Jeweller - June 2023

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY JUNE 2023
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JUNE 2023
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
13 Editorial
14 Upfront
16 News
24
27
48
50
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: June 2013
LEARN ABOUT GEMS
Tools of the Trade: Part IV
MY BENCH
David Stephenson
SOAPBOX
Madeline Duffy
Features
29 TREND FEATURE
A chain of influence
4Jewellery worn around the neckline plays a
powerful psychological role in communication.
Jeweller examines the latest trends and questions
what level of influence celebrities have on sales.
32 SHOWCASE: CHAINS ON TREND
29
32
35
A CHAIN OF INFLUENCE
Have celebrities abandoned eye-catching necklines?
PRODUCT CATALOGUE
The latest bold chains and necklaces to hit the streets
CAD/CAM AND 3D PRINTING
Forward-thinking jewellers discuss the future of the trade
Better Your Business
42
44
45
46
47
BUSINESS STRATEGY
Stop selling and start nurturing. SHEP HYKEN offers helpful insights.
SELLING
DAVID BROWN believes that offering your customers certainty is vital to success.
MANAGEMENT
Can you measure potential? DALE FURTWENGLER offers a new approach.
MARKETING & PR
SIMON DELL explains the importance of an emerging consumer demographic.
LOGGED ON
SHANE O'NEILL examines three key areas where many businesses experience failure.
35 CAD/CAM AND 3D PRINTING
The future is here
4The game has changed due to emerging
technologies. SAMUEL ORD speaks with jewellers
who are proud to have embraced CAD/CAM and
3D printing services and reflects on the way these
tools have changed the jewellery trade.
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Editor’s Desk
Gratitude is an attitude – so don’t forget to say thanks
It’s easy to feel that the world is slipping out of control these days. Despite the uncertainties ahead,
ANGELA HAN offers a reminder of the importance of giving thanks.
No matter what channel you turn on
these days, it seems like every news
station appears to be repeating words
such as ‘recession’ while increasing
concerns of inflation and cost-of-living
pressures are bemoaned.
This pessimistic commentary doesn’t
arise without good cause and it’s not just
the talking heads who are concerned.
Anyone paying close attention to the
current state of affairs is asking the
same question: “How does this really
affect me?”
While it’s tempting to rely on the wisdom
of market experts when it comes to
forecasting, what does this analysis really
spell out for the jewellery industry?
Turning the attention to our turf, we
can see a few signs of an economic
downturn unfurling.
Michael Hill International CEO Daniel
Bracken has recently revealed that
third-party transactional data for the total
Australian retail jewellery segment has
shown a double-digit decline in sales for
the first four months of the second half.
Australian Retailers Association CEO
Paul Zahra recently described the impact
of a ‘cost-of-living crisis’ and says that
retailers can expect sales to suffer, while
the latest analysis from Retail Edge has
identified a second consecutive month of
softening sales, especially when compared
against the data of the past two years.
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group and
LVMH shares have taken a recent dip,
while stocks for Signet Jewelers and
Michael Hill have been on a slow decline
since early 2023 when recession bells first
started to ring.
So, how does this really affect the trade
and more importantly, how do you handle
the road ahead as a business-owner?
Perhaps the answer is two-fold: a) employ
caution, not panic, in your decisionmaking
– Take time to seek professional
advice and ask questions – many others
are in the same position; and b) ensure
the time to reflect on the things for which
you are grateful – you will be surprised
with the sense of control that comes with
thankfulness in hardship.
The silver lining
You’ve been told that there’s a bad storm
coming – so now you’ve got the time to
plan for it! Chances are that you’re likely
more prepared than you think!
In times like these, it’s important to
prepare for what’s to come, and what is
a better method than networking with
others at major trade events?
Nationwide Jewellers’ annual Timeout
Conference has come and gone for
another year and reports from the
event – whether it be suppliers, buyers,
or organisers – were glowing.
Catching up with fellow jewellers,
discovering new products, and connecting
with the industry’s most knowledgeable
voices is time well spent, and the success
of the Nationwide event has only deepened
the excitement for upcoming trade events.
Expertise Events managing director Gary
Fitz-Roy recently confirmed the need to
expand the floor area to accommodate
increasing demand and suggested that
the event will have more exhibitors than
any other Sydney Fair of the past decade.
The excitement increased further when it
was announced that Karin Adcock, former
CEO of Pandora Australia, plans to attend.
In more local developments, planning for
the Australian Opal Exhibition (2-3 August)
continues unabated despite recent
administrative issues for miners.
Australian opals and opal jewellery have
enjoyed a moment in the sun with a
resurging popularity in Asia, so this is
set to be a special boutique exhibition.
The industry is charging into an actionpacked
few months, both within Australia
and abroad, and if you’re in the mood for
travel, consider what's on offer overseas.
While you can't control the storm, you
can steer your ship – despite the dip in
consumer confidence and inflation, these
industry events act as a lighthouse in the
storm, where you can find your bearing
and direction – add them to your calendar.
Opportunities abound
Never underestimate the powers of
gratitude. It is one of the most important
tools in the arsenal of any business owner,
Never forget
the power of
gratitude.
It's one of the
most powerful
tools in the
arsenal of any
business owner.
and can transform your work environment
and also your bottom line.
Indeed, the University of California Berkley
and Havard have both published studies
detailing the ways in which consistently
‘giving thanks’ can even help improve an
individual’s mental health.
Did you want to cultivate a culture of
sincerity and gratitude? Nothing beats
leading by example.
Every day we encounter multiple chances
to display our appreciation. For example,
it might be when a customer finalises an
order, when they receive an invoice, or even
in a follow-up email or phone call – ensure
your 'Thank you' is sincere, and not just an
after thought! After all, their patronage is
what is helping to keep your doors open!
The exact same rules apply when dealing
with staff, suppliers, colleagues, and even
other surrounding businesses.
Remain ever vigilante and alert for
opportunities to express your gratitude to
those who contribute to your business's
success - especially in tougher times.
Connections forged in hard times are
often ones that last.
Angela Han
Publisher
Add these events to your calendar
» JEWELLERY & GEM ASIA HONG KONG
22-25 June | Hong Kong, China
» AUSTRALIAN OPAL EXHIBITION
2-3 August | Southport, Australia
» INDIA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
3-8 August | Mumbai, India
» INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY FAIR
19-21 August | Sydney, Australia
» JEWELLERY & GEM WORLD HONG KONG
18-24 September | Hong Kong, China
» BANGKOK GEMS & JEWELLERY FAIR
6-10 September | Bangkok, Thailand
» ISTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW
5-8 October | Istanbul, Turkey
June 2022 | 13

Upfront
Rewind: Best Bench Tip
MARCH 2015
“Be original in
everything you
do, from design
to presentation.
Inspiration is just the
beginning – don’t let
it stop there!”
VARTAN BAKALIAN
BB DESIGNER JEWELLERS
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
Wallis Simpson’s Cartier
Panther Bracelet
4A bracelet owned by US
socialite Wallis Simpson,
whose love affair with Edward
VIII led to his abdication, has
increased in popularity over the years and is today one of the most iconic
bracelets in the world.
The Cartier bracelet was made in Paris in 1952 and is 195mm long.
The Duke and Duchess of Windsor commissioned many pieces from
designer Jeanne Toussaint, who created the panther bracelet as well
as a flamingo brooch.
In 2010, the Cartier-designed onyx and diamond panther bracelet
reached £4.52 million ($AU8.47 million) at auction – the highest price any
bracelet had ever been sold for at auction. At the time, it was also the
most expensive Cartier item to be sold at any auction.
Maximum store aesthetics?
4The completion of the refurbishment of
Tiffany & Co’s flagship store on the corner
of Fifth Avenue and East 57th Street has
generated significant media attention.
One of the most eye-catching additions
to the recently reopened store is found
on the ground floor - new ‘video walls’
projecting imagery of Central Park and
the Manhattan skyline. The walls are
high-tech mirrors that have been designed
to look like arched windows. Staff are able
to switch between New York scenes and
reflections of customers trying on jewellery.
Trend Spotting
4From birth flowers to rosettes, the
appeal of floral details is undeniable
in fashion in 2023. Big or small, bright
or subtle, there are more than a few
forward-thinking influencers adopting the
flower design. Flower motifs have been
an important part of jewellery design for
centuries; however, what makes modern
floral jewels special is the ingenuity and
complexity of the creation.
Campaign Watch
4Saint Laurent is the latest luxury
fashion brand to enter the world of
fine jewellery. The French brand has
announced the launch of Saint Laurent
Haute Joaillerie, a collection of fine
jewellery. Featuring rings, earrings,
cuffs, and necklaces crafted in yellow and
white gold and diamonds, many include
references to the brand’s motifs.
Image credit: Anabela Chan
Image credit: Saint Laurent
Stranger Things
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
Buried treasures
4A stash of cash and gold bars
was found buried in the soil behind
Wat Pa Dhammakiri temple in
Nakhon Ratchasima province in
northeast Thailand. The temple
was searched after the former
abbot and two others were arrested
under suspicion of embezzling
temple funds last week. The three
suspects are believed to have
committed financial crimes over
the past three years.
Size matters
4Lab-created diamonds larger
than 10 carats are to be auctioned
in what's been described as the
first sale of its kind. Hundreds of
diamonds will be offered for sale
in The Size Matters online event
by Virtual Diamond Boutique
(VDB), the sourcing and trading
app. Tanya Nisguretsky, CEO of
VDB said: "Laboratory-created
diamonds constitute a swiftly
expanding segment of the fine
jewellery industry, especially as
technologies improve, allowing
higher qualities of larger diamonds
to be produced and incorporated
into fine jewellery."
Glamorous funeral
4Fugitive diamond mogul Mehul
Choksi has won the first round of a
legal battle to prove he was kidnapped
from his new home on Antigua and
Barbuda in the West Indies. The
64-year-old claims Indian officials
were involved in a plot to bring him
back to his home country, where he
is due to stand trial over the alleged
$US1.8 billion ($AU2.7 billion) Punjab
National Bank fraud.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com
Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalist Samuel Ord samuel.ord@jewellermagazine.com
Production Learoy Bangis art@befindanmedia.com • Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com
Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd
strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to
the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities
arising from the published material.

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June 2023 | 15

News
Sydney jeweller alleged to
have orchestrated $2.8m heist
Michael Elias Germani, a prominent Sydney jeweller
has been arrested and accused of arranging the
armed robbery of his own jewellery store.
The 65-year-old owner of Germani Jewellery, who
has designed items for the celebrities such as
Princess Diana and Elizabeth Taylor, was arrested by
NSW Police on 8 May.
In January at a store on George Street in Sydney, men
posing as customers threatened a staff member
with a knife while demanding access to the jeweller’s
safe, according to reporting from The Guardian.
The men allegedly bound the hands and feet
with cable ties of Germani and a female staff
member and then left the store with an expensive
collection of jewellery.
In April, authorities arrested two people - Shanel
Tofaeono, 37, and Mounir Helou, 57 – in relation to
the alleged robbery.
Detective Superintendent Joe Doueihi told reporters
outside the court that the female store assistant
didn’t know the robbery was orchestrated.
"I can indicate the store owner lodged a substantial
claim for a substantial amount of jewellery and a
sizable dollar amount with his insurer," he said.
"We looked closely into the store owner and some
of his associates and we identified that he had
orchestrated this entire event."
Germani appeared in court in Downing Centre the
day after his arrest where police alleged he was
involved in “planning and coordinating the robbery
and attempted to defraud an insurance company”.
He has been charged with aggravated robbery and
depriving a person of their liberty, attempting to
dishonestly obtain a financial advantage by deception,
as well as publishing false or misleading material to
obtain property.
He has also been charged with participating in a
criminal group and contributing to criminal activity.
No application for bail was made.
De Beers delays rough sales due to weak demand
The world’s largest diamond mining company,
De Beers Group, has postponed its fifth and sixth
sales cycle auctions for the year amid concerns
about dwindling international demand.
The fifth sight is scheduled for 5-9 June and
the sixth on 10-14 July.
In a statement, the company said the interim
and main auctions will be combined into a
single event.
"After careful consideration and analysis of
the current market situation, we decided to
combine both cycle 5 and 6 interim and main
auctions,” the statement reads.
"While this was a difficult decision to make,
we believe that it is one that reflects our
sustainable and responsible approach to
rough diamond supply."
According to reporting by IDEX, declining
demand from Indian manufacturers paired with
slowing consumer demand in the US and China
prompted the decision.
Research from Tenoris reveals that in the US in
April, natural diamond jewellery sales declined
by 19.3 per cent year-on-year.
“In the sports world the term ‘career year’
is used to describe that one-time anomaly
where an athlete performs well above expected
In Germany five men have been sentenced for
their role in the 2019 robbery of the historic
Green Vault in Dresden.
The defendants, all members of the ‘Remmo
crime family’ have been on trial since January
facing charges ranging from aggravated gang
theft and arson.
Five of the accused were handed sentences
levels. April 2022 was the end of the [diamond]
industry’s career year,” writes Edahn Golan.
“Prices of natural diamonds rose overall in
April. And yet, this did not offer the kind of relief
diamond traders or retailers were seeking in the
last few months.”
He added: “The news that requires attention is
that the number of diamonds sold and the total
value of sales have completed a year of yearover-year
declines.
"Retailer gross margins, which climbed
through most of 2022, have declined every
month in 2023.”
De Beers’ most recent sales cycle concluded
on 5 May, achieving sales of $US480 million
($AU722.6 million).
More than $US540 million ($AU805 million)
in sales were completed in the third cycle in
early April, with CEO Al Cook noting many
encouraging trends at the time.
While the decision to postpone the upcoming
auctions may be surprising, it’s not
unprecedented.
In 2020 De Beers cancelled planned rough
sales in March due to the impact of the
COVID-19 pandemic.
Sentences handed down for Green Vault heist
of between four years and four months and
six years and two months. A sixth member
was acquitted.
The value of the items stolen has been revised
to €113 million ($AU178 million), including the
49-carat Dresden White Diamond, among other
diamonds, pearls, and rubies.
“The stolen Dresden collection was assembled
in the 18th century by Augustus the Strong,
Elector of Saxony and later King of Poland, who
commissioned ever more brilliant jewellery as
part of his rivalry with France's King Louis XIV,”
reported Reuters.
“The treasures survived Allied bombing raids
in World War II, only to be carted off as war
booty by the Soviet Union. They were returned
to Dresden, the historic capital of the state of
Saxony, in 1958.”
In December authorities recovered of a
‘considerable portion’ of the items stolen;
however, many important pieces remain missing.
Investigators have previously stated that they
believe a further 40 people may have played a
role in the crime.
16 | June 2023

News
Second collapse in Everledger saga; CEO publicly denies ‘cash-burning’ practices
and education matters as well as the company’s
business model.
In an article titled ‘Let’s talk about lab-grown’,
published on industry website Jewellery World,
Kemp writes: “The diamond industry is also working
to educate consumers about the importance of
sustainability.”
Kemp’s online commentary about transforming the
industry was published on 2 May despite the fact that
Everledger was placed under voluntary administration
a week earlier - on 24 April. The article remains online.
The parent company of a Brisbane-based
blockchain technology company with strong
ties to the jewellery industry has been placed in
liquidation.
Earlier this month, it was confirmed that
Everledger - led by CEO Leanne Kemp – had
entered voluntary administration after failing to
secure crucial funding.
According to a report filed with the Australian
Securities and Investments Commission (ASIC),
Everledger owes the Australian Tax Office
$AU368,000 and a further $AU9 million to
Foreverhold Limited, its parent company.
Foreverhold Limited was incorporated in
September of 2016 and is based in the UK.
Everledger was placed under voluntary
administration on 24 April by Steven Staatz
and Ashley Leslie from Vincents Chartered
Accountants.
Last week, Staatz told Jeweller the company
remains in voluntary administration and
offered further detail on the future of
Everledger’s blockchain intellectual property.
“A Deed of Company Arrangement proposal is
likely to be put forward. If creditors accept a
deed of company arrangement proposal, then
the company will avoid going into liquidation,”
he said.
However, the same cannot be said for the UK
company: “Foreverhold Limited is the parent
entity. On 11 May 2023, Mr Mark Granville Firmin
and Mr John Noon, both of Alvarez & Marsal,
were appointed liquidators of Foreverhold
Limited,” Staatz explained.
“The Joint Liquidators of Foreverhold Limited
are currently conducting a sale program with
respect to the blockchain platform and other
intellectual property rights.
It has been reported that Everledger has
outstanding employee entitlements totalling
approximately $215,000 in respect of
redundancy and payments in lieu of notice. The
company’s LinkedIn page lists personnel across
Australia, India, the US, and the UK.
“Employee entitlements are expected to be
paid in full according to current calculations,”
Staatz said.
“All wages, annual leave entitlements, and
superannuation payments have already been
paid in full.”
What went wrong?
During an eight-year run, Everledger appeared
to be in safe hands under the leadership of
Kemp, who served two terms as Queensland’s
chief entrepreneur from 2018-2020.
Kemp is a self-described 'serial entrepreneur
and innovator' and her LinkedIn profile
states that she has a “25-year track record
of delivering unparalleled value at a rapid
pace through product, innovation, and growth
strategies.”
When approached by The Australian on 24 May
regarding the collapse of Everledger, Kemp was
bizarrely dismissive of questioning.
“This is quite an old story. Why now? It’s such
old, old news,” she reportedly told senior
business reporter Glen Norris while declining
to comment on the reasons for the company’s
collapse.
The ’old story’ remark seems odd given the
company’s staff were only made redundant
around three weeks earlier on 31 March.
It’s also worth noting that the Everledger
website has not been updated with any
reference to the collapse of the business.
Uncovering the ‘truth’ with Everledger
Interestingly, Kemp has not always been so
tight-lipped about the practices of Everledger.
Indeed, she’s recently gone on the record
about the importance of various sustainability
The first creditor’s meeting was held in early May, and
it’s difficult to imagine that the business managers –
and presumably the Everledger board – would have
been unaware that the company was facing major
difficulties in securing ongoing funding to ensure the
company’s future.
Kemp’s emphasis on the importance of ‘sustainability’
is of particular interest given her attempts to deny the
possibility that under her management Everledger
burned cash.
“I would not suggest Everledger was a ‘cash burning’
start-up,” she told The Australian Financial Review on
8 May.
“This is not a company that scaled too fast or took on
venture capital and burnt it in 18 months.”
Jeweller asked the company’s administrator if Kemp’s
refutation that Everledger was a ‘cash burning startup’
had been reflected in his investigations; however,
Staatz was unable to comment.
Indeed, her apparent reluctance to discuss the
circumstances of Everledger’s collapse becomes
of greater interest in relation to another Kemp
online article.
Published on 7 March and, ironically titled, ‘Uncovering
the truth with Everledger’, Kemp wrote: “The diamond
industry has consistently been shrouded in secrecy,
with a complex supply chain that has often made it
difficult for consumers to know where their diamonds
come from and whether they were ethically sourced.”
“All of that is changing, thanks to the increasing
importance of traceability in the industry and the
innovative technology solutions being developed to
promote transparency and accountability.”
It is worth noting that the ‘Uncovering the truth with
Everledger’ article was posted online by Jewellery
World only three weeks before Everledger's Brisbane
staff lost their jobs.
Kemp’s Linkedin page still lists her as ‘Director
Everledger’ and despite continual discussion about
"transparency” her profile makes no reference to the
collapse of Everledger and/or Foreverhold.
Jeweller has contacted Kemp several times; however,
at the time of publication we had been unable to speak
to her for comment.
MORE BREAKING NEWS
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
June 2023 | 17

News
Two major sponsors secured for largest
International Jewellery Fair in a decade
The International Jewellery Fair (IJF) has
secured two key sponsorship agreements
ahead of the 19-21 August industry gathering
in Sydney.
Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt. Ltd. (SRK),
a leading supplier of natural diamonds is
a ‘diamond’ level sponsor while diamond
jewellery manufacturer AV Diamonds will
show support as a ‘platinum’ level sponsor.
DIAMOND SPONSOR
PLATINUM SPONSOR
Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz-
Roy told Jeweller he admired the respective
commitment of SRK and AV Diamonds in
supporting and elevating the jewellery trade in
Australia.
“We are excited to have SRK and AV Diamonds as our diamond and
platinum sponsors for the International Jewellery Fair,” he said.
“Their commitment to excellence in the jewellery industry makes them
a perfect fit for our event, and we look forward to working with them to
create an unforgettable experience for our attendees.”
The IJF will be hosted at the ICC in Darling Harbour over three days. More
than 140 exhibitors took part in the 2022 edition and Fitz-Roy said that this
year's event will be larger.
"We have already had to expand the floor area to accommodate increased
demand, and the 2023 IJF will have the biggest number of exhibitors in the
past decade," he said.
Expertise Events recently revealed the details of an agreement with the
Design Centre Enmore (TAFE NSW) to promote young jewellers who will
demonstrate their skills and passion for the craft, with visitors given the
opportunity to witness their creativity and innovation.
Global Jewellers Network to attend
upcoming Sydney Fair
Among the new faces at this year’s International Jewellery Fair (IJF)
in Sydney will be members of the US-based Independent Jewelers
Organisation (IJO).
The IJO is a founding member of the Global Jewellers Network, a
collaboration with Australia’s Nationwide Jewellers and The Company
of Master Jewellers (CMJ) operating in the UK and Ireland.
Coming from the US and Canada, the IJO members are scheduled to
participate in a 14-day tour of Australia and New Zealand which will
begin at the IJF in Sydney’s Darling Harbour on 19-21 August.
Led by president Jeff Roberts, the IJO will also meet with Nationwide’s
team while in Australia in order to further promote resource sharing.
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Nationwide managing director Colin Pocklington told Jeweller it will
be a tremendous opportunity for all involved. “The Global Jewellers
Network is already delivering benefits to all three groups,” he said.
“IJO’s motto is ‘strength in numbers’ and with more than 1,500 jewellery
stores represented it certainly has substantial collective industry
knowledge that will benefit all of our members for years to come”.
Once the IJF has concluded, the group will then tour the Blue
Mountains, Port Douglas, and Auckland. A meeting between Nationwide
representatives and the CMJ recently took place in England.

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June 2023 | 19

News
Improved sales following outlaw of Russian diamonds
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The CEO of Signet Jewelers, the world’s
largest retailer of diamond jewellery, has
forecasted improved sales performance
off the back of the exclusion of Russian
diamonds from the US market.
Signet owns more than 2,800 stores
globally including Kay Jewelers, Zales,
Jared, Diamonds Direct, Rocksbox,
Peoples Jewellers, Ernest Jones, and
Sterling Jewelers. The company recently
reported a fourth-quarter sales slump of
five per cent year-on-year.
Despite the decline, CEO Virginia Drosos
says the decision to boycott Russian
diamonds is expected to lead to an
improvement in jewellery sales.
"We've already been working with our
partners to create a new way of segregating
diamonds," she said.
"I believe that for the industry here, this will
ultimately become a competitive advantage
because this is just the beginning of what
I believe will be a decade-long move of
consumers wanting to understand the origin
The Richemont Group has published its latest
full-year financial report, recording a 21 per cent
increase in jewellery sales off the back of easing
pandemic restrictions in Asia.
Sales from the jewellery category reached €13.43
billion ($AU21.79 billion) for the 12 months ending
31 March.
The division’s directly operated store network, as
well as online sales, combined for 83 per cent of
sales. Operating profit increased by 23 per cent.
Based in Switzerland, Richemont owns luxury
brands such as Baume & Mercier, Buccellati,
Cartier, Montblanc, Vacheron Constantin, and Van
Cleef & Arpels.
The company’s total sales improved by 14 per
cent, with the specialist watchmakers division
improving by eight per cent.
In a statement, representatives at Richemont
attributed the increased sales to the improved
trading conditions in China, as well as positive
performances in Japan, Europe and the US.
“The group’s three jewellery maisons [brands]
achieved double-digit improvement in jewellery
and watch [sales],” the company said.
“All iconic collections outperformed. This strong
performance was also broad-based across all
of their diamonds."
The company recently set an ambitious goal
of up to $US10 billion ($AU15.1 billion) in
annual revenue within five years, primarily
through a resurgence of bridal jewellery
performance. Signet reported total sales of
$US7.8 billion ($AU11.7 billion) at the end of
fiscal year 2023.
“We’re very confident in the data that
we have that indicated in advance of it
happening that engagements would go
through a trough period. That trough
actually happened this fall,” Drosos said.
“We expect to see engagements begin to pick
up in the fourth quarter, and then very strong
growth next year and in 2025. We’ll still see
some sustained oversized increases in 2026.
Then back to normal trends in 2027."
She added: “In terms of revenue, that’s over
a half-billion dollar opportunity for us.”
According to a report from Rapaport News,
Signet brands currently hold a 30 per cent
share of the US bridal market.
Richemont reveals impressive jewellery sales,
dismisses takeover rumours concerning LVMH
jewellery maisons, price points, regions and
distribution channels.”
The statement continued: “Economic volatility and
political uncertainty look set to remain features of
the trading environment. The group will therefore
seek to maintain the necessary agility to manage
fluctuating levels of demand.”
Chairman declares rumours are unfounded
In February rumours spread in Europe that Louis
Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) was considering a
takeover of Richemont.
Richemont chairman Johann Rupert dismissed
the possibility of a sale during the results briefing
for the 2022-23 financial year.
“Rumours have been circulating since the start
of the year that LVMH, the world’s largest luxury
goods conglomerate, is lining up a take-over bid
for Richemont,” writes Rob Corder of WatchPro.
“In a conference call with journalists and analysts,
he [Rupert] was insistent that Richemont is not
for sale, and called the rumour of a sale to LVMH
‘erroneous’.”
Rupert also confirmed that discussions of a
merger with Kering had dissipated more than two
years ago.

News
Rolex launches second-hand certification program,
multiple auction records shattered in Geneva
Rolex’s rollout of its certified pre-owned program
in the US is underway, appearing in 35 Tournea
and Bucherer boutiques as of 3 May.
In December the Swiss watch manufacturer
confirmed plans to issue certificates of
authenticity to authorised dealers selling
second-hand watches.
Certification is limited to models that are at least
three-years-old to discourage the ‘flipping’ of
newer pieces at prices above retail.
“After an initial rollout of its new certified preowned
program in Switzerland, Austria, Germany,
France, Denmark, and the UK in December,
the program is open for business stateside this
month,” writes Cait Bazemore of Robb Report.
“At first glance, Rolex’s move into the pre-owned
market may come as a bit of a surprise, but it’s
actually a logical next step for the brand.
"In the past few years, Rolex boutiques around the
globe have run dry with display cases marked by
dreaded ‘for exhibition only’ signs and employees
breaking the news that a particular watch might
not be available for months or even years.”
She added: “The Crown recently gave collectors
hope that the tides
might be shifting with the announcement of plans
to build a new $US1 billion factory in Switzerland.
But until it’s up and running, certified pre-owned
Rolex watches may help fill the gap in the supply.”
Watches of Switzerland stores in the US are
expected to offer the program soon. Industry
research from Deloitte estimates that the preowned
watch market will expand to $US35 billion
($AU54.5 billion) before 2030.
Records broken in Geneva
Auctions at Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s
combined for more than $US108 million
($AU162.4 million) in Geneva over the weekend.
Sotheby’s Geneva has achieved two new world
records, including the sale of a yellow-gold Rolex
Daytona ‘John Player Special’ (ref. 6241).
Described by the auction house as ‘the best
seen in the past 10 years’ the timepiece returned
$US2.49 million ($AU3.74 million).
“When this 1969 Daytona John Player Special
reference came into my hands, I immediately knew
the piece was extremely special indeed,” Sotheby's
Geneva head of watches Mikael Wallhagen told
WatchPro.
Rival auction house Phillips Auctioneers sold a
diamond-set Rolex Daytona (ref. 6270) for $US4.11
million ($AU6.17 million).
Also of note was the sale of a rare Rolex Milgauss
(ref. 6541) for $US2.5 million ($AU3.75 million).
21
1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL
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News
Iconic Princess Diana jewellery at auction
A pearl and diamond necklace with matching earrings once owned by
Princess Diana, known as the Swan Lake Suite, is expected to return
up to $US15 million ($AU22.1 million) at auction.
The piece was created by former British Crown Jeweller Garrard.
The platinum necklace is mounted with brilliant-cut diamonds in a
scroll motif. Suspended from the necklace are five cultured South Sea
pearls and seven marquise diamonds in a fringe drop design.
“It’s very difficult to try to anticipate what something like this will sell
for,” Guernsey’s president Arlan Ettinger told Rapaport News.
“When items are appraised and estimated before an auction, they are
based upon precedent.
"Chances are you will find things that are similar, then it’s easier to
estimate its value. This is unique and it is an impossible task.”
Princess Diana wore the necklace in June of 1997 at the gala opening
of the Swan Lake ballet at London’s Royal Albert Hall, just months
before her untimely death in Paris.
The necklace features 178 diamonds in total and will hit the block in
New York at Guernsey’s auction house on 27 June.
World of Heidi Horten breaks record
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The three-part World of Heidi Horten at Christie’s in Geneva has
broken the world record for the most expensive jewellery collection
to feature at auction.
Part one took place live on 8 May and featured 96 items, returning
$US155.6 million ($AU234.5 million). Two days later the second portion
returned $US42.4 million ($AU63.9 million). The affair concluded online
on 15 May, garnering a further $US4.2 million ($AU6.3 million).
In total, 98 per cent of the items were sold for a return of $US202.2
million ($AU304.7 million).
“Horten was introduced to the allure of beautiful objects from a young
age as her father was an engraver. Her love for jewellery and art
deepened after her marriage, according to the auction house,” writes
Oscar Holland of CNN.
“She went on to possess an array of decorative, modern and
contemporary artworks, some of which are housed in her museum.”
The World of Heidi Horten demolished a record set by the auction
of Elizabeth Taylor’s possessions in 2011 which generated more
than $US115 million ($AU173.3 million) in New York.
Of note was the sale of a Bulgari ring set with an emerald-cut,
6.9-carat, fancy intense pink, diamond for $US10.2 million
($AU15.3 million), more than double the upper presale estimate.
The Star of Africa, a necklace by Harry Winston headlined by a pearshaped,
54.9-carat ruby garnered $US3 million ($AU4.5 million).
The Sunrise Ruby, a ring containing a 25.5-carat ruby and
diamonds by Cartier, fetched $US14.6 million ($AU22 million),
missing the lower estimate.
22 | June 2023

News
Rio Tinto unveils Argyle Rose ring
Named the Argyle Rose and
valued at $2 million, Rio Tinto has
showcased the latest addition
to the Argyle Pink Diamonds
jewellery collection.
Designed by WA’s Solid Gold
Diamonds, the ring features
3.25-carats of Argyle pink and
blue fancy colour diamonds
encrusted in the shape of a
rose, surrounded by white
diamonds, and hand-set in
platinum and 18-carat gold.
The central attraction of the piece is a rare 1.36-carat, fancy deep pink
radiant-cut diamond. It is just one of 12 radiant cut diamonds from the
Argyle mine weighing more than one carat with a 1P colour grading.
Rio Tinto Minerals chief executive Sinead Kaufman said: “I am delighted to
launch the Argyle Rose. Encapsulating a rich history and an extraordinary
provenance, it is both a contemporary treasure and an heirloom for
tomorrow.”
She added: “These rare and precious diamonds are one and a half
billion years old, from one of the most beautiful places on earth, and
the world is simply not producing them anymore.”
The piece was created as part of the Argyle Pink Diamonds Icon
Partner program, a Rio Tinto initiative aimed at preserving the
‘provenance and integrity’ of some of the world’s most desirable
diamonds.
Operating in Perth and Adelaide, Solid Gold Diamonds is headed by founder
Peter Greene who said: “As a pioneer custodian of Argyle pink fiamonds, it
was incredibly humbling to be asked to design a true generational heirloom
for the Argyle Pink Diamonds Icon Partner program.”
1/2 PG V
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“Solid Gold Diamonds has built a strong partnership with Argyle Pink
Diamonds over the past three decades.”
The Argyle Rose will be available for sale through Solid Gold Diamonds,
located in Perth.
Pandora reports fourth quarter of
revenue increase, adjusts forecast
The world’s largest mass-market jewellery brand, Pandora, has
reported a modest increase in revenue in the opening quarter of 2023.
Revenue improved by one per cent on a year-by-year comparison,
reaching $US864.8 million ($AU1.28 billion).
The Copenhagen-based business opened 87 new concept stores
and 112 new stores worldwide. Online sales decreased by six per cent.
“We have started 2023 well with resilient improvement and solid
margins,” CEO Alexander Lacik said in a statement.
“Our investments in lifting the brand are paying off with a good
performance from our Moments brand and strong results from the newer
platforms, Timeless and Pandora ME. It’s clear that we are increasingly
the jewellery brand of choice, particularly for gifting occasions.”
Pandora has adjusted its forecast for the full year following the opening
quarter sales results, anticipating an organic revenue decrease of
between two and three per cent.

10 Years Ago
Time Machine: June 2013
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
Historic Headlines
4 Python hunter turns jewellery treasure hunter
4 China slashes duties on Swiss watches
4 Briolette diamond sets $12 million record
4 Tiffany targeted by jewel thief
4 Sony opens SmartWatch to developers
Hong Kong jewellery show
splits in two
In response to increased exhibitor and visitor
numbers, the organiser of the Hong Kong
International Jewellery Show has decided to
split the fair into two separate events.
As of March 2014, the show will divide into the
Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and
the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem
and Pearl Show.
According to fair organiser Hong Kong Trade
Development Council (HKTDC), the jewellery
show will feature finished jewellery products,
jewellery accessories, jewellery display and
packaging materials, tools and equipment. It
will take place at the Hong Kong Convention
and Exhibition Centre from Wednesday 5
March to Sunday 9 March.
The diamond, gem and pearl show meanwhile,
will be a specialised trade platform for loose
stones and raw materials. It will be held at
the AsiaWorld-Expo from Monday 3 March to
Friday 7 March 2014.
De Beers compensation cheques
in the mail
The final payments from the De Beers class
action settlement should be made in the coming
weeks, with the case – beginning more than 10
years ago – expected to close by the end of 2013.
As Jeweller reported in May last year, the
long-running antitrust action that accused the
company of price fixing was drawing to a close
after the US Supreme Court denied a final appeal
by De Beers.
The court decision meant the diamond-mining
company was finally given the go-ahead to
make compensation payments to retailers,
manufacturers and consumers that bought its
diamonds and diamond jewellery.
May 2013
ON THE COVER Kagi
Editor’s Desk
4Are you a middle marketer?
"Today, this new consumer behaviour
means anyone trading in the middle
market finds themselves grappling
with a continually shifting consumer
mindset, which is causing a squeeze
from both the premium and value
ends. The old norm has changed.
Welcome to the new norm, a place
where confusion abounds, and
no-one lives happily ever after.
Some experts believe the enormous
increase in choice has also
contributed to this shift."
Soapbox
4 Opal gets a bad rap at home but
definitely not overseas
“As an industry, we need to capitalise on
the enthusiasm the Chinese have shown
for our home-grown gemstone. We can
reap rewards in two ways – by selling
more opals and through tourism, which
I believe also helps to sell more opals.
The Chinese are starting to travel more
and are very interested in Australia.
Knowing that it is the home to the world’s
best opals is sure to encourage further
tourism, which will only boost sales.”
Andrew Cody – The National Opal
Collection
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
Paying the premium
“Offering occasional free gifts or repair
services can also tempt potential
customers to make a purchase or
prompt existing customers to buy again.
Promoting the offer through other social
media channels, newsletters and emails
is beneficial, as not all readers will follow
a blog on a regular basis.”
Emily Mobbs
Jewellery fair moves to
Gold Coast
In yet another adjustment to next year’s
Australian Jewellery Fair schedule, the
Queensland-based show has been relocated
from Brisbane to the Gold Coast.
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
The fair will take place at the Gold Coast
Convention and Exhibition Centre at Broadbeach
from Sunday 23 March to Monday 24 March 2014.
As previously reported by Jeweller, organisers
decided to consolidate the Melbourne and
Brisbane shows in 2014 in response to exhibitor
and visitor feedback.
The research reportedly found that while many
believed two fairs were unnecessary given the
current economic climate, suppliers and retailers
still wanted an event held in the same period
after Christmas in order to top up supplies for the
upcoming year.
Jewellers “not affected” by
GST-free threshold campaign
A push to remove the $1,000 GST-free
threshold from overseas online purchases
appears to have stumbled. But some believe it
won’t greatly affect the jewellery industry.
Support for a united Australian National
Retailers Association (ANRA) campaign
against the $1,000 GST-free threshold on
international purchases has hit a hurdle after
supermarket giants Coles and Woolworths
appear to have withdrawn their support.
The grocery powerhouses have stated
that Australian consumers are already
facing rising living costs and adding GST to
international purchases under $1,000 would
only add to the burden.
24 | June 2023

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Completing my diploma in
Gemmology has benefited
me as a jeweller in more
ways than I ever expected.
I have always had an interest
in gemstones and found
the course was not only
informative and challenging
but immensely rewarding.
Studying with the GAA has also
allowed me to meet like-minded
people from many facets of the
jewellery industry and grants me access
to resources that I will continue to use
throughout my professional career.
Emma Meakes FGAA
Jeweller, John Miller Design - WA
Diploma in
Gemmology
Enrolments now open
For more information
1300 436 338
learn@gem.org.au
www.gem.org.au
Be
Brilliant
Gem-Ed Australia
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Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts
and consumers about gemstones

REVIEW
Gems
Tools of the Trade: Part IV
L to R: Neodymium magnets; Chelsea Colour Filter, Specific gravity
In the three previous issues of Jeweller,
the Tools of the Trade series has
detailed the importance of many vital
gemmological instruments.
These include the loupe, tweezers,
dichroscope, ultraviolet light torch,
polariscope, the Chelsea Colour Filter,
specific gravity, and neodymium magnets.
In the fourth and final edition of the series,
it’s time to explore some of the most
informative instruments available today.
Though not quite travel friendly, a
combination of the refractometer,
spectroscope, and microscope
often provides enough information to
give a strong indication of a gemstone’s
origins and identity.
The refractometer is one of only two
gemmological instruments that produces a
numerical value as a test result along with
the specific gravity test.
This makes it possible to reference
the result against a set of constants for
gemstones and narrow down the
possibilities of what you are testing.
As is often the case with gemmological
testing instruments, understanding the
principles behind the refractometer is
essential to accurately interpret the results.
As light travels through air then enters a
denser medium, for example as a ray of
light passes through a gemstone, it bends
and slows down.
The degree to which the light bends
is directly related to the density of the
material. This bending of light is known
as refraction.
In some gemstones, the ray of light will
both bend and split into two rays.
Each of these rays will have its own
refractive index that is determined by
the direction the ray is travelling in the
gemstone.
Whether a gemstone has one or
more refractive indices, the values are
generally quite consistent within each
gemstone species.
This leaves you with useful information
about the optical nature of the gemstone
being studied.
Interpreting the information is ‘easy’;
however, obtaining it in the first place
can be difficult for the inexperienced.
Testing a gemstone on the refractometer
can be challenging for some at first.
As always, practice is the key!
Spectroscope
Another instrument that is often difficult to
master is the handheld spectroscope.
As the name suggests – this instrument
splits white light into its seven spectral
components of red, orange, yellow, green,
blue, indigo, and violet.
When using the spectroscope, a
gemstone is placed between the light
source and the instrument.
The spectrum produced in the
spectroscope allows the observer to
distinguish which parts of the spectrum,
and therefore wavelengths of light, are
absorbed by the gemstone.
Used in the fields of both gemmology and
chemistry, the spectroscope is a window to
the chemistry of a gemstone.
More specifically, it offers an insight into
the elements that are responsible for the
observed light absorption.
As each element has a characteristic
absorption pattern, the spectroscope can
be useful for identifying which elements
The microscope
acts as a portal
to a new
world, offering
interesting scenes
of inclusions
that can produce
captivating
photomicrography.
are present within a gemstone.
For example, a gemmologist may observe
chromium in ruby or iron in an almandine
garnet.
Microscope
In the conclusion of the Tools of the Trade
series, it’s fitting that we should reflect on
the instrument which so often sparks a
gemmologists love affair with the science.
The microscope acts as a portal to a
new world, offering interesting scenes of
inclusions in gemstones that can produce
captivating photomicrography.
Additionally, this high power of observation
can reveal valuable information, such
as a gemstone’s country of origin or any
treatments it may have been subjected to.
With a dedication to learning to use the
gemmological microscope and its different
lighting techniques, this one instrument
might rightfully be considered the most
valuable in a gemmologist’s arsenal given the
sheer volume of information one may gain.
Finally, it’s important to note that the
instruments themselves are less than half
the requirement for gemstone testing.
The knowledge gained in gemmological
studies and an understanding of how
results are obtained and what they mean is
essential to accurately identifying gemstones,
and indirectly, their value.
Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT
began her career in the industry at
Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now
balances her role at the Gemmological
Association of Australia with studying
geology at the University of Queensland.
Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan
For more information on gems and
gemmology, go to www.gem.org.au
June 2023 | 27

TREND FEATURE
Mess Not To Miss
At the beginning of this year, an intriguing theory
circulated on social media suggesting that celebrities
were abandoning necklaces and chains.
The theory gained traction after the appearance of popular figures
such as Selena Gomez, Daisy Edgar-Jones and Quinta Brunson at
various awards shows with bare necklines. Some designers attributed
it to a desire to promote ‘youthful’ looks.
Mimi Cuttrell, a stylist for actress Madelyn Cline, said that jewellery
can occasionally overpower outfits and that it’s important not to mix the
‘messaging’ of certain looks.
“Awards season is always full of glitter, glamour and conversationstirring
styling. But after Hollywood's elite walked the red carpet of
the Golden Globes on 10 January, there was something noticeably
absent from the majority of show-goers' looks: a necklace,” writes
Brook Frischer of Yahoo Life.
“For as long as red carpets have existed, so have celebrities
sparkling in the most eye-catching, statement-making necklaces.
“In fact, the business of jewellery lending dates back to the 1930s,
and has become a phenomenon of sorts, leading to some of the
most iconic moments in Hollywood fashion history.”
When trends such as these generate mainstream attention, it can be
tempting for jewellery retailers to consider neglecting the category
and focusing their efforts elsewhere. That would be a major mistake!
It’s often said that celebrities and those living life in the public eye
command tremendous influence over jewellery fashion.
Due to the number of intangibles involved in style and fashion;
however, measuring that influence is near impossible – and many
question whether it exists at all.
One such sceptic is Simone Walsh, founder of Simone Walsh
Designs in South Australia.
“We have actually asked our customers about this in the past and
they've told us that celebrities have very little influence in terms of
what they like to wear,” she tells Jeweller.
“My feeling is that existing trends tend to be picked up and amplified by
celebrities and their stylists.
“This in turn further influences what other people are wearing and it
filters out to those who don't pay much attention to celebrity culture.”'
Walsh is far from the only jeweller to doubt the importance of
celebrity trends.
Georgina Degreef, the owner of Georgina Dunn Jewellery, says that
her focus is on creating ‘classic’ modern jewellery and that celebrity
influence has no impact on that process.
“I personally don’t look to celebrities when designing my jewellery so I
know that my jewellery isn’t influenced by them,” she explains.
“My customers however are not looking for high-end jewellery from me,
they are looking for practical everyday handmade jewellery.
‘This just isn’t the kind of thing which is worn on the red carpet.”
Psychological impact
SAMUEL ORD examines recent changes in
attitude towards bold chains and necklaces.
Source: Sara Weinstock
So much of the ‘art’ of jewellery is concerned with self-expression
and when it comes to making a statement, there’s little that can
match the influence of an eye-catching neckline.
Necklaces are one of the earliest known adornments adopted by
humans to display class, religious conviction and cultural status,
and it’s easy to understand why.
June 2023 | 29

Karlie Kloss
x Loewe
When it comes to communication the change
in characteristics of an individual’s face have a
crucial psychological role to play.
Albert Mehrabian, a researcher of body language,
was one of the first academics to break down the
components of face-to-face conversation.
He believed that communication is 55 per cent
non-verbal, 38 per cent vocal, and just 7 per cent
the literal words being spoken.
With that in mind, it’s easy to understand
that when an individual wears an evocative or
eye-catching necklace or chain, every word
they speak is being both physically and literally
underlined by the jewellery they wear.
For retailers, this means that necklaces and
chains can’t be an overlooked category.
While other categories such as engagement
rings hold powerful cultural positions, jewellery
dedicated to the neckline is perhaps the most
impactful one can offer.
“The jewellery you wear speaks volumes about
your taste as well as your individuality. Thus,
an elegant necklace can easily be used as an
accessory to express who you are and to leave
a lasting impression on others,” writes Angelo
Ghisa of Sphyre.
“It is for this reason that women have a wide
variety of necklaces in their closets; there are
more casual ones that are appropriate for a
While other categories such as engagement
rings hold powerful cultural positions,
jewellery dedicated to the neckline is perhaps
the most impactful one can offer.
business look, and there are more dramatic and
fancy ones for wearing outside the office.”
He adds: “However, remember that the
necklace reveals a lot about you, more than any
other accessory.”
Command attention
Autore
For those that do place importance on the jewellery
worn by so-called trendsetters, it’s become clear
that the days of subtle ‘under the radar’ jewellery
designs have come and gone.
The cycle of fashion has returned to loud pieces
that don’t request your attention – they demand it.
Many influential celebrities have embraced
‘maximalism’ in recent years and one worthy of
study is Stefani Germanotta, otherwise known
as Lady Gaga.
"If there’s anybody to take back the idea that
celebrities aren’t wearing necklaces anymore
- a theory that started on TikTok earlier this year
and was used as proof of a move toward socalled
‘recession-core’ - it’s Lady Gaga,” writes
Annie Brown of Vogue.
“Not because she doesn’t read the mood, but
because nobody can pull out exquisite pieces
from the Tiffany & Co archives as she can.”
She adds: “Lady Gaga wasn’t the only one to
unpick the idea that while in recent months
celebrities such as Phoebe Edgar-Jones and
Margot Robbie hadn’t worn necklaces on the red
carpet, they are certainly far from extinct. In fact,
they’re dazzling.”
Maximalism is the word most commonly attributed
to the change in the air when it comes to style.
In the arts, maximalism is considered a reaction
against minimalism and an embrace of the
aesthetic of excess.
The phrase ‘more is more’ is often bandied
around by supporters of the style, a sharp
contrast to the more pervasive philosophy of
Portrait of a young Italian
Leonardo Gasser, 1831
Portrait of a Lady
Lucas Cranach the Younger, 1564
Empress Maria Fedorovna
Ivan Kramskoi, 1882
Erzherzogin Maria Magdalena
Großherzogin von Toskana, 1587

Kim Kardashian
x Schiaparelli
Irina Shayk x Ana Khouri
Amanda Seyfried x Cartier
‘less is more’.
“The bold glamour necklace in diamonds and
gemstones reminiscent of Hollywood’s Golden
Age stole the jewellery spotlight at almost all
the events during awards season,” writes Beth
Bernstein of Forbes.
“It has also recently turned up on the catwalks
at the fall and winter ready-to-wear shows
and in the designer studios of contemporary
independent designers who also feature one-ofkind
vintage pieces or antique dealers who also
offer modern gemstones.”
She adds: “The looks ranged from the elegant
diamond fringe and drop styles to multiple choker
strands to coloured gemstones and more.”
History lesson
Germanotta’s influence over style and design in
jewellery is based on her success in the music
industry, where we find many other influential
figures in the neckline game.
Rihanna, Madonna, Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez, and
Katy Perry – to name but a few – have all ignited
trends in recent years, and it’s not just influential
women changing the game.
Frank Ocean, Kendrick Lamar, ASAP Rocky,
Kanye West, and Lil Nas X have all had a role
to play when it comes to popularising trends in
jewellery, and it should come as no surprise that
these men all share something in common – a
hip-hop background.
Jewellery in hip hop – once commonly and now
derisively described as ‘bling’ – has been an
important icon of the music industry. Have you
ever wondered why that is?
“A hip-hop artist's style is a direct reflection
of their personality. The simple reason why
some rappers want to use flashy jewellery
pieces in their songs and videos is that it helps
them project a sense of wealth, class, and
seductiveness to their audience,” writes Jamal
Parpia of Supreme.
“Aside from wealth, it also defines how far they
have come in life. They use jewellery as a means
to express their personality and their core values
or beliefs.”
He adds: “Hip-hop culture is essentially built on
hustle culture, working non-stop 24 hours a day,
7 days a week to achieve the success they want.
Most of them came from difficult backgrounds
and have had their fair share of ups and downs
in their career.”
Despite the geographical distance, African
customs and belief have had a tremendous
influence on hip-hop culture.
In Ancient Egypt, gold chains were worn for
thousands of years as it was believed they
repelled evil spirits. Parpia says the influence of
those beliefs continues today.
“Back then, gold was also a symbol of
dominance and power, illustrating the success
and wealth of the owner,” he continues.
“Rappers wear it for the same reasons, with
the additional aspect of music and art. The first
hip-hop artist to introduce gold chains was RUN
DMC in the 80s.”
“Then, other popular artists like Big Daddy Kane,
Slick Rick, Eminem, and Jay Z caught on until
gold chains became a staple of hip-hop culture.”
Don’t miss out
Whether or not you believe that celebrities and
other public figures significantly influence the
choices of jewellery consumers, necklaces and
bold chains is a category retailers cannot afford to
neglect.
Culturally, they’ve been used as an important
statement piece for much of human history
and psychologically, they’re a powerful tool for
communicating style and personality.
It’s of vital importance that jewellers don’t
neglect their necklace and chain inventory
as they play a crucial role in a well-balanced
offering.
Jewellery is all about personal story-telling, and
while engagement and wedding rings make an
important statement, for your customers the
story shouldn’t end there.
'Johann Friedrich von Pommern'
Giovanni Battista Perini, 1571
Maharaja of Mysore,
Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV
K. Keshavayya, 1906
Lucretia
Lucas Cranach the younger, 1537
'Salome with the Head
of Saint John the Baptist'
Lucas Cranach the Elder, 1530

Bolder is Better | ADVERTISING SHOWCASE
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32 | June 2023

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Various Chains
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Serpent Necklace
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Extendable Trace Chain
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June 2023 | 33

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CAD/CAM FEATURE
A Jeweller's Wand
CAD/CAM: A JEWELLER'S WAND
Business tactics have evolved significantly for jewellers in the
past decade, with change largely driven by improving technology.
SAMUEL ORD examines the impact of advancing manufacturing
capabilities on jewellery retail.
AMI 'IMMORTALITY' RING
(GUINNESS RECORD - 2022)
In 2022, SWA Diamonds broke the Guinness
World Record for the most diamonds set in
one ring with this pink oyster mushroominspired
design. Named Ami (sanskrit for
'Immortality'), it is set with 24,679 diamonds.

A Jeweller's Wand | CAD/CAM FEATURE
AMI 'IMMORTALITY' (GUINNESS RECORD 2022)
The ring is set with 47.70-carats of IGI certified diamonds
SRINKIA (GUINNESS RECORD 2022)
Renani Jewels created this watch with
17,512 certified diamonds totalling 53.98-carats.
MARIGOLD (GUINNESS RECORD - 2020)
Renani Jewels set this intricate ring with
12,638 certified diamonds totalling 47.70-carats.
T
he jewellery trade can be a complicated
and gruelling industry, dominated by long
hours at the bench, difficult orders to fill
and hard-to-please customers.
With that said, more and more jewellers are choosing to ‘sail
in smoother waters’ by embracing emerging technologies.
Advances in science and technology reshaped a number of
retail industries over the past 10 years and few practices
have had as much of an impact as Computer-Aided Design
and Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAD/CAM).
As many retailers told Jeweller, CAD/CAM offers virtually
unlimited design potential and opens the door to
previously unimaginable possibilities.
By utilising these tools, jewellers are able to design and
manufacture pieces of the highest fashion and quality for
an increasingly affordable price to the customer.
In other words, high fashion and ‘big ticket’ jewellery is
no longer the exclusive province of the major brands and
elite designers.
An experienced operator can break down a design into
separate pieces to ensure manufacturing and finishing
to a high standard is easier.
These jewellers no longer have to feel daunted by
intricate designs that would once take many agonising
days or even weeks to make by hand.
In one sense the ultimate beneficiary is the customer,
who receives the jewellery of their dreams at a price that
doesn’t ‘break the bank’.
With that said, these forward-thinking jewellers also enjoy
the benefits of not only another happy customer, but also as
an improved reputation in their respective market.
For others, great importance is placed on the
ERIC KOJADELIAN
VAHE JEWELLERY
“I’m a firm believer in the
importance of CAD/CAM
and 3D printing in our trade.
It really is the way to go, at
the end of the day you can
accomplish so much which
you can’t do by hand."
MARIA KOSTINA
MARIA K JEWELLERY
“Nothing beats showing
your customer the piece
during jewellery design - 2D
drawings are great of course,
however; sometimes they
can be misleading."
CARLO ROMEO
CARLO ROMEO JEWELLERS
“We can show our
customers a life-like render
as well as photos before the
final product is made. This
increases the chances that
they’ll be happy when all is
said and done."
satisfaction of a job well done. One such jeweller who
fits the description of an ‘experienced operator’ is Carlo
Romeo, of Carlo Romeo Jewellers in Kewdale, WA.
Romeo has worked with jewellery since the 1980s, and
today uses 3D imaging to provide customers with the
chance to review pieces before they’re manufactured.
When customers are satisfied with the design his staff then
creates the piece using gemstones and precious metals.
“The most important benefit of working with these
technologies is the increased speed and reduction in
time spent completing a project from start until finish,”
he explains.
"An experienced operator can break down a design
into separate pieces to ensure manufacturing and
finishing to a higher standard is easier."
“We can show our customers a life-like render as well as
photos before the final product is made. This increases the
chances that they’ll be happy when all is said and done.”
He adds: “We can also print a resin sample and
physically showcase the piece to the customer.”
Nearly 4,000 kilometres away in Sydney, jewellery designer,
and gemmologist Maria Kostina applies her craft at the
business she founded in 2021 – Maria K Jewellery.
She agrees that the ability to work closely with
customers during the design process is the most vital
benefit of CAD/CAM manufacturing.
“Nothing beats showing your customer the piece during
jewellery design - 2D drawings are great of course, however;
sometimes they can be misleading,” she tells Jeweller.
“With CAD you could show the design through realistic
36 | June 2023

A Jeweller's Wand | CAD/CAM FEATURE
SEA URCHIN ON THE ROCKPOOLS RING
(JAA PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER 2022)
Maria Kostina was Inspired by Sydney's northern Collaroy
rockpools for this intricate piece crafted in 18-carat
white gold and set with over 200 white diamonds totalling
2.75-carats, 1.20-carats of sapphires and Akoya pearls.
EUTIERRIA RING (GUINNESS RECORD 2023)
In 2023, HK Designs and Hari Krishha Exports broke the
Guinness World Record for the most diamonds set in one
ring with a design that symbolises becoming one with
nature. It is set with 50,907 diamonds.
renders and also 3D print the model for the customers
to try on.”
“This way the customer knows what to expect and even
those particularly fussy customers can be satisfied.”
Power of precision
With more than 40 years of experience, Romeo has
witnessed tremendous shifts in the trade as technology
has slowly but surely taken over many responsibilities
once managed by hand.
In Victoria, it’s a matter of the same principles with
slightly different messaging at another technologydriven
jewellery store.
"By utilising these tools, jewellers are able to design
and manufacture pieces of the highest fashion
and quality for an increasingly affordable price
to the customer."
Based in Roweville, the staff at Vahe Jewellery are taking
a unique approach to retail – the store is alive with the
sights and sounds of a bustling workshop as bench
jewellers remain hard at work.
It’s a sharp contrast to the typical quiet elegance of
a jewellery store, where director Eric Kojadelian was
introduced to the trade by his father.
Kojadelian says the importance of technology in
manufacturing is all he’s ever known as something of a
‘new generation’ jeweller.
“I’m a firm believer in the importance of CAD/CAM and
3D printing in our trade. It really is the way to go, at the
end of the day you can accomplish so much which you
can’t do by hand,” he tells Jeweller.
38 | June 2023
KNOW THE ADVANTAGES
3D Printing
IMPROVED DESIGN
Jewellers are able to create
increasingly intricate and
complex pieces, closing the
gap between independents and
high-profile designers.
REDUCED WASTE
CAD/CAM and 3D printers
create less waste than
traditional methods, an added
benefit for the jeweller and the
environment.
EXPECTATIONS
When it comes to custom
creation, customers are given
a better idea of what to expect
when commissioning a piece if
they are given the chance to
view a sample.
TIME SAVED
CAD/CAM and 3D printers
can reduce the production
turnaround for jewellers,
opening the door for more
time to complete other tasks.
HIGHER QUALITY
The quality of any piece of
jewellery is in the eye of the
beholder, however; jewellers
using CAD/CAM suggest
that emerging technologies
produce superior products.
ACCURACY
Getting measurements
correct is a vital part of
creating jewellery, especially
if it involves gemstones.
“When my father introduced me to the business he told me
on day one that the days of doing things by hand are over.”
He says that it’s never a matter of simply printing and
casting a ring in one piece and ‘rushing’ through the job,
as the end result with that attitude is typically a poor finish.
He offers a comparison to imported mass-produced
jewellery and says that Australian customers expect and
deserve better.
“I model my pieces in multiple parts, before cleaning
and polishing each individual piece before assembly.
This gives me a finish that is as good as something that’s
handmade,” he says.
"In other words, high fashion and 'big ticket'
jewellery is no longer the exlusive province of
the major brands elite designers."
“It would be wrong for me to say these tools made my
job easier because it’s all I've ever known. We made a
major switch to resin printing a few years back.”
“We are able to produce smoother surfaces and better
wire work. With wax printing, the surfaces were rough
and required so much cleaning that it would change the
dimensions of the model.”
Romeo agrees with Kojadelian and says that it’s not
unreasonable to suggest that the end result is of a
‘higher quality’ compared with traditional methods.
“CAD/CAM and 3D printed jewellery are definitely higher
quality and importantly when it comes to the gemstones,
you get the added benefit of accurate measurements,”
he says.
“The other major benefit worth remembering is the
reduction in waste that we find with manufacturing with

A Jeweller's Wand | CAD/CAM FEATURE
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3D printing compared with hand-made work.”
“I think that’s something everyone agrees is a
positive.”
Kostina says that the importance of specific and
accurate measurements cannot be understated.
“One of the key benefits of CAD/CAM technology
is precision, calculating costs and having a good
quote for the customer,” she explains.
“Then there’s knowing how many stones will be
applied in the process and how many grams of
metal will be used towards the design.”
"The most important benefit of working with
these technologies is the increased speed
and reduction in time spent completing
a project from start until finish."
“A business can save time when creating
complex designs as everything is printed and
cast. There’s cleaning and assembly left to do;
however, all the important calculations have
been made.”
Increasing demand
WORLD ACADEMY
OF DESIGN
GEMVISION
Due to early success with CAD/CAM, some
businesses elect to overhaul methods of
manufacturing and purchase new casting and
finishing machines.
A jeweller can develop their own alloys and
procedures and as a result, become an ‘in
demand’ creator of unique designs as every
piece is a one-off.
One retailer told Jeweller that it would be
impossible to maintain the current volume of
work without CAD/CAM and that they feel they
are ‘better jewellers’ as a result.
This business now works with other Australian
manufacturers in order to meet their demand by
supplying them with CAD files before each piece
is hand-finished in their workshop.
Back in Sydney and Kostina says that it’s not
uncommon to hear tales of retailers enjoying a
strengthened reputation among customers after
embracing CAD/CAM.
“Quotes are definitely easy to do as CAD is
so precise and there are no surprises for the
jeweller or the customer,” she says.
“Through CAD and 3D printing, customers can
try on the pieces and see if there are any minor
alterations that need to be applied to perfect the
design prior to making the real piece.”
“This saves time overall and realises their
expectations.”
She adds that the sense of personal satisfaction
and the joy of a ‘job well done’ makes work all the
more rewarding.
“As a designer myself I feel so much
empowerment when designing in CAD because
I feel in charge of the design,” she says.
“I didn’t need to pass on any information to
another designer on what I’m expecting.”
“I can play around with the piece in 3D and
understand the various options if we need an
alternative. It’s a very rewarding process.”
Success in business can be measured in many
different ways. Some look at the ‘bottom line’
and profit, while others such as Kostina value a
sense of happiness generated by their work.
"When my father introduced me to the
business he told me on day one that the days
of doing things by hand are over."
More often than not it’s a combination of
multiple factors. Jewellers have many reasons
to strive for success, such as providing a
comfortable lifestyle for themselves and their
families.
Kojadelian says that at the end of the day, it’s
about putting food on the table – a task that’s
easier accomplished by harnessing the power of
technology.
“I would say the most significant benefit
of working with CAD/CAM and 3D printing
technology is having the ability to produce things
I simply wouldn’t be able to by hand,” he says.
“However at the end of the day, I just don’t think
you can turn a profit by spending more than 40
hours each week hand-crafting a complex ring.
“As my father told me, those days have come
and gone.”
Of course, these are not the experiences of
every jeweller and indeed, many customers still
value the ‘authentic’ appeal of a hand-crafted
original piece.
That demand will still need to be met by some;
however, for so many other jewellers change is
in the air.
From sketches and handmade models to
3D imaging and creation, the industry has
changed significantly in recent years and due
to the many advantages these advancements
present jewellers, it would appear that they
are here to stay.
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BUSINESS
Strategy
Customer service and dating:
they’re not so different!
Looking to improve your customer service technique?
SHEP HYKEN encourages you to learn from your dating experiences.
I’m happy with the title of this article,
but perhaps a more appropriate angle
might be ‘customer service is like
being married’.
The buying cycle for a customer typically
includes a little research, talking to a
salesperson, making the purchase, and
whatever happens after the sale.
That could include a follow-up from the
salesperson, dealing with customer
service for a problem, or any other
interaction you have with the business or
brand after the sale is made.
Many businesses spend a lot of money and
expend tremendous effort to get you in the
door or to their website.
They entice you with marketing
messages, advertising, and anything
else that could tip the scale to move a
customer from thinking about buying to
making the purchase.
Marketing messages and advertising
campaigns create credibility. A
salesperson’s promises make you feel
good about doing business with them and
their business.
And if all goes well, eventually, a sale
is finalised.
Some refer to this moment as ‘closing the
deal’. I always joke about that phrase.
Closing the deal signifies an ending,
however; in reality it’s the beginning of the
financial relationship.
To put it in dating terms, everything else
was courting the customer. Once the
customer decides to buy, it’s like you’ve
proposed to them, and they said yes.
When the sale is made, it’s like getting
married and as we know that is far
from the end – in fact, it’s more like
the beginning.
Once you can officially call someone a
customer, instead of a prospect, it’s time
to keep them around! In other words, you
want to make the relationship last.
According to the American Psychological
Association, in 2022 approximately 40-50
per cent of first marriages end in divorce.
The main reason for divorce is simple:
a lack of commitment. My question to
your business is what percentage of your
customers leave after the first sale?
In other words, what’s the divorce rate of
your customers?
Once the sale is made there is the
honeymoon phase, in which the customer
is excited about the purchase and you let
the customer know how excited you are
about doing business with them.
How long does that last? Ideally, the
honeymoon phase should never end! While
the excitement may ebb and flow, the
customer should always feel appreciated.
What can you do to court your customers
and more importantly keep your
customers in the honeymoon phase?
It could be when
the customer
places an order,
on the invoice,
in a follow-up
email or thank
you note, and
more. You can
never say thank
you enough.
Spend time with your staff and discuss
what is done after the sale. Consider why
your customers may end up ‘divorcing
you’ and why they may have started a
new relationship with a competitor.
Make them feel special
An important goal of a good customer
experience is to make the customer
feel special.
That special feeling can come in many
different forms. I was reading an
article about customer retention, and
it prompted me to start a list of ways to
make customers feel special.
What is it that makes a jewellery store
customer want to come back and even
share their experience with friends,
family, and colleagues?
I’ll bet there’s an entire book that can be
devoted to this topic, but for today we’ll
keep it to the first few that come to mind.
• Stop selling and start nurturing
relationships: Selling is the easy part,
building a relationship that fosters
confidence, trust and connection is the
less obvious technique.
If every time you contact the customer,
be it in person, over the phone, by
email, texting, or any other form of
communication, all you do is sell, sell,
sell, the customer will tune you out.
If you are showing interest in customers
outside of their wallet, you’re nurturing
42 | June 2023

elationships. The customer experience
shouldn’t just be a non-stop sales pitch.
• Provide education: Are your customers
wiser as a result of their interaction with
your business?
This is about more than just tips on how
to be more successful with your products
- how can you help them be more
successful in their business or life?
Provide education that’s tied to what
you’re known for and don’t do it with a
sales pitch. This is purely a value-add –
one that adds to the customer experience.
• Offer sneak peeks of your newest
products: Insider access is always a
powerful way of making a customer
feel special.
If you’re not a customer, you don’t get the
‘inside information’. And this information
should be compelling enough to make
them want to remain your customer.
• Make it personal: It’s easy to send
text messages and emails that include a
customer’s name and other information
that make them feel as if the message is
personalised and just for them.
That’s just the packaging - the true
personal approach is to make sure the
message is 100 per cent on target for
the customer. In other words, if you sell
jewellery and you know your customer
buys branded jewellery, don’t send
them messages about engagement
rings. The wrong content destroys the
personalisation effort.
• Always thank the customer: There are
many opportunities to thank the customer.
It could be when the customer places an
order, on the invoice, in a follow-up email
or thank you note, and more. You can
never say thank you enough.
Your customers trusted you enough to
part with their money. Don’t ever let
them walk away unappreciated.
Mile high education
On a recent flight, the captain of the plane
announced over the PA system what time
we would arrive at our destination.
That would have been enough to make
most people happy. However, he
continued his announcement with a
further three-minute speech.
We learned that we would take off to the
west, make a U-turn a few minutes later
to head east, how high we would go, and
the many cities we would be flying over.
He also didn’t forget to let us know that we
would take a right turn as we approached
the runway to land! I looked around and
noticed many people were annoyed or
had stopped paying attention to the longwinded
announcement.
The point is most customers don’t care as
much about the details of the journey as
they care about the destination.
Here’s another example, which has
nothing to do with a journey but does
have to do with an overload of details
that can hurt a sale or erode the
customer experience.
Some people love a fancy, expensive
sports car, while others just want
reliable transportation. Even though
these customers essentially want the
same thing – a vehicle to get them
from one place to another – these are
different customers.
A few years ago, my wife and I were
BECOME A
MASTER OF
WOOING
Stop selling,
start
nurturing
Selling jewellery
is easy. Focus
on building
relationships.
Make it
personal
Pitching the
wrong product to
a customer is a
disaster.
Provide
education
Your customers
should always
leave your store
feeling that they
have learned
something
useful.
Thank you
There’s always
an opportunity
to thank your
customer for
their time. Don’t
miss it.
looking for a new car. We narrowed it
down to the make and model – even the
colour – we thought we wanted.
We walked into the dealership and were
approached by a salesperson who was
very friendly and engaging. Then, we told
him what we were looking for.
The salesman took us over to the exact
car we wanted. He was very excited!
He started to share details about the
size of the engine, how many cylinders
it had, how quickly the car could
accelerate, and many other details that
mattered nothing to us.
Had he asked why we were interested in
this model of car, he would have realised
we had no real interest in such details.
Our version of the destination was that
we wanted a nice-looking car that was
comfortable, safe, and easy to drive.
Maybe we wanted to know a few other
details; however, nothing to the extent
he was sharing. Had he paid attention,
he would have noticed he had us when
he said, “I have the exact car you’re
looking for.”
My point is that most customers don’t
care about the details behind the
experience or jewellery they are buying.
It’s up to us to recognise this and respond
accordingly. All they want to know is what
awaits them at their destination.
SHEP HYKEN is a speaker and New
York Times and Wall Street Journal
best-selling author who works with
companies to build loyal relationships
with customers and employees.
Visit: hyken.com
June 2023 | 43

BUSINESS
Selling
The value of giving your customers certainty
Customers crave certainty and predictability from the businesses they interact with.
DAVID BROWN reveals the hidden value of reliability.
In June of the past year, the Federal
Reserve in the US raised interest
rates by 0.75 per cent in an effort to
combat inflation.
In the days and hours leading up to the
announcement, the share market had been
in a decline for five consecutive days in
anticipation of a potential rate rise and the
fear it may be as high as what it eventually
was - the biggest increase in 28 years.
Markets traditionally fall with interest
rate increases. A combination of their
impact on business costs and hence
their profit, and the fact investors see
higher interest rates as an alternative
place to invest their money.
Within minutes of the worst expected
scenario playing out the market took
off, climbing higher despite the
confirmation of what many thought
and feared would happen.
Fast forward to July and the same
scenario played out in Australia.
The local share market took off
immediately after the announcement
of a half-point rate hike, despite some
negative trading in the lead-up to
the announcement.
A similar situation has been observed
following recent political elections. The
uncertainty of not knowing the outcome
of an election is rapidly offset by positive
trading once the results are in regardless
of which party wins.
To most, the response of these share
markets seems counter-intuitive.
Surely, one would think, the confirmation
of unwelcome or dreaded news would be
seen as a negative. And yet, it is a perfect
example of how the public at large would
prefer the certainty of their worst fears
being realised.
A lesson to learn
So, you may be reading this and wondering,
sure that’s very interesting, but what has
this got to do with my jewellery business?
It’s a phenomenon that highlights the
value of providing consistency to
your customers.
I remember reading an article many
years ago about a customer who visited
a local hairdresser. After several visits,
the customer stopped going to that
hairdresser.
Was the haircut bad? The customer service
poor? The price too high?
None of those aspects of the visit were the
specific problem and, in fact, the haircuts
were all very much the same. The issue
was consistency.
Occasionally, the customer would be
charged one price and other times a
different price. The customer would be
offered an espresso by one hairdresser
during a visit, and then the next time,
not offered one by a another hairdresser.
The person cutting his hair would
constantly change.
In the end the customer found the
uncertainty too much to deal with.
Now, you may read this and think
that it sounds like a particularly
fussy customer, but it’s important to
understand that other customers will
likely think the same way. Even 10 per
cent of customers leaving for this
reason would be a ‘loss’ to any business.
So, what level of
consistency do
you give your
customers?
Do they know
what to expect
each time they
visit? Is there a
consistency in
the quality of
your product?
What about your
level of service?
Big business
If you don’t believe this situation, how
about an example for one of the biggest
businesses in the world?
Ask yourself this question – why do
you eat at McDonalds, or any fast-food
franchise for that matter? Is it the
quality of the food? Does McDonalds
make the best burgers?
Most people would agree that no, they
don’t. In fact, you’d be hard pressed to
find someone who would adamantly
defend that statement. And yet,
McDonalds is the world’s largest fastfood
restraint chain.
What McDonalds provides is certainty.
Whether you’re dining in Athens in
Georgia, or Athens in Greece, you
generally know what you’re going
to get. It’s this consistency and by
extension certainty - rather than the
quality of the product – that drives
customers to their door.
So, what level of consistency do you
give your customers? Do they know
what to expect each time they visit?
Is there a consistency in the quality of
your product? What about your level of
service? Do you leave your customers
wondering what to expect with each visit?
High-profile author Tony Robbins talks
about the contradictions we all have
within ourselves. One is the tendency
to want adventure and surprise and
the other is the need for a certain level
of predictability.
We work in an industry that needs to
provide a little of both to people. The
importance is to ensure they get the
right dose of each where they most
require it.
DAVID BROWN is co-founder
and business mentor with Retail
Edge Consultants. Learn more:
retailedgeconsultants.com
44 | June 2023

BUSINESS
Management
It’s time to move on from the myth of ‘potential’
In the jewellery trade, it’s natural for business owners to want to get the most they can out an employee.
DALE FURTWENGLER explains why that’s the wrong approach to leadership.
In business, we often hear the phrase
‘reaching their full potential’ used
when discussing the performance
of employees.
Then apply these memories to exploring
what intrigues you now. The passion you
feel will assure that you are equally, if not
more, successful in your new endeavor.
Business owners should understand
that the concept of an individual’s
‘full potential’ is a myth that’s too
easily bought into with the unfortunate
result being that we limit our ability to
understand what we know and what
we’re good at.
Potential is inherently unknown. Who
among us knows what our true potential
is? I know that I don’t. As I’ve gotten older
and looked back at some of the things I’ve
accomplished I realise that I could not have
envisioned being involved in these efforts
when I was young.
As I reflect on my earlier days, I realise
that there were many other opportunities
that didn’t capture my interest enough
for me to devote time and energy to
learning more about them.
I’m sure this is a feeling many reading this
will understand. Who knows what potential
I might have realised if I’d been passionate
enough to pursue them?
This brings us to the second reason
why full potential is a myth: potential
increases over time.
Expansion over time
With age and experience our potential
expands and develops. We gain knowledge
and we see how to apply that knowledge to
a broad array of situations.
In other words, our experience enables
us to see connections between what we
previously thought were separate and
distinct situations.
With each new experience and each new
insight our potential increases. Often that
leads to a desire to explore something
foreign to our everyday activities.
It’s one of the reasons why we see adults
exploring career choices completely
different than the ones in which they’ve
been involved for decades.
Despite their lack of background or
experience in their new field of choice,
they have assured success because they
are following their passion. It’s their
passion that makes learning what they
need to know fun and exciting for them.
Additionally, they have the added
advantage of confidence based upon
earlier successes.
Another way to look at potential is as
a byproduct of desire. The greater the
desire we possess for whatever interests
us, whether that be becoming a better
salesperson, or creating more impressive
jewellery, the greater the success we’ll
enjoy in pursuit of that interest.
Each success increases our potential.
So, what does this mean for you and
your business?
Never set limits
Do not limit your potential by assuming
you’ve reached your peak ability.
Whenever you feel that you’ve reached the
pinnacle of whatever you do, or find that
it’s no longer fun, remind yourself that
you have the potential to master whatever
intrigues you and then pursue it.
Remind yourself of the excitement you
experienced when you embarked upon
your current endeavors. Recall how your
passion fueled the amount of time and
energy you put into learning more and
more about what you were doing and how
that assured your success.
With each new
experience
and each
new insight
our potential
increases. Often
that leads to a
desire to explore
something
foreign to
our everyday
activities or
responsibilities.
In other words, realize that none of us
knows what potential we possess, but we
do know that potential improves with age
and experience.
Lessons for your staff
Whenever you hear someone speaking of
an employee reaching their full potential
share the following thoughts with them.
• Just because potential exists doesn’t
mean that desire exists as well. Over
the years we’ve each found that we have
strengths that represent potential, but we
have no desire to use these strengths in
ways others envision for us.
• Full potential is unknown to any of us
because our interests and passions change
over time. As new interests surface, our
potential increases as well.
Potential increases over time as we begin
to see new ways of employing what we’ve
learned to new, seemingly disparate issues
or activities.
If you’re mentoring a member of staff about
an area of improvement, ask them how
interested they are in pursuing that path.
If they say they are interested but their
demeanor doesn’t exhibit the excitement
that normally accompanies their claim, let
them know that potential doesn’t assure
success; passion does.
Let them know that it’s okay not to pursue
an ability or accomplishment just because
the potential exists.
The places in which they’ll find their
greatest joy and success in is those that
they are passionate about. They’ll thank
you for these insights.
DALE FURTWENGLER is a public
speaker, author, and the founder of
Teaching Confidence.
Learn more: teachingconfidence.com
June 2023 | 45

BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
Understanding the consumption
habits of young Aussies
Shopping preferences change from generation to generation.
SIMON DELL explains the characteristics which define today’s youngest consumers.
By 2030 ‘Generation Z’ and ‘Millennials’
will account for 48 per cent of retail
spending in Australia. Young shoppers
aim to be well-informed and hope to
find the balance between affordability
and quality.
Social media trends are the name of the
game for Gen Z. Product novelty matters
to them more than brand names. Many
businesses market their products through
social media influencers.
As jewellery retailers, it’s crucial
to understand the products young
Australians are buying and the
characteristics and designs which appeal
to their mindset the most.
Digital experience
It’s no secret young consumers today
are tech-obsessed. Wherever possible,
learn from the successes of streaming
services that collect payment from 95
per cent of Gen Z’s pockets. This age
group is more than happy to oblige with
the subscription model.
It’s not just because lazing on the couch
while binging your favourite shows is
so enticing! They offer basic features
or a trial program to new customers.
Then they suggest the option to pay for a
complete service.
Gen Z prefers digital services that are
entertaining and informative. When it
comes to software, and digital goods,
businesses don’t need to sell a particular
product. They need to keep users engaged
and entertained with a service over the
long term.
For non-digital brands and products,
consider how apps can enhance the
checkout experience. Loyalty program
trackers or the option to order for pick-up
increases digital visibility.
Local businesses
Gen Z uses ‘Buy Now Pay Later’ (BNPL)
services to support small businesses more
than Gen X or the Baby Boomers, meaning
it’s important for your business to appeal to
the local market.
Smaller businesses can offer experiencedriven
purchases that feel unique and
tailored to them. As we return to a postpandemic
‘normality’ the in-store shopping
is set to regain popularity.
They’re also willing to pay extra for
luxury items. Gen Z’s aversion to brand
loyalty means they are attentive to the
uniqueness of a product. Transparency
and efficiency drive their product inquiries.
This gives sales staff a chance to explain
how a product suits them and meets the
customer’s values.
Marketers commonly underestimate
Gen Z’s desire for an in-store shopping
experience. That said, 75 per cent of small
Aussie businesses lack a marketing
strategy for the demographic. Bricksand-mortar
stores can provide an
individualised customer experience.
Emphasising the social experience of
shopping itself is essential to maintaining
Gen Z’s interests.
Marketing
The smartphone generation are discerning
and experienced consumers of tech.
The key to standing out is a problem
and solution approach. This doesn’t
mean reinventing the wheel of personal
computing or gaming consoles. Instead,
market your business or product as merely
being compatible with the wide array of
gadgets Gen Z already owns.
Social media marketing and electronic
Gen Z’s aversion
to brand loyalty
means they
are attentive to
the uniqueness
of a product.
Transparency
and efficiency
drive their
product inquiries.
This gives sales
staff a chance
to explain how
a product suits
them and meets
the customer’s
values.
products goes hand-in hand. Younger
generations are more open to targeted
ads and data collection than those
previous.
Quick tips worth considering
Beyond the wider trends and patterns
worthy of studying, consider some of
the following pointers when it comes to
preparing your store for the road ahead.
• Time: Consider marketing yourself as a
time saver to customers. Time is money
for younger generations. Marketing
your product or services as efficient
when compared to the time-consuming
alternative will draw the attention of Gen
Z. Know your niche and focus on social,
interactive solutions.
• Refine your online presence: Business
websites, online stores and social media
pages need to be simple and engaging.
Convenience is the most attractive
feature of online shopping for Gen Z.
Make the journey from clicking to buying
as short as possible. Make sure your
social media profiles are up-to-date so
algorithms suggest your products to the
right customer.
• Community engagement: The
non-financial aspects of your business
are more important than ever. Gen Z
customers want to know your brand
stands for some sort of ‘ethical’ cause.
Community engagement as a business
– whether it be sponsoring a local
children’s sports team, a communal
gardening project, or perhaps a
fundraising drive for a worthy cause –
showcases loyalty to the community
surrounding a business.
When done in the right spirit, the
community will reward your business
with loyalty for years to come.
SIMON DELL is co-founder and CEO
of Cemoh, a Brisbane-based firm that
provides marketing staff on demand.
He specialises in digital marketing and
brand management.
Visit: cemoh.com
46 | June 2023

BUSINESS
Logged On
The three keys to digital marketing in 2023
Things change quickly in the digital world and it’s vital that your jewellery business stays ahead of the game.
SHANE O’NEILL explains how you can maximise the remarkable opportunities the internet presents.
It wasn’t that long ago that very few
jewellers were even using Facebook to
promote their business, let alone making
the most of paid services and internet
advertising.
Unfortunately, some jewellers still don’t
invest in the digital world to the level that
they should. Further, there is also still a
lack of sophistication regarding other digital
efforts such as email marketing and the
quality of business websites.
In my experience, these businesses that
are failing to make the most of what
the internet has to offer lack planning,
integration, strategy, understanding, and,
most of all, a budget. With that said, the
internet is now the dominant marketing
segment for jewellers and commands a
significant amount of marketing investment
– so it’s fair to say that the industry is at
least moving in the right direction.
If you suspect that your business is falling
behind when it comes to digital marketing,
consider reviewing these three areas. We
are nearly halfway through 2023, and it’s
never too late to turn things around.
Planning
It’s been said that ‘failing to plan is planning
to fail’ and that’s a message that should
always be kept in mind when planning your
digital marketing strategy.
In my business, we always say 'it starts with
a plan.' Unfortunately for many businesses,
planning when it comes to digital media, in
particular social media strategy, is often an
afterthought – something done ‘on the fly’.
My advice is to dedicate time to planning
your social media efforts. Are you planning
promotions for a specific holiday, such as
Mother’s Day or Valentine’s Day?
If so, ask yourself what needs to be done
online in the lead-up to this holiday. Keep
a close eye on your metrics and set goals
in terms of engagement and sales and
measure your level of success so that you
can build on these efforts in the future.
Strategy is the biggest ‘missing link’ I see
working with jewellery businesses.
Always ask yourself what it is you are
trying to achieve and what’s the best
solution for optimal results? In short,
what’s your strategy?
If you can’t effortlessly write it down, or
explain it to another person, then you don’t
understand your strategy thoroughly.
This is particularly an issue in social
media with promotions such as contests
and giveaways. The objective is almost
always one-dimensional: ‘get fans’.
How are you targeting those fans? How
are you promoting the campaign? Are you
prepared for issues, and who will manage
everything? Are these new fans coming
from outside your area?
Far too often I see businesses attempt
to execute a new promotion without
appointing someone to be directly in
charge! When no particular person is
in charge of a promotion, it will quickly
become directionless.
These sorts of campaigns aren’t ‘plug and
play’ and when no one is responsible for
pursuing a victory, everyone loses.
Understanding
You would be surprised how many
jewellers are actively using paid SEO
services, social media and other digital
marketing channels without completely
understanding their function or role in
marketing.
Digital media is a mature medium now
Digital media is
a mature media
now and it
should be taken
as seriously as
other forms of
marketing.
and it should be taken as seriously as other
forms of marketing.
If you’re expecting immediate results
using social media, you’re missing the
point! Social media is primarily about
building relationships with consumers and
establishing the reputation of a brand.
It’s about ensuring that you stay front of
mind for consumers looking to purchase
jewellery and this process should be viewed
from a long-term perspective – there are no
‘quick wins’ in digital marketing.
Budgeting
If you haven’t thoroughly budgeted your
digital marketing strategy by now, you’re a
long way from where you need to be.
As I previously said, digital marketing is
now a mature media and as you would for
any other form of advertising, you must be
documenting and planning your spending.
It’s not a matter of simply investing ‘a little
here and there’.
That’s a recipe for a neglected marketing
strategy, which will actively turn customers
away from your business instead of
generating more sales.
What’s appropriate is up to you – I know of
jewellers who enjoy success spending
50 per cent of their advertising budget on
digital initiatives. I know of other jewellers
who spend up to 80 per cent, as they see the
value it offers their business.
Does this seem like a lot to handle? It’s
easy to feel overwhelmed; however, digital
marketing is a fact of life in the jewellery
industry in 2023.
In order to alleviate any concern you have
about executing your digital marketing
strategy, remember that having a solid
strategy and planning ahead are the best
ways to not only provide ease of mind –
they’ll also ensure success.
SHANE O'NEILL is vice president of
Fruchtman Marketing, a consultancy
company specialising in jewellery. Learn
More:: fructman.com
June 2023 | 47

My Bench
David Stephenson
Holloway Diamonds, Brighton VIC
Age 55 • Years in Trade 30 • Training Diploma in Gemmology and completed apprenticeship. • Other qualifications Apprentice at Holloway Diamonds.
VERSATILE STYLE
18-carat white gold and yellow gold vine ring, inspired by
grape vines, with fully and half bezel set diamonds. Side
rails are in 18-carat yellow gold. Style can also be done
with white gold rails and yellow gold vines to fit around
coloured gemstones. A great style that can incorporate
a selection of different sized gemstones a customer may
have when remodelling several pieces.
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Pink diamonds.
4FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat yellow gold.
4FAVOURITE TOOL Saw frame.
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Pneumatic hammer
handpiece.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB Satisfying customers.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB Breaking gemstones or
melting pieces.
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Divide the biggest jobs
into small challenges.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Enjoy what you do.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
Polishing dust and the constant sitting for your back.
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE I get a sense of
achievement completing a piece that a customer is
happy with. There is always a sense of satisfaction
that comes with completing quality jewellery.
48 | June 2023

OPINION
Soapbox
Are you working to live or living to work?
The jewellery industry is notoriously dominated by those who prioritise working long
hours over a healthy work-life balance. MADELINE DUFFY encourages you to step back
and consider the bigger picture.
I’m sure you’ll agree when I say that
the jewellery industry is dominated by
‘workaholics’ – those who are driven
by a compulsion to work beyond what’s
reasonably expected despite the
potential for negative consequences.
If that description fits your approach to
business, allow me to ask you a simple
question - what are you working so hard for?
Take a moment to really think about that
question before you read on. Are you
working hard to spend more quality time
with your partner or your children?
Do you work long hours so that you can
enjoy luxuries such as a bigger home, a
fancier car, or perhaps an overseas holiday?
Now ask yourself this question – are you
accomplishing these goals? Sadly, I can
guarantee many people will say no. We
know according to various studies that
stress causes major health concerns,
including serious heart problems,
increased depression, and fertility issues.
Did you know that 74 per cent of Australians
feel that stress impacts their physical
health? One study in the US suggests that 80
per cent of workplace accidents are due to
stress. It’s not too late to turn it around!
There are a number of solutions worthy of
consideration for the dedicated business
owner and jeweller, including defining your
values, improving your organisation, and
reviewing your services.
Don’t be a pushover
If you think you have an unhealthy balance
between your professional and personal
life, take the time to review your values.
Many jewellers tend to fall into the habit of
playing the role of the dreaded ‘yes man’
when it comes to accepting every single job,
causing our stress levels to skyrocket.
dedication to producing quality products,
and practicing sustainable and ethical trade.
Once you have figured out your core values,
each decision you make should align with
them. If you’re presented with a job that
doesn’t align with your values, you can
confidently say no without feeling guilty.
Many jewellers accept every job they’re
presented with out of the fear that
opportunities will one day ‘dry up’.
However, many customers are naturally
drawn to businesses that reflect their values
– so when you compromise your own values,
you may well be costing your business
further down the line. Values are important
because they allow us to develop, both in a
personal and professional sense, and create
a future we want to experience.
Get organised
If you speed through each day doing as
much as possible, you’ll never leave the
bench and you’ll feel overwhelmed. An
easy way to improve your organisation is
to schedule your time in a diary. Assign
yourself a realistic number of tasks that you
can get done each day, leaving wiggle room
for unexpected urgent jobs, and stick to it.
At the beginning of each work day, review
your tasks and schedule them in your
diary. If you miss one, reschedule it. This
practice has dramatically reduced the
stress in my business. It will stop you
from promising too many things on one day,
discourages you from working late, and
prevents you from letting customers down
by missing a deadline.
When you can confidently tell your staff
“no I am fully booked for today, it will
need to wait” they will respect you for it.
Organisation is my number one method for
reducing stress.
Take a moment
to really think
about that
question before
you read on. Are
you working hard
to spend more
quality time with
your partner or
your children?
children or heaven forbid, go on a date with
your significant other!
Review your services
My final insight is to step back and look at
what services you offer. Once you get in the
habit of keeping a diary, you’ll quickly see
where you are working ‘over capacity’.
In my business, I was so overwhelmed
with the volume of repairs, that the more
profitable jobs such as engagement rings
were getting pushed to the side.
The solution was to review my financials
and see if it was viable to continue operating
in this manner. I discovered I was making
hardly any money on repairs compared to
the other services I offer, and it hadn’t been
worth my time.
Now, I outsource all repairs so that I have
more time to create new collections and
focus on my high-end customers. My
recommendation is that you take some time
to refine your services and develop a strong
understanding of where your time and
energy is best spent. Making this change in
my business has freed up time and allowed
me to be more creative and enjoy my work.
As a flow-on effect, I also have a better
work-life balance now because I have more
time for the things I enjoy. I am happy to
admit I am still learning every day, through
trial and error. One of my values is ‘passion’
and without a healthy work-life balance, the
passion for work quickly disappears.
It’s a fact that many of the world’s best
jewellery designers and business owners
work very long and grueling hours. While
the end result is often remarkable, it’s an
approach that can also lead to misery.
Life isn’t all about work! Hopefully, my
experiences can help you start working to
live, instead of living to work.
My recommendation is that you write down
your top three values in your business and in
your personal life.
Examples of values in the jewellery
business can be prioritising relationships
with customers and establishing trust, a
The added bonus of scheduling your day in
this way is that you can leave work each day
comfortable in the understanding that you’re
on the right track!
Sticking with this approach will give you
more time to spend at home with your
Name: Madeline Duffy
Business: Madeline’s Jewellery By Design
Position: CEO and Jeweller
Location: Bunbury, Victoria
Years in the industry: 7
50 | June 2023

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