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50 Classic Routes on Scottish Mountains by Ralph Storer sampler

Following on from 100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains and 50 Best Routes on Skye and Raasay, this new volume of fifty routes, updated from the hardback edition, completes Storer's best-selling series of guidebooks to the best of Scottish hillwalking. Like its companion volumes, 50 Classic Routes again ranges across the Highlands and Islands to provide an outstanding cross-section of routes, from gentle hillwalks to thrilling scrambles, from popular Munros to less well-known but equally rewarding mountains that will be a revelation even to those who think they know the Highlands well. All routes begin and end at the same place, are accessible by road and include a peak over 600m/2,000ft. Route descriptions are detailed yet concise, and each is accompanied by one of Storer's helpful at-a-glance route grids, which give ratings for technically difficult terrain, seriousness and foul weather navigability. The book includes a map of each route and a selection of photographs. Let 50 Classic Routes help you make the most of your time in the Scottish mountains. Happy Walking!

Following on from 100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains and 50 Best Routes on Skye and Raasay, this new volume of fifty routes, updated from the hardback edition, completes Storer's best-selling series of guidebooks to the best of Scottish hillwalking. Like its companion volumes, 50 Classic Routes again ranges across the Highlands and Islands to provide an outstanding cross-section of routes, from gentle hillwalks to thrilling scrambles, from popular Munros to less well-known but equally rewarding mountains that will be a revelation even to those who think they know the Highlands well.

All routes begin and end at the same place, are accessible by road and include a peak over 600m/2,000ft. Route descriptions are detailed yet concise, and each is accompanied by one of Storer's helpful at-a-glance route grids, which give ratings for technically difficult terrain, seriousness and foul weather navigability. The book includes a map of each route and a selection of photographs.

Let 50 Classic Routes help you make the most of your time in the Scottish mountains.

Happy Walking!

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alph storer is an experienced hillwalker who has hiked extensively<br />

around the world. Despite being a Sassenach <strong>by</strong> birth, he has lived in<br />

Scotland since studying psychology at Dundee University and has a<br />

great affinity for the Highlands. As well as disappearing into the hills<br />

for a regular fix of nature, he also writes ficti<strong>on</strong>, is a c<strong>on</strong>tributing editor<br />

to Jade, the magazine of the Guild of Erotic Artists, and produces<br />

darkwave music <strong>on</strong> his home computer.<br />

His books are excepti<strong>on</strong>al… <strong>Storer</strong> subverts the<br />

guidebook genre completely.<br />

the angry corrie


THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE MUNROS series<br />

Picks up where others – including my own – leave off, with<br />

lots of nitty-gritty informati<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> alternative routes, levels of<br />

difficulty and aids to navigati<strong>on</strong>, all in a very up-beat style.<br />

Given that all this extra Munro-info would fill a gigantic<br />

Bumper Fun Book of the Munros, <strong>Ralph</strong> has chosen to break<br />

the list down into volumes, of which the Southern Highlands<br />

is the first. I look forward to seeing the rest of his fun-packed<br />

Munros series.<br />

camer<strong>on</strong> mcneish<br />

Fabulously illustrated… Entertaining as well as informative…<br />

One of the definitive guides to the Munros.<br />

press & journal<br />

Irresistibly funny and useful; an innovatively thought-through<br />

guidebook that makes an appetising broth of its wit, experience<br />

and visual and literary tools. Brilliant.<br />

outdoor writers & photographers guild<br />

With the winning combinati<strong>on</strong> of reliable advice and quirky<br />

humour, this is the ideal hillwalking compani<strong>on</strong>.<br />

scots magazine<br />

This is a truly indispensable guide for the Munro-bagger.<br />

Bursting with informati<strong>on</strong>, wit and delightful irreverence rarely<br />

found in this type of guide, it is a joy to read. An absolute gem!<br />

alex mackinn<strong>on</strong>, manager, waterst<strong>on</strong>e’s, edinburgh


BAFFIES’ EASY MUNRO GUIDE series<br />

A truly outstanding guidebook.<br />

undiscovered scotland<br />

Packed to bursting with c<strong>on</strong>cise informati<strong>on</strong> and route<br />

descripti<strong>on</strong>s. There should be room for this guide in<br />

every couch potato’s rucksack.<br />

outdoor writers & photographers guild<br />

It is perfect for any<strong>on</strong>e exploring Scotland’s beautiful<br />

mountains, whatever his or her level of experience.<br />

guidepost<br />

THE JOY OF HILLWALKING<br />

A treat for all hillwalkers active or chairbound.<br />

scots independent<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> SHADES OF HILLWALKING<br />

A fantastic celebrati<strong>on</strong> of this addictive pastime.<br />

d<strong>on</strong> currie, scotland outdoors<br />

THE ULTIMATE MOUNTAIN TRIVIA QUIZ CHALLENGE<br />

A thoroughly fascinating way to kill time – every<br />

bothy should be furnished with <strong>on</strong>e.<br />

roger cox, the scotsman


Books <strong>by</strong> <strong>Ralph</strong> <strong>Storer</strong><br />

100 Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong> (Little Brown)<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> Skye and Raasay (Birlinn)<br />

Exploring <strong>Scottish</strong> Hill Tracks (Little Brown)<br />

The Ultimate Guide to the Munros series (Luath Press):<br />

Volume 1: Southern Highlands<br />

Volume 2: Central Highlands South (including Glen Coe)<br />

Volume 3: Central Highlands North (including Ben Nevis)<br />

Volume 4: Cairngorms South (including Lochnagar)<br />

Volume 5: Cairngorms North (including Cairn Gorm<br />

and Ben Macdui)<br />

Baffies’ Easy Munro Guide series (Luath Press):<br />

Volume 1: Southern Highlands<br />

Volume 2: Central Highlands<br />

Volume 3: The Cairngorms<br />

The Joy of Hillwalking (Luath Press)<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Shades of Hillwalking (Luath Press)<br />

The Ultimate Mountain Trivia Quiz Challenge (Luath Press)


<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Classic</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

<strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong><br />

Third Editi<strong>on</strong><br />

RALPH STORER<br />

Luath Press Limited<br />

EDINBURGH<br />

www.luath.co.uk


First published in hardback <strong>by</strong> David & Charles 1998<br />

Revised paperback editi<strong>on</strong> 2005<br />

Revised editi<strong>on</strong> 2018<br />

isbn: 978-1-912147-29-8<br />

The paper used in this book is recyclable. It is made from low<br />

chlorine pulps produced in a low energy, low emissi<strong>on</strong> manner<br />

from renewable forests.<br />

Printed and bound <strong>by</strong><br />

Bell & Bain Ltd., Glasgow<br />

Typeset <strong>by</strong> 3btype.com<br />

© <strong>Ralph</strong> <strong>Storer</strong>


To those who follow in our footsteps


A Message from the Publishers<br />

Hillwalking and mountaineering are not risk-free activities and<br />

may prove injurious to users of this book. While every care and<br />

effort has been taken in its preparati<strong>on</strong>, readers should note that<br />

informati<strong>on</strong> c<strong>on</strong>tained within can change following publicati<strong>on</strong><br />

and may not be accurate. Neither the publisher nor the author<br />

accept any liability for injury or damage of any kind arising<br />

directly or indirectly from the book’s c<strong>on</strong>tents.<br />

9


Acknowledgements<br />

Investigating a route for a hillwalking guidebook involves more<br />

than simply climbing a mountain. It may mean exploring more<br />

than <strong>on</strong>e approach, checking different ascent routes, pausing<br />

repeatedly to take notes, redescending to find a missed path,<br />

starting early or chasing a patch of blue sky to obtain the best<br />

light for a photograph. It is not the kind of day <strong>on</strong> the hill that<br />

many hillwalkers would be prepared to endure (at least, more<br />

than <strong>on</strong>ce). I would therefore like all my hillwalking compani<strong>on</strong>s<br />

to know that, although it may not have seemed like it <strong>on</strong> occasi<strong>on</strong>,<br />

I shall be forever grateful for their patience, understanding and<br />

help in the writing of this book.<br />

All maps <strong>by</strong> D<strong>on</strong> Sargeant and the author.<br />

All photographs <strong>by</strong> the author.<br />

11


C<strong>on</strong>tents<br />

Preface to the Third Editi<strong>on</strong> 17<br />

Introducti<strong>on</strong> 19<br />

The <strong>Scottish</strong> Highlands 21<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 23<br />

Route Grid 25<br />

Map of Scotland 26<br />

Grade 27<br />

Terrain 28<br />

Navigati<strong>on</strong> 28<br />

Seriousness 28<br />

Route Assessment 28<br />

Seas<strong>on</strong>s and Weather 29<br />

Weather forecasts 30<br />

Sketch Maps 30<br />

Measurements 31<br />

Mountain Names 32<br />

Access 33<br />

the southern highlands 35<br />

1 Ben Vorlich (Arrochar) 36<br />

2 Ben Vane 38<br />

3 Beinn Ime and Beinn Narnain 40<br />

4 Beinn an Lochain 42<br />

5 Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhchraig 44<br />

6 Ben Challum 46<br />

7 Beinn Achaladair and Beinn a’ Chreachain 48<br />

8 Creag Mhor <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

9 Stuchd an Lochain 52<br />

10 The Glen Ly<strong>on</strong> Horseshoe 54<br />

13


the central highlands 57<br />

11 Beinn a’ Chochuill and Beinn Eunaich 58<br />

12 Stob Coir’ an Albannaich and Glas Bheinn Mhor 60<br />

13 Beinn Sgulaird 62<br />

14 Beinn Fhi<strong>on</strong>nlaidh 64<br />

15 Sgor na h-Ulaidh 66<br />

16 Creise and Meall a’ Bhuiridh 68<br />

17 The Giant’s Staircase of Stob Ban 70<br />

18 The Treig Traverse 72<br />

19 Carn Dearg and Sgor Gaibhre 74<br />

20 The Ardverikie Trio 76<br />

21 Beinn a’ Chaorainn 78<br />

the western highlands 81<br />

22 Beinn Resipol 82<br />

23 Sgurr Dhomhnuill 84<br />

24 Sgurr Ghiubhsachain 86<br />

25 Gulvain 88<br />

26 Sgurr na h-Aide 90<br />

27 Sgurr nan Coireachan 92<br />

28 Sgurr Mor 94<br />

29 Meall na Teanga 96<br />

30 The Druim Chosaidh 98<br />

31 Ben Aden 100<br />

32 Gairich 102<br />

33 Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich 104<br />

34 The South Glen Shiel Ridge 106<br />

35 The C<strong>on</strong>bhairean Group 108<br />

14


the northern highlands 111<br />

36 The Round of the Hundred Hills 112<br />

37 Beinn Dearg (Torrid<strong>on</strong>) 114<br />

38 Beinn an Eoin 116<br />

39 The West Fannichs 118<br />

40 The Glensguaib Circuit 120<br />

41 Cul Mor 122<br />

42 Arkle 124<br />

the cairngorms 126<br />

43 Glas Tulaichean 128<br />

44 Broad Cairn 130<br />

45 The Glen Feshie Hills 132<br />

46 The Devil’s Point 134<br />

47 Beinn Mheadhoin 136<br />

48 Beinn a’ Bhuird 138<br />

the islands 141<br />

49 Ullaval and Oreval (Harris) 142<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Teilesval and Uisgnaval Mor (Harris) 144<br />

Glossary / Index 147<br />

15


Preface to the Third Editi<strong>on</strong><br />

following <strong>on</strong> from <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong>, <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

More <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong> and <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> Skye and<br />

Raasay, <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Classic</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong> completes a selecti<strong>on</strong><br />

of 200 routes that represents the best of <strong>Scottish</strong> hillwalking.<br />

The four volumes were originally published as four hardbacks,<br />

which are no l<strong>on</strong>ger available. In paperback form, <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

and <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> More <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> have been combined into 100 Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

<strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong>, published <strong>by</strong> Warner Books. The sec<strong>on</strong>d<br />

paperback editi<strong>on</strong> of <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> Skye and Raasay is<br />

published <strong>by</strong> Birlinn. This Luath Press publicati<strong>on</strong> is the third<br />

paperback editi<strong>on</strong> of <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Classic</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong>.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Classic</str<strong>on</strong>g> c<strong>on</strong>tains a selecti<strong>on</strong> of outstanding walking and<br />

scrambling routes that were prevented <strong>by</strong> lack of space from<br />

inclusi<strong>on</strong> in earlier volumes in the series. These routes again range<br />

across the Highlands to provide a cross-secti<strong>on</strong> of route types<br />

and locati<strong>on</strong>s, with tedious and tiresome ascent routes avoided in<br />

favour of more rewarding ways up. Hence ‘Best’. As well as<br />

descripti<strong>on</strong>s of popular routes up popular mountains you’ll also<br />

find here descripti<strong>on</strong>s of interesting ways up less well-known<br />

mountains that will be a revelati<strong>on</strong> even to many experienced<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> hillwalkers.<br />

The temptati<strong>on</strong> to revisit favourite mountains from earlier<br />

volumes in order to describe other ascent routes has been resisted.<br />

All routes in this volume are brand new, with a greater c<strong>on</strong> centrati<strong>on</strong><br />

than before <strong>on</strong> the more accessible southern half of the<br />

country. Further route possibilities remain, of course, but given<br />

the number of mountains in Scotland, a worthwhile c<strong>on</strong>tinuati<strong>on</strong><br />

of the series would require a change to the route criteria. For<br />

instance, there are many fine routes <strong>on</strong> hills that do not meet the<br />

600m/2,000ft height criteri<strong>on</strong> cited in the Introducti<strong>on</strong>, notably<br />

in the Hebrides.<br />

17


<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

This Luath Press third editi<strong>on</strong> follows the 1998 first editi<strong>on</strong> and<br />

2005 sec<strong>on</strong>d editi<strong>on</strong> and is completely updated. If you think mountain<br />

routes wouldn’t change much in such a period of time, think again.<br />

Lower down, there are new paths, new vehicle tracks, new car parks<br />

with new starting points, new access arrangements (owing, for<br />

example, to increased afforestati<strong>on</strong> or changes in land owner ship)…<br />

Higher up, paths can either become worn, overgrown or dangerous,<br />

or be upgraded and made easier <strong>by</strong> path renovati<strong>on</strong> schemes.<br />

Here are some examples of changes that have occurred in recent<br />

years. Inverpolly lost its Nati<strong>on</strong>al Nature Reserve status in 2004<br />

(Route 41). The Land Rover track from Dalmunzie Hotel to<br />

Glenlochsie Farm has been paved (Route 43). There’s now a café<br />

at Auchtertyre Farm <strong>on</strong> the recommended route up Ben Challum<br />

(Route 6). The road to Achallader Farm now has a new car park<br />

and path (Route 7).<br />

A bulldozed Land Rover track has obliterated the fine old path<br />

up Glen Ure (Route 13). The path up Beinn Dubhchraig is now<br />

so eroded that it could do with being obliterated (Route 5). The<br />

original path described for the ascent of Sgor Gaoith is now so<br />

overgrown that it has necessitated a new approach route (Route 45).<br />

The original route to Beinn a’ Chaorainn is also overgrown and<br />

requires a new approach (Route 21).<br />

Am<strong>on</strong>g other changes, the Ordnance Survey has opted to Gaelicise<br />

some of its place-names. Examples in this book include changing<br />

Loch Einich to Loch Eanaich and Loch Quoich to Loch Cuaich<br />

(though Glen Quoich remains unaltered). Yet more annoyingly for<br />

guidebook writers, even the height of many mountains has changed,<br />

owing to improved surveying methods (including <strong>by</strong> satellite). All<br />

these changes have been reflected in this third editi<strong>on</strong>’s text and<br />

sketch maps.<br />

Another major development since the first two editi<strong>on</strong>s has been<br />

a reappraisal of access to Scotland’s countryside, not <strong>on</strong>ly in terms<br />

of statutory rights but also in terms of the willingness of landowners<br />

to countenance the presence of hillwalkers <strong>on</strong> their land.<br />

See Access notes in the Introducti<strong>on</strong>.<br />

18


preface to the third editi<strong>on</strong><br />

It’s also worth noting that more and more car parks at the start<br />

of routes are becoming pay-and-display, eg Glen Muick (Route 44)<br />

and Linn of Dee (Route 46), so keep a few £1 coins handy.<br />

The at-a-glance difficulty grids I pi<strong>on</strong>eered in <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

<strong>on</strong> <strong>Scottish</strong> <strong>Mountains</strong> are now comm<strong>on</strong>place in guidebooks. In<br />

this editi<strong>on</strong> they have been updated to reflect current c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s<br />

and they have also been improved slightly. Where a route has two<br />

(or more) opti<strong>on</strong>al lines of differing difficulty, eg up a crag or around<br />

it, the grid now reflects this with more than <strong>on</strong>e box infilled.<br />

Finally, may the routes presented herein c<strong>on</strong>tinue to bring you<br />

as much joy as they do the author.<br />

19


Introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

The <strong>Scottish</strong> Highlands<br />

the scottish highlands are characterised <strong>by</strong> a patchwork of<br />

mountains separated <strong>by</strong> deep glens, the result of glacial erosi<strong>on</strong> in<br />

the distant past. On a global scale the mountains reach an insignificant<br />

height, topping out at 1,344m/4,409ft <strong>on</strong> Ben Nevis. But<br />

in form they hold their own against any range in the world, many<br />

rising bold and beautiful from sea-level. For hillwalkers they<br />

have distinct advantages over higher mountain ranges: their<br />

height is ideal for day walks and glens give easy road access.<br />

Moreover, the variety of mountain forms and landscapes is<br />

arguably greater than in any mountainous area of equivalent size.<br />

This is due to many factors, notably differing regi<strong>on</strong>al geology,<br />

the sculpting influence of glaciati<strong>on</strong> and the proximity of the sea.<br />

There are no less than 282 mountains, called ‘Munros’, that are<br />

over 3,000ft/914m high. If they were much higher or more remote,<br />

mountain walking in Scotland would be an entirely different<br />

pursuit, requiring more time, more effort and more skill to climb<br />

the highest peaks, as is the case in the European Alps and American<br />

Rockies. We’re lucky to have so many accessible mountains.<br />

The 3,000ft peaks are named Munros after Sir Hugh Munro<br />

(1856–1919), the third President of the <strong>Scottish</strong> Mountaineering<br />

Club, who first listed them in the 1891 editi<strong>on</strong> of the <strong>Scottish</strong><br />

Mountaineering Club Journal. In a country with a highpoint of<br />

4,409ft the choice of 3,000ft as a cut-off point is aesthetically<br />

justifiable and gives a satisfying number of mountains. Despite<br />

metricati<strong>on</strong> of measurement in the 1970s, a metric cut-off point<br />

of 1,000m (3,280ft), giving a more humble 137 <strong>Mountains</strong>, has<br />

never captured the hillgoing public’s imaginati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

The original list, so<strong>on</strong> known as Munro’s Tables, was a substantial<br />

achievement in an age when mapping of the Highlands<br />

21


<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

was still rudimentary. In the years since, various developments<br />

have c<strong>on</strong>spired to prompt amendments to the Tables, including<br />

metricati<strong>on</strong>, improved surveying methods (most recently <strong>by</strong> sate l-<br />

lite), and a desire <strong>on</strong> the part of each succeeding generati<strong>on</strong> of<br />

Tables’ editors to reduce what they have regarded as ‘anomalies.’<br />

For example, the ‘mountain range in miniature’ of Beinn Eighe was<br />

awarded a sec<strong>on</strong>d Munro in 1997 to redress the balance with<br />

similar but over-endowed multi-topped ridges such as the seven-<br />

Munro South Glen Shiel Ridge.<br />

The original list c<strong>on</strong>tained 283 Munros. By 1981 that number<br />

had been reduced to 276, but in the latest Tables published <strong>by</strong> the<br />

smc in 1997 there were 284. Even that number had since changed,<br />

with satellite re-measurement causing Sgurr nan Ceannaichean<br />

(2009) and Beinn a’ Chlaidheimh (2012) to lose their status.<br />

And that’s not all. Part of the problem in devising the Tables<br />

is deciding when a summit is a separate mountain rather than the<br />

subsidiary top of a near<strong>by</strong> higher mountain. C<strong>on</strong>sider, for example,<br />

the problem of differentiating between separate mountains, sub sidiary<br />

tops and other highpoints <strong>on</strong> the Cairngorm plateaus, where<br />

every knoll surpasses 3,000ft. Cue pub discussi<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> distance and<br />

height differentials. Suffice to say that, as well as 282 Munros, there<br />

are also currently 226 further highpoints, known as ‘Tops’, that<br />

are over 3,000ft high but are not regarded as separate mountains<br />

in their own right.<br />

And that’s not all. There are many fine mountains, especially<br />

in the north and <strong>on</strong> the islands, that d<strong>on</strong>’t reach the magic 3,000ft<br />

mark. To cater for these, the 1921 editi<strong>on</strong> of the Tables also<br />

included J. Rooke Corbett’s list of mountains with heights between<br />

2,<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g>0ft/762m and 3,000ft/914m. These are now known as Corbetts<br />

and there are currently 222 of them.<br />

And that’s not all either, as there are some fine ‘mountains in<br />

miniature’ that d<strong>on</strong>’t even reach the 2,<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g>0ft mark, such as Stac<br />

Pollaidh in the Northern Highlands. Other mountain classificati<strong>on</strong><br />

systems exist to include these, but Munros and Corbetts are the<br />

traditi<strong>on</strong>al lists and give some idea of the wealth of adventure<br />

22


introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

that awaits the mountain walker in Scotland. <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Classic</str<strong>on</strong>g> <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

includes Munros, Corbetts and others, judging mountain routes<br />

<strong>by</strong> quality rather than height climbed.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

To give some order to the country’s geographical complexity, the<br />

Highlands are traditi<strong>on</strong>ally divided into six regi<strong>on</strong>s for hillwalking<br />

purposes: Southern Highlands, Central Highlands, Cairngorms,<br />

Western Highlands, Northern Highlands and Islands. These regi<strong>on</strong>s<br />

feature a great variety of scenery, but you’ll find amazing mountains<br />

to climb everywhere.<br />

The volumes in the Best <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> series c<strong>on</strong>tain a pers<strong>on</strong>al choice<br />

of the best walking and scrambling routes in this mountain playground,<br />

from short afterno<strong>on</strong> rambles to day-l<strong>on</strong>g expediti<strong>on</strong>s,<br />

from roadside summits to remote mountain sanctuaries, from<br />

gentle paths to kneebreakingly-steep hillsides, from hands-inpockets-whistle-while-you-walk<br />

strolls to thrilling scrambles.<br />

Any book of this nature begs the questi<strong>on</strong> ‘What c<strong>on</strong>stitutes<br />

best?’, for beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. Some walkers may<br />

prefer the vast windswept plateaus of the Cairngorms in winter,<br />

others the sharp peaks of Skye <strong>on</strong> a l<strong>on</strong>g summer gloaming. For<br />

the purposes of this series, the routes chosen are those I have found<br />

to be most enjoyable, would most want to repeat and would<br />

most recommend to newcomers, given the following criteria:<br />

1 A route must ascend a mountain over 2,000ft/600m. Although<br />

many of the finest mountains are Munros, this book does not<br />

neglect some superb smaller <strong>on</strong>es. Of the <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> routes described<br />

in this volume, 14 are <strong>on</strong> mountains under 3,000ft/914m.<br />

2 A route must c<strong>on</strong>tain no rock climbing, ie terrain <strong>on</strong> which a<br />

rope would normally be required for security. This does not<br />

exclude some scrambles <strong>on</strong> which walkers of a nervous dispositi<strong>on</strong><br />

would never venture – even with a safety net.<br />

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

3 For ease of access, a route must start from a place that can be<br />

reached <strong>by</strong> motorised transport (including a ferry if necessary<br />

<strong>on</strong> the west coast and islands) and end at the same place.<br />

4 A route must be able to be completed <strong>by</strong> walkers of reas<strong>on</strong>able<br />

fitness in a single day. No backpacking is required. This<br />

does not exclude some routes whose completi<strong>on</strong> may be<br />

impracticable in daylight in winter.<br />

Although the <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes in this guidebook represent a crosssecti<strong>on</strong><br />

of the six mountain regi<strong>on</strong>s of the Highlands, most are<br />

intenti<strong>on</strong>ally located in the Southern and Central Highlands and<br />

the Cairngorms, which are more accessible from the south of the<br />

country.<br />

The Southern Highlands 10 routes – <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 11 – 10<br />

The Central Highlands 11 routes – <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 11 – 21<br />

The Western Highlands 14 routes – <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 22 – 35<br />

The Northern Highlands 7 routes – <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 36 – 42<br />

The Cairngorms 6 routes – <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 43 – 48<br />

The Islands 2 routes – <str<strong>on</strong>g>Routes</str<strong>on</strong>g> 49 – <str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g><br />

Within each regi<strong>on</strong> routes are listed in approximately south-t<strong>on</strong>orth,<br />

west-to-east order.<br />

As with Munro’s Tables and Corbett’s List, the list of<br />

recommended routes has already provoked many hours of heated<br />

debate am<strong>on</strong>g colleagues, and may it c<strong>on</strong>tinue to do so am<strong>on</strong>g<br />

readers. Yet am<strong>on</strong>gst those who know and love the Highlands<br />

the amount of agreement is surprising. May the following pages<br />

help you explore and enjoy the <strong>Scottish</strong> mountains and, when<br />

you’re not <strong>on</strong> the hill, while away many an hour in planning,<br />

anticipati<strong>on</strong> and reflecti<strong>on</strong>.<br />

24


introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

Route Grid<br />

The overall difficulty of each route is shown in the form of an at-aglance<br />

route grid. Many accidents in the <strong>Scottish</strong> hills are caused<br />

<strong>by</strong> walkers attempting routes outside their capabilities and the grid<br />

is intended to enable a more realistic route appraisal.<br />

1 2 3 4 5<br />

GRADE<br />

TERRAIN<br />

NAVIGATION<br />

SERIOUSNESS<br />

X<br />

X<br />

X<br />

X<br />

Each route’s grid indicates its overall difficulty, where difficulty<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sists not <strong>on</strong>ly of grade (ie technical difficulty) but also type of<br />

terrain (irrespective of grade), difficulty of navigati<strong>on</strong> with a compass<br />

in adverse weather and seriousness (ie difficulty of escape in case<br />

of curtailment of route for <strong>on</strong>e reas<strong>on</strong> or another, based <strong>on</strong> criteria<br />

of length and restricted line of escape).<br />

These factors vary over the durati<strong>on</strong> of the route and should<br />

not be taken as absolute, but they provide a useful general guide<br />

and enable comparis<strong>on</strong>s to be made between routes. Each category<br />

is graded 1 (easiest) to 5 (hardest). New to this third editi<strong>on</strong>, the<br />

presence of more than <strong>on</strong>e infilled Grade box indicates opti<strong>on</strong>al<br />

lines of differing difficulty, eg up a crag or around it.<br />

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

26


introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

Grade<br />

1 Mostly good going<br />

Mainly <strong>on</strong> good paths or good terrain. There may be occasi<strong>on</strong>al<br />

steep or rough secti<strong>on</strong>s, but not for l<strong>on</strong>g.<br />

2 Appreciable awkward going<br />

Notably rough or steep terrain, perhaps prol<strong>on</strong>ged, but not<br />

involving handwork <strong>on</strong> rock.<br />

3 Minor handwork required<br />

Use of hands required <strong>on</strong> rock, e.g. for balance or a step-up,<br />

but not difficult or prol<strong>on</strong>ged enough to c<strong>on</strong>stitute scrambling.<br />

4 Easy scramble<br />

Includes <strong>on</strong>e or more secti<strong>on</strong>s that require movement <strong>on</strong> rock<br />

with good holds.<br />

5 Hard scramble<br />

One grade below a rock climb for which a rope would normally<br />

be required. Compared to g4, holds are often smaller and<br />

exposure is often greater.<br />

Note: Some guidebooks misleadingly include roped rock climbs<br />

as ‘scrambles’. This guidebook does not.<br />

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

1 Excellent, often <strong>on</strong> paths<br />

2 Good<br />

3 Reas<strong>on</strong>able<br />

4 Rough<br />

5 Tough<br />

Terrain<br />

Navigati<strong>on</strong><br />

1 Straightforward<br />

2 Reas<strong>on</strong>ably straightforward<br />

3 Appreciable accuracy required<br />

4 Hard<br />

5 Extremely hard<br />

Seriousness<br />

1 Straightforward escape<br />

2 Reas<strong>on</strong>ably straightforward escape<br />

3 Appreciable seriousness<br />

4 Serious<br />

5 Very serious<br />

Route Assessment<br />

A brief Assessment is provided for each route to give an indicati<strong>on</strong><br />

of what to expect during summer c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s. Under snow,<br />

<strong>Scottish</strong> mountains become much more serious propositi<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

28


introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

Seas<strong>on</strong>s and Weather<br />

From a hillwalking perspective, the Highland year has two seas<strong>on</strong>s:<br />

the snow seas<strong>on</strong> and the no-snow seas<strong>on</strong>. The length of<br />

these seas<strong>on</strong>s varies from year to year and from place to place.<br />

From May to September, snow is rarely a problem. Historically,<br />

May and June have the greatest number of sunny days, with the<br />

air at its clearest. July and August are the hottest m<strong>on</strong>ths but are<br />

also more pr<strong>on</strong>e to rain and haze, not to menti<strong>on</strong> that blight <strong>on</strong><br />

the landscape, the Highland midge. The biting seas<strong>on</strong> begins in<br />

mid to late June and lasts until the first chills of late September.<br />

By October it is colder, the hills get their first dusting of winter<br />

snow and good days are few and far between.<br />

The m<strong>on</strong>ths from November to April, though sometimes earlier<br />

and later, are characterised <strong>by</strong> short days, cold and snow. March<br />

and April are transiti<strong>on</strong> m<strong>on</strong>ths, with little or lots of snow. In<br />

some years, snow can last into early summer and be a nuisance<br />

<strong>on</strong> some routes. If you are unequipped for it, turn back. Snow is<br />

more treacherous to descend than ascend, and spring snow often<br />

has a crystalline quality that makes it behave like ball-bearings.<br />

In a normal winter (whatever that is, these days), c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s<br />

vary from British to Alpine to Arctic. An easy summer route can<br />

be made life-threatening <strong>by</strong> icy c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s and severe winter<br />

weather. Paths are obliterated, grassy hillsides become treacherous<br />

slopes, ridges become corniced, st<strong>on</strong>e shoots become snow gullies,<br />

walking becomes more difficult and tiring, terrain becomes featureless<br />

in adverse weather, and white-outs and spindrift reduce<br />

visibility to zero.<br />

On a clear winter’s day the <strong>Scottish</strong> mountains have an Alpine<br />

quality that makes for unforgettable days out, but no-<strong>on</strong>e should<br />

attempt a Munro in winter without adequate clothing and equipment<br />

(including ice-axe and cramp<strong>on</strong>s), and experience (or the<br />

company of an experienced pers<strong>on</strong>). The number of accidents, some<br />

of them fatal, that occur in the Highlands every winter should<br />

leave no doubt as to the need for cauti<strong>on</strong>.<br />

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

Bearing these points in mind, the Seas<strong>on</strong>al Notes for each route<br />

indicate any specific places where particular difficulties may be<br />

encountered, thus enabling the walker to be better prepared. Where<br />

an easier escape route presents itself this also is noted.<br />

Weather forecasts<br />

www.mwis.org.uk<br />

www.metoffice.gov.uk<br />

www.mountain-forecast.com<br />

www.metcheck.com/HOBBIES/mountain.asp<br />

www.sais.gov.uk (snow c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s)<br />

Webcams may be available for specific locati<strong>on</strong>s. Try a web search.<br />

Sketch maps<br />

Sketch maps show each route’s major features but are not intended<br />

for use <strong>on</strong> the hill. Ordnance Survey 1:<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g>,000 Landranger maps are<br />

suitable for most <strong>Scottish</strong> mountain walking, including the routes<br />

in this guidebook. os 1:25,000 Explorer maps show more detail<br />

but more than <strong>on</strong>e be may be required to cover whole routes.<br />

Harveys also publish 1:40,000 maps of the more popular areas.<br />

Beside each sketch map is indicated the number of the 1:<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g>,000<br />

map <strong>on</strong> which the route appears and the grid reference of the route’s<br />

starting point (eg Route 1: os 56, nn 319151). Some routes overlap<br />

two os maps (eg Route 25: os 40/41) and others appear <strong>on</strong> either<br />

of two or more maps (eg Route 21: os: 34 or 41/42). The classificati<strong>on</strong><br />

of mountains as Munros or Tops is based <strong>on</strong> the 1997<br />

editi<strong>on</strong> of Munro’s Tables plus unpublished revisi<strong>on</strong>s made since.<br />

30


introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

Measurements<br />

Route distances are specified in both miles (to the nearest half-mile)<br />

and kilometres (to the nearest kilometre). Short distances in the<br />

text are specified in metres (an approximate imperial measurement<br />

is yards).<br />

Mountain heights are specified in metres and feet. Metric heights<br />

have been obtained from the latest os 1:<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g>,000 maps. Equivalent<br />

heights in feet have been obtained <strong>by</strong> multiplying the height in<br />

metres <strong>by</strong> 3.281. These may not tally with heights <strong>on</strong> old os <strong>on</strong>einch-to-<strong>on</strong>e-mile<br />

maps, which were obtained from an earlier survey.<br />

The total amount of ascent for the whole route is specified to the<br />

nearest 10m (<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g>ft). This is an approximati<strong>on</strong> based <strong>on</strong> os map<br />

heights and c<strong>on</strong>tours, which are shown at 10m intervals and are<br />

in many instances omitted because of cartographic complexity.<br />

The total may be greater than that in other guidebooks that do<br />

not take dips and undulati<strong>on</strong>s into account, especially <strong>on</strong> descent.<br />

Route times (to the nearest half-hour) are based <strong>on</strong> the time it<br />

should take a pers<strong>on</strong> of reas<strong>on</strong>able fitness to complete the route<br />

in good summer c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s. They take into account length of<br />

route, amount of ascent, technical difficulty, type of terrain and<br />

short stoppages, but do not make allowances for l<strong>on</strong>g stoppages<br />

and adverse weather. They will be too short for some people and<br />

too l<strong>on</strong>g for others, but they are roughly standard between routes<br />

for comparis<strong>on</strong> purposes and can be adjusted where necessary <strong>by</strong><br />

a factor appropriate to the individual.<br />

In winter, routes will normally take much l<strong>on</strong>ger, depending <strong>on</strong><br />

snow and ice c<strong>on</strong>diti<strong>on</strong>s. A pre-dawn start is often necessary and<br />

some of the l<strong>on</strong>ger routes are best tackled as two-day expediti<strong>on</strong>s,<br />

camping or bivvying en route or making use of a bothy.<br />

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<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

Mountain names<br />

Most Highland names are Gaelic in origin and the ability to pr<strong>on</strong>ounce<br />

and understand Gaelic names can add much to the pleasure<br />

of walking in Scotland. To this end a guide to the pr<strong>on</strong>unciati<strong>on</strong><br />

and meaning of all mountain names and many other physical<br />

features named in the text is provided in a Glossary.<br />

The producti<strong>on</strong> of such a guide is made difficult <strong>by</strong> a number<br />

of factors. os maps, despite their otherwise excellence, have often<br />

been named <strong>by</strong> Sassenachs. They abound in Gaelic misspellings,<br />

misunderstandings, misuses and misplacements. With some<br />

misgivings, the os spelling has been retained for the purpose of<br />

standardisati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

The names are correct at the time of writing but are subject to<br />

change, not <strong>on</strong>ly to correct mistakes but also because of a Gaelic<br />

revisi<strong>on</strong>ist policy. In recent years, for instance, Glen Einich has<br />

become Gleann Eanaich (Route 45). More c<strong>on</strong>troversially, Loch<br />

Quoich is now named Loch Cuaich <strong>on</strong> os maps, although it is still<br />

known as Loch Quoich to its owners and Glen Quoich remains<br />

unchanged (see note for Route 30).<br />

Some os misspellings make pr<strong>on</strong>unciati<strong>on</strong> impossible. Coire<br />

Sgreumh (Route 35), for instance, is possibly a misspelling of Coire<br />

Sgreamh (meaning ‘disgust’, and perhaps referring to the corrie’s<br />

agricultural worthlessness). Any attempt at a direct pr<strong>on</strong>un ciati<strong>on</strong><br />

would be ludicrous.<br />

In additi<strong>on</strong> some names have become Anglicised to such an<br />

extent that it would be pedantic to enforce a purist pr<strong>on</strong>unciati<strong>on</strong><br />

<strong>on</strong> a n<strong>on</strong>-Gaelic speaker; eg the correct pr<strong>on</strong>unciati<strong>on</strong> of Ben is<br />

something akin to ‘pane’, with a soft n as in the first syllable of<br />

<strong>on</strong>i<strong>on</strong>. Moreover, pr<strong>on</strong>unciati<strong>on</strong> differs, sometimes markedly,<br />

through out the Highlands and Islands.<br />

Despite these problems the ph<strong>on</strong>etic guide given in the Glossary<br />

should enable a good attempt at a pr<strong>on</strong>unciati<strong>on</strong> that would be<br />

intelligible to a Gaelic speaker. In c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong> with the guide, the<br />

following points should be noted:<br />

32


introducti<strong>on</strong><br />

Y before a vowel pr<strong>on</strong>ounced as in you<br />

OW pr<strong>on</strong>ounced as in town<br />

CH pr<strong>on</strong>ounced as in <strong>Scottish</strong> loch (not English lock)<br />

TCH pr<strong>on</strong>ounced as ch in church<br />

OE pr<strong>on</strong>ounced as in French oeuf or the u in turn<br />

Top<strong>on</strong>ymy (the study of place-name meanings) is complicated <strong>by</strong><br />

os misspellings, changes in spelling and word usage over the centuries,<br />

words with more than <strong>on</strong>e meaning, and unknown origin of<br />

names (Gaelic, Norse, Irish etc). For example, c<strong>on</strong>sider the origin of<br />

the name Sgurr Cos na Breachd-laoidh (Route 27 and Glossary).<br />

Meanings given in this book are the most comm<strong>on</strong>ly accepted,<br />

even if disputed. When the meaning is doubtful it is annotated<br />

with ‘poss’ (ie possible). Some names are too obscure to be given<br />

any meaning.<br />

Access<br />

Land access was revoluti<strong>on</strong>ised <strong>by</strong> The Land Reform (Scotland)<br />

Act 2003 and the accompanying <strong>Scottish</strong> Outdoor Access Code<br />

(2005), which created a statutory right of resp<strong>on</strong>sible access for<br />

outdoor recreati<strong>on</strong>. It is recommended that any<strong>on</strong>e walking in<br />

the <strong>Scottish</strong> countryside familiarise himself/herself with the Code,<br />

which explains rights and resp<strong>on</strong>sibilities in detail. Further informati<strong>on</strong>:<br />

www.outdooraccess-scotland.com.<br />

In summary, every<strong>on</strong>e has a statutory right of access, but:<br />

• Take resp<strong>on</strong>sibility for your acti<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

• Respect people’s privacy and peace of mind.<br />

• Help land managers and others to work safely and effectively.<br />

• Care for the envir<strong>on</strong>ment.<br />

33


<str<strong>on</strong>g>50</str<strong>on</strong>g> classic routes <strong>on</strong> scottish mountains<br />

Deer stalking c<strong>on</strong>siderati<strong>on</strong>s: Notwithstanding the new access<br />

legislati<strong>on</strong>, much of the <strong>Scottish</strong> Highlands is privately owned,<br />

with deer-stalking an important seas<strong>on</strong>al activity. Whatever <strong>on</strong>e’s<br />

ethical stance <strong>on</strong> stalking, the fact remains that it provides muchneeded<br />

revenue for the local ec<strong>on</strong>omy. If revenue is lost because<br />

of interference with stalking activities, estates may be forced to<br />

turn to afforestati<strong>on</strong> or worse, which would disadvantage local<br />

ec<strong>on</strong>omies, increase access problems and irreparably alter the landscape.<br />

In short, n<strong>on</strong>-compliance with stalking restricti<strong>on</strong>s is likely<br />

to be counter-productive and cause aggravati<strong>on</strong> for all c<strong>on</strong>cerned.<br />

The red stag stalking seas<strong>on</strong> runs from 1 July to 20 October<br />

but actual dates vary from locality to locality. Access notices dot<br />

the roadside and informati<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> stalking activities can be obtained<br />

from estate offices and head stalkers.<br />

An increasing number of estates c<strong>on</strong>tribute to the Hillph<strong>on</strong>es<br />

service, which provides daily recorded messages of where stalking<br />

is taking place so that walkers can avoid those areas. An altern a-<br />

tive route is usually provided. Further informati<strong>on</strong> can be found<br />

<strong>on</strong> the Outdoor Access website → Practical Guide → Heading for<br />

the <strong>Scottish</strong> Hills.<br />

It is worth noting that there is no stalking <strong>on</strong> a Sunday and that<br />

land bel<strong>on</strong>ging to public bodies such as the Nati<strong>on</strong>al Trust for<br />

Scotland and the John Muir Trust is normally not subject to stalking<br />

restricti<strong>on</strong>s. See main text for specific access c<strong>on</strong>siderati<strong>on</strong>s.<br />

34

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