Fah Thai Magazine - Inflight Magazine of Bangkok Airways Issue May-June 2023
Fah Thai Magazine is an In-Flight Magazine of Bangkok Airways.
Fah Thai Magazine is an In-Flight Magazine of Bangkok Airways.
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MAY-JUN <strong>2023</strong><br />
KOH SAMUI<br />
REJUVENATED<br />
DISCOVERING SOUTHERN<br />
THAI CUISINE<br />
THE BUZZ IN<br />
OLD BANGKOK<br />
CHIANG MAI’S<br />
LANNA GLAMOUR<br />
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
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LONG LIVE HER MAJESTY<br />
QUEEN SUTHIDA BAJRASUDHABIMALALAKSHANA<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> and <strong>Fah</strong> <strong>Thai</strong> magazine jointly wish<br />
Her Majesty the Queen the very best wishes on the auspicious occasion<br />
<strong>of</strong> her birthday anniversary on 3 rd <strong>June</strong>, <strong>2023</strong><br />
EXPLORARHOTELS.COM
MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT<br />
กัปตัน พุฒิพงศ์ ปราสาททองโอสถ<br />
Captain Puttipong Prasarttong-Osoth<br />
กรรมการผู้อำนวยการใหญ่ / President<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> Public Company Limited<br />
Dear Passengers, welcome to the inflight<br />
services <strong>of</strong> <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> once again.<br />
This year we are pleased to be celebrating<br />
the 55th birthday <strong>of</strong> <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong>. I would<br />
like to thank our customers, partners and<br />
allies for their support, trust and loyalty over<br />
the decades. To mark the special occasion,<br />
the airline has launched a major annual<br />
campaign in its continuing push for social<br />
and environmental responsibility. <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
<strong>Airways</strong> has also adopted ESG (environment,<br />
social and governance) guidelines for steady<br />
growth, while ensuring care and satisfaction<br />
for stakeholders throughout the value chain.<br />
Our philosophy is to give back to society,<br />
develop human capital, and promote various<br />
potentials, including reducing the environmental<br />
impact <strong>of</strong> operations. Overall, <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
<strong>Airways</strong> aims to deliver happiness through<br />
exceptional travel experiences in line with<br />
our motto “Connect Your Happiness”.<br />
To succeed in our mission <strong>of</strong> creating<br />
happiness through unforgettable journeys,<br />
the airline is steadily reopening routes and<br />
boosting frequency <strong>of</strong> flights to meet rising<br />
demand from travellers. But our priorities<br />
remain unchanged – delivering premium<br />
services including lounges, food and<br />
beverages served on the flight, as well as the<br />
comfort and safety <strong>of</strong> our passengers and our<br />
operational team. Also mindful <strong>of</strong> society and<br />
the environment, we have adopted measures<br />
like providing label-less drinking water bottles<br />
and including locally grown agricultural<br />
products in our inflight meals.<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> will continue working<br />
to achieve the highest safety standards<br />
while improving services for passengers’<br />
satisfaction and happiness.<br />
I would like to thank all passengers for<br />
your trust, your support and for choosing to<br />
fly with <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong>.<br />
Thank you.<br />
สวััสดีีท่่านผู้้โดียสารทุุกท่่าน ยินดีีต้้อนรับส้่<br />
การบริการบนเท่ี ยวบ ินของสายการบินบางกอก<br />
แอร์เวย์์สอีกครังครับ<br />
ปีีนี นับเป็็นปีีท่ีน่ายินดีี เน่องจากเป็็นปีีครบ<br />
รอบ 55 ปีีของสายการบินบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส<br />
ผู้มขอขอบคุณการสนับสนุนจากลููกคา ค้่คา แลูะ<br />
พัันธมิต้ร ท่ีให้้ควัามเชื่่อมั นแลูะย่นหยััดีเคียงค้่กับ<br />
เรามาโดียต้ลูอดี แลูะเพั่อเป็็นการเฉลิิมฉลูอง<br />
สายการบินไดีมีการเปิิดีต้ัวัแคมเปีญห้ลูักของปีีนี<br />
โดียมีเป้้าห้มายด้้านการรับผู้ิดีชื่อบต่่อสังคมแลูะ<br />
สิงแวัดีลูอม ควับค้่ไปก ับการพััฒนาการดำำาเนิน<br />
ธุรกิจให้้องค์กรเติิบโต้อย่างมันคง แลูะมีธรรมาภิิบาลู<br />
- ESG ( Environment Social แลูะ Governance)<br />
ดีวัยการดููแลูแลูะสรางควัามพึึงพัอใจให้กับผู้้มี<br />
ส่วันได้้เสียต้ลูอดีห้่วังโซ่่คุณค่า อีกท่ังคงไวัซ่่ง<br />
นโยบายด้้านการต้อบแท่นส้่สังคม การพััฒนา<br />
ทุุนมนุษย์ แลูะการส่งเสริมโอกาสต่่างๆ รวัมถึึง<br />
การลูดีผู้ลูกระท่บด้้านสิงแวัดีลูอมจากการ<br />
ดำำาเนินธุรกิจ โดียรวัมเป็็นการส่งมอบควัามสุข<br />
ผู้่านปีระสบการณ์การเดิินท่างท่ี ปีระทัับใจ หรืือ<br />
“Connect Your Happiness” นั นเอง<br />
เม่อพููดีถึึงการส่งมอบควัามสุขผู้่านปีระสบการณ์<br />
การเดิินท่างท่ีปีระทัับใจ ในด้้านเสนท่างบิน<br />
เพั่อต้อบสนองควัามต้้องการในการเดิินท่าง<br />
ของผู้้โดียสารท่ี มีเพั่มมากข้น สายการบินได้้<br />
ท่ยอยเปิิดีเสนท่างบินต่่างๆ รวัมถึึงเพั่มควัามถึี<br />
ของเท่ียวบ ิน ในด้้านของการบริการห้้องรับรอง<br />
แลูะอาห้าร-เครืองดี่มบนเท่ี ยวบ ิน สายการบิน<br />
มีการพััฒนารููปแบบโดียมุ่งเนนถึึงควัาม<br />
สะดีวักสบาย ควัามปีลูอดีภิัยของผู้้โดียสาร<br />
แลูะผู้้ปีฎิิบัติิงานเป็็นห้ลูัก โดียยังคำน ึงถึึงสังคม<br />
แลูะสิงแวัดีลูอมอีกดีวัย อาทิิ การให้้บริการ<br />
ขวดน้ำำดื่่มไรฉลูาก แลูะการสนับสนุนผู้ลูิต้ผู้ลู<br />
ท่างการเกษต้รของชืุ่มชื่น มาเสิร์ฟให้้ผู้้โดียสาร<br />
บนเท่ียวบ ิน<br />
อย่างไรก็ดีี สายการบินฯ จะรักษามาต้รฐาน<br />
ด้้านควัามปีลูอดีภิัยแลูะพััฒนาการบริการให้้ดีี<br />
ยิงข้นไปี เพั่อควัามพึึงพัอใจแลูะควัามสุขของ<br />
ผู้้โดียสาร แลูะขอขอบคุณผู้้โดียสารทุุกท่่าน<br />
ท่ี มีควัามเชื่่อมั น ให้้การสนับสนุนแลูะเลืือกท่ีจะ<br />
เดิินท่างกับสายการบินบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส<br />
เสมอมา<br />
ขอบคุณครับ<br />
A Model Of Gracious Living<br />
4
OVERTURES<br />
FEATURES<br />
12 PLAN AHEAD<br />
Let’s save the dates for cultural<br />
events, jazzy music, sports action,<br />
and fun festivals.<br />
16 WHAT’S UP,<br />
CHIANG MAI?<br />
Out and about in the land <strong>of</strong><br />
Lanna culture. Pay a visit to<br />
glorious temples, day and night<br />
markets, or opt for art in town.<br />
20 SOUL SOUP<br />
Gaeng Liang may not be as<br />
popular as Tom Yum Goong,<br />
but every slurp bursts with <strong>Thai</strong><br />
flavour – and health benefits.<br />
22 SCARY FRUIT?<br />
Don’t be horrified by the name:<br />
the strange but delicious Snake<br />
Fruit won’t bite you.<br />
24 COCONUT BALLS<br />
Craving something sweet and<br />
local? Try Khanom Tom, a recipe<br />
dating back to the Sukhothai era.<br />
28 ARTS & NATURE<br />
<strong>Fah</strong> <strong>Thai</strong> interviews artist<br />
Verapat Sitipol, whose visions <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Thai</strong> beauty are thrilling Europe.<br />
32 TRAVEL ESSENTIALS<br />
From Leica’s new Disney camera<br />
to Louis Vuitton’s earphones, Tech<br />
Talk <strong>of</strong>fers you a selection <strong>of</strong> cool<br />
new gadgets to carry on-the-go.<br />
34 DREAM ISLAND<br />
Koh Samui is back and better than<br />
ever, with a fresh blend <strong>of</strong> chic<br />
style and crystal-clear waters.<br />
42 SOUTHERN<br />
THAI TASTES<br />
Munching through the South, prized<br />
by foodies for its fresh, deliciously<br />
strong and pungent flavours.<br />
48 Old<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
Goes Hip<br />
48 OLD BANGKOK<br />
‘SECRET’<br />
Hidden behind chaotic Yaowarat<br />
in Chinatown, discover the<br />
buzzing bars, restaurants and<br />
galleries <strong>of</strong> Song Wat.<br />
Image: Warunyoo Somboon<br />
6<br />
7
HAPPENINGS<br />
Check out hip hangouts in <strong>Thai</strong>land<br />
and its neighbours.<br />
58 BANGKOK<br />
61 SAMUI<br />
66 PHUKET<br />
69 CHIANG MAI /<br />
PATTAYA / TRAT<br />
70 PHNOM PENH<br />
71 SIEM REAP<br />
72 LUANG PRABANG<br />
73 SINGAPORE<br />
CORPORATE<br />
76 BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS<br />
81 ROUTE MAP<br />
CHECKING OUT<br />
82 LIGHT THE NIGHT<br />
Local and international artists light up the<br />
Marina Bay in i Light Festival in <strong>June</strong>.<br />
This<br />
month’s cover:<br />
Reviving Samui<br />
42<br />
Flavourful<br />
South<br />
Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay,<br />
The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience.<br />
Mediterranean<br />
Luxury<br />
Most Romantic<br />
Most Romantic<br />
Cuisine: Asia<br />
Scenic Setting:<br />
Atmosphere:<br />
Atmosphere:<br />
South East Asia<br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land<br />
South East Asia<br />
W O R L D<br />
LUXU R Y<br />
R ESTA U R ANT<br />
AWA R D S<br />
W INNER<br />
2018<br />
W O R L D<br />
LUXU R Y<br />
R ESTA U R ANT<br />
AWA R D S<br />
W INNER<br />
2019<br />
W O R L D<br />
LUXU R Y<br />
R ESTA U R ANT<br />
AWA R D S<br />
W INNER<br />
2020<br />
W O R L D<br />
LUXU R Y<br />
R ESTA U R ANT<br />
AWA R D S<br />
W INNER<br />
2022<br />
2005 2006 2007 2009 2011<br />
2014<br />
2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020<br />
2013 2014 2015 2017 2018 2019<br />
"<strong>Thai</strong>land's Best Restaurants"<br />
2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014,<br />
2015, 2017, 2018 & 2019<br />
HAPA 2011 - 2022<br />
Most Exquisite Dining Experience<br />
Most Trendy Casual Dining<br />
Restaurant Of The Year<br />
Top Choice<br />
Award 2016<br />
Top Choice<br />
Award 2017<br />
Wine Spectator Award <strong>of</strong> Excellence<br />
2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 & 2020<br />
Reservations Essential<br />
reservations@brmunns.com | www.thecliffsamui.com | +66 (0) 77 448 508<br />
Open Monday - Sunday 12:00 pm - 12:00 am<br />
8
MOST<br />
EFFECTIVE IN<br />
TRAVEL AND<br />
LEISURE<br />
BEST USE OF<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
BEST<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
READ ONLINE<br />
BANGKOK AIRWAYS PUBLIC<br />
COMPANY LIMITED<br />
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Chom Phon, Chatuchak, <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
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ADVISORY BOARD<br />
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Director - Key Account and<br />
Ancillary Product<br />
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Manager - Ancillary Product<br />
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Officer - Ancillary Product<br />
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Managing Director<br />
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Email: steven@mpmith.com<br />
EDITORIAL<br />
Email: editorial@fahthaimag.com<br />
Editor-in-Chief Anutra Ungsuprasert<br />
Sub Editor Ramona Varma<br />
Deputy Editor Sarita Urupongsa<br />
Contributors<br />
Jan Thammapakkul<br />
Jeremie Schatz<br />
Kankanit Wichiantanon<br />
Khetsirin Pholdhampalit<br />
Loren Infeld<br />
Phoowadon Duangmee<br />
Pinanong Panchuen<br />
Richard Augustin<br />
Sirin P. Wongpanit<br />
Tossaporn Klinhom<br />
Contributing Photographers<br />
Bobby Heng<br />
Loren Infeld<br />
Samatcha Apaisuwan<br />
Sirin P. Wongpanit<br />
ART<br />
Creative Director JyeShen Koo<br />
Art Director Pongtorn Khaoplag<br />
PRODUCTION<br />
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MANAGEMENT<br />
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Digital Marketing & Administration Nutthamol Pengpun<br />
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“FAH THAI” is the in-flight magazine <strong>of</strong> <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> Public Company<br />
Limited and is edited and published by MPMI Group Co., Ltd. All articles and<br />
photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers<br />
at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views <strong>of</strong> the<br />
airline. <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> holds no responsibility or liability arising out <strong>of</strong> the<br />
publication <strong>of</strong> such articles and photographs.<br />
All information correct at press time. All rights reserved. No part <strong>of</strong> this<br />
magazine may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in<br />
any form or by any means without the prior written permission <strong>of</strong> <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
<strong>Airways</strong> Public Company Limited and MPMI Group Co., Ltd.<br />
Jazz On<br />
The Beach<br />
Ellister van der<br />
Molen and other<br />
acclaimed artists<br />
from Europe,<br />
South America,<br />
the US and<br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land blow<br />
in for nightly<br />
performances <strong>of</strong><br />
jazz under the<br />
stars at beachside<br />
backdrops.<br />
ESSENTIAL NOTES TO GUIDE YOUR TRAVELS<br />
NEWS & EVENTS 12 / THAILAND TREASURES 16 / A TASTE OF THAILAND 20 / FRUITFUL FINDS 22<br />
/ JUST DESSERT 24 / ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS 28 / TECH TALK 32<br />
Photo: Merlijn Doomernik<br />
10<br />
11
OVERTURES<br />
NEWS AND EVENTS<br />
<strong>May</strong>- Jun <strong>2023</strong><br />
2-7<br />
MAY<br />
<strong>2023</strong><br />
LAOS & THAILAND<br />
SOUTHERN THAILAND<br />
3... 2... 1...<br />
CHAO LAY BOAT FLOATING FESTIVAL<br />
SAMUI<br />
JAZZ ON THE BEACH<br />
Six consecutive nights <strong>of</strong> world-class jazz<br />
return with a top line-up <strong>of</strong> domestic and<br />
international talent at beachside venues. The<br />
Samui Summer Jazz Festival <strong>2023</strong> will light<br />
up W Samui, Hansar Samui, Secret Garden<br />
Resort, SEEN Beach Club, Six Senses Samui,<br />
Santiburi Koh Samui, and Centara Reserve<br />
Koh Samui from <strong>May</strong> 2 to 7.<br />
The festival kicks <strong>of</strong>f with the sensational<br />
New York Grand Classics <strong>of</strong> Swing Orchestra<br />
leading a tour through the golden age <strong>of</strong> jazz.<br />
Other highlights on the musical menu are<br />
South American sax sensation Lucas Santana,<br />
Susanne Alt, the Sven Rozier Quintet featuring<br />
Lizzy Ossevoort, the Baer Traa Quintet,<br />
Alexander Beets, and Sound <strong>of</strong> Siam featuring<br />
the cream <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land’s vibrant jazz scene Koh<br />
Mr. Saxman, Pui Duangpon and more.<br />
The jazz fest is presented by SKÅL Samui<br />
and its charity partner Sisters on Samui (SOS),<br />
supported by Conrad Properties, Brother,<br />
Wattanapat Hospital, and <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong>.<br />
samuisummerjazz.com<br />
The Rocket Festival or Bun Bang Fai is held<br />
every year as a booming wakeup call to the rain<br />
gods. The festival blasts <strong>of</strong>f in Laos and across<br />
the North <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land in Roi Et, Yasothon, Chiang<br />
Rai and Nan – but the launch date varies from<br />
province to province.<br />
Men and women gather in fields on the<br />
outskirts <strong>of</strong> villages to light fuses on fearsome<br />
homemade missiles. The village that launches its<br />
rockets highest in the sky is declared winner. The<br />
rocket competition is held to praise the spirit <strong>of</strong><br />
the sky who generously provides rain to ensure<br />
a bountiful harvest.<br />
tourismlaos.org, tourismthailand.org<br />
This ancient sea ritual is an unmissable event<br />
if you happen to be visiting Satun, Krabi, or<br />
Phuket during <strong>May</strong>. The Chao Lay Boat Floating<br />
Festival is held twice a year at Koh Lipe in Satun,<br />
Rawai Beach and Sapam Village in Phuket, and<br />
Koh Lanta in Krabi. The local Urak Lawoi, an<br />
indigenous Malay people known as sea nomads,<br />
create intricately carved and colourful replicas<br />
<strong>of</strong> their fishing boats and set them adrift at<br />
night. The idea is to bring luck and ward <strong>of</strong>f bad<br />
spirits that might harm their fishing expeditions<br />
throughout the year.<br />
Little dolls along with fingernail clippings and<br />
strands <strong>of</strong> hair are added to the boats before<br />
they are set adrift. The festival culminates in the<br />
traditional Ram Rong Ngong dance as villagers<br />
bless their boats for the coming fishing season.<br />
tourismthailand.org<br />
PHUKET<br />
7-21 <strong>2023</strong><br />
MAY<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
SHAKING IT UP<br />
The Lion City is set to roar as the Singapore<br />
Cocktail Festival (SGCF) returns under the<br />
theme “Shaking Up New Possibilities”. The<br />
three-week booze bonanza is all about<br />
celebrating Asia’s best cocktails with a total <strong>of</strong><br />
45 bars showcasing old favourites and new<br />
inventions from <strong>May</strong> 5 to 7.<br />
The festival will kickstart with a party<br />
in the heart <strong>of</strong> the city. Expect a line-up <strong>of</strong><br />
prizewinning bartenders, top watering holes,<br />
brand pop-ups, and artisanal spirit-tasting<br />
booths, all in one place.<br />
www.singaporecocktailfestival.com<br />
Mid <strong>May</strong><br />
20-21 <strong>2023</strong><br />
MAY<br />
BABA WEDDING<br />
Brides, grooms and crowds <strong>of</strong> well-wishers take<br />
part in the exquisite Peranakan or Baba-style<br />
mass wedding every year. The Phuket Baba<br />
Wedding festival showcases elaborate marriage<br />
traditions adopted by <strong>Thai</strong>s <strong>of</strong> Chinese heritage<br />
in the elegant Sino-Portuguese mansions tucked<br />
away in Phuket’s Old Town.<br />
Unique wedding attire is just one fascinating<br />
feature <strong>of</strong> traditional Baba weddings. The bride<br />
wears a colourful, long lace tunic or kebaya<br />
coupled with the Pate – a Malay-style batik<br />
sarong – and a set <strong>of</strong> traditional gold necklaces,<br />
brooches, anklets, and beaded sandals. Grooms<br />
are <strong>of</strong>ten decked out in white or tan-coloured<br />
vintage western suits, a nod to the influence<br />
<strong>of</strong> Western traders during Phuket’s tin mining<br />
heyday. Street celebrations and a colourful<br />
parade give well-wishers a chance to admire the<br />
newlyweds in their finery. +66 (0) 81 691 1955,<br />
www.facebook.com/Phuketbabawedding<br />
16-22 <strong>2023</strong><br />
MAY<br />
Photo: Singapore Cocktail Festival<br />
CHIANG MAI<br />
INTHAKHIN CITY PILLAR SHRINE<br />
King Mengrai had the Inthakhin pillar<br />
erected to mark the founding <strong>of</strong> Chiang Mai<br />
in 1296. The pillar was then moved from its<br />
original home at Wat Inthakhin to Wat Chedi<br />
Luang in the heart <strong>of</strong> Chiang Mai City in the<br />
1800s. Each year, the city celebrates the<br />
advent <strong>of</strong> rainy season by worshipping this<br />
sacred monument.<br />
After a period <strong>of</strong> dry spells and drought,<br />
locals welcome the arrival <strong>of</strong> life-giving rain<br />
with colourful celebrations and a major<br />
merit-making ceremony at the temple as<br />
they pray for bountiful rice crops and a<br />
healthy harvest. tatcontactcenter.com/en<br />
Photos: The <strong>Thai</strong> Peranakan Association<br />
12 13
OVERTURES<br />
NEWS AND EVENTS<br />
20-27<br />
SAMUI<br />
MAY<br />
<strong>2023</strong><br />
SAMUI REGATTA<br />
Since its launch in 2002, Samui Regatta has<br />
grown to attract the best yachts in Asia and a<br />
large following keen to experience sensational<br />
sailing, great parties and everything else<br />
the island has to <strong>of</strong>fer. The regatta is a truly<br />
international event with around 500 competitors<br />
participating from two-dozen countries.<br />
This year, the regatta is back at Chaweng Beach<br />
but the social events will be spread around the<br />
whole island. www.samuiregatta.com<br />
22-24<br />
JUN<br />
<strong>2023</strong><br />
SINGAPORE<br />
DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL<br />
Dragon Boat racing dates back to ancient<br />
China. Today, the races are held across Asia and<br />
even worldwide as a colourful celebration <strong>of</strong><br />
teamwork, competitive spirit and athleticism.<br />
The large Chinese community in Singapore<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers one <strong>of</strong> the best examples <strong>of</strong> the<br />
spectacular sport with its annual Dragon Boat<br />
Festival.<br />
Visitors from around world flock to Bedok<br />
Reservoir, the Kallang River, and Gardens by the<br />
Bay to get a good view <strong>of</strong> the action. Amid the<br />
fast and furious boat racing, people toss rice<br />
dumplings wrapped in banana leaves into the<br />
water, inspired by an ancient legend. sdba.org.sg<br />
Photos: Samui Regatta<br />
3 <strong>2023</strong><br />
JUN<br />
THROUGHOUT THE REGION<br />
VISAKHA BUCHA<br />
Marking the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment and<br />
death, Visakha Bucha in <strong>Thai</strong>land takes place<br />
on the full moon <strong>of</strong> the sixth lunar month.<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> Buddhists flock to temples to pray, listen<br />
to sermons and make merit in the sacred<br />
atmosphere <strong>of</strong> this special day.<br />
The evening brings candlelit processions<br />
as devotees walk clockwise three times around<br />
the temple, celebrating the triple jewels <strong>of</strong><br />
Buddhism — the Buddha, his teachings, and the<br />
sangha or monkhood.<br />
Visakha Bucha Day is also marked in Laos<br />
as Vixakha Bouxa, Malaysia as Hari Wesak,<br />
Singapore as Vesak, Vietnam as Phat Dan, and<br />
Cambodia as Visak Bochea.<br />
A no-alcohol rule means pubs and bars are<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten closed on Visakha Bucha Day.<br />
14
OVERTURES<br />
THAILAND TREASURES<br />
Chiang Mai:<br />
Lanna from Heaven<br />
Words: Phoowadon Duangmee<br />
Lifting the lid on<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> northern culture<br />
Steeped in rich heritage and cuisine<br />
from its days as a kingdom’s capital,<br />
this historical city also buzzes with<br />
contemporary culture.<br />
Founded in a mountain valley in 1296,<br />
Chiang Mai is the former capital city <strong>of</strong><br />
the Lanna kingdom. Ancient temples,<br />
elaborate craftwork, traditional foods,<br />
scenic mountains and a laid-back attitude<br />
– Chiang Mai has kept its charm while still<br />
flowing with the times. Visitors can enjoy<br />
an array <strong>of</strong> leisure activities or simply stroll<br />
around Chiang Mai’s Old City, where they<br />
will discover the moated quarter crammed<br />
with historic wats (temples), chill-out cafés,<br />
restaurants, and stylish boutique hotels.<br />
Get to grips with its history at the<br />
Chiang Mai Arts and Culture Centre, set<br />
inside the old Provincial Hall. This museum<br />
provides an excellent overview <strong>of</strong> Chiang<br />
Mai’s journey from the first simple wooden<br />
settlement to a busy modern metropolis,<br />
using dioramas, photos, artefacts, and<br />
audio-visual displays. Just like travel, the<br />
journey through history and culture opens<br />
new vistas and encourages us to think<br />
beyond ourselves. Visitors are catapulted<br />
back to the present at the Maiiam<br />
Contemporary Art Museum, located half<br />
an hour’s drive away in San Kamphaeng.<br />
The 150-baht entry fee give access to a<br />
feast <strong>of</strong> modern and contemporary art by<br />
local and international artists.<br />
Chiang Mai served as the seat <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Lanna kingdom for 266 years, from 1292<br />
to 1558. Today, the Chiang Mai Old City<br />
still resonates with Lanna customs, arts,<br />
architectural achievements and distinct<br />
flavours. Temple hopping is a favourite<br />
way <strong>of</strong> touring the moated city. But if you<br />
don’t want to spend too much time in<br />
too many places, Wat Phra Singh is the<br />
destination to head for. With its ancient<br />
pagoda, library buildings, Wiharn Lai<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Right<br />
The Wiharn Lai<br />
Kham houses Phra<br />
Singh Buddha<br />
Maiiam<br />
Contemporary Art<br />
Museum shines with<br />
cutting-edge art<br />
An art exhibition<br />
at Maiiam<br />
Chiang Mai Arts and<br />
Culture Centre<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Right<br />
Wat Phra Singh is a<br />
gleaming showcase<br />
<strong>of</strong> Lanna art and<br />
architecture<br />
Jing Jai Farmers’<br />
Market<br />
Warorot Market<br />
Kham (Golden Monastery), and Phra Singh<br />
(the most beautiful Buddha in <strong>Thai</strong>land’s<br />
North), Wat Phra Singh is a gleaming<br />
showcase <strong>of</strong> Lanna art and architecture.<br />
Once you’ve investigated the heart <strong>of</strong><br />
Chiang Mai’s heritage, the markets should<br />
be a-calling. Warorot Market (Kad Luang)<br />
and Ton Lamyai Market – two connecting<br />
foodie paradises along the Ping River – are<br />
beloved <strong>of</strong> locals and visitors who come to<br />
pick up anything from “sai oua” sausage,<br />
pork crackling and “nam phrik num” (green<br />
chilli dip) to free-range chicken and cannon<br />
ball-sized avocados.<br />
Open Saturday and Sunday from<br />
6.30am to 2pm, Jing Jai Farmers’ Market<br />
Chiang Mai lays out a feast <strong>of</strong> fresh<br />
organic products. Farmers, bakers, grocers<br />
and artisans sell their fresh vegetables and<br />
treats to chatty locals and tourists, who<br />
take serious pleasure in discussing the<br />
origin <strong>of</strong> their foods.<br />
Chiang Mai is a spellbinding city<br />
with incredible local arts, boutique shops<br />
and arts scene. But even more magic<br />
reverberates from small communities inside<br />
and beyond the old city, where artisans<br />
carry on centuries-old artistic traditions.<br />
16 17
OVERTURES<br />
THAILAND TREASURES<br />
Clockwise from Top<br />
Tha Phae Sunday<br />
Walking Street comes<br />
alive with the sights,<br />
sounds and scents <strong>of</strong><br />
Chiang Mai<br />
The atmosphere <strong>of</strong><br />
Baan Khang Wat<br />
A weekend market in<br />
Chiang Mai<br />
The latest hangout<br />
spot along the<br />
Mae Kha Canal<br />
Silversmiths live in the temple<br />
neighbourhood around Wat Si Suphan<br />
– where they have left their mark in the<br />
elaborate silver ordination hall. Every<br />
Saturday evening, local artisans can be<br />
found on Wua Lai Walking Street plying<br />
their silverware, artworks and other<br />
precious handicrafts. Or head to the<br />
Tha Phae Gate on Sunday evenings to<br />
see the Tha Phae Sunday Walking Street<br />
come alive with the sights, sounds, and<br />
scents <strong>of</strong> Lanna heritage. If you can’t<br />
wait until the weekend, treat yourself at<br />
Baan Khang Wat. The “craft village” just<br />
a short ride from the Suan Dok Gate<br />
is a great place to discover handmade<br />
creations, from silver jewellery, basketry,<br />
celadon, and silverware to lacquerware,<br />
woodcarvings and parasols.<br />
While you’re in Chiang Mai, a stroll<br />
along the Mae Kha Canal is not to be<br />
missed. The one-kilometre section <strong>of</strong><br />
walkway known as “Otaru Canal” for its<br />
Japanese-themed waterfront is the city’s<br />
newest landmark. Once Chiang Mai’s<br />
dirtiest waterway, it’s now been cleaned<br />
up and pedestrianised to make more<br />
room for outdoor living and green public<br />
space. Today, the beautiful waterway<br />
is car and hawker-free, with bars,<br />
souvenir shops, and craft stalls, as well<br />
as restaurants, making it an ideal place to<br />
stop for food and shopping before calling<br />
it a day.<br />
18
OVERTURES<br />
A TASTE OF THAILAND<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> food is a delectable, enchanting<br />
adventure for many people. Created<br />
from the simplest ingredients, this<br />
renowned cuisine features a unique<br />
and almost endless menu <strong>of</strong> dishes<br />
that reflects culinary wisdom passed<br />
on from generation to generation.<br />
To pick a favourite <strong>Thai</strong> dish can<br />
be difficult as there are so many<br />
delicious choices with the power to<br />
not only delight the palate but also<br />
bring health benefits. Gaeng Liang is<br />
a perfect example.<br />
The peppery vegetable soup is a<br />
popular <strong>Thai</strong> recipe, especially among<br />
the older generation. Apart from its<br />
key ingredients <strong>of</strong> peppercorns and<br />
lemon basil leaves, the soup is rich<br />
in assorted vegetables and various<br />
gourds – bottle, cucumber, or ivy<br />
gourds – all known for their cooling<br />
effect. Gaeng Liang is therefore among<br />
the top choices when it comes to<br />
healthy recipes as it balances the<br />
body and stimulates digestion. Also<br />
known as mommy’s booster for its<br />
legendary ability to boost breast<br />
milk, this delicious soup regulates<br />
the body’s elements according to<br />
traditional Chinese medicine. You<br />
could even call it a super-food, packed<br />
with a variety <strong>of</strong> different benefits.<br />
To recreate the fragrance and<br />
perfectly balanced flavours <strong>of</strong> this<br />
classic recipe, you need a dried<br />
shrimp curry paste accompanied by<br />
shrimp paste, garlic, and peppercorns.<br />
The broth should not be too clear<br />
or too thick, but infused with the<br />
rich complexity <strong>of</strong> salty, sweet, and<br />
peppery flavours that go so well with<br />
a hearty plateful <strong>of</strong> steaming rice.<br />
Gaeng Liang’s ingredients may<br />
change depending on availability and<br />
locality. The local greens are usually what<br />
gives the soup its different varieties.<br />
Choices range from young galangal,<br />
baby corn and luffa to straw mushrooms<br />
and pumpkin, while the protein usually<br />
comes from fresh prawns.<br />
A Recipe<br />
for Health<br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land’s legendary Gaeng Liang<br />
soup <strong>of</strong>fers potent peppery<br />
flavours with mouth-watering<br />
medical benefits<br />
Inspired by the simplicity coupled with<br />
nourishing power <strong>of</strong> Gaeng Liang, chef<br />
Rosarin Sriprathum <strong>of</strong> Celadon has crafted<br />
Gaeng Liang Phak Plang (Malabar spinach)<br />
with crab meat and fresh prawns.<br />
Ingredients<br />
• Shrimp paste<br />
• Dried shrimps<br />
• Shallots<br />
• Coriander roots<br />
• Straw mushrooms, halved<br />
• 5 bird’s-eye chillis, crushed<br />
• Pumpkin<br />
• Lemon basil<br />
• Baby corn<br />
• Phak Plang or Malabar spinach<br />
• Fingerroot<br />
• Crab meat<br />
• White prawns<br />
• Fish sauce<br />
• White peppercorns<br />
Preparation<br />
Pound shallots, fingerroot, coriander roots<br />
and white peppercorns into a smooth<br />
paste.<br />
Add dried shrimps and shrimp paste and<br />
pound until the shrimps and paste are well<br />
mixed.<br />
Place paste in a large pot <strong>of</strong> water and<br />
bring to the boil.<br />
Immediately add Malabar spinach, crab<br />
meat, and prawns before bringing the pot<br />
back to a gentle boil.<br />
Add a tablespoon <strong>of</strong> fish sauce to the<br />
broth.<br />
Once the prawns are cooked through, turn<br />
<strong>of</strong>f the heat immediately.<br />
Open daily 6-11pm, Celadon, The Sukhothai<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> 13/3 South Sathorn Road, sukhothai.<br />
com, +66 (0) 2344 8888<br />
WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA<br />
20 21
OVERTURES<br />
FRUITFUL FINDS<br />
Delicate Flavours<br />
Under a Scaly Skin<br />
Don’t judge a fruit by its cover – or you might miss out on a delicious new taste sensation<br />
Don’t be fooled by the unappetising<br />
reddish-brown scaly skin: the flesh<br />
<strong>of</strong> the snake fruit packs a unique<br />
sweet and tangy punch.<br />
Originally native to Java and<br />
Sumatra in Indonesia, the snake<br />
fruit or “sala” as it is known in<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> can now be found all over<br />
the South <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land and in most<br />
Southeast Asian countries.<br />
This unlikely fruit, which<br />
bursts forth from the salak palm<br />
tree in little bunches, is not much<br />
bigger than a fig and looks like a<br />
large clove <strong>of</strong> garlic when peeled.<br />
However, when you bite into the<br />
juicy flesh, prepare to be surprised<br />
by a complex honey-like sweetness<br />
reminiscent <strong>of</strong> apples, bananas<br />
and pineapples – with a hint <strong>of</strong><br />
apple cider. The flesh surrounds an<br />
inedible seed, which can be grown<br />
as an attractive houseplant.<br />
You can eat the fruit on its<br />
own or dipped in the chilli, salt and<br />
sugar mix that is <strong>of</strong>ten served with<br />
cut fruit in <strong>Thai</strong>land. The fruit also<br />
pops up on <strong>Thai</strong> restaurants’ hot-<br />
season dessert menus as “loi kaew”<br />
or “fruit in syrup”. Chilled in a light<br />
syrup and served over crushed ice,<br />
loi kaew is the perfect antidote for<br />
the tropical heat.<br />
Apart from being enjoyed fresh,<br />
the snake fruit is also used to make<br />
candy, juice, wine and even as an<br />
ingredient in savoury dishes like red<br />
curry or tom yum.<br />
Snake fruit has also gained<br />
a reputation as a superfood that<br />
comes brimming with nutrients<br />
beneficial to health. Packed with<br />
antioxidants, its succulent flesh<br />
is thought to help slow down<br />
the ageing process if consumed<br />
regularly. Some believe it can even<br />
help prevent conditions that lead to<br />
a variety <strong>of</strong> different diseases.<br />
WORDS JAN THAMMAPAKKUL PHOTO & STYLE SAMATCHA APAISUWAN<br />
.<br />
22
OVERTURES<br />
JUST DESSERT<br />
Let the<br />
Sweet<br />
Balls Roll<br />
Discover the delicious<br />
smoky secret hidden inside<br />
Khanom Tom<br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land’s delectable sweet rice balls, or Khanom<br />
Tom, are tasty little treasures with an outer layer<br />
<strong>of</strong> crispy shredded coconut and a s<strong>of</strong>t, chewy<br />
centre. Each bite fills the palate with a rich,<br />
perfectly balanced flavour and texture.<br />
The balls, which date back to the Sukhothai<br />
Kingdom, are stuffed with a mixture called “Kra<br />
Cheek”, made from stir-fried palm sugar and<br />
overripe coconut. This filling is shaped into lumps<br />
before being perfumed with a scented candle – a<br />
traditional <strong>Thai</strong> dessert-making method in which<br />
the long wick <strong>of</strong> a beeswax candle is lit and placed<br />
between sweets packed in a glass jar. Once the<br />
flame reaches the wax candle, it is put out, leaving<br />
a musky smoky aroma to infuse the sweets.<br />
The sweets can be smoked in this way for an hour<br />
or even overnight. The result is the classic aromatic<br />
Kra Cheek filling.<br />
Once smoked, the filling is wrapped with a<br />
dough made <strong>of</strong> glutinous rice flour and coconut milk.<br />
The pastel colours <strong>of</strong> Khanom Tom come from a<br />
variety <strong>of</strong> natural flavourings – purple from butterfly<br />
pea, green from pandan, and pink from roselle. The<br />
dough is then kneaded into tiny balls before being<br />
dropped into boiling water. When the balls rise to<br />
the top, they are rolled in shredded coconut and are<br />
ready to serve as soon as they cool down.<br />
Khanom Tom can be found in almost all <strong>Thai</strong><br />
dessert shops as well as fresh markets and food<br />
bazaars in department stores.<br />
WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA<br />
24
OVERTURES<br />
ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS<br />
At Home in the<br />
Magical Forest<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> artist Verapat Sitipol loses himself in<br />
the wonder <strong>of</strong> Kanchanaburi to reveal our<br />
ancient connection with Mother Nature<br />
THE ART OF EXPLORATION<br />
Art and nature have always been<br />
inseparably connected. Nature is the<br />
revered Mother <strong>of</strong> creation that brings<br />
forth inspiration and beauty. FAH THAI<br />
interviewed Verapat Sitipol, an artist<br />
who passionately combines his skills as a<br />
painter with the beauty <strong>of</strong> nature to create<br />
vivid reinterpretations <strong>of</strong> his surroundings.<br />
We also found a variety <strong>of</strong> cultural venues<br />
for people <strong>of</strong> all ages to explore.<br />
Opposite Page<br />
Verapat ushers us into<br />
his little kingdom <strong>of</strong><br />
creativity — his studio<br />
Right<br />
Season Changing at<br />
Mae Ya Falls, oil on<br />
linen, 2022<br />
Below<br />
Blessings from<br />
the Forest, oil on<br />
linen, 2021<br />
Verapat Sitipol discovered the secret<br />
<strong>of</strong> art early in life, as a student at Silpakorn<br />
University’s Faculty <strong>of</strong> Decorative Arts,<br />
Applied Arts. He came to the realisation<br />
that learning about old masters was only<br />
the first step; to become a true artist he<br />
had to spread his creative wings and find<br />
his own unique self-expression. When<br />
given the opportunity to exercise his inner<br />
creative passion, the <strong>Thai</strong> artist turned not<br />
to words or personal emotions. Instead,<br />
he wanted to share the beauty and<br />
interconnectedness <strong>of</strong> the natural world<br />
as seen through a different looking glass.<br />
That desire grew into a passion when<br />
Verapat decided to bid adieu to <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
and call Kanchanaburi his home 20 years<br />
ago. He has nurtured his creative flame<br />
here for the past two decades, lighting<br />
up galleries in <strong>Thai</strong>land and beyond with<br />
his visions <strong>of</strong> the western province. In<br />
February and March, he displayed his<br />
latest works in a solo exhibition at Over<br />
the Influence art gallery in Paris.<br />
THERE’S A PATTERN OF FREEDOM<br />
AND FUN IN YOUR COLOUR<br />
CHOICES. LANDSCAPE IS ALSO<br />
IMPORTANT TO YOU. SO, WHAT<br />
IS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN<br />
PLACES AND THE VIVID COLOURS<br />
YOU USE TO PAINT THEM?<br />
To me, the use <strong>of</strong> colour in my painting<br />
is a musical melody. Every time I draw or<br />
but I’m not the type that has to look at<br />
the subject for inspiration. It could be the<br />
overall ambience that facilitates the transit<br />
to nature, and yet I might not realise that.<br />
HAVE YOU ALWAYS BEEN DRAWN<br />
TO ABSTRACT ART, OR IS IT<br />
SOMETHING THAT HAS EVOLVED<br />
WITH YOUR PRACTICE?<br />
paint, I get the impression that I’m actually<br />
It’s interesting that you view my work as<br />
composing beautiful colour pieces. Nature<br />
abstract, since to me it is clearly landscape<br />
is my inspiration when it comes to the<br />
painting. The reason may be that I’ve never<br />
choice <strong>of</strong> colour. It brings freedom and<br />
painted by looking at the subject – except<br />
liveliness, but at the same time there’s this<br />
for some stuff, for fun. I don’t even do<br />
sense <strong>of</strong> peaceful stillness in all rhythms.<br />
sketches, as my work is not based on<br />
The scenery in my work is not just my<br />
shape. It comes from these smooth-gliding<br />
painting’s subject or temporary inspiration.<br />
feelings that well up from inside. They co-<br />
All the flora and fauna, the leaves, the<br />
exist with the surrounding nature, which<br />
mountains – everything is in my bones. My<br />
in turn ignites creativity and improves the<br />
studio may be surrounded by lush forests,<br />
work. The process is certainly a synthesis<br />
28<br />
29
OVERTURES<br />
ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS<br />
Photo Courtesy: Over the Influence<br />
GOLDEN SANCTUARY<br />
Luang Prabang is a gleaming jewel <strong>of</strong> contradictions. The town<br />
is a backpackers’ haven but also a peaceful sanctuary that lures<br />
travellers <strong>of</strong> all ages from across the world. Apart from the pristine<br />
scenery and locals’ kindness, Luang Prabang’s gleaming palaces <strong>of</strong><br />
worship are what people come here to discover. Wat Pa Phon Phao<br />
or the Peacefulness Temple, for instance, is a peak experience for<br />
many visitors. Located atop a small hill, the temple <strong>of</strong>fers panoramic<br />
views <strong>of</strong> the mountains and surrounding villages. Turn around on<br />
the outside terrace and you can feast your eyes on its glowing<br />
golden Santi Chedi (Peace Pagoda). Don’t miss the brightly painted<br />
murals illustrating the story <strong>of</strong> the Buddha and moral admonitions.<br />
Free admission, V5M2+67F, 13, Luang Prabang, Laos<br />
<strong>of</strong> the abstract. The conclusion <strong>of</strong> that<br />
creative performance and the appearance<br />
do not matter. I don’t pay much attention<br />
to those things.<br />
WHAT MESSAGE IS YOUR ART<br />
TRYING TO CONVEY?<br />
The same one that nature whispers to us:<br />
simple, yet wonderful. In my latest work,<br />
“Magical Forest”, my focus is on climate<br />
change. I borrowed inspiration from the<br />
shape <strong>of</strong> rivers and waterfalls – these are<br />
a common sight in <strong>Thai</strong>land – as the key to<br />
reflecting the Earth’s serene, lush fertility<br />
that is disappearing gradually. This is a<br />
reminder to ourselves about whether we<br />
still need nature, and how much we need<br />
it. Technological progress is making our life<br />
more convenient. But at the same time,<br />
our beloved nature, which has always been<br />
our one true friend, is disappearing.<br />
Top Left<br />
Some pieces from his<br />
Magical Forest Exhibition<br />
held in March at the Over<br />
the Influence Gallery<br />
in Paris<br />
Top Right<br />
Verapat’s Magical Forest<br />
Exhibition at Over the<br />
Influence Gallery in Paris<br />
ARE YOU WORKING ON ANY<br />
EXCITING NEW PROJECTS?<br />
The most exciting project for me right now<br />
is to give this interview, and to see my<br />
work published in media. When I was a<br />
kid, I dreamt I would be on the plane and<br />
that came true. But having my artwork<br />
published in an in-flight magazine? That’s<br />
another level. It is exciting and I’m proud <strong>of</strong><br />
that achievement.<br />
WHO OR WHAT ARE YOUR<br />
BIGGEST INFLUENCES?<br />
I’d say my family, the natural surroundings,<br />
and myself.<br />
See more <strong>of</strong> Verapat’s art and updates on Instagram: verapatsitipol<br />
WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM<br />
YOUR NEXT PROJECT?<br />
Sensitivity and intensity in terms <strong>of</strong> artistic<br />
techniques, and a deeper meaning.<br />
Bottom Right<br />
The artist captured in his<br />
element at home studio in<br />
Kanchanaburi, <strong>Thai</strong>land<br />
Kiddy<br />
Land<br />
Learning occurs at any stage <strong>of</strong> life, but wasn’t it<br />
more wonderful and fun when you were young?<br />
With wide eyes and playful curiosity, children’s<br />
minds wander joyfully from one place to another<br />
and dive straight into anything that interests them. As school break<br />
approaches, parents may be looking for places that are not only fun but<br />
also help enrich their kids’ spirit <strong>of</strong> adventure and lust for learning. Let’s<br />
check out some <strong>of</strong> the best!<br />
VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY<br />
Children’s Museum Singapore maintains this colonial school’s former<br />
life as a place <strong>of</strong> learning with a colourful and playful environment<br />
dedicated to children aged 12 and under. “A Voyage Back in Time”, the<br />
museum’s permanent exhibition, features an immersive theatre that<br />
tells the history <strong>of</strong> Singapore, while the special exhibition “Imagine A<br />
Garden” presents beautiful native flora and fauna as paper sculptures.<br />
Children’s Museum Singapore features a wide range <strong>of</strong> other activities<br />
that promote kids’ cultural learning and friendship-building in a fun,<br />
interesting, and safe environment.<br />
Advance booking is required. Admission fee is S$15 per adult, $10 per<br />
child. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 23-B Coleman Street, Singapore, www.nhb.<br />
gov.sg/childrensmuseum<br />
ADVENTURE LEARNING<br />
Children are full <strong>of</strong> energy and quick to learn. With the right place and<br />
the right method, their horizons can broaden to new worlds. Hong<br />
Kong Children’s Discovery Museum has found just the right formula<br />
with a play-based learning environment for everyone, especially children<br />
aged 10 and under. Launched in March, the brand-new 5,500 sqft<br />
museum houses more than 30 customised and interactive exhibitions<br />
in eight themed exhibition zones. Its mission is to get children to enjoy<br />
learning through fun and play in the areas <strong>of</strong> language and literacy,<br />
Science, Technology, Engineering, Art and Mathematics (STEAM) as<br />
well as environmental awareness. The themed zones take little visitors<br />
on a journey through the wonders <strong>of</strong> their surroundings, making their own<br />
discoveries and creations along with developing essential abilities <strong>of</strong><br />
creativity, problem-solving, and social skills as they go.<br />
Shop E (G/F) & 1/F, Island Walk, 163 Shau Kei Wan Road, Hong Kong,<br />
www.childrensdiscoverymuseum.hk/en/about-cdm<br />
30<br />
31
OVERTURES<br />
TECH TALK<br />
Essential Travel Tech<br />
Words: Richard Augustin<br />
The hottest new gadgets to boost all aspects <strong>of</strong><br />
your life — from fitness and business to leisure and creativity<br />
THROUGH MICKEY’S EYES<br />
LEICA Q2 DISNEY “100<br />
YEARS OF WONDER”<br />
Leica has adorned its popular<br />
Q2 model with a custom design<br />
to celebrate Disney’s 100th<br />
birthday. The Leica Q2 Disney<br />
“100 Years <strong>of</strong> Wonder” sees the<br />
35mm digital compact camera<br />
decked out in a special Mickey<br />
Mouse print reminiscent <strong>of</strong><br />
the tracing paper used by<br />
original animators and artists.<br />
Mickey is also spotted on the<br />
camera’s top plate with the Disney<br />
logo and edition number engraved on<br />
the back display glass. Limited to 500<br />
units worldwide. Price: 230,000 baht /<br />
leica-camera.com<br />
ALL-ROUNDER DEVICE<br />
ASUS VIVOBOOK 13 SLATE OLED<br />
Built for performance and entertainment,<br />
the ASUS Vivobook 13 Slate OLED is one<br />
device that travellers will want to take on<br />
their next trip. The 2-in-1 laptop features<br />
a 13.3-inch detachable OLED Dolby<br />
Vision Pantone Validated touchscreen<br />
along with a quad-speaker Dolby Atmos<br />
Sound System. Creativity is a cinch<br />
with the handy ASUS Pen 2.0, an MPP<br />
2.0-compliant stylus, four swappable<br />
tips, and convenient one-click Bluetooth<br />
functions via a shortcut button. A speedy<br />
new eight-core Intel Core processor<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers faster performance and improved<br />
battery life. Price: 19,990 baht /<br />
asus.com/th<br />
SMART & STYLISH<br />
GARMIN VIVOMOVE TREND<br />
Torn between a traditional timepiece<br />
and a smartwatch? Well, Garmin<br />
has sorted this problem out with its<br />
vivomove Trend, which combines a<br />
classic analogue watch with smart<br />
functionality. The hybrid device <strong>of</strong>fers<br />
wearers a stylish way <strong>of</strong> staying<br />
connected along with health and<br />
fitness trackability. Pair it with an<br />
Apple or Android phone to receive text<br />
messages and notifications on the wrist.<br />
The vivomove Trend <strong>of</strong>fers five-day<br />
battery life in smartwatch mode and<br />
can conveniently charge wirelessly with<br />
most Qi-certified charging pads.<br />
Price: 9,990 baht / garmin.com/th<br />
CLEAN AIR,<br />
CRISP SOUND<br />
DYSON ZONE<br />
The Dyson Zone is engineered to tackle the<br />
challenges <strong>of</strong> city noise and air pollution,<br />
<strong>of</strong>fering wearers up to 50 hours <strong>of</strong> ultra-low<br />
distortion, advanced noise cancellation and<br />
faithful audio representation. However, it’s<br />
not just top sound quality the headphones<br />
aim to provide. Dyson Zone is also able<br />
to capture up to 99% <strong>of</strong> fine-particle air<br />
pollution through a high-efficiency<br />
filtration set-up. Crafted for<br />
comfort and a perfect fit,<br />
the device also comes with<br />
dual microphones and noise<br />
suppression technology for<br />
voice calls, recording and<br />
control. Price: Starts from<br />
33,000 baht / dyson.co.th<br />
GRADE-A<br />
PERFORMANCE<br />
SAMSUNG<br />
GALAXY A54 5G<br />
Premium specs without<br />
the scary price is how<br />
we would describe the<br />
new Samsung Galaxy<br />
A54, which packs<br />
flagship performance.<br />
With a four-camera<br />
set-up including a<br />
32MP front camera,<br />
the smartphone<br />
comes with enhanced<br />
features such as “night-o-graphy”, AI<br />
capabilities, Enhanced Object Eraser<br />
and IP67-certification for water and<br />
dust resistance. As for performance,<br />
it boasts a 6.4-inch immersive<br />
Super AMOLED display, fast<br />
5G connectivity, long-lasting<br />
battery and advanced mobile<br />
security with Samsung Knox,<br />
among others.<br />
Price: From 15,000 baht /<br />
samsung.com/th<br />
AIR APPARENT<br />
OPPO PAD AIR<br />
Whether it’s for keeping<br />
up with social media, news,<br />
the latest television shows,<br />
or just reading a novel, the sleek<br />
and slim Oppo Pad Air is a perfect travel<br />
companion. Powered by a Snapdragon 680 chipset and<br />
sporting a 10-inch 2K display along with quad Dolby<br />
Atmos speakers, the tablet <strong>of</strong>fers formidable features<br />
for today’s users. With a long-lasting 7100mAh battery<br />
and a choice <strong>of</strong> 4GB+64GB as well as 4GB+128GB<br />
configurations with 3GB <strong>of</strong> extended RAM, it’s also not<br />
short on power. Price: 10,000 baht / oppo.com/th<br />
CONFERENCES ON THE GO<br />
AUDEZE FILTER<br />
Working remotely is the norm these days, and<br />
with that in mind, Audeze has created the Filter,<br />
a new portable conference speakerphone with<br />
artificially intelligent microphones. Thanks to the<br />
brand’s patented noise cancellation technology<br />
and magnetic speakers, the Filter can be used to<br />
communicate in perfect clarity in any environment.<br />
Plus, weighing just 280 grams and no bigger than<br />
a smartphone, the Filter can be easily transported.<br />
A full charge provides over 15 hours <strong>of</strong><br />
playback via USB and Bluetooth<br />
5.0. Price: 10,200 baht<br />
/ audeze.com<br />
FACE MATTERS<br />
THERABODY THERAFACE PRO<br />
After building a reputation in fitness as well as<br />
portable massage guns, Therabody is expanding its<br />
presence in the realm <strong>of</strong> beauty. Its new TheraFace<br />
Pro uses percussion technology to reduce tension<br />
and relax facial muscles. And with the addition<br />
<strong>of</strong> silicone, a multi-spectrum LED light ring<br />
as well as heat and cryo attachments, users<br />
can enjoy skin-toning and rejuvenating<br />
therapies even when they’re busy jetting<br />
across the world. Price: 13,618 baht / goxip.co.th<br />
FITNESS BUDDY<br />
CASIO MOVE<br />
GBD-H2000<br />
Adding to its line <strong>of</strong> tough<br />
G-Shock watches, Casio<br />
has unveiled the new sports-driven G-Squad<br />
timepiece <strong>of</strong>fering support for multiple sports<br />
and workouts. Kitted with GPS functionality<br />
plus heart rate, accelerometer, gyroscope and<br />
other sensors, the GBD-H2000 tracks fitness,<br />
distance, speed and other metrics for running,<br />
biking, swimming and more. Users can pair the<br />
watch with the Casio Watch app to review<br />
their workout data. It’s also tough, lightweight<br />
and comes with solar-assisted charging.<br />
Price: 14,700 baht / casio.com/th<br />
THE SOUND OF LUXURY<br />
LOUIS VUITTON HORIZON LIGHT UP<br />
EARPHONES<br />
Though known for leather goods, Louis Vuitton is now<br />
flexing its creative muscle in the field <strong>of</strong> technology.<br />
The brand’s latest <strong>of</strong>fering is third-generation exclusive<br />
wireless earphones, named Horizon Light Up. Inspired<br />
by the Tambour watch, the stylish earphones come in<br />
a luxury charging case or “on-the-go” alternative travel<br />
case. Sporting design codes typical <strong>of</strong> the French brand’s<br />
aesthetics, the earphones are built on a lightweight<br />
aluminium frame for minimum in-ear impact and<br />
are activated by a wear sensor. Price: 55,800 baht /<br />
th.louisvuitton.com<br />
SMART SHADES<br />
OWNDAYS X HUAWEI SMART<br />
AUDIO GLASSES<br />
Japanese eyewear brand Owndays<br />
has teamed up with tech giant Huawei<br />
to create a nifty pair <strong>of</strong> smart glasses.<br />
Marrying Owndays’ expertise in opticals<br />
with Huawei’s cutting-edge technology,<br />
the glasses boast a sleek, minimalist<br />
design that not only correct the wearer’s<br />
vision but also allows them to listen<br />
to music or take calls. The eyewear<br />
is designed with built-in directional<br />
speakers delivering supreme audio<br />
quality and smart touch control to skip<br />
tracks, control volume and take calls.<br />
Price: 10,195 baht / owndays.com/th<br />
32 33
DREAM ISLAND<br />
Koh Samui<br />
Springs Back<br />
to Life<br />
Serene<br />
powdery sands,<br />
pulsing nightlife and fantastic<br />
food are back on the tourism<br />
menu – with an upgrade<br />
Words & Photos: Loren Infeld & shutterstock<br />
34<br />
35
DREAM ISLAND<br />
As the world emerges from three<br />
years <strong>of</strong> COVID winter, the tropical<br />
holiday island <strong>of</strong> Koh Samui has<br />
blossomed back to life brighter<br />
than ever. Koh Samui, one <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land’s<br />
most beautiful and diverse islands, is a<br />
stunning destination for travellers seeking<br />
a luxurious and relaxing getaway. From<br />
gorgeous beach resorts to adventure sports<br />
to world-class restaurants, Koh Samui has<br />
something for everyone. Whether you are<br />
looking for an active holiday or just want<br />
to soak up the sun on an idyllic beach, this<br />
island has it all.<br />
Top<br />
Fun activities like<br />
jet-skiing, jet boots<br />
and flyboarding are<br />
<strong>of</strong>fered at Chaweng,<br />
Lamai, and<br />
Lipa Noi beaches<br />
Bottom<br />
A panoramic view<br />
<strong>of</strong> a palm-fringed<br />
beach on Koh Samui<br />
Opposite<br />
The Big Buddha, one<br />
<strong>of</strong> Koh Samui’s most<br />
iconic landmarks<br />
Although <strong>Thai</strong> tourism has not yet<br />
fully recovered after the blow <strong>of</strong><br />
pandemic travel restrictions, you<br />
wouldn’t know it driving through<br />
the lively towns that dot Koh<br />
Samui’s coastline or strolling down<br />
beach roads filled with exuberant<br />
holidaymakers.<br />
“Samui is now back to normal<br />
again, with its beautiful beaches<br />
and natural attractions,” explains<br />
Ratchaporn Poolsawadee, president<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Tourism Association <strong>of</strong> Koh<br />
Samui. “And many new experiences<br />
that combine local wisdom and<br />
creative products and services<br />
await visitors.”<br />
Ratchaporn says that now is<br />
the time to be in Koh Samui. Beach<br />
resorts, only 20% <strong>of</strong> which remained<br />
open during the dark pandemic days,<br />
are back to 80% and many top fivestar<br />
hotels are selling out months in<br />
advance. Travellers from around the<br />
world have dreamed <strong>of</strong> visiting the<br />
idyllic island for the past few years,<br />
and the pent-up demand is obvious<br />
with droves <strong>of</strong> giddy tourists arriving<br />
since the beginning <strong>of</strong> this year.<br />
“I think post-COVID, people<br />
want to travel both domestically<br />
and internationally and the<br />
destination they are thinking <strong>of</strong><br />
is Samui,” says <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong>’<br />
Ancillary Product Manager Thanut<br />
Na Nakon Chanachon. “We are<br />
thankful they are thinking <strong>of</strong> us<br />
after being locked up so long. I can<br />
feel people are even more excited<br />
than before to travel.”<br />
A visit to the island begins<br />
with arrival at Koh Samui Airport,<br />
consistently rated one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />
beautiful airports in the world.<br />
Planes making their final approach<br />
are treated to gorgeous ocean<br />
views, and once you land, openair<br />
carts whisk you to the breezy<br />
and simple-to-navigate terminal<br />
to collect you bags and make your<br />
way out. The airport itself invokes<br />
the feeling that you’ve stepped<br />
out <strong>of</strong> the normal world and into<br />
tropical vacation mode, a perfect<br />
introduction to a perfect holiday<br />
island escape.<br />
Walking down Beach Road in<br />
Chaweng, the biggest and busiest<br />
area on the island, is an experience<br />
like no other. Tourists are now<br />
flocking back to this iconic bustling<br />
street, eager to feast on its banquet<br />
<strong>of</strong> sounds and sights and smells.<br />
Mouth-watering restaurants and<br />
street food, spa services, street<br />
vendors and shops lure travellers.<br />
Gorgeous resorts line the exquisite<br />
powdery sands <strong>of</strong> Chaweng Beach. As<br />
the sun sets, the town pulses with a<br />
vibrant nightlife scene ranging from<br />
laid-back beach bars to high-energy<br />
nightclubs <strong>of</strong>fering live music and<br />
DJs all night.<br />
The people <strong>of</strong> Koh Samui<br />
used the pandemic downtime to<br />
36<br />
37
DREAM ISLAND<br />
upgrade. Mainstay businesses got<br />
facelifts and redesigns, and new<br />
posh clubs and restaurants have<br />
modernised venues that were<br />
previously basic. Nearly every club<br />
on Soi Mango, the island’s main<br />
party strip, has been refurbished<br />
to fresh, stylish new standards.<br />
The island has evolved into a chic<br />
upscale experience, with local <strong>Thai</strong><br />
flavours influencing fine dining<br />
and luxurious accommodations.<br />
“Coming out <strong>of</strong> COVID, business<br />
has been a lot tougher and more<br />
competitive compared to prepandemic,”<br />
said Lionel Helena,<br />
operations director <strong>of</strong> The Cliff Bar<br />
and Grill. Nestled in the picturesque<br />
hills leading out <strong>of</strong> Chaweng Noi,<br />
the restaurant belongs to a business<br />
group that includes several eateries,<br />
as well as The Palms, a nightclub<br />
mainstay on Soi Mango.<br />
“The demographic <strong>of</strong> our<br />
clientele has changed, and we also<br />
find they are more careful in their<br />
spending habits. A slow build-up <strong>of</strong><br />
an expat community is starting to<br />
come back, with a mix <strong>of</strong> new and<br />
old faces.”<br />
Ratchaporn agrees, saying<br />
that the tourism association has<br />
realised that travellers coming to<br />
Koh Samui now aren’t seeking a<br />
budget experience but are looking<br />
Top<br />
Kayaking is<br />
another fun way to<br />
enjoy nature<br />
Bottom<br />
Chaweng Lake<br />
Night Market is a<br />
perfect spot to enjoy<br />
traditional <strong>Thai</strong><br />
street food<br />
Opposite<br />
If scuba diving is<br />
not your thing,<br />
try snorkelling at<br />
Chaweng Beach,<br />
Silver Beach, Coral<br />
Cove, Taling Ngam,<br />
Ao Phang Ka or<br />
Choeng Mon<br />
for the best value. Great deals on<br />
upscale resorts, amazing meals<br />
and experiences are what’s driving<br />
people to Samui.<br />
And the growth is infectious!<br />
Most people who visit Samui take<br />
the opportunity to island hop,<br />
visiting nearby Koh Phangan and<br />
Koh Tao. Both are experiencing a<br />
renaissance <strong>of</strong> upgraded tourism.<br />
Koh Tao has long been known<br />
for scuba diving and water<br />
activities, and was hit hard by<br />
the pandemic shutdown. But<br />
the coastline <strong>of</strong> the tiny island<br />
is filled with luxury resorts and<br />
awe-inspiring sea-view villas,<br />
while the main Sairee Beach has<br />
seen its resorts and restaurants<br />
with million-dollar sunset views<br />
revitalised along the quaint path<br />
that runs along the shoreline.<br />
Phangan, once a bastion<br />
<strong>of</strong> thatch huts with flickering<br />
electricity, now boasts new highquality<br />
beach resorts, as well as<br />
a wave <strong>of</strong> luxury pool villas for<br />
rent and sale. Home to the worldfamous<br />
Full Moon Party, Phangan<br />
has been attracting more than just<br />
backpackers thanks to wellness<br />
<strong>of</strong>ferings <strong>of</strong> yoga, meditation,<br />
retreats, and more, especially in<br />
the north <strong>of</strong> the island.<br />
Gorgeous beaches ring the<br />
island – with some like Koh<br />
Raham and Koh Ma seeming like<br />
they were designed for Instagram<br />
selfies. They enclose a lush core <strong>of</strong><br />
greenery, creating an atmosphere<br />
that invites oneness with nature.<br />
Speaking <strong>of</strong> greenery, returning<br />
visitors may be surprised by the<br />
massive shift in the country’s<br />
attitude towards marijuana.<br />
Cannabis was decriminalised about<br />
a year ago, and entrepreneurs have<br />
been quick to set up smoking shops<br />
all over the islands. There is some<br />
controversy over the herb’s future in<br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land, but medical and cannabisrelated<br />
tourism has boomed!<br />
CHAWENG<br />
Chaweng Beach road greets you with a crescendo<br />
<strong>of</strong> sounds and sights and smells pulling you in<br />
every direction. Street vendors sell crafts, artwork,<br />
beachwear, and more. The aromas <strong>of</strong> delicious<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> street food waft through the air, and spa<br />
services, from relaxing massages to rejuvenating<br />
facials await.<br />
If the taxis shuttling tourists are a bit<br />
overwhelming, take a stroll along the beach<br />
instead. The crystal-clear waters gently lap along<br />
the exquisite powdery sands <strong>of</strong> Chaweng Beach.<br />
Beachfront restaurants and bars <strong>of</strong>fer sun loungers<br />
and umbrellas for their customers to enjoy.<br />
As the sun sets, Chaweng ups the pace with a<br />
vibrant nightlife. Everything from laid-back beach<br />
bars to high-energy nightclubs <strong>of</strong>fer live music,<br />
DJs, dancing, and entertainment, ensuring there’s<br />
something for everyone.<br />
LAMAI<br />
Sprawling along the eastern coast <strong>of</strong> Koh Samui,<br />
Lamai is the mellow sister <strong>of</strong> urban Chaweng. Lamai<br />
Beach is a stunning expanse <strong>of</strong> golden sand that<br />
stretches for over four kilometres. The beach is<br />
tranquil and peaceful, with clear turquoise waters<br />
lapping the shore. The sand is s<strong>of</strong>t and powdery,<br />
making it perfect for sunbathing or a relaxing walk.<br />
Visitors can take a stroll down the beach and<br />
explore the various shops, cafés, and restaurants<br />
lining the shore. Street food vendors <strong>of</strong>fer a wide<br />
range <strong>of</strong> delicious local cuisine, and the restaurants<br />
serve a mix <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong> and international dishes.<br />
38 39
DREAM ISLAND<br />
เมื่่อโลกเริ่่มื่กลับคืืนสู่่คืวามื่สู่ดใสู่หลังต้้อง<br />
ถููกจำำก ัดภายใต้้มื่าต้ริ่การิ่ล็อกดาวน์<br />
สู่วริ่ริ่คื์เมื่่องริ่้อนอยางเกาะสู่มืุ่ยได้เผย<br />
คืวามื่งามื่อีกคืริ่ัง และมื่ีชีีวิิตชีีวาย่งกวา<br />
เด่มื่ เป็็นที่่รู้้กัันดีวาเกาะสู่มืุ่ยเป็็นหน่งใน<br />
เกาะที่่งดงามื่และมื่ีคืวามื่หลากหลายมื่าก<br />
ที่่สูุ่ดของป็ริ่ะเที่ศไที่ย และเป็็นจุุดหมื่าย<br />
ป็ลายที่างที่่นาต้่นต้าต้่นใจำสู่ำาหริ่ับนัก<br />
ที่องเที่่ยวผ่้แสู่วงหาการิ่พัักผอนอยางมื่ี<br />
ริ่ะดับ เกาะสู่มืุ่ยมื่ีพัริ่้อมื่สู่ริ่ริ่พัสู่ำาหริ่ับทีุ่ก<br />
คืน ไม่่ว่่าจำะเป็็นริ่ีสู่อริ่์ต้ริ่่มื่ชีายหาดที่่<br />
สู่วยงามื่ กิิจกริ่ริ่มื่กีฬาสู่ำาหริ่ับนักผจำญ<br />
ภัย ไป็จำนถึึงริ่้านอาหาริ่ริ่ะดับโลก ไม่่ว่่า<br />
คุุณกำล ังมื่องหาวันหยุดเพั่อที่ำาอะไริ่<br />
สู่นุกๆ หริ่ือแค่่อยากอาบแดดบนหาดที่่<br />
สู่วยชีวนต้ะล่ง เกาะแหงนี มื่ีทีุ่กอยางที่่<br />
ต้อบโจำที่ย์<br />
แมื่้การิ่ที่องเที่่ยวในไที่ยยังฟื้้นตััวไมื่<br />
เต็็มื่ที่่ อันเป็็นผลมื่าจำากการิ่ป็ิดพัริ่มื่แดน<br />
และจำำานวนนักเด่นที่างที่่หายไป็จำาก<br />
โควิิด-19 แต่่หากคุุณขับริ่ถูไป็ต้ามื่ยาน<br />
ต่่างๆ ต้ามื่แนวชีายฝั่่งของเกาะสู่มืุ่ย หริ่ือ<br />
เด่นเลนต้ามื่ถูนนเลียบหาด คุุณก็แที่บ<br />
ไมื่ริ่่้เลยเพัริ่าะพั่นที่่เหลานั นเต็็มื่ไปด้้วย<br />
นักที่องเที่่ยว<br />
“ต้อนนี สู่มืุ่ยกลับมื่าป็กติิแล้ว มื่ีทั้้ ง<br />
หาดที่ริ่ายสู่วยงามื่และสู่ถูานที่่ที่องเที่่ยว<br />
ที่างธริ่ริ่มื่ชีาติิ” คุุณริ่ัชีชีพัริ่ พููลสู่วัสดิ์์<br />
นายกสู่มื่าคืมื่สู่งเสู่ริ่่มื่การิ่ที่องเที่่ยว<br />
เกาะสู่มืุ่ย กลาว “แถูมื่ยังมื่ีป็ริ่ะสู่บการิ่ณ์<br />
ใหมื่ๆ อีกมื่ากมื่ายที่่เป็็นการิ่ผสู่มื่ผสู่าน<br />
ภููมิิปััญญาที่้องถู่นเข้ากับผล่ต้ภัณฑ์์และ<br />
บริ่่การิ่เชิิงสู่ริ่้างสู่ริ่ริ่คื์ที่่ริ่อต้้อนริ่ับนัก<br />
ที่องเที่่ยว”<br />
คุุณริ่ัชีชีพัริ่กลาววานี คืือช่่วงเวลาที่่<br />
คืวริ่มื่าเย่อนเกาะสู่มืุ่ย ริ่ีสู่อริ่์ต้ชีายที่ะเล<br />
ซึ่่งเปิิดที่ำาการิ่แคืริ่้อยละ 20 ในช่่วงการิ่<br />
ริ่ะบาดของโควิิด-19 ฟื้้นตััวกลับมื่าถึึง<br />
ริ่้อยละ 80 แล้ว สู่วนโริ่งแริ่มื่ห้าดาวหลาย<br />
แหงก็ถููกจำองเต็็มื่ลวงหน้าหลายเด่อน นัก<br />
เด่นที่างริ่อบโลกต่่างวาดฝั่่นที่่จำะได้มื่า<br />
เย่อนเกาะแสู่นสู่วยแหงนีในห้วงหลายปีีที่่<br />
ผานมื่า และคืวามื่ต้้องการิ่ที่่เพั่มขึ้้นอยาง<br />
ริ่วดเริ่็วนี ก็เห็นได้ชััดจำากการิ่ที่่นักที่อง<br />
เที่่ยวมื่ีคืวามื่กริ่ะตืือริ่ือริ่้นที่่จำะกลับมื่า<br />
เย่อนสู่มืุ่ยต้ังแต่่ต้้นปีี<br />
“ผมื่มื่องวาหลังโควิิด ทั้้ งคืนไที่ยและ<br />
คืนต่่างชีาติิต้้องการิ่ออกเด่นที่างที่อง<br />
เที่่ยว และสู่ถูานที่่ๆ พัวกเขาน่กถึึงคืือ<br />
สู่มืุ่ย” คุุณธานัที่ ณ นคืริ่ ชีนะชีนมื่์<br />
ผ่้จำัดการิ่สู่วนผล่ต้ภัณฑ์์ริ่ายได้เสู่ริ่่มื่<br />
สู่ายการิ่บ่นบางกอกแอริ่์เวย์สู่ อธ่บาย<br />
“เริ่าดีใจำที่่พัวกเขาน่กถึึงเริ่าหลังจำากต้้อง<br />
ถููกล็อกดาวน์อย่นานมื่าก ผมื่ริ่่้สู่่กได้เลย<br />
วาผู้้คนต้่นเต้้นที่่จำะได้ออกเด่นที่าง<br />
มื่ากกวาเมื่่อกอนเสู่ียอีก”<br />
การิ่เด่นที่างไป็เกาะสู่มืุ่ยเริ่่มขึ้้นเมื่่อมื่า<br />
ถึึง ณ สู่นามื่บ่นเกาะสู่มืุ่ย ที่่ได้ริ่ับการิ่จำัด<br />
อันดับให้เป็็นหน่งในสู่นามื่บ่นที่่สู่วยที่่สูุ่ด<br />
ในโลกเสู่มื่อ เคืริ่ืองบ่นที่่เต้ริ่ียมื่แลนด่ง<br />
เผยให้เห็นว่วอาวไที่ยที่่สู่วยงามื่ และเมื่่อ<br />
เคืริ่ืองลงจำอด ริ่ถูลากแบบโป็ริ่งนำาที่างผ่้<br />
มื่าเย่อนไปยัังเที่อริ่์มิินััลที่่โอโถูงและงาย<br />
ต่่อการิ่เด่นไป็ริ่ับกริ่ะเป๋๋าและเด่นที่างไปย ัง<br />
ที่่พัักต่่อไป็ ตััวสู่นามื่บ่นที่ำาให้ผ่้มื่าเย่อน<br />
ริ่่้สู่่กริ่าวกับได้หลุดจำากคืวามื่จำำาเจำของ<br />
โลกเด่มื่ๆ และได้ก้าวเข้าสู่่โหมื่ดพัักผอน<br />
บนเกาะสู่วริ่ริ่คื์ นับวาเป็็นจุุดเริ่่มื่ต้้นที่่ดี<br />
สู่ำาหริ่ับการิ่หลบมื่าพัักผอนวันหยุด ณ<br />
สู่ถูานที่่สู่มื่บ่ริ่ณ์แบบเช่่นนี<br />
การิ่เด่นเลนไป็ต้ามื่ถูนนเลียบหาด<br />
บน<br />
หาดละไม หน่งใน<br />
ชายหาดที่่สวยงามที่่สุด<br />
บนเกาะสมุย<br />
ลาง<br />
รััชชพรั พูลสวัสด์ นายก<br />
สมาคมสงเสริิมการั<br />
ที่องเที่่ยวเกาะสมุย<br />
เฉวงซึ่่งเป็็นยานที่่ใหญที่่สูุ่ดและคืริ่้กคืริ่ืน<br />
ที่่สูุ่ดบนเกาะเป็็นป็ริ่ะสู่บการิ่ณ์ที่่หาที่่ไหน<br />
ไมื่ได้ นักที่องเที่่ยวต่่างกลับมื่าเย่อนถูนนที่่<br />
คึึกคัักเสู่้นนีและพัริ่้อมื่ที่่จำะริ่ับป็ริ่ะสู่บการิ่ณ์<br />
สูุ่ดพิิเศษ ที่่หมื่ายถึึงเสู่ียงจำอแจำ สู่ถูานที่่<br />
ให้ค้้นพับ และกล่นอายเฉพัาะตััว ริ่้าน<br />
อาหาริ่และริ่้านข้างที่างที่่เต็็มื่ไปด้้วย<br />
อาหาริ่นาล่มื่ลอง สู่ป็า ริ่้านค้้าริ่ายที่าง<br />
ล้วนด่งด่ดนักที่องเที่่ยว สู่วนริ่ีสู่อริ่์ต้ที่่<br />
ออกแบบมื่าอยางสู่วยงามื่ก็เริ่ียงริ่ายอย่<br />
บนหาดเฉวงที่่เมื่็ดที่ริ่ายนุมื่ละเอียด ใน<br />
ยามื่พัริ่ะอาที่่ต้ย์ต้กด่น ทั้้ งเมื่่องยังคืง<br />
คึึกคัักด้วยชีีวิิตกลางคืืนสูุ่ดเหวียงที่่หาได้<br />
จำากบาริ่์ริ่่มื่หาดสู่ำาหริ่ับนั งเพล ินๆ ไป็จำน<br />
ถึึงไนที่์คลัับที่่นาต้่นเต้้น ซึ่่งมื่ีทั้้ งดนต้ริ่ีสู่ด<br />
และดีเจำต้ลอดทั้้งคืืน<br />
กลับมื่าเย่อนสู่มืุ่ยคืริ่าวนี เต้ริ่ียมื่ต้ัว<br />
ให้พัริ่้อมื่ นอกจำากจำะที่องเที่่ยวสู่ถูาน<br />
ที่่สูุ่ดฮิ่ต้ริ่อบเกาะแล้ว ยังมื่ีเกาะสู่วยๆ อีก<br />
หลายแหง เช่่น เกาะริ่าฮััมื่และเกาะมื่้า ที่่<br />
เหมื่าะสู่ำาหริ่ับการิ่เซึ่ลฟี่่ลงอ่นสู่ต้าแกริ่มื่<br />
อยางย่ง<br />
เฉวง<br />
ถูนนเลียบหาดเฉวงต้้อนริ่ับผ่้มื่าเย่อนด้วยคืวามื่ขโมื่งโฉงเฉงของเสู่ียง ภาพั และกล่น และกล่น<br />
ที่่มื่าจำากทีุ่กที่าง ที่่มื่าจำากทีุ่กที่าง ริ่้านค้้าข้างถูนนวางขายงานฝั่ีมื่่อ งานศ่ลป็ะ เสื้้อผ้าสู่ำาหริ่ับที่ะเล เสื้้อผ้าสู่ำาหริ่ับที่ะเล และ<br />
อีกมื่ากมื่าย กล่นอาหาริ่ไที่ยแบบสู่ต้ริ่ีที่ฟืู้<br />
กล่นอาหาริ่ไที่ยแบบสู่ต้ริ่ีที่ฟืู้ ดแหวกวายมื่าต้ามื่อากาศ ดแหวกวายมื่าต้ามื่อากาศ และริ่้านสู่ป็าที่่มื่ี<br />
และริ่้านสู่ป็าที่่มื่ี<br />
บริ่่การิ่ต้ังแต่่การิ่นวดเพั่อผอนคืลายและการิ่บำาริุ่งผ่วหน้าต่่างริ่อคือยผ่้มื่าเย่อน<br />
บริ่่การิ่ต้ังแต่่การิ่นวดเพั่อผอนคืลายและการิ่บำาริุ่งผ่วหน้าต่่างริ่อคือยผ่้มื่าเย่อน<br />
เมื่่อพัริ่ะอาที่่ต้ย์ต้กด่น เมื่่อพัริ่ะอาที่่ต้ย์ต้กด่น หาดเฉวงก็กลับมื่าคึึกคัักด้วยสู่ีสู่ันยามื่ริ่าต้ริ่ี พัริ่้อมื่<br />
บริ่ริ่ยากาศสู่นุกสู่นานที่ามื่กลางดนต้ริ่ีสู่ด บริ่ริ่ยากาศสู่นุกสู่นานที่ามื่กลางดนต้ริ่ีสู่ด ดีเจำ เต้้นริ่ำาและคืวามื่บันเที่่งสู่ำาหริ่ับทีุ่กคืน<br />
ละไม<br />
หาดละไมื่ที่่ที่อดตััวต้ามื่แนวชีายฝั่่งต้ะวันออกของเกาะสู่มืุ่ย หาดละไมื่ที่่ที่อดตััวต้ามื่แนวชีายฝั่่งต้ะวันออกของเกาะสู่มืุ่ย เป็็น<br />
หาดที่ริ่ายสู่ีที่องคืวามื่ยาวถึึงสี่่ ก่โลเมื่ต้ริ่ที่่ไมื่พัลุกพล่่านเที่าเฉวง<br />
ก่โลเมื่ต้ริ่ที่่ไมื่พัลุกพล่่านเที่าเฉวง<br />
เหมื่าะกับการิ่อาบแดดหริ่ือเด่นเลนบนผ่นที่ริ่ายที่่นุมื่ละเอียด<br />
เหมื่าะกับการิ่อาบแดดหริ่ือเด่นเลนบนผ่นที่ริ่ายที่่นุมื่ละเอียด<br />
นักที่องเที่่ยวสู่ามื่าริ่ถูแวะต้ามื่ริ่้านค้้า นักที่องเที่่ยวสู่ามื่าริ่ถูแวะต้ามื่ริ่้านค้้า คืาเฟื้่ และริ่้านอาหาริ่<br />
ต่่างๆ ที่่เริ่ียงริ่ายอย่ริ่อบๆ ที่่เริ่ียงริ่ายอย่ริ่อบๆ มื่ีทั้้ งอาหาริ่ไที่ย งอาหาริ่ไที่ย อาหาริ่ที่้องถู่น อาหาริ่ที่้องถู่น และ<br />
อาหาริ่นานาชีาติิให้เล่อก<br />
40
SOUL FOOD<br />
Words & Photos Sirin P. Wongpanit<br />
Following<br />
the Trail<br />
<strong>of</strong> Flavours<br />
in the<br />
South<br />
Your guide to the myriad tastes and textures <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land’s culinary melting pot<br />
Flanked by two coastlines, the long<br />
and narrow stretch <strong>of</strong> land <strong>Thai</strong>s<br />
refer to as the “axe handle <strong>of</strong> Siam”<br />
is otherwise known as the South<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land, where foodies savour fresh,<br />
albeit deliciously strong and pungent<br />
flavours.<br />
Summarising a cuisine so vast and<br />
complex as southern <strong>Thai</strong>land’s is not<br />
an easy task, but it can be managed with<br />
a touch <strong>of</strong> imagination, a collection <strong>of</strong><br />
memories and Google Maps.<br />
Let’s start with the map. Officially,<br />
the South <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land starts as soon as<br />
you enter the province <strong>of</strong> Chumphon<br />
after passing through Prachuap Khiri<br />
Khan. From here, the southern part <strong>of</strong> the<br />
country stretches all the way to Yala’s<br />
Betong district. This region covers 14<br />
provinces, spread over 70,000 square<br />
kilometres. Driving from <strong>Bangkok</strong> to the<br />
southernmost tip <strong>of</strong> Yala, barring traffic<br />
jams, takes about 15 hours and covers<br />
about 1,200 kilometres <strong>of</strong> road.<br />
Left<br />
Nam Phrik Goong<br />
Siap or a southern<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> chilli dip made<br />
with dry shrimp<br />
with a fierce and<br />
bold flavour<br />
42 43
SOUL FOOD<br />
Top Right<br />
Amnat Chotchuang,<br />
owner <strong>of</strong> Sabienglae<br />
Restaurant in Samui<br />
Middle<br />
Different kinds <strong>of</strong><br />
vegetables to<br />
go with spicy<br />
southern dishes<br />
Below<br />
The 14 Southern<br />
provinces <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land begin<br />
with Chumphon<br />
Getting the bearings right is<br />
important for me, while maps<br />
fire my imagination and get me<br />
wondering what people do in these<br />
places. What is the culture, the<br />
traditions – and what’s for lunch?<br />
Southern <strong>Thai</strong>land is a rich<br />
melting pot. People from around<br />
the world arrived here long before<br />
the mining heyday <strong>of</strong> King Rama V’s<br />
reign. Merchants and seafarers<br />
from around the globe came to<br />
trade, settle, and infuse the local<br />
cuisine with their own flavours.<br />
This is how the repertoire <strong>of</strong><br />
southern cuisine that we have come<br />
to know and love was created.<br />
Top Right<br />
Paradise for foodies<br />
on Lat Yai walking<br />
street in the heart <strong>of</strong><br />
Phuket Old Town<br />
Chillies, pungent ingredients<br />
and strong herbs are what comes<br />
to mind when I reflect on my own<br />
journey through southern cuisine.<br />
Fiery curries that are consumed all<br />
day, even at breakfast, dominate<br />
the scene. The fish cakes, the fried<br />
chicken, the ultra-spicy, sour<br />
curries (think gaeng som) are just<br />
some <strong>of</strong> the classics southern folk<br />
use to measure a cook’s ability.<br />
Then comes the long list <strong>of</strong> “fresh<br />
desserts” that Phuket people eat for<br />
breakfast along with a hearty plate<br />
<strong>of</strong> savoury delights.<br />
While outsiders might identify<br />
southern cuisine as a single<br />
collection <strong>of</strong> dishes, the natives are<br />
far more discerning.<br />
“Even the same curries taste<br />
different from one province to the<br />
next,” says Amnat Chotchuang,<br />
a Koh Samui native and owner <strong>of</strong><br />
Sabienglae Restaurant in Lamai,<br />
Samui. “And the two coastlines,<br />
one along the Gulf <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land and<br />
Middle<br />
Fried fish goes well<br />
with most fiery<br />
southern dishes<br />
Bottom, Left to Right<br />
Sago pudding with<br />
coconut milk<br />
Spicy stir fry <strong>of</strong> stinky<br />
beans and shrimps<br />
A Typical Day<br />
Eating in<br />
the South<br />
Breakfast<br />
• Khanom cheen or curried<br />
noodles with all the<br />
trimmings, plus fried<br />
chicken, steamed fish cake,<br />
or “hor mok”<br />
(steamed fish souffle)<br />
• Hit the local markets for<br />
more breakfast options.<br />
If you’re in Phuket, try the<br />
“fresh sweets” or “khanom<br />
sod”, and pa thong go (fried<br />
dough) with kaya or coconut<br />
custard. For something<br />
heartier, go for the fresh<br />
fried roti or mataba.<br />
• In Phuket, Trang and<br />
Hat Yai, dim sum is also a<br />
popular choice for breakfast.<br />
Lunch<br />
• In Samui, try out their spicy salad<br />
made with fresh sea urchin (hoy men)<br />
and oyster (hoy jor). Another unique<br />
dish is “muk sai or wai tom kathi” or<br />
baby squid with long, slender tentacles<br />
cooked in coconut milk. Another<br />
must-try is the “moo khua khoey”,<br />
or pork belly toasted with shrimp<br />
paste and local herbs.<br />
• When in Phuket, treat<br />
yourself to a Peranakan<br />
feast. Popular choices are<br />
“moo hong” (pork stew)<br />
and “gaeng tu mee” or fish<br />
curry with okra. You can<br />
also try Hokkien noodles,<br />
“loba” or stewed pork<br />
entrails and local spring rolls.<br />
Dinner<br />
• Visit the coast anywhere in <strong>Thai</strong>land<br />
and you are bound to find seafood<br />
galore. Fresh is always the best. In<br />
Chumphon local fisher folk set up<br />
shop on the shore selling the freshest<br />
grilled squid I have ever eaten. In<br />
Phuket, hit Rawai Beach for freshly<br />
cooked seafood at any <strong>of</strong> the casual<br />
seaside eateries.<br />
44 45
SOUL FOOD<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Right<br />
A typical <strong>Thai</strong><br />
southern meal:<br />
Gaeng Som and<br />
Gaeng Khua<br />
Coconut-based soup<br />
with Bai Liang and<br />
Shrimps<br />
Mud Crabs in a<br />
Sweet Southern<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> Curry or<br />
Gang Khua<br />
Dr. Niphatchanok<br />
Najpinij, a<br />
lecturer in<br />
gastronomy at Suan<br />
Dusit University<br />
in <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
the other on the Andaman Sea,<br />
also make a big difference. Fish<br />
and seafood from the Gulf, with its<br />
calmer waters, are smaller, sweeter,<br />
and more tender in taste and texture<br />
compared with those from the<br />
other side. And native ingredients,<br />
such as shrimp pastes from various<br />
locations, taste different. That’s<br />
how locals can always identify tastes<br />
from home.”<br />
Geography and climate also play<br />
a subtle role in flavouring southern<br />
dishes.<br />
“Whether we realise it or not,<br />
what we put in our mouths is<br />
commanded by the body,” explains<br />
Dr. Niphatchanok Najpinij, a<br />
lecturer in gastronomy at Suan<br />
Dusit University in <strong>Bangkok</strong>.<br />
“Eating spicy dishes for breakfast<br />
might seem crazy to most people,<br />
but for southern folk living in a hot<br />
and humid climate, the spicy food<br />
helps eliminate bodily sluggishness.<br />
Through sweat, the body cools <strong>of</strong>f.<br />
Hence, eating spicy food in the<br />
South is a natural thing to do.”<br />
The local way <strong>of</strong> life has also<br />
given birth to unique eating habits.<br />
For instance, during family fishing<br />
trips, children in Samui learn how<br />
to use a small spear to extract flesh<br />
from molluscs.<br />
“We ate sea urchin and small<br />
oysters fresh and raw while<br />
growing up,” recalls Amnat. “They<br />
sustained us during low tide. We<br />
would hang out on the shore,<br />
setting up a beachside kitchen to<br />
make a quick, spicy salad out <strong>of</strong><br />
those molluscs and eat them with<br />
our packed rice. We called it ‘kin<br />
hor’, or packed lunch.”<br />
Hop across to the Andaman side<br />
to find Phuket’s delicious Peranakan<br />
cuisine, whose flavours and stories<br />
saw the Pearl <strong>of</strong> the Andaman Sea<br />
named a UNESCO Creative City <strong>of</strong><br />
Gastronomy in 2015.<br />
That global recognition has<br />
encouraged the island’s younger<br />
generation to pay more attention to<br />
their unique roots. The Peranakan<br />
cuisine in Phuket is enjoying a<br />
revival as old specialities make<br />
their way back onto menus across<br />
the island. The rich stories behind<br />
these classics make the food even<br />
more delicious.<br />
พื้้ นที่่ภาคใต้้ของประเที่ศไที่ยได้้รับการ<br />
ขนานนามว่่า “ด้้ามขว่านแห่่งสยาม”<br />
ด้้ว่ยลัักษณะที่างภูมิศาสตร์์ที่่ขนาบด้้ว่ย<br />
ชายฝั่่งทั้้งสองด้้าน แลัะผืืนแผ่่นดิินที่่<br />
ที่อด้ต้ัว่ยาว่จากเหนืือจรด้ใต้้ ลัักษณะเฉพื้าะ<br />
ตััว่ด้ังกล่่าวนำำาไปสู่ว่ัฒนธรรมอาห่าร<br />
ที่่นิยมรสชาติิจัดจ้้านร้อนแรงที่่ที่ำาให้้<br />
ผืู้ลัิมลัองไม่สามารถหัักห้้ามใจจาก<br />
คว่ามอร่อยน่ ได้้<br />
ไม่ใช่เร่องง่ายที่่จะห่าคำจำำกััด้คว่าม<br />
ให้้กับศิลัปะการที่ำาอาห่ารพื้้นเมือง<br />
ภาคใต้้แต่่ด้้ว่ยจินต้นาการ คว่ามที่รงจำา<br />
ที่่สังสม แลัะคว่ามช่ว่ยเห่ลัือเล็็กๆ น้อยๆ<br />
จากกูเกิลัแม็พื้ นิยามเห่ลั่านั นก็ปรากฏ<br />
ได้้ชัด้ยิงข้น<br />
ห่ากดููจากแผืนที่่ ภาคใต้้ของไที่ยเริม<br />
ต้ังแต่่จังห่ว่ัดช ุมพื้ร ก่อนจะที่อด้ต้ัว่ยาว่<br />
ลังมาสินสุด้ที่่อำาเภอเบต้ง จังห่ว่ัด้ยะลัา<br />
ภาคใต้้ครอบคลุุม 14 จังห่ว่ัด้แลัะม่พื้้นที่่<br />
มากกว่่า 70,000 ต้ารางกิโลัเมต้ร ห่าก<br />
ขับรถจากกรุงเที่พื้ฯ ไปจนถึงใต้้สุด้แบบ<br />
ไม่เจอรถติิด้จะใช้เว่ลัาประมาณ 15<br />
ชั ว่โมง แลัะนั นห่มายถึงระยะที่างเกือบ<br />
1,200 กิโลัเมต้ร<br />
การปรับตััว่ให้้เข้ากับวิิถีีท้้องถินเป็น<br />
เร่องสำค ัญสำาห่รับผู้้เขียน แผืนที่่ช่ว่ย<br />
จุด้ประกายจินต้นาการแลัะต้ังคำาถาม<br />
ว่่าผู้้คนในพื้้นที่่นั นที่ำาอะไรกันบ้าง<br />
วััฒนธรรมแลัะประเพื้ณ่ของพื้ว่กเขาเป็น<br />
อย่างไร ว่่าแต่่... กลัางวัันน่ กินอะไรดีี<br />
หนึ่่งวัันึ่กัับกัาร<br />
ลองล้มชิิมรสในึ่<br />
แดนใต้้<br />
ภาคใต้้ของไที่ยเป็นแห่ลั่งรว่ม<br />
วััฒนธรรมห่ลัากส่สัน ผู้้คนต่่างเดิินที่าง<br />
มาที่่น่ก่อนยุครุ่งเร่องของเหม ืองแร่ใน<br />
รัชสมัยของรัชกาลัที่่ 5 เส่ยอ่ก ทั้้งพื้่อค้า<br />
ว่านิชแลัะนักเดิินเร่อจากทีุ่กมุมโลักเดิิน<br />
ที่างเข้ามาค้าขาย ต้ังรกราก แลัะผืสมผืสาน<br />
ตำำร ับอาห่ารพื้้นเมืองเข้ากับอาห่ารของ<br />
ที่่บ้าน น่เองคือจุดกำำาเนิด้ของอาห่ารใต้้<br />
ที่่เรารู้จักแลัะห่ลังให่ลั<br />
พื้ริกรสเผ็็ดจ ัดจ้้าน วััตถ ุดิิบรสชาติิ<br />
ร้อนแรง แลัะสมุนไพื้รกลัินเฉพื้าะตััว่ คือ<br />
สิงที่่ผุุด้ข้นเมื อผู้้เขียนนึกถึงการเดิินที่าง<br />
แลัะได้้ลัิมลัองอาห่ารใต้้ แกงที่่เผ็็ด้จน<br />
แที่บพื้่นไฟได้้ซึ่่งห่าที่านได้้ทั้้งวัันต้ังแต่่<br />
มือเช้าคือตััวช ูโรงห่ลััก ที่อดม ัน ไก่ที่อด้<br />
แกงเห่ลัือง (คล้้ายกับแกงส้ม) เป็นตััว่<br />
เลืือกจำานว่นห่นึงของอาห่ารใต้้ประจำบ ้าน<br />
ที่่ถือเป็นเคร่องวััด้คว่ามสามารถของ<br />
แม่ครัว่ ต้ามด้้ว่ย “ขนมสด้พื้้นเมือง” ที่่<br />
คนภูเก็ตก ินเป็นอาห่ารเช้ากับเคร่องเค่ยง<br />
ห่ลัากรสแบบจัด้เต็็ม<br />
ผู้้มาเยือนอาจมองว่่าอาห่ารใต้้ม่<br />
รสชาติิแบบเดีียวก ัน แต่่สำาห่รับคนใน<br />
พื้้นที่่แล้้ว่ อาห่ารใต้้ม่คว่ามแต้กต่่าง<br />
มากกว่่านัน<br />
“แกงแบบเดีียวก ัน เว่ลัาไปกินคนลัะ<br />
จังห่ว่ัด้ รสชาติิยังไม่เหมืือนกันเลัย”<br />
อำานาจ โชติิช่ว่ง คนพื้้นที่่เกาะสมุยแลัะ<br />
เจ้าของร้านอาห่ารเสบ่ยงเลับนห่าด้ลัะไม<br />
เล่่าให้้ฟังอย่างออกรส “ฝั่่งอ่าว่ไที่ย<br />
มื้้อเช้้า<br />
• ขนมจีนที่่ม่นำายาห่ลัากห่ลัาย<br />
พื้ร้อมเคร่องเค่ยง อย่าลืืมไก่ที่อด้<br />
แลัะห่่อห่มก<br />
• ลัองไปสำารว่จต้ลัาด้เพื่่อดููตััว่เลืือก<br />
อืนๆ สำาห่รับมือเช้า ถ้าอยู่ที่่ภูเก็ต้<br />
ลัองชิม “ขนมสด้” แลัะปาที่่องโก๋จิม<br />
สังขยามะพื้ร้าว่ หร ือถ้าอยาก<br />
จัด้เต็็ม ลัองโรต้่ที่อด้ห่ร่อมะต้ะบะดูู<br />
• ต้ิมซึ่ำาเป็นตััว่เลืือกอาห่ารเช้า<br />
ยอดน ิยมในภูเก็ต้ ตร ัง แลัะอำาเภอ<br />
ห่าด้ใหญ ่<br />
คลัืนสงบกว่่า ปลัาแลัะอาห่ารที่ะเลก็็เลัย<br />
ม่ขนาด้เล็็กกว่่า เนื อห่ว่านแลัะนิมกว่่า<br />
ถ้าเที่่ยบกับฝั่่งที่ะเลอ ันด้ามัน วััตถุุดิิบใน<br />
พื้้นที่่ก็เหม ือนกัน ลัองดููกะปิสิ ต่่างถินก็<br />
ต่่างรสกัน”<br />
ภูมิศาสตร์์แลัะสภาพื้อากาศยังม่<br />
บที่บาที่ ในการรังสรรค์รสชาติิของ<br />
อาห่ารใต้้<br />
ด้ร. นิพื้ัที่ธ์ชนก นาจพื้ินิจ อาจารย์<br />
ด้้านอาห่ารจากมห่าวิิที่ยาลััยสว่นดุุสิต้<br />
กรุงเที่พื้ฯ กล่่าว่ “การกินอาห่ารรสเผ็็ด้<br />
ในมื อเช้าอาจเป็นเร่องเห่ลัือเชื อสำาห่รับ<br />
ห่ลัายๆ คน แต่่สำาห่รับคนใต้้ที่่อาศัยอยู่<br />
ในพื้้นที่่อากาศร้อนชื น อาห่ารรสเผ็็ด้<br />
ช่ว่ยลัด้คว่ามเชื องช้าของร่างกาย<br />
ร่างกายเย็นลังเมือเห่ง่อออก การกิน<br />
อาห่ารรสเผ็็ด้ในภาคใต้้จ้งเป็นเร่อง<br />
ธรรมด้า”<br />
ข้ามฝั่่งมายังที่ะเลอ ันด้ามันเพื่่อ<br />
ค้นพื้บอาห่ารเปอรานากันอันข้นชื อ<br />
ของภูเก็ต้ รสชาติิแลัะเร่องราว่ที่่เรียงร้อย<br />
ถ่ายที่อด้ที่ำาให้้ไข่มุกแห่่งอันด้ามัน<br />
เม็ด้น่ได้้รับการยกย่องให้้เป็นเมือง<br />
สร้างสรรค์ด้้านอาห่ารประจำา<br />
พื้.ศ.2558 จากยูเนสโก<br />
คนรุ่นใหม่่ของภูเก็ต้ห่ันมาใส่ใจ<br />
รากเหง้้าอันเป็นเอกลัักษณ์มากข้น<br />
อาห่ารเปอรานากันกำาลัังเป็นที่่นิยม<br />
อ่กครังด้้ว่ยตำำร ับโบราณที่่ปรากฏข้น<br />
ทั่่ ว่เกาะ เร่องราวอ ันม่ส่สันที่่สะที่้อน<br />
ผ่่านอาห่ารคลัาสสิกเห่ลั่าน่ ยิงเพิ่่ม<br />
สุนที่รียภาพื้ด้้านรสชาติิให้้กับแต่่ลัะ<br />
จานมากยิงข้น<br />
มื้้อกลางวััน<br />
• ที่่สมุย ลัองชิมยำาห่อยเม่นแลัะห่อยเจาะ อาห่าร<br />
ที่้องถินยอดน ิยมอ่กอย่างคือ “หมึึกสาย” หร ือ<br />
“ว่ายต้้มกะที่ิ” ที่่ที่ำาจากหมึึกสายต้้มในกะที่ิ อาห่าร<br />
ที่่ต้้องลัองชิมอ่กจานคือ “หม ูคัว่เคย” ที่่ได้้จาก<br />
การคัว่ห่มูสามชั นกับกะปิแลัะสมุนไพื้รที่้องถิน<br />
• เมื อถึงถินภูเก็ต้ ต้้องลัองกินอาห่ารเปอรานากัน<br />
ตััว่เลืือกยอดนิิยม เช่น “หม ูฮ้้อง” (หม ูตุ๋๋น) แลัะ<br />
“แกงตููม่ ” หรืือแกงเผ็็ด้ปลัากับกระเจียบ หรืือ<br />
จะลัองห่ม่ฮ้กเก่ยนกับ “โลับะ” หรืือส่ว่นต่่างๆ<br />
ของหมููต้้มพื้ะโล้้แล้้วนำำาไปที่อดก ับปอเป๊ยะแบบ<br />
ที่้องถิน<br />
ตามเข็็มนาฬิิกาจากบน<br />
หมูสามชั้้นทอดเกลืือ<br />
อาหารท่ทานคู่่เข้้าก้บ<br />
อาหารใตรสเผ็็ดจ้ดจาน<br />
หอหมก เนื อเน่ยนน่ม<br />
รสชั้าติเผ็็ดหวาน<br />
กลืมกล่่อมตามแบบ<br />
ฉบ้บชั้าวใตแทๆ<br />
นำาพริกก่งสด เสิร์ฟ<br />
พรอมผัักสด ผัักทอด<br />
ไข่่เคู่็ม แลืะหม่ฮกเก่ยนท่<br />
นิยมในภููเก็ต<br />
ชั้่ดนำาชั้าแลืะข็นมหวาน<br />
สูตรโบราณข็องชั้าว<br />
ภููเก็ต<br />
มื้้อเย็็น<br />
• ไม่ว่่าจะเป็นห่าด้ไห่นของ<br />
ประเที่ศไที่ย แน่นอนว่่าผู้้มาเยือนจะได้้<br />
พื้บกับแห่ลั่งรว่มอาห่ารที่ะเลัที่่ยิงสด้<br />
ยิงดีี ที่่จังห่ว่ัดช ุมพื้ร ชาว่ประมงพื้้น<br />
บ้านเปิด้แผืงขายปลัาหมึึกย่างที่่สด้<br />
ที่่สุด้ที่่ฉันเคยชิมมา แลัะถ้ามาภูเก็ต้<br />
ก็ต้้องลัองมาชิมอาห่ารที่ะเลัที่่ปรุงกัน<br />
สด้ๆ ได้้ที่่ร้านอาห่ารพื้้นบ้านริมห่าด้<br />
ราไวย์์ได้้เลัย<br />
46<br />
47
CHINATOWN<br />
THE RE BIRTH<br />
Old B angkok<br />
x<br />
Words Khetsirin Pholdhampalit & Pinanong Panchuen<br />
Photos Bobby Heng<br />
Song Wat has transformed into the<br />
city’s hippest neighbourhood, with<br />
cafés, restaurants and art spaces<br />
lighting up its century-old shophouses<br />
48<br />
49
CHINATOWN<br />
If Yaowarat (<strong>Bangkok</strong>’s Chinatown) is a<br />
wild buffet bustling with tourists, nearby<br />
Song Wat is afternoon tea – a place to<br />
savour the heritage <strong>of</strong> bygone days with<br />
contemporary flavours.<br />
Song Wat Road runs for one kilometre<br />
parallel to Yaowarat Road along the Chao<br />
Phraya River. Its name means “drawn by<br />
the King”, after King Rama V, who initiated<br />
the road’s construction by drawing a line on<br />
the map. Over a century ago, this area was<br />
a bustling business hub and melting pot <strong>of</strong><br />
Buddhist temples, mosques, and Chinese<br />
shrines where the residents <strong>of</strong> different faiths<br />
lived peacefully.<br />
Top Right & Below<br />
Young entrepreneurs<br />
gather to discuss new<br />
projects regenerating<br />
Song Wat<br />
Anti-Clockwise<br />
from Top Left<br />
Play Art<br />
House gallery<br />
Kiattiwat<br />
Srichanwanpen,<br />
Song Wat resident<br />
and owner <strong>of</strong> Play<br />
Art House<br />
Artist Warunyoo<br />
Somboon evokes<br />
the multicultural<br />
life <strong>of</strong> Song Wat in<br />
his paintings ‘Wat<br />
Pathum Khongkha’,<br />
‘Pun Tao Kong<br />
Shrine’ and ‘Masjid<br />
Luang Kocha<br />
Itsahak’<br />
The Art <strong>of</strong> Song Wat<br />
Daily life on Song Wat is beautifully<br />
captured in three paintings<br />
– “Wat Pathum Khongkha<br />
Ratchaworawihan temple”,<br />
“Lao Pun Tao Kong shrine” and<br />
“Masjid Luang Kocha Itsahak<br />
mosque” – by 25-year-old newwave<br />
artist Warunyoo Somboon.<br />
Warunyoo’s art recently<br />
starred in a showcase featuring<br />
stories <strong>of</strong> the local community<br />
at Song Wat’s gallery, Play Art<br />
House. The bustling local art scene<br />
also decorates recently opened<br />
restaurants and cafés in the area,<br />
such as Arteasia Tart Bar and Hor<br />
Fun, a fusion eatery with signature<br />
ribbon-noodle dishes.<br />
Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, a<br />
Song Wat resident, transformed his<br />
family’s shoe warehouse into the<br />
lively art gallery in 2020. He is one<br />
<strong>of</strong> a bunch <strong>of</strong> young entrepreneurs<br />
leading the rebirth <strong>of</strong> Song Wat<br />
and neighbouring Phat Sai Road<br />
through creative activities such as<br />
“Made in Song Wat”. The event<br />
allows the public to discover hidden<br />
gems in the area and will soon<br />
<strong>of</strong>fer a guidebook for both local and<br />
international tourists.<br />
Song Wat’s name means ‘drawn by<br />
the King’, after King Rama V, who<br />
initiated the road’s construction by<br />
drawing a line on the map.<br />
Legendary Street Food<br />
To enjoy Song Wat’s street food, we<br />
recommend starting at the parking<br />
lot on Song Sawat Road, famed<br />
for its graffiti mural <strong>of</strong> two giant<br />
elephants. An alley next to the lot is<br />
home to Lim Lao Sa noodle shop and<br />
its legendary “bouncy” fish balls.<br />
The balls are made <strong>of</strong> 100% fish,<br />
pounded and kneaded until it has a<br />
smooth and bouncy texture. Lim Lao<br />
Sa has been operating for over 80<br />
years and is open daily from 3pm to<br />
9pm. But be sure to come early as it<br />
<strong>of</strong>ten sells out by early evening.<br />
Head towards Ratchawong<br />
Road for your next stop: the latest<br />
branch <strong>of</strong> Gu Long Bao whose<br />
Teochew-style steamed buns are<br />
a family recipe passed down five<br />
generations. The 5th-generation<br />
owner has opened the new<br />
youthful-looking branch at the<br />
entrance <strong>of</strong> Luang Kocha Itsahak<br />
Mosque, a European-style mosque<br />
unique in <strong>Thai</strong>land.<br />
Unlike the Cantonese-style<br />
fluffy texture, Gu Long Bao’s<br />
steamed buns are chewier, as<br />
sweet potato is added to the flour.<br />
The hand-made buns have fillings<br />
including minced pork with salted<br />
egg, bean and sesame, mashed<br />
taro, and a plant-based option.<br />
Another local culinary legend<br />
is Urai Han Pa Lo, where braised<br />
goose in sumptuous dark brown<br />
broth has been delighting diners<br />
for 50 years. Demand is high, so<br />
be there before noon to savour the<br />
succulent aromatic meat at one <strong>of</strong><br />
the best Chinese goose restaurants<br />
in <strong>Bangkok</strong>.<br />
At the streetcorner joining Song<br />
Wat and Ratchawong Road stands a<br />
legacy building called Tuek Khaek,<br />
where Indian merchant Abdul Tyeb<br />
Maskati imported textiles during<br />
the reign <strong>of</strong> King Rama V. Opposite<br />
Tuek Khaek is Ar Liang Khanom<br />
Jeeb, serving delectable Chinese<br />
steamed dumplings stuffed with<br />
minced pork and water chestnut.<br />
The yummy taste comes with a<br />
pocket-friendly price tag, making<br />
it a favourite place with locals.<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Left<br />
A narrow <strong>of</strong>fshoot <strong>of</strong><br />
Song Wat is flanked<br />
by busy businesses<br />
The Lim Lao Sa<br />
noodle stall is<br />
famous for its<br />
‘bouncy’ fish balls<br />
A mural depicting<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> delicacies<br />
near the entrance<br />
<strong>of</strong> the Luang Kocha<br />
Itsahak Mosque<br />
Gu Long Bao<br />
serves up steaming<br />
Teochew-style buns<br />
at the entrance<br />
to Luang Kocha<br />
Itsahak Mosque<br />
50 51
CHINATOWN<br />
Bygone Charms,<br />
Modern Attractions<br />
Over a century ago, the riverside<br />
Song Wat was Siam’s bustling<br />
hub for import and export <strong>of</strong><br />
agricultural produce, particularly<br />
herbs and spices. The nearby<br />
Ratchawong pier served as a<br />
gateway for international trade<br />
and was crowded with steamboats.<br />
The shophouses <strong>of</strong> Song Wat were<br />
originally built to serve as <strong>of</strong>fices<br />
and warehouses for agricultural<br />
produce.<br />
Their distinctive blend <strong>of</strong><br />
Chinese and Western architecture<br />
can be seen in the stucco fruitand-flower<br />
motifs and Corinthian<br />
pillars over the window frames<br />
– a reminder <strong>of</strong> the area’s glory<br />
days as the country’s gateway for<br />
international commerce.<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Right<br />
The gallery-like<br />
FV Café serves up<br />
creative and healthy<br />
drinks made from<br />
unusual plants<br />
The newly repainted<br />
Luang Kocha<br />
Itsahak mosque<br />
Many local<br />
shophouses remain<br />
unchanged since<br />
King Rama V’s<br />
reign over a<br />
century ago<br />
Charms <strong>of</strong> a bygone<br />
era captured near<br />
the Sampheng area<br />
The charm <strong>of</strong> the old buildings<br />
is now attracting a new generation<br />
<strong>of</strong> young entrepreneurs, who<br />
are rapidly transforming Song<br />
Wat into a hipster haunt. The<br />
area is brimming with trendy<br />
restaurants, cafés, galleries,<br />
and hostels taking advantage<br />
<strong>of</strong> mass transit and a prime<br />
central <strong>Bangkok</strong> location<br />
neighbouring Sampheng<br />
(<strong>Bangkok</strong>’s biggest wholesale<br />
market) and Chinatown.<br />
Fresh Chapter from<br />
New Generation<br />
FV café is pioneering a fascinating<br />
and surprisingly delicious idea<br />
– making healthy refreshments<br />
from unusual fruits and vegetables<br />
including weeds.<br />
Maiyarap (Sensitive plant), for<br />
example, is used to brew tea. Other<br />
tongue-teasers to try include the<br />
red tamarind juice and zedoary<br />
shot with <strong>Thai</strong>-style snacks such<br />
as dok lum duan (<strong>Thai</strong> shortbread<br />
cookies) and sam pan nee (mixed<br />
flour and coconut). FV’s interior<br />
resembles a cosy art gallery, with<br />
stylings courtesy <strong>of</strong> its owner Opas<br />
Chankam, the founder <strong>of</strong> OBK<br />
Design Studio in the UK.<br />
A step away is <strong>Thai</strong> restaurant<br />
E-ga, where top ingredients are<br />
gathered from around the country<br />
for home-style dishes such as<br />
Gaeng Pa (hot and spicy soup),<br />
Gaeng Tai Pla (hot curry with<br />
fermented fish innards), Massaman<br />
curry, and grilled river prawns. The<br />
restaurant is under the umbrella<br />
<strong>of</strong> It’s Happened to be A Closet,<br />
the brainchild <strong>of</strong> fashion designer<br />
Siriwan Tharananithikul, so its<br />
stylish vibes come as no surprise.<br />
Adjacent is a beef lovers’<br />
paradise. Though noodle shop<br />
Rongklannuer only opened last<br />
December, it has quickly become a<br />
foodie magnet thanks to its braised<br />
tender beef and aromatic herbal<br />
broth. Next door is Arteasia Tart<br />
Bar, which delivers <strong>Thai</strong>-style<br />
savoury treats and desserts in the<br />
form <strong>of</strong> creative tarts dreamed up<br />
by owner Ornong Prasarnphanich.<br />
Try the Two-Faced Mango, which<br />
combines the flavours <strong>of</strong> raw<br />
The charm <strong>of</strong> the old buildings is now<br />
attracting a new generation <strong>of</strong> young<br />
entrepreneurs, who are rapidly transforming<br />
Song Wat into a hipster haunt.<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Left<br />
Sweet treats at the<br />
Arteasia Tart Bar<br />
Located on the<br />
second floor,<br />
Arteasia Tart Bar<br />
overlooks the<br />
famous fruit stuccos<br />
adorning the<br />
buildings opposite<br />
Enjoy a steaming<br />
bowl <strong>of</strong> beef noodles<br />
at Rongklannuer<br />
Arteasia Tart Bar<br />
showcases a set<br />
<strong>of</strong> uniquely<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> desserts<br />
E-ga, a stylish<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> restaurant<br />
mango dipped in chili and salt<br />
and mango sticky rice, or Going<br />
Banana, a modern take on banana<br />
in coconut cream.<br />
With bellies full, it could be<br />
time to feast on art. Spanish<br />
graphic designer Myriam Rueda<br />
fell in love with the charm <strong>of</strong> Song<br />
Wat and decided to open Mesa 312<br />
Cultural Lab, which <strong>of</strong>fers painting<br />
and photo workshops as well as<br />
Spanish language lessons.<br />
52<br />
53
CHINATOWN<br />
Clockwise from<br />
Top Right<br />
Hor Fun serves up<br />
Chinese dishes with<br />
a modern twist<br />
CHATA café in front<br />
<strong>of</strong> Baan 2459, a<br />
century-old Sino-<br />
Portuguese mansion<br />
Enjoy a cup <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
and a good book at<br />
The Reader BKK<br />
Lucky Ngou 65,<br />
a stylish<br />
ice cream<br />
parlour <strong>of</strong>fering<br />
homemade<br />
gelato flavours<br />
Strolling Around Phat Sai<br />
A short stroll away is Phat Sai,<br />
which is also being transformed<br />
at the hands <strong>of</strong> Chinatown’s<br />
young-gen entrepreneurs.<br />
Fusion restaurant Hor Fun run<br />
by Yaowarat native Saromwet<br />
Thirapochna <strong>of</strong>fers his family’s<br />
ribbon-noodle recipes passed down<br />
the generations in a contemporary<br />
interior. The best-seller is Guay<br />
Tiew Lord (steamed rice noodle<br />
rolls) with nine toppings including<br />
Kurobuta pork, shrimp, Tasmanian<br />
salmon, braised ox tongue, abalone,<br />
and lobster.<br />
Meanwhile, Ploynapus<br />
Tanalarppipat, a former <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
<strong>Airways</strong> flight attendant, has<br />
turned the first floor <strong>of</strong> her<br />
husband’s old three-storey family<br />
house into gelato emporium<br />
Lucky Ngou 65. Her homemade ice<br />
cream flavours are created to pair<br />
perfectly with five sauces – black<br />
sesame t<strong>of</strong>u, khanom pia (Chinesestyle<br />
flaky pastry) with salted egg<br />
yolk, Gluay Tak (dried banana) and<br />
dark chocolate, and matcha.<br />
If you are seeking a quiet place<br />
to sip an aromatic cup <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee and<br />
read a good book, look no further<br />
than The Reader BKK – Books C<strong>of</strong>fee<br />
Tea. Relocated from Bang Lamphu<br />
to Phat Sai, this café also <strong>of</strong>fers a<br />
selection <strong>of</strong> interesting English and<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> books in a friendly setting.<br />
If history is your thing,<br />
transport yourself to the reign<br />
<strong>of</strong> King Rama VI at the elegant,<br />
century-old Sino-Portuguese<br />
mansion <strong>of</strong> Baan 2459. This<br />
boutique hotel <strong>of</strong>fers only four<br />
rooms, each decked out with<br />
exquisite antique furniture. The<br />
rooms are numbered 2, 4, 5, and<br />
9, according to the Buddhist era <strong>of</strong><br />
its establishment. Its café CHATA<br />
also serves specialty c<strong>of</strong>fee and<br />
homemade treats in elaborate<br />
Sino-Portuguese decor.<br />
Sandwiched between the mighty<br />
Chao Phraya River and Chinatown’s<br />
bustling Yaowarat Road, the<br />
quiet Song Wat and Phat Sai have<br />
managed to retain the heritage <strong>of</strong><br />
bygone days. But their added spice<br />
<strong>of</strong> modern cafés, restaurants and<br />
art spaces now <strong>of</strong>fers a perfect<br />
combination <strong>of</strong> old and new <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
for tourists to explore.<br />
ห้ากเปรีียบเยาวราชเป็็นสีสันยามเย็น<br />
ท่ีเต็็มไปีดีวัยควัามต้่นต้าต้่นใจมีจังห้วัะ<br />
ลู่นไห้ลูไปีดีวัยกระแสของนักท่่องเท่ี ยวั<br />
มากมาย ท่รงวัาดีคงเป็็นเหม ือนชื่่วังเวัลูา<br />
นำาชื่ายามบ่ายท่ีชื่วันให้้เราค่อยๆ ลูะเลีียดี<br />
ไปกัับควัามงดีงามของชื่ีวิิต้วัันวัานท่ี<br />
ดำำารงอย้่ค้่กับผู้้คนวัันนีได้้อย่างกลูมกลืืน<br />
ทรงวาด เป็็นถึนนสายสันๆ ท่ี มี<br />
ควัามยาวั 1,196 เมต้ร มีเสนท่างค้่ขนาน<br />
ไปกัับถึนนเยาวัราชื่แลูะแม่นำาเจาพัระยา<br />
เป็็นห้น่งในถึนนสายปีระวััติิศาสตร์์ของ<br />
กรุงเท่พัฯ ต้ังแต่่ชื่่อท่ี มีควัามห้มายว่่า<br />
พัระมห้ากษัตริิย์ (รัชื่กาลที่่ 5) ท่รงวัาดีลูง<br />
บนแผู้นท่ี เป็็นถึนนสายเศรษฐกิจท่ี มีวััดี<br />
มัสยิดี แลูะศาลูเจา เป็็นสถึานท่ียึึดเห้นียวั<br />
จิต้ใจของผู้้คนห้ลูากศาสนาท่ีอยู่่ด้้วยกัน<br />
อย่างเก่อกููลมากว่่ารอยปีี<br />
ควัามแต้กต่่างท่างวััฒนธรรมท่ี สอดี<br />
ปีระสานอย่างลูงตััวย ังคงมีให้้เห็็นในยุค<br />
ปััจจุบัน เชื่่น ตึึกแถึวัท่ี ไดีรับกลูินอาย<br />
แบบจีนแลูะต้ะวัันต้ก ซ่่งห้ลูายครอบครัวั<br />
ในย่านท่รงวัาดีได้้เปลี่่ยนตึึกแถึวัเห้ลู่า<br />
นันให้้สอดร ับกับวิิถีีชื่ีวิิต้สมัยใหม่่อย่าง<br />
Play Art House แกลูเลูอรีท่ีเป็็นศ้นย์รวัม<br />
ศิลูปีินแลูะนิท่รรศการท่ีสะท้้อนถึึง<br />
อัต้ลูักษณ์เฉพัาะตััวัของวิิถีีชื่ีวิิต้ในย่าน<br />
ท่รงวัาดี นอกจากนี การรวัมตััวกัันของ<br />
ผู้้ปีระกอบการรุ่นใหม่่ ได้้สรางสีสันแลูะ<br />
เสน่ห์์ให้้แก่ถึนนท่รงวัาดี แลูะนำามาซ่่ง<br />
พัลูังแห่่งควัามสรางสรรค์ท่ีนำาไปสู่่การ<br />
คนพับสถึานท่ี น่าสนใจต่่างๆ ท่ังบนถึนน<br />
ท่รงวัาดีเองแลูะในลูะแวักใกล้้เคียง โดีย<br />
เร็วัๆ นี ท่างกลุ่่มผู้้จัดี Made in Song<br />
Wat วัางแผู้นท่ีจะออกไกด์์บุคแลูะแผู้นท่ี<br />
ย่านท่รงวัาดสำำาห้รับนักท่่องเท่ี ยวทั้้ งไท่ย<br />
แลูะต่่างชื่าติิ<br />
สิงท่ีขาดีไปีไม่ไดีค่ออาห้าร ห้ากคุณรัก<br />
สตรีีท่ฟู้ดี คุณจะต้กห้ลูุมรักถึนนท่รงวัาดี<br />
เพัราะเสนท่างสายนีมีรานอาห้ารต้ามท่าง<br />
แลูะซ่อกซ่อยท่ีพร้้อมหย ิบย่นควัามอร่อย<br />
ให้้แก่คุณ ลูองชื่ิมก๋วัยเต้ี ยวัปีลูาลูิมเล่่าซ่า<br />
ท่ี เป็็นท่ี เลู่องลืือถึึง “ลููกชิ้้นปีลูาเด้้งได้้” ซ่่ง<br />
ตำำานาน 80 ปีีของรานก๋วัยเต้ี ยวัแห่่งนี เป็็น<br />
เครืองรับปีระกันควัามอร่อยได้้อย่าง<br />
แน่นอน หรืือลูองสัมผู้ัสซ่าลูาเปีาโบราณ<br />
จากรานก้่ห้ลูงเปีา ท่ีไดีรับการขนานนาม<br />
ว่่าเป็็นห้น่งในซ่าลูาเปีาสููตรแต้จิวัโบราณ<br />
ท่ีอร่อยท่ี สุดี ย่านท่รงวัาดย ังมีอาห้าร<br />
อ่นๆ ให้ลูิมลูองอีกมากมาย ไม่ว่่าจะเป็็น<br />
อุไรห่่านพัะโล้้ ท่ีสููตรลัับ 50 ปีีของราน<br />
ดึึงดููดน ักชื่ิมมาแล้้วรุ่่นต่่อรุ่น หรืือราน<br />
อาเห้ลูียง รานขนมจีบเจาเก่าชื่่อดัังแห่่ง<br />
ถึนนท่รงวัาดที่่ท่ั งอร่อยแลูะราคาย่อมเยา<br />
ท่รงวัาดยัังมีรานอาห้ารร่วัมสมัยท่ี<br />
ห้ลูอมรวัมเสน่ห์์คลูาสสิกของถึนนท่รงวัาดี<br />
เขากับควัามรุ่มรวัยแห่่งยุคสมัยใหม่่อย่าง<br />
อี-กา ท่ีรวัมควัามอร่อยจากห้ลูายๆ ภิาค<br />
มาไว้้ในท่ี เดีียวั หรืือรานโรงกลูั นเน่อ ราน<br />
ก๋วัยเต้ี ยวัเน่ อนองใหม่่ท่ี เน่ อตุ๋๋นลูะมุนลูิน<br />
แลูะนำาซุ่ปีห้อมเครืองสมุนไพัรกำาลูังเป็็น<br />
ท่ีนิยม<br />
ถึนนท่รงวัาดีแลูะถึนนบานใกล้้<br />
เรือนเคียงอย่างพัาดีสายยังมีสิงน่าสนใจ<br />
ให้คนห้า ไม่ว่่าจะเป็็นคาเฟ่ รานอาห้าร<br />
หรืือแกลูเลูอรี แมวั่าถึนนท่ังสองเสนอาจ<br />
เทีียบไม่ไดีกับเยาวัราชื่ในด้้านควัามค่กคัก<br />
แลูะแสงสี สิงท่ีทำำาให้ถึนนเสนนีมีควัาม<br />
พิิเศษไม่เหม ือนใครค่อการผู้สานเสน่ห์์<br />
มรดีกจากครังอดีีต้เขากับไลฟ์์สไต้ลู์<br />
ยุคใหม่่ได้้อย่างลูงตััวั<br />
ตามเข็็มนาฬิิกาจาก<br />
ข็วาบน<br />
ผนังอาคารเก่าแก่ใกล้้<br />
กับโรงแรม Old Town<br />
กับงานกราฟฟิต้ข็อง<br />
Daehyun Kim ศิิล้ปิิน<br />
ชาวเกาหลีี<br />
พิิซซ่าหอฝััน ใช้<br />
ก๋วยเต้๋ยวเส้้นใหญ่่แทน<br />
แป้้งพิิซซ่า ท็อปิด้้วยเป็็ด้<br />
รมควันราด้ซอส้พิิเศิษ<br />
ให้รส้ชาติเป็็ด้ปิักกิ่งดีีๆ<br />
น้่เองค่ะ<br />
กราฟฟิต้ช ้างส้องตัว<br />
สุุด้อลัังการ ผล้งานข็อง<br />
ROA ศิิล้ปิินชาว<br />
เบล้เย้ยมบริเวณท้่จอด้<br />
รถส้าธารณะใกล้้กับ<br />
โกดัังริมแม่นำ้าเจ้าพิระยา<br />
กล้ายเป็็นส้ตร้ทอาร์ตท้่<br />
ผ้คนตามหาในย่าน<br />
ทรงวาด้<br />
PLAY ART HOUSE<br />
Tue-Thu 11am-5pm, Fri-Sun<br />
11am-6pm, +66 (0) 83 656 5466<br />
LIM LAO SA NOODLES<br />
Mon-Sun 3pm-9pm,<br />
+66 (0) 81 339 1299<br />
GU LONG BAO<br />
Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm,<br />
Sun 10am-6pm,<br />
+66 (0) 95 797 5747<br />
URAI HAN PA LO<br />
Mon-Sun 9am-1pm, +66 (0)<br />
2 221 4413, +66 (0) 2 622 9056<br />
AR LIANG KHANOM JEEB<br />
Mon-Sun 11am-8pm,<br />
+66 (0) 89 133 0640<br />
FV CAFE<br />
Mon-Sun 10am-7pm,<br />
+66 (0) 81 866 0533<br />
E-GA<br />
Thu-Tue 10am-10pm,<br />
+66 (0) 81 565 2028<br />
RONGKLANNUER<br />
Mon-Sun 10am-8pm,<br />
+66 (0) 63 830 6335<br />
ARTEASIA TART BAR<br />
Tue-Sun 10am-5pm,<br />
+66 (0) 94 659 6653<br />
MESA 312 CULTURAL LAB<br />
Tue-Sun 10.30am-6pm,<br />
+66 (0) 87 076 5080<br />
HOR FUN<br />
Mon-Sun 11am-10pm,<br />
+66 (0) 82 212 6888<br />
LUCKY NGOU 65<br />
Tue-Fri 3pm-10pm, Sat-Sun<br />
12pm-10pm, +66 (0) 93 926 5926<br />
THE READER BKK - BOOKS<br />
COFFEE TEA<br />
Tue-Sun 10am-6pm,<br />
+66 (0) 94 923 9204<br />
BAAN 2459<br />
24hrs, +66 (0) 82 393 2459<br />
CHATA SPECIALTY COFFEE<br />
Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun 9am-6pm,<br />
Wed-Thu 9am-5pm,<br />
+66 (0) 84 625 2324<br />
54<br />
55
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO<br />
Into the Andaman<br />
Dive in and forget the stress as<br />
the vast ocean embraces you with<br />
its mysterious blue charms. You<br />
may be amazed at the recovery <strong>of</strong><br />
underwater life while exploring<br />
diving spots in Phuket, including the<br />
Anemone Reef, Koh Racha Yai, King<br />
Cruiser Wreck, Koh Dok Mai, Shark<br />
Point, or as far as Koh Phi Phi.<br />
BANGKOK 58 / SAMUI 61 / PHUKET 66 / CHIANG MAI, PATTAYA & TRAT 69<br />
/ PHNOM PENH 70 / SIEM REAP 71 / LUANG PRABANG 72 / SINGAPORE 73<br />
57
HAPPENINGS<br />
THAILAND<br />
BANGKOK<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Secret Behind<br />
the Curtain<br />
FAIRIES’ WONDERLAND<br />
Come for the enchanting<br />
artistry and stay for the nectar<br />
served at the bar. Nightlife<br />
pixies will be delighted by<br />
the reopening <strong>of</strong> The Iron<br />
Fairies, the whimsical haven<br />
that has bewitched <strong>Bangkok</strong>’s<br />
after-dark bar scene for<br />
years. The bar has flitted to a<br />
new location in the heart <strong>of</strong><br />
Phrom Phong but retained its<br />
magical décor and enchanting<br />
ambience. Nothing competes<br />
with the immersive punkwonderland<br />
<strong>of</strong> Iron Fairies.<br />
Open daily 6pm-2am, Opera<br />
Complex Sukhumvit 39, +66 (0)<br />
63 901 1115, facebook.com/<br />
ironfairiesbkk<br />
LOVE VIBE<br />
The Art Gallery is hosting JonOne’s<br />
“Thaï Love” exhibition. A contemporary<br />
<strong>of</strong> Jean Michel Basquiat and Andy<br />
Warhol, JonOne or John Perello burst<br />
onto the art scene with colourful<br />
paintings inspired by his Dominican<br />
roots and masters like Kandinsky and<br />
Jackson Pollock. JonOne’s signature<br />
explosions <strong>of</strong> vibrant colours have<br />
earned him collaborations with global<br />
companies as well as exhibitions in<br />
galleries from Tokyo to Brussels.<br />
Until <strong>June</strong> 26 (free entry), The Art Gallery,<br />
3/F Rosewood <strong>Bangkok</strong> 1041/38<br />
Ploenchit Road, Lumphini, rosewoodhotels.<br />
com/en/<strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
Hidden on the ground floor <strong>of</strong> Mia restaurant,<br />
Behind the Curtain brings an intimate new<br />
twist to the cocktail bar scene. Each night, a<br />
party <strong>of</strong> six people is invited to explore the<br />
bijou and boozy experience <strong>of</strong> unconventional<br />
desserts paired with playful cocktails courtesy<br />
<strong>of</strong> renowned pastry chef Michelle Goh and<br />
skilled bar manager Marc Perez Rodriguez. For<br />
a special treat, try the unique omakase dessert<br />
and cocktail pairing menu: five desserts and<br />
five cocktails showcasing a skilful blend <strong>of</strong><br />
Mediterranean and Asian flavours.<br />
The Omakase Dessert and Cocktail Pairing<br />
experience is available on Thursday, Friday and<br />
Saturday 6pm-9pm (booking is required). Open<br />
Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-midnight, 30 Attha Kawi 1,<br />
+66 (0) 98 862 9659,<br />
reservation@miarestaurantbkk.com<br />
GET TO KNOW US<br />
Is it a fine restaurant, a mysterious theatre, or a sophisticated cocktail bar? The<br />
answer may be all three. From the creative spirit behind Messengerservice Bar<br />
comes Bar Us, a drinking room inspired by ingredients from local farms. The<br />
mixologists experiment with each local ingredient’s unique charm and flavour<br />
before pairing them with exotic spirits, giving birth to one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind cocktails.<br />
Like a fine-dining experience, the cocktail menu is divided into three parts:<br />
Starter, Main, and After. However, there are no rules here. Sensation seekers<br />
can begin with any menu or go for al a carte classic options. All to get to know<br />
US a little better. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-midnight, Sukhumvit 26,<br />
+66 (0) 89 500 1656, us-bar.com<br />
CHILLIN’ AT A FRIEND’S<br />
The historic neighbourhood <strong>of</strong> Talat Noi never runs out <strong>of</strong> up-and-coming bars. Just last<br />
December it welcomed a new addition to the area, Very Nice Bar – a cosy, minimalist<br />
hideaway tucked away on the bustling street. The idea came from a group <strong>of</strong> friends with<br />
a passion for music and design reflected in the artworks hanging on the walls <strong>of</strong> the bar.<br />
Chilling at this place feels like hanging out at a friend’s, with s<strong>of</strong>t music in the background<br />
to allow joyous conversations while munching on comfort food and sipping old favourites<br />
like highballs and draught beer. Open Tuesday-Sunday 6pm-11.30pm, 763 Charoen Krung<br />
Road Talat Noi, +66 (0) 93 320 9231, instagram.com/verynicebar<br />
Photos: Varinthorn Pormajanya, Yoko Sakamoto<br />
58<br />
59
HAPPENINGS<br />
THAILAND<br />
BANGKOK<br />
THAILAND<br />
SAMUI<br />
LUCKY SWEETS<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong>’s Chinatown never runs out <strong>of</strong> fresh takes on<br />
scrumptious flavours. Lucky Ngou, the new kid on the block,<br />
adds a sweet and refreshing touch to the century-old street.<br />
Housed in an antique Chinese-style shophouse, this gelato<br />
place is famous for homemade ice-cream flavours with succulent<br />
sauces and toppings like Black Sesame Soybean Milk and<br />
Caramel Hojicha Tea.<br />
To combat the steamy summer heat, Lucky Ngou also turns<br />
to family recipes for unique <strong>Thai</strong>-Chinese beverages such as<br />
rich honey chrysanthemum juice with konjac, the honey lemon<br />
plum juice, and lemon pomegranate. Open Tuesday-Friday<br />
2pm-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 12-10pm, 84 Phat Sai Rd,<br />
Samphanthawong, +66 (0) 93 926 5926<br />
CRAFTSMAN’S NEW HOUSE<br />
This is not the first time Craftsman Roastery & Brew Bar<br />
has taken over an old building. In 2018, the team opened a<br />
café inside the neo-Renaissance mansion <strong>of</strong> Corrado Feroci,<br />
better known as <strong>Thai</strong>land’s father <strong>of</strong> modern art Silpa Bhirasri.<br />
After three years there, the roastery moved to the landmark<br />
Bumrungnukulkit Printing House on Bamrung Mueang Road.<br />
Once this rental contract was up, Craftsman Roastery’s owner<br />
Netnapa “Waew” Narathatsachan discovered a new vintage<br />
venue – a 300sqm shophouse in Sathupradit 20. This venue was<br />
soon given an industrial-chic vibe and turned into a brew bar<br />
complete with a café, in-house roastery and kitchen.<br />
Highlights are unmissable fresh roasts like Mocha Yuzu,<br />
Dirty, plus newly invented drinks like Samui Holiday, Shakerato,<br />
and Cold Brew J<strong>of</strong>risch. Snacks to savour include walnut, creamy<br />
chicken or mini green curry beef pies or the very naughty Earl<br />
Grey Caramel cake. Looking for something substantial? Go<br />
for the Roti with Australian Beef Curry or Duck Confit with<br />
Pineapple Curry Sauce served with Rice. Open Monday to Friday:<br />
7am to 6pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays: 8.30am to 6pm,<br />
+66 (0) 85 820 4010, www.facebook.com/craftsmanroastery<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Lanna with a Twist<br />
When you are in <strong>Bangkok</strong> and<br />
craving a bowl <strong>of</strong> authentic Khao<br />
Soi, there’s no better place to<br />
head than North on Sukhumvit<br />
33 for a Lanna-flavoured<br />
gastronomical adventure.<br />
The restaurant, located in<br />
a colonial-style house, <strong>of</strong>fers<br />
views <strong>of</strong> a lush green garden<br />
and touches <strong>of</strong> beautiful<br />
Lanna heritage.<br />
At first, North only served<br />
an eight-course tasting menu<br />
for 2,888++ baht/pax, but with<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong>ians demanding far<br />
more, the restaurant began<br />
<strong>of</strong>fering à la carte lunch. And<br />
on this menu is the restaurant<br />
owner’s secret family recipe for<br />
Khao Soi from Lampang.<br />
To prime your palate, choose<br />
from a plate <strong>of</strong> Northern Hors<br />
d’oeuvres, Santol, or Pomelo Salad.<br />
Now you<br />
should be ready to try Khantoke,<br />
or a northern-style plate<br />
<strong>of</strong> five different <strong>of</strong>ferings<br />
– Hang Lay Curry (pork or<br />
beef), Galangal Chilli Paste<br />
with Steamed Vegetables,<br />
Sour Fish Curry and sautéed<br />
vegetables, <strong>Thai</strong> Spicy Sausage,<br />
and Pork Crackling, all served<br />
with sticky or steamed rice.<br />
If you’re a fan <strong>of</strong> Khao Soi,<br />
you have a choice <strong>of</strong> organic<br />
chicken, crabmeat (limited to<br />
14 servings daily), Kurobuta<br />
Chashu pork, beef shank,<br />
Wagyu beef, or Dry Khao Soi<br />
with River Prawn. Open daily,<br />
à la carte lunch is served from<br />
11.30am to 2.30pm and dinner<br />
(8-Course Tasting Menu) from<br />
6pm-11pm, +66 (0) 61 426 2642,<br />
www.north-restaurant.com<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Savoury Delights<br />
on Lamai Beach<br />
SALT, a new boutique eatery<br />
on a peaceful stretch <strong>of</strong> Lamai<br />
Beach Road, infuses a welcoming<br />
atmosphere with a touch <strong>of</strong><br />
sophistication.<br />
Created by BR Munns<br />
International, which brought<br />
The Cliff Bar & Grill and Bondi<br />
Restaurant to Koh Samui,<br />
SALT <strong>of</strong>fers casual luxury at<br />
surprisingly low prices.<br />
Executive Chef Kwang Apinya<br />
crafts traditional <strong>Thai</strong> dishes<br />
with a unique twist while Head<br />
Chef Micaela Markides brings<br />
cosmopolitan flavours from her<br />
time working aboard yachts.<br />
The menu <strong>of</strong>fers a global<br />
voyage, ranging from Japanese<br />
sushi and Italian pasta to<br />
gourmet American burgers and<br />
Mexican tacos. The <strong>Thai</strong> menu,<br />
meanwhile, includes favourites<br />
like Tom Kha and Khao Soi,<br />
while barbecue options include<br />
Portuguese Peri Peri chicken,<br />
Espetada steak and grilled<br />
fish topped with an exquisite<br />
Peruvian salsa. Also starring are<br />
gargantuan and delicious king<br />
and tiger prawns, as well as sides<br />
like Greek salad and Spanish rice.<br />
SALT is perfect for families or<br />
groups and has something for<br />
everyone. +66 (0) 93 787 5546,<br />
www.saltsamui.com<br />
PARADISE IS A FARM<br />
Spend the day immersed in nature at Paradise Park Farm.<br />
Nestled on the hillside <strong>of</strong> Khao Pom, Samui’s highest mountain,<br />
the farm boasts a panoramic view <strong>of</strong> the coastline, making it<br />
one <strong>of</strong> the best viewpoints on the island. What makes this<br />
place adult-friendly is the infinity pool with jacuzzi and pool bar.<br />
Children and adults alike are also treated with beautiful gardens<br />
where you can encounter anything from exotic birds, peacocks,<br />
emus and dear to rabbits, sheep, goats and more. Work up an<br />
appetite on the farm, then head to the onsite restaurant for<br />
a feed. +66 (0) 81 255 1222, www.facebook.com/paradiseparkfarm<br />
SAMUI SEAFOOD LEGEND<br />
Craving authentic tastes served with a gorgeous vista? Saunter<br />
over to Sabienglae Restaurant for time-tested seafood staples<br />
that have been praised by gourmets for the past 18 years.<br />
For a dynamite taste experience, try their celebrated dishes like<br />
Sabienglae Signature Spicy Salad, Steamed White Snapper with<br />
Lime & Chilli, Deep-fried Sandy Fish with Turmeric, Oysters,<br />
and <strong>Thai</strong> Curry with Grilled Fish.<br />
After its first branch at Lamai Beach met with approval from<br />
local and international foodies, Sabienglae has now expanded<br />
to Bang Rak Beach, sharing its seafood-packed delights with an<br />
even larger gourmet audience. +66 (0) 61 239 4195,<br />
www.instagram.com/sabienglae_samui<br />
60<br />
61
HAPPENINGS<br />
THAILAND<br />
SAMUI<br />
A CAFFEINE SHOT WITH ‘VITAMIN SEA’<br />
C<strong>of</strong>fee lovers get an extra shot <strong>of</strong> “vitamin sea” as they<br />
enjoy caffeine-loaded beverages at the seaside Rice x De<br />
Pier Samui. Alongside the c<strong>of</strong>fee selection is a menu <strong>of</strong><br />
local and international classics including Phad <strong>Thai</strong> and<br />
Eggs Benedict. Or cool down with a Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
rosé or crisp cold beer. +66 (0) 77 430 680,<br />
www.facebook.com/ricexdepier<br />
CRAVE-WORTHY WHOLESOME BITES<br />
Copper brings a golden glow to Koh Samui’s Bophut area, serving<br />
healthy, fresh <strong>Thai</strong> and Western classics made with locally grown<br />
produce and imported delicacies. The menu has a springtime feel<br />
with each dish loaded with fresh greens. Vegan and vegetarian<br />
dishes are a speciality while health-conscious omnivores<br />
can graze on rainbow-shaded quinoa bowls topped with<br />
grilled salmon, shrimp, sashimi or cooked chicken. Familiar<br />
breakfast-brunch favourites include Avocado & Eggs on<br />
Toast, Eggs Benedict, Cereal Bowls and Quiche Lorraine.<br />
Feeling naughty? Stop by the pastry and dessert section<br />
for sweet seduction. +66 (0) 61 426 8788,<br />
www.copperkohsamui.com<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Seafood<br />
with a<br />
View<br />
Fancy a spectacular view with your dinner?<br />
Head to The Ro<strong>of</strong> Samui, a hilltop<br />
restaurant where local and international<br />
classics are served with a side <strong>of</strong> stunning<br />
Samui seascape. The menu packs a boatload<br />
<strong>of</strong> seafood options, with a whole page<br />
dedicated to lobster creations – highlighted<br />
by the crustacean wrapped in a blanket <strong>of</strong><br />
gooey cheese. Fans <strong>of</strong> fiery flavours will<br />
get a kick out <strong>of</strong> Southern <strong>Thai</strong> dishes like<br />
Gaeng Som (sour curry), Khua Kling (dry<br />
curry with minced pork), Phad Kapi Sataw<br />
Goong (prawns and stink beans stir-fried<br />
with shrimp paste) and Bai Liang Phad<br />
Khai (stir-fried malindjo leaves with eggs).<br />
Don’t miss their cocktail classics with<br />
moreish twists. +66 (0) 65 547 8898,<br />
www.facebook.com/thero<strong>of</strong>samui<br />
DON’T FEAR SHRIMP PASTE AND STINKY BEANS<br />
No trip to Samui is complete without trying a dish flavoured<br />
with shrimp paste or studded with stinky beans. For a true<br />
taste <strong>of</strong> the South’s fiery cuisine, head to Kapi Sator Samui.<br />
Our top five favourites on the menu are Phad Kapi Sataw<br />
Goong (prawns stir-fried with shrimp paste and stinky beans),<br />
Moo Khua Khoei (pork stir-fried with shrimp paste), Wai Khua<br />
(octopus in coconut milk), Gaeng Som Pla Gao (sour curry<br />
with grouper) and Spicy Crab Egg Salad. +66 (0) 98 799 8007,<br />
www.facebook.com/storkapi.samui<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Oasis <strong>of</strong> Zen in Samui<br />
Nothing says “I love you” to an aching body like a good spa. A fine<br />
place to experience one is at Tamarind Springs Forest Spa located<br />
just a stone’s throw from Lamai Beach. Situated inside a forest, this<br />
spa <strong>of</strong>fers a variety <strong>of</strong> treatments, ranging from <strong>Thai</strong> Yoga Massage<br />
and Hot and Cold Stone Massage to Lymphatic Drainage, to carve<br />
out a spa experience that your body will enjoy. If you’re after a one<strong>of</strong>-a-kind<br />
experience, then go for a herbal steam treatment inside<br />
a cave. If one day is not enough, you can spend a few days relaxing<br />
and rejuvenating in their Zen-inducing homestays.<br />
+66 (0) 80 569 6654, www.tamarindsprings.com/en<br />
Photo: Tamarind Springs Forest Spa<br />
SOUTHERN THAI CUISINE AT ITS FINEST<br />
When it comes to Southern <strong>Thai</strong> cuisine served<br />
in a refined setting, Long Dtai — Southern <strong>Thai</strong><br />
Authentic Fine Dining ticks every box. This<br />
seaside establishment in Koh Samui’s Cape <strong>Fah</strong>n<br />
Hotel is a collaboration between Cape & Kantary<br />
Hotels and renowned Australian chef, David<br />
Thompson. The culinary genius behind Michelinstarred<br />
Nahm and Aksorn, Chef Thompson has<br />
shipped his prowess to Samui, working his magic<br />
on time-tested Southern seafood delicacies as<br />
well as restoring many forgotten recipes. He also<br />
promotes sustainability by sourcing from local<br />
fishermen. Nestled in the embrace <strong>of</strong> a private<br />
island just <strong>of</strong>f Koh Samui, this hotel serves up<br />
privacy with five-star flavours. +66 (0) 77 602 301,<br />
www.instagram.com/longdtai<br />
YACHTING FUN WITH YOUR LOVED ONES<br />
Admire the azure Gulf <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land from a private<br />
yacht, Boutique Yachting <strong>of</strong>fers cruises around Koh<br />
Samui on the Naga – a luxurious Turkish “gulet” with<br />
a beautiful vintage design and modern amenities.<br />
Featuring a sun deck, sky lounge, dressing room,<br />
toilet and shower, the Naga is a prefect vessel to<br />
explore Samui, and bring your tropical sailing dreams<br />
to life. +66 (0) 65 420 7999, boutiqueyachting.com<br />
62<br />
63
HAPPENINGS<br />
THAILAND<br />
SAMUI<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
All the Seafood<br />
You Want and More<br />
The Moonrise Beach Bar & Seafood Koh Samui comes with an<br />
ocean-fresh catch. Part-bar, part-restaurant, it serves up an<br />
impressive array <strong>of</strong> seafood dishes prepared by various cooking<br />
methods – think frying, grilling, sautéing and boiling. Order the<br />
Gaeng Pu Bai Chaphlu (crab curry with betel leaves) for creamy<br />
goodness or Pla Muek Phad Khai Khem (squid stir-fried with<br />
salted eggs) for a rich, salty hit <strong>of</strong> preserved egg. If you’re looking<br />
for something that packs a punch, try the flavour-filled Hor Mok<br />
Thalay (seafood curry souffle) or Fish with Soya Ginger Sauce. But<br />
the show-stealer here is the Seafood Bucket. It comes in different<br />
sizes from medium to extra-large – perfect for those who want to<br />
eat seafood until the moon goes down. +66 (0) 88 857 5563,<br />
www.facebook.com/moonrisekohsamui<br />
SUNSET, SUNDOWNER AND WOOD-FIRED PIZZA<br />
The SEA SUN Samui seafront café, bar and restaurant<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers a seascape to melt the heart, along with c<strong>of</strong>fee,<br />
cocktails and delicious food to fortify the belly. Highlights<br />
on the menu are the wood-fired pizzas, Seafood Spaghetti<br />
Marinara, Roasted Chicken Breast served on a bed <strong>of</strong><br />
pureed potatoes, Gaeng Pu Khanom Cheen, and Extreme<br />
Chocolate Waffle. SEA SUN Samui is the perfect spot to<br />
watch the sun go down with a sundowner in hand and<br />
your order on the grill. +66 (0) 77 423 641,<br />
www.instagram.com/seasun.samui<br />
GOING APE FOR BRUNCH<br />
The beachside 4Monkeys C<strong>of</strong>fee & Bar – New Gen is a perfect<br />
spot to unwind and soak in the sun, sand and waves. Serious<br />
attention paid to the quality <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee extends to the delicious<br />
brunch <strong>of</strong>ferings, both sweet and savoury.<br />
Stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner and feast on their fiery<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> fare or comforting international classics. Alternatively, you<br />
can cool down with a tasty sundae or refreshing sangria after a<br />
long stroll along the beach. +66 (0) 94 746 4878,<br />
www.instagram.com/4monkeys_newgen<br />
SAMUI RAINFOREST ADVENTURE<br />
Why hike when you can fly? For a day, you can hover high above<br />
Koh Samui’s evergreen jungle at Tree Bridge Zipline Samui. The<br />
zipline comprises eight cables that span 1,200 metres, allowing the<br />
adventurer in you to explore a large area <strong>of</strong> the forest without setting<br />
a foot on the ground. Apart from the adrenaline rush, Tree Bridge<br />
Zipline Samui also <strong>of</strong>fers a waterfall and café stop as part <strong>of</strong> your<br />
zipline package +66 (0) 81 113 4499, www.treebridgezipline.com<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
A Slice <strong>of</strong> Italy<br />
in Samui<br />
Take a shortcut to the<br />
Mediterranean Sea at Salefino<br />
Koh Samui, where you can feast<br />
on fine Italian fare cooked with<br />
grade-A ingredients imported<br />
from Italy, including sardines,<br />
Goro mussels, caviar, artichokes,<br />
white asparagus, and more.<br />
Dishes like Red Tuna Tartare,<br />
Ricotta and Truffle Ravioli and<br />
Basil Walnut Pesto Lasagna will<br />
please the palate <strong>of</strong> gourmets,<br />
while the picturesque vista<br />
serves as an ideal spot for<br />
lovebirds. +66 (0) 91 825 2190,<br />
www.salefinosamui.com<br />
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HAPPENINGS<br />
THAILAND<br />
PHUKET<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Cuban Connection<br />
Overlooking the sea just south <strong>of</strong> Kamala Beach<br />
on Phuket’s idyllic west coast, Casa Boho wraps<br />
guests in Latin luxury. The uber-stylish eatery<br />
and cocktail bar <strong>of</strong>fers a swirling blend <strong>of</strong> Latin-<br />
American flavours and an airy tropical style, set<br />
against a <strong>Thai</strong> tapestry.<br />
Its Colombian chef has crafted a masterpiece<br />
<strong>of</strong> a menu starring blackened salmon with<br />
papaya mojo, guacamole and tacos de birria with<br />
succulent angus beef braised for three days, and<br />
Oaxacan cheese from Mexico.<br />
Casa Boho is not an eat-and-run type <strong>of</strong> place,<br />
as evidenced in the intriguing cocktail menu.<br />
While you will find classic favourites like pisco<br />
sours and white sangria, this is the place to be<br />
daring and branch out with a chicano de pisco<br />
made with saffron-infused pisco, lime, ginger<br />
beer, and chocolate bitters, or a maid in Cuba<br />
created with light rum, cucumber, mint, lime,<br />
sugar, soda, and absinthe. Open 12pm-10pm,<br />
+66 (0) 76 231 234, www.casabohophuket.com<br />
SHOOT , EM UP FOR REAL<br />
You peek around the corner with your heart<br />
thumping. Was that a shadow playing tricks with<br />
your mind, or the enemy lying in wait? As you round<br />
the corner you spot the muzzle <strong>of</strong> a gun. It’s too late,<br />
you’ve just been shot... by your 10-year-old kid... but<br />
it’s only laser tag!<br />
Battlefield Phuket is the perfect place to bring<br />
gaming fantasies to life. A fun activity for ages six<br />
and up, the venue has room for plenty <strong>of</strong> players.<br />
Choose from an entire arsenal <strong>of</strong> weapons, from<br />
sniper rifles and machine guns to mines and grenades.<br />
They <strong>of</strong>fer 12 popular game modes to choose from<br />
plus more than 250 others available on request.<br />
+66 (0) 96 634 5895, battlefield-phuket.com<br />
CREATIVE COFFEE AND BRUNCH<br />
Sure, you can get a cup <strong>of</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee at the gas station, but it’s going to be a far cry from the<br />
liquid black gold served at the surf-themed Kanin C<strong>of</strong>fee. With a daily selection <strong>of</strong> dark and<br />
medium blends as well as single-origin options, even a basic Americano or latte is a pleasure.<br />
Even more intriguing are some <strong>of</strong> speciality drinks on <strong>of</strong>fer such as the vibrant beetroot latte,<br />
coco einspanner (hot espresso topped with cool whipped cream) spiked with palm sugar,<br />
special cream, and toasted coconut, and the surprisingly delicious pomelo sunset – espresso,<br />
orange zest, and a splash <strong>of</strong> pomelo juice.<br />
Come to this cool Choeng Thale shop for the c<strong>of</strong>fee and stay for the all-day brunch. The<br />
unique drinks are partnered with creative eats like the scamp jumbo shrimp croissant with<br />
scrambled egg, beetroot hummus, grilled asparagus, and scampi shrimp. Sourdough fan? Try<br />
the classic prosciutto toast with grilled asparagus, poached egg, and parmigiano cheese.<br />
Open daily: 8am-6pm, +66 (0) 96 774 7309, www.facebook.com/kanincafe<br />
ALL SMOKE, NO SECRETS<br />
They don’t mince words with the name <strong>of</strong> this restaurant, nor<br />
with their slogan, “real food for real people”. It’s no marketing<br />
gimmick. The food is made with real fire and real smoke and if<br />
you’re a real person, you’re going to really like this place.<br />
This fairly recent addition to Choeng Thale’s foodscape is<br />
housed in a brand new industrial-chic style building all on its<br />
own. The ambiance is a perfect fit for the flavours and they<br />
also have car parking, a valuable feature in burgeoning Phuket.<br />
So, what’s sizzling on the grill nestled in the smoker?<br />
How about 400-gram Australian tenderloin, filet mignon with<br />
Bearnaise sauce and truffle Espagnole, or Swedish meatballs<br />
with lingonberry jam? Ever tried beer-can chicken? It turns out<br />
that grilling a chicken stuffed with an open can <strong>of</strong> beer makes<br />
for some <strong>of</strong> the juiciest and flavourful meat imaginable!<br />
Fire and Smoke is open Tuesday - Sunday: 5pm-11.59pm,<br />
+66 (0) 98 062 4000, fireandsmokephuket.com<br />
COCONUT PICKLEBALL<br />
The Coconut Pickleball Center is located at the Coconut Tennis Academy on the Prince<br />
<strong>of</strong> Songkla University campus in Kathu. What in the world is pickleball, you ask? Don’t be<br />
misled, there are no actual pickles involved. Pickleball is a fairly new sport that has become<br />
wildly popular over the past few years. The most accurate description <strong>of</strong> this sport is pingpong<br />
meets tennis meets badminton.<br />
The appeal <strong>of</strong> pickleball isn’t in its originality, but its accessibility. The equipment is cheap,<br />
the rules are simple, and it’s fairly easy to play. You can play one-on-one or doubles and nearly<br />
all ages and fitness levels can participate – no need for years <strong>of</strong> lessons like tennis. The<br />
Coconut Pickleball Center has comfy facilities and all the equipment you’ll need. Advance<br />
booking is recommended via their Facebook page or by email. coconuttennisacademy@gmail.com,<br />
Sport Complex Prince <strong>of</strong> Songkhla University Campus, 80 Vichit Songkhram Rd, Kathu, Phuket,<br />
+66 (0) 86 300 9718, www.facebook.com/Coconuttennisacademy<br />
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HAPPENINGS<br />
THAILAND<br />
PHUKET<br />
THAILAND<br />
CHIANG MAI / PATTAYA / TRAT<br />
FINEST AUSTRALIAN FLAVOURS<br />
With Chef Oat (Nattaphon Othanawathakij) at the helm, this Phuket Town eatery dips<br />
a toe in upscale cuisine while keeping one foot planted in honest, strong flavours. Chef<br />
Oat’s resume includes a decade in Melbourne catering for Australia’s most prestigious<br />
events and working in some <strong>of</strong> the world’s top-rated restaurants. Oh, and he also won the<br />
Iron Chef <strong>Thai</strong>land. Now, he’s got his own gig in Phuket, a wise choice seeing it’s one <strong>of</strong><br />
the hottest culinary spots on earth.<br />
HEH proclaims it is “bringing Melbourne to the Andaman”, so don’t be surprised to<br />
find plenty <strong>of</strong> fresh seafood on the menu. The theme is minimalist with flair. Think thinly<br />
sliced giant trevally with tomato consommé, rock lobster, tangy yuzu beurre blanc, and<br />
a mulberry tart or sticky date pudding to round things <strong>of</strong>f. Reservation recommended.<br />
Open daily (except Tuesdays) from 5pm till late, +66 (0) 82 619 0527, hehphuket.com<br />
DESERT ISLAND<br />
This tiny little island called Koh Kaeo is situated just a kilometre from one <strong>of</strong> Phuket’s<br />
top destinations, Laem Phromthep. However, with its unspoiled beach, dazzling<br />
corals, and picturesque small temple, you might as well be a world away. You’re<br />
forgiven for not having heard <strong>of</strong> this 700-metre-long islet, as it’s not exactly listed in<br />
tour brochures. You’ll find no 7-Elevens here, or much <strong>of</strong> anything really, but that’s<br />
kind <strong>of</strong> the point. While it is accessible by adventurous kayakers or paddleboarders<br />
from Ya Nui Beach, they should be very careful with the weather and tidal currents.<br />
Fortunately, longtail boats can be hired on Rawai Beach for the short trip. Plan<br />
ahead, pack a picnic, bring a snorkel and mask, and make a chill afternoon <strong>of</strong> it.<br />
Map for 7.746688, 98.301896<br />
DOOR TO UNDERWATER PARADISE<br />
There’s no doubt that Phuket has a lot to <strong>of</strong>fer on land. Visitors<br />
can find some <strong>of</strong> the best food, luxurious spas, world-class<br />
shopping, and a whole lot more. While most are perfectly<br />
content with that, many have realised an entire alternative<br />
realm <strong>of</strong> wonder lies just beneath the surface <strong>of</strong> the water. A<br />
great way to access this paradise is by scuba diving and a great<br />
way to learn scuba is at Local Dive <strong>Thai</strong>land.<br />
Conveniently located in the heart <strong>of</strong> Rawai, Local Dive<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers up-to-date facilities and international instructors. A<br />
whole raft <strong>of</strong> PADI courses are available, from intro to scuba,<br />
to open water, to dive master certifications. The centre has<br />
an onsite training pool and a purpose-built boat running<br />
trips to the best dive locations in the region every day,<br />
with longer-duration liveaboard holidays available as well.<br />
+66 (0) 76 384 285, www.localdivethailand.com<br />
PARTY WITH A HEART<br />
Even better than having a good time is having a good time for a<br />
good cause. On Saturday, <strong>May</strong> 20, come enjoy a special night out<br />
filled with great food and drink, live bands, and a silent auction, all<br />
in the name <strong>of</strong> philanthropy.<br />
This annual event, held at the Angsana ACES and hosted by<br />
the Phuket Hotels Association (PHA), was established with the<br />
goal <strong>of</strong> raising funds to finance 20 hospitality scholarships and<br />
traineeships to benefit Phuket students. Recipients are promising<br />
young adults who would otherwise not get this opportunity. The<br />
goal is to raise 4 million baht.<br />
The masquerade-themed event will include live music,<br />
a <strong>Thai</strong> and international menu planned by talented chefs <strong>of</strong><br />
member hotels, as well as spectacular cocktails by the island’s<br />
top mixologists. +66 (0) 76 609 258<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
SUP<br />
into the<br />
Sunset<br />
Summer Sup Beach Bar could<br />
well be the best spot for sunset<br />
on Koh Chang’s longest beach,<br />
Khlong Phrao.<br />
Highly recommended<br />
activities during high season<br />
(November to April) include<br />
stand-up paddle boarding<br />
(SUP) and kayaking. Or you can<br />
just lounge on the beach with<br />
a Mojito Passion, savouring<br />
the tang <strong>of</strong> freshly squeezed<br />
passion fruit with a tangerine<br />
sky at sundown. Other options<br />
to light up your evening<br />
include a Mai Tai, the bar’s<br />
EVERYTHING UNDER ONE TREE<br />
The Treescape Pattaya <strong>of</strong>fers a whole world under one canopy<br />
– a café, a working space, and a full-service restaurant. Guests<br />
can settle under the indoor tree in the cool white interior, or<br />
duck into the garden for the breeze and daybeds. A minimalist<br />
dream, the two-storey mansion makes a perfect backdrop for<br />
Instagrammers. Its all-day restaurant <strong>of</strong>fers over 60 à la carte<br />
dishes, special desserts, and pastries. Signatures range from<br />
classic <strong>Thai</strong> dishes to favourite fusion recipes like Khao Phad<br />
Rot Fai (railway kitchen-style fried rice), crispy pork crackling<br />
stir-fried with chilli and garlic, spaghetti with squid ink and<br />
fermented egg, and Phanaeng curry with grilled Australian beef<br />
on rice. Speciality drinks to beat the heat include Es Lemo<br />
(espresso shots infused with fresh lime juice), Es Bianco de<br />
Coco (espresso shots topped with coconut milk, milk, and<br />
coconut chips), and Lemo Butterflee (Butterfly pea tea with<br />
fresh lemon). The working space is open all day with free<br />
wifi and electricity. Open daily from 8am to 8pm, Pattaya-<br />
Na Kluea Rd, Pattaya City, Bang Lamung District, Chon Buri,<br />
+66 (0) 93 452 4166, www.facebook.com/Treescape.pattaya<br />
most popular drink. It’s snacks<br />
and drinks only at this place, but<br />
visitors can get a taste <strong>of</strong> local<br />
dishes at the restaurant nearby.<br />
SUP Beach Bar’s water activities<br />
are also available from <strong>May</strong> to<br />
October, depending on weather<br />
conditions. But if the wind blows<br />
too hard in low season, expect<br />
the night-time party vibe to<br />
get even stronger. Open Thursday<br />
to Tuesday from 12am to 10pm,<br />
+66 (0) 98 364 4748, www.facebook.<br />
com/SummerSupKohchang<br />
HUNGRY FOR HOME-GROWN CHIANG MAI FLAVOURS?<br />
Farm Story House café has a great there’s a co-working corner where<br />
tale to tell: Ingredients picked fresh digital nomads can snuggle down and<br />
from its cottage garden for modern plug in.<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> fusion dishes served in Zen-like The café also runs C<strong>of</strong>fee Classes<br />
cosy surroundings.<br />
(sensory, cupping, and home brewing<br />
On the menu are Koi in the Garden techniques), <strong>Thai</strong> dessert cooking<br />
(spicy chicken with tomato salad workshops, and DIY art workshops<br />
served with seasonal vegetables), (natural soap-making, paper-cutting<br />
Mackerel Riceberry Salad served with classes). From <strong>May</strong> to <strong>June</strong>, customers<br />
chilli paste, northern-style Phad <strong>Thai</strong>, get the chance to taste first batches <strong>of</strong><br />
and more.<br />
single-origin c<strong>of</strong>fee from local growers<br />
The local community flavour including Ler Tor Gold farm in Tak.<br />
extends to its single-origin c<strong>of</strong>fee Open daily (closed on Wednesday) from<br />
sourced by Friends Trade’s local farms 8am to 5pm, +66 (0) 81 629 1662,<br />
across the North. Along with free wifi www.facebook.com/farmstorycnx<br />
68 69
HAPPENINGS<br />
CAMBODIA<br />
PHNOM PENH / SIEM REAP<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Authentic<br />
Khmer Dining<br />
Influential Cambodian cook,<br />
food writer and activist Chef<br />
Rotanak Ros, better known<br />
as Chef Nak, continues<br />
to break new ground in<br />
promoting Khmer cuisine.<br />
As a pioneering female chef<br />
and fierce advocate for local<br />
cuisine and ingredients, Chef<br />
Nak has dedicated her career<br />
to safeguarding traditional<br />
recipes that are at risk <strong>of</strong><br />
disappearing. Over the last 15<br />
years, she has travelled the<br />
country, working with families<br />
to record hundreds <strong>of</strong> recipes<br />
and share them with the world<br />
GOLD FEVER<br />
The region’s best athletes are training for battle in the <strong>2023</strong><br />
edition <strong>of</strong> the Southeast Asian Games. Better known as the<br />
SEA Games, the 32 nd edition will see fierce competition across<br />
38 sports categories for two weeks in <strong>May</strong>. Cambodia is hosting<br />
the biennial multi-sport event in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap,<br />
Sihanoukville, Kampot and Kep provinces. The Morodok Techo<br />
National Stadium in the capital will serve as the main arena for<br />
the games and host both the opening and closing ceremonies.<br />
Following the <strong>2023</strong> SEA Games, the city will also host the<br />
ASEAN Para Games <strong>2023</strong> from <strong>June</strong> 1 to 10. <strong>May</strong> 5-17; Morodok<br />
Techo National Stadium, Phnom Penh; cambodia<strong>2023</strong>.com<br />
Unique Circus Stories<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
More than just a circus, performers under this<br />
magical big top tent use theatre, music, dance<br />
and acrobatics to tell unique Cambodian tales.<br />
This eclectic show is presented by artists from<br />
the Phare Ponleu Selpak vocational training<br />
centre in Battambang. Each show tells tales<br />
inspired by real-life experiences, dealing with<br />
themes like war, discrimination, relationships,<br />
poverty and ghosts. Filled with energy,<br />
enthusiasm, emotion and talent, Phare Circus<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers visitors a thrilling ride through the local<br />
culture. Daily performances from 8pm; tickets<br />
start from USD18; www.pharecircus.org<br />
WORLD’S TOP BARTENDERS<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> the world’s best<br />
hottest bars. In <strong>May</strong>, Sora Sky<br />
bartenders continue to choose<br />
Bar hosts Hiroyasu Kayama,<br />
Phnom Penh to showcase their<br />
one <strong>of</strong> Japan’s most influential<br />
creativity and talent thanks<br />
bartenders. The seasoned<br />
to the Rosewood Bar Series<br />
mixologist behind Tokyo’s<br />
programme. Hosted at the<br />
eight-seater Bar Benfiddich<br />
Rosewood Phnom Penh’s Sora<br />
(No. 48 on The World’s 50<br />
Sky Bar, the event features<br />
Best Bars list) will guide guests<br />
individuals and establishments<br />
through a night <strong>of</strong> spontaneity,<br />
who made it to the World’s<br />
impeccable attention to detail,<br />
50 Best Bars list. This year,<br />
and one-<strong>of</strong>-a-kind concoctions.<br />
the programme serves up<br />
<strong>May</strong> 25-27, from 8pm till late;<br />
a curated list <strong>of</strong> top-ranked<br />
Sora Sky Bar@Rosewood Phnom<br />
talents from the planet’s 50<br />
Penh; +855 23 936 860<br />
through her website, social<br />
media, cookbooks, culinary<br />
school – and now her very<br />
own restaurant. Chef Nak<br />
is sharing recipes crafted<br />
through painstaking research<br />
in an intimate home-dining<br />
experience where guests<br />
can discover the secrets <strong>of</strong><br />
Cambodian cuisine.<br />
From USD350 for two (advance<br />
booking required due to limited<br />
seats); chefnak.com<br />
BUZZING ART HIVE<br />
The Factory is one <strong>of</strong> Phnom<br />
Penh’s newest and most<br />
vibrant art and creative<br />
spaces. A former garment<br />
factory, the facility has been<br />
repurposed as an impressive<br />
co-working space. But The<br />
Factory is more than just<br />
a place where work gets<br />
done; it is also a hangout<br />
for the city’s creatives<br />
and artists. Phnom Penh’s<br />
mixed-use IT and creative<br />
hub is designed to cultivate<br />
the next generation <strong>of</strong><br />
Cambodian entrepreneurs,<br />
change makers and creative<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essionals. It is also a<br />
place to discover street art<br />
and culture. In addition to<br />
the murals that adorn the<br />
walls <strong>of</strong> the complex, there<br />
is also an art gallery on-site<br />
as well as a retail and F&B<br />
space. Open daily from<br />
6am to 9pm;<br />
factoryphnompenh.com<br />
ZIPPING THROUGH ANGKOR<br />
Get a bird’s eye view <strong>of</strong> the local flora and fauna as you “zip”<br />
over the UNESCO World Heritage Site <strong>of</strong> Angkor Archaeological<br />
Park. Opened in 2016, this heart-pumping adventure can last<br />
anything from one to three hours depending on the group size<br />
and length <strong>of</strong> zipline course chosen. Apart from giving guests a<br />
chance to soar and swoop through the treetops, Angkor Zipline<br />
also <strong>of</strong>fers canopy and riding tours as well as guided walks.<br />
From USD49 per person; angkorzipline.com<br />
PRESERVING LOCAL HANDICRAFTS<br />
The Satcha Handicrafts Centre in facility. The Satcha Handicrafts<br />
Siem Reap lovingly nurtures and Centre also <strong>of</strong>fers visitors an<br />
promotes traditional Cambodian opportunity to better understand<br />
handicrafts through its new<br />
Khmer craftsmanship and the talent<br />
incubation centre. Opened to<br />
it takes to preserve its centuries-old<br />
support and rejuvenate crafts by practices. Visitors can browse and<br />
combining traditional knowledge purchase souvenirs in the showroom<br />
with contemporary design, the centre and chill out with refreshments in the<br />
nurtures local artisans through large c<strong>of</strong>feeshop. Open daily 8am to 7pm;<br />
workshops held in a purpose-built satcha-handicraft.com<br />
70 71
HAPPENINGS<br />
LAOS<br />
LUANG PRABANG<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
From the Heart<br />
to the Table<br />
Executive Chef Larisa<br />
Vesterbacka’s ambition<br />
to capture the timeless<br />
flavours <strong>of</strong> Laos’ oldworld<br />
charm has elevated<br />
Luang Prabang’s dining<br />
scene to new heights. At<br />
Tam Nan restaurant in<br />
La Résidence Phou Vao,<br />
a Belmond Hotel, Chef<br />
Larisa employs traditional<br />
slow-cooking methods to<br />
extract rich and authentic<br />
Laotian flavours. These<br />
include cooking with<br />
bamboo, banana leaves<br />
and fresh coconut over<br />
charcoal or stewing in a<br />
clay pot. With 15 years’<br />
experience in Asian cuisine<br />
spanning China, <strong>Thai</strong>land<br />
and Cambodia, Larisa’s<br />
instinctive approach<br />
and lifelong passion<br />
for electrifying spices,<br />
flavours and interesting<br />
textures course through<br />
Tam Nan’s menu.<br />
Naviengkham Village, Phu<br />
Vao Road, Luang<br />
Prabang. Open<br />
daily for breakfast,<br />
lunch and dinner.<br />
www.belmond.com<br />
Photos: Mandai Wildlife Group<br />
Photos: Gardens by the Bay/City Neon<br />
FAST TRAIN TO CHINA<br />
Opened in December 2021, the Laos-<br />
China Railway notched up an incredible<br />
milestone in March – transporting more<br />
than 10,000 passengers in a single<br />
day. This surge in passengers is due to<br />
borders opening and travel restrictions<br />
being lifted. The gleaming new highspeed<br />
railway has made travel easier<br />
between China and Laos while also<br />
cutting travel times between Laotian<br />
towns. Stretching 1,035 kilometres,<br />
it whisks travellers from Kunming to<br />
Luang Prabang in 17 hours and from<br />
Luang Prabang to Vientiane in just two<br />
hours. With demand rising, the Laos-<br />
China Railway has extended its ticketselling<br />
hours and increased the number<br />
<strong>of</strong> bogies to 12 to accommodate the<br />
growing passenger load.<br />
www.crecg.com<br />
ROCKETS AWAY!<br />
The yearly Boun Bang Fai festival lands in <strong>May</strong> to welcome<br />
the rainy season and celebrate fertility. The date differs by<br />
province but the fun levels stay the same, making this a must-<br />
see experience for visitors.<br />
Boun Bang Fai celebrations feature traditional dance<br />
performances, men parading in drag, and a procession <strong>of</strong><br />
floats. Though festivities differ from province to province, the<br />
day always ends with a bang as people gather on the outskirts<br />
<strong>of</strong> towns or villages to watch homemade rockets launch into<br />
the sky. The large explosions are the local way <strong>of</strong> saying<br />
thanks to the God <strong>of</strong> the Skies for granting rain and a good<br />
harvest. <strong>May</strong> to <strong>June</strong>; www.tourismlaos.org.<br />
Photo: Museum <strong>of</strong> Ice Cream<br />
SPOTLIGHT<br />
Night at the Zoo<br />
The Singapore Zoo is giving animal lovers a chance to cuddle up to<br />
wildlife in the metropolis with its “Glamping in the Wild” programme.<br />
Nature lovers get the opportunity to spend a night at the zoo and also<br />
hang out with several <strong>of</strong> its residents for an entire day. The getaway<br />
begins with guests helping to feed a herd <strong>of</strong> Asian elephants, before being<br />
treated to a hearty dinner themselves. Guests then get to retire for the<br />
night in cosy and comfortable domed tents with animals all around for<br />
company. The experience includes breakfast and more encounters with<br />
the zoo’s wild ambassadors. Guests interested in getting wet can opt for<br />
the River Wonders’ popular “Glamping with the Manatees” experience<br />
which is available until August this year. Various dates, from SGD1,699 per<br />
tent (sleeps four), www.mandai.com<br />
SCOOPS OF FUN<br />
Rediscover your inner child on a rainbow journey<br />
featuring a vintage diner, a unicorn playground,<br />
and the world’s largest sprinkle pool! Designed<br />
to be a safe space for human connection and<br />
learning through play, the Museum <strong>of</strong> Ice<br />
Cream is the sweetest spot in Singapore for<br />
unforgettable frosty fun! Open Thursday to<br />
Sunday, 10am-10pm (last entry 8pm),<br />
www.museum<strong>of</strong>icecream.com/singapore<br />
AVATAR COMES TO LIFE<br />
Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay has brought Pandora,<br />
the alien world <strong>of</strong> James Cameron’s sci-fi blockbuster,<br />
“Avatar: The Way <strong>of</strong> Water”, to life in its Cloud Forest.<br />
Complete with spiralling walkways and waterfalls, the<br />
immersive walkthrough gives guests an opportunity<br />
to experience mystical flora and fauna, as well as the<br />
captivating culture <strong>of</strong> the Na’vi, the alien species that<br />
calls Pandora home. Also included are encounters<br />
with creatures from the film, such as the Banshee and<br />
Viperwolf. Until <strong>June</strong> 30, 9am-9pm daily; tickets start at<br />
SGD53 per adult; www.gardensbythebay.sg<br />
72<br />
73
BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS 76 / ROUTE MAP 81<br />
75
BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS<br />
BOUTIQUE CRUNCH! BANGKOK AIRWAYS SERVES GROS<br />
MICHEL BANANA CHIPS SKY BITES<br />
<strong>Thai</strong>land’s boutique carrier<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> is now<br />
serving lip-smacking Gros<br />
Michel Banana Chips as part<br />
<strong>of</strong> its “Sky Bites” series. This<br />
healthy yet scrumptious snack<br />
is being served to all passengers<br />
on five routes: <strong>Bangkok</strong>-<br />
Maldives (roundtrip), <strong>Bangkok</strong>-<br />
Samui (roundtrip), Chiang Mai-<br />
Samui (roundtrip), Chiang Mai-<br />
Phuket and Chiang Mai-Krabi.<br />
The crispy Gros Michel<br />
(Hom Thong) banana chips are<br />
made from carefully selected<br />
bananas grown in <strong>Thai</strong>land’s<br />
Pathum Thani province. The<br />
golden bananas served in the<br />
eco-friendly packaging are<br />
deep-fried and seasoned with<br />
sea salt. Enjoy!<br />
สายการบินบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส<br />
เพั่มควัามอร่อยให้กับการเดิินท่าง<br />
บนเท่ียวบ ินกับเมน้ขบเคียวส ุดีเฮลธ์์ต้ี<br />
Sky Bites: สกายไบท์์ส เซ็็ต้ใหม่่<br />
“กลูวัยห้อมท่องท่อดีกรอบ รสดีั งเดิิม<br />
(รสเค็ม)” ท่ีรังสรรค์จากของดีีเม่อง<br />
ปีทุ่มธานี ผู้่านกระบวันการคัดีสรร<br />
ผู้ลูิต้ผู้ลูอย่างดีี มีคุณปีระโยชื่น์ต่่อ<br />
ร่างกาย อุดีมไปีดีวัยวิิต้ามินแลูะ<br />
ไฟเบอร์ มีควัามโดีดีเด่่นภิายใต้้<br />
บรรจุภััณฑ์์สีเขียวั กลูวัยห้อมท่อง<br />
ห้ั นเป็็นชิ้้นพัอดีีคำา ท่อดีแลูะปร ุงรส<br />
ดีวัยเกลืือท่ะเลู พร้้อมให้้บริการ<br />
แก่ผู้้โดียสารชั้้ นธุรกิจแลูะชั้้นปีระหยััดี<br />
ในเสนท่างบินท่ั งภิายในปีระเท่ศแลูะ<br />
ระห้วั่างปีระเท่ศ 5 เสนท่าง ได้้แก่<br />
กรุงเท่พัฯ - มัลูดีีฟส์ (ไปี-กลัับ)<br />
กรุงเท่พัฯ - สมุย (ไปี-กลัับ) เชื่ียงใหม่่<br />
- สมุย (ไปี-กลัับ) เชื่ียงใหม่่ - ภููเก็ต้<br />
แลูะเชื่ียงใหม่่ - กระบี<br />
SPECIAL UNIVERSITY FARES<br />
The new “Ufare by <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> –<br />
Temptingly Low Airfare for University<br />
Members” <strong>of</strong>fers 20% discount to<br />
university students and lecturers, with<br />
fares starting at just Bt1,180.<br />
This promotion applies to university<br />
students at all levels – undergraduate,<br />
graduate and doctoral – as well as<br />
lecturers, provided the educational<br />
institute is based in <strong>Thai</strong>land.<br />
The promotion covers all <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
<strong>Airways</strong> domestic routes. Heading North?<br />
A one-way ticket on the <strong>Bangkok</strong>-<br />
Chiang Mai route costs Bt1,180, while<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong>-Lampang one-way is priced<br />
Bt1,540 and <strong>Bangkok</strong>-Sukhothai one-way<br />
is Bt1,220. For the South, one-way<br />
flights from <strong>Bangkok</strong> to Krabi or Phuket<br />
cost Bt1,260, while a one-way ticket<br />
from <strong>Bangkok</strong> to Samui will set you<br />
back just Bt1,700.<br />
Even better, the promotion also<br />
applies to international routes.<br />
A Ufare return ticket from <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
to Phnom Penh is priced at only Bt5,630,<br />
while a return ticket from <strong>Bangkok</strong> to<br />
Siem Reap is Bt5,910. Return flights<br />
from <strong>Bangkok</strong> to Luang Prabang go for<br />
Bt6,490. This promotion only applies to<br />
return flights on international routes.<br />
To take advantage <strong>of</strong> this promotion,<br />
all passengers need to do is “Reserve,<br />
Pay and then Fly”. Reservations can be<br />
made at www.bangkokair.com/ufare and<br />
passengers are required to produce a<br />
valid student or lecturer ID card at the<br />
check-in counter. This special promotion<br />
<strong>of</strong>fers a 20% discount on Web Promotion,<br />
Web Saver and Web Freedom airfares,<br />
and the prices quoted above do not include<br />
ticketing fees. For more information, check<br />
out https://www.bangkokair.com/ufare/<br />
condition.html.<br />
Travellers are entitled to 20 kilos<br />
<strong>of</strong> baggage allowance, access to a<br />
boutique lounge or F&B corner at all<br />
airports, as well as hot food and<br />
beverages on board. They can also<br />
select their seat in advance for free.<br />
For updates and promotions, follow<br />
https://www.facebook.com/Fly<strong>Bangkok</strong>Air<br />
or Line Official Account: @flybangkokair<br />
by clicking https://bit.ly/addfriend_pgline.<br />
You can also contact the Call Centre at<br />
1771 or 02-270-6699 between 8am<br />
and 8pm.<br />
สายการบินบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส มอบสิทธ ิพิิเศษ<br />
“Ufare by <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> – บินถููกได้้ใจ...คลิิกได้้<br />
ทุุก U” สำาห้รับนิสิต้-นักศ่กษาทุุกระดัับ (ตรีี โท่ เอก)<br />
แลูะอาจารย์มห้าวิิท่ยาลััย สถึาบันอุดีมศ่กษาใน<br />
ปีระเท่ศไท่ย โดียสามารถึคลิิกรับส่วันลูดี 20%<br />
เพีียง “Click จอง - Pay จ่าย - Fly บิน” ผู้่านท่าง<br />
www.bangkokair.com/ufare เริมจองแลูะเดิินท่าง<br />
ได้้แลูวัวัันนี – 31 ธันวัาคม 2566<br />
สำาห้รับเท่ียวบิินในปีระเท่ศสามารถึท่ำาการ<br />
สำารองเท่ียวบ ินได้้ทุุกเสนท่างของบางกอกแอร์เวย ์ส<br />
อาทิิ ภิาคเหนืือ เสนท่างกรุงเท่พัฯ – เชื่ียงใหม่่ ราคา<br />
1,180 บาท่ / เท่ียวั กรุงเท่พัฯ – ลำำาปีาง ราคา<br />
1,540 บาท่ / เท่ียวั กรุงเท่พัฯ – สุโขทััย ราคา 1,180<br />
บาท่ / เท่ียวั ภิาคต้ะวัันออก ได้้แก่ เสนท่างกรุงเท่พัฯ<br />
– ต้ราดี ราคา1,220 บาท่ / เท่ี ยวั ภิาคใต้้ ได้้แก่<br />
เสนท่างกรุงเท่พัฯ – กระบี กรุงเท่พัฯ – ภููเก็ต้<br />
ราคา 1,260 บาท่ / เท่ี ยวั แลูะกรุงเท่พัฯ – สมุย<br />
ราคา 1,700 บาท่ / เท่ี ยวั<br />
เท่ียวบ ินระห้วั่างปีระเท่ศท่ีร่วัมรายการ ปีระกอบ<br />
ดีวัยเสนท่างสู่่ประเท่ศกัมพููชื่าได้้แก่ กรุงเท่พัฯ –<br />
พันมเปีญ ราคา (ไปี-กลัับ) 5,630 บาท่ กรุงเท่พัฯ<br />
– เสียมเรียบ ราคา (ไปี-กลัับ) 5,910 บาท่ แลูะ<br />
กรุงเท่พัฯ – ห้ลูวังพัระบาง ราคา (ไปี-กลัับ) 6,490<br />
บาท่ โดียโปีรโมชั่่ นต้ัวั Ufare สำาห้รับเสนท่างต่่าง<br />
ปีระเท่ศ สามารถึเลืือกการเดิินท่างแบบ ไปี-กลัับ<br />
เท่่านั น<br />
ขั นต้อนรับสิท่ธิบริการ Ufare by <strong>Bangkok</strong><br />
<strong>Airways</strong> สามารถึดีำาเนินการไดีง่าย ๆ ใน 3 สเต็็ปี<br />
เพีียง “Click จอง - Pay จ่าย - Fly บิน” ผู้่านท่าง<br />
www.bangkokair.com/ufare ซ่่งผู้้รับสิท่ธิจะต้้อง<br />
แสดีงบัต้รปีระจำาต้ัวน ักศ่กษา หรืือบัต้รปีระจำาต้ัวั<br />
อาจารย์มห้าวิิท่ยาลััยท่ียังไม่ห้มดีอายุ ณ เคาน์เต้อร์<br />
เชื่็คอินในวัันเดิินท่าง สามารถรัับส่วันลูดีค่าโดียสาร<br />
20% จากราคาบัต้รโดียสารราคาปีกติิ (Web<br />
promotion, Web saver, Web freedom) ราคาดััง<br />
กล่่าวัไม่รวัมค่าธรรมเนียมการออกบัต้รโดียสาร<br />
ท่ังนี สามารถึเขาชื่มรายลูะเอียดีเงือนไขท่างเว็็บไซ่ต้์<br />
https://www.bangkokair.com/ufare/condition.html<br />
พิิเศษ! ผู้้โดียสารของบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส ไดีรับ<br />
โห้ลูดีกระเป๋๋าสัมภิาระในนำาห้นัก 20 กิโลูกรัม/ท่่าน<br />
SCAN NOW<br />
76 77
BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS<br />
BLUE IS THE HAPPIEST COLOUR<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> recently launched a new advertising<br />
campaign using the “identity colour” concept to highlight<br />
passengers’ “happy moments” with the airline. The “Blue is<br />
the Happiest Colour” advert showcases passengers’ happy<br />
experiences, ranging from chats with the Call Centre staff<br />
and making flight reservations to relaxing in the luxury<br />
surroundings <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> boutique lounge and<br />
arriving at their destination. Presenting the “happiness”<br />
campaign is <strong>Thai</strong> actress Urassaya “Yaya” Sperbund, whose<br />
distinctive friendly, happy demeanour is a perfect fit.<br />
Check out the “Blue is the Happiest Colour” advertisement<br />
on various online platforms, including the <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong><br />
channels on YouTube and Facebook.<br />
เม่อเร็วัๆ นี สายการบินบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส เปิิดีต้ัวัห้นัง<br />
โฆษณาออนไลน์์ชืุ่ดีใหม่่ มุ่งเนนการนำากลย ุทธ์์สรางต้ลูาดี<br />
ดีวัยสีสัน (Colour Marketing) โดียจะทำำาการส่อสารผู้่าน<br />
แนวค ิดี “สีฟ้าค่อสีแห่่งควัามสุข” ท่ีนำาเอกลัักษณ์จากสี<br />
ของบางกอกแอร์เวย์์ส มาส่อสารเพั่อสรางการจดจำำาภิาพั<br />
แห่่งควัามสุขในการเดิินท่างกับสายการบินฯ ต้ังแต่่บริการ<br />
ผู้่านพน ักงานคอลูเซ็็นเต้อร์ การเลืือกจองท่ี นั ง บริการ<br />
ห้้องรับรองผู้้โดียสาร จนถึึงจุดีห้มายปีลูายท่าง โดียมี<br />
“ญาญ่า อุรัสยา” เป็็นพรีีเซ่นเต้อร์ ท่ีมีสไต้ลู์เฉพัาะตััวั<br />
มีควัามเป็็นมิต้ร การส่อสารท่ีจริงใจ สามารถึแบ่งปััน<br />
ควัามสุขให้กับทุุกคนในทุุกครังท่ี พับเจอ โดียสามารถึ<br />
รับชื่มไดีท่ี ส่อออนไลน์์ท่ั วัไปี หรืือชื่่องท่างย้ท่้บแลูะ<br />
Facebook: <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong><br />
SAMUI WELCOMES BACK CHENGDU AIRLINES<br />
March 5, <strong>2023</strong> – Samui International<br />
Airport, in collaboration with the<br />
Tourism Authority <strong>of</strong> <strong>Thai</strong>land (TAT)’s<br />
<strong>of</strong>fice in Samui as well as the Koh Samui<br />
Tourism Association, have <strong>of</strong>ficially<br />
welcomed back passengers arriving<br />
on Chengdu Airlines flights EU2807<br />
and EU2802.<br />
The Chengdu-Samui-Chengdu<br />
flights, operated by Airbus A319<br />
aircraft, was the first chartered flight<br />
from China to Koh Samui, after<br />
the pandemic.<br />
5 มีนาคม 2566 – สนามบินสมุย ร่วัมกับ<br />
การท่่องเท่ี ยวัแห่่งปีระเท่ศไท่ย สำน ักงาน<br />
เกาะสมุย แลูะสมาคมส่งเสริมการ<br />
ท่่องเท่ียวัเกาะสมุย ต้้อนรับเท่ี ยวบ ินของ<br />
สายการบินเฉิงตูู แอร์ไลน์์ (Chengdu<br />
Airlines) EU2807 / EU2802 เสนท่าง<br />
เฉิงตูู-สมุย-เฉิงตูู ให้้บริการโดียเครืองบิน<br />
แบบ Airbus319 โดียเท่ียวบ ินนี เป็็นเท่ียวบ ิน<br />
เชื่่าเห้มาลำำาเท่ียวบ ินแรกของสายการบิน<br />
ท่ีให้้บริการจากปีระเท่ศจีนมายังเกาะสมุย<br />
ห้ลูังจากท่ี หย ุดีให้้บริการไปีชื่ั วัคราวั<br />
เน่องจากวิิกฤต้โรคระบาดี โควิิดี-19<br />
ต้ังแต่่ปีี 2563<br />
78 79
BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS<br />
From left to right<br />
1. <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> flight attendant 2. Mr. Chulin Kocharoen, Vice President – Network and Product , <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> 3. Mr. Puttipong Prasarttong-Osoth,<br />
President <strong>of</strong> <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> 4. Mr. Chai Eamsiri, Chief Executive Officer, <strong>Thai</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> 5. Mrs. Chanthip Thongkanya, Vice President, Office <strong>of</strong> the President,<br />
<strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> 6. Miss Amornrat Kongsawat, Vice President <strong>of</strong> Sales and Acting Vice President <strong>of</strong> Marketing, <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> 7. <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> flight attendant<br />
BANGKOK AIRWAYS CONGRATULATES CHAI EAMSIRI,<br />
NEW CEO OF THAI AIRWAYS<br />
The management team <strong>of</strong> <strong>Bangkok</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> Public<br />
Company Limited, led by Mr. Puttipong Prasarttong-Osoth,<br />
President, third from left, presents a basket <strong>of</strong> flowers to<br />
Mr. Chai Eamsiri on being appointed the new Chief<br />
Executive Officer (CEO) <strong>of</strong> the national carrier <strong>Thai</strong> <strong>Airways</strong><br />
International Public Company Limited. The event took place at the<br />
<strong>Thai</strong> <strong>Airways</strong> International's head <strong>of</strong>fice on Vibhavadi-Rangsit Road.<br />
เม่อเร็วั ๆ นี บริษัท่ การบินกรุงเท่พั จำก ัดี (มห้าชื่น) หร ือ สายการบินบางกอก<br />
แอร์เวย์์ส นำาโดีย นายพุุฒิพังศ์ ปีราสาท่ท่องโอสถึ (ท่ี 3 จากซ้้าย) กรรมการ<br />
ผู้้อำานวัยการใหญ่่ บริษัท่ การบินกรุงเท่พั จำกััดี (มห้าชื่น) พร้้อมดีวัยคณะ<br />
ผู้้บริห้ารของสายการบินฯ เขามอบกระเชื่าดีอกไมแสดีงควัามยินดีีกับ<br />
นายชื่าย เอียมศิริ (ท่ี 4 จากซ้้าย) เน่องในโอกาสไดีรับตำำาแหน ่ง ปีระธานเจาหน ้าท่ี<br />
บริห้าร หร ือ DD บริษัท่ การบินไท่ย จำก ัดี (มห้าชื่น) คนใหม ่ ณ สำนัักงานใหญ ่<br />
บริษัท่ การบินไท่ย จำก ัดี (มห้าชื่น) ถึนนวิิภิาวัดีีรังสิต้<br />
80<br />
81
CHECKING OUT<br />
Singapore Sparkles<br />
– Sustainably<br />
The Lion City will shimmer once again as<br />
its annual light-art installation, i Light<br />
Singapore, returns this year with the theme<br />
“New Wave”. Local and foreign artists<br />
aim to dazzle and enchant visitors with<br />
glittering installations made using energysaving,<br />
environmentally friendly materials.<br />
The festival will light up locations around<br />
Marina Bay from <strong>June</strong> 2 to 25.<br />
www.supersurfkata.com<br />
Welcome to Super Surf — the largest water flow surf simulator in Phuket.<br />
The club has been welcoming wave riders since December 2022 and has<br />
something for everyone. As well as private events, Super Surf caters to<br />
singles, families and groups who want to chill with cool drinks, delicious<br />
snacks or sway to the beat <strong>of</strong> the in-house DJ.<br />
SUPER SURF KATA @SUPERSURFKATA +66 (0) 91 914 5546 SUPERSURFKATA<br />
2 Pakbang Road, Kata Beach, Tambon Karon, Muang District, Phuket, <strong>Thai</strong>land 83100<br />
Open Daily<br />
9AM-10PM<br />
82
UNWIND IN THE HEART OF<br />
CHAWENG BEACH<br />
Unwind in a hidden sanctuary at the heart <strong>of</strong> Chaweng town.<br />
Located in the middle <strong>of</strong> Chaweng, known as one <strong>of</strong> the most beautiful<br />
beaches in Koh Samui, Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa<br />
blends the tropical environment with serene relaxation to <strong>of</strong>fer<br />
a mesmerizing stay in Koh Samui.<br />
Basking in beautiful natural surroundings along<br />
with the divine view <strong>of</strong> the ocean, the resort is also only a 5-minute<br />
walk to the nearest shopping mall and a 10-minute<br />
drive to Samui International Airport.<br />
EXPLORE MORE<br />
Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa – Koh Samui<br />
90/1 Chaweng Beach, M. 2, T. Bophut, Koh Samui,<br />
Surat Thani 84320 <strong>Thai</strong>land<br />
Tel: +66 (0) 77 300 564-6<br />
Email: info@baanchawengbeachresort.com<br />
Website: www.baanchawengbeachresort.com
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