TASTEBeer TourismExploring the complexity of the worldbeer by beerby Vincenzo Salvatore84 #1-2023 CigarsLover Magazine
After decades on the sidelines of touristic attractivity– if not for few famous pubs in Ireland,Belgium, Germany, and Czech Republic – therise of the craft beer movement has recentlybeen expanding in an unthinkable way the horizons ofenogastronomy, that sweet tooth for food and wine delicatessensthat drives the interest of tourists travelling insearch of the authentic experience of traditional cuisine.Yet, it is not just gluttony that leads thousands of peopleto visit less frequented and less touristic-oriented places.Neolocalism, a cultural movement aimed at preservingthe identity of a community and promoting aspectsthat make it unique, had a strong influence on peoplewho love to travel, but hate finding themselves in theme-park-areasthat feel like plastic diorama and haveno soul. The idea behind enogastronomical tourism, andespecially beer tourism, is to live authentic experiencesin the places of production and invention of those ingredientsand traditions: you go there only if you want todiscover a different local culture, which means learninghow things are brought from land to table. Beer, of course,has the great capacity to allow people to overcomecultural and even linguistic barriers thanks to its easinessand spontaneity.True, the big numbers in the beer tourism industry – alsoknown as beercations – are still made by big playerslike the Guinness factory in Dublin (more than a millionvisitors every year), the famous Belgian producers orthe German Oktoberfest (more than six million visitors)and the historical Brauhaus in Munich and Cologne. Yet,more and more tourists are choosing to visit unlikelytouristic destinations just because an interesting newmicrobrewery or gastropub opened. No matter howsmall and apparently unattractive those places can be –say a former industrial city in the American Midwest oran almost abandoned old town carved in the mountainstone of the Apennine in rural Italy: the true attractionbecomes the possibility of an unmediated and really authenticgastronomical experience, lived next to where acertain cheese is made, a wine is fermented, or a beeris brewed.Microbreweries, which by definition are the heart andsoul of the craft beer movement, were also born out ofthe longing for a bygone era of a truer and more directrelationship between producers and consumers. It isthe local aspect of a craft beer production, as the sourcingof raw ingredients from local suppliers that bearthe unique mark of the geographical area where theyare grown, that usually drives the interest of the beeraficionado. This aspect has always been quite strongin the wine industry, with the concept of terroir and thecharm of the winery as a place of great craftmanship,deserved to be visited in order to fully understand thesecret behind that special bottle. Microbreweries addedan even stronger connection to their milieu and community:often, one cannot find their production elsewhere,as it can be extremely limited or the sales can be restrictedto the brewery pub. Drinking a beer in place likethese means to get in touch with the community thatmade the effort to imagine a different present for them:microbrewers are often experts who travelled the world,learned the ropes elsewhere, and then decided to comeback to their birthplaces to contribute to their renaissancefrom abandonment and disrepair.In certain places, like rural Europe, microbreweries arelocated in amazing natural areas that were left behindby modernity and industrialization, but now can redeemthemselves through a combination of enogastronomicalofferings and natural scenery. But it is not always thecase, as shown by the phenomenon of many famous#1-2023 CigarsLover Magazine85
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ISSUE 1 - 2023The Difference.BLENDS
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