Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 1

Edition 1 - November 2018
Modern
sewing
starts here...
Focus
on fabrics
The latest
fabrics to use
this season
PERFECTLY
PIECED
How to use fussy cutting in
your patchwork designs
Pick of the
PATTERNS
Stylish sewing has
never been so easy
KNIT
know-how
What you need to
know to sew with
knits and jerseys
The wide-leg trousers featured on the front cover are made using
Prima Flora Calma knit fabric from AGF’s Virtuosa by Bari J.
18
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Editor’s Letter
Hello
Welcome to our first edition of our mini magazine for all those who love textiles
and sewing, which we will be publishing every two months. We’ll keep you posted
of exciting new and contemporary product launches including sewing patterns and
fabric, as well as popular techniques that we know you’ll want to hear about.
To make sure you don’t miss the next edition – subscribe free here.
Happy sewing!
WIN WIN WIN!
For a chance to win one of
three fabulous Art Gallery
Fabrics ColorMaster boxes or
bundles we have to giveaway
– just click here to enter.
Closing date is 31 st
December 2018
Hantex
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Products you’re going to love….
Rose Gold notions from Prym
Rose gold is the must-have subtle
metallic look for this season. Prym
has brought out a range of notions
including zip pulls, elastic tape,
snap fasteners, cord stops for
sweatshirts and bag findings to
add to your next sewing project.
To view the comprehensive range –
click here
Scanfil organic thread
This new multi-purpose sewing thread
comes in 34 colours. Spun in Holland, this
thread is a blend of the longest organic
fibres making it smooth and strong.
It’s suitable for seams, overlocking,
topstitching, and embroidery, and won’t
shrink or bleed with washing.
To find out more –
click here
ColorMaster from
Art Gallery Fabrics
Art Gallery Fabrics (AGF) has just
extended their range of boxes and
bundles. With Christmas not so far
away, these are an ideal gift as well
as a smart way to buy fabric for
everyday projects. AGF has taken
some of its best prints to create
this selection of colour-coordinated
and themed fabrics from its
signature cotton.
To view the full range –
click here
The measure of it
Make your measuring fun – these
retractable tape measures with
crocheted animal designs include
this cute little owl shown here.
They make great presents for
sewing friends and there are 9
designs to choose from.
To see the full range available –
click here
#modernsewingstartshere

Trendsetter
Splash the colour
with 7 seasonal shades
Go for warm bold colours this season including
Fuchsia pink, beige, sand and burnt orange, rust and
olive green (shown here).
How to mix and match colour, fabric and
patterns to sew the newest trends
A sense of style
Here’s 3 looks that you’re going
to want to make this autumn:
Pole position for pattern
3 key styles to embrace - large floral prints on a dark background, geo
and graphic designs and bold stripes.
1
Lenox Shirtdress
from Cashmerette
Patterns
Aqua Marine
stripe jersey from
Modelo Fabrics
3
2
Decadence designed by
Katarina Roccella for AGF
Maureen Cracknell’s
Autumn Vibes collection
for AGF
Classic shirt styling
A shirtdress can be a versatile part of
any wardrobe. The perfect shirtdress
can take you from work to parties.
Make in the latest big floral prints for
a bold statement or in one of the ontrend
solid colours.
Earn your stripes
No wardrobe is complete without
showing its stripes. Elevate your
‘tee’ style in the Lodo knit dress from
True Bias. With its subtle cocoon shape,
it’s perfect to sew in new multicoloured
stripes!
From left to right: Solid knits from AGF – Strawberry,
Amaranth, Sahara and and Burnt Orange
Love layering
Whip up an Aurelia Cardigan for a go-to
layering piece in the latest colours. This
flattering cardigan from Sew Liberated is
made with a soft knit. Pair it with a longsleeve
T-shirt, throw it over a camisole or
cinch it with a belt.

1
Ogden Cami
True Bias
This blouse is perfect for wearing on its own or as an
essential layering piece to wear with blazers, kimonos
and cardigans.
Matcha Top
Sew Liberated
This pattern features a one-of-a-kind shoulder construction,
mandarin-inspired neckline, and can be made with or without
sleeves. Sew in a cool cotton ikat, double gauze, rayon, silk
crepe-de-chine, charmeuse and linen with a good drape.
2
Capsule
wardrobe
3
Alberta Street Pencil Skirt
Sew House Seven
This unlined skirt is a classic slim
fitting silhouette and sits just below
the knee. Make with the oversized
angled patch pockets for a more
casual style.
5 sewing patterns to make a
capsule wardrobe work for you
Jenny Trousers
Closet Case Patterns
This pattern may be the perfect
What is a capsule
wide-legged trouser for your
a wardrobe?
capsule wardrobe and is ideal
for wearing to work every day in
A capsule wardrobe is a set of basic garments that you can neutral colours or for a touch of
rely on through the season, and consists of go-to garments glamour make in gorgeous velvet
that can be dressed up or down for any occasion.
or French jacquard shown here.
5 5
a tips capsule to help wardrobe:
you sew
1. Think about your lifestyle and what clothes you already
have in your wardrobe that you currently wear a lot.
2. Select patterns that are fairly simple in design but have
lots of sleeve, length and neckline options.
3. Choose three or four colours that complement each
other to make all these wardrobe basics in.
4. When choosing fabrics make sure they are easy to wash
but also hardwearing.
4
5. Ask yourself the question – does the colourway work
well with the other garments in my capsule wardrobe?
Whatever you sew, make sure it pairs with at least 3 or 4
garments already in your wardrobe.
Ulysses Trench
Victory Patterns
This relaxed trench mixes class styling such
as epaulettes with modern draped elements
such as a shawl collar. It’s perfect for when all
that’s needed is lightweight coat.

1
Focus On
Fabrics
Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics
Rayon in a class
of its own
Jessica Jones has designed
a new rayon for Cloud 9 called
Business Class, which is just a little
heavier than you might expect from
a rayon fabric, but more surprising is,
how soft it is to the touch. It comes in
137cm wide, which is excellent
for everything from trousers and
dresses to tops and jackets.
To take a closer look at the fabrics
– click here
Softly Subtle
This organic Oeko-Tex
brushed back French Terry
from Modelo Fabrics is an
exceptional quality fabric that
combines the softness of jersey with
the everyday practicality of a sweatshirt
fabric. There’s a hint of Lycra, which
makes sure it retains its shape, and lasts
longer meaning lower environmental
impact. It comes in a wide range of
subtle soft colours with designs that
look great for all occasions.
To take a look at the full collection
– click here
3 4
2
Centre stage
Created by Bari J for Art Gallery Fabrics
inspired by her days working in the theatre
– Virtuosa is a beautiful fabric collection
of bold floral prints, dispersed with
harmonious geometrics. There are two
distinct colour palettes – the mysterious
romantic and the warmhearted
extrovert, and come in
knits/rayons as well as cotton.
To see more from the
collection – click here
Wearing well
This 100 per cent organic barkcloth
cotton is a soft and thick. The
Homestyle collection designed by
Eloise Renouf for Cloud9 features
autumnal colours and geo-designs,
and is superb for bags, home décor
and hardwearing garments such
as jackets.
To view more colourways for
this collection – click here
5
Wish you
were here
Memories from an adventure to Hawaii
with his daughter Helena, guided Matthew
Bordeaux’s (AKA Mister Domestic) creation of
the whimsical and vibrant Aura fabric collection
from Art Gallery Fabrics. The visuals and feel
of this island are captured in colour palettes
inspired by swimming with dolphins, and ‘out
of this world’ sunsets. The collection features
knits, rayons and cottons.
For more information – click here
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Lets talk
technical
Julie Bonnar sewing expert and editor of The Pattern Pages
discusses ways to make sewing with stretch fabrics easier
Choosing a fabric
The weight of stretch fabric
can vary from 114-340gms
(lightweight to heavy).
Anything under 225gms is
usually quite see-through
plus lighter weight knits
are also harder to sew and
stretch easily. Make sure you
read your sewing pattern
before buying the fabric. A
pattern envelope will indicate
what type of stretch fabric
you will require.
The small percentage of
Lycra/Spandex within the
fabric gives it its recovery
with means it holds its shape
better. There are two types
of knits when it comes to
stretch – those with twoway
stretch and those with
four-way stretch. Two-way
stretch fabrics stretch in one
direction either lengthwise
or crosswise, while four-way
stretch fabrics stretch in two
directions, crosswise, as well
as lengthwise and can stretch
sideways as well as along
the selvedge.
How to find the stretch
Take a look at the knits/
jerseys available from Art
Gallery Fabrics and Modelo
Fabrics here.
Pattern placement and
cutting stretch fabrics
Directional stretch
Line up the pattern pieces on
your fabric so the direction of
greatest stretch goes across
the body rather than up
and down.
Use a rotary cutter
and mat
Use a rotary cutter and
cutting mat instead of
Fold the fabric on the crosswise grain and mark a 4in
section on the fold.
Keep a ruler along the folded edge and mark where
the fabric lies naturally.
Gently pull the fabric to see how far it will stretch. This
is usually between 4½in - 6in and the further it stretches
the more flexible it is.
scissors – you’ll get a more
accurate cut.
Sewing with knits
The right stitch
Test your stitch on a fabric
scrap. A zigzag stitch is
best as it allows the stitch
to stretch with the fabric.
Use a 1.5mm width stitch
where the garment needs
additonal stretchiness such
as necklines, hems and
horizontal seams.
The correct needle
A ballpoint (stretch) needle
has a slightly rounded tip that
eliminates snagging and won’t
weaken the elastic fibres.
The perfect presser foot
Buying a walking foot is
a good investment. The
walking foot helps fabric
layers from shifting and walks
over the fabric as you sew.
The best seams
Consider using a stay or
seam tape within the seam
to keep them from stretching
out of shape. Vlieseline’s
lightweight fusible woven
tape is bias cut and is
bi-elastic, which is perfect for
creating seams in soft stretch
fabrics such as jersey, and
preventing your fabrics from
fraying. Use an extension
table for your sewing
machine to keep the fabric
flat and avoid letting it hang
down when sewing.
Hem finishes
As knits don’t fray, there’s no
need to hem but sometimes
the raw edges can roll up.
For knits that are more prone
to this, finish raw edges with
a topstitched hem and twin
needle or try using binding
strips cut from your stretch
fabric to encase the raw
edges of your garment.
TIP:
Always take your time when sewing knits. With the needle down,
you should stop sewing regularly to re-align the fabric.

Left to right: canvas,
bark cloth and denim.
Choosing fabrics
for bag making
Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, bag designer, discusses
what lifts your bag creation from the dreaded
‘homemade’ to the very coveted ‘handmade’
Bag making is easier than ever before with access to fabric, interfacing and hardware
the likes of which our grandmother’s generation could have only dreamed. You could
argue that you can make a bag from any fabric at all. What gives your creation a
more professional finish is the fabric choices you make and some fabrics yield better
results than others.
Here’s some considerations that will give you great results:
Buy the best that you can afford Choose recycled fabric very carefully
Stick to natural fibres wherever possible Think about how you will use the bag
BUYING THE BEST FABRIC
When buying a branded fabric, you have some quality guarantees. Buying
inexpensive fabric with uncertain pedigree might seem tempting but it must wash
and wear well. Making a bag is a lot of work, and it’s super disappointing if it’s
not functional. A bag should be fully washable, useable and designed for the job.
Heavier fabrics look and sew better, and your sewing machine will generally prefer to
have thicker fabrics to work with.
CHOOSING TO
RECYCLE FABRICS
Charity shops can be a gold mine if
you’re going down the recycled route
but choose your fabrics carefully. Look
for curtain and light furnishing fabrics
as well as leather, denim and tweed.
Always go for a washable fabric option
if you can and give the item a quick
sniff test. Although charity shops are
very aware of odours, some can’t be
completely eliminated from fabrics.
THE BAG’S PURPOSE
Finally, what is the bag going to
be used for? Crepe de chine may
be gorgeous in a pleated evening
clutch but absolutely useless for little
Jimmy’s rugby kit bag – an extreme
example but important to consider.
A bag must be beautiful but it must
also be practical. Natural fibres take
stitching well and they’re strong –
you can use the pockets and open
the zips. They can be washed and
the straps will take some weight.
Anything else is potentially a
disappointing waste of time.
To see the full range
of bag patterns –
click here
This fantastic Summer tote makes a really useful yet stylish tote and features
Cloud9 Fabrics’ Whitehaven Gold Canvas.
To download this bag pattern free – click here.
GO FOR NATURAL!
If you don’t have any ethical concerns, leather is always
better than vinyl. It’s easier to sew, will last longer, and
look better with age. It’s the same for fabrics – choose
cotton and denim in favour of polyester and mixes. They’re
stronger and more durable and combine to make a pretty
and practical bag.

Pick of the
PATTERNS
Sewing pattern releases to sew
this season
Asymmetrical shaping is a must!
The Floreat pattern from
Megan Nielsen features a
beautiful irregular hem on
the dress and blouse, which
can be made from woven or
knit fabrics, and features clean
lines, facings options, inseam
pockets, as well as sleeve and
hem length choices.
The other sewing patterns
within Megan Nielsen’s new
collection include the Jarrah
Sweater, Dawn Jeans and Wattle Skirt. To find out more
about the new mini collection of patterns – click here
Coco classic jacket now in print
The Coco Jacket is one of
Sew Over It’s best-loved PDF
patterns, and now it’s available
as a printed pattern. It comes
with a beautiful newly designed
cover and fully illustrated
booklet. The Coco was inspired
by the classic Chanel boucle
tweed jacket, and is stylish and
flattering and guaranteed to
never go out of style so will be
a key piece in your wardrobe for
years to come.
To view this pattern from Sew
Over it – click here
It’s all in the detail
This semi-fitted blouse looks
stunning sewn with contrasting
fabrics or with lace or sheer fabric
for the inset stripe. The pattern
eliminates the shoulder seam so
the sleeves are easy to sew, and
the inset panel forms a pretty
chevron over the bracelet-length
flounce sleeves. The back features
a keyhole button-and-loop
closure, and there are separate
pieces for A/B, C, and D bust
cups to get the best fit.
To look at this pattern and other
new releases from the pattern
label Liesl & Co – click here
18
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Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter
by fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Perfectly
pieced
Fussy cutting isn’t a new phenomenon to the quilting world – Naomi Clarke
textile specialist explains how to incorporate this technique into your
patchwork designs
What is fussy cutting?
Fussy cutting refers to taking
a specific motif or pattern
on a fabric and cutting it
in a way that highlights it
as opposed to cutting the
fabric adhoc. There are many
ways to fussy cut including
selecting a whole motif
(such as a flower) so that it’s
centrally placed within your
patchwork, pattern matching
a motif so that when your
patchwork comes together
the original motif has been
re-created in a way that flows
from one shape to the next,
or choosing to only fussy cut
a section of a motif (so the
original motif is no longer
distinguishable) in order to
create a whole new design.
Can it work for
modern patchworkers?
Fussy cutting is not a new
patchworking technique, and
I’ve recently been fortunate
enough to see some fussy
cutting patchwork pieces
from the 1800s within
the collections of two UK
museums. So what has
made fussy cutting remain a
popular patchwork technique
for more than 200 years?
Why, when fussy cutting
can prevent you from being
economical with your fabric,
and is it a technique that’s
worth mastering?
Well, the answer lies in the
visuals! The development
of clear acrylic templates
with grid lines and seam
allowances to help when
cutting, the wide variety
of templates (both paper
and acrylic) available, plus
the everlasting inspiration
from new Art Gallery Fabrics
collections and the high
thread count within these
collections make English
Paper Piecing so much easier.
This has opened up a whole
new world of fussy cutting
which enables stitchers to
explore, enjoy, create and
play like never before.
Here’s how to make it
work for you
Let me show you how it can
work with a shape that never
fails to inspire - the six-point
diamond. By placing the
paper piece acrylic template
onto the Art Gallery Fabrics
fabric, I’m able to select
The fabric used here comes from the
Little Clementine Fabric collection
from AGF
which part of the motif I want
to highlight. In this case, I
wanted to focus on placing
the flower centrally within
my diamond with the stem
flowing towards the centre.
Working from the fabric’s
right side allows you to
line the motif up within
the acrylic template before
using the rotary cutter for
the precision cut. While
time consuming, this helps
to ensure you maintain the
precise placement of the
flower centrally within the
final shape.
Go on to repeat this six
times to create each of
the points for my six-point
diamond star. But, before
sewing them together,
it’s important to play with
placement. Rotating the
diamonds by 180° (so that
the flower head is nearest
to the centre as opposed
to the stem) provides a
whole new effect to the
final star. To finish off these
stars, use the paper piece
acrylic template to fussy-cut
an Art Gallery Fabrics lined
print making sure that all
the lines are travelling in the
same direction. When placed
around the star to create an
almost ‘framed’ effect!
Then, the choice is up to
the maker as to what to do
next! They can be appliquéd
onto a project such as a tote
bag, pouch or needlecase, or
you can continue making the
stars to create a cushion or
even a quilt! The possibilities
are endless!
For more paper piecing ideas – click here