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smorgasboarder
2023
#55
SURFmagazine
hands down our happiest edition

Celebrating
48 YEARS
Celebrating
45 YEARS
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44
34
CONTENTS
#55
2023
76
94
14 news
24 competition
32 controversy
34 Across the ditch
44 shay lajoie
64 sustainability
68 surf shack
76 bali for beginners
80 Foiling
86 gear
94 surf art
smorgasboarders
Editorial | Dave Swan
dave@smorgasboarder.com.au
0401 345 201
Editorial | Amber O’Dell
amber@smorgasboarder.com.au
0420 615 107
Advertising | Simon Cross
simon@smorgasboarder.com.au
0413 698 630
Social Media | Phoebe Swan
phoebe@smorgasboarder.com.au
0459 705 404
New Zealand | Jiff Morris
jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz
0220 943 913
South Australia | Jimmy Ellis
james@smorgasboarder.com.au
0410 175 552
Design | Horse & Water Creative
mark, val, helen, taylah, sarah
mark@horseandwater.com.au
Accounts | Louise Gough
louise@smorgasboarder.com.au
smorgasboarder
2023
#55
SURFmagazine
hands down our happiest edition
our cover
Shayelle Lajoie
photo: walkandseemedia
get involved
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want to share? drop us a line on
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Photo: tommywilliams.photography

ello sunshine
Keep your face to the sunshine and you cannot see a shadow.
Helen Keller, Author

Publishing this edition has been a mixed bag. Smorgasboarder is
a passion project. It is something we love to do, myself especially.
It is a great creative outlet, plus surfing is so good for you in
so many ways from the physical to the mental and even the
spiritual. With all that said, putting this particular edition together
proved difficult initially. You see, my dad passed a few days after
Christmas and everything about the ocean constantly reminds me
of him. The memories just come flooding back.
Dad, my brother and I, along with many of my mates, spent so
many fun times out in the surf together. I have so many great
memories that I can be thankful for but at the same time, right
at the present moment, it is still so raw and makes me miss him
even more. I just have to remind myself of what dad always said
when experiencing any sort of adversity in his straight-up, matterof-fact
way, “Deal with it. Deal with it and get on with things.”
So, with that in mind, this edition celebrates positivity and the
kind of positive people that serve as a reminder to get on with
life and be thankful for all that we have, not just what we have
lost. There is no stronger role model for having a positive mindset
than a lovely lady called Shayelle Lajoie, who’s very name means
“joyful” in French.
Many may know Shay as a former contestant on Australian
Survivor. She shares with us her passion for surfing, yoga and
healthy living. Shay has a joy for life that is simply infectious and
following our recent interview/shoot with her, the entire crew that
attended returned to our office absolutely buzzing, constantly
remarking what a beautiful, down-to-earth, gentle soul she is.
Despite the many challenging times she has encountered, she
has come through each ordeal better for it, stronger than she was
before and with an even more upbeat outlook on life.
Speaking of a positive outlook, we also talk with experienced
Brazilian surfboard shaper and environmental enthusiast Mario
Ferminio. Tired of the toxic nature of surfboard production and
its negative impact on our environment, Mario has developed
a 100% natural resin made from vegetables. Remember your
mum always told you to eat your vegetables because they are
good for you, well now they’re also good for the environment and
potentially the future of the surf industry too. Wonderful stuff.
We also talk with nomadic artist and surfer Paul Tyler about life
on the road. His is a story of losing it all only to find something so
much more meaningful. Through his art he has found happiness
as well as a means to live. His travels and experiences have
enriched his life so much more than mere money in the bank. It’s
his memory bank that is now overflowing.
Then there’s Jack Field, who’s simple remedy for happiness is
to avoid the frustration and confrontation of fighting for waves at
crowded surf breaks. His trip is foiling which, as he explains it,
enables surfers to take to an endless array of uncrowded waves
along our coastlines, estuaries and lakes.
Finally, we road test a balsa beauty from Mark Riley. Who doesn’t
like getting a new surfboard? As a cheer me up, Mark Riley gifted
me the stunning balsa board I watched him craft by hand when
interviewing him in the previous edition. Mark’s boards are one of
a kind and so is he.
So, all in all, plenty of good cheer and good vibes in this edition
to keep you stoked. Shakkas to you all. Go get out there, get wet
and enjoy life, it’s not there forever so make sure to make the
most of it.
The Smorgasboarders
photo: walkandseemedia

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Ken
Swan
in memorium
Words: Dave Swan
This little piece
is dedicated to my
dad as a thank
you for all his
support through
the years from my
sporting days to my
professional career
through to the day
I told him of our
crazy plans to start
a surf magazine.
It was a huge leap
of faith away from
the safety of the
corporate world.
He always believed
in me and supported
me in the pursuit of
my dreams.
I thought the most fitting way to celebrate dad’s
life was to briefly revisit a few of his favourite
sayings.
There were many dad taught me growing up but
three in particular have been ingrained in my
psyche and have indeed steered me throughout
my life:
On the sporting field it was, “Show some
mongrel” – fully commit. Dad loved his sport
and that was passed on to my brother Mike and
I. I guess we wanted to emulate what he had
achieved, I mean there wasn’t that much to live
up to: Queensland footballer, State and National
surf lifesaving surfboard champion, Caption
Coach of the Queensland Men’s Water Polo
team and part of the Commonwealth Games
Squad. Yep, small shoes to fill.
Anyhow dad loved to say to Mike and I, and
later the grandkids, “Show some mongrel.”
Let your opposition know and feel they’re in a
contest. And this was fine when we were playing
water polo but the rule even applied to noncontact
sports. So, it was when I tried my hand
at basketball, I never saw out a full game before
being fouled out. Phoebe (my daughter) knows
something of this, the feisty little thing she is.
Another saying dad loved was, “Silence is
golden but sometimes it is yellow”
meaning simply, speak your mind and don’t
remain silent if something needs to be said.
Dad’s brothers know something of that saying.
Dad was never shy in letting people know what
he thought, that too applied to the sporting field.
The final saying he particularly loved was,
“Actions speak louder than words”. To
that end, nothing I say today will truly convey my
love for dad. I tried to show him each and every
day and I am pretty certain he knew how I felt.
There’s also another one, in fact there was a
heap of them, but it was, “If you’re going to
do a job, do it properly”. So I am going to
give it my best not to get upset and get through
this little speech, “show some mongrel” and not
be a wuss.
The truth is dad taught me so many things and
the lessons didn’t end as a kid. He kept sharing
his wisdom and knowledge with me right up
until the final few days.
sb / #55 / 12

I owe my dad a huge debt of gratitude. He meant
so much to me and so I thought I would share
some of what I said about him at our memorial
at the beginning of this year following his
passing on 28 December 2022. I love you dad.
Above all things, what he taught all of our
family was love. For family and friends, to
feel and show unconditional love for them, to
openly show affection. And speaking of love, I
just have to say how mum cared for dad, not
just throughout his whole life but over the last
12 months, is nothing short of amazing. I am in
awe of mum.
In regards to music, dad shared with us his
love of music which now lives on through me
and our family from James Brown “makes me
get down” to Gordon Lightfoot, Little Richard,
Elvis, Billy Joel, the Doobie Brothers, Bob
Segar, John Fogarty – everything from Motown
to Rock’n’Roll to Country & Western and
everything in between. Dad frequently called
me over and said, “Have you heard this?”
Indeed, Mikaela our eldest, often asks where
she got her musical talent from as she had
already concluded that neither her mum nor
dad could hold a note or play an instrument
with any kind of finesse, although I do disagree
as I play a mean recorder after a few beers.
Anyhow, perhaps dad could be credited with
giving Mikaela her rhythm.
For the ocean, dad instilled in Mike and me
a respect and love for the surf. He always
encouraged us to face our fears and tackle
them head on. So many good times we shared
out in huge seas daring each other to ride
THAT one.
For the officials, yep, Dad also taught us about
his unconditional love for hating refs, umpires
and sports selectors of all descriptions,
particularly those that umpired Collingwood
games and refereed State of Origin matches.
Most importantly, Dad always told us we could
never really imagine how much he loved our
family and all the kids. To that I can simply
reply by saying that I never think he could really
comprehend how much we loved him, despite
the fact he drove us up the wall at times.
Dad, you have left a huge void in our lives,
which is understandable because he stood
6’4” – how I wish he gave me that height.
We love you dad and are going to miss you like
you would not believe.
RIP Ken Swan, my dad.
11 August 1941 – 28 December 2022
Queensland footballer
State and National surf
lifesaving surfboard champion
Captain Coach of the Queensland
Men’s Water Polo team
part of the Commonwealth
Games Squad
13 / #55 / sb

see the wood
sb / #55 / 14

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15 / #55 / sb

ontroversy
Kook by
A term often used to describe someone who isn’t
an accomplished surfer and/or does not yet fully
understand surf etiquette. ‘Kooks’ are recognised
the faux pas they commit out in the surf.
Let’s call it for what it is, it’s a derogatory term used by tools
to demean people. I can’t help but feel that most people who
resort to this kind of stuff have some deep-seeded insecurity
they’re trying to conceal and by putting down others, they are
trying to deflect attention away from their own shortcomings.
Sure, the said person may rip, which in their own eyes
justifies them labelling other lesser surfers ‘kooks’ but what
are they hiding? Perhaps they went surfing regularly at the
expense of going to school and are not the most intelligent
human beings or perhaps one too many bongs affected their
cognitive abilities. Maybe in the interest of being ‘hard core’
they never managed to hold down a decent job, or perhaps
don’t even have one. To that end, should people yell at them
whilst they’re standing in the dole queue, “Go home, you
bloody kook. We’re sick of paying your way because you’re
an imbecile” or bark at them when waiting at a roadworks,
“Hold the STOP sign straight you bloody kook!”
Think of any other sport/leisure activity/pastime and consider
how they treat newcomers. More often than not there is
encouragement and respect for those giving it a go, even
reflection on what it was like to start out at a particular
discipline. With surfing, however, there unfortunately appears
to be a significant number who wish to deride people who are
learning to surf. Don’t get me wrong, beginners attempting to
surf in critical take-off zones need to be directed elsewhere
but not admonished, abused and even ridiculed for it. They
possibly don’t know any better, so politely help them out and
steer them in the right direction. Don’t be a knob and threaten
them for their ignorance.
Interestingly, some people are so enamoured with the word
kook and so incredibly hip they have even incorporated the
term into the name of their brand. Think of the equivalent,
imagine if someone brought out a line of surf lifesaving rescue
boards called Deceased Nippers or Aussie Rules footballs
called Dear Departed Auskickers. Maybe I am reading it all
wrong and simply don’t understand this comical expression
because I am not part of that inner circle of naturally gifted and
incredibly talented surfers.
Personally, I prefer to dispense with this never-ending quest
to be cool in pursuit of simply enjoying my time out in the surf,
by myself or with others. What I will say though is that if you’re
insecure about something, get to work on improving that
aspect of your life. In the long run you will feel far better about
yourself than by humiliating someone else. And let’s face it,
that beginner is only going to get better but if you’re stupid,
things aren’t going to improve unless you start educating
yourself. Anyhow, that’s just my thoughts on the matter and
why I hate this derogatory term but what would I know, I am
only a kook.
words: dave swan
sb / #55 / 16

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17 / #55 / sb

news
A window
into surf
We catch up with Craig Levers,
internationally acclaimed and
award-winning photographer,
former editor of New Zealand
Surfing Magazine and, most
importantly, our good mate.
words: amber o'dell
Readers who are familiar with our story on Craig in edition 46
will remember him as the legend behind Photo CPL Media
and, as you know, our favourite all-time surf hardcover book,
The South Seas.
Craig’s photos are ever popular for encapsulating the spirit
of New Zealand’s beach, surf and landscape, which hasn’t
changed since Smorgasboarder last caught up with him in
2019. As you can imagine, we were eager to talk about his
newest projects.
When asked about what he’s been up to, Craig said two
things – bloody Covid and his brand-new book, NZ Surf
Windows.
“It’s been a minute aye, it feels like I’ve spent the last few
years in home detention. The Covid years really affected my
ability to shoot around the country, and a lot of surfing events
which I’d normally cover were cancelled. But on the swing
side, I got our troopy camper looking mint as, and Warren
Hawke and I made a new surf book.
“This one varies slightly from the others in the NZ Surf series
in that Warren has tried to reign his writing in – he didn’t do a
great job of that – and really let the images feature – he did do
a great job of that.
“NZ Surf Windows is a distillation of what we learnt working
on the other books. But it has the same focus, which is to be
highly inclusive of the entire New Zealand surf community.
There’s a large historical chapter, then there’s logging, high
performance, groms, shapers, places, artists, men and
women. You could say its highly unfocussed, but Warren really
thrives on the idea of being all encompassing and exploring
our Kiwi surf culture in depth.”
In total, Photo CPL Media has published nine hardcovers that
make for some stunning editions to anyone’s coffee table.
Craig’s new book marks the fourth he has published with
Warren Hawke, South Island’s most prolific surf photographer.
Naturally, we asked about the motivation behind doing another
collaboration.
“Money… haha – I wish. Nah, while all of the NZ Surf series
books have been successful financial projects, so that’s not
the primary reason. Warren and I both feel that we are adding
to and documenting some of that Kiwi surf culture. If you
read through the four NZ Surf Books you’d definitely be quite
conversant in that history. Unlike Oz, no-one has put together
a New Zealand Surf History Book. It’s been talked about, but
it’s an intimidating and huge project.
sb / #55 / 18

“My role is publisher, so I have an over-arching view of the
project. Though I’m largely hands off with Warren, as he has
his own clear direction. This time around, he did set me quite
a few more editorial features to cover and I was the main
contributor. It was pretty busy there for a few months being a
full-time surf writer and photographer. After that I had to flick
back into publisher mode – working with the printer, managing
post-production, shipping, tax and then distribution, pre sales,
sales and then even more distribution and marketing.
“That said, Warren’s role is so full on – this is Warren’s baby,
so he is the driving force behind the book. He started work on
NZ Surf Windows two years ago and was driving around the
country shooting, creating content, finding content and then
curating all of that into a cohesive volume. Warren also sits in
with our graphic designer, Josh O’Rourke, during production.
He does a tremendous job of generating interest in the book.
He’s a PR machine.
“As a side note, we fricken caned our production and print
deadlines on NZ Surf Windows. We made every deadline,
and we were running smooth as and ahead of time. As you
know, this is unheard of in surf print. Then, we got whooped
up in shipping and lost six weeks of critical time with the ship
sitting in Hong Kong and then off the port of Auckland. Ships
are booked into ports, so if the ship misses that slot, it gets
bumped to a casual spot.
19 / #55 / sb
Photo Credit:
Craig Levers, CPL Media

“Our shipment sat in the Hauraki Gulf for a fortnight. We had
to cancel the book tour, wait, stress, then scramble to get
the books into stores prior to Christmas. Pre-Christmas sales
account for 50% of print run sales normally. So Warren and
I were stressed. But it’s sold faster than any of the other NZ
Surf books. We only have 250 left, so we’ve sold through
90% of the print run, which is probably the acid test of how
good this book is.”
Readers may remember Craig’s beautiful corner of the earth
and the seaside village he calls home, Piha. The scenic
black-sand beach on New Zealand’s North Island is praised
for its consistently amazing waves and delightful community,
which was why it was devastating for us to hear that Cyclone
Gabrielle hit the place especially hard in February.
Despite many people dealing with the uncertainty of losing
their homes, it was lovely to hear from Craig that the
community has banded together to help get everyone back
on their feet.
“Phew yeah Gabby got us good aye. There are so many
homes that families won’t be able to return to. I feel for those
families and friends both here at Piha and Muriwai, because
they are in a whirlpool of not knowing what is going to happen
and where they are going to live. I’ve got mates that have been
red stickered, that means the house is too dangerous to return
to, but they still have to pay the mortgage, rates, insurance
and now rent.
“The Piha community was largely left to its own to fare for itself
for the first week after Gabby. Local surfers like Dunc’s Clarke,
Willie and Amber Beggs, Will Bailey, Ants Piggins and a whole
bunch more just got in there with their diggers and manpower
and cleared the broken houses, roads, driveways, ditches.
Without a second thought they volunteered time and mahi to
help our neighbours. They are legends.
“Things are settling now, the roads are nailed, only residents
are allowed in and out of the west coast beach communities,
and we are actually a gated community at this moment! The
upside is we have this crazy window of just surfing with other
locals. The vibe in the water is so good, I guess ‘cos the place
is a bit broken, everyone has that shared feeling
and experience.”
No doubt Craig is going to continue chasing waves, pursuing
his passion and have lots of fun while doing so. To support our
good friend and his new book, NZ Surf Windows,
visit www.photocpl.co.nz.
"Local surfers like Dunc’s Clarke,
Willie and Amber Beggs, Will
Bailey, Ants Piggins and a whole
bunch more just got in there with
their diggers and manpower and
cleared the broken houses, roads,
driveways, ditches. Without a second
thought they volunteered time and
mahi to help our neighbours. They
are legends."
sb / #55 / 20

outerislandsurfboards.com
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We can explore once more.
#52
#53
#51
#54
NEWS
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FOR YOUR CULINARY DELIGHTS
world’s longest surf session
Aussie legend Blake Johnson smashes the
world record for the longest surf session.
At 1am on the 16th of March, the 40-year-old the former
surfing pro paddled out to Cronulla Beach in Sydney with a
goal to conquer 40 hours straight surfing while raising money
and awareness for mental health.
Dehydration, sleep deprivation and sharks were just a few of
the dangers involved in the Guinness World Record attempt,
but Blake was cheered on every step of the way by family,
friends and locals as he powered through the legendary surf
and pushed his body to its limits.
Exhausted but beaming, Blake emerged from the waves
at 7:11am on the 17th of March and told the crowd that he
was feeling “pretty cooked” after spending 30 hours and 11
minutes in the water.
He didn’t stop there though. After saying “Everyone
deserves to feel awesome, everyone should take care of
themselves”, Blake turned back towards the surf and told
the crowd, “I said I’d do 40 hours!”
The amazing human ended up catching more than 500
waves, and successfully completed the goal he set for
himself all in the name of raising money and awareness
for mental health. At the time of writing, he has raised over
$400,000 for the Chumpy Pullin Foundation and Youth
Mental Health. The cause is something close to his heart, as
this year marks 10 years since losing his father to suicide.
Blake said he conquered the surf for his father and three of
his friends who sadly lost their mental health battles.
“I push myself to the limits with my adventures to prove to
myself that I’m worthy and can get through hard times, and
that’s when my lessons are learnt.”
To show some support to the legendary Blake and his
equally legendary cause, visit worldslongestsurf.com.
Good on you Blakey!
Great Coffee + Speciality teas + Gourmet food + Fresh juices
Smoothies + Art + Awesome Vibe + Surfing stories + The floor
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21 / #55 / sb

Shaping Brews
&
crafting boards
Inspired by the foam of the sea and the rich surfing culture of the
Northern Beaches in New South Wales, the lovechild of craft beer
and surf, SurfCraft Brewing Co, have released their first beers –
The Pintail Lager and the Vee Bottom Session Ale.
Going hand-in-hand with the brewery’s motto, ‘shaping brews
and crafting boards’, the beers pay homage to the founders of the
Australian surfing industry who surely need no introduction – the
Brookvale Six.
In the 1950’s, Barry Bennett, Gordan Woods, Bill Wallace, Scott
Dillon, Greg McDonagh and Denny Keogh, also known as the
Brookvale Six, supplied the entirety of Australia with balsa wood
and foam surfboards from their home in Brookvale, where they
took turns in turning on a keg of beer every Friday.
Founder of SurfCraft Brewing Co, Nathan Gazzard, said craft beer,
surfing and the history of the Brookvale Six inspired him to launch
the craft beer brand on August 21 2022, along with cans of his
Pintail Lager and Vee Bottom Session Ale.
“These men pioneered the surfboard manufacturing industry in
Australia and helped transform how surfing was shaped and I am
thrilled to share their story so we can revere, have a beer, admire,
respect and never forget them or our craft.”
The Pintail Lager is a result of a collaboration with one of the
Brookvale Six and one of the largest surfboard manufacturers in
Australia, Bennet Surfboards. The design of the Pintail Lager is
inspired by old-school surf branding and culture, and the beer itself
is easy, crisp and sessionable with a slight unique twist, designed
in collaboration with Dad & Dave’s Brewery and the Bennett’s.
The Vee Bottom Session Ale is the next in the SurfCraft series
and is inspired by the founder of Keyo Surfboards, Denny Keogh,
who was an unheralded leader of the shortboard revolution of
the ‘60s. It was in the Keyo Factory that the game changing Vee
Bottom came to life, giving surfers the shape they needed to carve
a tighter, shorter arc on the wave and
creating a new movement.
surfcraftbrewing.com
SurfCraft is planning on launching a core
range of six beers, which will continue to
be shaped and crafted from the factories
where Australian surfing was born.
sb / #55 / 22

One of
the greats
As one of Australia’s iconic Brookvale Six, Keyo
is steeped in Australian surf history and has
always acted as the common thread between the
surf, the craft and the community.
You don’t end up as one of the founders of the
modern Australian surf industry without being one
of its pioneering brands and a major player in the
shortboard revolution.
For surf brand Keyo, it all started in the Northern
Beaches of Sydney with the legendary Denny Keogh
and his openness to innovate. In 1957, a young Denny
started shaping surfboards from a garage, and in
1959 officially opened the Keyo Surfboard factory and
retail store in Brookvale, which would soon become
Australia’s surfboard manufacturing centre.
The first surfboard shaper that was brought in to
help out Denny was none other than Midget Farrelly,
winner of the 1963 Makaha international. In fact,
Denny even shaped the board that Midget rode to
victory in the first World Surfing Championships held
at Manly Beach in 1964.
Bob McTavish also joined Keyo in 1967 where he
shaped his Vee bottoms and wide-backed nine
footers, which in part kicked off the shortboard
revolution. Bob even designed the ‘Keyo Plastic
Machine’ vee bottom models that ended up selling at
the astonishing rate of 70 per week.
During the early days, other high-profile shapers and
surfing royalty that worked with Keyo consisted of
Kevin Platt, Neil Purchase, Geoff McCoy, Col Smith,
Phil Cooper and Mickey Mac. In 1968 Nat
Young also came on board and produced
another popular model, the Tracker.
Later that year, sadly the Keyo factory
burnt to the ground but was quickly
re-opened in the premises right behind
the gutted factory.
In 1972, things were fast-changing, and
Denny acquired the Hobie Cat franchise
to begin building catamarans. This meant
that, by 1974, the production of Keyo
surfboards stopped, giving way to the high
demand of the popular Hobie Cat.
Fast-forward to the mid 90's and a young
Johnny Gill married Denny's daughter,
Vanessa, and continued the legacy of
producing Keyo boards. The iconic name
in surfboard manufacturing has thrived
through many long and competitive
years in the surf industry by consistently
embracing production technology, designing
with ingenuity and perfecting quality through
craftsmanship. To this day, the brand is still family
run and owned by Johnny and Vanessa.
Now based in Kincumber on the Central Coast of
New South Wales, Keyo creates all kinds of stylish
surfing craft and cloth on an international scale,
complete with beachy tints and down-to-earth styles.
As one of the greats, you can really tell when you
pick up a Keyo board that it has been passed down
through many talented hands and perfected over the
course of Australia’s rich surfing history.
keyointernational.com
23 / #55 / sb

news
A new
lease on
life
oceanfoil
Last time we caught up with
surfboard shaping legend Keith
Robinson, he was receiving orders
in droves for his life-changing
Oceanfoils's Gut Sliders. Now, we
explore just how special these boards
really are.
Readers may remember the 74-year-old surfer and
shaper from our last editions as the man eliminating the
heartbreak of retiring from the ocean. Based in Nambucca
Valley, Keith has spent the last couple of years innovating
the original Gut Slider – a board that you can lie on that
allows the rider to paddle into waves easily and perform
cutbacks just as you would with a regular surfboard.
Keith’s Gut Sliders have breathed new life into so many of
his customers who have had to say goodbye to traditional
surfing due to age or injury. Few have felt as joyful to be
back among the waves as 65-year-old Irma Rainford, who
is zipping through sets again thanks to her Gut Slider she
has lovingly nicknamed ‘Candy’. Irma said she used to
surf when she was in her twenties before she moved to
South Australia.
“When I came back to New South Wales I decided to get
back in the water and surf, which was a bit like riding a
bike really, but in my age it definitely became harder to
push up. I ran into Keith, and he told me about these new
boards he’s been making, so I got him to make me one
and I just love it – it’s fabulous.
“It’s such an
enjoyable way
to surf, because
when you are
lying down on
the board it
gives you a new
perspective on
the beauty of a
wave...
sb / #55 / 24

“I’ve used the board for about six weeks
now. My health has improved heaps since
I’ve been using it, because it’s just so good
for you. I never believed I’d ever be back in
the water after 40 years, because when you
get older, balancing is just that hard. But
Candy has been so wonderful – it’s made all
of my dreams come true and has given me a
new lease on life.
“It takes a special sort of board design to
give me what I need to enjoy riding waves,
and Keith’s managed to achieve that. He
made me my first board when I was 23, so
it’s a little bit special. He’s come a long way
since then.
“When I was younger, there weren’t many
female surfers, and the blokes would often
give us a hard time. But today is so different,
the people out there are really lovely and
polite, and they just want to talk to you. It’s
so nice seeing all the young girls surfing out
there and being able to surf myself.”
Irma is one in a long list of people
embracing the waves again with Oceanfoil's
Gut Sliders. Keith said the boards remain
in very high demand, even internationally,
so he is still enlisting the help of Oke
Surfboards in Victoria so he can concentrate
on the orders placed in New South Wales
and Queensland.
“It’s continuing to go crazy, so I am
grateful for their help. I still go down to Oke
Surfboards occasionally and spend a couple
of weeks to help them shape and make any
little changes to the board design.
“Surfing is why I make surfboards. It’s
always been about the surfing lifestyle from
day one. So I make sure I don’t take on any
more then I can handle, because otherwise
the quality suffers. If I try to push myself
above my comfort zone, then something is
going to go wrong.
“I spend a good 15 hours on a surfboard,
because I try to cater to any colour and
design the customer wants. I think that
makes it way more valuable than any mass
production board that can be churned out
in six hours. The process has always been
pretty personal all the way down the line.”
Since Keith’s very first board he created
for a mate of his, the design of the Gut
Sliders has continued to improve with every
passing day. In addition to an enhanced fin
shape, the boards are a lot tighter and more
manoeuvrable than they were originally.
Keith said he is continuously tweaking the
design and handcrafting it to suit the needs
of every customer.
“I always take into consideration how old
the customer is, how long they’ve been
surfing and where they surf. I put all of that
information together and make those subtle
changes as I am shaping the board because
I’ve always been a custom surfboard
shaper. I don’t like making craploads of
boards to chuck in a rack to sell. That
doesn’t ring my bell.
“I’ve surfed just about everywhere in
Australia that there’s waves, so that makes
it easy for me to customise because I know
the kind of waves they’ll be surfing. It’s
not just knowing their idiosyncrasies, its
knowing the locations they surf.
“The customisation of the boards is also
thanks to Graham Smith. He’s just retired
but is just as much a part of this as I am and
actually came up with the name Gut Slider. I
worked with him for over 20 years, and he’s
just a genius and so unbelievable with his
precision and detail. I’d want changes and
say it in the most layman way possible and
he was able to translate it into engineering
terms and pull it off perfectly.”
It’s not hard to see why Keith’s Gut Sliders
have become so popular. Not only do
the boards give people a second chance
at doing something they love, but also a
completely new surfing experience that
sounds as whimsical as it is fun. Keith said
the surfboards give a similar experience to
the oldest form of surfing there is, but with a
modern twist.
“It’s such an enjoyable way to surf, because
when you are lying down on the board it
gives you a new perspective on the beauty
of a wave. You also get to identify the
energy pockets when normally you don’t
see much of that standing up.
“When people get over the ego nonsense of
laying down on a surfboard, they realise how
much fun and lifechanging it really is. It’s so
rewarding to see that so many people’s lives
are improving because of the Gut Sliders.”
“I spend a good
15 hours on
a surfboard,
because I try
to cater to any
colour and
design the
customer wants.
I think that
makes it way
more valuable
than any mass
production
board...
25 / #55 / sb
Keith and Oceanfoil Surfboards
can be reached by phone
0434 211 779

NEWS
A sustainable
sesh
In our last edition we explored wooden surfboards and how appealing
they are – not just from the natural patterns of their timber, but also
from their materials being more environmentally friendly than their
alternatives.
Sustainably crafted boards really do make you feel good, so we
thought it would be worthwhile noting a collection of people out there
that certify and measure the environmental impacts of surfboards
being made.
The following organisations help those looking for a more sustainable,
feel-good surfing sesh and provide direct ways for surfboard shapers,
businesses and individuals to measure and reduce their carbon
footprint – which can be a very confusing process without a guiding
hand.
The ECOBOARD Project
For surfers wanting help choosing a sustainably made surfboard,
or shapers wanting a way to showcase the eco-friendliness of their
products, The ECOBOARD Project is one way to go. When a surfboard
has the verified ECOBOARD label, the board is considered by the
company to have a reduced carbon footprint, renewable or recycled
material inputs or reduced toxicity and waste during manufacturing.
Depending on qualifying materials and criteria, an ECOBOARD
certification can be either Level One or Gold Level.
ecoboard.sustainablesurf.org
Wavechanger
Based in Australia, Wavechanger commits ongoing research,
collaborations and innovation in the hopes to create a carbon-neutral
surf industry that embraces sustainable solutions. After three years of
building an environmental surf movement, the organisation has joined
forces with Surfers for Climate and now provides memberships in
addition to a new website with heaps of resources for those curious.
Recently, Wavechanger has collaborated on a new report called ‘The
Carbon Cost of Surfboards’ which is available on their website and
provides some pretty interesting facts on the environmental impact of
the surfing industry.
www.wavechanger.org
Carbonhalo
Carbonhalo is another useful Australian organisation that allows
individuals and businesses to take simple and affordable climate action
– like balancing out unavoidable emissions by planting trees, providing
marketing toolkits to spread sustainable efforts (without being
obnoxious) and giving helpful advice on living with low emissions.
The organisation’s website even offers a quick, free calculator that
estimates your business and personal carbon emissions. It’s mindboggling
how many emissions are produced from the simple act of
driving a tiny car down to the beach.
Carbonhalo even provided the data for Wavechanger’s ‘The Carbon
Cost of Surfboards’ project – so you know its number one for all those
complicated carbon calculations that are opening the eyes of so many
people and inspiring them to live and surf more sustainably.
www.carbonhalo.com
sb / #55 / 26

STUFF
PLENTY OF NEW
SURFBOARDS, SUPS, BODYBOARDS, WETSUITS,
CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES.
OPEN
7 DAYS
soft
serve
We review the Soft
Surf Helmet (SSH) by DMC Fins.
When this product arrived at our office we knew just
the man for the job, our mate Pat Quirk, aka Helmet.
Not only does he don a Gath helmet no matter the
condition, he recently took up shooting and is now
regularly seen wearing camo. Alas, we were too close
to our print deadline so there no time to post it across
the Tasman for review. We had to find a new gear
tester despite some saying they would rather sustain
a brain injury. We don’t know what they’re on about.
You merely look like a rugby player who’s got lost on
their way to the scrum.
The SSH gives good protection for those undertaking
extreme sports like big wave surfing or power foiling
(read our story a little further on). Not only that, it
keeps your head warm (shout out to our southern Oz
and Kiwi readers), protects the ears, keeps the sun off
your neck and the flip peak gives you some protection
from the sun. We’ve even insisted our sales rep Simon
dons it in the office having run into the corner of our
front door, head first, on more than one occasion. So
many uses.
Where to buy: dmcfins.com.au
Price: $99
159 ESPLANADE, PORT NOARLUNGA SOUTH, SA 5167
PH: (08) 8386 0404
surfer_Tahlia Hirst
photo_@lennylester
Specialising in all
fibreglass supplies
and accessories..
RESINS · CLOTH · BLANKS
FIN BOXES · EPOXY · FCS · FUTURE
FUSION · LEASH PUGS · REPAIR KITS
Sunshine Coast, QLD
P 07 5493 9974
E sales@acefibreglass.com.au
BE OUR
FRIEND ON
WORLD CLASS
AUSTRALIAN MADE
SURFBOARDS AT
AFFORDABLE PRICES
Custom Shortboards, Hybrid, Fishes, Mals and Logs
Factory 3/6 Kerta Rd, Kincumber NSW 2251 | m: 0415 577 085
WWW.ACEFIBREGLASS.COM.AU
WE BUY AND SELL SECOND HAND BOARDS
gear tester: pat quirke, AKA 'helmet'
angleseasurfcentre.com.au
Ph: 0352631530 @anglesea_surf_centre
111 Great Ocean Road, Anglesea VIC 3230
27 / #55 / sb

Win!
Surf is free,
and so is
this quiver.
Here at Smorgasboarder we don’t believe in
doing things by halves. The very definition of a
smorgasboarder is someone who rides all kinds of
surf craft.
So why would we give away one surfboard? Giving
away one measly surfboard goes against the grain
of smorgasboarding and everything we are, so we’re
going one better, two better in fact and giving our
readers the chance to win a quiver. That’s right,
three boards - a fish, a shortboard and a gun and it’s
all thanks to Stephen Halpin of Shapes by Steve O.
sb / #55 / 28

1.
2.
So how do you enter?
This is a game of chance. All you need to do is two
things to be in with a chance to win:
Signup to the
Smorgasboarder newsletter.
Go to our website smorgasboarder.com.au and click
on the Newsletter Sign Me Up link and enter your
email details
Go to our Smorgasboarder
Instagram page:
a. Follow our Smorgasboarder Instagram page
b. Like the WIN A QUIVER COMP post
c. Share it on your Instagram page
d. Tag Smorgasboarder on your shared post
It’s that simple.
Quiver
The boards you are in the running to win are from
Stephen’s HempTech range – super lightweight, strong
and as eco-friendly as you can get.
GHOST
RACKS
COMP
Beautiful boards require racks that don’t detract from
the presentation. You want to see the boards not what’s
supporting them and that is why Ghost Racks created their
near transparent, super strong acrylic rack system. The appeal
is undeniable and the reason why the racks have taken the
world by storm.
The good folks at Ghost Racks now make every kind of
rack imaginable from surfboard racks to skateboard racks,
corner racks, horizontal, vertical, multi-angle, free standing
and overhead options … you name it they have it. Better yet,
Ghost Racks cater for a diverse array of board shapes and fin
setups too, so your board doesn't get jeopardised. We love
them so much at Smorgasboarder we are offering up a set of
Ghost Racks for one lucky reader in every edition.
Fish: 5’10” x 22 ½ x 2 ½” fish
Shortboard: 6’0” x 19 ¼ x 2 3/8”
Gin: 7’0” x 21 x 2 ½”
how to enter
29 / #55 / sb
Things you need to know...
We’ll pick a winner on Wednesday 31st May 2023 so you
have plenty of time to enter. We will share a link in our
Smorgasboarder Instagram bio to announce the winner
along with an update to our WIN A QUIVER COMP post.
This competition is open to our wonderful Smorgasboarder
readers throughout Australia and New Zealand, and it will be
the winner’s responsibility to collect their prize from Shapes
by Steve O at Shed 30, 133 Quanda Road, Coolum, QLD.
Shapes by Steve o
Hemp Tech is a new eco-friendly board range created by
Stephen Haplin, the founder of Shapes by Steve O based
in Coolum Beach on the Sunshine Coast. As someone with
a penchant for hydrodynamics and sustainable shaping
methods, Stephen uses recycled wood, sustainably grown
timber and other eco-friendly materials wherever possible to
create his innovative selection of boards.
This is a game of chance.
Go to our Smorgasboarder
Instagram page:
a. Follow our Smorgasboarder Instagram page
b. Like the GHOST RACKS COMP post
c. Share it on your Instagram page
d. Tag Smorgasboarder and Ghost Racks on your
shared post
It’s that simple.
Things you need to know…
We’ll pick a winner on Wednesday 31st May 2023, so
you have plenty of time to enter.
We will announce the winner on our Instagram via an
update to our GHOST RACKS COMP post.
This competition is open to Smorgasboarder readers
worldwide. The prize will be your choice of either a
vertical or horizontal wall rack from the Ghost Racks
surf range. We will even post the racks to you at their
expense! This is a game of chance.

STUFF
give me a boost
Boost Fin Review
words: dave swan
As the years edge on, I undeniably get slower. My kids have
all but passed me in terms of speed. First it was sprinting and
then long distance running and next it was snowboarding…
the list goes on. The only thing I have managed to maintain the
edge over them is swimming and surf paddle power, although
it is a very tenuous and disputable grip. In short, my days
are numbered.
So, when this little product arrived at the office, I was more
than keen to not only try it out, but secretly attach it to a board
and somehow get it in the water without my kids seeing it.
There was a reason for my secrecy.
On the day in question, acting very nonchalant, I made sure
to have the fin facing the other direction as we made our way
to the beach so they could not see it. I hadn’t told them about
the Boost Fin. Amazingly, I managed to pull the feat off. The
look on their faces as I pulled away was priceless, their little
arms paddling as fast as they can, all whilst trying to figure out
how I was trouncing them and nearly out the back while they
were still battling the whitewash.
So, to answer the first question everyone has asked me since,
does it work? Yep, it definitely works. And how fast does it
go? Like I said, I left my kids in their
late teens and early twenties
behind in my wake. How
fast specifically? The Boost
Fin can reportedly reach a
maximum
speed of
17 kilometres per hour. If you consider world class elite 50m
swimmers can reach speeds of 1.655 metres per second, and
if you extrapolate that out to an hour (if it was possible to
maintain that speed for an hour, which it is not) the speed
clocked would be just shy of 6 kilometres per hour. So
basically, you’re paddling 3 times faster than Ian Thorpe.
The glassier the conditions the more effective the Boost Fin
is. In whitewash it takes a little time to get going but with that
said, you do notice it. Many people would know of those days
when your arms are tired and you have just come up from a
duck dive, the water is turbulent, and it takes a little time to
get going. Well, the Boost Fin speeds up that ‘getting going’.
It really is a paddle assist rather than a complete paddle
replacement system if that makes sense. If you just lay on
your board, you’re not really going to get moving at any great
speed but with the addition of your own strokes, you feel the
pace of your paddle pick up.
We tried it on a couple of boards from a mid-length through
to a longboard and the bigger the board, the greater effect.
The added propulsion assists with your glide. You simply turn
the power on and off via a small device resembling a watch
on your wrist.
Aside from the added paddle power you do notice it once on a
wave. On the first day of testing, the waves were quite full and
the midlength I was riding would have not only struggled to
get on the waves, it would have struggled to stay on. With the
Boost Fin, I got on the waves quite easily and stayed on, riding
the waves all the way to the beach. On the second testing
day, we choose a longboard and here you noticed its effect
even more on a wave, particularly on a
clean face. The board really did take
off and literally motored across the
face of the wave, linking up sections
usually beyond reach.
sb / #55 / 30

STUFF
OTHER SPECS
OF INTEREST:
Power adaptor: You simply plug in your fin via a
custom 100-240V wall charger and it takes about 2
hours to fully charge the battery. Once installed, you
can even charge the fin on your board.
Installation: Is super simple. You fasten a little insert
into your chosen fin system and then attach the
Boost Fin to that. The whole set up takes less than
5 minutes.
Battery: Lasts for around an 1.5 hour surf session
Weight: It’s just shy of 1kg (0.86kg) so it definitely
adds some weight but you’re not exactly going to be
putting this on your high performance shortboard.
Big wave gun, yep. Longboard, egg, mid-length and
SUP. We imagine over time the weight of the fin will
reduce with advancements in technology, which will
only add to its appeal.
Leash: There’s an additional leash to attach to
your fin to safeguard it should it fall off from being
incorrectly installed. This is available as an optional
extra accessory.
Fin adaptor: The Boost Fin has a range of adapters
to suit almost any surfboard or paddleboard. The
longboard adapter is supplied by default in the
package. However, they have adapters for pretty
much all of the fin box systems from FCS, FCS 2,
Futures, Futures (Side Fin), NSP FCS, Soft Top, Flip
Lock, Wayler, Slide-in and Stick-on Fin Box.
Motor: 800-watt
Verdict: It is going to most assist those who perhaps
are recovering from an injury such as a shoulder
reconstruction or like myself who are getting on in
their years and whose paddle power is not what it
was. It would also be beneficial to those surfing more
remote breaks that entail a kilometre or twos paddle
to get to.
Where to buy: Ben Buckler Boards has it here in
Australia so you can skip the long international wait
times and order through them for same day despatch.
benbucklerboards.com.au
Price: $749

STUFF
ROAMING
Roark’s Adventure Atlas
By Roark, Bleu Flemister (editor), Chris Burkard (photographer),
Dylan Gordon (photographer) and Jeff Johnson (photographer).
words: amber o’dell
As an unconventional photographic guidebook
about surfing, skating, riding and climbing around
unexpected destinations of the world, Roaming:
Roark’s Adventure Atlas was just destined to come
into Smorgasboarder’s peripheral vision.
Along with photography that captures the unique
beauty of several unexpected places around
the world, the book features tips, itineraries and
testimonies through the lens of surfers, climbers,
skaters and others that can’t help but seek a little bit
of danger on their holidays.
Far from the usual, oversaturated destinations talked
about in droves, Roaming: Roark’s Adventure Atlas
makes for a fascinating read by exploring the road
less travelled in 16 global locations. Cliff-jumping in
Vietnam, rock climbing in Argentina, motorcycling
in Nepal and surfing in wild places such as Iceland
and the Falkland Islands are just a few documented
experiences that make the book such a fun read.
It’s definitely something to hold onto for anyone
interested in captivating travel tales, unique itinerates
across the world and simply stunning photography.
Just be careful when reading, because we’ve heard
that you’ll end up dropping everything and packing
your bags as soon as you turn the last page.
Roark
Naturally, Roaming: Roark’s Adventure Atlas led us
to exploring its author, Roark, a modern outdoor
apparel brand based in California that explores
the lifestyle of adventuring while also tying stories
of surfing, skating and traveling to its products.
Obviously, the company was way too cool for us not
to share.
Roark was originally created in 2010 after one of its
founders, Ryan Hitzel, grew tired of the commercial
surfing and outdoor industries being boring,
formulaic and lacking in the art of storytelling. Ryan
wanted to explore the enriching moments that come
with adventuring and immersing yourself in other
cultures through retail, and so, Roark was born.
The brand itself is wrapped in a story about the
chase for Roark, a bar-brawling adventurer that
can be found in different parts of the world. His
stories are woven through every avenue of the Roark
business, from their clothing to their books, journals
and bi-annual ‘Artifacts’ magazines.
Each year the company produces two collections
inspired by the culture and climate of Roark’s everchanging
destination. The collections include pieces
of clothing, luggage, trinkets and gear – also known
as the ‘artifacts of adventure’.
Along with their aesthetically pleasing website, Roark
has fashion photography we can also appreciate,
with their products commonly being draped over
palm trees by the beach and soaked in salt water
after a surf – as all good clothing should be.
The brand certainly deserves to be commended for
its youthful and down-to-earth approach to travel,
and its simply genius idea to capture people’s
imaginations and adventurous spirit with clothing
that also acts as an empowering message to explore
the road less travelled.
au.roark.com
sb / #55 / 34

STUFF
gaining
traction
words: dave swan
It’s the first time I have tested the Versa Traction grip and what
I would have to say quite plainly is, I like it a lot.
In terms of your board stance and grip, I noticed absolutely
no difference whatsoever underfoot to wax. Paddling out with
a wetshirt was perhaps a little different to wax. I found myself
shifting a little more but nothing major and believe with a
wetsuit this would be next to nothing.
It did initially take a bit of bark of my knees because it is like
a super soft sandpaper so to speak but interestingly after I
surfed the board a few times, I didn’t have any further issues.
I do tend to grip the board with my knees when I paddle so
perhaps I eased off my ‘knee gripping’ a little or my skin just
toughened up.
The biggest difference I noticed was whilst my son was busily
waxing up his board, I was ready to go. Furthermore, slipping
it in and out of the board bag was as easy as. No fuss, no
expense and no need to scrape off old wax.
Most importantly, it keeps a board like this in absolute pristine
condition. Indeed, you would have to look very, very closely to
try and see the Versa Traction grip on this board. Over 20,000
kits sold worldwide speak volumes as to the popularity of it.
Verdict: In all honesty, a big thumbs up. I am a fan. I love
it and if I was buying a board like this, I would certainly be
getting Versa Traction grip put on it.
Cost: For a board like this you
are up for around $100
Where to buy:
balsawoodsurfboardsriley.com
35 / #55 / sb

photo: Raglan Longboards

Across the ditch
In this edition our very own Phoebe Swan does a little road tripping around the North Island
and Jase John from Queenstown in the South Island gives us a rundown on his latest trip
to Japan chasing Japow. You will see Jase scored big. To kick things off with our Across
the Ditch section, we thought we would share a little magic from Raglan and why New
Zealand is aptly named The Land of the Long Lefts.

andom
ales from
he road
raglan
words: phoebe swan
This was my first time to
the North Island, having
visited the South Island
with my family back in 2014
when I was twelve. Back
then I wasn’t as passionate
surfer as I am now. When
dad (Dave Swan) took to the
Dunedin breaks in the middle
of winter with the outside
temps around 1 degrees and
the water about 8-9 degrees,
I wasn’t having any of it,
but things have changed. I
absolutely love my surfing
now. When the opportunity
finally came to visit my best
friend Sophia (a Kiwi) who
returned home to attend uni,
and who I hadn’t seen since
the start of Covid, I was very
keen. I was confident I would
get the chance to surf during
my stay, in fact I was going to
make certain of it.
Dad always raves about
New Zealand, about how
different the North Island
is to the South Island and of
course, how good the surf is,
and how down-to-earth all
the surfboard shapers are. I
found myself eager to follow
in his footsteps and amazingly
I think I pretty much did.
Here’s a little rundown on my
recent trip.
MUST DO NO 1
I was told I must visit Roger Hall at Surfline Custom
Surfboards. I don’t know how many times dad told
me how incredible his boards are. “True works of
art”, he said and how the day he rode Hot Curls
with Roger and then drank beers until the early
hours of the morning at McLeods’s Pizza Barn &
Brewery in Ruakaka was, “one of the best days of
my life”.
Well, unfortunately Roger wasn’t there when I
visited, he was off on holidays testing his boards,
but I did manage to catch up with Reece who
does all the artwork on the boards, a talented
artist himself. Reece was just incredible, so
accommodating and happy to walk me through
the workshop. And I can conclude, dad was right,
Roger’s boards are amazing and his latest iteration
of the Hot Curl out-of-this-world. Hopefully next
time I get a chance to test one.
MUST DO NO 2
Surf the Mount, Mount Manganui that is. Thanks to
Sophia’s housemate Fran and good friend Jai I got
the opportunity to surf this place and I just have to
say how special it is. The water was so crystal clear
and we managed to get in some fun, mellow waves.
UNPLANNED QUICK TRIP
Thanks to the wonderful Fran, who’s driven me
everywhere with Sophia tied down with uni, we
made a quick dash down to Pokohino Beach on the
Coromandel Peninsula, not far from Whangamata.
It is quite possibly the most beautiful beach I have
ever been to.
like father
like daughter
MUST DO 3
Raglan, the epicentre of New Zealand’s famed long
lefts as seen in movies like The Endless Summer.
This is the ‘holy land’ and I so wanted to dip my
toe in the waters here. My first stop was Mickey
T’s (Mike Thomson) Raglan Longboards to grab a
board for the next few days.
Dad rang ahead and spoke with Mickey’s wife
Sunny. A little while later I was greeted by both
of them with the offer of a longboard and no
acceptance of payment. “You’re family” was all
Mickey replied. When I Facetimed dad later that day
I think it brought a tear to his eye – the old softy he
has become. “I haven’t seen them in 10 years and
yet that is how they welcome you. I am so lucky to
have met so many people like that during our days
with Smorgasboarder. I love them” was all he could
say again and again.
New Zealand is like that. Time and time again you
are taken aback by how friendly and welcoming
they all are. I have been told so many times by my
parents that is how Australia used to be. When and
why did we lose this side of us?
WHERE NEXT?
There were many other must dos on my list from
dad but alas I couldn’t ‘do everything’.
Hopefully I will be asked to return to
visit the other corners of the North
Island I have heard so much
about like Gisborne, Taranaki,
Wellington and of course
Northland. I will be back.

Mount
Maunganui
sophia, phoebe,
jess & fran
hot curl
Reece showing off some of
his impressive artwork on
another of Roger’s boards
Pokohino Beach
Mickey-T
& Sunny
ruakaka

Across the ditch
JAPOW
2023
words: jase john
With the weather forecast
becoming ever more
-
threatening in Te Ika-a-MAui
(North Island), the nervousness
of a successful and timely
Auckland exit to the ‘Land of
the Rising Sun’, WAs looking
more and more sketchy.
With the stories of vehicles, then houses, then people
washing away with the unprecedented rainfall across northern
Aotearoa, the delays in departure and the fact we had been
waiting over two years to rekindle our relationship with yuki in
Nippon, soon paled into insignificance. The only positive from
this natural disaster, was the anticipation of what impact these
La Nina weather patterns might have on our quest for that
bottomless Japan powder – if, or when, we did get there.
With the initial delays to our 2023 NZSHRED Japow Tour being
constantly brought into perspective as the internet delivered
us image after shocking image of this destruction, our 787
finally winged its way across the Pacific and closer to Narita
airport. Our attention soon swung to the formalities of entering
SB / #55 / 40

one of the post-Covid world’s most restrictive and regimented
countries. What started as days of delays and destruction, was
now morphing into a seamless pathway of harmonious timing
and faultless luck. As we pressed towards the mountains, even
the charming taxi driver, who met us at 11pm at the railway
station amid the ensuing blizzard, showed that unwavering
smile and feverish offering of assistance that only the Japanese
can emulate.
We dropped our bags full of Jones, Nitro and Season demo
boards, Oakley goggles, helmets and riding packs at our
ryokan, and headed straight to a quintessential smoky late-night
‘locals venue’, to meet the rest of the crew. As a bar by most
standards, with that typical Japanese chic, you retrieve your
tipple-of-choice, then pay at the bar for it to be opened, which
is an absolute stella business regime, especially considering the
size of the venue made any chance for the provision of service
to their clientele about as easy to achieve as Aabhi fitting his
huge 6’4” frame and 167cm Nitro Magnum within their four
person gondolas. Inside the bar, Nick (US) and Grant (Scotland)
were holding court and telling yarns of the last three days of
riding we’d missed. Then there, in the corner, was Steve (U.K.),
our quintessential Pom, and token ‘straight stander’ never sure
‘where he was’ or ‘where he was headed’ and always expecting
someone had it organised, but into everything just the same.
The quaintness of this first snow village, was not lost on the
newer members of our group. Nor, what it must take to carve
a life in this environment with the thin, narrow streets, steep
gradients and the constant trickle of Onsen water lapping at
your snowboard boots. And, what about the yuki? How about
that yuki! The next three days were filled with that constant
English retort from seasoned NZSHRED snow tripper, Robbie,
“Just extra-ordinary!!!”. Danny (Dunedin) was soon remembering
why he’d frequented Japan some 10 years earlier, and equally
asking himself, why he’d taken this long to return.
The terrain variety of this upper mountain proved a brilliant
playing field for the talent and experience across the group.
Lines allowing individuals their necessary measure of trees
(or not), dictated by experience or lactic acid build-up, were
plentiful. However, by day four the itch of frequenting a different
apres environment was requiring more than just a passing
scratch. With a quarry of Asahi Dry and rice triangles, we
negotiated the well-manicured highways and byways to land us
in our next village. It was a destination of greater size, however
still had streets numbering no more than fingers on our hands.
We were again blessed with four ‘local’ resorts and another three
within the region with the furthest being a mere 45 minute drive,
even on a solid snow day.
With group numbers swelling by the day, the Melbourne boys
Hugh and Imran hit the ground running. Shortly after, Ange
(Christchurch) and late trip member Rahul (Sydney) saw 2023
NZSHRED Japow Tour reach 11 crew. Despite the idiosyncrasies
of a manageable dining experience fast becoming more of a ‘fend
for yourself’ objective, the snow fall and quality did not waiver
and there was just metres of it. As the days passed, we ticked
off ski field after ski field. Our 18 days of riding saw us gather a
quarry of 9 different ski areas in three separate snow regions of
Honshu and just one lone day of no snowfall within that.
With snow conditions favourable on a daily basis, there was
abundant opportunity to move the Oakley Flight Deck, Flight
Tracker and Fall Line goggles around the group, as well as to try
their new lens variations of Prizm Sage Gold, Prizm Rose Gold
and Prizm Snow Garnet. With NZSHRED having pre-trip catered
for a number of the group members snowboard requirements,
a quarry of additional powder planks were generously passed
among the team. Of specific mention, were the revamped camber
2024 Jones Mind Expander (156cm), the historically ever-reliable
2024 Nitro Squash (159cm) and the well-received 2024 Season
Nexus (155cm). A further highlight of the demo gear was a set of
the new, revolutionary Nidecker Supermatic quick-entry bindings.
With no end to the yuki falling, our riding days were fast coming
to an end as we arrived at our third and final mountain village.
Differing from the other venues, by way of it being a purpose-built
snow destination, we experienced our largest daily snowfall of
the trip some 50 plus centimetres over the course of our riding
day. After almost three weeks on our boards, and attention now
turning to some lazy days touristing in the effervescent metropolis
of Tokyo, we bulleted south by way of one of Japan’s most
famous engineering achievements, the shinkansen.
Stomachs filled of outstanding cuisine, broad smiles from
rekindled snow interactions and bodies sufficiently tired and
worn out, each group member returned home, satisfied with
the playtime and fuelling a desire to look towards that next yuki
chapter – So, to the 2024 NZSHRED Japow Tour.
NZ SHRED
www.nzshred.co.nz

Across the ditch
Beachstreet
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hayel
balance
words: amber o’dell
photos: walkandseemedia
You will often find Shay next to
her blush longboard on the
beach, smiling at sunset colours
next to a bowl of quinoa oats and
berries.
We all work towards the bliss of a perfectly balanced
lifestyle. For Shay, the daily chase of finding the key balance
of health and happiness has never stopped, and she
comes closer to reaching it every day. As a lover of life,
health and the surf, she carries with her a buoyant spirit that
is contagious enough to lighten any moment, which is why
we humble Smorgasboarders were so lucky to have a surf
and a chat with her.
Many may recognise Shay and her bright smile from
Australian Survivor’s 2022 season, Blood Vs. Water, where
her fitness and inner strength earned her runner-up in what
was considered the most ruthless season to date.
As a surfer, yoga instructor, biomedical student, dancer and
organiser of retreats, Shay’s lifestyle is anything but bland.
Constantly chasing health and happiness, her enthusiasm
has taken her across the world to her current home in the
Sunshine Coast. Here, her lifestyle is so full it’s a wonder
how she fuels her mind and body to be so physically and
mentally active – surely there isn’t that many hours in a day.
Shay proved to us there actually is if you put your
mind to it, and said her daily routine is usually filled
with study, yoga, running, work, surfing and meetings
from sunrise to sunset.
“I’ll usually do a lot of my work from uni, so I try to split
my day up. I’ll surf in the morning, go to uni, have two
hours in the lab and then I’ll do two hours of personal
business for my retreats or whatever else. I might go
for a run, get back to work and then maybe go for a
sunset swim or walk. Sunsets on the beach are such
a nice way to relax and get time to yourself. I just sit,
read or play Wordle.”
Shay’s love of a healthy life and the ocean is
canvassed all over her body in the form of tattoos,
with a manta ray gliding over her shin, a palm tree on
her hand, a whale tail on her forearm and the amusing
addition of ‘eat your veggies’ on her other forearm.
She also has ‘salty’ tattooed on her thigh, which she
got after she was inspired by the salt left on her skin
after going for a surf.
For Shay, surfing combines her love of fitness with
her love of meeting different communities and people,
even when she is travelling. She understands the best
way to meet someone is when you are both doing
what you love, and as a self-proclaimed ‘goofy and
fun’ surfer, said she has never been the one to take it
very seriously.

le
Lajoie

SHAYELLE LAJOIE
SUNSHINE COAST
SB / #55 / 46

“Surfing it’s
the perfect
crossroads
of all things
that make
life good &
healthy”
47 / #55 / SB

“Things constantly go wrong, and it just shows that
you’ve got to adapt, be ready for anything and be
ready to laugh. I feel sorry for people trying so hard,
missing waves and getting angry, because if you aren’t
having fun, why are you out here? Have a laugh!”
SB / #55 / 48

Shay’s approach to life is best
reflected in her surname, Lajoie
– a French word meaning ‘joy’,
and a common nickname for a
happy, cheerful person.
“I love surfing because it’s the perfect intersection
of exercising and meeting people. It’s getting your
heart rate up, it’s getting out and moving, it’s the
social life and the mental relief and it’s seeing
sunrises, sunsets, rainbows, dolphins and turtles.
It’s the perfect crossroads of all things that make
life good and healthy.
“I think for me, surfing is like forced meditation.
When you duck dive the ocean has a silent roar
that has the most calming feeling to it. You’re just
taken away from the chaos of everyday life.
“It’s also such a challenge and really pushes my
ego to the side because you can’t expect to be
good at everything or predict how the waves are
going to go. Mother nature just throws a gigantic
set at you when you don’t expect it. I love that.
“Things constantly go wrong, and it just shows
that you’ve got to adapt, be ready for anything and
be ready to laugh. I feel sorry for people trying so
hard, missing waves and getting angry, because if
you aren’t having fun, why are you out here? Have
a laugh!”
After seeing her quiver of boards, you’d think Shay
hand-picked them for their harmonised pink and
cream colours. Actually, she said her surfboards
make up an aesthetic little colour pallet by
complete coincidence and were collected across
her life as various gifts from photoshoots and
friends.
“Currently, my quiver is my 6’8 single fin, 9’2 mal,
5’6 fish, 5’7 shortboard and then my two other
longboards. I’ve got a little collection.
“I learnt on a fish and I loved that. As soon as I
transitioned to a shortboard, I spent like ten years
getting really excited and learning how to turn,
which took so freaking long.
“I’m definitely a shortboarder at heart but having
gotten a longboard in the last year, I’ve loved trying
silly things and it’s been fun to do some party
tricks. It’s nice to have a move.”
The move Shay is referring to is her wicked surfing
handstand, which had us all cheering on the
shores of Cotton Tree and wondering how much
balance, strength and concentration is needed to
learn such a thing – and if we would ever have a
chance at doing it ourselves (not likely).
“I was in this photoshoot with a longboard down in
Byron and the waves were really big. They made
me come into the whitewash because I was too
scared to go out with the big waves. It was too
boring to just get up on whitewash and stand
there, so I kind of threw my arms down and just
started doing it, and it brought me so much joy.
Now I can probably surf better on my hands then I
can on my feet.
49 / #55 / SB

SB / #55 / 50

“When I first moved up here, I pretty much only surfed
Mudjimba and Red Gate. I surfed there pretty much every
morning on a shortboard. Now, I surf from Cotton Tree to
Alexandra Headland, and it’s just beautiful.”
Shay said her love of surfing truly came to fruition when she
was 17, after her and a bunch of her dancing friends decided
in the classic Aussie teenage spirit to skip school, grab some
Macca’s and go down to the beach.
“We pulled into one of my friend’s driveways to get some
boogie boards and towels, but when she opened her garage,
there was like 20 surfboards and all of this surf equipment.
“Next thing you know, we are putting surfboards on top of
my car. I didn’t have roof racks, so they were piled wax-down
on my Mitsubishi Lancer – it was a terrible mess. We just took
some rope, put it over the roof, looped it into the car and shut
the doors. My friends had to hold the ropes tight in the back
seat – it was very safe as you can see.
“We drove them down to the water. I can’t even remember
if we had leg ropes, but we paddled out in our dancing
leotards and just caught whitewash – we didn’t even realise
surfing was meant to be hard. We popped up without even
practicing and it just kind of happened. I was on a San Juan,
which was like an original board from the 70’s or something,
and I didn’t even know it was.”
Shay and her friends continued to paddle out a few times
at sunrise and sunset every week, to the point where they
skipped school for almost the whole year of 11 and 12.
Shay’s natural tendency to get swept into the limelight and
entangled in tricky situations had already started when she
was young and growing up in Cronulla on the southern
outskirts of Sydney.
“When I started surfing, my parents were like, ‘what is this
foreign sport?’ You’d think a Cronulla family would surf, but
my brother was into soccer, my dad was into golf, my mum
was a jazzercize teacher and I was a ballerina. So for me to
be on a skateboard or a surfboard was very naughty.
“My ballet teacher always made examples of why ballerinas
should only do ballet. So I kind of stopped going. I actually
took my ballet a lot less seriously because I realised I couldn’t
do all the sports I wanted to. I started meeting some really
cool people surfing, so I just wanted to stick with that. It was
nice.”
Despite all sorts of predicaments seeming to gravitate
towards Shay, no matter what is thrown her way, she always
manages to overcome it. We aren’t just saying that either.
Many of Shay’s stories have so many unpredictable plot
twists and bizarre coincidences that we struggled to keep
our jaws from hanging open and our hands from covering our
faces while listening to them.
For example, her passion for being a yoga teacher flourished
when she was 23 after she met someone on her trip to
Thailand. Shay said their relationship was supposed to be a
casual holiday fling, but by the end of her trip they just didn’t
want to part.
“After coming back to Australia I started flying over a couple
of times a year and we kept coming up with these business
ideas so we could stay together. One day he called me and
said he’s going to open up a yoga school, and he wanted me
to run it with him. I loved yoga, and I’d already done 20 years
of ballet, but I didn’t know how to teach it. So he flew me
over to Bali and I did my yoga teacher training there. I learnt
so much – it really changed my life.
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ife is all fun
“I mean, at times life can be terrifying,
but when you look back you realise how
insane, hilarious and weird it all was.
That’s what you’ve got to look forward
to. People say they don’t want to get old
and turn thirty, but trust me, life gets
good once it happens.”
SB / #55 / 52

“When I came back to Thailand, he wasn’t there, so
I ran around advertising, ordering around builders,
painting walls and opening the yoga school. I started
teaching and the business took off, it was so busy
every day.”
It was here Shay found one of her greatest
motivator’s – helping people do, be and achieve the
best they can through yoga and wellness. While she
did discover her love and talent for being a yoga
teacher in Thailand, her hopeful trip turned sour
when she fell victim to an incredibly unfair series of
events that landed her in danger. Shay was able to
escape back to Australia with the help of her friends,
and said the second the plane took off on her way
home, she was overcome with emotion and relief.
“I was sitting at home in Cronulla for about a month
after that. I didn’t surf, I didn’t leave the house, I
didn’t cook – I did nothing. So much had happened,
and I just convinced myself that I was okay and put
it on the backburner, because I didn’t want to think
about it. Then, my mum got me one of those adult
colouring books, and that was how I meditated by
way out of feeling stuck.”
The universe seems to weave some pretty difficult
situations for Shay – without realising she has the
physical and mental strength to take them on headfirst
and come out the other side with a bright smile
on her face. Her many adventures would make for a
gripping book, or maybe even an inspirational Netflix
series. Shay assured us that she had considered it
before – after all, she was almost cast in one of the
Matrix movies as a little girl.
As someone who thrives on adventure and positivity,
it was no surprise when Shay said despite all of the
rollercoasters she has been on, she strongly believes
life is all fun.
“I mean, at times life can be terrifying, but when you
look back you realise how insane, hilarious and weird
it all was. That’s what you’ve got to look forward to.
People say they don’t want to get old and turn thirty,
but trust me, life gets good once it happens.
53 / #55 / SB

“My experiences have taught me a lot about
relationships. There was this guy recently, and I
think the whole time I secretly knew that he was
maybe still in love with his ex. He was just giving me
breadcrumbs and I was chasing them, but I ended
up learning to actually respect myself a lot more, not
to be someone’s second choice and all of these hard
lessons that I’ve been ignoring my whole life.”
After journeying across the world and living in Canada,
Shay has since followed her whims to the Sunshine
Coast. While she originally visited to help her parents
renovate a house they bought, she said she stayed
after something awakened inside her – a fascination
for science.
“At this point, I sort of knew I wanted to study
something in nutrition, but then I started going out with
someone who was doing biomed and that changed.
We went out for a date and a surf, but the waves
sucked, so we ended up on the beach talking about
science for seven hours – we got so sunburnt.
“He signed me up to a bridging course where I got a
99 in chemistry and a 98 in biology, so my chemistry
teacher pulled me aside and told me to consider doing
biomed at the University of the Sunshine Coast – and
so I did. Now I live here and call this place home, and
it’s amazing. Making friends was really hard at first, but
that’s what’s so good about dancing and surfing – I
made friends through that.”
Like so many miraculous things in her life, Shay said
her name turned out to be prophetic as she took
an interest in biomedical science and followed her
passion into nutrition and genetics.
“My dad is from Mauritius, so my name is French.
My mum wanted Shay, and my dad wanted Elle, so
they stuck it together to become Shayelle. Then, like
a decade later, it turned up in a baby name book and
means ‘mathematical scientific ingenious one’ which
is ironic because both my grandparents have PhD’s in
science.
Like so many miraculous things in her
life, Shay said her name turned out to
be prophetic as she took an interest in
biomedical science and followed her
passion into nutrition and genetics.
SB / #55 / 54

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1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC
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from sunrise
SB / #55 / 56

“Every decision you make, even the first thing you
do in the morning, changes your genetic expression.
I know it sounds hectic when you hear it, but then
you realise that you can actually make a positive
impact on your genes with just the little choices.”
57 / #55 / SBto
sunset

“One of the biggest reasons I went to uni was because
I watched a lot of family go through heart disease,
dementia and Alzheimer’s. All of those things as a
teenager really frightened me, because I understood at
a pretty young age how genetics work. I knew that, if
I had to watch my grandparents go through that, then
I’d have to watch my parents and then my brother and
then myself. It was always in the back of my mind that
eating healthy, exercising and sleep were important.
“Now I am loving biomed. My electives are all foodbased,
so I am doing nutritional biochemistry. I realised
that I could be potentially capable of doing a PhD in
nutrigenomics, so the effect that our food and body has
on the expression of genes. Doing nutrigenomics would
be a lot of research, but that’s what every PhD is.
“I guess for me, I would probably focus on brain health
and what sort of things an average person would
do if they had the gene for Alzheimer’s and wanted
to prevent the expression of that gene. It’s usually
sleeping between a certain number of hours and eating
a certain array of vegetables.
“Every decision you make, even the first thing you do in
the morning, changes your genetic expression. I know
it sounds hectic when you hear it, but then you realise
that you can actually make a positive impact on your
genes with just the little choices.”
Listening to Shay talk about nutrition and people’s
wellbeing with a spark in her eyes is enough to see
that she has found one of her true callings. With all of
her passion and knowledge, it was only natural for us
to ask what on earth she fuels her body with to stay
so fit. What could possibly be the key ingredient in the
life of someone so active and intelligent in the area of
nutrition? At first, Shay just said one thing – quinoa
oats.
“That’s it! No but for real I would say my diet is 95%
plant-based foods with a bit of fish and oysters. I have
lots of quinoa, grains, seeds, nuts and like a ridiculous
number of veggies. I sort of steer away from the word
vegan because it comes with extra connotations. I’m
not afraid to eat anything if someone offers me a bit,
but I won’t order or buy it.
“My body feels so much more efficient now in my
thirties then it did in my twenties. I think it’s because
I was just eating whatever I wanted and was quite
uneducated in terms of refined sugar and saturated fat.
“I am actually writing an eBook at the moment on
refined sugar, and how we are all so addicted without
even knowing it. What it does to our moods has such a
ripple-on effect to your microbiome and your long-term
health and genes. I get super into this stuff.
“Some people say that if they knew all of this
information about nutrition it would be causing them
more stress about every eating decision, but I don’t feel
that way because I’ve chosen a life where I know I can
have a treat after 16 days of lentils, so I feel even better
eating it.”
It was during her time studying, surfing, working and
living a busy life in the Sunshine Coast when she got
the call to spend almost 50 days in the Australian
outback on the ninth season of Australian Survivor – as
if her life wasn’t vibrant enough already.
Shay said her journey with the show actually began
about six years ago, when she auditioned previously
and got through to the final round.
“They gave me a call and said I’d made it in, but I
was actually in Ecuador running one of my retreats.
I obviously couldn’t do it, and at the time I was
distraught because the timing just wasn’t right.
“Then, years later I get an email from the producers of
Survivor saying they hadn’t found the right dynamic yet
for the 2022 season and they wanted me to audition
just a month before the game started. Because it was
Blood Vs. Water, I called my family to find someone
to go with and I ended up choosing my partner at the
time, Ben.
“We zoom called the producers together and it was
just an organic conversation. They were amazed at the
difference between us, Ben is a huge human, like 6’5,
and I’m like 5’3. The next day they said we were on the
show, so we needed to sort our lives out quickly and
do all of these tests – fitness, health, psyche and just
every test imaginable. They took so much blood – I had
like no blood.
“Originally, we weren’t prepared at all. We had never
watched an episode of Survivor. We at least tried to
watch a whole season beforehand, but Ben kind of
wanted to enter it as is. The funniest and most ironic
thing was that we had this little argument one day
because I was trying to make a fire in the back yard to
practice for the fire challenge in the show, and he was
getting frustrated with me and thought I was taking it
way too seriously. Little did we know he ends up in a
fire challenge and he left the game because of it.”
From impressive shelter building to dodgy challenges
to the length of time it takes to cook rice and
beans, Shay’s personal experiences on Survivor are
fascinating. Hearing her stories made it abundantly
clear how strong, resourceful and genuine she had
to be to make it to the end of the game as a runnerup
– especially with how strangely cut-throat the
season was. Shay said while it was an overall incredible
experience, the biggest negative during the game was
the bullying.
“I’m not really afraid to say it anymore because I used
to think I should be more positive about it. But in all
honesty, it was a lot. There was a really rare dynamic in
the game, and so many people from so many different
seasons have told me it wasn’t normal. If you weren’t
in a clique you were just an outcast, and it was actually
worse than what I experienced in school.

Shay has a down-to-earth approach to life and
everything in it, so naturally we had to ask her where
she draws her courage from. Shay said she doesn’t
think she felt truly confident until she was in her
mid-twenties, when she learnt to embrace the wild
and lovable sides of herself.
59 / #55 / SB

ll that matter
“I want to live with minimal regrets. The
core of what I do is constantly seeking
joy. I don’t want to ever have a day where
nothing really cool happened.”
SB / #55 / 60

s
“After being voted off and going to purgatory and then making it
back into the game, it was like walking into a group of people that
outwardly hated you. I got bullied for eating too much. I had the
same serving size as the guys, but they always said I was a small
girl, so I have to eat less. I would also wake up sometimes and hear
them whispering about me. It got to the point where the producers
had to step in and talk to them about it.
“The positives were amazing though. The whole experience is like
being in another world because you don’t have phones, you only
have nature. Every night you are falling asleep under the stars and
it’s beautiful. I did a lot of meditating and yoga, and it still taught
me how important it is to have resilience, because if I didn’t I would
have walked out of there a lot earlier.”
As someone who holds themselves so naturally and with
confidence, it was no surprise that Shay was able to power through
the relentless social nonsense and come out of the show with a
bright smile on her face – just like she always does.
Shay has a down-to-earth approach to life and everything in it, so
naturally we had to ask her where she draws her courage from.
Shay said she doesn’t think she felt truly confident until she was in
her mid-twenties, when she learnt to embrace the wild and lovable
sides of herself.
“That was when I realised that over the years of weird coincidences
and things going wrong and things going right – you can’t control
anything. So if you just let go, be yourself and enjoy being yourself,
then you’re never going to look back and regret that you were trying
to be someone else, or that you were timid or held back.
“If I’m feeling sad one day, I’ll cry in public. If I’m feeling ecstatic, I’ll
wave and smile at people in public. Just embrace yourself. Because
my biggest fear is being like 80 and looking back at photos of me in
my twenties and wishing I lived life more.
61 / #55 / SB

Just embrace yourself
“I want to live with minimal regrets. The core of what
I do is constantly seeking joy. I don’t want to ever
have a day where nothing really cool happened.”
In a perfect role that combines all of her passions,
Shay channelled her love and knowledge of the
inner and outer self into organising mindfulness
retreats. She is currently the co-owner of Santé, a
retreat business where she teaches surfing, yoga,
nutrition and health in places like the Sunshine
Coast hinterland. For those interested, Shay said
she has four retreats coming up and is currently
planning on running one in New Caledonia.
“Another thing we are doing is a retreat in the
camping grounds of Noosa North Shore, which
we haven’t done before. This New Year’s I had
a pretty rough time, as it was my first time being
single for 15 years or something like that. I really
didn’t want to drink, I just wanted to be under the
stars camping and go surfing the next morning, so I
thought to build a retreat around that. We are going
to be taking bookings really soon with glamping and
camping options, which is really exciting.
“I am also about to launch a yoga training course,
Shakes Yoga, with my yoga crew that I like. The
teacher I look up to is basically my guru, and he
wanted me to jump on board because of my level
of teaching and how obsessed I am with anatomy. I
think I’ve had over 50 people that are keen.
“I just released an eBook as well which is actually in
three parts. One chapter is based on mindfulness,
and it’s all about the stuff I learnt in my twenties.
The other chapters include about 65-plant based
recipes and some workout routines.”
In addition to studying and running her retreats,
Shay also takes care of her other prosperous
businesses and travels wherever life takes her while
doing so. As someone who lives in the moment,
she is just enjoying chasing waves, eating veggies
and getting excited about the many things she
occupies her days with.
After a sunrise surf session and a coffee, Shay left
us with the warming feeling that, perfectly balanced
lifestyle or not, life is there to be enjoyed.
“I’m kind of living up to everything I wanted.
Everything so far in my life has fallen into place.
So long as I’m enjoying life and still getting to surf,
dance and do the fun things, that’s all that matters.”
she said.
SB / #55 / 62

Beau Gunn
Man.
Legend.
Manlegend.
beaugunn.com.au
Coming soon.
Or perhaps he’s here already.
Or is he?
63 / #55 / SB

The voice
of resin
With all these debates on polyester vs epoxy
resin, it was only a matter of time before
someone came up with a newer, more sustainable
way to laminate surfboards: vegetables.
words amber o’dell
SB /#55 #51 / 64

As a sport and
lifestyle, surfing
is as eco-friendly
as you can get,
and disturbs
little of the
environment but
the footprints
you leave behind
on the sand.
As we all know, polyester resin paired with PU
foam and epoxy resin paired with EPS foam
are the long-time standard materials used by
the majority of the industry. While both resins
are favoured for their performance-based
advantages, they are incredibly toxic and leave
behind one hefty carbon footprint when used.
While there are many manufacturers that have
increased the percentage of biological materials
in their resin, the question still remains if it’s
possible to create a natural, well-performing
resin in the surfboard manufacturing process
without using any synthetic materials.
Enter experienced Brazilian shaper, Mario
Ferminio, who has managed to create a 100%
natural and biodegradable vegetable-based
resin that can be used to laminate surfboards.
Mario said his journey in surfboard shaping
started in 1985, when he started crafting PU
boards and then travelled to France to learn how
to build epoxy boards from the best in the world.
“Upon returning to Brazil I lived in Guarujá, São
Paulo, because at the time it was the best surf
city in Brazil. While I was there, I surfed and
worked with some amazing professional surfers.
I can say between 1989 and 2012 I made more
than 10,000 surfboards with epoxy.
However, where surfing can sometimes suck
for sustainability is not in the act of carving
waves, but in the manufacturing of surfboards.
While we have previously covered how the
industry is making huge leaps in becoming
more environmentally conscious, it’s still hard
to avoid producing a lot of carbon emissions in
the surfboard shaping process when some of its
key components are hazardous chemicals like
styrene and volatile organic compounds (VOC’s).
65 / #55 / SB

“We all know surfing is
wonderful, it’s a lifestyle for many
people, but it needs to evolve a lot
in its environmental awareness.
SB / #55 / 66

“I am happy to
know the first
surfboard in the
world made with
100% vegetable
resin was made
with my hands.
Surfing is life, and
our future will
depend a lot on
taking actions like
this,” he said.
“In 2005 I decided to build a factory in my home
town of Santa Catarina, where we really made
an effort to put an end to surfboard wastage
and developed an environmentally-sound
manufacturing process.
“Two years later I decided to make an ecological
manifesto during the world surfing championship
in Hossegor, France. There, I witnessed a surfing
market that was totally detached from my purpose
and values, so I stopped making epoxy surfboards.
That is when I invented a recycling process with
wooden boards, and I managed to get a green
patent.
“In 2017, I got a call from a person that was in the
process of developing a more eco-friendly resin,
so I bought some of that to apply to my wooden
boards, and that’s when I saw an opportunity to
create a completely natural resin.”
Laminating a board naturally is not an easy task, as
every ingredient is going to affect the resin’s drying
speed, strength, clarity, hardness and weather
resistance. For three years Mario experimented
with all sorts of natural materials until he created
the perfect mixture with castor beans.
Mario said for every board he’s made he has
strived to understand how to work with the
materials, so for the vegetable resin it was no
different.
“So many years were dedicated to finding the
answers to the problems that the vegetable resin
presented to me until I finally validated it for the
market.”
“The resin makes the boards light and strong – and
the amazing thing is that it performs in water just
like a PU board but uses EPS foam.
“I would love other board shapers to have access
to the vegetable resin. In relation to expanding, I
think it would be perfect to start in the country of
surf – Australia. I am open to the idea of starting a
lamination company there and later expand to other
countries.”
Mario said while concocting his unique resin, he
reached out to Entropy Resins, a company that
supplies bio-based epoxy for surfboards.
“From talking to them I discovered that they do use
a lot of clean energy and natural materials in their
product. For epoxy especially, it’s a feat to make it
that environmentally conscious. However, making
epoxy still leaves a lot of emissions no matter what,
which is why I wanted to focus on a new type of
resin that produced little to no carbon emissions.
“Right now, the biggest hurdle I have found with my
resin is that, to cure the oil completely, it needs a
few months. It’s like making wine. At the moment
the resin cannot be used on white boards either,
only colour, because it has little UV protection.”
Mario is in the process of launching a new series
of boards laminated with his vegetable resin.
In his spare time, he uses the leftover resin to
create earrings from dried leaves in an attempt to
showcase that synthetic materials are not needed
to create beautiful products.
Mario said he realises that professional surfers are
the most influential opinions of the industry, and so
what they think and use – the market accepts.
“It’s with the help of professional surfers
that we can change the overuse of
toxic resins and begin to use more
ecological and sustainable methods
of laminating boards.
“We all know surfing is wonderful,
it’s a lifestyle for many people,
but it needs to evolve a lot in its
environmental awareness.
“I am happy to know the first
surfboard in the world made
with 100% vegetable resin
was made with my hands.
Surfing is life, and our future
will depend a lot on taking
actions like this,” he said.
folhabyferminio
67 / #55 / SB

elax, reset,
release, repeat
Those who read
edition 51 would
know we were pretty
enamoured with a offgrid
cabin operation
called Unyoked
which we discovered
while interviewing
photographer
Stephen Liew.
So impressed were we that we have
decided to embark on a special editorial
series whereby we will showcase over
several editions some of the bespoke
getaways in their range, the first being
Whetū in Raglan, New Zealand. After all,
aside from publishing Smorgasboarder, we
run a creative agency called Horse & Water
and writing retreats are always in favour.
Escapes like these certainly free up the
creative juices, and it’s kind of handy some
of them are coincidentally near surf breaks.
featured retreat: Whetū, Raglan
photos supplied courtsey of Unyoked: @jonny_goose

...Our unique locations give easy access to the
wild, so that getting lost in nature becomes as
natural as getting stuck on your feed.”

Whetū, Raglan
Notes from the field
Derived from the Indigenous peoples Te reo Maori
name for the stars which guided and navigated the
people of Tainui Waka for centuries, Whetū can be
seen on clear nights from Whaingaroa Te Moana
all the way to Karioi Te Maunga. A symbol of the
relationship between the people and the land, Whetū
has always been part of our journey, wherever we are.

“An ancient remedy for
modern times. We provide
9-5ers, creatives and
dreamers a place to define
yourselves beyond your
desks...
Aside from the elegant simplicity of these retreats,
the ethos behind them is equally as engaging.
Some text from their website encapsulates it
all, “An ancient remedy for modern times. We
provide 9-5ers, creatives and dreamers a place
to define yourselves beyond your desks. Our
unique locations give easy access to the wild, so
that getting lost in nature becomes as natural as
getting stuck on your feed.”
Company spokesman Julian Rapattoni, Head of
Global Operations, expanded on that statement
explaining Unyoked’s core purpose. “Nowadays
we all lead increasingly busy lives. We get so
caught up in the day-to-day of juggling work
commitments that we lose perspective. We forget
to live. It’s commonly known that modern day
living comes hand-in hand with mental fatigue and
low productivity. Numerous scientific studies have
shown spending an extended period of time in
nature is the perfect antidote.
“Unyoked was created to help us all understand
how nature can make us better and allow us to
weave it into our lives easily, and regularly. The
cabins came second; nature was first. Everything
we do is to help our people kickstart a nature
habit, one built on understanding how- and whenit
can help them personally.”
To that end, Unyoked have curated a super select
range of high-quality nature experiences to help
people relax, rest and release. So selective are
they that they have reportedly said no to many
more locations than they have said yes to.
Julian elaborated on this statement.
“We search until the most unique and unyoked
landscapes have been found. We want our guests
to truly relax. Most of us have a busy, noisy,
always-on life in the city. So, we aim to get people
out into nature where there’s no interruptions. We
want to provide an environment where our guests
can reset their expectations and get some regular
perspective thanks to the vastness of the outdoors
and ‘release’ by way of giving them a change of
scenery. Nobody ever comes up with great ideas
staring at the same four walls. So, we get them
out there, so they can be inspired and finally
get the space to start that big creative project,
whether it’s work, relationship or personal.”
Wise words indeed, in fact the Unyoked website
reaffirms the science behind this approach.
71 / #55 / SB

Nature helps
you feel better.
Cortisol is another name for a stress hormone, otherwise
known as the thing that peaks in busy people around 3pm
every Wednesday. Recent studies have shown that even
one night in nature - as opposed to the median strip near
your office that someone called a park - can significantly
decrease your cortisol levels. Getting out into greenery
regularly not only slows down overactive minds and
replaces circulated office aircon with crisp 02, but it can
genuinely affect your mood.
Nature
recentres you.
If you want to get an instant understanding of how small
our issues are in the grand scheme of things, there’s
nothing quite like throwing your arms around a tree that’s
been alive for hundreds of years. Out in the middle of
nowhere, distraction-free with only rolling hills, clear night
sky and a few birds for company, the truth about what
really matters naturally presents itself.
Nature
stimulates
creativity.
The uninterrupted vastness of wild green spaces, away
from screens and schedules is the perfect place to bend
your grey matter, follow strange new thoughts down
rabbit holes and daydream productively. Whether it’s
work-related or simply the chance to think differently
about life or love, nature is your new creative happy place.

Whetū is described as being a perfect way to
“find the relief you’re searching for”. 2 hours
south of Auckland in the hills overlooking
Manu Bay in Raglan, it is awe-inspiring.
This retreat, if only for a weekend, is sure to
relieve those stress headaches from work.
As you weave your way uphill to your cabin
you will feel your blood pressure drop as
you gaze out at the expanse of Manu Bay
extending all the way to the Tasman Sea.
Feeling bogged down by
the same old routine? Head
uphill to the epic expanse
of Whetū, spectacularly
positioned with sweeping
views of the sea.
$269 weeknights
$299 weekends
Price per night in NZD. Min 2 nights Fri/Sat.
Check in 3pm. Late check out at 11am.
Because, sleep-ins.
What’s Provided?
Bedding
Gas Stove
Fan
Towels
Bar Fridge
Picnic Table
Solar Power
Fire Pit
Heater
And, TP
Composting Toilet
Cooking Utensils
Pots and Pans
Plates and Bowls
Shower
What to pack?
Shoes
Mosquito repellent
Water bottle
Sunscreen
Flanno
Spreadsheets
Anxiety
Busyness
unyoked.co
SB / #55 / 74

75 / #55 / SB

for beginners
words: helen chapman
As the affordable, hop-skip-and-a-jump for Aussies – particularly
surfers – there’s an unspoken assumption that every Aussie has been
and knows exactly what it’s all about.
We know that’s not true, and there are plenty of us that haven’t
yet enjoyed all the unique experiences the Indonesian island has to
offer. So for the first timers, here’s a few Bali tips for beginners.
sb / #55 / 76

Know before you go.
Knowledge is power, and a little planning goes a long way
in a foreign country. There are so many brilliant online and
printed resources available, you simply have no reason to not
do your research before you go. Planning will take the mental
load off for when you hit that busy airport terminal.
Some recommendations? The evergreen Indo Surf and Lingo
book by the late Peter Neely still stands the test of time
and is a valuable offline guide for surfers of all abilities. For
more general info online, Bali Buddies (balibuddies.com) is
an excellent resource to answer your pre-travel questions,
like currency exchange tips and advice on being respectful
of Balinese culture. The Bali Bible (thebalibible.com) is a bit
more commercial travel and accommodation-focused, but
has some handy inspiration on everything from activities to
accommodation options, dining, nightlife and more. Other
than that? Google.
Make it out of the airport
and get around.
You’ll be swamped with offers of taxis and transport at the
airport. One easy way to prepare is to get a driver to pick you
up. Rates are generally reasonable and you know you have
local knowledge on your side.
Jason, otherwise known as “Ade”, is a local artist who also
drives, and is the Smorgasboarder go-to for airport pickup
and driving around the island. It’s great to have someone you
get to know and trust. Most often the local recommendations
are worth more than the transport. Contact Ade on
WhatsApp +6287861026492 or Instagram @coastin_bali.
To keep things super cheap and flexible, download the Gojek
app – the Balinese Uber. Using Gojek, you can get around on
the back of a moped, or in a car, for a couple of dollars. Plus,
you can use it to order food, which is really handy.
If you do hop in a cab or onto a scooter, just make sure you
negotiate the rate first! People will shout “taxi” and hoot at
you no matter where you are walking. If you hop in, or on a
vehicle – even with the Gojek branding – and you haven’t
negotiated a rate you will pay up to 10 times the price
you would pay by using the App. Make sure you have the
correct money if possible (change can sometimes end in an
awkward negotiation).
GET SOME CASH
Keep your life simple – not all places accept cards in Bali, and
cash is generally king. Shop around for a decent currency
exchange rate locally and have some Rupiah in your wallet
ready to go. Plus, you get to feel super rich with all those
millions in your moneybag...
When in Bali, try to only use an ATM inside a bank or other
reputable business. Steer clear of street money changers.
You might get your money changed into thin air...

GET CONNECTED.
Whatsapp. Everybody seems to use Whatsapp for general
communication - from drivers to surf schools to restaurants... Have the
app installed and you’ll have that communication channel open to you.
Make sure you either have roaming set up on your mobile phone, or
grab a new tourist sim card at a kiosk at the airport. WiFi isn’t always
readily available, so don’t rely on finding a connection.
HAGGLE.
Advice given by a Bali local: “Start at half price, then go lower”. Jokes
aside, haggling at market stalls is part of the experience, but be fair.
Don’t try to knock people down just because you can and always be
respectful. Haggling can be a bit of fun, but don’t be afraid to politely
say no and walk away. However, if constant negotiation gets your
blood pressure up, you can find fixed price shopping options. Bigger
supermarkets, like Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak, have rows of
souvenirs that you would get at the street markets at fixed prices. So if
you were looking to have a less vocal, albeit less ‘authentic’, shopping
experience, simply head to a supermarket.
TIPPING.
Although not a written rule in Bali, tipping your driver, masseuse or
wait staff is pretty much expected. You already have service charges in
most hotels, restaurants and beach clubs so tipping isn’t required, but
it’s definitely the nice thing to do. The general word on the street is to
simply round up, so if your taxi costs Rp32,0000 (approx. $3.20) give
the driver Rp35,0000 (approx. $3.50) everyone is happy and no one is
scratching around for small change.
Explore and experience it.
Especially for us Aussies spoilt with a local surf break or beach,
it doesn’t have to be all about the beach. Take a trip to Ubud, for
example, and you can enjoy everything from interacting with cheeky
monkeys, to white water rafting, to taking in the majestic views from
a giant swing. Take in a temple, learn about the local people and
culture.
You could even participate in a traditional ceremony like a full
moon blessing where you get dressed in traditional sarongs, make
offerings as a gesture of gratitude (usually flowers and incense in
a woven bamboo container), meditate and eat delicious food. For
example, Conrad Bali Hotel in Nusa Dua do one every month –
follow them on Instagram to get dates and notifications for when
the next ceremony will happen.
Getting off the beaten track is always rewarding, but even the
well-worn tourist tracks offer up something so different from the
typical western holiday experience, so it’s worth not writing anything
off before you’ve tried it – especially as a first-timer. Make some
memories and Bali will expand what you think you know.
sb / #55 / 78

Beaches vs beach clubs.
On a Balinese beach you’ll generally expect to have locals selling
you trinkets while trying to give you pedicures and massages.
You can choose to go with the flow while trying not to get fleeced
of too much of your holiday cash, or politely decline and try to
enjoy the sunshine, but they don’t take no for an answer easily.
Alternately, you could take the route of the rich and famous and
stump up for a committed spend at one of the beach clubs.
Spend a set amount of money and you get access to a beach
lounge away from the hustle and bustle, generally with a DJ
and a hundred Instagram influencers elbowing each other out
of the way for the perfect shot. Why knock either? Both are fun
experiences, and that’s why you’re going to Bali, right? So, give
both ends of the spectrum a go.
An important note is that there are no flags at beaches. Tragedies
do happen. The rips are no different to what we experience in
Australia, so be safe, staying waist deep for the kids and those
that aren’t confident swimmers.
Absolute beginner or with kids?
Learn to surf.
As much as there are surf spots of legend to visit here, Bali is a
perfectly idyllic spot for learning to surf. With friendly instructors and
affordable prices, this is the top item on the beginners’ bucket list.
Balangan beach is a great example, where a surf lesson sets you
back less than $60. This is negotiable, like everything in Bali.
The girls here booked through WhatsApp: $100 for two people doing
a two-hour private lesson, including boards and rashies, where
people walking in off the street were a firm $60 and some even $75 if
they were pushy. Either way, an hour or two spent in the water with a
friendly local surf instructor, worth every second for the unforgettable
feeling of popping up for the first time.
FOOD: Enjoy the Adventure
BUT DON’t drink the water
You’re not going to get your typical western feed here, so
be prepared for some tastebud challenges and be ready for
rice. Be as smart as you can about the hygiene of where you
choose to eat – Bali belly is real and can cut a good day or
two out of your holiday. That said, definitely don’t drink the
water! Water quality isn’t what you’d be used to at home
and swigging from the tap – even just getting some tapwater
ice in a drink – could see you chatting on the porcelain
phone for a few hours – or worse. Stick to bottled water,
even for brushing your teeth and simply avoid the hassle.
Don’t fret, you can still drink those cheap cocktails,
restaurant and hotel ice is generally good, made with filtered
water, so sip away.
79 / #55 / sb

FO LED
no more
SB / #55 / 80

Assumedly, no one in their right mind wants
to surf where everyone else is. Uncrowded
waves, isn’t that what we all dream of?
So, why is it that we all congregate on
top of one another in the same spot?
Partly, it is due to the simple fact that is where
the waves are breaking. It is possibly also due
to the fact that many humans have similar
traits to those of sheep. But what if there was
an alternative where you didn’t have to surf
where everyone else is? Where you didn’t have
to surf where particular waves were breaking
and instead you could surf completely
unridden waves all by yourself away from the
hordes?
Well, dream no more. It is a reality. It is called
foiling. Jack Field talks with us about the true
spirit of foiling.
As Jack passionately explained throughout
our conversation, foiling was never intended
to be something you take to crowded lineups,
potentially slicing through unsuspecting souls
like a giant knife through butter. Its original
invention was to capitalise on wind-generated
swell that, until now, remained unridden due
to the fact that missing from the essential
ingredient in the mix to create surfable
waves was a complementary sea floor. If the
wave doesn’t break, you can’t ride it with a
surfboard, but you can with a foilboard.
First things first, for those who might have
missed edition 51, what is a foil, or specifically,
foiling? As we firmly tongue-in-cheek
described it, foiling is where you attach what
resembles a huge butcher’s cleaver with
wings to a platform resembling a surfboard.
Technically it is about engaging hydrofoil
technology.
A hydrofoil is a lifting surface that operates
in water, and are similar in appearance and
purpose to aerofoils used by aeroplanes. The
hydrofoil has a flat or curved winglike surface
that is designed to lift the board by means of
the reaction upon its surface from the water
through which it moves. A hydrofoil works
on the principle of Newton’s third law — “For
every action in nature, there is an equal and
opposite reaction.” As the surfboard begins to
gain speed, the wings push the water down,
creating an upward force lifting the board out
of the water and, as the board gathers speed,
there is less friction, creating less drag and
assisting with an acceleration of speed.
So basically, once you have the speed to
engage the foil and lift the board out of the
water, you have the kind of acceleration you
cannot achieve on a normal surfboard without
riding a breaking wave. If the wave doesn’t
break, a traditional surfboard will drop back
off the face of the wave because the wave
is moving faster than the surfboard, but with
a hydrofoil you are engaging the energy in
the water below the wave, rather than on the
surface, to generate speed and hence you can
more easily maintain your momentum on the
wave.
In short, you can catch unbroken waves with
a foil that you cannot on a normal surfboard,
thus opening Pandora’s box and unridden
swell galore right along the Australian coast.
Jack elaborates on the potential breaks all
within our grasp.
“Look out the window on nearly any given day
and what you see is wind. The resulting effect
of wind travelling across a body of water is
that it generates swell, whether that be in the
ocean or on a river or a lake.
“Well, my focus for many years has been on
getting in sync and harnessing this energy,
the energy that is transferred from wind to
water. From my own esoteric point of view,
I find it calming – to endeavour to be in sync
with nature and ride that energy. What we
have to do as surfers however, is wait until all
that energy hits something (an elevated ocean
floor) and throws it up in the air, whether it’s
30 to 40 foot waves at the Eddie (Eddie Aikau
Memorial Big Wave Contest in Hawaii) or a
two foot swell here in Mooloolaba. We all
congregate around that transition from swell
into waves.
“Some of us get carried away with the fact
that ‘it’s mine’ and we will snake and carry on
and get all worked up about our ‘ownership’
of those said waves, when in actual fact, if you
look around at the some 3000km of eastern
seaboard, there are thousands of rideable
swells that are coming into beaches, or not
even to beaches, it can be just the shoreline
that is unridden and totally there. We simply
don’t go there because it’s not breaking.
But there is a way we can capitalise on wind
generated swell, and that is through foiling.
And to be able to ride a wind generated swell
with no one around, it gives you such a sense
of serenity through feeling the connection to
the energy source. It is hard to describe. Ask
anyone who has foiled downwind offshore.”
81 / #55 / SB

Jack explains the whole appeal of foiling
to him, whether it be with a kite, wing,
paddle or just the foilboard alone, is the
fact that you can actually go somewhere
without having to interrupt everyone
else’s enjoyment out in the surf.
“Yeah, the Wambos as I call them
(wannabe wave Rambos) are the guys
who will screw it up for everyone because
they’re egomaniacs and they have to have
an audience of people watching them in
and out of crowded surf breaks when in
actual fact they can go wherever all by
themselves.”
It is at this point I discussed with Jack his
focus on what can be best described as
‘assisted foiling’. The big issue with foiling
being generating enough initial speed to
engage the foil and get the board out of
the water. Only so many people are skilled
enough and light enough to be able to
generate the speed required to get a
small foil board up out of the water on foil,
otherwise they have to rely on a foilboard
the size of a SUP to give them the
flotation they need to generate enough
paddle power and speed to get on foil.
With the smaller foilboards that is why you
see the riders jumping up and down like
jackhammers to try and engage the foil
and get the board to lift. When you lean
back, the wings tilt upright and in turn the
board lifts up. You tilt forward and the
foil levels and glides with the board out
of the water. Pumping backwards and
forwards, front foot, back foot, front foot
again generates forward motion thanks
to the mysterious law of physics falling
under the category of kinetic energy, but
it is bloody difficult and exhausting. It is
here Jack picks up on our reference to the
current crop of motorised foilboards we
mentioned in this former article.
“I’ve just reread your story on foiling
and specifically in relation to motorised
foilboards and you’re right, you’ve got
a thing there which is 30kg (the battery
alone weighs 11kg) and it’s designed
to go full tilt at 40km an hour. So, if you
ride one of those you’re just a petrol
head. You might as well be on a jet ski or
speedboat. It doesn’t enable you to feel
and connect with the natural energy force
I previously mentioned at all.
“So, our focus has been on finding a
means by which you can be assisted to
get the board up and out of the water and
on foil, and then, let Mother Nature do her
thing.”
Jack’s discovery of Foil Drive appears to
be a solution for now.
“These guys have been really clever
about it. Instead of making a foilboard to
go 40kms an hour, they’ve considered a
way in which they can simply assist riders
to get up on foil and over to the swell
line where Mother Nature can then take
over. This has seen the battery required
significantly reduce in size from 11kgs
down to 2kgs.
SB / #55 / 82

The Foil Drive essentially allows you to
move at twice the paddle speed.
“There is still someways to go I believe
in terms of bringing down the price but
at $5,500 for the motorised Foil Drive
propellor plus say $1500 for a board it is
significantly cheaper than a motorised
Flightboard that will cost you anything
from $14,000 through to $18,000. I see
this advancement in the technology as
opening up more avenues for people
to get into foiling. We believe there
will be improved assist systems as
more people discover the joy of riding
uncrowded swells.”
As Jack explains it, learning to ride a foil
is not dissimilar to riding a bike. Once
you have the hang of it and have done
it a few times, muscle memory takes
over. It is training your muscles in the
first instance that just takes a little time,
which is made all the more difficult by
the challenge of firstly getting the board
up on foil.
“That’s the real challenge, getting the
board on foil initially. You have to get
this thing moving fast enough to get it
up on foil and then you have to quickly
get to your feet and make sure your
feet are in the right position. Then when
it comes up on foil you have to deal
with balancing the foil while you’re
two feet above the water, which just
further exaggerates the whole balancing
thing. But once you are up on foil it is
like riding a bike, you will have a little
wobble but it will maybe take you a
couple of sessions to get the hang of it.”
So, to recap what Jack is saying here,
learning to balance the foil doesn’t take
too long, it is getting the board on foil
that takes some doing. That is why you
see foilers trying to catch the whitewash
to get some initial momentum, pumping
feverishly up and down to get the board
going fast enough to get it on foil.
Alternatively, they will use larger boards
the size of a SUP to assist with flotation
and paddle power, but once up on
foil you don’t particularly want all that
board sticking up in the air because it
becomes unwieldly. All you really need
once up on foil is a small platform upon
which to stand, the board is simply a
mechanism to help you get up on foil.
The Foil Drive essentially eradicates the
need for a big board.
“All you really need is tiny platform upon
which to stand. That’s why you see
those who can really foil up on a 4’, 35
litre board. The board simply provides
the buoyancy to help get you to your
feet. The bigger you are, the bigger
board you require. The better you are,
the smaller board you require. The Foil
Drive simply levels the playing field. The
motorised propellor gives you the speed
and buoyancy you need to get up on foil
so you won’t need as big a board.
“So, our focus has been on
finding a means by which you
can be assisted to get the
board up and out of the water
and on foil, and then,
let Mother Nature do
her thing.”
83 / #55 / SB

“Our boards are still
lightweight as we
utilise sustainable
natural materials to
deliver great strength
to weight ratios with
high impact strength.”
“Once you are up and running, you can motor
out to the swell line, pull around and onto some
swell and turn off the motor. Doing it that way
you will get about two hours riding out of the
battery and I challenge many to go beyond that
two hours because you are knackered. That is
all you need. This way you have the assist of
the motor where you need it and then you tap
into nature’s energy source, being the wind and
water. It is the best of both worlds.”
Jack simply sees the technology as a means
to introduce more people to foiling and open
up the opportunity to ride unridden swells. As
many would attest to, our local breaks are most
definitely becoming more and more crowded
so any reduction or diversion of these numbers
has to be seen as a positive. What Jack does
craft however is a pretty impressive range of
foilboards for beginners
through to the most
experienced.
“We basically produce
right here on the Sunny
Coast two ranges of Foil
boards. The Foilz8 is our
entry level beginner board
range priced at $880 and
comes in two lengths – 4’8”
and a 5’. The SURFoilz
is our high-performance
foil board range and here
we have boards for prone foiling through to
downwinding, SUP and wingsurfing.
“We’re really concentrating on producing
a more sustainable foil board. We have
steered away from carbon because, whether
or not people are aware, it is not great for
the environment, absolutely terrible to work
with (carbon dust), has extremely low impact
resistance, and the boards are prone to
overheating if left in the heat. We exclusively
use vacuum technology, having manufactured
over five thousand boards in the last decade
using this technology.
“Our boards are still lightweight as we utilise
sustainable natural materials to deliver a great
strength to weight ratios with high impact
strength.”
Jack informs me his workshop right near the
Sunshine Coast airport also specialises in foil
repairs and the installation of the Foil Drive
motorised propellor we spoke of earlier. Not
only that, but he also has a foil simulator in the
workshop where you can experience the feeling
of balancing the foil board prior to going to the
expense of purchasing a foil board. It’s basically
a one stop shop – beginner foil boards,
performance foil boards, foil repairs and foil
experience all in one. It prompts Jack to recall
his childhood growing up near Williamstown
Beach in Melbourne’s southern outskirts.
“I used to ride my bike over to Williamstown
Beach from Spotswood with a huge board in
tow whenever there was some wind generated
swell. The board was the first I hand shaped
from a solid slab of balsa 8’ long by 2’ wide and
6” thick. I used to clamp on pram wheels to the
nose and hang onto the
big plywood fin while I
rode my bike the 6km trip.
Who would have thought
60 years on this whole
wind and water energy
transfer I loved so much
as a kid would have such
an effect on me all these
years later.”
surfoilz.com
SB / #55 / 84

gear
BALSA BEAUTY
Looks good, feels good, surfs incredible.
words: dave swan
First of all, this board is drop dead sexy. If
you’re currently single, this will fill any void
in your life. Secondly, it is incredibly light.
Indeed, I have never owned a board this light
(and I presently have a 6’4” Sunova quad
in my quiver that doesn’t even come close).
Thirdly, the length and plan shape are just
what I love and being a twin, it was the icing
on the cake. With all that said, I confess to
some trepidation when trying out this board
for the first time.
My surfing over the last five to six months has
been limited to say the least. Regular readers
will know I am accident prone way beyond
the norm. Over the last half a year I have torn
my calf twice, in two different spots, a grade
two and then a grade three tear, just getting
myself right from the first injury to do it all
over again before I got a chance to surf (how
do you even tear a calf twice when you don’t
even have any?). Then, when I was finally
right and heading out for a surf one afternoon,
just before I ventured out I managed to fall
three metres from a ladder onto a frameless
glass pool fence somehow avoiding cutting
myself in two but still managing to near
sever my left ear off, split open my head and
break six of my ribs. A trip to the hospital,
five staples to the noggin, some crafty
plastic surgery stitching to the ear and a can
of toughen up for the ribs is what ensued
and needless to say, I was out of the surf
for another couple of months. Anyhow, this
incredible board arrived as a cheer-me-up
Christmas gift from none other than Mark
Riley of Riley Balsa Surfboards. I was super
keen to try it out as soon as my body healed.
My first surf back was on a longboard to
simply test all my injuries had healed, and the
second surf back was on this beauty. Before
I entered the water however, questions rolled
around inside my head that, given the amount
of injuries I had sustained, my extended
absence from the water, and the fact my
surfing was never flash anyhow, could still
surf a board like this? This little fish quickly
allayed any fears. Thanks to the EPS core it
was super buoyant and easy to paddle out
which in turn made it just as easy to paddle
onto waves. A magic rail line with a tucked
in tail enabled me to slot into the pocket of
some little Sunshine Coast sliders. Thanks
to the two hand-shaped wooden fins it had
plenty of drive whilst enabling you to perform
some nice drawn-out curves. The boards
lightness further assisted in this area as it
allowed you to whip it around.
This board featured the Versa traction grip,
and this was the first I had tested it. It was
steady under foot, I didn’t slip at all and in
fact noted no difference to wax. What I did
appreciate however was not having to wax
my board and the fact the board looks so
pristine. This shape was also the first Mark
had produced with a matte finish as opposed
to a gloss polish. Not only did it look amazing,
but I far prefer it to the polish. For mine, it
complements the light colour of the balsa
better than the gloss and you have more
traction when gripping the rails duck diving
and getting to your feet.
SB / #55 / 86

gear
SAM SWAN
Mark riley
THE SHAPER
Mark Riley has been shaping beautiful
balsa boards for over 27 years,
shipping them to his clientele around
the globe. Whether it is a lightweight,
high performance recycled EPS core
and balsa skin surfboards such as this
or a traditional solid balsa collectible,
he shapes them all for their intended
use, by hand. Fishes, longboards,
single fins, guns, funboards and
paddleboards, there is absolutely
nothing he hasn’t shaped. Having
ridden a number of his boards and now
the proud owner of this little fish, I can
testify they are the ducks guts and surf
as good as they look. There is nothing
better than having a functional piece
of art that you can mount on a wall at
your home or office and then take it
down and surf it, and not just meander
around on wave but really rip it to
pieces (in my mind anyway).
Mark’s high-performance range feature
a recycled EPS form core with a
vacuum-wrapped 2-3mm balsa skin
glassed in epoxy resin. This not only
delivers an incredible strength to weight
ratio, it makes them super durable and
arguably one of the most sustainably
made surfboards on the planet.
THE BOARD
6’2” x 21 ½” x 2 7/8”
x
x
Fully hand-shaped
100% recycled
EPS foam core
x x
x
x
x
Vacuum-wrapped
2mm sustainablygrown
balsa skin
Solid balsa rails
Cedar and balsa
handmade nose
and tail blocks
Cedar feature
pinlines
x
x
Hand-shaped
balsa and cedar
fins
Revered Gearbox
fin system with
matching wood
covers
Carbon footprint
reportedly less
than a quarter of
a traditional PU
surfboard
balsawoodsurfboardsriley.com
87 / #55 / SB

gear
Hemp-powered
You may remember Stephen Halpin from our last edition as
the shaper who miraculously transforms venetian blinds
into beautiful wooden surfboards.
Every surfboard Stephen shapes is created with the
belief that we all have to look after the environment
however we can. Based in Coolum Beach on the
Sunshine Coast, he is the founder of Shapes by Steveo
and uses recycled wood, sustainably grown timber and
eco-friendly materials wherever possible to create his
boards.
Having been around docks and aircraft hangars for
most of his childhood, Stephen has always had an
appreciation of hydrodynamics and aeronautics.
Growing up, he was constantly building and tinkering
with timber. This, paired with his passion for surfing,
made him want to learn more about how to design his
own surfboard and experiment with a board’s lines,
curve and flow.
After moving to Noosa at 26, he studied the subtle craft
of surfboard manufacturing under many well-respected
shapers. Now, Stephen has his own business designing
and manufacturing a variety of surfboards, although,
wooden boards is what he truly enjoys the most.
Most recently, he has delved into the vast capabilities of
hemp in his new eco-friendly board range: Hemp Tech.
Stephen said his Hemp Tech boards are made from
a variety of hemp materials such as hemp flax, cloth,
linen, silk, a basalt/hemp woven cloth, and they use
recycled polystyrene blanks with organic epoxy resin.
“I use the leftover polystyrene that I get from Brisbane
factories. When I get the re-ground and re-blown blanks
I then put in sustainable plantation timber –
Paulownia for the stringer.
“There is also a minimum amount of
fibreglass that is used when making it, so it’s
a lot greener than a normal PU surfboard.”
Each board is fully handmade in Australia
from the start of the shaping process to the
finish and has the personal touch of a handpainted
logo on each. In addition to being
eco-friendly, Stephen said hemp comes in a
lot of different styles of fabric and can make
for a very beautiful board.
“Hemp has a greyish sort of look to it, but
the linen can come in any colour that you
want. Hemp flax comes in a light or dark
chocolate and the hemp silk is white with a
pearly sheen.
“Hemp was used all over the world until it
got outlawed and plastics began to surface.
I’d really like to see a comeback in it,
because it can do everything plastic can do
and a lot more.
“Hemp was the past, and it’s going to be the
future, because people are starting to realise
the number of plastics that are in the ocean,
and just don’t want to see it anymore.”
shapesbysteveo.com

WACKO
5’11
19 - 2 1/2
31.0L
The Wacko can
be a one-board
quiver. It’s good for
wedging, slabbing
waves and is also
a great follow-on
as a better wave
step-up board for
those who ride a
wider, high-volume
shortboard or fish
design. I also ride
mine as a lazy
winter paddler in
small waves.
NAPALM
6’4
19 - 2 1/2
32.5L
The Napalm loves
being surfed hard
and fast and is my
personal favourite
for overhead waves.
What surfers have
enjoyed with this
board is the free
and forgiving feeling
combined with the
ability to really put
the board on rail and
push as hard as you
want with no need
to hold back. This
board has no limits.
DESERT
STORM
7’6
19 3/4 - 3 1/8
48.5L
The Desert Storm is
making a significant
impact on big wave
gun design as a
proven performer
in many locations.
The Desert Storm is
the next level gun
where volume is
the key between
missing and
catching the
biggest wave of
your life.
webstersurfboards.com.au
Webster Surfboards has become world
renowned for innovative, trustworthy
and versatile designs. We understand
that all of the variables involved in the
shaping of a surfboard are dependent
on the surfer, the waves they ride and
their surfing style.
The correct volume for any surfboard
will simply provide a surfer with the
best opportunity to enjoy their surfing!
The first consideration is the surfer
– specifically, their size, height,
weight and their surfing style and
technique. Webster Surfboards
considers a surfer’s quiver in any initial
design consult and relevant width
considerations given across the quiver
will help the transition between boards!
The next considerations are the speed,
power and size of the waves the surfer
intends to ride. The final consideration
is how the surfer approaches waves.
The more demanding and critical the
manoeuvres a surfer wants to perform,
the less tolerance there is in varying
from correct volume.
A board with correct volume that is
well foiled and distributed will paddle
and catch waves well, create and
sustain planning speed, and most
importantly, engage rails with sufficient
rail volume to accelerate out of turns.
Correct volume offers a surfer
optimum performance in every section
of a wave – which is why this process
is so important to Webster surfboards,
because quality and satisfaction is
what our boards are all about.
CONTACT
0416 049 205
INFO@WEBSTERSURFBOARDS.COM.AU
1/13 CLARK ST, BALLINA NSW 2478
89 / #52 / SB

surfer_ Benny Hansen
photographer_ Michael Lester
shaper_ dburge
WORLD CLASS AUSTRALIAN MADE
SURFBOARDS AT AFFORDABLE PRICES
Custom Shortboards
Hybrid & Fishes
Mals and Logs
Factory 3/6 Kerta Rd, Kincumber NSW 2251
M: 0415 577 085

It all began in 1957 in the
back streets of Brookvale
on the Northern Beaches
of Sydney, Australia, by our
legendary Denny Keogh.
Through his foresight and openness to
innovate; Keyo became one of the pioneering
brands in Australian surf history and a major
player in the shortboard revolution.
Keyo embraced technology for production,
pushed design through ingenuity and quality
through craftsmanship. This is still the way
things are done today. The brand is still
family run and owned. Headed up by Denny’s
daughter, Vanessa and her husband/shaper
Johnny Gill.
Together they collaborate to
create simple and fun-ctional
surfboards and essentials for
all your adventures.
Keyo is all about the common-thread created
by the surf, the craft and the people that help
build our ever-growing community.
0414 577 813
johnny@keyointernational.com
keyointernational.com

gear
When we say we make custom
surfboards we mean custom!!! All
the bells and whistles on this one.
Challenging but fun build with all the
best materials and labour.
#clarksurfboards #thedingking
#customsurfboards #burfordblanks
#ridefutures #foamspray
#glosspolish #madeinadelaide
#quality #oneofakind
THE DING KING /
CLARK SURFBOARDS
Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road,
Hackham, SA
E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au
M: 0422 443 789
Go
Wild!
RABBIDGE
SURF
DESIGNS
different to the rest.
PHONE: 02 4456 4038
MOBILE: 0427 767 176
EMAIL: markrab88@gmail.com
mark_rabbidge_surf_design
SB / #55 / 92

gear
Burford Blanks
provides surfboard
blanks and
other surfboard
materials to help
you build your
ultimate surfboard
including:
Foam surfboard blanks
Polyester resin
Fibreglass
Fibreglass fins
@burfordblanks
Burford
blanks
Located in Currumbin, we have
been supplying to the surfboard
industry since 1966, providing
services Australia-wide and
exporting internationally. Our
goal is to get your project on
the right track with the right
surfboard blanks and materials
for your needs. When you shop
for surfboard blanks with us,
you can rest assured your needs
are in the hands of a dedicated
family-run business.
Whether you know exactly what
you need for your surfboard
requirements or you could
benefit from some professional
advice, we’re happy to help.
Call us today!
07 5534 3777 to speak
to one of our surfboard
blanks specialists!
www.burfordblanksaustralia.com.au
93 / #55 / SB

art
Life’s
a trip
Chances are, if you
follow Paul Tyler’s
journey up the east
coast of Australia,
you will find his art
adorning something
or another, whether
it be surfboards,
murals or stickers
posted on beachside
lampposts.
Known by many as Tyler, the surf artist
is notorious for living the nomadic van
life and trailing behind vibrant, quirky
canvasses wherever he goes. Inspired
by coastal landscapes, his life on the
road and ocean conservation, Tyler’s
psychedelic paintings were originally a
colourful way to relax during a not-socolourful
time in his life.
In a far cry from his current lifestyle, Tyler
used to live in Torquay, Victoria where
he owned a few businesses including a
skate shop, restaurant and café. Tyler
said everyone goes through things in
their life that change their direction, and
for him, it was bankruptcy and divorce.
“After that, I sort of questioned
everything that I was doing in my
adulting. I guess when you live with all
these materialistic things like money
and houses and then you lose it all, you
realise you can’t go through life doing the
same and expecting a different result.
So, I did everything differently.
“As I was going through bankruptcy, I
didn’t have anywhere to live. I guess you
could say homeless, but it depends on
how you approach homelessness. Some
people sleep on the side of the road,
whereas I had a little tent that I set up in
a park in Byron.
“It was kind of sad, but then I started
drawing my art, and I think that brought
me both happiness and something to
ground myself with. More importantly,
my art kind of kept my mind still and
made me focus on drawing with bright
colours and happiness even though
personally, I was in a pretty dark place.
“From that, I learnt how to live really
basically – with needs and not wants.
I have learnt so many lessons living
like that, which I am still learning today
five years on. The solitude is hard
sometimes, but you also learn a lot about
yourself. You need to be comfortable in
your own skin and in who you are as a
person, and you have to be humble and
happy with living simply.”
SB / #55 / 94

Everyone is so insistent on telling you what you
can’t do in life – you can’t surf, you can’t take your
dog, you can’t stay in your van. If there is a rule
that hasn’t been made yet, they put it on a sign.
After living in a tent in Byron, Tyler
said he travelled to New Zealand
and lived in the mountains near
Tongariro Alpine Crossing, where
every morning was like walking out
the back door and seeing a volcano
in his backyard.
“When Covid came along in 2020,
I was required to head back to
Australia, which turned out to be
the best thing that ever happened
to me, because I got back and had
access to money. So I bought a
van and then just started travelling
the east coast of Australia while
dodging lockdowns. Everyone else
had to stay home, but I was free,
so I went all the way to the top of
Australia and back.
“It was bizarre, because I went
through Cape Tribulation and there
were a lot of people in vans and
being nomadic, but no tourists.
I also remember driving to Airlie
Beach and just being wowed,
because there was all this beautiful
blue water but no one around.”
Tyler’s art is best described as
psychedelic snapshots of Australian
surf culture, with each having a
meaningful message behind its
madness. A great example is a
beautiful piece of his depicting
whales being taken away by UFO’s
over a desert. He explained it was
about aliens taking their pets back
home before humanity made them
extinct, which gave an impactful
meaning behind its title, ‘Homeward
Bound’. Tyler’s soft spot for whales
and their conservation is seen in
many of his pieces, as well as his
advocacy for more freedom on
Australian beaches.
“My favourite piece would probably
be the one with all of the signs.
Everyone is so insistent on telling
you what you can’t do in
life – you can’t surf,
you can’t take your
dog, you can’t stay
in your van. If there
is a rule that hasn’t
been made yet,
they put it on a sign.
Seeing the signs and
people breaking the
rules right next to
them always gives me
a bit of a laugh and inspires
heaps of my canvasses.
95 / #55 / SB

art
“I can paint every day for hours on end and can
lose days so easily. It’s very peaceful and such a
nice way to relax, because when you’re focussing
there’s no room for clutter in your head. To immerse
yourself in art and then share it with other people is
such a positive thing.
“The selling of my art just came about on its own,
someone simply came up to me and offered to buy
one of my canvasses. My intention was never to
really to sell my art. I just drew because it made me
happy and kept my mind still, but then the more
that I drew the more I started putting myself out
there.
“I think people also don’t expect to see someone
with all of their canvasses spread out all over the
footpath and drawing on the spot. People will stop
and chat and it’s the conversations that come out of
it that are so special.”
After travelling to just about every gorgeous beach
and national park on the east coast of Australia, it
would’ve been an oversight not to pick Tyler’s brain
about the very best his trips had to offer. With a
map in front of him, Tyler easily pointed out his gem
locations, which included Wilsons Prom in Victoria
and Jervis Bay, Blue Mountains and Newcastle in
New South Wales.
“The east coast has so many beautiful, stand out
beaches, but I would definitely recommend Cape
Tribulation. I love it and keep going back to it. It’s
where the rainforest meets the ocean and reef –
where two national parks meet each other. The
entire Great Ocean Road is also just beautiful.
“A few places are really strict. In the Gold Coast I
had a ranger stop me because they consider what
I do a commercial business. I am just painting
out of a van, I just want to spread art, colour and
happiness, but I get asked to pack up a lot, and
it’s whatever. In the Gold Coast, I got fined $667
because I was sleeping in my van, and it’s a similar
fine with my art on the beach.
SB / #55 / 96

art
I just want to spread art,
colour and happiness..
“Over the last three years, I have done
90,000 kms on the east coast. So I mean
that is a lot of laps. I am at the point now
where I struggle to think about what beach
I haven’t been to. Now when I travel I’ll
start driving up some random road and see
what’s at the end.”
One of Tyler’s new avenues is drone
photography, which allows him to view the
beaches he has visited so many times from a
new perspective. He has also found a lot of
success after releasing his first jigsaw puzzle
and would love to create more, although he
will be travelling to Asia and cannot make
sales until he gets back in June.
When asked about his long-term plans, Tyler
said he simply doesn’t have any besides
continuing to travel, spread colour and leave
a trail of vivid artwork in his wake.
“It’s just finding a balance between my
projects and the life that I live. I am also
going to Asia, so hopefully I save money
being overseas and find some inspiration for
my art.
“I just wish the universe sends me
something amazing every day, but then, it
does that anyway. I don’t know if I’m ever
going to settle, or even what that means for
me. Every day is just another day, and it can
bring anything,” he said.
97 / #55 / SB

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