterranean<br />
architecture, it is visible from the main road on the mountain top overlooking both the<br />
Bekaa region and the coast.<br />
Vines were initially planted over 45 hectares on the three main hills, or Trois Collines in<br />
French. Using sustainable irrigation powered by solar energy, 125 hectares of stupendous<br />
vineyards now paint the hillside with an evergreen carpet of a sumptuous array of vines.<br />
The vineyards are also organically certified.<br />
Production started in 2016 and since then a range of 5 blends and 13 single varietals of red,<br />
white, and rosé organic wines from its own vineyards has been released. The winemaker<br />
Rabih Sadaka creates unique renditions of wine that beautifully showcase the quality of<br />
the terroir. He oversees every aspect of the winemaking process with utmost care, using<br />
a holistic quality control system to produce a refined, elegant and unique expression of a<br />
Mediterranean wine.<br />
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JEAN TANNOURI, THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT CHATEAU KA, IN THE WINERY<br />
FOLLOW YOUR DREAMS<br />
Kassatly Chtaura was founded in 1974 by CEO and winemaker Akram Kassatly, who first introduced<br />
bottled Jallab for home-preparation into the market. After a resounding success with these concentrated<br />
syrups, the company introduced a range of liqueurs in the 1980s, and fruit juices, jams and<br />
fruit smoothies in the 1990s. Going from one success story to another, the product portfolio also<br />
includes Buzz, a vodka mix, and Freez, a non-alcoholic carbonated fruit beverage.<br />
Attempting to produce wine back in 1974 was extremely dangerous due to the Lebanese Civil War, but<br />
in 2005 Kassatly realized his dream when the first Chateau Ka bottle was released from vines planted<br />
on its own 65 hectares of land. The main varietals in Chateau Ka’s range include Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Merlot and Syrah for the reds and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat and Viognier for the whites.<br />
A conversation with winemaker Jean Tannouri details the carefully planned process from the moment<br />
the vines are hand-harvested to storage of the wines after bottling. At Chateau Ka, wine is treated<br />
with great care and respect. Tannouri believes his wines are the ultimate expression of their terroir.<br />
They are a labor of love, a reflection of a passion for the land and a vehicle for cultural exchange.<br />
The wines have won international medals and awards. The product range includes 6 blends of red,<br />
white and rosé wines.<br />
SINCE 1857<br />
Chateau Ksara is the oldest winery in the Middle East. It was founded in 1857 in Ksara in the Bekaa<br />
by Jesuit priests, who inherited and farmed a 25-hectare plot of land. Recognizing the quality of<br />
the terroir, they decided to grow grapes for winemaking, thereby blazing the trail for the modern<br />
Lebanese wine industry.<br />
In 1973, recognizing its importance and potential, a consortium acquired Chateau Ksara. Since<br />
then, it has consistently produced high quality wines that mirror the characteristics of their terroir.<br />
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LEBANON<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
CHATEAU KSARA<br />
The Roman Tunnels underneath the chateau were<br />
discovered when priests noticed that their chicken<br />
went missing and followed a fox to its hideout. They<br />
discovered tunnels of around 2 km long at a depth<br />
of between 8-12m. The same tunnels served as a safe<br />
house during WW1. People in the tunnels enlarged<br />
their width which remains the same today. The<br />
Roman Tunnels are ideal for storage as the temperature<br />
is constantly between 10-12 °C with high humidity<br />
that reaches 80%.<br />
The Observatory at Chateau Ksara, the first of its<br />
kind in the Middle East, was used by the Jesuits to<br />
record rainfall and seismic activity. This landmark<br />
of the Bekaa was to become one of Ksara’s flagship<br />
wines, the Blanc de l’Observatoire. Today, Chateau<br />
Ksara’s range of internationally award-winning<br />
wines includes 11 blends and 4 single varietals of red,<br />
white and rosé wines.<br />
KISSED BY THE SUN<br />
GABRIEL RIVERO, WINEMAKER (CENTER), AURELIE THOROS, MARKETING MANAGER (RIGHT),<br />
AND GENERAL MANAGER TALAL MADI (LEFT) IN FRONT OF IXSIR WINERY’S ENTRANCE<br />
Known to many across the world as the potion of<br />
youth and love, Ixsir is a Lebanese winery founded in<br />
2008 and located in the village of Basbina, Batroun,<br />
in Northern Lebanon. The winery is set in a refurbished<br />
and renovated traditional, 17th-century<br />
Lebanese house that is as charming as the natural<br />
surroundings, vineyards, trees and landscaped decor.<br />
Walking into the winery prompts a sense of awe, with<br />
its white stones and traditional stone arches. One can<br />
overlook the stairs to the cellar to see the IXSIR logo<br />
carefully crafted in the floor.<br />
The high-ceiling, reinforced concrete cellar entrance<br />
with its minimal lighting converges towards the<br />
door leading into the winery. The hall is used as an<br />
art gallery where informative videos about IXSIR are<br />
shown.<br />
The winery’s architecture has won several awards<br />
including the International Architizer and A+ award.<br />
IXSIR’s goal is to showcase Lebanon’s outstanding<br />
terroirs, some of which have been lost to time. The<br />
vineyards, which are dispersed across 120 hectares<br />
over the mountains of Lebanon on calcareousclay<br />
and limestone soils, from Batroun to Jezzine,<br />
are farmed sustainably and take advantage of the<br />
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THE CELLAR AT IXSIR<br />
region’s specific microclimates. The Ainata vineyard is located at an elevation of 1,800 meters above sea level<br />
and is considered to be the highest vineyard in the Northern Hemisphere.<br />
Gabriel Rivero, the winemaker, stresses how important it is to communicate about the beauty of the micro<br />
terroirs scattered across the country from North to South. These locations were carefully chosen due to their<br />
perfect exposure to sunlight, the quality of soil, elevation and climate. They were chosen to produce excellent<br />
grapes yielding great wines. Rivero’s quest to craft wines that appeal to a global audience is never ending. His<br />
extensive knowledge and attention to detail are evident. The wines he creates capture the uniqueness of these<br />
micro terroirs. Ixsir’s internationally award-winning wine range spans 9 blends of red, white and rosé wines.<br />
FROM ARGENTINA WITH WINE<br />
Chateau Fakra is situated in Kesrouan, Mount Lebanon’s Kfardebian valley. Astarte (Venus) and Bacchus<br />
(Dionysus), the gods of wine and love, have been worshipped here since ancient times. It is one of the most<br />
visited places in Lebanon and was called after the Roman Temples of Fakra.<br />
When owner Dr. Carlos Guillermo Adem returned from Argentina and founded the winery in 1985, he strived<br />
to enter the market with high standards and outstanding products. Exquisite vineyards, optimal growing<br />
conditions, a blend of terroirs in the Bekaa Valley and Mount Lebanon, expert vineyard management and<br />
maturation in French and American oak barrels have birthed superior wines.<br />
To ramp up recognition internationally, Chateau Fakra competes in international events and has been<br />
awarded more than 100 medals attesting to the quality of its wines. Its product range today includes 6 blends<br />
and one single varietal red, white and rosé wines.<br />
PURE TERROIR EXPRESSION<br />
The wine scene in Lebanon is rich and diverse. With a total production capacity of around 10 million bottles<br />
a year, Lebanese wineries have cemented their reputation for producing quality, elegant and refined wines.<br />
Whether they hail from the Bekaa Valley, Northern Lebanon, or any other wine region, and are blends or single<br />
varietals, Lebanese wines are a labor of love and passion, and a truly distinctive expression of their terroir.<br />
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MERCIER VINE NURSERY,<br />
WHERE INNOVATION COMES<br />
SECOND NATURE<br />
BY SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: GILBERT & GAILLARD –<br />
MERCIER GROUP<br />
We return to Vix, in the Vendée, to continue our conversation with Miguel Mercier.<br />
The Mercier group of vine nurseries boasts 130 years’ experience and has a made<br />
a pledge to focus on research into resistant grape varieties. This is a long process,<br />
and one that comes with very strict legal requirements, but it probably holds the<br />
future of the wine industry, not just in France but also globally. We shed some light<br />
on the issue.<br />
MIGUEL MERCIER IN THE EXPERIMENTAL VINEYARDS THAT ARE HOME TO THE NATHY RESISTANT VARIETIES, SOME OF WHICH ARE DESIGNED TO<br />
REPLACE TRADITIONAL VINES<br />
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DISCOVERY<br />
NURSERY<br />
VARIETIES BEING TRIALLED SHOW SUBSTANTIAL RESISTANCE TO POWDERY AND DOWNY MILDEW BUT ALSO BLACK ROT<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard: What is the current state of research and legislation<br />
on resistant grape varieties?<br />
Miguel Mercier: In some ways, resistant grape varieties are the ‘nephews’ of the hybrids<br />
of the turn of the century. Their major problem was the quality of their aromas and<br />
flavours in comparison to vitis vinifera*. This was the main focus of research and it<br />
was aimed at upgrading quality in the vineyards. Now we are familiar with the vine’s<br />
genome and have the ability to detect, for example, the criteria for resistance to downy<br />
and powdery mildew. Therefore, we can identify whether the pips have recovered the<br />
desired characteristics from the first seedling. This technique is known as natural<br />
oriented or assisted hybridisation. It expedites the process and produces both a naturally<br />
more resistant variety and one that most closely resembles the qualities of the<br />
original vine.<br />
G&G: What is the process leading to approval of a resistant grape variety?<br />
M.M.: It is a very long process and can take at least five or six years. It begins with<br />
registration for DUS (Distinctiveness, Uniformity and Stability) research. From then<br />
on, the variety can be propagated but not marketed. It has to be incorporated into<br />
two experimentation plantings – one in a northern region, the other in a southern<br />
region – for a three-year period. This is known as the VCUS protocol, or Value for<br />
Cultivation, Use and Sustainability. Depending on the results, a board at the CTPS or<br />
Permanent Technical Committee for Plant Breeding approves the variety if it matches<br />
*vitis vinifera is the original variety of wild vine<br />
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DISCOVERY<br />
NURSERY<br />
the desired standards. It is a long-winded process but<br />
it guarantees real improvements for the winegrowers<br />
that become practitioners of these new varieties.<br />
G&G: Do you already have certified varieties<br />
that can be used?<br />
CALARDIS BLANC IS ONE OF THE VARIETIES BEING TRIALLED IN THE NATHY PROGRAMME<br />
M.M. We do and the situation is changing fast. To<br />
date, for whites we have Nathy-Sauvignac produced<br />
from research carried out in conjunction with a<br />
Swiss grape breeder Valentin Blattner, who is also<br />
a winegrower. The variety is similar to Sauvignon<br />
blanc, with aromatic, thiol-like notes and substantial<br />
resistance to powdery and downy mildew. Another<br />
noteworthy quality is that it is not very susceptible to<br />
black rot. Generally speaking, it reduces the number<br />
of sprays to two – one before flowering and one after.<br />
We also have another white and a red variety which<br />
are still at the VCUS stage. As I said, the situation is<br />
changing fast – we have registered 22 new varieties!<br />
We are very hopeful that among them are some real<br />
gems that will prove to be extremely successful.<br />
In addition to our own production, there is a<br />
nationwide programme managed by the French Vine<br />
Institute (IFV) which is called ResDur (for sustainable<br />
resistance). The programme has already led to several<br />
resistant varieties – both red and white – being<br />
approved. The new varieties are often used in blends<br />
but some winegrowers are trialling them as single<br />
varietals. Watch this space!<br />
AN OCEAN OF YOUNG VINES ALL-SET TO HEAD OFF ON THEIR JOURNEY FOR A NEW<br />
DESTINATION<br />
G&G: Going back to traditional plant material,<br />
are there ways of making these varieties<br />
more resistant too, particularly faced with<br />
climate change?<br />
M.M.: The most important component is the<br />
rootstock. This is what we have to focus on to drive<br />
change. In Bordeaux, for instance, where the 3309<br />
is very widely used, sometimes it is now being<br />
replaced by the Gravesac or even the R110 which is<br />
more drought-resistant. Other old rootstock, some<br />
of which virtually became obsolete, are also being<br />
studied again to gauge their qualities in the current<br />
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CREATED BY MIGUEL’S DAD,<br />
JEAN-PIERRE, THE NOVATECH<br />
LABORATORY ALLOWS THE PRESENT-<br />
DAY MERCIER GROUP TO STAND AT THE<br />
CUTTING EDGE OF TECHNOLOGY<br />
EACH ROW OF VINES IN THIS<br />
CUTTING-EDGE PROGRAMME<br />
IS IDENTIFIED WITH THE<br />
UTMOST PRECISION<br />
context. In conservation centres, vines which may have been abandoned because they did<br />
not have the requisite qualities at the time but now do – they may produce lower alcohol<br />
levels for instance – are being sought out. These populations contain huge genetic diversity<br />
which has not necessarily been thoroughly scrutinised. This is a long-winded process<br />
but it could pay off.<br />
G&G: One major issue with planting involves the roots – should they be long<br />
or short? What is the right option?<br />
M.M.: I’d have a tendency to answer – they’re both right! The truth is that the discussion<br />
over the type of roots should not overshadow the vital issue of soil preparation. The quality<br />
of the plant is important but no more so than the other pivotal component – the soil. It<br />
must be pliable and oxygenated with organic material inputs. Coming back to the roots,<br />
the most important aspect in the equation is the type of planting chosen and allowing<br />
the vines to establish a good root system. In years gone by in Spain, for example, demand<br />
focused on very long roots because they made huge holes and winegrowers wanted vines<br />
to retain their root integrity as much as possible. Now, use of planting machines is very<br />
widespread and with long roots, the machines tend to plant them all on the same side due<br />
to the way they move. So to avoid this, it was decided to shorten the roots. For planting by<br />
hand, using a fork or a spade, the roots are often cut to 1 to 2 cm in France. Gradually, the<br />
norm over the past few years has become 8 cm of roots due to the development of planting<br />
machines. But again, it all depends on the type of planting chosen.<br />
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DISCOVERY<br />
NURSERY<br />
NOVATECH – MERCIER’S INTEGRATED LABORATORY<br />
Novatech is the group’s research and development laboratory. For the past thirty years, the group has invested in this key sector.<br />
Olivier Zekri, the laboratory’s manager, outlines its activities.<br />
O<br />
“ ur department was created by Jean-Pierre<br />
Mercier. Originally, its primary focus was<br />
on diagnosing vineyard pathogens and that is<br />
still our core activity and keeps us busy six or<br />
seven months of the year. Another aspect is<br />
what is known as biological control. The principle<br />
involves incorporating micro-organisms<br />
that are beneficial for the plant and are aimed<br />
at strengthening its natural defence system<br />
against all aggressive pathogens it might<br />
encounter. Lastly, for the past fifteen years we<br />
have been studying what I used to call varietal<br />
innovation involving massal selection which<br />
you spoke about with Miguel.<br />
Also, for the past four or five years, we have<br />
become actively involved in varietal creation and<br />
have been approved as a Private Breeder (Ed. the<br />
only one in France), which now allows us to work<br />
on 980 genotypes, all of them offering resistance<br />
capabilities. Approximately 120 of them undergo<br />
more granular research mainly in terms of<br />
phenology and nano-technologies in the winemaking<br />
process. The aim is mostly to eliminate<br />
the less suitable candidates. Then comes the<br />
registration stage in the catalogue of new varieties<br />
– we now have twenty-four registered. This<br />
is a fairly long process which implies planting<br />
at least 90 vines of each variety in two different<br />
wine regions – in our case, one is here in Vix, the<br />
other is near Montpellier in the South of France.<br />
This does not allow us to conduct large-scale<br />
trials but things are in the process of changing<br />
and INAO itself now permits experiments that<br />
are broader in scope and are managed by winegrowers<br />
themselves via the VIFA programme<br />
(varieties of interest for adaptation purposes).<br />
So, practitioners of these future grape varieties<br />
authorised for PDO and PGI wines can understand<br />
the most basic issues such as the type of<br />
pruning required and yeast to use. This is a great<br />
step forward that will save everyone time.<br />
OLIVIER ZEKRI, DIRECTOR OF THE NOVATECH LABORATORY WHICH MANAGES<br />
RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT WITHIN THE MERCIER GROUP<br />
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ITALY’S NO AND LOW ALCOHOL<br />
PIONEERS<br />
BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF<br />
THE WINERIES<br />
In recent years, ‘low alcohol’ and ‘no alcohol’ wines have become increasingly<br />
popular. The combination of a consumer shift towards a healthier lifestyle and the<br />
growing focus on responsible driving has pushed the wine industry to innovate<br />
and offer lighter alternatives without sacrificing taste and character. The trend is<br />
one that Italian wineries have been keen to tap into.<br />
THE CANELLA WINERY IS STILL RUN BY THE SECOND GENERATION OF THE FAMILY – LORENZO CANELLA, ALESSANDRA, NICOLETTA AND MONICA<br />
CANELLA – AND THE THIRD GENERATION, TOMMASO AND ALVISE CANELLA<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
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SGARZI LUIGI WINERY IS LOCATED<br />
IN CASTEL SAN PIETRO TERME, A<br />
SMALL BUT FLOURISHING TOWN<br />
IN THE PROVINCE OF BOLOGNA,<br />
RENOWNED FOR ITS THERMAL<br />
WATERS AND EXCELLENT FOOD<br />
AND WINE<br />
Italian wineries have responded to this growing demand with technological innovations<br />
that make it possible to produce no alcohol and low alcohol wines without compromising<br />
on quality. This has been demonstrated by use of ‘spinning cone column’ technology which<br />
allows alcohol to be extracted from wine in a delicate way, preserving the aromatic and taste<br />
profiles. The process makes it possible to obtain wines with an alcohol content of less than 0.5%<br />
while preserving typical sensory characteristics. Other dealcoholisation techniques include<br />
nanofiltration, reverse osmosis, osmotic distillation and pervaporation. Alcohol removal by<br />
these techniques can however cause colour changes and losses of desirable volatile aromatic<br />
compounds, which can subsequently affect the sensory quality and consumer acceptability of<br />
the wine, and also lower the microbial stability of the product and shorten its shelf life. This is,<br />
therefore, the real challenge for producers, especially in Italy.<br />
INCOMPATIBLE NATIONAL LEGISLATION<br />
In terms of legislation, with the new CAP, the European Union has given the green light to<br />
the use of the term ‘wine’ to describe no alcohol or low alcohol grape / must-based products,<br />
but in Italy there is currently incompatibility with national regulations where the natural<br />
total alcohol content of a wine cannot be less than 8% alcohol. This means that wines below<br />
this percentage must be classed as ‘alcohol-free wine-based beverage’. It is important that<br />
these are also distinguished from unfermented must, i.e. must that has yet to become wine.<br />
No and low alcohol wines are no longer limited to being just ‘light’ versions of traditional<br />
wines as winemakers are working to create a wide range of styles and varieties to suit a range<br />
of palates. From fruity white wines to more structured reds, it is possible to find options<br />
suitable for different occasions and food pairings. It is important to emphasise, though, that<br />
these products are not meant to replace ‘traditional’ wine, but to be an alternative for those<br />
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THE COMPANY FOUNDED BY<br />
LUIGI IS NOW RUN BY HIS<br />
GRANDSON STEFANO, TOGETHER<br />
WITH HIS WIFE NADIA, NOW<br />
JOINED BY FOURTH-GENERATION<br />
ANNA, LUIGI, LEONARDO AND<br />
FRANCESCA<br />
who cannot and do not want to drink alcohol, and something new for the curious and openminded.<br />
With the increasing supply of no alcohol and low alcohol wines, the importance of clear<br />
and accurate labelling becomes crucial. Consumers must be informed about the amount<br />
of alcohol in the product and its origin to help them make informed decisions and avoid<br />
confusion between the different options available.<br />
No and low alcohol wines are increasingly becoming an integral part of the contemporary<br />
wine scene but are mainly produced by large companies due to the cost of the technology,<br />
production volumes and the understandable reticence of small producers to join the trend.<br />
With technology continuing to improve and the focus on consumer tastes and needs, these<br />
wines are proving that it is possible to indulge in the culture of wine in a responsible and<br />
enjoyable way. The diversity of styles, intriguing flavour profiles and overall satisfying experience<br />
are making these wines an attractive choice for an increasingly broad audience. I asked<br />
some of the pioneers of these types in Italy to share their views on the category.<br />
SGARZI LUIGI WINERY<br />
The historic winery of Castel San Pietro Terme (Bologna) confirms that the Italian market<br />
for low/no alcohol alternatives is taking its first steps, even if it seems less developed than in<br />
other countries, where it is already quite common to find no-low alternatives on supermarket<br />
shelves. The data points to strong growth forecasts over the coming years (+23% average annual<br />
growth rate for 2021-2026), in line with the expectations of many operators, who see great<br />
potential in the market. In Italy, from a labelling perspective, there is unfortunately still a<br />
ban on the production of no/ low alcohol DOC and IGT wines which obviously has a negative<br />
impact on the competitiveness of Italian producers at international level. The controversy,<br />
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ITALY<br />
TREND<br />
and competitive disadvantage of Italian producers, is apparent when looking at the shelves<br />
of foreign supermarkets. Under current Italian law it is not possible to state the name of the<br />
grape variety on the label of a de-alcoholised wine if other ingredients are present, even in<br />
very small quantities.<br />
Cantine Sgarzi Luigi has chosen, also for this reason, to produce beverages whose main<br />
component is de-alcoholised wine produced using Spinning Cone Column (SCC) technology,<br />
with low-temperature vacuum distillation. Careful thought from the company’s technicians<br />
has led to excellent results, both in terms of flavour – recently endorsed by Gilbert & Gaillard<br />
gold medals – and for organoleptic stability with a guaranteed shelf life of at least 5 years.<br />
This is a relatively new product category, benefitting from strong in-house expertise, and it<br />
is garnering rapidly expanding market share both nationally and internationally in France,<br />
Germany, Sweden, Poland, the USA and China.<br />
The products help the company reach out to new consumer audiences – people who do not<br />
drink alcohol for religious or health reasons for example – whilst also aligning with established<br />
consumption trends in terms of lifestyle. To date, the overall market is estimated for the EU<br />
at around 2.5 billion litres and 7.5 billion euros, largely cornered by beer. Wine’s share stands<br />
at just €322 million while spirits and liquors stand at around €168 million. (Areté research<br />
data.) Outside the EU, the largest markets are the USA and China. While the segment still<br />
represents a niche market, generally covering less than 1% of the total, growth in recent years<br />
for this type of product has been remarkable, against a backdrop of stable or declining alcohol<br />
consumption.<br />
Cantine Sgarzi Luigi’s new ZERO SL ZERO and CIAO ZERO products also place strong<br />
emphasis on environmental sustainability with light glass bottles and aluminium cans to<br />
reduce the company’s carbon footprint throughout the production cycle. Both glass and aluminium<br />
are infinitely recyclable materials, while aluminium has a much faster recyclability cycle<br />
and lower C02 consumption during the regeneration phases of the material itself. Sgarzi Luigi<br />
is proud to be able to offer sustainable products.<br />
THE NEW PRODUCTION FACILITIES AT SGARZI LUIGI, COMPLETED IN 2011, WERE BUILT USING<br />
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY NATURAL MATERIALS AND COVERED WITH SOLAR PANELS WHICH<br />
PROVIDE FOR MOST OF ITS ENERGY NEEDS<br />
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ITALY<br />
TREND<br />
BOSCA<br />
SINCE 2009, BOSCA HAS BEEN RUN BY PIA, GIGI AND POLINA, THE SIXTH<br />
GENERATION OF THE FAMILY WHO ARE CEO, CFO AND CMO RESPECTIVELY<br />
Bosca, in Canelli, boasts a history spanning over<br />
190 years, through 6 generations of a family whose<br />
entrepreneurial choices have always leaned towards<br />
innovation and exploring new horizons, without<br />
detracting from its historical heritage. “Non-conformism”<br />
and “inclusiveness” are the values that led to<br />
the creation of low and no alcohol products, which<br />
are part of a sub-brand, ‘It’s B’, stemming from a<br />
combination of experience, innovation and Bosca’s<br />
creativity.<br />
The product line updates the tradition of sparkling<br />
wines, making them the protagonists of a new<br />
drinking experience. The products have a novel<br />
flavour, are immediately enjoyable and accessible<br />
to all, and they reflect the company’s mantra of<br />
“bubbles against the tide”. Italy is still reluctant<br />
to embrace low / no alcohol wines compared to<br />
other foreign markets, including the US and<br />
Central / Northern Europe. In the Italian market,<br />
it is important to raise awareness of the category<br />
through dedicated marketing and communication<br />
campaigns, so as to encourage growth in consumption.<br />
Bosca’s sparkling wine Toselli is naturally<br />
sweet, crisp and balanced and therefore very<br />
versatile. It pairs equally well with special snacks,<br />
dessert or even spicy foods, where the sweetness<br />
of the drink counterbalances the mix of spices. The<br />
ideal alcohol-free beverages for Italians, according<br />
to Bosca, are also ‘mocktails’, a selection of alcohol-free<br />
cocktails which can now be found in every<br />
cocktail bar. Over time, ‘Low Alcohol Greens’ and<br />
‘Sparkletini’ will also make their way into the mocktail<br />
category once buyers become more knowledgeable<br />
and confident.<br />
Bosca’s non-alcoholic sparkling wines are made<br />
from must, produced by soft crushing, kept<br />
constantly at a low temperature and then gently<br />
micro-filtered to prevent fermentation. This process<br />
guarantees a product that is always fresh like Toselli,<br />
and preserves the organoleptic characteristics and<br />
natural sweetness of the grape must. For Bosca, it is<br />
essential to distinguish between low and no alcohol<br />
products both in communications and in market<br />
research because, although statistics always lump<br />
IN ADDITION TO THEIR SPLENDID UNDERGROUND CATHEDRAL CELLARS<br />
(A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE) LOCATED IN CANELLI, BOSCA HAS A<br />
STATE-OF-THE-ART WINERY IN COSTIGLIOLE D’ASTI<br />
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ITALY<br />
TREND<br />
low and no alcohol together, in reality low alcohol products are leading the way.<br />
Finding reliable global statistics both for low alcohol wines and for non-alcoholic<br />
grape/must products is a tall order. For communications and marketing purposes, it<br />
is important to define the individual sub-categories of products, which also include<br />
beers and malt-based products, ciders, hard seltzers, cocktails and grape-based<br />
products.<br />
CANELLA<br />
Luciano Canella’s interest in low-alcohol and freshness goes back a long way, well<br />
before the current trends. It was back in the 1980s, in fact, that the sparkling wine<br />
entrepreneur from the Venetian and Treviso hinterland became interested in<br />
low-alcohol, healthy and low-calorie drinks and introduced a bottled, preservative-free<br />
version of ‘Bellini’, the famous Venetian cocktail.<br />
BROTHERS TOMMASO AND ALVISE CANELLA ARE<br />
THE THIRD GENERATION AT THE CANELLA WINERY<br />
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ITALY<br />
TREND<br />
Bellini is once again the driving force behind the<br />
innovative drink launched by the new generation<br />
of the Canella family, namely Tommaso and Alvise,<br />
who have recently released their zero-alcohol Bellini.<br />
Although the ‘classic’ Bellini is made with three parts<br />
brut sparkling wine, one part white peach juice and<br />
pulp (produced in-house) and a dash of raspberry,<br />
the ‘Zero’ has the same ingredients, but without<br />
the alcohol. This is extracted using the membrane<br />
process to retain the aromatic qualities.<br />
As far as distribution is concerned, the on-trade is<br />
showing a lot of interest. Consumption is obviously<br />
not significant yet, but the product is bound to<br />
take off. Launched less than 6 months ago, it is too<br />
early to make any sales estimates, and the company<br />
is aware that it has to invest time to raise awareness<br />
of something so ‘unconventional’. Foreign<br />
sales vary a lot depending on the market and the<br />
drinking culture in individual countries, as well as<br />
on licences. In the USA and Canada, a number of<br />
states ban alcohol sales in grocery stores, therefore<br />
providing an opportunity for no alcohol alternatives.<br />
Scandinavia to date is probably the most promising<br />
market while the entire Middle East becomes a<br />
strategic market from a cultural perspective.<br />
ANNA SPINATO AND HER SON ROBERTO NOW RUN THE COMPANY WITH AN EYE ON<br />
SUSTAINABILITY AND NEW TRENDS INCLUDING LOW AND NO ALCOHOL BEVERAGES<br />
ANNA SPINETO IS A WINERY FOUNDED IN 1952 BY PIETRO SPINATO, THE FATHER OF THE<br />
CURRENT OWNER ANNA. IT IS LOCATED IN THE VENETO REGION OF PONTE DI PIAVE<br />
ANNA SPINATO<br />
This company in Ponte di Piace (Treviso) which<br />
is renowned for the production of wines such as<br />
Valdobbiadene, Prosecco, Raboso and Malanotte, as<br />
well as international varietals, has decided to focus<br />
on ‘no alcohol’ by resurrecting an historic company<br />
label: Gocce di Luna.<br />
This sparkling non-alcoholic wine is produced<br />
entirely from grape juice grown in organic Italian<br />
vineyards. It is a refreshing drink whose sweet fruity<br />
notes and exuberant bubbles make it a good fit even<br />
for the most demanding consumers. The company<br />
also produces two other non-alcoholic sparkling<br />
wines: ‘Zero’ and ‘Zero Blush’. Spinato agrees that<br />
the Italian market for the products lacks maturity<br />
compared with foreign markets. Hence its export<br />
focus, which has yielded very satisfying results.<br />
Longer term, however, the outlook is positive in Italy<br />
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TODAY, ARIONE IS RUN BY BROTHERS MAURO AND LUCA ARIONE, WHO MANAGE THE TWO FAMILY WINERIES<br />
too, especially for products so closely linked to wellness. This also explains why<br />
it has decided to use grape must, without resorting to de-alcoholisation. Its<br />
main markets currently are Russia, the Middle East and Asia, while demand<br />
is also growing within the EU.<br />
ARIONE<br />
Even the historic (1870) Piedmont family business, which has vineyards in<br />
the fertile regions of the Langhe and Monferrato, has decided to venture<br />
into no and low alcohol wine territory, sensing the growing interest in<br />
the categories. The growth reflects the increasing attention paid by larger<br />
scale Italian producers to global trends. Arione uses grape must processed<br />
with various components, with no de-alcoholisation. The company is also<br />
experimenting with similar solutions in collaboration with another winery.<br />
Again, it is premature to speak of global market share, but the data seems<br />
to be promising. Growth of low and no alcohol wines has reached 30%<br />
in some markets in recent years, with forecasts pointing to an annual<br />
increase of 15%-20% over the next 3-5 years. The company reports that its<br />
products are stocked in some US shops in sections dedicated to no and<br />
low alcohol ranges.<br />
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PERLINO CEO EDOARDO LAUGIERI<br />
PERLINO’S EXPORT DIRECTOR GIUSEPPE BELLOTTI<br />
PERLINO SPA<br />
Perlino SPA has been a major producer of vermouth and sparkling wines<br />
in Asti for more than a century, after it was founded in 1905 in Castello<br />
d’Annone by Giuseppe Perlino.<br />
In the 1930s, after some strategic investments, the historic production of<br />
sparkling wines and vermouths began to increase, becoming a forte of the<br />
company over time.<br />
Vermouth Perlino grew rapidly in the domestic market, as well as internationally,<br />
thanks to its exclusive recipe. It is now considered a staple of the<br />
good, traditional Piedmontese aperitif. The same happened with sparkling<br />
wines: with over 70 years of experience and worldwide presence, Perlino<br />
produces sparkling wines that are perfectly in tune with consumer trends<br />
across the age groups. Building on this success and with a view to leveraging<br />
growing demand both in Italy and abroad for low and no alcohol<br />
wines, Perlino has decided to invest in the category. This dovetails with<br />
a trend towards drinking ‘lighter’ and ‘healthier’, but without detracting<br />
from originality and taste. The company is fully aware of how challenging<br />
it is to produce a good product with a full aroma and flavour profile<br />
and at the same time is low in alcohol. Perlino is currently focusing on a<br />
low-alcohol, fruit-flavoured Moscato-based product named ‘Diva di sera’.<br />
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ITALY<br />
TREND<br />
PERLINO’S MARKETING MANAGER, ELENA BRANDA<br />
PERLINO’S MARKETING DIRECTOR DIEGO SALMI<br />
A Moscato Mango and a Moscato Cherry at 6% alcohol offer excellent alternatives<br />
for a lighter aperitif.<br />
Data from ‘IWSR Drinks Market Analysis 2021, Nielsen 2022, Innova New<br />
Product Database 2022’ shows that the average alcohol content of products<br />
launched in the last five years ranges from 4 to 5.5 % ABV while as many as<br />
20% of European consumers have sought lower alcohol products in the last<br />
12 months. These figures are being closely monitored by companies that have<br />
made history by continuously innovating and trying to anticipate trends while<br />
focusing on quality.<br />
STRIKING THE RIGHT BALANCE<br />
For wine ‘purists’, the world of no and low alcohol wine may be difficult to<br />
understand and accept, but it is clear that in a world where over 50% of the<br />
market is made up of teetotallers, this marketing opportunity cannot be ignored.<br />
It is important, especially in Italy, to better regulate the production and labelling<br />
of the products so as not to harm ‘traditional wine’ in any way and to be able to<br />
offer consumers useful information so that they can choose between the various<br />
products. The next five years will be crucial for the future of these beverages in<br />
Italy and throughout the Old World.<br />
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AOC MÉDOC: THE REVOLUTION<br />
OF A LOW-PROFILE,<br />
BUT INNOVATIVE APPELLATION<br />
BY CAMILLE BERNARD<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
The Médoc boasts a long-standing history of producing wine and has garnered<br />
an international reputation as the home of some of Bordeaux’s most prestigious<br />
appellations. Whilst the Médoc appellation is the area’s most extensive, it also<br />
keeps the lowest profile. This belies the work by its winegrowers to offer a unique<br />
interpretation of its grape varieties and to deliver extremely charming wines that<br />
deserve to be better known.<br />
CHÂTEAU ROLLAN DE BY<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
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MEDOC<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
A VINEYARD BELONGING TO ONE OF THE CO-OPERATIVE WINEGROWERS AT UNI-MÉDOC<br />
The Médoc, quite rightly, evokes the top names<br />
of the Bordeaux wine industry. But take a closer<br />
look and you discover unsuspected nuances,<br />
defining features and a treasure trove to be delved<br />
into. One of the reasons for this is that it covers<br />
an extensive footprint, sweeping across more<br />
than 16,000 hectares, from the Jalle de Blanquefort<br />
river on the outskirts of Bordeaux, to the<br />
shores of the Atlantic, on the tip of the Grave area.<br />
Across this expanse, the vineyards of the Médoc<br />
are home to both the prestigious properties which<br />
have contributed significantly to its global reputation,<br />
as well as small producers, the custodians<br />
of a centuries-old winegrowing heritage. The Médoc<br />
appellation is a perfect illustration of this, as<br />
the location of myriad small wineries which form<br />
a consolidated yet incredibly varied identity. Admittedly,<br />
if you apply the law that sets the boundaries<br />
of the appellation area, the entire Médoc<br />
wine region is eligible for AOC Médoc status.<br />
In practice, however, the vast majority of wines labelled<br />
Médoc are produced in the northern part of<br />
the peninsula, with the southern part occupied by<br />
AOC Haut-Médoc which rings the six village-designated<br />
appellations that are Margaux, Pauillac,<br />
Saint-Julien, Saint-Estèphe, Moulis-en-Médoc<br />
and Listrac-Médoc.<br />
UNI-MÉDOC’S BARREL CELLAR IS THE LARGEST ON THE MÉDOC PENINSULA<br />
What makes this specific area unique is that the<br />
spread of vineyards occurred at a later date than<br />
across the rest of the peninsula. There’s a good<br />
reason for that – it stems from the enterprising<br />
transformation of marshland by the Dutch who,<br />
in the 17 th century, decided to drain the land to<br />
grow grapes there.<br />
The present-day Médoc appellation area is defined<br />
by its incredible concentration of small wineries<br />
which produce very charming red wines<br />
that not only appeal for their flavour, but also the<br />
excellent value for money they offer.<br />
In the currently challenging economic climate,<br />
however, how is the appellation coping, overshadowed<br />
as it is sometimes by its illustrious<br />
neighbours despite the fact that it ticks all the<br />
boxes for consumers? To find out, we spoke to<br />
some of the appellation’s major producers.<br />
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THE UNI-MÉDOC FAMILY OF<br />
WINEGROWERS<br />
LES VIGNERONS D’UNI-MÉDOC: STRENGTH IN NUMBERS<br />
Stemming from the merger of the wineries in Bégadan, Ordonnac, Prignac and Queyrac,<br />
the Uni-Médoc group of co-operatives now stands as a linchpin of the Médoc appellation.<br />
Martin Cougnaud, its head of marketing, speaks of the group of 140 winegrowing<br />
families with undisguised pride: “With 1,000 hectares under vine, our co-operative accounts<br />
for 19% of AOC Médoc, which makes us the leading producer in the appellation”.<br />
At its facilities in Gaillan, which house its offices, winery and shop, the entire team<br />
works hard to enhance and promote the work of its co-operative winegrowers.<br />
In the privacy of the Médoc’s largest barrel cellar is where very different styles of wine<br />
are matured, “in a bid to offer an extensive range embracing every style of red wine”.<br />
This source of pride however belies a very real concern. Alexis Danglade, Uni-Médoc’s<br />
sales manager for France, comments on the challenges encountered by the appellation:<br />
“Bordeaux’s reputation has suffered and we are suffering from this poor image. Even<br />
our Crus Bourgeois struggle to secure shelf space in wine merchants, despite their<br />
quality”. This has not put a dent in the enthusiasm of the winegrowers at Uni-Médoc,<br />
though, who are redoubling their efforts to “remain focused on their priorities and do<br />
everything in their power to continue to reign over their appellation by ensuring a presence<br />
along the Médoc coast”, stresses Danglade.<br />
Driven by their belief in the need to supply easy-drinking wines, Les Vignerons d’Uni-Médoc<br />
launched Simply Médoc in 2020. The brand features two red wines which retain the<br />
typicity of Médoc whilst being more accessible. The fruit-forward offerings also display<br />
novel, minimalist labels so that they can stand out in a crowded marketplace.<br />
So far, all of these levers have enabled the winery to be well received on a very local scale<br />
and to post a slight but encouraging increase in sales.<br />
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CAMILLE DUJARDIN, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF<br />
PRODUCTA VIGNOBLES<br />
THE MERRAIN ROUGE LABEL IS MATURED IN THE BARREL<br />
CELLAR AT VIGNERONS D’UNI-MÉDOC<br />
Concurrently with this, as pioneers of sustainability – with the first schemes<br />
launched in 1993 – Cougnaud proudly stresses that “97% of vineyards grown by<br />
Uni-Médoc winegrowers are certified HVE 3”. He adds, “The location of the vineyards,<br />
between the estuary and the ocean, creates a milder micro-climate that<br />
safeguards them from extreme heat”.<br />
Uni-Médoc combines pride, adaptability and a commitment to the environment<br />
and demonstrates that, despite the current headwinds, unity and perseverance are<br />
still reliable values in the wine industry.<br />
PRODUCTA VIGNOBLES: CELEBRATING VARIETY<br />
Founded in 1949, Producta Vignobles is now a key player in the Bordeaux wine<br />
market. It boasts a solid reputation in the region, and as a company with co-operative<br />
shareholders, it has become a choice partner for the wine industry where it<br />
plays a pivotal role.<br />
Its expertise spans from purchasing to logistics and marketing and it has a firm<br />
rooting in the vineyards of Bordeaux. But what sets it apart is its mission. As the<br />
company’s marketing and communications manager, Stéphanie Monteau points<br />
out, “Producta Vignobles is the bridge between the winegrower and the consumer”.<br />
Under the skilful management of Camille Dujardin, who has been its managing<br />
director since 2020, Producta Vignobles continues to combine tradition and mo-<br />
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LÉGENDES<br />
A VINEYARD WHOSE WINES ARE MARKETED BY PRODUCTA VIGNOBLES<br />
dernity. The CSR policy rolled out in the company is anything but a simple sales<br />
gimmick: “It reflects the inherent spirit within the company and the 18 co-operative<br />
wineries in the group, which go from the Médoc to Monbazillac”.<br />
The Médoc itself offers the perfect illustration of the diversification strategy implemented<br />
by the company. Monteau explains: “Of all the appellations in the region,<br />
AOC Médoc is considered by consumers as a recognised, flagship appellation”. As<br />
a testament to this, “despite a general decline in consumption of red wines, the<br />
appellation continues to appeal”.<br />
Producta Vignobles has not just gone with the flow, it has shaped trends. By<br />
launching the CodeM label, produced by one of its esteemed shareholding wineries<br />
at Uni-Médoc, the company supplies “fruity, oak-free wines aimed at people<br />
looking for accessible wines”.<br />
Meanwhile, “the Merrain Rouge label [Ed. also produced by Vignerons d’Uni-Médoc]<br />
epitomises the strength and authenticity of AOC Médoc, where oak ageing<br />
lends the wine the powerful structure specific to traditional Médoc”.<br />
Such differently styled wines illustrate Producta Vignoble’s ability to adapt. As Dujardin<br />
points out, “The expertise of the winegrowers and technical staff coupled<br />
with the range of vineyard sites and grape varieties available allow us to supply<br />
modern, offbeat brands whilst also ensuring impeccable quality”.<br />
Producta Vignobles demonstrates, with passion, expertise and receptiveness, that<br />
it is possible to respond to changing consumer tastes whilst at the same time honouring<br />
a rich winegrowing tradition.<br />
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MEDOC<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
CHÂTEAU CARMÉNÈRE:<br />
WHEN ORIGINALITY SUPPORTS<br />
THE MÉDOC<br />
RICHARD BARRAUD, THE OWNER OF CHÂTEAU<br />
CARMÉNÈRE<br />
CHÂTEAU CARMÉNÈRE WELCOMES PRIVATE CUSTOMERS TO THE WINERY<br />
At his farm located in the Queyrac area, Richard<br />
Barraud, the owner of Château Carménère,<br />
explores avenues of innovation and entrepreneurship.<br />
After racking up a number of different<br />
experiences in a variety of wineries, a personal<br />
challenge led him to buy his own small farm in<br />
2005. Fuelled by a desire to produce Médoc red<br />
wines, he admits that he rapidly became aware<br />
of the challenges of competing with the Médoc’s<br />
Grands Crus. “Initially, I only had two hectares of<br />
typical Médoc grape varieties. We really started<br />
off with a blank canvas”, he recalls.<br />
But what really sets Château Carménère apart is<br />
its quest for originality and creativeness, which<br />
defines the estate’s spirit. Barraud has embraced<br />
the challenge of reincorporating the Carmenere<br />
grape variety, which used to be widely grown in<br />
the region but fell out of favour due to its susceptibility<br />
to shatter. In fact, he admits, “It is a fragile<br />
grape variety that has caused us a lot of issues:<br />
98% of the flowers succumbed to shatter and we<br />
had extremely low yields”. Despite these hurdles,<br />
Barraud remains determined, charmed by the<br />
unusual nuances of Carmenere and its ability to<br />
produce wines that are light yet structured.<br />
His resilience has paid off, producing a range of<br />
wines which has broken with Médoc traditions.<br />
In 2018, he even launched a single varietal Carmenere<br />
called Audace and every year, he scales up<br />
the proportion of the variety in his blended wines.<br />
In doing so, he is able to decrease the percentage<br />
of Merlot, which he considers to be less resistant<br />
to excessive heat.<br />
Barraud admits that the challenge now lies in introducing<br />
the variety to customers more accustomed<br />
to its Chilean and Argentinean iterations.<br />
Nevertheless, the undeniable uniqueness of his<br />
wines resonates with his private customers, but<br />
also with overseas markets where his wines have<br />
now attracted a following in Switzerland, Germany<br />
and even Norway.<br />
Ultimately, although he points the finger at Bor-<br />
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CHATEAU HAUT CONDISSAS, THE FLAGSHIP OF DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY<br />
JEAN GUYON, OWNER OF DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY<br />
deaux’s inability to fully promote its wines and appellations, Barraud still has<br />
faith in his policy of differentiation: “Working directly with my customers allows<br />
me to engage with them and find out whether they like our wines. That contact<br />
strengthens the trust we place in our determination to focus on the distinctiveness<br />
of this grape variety which, also, seems to be a varietal of the future faced<br />
with global warming”, he concludes optimistically.<br />
DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY: MAKING JOYFUL WINES<br />
Jean Guyon has had a number of different professions and is not your average<br />
winegrower. “I have always had a passion for wine, one that was passed down to<br />
me by my father”, he concedes. This attraction to the ‘nectar of the gods’ led him<br />
to set himself a daring challenge, that of owning his own vineyard in the Médoc.<br />
“I started off with 2 hectares in the 1990s with a single-minded goal which was<br />
to make a fine wine”, he recounts. The real challenge, however, was not so much<br />
to produce the wine as to establish a reputation for it. “Terroir is crucial, as is<br />
the quality of the wine, but making a name for yourself is the hardest part”. He<br />
rapidly realised that he needed to extend his acreage to establish a reputation<br />
and gradually acquired several properties, increasing the total area under vine at<br />
Domaines Rollan de By to 185 hectares.<br />
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MEDOC<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
THE WINERY AT DOMAINES ROLLAN DE BY BEARS THE STAMP OF JEAN GUYON’S PASSION<br />
FOR ART<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN<br />
Among the range of AOC Médoc wines that begin<br />
life in these vineyard sites, he proudly mentions<br />
Château Condissas, which made a name for<br />
itself by outperforming a Cru Classé at an official<br />
tasting.<br />
Driven by his own success, Guyon is fairly critical<br />
about the Médoc, a region he describes as “one big<br />
hotchpotch where the best rub shoulders with the<br />
worst. It is an outstanding region that has neglected<br />
its own development”. He feels that the key to<br />
success lies, and will continue to lie in the future,<br />
in his capacity to stand out from the crowd.<br />
Despite the growing reputation of Domaines Rollan<br />
de By, Guyon has noticed that a challenging<br />
economy is adding pressure and that marketing<br />
remains a colossal challenge. The irony is that the<br />
Médoc appellation, despite covering a sprawling<br />
area, struggles to turn up the volume and attract<br />
attention. Guyon highlights the striking contrast<br />
between Burgundy’s young, laid back image and<br />
Bordeaux’s stuffy image, underscoring the need<br />
to revamp its image by “making our wines joyful”.<br />
Despite everything, Guyon remains an optimist,<br />
and stays true to his initial philosophy of “making<br />
good wine for every table”. His wines are now<br />
sold both in France and abroad, particularly in<br />
the United States where the Château Greysac label<br />
is the best-selling French wine. Aware of the<br />
challenges caused by climate change and the need<br />
to rein in rising alcohol levels, he has adapted his<br />
vineyard management techniques and is even<br />
considering partially de-alcoholising his wines to<br />
respond to new consumer tastes. This innovative<br />
tack mirrors Jean Guyon’s unique career.<br />
CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN:<br />
LENDING THE MÉDOC ELEGANCE<br />
In Bégadan, very near the Gironde estuary, Château<br />
Vieux Robin encapsulates five generations of<br />
a passionate family of winegrowers. What makes<br />
its twenty or so hectares under vine unique is<br />
that “the soils are clay-limestone, clay-gravel and<br />
clay-silica”, explains its lucky owner, Maryse Roba.<br />
“For over twenty years, we have been farming our<br />
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MEDOC<br />
DISCOVERY<br />
vines sustainably. Our determination to protect the environment can be seen in the<br />
biodiversity that is widespread across our vineyards”, says Roba.<br />
The winery’s pledge to the environment only enhances its heritage, but this is not<br />
the only vineyard where wines produced by the Roba family excel. In 2011, Roba also<br />
bought Domaine des Anguilleys, previously owned by her parents. Here, the terroir is<br />
dramatically different, and produces more accessible Médoc wines with silkier tannins,<br />
thereby broadening the range of flavours on offer, and meeting the needs of a<br />
wider audience.<br />
Despite this ability to supply wines in very different styles, Roba stresses the challenges<br />
facing the Médoc appellation: “It is essential to win back local customers. Some<br />
consumers feel that the tannins in Médoc wines are too harsh, which is why we pay<br />
great attention to detail in the vineyards, particularly before the harvest, when we<br />
taste the grapes until the pips taste like hazelnuts and the skins are nicely supple. This<br />
allows us to have very elegant juice and avoid astringent tannins”.<br />
Also, in a bid to constantly aim for quality and elegance, the winery favours very gentle<br />
extraction and maturation in barrels with short toasts so that the fruit can express itself.<br />
Although the majority of the wines produced by the two wineries is bound for export<br />
markets (70%), Roba’s goal is clear: “People need to rediscover this magnificent peninsula<br />
that is the Médoc”. She knows that one of the appellation’s calling cards is its tourist<br />
appeal and concludes optimistically, “The future for the Médoc seems bright”.<br />
MARYSE ROBA, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN, OFFERS TASTINGS<br />
OF HER WINES TO PRIVATE CUSTOMERS<br />
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THE BUILDINGS AT CHÂTEAU<br />
VIEUX ROBIN<br />
THE BARREL CELLAR AT<br />
CHÂTEAU VIEUX ROBIN<br />
A PATENT NEED TO DEVELOP AN IMAGE<br />
In the Médoc’s extensive winegrowing landscape, tradition and prestige are often<br />
presented as the pivotal aspects of the stories we are all familiar with. And<br />
yet, the testimonials shared by independent producers and co-operative wineries<br />
in the namesake appellation tell a different story, revealing a modern facet<br />
to this long-standing wine region. In an AOC that struggles both to emerge<br />
from the shadows of its prestigious neighbours and garner a reputation for the<br />
wines it produces, the wines themselves epitomise innovation, resilience and<br />
differentiation. Admittedly, each producer follows their own strategy, but all of<br />
them illustrate the importance of embracing change and reinventing themselves.<br />
For some, this entails re-introducing an heirloom grape variety, for others<br />
creating a brand aimed at making a name for themselves and appealing to new<br />
consumers. But they all stress that passion, determination and adaptation are<br />
the essential ingredients for standing out from the crowd. Ultimately, their stories<br />
highlight the potential for innovation that exists even in the most traditional<br />
wine regions, stressing that the future of the Médoc, just like its past, will<br />
be written by enterprising pioneers.<br />
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ANORA, THE BIRTH OF A WINE<br />
AND SPIRITS GIANT<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE COMPANY<br />
You may not have heard of Anora yet, but since 2021 the company has become the<br />
new leader in beverage alcohol across the Nordic countries. Specialising in the<br />
production, import, export and distribution of wines and spirits, it is on track to<br />
become a global sales powerhouse. Its rapid growth compels admiration, as do its<br />
innovative, high-performance initiatives including the creation of some mouldbreaking<br />
brands.<br />
JACEK PASTUSZKA, ANORA CEO<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
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THE KOSKENKORVA DISTILLERY<br />
IN FINLAND<br />
SUSTAINABILITY HAS ALWAYS<br />
BEEN A LINCHPIN OF THE<br />
COMPANY’S GROWTH STRATEGY<br />
B<br />
ut first a look at the company’s origins. Anora may well be young, but it did not<br />
appear out of nowhere. Far from it. It stems from the merger of two companies,<br />
one Finnish, Altia – a well-established producer and marketer of alcoholic drinks in<br />
Nordic markets and the Baltic countries –the other Arcus, the largest wine importer<br />
and spirits producer in Norway. Anora, which is known for its import and distribution<br />
activities, also owns a broad-ranging portfolio of brands, some of which<br />
have a long-standing history. Linie, the group’s oldest firm, is a case in point – its<br />
story dates back to 1805 and it produces an aquavit which is matured in the sea and<br />
has become an icon.<br />
But Linie is not the only brand to boast time-honoured traditions. If you are a<br />
spirits enthusiast, names like Koskenkorva and O.P. Anderson will be familiar to<br />
you. Well-established companies like these sit comfortably alongside more recent<br />
brands within the Scandinavian group. They have also carved out a name for themselves<br />
as innovative, disruptive stable mates which bring a new perspective to the<br />
world of wines and spirits. Although they have a strong following in the markets of<br />
Northern Europe, they are also gradually gaining traction internationally.<br />
One such example is Chill Out. It cannot be classed as a newcomer as it’s been<br />
around for 20 years in the Swedish market, but it has drawn attention for its novel<br />
packaging. Its recycled PET bottles and 100% recyclable boxes epitomise its relaxed,<br />
consumer-centric approach to wine. The packaging is practical, light and easy to<br />
carry and it is designed to make consumers’ lives simpler. In fact, the brand has just<br />
launched a 1.5-litre bag-in-box of organic Zinfandel from Italy, shares Anna Bastin<br />
Löwgren, Chill Out’s brand owner. The format breaks with the customary 3-litre<br />
box tradition and is designed to offer a more appropriate solution for households.<br />
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SCANDINAVIA<br />
FOCUS<br />
ALTERNATIVES TO GLASS BOTTLES<br />
The formats are not only convenient, they are also sustainable. That’s because<br />
Chill Out believes that an environmentally-friendly policy is a central tenet that<br />
should not just be applied to producing the contents. Tetra packaging, which is<br />
particularly popular in Finland where it is growing, “produces fewer CO2 emissions<br />
than other types of packaging”, explains Bastin Löwgren. “Chill Out will<br />
never produce heavy glass bottles. It simply is not our ethos”.<br />
Glass bottles are indeed heavy and very energy-intensive – to produce, transport<br />
and recycle – which makes them the biggest contributor to greenhouse gas<br />
emissions in the wine industry. By way of comparison, a 3-litre bag-in-box has a<br />
carbon footprint six times lower than a 75 cl bottle.<br />
Chill Out has therefore developed alternatives to reduce the carbon footprint of<br />
its containers, and goes to great lengths to do so. For example, the plastic handles<br />
on its boxes and the taps are now made from transparent plastic because black<br />
ANNA BASTIN LÖWGREN, BRAND OWNER AT CHILL OUT<br />
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91
@Danger Österlin<br />
@Danger Österlin<br />
CHILL OUT’S BOXES ARE EASY TO DISMANTLE AND CAN BE<br />
SORTED EASILY<br />
ANORA HAS DEVELOPED ALTERNATIVE APPROACHES TO GLASS PACKAGING<br />
plastic cannot be recycled. The pouches have been made lighter and produced<br />
with no metal parts in order to facilitate recycling. And the PET bottles are all<br />
made from 100% recycled plastic. “This is unique”, stresses Bastin Löwgren. “We<br />
are very proud of our innovative containers”.<br />
“LET’S DRINK BETTER”<br />
This sustainable approach is probably the common denominator between all the<br />
brands in the Anora portfolio. In fact, the group’s motto is “Let’s drink better”,<br />
comments Bastin Löwgren. And sustainability is at the core of its policy. “It is<br />
one of our priorities. We are investing a lot of money and time to produce better,<br />
more flavourful and environmentally-friendly products”.<br />
Everything has been adapted so that Anora’s own production, based on the<br />
circular economy, can become carbon neutral by 2030, with no offsets. Thirty<br />
percent of their grain-based spirits will be grown using regenerative farming<br />
techniques. Regenerative farming aims to restore health in the soils by promoting<br />
biodiversity, among other aspects, so that they can capture more carbon<br />
naturally – and thereby help mitigate climate change – and be less prone to erosion.<br />
Obviously, water management is one of the group’s major concerns. In fact,<br />
it protects underground water areas the size of 1,500 football pitches.<br />
This sense of responsibility within the group predictably also involves social<br />
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SCANDINAVIA<br />
FOCUS<br />
aspects. It belongs to The United Nations Global<br />
Compact, the largest global initiative for sustainability,<br />
which is a platform of collective actions<br />
fostering fairer and more inclusive companies.<br />
Anora advocates transparency and respect for<br />
human rights at every level of production. It<br />
also promotes diversity and equality, with 40%<br />
of board positions occupied by women. Through<br />
this, Anora demonstrates how its commitment<br />
goes way beyond the environment alone. In fact,<br />
it has developed a broad range of alcohol-free or<br />
low alcohol products, both in the wine and spirits<br />
categories. In 2022 alone, 26 NOLO products<br />
were launched by the group.<br />
TRAVEL RETAIL IS ALSO AN IMPORTANT SALES CHANNEL FOR THE<br />
GROUP AS IT HELPS GROW THE COMPANY’S GLOBAL REPUTATION<br />
A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS MODEL<br />
Anora has always placed sustainability at the core<br />
of its strategy, as both a driver of growth and value<br />
creation. In fact, it offers tangible proof of<br />
the success of this business model, generating<br />
revenue of 703 million euros in 2022 with a staff<br />
of 1,200. Its portfolio continues to expand – in<br />
2022, it took over Globus Wine, Denmark’s leading<br />
wine company. By acquiring new brands<br />
and diversifying its listings, it has strengthened<br />
its presence in the Nordic markets.<br />
Obviously, the story doesn’t end here. To promote<br />
growth, the company also focuses on its iconic<br />
brands, its constant innovations, on creating digital<br />
channels and on its distribution business. It<br />
has just signed an agreement with AB InBev to<br />
market some of its famous beers – Corona, Stella<br />
Artois and Budweiser – in the on-trade in Finland<br />
and Norway. The move underscores the group’s<br />
determination not to just focus on the off-trade.<br />
The on-trade is also an area where Anora seems<br />
intent on becoming a major player, particularly in<br />
international markets. It already exports to over<br />
30 countries. The aim is “to introduce the world<br />
to the finest products from the Nordic countries<br />
and to introduce the Nordic countries to the world’s<br />
finest products”. There is no denying that<br />
Anora is gearing up to become one of the world’s<br />
leading players.<br />
ANORA DISTRIBUTES RENOWNED BRANDS LIKE LOUIS ROEDERER<br />
CHAMPAGNES, JACK DANIELS AND FERNET BRANCA<br />
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BEAUMES-DE-VENISE, CAIRANNE,<br />
GIGONDAS, RASTEAU AND VINSOBRES,<br />
FIVE SOUTHERN JEWELS IN THE<br />
RHONE VALLEY CROWN<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
In 2022, the Rhone Valley marketed 329 million bottles and shipped wines to<br />
186 countries, making it one of France’s premier wine regions. Amidst a galaxy<br />
of legendary appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte-Rôtie and Crozes-<br />
Hermitage, five less publicised southern growths each offer some incredible pours.<br />
HARVESTING WITH THE MONT VENTOUX IN THE BACKDROP AT DOMAINE SAINT AMANT<br />
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RHONE VALLEY<br />
TERROIRS<br />
ELOÏSE NOSWORTHY, BRIGITTE, DOROTHEE AND SIMON HEADING OFF TO HARVEST<br />
Amidst stunning scenery, the tranquil waters of the Rhone flow towards the South and<br />
the Mediterranean Sea where extensive swathes of vineyards sit amidst garrigue,<br />
lavender fields and olive groves. The bountiful, powerful river cuts through the entire Rhone<br />
Valley, shaping both its character and its vineyard sites. The region’s reputation is fuelled<br />
by top appellations like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Côte-Rôtie and Crozes-Hermitage and it<br />
has successfully overcome its image as a purveyor of easy-drinking, robust, crowd-pleasing,<br />
entry-level wines. For many years now, this simplistic equation has been quashed by a<br />
quantum leap in quality stemming from impeccable control over crop yields. The 17 Côtes du<br />
Rhône growths now also showcase more under-the-radar appellations including Beaumesde-Venise,<br />
Cairanne, Gigondas, Rasteau and Vinsobres, where we headed to meet some of<br />
the winegrowers. The results lived up to our expectations, offering a wide variety of genuine,<br />
elegant treasures which fully epitomise the quintessential qualities of their vineyard sites,<br />
climate and remarkable craftsmanship.<br />
BEAUMES-DE-VENISE<br />
DOMAINE SAINT AMANT: A WINERY THAT<br />
TAKES THE HIGH ROAD<br />
At the foot of a mountain range where the picturesque Dentelles de Montmirail soar towards<br />
the sky, Beaumes-de-Venise stands like an enclave in the heart of Provence. This lush oasis<br />
is seemingly buoyed by its flowers, olive groves and vineyards that produce unique wines.<br />
Founded by Jacques Wallut in 1995, the family-run Saint Amant winery is managed by a<br />
dynamic mother-sister duo, namely Camille and Eloïse Nosworthy. Nestled amidst the<br />
mountains, at 600 metres above sea level on the south-eastern slopes of mount Saint-<br />
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RHONE VALLEY<br />
TERROIRS<br />
CAMILLE NOSWORTHY HARVESTING AT DOMAINE SAINT AMANT<br />
Amand, its peak, the 13 hectares under vine are<br />
dotted across small terraces. These are lined with<br />
banks that are home to broom, almond trees, rock<br />
roses, thyme and rosemary, and surrounded by<br />
woodland, fruit trees and pines, all of them living<br />
in perfect harmony with abundant biodiversity.<br />
“Our vines benefit from the coolness stemming<br />
from the elevation and contrasting temperatures<br />
between day and night which promote slower<br />
ripening and slightly more pronounced acidity”,<br />
explains Camille Nosworthy. “Our aim is to showcase<br />
the coolness of altitude whose defining<br />
feature is a complex terroir, often with a dash<br />
of salinity”. High-elevation sites play a pivotal<br />
role, with very forward freshness, appetising<br />
fruit, and very supple tannins in the red wines<br />
which flirt with the best. “It is impossible, and<br />
unthinkable, to rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which<br />
is a sacrosanct institution”, adds Eloïse Nosworthy.<br />
“Beaumes-de-Venise is a full-fledged growth in the<br />
southern Rhone Valley, with a distinctive rooting<br />
in the Dentelles de Montmirail. Sometimes we<br />
struggle to emerge from the shadows of our two<br />
neighbours, Vacqueyras and Gigondas. But we are<br />
convinced that Beaumes-de-Venise will successfully<br />
find its place among the top wine regions in<br />
the South of France”.<br />
NB: Domaine Saint Amant is spelled with a T, and<br />
Mont Saint Amand with a D.<br />
MAX THOMAS TASTING WINES AT DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER<br />
CAIRANNE<br />
DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER:<br />
A CENTURY OF EXCELLENCE<br />
Domaine Lucien Tramier is a remarkable<br />
100-year-old winery which has been growing<br />
vines in unique Rhone Valley sites since 1912. The<br />
variety of soils and range of aspects of the vineyard<br />
blocks promotes production of prized signature<br />
wines. As the heir to this authentic legacy, fourth-generation<br />
winegrower Max Thomas has been<br />
running the winery since 2007. “The clay-limestone<br />
soils enable us to produce wines with finesse<br />
that stay fresh, despite the hot summer weather”,<br />
he explains. “At every level of our ranges, including<br />
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RHONE VALLEY<br />
TERROIRS<br />
our Cairanne, we focus primarily on ‘palatability’<br />
when our wines are young. Right from the first<br />
few months, our wines are enjoyable, and you<br />
don’t necessarily have to wait several years for<br />
them to be ready to drink”. The grapes are picked<br />
at peak ripeness, without extended hang times,<br />
so that the sugars and acids are balanced. Finesse,<br />
elegance and freshness are the guiding principles<br />
at the winery, with variations depending on the<br />
sites, but invariably the best value for money<br />
possible. “Since Cairanne became a Cru in 2015, we<br />
have witnessed increased interest in the appellation”,<br />
stresses Benjamin Laigle, the winery’s sales<br />
manager. “Depending on the markets, being able<br />
to provide Cairanne is a definite plus point. It is<br />
an upcoming appellation where every parameter<br />
is progressing in leaps and bounds, both in terms<br />
of awareness and quality, with a high proportion<br />
of independent and young winegrowers who want<br />
to push the boundaries”.<br />
MAX THOMAS AND LUCIEN TRAMIER, PASSING SKILLS DOWN THROUGH THE FAMILY<br />
GIGONDAS<br />
GIGONDAS LA CAVE:<br />
A MAJOR PLAYER<br />
THE GRAPE HARVEST AT GIGONDAS LA CAVE<br />
Tradition often creates a virtuous circle. For over<br />
sixty years, the co-operative winery in Gigondas<br />
has been a major player in the Gigondas appellation,<br />
bordering on the neighbouring appellation<br />
areas of Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise. Its<br />
members show great respect for their outstanding<br />
vineyard sites and farm them with passion so<br />
that they can take high-quality fruit to the winery.<br />
“We are not really in competition with the other<br />
Rhone Valley growths”, claims the director Christophe<br />
Esclangon. “I think we’re complementary.<br />
The vineyards of Gigondas produce finer, more<br />
delicate wines. They are highly prized by our<br />
customers, our aim being to seek out complexity<br />
without the wines being overly powerful. Drinkability<br />
is increasingly prioritised and it’s a criteria<br />
that we focus on”. The Gigondas appellation is<br />
renowned and recognised, offering consistent<br />
quality at competitive prices. And that is undeniably<br />
a real bonus in export markets.<br />
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RHONE VALLEY<br />
TERROIRS<br />
FAMILLE CHERON: GENUINE<br />
PLEASURE<br />
YVES CHERON AND HIS DAUGHTER ELISA<br />
MARTY ECHEREI, ELISA CHERON’S HUSBAND, WHO JOINED<br />
THE ESTATE IN 2020<br />
The Chéron family continues to build upon the<br />
achievements of five generations of winemakers<br />
who, over the years, have established a distinctive<br />
signature style through outstanding wines.<br />
Crafting wine implies making a pledge to arouse<br />
emotions and act as a catalyst for enjoyable occasions<br />
and shared happiness, whilst also safeguarding<br />
the rich and varied legacy of vineyard sites.<br />
As a fifth-generation winegrower, Elisa Cheron<br />
has left her own personal stamp on winemaking,<br />
maturation and bottling, ultimately leading to<br />
great finesse in the wines. “We are convinced<br />
that only natural balance can shape authentic,<br />
meaningful and flavourful wines”, she claims.<br />
“We seek out the most genuine, purest expression<br />
of our vineyard sites. We humbly try and<br />
understand the specific features of our soils and<br />
vineyard blocks. Although the desire for balance is<br />
the guiding principle behind our blends, our daily<br />
focus is on achieving site-expressiveness in its<br />
most natural state”. The result is quite simply stunning<br />
wines brimming with harmony and finesse<br />
that offer great pleasure for consumers.<br />
RASTEAU<br />
MAISON SAFRANIER: A FUSION<br />
OF TWO LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE<br />
Maison Safranier encapsulates the encounter<br />
between two passionate wine enthusiasts who<br />
have created an entirely new concept that is<br />
elegant, focused and pure. Seasoned winegrower<br />
Claude Hilt founded Villa Safranier in 2010. Land<br />
was painstakingly acquired in some of France’s<br />
finest vineyard sites, primarily in Rasteau and<br />
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. When Isabelle Thomas<br />
Moine joined him as consultant winemaker in<br />
2014, it marked a new turning point for the estate.<br />
Her meticulous work throughout the winemaking<br />
and blending process paved the way for Villa<br />
Safranier to secure unanimous recognition for its<br />
outstanding quality and faithful rendition of the<br />
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A SURPRISE IN THE TANKS<br />
AT DOMAINE SAINT AMANT<br />
VINEYARDS BELONGING<br />
TO THE GIGONDAS<br />
CO-OPERATIVE WINERY<br />
THE CHERON FAMILY<br />
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CLAUDE HILT WAS THE ORIGINAL DRIVING FORCE<br />
BEHIND MAISON SAFRANIER<br />
ISABELLE THOMAS MOINE<br />
original vineyard sites. In 2020, Claude Hilt and Isabelle Thomas Moine embarked on a new<br />
challenge and created Maison Safranier with the ambition of developing mould-breaking,<br />
enterprising wines. “The countryside around Rasteau has distinctive rolling hills”, explains<br />
Thomas Moine. “The location creates a range of microclimates offering the opportunity to<br />
choose the best aspect for each grape variety, based on their specific needs in terms of sunshine<br />
and airflow”. Rasteau is home to substantial biodiversity with an array of flora and fauna that<br />
contribute to environmental balance in the vineyards and have a positive impact on vine health<br />
and the quality of the fruit. “We don’t feel that there is any rivalry, but rather complementarity<br />
between us and appellations like, say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape”, says Hilt. “The two growths offer<br />
outstanding showcases for the variety of vineyard sites in the Rhone Valley. Rasteau displays<br />
distinctive generosity and power, whereas Châteauneuf-du-Pape is valued for its finesse and<br />
freshness. Rasteau is a renowned appellation, boasting a long-standing history and established<br />
reputation for quality which facilitates sales in international markets”. Maison Safranier<br />
produces a wide selection of wines, ranging from powerful, complex reds to generous sweet<br />
dessert wines. This variety helps it match the differing tastes and preferences of consumers<br />
globally from the heart of a region replete with internationally renowned, top appellations.<br />
MAISON LUMIAN & BONNEFOY: A WINNING COMBINATION<br />
Organic winegrowers Gilles Phétisson and Caroline Bonnefoy have been working together<br />
since 2005. They make their wines separately, from the 35-hectare Lumian vineyard for<br />
Phétisson and at Bonnefoy for her. On sites located between 360 and 380 metres above sea<br />
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CAROLINE BONNEFOY IN HER VINEYARDS<br />
level with clay and brown limestone pebble-strewn soils facing South, Maison Lumian &<br />
Bonnefoy covers 45 hectares under vine straddling four appellations - Valréas, Beaumes-de-<br />
Venise, Ventoux and Rasteau. “We strive to offer the finest rendition of our vineyard sites”, says<br />
Bonnefoy. “The cool subsoil and elevation of 210 to 260 metres for the hillsides make this one<br />
of the latest-ripening parts of the appellation area. We can wait for phenolic ripeness without<br />
generating excessive alcohol content”. The southern aspect of the hillside sites, sheltered from<br />
the Mistral wind by the state-owned forest to the North, along with the brown limestone<br />
pebbles on the surface, promote ripening in the Grenache vines. The earlier-ripening Syrah<br />
benefits from cooler temperatures due to a nearby spring.<br />
VINSOBRES<br />
DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU: SCALING THE HEIGHTS<br />
Facing the Mont Ventoux, Vinsobres is the first Rhone Valley Cru in the Provence part of<br />
Drôme, the most southerly part of the Auvergne-Rhônes-Alpes region. Located thirty or<br />
so kilometres from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it produces rich, ample wines due to its terroir<br />
and remarkable exposure. The reds display minerality which lends them specific characters<br />
and ageability. Philippe Wallon and his son Sébastien farm 5 hectares of vineyards and limit<br />
production at Domaine Le Mirabeau to 10,000 bottles blended from 70% Grenache and 30%<br />
Syrah – the wines have been awarded a Gilbert & Gaillard gold medal. “The uniqueness of<br />
our vineyard sites stems from the appellation’s location”, explains Philippe Wallon. Set at 400<br />
metres above sea level, Vinsobres is the highest Cru in the entire Rhone Valley. “On top of this<br />
is the nearby Mont Ventoux which creates a hot climate during the day and cool tempera-<br />
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RHONE VALLEY<br />
TERROIRS<br />
tures overnight”. The resultant wines benefit from<br />
these outstanding conditions and show distinctive<br />
fresh fruit notes and silky, elegant tannins that<br />
guarantee good cellaring capacity.<br />
PHILIPPE WALLON, THE OWNER OF DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU<br />
DOMAINE SAINT VINCENT:<br />
UNIQUE NORTHERN CHARACTERS<br />
PHILIPPE LESCOCHE, THE WINEGROWER AND OWNER AT<br />
DOMAINE SAINT VINCENT IN THE CELLAR DOOR FACILITIES<br />
Domaine Saint Vincent was established in 1920<br />
but reached a turning point in its history in 2012.<br />
After being owned by three generations of the<br />
same family, this outstanding winery was bought<br />
by the Lescoche family whose ambition was to<br />
build on previous achievements and continue to<br />
promote its quality and prestige. The 50-hectare<br />
vineyard is mostly planted to Grenache and<br />
Syrah, the region’s iconic grape varieties. The<br />
vines are lovingly farmed in a way that honours<br />
ancient traditions. “Vinsobres is a village and a<br />
hilltop appellation which boasts 1,375 hectares of<br />
terraced vineyards located between 200 and 450<br />
metres above sea level”, comments owner Philippe<br />
Lescoche. The appellation is sheltered by a microclimate<br />
and its vineyards in the shape of an amphitheatre.<br />
Its felicitous, and unique location make<br />
it a southern growth with a northern accent – the<br />
wines are fruity and generous. Its high elevation<br />
vineyard sites and upfront freshness are its defining<br />
features. “Our vineyards promote wines that<br />
are less driven by alcohol and are fresher on the<br />
palate”, claims Ludivine Lescoche, the owner’s<br />
daughter and head of sales. “Vinsobres wines are<br />
also very age-worthy and will usually keep for up<br />
to ten years. Winemaking and maturation techniques<br />
bring out their full aromatic potential.<br />
Unfortunately, though, they are still very much<br />
under the radar in export markets. Depending<br />
on the country, trade customers sometimes do<br />
not differentiate between a generic Côtes-du-<br />
Rhône and a Rhone Valley growth”. Domaine<br />
Saint Vincent turns the spotlight on the typicity<br />
and identity of Cru Vinsobres. The Grenache-Syrah<br />
blends display great aromatic profiles. The wines<br />
are supple and balanced with silky tannins lending<br />
structure and superb elegance.<br />
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LUDIVINE LESCOCHE, DAUGHTER<br />
OF THE OWNER AT DOMAINE<br />
SAINT VINCENT WITH HER<br />
PARTNER GUILLAUME COIN,<br />
THE SALES MANAGER<br />
VIBRANT GROWTHS BURSTING WITH VITALITY<br />
Set at the pinnacle of the top French wine regions, the Rhone Valley is home to a remarkable<br />
17 Crus, several of which are internationally renowned. Behind the major names, these<br />
southern appellations appeal for their remarkable quality. Winegrowers in Beaumes-de-Venise,<br />
Cairanne, Gigondas, Rasteau and Vinsobres have successfully leveraged their prime location,<br />
terroir, exceptional sunshine and iconic grape varieties. Grenache ensures high alcohol potential,<br />
whilst Syrah displays abundant aromatics and Mourvèdre instils refined spicy notes in<br />
the wines. For a majority of wineries, the results are stunning with fruit-forward wines that<br />
express very elegant roundness. Also, and this is an important cue for the end consumer, their<br />
very attractive price point is an undeniable bonus. In a highly competitive marketplace replete<br />
with wine, these five growths produce a constellation of great wines that fully deserved to be<br />
discovered and enjoyed.<br />
KEY FACTS AND FIGURES<br />
Beaumes-de-Venise Cairanne Gigondas Rasteau Vinsobres<br />
AOC since 2005 AOC since 2016 AOC since 1971 AOC since 2010 AOC since 2006<br />
692 ha 1,088 ha 1,186 ha 961 ha 522 ha<br />
20,304 hl 30,000 hl 32,986 hl 31,747 hl 17,223 hl<br />
9% exports 45% exports 32% exports 29% exports 38% exports<br />
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ARGENTINA, A LONG-STANDING<br />
TRADITION OF ORGANIC WINES<br />
BY MAURICIO LLAVER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE ESTATES<br />
A climate with little rainfall and plenty of sunshine has traditionally promoted<br />
healthy vines and wines in Argentina. However, a growing number of wineries are<br />
securing international certifications for their organic and biodynamic wines. And<br />
the trend is quickly gaining traction.<br />
WITH THE ANDES MOUNTAINS AS A BACKDROP, DOMAINE BOUSQUET HAS BEEN ORGANIC SINCE ITS INCEPTION IN 1997<br />
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ARGENTINA<br />
ORGANIC<br />
JEAN BOUSQUET ENJOYING TIME WITH HIS FRIENDS AT HIS MENDOZA PROJECT<br />
The great Argentinean food journalist, Miguel Brascó, used to say that in Argentina<br />
all wines were organic without the need for certification, because the<br />
paucity of rain and abundance of sunshine in the wine regions removed the need<br />
for fertilisers in the vineyards.<br />
However, the tendency to certify vineyards is growing, as evidenced by the figures:<br />
79 wineries produce organic wines, and 69 of them export their products; the most<br />
prolific organic varietal is Malbec, and the main markets are the European Union<br />
(64%), the United Kingdom (14%), Switzerland (3%) and Japan (2%). Within the<br />
European Union, the largest destinations are Denmark and Sweden.<br />
In recent years, organic production has grown at rates of around 10% per year, and<br />
most of the wineries that have not yet certified their products are in the process of<br />
doing so. The situation could be summarised as follows: the trail has been blazed<br />
and the trend is irreversible.<br />
JEAN BOUSQUET, THE FRENCH PIONEER<br />
In 1997, Jean Bousquet sold his winery in Carcassonne and set off in search of new<br />
horizons to develop organic wines. He farmed vineyards in Chile and Argentina,<br />
until he found his place in the new world: Gualtallary, Tupungato, in Mendoza’s<br />
Uco Valley, which soon became one of the most coveted regions for Argentinean<br />
and international wineries.<br />
Some Gualtallary locals still remember the “crazy Frenchman”, who invested in<br />
land here at a time when nobody else did, and who would point to the tree tops<br />
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LÉGENDES<br />
JEAN BOUSQUET, THE FRENCH PIONEER<br />
IN GUALTALLARY<br />
GUILLAUME BOUSQUET, ANNE BOUSQUET AND LABID AL AMERI<br />
on his farm every day and say: “Look at how the leaves are moving. That wind is the<br />
key to the healthiness of this location, which is perfect for growing large vineyards”.<br />
Jean Bousquet is now one of the great advocates of organic viticulture in Argentina,<br />
with 40 hectares of vineyards and a winery entirely certified organic. All the winery’s<br />
practices are organic, using liquid organic fertilisers rich in natural nutrients and<br />
natural ground cover between the rows, among other techniques.<br />
Its 40 hectares include the following varietals: Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet<br />
Franc, Merlot, Garnacha, Mourvedre, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and<br />
Sauvignon Blanc.<br />
“All our lines are organic. We have all the certifications and matching logos, which we<br />
communicate on our labels. And we also make organic sparkling and frizzantes, which<br />
is not very common”, says a spokesperson from the winery’s marketing department.<br />
“In many markets it is a plus to offer organic or biodynamic wines. Demand for this<br />
type of wine is growing, so we know that this will be increasingly important”.<br />
Jean Bousquet markets two product lines: Santa Bax, in honour of Jean’s mother, whose<br />
surname was Bax, and Papillon. Its export markets are Brazil, Canada, Switzerland,<br />
the Netherlands and the United States.<br />
DOMAINE BOUSQUET, THE BIODYNAMIC TRAILBLAZER<br />
Domaine Bousquet has been an organic project since its foundation in 1997, in<br />
uncharted and unknown territory. Since then, everything it has developed is 100%<br />
organic. Its vineyards are located in Gualtallary.<br />
In latter years, much of the estate has switched to biodynamic viticulture and a 360˚<br />
sustainable approach has been taken in the vineyards and winery. Biodiversity is a key<br />
focus in the vineyards, as is a pioneering water conservation initiative, solar power<br />
in the winery, use of lightweight bottles and a commitment to bottling some lines<br />
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DOMAINE BOUSQUET WAS THE FOURTH WINERY IN THE WORLD TO ACHIEVE REGENERATIVE ORGANIC CERTIFICATION (ROC)<br />
in domestic markets to reduce carbon emissions. The winery has also pioneered the<br />
production of wines with no added SO₂.<br />
“We are always looking to improve and our efforts are now focused on Regenerative<br />
Viticulture, which is a natural progression beyond sustainability. We were the fourth<br />
winery in the world to achieve Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC) status in June<br />
2022 and we became B Corp certified at the end of 2022”, explains Anne Bousquet, the<br />
CEO of Domaine Bousquet.<br />
The entire portfolio of wines is organic and, from the 2022 vintage, two of its premium<br />
ranges – Ameri and Gaia – are biodynamic.<br />
“Sweden leads the way in terms of its focus on organic wine and has always been a key<br />
market for Domaine Bousquet. We met with Systembolaget almost two decades ago<br />
and at that time less than 1% of the wines sold there were organic. We offered our wines<br />
in a specific tender for organic wines, which we subsequently won. The success of this<br />
led Systembolaget to announce new tenders for organic wines, and it subsequently<br />
set a target of 20% of all wine sales to be organic by 2020. Today in Sweden, 26% of the<br />
wines sold are organic - the highest percentage in the world, as the world average is<br />
about 2% - and Domaine Bousquet continues to be successful there”, Bousquet adds.<br />
The main ranges are Domaine Bousquet Premium Varietals Virgin (with no added<br />
sulphites); Domaine Bousquet Reserve Gaia; Domaine Bousquet Gran Reserve Ameri<br />
Alavida (Kosher); Domaine Bousquet Sparkling; Domaine Bousquet Cameleon<br />
Finca Lalande.<br />
FINCA BANDINI, THE PUREST WATER IN THE ANDES<br />
In 2015, Federico Bandini from Mendoza, who lives in Houston, Texas, decided to<br />
develop a winemaking project in his native Luján de Cuyo. He christened it ‘Finca<br />
Bandini’ and entrusted the project to Carolina Pelayes, who has since become the CEO<br />
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ARGENTINA<br />
ORGANIC<br />
of the venture. Bandini acquired a 70-hectare estate on the edge of the Andes Mountains in<br />
the Las Compuertas Geographical Indication area.<br />
Finca Bandini receives the first water from the Andes, when the thaw begins, after the winter<br />
snowfalls. And that is the hallmark of the entire project.<br />
The relationship with water is so important that two of its lines bear names related to its<br />
occurrence on the estate. One is Los Muros, inspired by the locks from which water was administered<br />
for the areas of Las Compuertas and Vistalba, and the other is Dos Cauces, named<br />
after the meltwater streams of the Andes that bathe the property’s land. “The challenge was<br />
enormous”, recalls Pelayes. “We had to rebuild the estate, define an agronomic proposition<br />
from scratch, build the well and a dam, design the irrigation system, relocate more than<br />
4,000 olive trees and plant and convert 59 hectares of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet<br />
Franc and Petit Verdot, on an estate where there were only 15 hectares of vines. It was a very<br />
ambitious master plan.”<br />
In just a few years, the winery has already secured important exports to the US and Brazilian<br />
markets, with Alberto Moreno’s guidance as winemaker and consultancy by Marcelo Pelleriti, who<br />
has experience in Mendoza and Pomerol, Bordeaux, where he produced wines by Chateau La<br />
Violette and Chateau Le Gay. In addition to Los Muros (Blanc de Blancs, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon)<br />
and Dos Cauces (Blanc de Blancs, Malbec), the estate’s lines include Terroir Único Bandini<br />
House of Wines, Magno Corpore (Malbec), Bandini Malbec Rosé and the sparkling wine Aurum,<br />
made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.<br />
Finca Bandini only produces high-end wines, certified for its Good Agricultural Practices<br />
and organic techniques. “For us, the commitment is to care for the environment. We do it<br />
out of conviction, not because our distributors compel us to do so”.<br />
CAROLINA PELAYES, CEO OF FINCA BANDINI<br />
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JEAN BOUSQUET HAS 40<br />
HECTARES OF CERTIFIED<br />
ORGANIC VINEYARDS<br />
FINCA BANDINI HAS 59 HECTARES<br />
OF MALBEC, CABERNET<br />
SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC<br />
AND PETIT VERDOT<br />
GUSTAVO SANTAOLALLA,<br />
TWO-TIME ACADEMY<br />
AWARD WINNER<br />
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JUAN CARLOS CHAVERO WHO<br />
HAS BEEN TASKED WITH MAKING<br />
WINES AT CIELO Y TIERRA FROM<br />
THE START<br />
CIELO Y TIERRA, MUSICAL ROOTS<br />
Cielo y Tierra is a project that was born with musical roots, driven by the Argentinean<br />
composer Gustavo Santaolalla, winner of the Oscar for the best musical score for two consecutive<br />
years, with the films Brokeback Mountain (2005) and Babel (2006).<br />
In 2005, coinciding with his first Hollywood Academy Award, Santaolalla acquired an estate<br />
in Luján de Cuyo with eight hectares planted with Malbec, two with Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
and one with Petit Verdot, from which he created his wines Celador and Don Juan Nahuel.<br />
Winemaker Juan Carlos Chavero says that from the very beginning they made high-end<br />
wines, selling around 2,000 cases a year. In 2015, the project underwent a major change<br />
with the arrival of three new partners - Juan Pisani, Diego Bertani and Ezequiel García -<br />
who joined forces with Santaolalla and gave Cielo y Tierra a new marketing twist.<br />
“The new partners were part of the distribution company Arcombe (Argentina Comercializadora<br />
de Bebidas), which produces the vodka brands New Style and Bar & Pub’s”, explains<br />
Chavero. “In 2017, we created a mid-range wine called Callejón de las Brujas, offering great<br />
value for money, which is distributed through Arcombe’s sales channels. This allowed us<br />
to ramp up our sales and today we sell 22,000 cases a year, 80% of them under the Callejón<br />
de las Brujas brand”. Cielo y Tierra adheres to Good Agricultural Practices (GAP), with the<br />
use of natural fertilisers, and at the request of its distributors in Brazil, the company is in<br />
the process of achieving ISO 14000 certification.<br />
The next target is the European market, as Santaolalla has always aspired to marketing his<br />
wines in Europe. “Gustavo loves Europe, its wines and its music. From the outset, he asked<br />
me to make New World wines with Old World notes”, recounts Chavero. And Europe is now<br />
squarely in their sights.<br />
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MALBEC-MALBEC STEMS<br />
FROM A CO-FERMENTATION<br />
OF GRAPES FROM ALTAMIRA<br />
AND LA CONSULTA<br />
UCO VALLEY, AND ITS SUSTAINABLE WINES<br />
Located in the Uco Valley is the Uco Valley winery, producer of Kauzo, which<br />
means ‘place’ in Esperanto. Kauzo Co-fermented Malbec-Malbec is produced<br />
here, using grapes from two very traditional areas: Altamira and La Consulta.<br />
“Altamira brings fruit and minerality, and represents the backbone of our wine.<br />
La Consulta contributes to fleshiness and elegance, lending succulence as well<br />
as the soft tannins typical of Malbec”, explains Miguel Priore, the winery’s CEO.<br />
Uco Valley “works with our producers to grow grapes and produce wine in a<br />
sustainable and environmentally-friendly way. This involves using natural and<br />
organic methods to maintain the health of the vineyard and the quality of the<br />
wine, minimising the use of chemicals and synthetic pesticides. We are consolidating<br />
these practices and have already started the sustainability certification<br />
process for Bodegas de Argentina”.<br />
Malbec-Malbec is vegan and GMP certified, which is stated on the back labels.<br />
Its main markets are the United States, Brazil and Israel. Today the winery<br />
is focusing on entering the Canadian market, which is very strict in terms of<br />
environmental standards. These include the weight of the glass bottles, with a<br />
view to reducing energy consumption, carbon footprint and logistics costs, and<br />
the marketing of wines with organic, biodynamic or sustainable certifications.<br />
“Although they are a challenge for us, we approach all these variables with a very<br />
positive attitude, convinced that they are in line with our philosophy and contribute<br />
to compromising the needs of future generations as little as possible”,<br />
says Priore.<br />
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CANTINE VOLPI<br />
FROM ‘OSTERIA’ TO CUTTING-EDGE<br />
PIEDMONT ADVOCATE<br />
BY ELLEN BUDGE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY<br />
OF THE WINERY<br />
Cantine Volpi is the epitome of what Italy does best – fusing native grape varieties<br />
and tradition with innovative winemaking techniques and astute marketing.<br />
Fifth-generation winegrower Marco Volpi pinpoints some of the landmark<br />
moments in the company’s 100-year history, and details its plans for the future.<br />
CARLO VOLPI (LEFT) WITH HIS SON MARCO, WHOSE WINERY IS STRATEGICALLY LOCATED AT THE CROSSROADS OF FOUR MAJOR ITALIAN WINE<br />
REGIONS – PIEDMONT, LOMBARDY, EMILIA-ROMAGNA AND LIGURIA<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
CASCINA ‘LA ZERBA’, SET AMIDST THE ROLLING COLLI TORTONESI, WAS BOUGHT BY THE VOLPI FAMILY IN 2003 AND IS NOW THE HOME OF THE<br />
WINERY’S NEW TASTING ROOM<br />
Everything about the Tortona area in Italy’s storied Piedmont region speaks wine. Its<br />
rolling hills are clad with neat rows of vineyards that follow the lay of the land and<br />
are home to varieties that were once on the brink of extinction. Cantine Volpi has played<br />
a pivotal part in resurrecting a tradition of winegrowing that dates back to the ancient<br />
Romans, and its own history mirrors many of the milestones along Italy’s wine journey.<br />
“Cantine Volpi started in 1914 as a small winery that was complementary to a local ‘Osteria’<br />
or typical traditional restaurant. The family would produce the wine that was entirely sold<br />
in their own restaurant”, recounts Marco Volpi, who joined his father Carlo Volpi and wife<br />
Laura at the winery in 2019.<br />
INCREMENTAL PROGRESS<br />
A major turning point in the company’s history occurred in 1957 when the winery in<br />
Viguzzolo was built to produce wines from the local Tortona hills. In 1962, the most modern<br />
winery in Tortona for maturing and bottling wines broke ground, paving the way for Cantine<br />
Volpi to blaze the trail for quality by securing a controlled designation of origin or DOC for<br />
its wines in the 1970s. Fast forward to 2019 and the company invested over one million euros<br />
in a state-of-the-art winery which superseded the Viguzzolo facilities and now handles<br />
the entire production process, from fermenting the grapes to packaging the end wines.<br />
The winery is equipped to control temperatures and reduce its energy consumption whilst<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
also lowering its carbon footprint by centralising<br />
its operations. Along its 100-year journey, Cantine<br />
Volpi has ramped up production which now totals<br />
some 2.5 million bottles, spanning a number of<br />
prized DOCs and DOCGs, including Barolo, Gavi,<br />
Barbera d’Asti and Colli Tortonesi. The fruit is<br />
sourced from 20 hectares of its own vineyards,<br />
planted to Timorasso, Barbera, Dolcetto, Moscato<br />
and Cortese, complemented by Sangiovese and<br />
Pinot Grigio grapes bought from partner growers<br />
over 100 hectares of vineyards.<br />
ALONGSIDE CLASSIC ITALIAN VARIETALS, CANTINE VOLPI ALSO MAKES TIMORASSO,<br />
RECENTLY DESCRIBED BY THE WINE SPECTATOR AS “ONE OF ITALY’S MOST EXCITING<br />
WHITE WINE STORIES”<br />
FROM EXCITING NATIVE GRAPES<br />
TO RANGE STAPLES<br />
CANTINE VOLPI COMBINES INNOVATIVE WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES WITH<br />
TIME-HONOURED TRADITIONS<br />
The winery’s varietal range features Italian classics<br />
but also the much lesser-known white Timorasso<br />
cultivar, described by renowned UK wine<br />
merchants Berry Bros & Rudd as “one of the most<br />
exciting Italian autochthonous grape varieties to<br />
surface in recent years”. Its popularity is echoed<br />
in the surge in plantings over the past few years –<br />
after virtually falling into oblivion twenty years<br />
ago, 400 hectares are now planted to this native<br />
grape of the Colli Tortonesi. Cantine Volpi celebrates<br />
the variety in its flagship white label Timorasso<br />
Derthona, which Marco Volpi describes as<br />
“an outstanding white wine with many similarities<br />
to red wines, like its body, structure and<br />
amazing ageing potential”. Timorasso’s red<br />
alter ego at the winery is Barbera, its original<br />
mainstay: “I always mention the fact that Barbera<br />
is the reason why we exist”, stresses Volpi. “It was<br />
the first grape we grew more than 100 years ago<br />
and the first wine we ever sold in our Osteria”.<br />
Moscato, another historic variety for the winery,<br />
also joins its varietal line-up.<br />
ORGANIC WINES KEY TO<br />
DEVELOPING EXPORTS<br />
But whilst Cantine Volpi treasures its long-standing<br />
history of growing wines, it also has its sights<br />
permanently set on the future. “At the end of the<br />
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ITALY<br />
FOCUS<br />
1990s, my father understood that the Italian market was going into a huge decline<br />
in consumption and decided to try and find new openings in export markets”,<br />
recounts Marco Volpi. The decision proved to be extremely judicious and 80% of<br />
the wines are now shipped abroad. To gain a foothold in overseas markets, Cantine<br />
Volpi chose to step up its environmental commitments and go down the organic<br />
route, among other strategic decisions. “Organic wines are the reason we have<br />
been able to open up and develop the export market. Now we are trying to focus<br />
on turning most of our vineyards and wines from Piedmont organic”. The organic<br />
labels have been particularly successful in the United States and, predictably,<br />
the Nordic countries, where sales have grown apace over the past twenty years.<br />
The winery is continuing to build on these achievements by focusing on other<br />
sustainable practices: “we use techniques like green manure to enhance biodiversity”,<br />
explains Volpi. In 2022, the company started and completed the formalisation<br />
and consolidation process of practices and procedures aimed at achieving<br />
the sustainable ‘Equalitas’ certification scheme. The initiative dovetails with the<br />
guiding principles at the winery, where respect is shown for the environment and<br />
employees, the local area is the focal point of promotion and progress in quality is<br />
incremental through the use of new technologies.<br />
MARCO VOLPI WAS RANKED AMONG THE MOST PROMISING UNDER-30S IN THE WORLD OF<br />
FOOD AND BEVERAGE BY THE S.PELLEGRINO AND ACQUA PANNA DIGITAL MAGAZINE IN 2020<br />
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MARCO AND CARLO VOLPI<br />
INTEND TO FOCUS ON<br />
PROMOTING PIEDMONT AND<br />
ITS NATIVE GRAPE VARIETIES<br />
USING INNOVATION TO COPE WITH A CHANGING<br />
CLIMATE<br />
There is every likelihood that technology and native grapes may hold the key<br />
for coping with issues like climate change in the future. This year, Tortona only<br />
received 300 mm of rain over the first eight months of the year – and 80 mm in just<br />
24 hours – compared with an annual average ranging from 800 to 1,100 mm. Whilst<br />
recognising that climate change is a challenge, the Volpi family is again planning to<br />
stay ahead of the curve: “We are changing vineyard management techniques, like<br />
keeping the grapes more covered, but also looking into innovations like hailstorm<br />
nets and creating water reserves like small lakes close to the vineyards in order to<br />
have water supplies in case of emergencies”.<br />
PIEDMONT AND NATIVE GRAPES AS A FOCUS<br />
Alongside innovative techniques, the winery’s focus will also be on promoting Piedmont<br />
and its native grape varieties, which have proven to be effective at opening<br />
up new markets, both at home and abroad. In a challenging global wine market,<br />
Timorasso offers great opportunities in the on-trade worldwide whilst also helping<br />
to unearth new opportunities in emerging markets like South Korea, Vietnam and<br />
Mexico. As an economics graduate with work experience gained from a four-year<br />
stint in supply chain management and commerce at the Heineken group, Marco<br />
Volpi is well-equipped to continue in his family’s footsteps and honour the legacy of<br />
his ancestor Cristina Volpi and her two sons who laid the company’s foundations on<br />
the eve of the Great War. The fifth-generation family representative intends to wage<br />
and win his battle by combining history, the unique attributes of his home region<br />
and ability to adapt to a constantly changing market and environment.<br />
116 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
MICHAEL DOUGLAS:<br />
“I DISCOVERED AND LEARNED<br />
TO ENJOY WINE IN FRANCE”<br />
BY FRANK ROUSSEAU,<br />
OUR CORRESPONDENT IN LOS ANGELES<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />
There’s no denying that at 79, Michael Douglas could be enjoying a welldeserved<br />
retirement, relaxing on the white sand beaches beneath the<br />
coconut trees or sipping rosé after a game of golf in the Bahamas. Given<br />
his successful career and countless box office hits, nobody would have<br />
held it against him. But that’s not who the prolific and tireless offspring<br />
of Kirk – aka Spartacus – is. More active than ever, he should soon<br />
feature in a biopic on Benjamin Franklin, one of the founding fathers of<br />
the United States of America. In the meantime, let’s raise a toast to this<br />
lover of fine fare and most Francophile of stars!<br />
In ‘Disclosure’, filmed in 1994, you had a scene with Demi Moore involving<br />
a very unusual bottle of wine…<br />
Yes, it was a bottle of 1991 Napa Valley Pahlmeyer Chardonnay, a very difficult<br />
wine to find. In his book, Michael Crichton referred to a wine that was very<br />
hard to come by, but without actually mentioning its name. The script writer,<br />
Paul Attanasio, had read an article that mentioned a very sought-after wine,<br />
but he couldn’t find it. Ultimately, it was Demi Moore who managed to get<br />
hold of a magnum of 1991 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay. She gave the magnum<br />
to the producer Barry Levinson. The scene was shot and the wine became<br />
a Hollywood star and gained worldwide recognition for the winery, which<br />
chose not to increase production, though, making it even more rare. As an<br />
aside, Barry took the magnum and didn’t share it with the crew! (laughs)<br />
Is it true that during shooting of ’20,000 Leagues Under the Sea’, your dad,<br />
the late Kirk Douglas who played a sailor, drank real rum?<br />
It was the first time I ever saw someone drunk play a guitar with a turtle shell!<br />
(laughs) My father played a guy who liked to drink. He was very convincing!<br />
But it was water! One day, I asked him what he drank on the set of ‘Vikings’<br />
and he swore it was grape juice. You know what? I had my doubts. As you<br />
know, Kirk was a real Francophile. In fact, his knowledge of French wines<br />
was like his career – phenomenal!<br />
In 2010, a biopsy revealed you had tongue cancer. For the lover of fine<br />
fare that you are, wasn’t that a real blow?<br />
After the diagnosis, I underwent an intensive course of chemotherapy<br />
and radiotherapy for two months. The radiation burnt the inside of my<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
117
MICHAEL DOUGLAS WITH FRANK ROUSSEAU<br />
MICHAEL DOUGLAS WITH HIS WIFE CATHERINE ZETA-JONES<br />
mouth, so much so that it became almost impossible for me to eat. When I would drink<br />
Tempranillo, it felt like I was drinking something horrible. I couldn’t taste or smell the<br />
cherry aromas, the ripe berries or the fruitiness of this iconic Rioja wine that I love so<br />
much. Since then I have regained my sense of taste.<br />
Are you a fan of French wines?<br />
Of course! I discovered and learned to enjoy wine in France. That was way before I<br />
started going to the Cannes film festival. As a young student, I decided to treat myself<br />
to a little hitch-hiking trip around Europe. We were due to join Sam Spiegel, a friend<br />
of my father’s who owned a yacht in Saint-Tropez! On board, Sam served me a nicely<br />
chilled rosé. It was a revelation! I also used a good bottle of rosé to seduce the woman<br />
who would become my wife and the mother of my children at the Deauville film festival!<br />
When I found out that Catherine (Zeta-Jones) was on the verge of leaving for Scotland<br />
to shoot ‘Entrapment’, I made arrangements so that she received an enormous bouquet<br />
of roses and a bottle of… rosé!<br />
As the person who played trader Gordon Gekko in ‘Wall Street’, what would you recommend<br />
we invest in?<br />
I would imagine it’s easier to invest in gold than it is in wine! Well of course, because<br />
you’re not tempted to drink your capital! (laughs) But when I see the price tags of some<br />
prestige labels, I wonder if it’s perhaps a better idea to cellar some fine wines rather<br />
than store gold ingots in a safe!<br />
118 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
CONTACT<br />
DETAILS<br />
South-West - Pages 10-22<br />
• Maison Labastide: Tel. +33 5 63 53 73 73 -<br />
www.cave-labastide.com<br />
• Château Terride: Tel. +33 5 63 33 26 63 -<br />
https://chateaudeterride.com<br />
• Domaine La Croix des Marchand :<br />
Tel. +33 5 63 57 19 71 - www.croix-des-marchands.fr<br />
• Château Baudare: Tel. +33 5 63 30 51 33 -<br />
https://baudare.com/contact<br />
• Château Bellevue la Forêt: Tel. +33 6 86 44 13 94 -<br />
www.chateaubellevuelaforet.com<br />
• Château Lestevenie: Tel. + 33 7 63 03 11 91 -<br />
www.chateaulestevenie.com<br />
• Château Poulvère: Tel. +33 5 53 58 30 25 -<br />
www.poulvere.com<br />
• Vignobles Borie: Tel. +33 6 34 40 57 57 -<br />
www.chateaulaforet-bergerac.com<br />
• Domaine Nigri: Tel. +33 5 59 21 42 01 -<br />
www.jurancon-domainenigri.com<br />
Beaujolais - Pages 24-33<br />
• Maison Coquard: Tel. +33 4 74 71 11 59 -<br />
www.maison-coquard.com<br />
• Château du Bluizard: Tel. +33 4 74 03 30 90 -<br />
www.chateaudubluizard.com<br />
• Domaine du Père Benoit: Tel. +33 4 74 66 81 20 -<br />
www.domaine-pere-benoit.fr<br />
• Domaines Chermette:<br />
Tel. +33 4 74 71 79 42 - www.chermette.fr<br />
• Domaine de Baluce: Tel. +33 6 83 88 26 28 -<br />
www.baluce.fr<br />
• Maison Jean Loron: Tel. +33 3 85 36 81 20 -<br />
vinloron@loron.fr<br />
Portugal - Pages 34-43<br />
• José Maria da Fonseca:<br />
Tel. +351 212 198 940 - www.jmfonseca.pt<br />
• Aveleda: Tel. +351 255 718 200 - www.aveleda.pt<br />
• Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães:<br />
Tel. +351 253 570 055 – www.adegaguimaraes.pt<br />
• Adega de Cantanhede:<br />
Tel. +351 231 419 540 - www.cantanhede.com<br />
• João Portugal Ramos: Tel. +351 268 339 910 -<br />
www.jportugalramos.pt<br />
South Africa - Pages 44-53<br />
• Spier: Tel. +27 21 809 1100 - www.spier.co.za<br />
• De Trafford: Tel. +27 21 880 1611 -<br />
www.detrafford.co.za<br />
• Glenelly: Tel. +27 21 809 6440 -<br />
www.glenellyestate.com<br />
• David Finlayson Wines: Tel. +27 (0)83 263 4353 -<br />
www.edgebaston.co.za<br />
• Keermont: Tel. +27 21 880 0397 -<br />
www.keermont.co.za<br />
• Waterford: Tel. +27 21 880 5300 -<br />
www.waterfordestate.co.za<br />
• Alto: Tel. +27 21 881 3884 - www.alto.co.za<br />
• Deux Freres: Tel. +27 21 889 9865 -<br />
www.dfwines.co.za<br />
• Simonsig: Tel. +27 21 888 4900 -<br />
www.simonsig.co.za<br />
• Cavalli: Tel. +27 21 855 3218 -<br />
www.cavalliestate.com<br />
• Ernie Els: Tel. +27 21 881 3588 -<br />
www.ernieelswines.com<br />
• Stellenbosch Hills: Tel. + 27 21 881 3828/9 -<br />
www.stellenbosch-hills.co.za<br />
• Thelema: Tel. +27 21 8851924 - www.thelema.co.za<br />
• Stark-Condé: Tel. +27 21 861 7700 -<br />
www.stark-conde.co.za<br />
• Kaapzicht: Tel. +27 21 906 1620 -<br />
www.kaapzicht.co.za<br />
• Bartinney: Tel. +27 21 885 1013 -<br />
www.bartinney.co.za<br />
• Peter Falke: Tel. +27 21 881 3677 -<br />
www.peterfalkewines.com<br />
• Tokara: Tel. +27 21 808 5900 - www.tokara.com<br />
• Kanonkop: Tel. +27 21 884 4656 -<br />
www.kanonkop.co.za<br />
• Kleine Zalze: Tel. +27 21 880 0717 -<br />
www.kleinezalze.co.za<br />
Lebanon - Pages 53-63<br />
• Domaine Wardy: Tel. +961 8 930141 -<br />
www.domainewardy.com<br />
• Château Héritage: Tel. +961 8 500609 -<br />
www.chateauheritage.com<br />
• Château Kefraya: Tel. 961 1 485207 -<br />
www.chateaukefraya.com<br />
• Château Trois Collines :<br />
Tel. +961 1 380664 - www.troiscollines.com<br />
• Chateau Ka: Tel. + 961 1 899 888 - www.kassatly.net<br />
• Château Ksara: Tel. +961-8-813495 -<br />
www.chateauksara.com<br />
• IXSIR: Tel. +961 9 22 33 50/1 - www.ixsir.com<br />
• Château Fakra:<br />
Tel. +961 9 635 111 - www.fakra.com<br />
Nursery - Pages 64-68<br />
• Groupe Mercier: Tel. : +33 2 51 00 65 14 -<br />
www.pepinieres-mercier.com<br />
Italy - Pages 69-78<br />
• Arione Wines: Tel. +39 0141 855 116 - www.arione.it<br />
• Bosca Spa: Tel. +390141967711 - www.bosca.it<br />
• Casa Vinicola Canella: Tel. +39.0421.52446 or<br />
+39.0421.53419 - www.bellinicanella.com<br />
• Perlino Spa:<br />
Tel. +39 (0)141 446811 - www.perlino.com<br />
• Spinato: Tel. +39 0422 857927 - www.spinato.it<br />
• Cantine Sgarzi Luigi: Tel. 39 051 940962 -<br />
www.cantinesgarzi.com<br />
Medoc - Pages 79-88<br />
• Les Vignerons d’Uni-Médoc:<br />
Tel. +33 5 56 41 03 12 - www.unimedoc.com<br />
• Producta Vignobles:<br />
Tel. +33 5 57 81 18 18 - www.producta.com<br />
• Château Carménère: Tel. +33 6 52 70 63 28 -<br />
www.chateau-carmenere.fr<br />
• Domaines Rollan de By: Tel. +33 5 56 41 58 59 -<br />
www.domaines-rollandeby.com<br />
• Château Vieux Robin: Tel. +335 56 41 50 64 -<br />
www.chateau-vieux-robin.com<br />
Scandinavia - Pages 89-93<br />
• Anora: Tel. +358 207 013 013 - anora.com<br />
Rhone Valley - Pages 94-103<br />
• Domaine Saint Amant: Tel. +33 4 90 62 99 25-<br />
www.domainesaintamant.com<br />
• Domaine Lucien Tramier:<br />
Tel. +33 9 66 83 00 89 - www.lucientramier.fr<br />
• Gigondas La Cave:<br />
Tel. +33 4 90 65 86 27 - www.cave-gigondas.fr<br />
• Famille Cheron: Tel. +33 4.90.65.85.91 -<br />
www.famillecheron.com<br />
• Clos Safranier: Tel. +33 6 76 76 43 01 -<br />
www.lafoliesafranier.com<br />
• Maison Lumian & Bonnefoy:<br />
Tel. +33 9 75 66 62 30 -<br />
www.lumianbonnefoy.com/rouge<br />
• Domaine Le Mirabeau: Tel. +33 6 03 26 97 96 -<br />
www.domainelemirabeau.fr<br />
• Domaine Saint Vincent: Tel. +33 4.75.27.61.10 -<br />
www.domaine-saint-vincent.com<br />
Argentina - Pages 104-111<br />
• Domaine Bousquet: Tel. +54 9 2612 42-8489 -<br />
www.domainebousquet.com<br />
• Finca Bandini: +54 9 2613 46-1869 -<br />
www.fincabandini.com.ar<br />
• Cielo y Tierra: +54 9 11 5663-8627 -<br />
www.cieloytierrasa.com.ar<br />
• Uco Valley: +54 9 2617 60-2578<br />
Italy / Piedmont - Pages 112-116<br />
• Cantine Volpi : Tel. +39 0131 861072 -<br />
https://www.cantinevolpi.it/en-us/<br />
AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
119
PAGES 121 TO 130<br />
TOP WINES<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
AN INTENSE THIRD ROUND OF TASTINGS IN 2023<br />
Despite the summer holiday season and short break in August, the pace of our tastings<br />
has remained brisk. Wines from Eastern Europe continue to grow and South America is<br />
increasingly gaining traction, particularly Argentina - where we opened an office in Mendoza<br />
in the spring – along with Chile and Uruguay, the continent’s three long-standing producer<br />
countries. Of course Europe remains in the majority with its robust trio France-Italy-Spain,<br />
but variety is the name of the game with strong growth from Portugal, as well as Lebanon and<br />
Greece for example. You could say this is globalisation in a good way!<br />
PICKING GRAPES BY HAND IN THE RHONE VALLEY WITH VIEWS OVER THE DENTELLES DE MONTMIRAIL<br />
THE BEST OF AUTUMN 2023<br />
Our selection, tasted and rated by our panel, is presented on pages 121 to 130. As always, we have chosen to<br />
present the wines by country (SOUTH AFRICA, PORTUGAL…) then by appellation in each region with<br />
each company or winery listed in alphabetical order and in descending order of their scores. You will also<br />
find in this issue our selection of Cabernet Sauvignon wines from South Africa, Portuguese wines, bottlings<br />
from South-West France, six gems from the southern Rhone Valley and also low alcohol or alcohol-free<br />
Italian wines, a trend that is increasingly gaining currency internationally.<br />
THE TASTING PANEL:<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT - OLIVIER DELORME – GONZALO FERNANDEZ - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - BRUNO MICHAL – GERALDINE SPENCER - JAMES TURNBULL<br />
120 AUTUMN 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA - WESTERN CAPE<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Here is a selection of Cabernet<br />
Sauvignons from the Western Cape like<br />
you have never seen before. These sixty<br />
or so wines offer irrefutable evidence of<br />
the fact that the wine region features<br />
among the highest quality in the<br />
world, ranking alongside Bordeaux,<br />
Napa, Sonoma, Mendoza and the more<br />
recently discovered Margaret River.<br />
NORTHERN CAPE<br />
NORTHERN CAPE<br />
THE HEDGEHOG 87/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 4.50<br />
Orange River Cellars +27 543 378 800<br />
THE HEDGEHOG 85/100<br />
CR D RUBY CABERNET 2020<br />
http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 4.00<br />
Orange River Cellars +27 543 378 800<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
BARTINNEY 95/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Dark<br />
ruby. Blackberry fruit and cassis on the dark<br />
fruit nose. Palate is full and rich with layers of<br />
dark fruit, jam and black forrest cake. Spicy<br />
and leathery on the complex and rich aftertaste.<br />
A big wine that will age for many years. Drin<br />
through 2030.<br />
http://www.bartinney.co.za Price: € 32.00<br />
Bartinney Private Cellar +27 21 885 1013<br />
BARTINNEY 94/100<br />
CR D SKYFALL 2018: Dark ruby. Dark fruit<br />
and plum on the rich nose. Grippy and full on<br />
the dry and complex palate. Layers of cassis<br />
and dark fruit on the aftertaste with a spicy and<br />
leathery note on the finish. Big and bold. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
http://www.bartinney.co.za Price: € 49.50<br />
Bartinney Private Cellar +27 21 885 1013<br />
PETER FALKE 92/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Deep<br />
plum with concentrated core. Medley of dark<br />
berries, cassis, spearmint and oak spice. Superb<br />
capacity to carry all aspects to palate. Medium<br />
to full bodied with an equality of tannins, which<br />
shows early integration. Great ageing potential.<br />
http://www.peterfalkewines.com Price: € 30.00<br />
Peter Falke Wines +27 21 881 3677<br />
PETER FALKE 91/100<br />
D SIGNATURE KAILANI CABERNET<br />
SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark red with haze. Ripe<br />
nuances, dark fruit, licorice. New oak elevate<br />
the tannin structure, but coated with fruit and<br />
savoury characters. Further cellaring is highly<br />
recommended.<br />
http://www.peterfalkewines.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Peter Falke Wines +27 21 881 3677<br />
GOEDE HOOP 90/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015: Dark ruby<br />
brick. Tea-leaf and mint on the developed nose.<br />
Leathery spice on the matured palate with sour<br />
cherry and cranberry on the aftertaste. Leather<br />
and forest floor on the smooth finish. A fine<br />
wine. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 12.50<br />
Goede Hoop Wine Estate +27 81 283 1618<br />
SARAH’S CREEK WINES 90/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Ruby<br />
garnet. Smoky nose with violets and dark<br />
berry fruit. Grippy tannins and tomato-leaf on<br />
the palate with a hint of blackberry and cigar.<br />
Structured and complex. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.sarahscreek.co.za Price: € 4.00<br />
Sarah’s Creek Wines +27 21 300 1731<br />
FINLAYSON REVEALS THE INTRICATE TAPESTRY OF HOW THE STELLENBOSCH WARDS CONTRIBUTE TO CRAFTING A HALLMARK CABERNET SAUVIGNON.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
121
SOUTH AFRICA - BREEDEKLOOF<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
WATERFORD ESTATE 90/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Ruby<br />
garnet with brick red rim. Subdued nose with<br />
dried fruit and red cherry. Developed palate with<br />
spice and sour cherry on the grippy aftertaste.<br />
Rhubarb tartness follows on the sour cherry<br />
finish. Drink through 2026.<br />
http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: € 36.00<br />
Waterford Estate +27 21 880 5300<br />
BLUE MOOSE 88/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHIRAZ 2021<br />
http://www.grapegrinder.com Price: € 8.50<br />
The Grape Grinder +27 218 633 943<br />
PIERRE DUMONT 87/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 11.00<br />
Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601<br />
CARLSHEIM 86/100<br />
D RED BLEND 2022<br />
Price: € 5.50<br />
Koelenhof Winery + 27 218 652 020<br />
PIERRE DUMONT 85/100<br />
D SEVEN CENTURIES 2022<br />
http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 11.00<br />
Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601<br />
WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE<br />
RIVER VALLEY<br />
BREEDEKLOOF<br />
SEVEN OAKS 91/100<br />
D NIL NISI OPTIMUM 1 : Deep ruby with<br />
brick red rim. Red cherry and tea leaf on the rich<br />
nose. Palate is complex and layered with pencil<br />
shavings, cigar and mulberry on the lengthy<br />
aftertaste. Well structured and integrated.<br />
Drink through 2028.<br />
Price: € 7.50<br />
Seven Oaks +27 836 390 405<br />
MOUNTAIN RIDGE 81/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www.mountainridge.co.za Price: € 4.50<br />
Mountain Ridge +27 230 041 492<br />
ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE<br />
GABRIEL & GYSBERT 92/100<br />
D KWARTSKOP 2022: Ruby garnet with<br />
brick red rime. Tea-leaf and eucalyptus on the<br />
herbaceous nose. Sour cherry, blackberry and<br />
dried prunes on the matured palate. Fine and<br />
grainy tannins on the rich and layered aftertaste.<br />
Drink through 2026.<br />
https://www.gabrielgysbert.com Price: € 12.50<br />
Gabriel & Gysbert Wines +27 762 569 445<br />
LOZÄRN 91/100<br />
CR D KAY’S LEGACY 2020: Ruby with brick<br />
red rim. Spice and leather on the red berry nose.<br />
Developed palate with eucalyptus and tea-leaf<br />
following from the nose. Layered and complex<br />
on the rich aftertaste. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 2.50<br />
Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093<br />
WORCESTER<br />
BRANDVLEI WYNKELDER 87/100<br />
D HALFTIEN 2022<br />
https://www.bcwines.co.za/ Price: € 1.10<br />
Brandvlei Wines +27 23 340 4215<br />
WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL<br />
REGION<br />
CAPE TOWN - PHILADELPHIA<br />
CAPAIA 92/100<br />
D ONE 2020: Deep garnet. Toasty nose with<br />
dark fruit and leather. Palate is dry and layered<br />
with dried prune and plum on the aftertaste.<br />
Grainy tannins on the dry and rich finish.<br />
Complex and finessed. Drink through 2028.<br />
Price: € 8.50<br />
Capaia Wine Estate +27 219 721 081<br />
COASTAL REGION<br />
OU KALANT 88/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www.manwines.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 218 617 759<br />
DRIEBERGEN 87/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www.cronierwines.com Price: € 5.50<br />
Cronier Wines +27 218 722 643<br />
DARLING<br />
SIGNATURE RANGE 86/100<br />
D INKSPOT 2022<br />
http://www.cloof.co.za Price: € 6.00<br />
Cloof Wine Estate +27 22 492 2839<br />
SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH<br />
DEUX FRERES 96/100<br />
CR D TRIBUTE 2020: Very dark ruby. Tealeaf<br />
and eucalyptus on the rich nose. Palate is<br />
refined and layered with hints of blackberry,<br />
cassis and dried prune on the aftertaste. A well<br />
structured wine with a grainy tannin on the<br />
finish. A big wine. Drink through 2030.<br />
https://www.dfwines.co.za Price: € 43.00<br />
Deux Frères Wines +27 21 889 9865<br />
DEUX FRERES 95/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Very<br />
dark ruby. Blackberry jam and dried prunes on<br />
the rich nose. Palate is refined and complex with<br />
layers of leather, spice and cigar. Dry and grainy<br />
on the lengthy aftertaste. Made to age. Drink<br />
through 2030.<br />
https://www.dfwines.co.za Price: € 40.00<br />
Deux Frères Wines +27 21 889 9865<br />
GLENELLY 95/100<br />
CR D LADY MAY 2017: Dark ruby, attractive<br />
core depth and brightness. Dark cassis fruit<br />
coated by oak spice and touch of toasted oak.<br />
Carries well to palate. A broad mid structure<br />
carries from start to finish. Expressive wine<br />
without being aggressive. Further cellaring<br />
highly recommended.<br />
http://www.glenellyestate.com Price: 4000<br />
Glenelly +27 21 809 6440<br />
SIMONSIG 94/100<br />
D THE GARLAND 2018: Bright ruby, good<br />
core depth, youthful appearance. Sense of purity<br />
and place. Primary and secondary nuances of<br />
freshness and spice. Tannins elegant and already<br />
showing timeous integration. Good length.<br />
Ageing potential of 10+years.<br />
http://www.simonsig.co.za Price: € 166.50<br />
Simonsig Estate Wine +27 21 8884900<br />
QUOIN ROCK 93/100<br />
D SIMONSBERG BLEND 2020: Dark garnet.<br />
Ripe prunes and plum on the dark berry nose.<br />
Juicy and jammy on the sour cherry palate with<br />
a hint of leathery spice on the dry and lengthy<br />
finish. Rich and complex. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.quoinrock.com Price: € 15.40<br />
Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740<br />
THELEMA 93/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Dark<br />
ruby with brick red rim. Eucalyptus and tealeaf<br />
on the dark berry nose. Palate is refined<br />
and complex with dark fruit and cassis on the<br />
layered and integrated palate. Full and rich on<br />
the leathery aftertaste. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.thelema.co.za Price: € 34.00<br />
Thelema Mountain Vineyards +27 21 885 1924<br />
122 AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA - STELLENBOSCH<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
KANONKOP 92/100<br />
D ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019:<br />
Deep ruby with brick red rim. Buchu, plum and<br />
ripe prunes on the matured palate. Palate is rich<br />
and structured with a sour cherry note on the<br />
fine and grainy aftertaste. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.kanonkop.co.za Price: € 30.00<br />
Kanonkop Wine Estate +27 21 8844 656<br />
QUOIN ROCK 91/100<br />
D SIMONSBERG BLEND 2019: Dark ruby<br />
brick. Developed nose with sweet spice. Leather<br />
and dark berry fruit on the full palate with a<br />
pithy cranberry note on the red apple aftertaste.<br />
Layered and complex. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.quoinrock.com Price: € 15.30<br />
Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740<br />
STELLENBOSCH<br />
DE TRAFFORD 95/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark ruby<br />
brick. Matured nose with hints of leather and<br />
spice. Grippy palate with dried fruit and cassis.<br />
Well structured and layered on the lengthy and<br />
full aftertaste. Will age well. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
Price: € 22.50<br />
De Trafford +27 21 880 1611<br />
ERNIE ELS 95/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Very<br />
dark ruby. Cassis and mulberry on the dark fruit<br />
nose. Cigarbox and leather on the palate with<br />
dark fruit following from the nose. Grippy on the<br />
finish with a rhubarb tartness on the aftertaste.<br />
Made to age. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.ernieelswines.com Price: € 12.50<br />
Ernie Els Wines +27 21 881 3588<br />
TOKARA RESERVE 95/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Dark<br />
ruby. Chocolate and cassis on the smoky nose.<br />
Red cherry and mocha follows on the dark berry<br />
palate with a well rounded acidity and integrated<br />
tannin. Full and layered on the aftertaste. Drink<br />
through 2030.<br />
http://www.tokara.com Price: € 38.50<br />
Tokara +27 21 808 5913<br />
21 GABLES 94/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Deep ruby.<br />
Tomato-leaf and blackberry nose. Palate is rich<br />
and full with a grippy tannin and leathery spice<br />
on the well structured and lengthy aftertaste.<br />
A fine example that will age well. Complex and<br />
layered. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.spier.co.za Price: € 17.50<br />
Spier Wines +27 21 881 8400<br />
ALTO WINE ESTATES IS LOCATED IN A PICTURE-POSTCARD SETTING, ON THE SLOPES OF THE<br />
HELDERBERG.<br />
ASARA 94/100<br />
D THE BELL TOWER 2019: Deep ruby.<br />
Mulberry and blackberry and cassis on the rich<br />
nose. Tea leaf and cigar on the savoury and rich<br />
palate with grippy tannins on the structured and<br />
full bodied aftertaste. Made to age. Excellent.<br />
Cellar for 10 years or more.<br />
http://www.asara.co.za Price: € 20.00<br />
Asara Wine Estate +27 21 888 8000<br />
FAMILY RESERVE 94/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Dark plum<br />
red, with core depth. Attractive sense of purity<br />
and equality on introduction to the wine. Dark<br />
chocolate coated cherries, also carries to palate.<br />
Ripe, but finely knitted tannins, almost graphite<br />
powder. High density mid structure and ends on<br />
a full bodied length. Aging potential excellent.<br />
http://www.kleinezalze.co.za Price: € 45.00<br />
Kleine Zalze +27 21 880 0717<br />
KAAPZICHT 94/100<br />
D SKEMERLIG CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
2020: Deep ruby. Prunes and plum on the dark<br />
fruit nose. Palate is developed, but rich and<br />
complex. Dried dark fruit follows from the nose<br />
with licorice and spice on the grippy aftertaste.<br />
Made to age. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.kaapzicht.co.za Price: € 30.00<br />
Kaapzicht +27 21 906 1620<br />
ALTO 93/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Dark<br />
garnet with brick red rim. Dried prune and plum<br />
on the rich nose. Sour cherry and strawberry on<br />
the well integrated, but grippy palate. Smooth<br />
and layered on the refined aftertaste. Drink<br />
through 2027.<br />
http://www.alto.co.za Price: € 25.70<br />
Alto Wine Estate +27 21 881 3884<br />
CAVALLI 93/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Ruby<br />
brick. Subdued nose with red cherry and tealeaf.<br />
Sour cherry and cassis on the palate with<br />
a red cherry and ripe berry note on the lengthy<br />
finish. Layered and complex on the aftertaste.<br />
Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.cavallistud.com/ Price: € 25.00<br />
Cavalli Estate +27 218 553 218<br />
DAVID FINLAYSON 93/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Dark ruby.<br />
Dark fruit nose with cassis and mulberry. Tealeaf<br />
and red cherry on the grippy palate. Wellintegrated<br />
oak with a cigar-box spice on the sour<br />
cherry aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink<br />
through 2030.<br />
http://www.edgebaston.co.za Price: € 10.00<br />
Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572<br />
AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
123
SOUTH AFRICA - STELLENBOSCH<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
WATERFORD ESTATE 93/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2015: Brick<br />
red. Developed nose with dried fruits and<br />
leather. Spice and red cherry follows on the<br />
well integrated palate with a black forrest cake<br />
note on the aftertaste. A fine wine from a fine<br />
vintage. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.waterfordestate.co.za Price: € 44.50<br />
Waterford Estate +27 21 880 5300<br />
CAVALLI 92/100<br />
D WARLORD 2020: Dark garnet. Rich nose<br />
with hints of cassis and plum. Grippy on the<br />
smoky palate with a touch of leather on the dark<br />
fruit and dark chocolate aftertaste. A big wine<br />
that will age well. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.cavallistud.com/ Price: € 28.50<br />
Cavalli Estate +27 218 553 218<br />
KEERMONT 92/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Dark<br />
ruby. Blackberry fruit and plum on the cigar<br />
box nose. Eucalyptus and dark berry fruit<br />
follows on the palate with a refined tannin and<br />
well integrated acidity. Great example. Drink<br />
through 2030.<br />
http://www.keermont.co.za Price: € 17.00<br />
Keermont +27 218 800 397<br />
STELLENBOSCH HILLS 92/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018: Ruby<br />
brick. Mature nose with raisins and prunes.<br />
Grippy palate with red cherry and pencil<br />
shavings. Fine and grainy tannins on the red<br />
cherry aftertaste with a layered and complex<br />
finish. Well structured. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.stellenbosch-hills.co.za Price: € 5.60<br />
Stellenbosch Hills +27 21 881 3828<br />
ESTATE VINEYARDS 90/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: Deep<br />
ruby. Blackberry and spice on the tea-leaf nose.<br />
Full and rich on the red cherry palate with finely<br />
integrated tannins on the rhubarb aftertaste.<br />
Balanced and refined. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.rustenvrede.com Price: € 40.00<br />
Rust en Vrede Wine Estate +27 218 813 881<br />
KOELENBOSCH 90/100<br />
D NINETEENFORTYONE 2021: Ruby garnet.<br />
Tea leaf and red cherry on the nose with hints<br />
of leather. Medley of deep red and ripe purple<br />
berries, supported by oak spice. Notes of fruit<br />
pastels and oak tannins compliment each<br />
other Layered and lengthy on the finish. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
Price: € 6.00<br />
Koelenhof Winery + 27 218 652 020<br />
STRYDOM ARTISAN WINES 90/100<br />
D REX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Ruby<br />
red with medium concentration. Dark fruit,<br />
equality of ripeness, integrated oak and fruit.<br />
Tannin evolution strikes the tongue in the right<br />
spots, present but not aggressive. Will keep for<br />
10 years.<br />
Price: € 305.00<br />
Strydom Vineyards +27 822 903 699<br />
HARTENBERG 89/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019<br />
http://www.hartenbergestate.com Price: € 15.00<br />
Hartenberg Estate +27 21 865 2541<br />
SIMONSIG 89/100<br />
D LABYRINTH CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
2020<br />
http://www.simonsig.co.za Price: € 19.50<br />
Simonsig Estate Wine +27 218 884 900<br />
STRYDOM ARTISAN WINES 89/100<br />
D REX CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2018<br />
Price: € 305.00<br />
Strydom Vineyards +27 822 903 699<br />
MOOIPLAAS 87/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
Price: € 195.00<br />
Mooiplaas Wine Estate +27 27 482 2827<br />
STELLENBOSCH RESERVE 87/100<br />
CR D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www.rustenvrede.com Price: € 18.00<br />
Rust en Vrede Wine Estate +27 218 813 881<br />
HOPE 85/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2023<br />
Price: € 6.90<br />
Cape Vinea +27 82 906 6047<br />
STELLENBOSCH -<br />
JONKERSHOEK VALLEY<br />
STARK-CONDÉ 93/100<br />
D OUDE NEKTAR CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
2019: Dark ruby, with youthful appearance.<br />
Upfront freshness of black current, enhanced by<br />
oak spice and cinnamon. Elegantly crafted with<br />
sour cherry and spearmint towards the end.<br />
Long lingering from the palate to the aftertaste.<br />
Ageing potential 10-years.<br />
http://www.stark-conde.co.za Price: € 50.00<br />
Stark-Condé Wines +27 21 861 7703<br />
STARK CONDÉ 92/100<br />
D THREE PINES 2019: Dark Ruby Red. Black<br />
currant and cassis, complimented by sandal<br />
wood oak spice nuances. Fruit and oak carry well<br />
to synchronise with tannins, offering a layered<br />
wine with richness and length. Drink in 6-8<br />
years.<br />
http://www.stark-conde.co.za Price: € 30.00<br />
Stark-Condé Wines +27 21 861 7703<br />
WATERFORD IN ITS OCHRE AND GREEN SETTING WITH THE HELDERBERG IN THE BACKDROP.<br />
124 AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
PORTUGAL - VINHO VERDE D.O.C.<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
What is it about Portuguese wines that<br />
consumers find so appealing? There<br />
are multiple answers to this, including<br />
attractive pricing, native grapes,<br />
extensive variety and new flavours.<br />
Basically, it is the appeal of something<br />
new. Judge for yourself – here is our<br />
selection of Alentejo, Setúbal and Vinho<br />
Verde, all of them selling for under 10<br />
euros!<br />
ALENTEJO<br />
ALENTEJO V.R.<br />
SMART DOG 88/100<br />
D PINGO’S EDITION 2021<br />
http://www.jportugalramos.com Price: € 9.99<br />
J. Portugal Ramos Vinhos, S.A. +351 268 339 910<br />
SMART DOG 87/100<br />
D 2022<br />
http://www.jportugalramos.com Price: € 2.50<br />
J. Portugal Ramos Vinhos, S.A. +351 268 339 910<br />
BAIRRADA<br />
BAIRRADA D.O.C.<br />
ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 90/100<br />
D MARQUES DE MARIALVA COLHEITA<br />
SELECIONADA 2020: Full colour with ruby and<br />
tawny tints. Heady nose, spicy, minty and woody<br />
with juicy fruit (blackberries, redcurrants) and<br />
graphite. Explosive palate marked by its oakageing<br />
as much as its alluring fruit, with wellsculpted<br />
tannin. Modern, distinguished.<br />
http://www.cantanhede.com Price: € 2.50<br />
Adega de Cantanhede +351 231 419 540<br />
ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 88/100<br />
D MARQUES DE MARIALVA 2019<br />
http://www.cantanhede.com Price: € 2.25<br />
Adega de Cantanhede +351 231 419 540<br />
ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 88/100<br />
D MAEQUES DE MARIALVA 2021<br />
http://www.cantanhede.com Price: € 2.25<br />
Adega de Cantanhede +351 231 419 540<br />
THE GRAPES ARE HARVESTED BY HAND AT ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE, A PIONEERING COMPANY<br />
ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 87/100<br />
D MARQUES DE MARIALVA 2021<br />
http://www.cantanhede.com Price: € 2.25<br />
Adega de Cantanhede +351 231 419 540<br />
BEIRA ATLANTICO I.G.P.<br />
ADEGA DE CANTANHEDE 87/100<br />
D CHAO DO CONDE RESERVA 2021<br />
http://www.cantanhede.com Price: € 1.75<br />
Adega de Cantanhede +351 231 419 540<br />
PENINSULA DE SETUBAL<br />
PENINSULA DE SETUBAL V.R.<br />
PERIQUITA 90/100<br />
CR D RESERVA 2021: Rich garnet-red colour.<br />
Promising nose of red fruit, hay, floral notes,<br />
liquorice and spices. Ample, greedy attack, with<br />
a touch of sweetness. Robust on the palate, with<br />
generous aromas. A very promising wine to<br />
cellar for a while before enjoying it.<br />
http://www.jmf.pt Price: € 9.90<br />
José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos +351 212 197 500<br />
PERIQUITA 88/100<br />
CR D 2022<br />
http://www.jmf.pt Price: € 4.45<br />
José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos +351 212 197 500<br />
PERIQUITA 88/100<br />
CR D RESERVA 2022<br />
http://www.jmf.pt Price: € 9.90<br />
José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos +351 212 197 500<br />
VINHO VERDE<br />
VINHO VERDE D.O.C.<br />
TWIN VINES 90/100<br />
CR D<br />
2022: Light golden yellow colour.<br />
Inviting nose characterised by hydrocarbon<br />
mineral scents, with receding citrus notes. The<br />
palate is invigorating and exquisitely light,<br />
concentrating on intense, crisp fruit. A truly<br />
expressive wine. Worth discovering.<br />
http://www.jmf.pt Price: € 9.00<br />
José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos +351 212 197 500<br />
AVELEDA 88/100<br />
D 2022<br />
https://www.aveleda.com/en Price: € 4.99<br />
Aveleda +351 255 718 200<br />
BOLHAS DOS LOBOS 88/100<br />
CR D VEGAN 2022<br />
https://www.adegaguimaraes.pt/ Price: € 5.00<br />
Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães +351 919 425 807<br />
ADEGA GUIMARÃES 87/100<br />
D 2021<br />
https://www.adegaguimaraes.pt/ Price: € 2.20<br />
Adega Cooperativa de Guimarães +351 919 425 807<br />
CASAL GARCIA 86/100<br />
D<br />
SITUATED NEAR COIMBRA.<br />
https://www.aveleda.com/en Price: € 4.19<br />
Aveleda +351 255 718 200<br />
AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
125
SOUTH WEST - BERGERAC<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
SOUTH WEST<br />
The region is so extensive and<br />
fragmented with myriad appellations<br />
that we have selected just four of them<br />
for you – Bergerac, Fronton, Gaillac<br />
and Jurançon. They come as reds, rosés,<br />
dry and sweet whites and are a perfect<br />
illustration of the variety offered by this<br />
inimitable wine region and its grape<br />
varieties with such quaint names!<br />
SOUTH WEST<br />
BERGERAC<br />
LE PLAISIR DES TEMPLIERS 89/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2021<br />
https://www.chateaulaforet-bergerac.com/ Price: € 4.50<br />
Vignobles Borie +33 5 53 58 43 02<br />
CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE 88/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2022<br />
https://chateaulestevenie.com/ Price: € 9.95<br />
Château Lestevénie +33 7 63 03 11 91<br />
LE PLAISIR DES TEMPLIERS 88/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2022<br />
https://www.chateaulaforet-bergerac.com/ Price: € 4.50<br />
Vignobles Borie +33 5 53 58 43 02<br />
CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE 87/100<br />
CONV D SUR LE FRUIT 2020<br />
http://www.poulvere.com Price: € 7.00<br />
Château Poulvère +33 5 53 58 30 25<br />
CHÂTEAU POULVÈRE 87/100<br />
CONV D SUR LE FRUIT 2022<br />
http://www.poulvere.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Château Poulvère +33 5 53 58 30 25<br />
CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE 86/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2021<br />
https://chateaulestevenie.com/ Price: € 6.00<br />
Château Lestevénie +33 7 63 03 11 91<br />
CHÂTEAU LESTEVENIE 84/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2021<br />
https://chateaulestevenie.com/ Price: € 7.00<br />
Château Lestevénie +33 7 63 03 11 91<br />
FRONTON<br />
LA FORÊT ROYALE 92/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2019: Deep garnet with bricking.<br />
Complex nose delivering fine spices, toast, a<br />
floral accent, liquorice and a host of fruits. The<br />
palate is starting to roll out generous flavours<br />
with intensity against a velvety, tense backdrop<br />
where harmony prevails.<br />
http://www.chateaubellevuelaforet.com Price: € 8.50<br />
Château Bellevue La Forêt +33 5 34 27 91 91<br />
LA FORÊT ROYALE 91/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2020: Bright garnet starting<br />
to mature. Racy nose combining red fruits,<br />
spices, violet and a whiff of toast. Harmonious,<br />
perfumed, saline palate framed by silky tannins.<br />
Finesse, beautiful nascent depth and a persistent<br />
finish. Superb.<br />
http://www.chateaubellevuelaforet.com Price: € 8.50<br />
Château Bellevue La Forêt +33 5 34 27 91 91<br />
CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 90/100<br />
D LA RÉSERVE 2020: Concentrated red with<br />
ruby-brown tints. Distinctive nose offering up<br />
forest floor aromas revolving around a backbone<br />
of ripe red and black fruits. The palate delivers<br />
layered, ample, generous aromatics. Moderate<br />
tannins offer a lovely accompaniment to the<br />
finish. Beautiful.<br />
http://www.chateaubaudare.com Price: € 6.00<br />
Château Baudare +33 5 63 30 51 33<br />
CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 90/100<br />
HVE D VIEILLES VIGNES 2020:<br />
Concentrated red with dark ruby reflections.<br />
Floral notes of peony and wilted roses adorn the<br />
nose along with ripe plums and blackcurrant.<br />
The palate is sleek, free-flowing and marked<br />
by saline flavours and the softness of the fruit.<br />
Languorous tannins. A very elegant Fronton.<br />
http://www.chateaubaudare.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Château Baudare +33 5 63 30 51 33<br />
CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 90/100<br />
HVE D LA RÉSERVE 2019: Dark colour with<br />
young purple-blue tints. Profound nose of black<br />
fruits and spices. Great attack on the palate with<br />
lots of weight, freshness and expression. The<br />
finish adds a pleasant spicy edge. A wine with<br />
genuine appeal.<br />
http://www.chateaubaudare.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Château Baudare +33 5 63 30 51 33<br />
CHÂTEAU BAUDARE 90/100<br />
HVE D LES 3 TERROIRS 2019: Deeply<br />
coloured with ruby-brown highlights. A mix of<br />
ripe fruits, stone fruits and strong spices on the<br />
nose. Generous palate bolstered by racy, wellestablished<br />
tannins. Sleek finish with a sappy,<br />
chewy feel. A Fronton with well-rooted siteexpressiveness.<br />
Shows potential.<br />
http://www.chateaubaudare.com Price: € 10.00<br />
Château Baudare +33 5 63 30 51 33<br />
CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT 90/100<br />
D ORIGINEL 2022: Light pink with<br />
bluish highlights. Charming nose combining<br />
strawberries, cherries, violets and spice notes. A<br />
silky attack opens up to a concentrated, smooth,<br />
mouth-filling palate. Intense, pure expression.<br />
Everything shows laser-like precision in this<br />
pretty rosé for elaborate dishes.<br />
http://www.chateaubellevuelaforet.com Price: € 7.00<br />
Château Bellevue La Forêt +33 5 34 27 91 91<br />
GAILLAC<br />
LES SECRETS DU CHÂTEAU PALVIÉ 91/100<br />
TV D VINTAGE 2018: Deep red with the first<br />
signs of maturing. Ripe red and black fruits on<br />
the nose coupled with an intense spicy edge. On<br />
the palate, the same aromas entwine pleasantly<br />
with tannins supporting the whole. Keep for<br />
another two years.<br />
http://www.croixdesmarchands.com Price: € 16.00<br />
Domaine La Croix des Marchands +33 5 63 57 19 71<br />
CHÂTEAU PALVIÉ 90/100<br />
TV D VINTAGE 2020: Deep crimson tinged<br />
with dark purple. Seductive nose exuding<br />
blackberries, redcurrants, smoke and a dash<br />
of spice. A silky attack is the prelude to a<br />
concentrated palate framed by velvety tannins.<br />
Beautiful youthful flavours showing delicious<br />
intensity. This is a stellar signature wine,<br />
congratulations.<br />
http://www.croixdesmarchands.com Price: € 9.80<br />
Domaine La Croix des Marchands +33 5 63 57 19 71<br />
CHÂTEAU PALVIÉ 90/100<br />
TV D VINTAGE 2021: Brilliant, mediumdeep<br />
yellow. Elegant nose delivering a fusion<br />
of white fruit notes, noble wood essence and<br />
acacia blossom. The palate is styled with subtle<br />
oaky accents, invigorating tension and very<br />
successful balance.<br />
http://www.croixdesmarchands.com Price: € 10.00<br />
Domaine La Croix des Marchands +33 5 63 57 19 71<br />
LES GRAVETTES 90/100<br />
ORG D INSTANT 2022: Brilliant pale gold.<br />
Very pure, focused nose with suggestions of<br />
grape and ripe pear. The palate displays great<br />
delicacy with chiselled aromas enhanced by<br />
beautiful tension. A precise wine showing<br />
undeniable craftsmanship.<br />
http://www chateau-de-terride.com Price: € 12.00<br />
Château de Terride +33 5 63 33 26 63<br />
126 AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH WEST - JURANÇON SEC<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 90/100<br />
ORG D PAS DE DEUX 2018: Bright yellowgold.<br />
Very pure, candied nose showing tones of<br />
quince and rhubarb. A lovely liqueur-like feel<br />
on the palate couples with welcome freshness.<br />
Persistent finish driven by the same candied<br />
fruit tones. Really appetising.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: 11.40<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 90/100<br />
ORG Fluffy white wine D PAS DE DEUX 2019:<br />
Brilliant deep yellow. Beautiful intense, fresh<br />
nose showing melon, mirabelle plum and white<br />
fruit nuances. The palate is an absolute treat. It<br />
is juicy, smooth and mouth-filling, flowing into<br />
a lively finish.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 12.10<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
JURANÇON SEC<br />
THE CHARM OF CHATEAU TERRIDE, A FORMER HUNTING LODGE BUILT NEAR GAILLAC IN 1652.<br />
SECRET DE LABASTIDE 89/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2019<br />
http://www.cave-labastide.com Price: € 12.00<br />
Cave de Labastide de Lévis +33 5 63 53 73 53<br />
SECRET DE LABASTIDE 88/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2019<br />
http://www.cave-labastide.com Price: € 12.00<br />
Cave de Labastide de Lévis +33 5 63 53 73 53<br />
CHÂTEAU ISSALY 87/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2020<br />
http://www.cave-labastide.com Price: € 12.15<br />
Cave de Labastide de Lévis +33 5 63 53 73 53<br />
LES GRAVETTES 87/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2021<br />
http://www chateau-de-terride.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Château de Terride +33 5 63 33 26 63<br />
LES GRAVETTES 87/100<br />
ORG D VINTAGE 2022<br />
http://www chateau-de-terride.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Château de Terride +33 5 63 33 26 63<br />
JURANÇON<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 95/100<br />
ORG D TOUTE UNE HISTOIRE 2019:<br />
Vibrant yellow-gold. Exquisite nose blending<br />
pineapple, mango, candied fruits, honey and<br />
mineral undertones. A silky attack is the prelude<br />
to a fleshy, concentrated palate with a pure,<br />
profound, liqueur-like feel. Saline and spicy<br />
mid-palate and sumptuous flavours in this<br />
benchmark wine.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 16.00<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 94/100<br />
CONV Fluffy white wine D TOUTE UNE<br />
HISTOIRE 2020: Bright, deep yellow. Elegant,<br />
fresh nose delivering aromas of yellow fruits,<br />
tropical notes and candied citrus. The palate is<br />
very rich with very pure juiciness that lingers on<br />
and on, driven by citrus fruits and sweet spices.<br />
Great potential.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 16.10<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 91/100<br />
ORG D PIERRE DE LUNE 2020: Bright<br />
yellow-gold with some traces of green. Racy nose<br />
combining citrus, tropical fruits and a minerally<br />
trace. Harmonious, richly styled, ample palate<br />
unfurling a generous range of flavours. Spicy<br />
mid-palate with pineapple and mango. A<br />
delightful wine for food.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 11.00<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 90/100<br />
ORG D CONFLUENCE 2021: Yellow-gold.<br />
On the nose, menthol notes, sweet spices,<br />
chamomile, apple and wild flowers. The palate<br />
is fleshy and very seductive, with delicate, ripe,<br />
energetic fruitiness and a smooth finish. A clear,<br />
delicious Jurançon for top quality fish.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 10.00<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 90/100<br />
ORG D PIERRE DE LUNE 2021: Bright<br />
yellow-gold. On the nose, passion fruit, apricot,<br />
almond and orange zest notes. The palate is<br />
well-established and nicely chewy, structured<br />
and fresh with a honeyed finish. Very restrained<br />
richness and great elegance.<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 11.10<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
DOMAINE NIGRI 89/100<br />
ORG D CONFLUENCE 2022<br />
https://www.jurancon-domainenigri.com/ Price: € 10.10<br />
Domaine Nigri +33 5 59 21 42 01<br />
AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
127
RHONE VALLEY - BEAUMES DE VENISE<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
RHONE VALLEY<br />
Beaumes-de-Venise, Cairanne,<br />
Gigondas, Rasteau and Vinsobres –<br />
are you familiar with these 5 southern<br />
appellations? It’s time to explore them<br />
so here is a selection of robust, aromatic<br />
and companionable reds with much<br />
more affordable price tags than the<br />
Rhone’s flagship appellations<br />
RHONE VALLEY<br />
BEAUMES DE VENISE<br />
DOMAINE SAINT AMANT 91/100<br />
CONV D GRANGENEUVE 2020: Dark<br />
ruby-red tinged with crimson. Black fruits are<br />
accompanied by toast and pepper touches on the<br />
nose. The palate is lively yet silky to start with<br />
sun-kissed flavours. The full freshness of the<br />
Mistral wind is delivered on the finish in this<br />
distinctively Rhone-style wine.<br />
http://www.domainesaintamant.com Price: € 15.50<br />
Domaine Saint Amant +33 4 90 62 99 25<br />
GIGONDAS LA CAVE 91/100<br />
CR D TERRISSIMO 2020: Beautiful ruby<br />
with faint mature highlights. Very pleasant,<br />
soft nose with floral and mineral overtones.<br />
Gorgeous weight on the palate with ripe,<br />
polished tannins. Fullness on the finish and also<br />
substantial aromatic persistence.<br />
http://www.cave-gigondas.fr Price: € 10.80<br />
Gigondas La Cave +33 4 90 65 86 27<br />
CAIRANNE<br />
DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER 90/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2022: Dark ruby-red<br />
with dark purple reflections. Expressive nose<br />
delivering a blend of black fruits, pepper and<br />
cacao touches. Clean, robust palate with aromas<br />
of ripe fruits. An assertively Mediterranean style<br />
in a sun-kissed vintage. Serve with grills.<br />
http://www.lucientramier.fr Price: € 10.00<br />
Domaine Lucien Tramier +33 9 66 83 00 89<br />
DOMAINE LUCIEN TRAMIER 90/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2021: Vibrant red tinged<br />
with ruby. Typical nose accented by stone fruits,<br />
strong spices, aromatic plants and smoke.<br />
The palate combines power, a fleshy feel and<br />
welcome sweetness. The tannins are proud and<br />
the finish is extended.<br />
THE GRAPE HARVEST AT DOMAINE SAINT-AMANT, IN SUZETTE, NEAR CARPENTRAS.<br />
http://www.lucientramier.fr Price: € 10.00<br />
Domaine Lucien Tramier +33 9 66 83 00 89<br />
GIGONDAS<br />
DOMAINE DE CAROBELLE 92/100<br />
ORG D VINTAGE 2021: Bright garnet<br />
starting to mature. Racy nose combining sweet<br />
spices, stone fruits, liquorice and garrigue<br />
notes. Velvety, full-bodied, rich palate supported<br />
by well-judged freshness, elegant tannins and a<br />
saline edge. Still young with great potential.<br />
http://www.cave-gigondas.fr Price: € 20.50<br />
Gigondas La Cave +33 4 90 65 86 27<br />
GIGONDAS LA CAVE 92/100<br />
CR D L’INTENSE 2019: Deep garnet with<br />
amber traces. Racy nose mingling sweet spices,<br />
stone fruits, tobacco and dried herbs with<br />
subtle exotic wood. The palate is silky smooth<br />
with a great Mediterranean aromatic line-up<br />
in the process of opening up. Moderate, wellintegrated<br />
firmness in this exemplary wine.<br />
http://www.cave-gigondas.fr Price: € 18.90<br />
Gigondas La Cave +33 4 90 65 86 27<br />
GIGONDAS LA CAVE 91/100<br />
CR D SIGNATURE 2020: Clear garnetred<br />
with amber highlights. Enticing nose<br />
blending stone fruits, fine spices, garrigue<br />
and a touch of mocha. Full-bodied, ample,<br />
structured palate which coats the tastebuds<br />
with its Mediterranean flavours. A harmonious,<br />
distinctive and successful wine.<br />
http://www.cave-gigondas.fr Price: € 18.20<br />
Gigondas La Cave +33 4 90 65 86 27<br />
LE GRAND MONTMIRAIL 90/100<br />
D LE COTEAU DE MON PÈRE 2021: Dense<br />
colour tinged with ruby. Nose of garrigue, stone<br />
fruits and strong spices. Structured palate<br />
with a chewiness that combines freshness and<br />
a sappy feel with a very energetic aromatic<br />
core. Concentrated tannins. A classic, fuss-free<br />
Gigondas.<br />
http://www.vigneoblescheron.fr Price: € 13.00<br />
Cave Pascal +33 4 90 65 85 91<br />
LE GRAND MONTMIRAIL 90/100<br />
D LE COTEAU DE MON RÊVE 2020:<br />
Beautiful deep, bright red. Generous nose of<br />
stone fruits lifted by a touch of venison. Balanced<br />
at point of entry followed by a more opulent<br />
mid-palate and finish that stay harmonious. A<br />
distinctive Gigondas for game.<br />
http://www.vigneoblescheron.fr Price: € 13.50<br />
Cave Pascal +33 4 90 65 85 91<br />
128 AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
RHONE VALLEY - VINSOBRES<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
RASTEAU<br />
VILLA SAFRANIER 90/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2020: Deep red with dark ruby<br />
highlights. Suggestions of garrigue, pepper,<br />
olive and sun-drenched black fruit. The palate<br />
delivers great aromatic volume with an extensive<br />
array of hallmark Mediterranean flavours. Silky<br />
tannins. This is an elegant wine.<br />
https://www.villa-safranier.com/ Price: € 14.00<br />
Clos Safranier +33 6 25 07 34 82<br />
DOMAINE DE LA PIÉGONNE 89/100<br />
ORG D VINTAGE 2020<br />
https://www.lumianbonnefoy.com/<br />
Domaine de Lumian +33 4 90 35 09 70<br />
VILLA SAFRANIER 88/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2021<br />
https://www.villa-safranier.com/ Price: € 14.00<br />
Clos Safranier +33 6 25 07 34 82<br />
VACQUEYRAS<br />
LA GRAND COMTADINE 90/100<br />
D PÉCHÉ MIGNON 2020: Deeply coloured.<br />
Nose of garrigue, wild plants and stone fruits<br />
with a whiff of smoke. The palate is dense and<br />
powerful with very distinctive Mediterranean<br />
flavours. Freshness reins in the tannins. Works<br />
best with hearty foods.<br />
http://www.vigneoblescheron.fr Price: € 10.00<br />
Cave Pascal +33 4 90 65 85 91<br />
VINSOBRES<br />
DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU 90/100<br />
ORG D VINTAGE 2016: Intense garnet with<br />
some bricking. Rich nose combining morello<br />
cherry, redcurrant, liquorice and spice with oaky<br />
undertones. Powerful, structured, heady palate<br />
delivering noble Mediterranean aromatics. An<br />
expressive wine that honours tradition.<br />
https://domainelemirabeau.fr/ Price: € 14.00<br />
Domaine Le Mirabeau +33 6 03 26 97 96<br />
DOMAINE LE MIRABEAU 90/100<br />
ORG D VINTAGE 2017: Garnet-red with<br />
bricking. Gorgeous open nose of red and black<br />
fruits with touches of forest floor and humus.<br />
Powerful, velvety palate marked by stewed fruit<br />
tones. Great freshness to finish. Serve with<br />
grills.<br />
https://domainelemirabeau.fr/ Price: € 15.00<br />
Domaine Le Mirabeau +33 6 03 26 97 96<br />
DOMAINE ST VINCENT 90/100<br />
HVE D VINTAGE 2021: Deep red with ruby<br />
reflections. Nose of juicy red fruits with garrigue<br />
and spice undertones. The palate successfully<br />
combines clean tannins and mature fruit whilst<br />
preserving freshness and breed. An extremely<br />
noble wine.<br />
http://www.domaine-saint-vincent.com Price: € 9.90<br />
Domaine Saint Vincent +33 4 75 27 61 10<br />
DOMAINE ST VINCENT 88/100<br />
HVE D VINTAGE 2022<br />
http://www.domaine-saint-vincent.com Price: € 9.90<br />
Domaine Saint Vincent +33 4 75 27 61 10<br />
THE GIGONDAS WINERY CRAFTS BEAUTIFUL WINES, LIKE THE 2021 DOMAINE DE CAROBELLE WHICH OUR PANEL RATED 92/100.<br />
AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
129
ITALY - ALL REGIONS<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
ITALY<br />
No-low wines are on-trend and Italy<br />
is no exception to the rule. From<br />
sparkling wines and flavoured drinks<br />
to low-alcohol wines, Italian producers<br />
have been quick to embrace diversity<br />
and respond to increased demand from<br />
newbies.<br />
ITALY (ALL REGIONS)<br />
SL 90/100<br />
D ZERO SPRITZ ORANGE : Bright, luminous<br />
orange. Clean and engaging nose combining<br />
aromatic herbs and gentian. On the palate, the<br />
same range of flavours emerges, surprisingly,<br />
combined with a slight bitterness on the finish<br />
that makes it all the more convincing. A real<br />
success.<br />
http://www.cantiesgarzi.com Price: € 2.70<br />
Cantine Sgarzi Luigi +39 051 940 962<br />
TOSELLI 90/100<br />
D BOLLICINE SPUMANTI : Vibrant, pale yellow<br />
colour. Fresh nose combining muscatel, lychee<br />
and jasmine. On the palate, light tenderness,<br />
clean fragrances and a real feeling of pleasure.<br />
A rather indulgent wine, seductive in its<br />
simplicity.<br />
http://www.bosca.it Price: € 7.00<br />
BOSCA +39 0141 96 7711<br />
SL 88/100<br />
D ZERO % ZERO<br />
http://www.cantiesgarzi.com Price: € 2.40<br />
Cantine Sgarzi Luigi +39 051 940 962<br />
ZERO 88/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.spinato.it Price: € 9.50<br />
Anna Spinato Azienda Vinicola +39 0422 857 927<br />
FRANC LIZÊR 87/100<br />
D ROSÉ<br />
Price: € 13.00<br />
Lea Winery +39 043 418 36 532<br />
ROSSINI COCKTAIL 87/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.canellaspa.it Price: € 6.00<br />
Casa Vinicola Canella +39 042 152 446<br />
SL 87/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.cantiesgarzi.com Price: € 2.30<br />
Cantine Sgarzi Luigi +39 051 940 962<br />
SL 87/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.cantiesgarzi.com Price: € 2.80<br />
Cantine Sgarzi Luigi +39 051 940 962<br />
ZERO BLUSH 87/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.spinato.it Price: € 9.70<br />
Anna Spinato Azienda Vinicola +39 0422 857 927<br />
BELLINI COCKTAIL 86/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.canellaspa.it Price: € 6.00<br />
Casa Vinicola Canella +39 042 152 446<br />
FRANC LIZÊR 86/100<br />
D BLANC DE BLANCS<br />
Price: € 13.00<br />
Lea Winery +39 043 418 36 532<br />
MIMOSA COCKTAIL 86/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.canellaspa.it Price: € 6.00<br />
Casa Vinicola Canella +39 042 152 446<br />
PUCCINI COCKTAIL 86/100<br />
D<br />
http://www.canellaspa.it Price: € 6.00<br />
Casa Vinicola Canella +39 042 152 446<br />
TOSELLI 86/100<br />
D BOLLICINE SPUMANTI<br />
http://www.bosca.it Price: € 7.00<br />
BOSCA +39 0141 96 7711<br />
CAVIRO 85/100<br />
D ROSSO REALE BLUEBERRY<br />
http://www.caviro.com Price: € 12.00<br />
Caviro +39 054 662 91 11<br />
ARIONE AND ITS SPECTACULAR VINEYARD SETTING AMIDST THE ROLLING HILLS OF PIEDMONT.<br />
130 AUTUMN 2023 GILBERT & GAILLARD – THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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