Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 6

Edition 6 – September 2019
Modern
sewing
starts here...
New season....
new things
to sew
Layering
Making this style work
for your home-sewn
autumn wardrobe
The latest fabric collections
from Art Gallery Fabrics
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Hamburger Liebe’s new Park Lane
capsule fabric collection full of
coordinating stunning substrates
www.hantex.co.uk 1

The Wilder Gown ... a loose, flowy,
tiered dress that can be sewn up in
a range of different styles!
With raglan sleeves and tie-up
neck, it’s perfect for drapey woven
fabrics and super-easy to sew.
Choose from 100’s of patterns
by the best indie designers
and then find a stockist

Editor’s Letter
Hello
As the children settle back at school, September is all about fresh beginnings. For
stitchers this is no exception, so read on as we help you start new sewing projects for
the last few months of the year.
If you like making your own clothes, then this edition is packed full of things to
sew for your autumn wardrobe and make it work for you. Rachel Pinheiro has been
sewing with Modelo’s new melange rib knit fabric to make a gorgeous Nikko maxi
dress from True Bias. While we look at the best sewing patterns to layer up for
transcending the seasons!
We hate to mention the ‘C’ word, but Christmas will be upon us before you
know it so Sarah Ashford shares some super suggestions for working with the
new fabric collection, Tinsel from Cloud9. We’re so excited to share the new
fabric collection releases from Art Gallery Fabrics that will be in the shops
very soon! With environmental issues at the forefront, we chat with Jennifer
Moore from Monaluna about her beautiful organic fabrics.
Happy stitching!
Hantex
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
WIN WIN WIN!
We’ve three sets of the fabric and
pattern used by Rachel Pinheiro
in her feature on page 14 to give
away. For a chance to win one of
the sets up – click here
Closing date is
31st October 2019
COOL CAPSULE ASSORTMENT
Park Lane by Hamburger Liebe
brings you a concept fabric
range featuring seven different
substrates that all co-ordinate
and are ready to go!
The range includes exciting
fabrics such as four softshells,
four sweatshirts, four viscose
jerseys, two rayons, four French
Terry and six cotton fabrics. They
all come in rich, autumnal colours
that are perfect for jackets and
snuggly tops, as well as much
lighter garments.
Susanne Firmenich, the
designer behind Hamburger
Liebe, is a surface pattern
designer with a huge following
in Germany that’s now spreading
to the UK.
To watch our video on the fabric collection – click here
To the Hamburger Liebe’s Park Lane collection – click here
#modernsewingstartshere

Pick of the
PATTERNS
New sewing pattern releases that
you’ll want to make
SLACKS ARE BACK!
Slacks are defined as trousers for casual wear,
and while we don’t hear this term much
these days – we think it’s time to embrace
it again! The Free Range Slacks pattern is
as easy to wear as its name because of the
comfortable elastic high waist. Although
the pattern is designed for linen, with
two options to choose from, you’ll
want to make them in lots of
fabrics and wear them all-year
long These slacks come in
sizes 00-20.
To find out more about
this sewing pattern from
Sew House Seven – click here
ETHEREAL BEAUTY
The new Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern
Company is a lovely loose, flowing tiered dress
that can be sewn up in lots of different ways! Make
it as a top or dress, long or short sleeved, and with
one or two skirt tiers. The design is fairly modular
so it’s simple to customise to your own personal
style, and is also easy to make. It’s designed for
drapey woven fabrics – make in rayon or silk to
give it a more elegant dressy look, while sewing in
a sturdy fabric like a linen will give you a structured
everyday dress. The pattern comes is sizes XS-4X.
To find out more about the Wilder Gown sewing
pattern – click here
WONDERFUL WRAP
True Bias has created another stunning pattern. The
Calvin wrap dress and top features exposed bias binding
that extends into long ties to close. It also features rings
and sliders that create adjustable shoulder straps for
perfectly fitting straps. Make in either a short top that sits
approximately 2in below your natural waist or a straight
dress that hits mid calf. Sew in light to medium weight
woven fabrics that press well such as linen, chambray,
rayon challis, silk crepe de chine, and cotton. This pattern
has been designed for intermediate sewers and comes in
sizes 0-18.
To take a closer look at this True Bias sewing pattern –
click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand
or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

CODE
Four knit dress patterns that are perfect for transcending the season
1The Ebony
The Ebony Tee is a
versatile wardrobe
staple and is an elegant
basic featuring a fluidly
draped silhouette. Make
a swingy knit dress or
modern cropped top,
with a choice of scoop or
jewel neckline, and long
or 3/4 sleeves. Choose
knits with at least 30%
crosswise stretch such
as rayon, cotton, silk,
merino and linen jerseys.
To view more options
from Closet Case –
click here
The Bristol
This bell-shape, knee-length
dress has a front and back yoke
and long sleeves with cuffs. The
front wraps to back and stitched
to the inverted V-shape back
panel. This pattern is ideal for
two and four-way stretch knits
The pattern makes a pretty neat
top too!
To find more patterns from The
Sewing Workshop – click here
2
3
The Turner
Elegance meets comfort
with this dress from
Cashmerette. This
beginner-friendly knit
dress with a lined bodice
curve friendly V-neck, softly
flared skirt, and three sleeve
lengths will become an everyday
staple. Whether you make it in
cosy merino jersey or lightweight
rayon jersey, this dress will carry
you through the seasons with
style! This pattern is available in a
wide range of sizes 16-32 as well
as three bust cup sizes – C/D, E/F
and G/H.
To find out more about the
Turner Dress pattern – click here
The River
This easy to
4
sew pattern
features a
reversible
raglan dress
(or top) that
can be made in both
woven or knit fabrics.
The pattern features
loose fit, optional
pockets, waist tie, and
can be made with the
V-neck or the round neck
at the front. Another great
option for autumn and
available in sizes XS – XL.
To view this pattern from
Megan Nielsen – click here

A DESIRE FOR
sustainable fabrics
Jennifer Moore runs Monaluna – a small independent organic fabric
company in Walnut Creek in Canada. We talk to her about her fabrics
For anyone that’s not
familiar with Monaluna
fabrics – tell us about
your company and how
it all started?
Monaluna is an organic fabric
company that specialises in
high-quality cotton fabrics
printed with whimsical,
modern designs. I started
the company in 2010 at a
time when there were far
fewer options for organic
cotton in the market. I had
been licensing my artwork
for fabric for about a year,
but the more I learned about
the environmental and health
impacts of conventional
cotton fabric production, the
more committed I became
to offering more sustainable
fabric options.
When I was unable to
ensure that my licensed
artwork would be printed on
organic fabric, I decided to
try to do it myself. I started
with one collection that I
had planned to sell over the
course of a year, but it sold
out in three months. I realised
there was a real demand in
the market, so I rushed to
design the next collection, and
a company was born! I had a
newborn baby at the time too,
so it was an exciting time!
What do you see as the
main benefits of using
organic cotton?
Although there are benefits
to the end user, including the
absence of residual toxins
on the fabrics and an overall
stronger and more absorbent
fabric – the main benefits are
more holistic. Organic cotton
farming doesn’t rely on
toxic pesticides or synthetic
fertilisers, and the overall
carbon footprint and water
usage is much smaller, so it’s
better for the environment
and community, as well as
the workers who are
producing the crop.
The production of the
fabric is more eco-friendly
too, using only low-impact
dyes and no formaldehyde,
chlorine bleach or other harsh
chemicals in the processing.
Our fabrics are all GOTScertified,
which means that
the fabrics meet the highest
environmental, as well as
social standards.

Do you design all the
fabric for Monaluna
and what inspires
your designs?
I do! I always find plenty of
inspiration – the hard part is
choosing what themes and
designs will make the best
fabrics. I often find inspiration
close to home such as in
my garden, which is full
of flowers and fruit trees,
birds, butterflies and the
occasional chicken, but also
from my living room – one
collection that I designed was
influenced by my Chemex
coffee pot, and the recent
Saturday collection is loosely
based on my cats sleeping
and playing in my studio. A
couple of the more recent
collections, Magical Creatures
and the new Festival
collection are inspired by
some of the stories I read to
my daughter.
Who do your fabrics
appeal to?
I think our fabrics have a
pretty wide appeal, because
while there are lots of playful
and juvenile prints – we also
do more sophisticated and
adult ranges. The fact that it’s
organic definitely speaks to
a certain audience, but while
most of our customers value
that, they ultimately buy the
fabrics because they love
the prints.
Our standard poplin base
cloth is lovely for apparel,
but also perfect for quilting,
accessories and some décor
projects, so it’s very versatile.
We also carry cotton
lawns, canvas, double gauze
and knits, so there’s a little
something for most sewists.
Festival is one of
your latest ranges, and
is proving very popular –
why do you think this is?
Festival is a really playful
collection, with rich colours
and a happy vibe. Animal
prints are always very
popular, and I think tropical
plants and flowers are having
a moment right now. It’s one
of my favourites because of
all the colour and texture – I
like how the Tassels print
feels so saturated and warm,
and I like the way it and the
other geometric, The Keys,
integrate with the other
larger scale prints.
How many fabric
collections do you create
every year?
We usually ceate about four
collections a year, but we’ve
done as many as nine!
Do you have any exciting
news to share with us?
We’re working on some
exciting new products right
now, including some kits, as
well as digital formats for our
sewing patterns. There are a
lot of irons in the fire!
To view all of the fabric
ranges from Monaluna,
and also find a stockist
near you – click here

Festive
FUN
When is it cool to wear a
Christmas outfit? You decide!
Wearing Christmas designs is all part of
the festive season fun. Start planning your
office party or Christmas Day outfit now!
These cute new designs from
Modelo come in brushed French
Terry and cotton jersey, and both
are perfect for seasonal snuginess!
Choose designs such as the red
nose reindeer, quirky angels,
Christmas sheep, reindeers
and trees, and reindeers with a
Scandinavian feel and who could
resist the sweet pugs in Christmas
jumpers and antlers!
To view all the designs and
pre-order – click here
MERRY & BRIGHT
Since Art Gallery Fabrics prints are versatile and
can often be grouped together to create a certain
mood or theme for sewing projects, AGF has
decided to start curating new groups that are
truly a collective! This is the first collective fabric
collection of cottons for a really wintery and cosy
feel and includes curated whimsy prints from Amy
Sinibaldi, Pat Bravo, Maureen Cracknell, Katarina
Roccella, and Bonnie Christine and turned them
into this holiday-inspired collection.
Take a look at this collection from Art Gallery
Fabrics – click here
TINSEL
Tinsel is the new collection from Cloud 9, and pairs
beautiful bright Christmassy colours with traditional
festive styling. This fabric collection is a beautiful
medium-weight organic cotton that’s idea for all
your Christmas projects.
To find out more about this fun range – click here

Add a touch of
TINSEL
Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover
shares her ideas for making for the festive season
Steaming hot chocolate,
stockings, gingerbread
men, sprigs of holly, and of
course Santa, are far from
most people’s minds until the
festive season arrives. But for
us quilters and sewers, we
need to plan ahead, and
get thinking about our
Christmas makes, weeks or
even months in advance,
especially if we want to avoid
a last minute panic!
heads, and the bejewelled
seasonal ornaments really
appear to glow against the
dark background in the Shiny
and Bright print. I also love
the contrasting cool blue
Wonderland print with its
flurry of delicate snowflakes
– it really does conjure up a
feeling of crisp, cold winters.
I love English Paper Piecing
and hexagons, they are
the traditional shape, so
I’ve fussy cut some of my
favourite prints (I just had to
include the smiling Santas!)
and I made some rosettes
that would work beautifully
incorporated into lots of
small projects.
There’s nothing I love more
than a non-traditional
Christmas collection, and
Tinsel by Clarice Gifford for
Cloud Nine fabrics is just
that. With pinks, electric
blues and oranges, this
adorable collection has a
lovely retro vibe and with
so many gorgeous motifs,
there’s lots of opportunity
for fussy cutting and really
making those Christmas
characters shine! Just look
at the sweet smiling Santas,
balancing piles of beautifully
wrapped presents on their
Ideas for makes
These rosettes would look
great appliquéd to a set of
festive stockings, perhaps
made in a solid colour, or
even felt to make the prints
really pop. Or how about
making a set of tablemats
and a table runner to add
that extra special touch for a
handmade Christmas?
Another personal favourite
yuletide make is tea towels
appliquéd with hexie motifs.
Not only are these a lovely
festive feature in your
kitchen, they also make lovely
gifts. Why not make some
oven gloves as well! You
could even go all the way
and make a special Christmas
apron to complete the set!
Whatever you make, be
sure to take time to enjoy the
process and embrace this
collection in all its pink and
blue retro glory! Have some
fun with your stitching and be
organised in plenty of time
for the festive season.
Editor’s notes
The fabric Sarah used
was from the Tinsel fabric
collection designed
by Clairice Gifford for
Cloud9. Made from
100% organic quilters
weight cotton. The range
features seven lovely
Christmassy designs.
To view the full collection
– click here

Focus on
FABRICS
Feast your eyes on the latest
fabrics for your autumn sewing
Art Gallery Fabrics has just revealed its autumn/winter fabric
collection so whether you’re looking for a traditional print
or something more contemporary, there’s something for
all stitchers. The ranges are always on-trend and the fabric
works equally well for clothing, soft furnishings, as well as
quilting and other sewing projects. In addition to its pima
cotton, AGF now has a beautiful range of knitted jersey,
rayon, canvas and denims. Here is the latest fabric collection
offerings designed by AGF’s talented designers:
ALEXANDRA BORDALLO
Dew + Moss
Dew + Moss is perfect for brightening up a child’s room with
its meadow theme designs in shades of orange and green.
With mushroom houses, snails, fireflies and jars of bugs,
meadow plants and physiognomies – it’s a really colourful
and happy collection.
To see all the fabrics within this collection – click here
KATARINA ROCCELLA
Floralish
Inspired by a summer’s day that’s
filled with delectable fruits and
stunning flora, Katarina has
created Floralish so that the fresh
and sweet tones of the blossoms
fuse with her watercolour designs
and textures.
To see more of the bright
designs from this range
– click here
AGF IN HOUSE STUDIO
Meriwether
Meaning happy weather in middle
English, Meriwether celebrates
enchanting flora and fauna that
comes out when the sun is
shining. Inspired by folkloric
and stitching motifs, you’ll
discover colourful blooms,
curious rabbits, and
dancing June bugs in this
whimsical collection.
To view this cheerful
collection – click here
PAT BRAVO
Nunica
Memories of an inspiring motherdaughter
relationship, stories
from a kitchen in Buenos Aires,
Argentina, and a mutual love of
flowers create Nuncia. Named
after Pat’s mother in a tribute to her
life and the amazing lessons she left
for her two daughters.
To take a closer look at this
beautiful fabric collection –
click here

ALEXANDRA BORDALLO
Maara
Let this collection take you on
a tour to Africa. While touring
the African Savanna in Kenya,
Alexandra captured the wildlife
on her own camera and decided
to translate these photos into
prints. She has brought to life a
collection that shares a glimpse of
everyday life on the enchanting
grassland, there’s so many
lovely designs it will be
difficult to choose!
To take a closer look
at this beautiful fabric
collection – click here
AGF IN HOUSE STUDIO
Knits Spotted
Spotted fabrics remain a popular choice
to mix and match. This new knit spot collection allows you
to choose from small and large dots that are ideal for colour
blocking and great for projects that require a little stretch
such as T-shirts, tank tops, dresses and leggings. This range
has a four-way stretch so is incredibly comfortable and also
super soft. You can successfully sew them with your sewing
machine so an overlocker is not needed, and if you’re a
beginner the fabric is also very forgiving.
To see more from this spotty range – click here
MAUREEN CRACKNELL
Enchanted Voyage
Set sail on a whimsical journey
with this beautiful ocean-inspired
collection. Illuminated with seainspired
illustrations, you’ll want
to listen to the waves, count the
stars and greet majestic whales
on this nautical adventure.
To see more of Enchanted
Voyage – click here
AGF STUDIO
Selva
Earth inspires us with its playful creatures and extensive
foliage. From lush jungles in Central America to the fierce
fauna in the African Savannah, the Selva collection is
nourished by the bright colours, creatures, and plants found
in the planet’s on-land iconic ecosystems.
To find out more about this beautiful fabric – click here
JESSICA SWIFT
Kushukuru
After the passing of her husband,
Jessica received an overwhelming
amount of love that inspired her
to create fabrics that celebrated
life, compassion, family and
community. In Swahili,
kushukuru means
gratitude, which
became the heart
of this collection.
To view more from
this collection –
click here
The illustrations are from the popular Lark Tee and Alder shirtdress sewing patterns from Grainline
and Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven are to showcase the fabrics and are not to scale

Other new fabric colletion releases
to look out for this season:
RIB KNIT
Modelo
Modelo’s melange rib sweater knit is perfect for
garments which need stretch such as tops and dresses.
It comes in 10 great muted tones, which are ideal for
your autumn/winter wardrobe.
To discover more colours for your sweaters –
click here
ED EMBERLEY FAVORITES
This is a selection of favourite designs from Ed Emberley, and
contains repetitive animal prints and scribbles that are great
for fun soft furnishing and other sewing projects.
To find more designs fom this collection – click here
TINSEL
Cloud9 is already for the festive season with this quilter’s
weight cotton created by Clarice Gifford, and has come up
with this gorgeous collection of Christmas fabrics called
Tinsel. Think snowflakes, gingerbread men, baubles, and of
course pressies!
To find out more about this festive line – click here
PLANT PEEPS
This linen cotton base fabric collection designed by
Meena Patel puts the fun back into fabric design with
her cute faces on plants.
To find more Plant Peeps designs – click here

SECRET
STITCHING
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages explains about three stitches that
can improve the overall look of your garments
STAY STITCHING
What is it?
Stay stitch is a straight stitch
sewn around curves where a
curve cuts across a stretchiest
part of the fabric such as
necklines, sleeve heads and
facings a single fabric piece.
It prevents the fabric from
becoming distorted and
stabilises it before sewing
together. I’d recommend
using the directional stitching
method as it helps maintain
the original shape of the
pieces anad is always done
from upper edge towards the
centre (see diagram below).
How to stay stich
• Set your stitch length to 1.5
• Sew ⅛in from the sewing
line, so if your seam
allowance is ⅛in then stitch
½in away from the raw edge.
• Stay stitch as soon as you
can after cutting your
fabric out to prevent any
curves stretching before
you start sewing.
• For necklines, stitch from
the one shoulder and stitch
to the centre front and then
sew from the other shoulder
to the centre front.
UNDER STITCHING
What is it?
This is a stitching line close
to the edge of a facing to
stop it from rolling toward
the outside of the garment,
and being seen. It comes in
handy when sewing around a
neckline and keeps the facing
firmly on the inside of your
garment and attached to the
seam allowance as shown
here on my Odgen Camisole
from Closet Case Patterns.
How to under stitch
• Start by pressing the seam
allowance towards the facing
or lining. You may want to
clip or notch any curves so
they lay flat.
• Stitch between ⅛ in to ¼in
from the seam line (easier to
do with an edge stitch foot).
• Press the facing towards the
inside of the garment so that
the facing now lays flat with a
crisp edge, preventing it from
rolling out of place.
TIP: Sometimes it’s not
possible to under stitch hard
to reach areas, so just stitch
as close as you can.
TOPSTITCHING
What is it?
Actually this stitch is not
hidden but equally as
important for the look of
your garment. If you haven’t
topstitched before avoid
using a contrasting thread
colour and opt for a subtle
colour until you’ve mastered
this technique.
But once you’ve got to grips
with this stitch, you can use it
to style up your garment with
contrasting topstitching. Use
it for pockets and reinforcing
seams on denim.
How to topstitch
• Match the thread weight to
the weight of your fabric
• Always use all-purpose
thread in the bobbin.
• Adjust your tension
setting when working with
topstitching thread - low
tension can cause a loose
stitching on the wrong side
of your fabric, while a high
tension can cause the bobbin
thread to be visible from the
right side of the fabric.
• Use the appropriate needle
like a Microtex needle for an
extra sharp tip that will create
precise stitches.
• On heavy weight fabrics,
choose a speciality needle
has a longer eye to
accommodate thicker thread
and use a slightly longer
stitch length of 3.5–4 stitch
length. On medium-weight
fabrics select a stitch length
of 3.
Editor’s notes
Topstitching shown on
the Fiona sundress from
Closet Case Patterns.
To take a look at this
pattern – click here
To view the Prym Microtex
needles – click here

Drawstring bag
& keyring
This purse is perfect for make-up but would work
equally as well as an evening bag!
Designed by Jacqui Smith
“If you read the last
edition, you’ll recall my
slouchy bag project that
I made from Modelo faux
leather. It got such a good
response that I decided to
use up the leftover fabric
to make this matching
purse and keyring.”
Sewing with faux leather
The Modelo faux leather used
comes in a wide range of colours
including metallic and pearl
finishes. It has a woven fabric
backing that sews really well with
a normal machine foot.
To see all the rich zingy colours
available – click here
If you missed the Slouch Bag
project last time, don’t worry just
– click here

Requirements:
Leftover fabric from
Slouchy Bag project
pattern OR
1 fat quarter of cotton
fabric
10in x 12in scrap of
faux leather
1 Prym key ring finding
1m narrow ribbon
or cord
Matching thread and
contrasting thread for
topstitching
Tacky glue
For the drawstring
pouch:
Cut 4 x 8½in x 8in
pieces from the main
cotton fabric
Cut 2 x 8½in x 4½in
and 2 x 1in x ½in pieces
from the faux leather
To sew the pouch:
Seam allowance throughout
is ¼in.
1. Take two pieces of the
main fabric and and draw a
line 4in up across on the right
side of the longer side. This
is a guideline for placing the
faux leather. On both pieces,
place the faux leather right
sides together with the main
fabric along this line and
stitch together.
2. With right sides out, fold
the faux leather down so
that the raw seam edges are
hidden and topstitch in place.
3. Place main pieces right
sides together lining up the
faux leather at the sides.
Stitch both side seams and
bottom seam.
4. Using a small quilter’s ruler,
mark a 1in square in both
of the bottom corners. Cut
along both lines to remove
the square.
5. Fold the corners so that
the bottom seam match the
side seam to make a triangle
shape. Make sure that the
side seam is open before
stitching. Stitch across the cut
edge to make a flat base for
the bag and repeat for the
other side.
6. To sew the lining pieces
together, pin the lining fabric
right sides together and sew
the side and bottom seams,
leaving a gap in the bottom
seam to turn the bag.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5
to make the flat base for
the lining.
8. With lining right sides out
and the main bag inside out,
place the lining inside the
main bag piece matching top
and side seams, right sides
together. Sew around the top.
9. Turn the bag right sides out
through the hole in the lining
seam and topstitch the top of
the bag. Stitch a second row
of topstitching approx ½in
down to form a channel for the
drawstring (this will depend on
the ribbon’s width you choose).
10. Using an unpicker, carefully
unpick a few stitches in the side
seams between the two rows
of topstitching. Cut the cord/
ribbon into two equal lengths
and using a safety pin pass it
through one seam hole to the
other side and back around
the bag top. Take the second
ribbon/cord and do the same
from the opposite side.
11. Cut the ribbon to your
preferred length and match the
ends together. Using a suitable
glue, place it on the wrong
side of the small faux leather
squares and fold over each end
of the ribbon/cord to neaten.
12. Finally handstitch the
gap in the bottom lining seam
to close.
Tips for sewing
You may find it easier to
sew the faux leather with a
teflon foot or walking foot
(although the Modelo is
easy to sew with so I didn’t
need either) and increase
your stitch length a little
to around 2.4 to avoid
stressing the faux leather
at the seams.
For the keyring:
Cut a strip of printed
cotton - 2in x 8in
Cut a strip of faux
leather - 3in x 8in
Mark a line down the
centre of the faux leather
8in piece on the wrong side.
Put small dots of the glue
along the faux leather edge
on the wrong side and fold
the edges to the line so that
they meet in the middle. I
found it useful to use some
quilters clips to hold this while
it dried.
With worng sides together,
fold the cotton strip in half
lengthwise and sew. Press
with the seam allowance
underneath so that it’s hidden
(no need to turn it as the
seam will be hidden when it’s
attached).
Using the glue and clips,
stick the fabric strip over
the centre of the leather
strip to hide both the seam
and join. Use just enough
glue to hold everything in
place temporarily.
Topstitch along the edges
of the cotton strip.
Fold in half with raw edges
matching. Using pliers, fold
the keyring finding around the
end of the strip encasing the
raw ends. Put a fabric scrap
over the finding to avoid
damaging it with the pliers.
You have now finished your
matching accessories!

Athleisure reworked
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares
her take on athleisure wear for the autumn
Working with knit fabrics
I like to talk fashion trends instead of
just bringing you a product review but I
couldn’t help to gush a little about this
rib knit. This fabric is pure softness, and
is warm but not bulky. It also sews really
well, keeps it shape, and the colours
selections are lovely. Sewing with this
sort of fabric can seem a bit daunting
so here are my tips on working with it:
Two- or four-way stretch
Two-way knits will stretch crosswise
from selvedge to selvdge while fourway
stretches crosswise and lengthwise.
Use a stretch gauge
Knit patterns including the Nikko dress
will have a gauge to make sure the
finished measurement will fit correctly.
Fold the knit fabric crosswise and cut a
10cm sample. I personally avoid using
the edge as I’m not sure if it has been
stretched or distorted out of shape. If
you’ve never sewn with knits always
follow the designer recommendation
on the percentage of stretch.
Choose the right stretch stitch
Check your sewing manual to find
all the different stretch stitches your
machine can do, and swatch test them
with the sewing gauge. You may need
to adjust your sewing machine tension
and the length of the stitches.
As the weather starts to change and
nights become longer, the colour
palette of my wardrobe moves from
bright and light to earthy deep tones.
Autumn is my favourite season and isn’t
a season I had experienced growing
up. In Brazil, we have two defined
seasons – rainy or not! The blue skies
and the slight chill inspires me to make
clothes that are cosy, easy to layer but
that are still streamlined and elegant.
Athleisure is one of the biggest
recurrent trends over the last couple
of years. It means wearing casual
sports-like clothing outside a sporting
occasion When looking for inspiration,
my aim was to find something easy to
wear yet also easy to care for, and quick
to make with lots of styling possibilities.
The Nikko dress from True Bias and
Modelo’s sweater rib knit in brick red
fitted the bill perfectly.
Seam allowance
Most knits designs have 1cm seam
instead of the 2.5cm traditionally
seen in woven. Don’t assume this. I
personally like to have my seams cut to
0.6cm, which I trim with an overlocker
after using the correct stretch stitch
but you don’t need to as knits don’t
unravel. I actually stitched this dress on
my sewing machine.
Cut notches outward
Select the correct notions and use
a ballpoint needle, polyester or knit
thread. Please don’t confuse with
elastic used for shirring. The knit
thread is wooly nylon.
Don’t skip on the stabilisers
Place elastic on the shoulder seam, and
use knit hem tape for sharper edges.
Pressing
Unlike woven fabrics, stretch knit
should only be pressed with a cool iron
when finished. That is only after you
have tested a sample.
Editor’s notes
Rachel has used Modelo’s new range of mélange rib sweater knit. Made from
85% polyester, 10% viscose and 5% Lycra, this fabric is perfect for garments
that need stretch. The range includes 10 rich muted tones that are great for
autumn/winter but will work equally well all-year round.
To view the full selection of colourways – click here
To view the dress pattern featured (The Nikko from True Bias) - click here

Trendsetter
Love layers
If you’re not ready to let go of your summer wardrobe, the layered look is a perfect
way to keep wearing summery garments for a bit longer, and also coping with
weather that’s warm one minute and chilly the next!
Second skin
Start with a thin layer. The
Julia swing camisole with
rounded V-neck and racer
back is the ideal layer
to wear next to your skin.
Choose a knit with stretch in
the length and width and a
nice fluid drape, and why not
try going for a bold design.
To view this pattern from Jalie
– click here
To view the large selections of
knits available – click here
A must-have mac
The Ulysses mixes relaxed fit
trench styling with a modern look
and features draped elements
such as a shawl collar and
curved back rain-guard overlay, shoulder
epaulettes, angled patch pockets with an
upper flap, centre-back vent, and a gently
angled hemline at the front.
The coat is unlined, making this cool
styling coat for in-between seasons.
To view this pattern from Victory Patterns
– click here
Staple shirt
A classic shirt makes another
great layer that’s both
practical and easy to
wear. The Kalle Shirt
from Closet Case Patterns has a
loose, body-skimming silhouette and
interchangeable features including
a standard or band collar, breast
pocket, inverted or box pleat, and
button, popover or hidden placket.
To view the Kalle Shirt (and
shirtdress) pattern – click here
The humble cardi
Whip up a cardigan for a versatile
layering piece. This Aurelia
Cardigan from Sew Liberated is
as comfortable as it is stylish, and
is perfect for making with a soft knit and a
cotton voile underskirt and ruffle. Pair it with
a long-sleeve tee or throw it over a camisole
when the evenings get chilly.
To see more about the Aurelia Cardigan –
click here
To find out more about this pattern from Megan
Nielsen – click here
To view the Wanderlust
collection of jersey and
accessories – click here
Sassy sweatshirts
A loose fit sweater can look stylish
made in a modern sweat fabric. The
Jarrah will turn a plain sweatshirt into
something special. Make with a crew
or funnel neckline, split sleeve hem
and waist ties, cuffs or curved hemline.
Or if you want to make a quick
sweatshirt then opt for Albstoffe’s
Wanderlust collection of jerseys and
co-ordinating ribbed
cuffs, trims and
sweatshirt cords.

SPACE-SAVING
STORAGE IDEAS
The Stash n Store
organiser now comes in a
cute new mini size! It’s the
perfect organiser for even
the tightest and smallest
of spaces. With multiple
pockets and centre divider,
it will easily stow away
sewing notions, marking
tools and even small
scissors and rulers. It’s the
perfect pocket-sized travel
companion for stitching on
the go!
The silicone pockets are
smooth and offer a sturdy
grip and it is also simple
to clean. Available in nine
funky colours for your
sewing room and even
your home office!
To view the complete
Oh Sew! storage
collection– click here
MORE FROM PRYM
We’re just upped our game with lots more products
from the reputable Prym brand from exciting
storage solutions like this roomy trolley to make
sure your sewing machine is transported safely to your
next sewing class and plenty of space for your sewing
options. Or if you are looking for a dress form, Prym’s range is
impressive thanks to its premium, well-conceived designs with
moving parts. These eight-piece rotatable dress forms can
be flexibly adjusted to individual proportions. There is also a
huge selection of sewing accessories from elastics and bag
making components.
To view the extensive Prym dress forms –
click here
To check out more storage ideas
– click here
WHATS
NEW
We keep you posted of the latest launches
NEW BOOK FROM
LORI HOLT
Exciting news, It’s Sew Emma
brings you even more quilt
blocks and projects for all
Farm Girl Vintage fans to
enjoy in this second book –
Farm Girl Vintage 2. Lori Holt has rounded up 45
one-of-a-kind 6in and 12in quilt blocks inspired by
her rural roots.
She has also designed 13 new projects for this book
including quilts, pillows, pincushion, and of course a
fantastic new sampler quilt! As always, quilters can
mix and match quilt blocks from Lori’s previous books
for endless piecing possibilities.
This book is wonderful for classes, swaps, retreats,
and quilt shops can also bundle them with Lori Holt’s
other books like Farm Girl Vintage, Spelling Bee, and
Vintage Christmas.
To view this new Lori Holt book – click here
CROSS STITCH GETS
CONTEMPORARY
New cross stitch patterns designed by the everpopular
Lori Holt for It’s Sew Emma have a
contemporary feel and are perfect for stitchers
looking for a quick and easy make. With eight
new designs, you’re bound to find one that you
like. Choose from autumn- and Christmas-inspired
samplers and other stylish designs such as Sew
She Did and Eat, Sleep, Stitch Repeat.
Those who like to make cards will love the
Bee in My Bonnet Stitch Cards Set, that come
with full-colour instructions, diagrams and
supply list, including suggested DMC colours.
Each set includes four stitch cards printed on
durable cardstock.
To take a look at the full collection – click here

Park Lane By Hamburger Liebe Distributed by Hantex Ltd (UK)