TravelWorld International Magazine Summer 2023

Costa Rica
SUMMER 2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
SUMMER
2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
"Pura Vida" ... The Simple Life
If there is just one, albeit unlikely, good thing we can say
about the pandemic, it's that it forced us to stop living such
busy, frantic lives and experience the simple life, "Pura Vida."
Many of the stories in this Summer Issue are about that very thing.
From Life Balance in Costa Rica to both Slow Cruising worldwide and
Romantic Cruising in Tahiti, to a vintage view of Hawaii on Lana'i ... a
simple life is desired.
Even in arts and crafts, we see it, a blind sculptor, so focused on his
art that he doesn't need his eyesight! In sweetgrass basketweaving,
the importance of the past is woven into the present. We take simple
pleasure in the art of fly fishing and also in exploring local destinations
for both culinary specialties and unique adventures. Even in the
ancient city of Varanasi, the ends of peoples lives are celebrated with
the eternal blessings of the Ganges River, believed to "clean and purify."
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor in Chief:
Copy Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
Omar Rodriguez
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Melissa Adams
Nancy Besharah
Dennis Ciere
Judi Cohen
Ian & Tonya Fitzpatrick
Mary Klest
Sharael Kolberg
Cindy Ladage
Meryl Pearlstein
Nicole Pensiero
Janet Rae-Dupree
Bennett Root
Sherry Spitsnaugle
Life Balance in Costa Rica Bennett Root 6
Cruising and Slow Travel Meryl Pearlstein 14
Blind Mexican Sculptor José García Antonio Melissa Adams 20
Discover Vintage Hawaii on Lanai Nancy Besharah 24
Charleston's Sweetgrass Baskets Janet Rae-Dupree 28
Finding Paradise in Tahiti with Windstar Cruises Judi Cohen 32
6
14
North American Travel Journalist Association members share their
love of travel and the simple life, here in this rich compilation of their
travel experiences.
Enjoy!
DMO CONTRIBUTORS:
Huntsville, Alabama
Visit Buffalo-Niagra
Visit Oneida County, NY
20
24
Joy Bushmeyer,
Editor in Chief
Editorial /Advertising Offices:
TravelWorld International Magazine
3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744
Pasadena, CA 91107
Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854
www.travelworldmagazine.com
2
Cover Photos
Bennett Root, a proponent of conservation and ecosustainability
in tourism, found his "Pura Vida," (Simple Life),
in Costa Rica at The Peace Lodge and La Paz Gardens. Here he
was able to photograph local wildlife who were rescuees of the
Costa Rican Wildlife Ministry. They were saved from poachers
and others engaged in illegal exotic pet trade.
Photos provided by Bennett Root
Volume 2023.02 Summer 2023. Copyright ©2023
by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.
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World International Magazine or NATJA
Publications. TravelWorld International Magazine
reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity
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and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.
This periodical’s name and logo along with the
various titles and headings therein, are trademarks
of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.
28 32
3

SUMMER
2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
Huntsville
Alabama
Taste the World in New Orleans Ian & Tonya Fitzpatrick 38
"Wild Bearies" 3-Course Meal from Local Ingredients Dennis Cieri 42
Broadmoor Fly Fishing Camp, Colorado Springs Sherry Spitsnaugle 44
Wonderful Windsor Castle Nicole Pensiero 48
Branson Has it All Cindy Ladage 52
Adventures in Reno Sharael Kolberg 56
Visiting Varanasi, India Mary Klest 60
Big Spring International Park
38 42
Huntsville is the largest city in Alabama and the #2 Best Place to Live
according to U.S. News & World Report.
Known as “Rocket City,” we’re home
to the U.S. Space & Rocket Center, the
world’s largest space museum,
and Space Camp® along with other
world-class attractions.
Here you’ll find culinary offerings to
satisfy any palate, a thriving arts and
entertainment culture, and genuine
Southern hospitality.
Live music fills the air at numerous
venues - including the 8,000-seat
Orion Amphitheater.
44 50 50
Trails and tours with scenic views
are ready to explore.
Sports teams include Huntsville Havoc
hockey, Rocket City Trash Pandas
baseball, and our new professional soccer
team, the Huntsville City Football Club.
Quench your thirst at one of our 12
breweries or on the Craft Cocktail Trail.
54 60
In Huntsville, Alabama, we don’t just tout an out-of-this-world experience; we deliver it.
4
HUNTSVILLE/MADISON COUNTY CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
HuntsvilleCVB VisitHuntsvilleAL Go2HuntsvilleAL
huntsville.org #iHeartHsv
5

Life Balance
A green billed toucan rests
in the jungle canopy, aloof,
watching us watch him.
in
Costa Rica
Pura Vida, Tourism, and
Eco-Sustainability
Story and Photos by Bennett Root
6
A red eyed tree frog
stares back at us
from his leaf on
the night walk at
The Springs.
W
hen
the
invite
came, we
canceled
other plans,
packed quickly,
and headed for
the airport. There are dozens of
good reasons why travelers flock
to Costa Rica—stunning natural
beauty, friendly locals, a commitment
to sustainability and conservation,
among them—but, for us, it is a "no
plan" zone, where we can relax, walk
slowly, and cleanse our minds of
schedules that always seem a little
too tight and projects that somehow
often get too heavy. The prospect of a
few days of "no-plan" relaxation was
irresistible. As it turned out, it was a
week of pura vida-style living that was
exactly what we needed.
"Pura Vida" is a phrase commonly
heard in Costa Rica. It translates,
freely, to "pure life" or "simple
life." The origins of the phrase
"pura vida" are not entirely clear,
but it is often associated with the
country's reputation for eco-tourism,
sustainability, and outdoor adventure.
For Costa Ricans, "Ticos" locally, it is
more than just a saying—it is a way of
life that embodies a positive attitude,
an appreciation for nature, and a laidback
approach to living. By trying out
this pura vida philosophy, we sought
to immerse ourselves in the culture
of Costa Rica and enjoy all that this
beautiful country has to offer. A little
more beauty and fewer phone calls
were just what the doctor ordered, as
they say.
When we touched down in San Jose,
pura vida was all around us, but not
yet in us. All that was certain was that
after a couple of short meetings, we
had no plan. We could have chosen to
explore Costa Rica's beautiful southern
beaches, or the ethereal canopies in its
jungle rainforests, but we had sampled
those. We toured banana and coffee
plantations. What we had not done
was visit the northern volcanos, Poás
and Arenal, both still active symbols
of the country itself. These became
our targets for this trip, discover life
in the shadows of the volcano, and
perhaps find our version of pura vida
in the process.
One of the biggest draws of Costa
Rica is its incredible biodiversity.
The country is home to over
500,000 diverse species, including
over 850 species of birds—toucans
and parrots—and over 200 species
of mammals, including the famous
sloths and a rouge's gallery of
monkeys. Over millions of years,
Costa Rica's geographical positioning
has allowed it to become a mixing
bowl for North American and
South American species. Its climate,
mountains, and valleys allowed this
enriched biological mix to grow and
establish a sustainable balance within
its ecosystems. The result is beautiful
and amazing.
7

Say “hello!”
We were surprised
by an alligator on
our night walk at
The Springs.
A monkey enjoying
a gourmet lunch at
the animal shelter
at The Springs.
A Costa
Rican Sloth
climbs
through
the jungle
canopy with
amazing
speed and
grace.
B
ut
anything
beautiful
and
amazing
presents its
problems—
in this
case pressure
on the ecosystems from human
intervention—deforestation, land
abuse, carbon dioxide emissions,
climate change, and in no small
measure, the tourism that results from
beautiful and amazing biodiversity.
Tourism is very profitable, and
not difficult to accommodate.
But developing and maintaining
safeguards around tourism that
moderate the trampling effect tourism
brings to any ecosystem, aye, there's
the rub. Achieving a balance that
allows both tourism and biodiversity
to intersect and sustain themselves -
getting that balance is not so easy, and
therein lies a very big challenge for this
very tiny country.
Costa Rica has become a leader in
pursuing and developing sustainable
tourism and biological conservation.
The country has made a notable
commitment to preserving its
natural resources—over 25% of its
land areas are protected, half again
as much as other conservationaware
countries in the world--and
has implemented policies to protect
its wildlife and their habitats. This
includes the creation of national
parks and protected areas, as well
as initiatives to promote renewable
energy and reduce waste. Travelers
will find plenty of eco-tourism
and sustainable travel options in
Costa Rica, including eco-lodges
and resorts, many with tours
and activities that support local
communities. This sparked our
interest.
The same friends who invited
us to join them for a few days
in Costa Rica, knowing our
interest in conservation, but also
our preference for resort-level
accommodations, suggested we
check out The Peace Lodge with
its eco-friendly La Paz Waterfall
Gardens and their rainforestcentric
activities. They suggested
we could combine a day trip to the
La Paz Gardens and a hike up to an
overlook of the Poás volcano. That
kind of unstructured day trip was
wholly consistent with our no-plan
attitude and seemed to be pura vida
living. We were off at the crack of
dawn the next morning.
When we first arrived, The Peace
Lodge was shrouded in a thick
fog, not unusual for a Cloud and
Rainforest environment. We could
have walked down below the guest
quarters to the La Paz River with
its several waterfalls, but we'd seen
waterfalls. With limited time, our
alternate choice was to see the birds,
butterflies, and night critters that
were typical of Costa Rica, many
maintained for viewing in the
on-premises animal preserve. We
were pleased to learn that all the
animals at the La Paz Gardens were
not taken from their local habitat,
but were, instead, rescue animals
received from the Costa Rican
Wildlife Ministry which, in turn,
had confiscated them from poachers
and others engaged in the illegal
exotic pet trade.
The Peace Lodge is a remarkable eco-resort, today nestled in a morning cloudscape.
8
9

10
The distinct
blue markings
on the
butterfly that
is a symbol of
Costa Rica.
Striking designs were on
display at the butterfly
garden at The Peace Lodge.
Two red Costa Rican frogs in
The Peace Lodge frog house.
A butterfly emerges from its
cocoon at The Peace Lodge.
T
he night
critters
in the frog
habitat were
hardest to spot,
well, because it
was daytime. We
had to look under
leaves, behind stems,
and into crevices, but we
were rewarded with a glimpse of
some sleeping green tree frogs and an
insomniac "true frog" (Ranidae). The
butterflies in the butterfly garden—
there were a lot of them—seemed
to float gently through the air, and
occasionally one would land on your
head, or an outstretched palm. Most
interesting to me, however, was a line
of cocoons from which newly hatching
butterflies were emerging, drying their
bodies before their first flight. The
patterns and colors in their wings were
mesmerizing. I could have whiled away
the afternoon in this place but wanted
to see the birds and the volcano, so we
needed to get a move on. We hiked
up to the aviary. The size and color
patterns of birds common to the Costa
Rica jungles, recreated within the
aviary, were dazzling. Amazingly, one
of the toucans let me get close enough
for a quiet chat. He didn't have much
to say, and he didn't stay too long,
preferring the accustomed safety of
a perch in the top branches of one of
the trees, but he afforded us a close-up
glimpse of jungle finery.
The Peace Lodge and La Paz Gardens
are owned by Lee Banks, an American
entrepreneur with a love for Costa
Rica and a conservationist's streak.
Their shared Mission—Banks', The
Garden's--"is to preserve and protect
the natural environment of the area
for the education, entertainment, and
enjoyment of all ages of people. Our
strategy combines environmentally
conscious design with maximum
educational impact to the visitor."
Their property development and
their actions reflect their words. As
noted on their website, they offer, "3.5
kilometers of hiking trails and viewing
platforms constructed from 1998-2000
designed and built without cutting one
The author tries to open a conversation with a neighborly toucan.
Photo by Jorge Salizar.
tree or vine system. The materials
for the trails and platforms were
carried down on foot to avoid
the use of heavy equipment in
the forest. The credit for this
tremendous accomplishment
goes to Mr. Bernardo Picado who
designed trails for the National Park
System of Costa Rica before joining
our team." Actually, according to
Roy Torres, General Manager of
the property, it is Lee Banks himself
who should get the lion's share of
the credit. It has been his vision that
drives the property's Mission. He is
not just an owner; he continues to
be directly involved in the ongoing
development of the property.
He designs many of the evolving
features of The Peace Lodge; he is
the environmental-supporter-inchief,
and the chief advocate for
this premier, eco-sensitive property,
one that helps keep the multitude
of Costa Rican tourists each year
in balance with the needs and
sustainability of the ecosystem.
A spider’s
handiwork
revealed
on a night
walk
at The
Springs.
11

The Arenal volcano dominates the landscape a 100 miles northwest of San Jose.
A puma
at The
Springs
protects
his
territory.
The author at one of the
Poás volcano’s craters.
We relaxed on our veranda,
next to the hot tub and
pool, in Arenal’s shadow.
T T
he Peace as a life form, relentlessly preparing see what a few days-stay at an ecoresort
would be like. I wanted to
he Springs is Like The Peace Lodge, The Springs in Costa Rica's natural beauty within
Lodge is for a future eruption, biding its time
a full-on, fivestar
experience. Banks. More than any testimonial, this while enjoying gourmet dining and a
is owned and was developed by Lee the boundaries of sustainable tourism
about 20 to wreak havoc and bring aggressive ask the Bank's hospitality team how
kilometers drive change to its lush, green neighborhood. they could accommodate tourists,
The rooms were property speaks to his commitment host of luxurious resort amenities. All
from the entrance That this violent but natural change especially families, who wanted the ecoexperience
of Costa Rica, but without
spacious and clean, to eco-conservation, and an ability to in all, a remarkable, satisfying balance
to the Poás viewing process was a real-time possibility was
the activities very much balance tourism with environmental of interests that we found enhanced
site, itself a short walk distinctly emphasized by the emergency the challenges and rigors of a remote
oriented to experiencing sustainability. The Spring blends our Costa Rica experience.
from parks' parking, along evacuation instructions posted near the eco-lodge. The answer lay in a visit to
the magnificent Costa Rica perfectly into its surrounding
a trail bordered by jungle observation platform and the adjacent The Springs, the other Banks-owned
rainforests, and the staff support was landscape. It routinely employs locals, Lee Banks is not the only
foliage dominated by huge leaves room full of hard hats (to protect against eco-resort, this one located on the
consistently excellent. I said I wanted training them to meet the demands of conservation-minded entrepreneur,
and punctuated with brilliant flora. falling ricks blown out by the volcano!) slopes of the Arenal volcano, within one
to see frogs, and I was booked on a resort-level hospitality, simultaneously and The Peace Lodge and The Springs
It turns out there are multiple craters and emergency rescue gear. We were of the best-known views in Costa Rica's
night tour that delivered the desired sustaining communities and creating are not the only eco-friendly resorts.
here, the closest one filled with an constantly warned to not let the lava portfolio of memorable images. We
results. I wanted to see a sloth and the futures for coming generations of Costa Rica's diversity includes
azure acid bath, and surrounded by a catch up—as it not only smells bad but is called at the last minute—part of my "no
staff pointed out two in the wild, and Ticos. The resort's design—thanks many eco-responsible choices for
wedding cake shoreline of bubbling hot, hot, hot!
plan" approach—and a warm, efficient
then took me to see a third, a momma to Banks—relies exclusively on the the traveler. But Lee Banks and his
fumaroles, belching warm sulfuric
reservation staff member found a way to
and baby, hanging out on the back of heat of the volcano and solar power, properties mark the way and anchor
volatiles onto fog-swept, barren, mudcovered,
grey-brown plateaus. Overall, The Peace Lodge and the observation even though it was a holiday weekend.
Motivated as I was by our day trip to get us a room for a couple of nights' stay
the property. I did not see a jaguar, making The Springs' carbon footprint the concept. It makes a "no plan"
but definitely, a local puma got my full light indeed. Guests enjoy river rafting, approach to traveling easy on the
what one sees is a severe, forbidding of this effort to balance tourism and I was impressed, anxious, and delighted
attention! We hiked the trails and hung a variety of natural hot pools, ziplining,
horseback riding, and hikes opportunity for discovery within a
conscience and offers an exciting
beauty. In its distinctive way, it appears eco-conservation, I was curious to all at once. Pura Vida!
out in the local hot springs. This was
pura vida living.
galore. Guests can immerse themselves pura vida lifestyle. Viva! The balance.
12 13

Relaxation and the rewards of slow travel go handin-hand
on a barge cruise with French Country
Waterways in Burgundy. You can grab a seat at the
bow and simply take in the breathtaking scenery as
you float from lock to lock.
W
hen I asked
what time
we were
leaving for
our wine
tasting and
château visit, I
was told “10ish.” “10ish?” “Yes, 10ish,” the
captain replied. That set the tone for my
leisurely barge trip through Burgundy.
Everything had a schedule, but there
was built-in flexibility to accommodate
changes and unexpected discoveries and,
above all, encourage relaxation.
And, as envisaged, everything operated
on “ish” time. What a remarkable change
from the precision of the daily grind and
the relentless alarm clocks that besiege
us. It was a wonderful way to reconnect
with the joys of travel.
A slow barge float with French Country Waterways takes in the beauty of
Burgundy including the bright yellow blooms of the rapeseed in spring.
Cruising and Slow Travel,
14
A Match Made at Sea
This is the philosophy espoused by the
amiable staff aboard the Adrienne, the
jewel of French Country Waterways.
The multi-talented crew anticipates
your needs, ensuring everything is
perfect to encourage you to unwind
and enjoy. The owner might be the one
tidying up your room, while the first
mate might guide you to the bridge
for a lesson in negotiating the locks.
At mealtime, the cheese presenter and
sommelier may quietly disappear to
take care of the evening turndown. All
is done almost undetectably, with the
goal of effecting slow travel bliss.
Slowing down and embracing the
concept of slow travel has become
something of a way of life for many,
motivated perhaps by three years of
stagnation. Rather than ticking off
every little thing on a bucket list or
Story and Photos by Meryl Pearlstein
hastily grabbing selfies before moving on
to the next checkpoint, we now appreciate
the indulgences that come with being
more present and allow us to absorb the
beauty and surprises revealed when we
take our time.
Having navigated initial post-pandemic
travel annoyances like massive flight
disruptions, limited availabilities, and
the interminable phone holds, we can
now apply our newly acquired patience
to good reward. Slow travel is a blessing.
Slow travel will change your perspective
as you take the time to smell the coffee or
swirl and sip the wine on a leisurely float.
It also recognizes that there’s no need
to pack everything into one trip. Forget
FOMO. Leave that to a different genre
of traveler. Instead, enjoy the moment.
Breathe. Savor. That’s the gift of slow
travel.
I
used to love walking
tours as a means
of decelerating when
traveling. But with crowds
playing catch-up, spurred
into frenzies by Instagram
shots and open boundaries, I’ve
changed my mind. Cruising has become my
new favorite way to experience slow travel.
Cruising eliminates the hassles of packing
and unpacking, unraveling travel routes and
connections, or selecting where to be on a
given day. Uncrowded comforts await onboard,
and, as a vehicle for “travel sampling,” it’s a
beautiful thing. The drill for this type of slow
travel? Just sit back and revel in the experience.
Choose or don’t choose what you’d like to do,
and make notes for future immersions. But,
above all, take it slow.
With memories of the pandemic moving
more and more into the past, the world has
welcomed cruising once again. Alaska is a
dream destination for first-time cruisers,
nature lovers, and even those with soonto-expire
passports. Small-ship cruises like
Windstar’s “Alaskan Splendors” slowly drift
by icebergs, orcas, and bald eagles, affording
a sense of the country’s majestic beauty.
Excursions can be leisurely or adventurous:
you choose whether to explore the fjords
on a captain-driven zodiac or use your own
arm power to maneuver a kayak. Both will
encourage you to pause and listen, to look
through your binoculars to see the mother
eagle feeding her brood in a treetop nest
or to gaze into the distance to witness the
thunderous calving of a melting glacier.
Windstar small ships cruise to other stunning
locales as well, perfect for leisurely exploration.
Star Breeze moves to Tahiti early next year for
a taste of laid-back Polynesian life. Or book a
cabin on Star Legend or Star Pride to Iceland
where spotting puffins and minke whales
requires patience, an absolute test in slowing
down. Still not sure where to go? Let Windstar
lead you on a slow, curated trip to Japan where
you can meditate in the country’s beautiful
temples or take in the serenity and precision of
Bonsai gardens while enjoying the best sushi
in the world. The most difficult decision you’ll
have to make is where to go.
Windstar offers motorized
sailing trips on yachts
such as this one in Tahiti.
Courtesy: Windstar Cruises
Kayaking on an excursion
with Windstar Cruises in
Alaska offers a chance
for up-close viewings
of the area’s fjords
and glaciers.
Windstar’s smallship
cruises to
Alaska on the
Star Breeze bring
you up close to
ice floes, fjords
and waterfalls.
Courtesy:
Windstar Cruises
15

Emerald Cruises river voyages are experts at showing off the castles and coast in Europe.
Here the Emerald Liberté travels by the sights of Avignon. Photo Courtesy of Emerald Cruises
The optional hot air
balloon excursion
from French Country
Waterways provides a
glorious tour over the
town of Beaune and
nearby castles and
fields in Burgundy.
T
raveling at an inherently slow pace,
river cruises invite all ages to luxuriate in
the beauty of their destinations. Especially
popular are cruises along the Danube, Rhine,
and Seine and through Bordeaux. Scenic Cruises
and Emerald Cruises have mastered these itineraries,
offering intimate, indulgent sailings through wine country, past
castles, and picturesque villages with plenty of port stops to
encourage cultural explorations. History buffs can reflect upon the
D-Day landings in Normandy while art lovers can indulge their
passion with visits to the 11th-century Bayeux Tapestry, Monet’s
garden at Giverny, and the renowned collections at Musée des Beaux-
Arts de Rouen. Rhine cruising brings fairytale castles into view
while both the Rhine and the Danube lead to the bright lights and
festivities of Europe’s beloved Christmas markets. For those who can’t
decide on a single country to visit, Danube cruises also offer a mix of
stops including Budapest, Vienna, and Bratislava.
The elegant Scenic Diamond is a flagship vessel of the
luxury river Scenic river cruises.
16
Scenic Cruises offers
special on-land events
like an evening of wine
tasting and classical music
at the beautiful Château
D’Agassac, a stunning Haut-
Médoc estate in Bordeaux.
The beauty and grandeur of the city of Bordeaux
is evident on the Scenic Diamond’s river cruise on
the Garonne River. Courtesy: Scenic Cruises
I
f your
slow
cruising
fantasy
involves a more
intimate sailboat
or a yacht, there
are options for you too. In
New England, the Maine
Windjammer Association
offers what might be the
slowest of cruises on nine
historical schooners. More
appropriately dubbed
glamping at sea than
cruising, these striking
multi-masted sailing vessels
are helmed by a small
crew adept at entertaining,
managing changing wind
conditions, and galley
cooking. Slowing down here
provides an opportunity to
participate in the experience
firsthand and learn some
of the rudiments of sailing
like hoisting the mast,
reading the wind, or even
steering among the islets of
Penobscot Bay.
Adding luxury to sailing,
Star Clippers’ three tall ships
and Windstar’s sailing yachts
offer relaxed voyages in the
Mediterranean, Caribbean,
and Central America. These
graceful vessels evoke the
romance of the sea and
the vagaries of the wind
without the “roughing”
aspect experienced on a
windjammer. Cultural
immersions and personal
connections are the
attraction as the ships
glide into smaller ports
with fewer crowds or wend
their way on a transatlantic
crossing. On Star Clippers’
Star Clipper, Star Flyer,
and Royal Clipper, wind
power takes center stage
The beautiful schooner American Eagle is one of
nine historical sailing ships that sail among the
small islands of Penobscot Bay in Maine.
and you’re invited to recline on the
netting forward of the bow or their
beautiful teak decks, cocktail in hand,
and enjoy the sensation of the breeze
while doing nothing at all. Windstar
proffers motorized travel assisted
Star Clippers’ Royal Clipper
recalls the romance of clipper
ship sailing, powered by the
wind and its multiple sails.
Courtesy: Star Clippers
by the wind, adding a touch of speed to the
billowing sails overhead. You can cap a perfect
day of Windstar relaxation on the Wind Surf,
Wind Spirit, or Wind Star with a sauna or
“cocooning” body nectar wrap in the spa.
17

Goolets’ blue Ohana yacht is a family-friendly option for a crewed charter in Croatia.
Docking in Dubrovnik while on your Goolets
yacht allows you to choose the best time to
explore the steep stone streets of the historic
city. Avoid the crowds and do it your way.
The UNESCO World Heritage city of
Dubrovnik is one of the stops possible on a
chartered yacht itinerary from Goolets. You
can miss the crowds and enjoy the beautiful
coastline from your own private yacht.
18
Slowing down is
the watchword
on Goolets’
luxury Freedom
superyacht.
Lounging on the
deck, reading, or
enjoying the jacuzzi
are favorite guest
pastimes.
Goolets’ Freedom superyacht
sits peacefully in the calm
waters in Croatia, letting you
laze onboard or perhaps
choose to paddleboard nearby.
Courtesy: Goolets
A
yacht of your own may not be in the cards, but
you can pretend to have one for a week or longer
by chartering a vessel from Goolets’ fleet. Based in
Slovenia, the yacht and superyacht company crafts
personalized itineraries in Türkiye, Croatia, Italy, The
Maldives, and more. It’s the perfect option for a nopressure
holiday with your family, friends, or group of
your choosing. Each vessel is fully crewed, with every detail considered, from
dining to room comfort, excursions, and private stops that only a smaller boat
can access. A variety of vessels from superyachts to wooden gulets are available
to accommodate different budgets, with each boat having its own personality
and amenities. The newly refitted Freedom is the pinnacle of luxury with 11
cabins (including one with a deep-soak tub), a cinema, gym, spa, onboard
pool, and hot tub. Family-friendly Ohana has 14 staterooms, a children’s
playspace, and a full complement of water toys. Your activity level is yours
to determine. Spend the day lazing on the decks or floating in the crystalline
waters, or explore the gorgeous coastline with a ride in a tender. Taking it slow
translates to “life is good” in Goolets-speak, the company’s guiding principle.
Which type of cruise fits your concept of slow travel? I suggest you try them
all. Each has its own merits and you may find that one suits you more than
another. Regardless, take the time to slow down and embrace the moment. You
might be surprised at what you’ll discover along the way.
Goolets’ Ohana yacht offers family-friendly
amenities like the children’s play space.
You can decide whether to explore the
area or simply float on Freedom’s myriad
water toys when anchored. The crystal-blue
Dalmatian Coast water surrounding your
yacht might make up your mind.
19

Despite the
glaucoma that
robbed him of
his sight, the
blind sculptor’s
clouded eyes
twinkle with wit
and inspiration.
“When I
had my
vision,
I don’t
believe I
sculpted
as well as
I do now,”
José
García
observes.
Mermaids and
other mythical
creatures
are favorite
subjects.
Maestro José García
Breaking the Mold:
How a Blind Sculptor Found Vision in His Hands
Story and Photos by Melissa Adams
A Family Affair
he comment belies José García’s ongoing love
affair with a woman he calls his “goddess.”
After nearly four decades as his partner and muse,
Maestra Santa Reyna Teresita reveals, “I admire
him because he was never sad. He would tell me,
‘Don’t cry, because I’m the head of this household and
I’m going to work so you and our children can eat.’” Also
an accomplished artist, she adds finishing touches to her
husband’s pieces after he forms basic shapes using molds
or just his hands, then burnishes them with a smooth
stone. Fired pieces ranging from small table-toppers to
lifesize statues are left in their natural terracotta color and
signed with JGA, José García’s initials.
Teresita’s likeness, complete with the prominent
mole on her forehead, is reflected in many of her
husband’s sculptures of robust Zapotec women dressed
in traditional clothing from Oaxaca’s Tehuantepec
region. The area is known for one of the world’s most
distinctive regional costumes, featuring tightly packed,
floral embroidery in a bold rainbow of colors. Married
in 1987, José García and Teresita have three children
who’ve followed in their parents’ artistic footsteps. Son
José Miguel won the Friends of Oaxacan Folk Art’s 2008
young artists’ competition; daughter Sara Ernestina won
an honorable mention in the same contest. The siblings,
along with a son-in-law, work at the family compound,
hand-building clay pieces with slightly different styles and
firing their work in the atelier’s large brick kiln.
Of his ongoing love affair with Terrasita, José García says,
“We men are but beasts without our goddess.”
Teresita adds finishing touches to her husband’s pieces after
he forms basic shapes using molds or just his hands.
eep in the heart of Mexico,
about 25 miles south of
Oaxaca City on the road
to Puerto Angel, a blind
sculptor is breaking one
mold while carving another out
of adversity. When Maestro José García
lost his eyesight to glaucoma at age 55,
he abandoned neither hope nor the
motivation to continue creating his
whimsical terracotta figures.
While his sight dimmed, then all but
evaporated by 2003, José García’s
creative juices continued to flow and
visions of his favorite subjects – animals,
mermaids, and his beloved wife – still
danced in his head. As they coursed
through his mind and spirit, his other
senses grew stronger, enhancing his
ability to feel, smell, hear, and most
significantly, touch. Today his clouded
eyes are almost an accessory for the
bold indigenous garb he sports: a
deep purple shirt, ruby red sash belt,
magenta neck scarf, and loose-fitting
white pants, all typical of his rural
Mexican hometown.
Although glazed with cataracts,
José García’s pale eyes twinkle in his
animated face, below the wide brim
of a traditional Mexican sombrero
that shields them from the midday
sun. Now comfortable with darkness,
he prefers to work at night these days.
Reflecting on his declining vision, he
observes, “As a man I looked at my
life and said to myself, “I have lost my
sight, but not my life. Now I feel I can
see, but through touch, because I make
figures using my hands as if they were
my eyes.” His compromised sight has
not dampened his artistry. “When I
had my vision, I don’t believe I sculpted
as well as I do now,” he says, “because
today, all my time is for my work.”
The secret to maintaining hope
through adversity? “Mas fuerte
que la muerte es el amor” (love
is stronger than death), the
blind folk artist maintains.
Maestra Santa
Reyna Teresita has
been José García’s
partner and muse for
nearly four decades.
Many of José García’s sculptures of
robust Zapotec women resemble his
wife, complete with the prominent
mole on her forehead.
20
21

From Child Sculptor
to Grand Master
Experienced hands and an enhanced sense of touch have become reliable tools.
osé García’s artistic gifts first
emerged when he was a child in
rural Ocotlán de Morelos, a town
in the state of Oaxaca known
for its ceramics and folk art. As
a young boy, he recognized his
own talent when friends admired the
realistic clay figurines of horses and
giraffes he created just for fun. The
self-taught potter’s first commercial
pieces were incense burners for
Mexico’s Day of the Dead celebrations,
adorned with sassy skeletons and other
holiday-related figures. His creative
repertoire has since expanded to
include flower pots, nativity scenes,
animals, mythical creatures, toys, and
angels. Celestial bodies like the sun,
moon, and stars also loom large in
many creations.
22
Blindness has dimmed neither José García’s hope nor his motivation
to continue creating his whimsical terraccotta figures.
“Now I feel I can see, but through touch,” the blind sculptor explains.
Now in his mid-70s, José García
still sculpts with local red clay at
Manos Que Ven (Hands That See),
his sprawling family compound set
beyond the church, behind a tall gate
in San Antonino Castillo Velasco.
Known locally as San Antonino,
the small town is noted for its
handcrafts, gardens, and colorful floral
embroidery that adorns Teresita’s
blouses.
As recognition of José García’s artistry
has spread over several decades, he’s
received numerous awards, including
the prestigious Grand Master title
from Fomento Cultural Banamex
in 2001. His terracotta mermaids,
mythical creatures, and Zapotec
women have been featured in books
about master folk artists of Mexico.
Many have traveled far outside
Oaxaca, to worldwide private and
public collections, as well as shops,
homes, gardens, restaurants, and
hotels throughout Mexico.
The public can purchase pieces ranging from table-toppers to large garden statues from an on-site gallery at Manos Que Ven.
A Legacy of
Award-Winning Folk Art
anos Que Ven gallery curator Eric Chavez
takes pride in promoting José García’s
work. Calling him “an icon in Oaxacan folk
art,” Chavez notes, “The level of detail we
find in his creations inspires us to share
his work and to host exhibitions that help others enjoy it.”
Students from local schools often come to the compound
for demonstrations, hands-on sculpting workshops, and
creative inspiration. For José Garcia, the visits bring back
memories of discovering clay when he was just seven years
old, sculpting his first figurines not far from his current
workshop.
As José Garcia’s artwork travels across the world, his message
of positivity through difficult times travels too. Far from
sad or bitter, his whole household embraces his message of
overcoming adversity through hope and perseverance. Their
optimism has yielded a legacy of award-winning folk art.
José García’s whole family creates art
at Manos Que Ven (Eyes That See),
a sprawling compound in
San Antonino, Mexico.
23

Expansive and secluded Polihua Beach on Lānaʻi is approximately 1.5 miles long.
Discover Vintage Hawaii on
Lāna'i
The barren landscape at Garden of the Gods, also known as Keakiahwelo, is a significant cultural site on Lānaʻi, Hawaii.
Photo used with permission. Photo credit Four Seasons
Story and Photos by Nancy Besharah
Visit the approximately 1.5-mile-long Polihua
Beach on Lānaʻi with a four-wheel drive vehicle.
W
hoo, it's lunar!" sprinkle of dust float through the Jeep. states that the barren landscape resulted from
shouts my 11-yearold
from the rear We are exploring Garden of the Gods on Lāna'i, and a priest from the neighboring
a long ago challenge between Kawelo, a priest
seat of the Jeep on the secluded Hawaiian Island of island of Molokai. According to stories passed
Wrangler Sahara. Lāna'i in a rented four-wheel drive, the through the generations, the priests competed
White knuckles gripping the wheel, only vehicle equipped to handle the to see who could keep a fire burning the
I navigate the rutted, red-dirt track challenging geography. This storied and longest on their home island. Kawelo
bouncing alongside mammoth sacred place, known as Keahiakawelo gathered everything in the area to stoke his
boulders and rust-coloured rocks. (Ke-ahi-a-Kawelo) in Hawaiian, means fire, leaving the land barren.
24
Windows down, an earthy smell and "the fire made by Kawelo." A legend
25

The rugged ochre-colored landscape at Keakiahwelo, also known as Garden of the Gods.
Secluded Polihua Beach on Lānaʻi, Hawaii.
Photo used with permission.
Photo credit Four Seasons
26
Rolling to a stop at the
highest point, the
distant Pacific Ocean
and offshore islands
remind us that
we are still in
Hawaii (and not on a
Martian landscape).
The rugged, ochre-coloured terrain
stretches around us. A gentle breeze
rustles the solitude. Over a hundred
years ago, the introduction of grazing
animals led to natural vegetation being
stripped from Lāna'i, allowing strong
winds to erode the landscape. Today,
it's pleasant, but the wind can be wild
through Keahiakawelo, no doubt
fueling Kawelo's winning fire.
Brushing red dirt off our shoes
and limbs, we hop back in the Jeep
and descend the narrow, ragged
trail to remote Polihua Beach on
the northwest coast of Lāna'i. An
approaching cloud of dust signals an
oncoming vehicle, the first people
we've seen in over an hour. Pulling off
the trail to let them pass, we exchange
eager waves and Hawaii's signature
hang-loose hand signals.
After almost five miles, the brownred
hard-packed dirt merges into a
wide swath of creamy sand. I park
the 4x4 on the firm ground, avoiding
the soft sand notorious for trapping
vehicles. Squinting behind sunglasses,
I watch my kids charge along the
approximately 1.5-mile stretch of
brilliant sun-lit beach.
When the hotel concierge shared
information about the destination, I
discovered that Polihua means "cove
of eggs." The word is from a Hawaiian
tradition describing how honu (turtles)
climb onto the sand and lay their eggs.
Like many other places on Lāna'i,
the island's rich culture and history
connects the past to the present.
The sparkling Pacific Ocean is
tempting at postcard-perfect Polihua
Beach but unsafe for swimming (or
even dipping your toes) because of
the strong currents. Fortunately, there
are incredible places to swim in the
warm Pacific Ocean while visiting Lāna'i,
including Hulopo'e Bay. A protected
marine preserve with excellent snorkeling
amongst a kaleidoscope of fish, Hulopo'e
Bay has been recognized as one of
America's best beaches.
Filled with sunshine, so much sand, and
the perfect amount of solitude, we buckle
into the Jeep for the return trip back
through the Garden of the Gods, and onto
Lāna'i City and civilization.
But it wasn't about to get too busy. Lāna'i
City, the island's center, isn’t a typical
city. There are no traffic lights or big
box stores. Founded in the early 1900s
as a plantation town, when Lanai was
responsible for 75 percent of the world's
pineapple production, Lāna'i City's
population is around 3000. It's smalltown
Hawaii, where residents and visitors
gather, dine at locally-owned cafes, and
shop for art and essentials. A trip to
the island of Lāna'i is an opportunity to
experience vintage Hawaii, where culture
and nature are the star attractions.
How to Get to Lana'i
And Where to Stay
You can reach Lāna'i by water or
air. The Expeditions passenger ferry
is a convenient and scenic way to
travel to Lāna'i from Maui, a nearby
Hawaiian Island. In the winter months
(December - April), Humpback
Whales can often be seen during the
crossing, so sit on the open-air upper
deck for the best views. Commercial
inter-island flights are another option
if you prefer to fly to Lāna'i Airport.
You can visit Lāna'i for a day, but
to experience all the island offers,
plan to spend a few days or weeks.
For a luxury stay, reserve the familyfriendly
Four Seasons Lanai (https://
www.fourseasons.com/lanai/) or the
adults-only Sensei Lanai (https://
www.fourseasons.com/sensei/). For a
modern but rustic experience, book a
guest room at the plantation-inspired
Hotel Lāna'i (https://www.hotellanai.
com/) located in Lāna'i City.
There are many activities on the 90,000-
acre island of Lāna'i, including hiking, ATV
tours, 4x4 vehicle rental, horse riding, an
aerial adventure park, cultural sites, and
immersive Love Lāna'i cultural activities.
The surrounding Pacific Ocean offers
sailing, diving, and snorkeling in certain
places. Use the Lāna'i by Four Seasons
activity guide, available on the Four Seasons
Lanai website, to help plan your vacation.
For more information, download the
Lanai App (https://apps.apple.com/us/
app/l%C4%81na-i-guide/id1032057813) on
your iPhone or iPad.
Polihua Beach
27

Sharntel Scott shows the nailbone she created
by taking off the bowl of a silver spoon and
sharpening the severed end.
SHARNTEL SCOTT creates
sweetgrass basketry treasures outside
Boone Hall’s plantation house.
28
Rosettes woven into sweetgrass baskets can
be made from a number of materials, including
palms, palmetto fronds, and bulrush reeds.
Weaving the Past into the Future
The Pineapple Fountain is a focal point of the Charleston Waterfront Park.
Christmas Wreaths: Some of
Sharntel Scott’s creations hanging
on a fence outside Boone Hall.
Story and Photos by
Janet Rae-Dupree
Sharntel Scott uses a nailbone to push the
palmetto fronds through the coils of sweetgrass.
eyond Charleston’s rich
history, cobblestone
streets, and elegant
architecture lies a
handmade treasure
deeply rooted in the
African American
heritage of the
Lowcountry — the art of
sweetgrass basketry.
Representing both a symbol and a
lifeline for formerly enslaved people
over three centuries, these intricately
woven gold-and-brown masterpieces
can be found in marketplaces and
galleries throughout the greater
Charleston area.
The story of sweetgrass basketry begins
in Barbados and West Africa, where
young girls have honed their skills
for generations, coiling shukublay
baskets so tightly that they can hold
water. When enslaved Africans arrived
in South Carolina during the 17th
century, they brought this traditional
basketweaving knowledge with them.
They soon discovered that the marshes
of the Lowcountry harbored an
abundance of soft, fine sweetgrass that
could be woven in much the same way
as the native grasses of their homeland.
Sharntel Scott deftly pushes palmetto
fronds through coils of sweetgrass.
Using only a simple tool called a
nailbone — made by cutting the
bowls off old silver spoons and honing
the severed end to a sharp point —
basketweavers push palmetto fronds
through coils of dried sweetgrass to
create the foundation of each basket.
Bulrush reeds and pine needles join the
mix to strengthen and decorate baskets
as they progress.
Enslaved people used the baskets to
winnow rice chaff from the grain, carry
cotton, and store dried foods — boosting
productivity on South Carolina’s
plantations. Slaves who could produce
suitably tight baskets were highly valued.
Because mothers passed their knowledge
on to their daughters, slave owners
would keep basketweaving families intact
— rather than selling off children — to
encourage the development of the skill.
After emancipation, Gullah Geechee
families continued to pass basketweaving
secrets to each new generation. Over
the centuries, the baskets have become
increasingly ornate as artisans bring
their own personal flair to the work. In
2008, Charleston artist Mary Jackson
won the $500,000 MacArthur Grant in
recognition of her sculptured,
undulating designs.
Green palmetto fronds used to bind the
coils together soon will turn a golden
brown as the basket dries and ages.
Larger, more ornate sweetgrass baskets
can cost hundreds of dollars.
One of Sharntel Scott’s sweetgrass
creations for sale outside of Boone Hall.
29

hile Jackson’s work can cost in the tens of
thousands of dollars (if you can find it), even
pieces done by unknown artisans are pricey. The
tiniest baskets and jewelry pieces start around
$15. As the size, intricacy, and time required to
produce a work increase, prices rapidly jump into
the hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Today, both daughters and sons begin to learn basketry as young as four
years old. At Boone Hall in Mount Pleasant, basket weaver Sharntel
Scott sells her creations outside the gates of the plantation house.
Palmetto roses are woven into the sides of some baskets.
“My mom and grandma started teaching me when I was six years old,”
she says, deftly twisting a still-green palmetto frond around coils of
sweetgrass as she begins to fashion a new basket. “I don’t know how
many generations were doing it before them. I’ve taught my daughter
and my son how to do it, too.”
While her family appears poised to carry on the tradition, others are
seeing younger generations turn away.
“I’ve been doing this for 70 years now but I’m the last one,” says Gloria
Walker, who sells her baskets at the central Charleston Public Market
several days each week. “My children know how, but they’re not in
Charleston anymore.”
She reflects quietly as she packs up her work at the end of a long, hot
day at the bustling market.
Sweetgrass coils form three-dimensional art.
“There’s no one left to carry this on. I’m the last.”
Of the many amazing things that have happened in Buffalo during recent years, the city’s
emergence as a top-tier creative and cultural destination ranks near the top of the list.
The reopening of the internationally-renowned Buffalo AKG Art Museum — after three
years and a $200 million expansion — is the latest chapter in that remarkable story, and
one you can’t miss. Come see for yourself.
30
A single palmetto rose accents the
beauty of a sweetgrass basket.
Necklaces and earrings catch the day’s
last sun in the Charleston City Market.
Artisans at Charleston City Market create
signature looks for their sweetgrass baskets.
31

Finding Paradise
in Tahiti with
Windstar Cruises
Perfect Weather
All-Year Round
The islands of Tahiti and the Tuamotu
Islands have perfect weather all year round
with warm temperatures and gentle trade
winds. While there are two seasons, the
dry season (April to October) and the wet
season November to March), even during
the wet season, there is plenty of sunshine
with a few intermittent showers.
I did experience some tropical rain
showers when I was there in May, but
within minutes the sun peaked out and the
remainder of the days were glorious.
Island Hopping to
Unique Polynesian
Luxury Resorts Before
My Windstar Cruise
Welcome sign at Vahine Island Private Island Spa and Resort
Story and Photos by Judi Cohen
(Traveling Judi)
Exploring French Polynesia is not limited
to cruises; the region is also home to some
exceptional hotels and resorts. Flying
from island to island is quite convenient
and not too expensive. If you have lots
of time, you can also travel by boat or
ferry. Here are just two of the best island
resorts I experienced before my cruise with
Windstar.
Some dreams do come true!
Vahine Island Resort -
A Hidden Gem on a
Private Island
Our villa at Vahine Island
Resort in French Polynesia
Breakfast with a view of the overwater
bungalows at Vahine Island Resort and Spa
32
While I’d always dreamt of going
to Tahiti, I could never have
imagined how wonderful my time
in the remote French Polynesian
islands in the South Pacific Ocean
would be. Tahiti has a worldwide
reputation as a honeymoon
destination, known for luxurious
and expensive over-water
bungalows. The Society Islands
and the remote Tuamotu Islands
of Fakarava and Rangiroa were
indeed romantic, uncrowded,
and serene.
Arriving in Papeete after a 15-
hour flight from Toronto via San
Francisco, I felt a warm tropical
breeze and heard the sounds of
a Polynesian band welcoming
us to the islands of Tahiti. For
the next 4 weeks, all my dreams
would indeed come true enjoying
exclusive Polynesian resorts and
a romantic Windstar cruise in this
South Pacific paradise.
Vahine Island Private Island Resort
One of the hidden gems I found was
Vahine Island Resort on a private island
in the Taha'a Lagoon. I flew from Papeete
to Raiatea and was met at the airport by
a private captain for a 20-minute boat
transfer to Vahine Island. If you are
looking for an intimate, exclusive, and
secluded place to stay for a few days, this is
it. I stayed in one of only nine beachfront
and overwater bungalows, enjoying the
white sand beach, gourmet dining with
French and Polynesian cuisine, and
relaxing in the spa.
Sunset view from
hotel in Raiatea
Waiting for our private boat to
Raiatea from Vahine Island
33

Sunset view from Le Tahiti Hotel with Moorea in the background
Le Tahiti Pearl Resort
on Tahiti
The show at Le Tahiti
Resort in Papeeter
Located on the west coast of Tahiti, on a
quiet bay with a long black sand beach
and a spectacular infinity pool with views
of the Island of Moorea, Le Tahiti Pearl
Resort was a quiet, luxurious escape from
the hustle and bustle in Papeete while still
being a convenient base for exploring the
island.
The beachfront restaurant served
international and Polynesian food,
complemented by an elaborate Polynesian
show once a week that had everyone on
their feet dancing.
The show at
Le Tahiti
Resort in
Papeeter
Soft black sand beach at
Le Tahiti Resort-Papeete
Wind Spirit in Bora Bora
Memorable Moments with
Windstar Cruises aboard
Wind Spirit
On this trip, I did an 11-day Windstar
Cruise. My first glimpse of Windstar’s
sailing yacht, Wind Spirit at the port in
Papeete left me speechless. The stunning
small ship bobbed gracefully alongside
some larger traditional cruise ships and
military vessels.
As the ship set sail, the crew welcomed
us warmly to what would prove to be an
extraordinary journey on our 145-guest
sailing ship. From that moment on, staff
remembered my name, and my food and
drink preferences, creating a very personal
and intimate experience.
Epic Sail Aways
34
At each sail away, guests gathered on the
outside decks in flowy linen and gauze
clothing with drinks in hand - my favorite
was the Aperol Spritz. As the sun was
setting and the sky was bursting with color,
the dramatic music from the ship’s speakers
grew louder, and all eyes were fixed on
the giant white masts as the sails began to
unfurl one at a time. This experience is now
etched forever in my heart.
Judi enjoying an
Aperol Spritz at sunset
on Wind Spirit
Romantic Sail Away on Windstar
35

36
Mamas and Papas on
Pool Deck
Snorkeling in Pufana, Fakarava
A warm welcome by our host at the
Green Lagoon in Rangiroa
Judi's ride for an island
tour of Bora Bora
Judi snorkelling in Pufana, Fakarava
The Mammas and Pappas
on the Pool Deck
We were invited onto the pool deck to meet the ‘Mamas and
Papas’, (not the 1960’s band), who immersed us in Polynesian
culture by making flower leis, wrapping us in traditional
clothing, playing ukuleles, and singing. We even learned to
hula. Having been in French Polynesia for a few weeks before
the cruise, I came to love the warmth and kindness of the
Tahitians. It was such a treat to spend a few hours with these
men and women learning about their culture and traditions.
Legendary Bora Bora
With its iconic overwater bungalows, miles of quiet white sand
beaches, and lush landscapes, Bora Bora did not disappoint! I
toured the island in a colourful open bus stopping at beaches,
exquisite resorts, and Bloody Mary’s, a bar made famous by all
the celebrities who have visited over the years. As if this was not
enough, I then did a snorkeling adventure in the coral gardens,
swimming among vibrant tropical fish and graceful manta rays..
Snorkeling in
Fakarava in the
Tuamotu Archipelago
In Fakarava, a hidden gem in the Tuamotu Islands, the waters
and underwater sea life are designated as a UNESCO Biosphere
Reserve. Sailing on a small ship in this remote part of the world,
I was able to explore the underwater wonders while snorkeling
in the immense Garuae Pass, where schools of colorful tropical
fish danced around the vibrant coral reef teeming with life.
Visiting World Renowned
Dive Spots in Rangiroa
Rangiroa, one of the largest atolls in the Tuamotus and is a
world-renowned dive spot. As a non-diver, I was able to snorkel
in pristine waters in the Blue Lagoon surrounded by schools
of butterflyfish, turtles, manta rays, and hammerhead sharks. I
could have stayed for hours in the crystal-clear waters.
We then visited the Green Lagoon for a relaxing beach
adventure at a private home. As we arrived on a small
motorboat, a very happy man playing a tiny ukulele welcomed
us to his home. We made ourselves comfortable on the beach,
swam, and snorkeled in the clear, warm water before returning
to the ship.
BBQ and Beach Party on
Moto Mahaea, Windstar’s
Private Island in Taha’a
Following a magical snorkeling excursion
surrounded by black tip sharks and black stingrays,
which initially made me uncomfortable and
frightened, turned out to be one of the best snorkel
experiences ever! Our guide assured us that we
would be safe in the water. Following this, a small
rubber Zodiac whisked us over to Windstar’s
Private Island, just off the Island of Taha’a.
While guests were off on various excursions, the
Windstar staff and crew created an exclusive and
intimate atmosphere on the tiny Moto Mahaea,
like Gilligan’s Isle, where a fully catered elaborate
BBQ lunch was served and bartenders at a tiki bar
served up every tropical drink imaginable.
A Serene and
Uncrowded Destination
Tahiti and the Tuamotu Islands offer an escape
from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Unlike
some popular tourist destinations, these islands
are still relatively unspoiled, providing a sense of
serenity and seclusion. With fewer crowds and
pristine natural beauty, a sailing cruise allows
you to immerse yourself in this remote paradise
and visit tiny atolls and motus that are too small
to even have names - and go where larger ships
simply can’t go.
Final Thoughts
Wind Spirit with its timeless elegance provided an
intimate sailing experience in arguably one of the
most breathtaking parts of the world! This was a
once-in-a-lifetime trip creating memories that will
last a lifetime. My wish is to return to Tahiti with
my husband and share my next experience sailing
with Windstar Cruises in this French Polynesian
paradise.
I hope my photos and highlights have convinced
you that you too should consider a Windstar cruise
in Tahiti for one of the most romantic vacations
anywhere.
Tiki Bar on Moto Mahaea,
Windstar's Private Island
Judi arriving at Motu
Mahaea Private Island
Prepping for the BBQ deck
party on Wind Spirit
At the bar in Bloody
Marys, Bora Bora
Route Map for Tahiti and Tuamotu Island Itinerary on Wind Spirit-Windstar
37

Taste the World
In New Orleans
Story and Photos by Ian & Tonya Fitzpatrick
There are few cities as richly diverse as New Orleans (NOLA) and with such diversity,
offers the world on a plate. You can literally travel the world through your palate as
you enjoy the global cuisines and traditional Creole dishes throughout the city.
During a recent visit to New Orleans, we intentionally sought out Black-owned and ethnic
restaurants and we were treated to the tastes from America’s South to Senegal and Israel.
We dined at three Black-owned restaurants:
Café Sbisa, Lil’ Dizzy’s and Dakar NOLA and the Israeli-owned Saba restaurant
—all recipients of James Beard Awards.
So prepare to travel the world through your palate as we share
some of the best and most unique meals we’ve had in New Orleans.
CAFÉ SBISA
A Black-owned
Fine-dining Tradition
stablished in 1899, Café Sbisa is a classic Creole restaurant
and the third oldest fine-dining establishment in the French
Quarter. Located across from the French Market, Café Sbisa’s
historical setting is donned with an elegant hard-carved
mahogany bar from 1903 that showcases a mural from the famous
artist George Dureau. Owner, Chef Alfred Singleton serves patrons
traditional dishes such as gumbo, jambalaya, and shrimp Creole,
as well as fresh seafood and steaks. During our visit, we enjoyed
two favorites—Trout Eugene (filet of trout topped with Louisiana
shrimp, crawfish tails, and crab in a champagne cream sauce) and
Blackened Redfish (served over grilled asparagus, Louisiana jumbo
lump crabmeat finished with citrus butter sauce). Café Sbisa has won
a James Beard Award for Best Wine Program and, of course, our fine
meals were paired with wines from their award-winning selections.
LI’L DIZZY’S CAFE
Soul Food in
Historic Treme
hen people think of soul food and New Orleans, the first
restaurant that may come to mind is Dooky Chase and
its legendary Creole chef Leah Chase (click here to listen
to our interview with the late Leah Chase). However,
there’s another legendary family-owned and operated Creole soul
food restaurant that also deserves some flowers—Li’l Dizzy’s.
This landmark Mural over the mahogany bar
in the historic Cafe Sbisa is a centerpiece
inside the fine dining establishment.
Located in the historic Treme neighborhood, Li’l Dizzy’s is a local
institution that serves up classic southern dishes such as grits,
greens, fried chicken, and an incredible mac-n-cheese for lunch.
Ian Fitzpatrick and Kelly Schultz leading
the way into Li'l Dizzy's Cafe.
Opened in 2005 by Wayne Baquet Sr, who learned about the
restaurant industry from his father Eddie Baquet, Sr., of 7th Ward
Eddie’s restaurant fame, Li’l Dizzy’s earned a James Beard America's
Classic Award, which recognizes regional establishments that have
timeless appeal. Now owned and operated by Wayne, Jr. and his
wife Arkesha, they keep the traditions of producing great fried
chicken and Creole soul food alive and a constant stream of patrons
will attest to that. After dining on fried chicken, green beans, grits,
smothered pork chops, greens, and mac-n-cheese, we can also attest
to the finger-licking, lip-smacking, tummy-rubbing good food that
Li’l Dizzy’s serves up.
Inside Li'l Dizzy's in Treme.
38
African masks cover the walls in a section of Dakar NOLA’s restaurant.
SIDE NOTE: Li’l Dizzy’s has limited indoor and outdoor seating and they
don’t take reservations. But Arkesha seats and manages the constant stream of
patrons like a well-tuned assembly line so the wait is not too long and, since
meals are served in takeaway containers, customers can order and go.
Since 1947, the Baquet family
has owned and operated over 10
restaurants, and Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe
is the only one that remains.
39

Before the first course is served,
Chef Mbaye enters the dining room
to describe each course and share its
cultural and historical significance.
The menu varies slightly from
night to night but there are several
constants like ataya, a ginger and
mint Senegalese tea (heavy on the
ginger) that excites the palate for the
dishes to come.
SABA A Fresh Take on Middle Eastern Cuisine
aba, which means Grandfather in Hebrew, is a culinary love letter
to Israel and New Orleans by James Beard Award-winning chef Alon
Shaya. Like grandfathers who have many life experiences and stories
to share, Saba shares stories about the intersections of food and culture
with a menu that reflects the tastes of the Middle East, Europe, and North
Africa with Louisiana flavor. Located in Uptown New Orleans, Saba features
traditional dishes like falafel, lamb kebab, and tabbouleh, along with many
vegetarian and gluten-free options—all served with a modern twist.
Exterior of Dakar NOLA
DAKAR NOLA
Senegalese Dood with
A Modern Twist
ne of the most unique and immersive
dining experiences we’ve ever had was at
Dakar Nola. Located in Mid-City New
Orleans, Dakar NOLA is a Senegalese
tasting restaurant that offers a 7-course pescatarian
menu created by Serigne Mbaye, a James Beard
Award finalist for emerging chef. As its name
suggests, Dakar NOLA’s menu features seafood,
produce, and spices from the two coastal cities of
Senegal and Louisiana. The menu pays homage to
the Senegalese and other West Africans who were
brought to Louisiana during the slave trade and
the food traditions that still echo in New Orleans
today.
Interior of Dakar NOLA displays its Communal Dining Room
The Fonio Salad is the third course
served at Dakar NOLA. It comprises
of West African millet, mixed green,
carrots and smoked trout roe.
The Last Meal (Black eyed peas,
crab meat and palm oil) is one of
the first meals served at Dakar
NOLA.
Another staple course and, our
favorite, is what’s known in Senegal
as the “Last Meal”—a dish featuring
black-eyed peas that enslaved
Africans were fed before their forced
sailings across the Atlantic. In Chef
Mbaye’s version, the black-eyed
peas are served on crispy rice which
adds a wonderful texture and it is
topped with lump crab meat and
palm oil, a Senegalese staple. Other
courses we enjoyed were a nice
blend of West African and Louisiana
ingredients, like Parce Que—gulf
shrimp, cabbage, and tamarind jus
and the Fonio Salad that included
West African millet, Compostela
mixed greens, carrots, and smoked
trout roe.
Every menu item at Dakar NOLA
is inspired by Chef Serigne Mbaye’s
most cherished childhood memories
and times spent cooking with his
mother in Senegal.
Our palates explored the various culinary landscapes through dishes we
enjoyed like hummus-topped Louisiana blue crab. That is the best hummus
we’ve ever had and it was served with large squares of wood-fired pita bread.
We also enjoyed the grilled Louisiana shrimp with accompanying labneh,
roasted peppers, turmeric, and pistachio duqqa, as well as lamb kofta with
whipped tahini, blistered peppers, and toasted pine nuts.
The Diversity of Food
afe Sbisa, Little Dizzy's, Dakar, and Saba are among the most popular and
celebrated restaurants in New Orleans. These eateries have not only been
recognized for their diverse representation and delicious food but also for
their unique character and local significance. Winning James Beard Awards
is a testament to the quality and innovation of these restaurants and solidifies their
status as essential destinations for food lovers in New Orleans. Whether you're
in the mood for classic Creole dishes, Southern breakfast favorites, West African
cuisine, or modern Israeli fare, these restaurants are sure to deliver a memorable
dining experience. And you can experience the world without a passport.
RESOURCES:
Café Sbisa: https://cafesbisanola.com/
Follow Café Sbiisa on IG: https://www.instagram.com/sbisanola/
Li’l Dizzy’s Café: https://lildizzyscafe.net/
Follow Li’l Dizzy’s on IG: https://www.instagram.com/lildizzyscafe504/
There is only one seating time for dinner at
Dakar NOLA and there are only 30 place settings
available in the communal dining room which is
beautifully decorated with African artwork and
textiles.
Dakar NOLA: https://www.dakarnola.com/
Dakar NOLA on IG: https://www.instagram.com/dakarnola/
Saba: https://eatwithsaba.com/
Saba on IG: https://www.instagram.com/EATWITHSABA/
The multiple-course dining experience at Dakar
starts with traditional handwashing at the table. A
fragrant liquid soap is placed in the hands of every
diner while a teapot of warm water is poured over
hands as they are washed above a brass bowl that
catches the stream of water. Each diner is then
given a hot hand towel to dry their hands.
40
Gulf Fish a la Senegalaise is the sixth
course served at Dakar NOLA. This
dish includes Flounder, snap peas,
greens, crawfish and domoda sauce.
Bouye with Ponchatoula
strawberry, baobab and cafe
Touba ice cream is the delicious
final course at Dakar NOLA
Ian Fitzpatrick and Chef
Mbaye of Dakar discussing the
history and symbolism of the
different dinner courses.
Interview with Leah Chase: https://www.worldfootprints.com/radio_show/
beyond-new-orleans-french-quarter/
Visit New Orleans: https://www.neworleans.com/
ADDITIONAL:
Dooky Chase: https://www.dookychaserestaurants.com/
41

Food of the Tribe:
Wild Bearies
Serves a Three Course Meal Made
Exclusively From Local Ingredients
The non-profit community outreach catering
organization based in Wisconsin prepares
ancestral foods to strengthen Indigenous
communities while preserving flavors.
A wild lettuce salad with all locally grown garnishes.
Smoked turkey local purple potatoes and zucchini all locally grown.
Story, Photos and Video by Dennis Cieri
Elena Terry
Executive Chef and
Founder of Wild Bearies
lena Terry is the
Executive Chef/
Founder of Wild
Bearies, a non-profit
catering organization
that supports those who are
overcoming alcohol and other drug
abuse issues or emotional traumas.
After working in the restaurant
industry for over ten years she decided
to merge her love of traditional
cooking with community building to
bring ancestral foods to communities
in a nurturing and nourishing way.
Today, she can be found helping
people start meaningful conversations
at the table through a number of
programs that teach people to prepare
traditional Indigenous cuisine and
preserve these flavors for generations
to come.
“Our program uses food as a vessel
for healing for wellness for really
42
supporting each other and focuses on the
conversations that happen at the table and
the camaraderie and the friendships and
relationships that are built there… For us,
it's the process. It's preparing this food,
it's having these conversations, the work
that is being done here, and preserving
our ancestors and bringing them back to
our community,” says Elena to the group
sampling a three-meal course she has
prepared.
She begins by serving the wild salad,
which is composed of vegetables sourced
locally from a nearby farm in Madison,
WI. It is a colorful combination of
roasted squash, candied corn, wild rice,
cranberries, and fresh greens topped with
a cranberry vinaigrette.
“So with every component, I want you
to think about all of the care and the
attention that went into that part of
this holistic wellness that we're talking
about and really making change not only
in our community but in the greater
communities that we reside in,” says Elena.
In November of 2022, the non-profit
organization was featured in the
American Food History Project’s
Cooking Up History at the Smithsonian
in Washington, DC. Elena and her
daughter Zoe Fess prepared their
signature dish Seedy SassSquash in front
of a live audience for a project that has
welcomed nearly 100 guest chefs to
showcase their heritage through cultural
cuisine since it began in 2015, reports
Civil Eats.
She ends the meal by serving a dessert
that truly brings home the nonprofit's
mission: a squash tart. A base composed
of sweet bean puree made from Gump
beans that were grown on-site at the
farm, buttercup squash from the
Menominee Nation University, and
a sweet corn cake also made from
corn grown on the farm – all topped
with a cranberry sauce and a wild rice
marshmallow made from hand-harvested
wild rice from northern Minnesota.
Relaxing on Becky’s farm,
Ukwakhwa, while the
food is cooking.
Website: https://wildbearies.org/
Elena Terry toasting
rice-marshmellow toppers
Food of the Tribe:
VIDEO
Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/wildbeariescatering
Instagram: @wild.bearies
A Squash tart using all locally grown products.
43

ON THE FLY AT
BROADMOOR
y heart raced as I struggled to hold
the 11-inch rainbow trout, slippery as
an iPhone without a case, as I posed
for a photo. I froze, spellbound by the
glistening creature. “Put her in the
water until she’s calm and ready to swim
away,” my guide Robert Younghanz instructed, snapping me
out of my trance.
RUSTIC-LUXE
FLY FISHING
Within seconds, the iridescent beauty slid from my hands.
We stood motionless and watched the fish glide upstream.
Then we broke into grins and high-fived. Robert beamed
like a proud pop, and I was shaking. I had caught my first
fish ever.
Camp for Fly Fishers
CAMP
I had come to Broadmoor Fly Fishing Camp with a friend
who is an experienced fly fisher. Fortunately, the secluded
retreat, in a pristine Colorado mountain setting, caters to fly
fishers at all levels. Located 75 miles west of the Broadmoor
Resort, the private lodge sits along five miles of the Tarryall
River and borders Lost Creek Wilderness.
Entrance to Broadmoor Fly Fishing Camp,
75 miles west of Broadmoor Resort
Story and photos by
Sherry Spitsnaugle
The camp offers seven guest cabins, which the website
describes as rustic. But fluffy white towels with an
embroidered signature “B,” high thread count linens,
gourmet cuisine, top-shelf bourbon, and exceptional service
are first-class.
After all, it IS the BROADMOOR!
Broadmoor Fly Fishing Camp sits in a pristine area
about 75 miles west of the Broadmoor Resort
44
Author Sherry Spitsnaugle casts a line.
Author Sherry Spitsnaugle poses with the rainbow trout she
caught at Broadmoor Fly-Fishing Camp
Sitting area at Broadmoor Fly Fishing Camp Lodge
45

Author Sherry Spitsnaugle
with fly-fishing gear.
Guide Robert Younghanz
gives not only guidance but
encouragement on the river.
Tackling the waders
y friend and I each had our own guide, a smart decision since she was
heading toward the river as I fumbled with the neoprene wonders called
waders.
I climbed into the chest waders with suspenders and then put on a pair of water
boots. Robert politely helped me cinch my belt and buckle my boots, like dressing a
kindergartner for school. “You must have drawn the short straw,” I teased.
At last, I was ready for the river. If nothing else, I looked the part. The thought
entered my mind that the rubbery overalls could get steamy after a day in the sun,
and I flashed back to college days when my roommate and I wore silly rubber getups
that were supposed to sweat off the pounds. I thought to myself, If I don’t catch a
fish, maybe at least, I’ll end up with Barbie doll thighs.
Ready for the river
obert and I trekked for 15 minutes through a grassy meadow before
we arrived at the river’s edge where we would cross. I hesitated as I
surveyed the rushing water and slippery-smooth rocks.
My boots were a tad large, and I felt wobbly. Robert immediately offered
his arm, so I could hang on as we made our way to the other side. Robert waded into
the middle of the river, overturned a couple of rocks from the bottom, and examined
them for bugs. He followed with an impromptu entomology lesson. “Knowing bugs
helps me fish,” he said, as he attached a fly to the end of the line.He talked about the
sport he loves, how to read the water, and about flies, with names like black spider
and wooly bugger.
Robert holds degrees in entomology, also known as bugology and Asian studies.
Even his Instagram name is The Bug Guy. He says he loves fly fishing because there’s
always something new to learn, and because it’s a quiet, meditative sport. “And, trout
live in beautiful places,” he said, gesturing to the Rocky Mountains. With 27 years
of experience on the river, he knows every ploy possible to hook a fish. And, he has
a reverence for the environment. “The most important thing out here is respect,” he
said. “Respect for the river, the fish, the land.”
Fly fishing 101 –
Woo the fish
obert showed me how to properly
hold the rod and how to roll cast. He
reviewed how to manage the strike
indicator, mending, creating a delicate
presentation for the fish, like we were “wooing it,” and
how to set the hook if I got a nibble.
After an hour, I had snagged two twigs, a branch,
and myself. “It’s okay. You’re doing great! Robert
encouraged me even as he had to untangle my line.
My mind wandered as the strike indicator floated
down the river. Suddenly, Robert hollered, “SET!” I
had a nibble but didn’t secure the hook. “That’s okay,
there will be more,” he reassured.
Catch me if you can
e moved to other places on the
water’s edge, and I was content
repeatedly lobbing my fly in the
water. Then, the strike indicator
sank. This time I was paying attention.
“It’s a dance,” Robert said, talking me through how
to bring the fish in. “Sometimes you have to let the
tension on the line go and the fish can wander, but
then you have to tighten the slack, and reel the fish
back in.”
My rod bowed as the fish fought. Robert grabbed his
net and scooped up the gorgeous rainbow, careful
to keep her in the water. He instructed me to get my
hands wet before touching the fish to protect it.
‘Casting Flies,
Telling Lies’
y friend and her guide were returning at the same
time, and the four of us shared stories from the day
about the fish we landed and the ones that got away.
I was glad to ditch the waders and shower in time
for happy hour on the sprawling porch at the main lodge.
Two more guests who had flown into Colorado Springs, rented a car,
and driven to the camp, joined us, as we enjoyed wine and caviar.
The longtime buddies said they were happy to escape the heat of
Texas even if it was just for a long weekend. They chose this retreat
because of the standards of service of The Broadmoor. “We knew
if it had anything to do with The Broadmoor, everything would be
top-notch.”
Chef Grant, dressed in whites, came out onto the porch to announce
dinner. We headed for a family-style meal in the dining room, where
décor included a map of the river and a sign on the wall that read,
“Casting Flies, Telling Lies.”
Our gourmet dinner included Kurobuta pork chops, blackened
Chilean salmon, roasted Yukon gold potatoes, roasted asparagus,
and spinach salad. The meal was superb. But my favorite part of
the evening was chatting with other guests. We went around the
table and shared stories about the fish that got away, the thrill of the
tussle, and in one case, landing one after another.
Everyone had a fish tale.
For the first time in my life, so did I.
Holding the exquisite, velvety fish—even for a
second—was emotional. After a quick photo, I
carefully cradled her in the water, hoping she wasn’t
stressed before she swam away.
We had the river to ourselves, and I watched as Robert
gracefully cast his line in a figure-eight motion,
looking every bit the part of Brad Pitt in A River Runs
Through It. I wondered if people fish as an excuse to
get away from it all.
Guide Robert Younghanz and author
Sherry Spitsnaugle pose for a photo
after a day on the river.
46
Stream minutes from rustic-luxe fly fishing camp
With Robert’s help, I
caught two more beauties.
Broadmoor Fly Fishing Camp lodge offers a great
porch where guests gather for happy hour.
47

Wonderful Windsor
Story and Photos by Nicole Pensiero
St. George’s Chapel is where Queen Elizabeth II was laid to rest -- and where 10 other sovereigns
are entombed, including Henry VIII. The Chapel was finished in 1528, during Henry’s reign.
48
The Lantern Lobby at Windsor Castle was built after the devastating 1992 Fire. It was
here, in fact, where the fire began at what was then Queen Victoria’s private chapel -
Royal Collection Trust/©His Majesty King Charles III 2023. Photographer: Peter Smith
he idea of visiting
Windsor Castle
probably first took hold
while watching the
2018 royal wedding
between the nowcontroversial
Duke and Duchess
of Sussex, Harry and Meghan. But
it was the solemn pageantry of
Queen Elizabeth II’s funeral last
September – which concluded
with her internment at Windsor
Castle -- that sealed the deal: I
wanted to visit Windsor Castle.
So here I was, on a solo four-day
getaway to London, where, on
my last day, I’d sightsee in the
capital with a longtime English
friend. In London, I enjoyed all
the typical tourist attractions in
surprisingly warm and sunny
February weather -- including a
visit to Westminster Abbey, where
the coronation of King George III
was held in May. To me, that and the
fascinating Tower of London are the
two don’t-miss attractions in London;
the history is mind-blowing, and they
are both visually dazzling to behold.
There was also a ride on the London
Eye – not nearly as tall as The Shard,
which also offers amazing views from
above – but perhaps more dramatic
because of its Ferris wheel-like vibe.
Joined by an English friend, we
then savored an afternoon tea at the
Royal Albert Hall, one of the true
highlights of my visit. Complete with
delicate pastries and beautiful tea
sandwiches (including curry-flavored
“Coronation Chicken,” a popular
British favorite created for Queen
Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953), it was,
as they say, an experience.
Planning a day trip to Windsor Castle
on one of my three “free” days seemed
like an interesting little adventure.
And, as I was soon to discover, it
was surprisingly easy, too. Windsor
Castle, like Westminster Abbey,
played a major part in King Charles’
recent coronation. While 2,000 guests
attended the crowning ceremony
at the Abbey – and millions more
watched it on TV – Windsor Castle
was the site of a “Coronation Concert”
the following day. Thousands of
people – by way of a lottery – were
able to attend this first-time-ever
concert on the Castle grounds,
featuring everyone from Lionel Richie
to Andrew Lloyd Webber and Katy
Perry. There was great music, dancing,
colorful aerial displays, and exuberant
celebration.
49

The Round Tower is the
visual centerpiece of Windsor
Castle’s stunning exterior.
Visiting Windsor
Drawing about 1.5 million visitors
each year, Windsor Castle is only
23 miles outside downtown London
and a surprisingly quick trip by train.
I opted to leave from Paddington
Station (and yes, there is a Paddington
Bear statue there), which would
require one change of trains in a
small town called Slough (rhymes
with “cow”). Any apprehension I had
about making this change of trains
was squashed as soon as I realized that
most of us on the train were headed to
the same place – the Castle. Just step
off the train, and then, minutes later,
onto another one. And for less than
$18, booked via Trainline.com, it was
a genuine bargain to do my own trip
to Windsor.
Windsor Castle is open five days
a week; closed Tuesdays and
Wednesdays, so be sure to plan
accordingly. I’d been in London less
than a day on my late winter getaway
when I headed out on a bright
Monday morning for Windsor – but
this side trip was so easy, and I never
felt overwhelmed.
Interestingly, my late winter
getaway to London was blessed
with spectacularly sunny, springlike
weather. I was caught off guard
by that, and by the fact that both
London and Windsor were swarming
with British and European tourists. I
quickly learned that it was the school
mid-terms – meaning, everyone it
seemed, had the week off. Fortunately,
I had booked my ticket for Windsor
in advance; I’m sure, however, I would
have still gotten in but it may have just
been a bit of a longer wait. (You can,
I should note, save a couple of dollars
with an advance booking; adult tickets
are £28 (about $33); there are several
other pricing categories and kids
under five are free). The admission
price includes a self-guided audio tour
that takes visitors around both the
interior and exterior of the castle and
can take several hours, depending on
your interests.
The largest and oldest occupied castle
in the world, Windsor Castle was
founded by William the Conqueror
in the 11th Century and has been
the home of 40 British monarchs
(including King Charles, who is
expected to stay there one or two
days each month). The entire castle
complex – referred to as the Lower
Ward, Middle Ward, and Upper Ward
– covers a sprawling 13 acres of land,
and dominates the charming town of
Windsor.
The 1992 Fire
Walking around both the exterior
and interior of Windsor Castle, it’s
hard to believe that in November
1992, a devastating fire – started
by a high-watt lightbulb touching
fabric in Queen Victoria’s private
chapel -- quickly engulfed the palace,
destroying 115 rooms, including
nine staterooms. This devastating
event was one of several reasons the
late Queen famously called 1992
her “Annus horribilis” (“horrible
year). The long process of repair
and restoration – which took a full
five years -- began almost immediately.
The areas that were most badly
damaged, such as St. George’s Hall,
were redesigned in a modern Gothic
style. The cost, £37 million (almost $40
million today in U.S. dollars), was mostly
made up of proceeds from admission to
the Castle, and to Buckingham Palace,
which was opened to the public for the
first time in 1993.
The Queen’s Home
Before making it her full-time residence
in 2020 – just at the start of the
pandemic -- the late Queen Elizabeth
II spent weekends -- as well as a month
over the Easter holiday and a week in
June -- at Windsor Castle. While many
monarchs have made their mark on
the property, King George IV (1762-
1830), added many of the iconic Gothic
features, along with the grand Waterloo
Chamber. After the 1992 fire, many
parts of the castle were restored to how
George IV had left them, that particular
monarch having created some of the
most richly decorated interiors and a
remodeled exterior after ascending the
throne in 1820.
What surprised me the most, was the
sheer scope of Windsor Castle. It seemed
like the entire town of Windsor is built
around this dramatic almost storybooklike
castle.
There’s a lot to see here, so take your
time. Interestingly, no interior photos
are allowed – something that makes
for a “be-here-now” experience as you
explore and learn about its rich history.
Divided into rooms and apartments,
each area of the castle’s interior has a
theme, or a function – or is known for
the people who lived here. The “big
ticket” items are the state apartments,
the semi-state rooms (the apartments
of George IV), and St. George’s Chapel.
Another popular stop is Queen Mary’s
Doll’s House, built between 1921-1924,
for Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth II’s
paternal grandmother. One of the largest
dollhouses in the world, it contains
about 1,000 miniature works of art.
St. George’s Chapel
My main interest was to see St. George’s Chapel,
the home of many royal weddings – including
those of Harry and Meghan five years ago, and
Prince Edward and Sophie Rhys-Jones in 1999
-- and where the Queen was recently laid to rest
with her family. Founded in the 14th century
by King Edward III and extensively enlarged in
the 15th century, this Gothic chapel is located
in the castle’s Lower Ward, and well-marked by
directional signs. As part of the included audio
tour, visitors can slowly make their way through
the chapel, learning of its incredibly complex
history as they go. Approaching the Queen’s
final resting place, the line of visitors slowed
down considerably. Everyone took their time to
pay their respects to the UK’s longest-reigning
monarch.
There’s no time frame for visiting Windsor; you
could spend the entire day within the castle
grounds if you choose. It’s that sense of leisurely
exploration that makes the visit so special.
Windsor – both the castle and the town – are
filled with lovely shops and restaurants; there are
many choices if you’re in need of a bite to eat.
Within the Castle grounds, there’s the Undercroft
Café, below St. George’s Cathedral. For a delicious
and inexpensive afternoon tea, check out Clarence
Brasserie & Tea Room, only a two-minute walk
from the Castle. For only £8.65 (about $10.40),
you can enjoy traditional afternoon tea (a
scone, strawberry jam with clotted cream, and
tea or coffee). There’s the “Duchess of Bedford
Afternoon Tea,” which also includes a cucumber
sandwich, and an egg sandwich (£12.95; about
$15.60). For a few additional pounds, you can also
get a version with prosecco. Traditional meals
are available as well, but I was all in for the tea
experience.
For any Anglophile, a fan of “The Crown,” or
anyone even remotely interested in the Royal
Family, a side trip to Windsor from London is
decidedly easy – and equally fascinating.
For more information about visiting Windsor
Castle, go to: www.rct.uk. For information about
the town of Windsor, visit www.windsor.gov.uk
St. George’s Chapel is where Queen Elizabeth II was laid to rest
-- and where 10 other sovereigns are entombed, including Henry
VIII. The Chapel was finished in 1528, during Henry’s reign.
Queen Elizabeth I (1158 - 1603), the last Tudor monarch, spent
time at Windsor Castle for many years -- and is commemorated
at this doorway, with a sign noting the year of 1583.
The charming town of Windsor is known not only for its
famous castle, but also for its many shops and restaurants,
including this area, which leads to the train station.
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51

BRANSON
HAS IT ALL !
Chateau on the Lake,
Credit: Chateau on the
Lake Resort staff
Dick’s 5 & 10- The fun five and dime
store has been open since 1961.
Branson mural – This is one of the fun murals
downtown that provide a perfect photo op.
owntown Branson is filled with fun stops for
browsing and fascinating Branson history
at the Branson Centennial Museum. There I
learned that the city was incorporated in 1912.
After a dam was constructed creating Table
Rock Lake, tourists flocked to the area and the
dam allowed electricity to bring entertainment
to town. The Mabe brothers put together a
variety act and in 1969, the Baldknobbers built a theater
bringing the first of many.
I shopped in several flea market shops, in historic downtown,
and enjoyed perusing the iconic Dick’s 5 & 10 that has been
open since 1961, as well as Peter Egler Designs where artists’
creations are on display. Downtown murals also add a splash
of color and atmosphere.
On a previous visit, I stopped at the Branson Auto and Farm
Museum where I saw cars and farm equipment galore! This
time we visited the amazing Celebrity Car Museum and saw
vehicles from movies past like the Ghostbuster mobile, the
car from Miami Vice, the Flintstones car, and the vehicle
from the movie Twister to name a few. What fun.
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CINDY LADAGE
Branson is a patriotic and faith-filled town with
shopping, entertainment, and outdoor beauty making
this a visit that has it all! The first week in April I had
the chance to visit this wonderful place as the guest
of Sara Broers of Travel with Sara.
52
A stay at the beautiful Chateau on the Lake offered
a lovely view, and perfect amenities. With over 300
rooms available, the hotel staff greeted us while
entering and exiting, providing a welcome feeling
not often found.
Ghost Buster- One of the movie cars
at the Celebrity Car Museum.
Statue – This is one of the beautiful
statues at the Peter Engel Design shop.
53

Flower Dancers - My favorite
sight was the Living Garden
with moving plants! Girls
dressed in flower costumes
swirled throughout the
garden filling it with color.
Ripley’s Mobile Military Marvels - Ripley’s
Mobile Military Marvels display is a “tribute to
all who serve in the fight for freedom…”
Big pancake-I could only eat
a small section of this BIG
pancake at Billy Gail’s!
Dogwood Canyon – This view of the waterfall
at Dogwood Canyon is just one of the stunning
sights we saw on our tram tour.
Top of the Rock – This amazing view was spotted from Arnie’s Barn
restaurant at Top of the Rock Branson.
hen it comes to
entertainment,
Branson can’t be
beaten. During
our visit, we
saw the Dolly
Stampede where
entertainers played
out stories on
horseback while we dined on great
food. Legends in Concert provided
star coverage of Elvis, Michael Jackson,
Pat Benatar, and more! Then we
also saw the amazing first family of
Branson the Presleys in the Presley
Jubilee, which offers a combination of
country and gospel. Then there was
my favorite, The Haygoods a family
comprised of five brothers and one
sister that light up the stage. They have
been performing together for the last
31 years since they were kids.
Every performance we attended took a
moment to honor our nation’s Veterans
and all had a patriotic section in the
show. One of my favorite patriotic
stops in Branson was Ripley’s Mobile
Military Marvels. This free display is
a “tribute to all who serve in the fight
for freedom by presenting mobile
equipment that has helped these brave
men and women in this all-important
mission.”
While we didn’t have time to visit the
Branson Veteran’s Museum, we did
stop to see the “Storming the Beach”
sculpture by Fred J. Hoppe. This
stunning sculpture portrays 50 soldiers
of actual WWII infantrymen from all
fifty states. The statue is supposed to
be the largest life-size bronze military
sculpture in the world. It is 70 feet long
and weighs over 15 tons.
Dining options are many. We ate
breakfast at the famous Billy Gail’s, and
it didn’t disappoint. I had a HUGE
pancake. I could only eat a small
portion of this delectable meal! The
folksy décor only added to the visit.
Another fun dining experience was on
our last morning at Clockers Café. We
had the pleasure of meeting up with
friend and fellow NATJA member
Lynn Berry, who is the Director of
Communications at the Branson Visitor
Bureau. Besides the great food selection,
the clock displays add interest to the
café, which is in the historic downtown!
The scenery in Branson and the
surrounding countryside are postcard
lovely. We stopped in at Dogwood
Canyon Nature Park, which covers
10,000 acres of the pristine Ozark
Mountain landscape. The property
was purchased by Johnny Morris,
the CEO and founder of Bass Pro
shops in 1990. Today it is run by
the Dogwood Canyon Foundation, a
non-profit organization that protects
plant life and the natural environment.
During our visit, we took a tram tour
which is open year-round. The tour
takes visitors from Missouri, across
the Arkansas border where the tour
may mingle like ours did with herds
of American bison, elk, and Texas
longhorn. We even saw a bald eagle
during our visit.
Hearing about the beauty of Top
of The Rock located just outside of
Branson, we decided to stop. You pay
an admission fee to enter the area, then
park, and board a shuttle! There are
lots of things to do on Top of the Rock,
we chose dining at Arnie’s Barn, which
offered another astounding view and
great lunch!
ther activities at Top of
the Rock are outlined on
the website, “Located on
a bluff overlooking the
Ozark Mountains and
Table Rock Lake, Top
of the Rock preserves
Missouri’s rich history and
intrinsic beauty. Top of the
Rock features world-class activities
and attractions, including Top of the
Rock Golf Course, Top of the Rock
Lost Canyon Cave and Nature Trail,
and the Ancient Ozarks Natural
History Museum.”
Branson is the king of rides! We
tried the fun Shepherd’s Adventure
Park’s Copperhead Mountain Coaster.
They advertise “Our downhill ride is
over 3,350ft long! This is the longest
downhill ride in Branson. The uphill
is 1,450 ft making the total coaster
nearly a mile long!”
Thankfully there are brakes, so this
scaredy cat could EASE down the
mountain. Probably my favorite
“ride” was the Pink Jeep Tour. The
tour is relatively new to the area, but
our experienced guide Billy took us to
see beautiful views and on a fun offroad
adventure! The tour lasted two hours
and provided a chance to view Branson’s
natural and man-made wonders.
Rides, shows, art, and food are available
at the award-winning Silver Dollar City
which was just named the Best Theme
Park in the United States by USA Today’s
10 Best Reader's Choice Awards. Our
visit to the theme park was short and
focused on artisans. My favorite sight was
the Living Garden with moving plants!
Girls dressed in flower costumes swirled
throughout the garden filling it with
color.
More entertainment and fine dining can
be found on The Showboat Branson Belle,
which offers a cruise, dinner, and meal all
for one price. It was relaxing to glide over
the water, sit back, and be entertained!
Water was on our minds when we made
our last stop of the trip to the Aquarium
at the Boardwalk. Joining in with the
kids, we were thrilled by the fish, sharks,
stingrays, seahorses, and so much more.
What a fun way to end our trip to this
fun-filled, spiritual city that restores your
faith in entertainment for all ages!
Bill and Pink Jeep Tour – Our
guide Bill took us on a great ride!
Clocker’s Café- This fun clock
themed café located in Branson’s
historic downtown offers great food.
54
55

Reno Gateway
Horseback riding in Truckee
Hike along the Miner's Trail
Outdoor Adventure, Art, Craft Cuisine, and Wellness
in:
RENO
56
Reno, Nevada, known for its casinos,
gambling, and nightlife, is taking on a
new role. “The Biggest Little City in the
World” is attracting younger generations
and families who are looking for fun
outdoor adventures – many of which
can be found within the city limits
and in nearby Lake Tahoe. Ditch the
slot machines for kayaking through
Story and Photos by Sharael Kolberg
downtown Reno on the Truckee River,
rock climbing up the side of a building,
horseback riding in the Tahoe National
Forest, or hiking to the University
of Nevada's "N" on the Miners Trail.
Situated among the Sierra Nevada
mountain range and sprawling desert
landscapes, Reno is a dynamic, fourseason
resort destination.
Reno not only makes a great base
camp for experiencing the outdoors,
but also for exploring street art, tasting
craft beers, and relaxing at a spa. The
rise of tech giants, like Tesla, Google,
and Blockchains, moving in has
ushered in new energy, spurring the
growth of its unique arts, culture, and
culinary scenes.
Whitney Peak Hotel's Climbing Wall
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Adventure seekers can satiate
their need for outdoor exploration
downtown, in the desert, or
downslope. Beginning with
downtown’s Riverwalk District, where
the Truckee River winds its way from
Lake Tahoe, visitors can enjoy a
multitude of outdoor activities like
fishing, kayaking, and rafting. I
tried kayaking in a single-person
kayak for the first time and it was an
exhilarating experience that combined
views of nature and downtown
skyscrapers.
Just 30 minutes southwest lies Lake
Tahoe – the largest alpine lake in the
U.S. Surrounded by acres of breathtaking
Sierra Nevada wilderness, North
Lake Tahoe is a spectacular outdoor
destination primed for hiking, biking,
and getting out on the water for boating
and stand-up paddleboarding. I love
riding the bike path that borders the
Truckee River. It is scenic and serene, and
one time I actually saw a bear swimming
across the river.
From Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe and Diamond
Peak, located just 30 minutes outside of
the city, to Palisades Tahoe and Northstar,
the Tahoe region boasts the highest
Kayaking on the Truckee River
concentration of world-class ski
resorts in North America. Or, head
north of Reno to Pyramid Lake, one of
the top destinations for fishing.
If you'd rather climb, head to
the Whitney Peak Hotel, which is home
to Basecamp – a 7,000-square-foot
climbing gym with indoor bouldering,
a steam room and sauna, a fitness
center, and the Guinness Book of
World Records “tallest artificial
climbing wall,” on the outside of the
hotel, that measures 169 feet. It's a
doozy. I was only able to get a few feet
high before my arms gave out.
57

ARTS AND CULTURE
FOOD AND SPIRITS
58
Reno is the gateway to Burning Man,
driving the region’s booming arts and
culture scene. The Nevada Museum of
Art, the only accredited art museum
in the state of Nevada, has curated
some of the country’s most talked
about exhibits, including Seven
Magic Mountains, an art installation
of colorful boulder totems, set in the
Nevada desert, outside of Las Vegas.
The museum, in downtown Reno,
has colorful, creative, and inspiring
exhibits, including Rachel Hayes',
"Someday When We're Dreaming."
Reno’s art movement has also hit
the streets, with a vibrant collective of
over 100+ murals and art installations
throughout the city, recognized
among the largest concentration in
the country. Explore Reno’s impressive
street art and sculptures, from the
nearby Burning Man festival, with a
guided tour from Art Spot. Tour and
learn about The Generator, a creative
community with resources for local
artists to build the projects of their
dreams. Reno also strives to preserve
and celebrate the Native American,
Basque, and Western cultures
influenced throughout the destination.
Fresh pasta at La Strada
Rachel Hayes
"Someday When We're Dreaming"
at the Nevada Museum of Art
Public art in downtown Reno
Liberty Food and Wine
Exchange Charcuterie
Reno celebrates food and spirits,
offering a unique dining scene
with a range of locally-owned
establishments, from highly
regarded restaurants like Atlantis
Steakhouse at the Atlantis Casino
Resort Spa and La Strada at the
Eldorado Resort Casino (the
best homemade pasts), to casual
farm-to-table spots like Old
Granite Street Eatery and Liberty
Food & Wine Exchange.
Get drinks and play yard games
at the outdoor beer garden, The
Eddy. The destination is home
to a booming craft brew
industry, including Great
Basin Brewing Co., the oldest
brewery in Nevada, and The
Depot, the state’s first combined
brewery and distillery, which
is housed in a historic railway
headquarters. Reno's craft
cocktail scene is also on the rise,
with old faithfuls, like Death &
Taxes, creating custom liqueurs
for their bespoke drink menu
in a swanky vibe (great nonalcoholic
cocktails too), and
new favorites, like Rum Sugar
Lime, where bartenders create
original concoctions on the spot.
The area’s passion for food is
obvious from its festival schedule,
with monthly pub crawls and
wine walks through the Reno
Riverwalk District, “Food Truck
Fridays,” the popular “Best
in the West Nugget Rib Cookoff,”
and Lake Tahoe Autumn
Food and Wine Festival, the
area’s most prestigious food,
wine, spirit, and brew festival.
Or taste delicious delicacies
throughout the destination’s top
dining establishments with a tour
from Reno Food Walks.
Cafe Whitney Granola
and Berry Hotcakes
ELEVATED WELLNESS
The Eddy Collabortive
Community Space
Many hotels and resorts in Reno have spa facilities that offer relaxing
treatments – perfect after a day of outdoor adventure. The Silver Legacy
Resort Casino, part of the three-property mega-resort THE ROW,
features a 21,000-square-foot spa with a pink Himalayan salt room.
The Grand Sierra Resort has a full-service spa and salon that offers
treatments such as the Sports Massage, the Deep Tissue Massage, or
The Grand Moroccan Oil Scalp Massage.
At the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort, Spa & Casino’s Stillwater
Spa, guests can experience wellness through the power of nature,
utilizing the detoxifying properties of Lake Tahoe’s natural resources,
while enjoying an atmosphere of luxurious mountain elegance. The
Refuge Spa at the Renaissance Reno Downtown Hotel & Spa features the
Rise Bar with hand-crafted cocktails and health elixirs and the Float
Pod isolation experience.
The vintage motel turned design hotel Kramer’s Midtown offers
partnerships with Sports West Athletic Club that is home to Spa of the
West and The Studio Reno with spiritual healing and massage.
The Atlantis Casino Resort Spa has amenities that include an
Experiential Shower, Brine Inhalation-Light Therapy Lounge,
Laconium Relaxation Lounge, Rasul Ceremonial Chambers, Hammam
Experience, and Weightless Flotation Soft-Pack-System®. The threestory,
33,000-square-foot Spa Toscana at Peppermill Resort Casino has
hot and cold plunge pools, cascading deluge showers, eucalyptus steam
and cedar wood saunas, SoSound acoustic resonance therapy, and
Himalayan Retreat features soothing salt wall.
If you're looking for a getaway that combines scenic outdoor adventure,
wellness opportunities, gastronomic experiences, and various forms of
art (as well as gambling), Reno should be at the top of your list.
Hiking the University of Nevada's "N"
Relaxation lounge at Silver Legacy Spa
Salt Room at Silver Legacy Spa
Quiet space to unwind at Silver Legacy Spa
59

Varanasi cityscape on the west bank of the Ganges River.
he late afternoon sun cast shadows on
Varanasi’s faded buildings. My college-aged
son and I approached the Manikarnika Ghat,
a holy cremation ground with bleacher-like
steps leading to the west bank of the Ganges
River. He stopped, but I walked ahead.
“How would you like it if a stranger…” His
voice trailed off.
“They don’t seem to mind,” I replied.
“Don’t take pictures,” he called to me.
It sounded strange, him telling me what not to do.
I moved closer.
I felt the heat and smelled the smoke from the mango wood
burning. A small group of men stood around a body wrapped
in an orange shroud on the riverbank. The women moved away
and would not return. The wrapped body was submerged in the
river and then put on the bank to dry. It would be hours before
the body was placed in the funeral pyre and hours after that
before it turned to ashes. The men waited.
People gathered at the ghats along the Ganges
River in Varanasi.
Visiting Varanasi
Sunrise blessings ceremony at the Ganges.
Varanasi is an ancient city in India’s northern state of Uttar
Pradesh. It’s where the bereaved and devoted hope for eternal
blessings at the Ganges River, regarded by Hindus as the
embodiment of the goddess, Ganga. She holds the powers of the
three most revered Hindu deities – Brahma (creator), Vishnu
(preserver), and Shiva (destroyer, purifier). To drink or bathe in
her water is to purify. To die and have your ashes scattered here
ends the cycle of reincarnation, assuring the deceased’s entry to
moksha (unlimited being).
Hundreds of people are publicly cremated in Varanasi daily.
Funeral pyres burn 24 hours a day, every day. In his book,
Sorcerer’s Apprentice, Tahir Shah writes: “Enlightenment, and
the death which comes before it, is the primary business of
Varanasi.”
Men seated in a devoted posture on the
bank of the Ganges River in Varanasi.
Not far from the funeral pyres, people were bathing and
washing laundry in the river. Male bathers were in their
skivvies. Women remained fully dressed. The Ganges is known
to be one of the dirtiest waterways in the world but that didn’t
seem to matter.
60
Story and Photos
by Mary Klest
Beyond Varanasi’s fire and water façade are lively markets,
temples, palaces, and restaurants. When we mounted a bicycle
rickshaw with a seat the size of a skateboard, I knew our visit
to Varanasi would be a fond memory between my son and I.
My stiff posture on the seat signaled to him a nervous reaction.
“Relax, mom,” he said. From the rickshaw we watched people
balance large baskets of vegetables on their heads in the
crowded streets. Packs of candy dangled from cramped stalls.
The docile eyes of stray cows, goats, and dogs met ours.
A mix of ancient and contemporary architecture
along the riverfront city of Varanasi.
61

he heavy inland air mixed with dust
and smoke made it hard to breathe
until we stepped inside the silk shops at
Godalia Square. The proprietor at Ganga
Handloom welcomed us with a warm
smile and outstretched hand. “Chai,
water, tea?” he asked. Because it would
be bottled, we requested water. He was
wearing a gray shirt and gray pants.
Behind his drab self was a beautiful turquoise and purple
silk blanket hanging from a rod. On the shelves were
scarves, handloom saris, and bolts of silk in a menagerie
of colors - red, tangerine, sea green, and gold. I wondered
what India would be without these bright silks splashing
color against the somewhat dreary towns and dusty roads.
“Let me show you the only way to tell real silk from
synthetic,” the proprietor said. He pulled a cigarette lighter
from his pocket. He positioned the small flame under loose
threads on a patch of silk fabric and burned it.
“See? It burns. It smells like human hair. Smell it.”
We did.
“That’s the way you tell if it’s real silk,” he said.
We decided to purchase two cashmere scarves we could use
as face masks to help protect our lungs from the air.
We were staying at the Haifa Hotel which is within walking
distance of many places of interest including the Harmony
Book Shop and the Sparsa Spa which are lovely spots to
decompress and relax.
The next morning before sunrise we joined a morning
prayer service with others gathered at the Assi Ghat plaza.
From there we boarded a wooden boat to get a riverside
view of the ancient buildings. In most cities during the early
morning hours, visitors watch food service trucks making
deliveries to restaurants. In Varanasi, we saw men in boats
piling wood for the day’s cremations.
When we returned to the plaza, we joined an outdoor yoga
session. Our arms stretched up to the hazy sky in unison
with others. When directed by the Yogi, we let out a primal
scream, followed by a hearty laugh.
n the street, a knot of vehicles tightened
to a halt. Horns were honking but
none of the Indian people stilled by the
congestion appeared angry or frustrated.
No one was yelling or pumping their
fists. The driver of a tuk-tuk shrugged
his shoulders and smiled. A shop owner
seeing the stopped traffic stepped in. He
waved a few motorcyclists forward. A flat
wooden cart holding a disabled man with floppy
limbs nudged forward. The shop owner continued
waving until the knot loosened and the vehicles
started to move. A tour guide nearby explained
the Indian temperament to me this way: “The
Hindi person is always aware of Karma. Actions
now affect not only this life but also one’s life in
the hereafter, for generations. Even kings and
Brahmans are subject to the law of Karma. If they
do bad things they could return as shudra,” a caste
formerly known as untouchables.
As we started walking, I bumped into a tourist
who had stopped on the street to clean his shoes.
“Why bring expensive shoes to India?” the guide
said. “There is cow dung everywhere. When the
doctor says you need to go on holiday, he is not
recommending a visit to India. The best approach
to India is to not have any expectations.”
The daily Aarti prayer ceremony includes
songs, incense, horns and flaming torches.
Men delivering wood for daily cremations.
Wood is delivered by boat for daily
cremations along the Ganges River.
The next evening my son and I attended the Ganga
Aarti prayer service at Dashashwamedh Ghat. We
arrived early by boat and watched other boats pack
into the waterfront. Young boys skipped across the
boats selling candles and brass-plated medallions.
Women in saris shared smiles with us across the
boat’s bow. Yellow and orange flags waved from the
two waterfront stages. Umbrella-shaped lights in
red, white, green, yellow, and purple hovered the
stages. I expected chants but the Brahman sang
sweet, melodic songs. Night surrounded us. The
wind gently rocked the boats. The moon was full.
I remembered singing sweet songs to my baby son
when love could be off-key.
On the stages, men danced, lit fires, burned
incense, sounded horns, rang bells, and sent
blessings. It was prayer as a performance. The
multi-sensory experience scrambled my thoughts
about religions and gods. Is it theatrics? A story? It
was a moment when India filled me, changed me
into someone I was not yet familiar with.
Boats crowd the Ganges riverfront at the
Dashashwamedh Ghat for the evening Aarti prayer ceremony.
Smoke clouded the stages making the buildings look like ghosts
in the night. The other boats soon disappeared but we lingered on
the river trying to light candles against the wind. It’s traditional to
make a wish or ask for a blessing from the goddess Ganga while
placing the candle in the water. We got our candles lit and without
expectation tenderly dropped them onto the goddess’s back.
We left Varanasi before sunrise and the only sound we heard on the
street was the clopping of cow hooves on the cobblestone.
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63

Getaway to Your CNY Summer.
|
Your guide to all things Oneida County.
64
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