Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 2

Modern
sewing
starts here...
Edition 2 - January 2019
The ultimate
Winter warmer
Why you should consider making
a coat as an investment
Focus
on fabrics
Feast your eyes
on the latest
fabrics
IMPROV
QUILTING
How to have more
control over your
patchwork designs
PAT BRAVO
Celebrates 40
collections for
Art Gallery Fabrics
Image features Pat Bravo’s new Legendary fabric collection
18
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk

Editor’s Letter
Hello
We hope you enjoyed the first edition of Modern Sewing Starts Here. With lots of
exciting products being released, our mini magazine is the perfect way to keep
you in the loop. This time, we talk about the latest craze ‘improv quilting’ where
stitchers have more control over their designs, and explain why making a coat is a
real investment for dressmakers, plus news about the latest sewing patterns and
trends for the forthcoming months.
Happy sewing!
WIN WIN WIN!
For chance to win one of
three sets of the latest
Elizabeth Hartman quilt
patterns mentioned below.
Closing date is
20 th February 2019.
Click here to enter
Hantex
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
Products you’re going to love….
Mix and match
The Matchmade fabric collection has been
meticulously curated to coordinate with all of
Pat Bravo’s existing collections. The new line of
blenders is a match made in maker’s heaven,
and perfect for patchworking. Use the fabrics
by themselves to make colourful mini quilts,
table runners or combine to make beautiful
geometric designs.
To view all the fabric swatches in the range -
Click here
Quirky quilts
Patchwork and quilters
will love the three new
designs from Elizabath
Hartman – Beehive,
Norm & Nanette and
Cuckoo. These quilt
patterns use conventional
patchwork techniques but
need no templates
or paper piecing.
To find out more about
these designs – click here
Something to look forward to…..
Surface and space designer, Alison Glass will be
launching her new range of stationery and enamel
pins featuring her lovely designs.
The joy of 40 collections
Legendary is
a bohemian
fabric collection
from Pat Bravo.
Passionate
persistence and
an infinite love
for design has led
Pat to design 40
collections over
the past 14 years.
Legendary tells the story of her bestselling
designs, and brings them together
harmoniously through what is Pat’s
signature – an exquisite use of colour.
To view the colourful range – click here
Designed to complement
Chef’s Garden brings all the best
from the garden with a culinary
theme while Emma’s Kitchen
fuses classic kitchen themes with
a contemporary look and feel. Both ranges from
Haerae are printed on GOT’s certified organic
base cloth, which is better for the environment
and are great for making gifts and accessories.
Click on the collection name to find out more –
Chef’s Garden and Emma’s Kitchen
#modernsewingstartshere

Pick of the
PATTERNS
New sewing pattern releases to fill your
wardrobe this season
Winter wovens
The Salida is a skirt with two options, and perfect for working
with medium-weight woven fabrics such as corduroy, denim,
twill, linen and chambray. This skirt from True Bias features
a panelled skirt, soft V-shaped yoke, high waist, and front
zipper fly.
To view this pattern and others from True Bias – click here
Made for curves
This iconic T-shirt dress in midi or tunic
length is designed for curves and has
an optional waist tie and modern split
hem detail. The Pembroke Dress/Tunic
has three neckline options – scoop,
jewel, or turtleneck – and cuffed or
hemmed sleeve. Whether made up in a
lightweight ponte or flirty floral jersey –
there’s nothing basic about this pattern.
To find out more about Cashmerette
patterns – click here
Traditional styling
The Nehalem is based on the
traditional Thai trouser worn by
fishermen. Sew House Seven has
slimmed down and graded the design
to fit better where the back rise has
a bit of a curve for a more fitted and
stylish back view. This sewing pattern is
a one-size-fits-all, baggy, loose-fitting
trouser that’s wrapped and tied to fit.
The pattern also includes a skirt with
all the same design traits to make
for an easy-to-wear piece. Both have
oversized patch pockets and a wide
waistband.
For the full range of Sew House
Seven patterns – click here
Forties fashion
This dress comes from the ’40s when square shoulders, narrow hips, and skirts that ended
just below the knee were the height of fashion. Fabric rationing lead to the use of darts,
pleats, tucks, and other fabric manipulation to add interest to garments but used less
fabric. The Lindy Dress from Folkwear has an interesting bodice construction, shoulder and
waist pleats, darts, and a shawl-collar. Elbow-length sleeves with cuffs make this all yearround
dress, and the midi dress is a style that we’ll be seeing more of this year.
To view more Folkwear vintage styled patterns – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by
fabric, garment, brand or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Top trends for
2019
revealed
Sewing your own clothes is incredibly powerful. You can incorporate current
trends into your own style making a garment completely unique. Brazilianborn
sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares some of the trends on the rise
Luxury in lace
A strong up-and-coming trend for spring is to wear
luxurious fabrics like lace. This season, lace will
loose its conservative connotation and has been
deconstructed by cool brands. One tip when sewing with
lace is to avoid backstitching the seams so remember to
leave enough of a thread tail to tie off.
Modelo
Fabrics
lace
Waterproofs
You can never be too prepared for
unpredictable weather. Parkas and
Trench coat can be found in many
styles. Consider using a flat-felled seam
to create a light leak-proof seam, and
to make sure it’s truly water-tight you
can add a seam sealant.
Elegant shorts
The wide-legged trend has finally
moved to shorts, and are far less
intimidating to wear. Choose a
lightweight wool fabric for a winter
version or chambray for summer. Wear
it with a short, fitted leather jacket, and
you can accentuate your waistline by
half tucking your shirt in.
Oversize hats
Oversized accessories are set to
be huge news this year, so start
making yours now. Go for the
traditional bucket shape or a wide
brimmed sunhat. I personally love
an exaggerated brim as besides the
striking silhouette, it protects my
skin from the sun.
Flint Shorts by
Megan Nielsen
Showerproof
quilted fabrics
Craftwork
Folk elements are never far from the
catwalk from patchwork, crochet,
weaves and embellishments. This
gives makers the
perfect opportunity to
incorporate other craft
skills into dressmaking.
Join the high-end
artisanal trend by adding
trims and fringe to
something you’ve made
before or start fresh.
Crochet Edge
Poplin bias tape
Kelly Anorak
– Closet
Case Files

Lets talk
technical
Julie Bonnar explains why making a custom coat is an investment
but also a rewarding make
“Making your own coat is probably one of the most
challenging things you can make, and there are quite a
lot of things to consider before you start sewing.”
The Clare Coat from
Closet Case Patterns is a
stylish cool-weather staple
featuring raglan sleeves
and an unstructured A-line
silhouette. It’s a great
introduction to coat making.
To view this pattern
– click here
Style
This season the key trends
include shearlings, sheepskin
and faux fur, as well as oversized,
edge-to-edge coats
and capes. Practical styles
like the Trench coat are
popular and classic designs
have been jazzed up with
the addition of striking
embellishments.
Shape
But how do you go about
choosing a design that will
not only suit you but will be
practical for years to come?
Beginners might want to opt
to make a loose-fit coat that
doesn’t involve a lot of fitting.
This style is great for the
weekend, easy to layer up and
wear with bulky knitwear.
However, a slightly fitted
coat (if made well) is perfect
for wearing to work or on
special occasions.
Fabric
As a rule, a coat will last
much longer if it is made
with good quality fabric. It’s
also less likely to suffer from
pilling and sagging. Always
buy the best fabric you can
afford to make sure the
quality is there to start. Wool
blends are more durable but
there’s nowhere to hide when
sewing with plain colours,
and every mistake shows.
Natural fibres are easier to
work with and press nicely.
Modelo Fabrics has
released a practical doublesided
wool style coat fabric.
It’s machine washable and
comes in some wonderful
colours including rust, old
gold, red, navy, denim and
olive green. To view the full
range – click here
Colour
Dark colours are more
practical and don’t show wear
and tear or the dirt. However
pastel or vibrant colours
can look stunning and will
become a statement piece in
your wardrobe.
Neutrals are timeless, and
beige is no longer considered
a safe option as there are
many shades to choose from
including camel, grey, ivory
and taupe.
Whatever colour you
choose, bear in mind that this
coat will be something you’ll
want to wear for a long time
so be sure you truly love it.
The little details
Linings
Add a splash of colour with
a vibrant contrasting lining.
Linings are a must on an
investment coat and help
the coat retain its shape
and structure.
Fastenings
Add over-sized buttons, make
your own fabric-covered
buttons or choose something
different like toggles, large
press-studs or frog closures
for a one-of-a-kind look.
Making tips
Always obtain a fabric sample, and take your time choosing the fabric.
Pin the tissue to yourself to make sure the fit is perfect.
Think ahead every step before machine stitching. I would recommend you tack/baste
every seam allowance first especially if it’s an expensive fabric.
Getting the hemline right can make or break a coat. It’s worth considering hand stitching
the hemline to get an invisible finish, and press well.
For a professional finish, make sure you use under-stitch and edge stitching.
Leftover fabric
Make a matching corsage or
handbag with leftover fabric.
Contrasting details
Why not use a different fabric
such as suede or faux leather
for lapels, pockets, belts and
collars or add a pretty bias
binding around the collar.

Focus On
Fabrics
Feast your eyes on the latest fabrics
1
Soft and
2
Nicky Velour from Modelo Fabrics
is the most amazingly plush
knit fabric, and is perfect for
garments where softness
and warmth is key. The cotton
(40%),polyester (40%) and nylon
(20%) blend gives durability but without
sacrificing comfort. Use to make winter
tops, dresses, as well as kidswear. You can also
use it for backing quilts for that super cosy feeling.
To take a closer look at these fabrics – click here
3
A coat of
many colours
Modelo Fabrics has just
brought out a versatile
double-sided, wool style coat
fabric in this season’s colours
including rust, old gold and olive
green. It’s polyester/viscose blend makes
it machine washable, practical and good
value. It’s also long lasting, which coupled
with the fact that handmade garments
are treasured makes means reduced
environmental impact too.
To see more of the fabulous colourways
within the range – click here
Classic delights
Inspired by the classical music
of Ludwig van Beethoven, the
Sonata fabric collection features
playful window boxes, symphony
instruments and edelweiss blooms,
Amy Sinibaldi created her very own ‘Ode
to Joy’ with a romantic palette of imperial blue,
magenta, vermillion and dusty pinks to reflects
her interpretation of the sonatas, concertos and
symphonies. The range also features knits and rayons.
To view all the colour combinations from this
Art Gallery Fabrics collection – click here
At peace
with nature
4
The new Cloud9 Underwood Stories
collection illustrates a beautiful early morning
walk in the woods, when the newly damp air is
greeted by waves of dancing mushroom blooms
and graceful garden snails. It has been designed
by Esther Nariyoshi and named after the small
wonders under the timber trees. It’s 100%
organic cotton and the perfect weight for
making quilts and garments.
To view more Underwood
Stories designs – click here
5
Off the grid
Grid by Katarina Roccella is one of the latest
fabric collections from Art Gallery Fabrics,
and features her distinctive artistic style from
painted intricate florals, textures in tones of
ultraviolet, mist, ochre, and black and white
with wing scales in butterflies to city streets
and tiny image pixels. The range also features
knits and rayons.
For more information – click here
18
www.hantex.co.uk

The joy of
collections
Pat Bravo, founder of Art Gallery Fabrics explains why she’s in it for the long
haul when it comes to creating beautiful fabrics
But how did it all
begin? Pat Bravo
started sewing at the
age of 9 years old
when like most of
us she sat down at
her mother’s sewing
machine and by 13
years old of age, she
was hooked. She
joined a sewing school
in her native Buenos
Aires in Argentina
where she learned
everything there was
to know about fabrics,
dressmaking and
patterns. At college,
she decided to study law but soon realised this wasn’t for her
and dropped out and started painting classes, and met her
husband Walter. In 1989, the couple moved to the US where
they found everything was so different from culture to the
food. “At this time, I had no energy for the things that I loved
to do but all that changed when Walter bought me my first
sewing machine,” says Pat.
It was during this time that Pat fell in love with quilting and
learned all she could about traditional quilting techniques.
“My tastes changed and started to love art quilts especially
landscapes – abstract was my passion but it was so hard to
find the colour variations you need; so it
was then I decided to paint my own
fabrics and not long after Walter
and I started Art Gallery Fabrics,”
Pat told us.
Fast-forward the clock 14 years
and Pat has just launched her
40th collection – Legendary,
and her passion and
excitement for creating fabric
has never waned. “I feel very
Passionate persistence and an infinite
love for design has led Pat Bravo to design
40 collections over the past 14 years. The
newly released Legendary fabric collection
tells the story of her best-selling designs,
and brings them together harmoniously
through what is Pat’s signature
an exquisite use of colour.
proud. Legendary celebrates this achievement with a special
selection of 24 fabrics taken from my most popular designs.
It’s so lovely to see so many of the older designs being
reprinted,” Pat explains. The Legendary fabric collection has
a bohemian flavour and is split into two colourways – Bold
Dreams and Boho Soul. There are also three knit and two
rayon options to choose from. The colours make the designs
in this collection very versatile and ideal for dressmaking,
accessories, home décor and quilting.
Pat explains that her inspiration mainly comes from fashion
as it allows her to constantly evolve. Recently she has been
drawn towards the ‘arts and crafts movement’, which is all
about the handmade process and very dear to her.
What’s next for Pat and Art Gallery Fabrics? “I’m working
on perhaps the most important collection of my life. It’s
dedicated to the memory of my mom and will bear her name.
It has a lot of the designs she adored. I’m putting my heart
and soul into this collection so I hope people will love it as
much as I do.
To find out more about Pat Bravo’s Legendary fabric
collection – click here.

Improv
Quilting
Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares how to embrace the
freedom that comes with a more organic approach to quilting and ‘letting go’
of the traditional rules!
Mismatched points, irregular
widths of fabric and total
disregard of measurements
are enough to strike fear
into many a quilter’s heart.
But improvisational quilting,
better known as ‘improv
quilting’ can be a thing of
beauty and a liberating
process too. It’s my belief
in life, as well as in quilting,
that you should learn the
rules first before you break
them. Precision quilting and
knowledge of traditional
blocks are without doubt
important and valuable skills
to learn, and the majority of
the quilts I’ve made conform
to this, but now that I know
these ‘rules’ I sometimes
like to have fun with Improv,
and see where the creative
process takes me.
What are the
differences?
One of the main differences
between improv quilting and
traditional blocks is
the process.
When you piece a traditional
block, you plan your fabrics
and colours in advance and
have a fairly good idea what
the block is going to look
like before you’ve stitched
it. With improv quilting the
process is more organic
making design decisions
and fabric choices, adding
in whatever feels ‘right’ or
pleases the eye as you go
along. Sometimes it might be
a case of choosing the fabric
that’s nearest to you!
How to get started
But if working this way seems
a little daunting, why not
use a traditional block as a
starting point and go from
there. A log cabin block is a
good one to start with and a
great opportunity for some
fussy cutting too. Start with
an irregular square (yes you
can use a ruler and rotary
cutter, but don’t do any
measuring!) and slowly add
strips around the square as
you would for a traditional
log cabin block. But rather
than trimming them
straight, vary the
widths within the
strip, make
“The great thing about Improv is there really
are no rules. So I really encourage you to have
a play, do what works for you, work organically
and most of all have some fun with fabric!”
them get wider or narrower
– just have a play! When adlibbing,
always make a block
a good few inches larger than
you need, and then trim it
down to size. For example,
if you’re making 12in blocks
(as I have) make it up to 14in
and then trim the block down
accurately to 12½in.
I’ve worked in a similar
way for the chevron block –
adding irregular sized strips
and choosing my fabrics as I
go along, without planning
too much at the outset.
I’ve then trimmed up each
half into an accurate 6½in
x 12½in rectangles before
stitching them together to
create a 12½in block.
In the final block, I have
made four smaller blocks,
two with a central motif
and two by stitching strips
together and trimming down
to size, before joining them
all together.
If you want to maintain
some regularity within your
work, why not make a series
of improv blocks, and sash
them in a neutral colour and
give them a border to create
some structure and order.
It can be useful to have a
resting place for the eyes
amidst all that irregularity.
The fabrics used are from the ColourMaster
Designer curated collection by Amy
Sinibaldi for Art Gallery Fabrics

Trendsetter
How to sew the latest bag trends incorporating
this year’s colour of the year from Pantone
Coral is the
colour for 2019
Living Coral (16-1546) is Pantone’s
colour of the year. This vibrant
energetic nurturing shade is perfect for
a ‘stand out from the crowd’ bag.
Bags of style
CRUSH ON FABRIC
Barkcloth
Homestyle
from Cloud9
3 bags styles that will freshen up your accessories collection
Journey from
Monaluna
Canvas
Cotton
Pure Elements from
Art Gallery Fabrics
1
3
The larger the bag
the better!
Oversized bags are a key trend for this
year. Fika is a Swedish word meaning
‘to have coffee’. The classic clean lines
of this over-sized tote bag gives a nod
to its Scandinavian heritage and also
has lots of lovely features including
front pockets, lapped zipper back
pocket, recessed zipper closure and
padded pockets.
To find out more about the Fika Tote
from Noodlehead – click here
2
We’ve got your back!
Backpacks have definitely grown up,
and are ideal when you need your
hands free. Carry all necessities at ease
with this stylish version, which has a
wide adjustable shoulder strap, side
zipper opening, exterior flap pocket
and a handy exterior phone pocket on
side for easy access. Just add a cool
fringing or appliqué to bring it bang
up to date.
To view the Cheyenne Rope Bag
from Serendipity Studio – click here
Start a chain
reaction
Bags with chain handles are a mustmake,
and Prym has a great selection
of accessories for making amazing bags
including the Mia 70cm bag chain, which
will give your handmade bag a touch of
designer style.
To view more Prym handles, frames
and chains – click here