FEBRUARY 2023

CULTURE & HISTORY
Tea is served in Iraq in a small glass cup known as
Istikan; British soldiers in India during the colonial
period would take these home with them as gifts. To
distinguish between the Indian tea and the traditional
English cup of tea, the cup of Indian tea was called
“east-tea-can,” a name made from three words that
explain the origin of the mug: east + tea + can (pot).
The Iraqis combined the three words into one word
for ease, to become “Istikan;” the word spread in cafes,
neighborhoods, and homes very quickly. There
are other stories about the evolution of the term, but
this is the most believable.
When Pope Francis visited Iraq in March 2021, the
pontiff made a point of drinking Iraqi tea from an Istikan.
Al Shabander Tea House in Baghdad, Iraq.
Tea drinking rituals
One of the loudest sounds that can be heard as one
wanders in the markets and streets of old neighborhoods
in any Iraqi city is the sound of a teaspoon “Khashoo-ga”
ringing in the famous Iraqi Istikan. This
distinctive and well-known sound is due to the lightness
of the glass resounding when the small teaspoon
made of copper or aluminum is struck by it.
The importance of tea for the Iraqis appears in
the spread of tea sellers everywhere within the cities;
some of them are wanderers and others make small
kiosks on the sidewalks, between shops, and in the
markets to prepare and sell tea. A common sight in
Iraqi cities is to see people standing on the sidewalks
drinking tea from street vendors.
People are keen to serve tea after main meals or in
the afternoon hours with biscuits, cookies, or cakes.
Many Iraqis feel if they do not drink tea in the morning
at breakfast, they are subject to headaches and
dizziness throughout the day.
In the old days, café customers used to call out to
the worker, “Jeeb Chai for the Ustath” (“bring tea for the
gentleman”). Another would say, “I want it from Ras al-
Quori” (“direct from the tip of the pot—very hot”).
​There are several ways to drink tea in Iraq. Some
drink it with sugar, but in some areas of the Kurdistan
Region it is enjoyed in a way called “dashlameh,” or
bitter tea. The person who drinks it places a cube of
sugar under their tongue, a method that is common
in Iran and practiced in Iraq until recently.
Tea has social rules much like coffee; it can literally
measure the degree of respect for any visitor. If a
guest in the home or workplace is not offered a cup of
tea, it is considered a lack of warmth and welcome,
perhaps ignorance or even disrespect. In return, if
the guest refuses to drink the served tea, or returns
it, this indicates anger or an unfulfilled request. The
homeowner must serve a fully filled Istikan of tea;
otherwise, it means a detraction from honoring the
guest. It is natural for the guest to take two cups of
tea in one visit.
Tea occupies an important position in social gatherings,
not only as a hospitality drink, but as a social
mediator around which discussions of important
social matters revolve, such as concluding peace in
a disputed case, paying debts, mediation, reconciliation
or submitting marriage proposals.
There are traditions when serving tea which can
cause big problems for the host if the one who serves
the tea is not familiar with them. For instance, the
serving must start from the oldest or highest-ranking
person, then turn the presentation from the right until
the teacups are placed and served to everyone.
The spoon is especially important when serving
tea. It must be placed on the plate, and it is forbidden
to put it inside the serving mug; otherwise, it will
be considered a serious offense to the guest and can
lead to a major dispute, especially if there is a clan
problem that requires final resolution.
Iraqi women have their own rituals for drinking
tea, especially an inherited daily ritual called the afternoon
tea. “Chai al-Abbas” is considered one of the
most famous women’s rituals in Iraq. It is an invitation
to drink tea offered by women when God fulfills
their wishes, which are often related to children.
Sometimes, forgetting or ignoring some of these
traditions entails measures of consolation and an
apology from the homeowner or the host to their
guests.
From the first sip to the last drop, you’ll love the
distinctive flavor of Iraqi tea. It is a romantic script
about a worldly beverage written by tea leaves, played
by a cast of sugar cubes, Quori, Kittlee, Istikans, and
Khashoogas, supported by tea lovers and directed by
an Iraqi tea master called Chai-Chi.
Sources include Wikipedia, articles by Salah Hassan
Baban, Mayada Daoud, Munier Al-Habbobi, Karrar
Ali, Raid Jaafar Mutter, Amr Ahmmed, Mohammed
Khalil Gattan, Aisha Al-Ghamdi, Aseel Ferman,
Karam Saadi, Wafaa Elyan and Dr. Subhi Shehadeh
Al-Eid. Special editing by Jacqueline Raxter.
26 CHALDEAN NEWS FEBRUARY 2023