TravelWorld International Magazine Spring 2023

Riveria Maya, Mexico
SPRING 2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE
Welcome Spring!
The Magazine Written and Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members

Letter from the Editor
TravelWorld International Magazine
is the only magazine that showcases
the member talents of the
North American
Travel Journalists Association
SPRING
2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
Welcome Spring!
Welcome indeed! How ready we are for a rebirth, an
awakening of our senses and our activities! After a beautiful,
but difficult winter of extreme temperatures and grueling forces,
in which many lives have been pushed to the limits, we are
happy and hopeful to see new light dawning with warmth and
regrowth around us.
Our NATJA members contributing to this Spring Issue
have impressively reached a high bar of informative and
inspirational travel stories with exceptional photography!
You can travel the world, albeit viacariously, through their
stories from Japan, Egypt and Jordan, aound to Thailand,
Mexico and the Caribbean, and then upward, from the Pacific
Northwest, down to Texas and east to our newest National Park
in West Virginia! We really present the world in this issue!
Group Publisher:
Publishers:
VP Operations:
Editor in Chief:
Copy Editor:
NATJA Publications
Helen Hernandez &
Bennett W. Root, Jr.
Yanira Leon
Joy Bushmeyer
Omar Rodriguez
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Daniele Auvray
Carrie Dow
Julie Hatfield
Sarah Jaquay
Karen LeBlanc
Lisa Morales
Sarah Morgensen
Rose Palmer
Steve Rosenberg
Carla Rupp
Jason Rupp
Janice Sakata-Schultze
Welcome Spring!
All is Quiet at Riviera Maya, Mexico Julie Hatfield 6
Deja View St. John Carrie Dow 10
New River Gorge - America's Newest National Park Sarah Jaquay 14
Japan's "O-Bento" (Boxed Happiness) Daniele Auvray 20
Diving Cozumel Steve Rosenberg 24
Exploring Egypt During Ramadan Karen LeBlanc 32
10
14
Enjoy! And consider that Spring is the time
to get out and follow your dreams and
"spring into travel" once again!
DMO CONTRIBUTORS:
Buena Park, CA
Explore Fairbanks
Springfield, MO
Joy Bushmeyer,
Editor in Chief
Editorial /Advertising Offices:
TravelWorld International Magazine
3579 E. Foothill Blvd., #744
Pasadena, CA 91107
Phone: (626) 376-9754 Fax: (626) 628-1854
www.travelworldmagazine.com
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2
Cover Photo
In the serenity of this peaceful scene Julie Hatfield describes
the tranquility and harmonious silence she experienced while
visiting the TRS Yucatan hotel in Mexico, "tucked away, hours
from the Cancun airport, in a lush mangrove forest situated by
itself in a contained and beautiful oasis by the sea. It is private,
it is self-contained and guarded from civilization, ... it is an
enormous island of beauty, luxury, privacy. . . and quiet."
Photo provided by Julie Hatfield
Volume 2023.01 Spring 2023. Copyright ©2023
by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved.
Reproduction in whole or in part without written
permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and
information sent upon request. Acceptance of
advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine
in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by
NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services
advertised. NATJA Publications and TravelWorld
International Magazine reserve the right to reject
any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors
are their own and not necessarily those of Travel
World International Magazine or NATJA
Publications. TravelWorld International Magazine
reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity
and length, as well as to reject any material submitted,
and is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.
This periodical’s name and logo along with the
various titles and headings therein, are trademarks
of NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A.
24 32
3

SPRING
2023
travelworld
INTERNATIONAL
MAGAZINE
Welcome Spring!
A Culinary Trip through San Antonio Sarah Morgensen 38
From the Dead Sea to the Red Sea Rose Palmer 42
Exploring Bainbridge Island & the Kitsap Peninsula Lisa Morales 50
Krabi, Thailand, An Out-of-the -Way Nature Experience Carla & Jason Rupp 54
The Princess 360 Extraordinary Experience Janice Sakata-Schultze 60
38 42
50
54 60
4
Be inspired by the light of the Aurora Borealis. Renew your energy under
the Midnight Sun. Experience the warmth of Fairbanks–Alaska’s Golden Heart–
and the basecamp to Denali, Interior and Arctic Alaska.
Call 1-800-327-5774 for your free Fairbanks Visitors Guide.
Explore your Alaskan vacation at explorefairbanks.com.
5

his is TRS Yucatan
hotel, tucked away
hours from the Cancun
airport in a lush mangrove
forest situated by itself in a
contained and beautiful oasis by the
sea. It is private, it is self-contained
and guarded from civilization, but
it is an enormous island of beauty,
luxury, privacy. . . and quiet. A paved
jogging path of more than two miles
going around the perimeter of the
complex and completely enclosing
it allows runners to meditate on the
Foliage along the beachfront.
stunning scenery of the oasis.
TRS Yucatan hotel is part of a
complex of four hotels; a sort of
city off by itself, with 6 à la carte
restaurants and 6 bars exclusively for
Live flamingos at one of the hotels
in the hotel complex, the Grand
Palladium Colonial Resort & Spa
guests, a hydrotherapy spa, multiple
swimming pools, a wellness center,
a gym, an orchid nursery, and at the
The jogging path around the hotel
other family-friendly hotels a dive
center and baby and child activities
All is Quiet at Riviera Maya
clubs.
It’s a very long, winding road into
Cancun, Mexico
the complex so by the time you
reach the front desk, you know this
is a different sort of all-inclusive.
There will be no hysterical dancing
Story and Photos by Julie Hatfield
The monkeys are
quiet here.
on the beach to a megaphone blast
of music or public outdoor parties
through the night at this resort. The
only loud music you’ll hear is if you
choose it by signing on to one of the
Chic Cabaret Show and Restaurant
6
The jogging path around the hotel complex
So are the lemurs, the flamingos, and the crocodiles. No
traffic sounds or sirens break the silence, except for an
occasional bird song or lap of waves against the shore.
This is not the Cancun of cruise ship passengers and
shopkeepers shouting about their wares, or policia sirens
of vehicles working crime stops in that city.
thrice-weekly, three-hour shows.
These include a multi-course dinner
with energetic entertainment from
professional singers and dancers and
Cirque-du-Soliel-style rope climbers,
in a sound-proof, enclosed theater.
Some of the private cabanas.
7

The infinity pool, one of many swimming pools.
A "floating breakfast" delivered by the breakfast butler to
your private suite with swimming pool
ou can dine one night in a Thai
restaurant, another in a Japanese sushi
and teppanyaki establishment, and a third
in an Italian trattoria. Or you can have one of
the most romantic dinners ever conceived in
a resort: a candlelit meal set up in a cenote, the
latter a natural limestone sinkhole that exposes
groundwater. The dinner is set upon a table and
delivered to you course by course, followed by — if you
wish — a private swim right there by yourselves.
Other swims can be done in the lovely infinity pools,
which have waterproof chaise lounges for your complete
in-the-water relaxation, or you can do laps in the
saltwater pool next to the ocean. You can take a fun spin
course in the infinity pool, which is much easier biking
than on land.
Some of the more luxurious suites have their own pools,
and for these, a breakfast butler can bring your breakfast
on a tray and set it up in the pool, — they call it a
“floating breakfast,” — scattering everything with rose
petals for more romance.
An immense hydrotherapy spa uses water for treatments
that relax and rejuvenate the body, including saunas,
hydromassage tubs, hot and cold tubs, swan-neck
massaging showers, and a calm, winding river. As we
were massaged by the swan-neck shower the attendant
brought us an icy cold mango smoothie, the perfect
drink after all of these treatments, which can continue
on if you wish, to regular massages, facials, and the like.
he buffet restaurants have more items
than most, and they are more luxurious;
From Capricho Restaurant, a breakfast
of Huevos Motulenos, the Yucatan version
of huevos rancheros, is added to the huge
selection of fruits and beverages, meats, and
cheeses. And a buffet choice at Helios Restaurant
offers Taco Al Pastor, seasoned pork with “annatto”
spice made from achiote seeds and pineapple sauce,
or mojito salmon with vegetables and mint and lemon
chutney, or sea bass with hummus, tapenade and
eggplant paella, or Caesar salad with a quail egg. Of
the many nighttime dinner restaurants, El Gaucho
Argentinian steak house was our favorite. The chef
made a most delicate and tasty ribeye steak and
served it with a crisp green salad, creamy spinach,
and rolls with deep-fried battered Camembert cheese
with tomato marmalade. Wherever you turn, a bar
or waiter is offering a fruit drink with your favorite
alcohol in it or creating one that you’ve not known
before.
There is no need to leave the complex during your
whole stay, as between the four hotels you can enjoy a
variety of water sports right here. Gift shops are not in
your face; there is a small jewelry shop hidden well in
the back of the lobby of TRS Yucatan hotel. Quiet golf
carts and vans shuttle guests silently to and from their
cabanas to all of the activities.
And, sorry Mexico, but thankfully, nowhere can the
sound of a mariachi band be heard.
The sushi appetizer display at a Japanese
restaurant, one of 21 ethnically different restaurants
One of numerous buffets
Junior Suite garden room
The main reception area.
Chic Cabaret show and restaurant, a
Las Vegas-style three-hour dinner show
The cocktail mermaid
8
9

Story and Photos by
Carrie Dow
View of Hawksnest Bay, Lovango
Cay, and The Windward Passage from
The Windmill Bar’s expansive deck.
View from the ferry boat
in Cruz Bay, St. John.
10
As regular visitors to the US Virgin Island of St. John, we had our share of favorite places. Then two
hurricanes and a global pandemic kept us away for five years. Would things be as we remembered?
NEW RULES
We pulled our rental Jeep into the
dirt parking lot at Skinny Legs, an
infamous Virgin Islands diner, for
a burger and beer. Even before the
hurricanes blew through, the place
looked haggard, however, the promise
of a cheeseburger-in-paradise usually
meant the parking lot next to the
brightly painted shacks that made up
the place was full. We thought we got
lucky. Some people lingering near a
truck and trailer said otherwise.
“They’re not open,” a woman called
out. “They’re closed on Sundays.” Our
hunger tinged with disappointment;
it was a lesson learned as we got
reacquainted with St. John.
St. John was one of several Caribbean
islands severely damaged when
Hurricanes Irma and Maria crashed
through in September 2017. The
Westin St. John Resort, which we’ve
been visiting for over a decade, was so
badly damaged that it took two years
to rebuild. When the resort – and most
of the island – reopened in Christmas
2019, a deadly virus paused what should
have been a joyful reunion. How did the
island change?
OLD FRIENDS,
NEW PURPOSE
After receiving the news about Skinny
Legs, I noticed a logo on the group’s
trailer – St. John Wildlife Rehabilitation
– and asked the woman about it. A
smile crossed her face as she said her
name was Pam and along with her
friend Phyllis and their husbands, they
ran the island’s only wildlife rehabilitation
organization. She said they had spent the
morning corralling, tagging, and giving
deworming medication to some of the island’s
wild donkeys.
We loved seeing the wild donkeys around
the island and were relieved they survived
the storms. For years a landscaper at Caneel
Bay Resort cared for them, but Pam said
that resort didn’t rebuild, so he didn’t return.
Both Pam and Phyllis had worked in wildlife
rehabilitation separately for decades – Pam
with small mammals and Phyllis with birds.
When a friend expressed concerns about
the donkeys, they combined their resources.
Despite their experience, however, neither
knew anything about equines, so they
contacted a donkey rescue in Texas for help.
“This was our first time doing [deworming
and tagging] on our own,” Pam said beaming.
BIG TURTLE,
BIGGER VIEW
One morning we drove to the
island’s less-visited East End to
Hansen’s Bay Beach. Thalia, whose
family has owned the beach since
the 1700s, greeted us as we pulled
into the parking area.
“It’s a $10 per person suggested
donation,” she said while pointing
to where we should park. I asked
if she had paddleboard rentals.
“Yes,” she replied. “Twenty dollars
a day for a kayak and $15 a day for
a paddle board.” Only $15 a DAY,
I thought. Most places would
charge $15 for 30 minutes.
After putting money in a big blue
donation box, I hauled a bright
green paddle board into the calm,
clear water. Some kids swimming
nearby started giggling and calling
to their families on shore.
“There’s a turtle!”
I circled around the kids hoping to catch
a glimpse. From previous visits, I knew
St. John’s bays were filled with little green
and brown loggerhead turtles and would
often see a half dozen or so snacking on
sea grass along the bottom. However,
this turtle was a leatherback and it was
massive with two large neon green eels
hitched to its back. It surfaced between
me and the kids taking two audible
breaths before diving under. The kids
(and me in my head) squealed in delight.
After a few hours of rotating between
swimming, paddling, and relaxing in
the provided lounge chairs, we packed
up and returned the board to Thalia.
We admired her outdoor “office,” which
consisted of a set of cushion-covered
lounge chairs under a canopy that she
shared with her cousin and rescue dog
Dee-o-gee. The hurricanes still haunted
her.
“The hurricanes spawned tornadoes
and took everything out. Debris
blocking the road,” she said somberly.
“It took three days before people with
chainsaws came through.”
Driving back, we spotted a sign
on Centerline Road advertising
a new place called The Windmill
Bar. Curious, we turned into a
long driveway, passing the ruins of
Susannaberg Plantation, one of St.
John’s historic sugar mills. Perched
on the hilltop known as Neptune’s
Lookout, was a small pub connected
to an expansive deck with spectacular
views overlooking Hawksnest Bay,
Lovango Cay, and the Windward
Passage. The afternoon slowed to
a crawl as we watched white boats
maneuver on the deep blue water while
we sipped cans of locally made Island
Summer ale in between bites of mahimahi
sandwiches. We’ll be adding this
to our list of favorites.
11

The beach and bay at the
bottom of the Reef Bay Trail.
View of the calm, clear waters
at Hansen’s Bay on St. John’s
Inside the pub at The Windmill Bar.
A glass of cold draft craft beer
at St. John Brewers Tap Room.
ALL GROWN UP
WHAT’S BREW?
The Windmill Bar is a small pub, but
with an expansive deck.
We hadn’t hiked Reef Bay Trail since our first visit in 2005. One of the
island’s longer trails, it traverses a large swath of Virgin Islands National
Park beginning near the top of Bordeaux Mountain and running over
two miles downhill to the Reef Bay Sugar Mill ruins and beach. Unlike
our first hike, which was drenched in rain, the day’s sunshine made this
trip significantly hotter. Fortunately, the beautiful bay at the bottom
provided cooling relief before the long slog back uphill. Near the trail’s
halfway point we revisited a short spur leading to ancient petroglyphs.
Carved by the Taino, the Caribbean’s indigenous people, they are believed
to be between 700-1000 years old, hugging the edge of a small rainfall-fed
pool. Unfortunately, the lack of rain dried up the pool’s tropical waterfall.
Another favorite watering hole is St. John Brewers in the island’s
main port of Cruz Bay. We’ve been drinking their craft beers since
they opened the Tap Room in 2006. After following their storm
recovery online, I was thrilled to finally sip a Liquid Sunshine
Belgian-style ale in person at their Mongoose Junction location while
chatting with owner Kevin Chipman. Although the hurricanes were
devastating, Kevin and his business partner Chirag Vyas used the
recovery to make needed upgrades. Notably, moving their brewing
equipment from a shipping container in the parking lot up to the
building’s third floor. Kevin took us up a spiral staircase to show us
how they did it.
View of the bay at the Westin
St. John resort at sunset.
Skinny Legs’ popular burger with
pepperjack cheese.
Artwork showing Hope on display at
12
a house in Cruz Bay.
After the hike, we returned to Coral Bay for our long-awaited lunch at
Skinny Legs. Sinking our teeth into juicy cheeseburgers, we reminisced
about previous lunches. Our first was after a horseback ride up the
Johnny Horn Trail on the hill that rises above the town. In 2010 we
inhaled our burgers after running the 8 Tuff Miles race from Cruz Bay to
Coral Bay. As we reminisced, I watched the cook as she flipped burgers
on the griddle near the bar and it reminded me of another visit. The
grade school next door had let out and several kids came in. The cook
served them sodas. One young boy hopped up on a bar stool and while
his friends went outside to play, he laid his head on the bar and fell
asleep. Our server said it was the cook’s son and he looked so sweet that
I took a photo. Realizing it was the same woman, I waved the cook over.
Startled, she approached cautiously and I can’t imagine what she thought
when I said I had a photo of her son from ten years ago.
“My son?” she asked. “Which one?” I said I didn’t know which one.
Laughing she said my story was interesting because her boys were now 17
and 19. I promised to email her the photo when we returned home.
“We cut a hole here,” he said pointing to a stone wall with a dark
square seam. Then a forklift hoisted each piece of equipment to the
opening. He said a new boil tank sustained some scratches, but they
now have more capacity to brew more beer. While the hurricanes
turned into an opportunity, COVID proved detrimental because
their business depended on tourists like us. But like everyone we
talked to on St. John, they made it work. He said it was about getting
creative and helping your neighbors. He mentioned that after the
hurricanes, they gave away beer on Friday nights to residents and
first responders.
“There was no sense in letting it go to waste when we could be
drinking it,” he laughed. While he didn’t miss destruction, he missed
those gatherings, especially when COVID hit.
Sure, some things on St. John had changed. But hanging out with
people over a few drinks, it was like we never left.
SIDEBAR
When temperatures drop on the mainland, things
heat up on St. John. Getting back to normal means
these events will be in full swing in the winter.
DECEMBER
Ugly Sweater Party at the Tap Room
The St. John All-Island Holiday Party at Mongoose Junction
Old Year’s Eve at The Beach Bar
JANUARY
St. John Animal Care Center annual gala
FEBRUARY
Friends of Virgin Islands National Park annual gala
8 Tuff Miles road race (this event is FREE)
MARCH
Virgin Island Jam Fest, three-day music festival at
The Windmill Bar
13

Springtime Blossoms in the
New River Gorge
America’s
Newest National Park
Story and Photos by
Sarah Jaquay
here are all-season reasons to roam
among the Northern Appalachians in
W.Va. But springtime has its own special
allure: the riotous blooming shrubs known
as Mountain Laurel and Rhododendrons
(they are different) scattered among the velvet
green peaks. It usually happens in May and
June. My husband and I were fortunate witnesses to the
bursting white and lavender blossoms last May (2022)
when we were on a mission to visit America’s newest
National Park, New River Gorge National Park & Preserve
(NRGNP.)
The New River Gorge is slightly more than an hour
southeast of Charleston, W.Va. and easily accessed from
Interstate 77, a major north-south artery running from
Cleveland, Ohio to Columbia, South Carolina. The Gorge
has long attracted outdoor enthusiasts seeking adventures
along the banks of one of the nation’s oldest rivers: gonzo
whitewater rafters, rock climbers, and base jumpers on
Bridge Day every October. The New River Gorge Bridge
is one of the highest and longest single-span arch bridges
in the world. So it’s been a magnet for daredevils since its
completion in 1977. The recent designation (December
27, 2020) of 73,000 acres in the Gorge as the newest
unit in our fabulous National Park Service system “has
broadened our visitor base considerably. We’re definitely
the destination because we’re the newest national park,”
notes Eve West, Chief of Interpretation & Cultural
Resources at NRGNP.
New River Gorge’s Endless Wall of Nuttall
Sandstone is much harder than regular sandstone
and provides a stunning border for the Gorge.
Diamond Point Overlook in
West Virginia's New River Gorge
National Park provides
spectacular views of the Gorge.
14
Wild purple and lavender rhododendrons blossom
throughout the New River Gorge in May and June. AOTG
Mountain Laurel is native to W. Va. and blooms in the
New River Gorge every June. AOTG
15

had the chance
to check out our
newest national
park after a
sedentary, snowy
winter and was eager
to see what adventures
might be suitable for someone too
long in the tooth to run class 4 and
16
Canyon Falls pool at
Adventures on the
Gorge Resort boasts
spectacular views of
the New River Gorge
Bridge. AOTG
Canyon Falls pool at Adventures on the
Gorge Resort offers sylvan sunsets with
views of the New River Gorge Bridge.
5 rapids (the most challenging), go rock
climbing or navigate aerial obstacle
courses. Fortunately, one of New River
Gorge’s premiere resorts, Adventures on
the Gorge (AOTG), offers adventures
for all ages with plenty of amenities
for apres activities. The Resort offers
accommodations that range from
luxury cabins and “glamping” tents to
rustic cabins and campgrounds. Most
New River Gorge visitors I know are
hardcore campers who own lots of
outdoor survival gear. I love exploring
outside all day before retiring
somewhere with hot showers, a good
mattress, dining options, and adult
beverages. Adventures on the Gorge
checked all those boxes and more.
Adventures on the Gorge resort offers accommodations
ranging from rustic and luxury cabins to “glamping tents”
like this one. AOTG
fter a
five-hour
drive, we
settled into
one of AOTG’s
comfortable
Sunnyside cabins
and began looking for sustenance. It
was our good fortune that Mondays at
Chetty’s Pub are wing night and they
offer live acoustic music in an open-air
pavilion overlooking the Gorge. Chetty’s
is located in a stunning woodland setting.
The Resort’s designers took advantage of
the natural beauty by building along the
edge where guests can soak in views of
the iconic bridge and sylvan sunsets. After
indulging in our fair share of wings, we
strolled down to the pavilion to listen to
the dulcet tones of a guitar player and folk
singer.
I was concerned about being able to keep
up on a three-hour guided mountain hike
and a flat-water kayaking adventure I’d
signed up for before arriving at the Resort.
I was certain I’d be the first one to succumb
to “whinothermia,” the condition where
someone unprepared, has the wrong gear
or has no water starts whining, “I’m too
cold, too hot or thirsty--can you carry my
stuff?” I didn’t want to be that person.
Once I met my genial hiking guide, Rocky
MacDonald, I was relieved immediately.
He’s an experienced climber, hiker, rafting
guide, and very chill. “Whatever pace you
want is fine,” he said and he meant it. The
weather was ideal; the trail to Diamond
Point Overlook wasn’t crowded (although
rangers warn this segment of the Endless
Wall Trail can be quite populated in
summer.) Along the trail, we saw W. Va.’s
ubiquitous wild-growing rhododendrons
(the state flower) and Mountain Laurel
everywhere. When we reached Diamond
Point, the sweeping views of the Gorge and
the “Endless Wall” of Nuttall Sandstone (a
much harder variety that’s mostly quartz)
made the leisurely climb worth it.
New River Gorge’s Endless Wall of Nuttall Sandstone is much harder than
regular sandstone and provides a stunning border for the Gorge.
Genial guide Rocky MacDonald leads group hikes for guests of
Adventures on the Gorge resort.
17

W. Va.’s New River Gorge has long attracted gonzo
adventurers, including base jumpers off the New River
Gorge Bridge on Bridge Day every October. AOTG
Adventures on the Gorge
offers guests leisurely
kayaking surrounded by
palisades and promontories at
Summersville Lake. AOTG
he next day
we drove to the
nearby Canyon
Rim Visitors Center.
It’s a great place to
plan your park visit.
Ranger West suggests 3-5
days for first-time visitors because
“the park is so spread out.” She
recommends starting with the
exhibits and orientation film (and
don’t miss the overlook behind the
Center and easy hike down to views
of the Bridge) and then driving
along the Fayette Station Road to
explore the region’s coal mining and
railroad legacy. Visitors can access a
narrated tour of the drive via the NPS
app. West also recommends stopping
at the Grandview Visitors Center to
experience the deepest part of the
Gorge. One of her favorite scenic drives
is the road to Sandstone Falls at the
southern end of the park. There are
many places to stay around the historic
town of Hinton, including Airbnb's
and Pipestem State Park. With over
100 miles of trails, it’s hard to choose
but West suggests the Grandview Rim
Trail because it “has some phenomenal
views with three overlooks and the one
with the highest vertical distance.”
The flat-water kayaking adventure
at Summersville Lake went well too.
My biggest challenge is not getting
wet/falling in during transfers in and
out of the kayak. The Resort’s guides
made sure everyone’s transfer went
smoothly. As we paddled around the
massive lake surrounded by palisades
and promontories of Nuttall Sandstone,
rock climbers waved and gave us
thumbs up, part of an unspoken code
outdoor enthusiasts use to indicate: No
matter what you watched on Netflix this
winter, does anything beat this?
he short answer is no. To be
sure, The New River Gorge
National Park & Preserve and its
premiere resort, Adventures on the
Gorge, offer year-round recreation
and creature comforts; but if you
want to see the Northern Appalachians
bedecked in purple, white, and lavender
blossoms, springtime is the best time to be there.
For more information see:
https://www.nps.gov/neri/index.htm
https://adventuresonthegorge.com
This Baby Boomer reporter celebrates at the end of a twohour
hike to Diamond Point Overlook in the New River Gorge.
Rocky MacDonald
18
19

J
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O-RYORI BENTO: Designed to be eaten with the eyes first, Japanese cuisine follows shojin ryori
(vegetarian Buddhist temple fare) guidelines of putting emphasis on food with five different colors.
CHERRY BLOSSOMS:This wild species of cherry tree, native to Japan and known as Edo Higan with its pinkish-white
colored flowers is said to live the longest (over 1000 years).
20
B
o
x
e
d
H
a
p
p
i
n
e
s
s
Written and photographed by Daniele Auvray
BENTO BOX: With the allure of a precious
gift wrapped in “furoshiki”, this cardboard
bento box picks one’s curiosity, immediately
enticing to have a look inside.
BOXED LUNCH: Teriyaki beef is served
on rice, with maitake mushrooms, shishito
green peppers and shredded leeks,
neatly arranged in a rectangular box.
SAKANA BENTO: As in the past, certain tastes such as salty, sour, sweet, bitter or delicate live on
today. Salty as the grilled mackerel or seafood paste (kamaboko),sweet as the red beans, sour as
the pickled vegetables, and delicate such as a simmered daikon.
erhaps it goes back to our
childhood, when we were
happy with very little
things, like tiny boxes
and the secrets we thought
we might uncover in those
mysterious containers. A box was
also very often a gift given to us by
someone very dear, like our mother
or father, a brother or a sister. Seeing the
food prepared and neatly arranged in
each compartment of a bento box, apart
from the fact that it also looks delicious,
immediately re-awaken those fond
memories.
“Bento” refers to a quick, convenient,
and easily affordable meal. But what was
started long ago, out of sheer necessity
in Japan, has nowadays evolved into
quite a trendy affair. Yet there is much
more to this very popular fast food than
what meets the eye. Looking at the true
meaning behind what seems obvious at
first glance is particularly rewarding.
To start with, Japan has a long and rich
history of bento. It is said to have first
appeared in its most basic form during
the Kamakura period (1185-1333) when
the boxes were only meant to carry rice.
It was during the late 16th century that
the distinct, lacquered, wooden box
was developed. The start of the Edo
period (1603-1868) ushered in an era
of peace and prosperity during which
people began going on leisure trips
around the country which led to a big
evolution in bento.
It became common to carry food in
bento boxes for outdoor activities or
even to the theater. As kabuki theater
became increasingly popular around
the 18th century, performances
could last an entire day and theaters
started providing hungry audiences
KABUKI-ZA THEATER: Kabuki-za is the
main theater in Tokyo for kabuki with daily
shows. Set in the upmarket Ginza district
and first built in 1889, it has since then
been reconstructed four times. The latest
was in 2013, when it was flanked by a
29-story high-rise tower that emerged from
out of it.
with ready-made meals in bento
boxes. It soon became a trend to dine
on luxurious “Makunouchi” bento at
kabuki shows. The name is derived
from the Japanese word “Maku” or
curtain, as it was typically eaten as the
curtain was drawn after the first act
of a play. Foods that were easily and
quickly swallowed were featured since
they were meant to be eaten during
intermissions. They would include a
wide variety of ingredients such as
grilled rice balls, an omelet, a slice of
fish paste, broiled tofu, or even sushi.
KABUKI PLAY: Kabuki is a stylized
form of Japanese theater known for
its spectacular drama and intricate
makeup worn by actors as depicted
in this Ukiyo-e by Utagawa kunisada
(1786-1865).
9

SHINJUKU GYOEN HANAMI: A quintessential Japanese
experience. Gathering under sakura trees with bento among
colleagues, on the manicured lawn of the shinjuku gyoen park,
is a unique moment that will be treasured forever.
“HINOMARU” BENTO: With a base made out of white rice, topped
with a salted red pickle in the center, this bento is mimicking the
Japanese flag, but it is also set with additional delicious bites.
ven today, bento features a great
variety of prepared food still known
as “Makunouchi” bento. In the old
days, this word signified a celebratory
event and tradition which has been
carefully preserved to this day. It
marked the occasion of people breaking
their daily routines and setting off to
have a fun day out. This happened
especially during cherry blossom viewing
parties which ultimately led to the creation of many
different types of bento in Japan. In those early
days, a bento for a cherry blossom viewing party
would have contained a variety of foods considered
luxuries, such as seabreams, sweet Japanese apricots,
bracken-fern sprouts, hijiki seaweed, and other
delicacies.
While there are no specific guidelines for what goes
into a bento box, there are several different types
that are synonymous with specific events, themes,
or locations. During the Meiji period (1868-1912),
and as a way to modernize Japan, the government
promoted creating railways throughout Japan.
This is when “Eki-ben” (station bento) were sold at
stations for passengers on trains to eat, and for each
region to attract tourists to their city.
ento has a simple elegance
and a beauty that instantly
attracts you to it. And
that must be the feeling
conveyed by that bento
meal. A Japanese meal
is a lot like a haiku.
Its form is simple and
structured, yet within that
ordered framework, the food is carefully
balanced and full of reverence for the
beauty of the natural world. A typical
meal still centers around rice, soup,
and pickled vegetables, as it has for
centuries. Dishes are still classified as
they were in the early days of “shojin
ryori” (Buddhist temple food), not by
their main ingredients but by how they
are prepared. “Shojin ryori” makes full
use of seasons and values the taste of
each region. The Japanese have always
felt in awe of nature, offering prayers
to divinities and expressing gratitude
through festivals at shrines.
From the Rising Sun Flag lunch box or
“Hinomaru” bento to the lovingly
prepared wife’s lunch, the O-bento
is a microcosm of Japanese cuisine.
Since only small portions of each
food are included, and a wellbalanced
variety of foods is necessary,
preparing a proper o-bento can be a
time-consuming ritual. It definitely
requires much dedication, great care,
and a lot of love.
As with almost all Japanese dishes,
attention to detail and an attractive
presentation are paramount. In Japan
bento is viewed as an art form that
many Japanese people aim to perfect.
As springtime rolls around each year,
the “Sakura Matsuri” (cherry blossom
festival), a centuries-old celebration,
occurs and people gather in parks,
public gardens, and other popular
viewing spots to gaze at the flowering
blossoms, a perfect excuse for parties
and picnics. Oftentimes, offices
will hold large welcome gatherings
ZOJOJI TEMPLE MAIN GATE: Zojoji
temple is an oasis of calm and serenity
right in the middle of central Tokyo. Its main
gate:”Sangedatsumon “(1622) with its two
storied wooden building (69 feet) is the oldest
original structure to have survived WWII.
for their employees. There is plenty of
singing and music along with the feast
of food, and in many places, “hanami”
celebrations will spill over into the
evening. When the sun has gone down,
you can see paper lanterns hanging
in tree branches and lighting up the
“Yozakura” (night sakura).
Hanami, anyone?
NIKU BENTO: For Japanese chefs a perfectly balanced meal
should always include:”something from the mountains and
something from the sea “. The mountain being represented, by a
range of seasonal vegetables together with the staple, rice and
meat, while the sea is featured by fish or seafood products.
FISH ROE BENTO: The classic Makunouchi bento as shown
here is an all in one lunch box with separate compartments for
different morsels.
22
Initially, bento was developed so that when people
were traveling, they could carry cooked food,
consisting of a variety of ingredients, packed
into a single container. But in the middle of the
20th century, a different style of bento emerged.
Elaborate kaiseki cuisine began to be combined with
the convenience of a bento. Kaiseki cuisine usually
introduced dishes one by one, but they began to be
presented all at once in an elegant manner, and with
the same principles, just in a compact form.
Both bento and kaiseki are based on the same
fundamentals of Japanese cuisine: five tastes (sweet,
sour, salty, bitter, and umami), five colors (green,
yellow, red, black, and white), and the five cooking
techniques (grilling, simmering, steaming, frying,
or raw), and they offer a variety of flavors too.
Japanese cooks can create an astonishingly varied
and subtle range of tastes from a surprisingly small
array of ingredients and seasonings. The most
common of these are soy sauce, mirin (sweet rice
wine), miso, seaweed, sesame seeds, ginger, rice
vinegar, and wasabi (Japanese horseradish).
ZOJOJI TEMPLE HANAMI: Shiba park is built around the temple, with the
Tokyo tower standing beside it. It attracts a huge crowd of visitors all year
round, even more so during “hanami” season. The Japanese have always felt
in awe of nature, offering prayers to divinities and expressing gratitude through
festivals at shrines.
CELEBRATING HANAMI Having a picnic
and enjoying a bento, on the ground of Zojoji
temple in Tokyo, under the cherry trees as
falling petals gracefully dance along.
23

There are currently three cruise ship piers in Cozumel that can accommodate up to seven cruise ships a
day. Cozumel is currently the fourth busiest cruise ship port in the World.
A diver gets a close look at several bluestriped
grunts that seem almost indifferent
to her presence. (Yucab Reef).
Diving Cozumel
Story and Photos by Steve Rosenberg
Like countless other divers, my first international
warm-water scuba trip was to Cozumel, Mexico.
In 1961, well-known Lunderwater explorer Jacques
Cousteau spent some time in Cozumel and fell in
love with Palancar Reef, putting Cozumel on the
map as the place to dive.
The Mexican Island of Cozumel is only 32.5 miles
long and 8.7 miles wide. The highest elevation is
only 45 feet above sea level. Cozumel is about 36
miles south of Cancun and is separated from the
Yucatan mainland by a 12-mile-wide channel.
The island is well known for exceptionally clear
visibility on the reefs and for its effortless current
diving. The lush reefs on the southwestern end
of the island offer incredible drop-offs, pinnacles
and labyrinths with interconnecting caves and
tunnels. Photographers and video enthusiasts will
find more friendly, 'easy to shoot' reef fishes, eels
and invertebrates than in any other Caribbean
island destination.
24
Map of the Location of Cozumel © Steve Rosenberg
(From Dive and Travel Cozumel)
25

The only town of any size on the
island is centrally located San
L
Miguel, which is home to almost
all of Cozumel's approximate
115,000 residents. There are
over 150 resorts and hotels in
Cozumel, almost all of which
are scattered up and down the
western coast of the island. A
walking tour of the downtown
area is a great way to spend some
time shopping, eating, drinking,
and taking in the local culture.
The main downtown Area of
Cozumel spans approximately 5
blocks. However, the southern,
northern, and eastern parts of
the island are rarely visited by
tourists. These, along with the
central areas of Cozumel are the
less developed portions of the
island that have been set aside as
protected areas.
Located 1 mile south of San Miguel,
it's an easy walk to check out the
L
many shops and restaurants. There
are many excellent restaurants in
town. Among my personal favorites
are Guido's on the waterfront,
Cafe Mission which is about eight
blocks back in town, Buccano's and
Sal de Mar both excellent seafood
restaurants, and Sorrisi a superb
Italian Restaurant. You might also
try El Pique, which has 1$ tacos that
are a favorite with the locals.
Most visitors take a break from
diving and relaxing to spend at least
a few hours or more shopping and
enjoying the local fare. Cozumel is
a duty-free port and therefore offers
many bargains. Of course, some of
the best deals are on local Mexican
handicrafts, silver jewelry, and
semi-precious stones.
Café Mission is just one of many fine restaurants on the island of Cozumel.
26
Visiting 'off-the-beaten path'
parts of the island, such as the
Punta Sur Ecological Park in
the south, the San Gervasio
archaeological site, the remote
east side of the island, and
Columbia Lagoon in the south
will leave visitors amazed as
to the other activities and
attractions that Cozumel has to
offer. Here tourists may see and
experience rare birds, crocodiles,
lighthouses, historic ruins, and
beautiful scenic vistas.
To experience the true flavor of
Cozumel, I would recommend
at least a one-week stay on
the island at one of the many
fabulous resorts and hotels that
Cozumel has to offer. On this
trip, I returned for a visit to one
of my favorite 'all-inclusive' dive
resorts, Scuba Club Cozumel,
which was actually built in 1976
as Cozumel's first dedicated
diver's resort.
The Town of San Miguel is the commercial Hub of Cozumel and home to
almost all of approximately 110,000 residents that live on the island.
Large Roseate Spoonbills are among the
beautiful birds that can be found in Colombia
Lagoon, located at Punta Sur on the
south end of the island.
There is an observation platform at Columbia
Lagoon where visitors can get closeup
looks at the resident crocodiles.
The flavor of the resort is the
same today as when it was built.
It offers 60 air-conditioned
oceanfront rooms, each with its
own private balcony. The resort is
built right on the water and offers
a freshwater swimming pool, an
on-site restaurant, free Wi-Fi, and
a five-star dive center. The rooms
are all just a short distance from
the resort's private dock. A fleet of
seven custom dive boats picks up
divers at the dock and transports
them quickly to dive sites. Among
the most endearing things about
this Resort Hotel is that it has
retained its quaint charm from the
days it was first constructed. Many
of the professional and personable
dive guides, office personnel, and
restaurant staff that I have come
to know, have worked at the resort
for over twenty years and have
become friends.
After a day of diving it is fun to head to town for a beverage and perhaps
toast the exciting events of the day.
27

Scuba Club Cozumel has a fleet of seven custom dive boats that whisk divers
to dive sites that sit just offshore along Cozumel’s western coast
A Hawksbill Sea Turtle tries to catch a leisurely meal of one of
his favorite sponges, when an uninvited reef gang of angelfish
decide to join him for dinner (Paso Del Cedral Reef).
Yucab Reef offers close interactions with
colorful reef fishes. (Yucab Reef).
Divers will encounter Hawksbill Sea Turtles
on many of the dive sites. (Palancar)
28
AAlmost all of the diving in Cozumel
is done along the leeward western
shore of the island, which faces the
Yucatán mainland. Cozumel always
has offshore currents, the force
and direction of which varies daily.
Almost all boat diving in Cozumel
is drift diving. The Guiana current,
which runs in a northerly direction,
sweeps up along the coastline of
Cozumel producing currents of
variable strength. Most of the time,
these currents move from south to
north. The speed of the currents
is unpredictable, although when
you become accustomed to drift
diving, you will find that this type of
diving is almost effortless. When the
dive boat arrives at a dive site, the
guide will give a short dive briefing,
including a short description of the
site, highlights of things that divers
may encounter, and the maximum
depth and bottom time for the group.
After the guide jumps in and confirms
the direction of the current, all of the
divers in that group enter the water at
the same time and meet the guide on
the sandy bottom.
The majority of the dive sites are
located along the southwest shoreline
of Cozumel and they can roughly be
categorized according to their depths,
either as shallow reefs, mid-depth
reefs, and deep reefs. For the most part,
the deeper reefs, such as Punta Sur,
Maracaibo, Columbia, and Palancar,
are located along the edge of a drop-off
that runs parallel to the shoreline and
they are at the south end of the island.
The majority of the other reefs can be
referred to as medium-deep reefs, with
depths between 30 and 70 feet. There
are a few reefs, such as Paradise, Los
Pecios, and Columbia Gardens that are
considered strictly shallow reefs and
make good second dives after diving
deeper areas on the first dive of twotank
dive trips.
As I stepped off the plane on this
trip, a refreshing tropical breeze and
an impossibly blue sky dotted with
cottony white clouds greeted me in
Cozumel. After being cooped up in
a plane, albeit a short two-hour hop
from Dallas, it was time to put on my
sunglasses and get to the resort so I could
get wet. Arriving in midafternoon, there
was still plenty of time to grab a quick
lunch, say 'hello' to my friends at the
resort, set up my dive gear, sign up for the
next day's diving, and jump off the pier
for a quick dive along the shoreline. Even
the shallow diving just offshore always
delivers incredible interactions with
moray eels, octopus, colorful reef fish,
and a plethora of other creatures waiting
to grab my attention. This time was no
exception. I took some quick images of a
small puffer, overflowing with personality,
to knock the cobwebs out of my camera
and warm up my shutter finger for the
next day's diving.
Resorts that offer week-long dive packages
try to keep the same group together
throughout the course of the week so
that everyone will get to experience as
many different sites as possible. It is also
a standard practice that the less difficult
dives are made at the beginning of the
week, putting off the more advanced dives
until later on. Scuba Club Cozumel, as
with most of the dive operations, offers
two-tank boat dives in the mornings.
This eight inch long Balloon
Puffer was photographed
in shallow water just off the
Scuba Club Resort.
A large green moray eel
resides in the interior of the
C-53 Wreck. This eel will
sometimes approach divers as
they make their way through
the interior. (C-53 Wreck).
This large nurse shark was discovered on a sandy area
inside a swim-through at (Santa Rosa Reef).
The next day found us at Palancar Caves, one of four
sections of the famed Palancar Reef. The broad reef
structure of Palancar Caves is honeycombed with an
extensive network of caves, tunnels, and pinnacles with
intermittent sand slopes and channels. Small pinnacles
averaging 30 to 40 feet in height are spaced at regular
intervals along the outside edge of the reef. Divers will
find a few beautiful large, red deep-water gorgonian
sea fans decorating these pinnacles. Hawksbill Turtles
are often encountered in this area, and there are also a
large number of unusual fishes here including trunkfish,
cowfish, pufferfish, spotted drums, and filefish. The
outer edge of the reef in this area drops precipitously to
a steeply sloping sand and rubble drop-off in a depth of
about 100 feet. Most dive operations set maximum depth
limits to 90 feet in this area.
29

Locals have established a new dive site called Los Pecios
offshore from the northern section of San Miguel. This wreck
is one of two that were sunk to create part of an artificial reef.
A popular dive site is the ship wreck C-53 Felipe Xicotencatl,
a World War II minesweeper that sits upright in 80 feet of
water just offshore from Chancanaab Park.
A few days later we dove one of Cozumel's
most popular dives, the C-53 Felipe
A
Xicotencatl shipwreck, which was originally
a World War II Minesweeper. It now lies just
offshore from Chancanaab Park, protected
from strong currents. The wreck sits upright
on the sand in 70 feet of water. Large openings
have been cut from her sides and the interior
has been cleared of most sharp metal
obstructions, making the wreck fairly easy to
penetrate and swim through. On the inside, we
chanced upon a large green moray eel along
with a school of glassy sweepers on the interior
of the wreck. There are a number of other
residents that frequent the wreck including a
5-foot barracuda, a small school of Horse-eye
jacks, and pairs of large angelfish.
One of my favorite dives in Cozumel is Paso
Del Cedral (Cedar Pass). This medium-deep
site has two sections, divided in half by an
expanse of sand. The first section is comprised
of a flat plateau at a depth of about 50 feet. The
topography of this first section is uninteresting,
but the variety and abundance of marine
life, especially large reef fish are amazing.
The site almost always delivers large rainbow
parrotfish, queen triggerfish guarding their
nests, sea turtles competing with angelfish over
meals of delicious sponges, and pairs of whitespotted
filefish. For photographers, this area
is difficult because you are drawn in so many
directions at the same time. The second section
of the reef has a higher profile and is literally
a latticework of caves, tunnels, and swimthroughs.
In the interior of the reef, divers will
always encounter schools of porkfish, beautiful
reef fish with blue and yellow stripes, and black
vertical bars. Divers may also encounter nurse
sharks, large lobsters, green morays, and an
occasional loggerhead turtle.
We also had a couple of very interesting dives at
Yucab Reef, a medium-deep, high-profile reef where
we ran into currents running in opposite directions
at the same time, only at different depths. This reef
has many small schools of reef fish, including grunts,
schoolmasters, and margates, that tuck in next to the
reef to hide during the day. There was a wealth of
colorful reef fish such as cowfish, white-spotted filefish,
and large triggerfish.
Toward the end of the week, we had a couple of
incredible dives on the shallow Paradise Reef. As we
were exploring the shoreside of the reef, amongst
the eel grasses, we found a beautiful red long snout
seahorse that seemed to be indifferent to our presence.
On the other side of the reef, we had multiple
encounters with Cozumel's famed Splendid Toadfish,
which has become synonymous with Cozumel.
Our final dive of the trip was on the newest dive site
in Cozumel. When the third cruise ship pier was built
directly over the northern section of Paradise Reef,
the Cozumel dive community acted with foresight,
transplanting many corals and sponges that would
have been destroyed by the ship traffic, to a new dive
site call Los Pecios. At this site, artificial reef structures
consisting of large concrete blocks and a couple of
small wrecks have become the new home for these
sponges and corals, transforming what was once an
expanse of sand and rubble into a healthy and vibrant
shallow reef.
Many positive things are happening in Cozumel.
Cozumel's Underwater Marine Park (Arrecifes de
Cozumel National Park) continues to protect those
dive sites that fall within the National Park. In
addition, the National Park has recently adopted a
calendar that closes sections of the reef on a rotating
basis to "protect the reefs from damage or decay." From
my perspective, most of the steps that the Park has
taken have had a profound and positive effect on the
health of the reef environment.
Schools of Porkfish are commonly encountered in the
second section of Paso Del Cedral. (Paso Del Cedral).
A small school of Margates find refuge in a section of the
caves at Palancar Horseshoe. (Palancar Horseshoe).
Small aggregations
of fishes,
such as these
Margates, Grunts
and Snapper, can
be found tucked
along most high
profile reefs.
(Yucab Reef)
Divers take a close look at this
deep-water gorgonian fan coral off
a deep section of Palancar Caves
along southern Cozumel.
30
Splendid Toadfish are one of the beautiful and
unusual reef fish that can be seen around the
shallow reefs, usually peering from their dens on
the west side of the reefs. (Paradise Reef).
Longsnout Seahorses can
often be found in the sea
grasses on the shore side
of shallow reefs, such as
Paradise and Yucab Reefs.
31

Travel Journalist Karen
LeBlanc visits Egypt
during Ramadan for
unique experiences of
Egyptian culture with
celebrations, culinary
creations, decorations,
and design finds that
surface once a year.
Mosque minarets dot the
Cairo Skyline giving Cairo
its nickname as the city of
one thousand minarets.
Cairo is known as the city of one thousand minarets,
mosque towers where prayer callers issue a chant
known as the Adhan.
amadan takes place during the
ninth month of the Muslim lunar
year, commemorating the revelation
of the first verses of the Quran
to the Prophet Muhammad
by the Holy Spirit Gabriel. Specific
dates of the Islamic holy month change yearly
since Ramadan is based on the lunar calendar.
The courtyard of Muhammad Ali Mosque
has a large brass clock tower, a gift
from King Louis Philippe of France to
Muhammad Ali Pasha, who in turn,
gifted France one of two obelisks at the
entrance of the Luxor Temple.
Story and Photos by Karen LeBlanc
Muslims first arrived in Egypt in 640 B.C. and
today, comprise 85% of Egypt’s population, a
demographic that defines the country’s cultural
identity and way of life. The majority of Egypt’s
Muslim population practices the religion of
Islam, which is how Cairo earned its nickname
as the city of one thousand mosque towers,
known as minarets. Before loudspeakers and
technology, callers known as muezzins climbed
up to the mosque minarets to announce calls
to prayer. The Egyptian government started an
initiative to standardize the call to prayer, known
as the Adhan, to reduce noise pollution from
the cacophony of multiple mosques chanting
Adhans simultaneously. In Cairo, many mosques
broadcast a single Adhan in a shared signal.
Old Cairo
n the predawn hours
of my first morning
in Aswan, Egypt, I
woke up to the chants
of a call to prayer
reverberating from
mosque minarets.
It’s Ramadan, the
Muslim holy month of
observance, and the melodic
cadence of these Arabic words
resonated daily, beckoning the
faithful to nearby mosques
for the 5 am prayer. I head to the
window of my cruise ship quarters
to watch the activity below as
Muslims, working outside, unable
to make it to the mosques, pause
to lay blankets, face the direction
of Mecca and pray. This Ramadan
ritual that I feel privileged to
experience is an unintended
benefit of timing my trip in April.
Exploring Egypt during Ramadan
offers a unique experience of
Egyptian culture with celebrations,
culinary creations, decorations, and
design finds that surface once a year.
Ramadan is a month-long religious
observance for Islam, the official religion
of Egypt, requiring the faithful to fast
from sunup to sundown and pray five
times a day. This year, Muslims celebrate
Ramadan from March 22, 2023, through
April 20, 2023, followed by the Eid al Fitr
festival on Friday, April 21, 2023, a feast
with family and loved ones.
Mosque Abi Al-Hajjaj Al-Aqsari in Luxor,
sounding the call to prayer known as “the
Adhan” from its minaret.
During Ramadan, many
mosques broadcast the
adhan at all five prayer
times.
The Citadel of Saladin walls,
a medieval defense fortress
that housed Egypt’s rulers
and state administration.
32
33

During Ramadan, restaurants set up tables outside to
serve free meals to the poor and passersby. The table
is known as “The Merciful Table of Food.”
Caption: Bread seller at Khan el-Khalili Bazaar, carrying
traditional Egyptian flatbread called Baladi.
Old Cairo Mosque & Minarets
The Mosque of Muhammad Ali
Cairo’s historic Islamic quarter, populated with mosques,
churches, and markets, offers an intimate encounter with
the customs and traditions of Ramadan.
Khan el-Khalili Bazaar resides in “Old Cairo,”
an area that earned the UNESCO designation
as a World Heritage Site in 1979.
uring this sacred time, Muslims
conduct charitable giving, or what is
known as “zakat,” gifts of food and
money to the poor that also aim to
purify their wealth and cleanse the
soul. Cities are alive with festive
energy in the streets and stores
as the faithful shop for decorations,
gifts for loved ones, and special ingredients
to prepare the home and meals. “At sunset,
Egyptians will have their Iftar (the Breakfast),
so the streets of big cities, especially Cairo
and Alexandria, will be jammed with traffic
as people try to get home before Iftar, says
Mustafa Seif, Vice President of Cairo Transport
& Touring. As a woman traveling alone in
the Middle East, I wanted the expertise and
security of a reputable tour operator. Cairo
Transport & Touring provided local, Englishspeaking
guides and a dedicated security guard
to accompany my group everywhere.
A visit to Cairo’s historic Islamic quarter,
populated with mosques, churches, and
markets, offers an intimate encounter with the
customs and traditions of Ramadan. Shop the
Khan el-Khalili Bazaar for Ramadan sweets,
treats, and gifts, and stroll Moaez Street, a
pedestrian street next to the bazaar lined with
medieval architecture bustling with locals
and tourists. The area, known as “Old Cairo,”
earned the UNESCO designation as a World
Heritage Site in 1979.
wanted to immerse myself in Ramadan's
spirit fully, so I visited one of Cairo’s
most iconic mosques, the Mohammed
Ali Mosque. The Turkish-style mosque
has twin minarets, the highest in all of
Egypt, each towering 275 feet. It resides
within the walls of The Citadel of Saladin,
a medieval Islamic defense fortress perched
on a hill with panoramic views of the city
skyline. The Muhammed Ali Mosque is known
as the “Alabaster Mosque” for the marble
paneling on its interior and exterior walls.
The central dome radiates natural light,
illuminating the prayer floor below where
we gather with my guide Amir, a practicing
Muslim, to talk about his beliefs. “The point of
Ramadan is to feel the same feelings as poor
people and to appreciate and thank God for
what we have. We fast for self-control and
abstain from bad behavior and desires. You have
to be very spiritual during the fasting hours.
Restaurants invite people to eat for free, and
people waiting in the streets will throw you
food and drink,” says Amir, who was fasting
during our long, action-packed days, often in
sweltering temperatures of 100 degrees or more.
During the fast, Muslims are prohibited from
eating or drinking anything, not even water. If
Amir was hungry or thirsty, he never showed
his discomfort, inspiring my admiration for his
self-discipline and stamina.
The Mosque of Muhammad Ali, located inside the
Citadel of Salah al-Din in Cairo. This mosque is known
as the "Alabaster Mosque", for its marble paneling on
interior and exterior walls.
The interior dome of the Muhammed Ali Mosque,
Cairo, Egypt. Muslims gather underneath the dome
to pray daily at the mosque.
34
35

Amir, my tour guide, gathers us in a circle under the Mosque
dome to chat about Ramadan and his religious beliefs.
“The point of Ramadan is to feel the same feelings as poor
people and to appreciate and thank God for what we have".
Ramadan Decorations for sale at Khan el-Khalili
Bazaar in Old Cairo, Egypt
appreciated Amir’s candid conversation with us
Western tourists about his faith. It’s moments like
these, when we can better understand each other
and find common ground, that remind me why I
travel—when you know more, you fear less about
people and places different from your world.
Travel Journalist Karen LeBlanc shops the Khan el-Khalili
Bazaar for Ramadan sweets, treats, and gifts.
uring Ramadan in Egypt, the faithful use a special greeting,
“Ramadan Kareem,” meaning “Ramadan is Generous,”
spreading cheer and festive generosity. “Ramadan
in Egypt is unique because the atmosphere is like
Christmas in terms of the festive mood and scenery.
There is a generous and positive atmosphere,”
explains Mustafa.
Ramadan Lanterns, known as Fanoos, for sale at
Khan el-Khalili Bazaar in Old Cairo, Egypt
Traditional Egyptian meal served at The Fairmont Hotel,
Nile City, Cairo: beef shawarma platter
Fatteh, traditional Egyptian dish
Later that evening, I strolled the streets to enjoy
the celebratory and friendly atmosphere. I passed
restaurants setting up long Ramadan tables outside,
known as Maedat Al-Rahman, The Merciful Table of
Food, serving free meals to the poor and passersby.
The glow of colorful, ornate lanterns known as Fanoos
illuminate public spaces, stores, restaurants, and homes.
Craftspeople handmake these candle-lit lanterns from
copper or tin with colorful glass and geometric cutouts
referencing Egyptian folklore and Islamic designs.
Fanoos originated centuries ago among practicing
Muslims who carried them to light the way to the
mosque for prayer. Other curious spectacles that caught
my eye were exaggerated Egyptian cartoon characters in
the form of statues and dolls, adding a dose of humor to
the Ramadan decorations.
Experiencing this holy month was perspective-shifting as I
witnessed the best of humanity's many random acts of kindness from
joyful, generous people. As someone seeking meaningful connections
and authentic experiences beyond stereotypical sightseeing, a visit
to Egypt during Ramadan offers a detour from the guidebooks for a
deeper dive into the heart and soul of the culture.
What to know before you go:
As a Western tourist, I had some trepidation about visiting Egypt during
Ramadan. I was concerned that many attractions and establishments
would be closed or keep irregular operating hours. Ramadan does
change the rhythms and daily routines of the Egyptians. Standard
business hours are 9 am to 5 pm daily except Friday, the Egyptian
day of rest, which is the equivalent of our Sunday. During Ramadan,
operating hours change, with many establishments opening an hour
later and closing an hour earlier; however, most major hotels and tourist
attractions keep regular hours. If you travel during Ramadan, check the
operating hours of your intended destination.
Muslim dresses market
As a tourist, I recommend dinner reservations after sunset because
most restaurants will be at full capacity. During Ramadan, people tend
to eat out late, from midnight to sunrise, and many restaurants will stay
open to accommodate late dinners.
During Ramadan, family and friends gather to eat the
Suhoor, consisting of beans, eggs, yogurt, and cheeses.
Popular Ramadan desserts include a syrupy
cheese pie called Kunafa and Kataif, a pancake
or dough filled with nuts or cream.
I invite you to learn more about all Egypt has to offer,
in two new episodes of The Design Tourist
featuring Cairo and the Nile's archeological attractions.
Watch at youtube.com/thedesigntourist.com
An Egyptian shopkeeper sells Fanoos,
which originated to illuminate the way for
Muslims heading to mosques for Ramadan prayers.
36
37

Breathtaking Mission San Jose
A Culinary Trip Through
San Antonio
Story and Photos by Sarah Morgensen
hen you think
of San Antonio,
you may think of The
Alamo, The Riverwalk,
or Six Flags. What you
may not think about is food.
San Antonio is home to worldclass
chefs and award-winning
restaurants. As one of only two
UNESCO Creative Cities of
Gastronomy in the United States,
San Antonio’s food scene is nextlevel.
I think I gained at least 5 pounds
on my visit. And it’s no wonder.
Hungry we were never because we
found unbelievable food at every turn.
You know you’re onto something
when a chef in Tucson - the only
other UNESCO Creative City of
Cuisine in the United States - asks you
if you’ve been to a particular bakery
in San Antonio. Such was the case
when I was in Tucson recently at Seis
Kitchen when the manager asked if
I’d visited LaPanaderia while in San
Antonio. Did I visit? Oh yes! This was
the scene for one of the best breakfasts
of our trip. Here, as I feasted on my
breakfast sandwich while trying not
to slurp the vanilla latte set before me,
my eyes kept resting on the decadent
baked goods at the counter. My oh my,
how would I ever choose just one? I
wouldn’t. I chose a couple of pastries to
devour later.
La Panaderia
Pastries
Breakfast at
La Panaderia
38
39

40
i Tierra Cafe was the scene
for a decadent lunch of my
favorite Mexican specialty,
Chicken Mole Enchiladas. I
can see why this cafe has been
a San Antonio favorite since
the 1940s. The rich dark
brown mole sauce with hints of
chocolatey goodness was fantastic. After this
way-too-big lunch, I felt like an enchilada
and could’ve been rolled out the door. It was
worth every bite. Of course, I considered
stopping at the glorious panaderia inside
Mi Tierra on my way out, but somehow I
restrained myself.
You can’t truly experience San Antonio
without going to one of Johnny Hernandez’s
restaurants. On our way from the airport
to the hotel, our uber driver told us to go
to LaGloria. As we checked into the hotel,
the bellman echoed our uber driver with
the same recommendation. And they both
raved about Johnny personally, telling us how
much he’s done for San Antonio. Hernandez,
a CIA graduate, and San Antonio native is
an integral part of the San Antonio food
scene. His La Gloria at Pearl, one of the two
original restaurants in the Pearl District,
specializes in Mexican street food - the menu
shaped by Johnny’s Mexican heritage and his
travels through Mexico. We demolished the
sopes - with marinated pork, refried black
beans, pickled red onions, and another with
shredded chicken, Mexican mole sauce, salsa
arbol, onions, cilantro, crema, queso fresco
are incredible.
Another day we spent lunch at a different
Pearl restaurant, this time Cured At Pearl,
run by Chef Steve McHugh. The focus here
is on cured meats and other foods, all made
with regional ingredients. Six-time James
Beard Award finalist McHugh likes to know
who they’re getting their ingredients from.
They refer to their sourcing philosophy as
the 60-minute plate. Most all the ingredients
here can be traced back to a 60-mile radius.
The charcuterie boards are filled with all sorts
of fresh, local meats, cheeses, bread, jams,
spreads, and even edible flowers. As stunning
as they are to look at, they taste even better.
With Johnny Hernandez
at La Gloria
Colorful MiTierra Dining Room
San Antonio's Tex Mex Delights
From Lala's On Julia Celeste
Rosenfeld's Uniquely Texas
Mexican Food Tour
Fabulous Charcuterie at Cured at Pear
or pure fun,
dinner at
Clementine
gets the win.
It turns out a
gourmet meal can be
a blast. Mix a couple of
friends with delicious, surprising
food, a few glasses of wine, along
with decadent desserts and you
have the recipe for a great night
out. That’s what chef-owners
John and Elise Russ have done
at Clementine. Order the Feed
Me menu at Clementine, and
you’ll get chef-selected, expertly
prepared, seasonal favorites along
with perfect wine pairings. You
won’t exactly know what you’re
eating until the food is presented
to you. Chef John, a 2022 James
Beard award semi-finalist, creates
things I’d never thought I’d like:
think octopus, okra, and fresh
mushroom salad - in ways that
make these dishes unbelievably
good. The clementine crunch bar,
with chocolate mousse, toasted
hazelnuts, and Clementine sherbet,
created by pastry Chef Elise is
simply a work of art.
The Scrumptious Octopus at
Clementine from Chef John Russ
I love a good food tour, and I usually schedule
one whenever I visit a new city. The Uniquely
Texas Mexican Food Tour by Julia Celeste
Rosenfeld is one of the best tours I’ve been on.
This is a small tour that not only showcases
authentic foods native to San Antonio but
also digs into the heritage and the history of
the foods. We experienced the essence of San
Antonio food and ventured into places where
locals go to enjoy the culinary delights of the
city. We loved touring the artisanal tortilla
factory, a local fruteria, a small diner where
they specialize in making gorditas by hand,
and a trip to the San Antonio Missions. And
Lala's Outside Dining Area
because Juia is a former food critic and
CIA instructor with a deep love for San
Antonio and its food, she’s uniquely in the
know about the culinary happenings in
town.
Next time you’re looking for a foodie
experience, look no further than San
Antonio. You’ll find expertly prepared
foods rooted in Mexican-American
heritage. Whether made by exquisite chefs
de cuisine, James Beard Award nominees,
or cooks at the local taco spot, everything
we tasted we loved.
I was sponsored on my trip to San Antonio by Visit San Antonio.
Handmade Gordita's at Lala's On the Uniquely Texas Mexican Food Tour
41

The infinity pool at the
Hilton Dead Sea Resort.
From the
Dead Sea
to the
42
Red Sea
Miles Apart but Similar in Luxury
Story and Photos by Rose Palmer
Jordan may be best known for its desert
landscapes at Petra and Wadi Rum, but it is also
home to beautiful resorts where you can relax on
a beach, float on top of the water or dive under it.
Luxury on the Dead Sea
Of Jordan’s many natural treasures,
the Dead Sea has to be the most
unique. It is the lowest spot on the
planet and also one of the saltiest
bodies of water on the globe. Its
salinity is almost 10 times greater
than ocean water which makes it
difficult to swim in but very easy to
float on top of.
I spent two nights at the Hilton
Dead Sea Resort and Spa which
was only a one-hour drive from the
Queen Alia International Airport
outside of the capital of Amman,
Jordan. This large resort offers a
diverse selection of room types to
satisfy all needs and budgets. My
single room was quite large and had
a bathroom with shutters over the
tub that opened up to the bedroom
area.
Of course, the big draw here is
floating in the Dead Sea and
lathering yourself with the Dead
Sea mud. The Hilton made this very
easy, providing beach access via a
number of elevators that took me
down to the sandy and salty shore.
I didn’t even have to go digging
for the mud – an attendant kept
a large stone vat filled so that all
I had to do was spread it liberally
all over myself. Once the mud was
dry, there were plenty of fresh water
showers nearby to rinse off and
leave my skin feeling silky soft.
For more freshwater distractions,
there were also three large pools:
one for families, one for couples,
and an infinity pool for adults and
families. There was also a dedicated
play area for children.
45

The beach at the Hilton Dead
Sea Resort has plenty of lounge
chairs and umbrellas.
he Hilton
also had seven
bars and
restaurants
on its property.
The breakfast
and lunch buffet
at the Spectrum
restaurant had many
choices of local and
international dishes.
Dinner at the 1312
restaurant featured
modern Middle
Eastern flavors, but
for variety, I really
enjoyed the freshly
made pasta at the
Bacchus Italian
Trattoria.
View from the lobby
toward the Dead Sea
at the Hilton Resort.
The Spectrum Restaurant at the
Hilton Dead Sea Resort.
Some of the pools at the
Hilton Dead Sea Resort.
The lobby at the Hilton
Dead Sea Resort.
My room and bath at the
Hilton Dead Sea Resort.
At the top of my
list of experiences
at this resort was
time at the spa. The
health benefits of
the Dead Sea salts
have been purported
since the time of
Herod the Great
over 2000 years ago.
Whether you believe
in these benefits or
not, getting a spa
treatment using Dead
Sea products was
a must – after all, I
would not be able to
do this any place else.
Watching the sun set
over the Dead Sea.
For a perfect end
to my stay, a bright
orange sunset over
the Dead Sea capped
off each day.
44
45

Intercontinental Aqaba Resort -
View from my room
Intercontinental Aqaba Resort - The pool area
Luxury on the Red Sea
46
Located on the Gulf of Aqaba
which is a finger extending north
from the Red Sea, is Jordan’s only
seawater port and city, Aqaba.
This ancient, natural harbor has
played an important role in the
development of the Jordanian
economy. Besides the many trade
goods that pass through here, this
location is also a big draw for the
tourism industry.
Aqaba has become a popular
cruise ship stop giving passengers
the opportunity for day trips to
nearby Wadi Rum and Petra. But
for those that have more time, the
crystal clear, sapphire blue waters
also offer opportunities for longer
stays in a wide selection of luxury
resorts that line the sandy beaches
along the gulf.
I was privileged to experience two
of these resorts and am happy
to recommend both. My first
stay a few years ago was at the
Intercontinental Resort Aqaba.
The open-concept lobby was
impressive, and my guest room was
equally lovely – very spacious with
a balcony overlooking the grounds
and sea. But it was the resort’s
long, private, sandy beach lined
with its many lounge chairs that
were the real draw for me. My plan
was to spend the day relaxing on a
lounge chair in the sand or by the
undulating lagoon-style pool while
my husband went scuba diving.
48

The beach at
the Movenpick
Aqaba Resort.
The large private
beach at the Intercontinental
Aqaba
Resort has lots of
lounge chairs and
umbrellas.
adly, my itinerary only had us
staying at the Intercontinental
for two nights which really did
not give me enough time to try all
the amenities and restaurants. The hotel
has a large, modern fitness center, a fullservice
spa, a kids club, and 6 restaurants,
bars, and cafes. I remember how impressed
I was at the many choices available at the
breakfast buffet in the Corniche Restaurant
– certainly more options than I had room to
try. My first ever taste of Lebanese cuisine
was also at the hotel’s Burj al Hamam
restaurant. It was an introduction to the
many colors and flavors of the region’s
mezze which I love to eat to this day.
Down the street from the Intercontinental
is the Movenpick Aqaba Resort and
Residences which is where I had my most
recent short stay. This large and beautiful
resort has a variety of accommodation
types, from standard-size hotel rooms to
multi-bedroom apartments with kitchens
and living rooms, making it an ideal spot
for families. Since it was just me, my
standard room with the balcony looking out
over the seas was quite adequate.
That this resort was popular with families
became even more evident when I explored
the pool areas. Moms, dads, and children
of all ages were lounging or playing in the
water. The hotel also offered beach access
with lounge chairs (though it was smaller
than the beach at the Intercontinental).
cross the street from the
Movenpick I explored the
remains of the ancient city of
Ayla, the first Islamic city
that was founded outside of the Arabian
Peninsula, and the precursor to the current
city of Aqaba. History buffs may also be
interested in a visit to the Aqaba Fort (also
known as the Mamluk Castle) which was
the site of one of the most famous victories
of the Arab Revolt during World War I.
However, the biggest draw here are the
clear gulf waters and the abundant natural
wonders found under the waves. The Red
Sea in this region has a reputation for
outstanding scuba diving and snorkeling
conditions. My husband did a walk-in dive
at the Japanese Garden dive site and said it
was like swimming in an aquarium filled
with colorful fish. Similarly, the friends I
was with who dove the Berenice reef from
a boat were also quite enthusiastic about
all the marine life they encountered during
their dive.
So, whether it’s a resort on the Dead Sea or
the Red Sea you will find plenty of luxury
and relaxation options, regardless of which
one you choose. Why not add both to your
Jordan itinerary?
The ancient remains of the city of Ayla
with the resort in the background.
The view from my room’s balcony
at the Movenpick Aqaba Resort.
One of the pool
areas at the
Movenpick Aqaba
Resort.
Again, due to my short stay, I only had
time to try and savor two of the restaurant
options at the Movenpick. Rather than a
full dinner, I chose an early, lighter snack
and a drink at the Al Nafoura Lobby Bar
and Terrace (you can also get afternoon tea
here). A huge breakfast buffet with plenty
of international and middle eastern choices
awaited me at the Palm Court Restaurant
and Terrace the next morning.
The lower lobby
at the Movenpick
Aqaba Resort.
The Palm Court
restaurant
48
49

The Washington State Ferry, Poulsbo, WA
Exploring Bainbridge Island
And the Kitsap Peninsula
Story and Photos by Lisa Morales
Breakfast at the Sunnyside Cafe on
Bainbridge Island is justifiably famous.
Port Gamble is a charming waterfront town with deep ties to the
lumber industry. It remains a “company town” today.
50
verything about the culture
of the Kitsap peninsula is
tied to the water. Water
flows through and around
the peninsula encompassing
the way of life back to the
earliest settlers of the area and is a
palpable presence in everyday life
now. Waterways are so key that the
Kitsap Peninsula National Water Trails
designation allows access for recreation
to 371 miles of shorelines for many
activities. It Is the only natural saltwater
trail in the United States.
Getting to the Kitsap peninsula
involves crossing water if you are
coming from Seattle by bridge or
by ferry. You’ll leave the skyscrapers
of downtown Seattle behind and be
welcomed by the tall Cedars and Firs
of the Kitsap area. Washington State
ferries bring you to Bainbridge Island
or other points from which you can
cross onto the peninsula itself.
Bainbridge Island Downtown along
Winslow Way is as charming as any
coastal town could be. At the same
time, it is vibrant, and the sea is always
part of the experience. There is an
ongoing effort to develop waterfront
parks and trails from Olympic Drive
and the Washington State Ferry
terminal. Begin your visit here at the
information center.
Start your day with breakfast at the
Streamliner diner with the locals who
don’t mind waiting for the famous
biscuits. Everything is fresh and hot
and the service is as friendly as if you
were at your neighbor’s table. Try the
eggs Benedict and while the coffee is
hot and plentiful here it’s worth a walk
down the block to the rightly famous
Pegasus Coffee House.
The Ferry Terminal Pier. Poulsbo, WA,
51

The Bainbridge island Museum of Art displays local
and international artists’ works in several galleries.
he arts are alive on Winslow Street from
end to end, from the Bainbridge Island Museum of
Art to the Bainbridge Arts & crafts cooperative and
artisan and antiques shops in between, a perfect way
to stroll and explore. The museum has a remarkable
depth for a small museum, with permanent and
rotating exhibits by local and international artists, it also
has a café.
More sober but equally compelling is the Japanese
American Exclusion Memorial. Set on the water on
the pier from which the deportees met their ship, it is a
dignified educational exhibit and gardens. The memorial
wall honors the names of all 276 of those exiled from
Bainbridge Island and celebrates the island community
that welcomed them home. This National Parks Historic
Site is located at 4192 Eagle Harbor Drive.
The magnificent gardens and native habitats form the
backdrop for the living art that is the Bloedel Reserve on
Bainbridge Island, WA. Founded on the ancestral lands of
the Suquamish People by Prentice and Virginia Bloedel,
this 150-acre oasis of calm welcomes visitors by the sea
year-round. The Reserve is located at 7571 NE Dolphin
Drive, Bainbridge Island, WA.
drive out to Point No
Point Lighthouse in
Hansville, WA, really
gives perspective on
the waterways’ role in
Kitsap life. Situated on a
promontory it is the oldest lighthouse on
Puget Sound. This stately operational aid
to navigation shares a name and historic
significance with the Point No Point
Treaty and is the national headquarters
for the United States Lighthouse Society.
The station keeper’s quarters have been
converted into an office for the Society
as well as guest quarters for vacation
rental. Whimsical topiaries fill the yard
and playful furniture occupies the front
porches.
Point No Point was the site of a treaty
signed on January 26, 1855, at a treaty
council with the Governor of the
Washington Territory and the S’Kallam,
Chimakum, and Skokomish tribes. They
called this spit of land Hahdskus.
Chief Seattle, known as Sealth, was an influential Suquamish and
Duwamish chief who died in 1866.
Docent, and survivor, Lilly Kitamoto displays her family plaques on
the memorial wall at the Japanese American Exclusion Memorial
There are several hotel choices on Bainbridge Island
including the luxurious Inn at Pleasant Beach Village and
the conveniently located all-suite The Marshall Suites.
52
The Residence at the Bloedel reserve and Gardens
welcomes visitors year-round.
The Lighthouse Keepers cottage at Point No Point lighthouse
is part of the historic compound.
The scenic and historic small town of Poulsbo,
pronounced “Paul’s Bo,” is big on civic pride and with good
reason. The town welcomes visitors with huge, colorful
murals along the harbor and Front Street, the main
commercial street in the village. Many harken back to the
town’s Scandinavian founders. The sea is integral to the
village, with scenic walkways along the busy marina, a sea
life center, and a history museum that details the fishing
and boating heritage. Shops with names like Nordiska and
Viking Coffee let you know what the heritage is, and the
Sons of Norway boasts a large membership, occupying a
prime spot with a gorgeous view of Liberty Bay.
The Poulsbo Historical Society and Museums is an
ambitious undertaking with four areas in three buildings,
with the Maritime and History Museums on Front Street.
The Martinson Cabin is on Lindvig Way. The Maritime
Museum location houses a library, children’s discovery
space, maritime artifacts, and fully restored water crafts.
The enthusiastic volunteers are happy to explain the
exhibits and share their extensive knowledge of Poulsbo,
so named because of a spelling error on the charter!
Poulsbo has loads of options for shopping and eating, with
coffee shops and bakeries, traditional Italian restaurants,
seafood, and German specialties as well.
Poulsbo is proud of its nautical and
Scandinavian heritage. Here is a
replica at the Maritime Museum.
The Suquamish Museum houses historic and contemporary
examples of tribal culture in both interior and exterior exhibits.
Other great sites to experience Native American Culture is the
Suquamish Museum, House of Awakened Culture, and Chief Seattle
gravesite. These combined sites give an overview of the history and
legacy of these original peoples and a glimpse into their contemporary
culture. The indoor and outdoor exhibits are family-friendly, visit 6861
NE South ST, Suquamish, WA.
The historic town of Port Gamble is also a must-visit for shopping,
history, great eats, and ghost tours! Visit the extensive historical
collection tucked below the delightful General Store and cafe. Breakfast
or lunch at Butcher and Baker Provisions is a treat.
With so much to see and do so close to Seattle a visit to Bainbridge
Island and the greater Kitsap Peninsula is welcome any time of the
year, but the stunning gardens are a springtime delight.
This trip was sponsored by
Visit Kitsap Peninsula and Visit Bainbridge Island.
53

Krabi, Thailand
An Out-of-the-Way Nature Experience
Story and pictures by Carla Marie Rupp and Jason Rupp
t felt heavenly to lounge
in the small hot pool a
bit, then go in a warmer
one, and back to the hot.
You step over natural
rocks to go from one
pool to the other. Guests
take pleasure in laughing
and having their pictures taken
if they want. This spa is rural
and filled with greenery and
trees. You can see a waterfall
and people frolicking in it.
Carla enjoyed the soaking at Wareerak Hot Springs
rabi, in Southern Thailand, is where many
Thai experiences feel more local and personal
than those at the more famous, yet fun,
Phuket Island. Nearby Krabi is simply
breathtakingly beautiful and worth going out
of your way for and enjoying its hospitality,
with its over 100 islands and jagged
limestone cliffs, and sharp edges piercing the skies.
My first stop was Wareerak Hot Springs & Wellness,
a rustic hot springs spa, far in the countryside in the
Khlong Tom district. The spa blends in with the lush
tropical landscape, giving visitors a natural and relaxing
atmosphere. I even got a traditional Thai massage
outside, where I could enjoy the sounds of the jungle.
When you arrive at the spa, you are offered a health test.
Results are used to determine, among other things, what
type of food they will prepare for you personally to eat.
Based on the results, you might be prescribed foods
like bitter gourd vegetables, popular in Asia, and fruits
like pomelo, which is kind of like a grapefruit. Or other
foods may suit you better. I enjoyed this afternoon lunch
meal after the massages and natural mineral hot springs
pools.
This individually-tailored lunch is prepared while the
visitor soaks in the mineral springs, each with different
temperatures, or while getting massaged. Beneficial yoga
positions helpful for different body types are also taught.
The staff at Wareerak were hands-on and helpful for
health and well-being. The spa combines conventional
spa therapies with ancient traditional Thai medicine
for a holistic approach to healing and harmonizing the
mind, body, and soul.
Guests might be lucky to have
a special longevity massage by
a trained masseuse. She gently
pushes on the stomach area and
sides. This massage is useful for
a pregnant woman, or one who
wants to improve their general
health and organ functions.
There is plenty of comfortable
lodging at Wareerak for
overnight guests. It was great
they provide spa clothing to
wear so you don't have to leave
with wet clothes.
Finally, we said our thank you
and goodbyes. The staff smiled
and waved. It was hard to go
because it felt so good there.
Soaking in these natural pools
of water at this Krabi spa was so
satisfying.
Krabi likes to go local.
Community-based tourism
and local events are being
promoted. Ban NaTeen
Community Tourism Village is
one great local experience. The
village celebrates traditional
local handicrafts and foods and
is worth visiting. Here, we were
able to enjoy fresh coconut
milk pancakes made fresh to
order, called kanom krok.
A local Thai spa guest shows off her wellness
prescription, based on her blood type and other
stats at Krabi's Wareerak Hot Springs
Carla loved getting a Thai massage amongst nature at Krabi's Wareerak Hot Springs
Relaxing on the back porch of our rustic villa at
Venice Krabi Villa Resort
Krabi is just across the water
from Phuket Island
Jason Rupp is getting a Thai
massage in Railay Beach
54
55

ne local authentic experience
we enjoyed was working
with batik in a small group
setting. It was rewarding to
paint fabric, with a nature
theme, using our choice of
colors, guided by locals from
Lanta Batik at Lanta Noi Island.
Later at dinner, we met the batik
teacher again at a fashion show at a
nearby hotel restaurant at Twin Lotus
Resort Koh Lanta. Every Tuesday and
Saturday, a buffet and show event is
held here. I got up and danced with
the local ladies in costume when they
motioned. Several other good choices
of hotels in this area are Layana Resort
and Lanta Casablanca.
Another great natural Krabi experience
with majestic scenery involves a boat
ride from Sriraya pier to Koh Ngai, a
green, small island. Here you can see
hornbill birds and hermit crabs, and eat
lunch facing the sea at the sustainable
Tap Warin Resort.
We enjoyed learning how to paint batiks during a class at Lanta Batik
Ao-nang, Krabi's most popular
beach, is the busiest area with
resorts such as Amari Vogue Krabi
and Sofitel Krabi Phokeethra Golf
and Spa Resort. The Andalay Beach
Bar and Cafe is one spot nearby
that provides an incredible array
of foods and scenery. We loved
Thai mango rice dessert and other
specialties. That is where we met
people from the Krabi Sustainable
Foundation. We bought key chains
made of fisherman's nets here and
chatted with people at booths of
organizations By Wonpanit Krabi
and Souvenir from the Sea at a little
night festival. It was all complete
with incredible fire dancers. Krabi
prides itself on “upcycling” and
sustainability. Our group kept
remarking on how Krabi has a caring
vibe.
he Mud Crab Sculpture, a
symbol of Krabi City, is where we
joined a boat ride to see a mangrove
forest at Khao Kanabnam. The boat
ride, with Sea Cool Tours, included
a stop to hike in and out of a cave.
Afterward, we really had an appetite for
an amazing Thai seafood meal at a familyowned
Baan Ma Ying restaurant.
A favorite experience we did in Krabi was
riding a “tuk-tuk” motorized vehicle far
into the countryside, seeing lots of birds,
farmers, and smiling rural Thai locals. We
saw animals, such as water buffalo, ducks,
and chickens. Our fun ride took us to
Islanda Hideaway Resort, Koh Klang, Krabi,
for a cooking class, where we learned to mix
up a healthy, delicious seaweed salad from
local ingredients.
If you like kayaking, Thalane Bay could
be a place to set off for the most beautiful
mangrove forest in the whole of Thailand.
Adventure kayaking here is a magical
experience, best seen slowly and in silence
while viewing the oldest exposed rock in all
of Krabi. The sandstone was formed before
even the ancient reefs.
The mud crab sculpture is an iconic symbol of Krabi, so we
took a fun pic with it, as most tourists do.
Khao Khanabnam cave in Krabi
56
Tourists returning from island hopping for the day
On Koh Klang, an island just off
of Krabi City, the only way to get
around is on a little tuk tuk.
Buffaloes and cows roam freely on the island of Koh Klang.
57

Island hopping long tail boats for hire are easy to find. This one
took us to Koh Hong, a paradise island off the mainland in Krabi.
This luxury long tail boat was run by Krabi Expert tours
The pool at Venice Krabi Villa Resort is long and quiet, which lets you listen to nature.
o kayak at Ao Thalane is to find the
solace in nature that so many seek
and to truly connect. This out-of-the-way
area is full of hidden gems. Our guide at
Sea Kayak Krabi knew where to find them.
A great nature activity we enjoyed was
taking a longtail boat trip to Koh Hong Island by
way of the Krabi Expert Tour. Here, we were able
to get pictures of desolate white sand beaches, and
a bay surrounded by the cliffs and jagged edgy
mountains that make Krabi famous.
Nature abounds in Krabi, with places such as
Thapom Canal, where an underground freshwater
canal meets an ocean canal from the Andaman
Sea. The colors of the canal change based on
the tide. The canal where they meet is rich with
extraordinary minerals.
Speaking of canals, several out-of-the-way resorts
we recommend are Venice Krabi Villa Resort, with
its canals throughout, and Railay Village Resort,
reachable only by boat. The Venice Krabi Villa has
the option to reach your room by boat or by golf
cart. Both of these two resorts were unusual in their
own way. We loved Railay Beach, and marveled
at its natural surroundings, with jagged cliffs and
mountains.
You’re invited
to Springfield,
Missouri
A beach from Railay Village Resort
At Venice Krabi Resort, we enjoyed being taken by
boat to our room at check-in, and the next day to
the buffet breakfast, (as close to Italy as we could get
in Thailand!). The Venice resort has an incredible
swimming pool. The pool is so long that everybody
can have their own private viewing area of rice
fields, and even the sunset, if you stay in the pool
long enough – as we did.
Carla Marie Rupp and Jason Rupp
Railay Beach has much less hustle-and-bustle than
the more popular island Koh Phi Phi, but it is still
very much worth going to for a couple of nights.
Thailand is full of amazing places like all of
these, especially in beautiful, natural Krabi. We
couldn't help but smile as we boarded and took
the appropriately-named Smile Airways back to
Bangkok.
We're sold on Krabi and its charms.
ThailandInsider.com is the best place to
learn more about Krabi and all of Thailand.
SPRINGFIELD, MISSOURI WELCOMES YOU
TO VISIT OUR CITY AS WE HOST YOU ON
YOUR OZARKS ADVENTURE!
Lodging, attraction tickets, meal vouchers, airfare and more are
covered for NATJA members that are qualified media, including
freelancers, bloggers and social media influencers.
Learn more at springfieldmo.org/media OR
Contact Susan Wade at 800-678-8767 or swade@springfieldmo.org
SpringfieldMo.org
Scan this QR code
to go directly to our
media press trip
qualifications page.
58
59

Guests enjoy Discovery Princess’ beautiful
atrium before setting sail to the Mexican Riviera
Five reasons why you’ll love
Princess Cruises’
“360: An Extraordinary Experience”
Story and Photos by Janice Sakata-Schultze
Enjoy the sights and sounds
of Mediterranean locales like
Barcelona with 360: An Extraordinary
Experience (photo
courtesy of Princess Cruises)
60
magine
traveling to the
Mediterranean,
indulging in all the
sights, smells, sounds,
tastes, and touches of this
sunny destination.
The aquamarine hues of the water, the
sweet florals of lavender, the melodious
tones of a Greek lyra or Spanish guitar,
the tanginess of lemon, and the warmth
of the sun. They all contribute to the
magical atmosphere of this corner of
Europe. Yet, this experience doesn’t
require a long flight overseas or extra
costs if you are booked on a suite with
Princess Cruises’ Discovery Princess.
Just look for your special invitation and
enjoy this wonderful side trip to the
western Mediterranean Sea.
I recently boarded the Discovery
Princess in the Port of Los Angeles a
few months ago, where nineteen other
travel writers and I spent two hours
on 360: An Extraordinary Experience.
Guests were already present and
enjoying the start of their vacation
to the Mexican Riviera, with the
expansive marble-floored and crystal
chandelier-adorned atrium adorned
with sparkling holiday decorations.
The Princess staff gathered us together
in the atrium bar, then guided our
group into Sabatini’s, their specialty
Italian restaurant. They explained what
to expect from this special lunch event,
and how it was by invitation only to
suite guests and those who were VIP
casino participants.
We then headed into a corridor that led
to a theater in the round room with a
ring-like table in the center. Blank white
walls - a 360-degree screen - hinted at
the spectacle of what we were about to
witness.
The host walked to the center of
the space encircled by the table and
explained what we would experience
in the next hour or so. Our location
was Southern California, but we would
be transported to destinations in the
Mediterranean – specifically Greece,
Italy, France, and Spain. With the
immersive sensory presentation, along
with the incredible cuisine, we believed
that our party was halfway around
the world in this fabled sun-drenched
paradise.
62

Here are FIVE reasons why you’ll love
360: An Extraordinary Experience
if you get one of those coveted invitations.
1. AN INTIMATE GATHERING:
Unlike going to the ship’s main dining
room or even in the smaller specialty
dining venues, the capacity at 360 will
never be more than twenty guests.
Hosting a relatively small group allowed
the serving staff – with a two to one
server to guest ratio - to personally
attend and the host to answer any
questions about the food or wine
offered. The setting also provided a
terrific simulation of the destinations.
With just under two dozen diners in
the room, we were highly encouraged
to interact more easily with our fellow
guests.
2. BROOKE SHIELDS, OUR
VIRTUAL TRAVEL COMPANION:
The longtime actress portrayed a
traveler recalling her adventures
through her journal, and this served as
the frame for the entire 360 experience.
Through her vivid descriptions of the
jewel-blue Aegean in Greece, terraced
seaside cliffs in Italy, fragrant French
lavender fields and Barcelona’s vibrant
culture, she became a fascinating
storyteller. Shields also introduced
us to the foods that we enjoyed
throughout the meal and their vendors
and creators, who had their own stories
to tell. With Shields as our guide, the
narration added to our enjoyment of
the multicultural event.
3. MULTIMEDIA ENTERTAIN-
MENT AT YOUR TABLE
From the moment we sat down at the
circular table, we enjoyed surprises
at every turn. In addition to the
high-definition video projected onto
the screens, with postcard-worthy
scenery, we listened to music that
accompanied the images. There was
an added surprise – the table itself was
an interactive presentation, starting
with our names on the place settings
and continuing with blooming flowers,
animated characters and colorful
designs that changed with the touch of
a finger.
4. A CULINARY EDUCATION
In addition to the impeccable service,
the most enjoyable aspect of 360 was
discovering the origins of the foods and
drinks served over the seven courses.
For instance, before sampling linguine
al limone with cream, fresh herbs and
Parmigiano-Reggiano, we heard from an
Italian farmer about the lemons he grows
on the Amalfi Coast. Before this dish,
we dined on a caprese salad with creamy
burrata and heirloom tomatoes and
learned about the fruity white wine that
accompanied the dish, Lacryma Christi
del Vesuvio, as well as the winemaker who
has lovingly crafted it for decades.
5. BRINGING YOUR
HEARTIEST APPETITE
Naturally, when a seven-course lunch is
in store, you practically avoid breakfast so
you can enjoy it all. Getting through the
assortment of Greek olives, yogurt sauce
and mini-pitas and the bruschetta with
jamon and chorizo was easy; moving on
to grilled octopus with feta, filet mignon
with shrimp, eggplant and truffles was
more challenging. Saving room refreshing
finish with honeycomb cake, lavender and
raspberry coulis is highly recommended.
opefully, the
360 experience
will soon
open to
anyone who wishes to
pay for this incredible meal and a
virtual trip to the Mediterranean.
But for now, do consider booking
your suite accommodations on
Discovery Princess, so you can enjoy
this beautiful locale on any cruise
itinerary.
Guests can enjoy an interactive
animation on the dining table of 360:
An Extraordinary Experience (photo
courtesy of Princess Cruises)
Discovery Princess’ three-story atrium, decorated from the holidays
62
The host of 360: An Extraordinary Experience explains the wines and drinks you will enjoy with
each course of your meal (photo courtesy of Princess Cruises)
The serving staff answers any questions you may have about the meal (photo courtesy of Princess Cruises)
63

Welcome to
the Land of
YES
From corkscrew rollercoasters
to Peanut Butter Pizza to
waterslide wedgies to pillaging
pirates and knights in tights.
Southern California’s Fun City
is a place you can say yes to
anything and everything.
64
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