NETHERLANDS GUIDE

Amersfoort.

THE NETHERLANDS IN 2020

The ultimate destination

From world-class exhibitions to gourmet experiences, not to mention stunning nature

and unspoiled beaches, the Netherlands has it all, whatever the season. Get ready

for your next trip with our jam-packed 2020 tourism and culture guide.

TEXT: ANNA VILLELEGER | PHOTOS: NBTC

Leeuwarden.

28 | Issue 71 | November 2019

Discover Benelux | The Netherlands in 2020 | The Ultimate Destination

There are so many wonderful regions of the

Netherlands that it can be difficult to know

where to begin. Well, how about right at

the top – in Friesland? This unspoilt northerly

province boasts breathtaking coastal

nature, not to mention the must-visit city

of Leeuwarden. The capital of the province

of Friesland, it has everything from

vibrant shopping areas and cultural gems

to great nightlife. There are also more than

600 monuments, so history buffs will not

be disappointed, either!

Picturesque

Next on your list should be Amersfoort, an

attractive city to the west of Amsterdam

which is full of history. Admire the city’s

well-maintained medieval buildings as you

stroll the beautiful and compact city centre.

You can also enjoy walking by the picturesque

canals and sampling local specialties

in the city’s many charming cafés

and restaurants.

Leeuwarden.

Heading into the centre of the

Netherlands, the municipality of

Vijfheerenlanden is full of hidden gems.

Meaning literally ‘lands of five Lords’,

the municipality was created on 1 Janu-

ary 2019, through the merger of the former

municipalities of Vianen, Leerdam

and Zederik. There’s plenty to see and

do, with countless historical monuments

and scenic towns aplenty.

History

Also bursting with history is Nijmegen,

a fascinating city in the province of

Gelderland. Located close to the

German border, Nijmegen is the oldest

city in the Netherlands, and in 2005 celebrated

2,000 years of existence. Nijmegen

and its surroundings form the perfect

backdrop for hiking, cycling, and running.

An annual highlight is the ‘Vierdaagse’

(Four Days March), which draws hikers

from around the world every year.

Down in the south of the Netherlands, lies

the peaceful municipality of Halderberge.

There is so much to see, enjoy and do,

whether you want to visit monumental

buildings or go hiking amid the wonderful

countryside.

The great outdoors

Meanwhile, don’t miss the opportunity to

see Goeree-Overflakkee, the southernmost

delta island of the province of South

Holland. With expanses of dunes and

sandy beaches, not to mention beautiful

nature reserves, Goeree-Overflakkee is a

paradise for lovers of the great outdoors.

Leeuwarden.

Discover more about the top places to

visit in the Netherlands from page 32.

Issue 71 | November 2019 | 29


Beach Noordwijk.

Beach Noordwijk.



Rembrandt-Velázquez. Photo: Olivier Middendorp

DATES FOR YOUR DIARY

Daan Roosegaarde – Presence

Until 12 January 2020

Groninger Museum, Groningen

This must-see exhibition is Roosegaarde’s first

major museum solo project, with the creative

developing a new groundbreaking interactive

artwork especially for the Groninger Museum.

Unlike many exhibitions, which demand that art

should be viewed from a distance, this inspiring

installation encourages physical interaction.

Young Rembrandt

3 November 2019 – 9 February 2020

Museum de Lakenhal, Leiden

This exhibition will show how Rembrandt’s

incredible talent grew during the period 1624

to1634. Young Rembrandt will be presented

in the completely restored and renovated

Museum de Lakenhal (which was officially

opened by King Willem-Alexander back in

June).

Thierry Mugler

Until 8 March 2020

Kunsthal, Rotterdam

The Kunsthal presents the first exhibition to

showcase the work of French fashion designer

Thierry Mugler, with an array of haute couture

creations, documents and photographs

on display. Mugler’s designs are renowned for

incorporating a variety of elements from fashion

history and the punk movement.

Rembrandt-Velásquez

Until 19 January 2020

Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

Admire an overview of paintings by the two

great masters of the 17th century from Holland

and Spain at the unique Rembrandt-Velásquez

exhibition. Thanks to a collaboration between

the Museo del Prado and the Rijksmuseum,

the Spanish and Dutch masterpieces will be

showcased in pairs.

Pieter de Hooch in Delft:

From the shadow of Vermeer

Until 16 February 2020

This is the first retrospective exhibition in

Holland of the work of the famous 17thcentury

painter Pieter de Hooch. Among

the works on loan are many famous paintings,

such as the exhibition’s key work The

Courtyard of a House in Delft (1658), from the

National Gallery in London.

Read about more must-see art and culture

spots from page 52.

Rembrandt-Velázquez.

Photo: Olivier Middendorp


Photo: Erikjan Koopmans

LEEUWARDEN

‘You never stop being

a European Capital of Culture’

TEXT: ARNE ADRIAENSSENS

The province of Friesland, in the upper

north corner of the Netherlands,

is amongst the prettiest regions in the

country. Its water-infused landscapes,

pure coastline and breathtaking isles

have been attracting tourists for decades.

Last year, however, Leeuwarden

put the region on the map as a cultural

Walhalla when it became the European

Capital of Culture. And the spirit of

that festive year still lingers in the

city’s streets.

Friesland has always received its fair share

of tourists. The stunning Frisian Isles are

the ideal spot for a brisk, windy stroll and

the North Sea’s wild waves are a true

sirens’ call to sailors who want to conquer

the open sea. “The tourism we had

was almost exclusively focused on the

region’s unique natural beauty,” explains

Sjoerd Feitsma, alderman of culture and

marketing of Leeuwarden, the capital of

the Northern-Dutch province. “But that

changed in 2018 when our city became

the European Capital of Culture.”

Art and biodiversity

Every year, the European Union grants one

city the honour of being the cultural epicentre

of the continent for a year. In 2018, the

commission chose Leeuwarden (and with

it, the entire province of Friesland) to inspire

and amaze Europe. “At first, Leeuwarden

might seem like an odd choice, as we are

an intimate city of just over 120,000 citizens,

but culture is strongly entangled in

our Frisian DNA. Every year, Leeuwarden

hosts plenty of festivals, featuring music,

literature, performances, visual arts and

much more. On top of that, the Frisian

people strongly preserve the region’s folklore,

traditions and crafts. This synergy between

the modern city and its rich history

gives Leeuwarden a unique and authentic

atmosphere.”

Yet, the main reason for the European

committee to opt for Leeuwarden as

its cultural ambassador was the city’s

thought-through and layered plan on


Discover Benelux | Top Places to Visit in the Netherlands in 2020 | The Ultimate Destination

11 Fountains. Photo: Wietze Landman

how to give shape to that cultural year.

Not only was it packed full of the best

Frisian, Dutch, European and international

cultural events, but it also had an interesting,

socially engaged undertone. “One

of the main themes of our programme

was biodiversity. 120 years ago, the

Netherlands had one of the most diverse

biotopes of Europe. Today, you find our

country at the other end of the spectrum,

with those places in which biodiversity is

the most endangered. By hosting such a

big European project, we wanted to raise

awareness for this problem and inspire

people in all corners of Europe to help

to change the tide. Because, like here in

the Netherlands, many other biospheres

in Europe are now jeopardised. And art

and culture are a perfect medium to put

these topics into the spotlight.”

11 fountains

Blokhuispoort. Photo: IMAZZO

Those who visit Leeuwarden and the

beautiful region around it today will surely

stumble upon plenty of tangible souvenirs

of that year-long festival of culture.

Most obvious are the 11 beautiful fountains

which you can find in the 11 historic

cities of the province. In the days of yore,

these beautiful towns and their connection

by streams and rivers were vital for

the trade – and therefore the progression

– of the region. By placing a fountain in

each of these cities, they are once more

connected through water. “The design of

these 11 bubblers is made by 11 international

artists who all belong to the topthree

artists in their respective countries

today. In front of Leeuwarden’s train station,

the Spanish sculptor Jaume Plensa

constructed Love, two giant statues of a

couple, rooted in a sea of steam.”

The Giants. Photo: Marc de Fotograaf

The Giants. Photo: Marc de Fotograaf



Photo: Lieuwe Terpstra

Triennale of Leeuwarden

Aside from these sculptures, the city also

hosts plenty of cultural events. Most of

these happenings are not new, though,

but since last year, they have managed

to attract a bigger audience and better

artists. “November is the city’s traditional

festival month. In the autumn weather,

we host a film festival, a literature and

music festival focusing on the north of

the Netherlands and the North of Europe,

and plenty of other heart-warming events.

We even have a so-called ‘nuit blanche’:

a night of art in the unlikeliest of places.

Besides professional artists, we also invite

art students to take the stage here. As a

city, we want to give our youth as many

chances as we can.”

For the city’s biggest event, we will have

to wait until 2022, when the first edition of

the Triennale of Leeuwarden will be organised.

This triannual event is designed to

keep the spirit of the European Capital of

Culture alive. During this big, multidisciplinary

event, national and international talents

will present their works around a common

theme. “In 2022, that theme will be

‘life at the bottom of the sea’, with which

we refer to the early days of Friesland

and the Dutch polder culture which gave

it its shape.” In 2028, the Triennale will be

even bigger, to celebrate the tenth anniversary

of Leeuwarden’s magical cultural

year. “It is important to keep that cultural

spirit alive in the city. Because once you

are named a European Capital of Culture,

you never stop being one. You carry that

legacy forever.”

Photo: Marc de Fotograaf

Major conferences

Besides an amazing city for tourists,

Leeuwarden is also a great location to

host your event or conference. In the last

few years, major events like the worldwide

WTC conference and the ICAR

summit about circular economy were

organised in Leeuwarden. “Normally, big

gatherings like these take place in major

cities like London or New York. Yet,

the big advantage of Leeuwarden is its

walkable size. The activities take place

in professional seminar halls, conference

rooms and reception venues in all corners

of the city but they are still in walking

distance from each other. In between



Into the Grave. Photo: Bart Lindenhovius

Writer’s Block Mural Art Festival.

Photo: Simon van der Woude

sessions, the participants can enjoy a relaxing

walk to the venue of its next activity.”

Combined with the multitude of great

hotels around and the picture-perfect

backdrop that is the old city, this unique

quality makes Leeuwarden very popular

among businesses and event planners.

On top of that, the university and research

centres of Friesland have expertise galore

in the respective fields of maritime

technology, dairy and circularity. With its

open sea, rural landscapes and strong

will to preserve nature, these three fields

are studied in both theory and practice

here, making Friesland the front runner

in all three of them. “During our time as

the European Capital of Culture, we also

made connections between these scientific

fields and art, uplifting both disciplines.

To us, they are not each other’s

opposites but rather two strong ways to

solve problems. In Friesland, science and

culture go hand in hand, striving for their

common goals.”

Web: www.visitleeuwarden.com


VIJFHEERENLANDEN

The heart of the Netherlands:

Beauty between the Lek and Linge

TEXT: LAUREN WALKER | PHOTOS: GEMEENTE VIJFHEERENLANDEN

In the heart of the Netherlands flow

two rivers, the Lek and Linge, forming

natural borders which embrace a

blooming region. When looking at a

map of the area, the northern border

is marked by the Lek and one of the

area’s largest cities, Vianen. Drawing

a straight line down, your finger would

meet Leerdam, which is geographically

located on the banks of the river

Linge, hugging the municipality’s

southern border.

Between these two waterways, you will

find countless attractions, from the beautiful

water landscapes to forts which

have been transformed into breweries.

Known as the ‘Green Heart’ of the

Netherlands, it showcases some of the

most scenic cycling paths and walking

routes in the country. Here, you can discover

historical monuments and landmarks,

and enjoy bird-spotting in the

fantastic Zouweboezem natural parks.

The historical Vianen

Less than half an hour from Utrecht, one

of the country’s oldest cities, lies the

historical Vianen. It is known for having

over 190 national-listed monuments,

which you will find on every other street

corner. Most significantly, in the city’s old

town you can explore its medieval history

and the significant defences such as

the moat, the original city walls and the

Lekpoort, which dates to the 15th century.

Plan your visit to collide with one of

the city’s many activity days, such as the

‘Horse Market’ or the ‘old-timer’ day. Or

simply venture to the ambiant and buzzing

Voorstraat and enjoy a cold drink

whilst taking in the beautiful architecture

of Vianen’s many listed buildings.

Fortified beer

Is one drink not enough? How about trying

a cold beer straight from the source? To

the east of Vianen lies Fort Everdingen, a



tower fort which was built in 1847 as part

of the New Dutch waterline by the Lek.

At one time it protected the river dikes

from territorial ambushes. Now it is home

to the Duits & Lauret brewery, where craft

brews are produced on the banks of the

water. Visit the tasting studio or relax on

the fort’s terrace to try the local speciality.

The site also boasts several attractions of

military-importance for visitors to discover.

Fortresses of the

New Dutch Waterline

Explore more of this mass fortification

defence line, around which Amsterdam

and Utrecht are located. It is formed by

over 45 fortresses and is 135 kilometres

in circumference and has a protected

status as a National Heritage Site. These

Photo: Hans van Vrouwerf

Fort Everdingen.

fortresses, which tell the age-old story of

water as a means of defence, will appear

while discovering the region’s pathways.

Uiterwaarden.

Bird-spotting

Between the two major cities lies one of

the most beautiful and relatively undiscovered

nature reserves in the area, the Zouweboezem.

Mainly known for its cane-field

grounds, it also showcases an impressive

assortment of flora and is the home of several

marsh birds, including the largest colony

of purple herons in the Netherlands. The

recently built wetland boardwalks allow visitors

to get up close to the cane fields and

the diverse birds you will find there.



Royal Leerdam Crystal.

Photo: Rederij Leerdam

Vianen.

Zouweboezem.

Life by the water

This area is known for its water

landscapes, polders and rivers, the Lek

and the Linge, which have a magnetic

effect on tourists and locals. The waters

are a great way to explore the region,

either by boat or by walking or cycling

on the pathways next to the streams,

allowing you to visit the many significant

sites located near the water, such as

the dam in Hagestein. You can even

camp beside the flowing beds at Fort

Everdingen.

Holey Leerdammer!

Most non-Dutch people would think of

the creamy white cheese when hearing

the word Leerdam, with most of the

cheese produced at the city’s factory

being exported abroad. Tourists hoping

to try some of the holey produce will

be accommodated at the Leerdammer

Cheese tasting room in the heart of

the city. Sample six different types of

cheese alongside two delicious local

beers, whilst learning more about the

products and their history.



Leerdam: not cheese, but glass!

Leerdam is recognised by the Dutch as

the country’s glass city. The industry settled

here in 1765 and is the only remaining

city in the country where visitors can

view the artisan craft of glassblowing.

Whilst wandering around the city, it is apparent

that this industry is central to the

community. In the city’s south, right on

the banks of the Linge, lies the National

Glass Museum, with its own glassworks,

where visitors can see glass artists at

work first-hand, creating the most beautiful

works from hot liquid glass. To witness

the traditional craft of crystal glass

blowing, take a tour at the city’s Royal

Leerdam Crystal, the only place in the

country where crystal is blown by mouth.

The attraction is moving from the 1878

Kristalfabriek to a new location in 2020.

The city’s many glass galleries, including

that of famous Dutch artist Bernard

Heesen, also showcase modern examples

of the glass artworks.

Photo: Lekpoort Vianen

Fast-track visit

If you are an avid biker and want to

enjoy the beautiful and idyllic scenery

by the dwindling rivers, the newly built

53-kilometre bike route is the way to

go. It connects both major cities and

takes you to Everdingen and through

the calming Zouweboezem, whilst

allowing you to discover old farms and

other unique locations. A great way to

explore the whole region.

For more information visit:

leerdamglasstad.nl and vrijstadvianen.nl

Photo: Nationaal Glasmuseum

Photo: Herman Suiskind


Koppelpoort. Photo: Sjoerd Mouissie

AMERSFOORT

History and hip hotspots in the same city

TEXT: DEBBY GROOTEMAN | PHOTOS: MARISA BROEKHUIZEN

A beautiful historical city centre, lively

squares and hip hotspots are just

some of the reasons Amersfoort is

worth a visit. Located in the middle of

the Netherlands, the city is easily accessible

by car and train. And with a

calendar full with events and festivals,

there is always something going on,

whatever the season.

Local Koen Overeem was born and

raised in Amersfoort. He is now the owner

of Rock City Brewery. “The name was

inspired by the history of the city. The

nickname of Amersfoort is ‘boulder city’.

History says that a squire challenged his

friends to bring a very large boulder over

a distance of around ten kilometres from

Soesterberg to Amersfoort by hand. They

succeeded and this was celebrated with

lots of food and beer.” Nowadays, that famous

boulder is displayed along the city

centre ring.

There are five main attributes that distinguish

Amersfoort from other cities, and

Overeem is undoubtedly the perfect person

to speak about them: “Amersfoort

has a rich history with beer. At one time,

the breweries here were even bigger than

Heineken. Beer culture is part of the city’s

DNA. And there is a great connection with

all the hospitality and welcoming terraces

that can be found in the city. For tourists

who are looking for something more than

just a canal tour – although this can, of

course, also be done here – Amersfoort

has many things to offer.”

A beautiful city centre full of history

The first thing distinguishing Amersfoort

from other cities is its beautiful city centre,

full of history. One of the great things is

that the old city wall is still visible. This was

previously used as a protection against

enemies. Overeem explains: “Since

Amersfoort was a beer city, one of the

things that was thrown over the wall



against intruders was the beer they were

brewing at that moment. Inside the walls,

there are old mansions that are still being

lived in. The surroundings are a lovely spot

for a walk.” One of the top attractions in

Amersfoort is the old tower. “In the old

days, a church was connected to the

tower. However, the gunpowder that was

being stored there caught fire and burned

down the whole church. Nowadays, only

the contours of the church are visible, but

the tower is still standing. From the top

you can admire a great view across the

centre of the Netherlands.”

Lively squares

“The old town of Amersfoort housed

a lot of waterways in earlier days,”

Overeem continues. “On the nodes you

can find squares that now offer restaurants,

bars and terraces. With the first

rays of sunlight people can be found on

one of the many terraces. But also in

colder weather they are equally inviting,

with heaters, candles and a roof protection

formed by beach umbrellas. The first

places open in the morning for coffee

and breakfast, and then the last places

for drinks and dancing close when the

first places are almost ready to open

again.” The squares are car free and even

cyclists need to walk alongside their

bikes. Every now and then, the terraces

have to make room for a market, or a cultural

event with live performances.

Hip hotspots

Just a short walk from the city centre,

a whole new centre can be found. Old

warehouses are now being used for crafts

and hospitality. According to Overeem,

the old fabrics are still visible. “An old

toothpaste factory at a hotspot called ´De

Nieuwe Stad´ (The New City) is now the

home of different restaurants. One has

even mounted a pizza oven in the old factory

chimney.” The ´Wagenwerkplaats´ is

another hotspot – this was once a maintenance

centre for the Dutch railroad

company. Behind the yellow and black

shutters, many different activities are constantly

taking place, yet everything is visible

and transparent to visitors. Overeem:

“The hotspots are mostly visited by couples

and young families who come here

for a lunch or dinner.”

Muurhuizen. Photo: Bianca van der Aalst-Koedijker

Kortegracht.

Koen Overeem. Photo: Robin Joshua



The Onze Lieve Vrouwetoren.

Monnikendam, part of the city wall.



Stadscafé Amersfoort.

Local crafts

Overeem is keen to highlight that there are

also many different products produced

locally. “Another one of the assets of

Amersfoort is the local crafts. For example,

there is a baker who makes the dough for

bread here in the city. And a bicycle maker

who welds bicycle frames in his open

workshop. The local brewery also shows

how its beer is being made, and this is

visible from the connected restaurant. It is

great to see how a product is being made

and be able to enjoy it at the same time.”

Friendly locals

Amersfoort has a lively centre. “A lot of

young families live just outside the city

centre, close to the schools. Amersfoort

is not really a student city – but it is a

very attractive place to live for young professionals.

It is a city with the usual city

elements, but the people know each other

as though it were a village. Everybody

is friendly and helpful to one another.

This is noticeable when walking around

the small, cosy streets and squares,”

Overeem smiles. “The best way to discover

it all is to visit Amersfoort. The locals

love to show guests the best of the

best of their city.”

Web: www.visitamersfoort.com

Lieve Vrouwekerkhof.

Wagenwerkplaats.

Rock City Brewpub. Photo: Rock City Brewing


NIJMEGEN

Feel the history, feel the vibe

TEXT: MICHIEL STOL | PHOTOS: GEMEENTE NIJMEGEN

Embraced by the majestic river Waal,

the city of Nijmegen is the largest city

in the east of the Netherlands, right on

the German border. It is a city where

the old collides with the new; history,

innovation and vibrant culture meet in

the heart of this former Roman stronghold.

You might not see it at first, but

you will immediately feel it.

Nijmegen’s past has been one of war,

prosperity, culture and innovation. It is the

oldest city in the Netherlands, founded

in 19 BC, when the Romans first settled

on the natural moraine next to the river.

The military outpost and adjacent village

turned into a centre of trade, and by 98

AD, ‘Noviomagus’ had received city

rights, the first settlement in modern-day

Netherlands to do so. Throughout the late

Middle Ages, the strategic position on

the Waal fuelled the city’s economy, and

the river beds provided fertile farmlands.

This is also the period when the majestic

Saint Stephen’s Church was built, at

the highest point of the upper city. The

church’s foundations still stem from the

1270s and, to this day, the church is

Nijmegen’s main architectural feature, rising

large above the city.

Misfortune and prosperity

By the 15th century, Nijmegen had become

a city of prominence; it entered

the prestigious Hanseatic trade league

and was fortified with a stone wall. The

wars of the Renaissance hampered

Nijmegen’s growth, and the 1630s black

plague epidemic halved its population.

However, by the 19th century, political

stability had returned to the region

and Nijmegen began to flourish once



again. The population grew quickly,

and the confining defensive walls were

all taken down in 1875 to create room.

Around this time, the first vendors moved

into the Hezelstraat, near the Grote

Markt (central market). To date, it remains

part of the best shopping area of

Nijmegen, with many independent shops

as well as cosy restaurants and bars. Existing

for over 135 years, the Hezelstraat

is proud to be the Netherlands’ oldest

shopping street.

Word War II

In the Second World War, Nijmegen took

a turn for the worst. Being so close to the

border, it was one of the first Dutch cities

to be captured by the Nazis. Towards the

end of the war, it was bombed several

times by both German and Allied forces.

In February 1944, 800 civilians died during

the largest bombing of a Dutch city.

Many of the historic buildings were lost,

but were rebuilt in their original style, and

now stand side by side with more modern

buildings. Throughout the city you

will find commemorations, where you will

feel the impact the bombings had on the

city and the lives of its citizens.

Operation Market Garden

Nijmegen was also one of the cities where

Allied forces suffered huge losses during

Operation Market Garden. After suffering

heavy losses in skirmishes with German

forces in the heart of the city, American

soldiers crossed the river Waal in peddle

boats on September 20, 1944, which later

became known as the Waal Crossing.

48 soldiers died during this crossing and

it turned out to be too late to reinforce

Allied troops in Arnhem. This led to a

six-month delay of the liberation of the

north of the country. In 2013, Nijmegen

completed the construction of a city

bridge called Oversteek (The Crossing),

close to where the allies crossed the

river. On the bridge are 48 streetlights,

representing each of the soldiers that

lost their lives. At sunset, the streetlights

are lit up pair by pair at a slow marching





pace. Every night – whatever the weather

– a military veteran walks the ‘Sunset

March’ at sunset, to honour the fallen.

As the lights are turned on, the veteran

walks along in pace with the lights being

lit. Witnessing this daily ode to history, is

something you simply must not miss.

Innovation to preserve nature

As part of ‘Room for the River’, a national

project to protect cities along major

Dutch rivers against flooding, the river

beds along the Waal were greatly expanded.

The river embankments were

moved 350 metres inland. This created a

secondary river channel, running parallel

to the main river with an island separating

the two. Veur-Lent is the new hotspot in

the city, where living and leisure unite.

There is also plenty to discover when you

step outside the city. Nijmegen is located

next to the spectacular grasslands of

the Ooij to the east, the hilly forests of

the Groesbeekse Bos to the south, and

the rich wetlands of the Overasseltse en

Hatertse Vennen to the south-west. Avid

hikers, as well as cyclists, can peacefully

discover the stunning surroundings

in all their glory. Just a couple of minutes

from the city, the fields take visitors

through seemingly endless pastures

with curious cows and no cars in sight.

As autumn transforms the leaves in the

Groesbeekse Bos from green to red,

amber and gold, it is the perfect time to

explore this area and admire the myriad

of colours.

Old city, young vibe

The mix of old and new perfectly reflects

Nijmegen’s character of today: room to

remember and appreciate the city’s history,

while at the same time feeling its

cultural and young, innovative atmosphere.

Discover the city and enjoy music,

food and shopping in the centre, at the

different museums, at the Honig Complex

or at Doornroosje music venue. Explore

Nijmegen as a local with the new

USE-IT map, with hotspots in and around

the city. Immerse yourself in this old city

and be captivated by its fresh vibe!

Web: www.centrumnijmegen.nl


HALDERBERGE

Welcome to the heartwarming

municipality of Halderberge

TEXT: EMMA WESSELING | PHOTOS: HALDERBERGE

People often look at Amsterdam or

other centrally located cities when they

think about visiting the Netherlands.

But did you know that the south of this

little country is filled with heartwarming,

peaceful towns that will win you

over in a heartbeat? The Halderberge

municipality is most certainly one such

place, whether you’re just stopping by

for a short visit or intend on staying

long-term.

Halderberge is a small municipality that

comprises villages like Oudenbosch,

Hoeven and Oud Gastel. Located

in the west of Brabant province, it’s

just two short train rides away from

Rotterdam and other central cities. The

name Halderberge symbolises a collective

past of when monks put down the base

for the villages of Gastel, Hoeven and

Oudenbosch in the Sint Bernard abbey.

Stepping into Oudenbosch means

stepping into the Roman-catholic world.

The ambiance of previous centuries can

still be felt in the air and tasted through

the food. A special icon from this time

is the H.H. Agatha and Barbara basilica

that was built between 1865 and 1892.

One of the most striking buildings in

Hoeven has its roots in the time when

Hoeven itself was founded. The building

Bovendonk, currently being used as a

conference centre, was designed by

world renowned architect P.J. Cuypers,

who is very famous for designing the

Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam) among

others. The beautiful, Neo-gothic building

is definitely worth a visit. Bovendonk

was built right on the place where the



monks of St. Bernard abbey built the

abbey farm.

Autumn and winter hikes

If you enjoy hiking, Halderberge is the

place for you. The autumn is perfect for

taking strolls through the seemingly neverending

nature in areas like Gastels Laag,

Hoevense Beemden and the Pagnevaartbos.

The peat history of West-Brabant is

still easy to see in some areas and there are

specific walks and bicycle routes that will

take you along this interesting past.

Oudenbosch has city walks starting from

the tourist information point (Stationsstraat

7). Your guide will lead you along

the special buildings and museums in

the town and tell you about the history

and the rich Roman-catholic past of the

Oudenbosch city centre and the municipality.

The walks will take anywhere from

90 minutes to two and a half hours. Your

preferences will be translated into a programme

or arrangement, all depending

on your needs and your group. The volunteers

from the tourist information point

will be waiting for you.

In 2017, the municipality started working

on a second trail through the town,

that connects monuments through an

industrial and commercial perspective.

Oudenbosch is very rich in monuments,

but many of the fascinating stories

behind the town’s heritage are still largely

unknown to its visitors.

This second tour, that has now opened

for the public, tells a fascinating story of

the local families in Oudenbosch, their

history and the history of their homes,

industries and other properties.

It will guide you along places that you

might not see if you were just merely

visiting, like Kade 6, the former residence

of Pieter Daverveldt. This house, dating

from 1895, was built following a design

by Van Genk, an architect from the nearby

town of Bergen op Zoom. Daverveldt

was the owner of sugar factory

Daverveldt, Binck & Co, located near the

harbour of Oudenbosch. The house, that

was rebuilt to be a shop with an apartment

on top, was demolished in 1998, but

the beautiful façade was preserved and

restored to its original state.

Snuggling up to some live music

Halderberge will be the place to be

for some very exciting concerts in the

coming months. These concerts will

draw in visitors from all over the country.

The impressive buildings in the municipality

are the perfect décor for snuggling

up and listening to some live music while

enjoying the food and drinks the locations

in the municipality have to offer.

Why not go and hear the Carmina Burana

on 14 November, for instance, or watch

the piano recital by Nino Gvetadze on the

22 November. If you visit the Christmas

concert by the Oudenbosch Men’s Choir

on 15 December, you’re truly in for a

festive treat.

Information about tickets, booking

or arrangements can be found on

the tourist website:

www.visithalderberge.com


GOEREE OVERFLAKKEE

An oasis of award-winning nature

TEXT: MICHIEL STOL | PHOTOS: MERIJN KOELINK

The coastline of the isle of Goeree-

Overflakkee, in the southwest of the

Netherlands, has won multiple international

awards throughout the years.

And this year, the island, along with

Westvoorne, Schouwen-Duiveland

and Veere, was voted number one

Green Destination in the world, over

the likes of Lake Tahoe in the US and

Sani Isla in Ecuador, winning the Best

of Nature award.

“When you take a walk or go for a bicycle

ride and you look around, there are

so many vistas that will take your breath

away. From the dunes to the heritage in

the villages, the beauty is everywhere

here,” says Michel de Bruin, director of

Island Marketing of Goeree-Overflakkee.

De Bruin himself moved here over two

months ago. “As an ‘outsider’, I immediately

felt the respect for nature here on

the island. And knowing that it is only 30

minutes away from Rotterdam and even

Antwerp, made it even more attractive to

come here.”

Indescribable nature

Goeree-Overflakkee is filled with multiple

nature reserves which are home to a rich

flora and fauna. Seals, porpoises, deer,

wild horses, Europeans sea-eagles; the

island is home to several exquisite species.

Each autumn and winter period,

a group of flamingos make a home for

themselves on the island. “I often send

pictures to my friends, with the question:

‘where am I, Canada or Goeree?,’ grins

De Bruin. “The diversity in nature here

is indescribable; on the one hand the

beaches and the dunes, that are synonymous

with the Netherlands, and on the

other hand these vast landscapes with

beautiful animals and birds that will make

you forget you are in the Netherlands.” A

definite must-see is the bird observatory

TIJ, on the edge of the Haringvliet estuary.

This eight-metre-high building, shaped in



the form of the egg of a big tern, will give

you an amazing 360-degree view of the

area. Spotting terns, spoonbills or sea eagles

is a treat from here.

Respect for nature

For years, the island has been working to

preserve nature. Together with the municipalities

of Westvoorne, Schouwen-

Duiveland and Veere, the area is known

as the Dutch QualityCoast Delta. There

are numerous eco-friendly activities and

several accommodations are certified

by Green Key. As one of only four destinations

worldwide, Goeree-Overflakkee

has won the prestigious QualityCoast

Platinum Award. “Sustainability is in our

DNA. During the next few years, we want

to become completely energy neutral,”

continues De Bruin. “We want to achieve

this with windmills, sun energy, biogas

instead of electricity and there are plans

for a tribal power installation. We are surrounded

by water and there is almost

always wind. So why not utilise that, so

that we can preserve nature and future

generations? Goeree-Overflakkee is

about respect for the elements, whilst at

the same time challenging the elements

to preserve the island.”

Culture and leisure

Of course, Goeree-Overflakkee offers

more than just this amazing rich nature.

“Over the island runs a great new bicycle

route, that will bring you to picturesque

villages, where you will find heritage from

the Dutch Golden Age, and cosy marinas,

perfect for lunch or dinner.” For

those looking for a bit more excitement,

the Brouwersdam is the place to be.

The dunes and beaches here offer great

opportunities for kitesurfing and beach

volleyball. “Around the island are numerous

places to spend the night. “Whether

you want to go camping or stay in a

luxurious holiday home, there is a place

for everyone.” Major cities, such as

Rotterdam, Breda and Antwerp, are just

around the corner. “You can enjoy the

thrill of the city, and at the end of the day

unwind in the serenity of nature in the

blink of an eye.”

Clean air, fresh sea and a laidback life;

if you truly want to unwind from life’s

stresses, surrounded by amazing flora

and fauna, then there is no better place

than Goeree-Overflakkee. “A true green

oasis,” smiles De Bruin.

Web: www.visitgo.nl


The revival of Dutch Delftware artworks

TEXT: LAUREN WALKER | PHOTOS: PALEIS HET LOO/BART BRUSSEE

In the heart of the Netherlands stands a

palace constructed in the 17th century

by the House of Orange, called Paleis

Het Loo. It was later transformed into

a museum in 1984, and since 2016, it

has become home to one of the country’s

national treasures: a collection of

Delftware garden vases. Now, in a

unique collaboration with Amsterdam

Airport Schiphol, some of these stunning

garden vases are surprising travellers

at the country’s largest airport,

bringing Dutch Delftware vases to the

foreground and back in the public eye

once again.

During the restoration of the gardens

which came to an end three years ago,

Paleis Het Loo decided to bring the

grounds back to how they looked during

the Baroque period, when the palace was

home to the Orange family. Because they

found remains of Delftware vases in the

gardens, Paleis Het Loo decided these artefacts

should once again adorn the gardens

and be the cornerstone of the renovation

project. Three original royal vases

were found at various places in Europe –

at Erddig Hall in Wales, at Schloss Favorite

in Baden-Württemberg in Germany and in

France. The French vase was bought by

Paleis Het Loo in 2010. All three vases

served as examples for the manufacturing

of the new vases in the palace gardens.

Tradition and innovation

For the regeneration project, traditional

craft was combined with innovation.

Collaborating with the Industrial Design

faculty of the Technical University Delft,

experts used the latest technologies to

scan the extant garden vases for the

moulds. Production and hand-painting

of the vases has been undertaken by

Royal Tichelaar Makkum, using highquality

17th-century tin-glazing techniques.

In this way, innovation and craftsmanship

was combined. The production

was very labour-intensive: it takes

five days to paint just one vase! All 45

extraordinary replicate Delftware vases

produced for this project were moulded.

However, the surfaces were handpainted

and the 17th-century artisan

tin glaze applied by Royal Tichelaar

Makkum. The first inhabitants of the palace,

King William III and Queen Mary,


Discover Benelux | Top Art & Culture Spots in the Netherlands in 2020 | The Ultimate Destination

would gift large Delftware garden vases

to noblemen who supported them

during the Glorious Revolution of 1688,

which explains why the remains of some

vases were found found in castles and

palaces across Europe. The patterns

would depict symbols of the kingdoms

receiving gifts, such as the Tudor rose

of England or the Irish harp, often alongside

the monograms of their names

painted in calligraphy.

Both the daughter of King James II, princess

Mary Stuart II, and her Dutch husband

William of Orange were avid collectors

of Dutch Delftsware pottery and

exotic plants and trees and combined

both passions by arranging rare flora in

their vases. These were often imprinted

with orange trees, symbolic of the

Orange dynasty, and myrtles. It is believed

they would decorate both the gardens

and their home with these vases, to

draw a constant line between the indoors

and outdoors.

Few 17th-century Delftware garden vases

have survived because they are very

delicate. Freezing cold is disastrous, as

these conditions could lead to cracks in

the artworks and the glaze to eventually

burst. That is why the exhibition of the

new Delftware vases in the palace garden

runs exclusively from the start of

June to the end of September.

A unique display

However, the vases are not completely

hidden away during the colder months.

Paleis Het Loo, in collaboration with

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, has created

a unique display at the newly built E-pier,

to surprise travellers with a 12-piece collection,

showcasing all three designs.

The garden vases stand in a modern

space creatively designed by Dutch designer

Mae Engelgeer, of which the pedestals

and walls translate the colours of

the palace’s gardens, complementing the

Delft Blue artworks and mimicking the

surroundings from their original home.

Paleis Het Loo on Tour

Travellers will be able to learn more about

the extraordinary collection of vases. The

presentation of these distinctive pottery

works at the airport is part of Paleis Het

Loo on Tour, an initiative by the museum

to showcase exceptional collections in

unexpected places in the Netherlands

during the renovations and construction

of the grounds, and to excite national

and international visitors about the reopening

of Paleis Het Loo in 2021.

Paleis Het Loo is undergoing a major

renovation and expansion and will

reopen in 2021. The gardens and

stables are open from April 2020 to

September 2020, where the Delft

Blue vases will be showcased.

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Bart Brussee.

For more info, go to:

www.paleishetloo.com


Moshiel & Lady Sinagaga, New York USA (2019). Photo: Leon Hendrickx

DRAG POWER

Gender, pride & glamour

at CODA Museum Apeldoorn

TEXT: CODA

Imposing, flamboyant and eccentric are

words that often come to mind when

you think about drag queens. More and

more often, drag is a topic of conversation

on television, online, in series, documentaries

and newspapers. RuPaul’s

Drag Race has made drag well-known

worldwide, and also into quite a commercial

phenomenon. Drag, which was

once mainly known in the ‘underground

culture’ within the LGBTQI-community,

has now almost become mainstream.

But what exactly does drag stand for?

Is the name as an acronym a precise

representation of what drag means:

‘dressed resembling a girl’? Is it only

a game of dressing up as the opposite

sex, all about appearance and fun? Or

is there more to it? The exhibition Drag

Power - Gender, pride & glamour showcases

the exuberant looks, but above

all, what is behind the sequins and under

the wigs.

Drag queens and kings use their body

and appearance as a ‘living canvas’ to

tell a story. Where one has an activistrelated

message, others mainly enjoy the

temporary change into their exuberant

alter-ego. Dressing up as the opposite

Sander den Baas aka Lady Galore, from the

series LAK! (2014). Photo: Jan van Breda



sex (cross-dressing) is not just something

from the past decade(s). For many centuries,

men and women have changed roles

during folk festivals, in theatre, during wars

and also outside of any of these contexts.

Those in charge didn’t always allow this;

disruption of gender classification was

considered ‘disruption of the ruling order’.

The people behind five drag acts active

in the Netherlands, tell their personal

story in Drag Power - Gender, pride &

glamour. They reveal their backgrounds,

experiences and the various reasons for

starting with drag. Richard Keldoulis has

been active as the – activist – drag queen

Jennifer Hopelezz for 18 years, and is at

the base of House of Hopelezz and important

drag events such as the Drag

Olympics and Superball. Sander den Baas

has been active in the drag scene for

many years and appeared as Lady Galore

in the TV programme The Diva In Me last

year, and also in the documentary Galore,

about Lady Galore. The alter ego of Ante

Joosten is Mason Tonight, the only drag

king amongst the main characters in the

exhibition. Afif Shafit is from Malaysia and

has been active for a relatively short time

as a drag queen, named Licka Lolly. The

enigmatic ChelseaBoy is the alter ego of

Brian van der Heijden.

The current scene and historical roots of

drag are further explained in the exhibition:

by means of visual arts, historical objects,

photography, videos and outfits. The exhibition

shows a rich and varied image of the

past and present, but also the social and

cultural structures through which drag was

and is rejected and/or embraced.

Drag Power - Gender, pride & glamour

has been curated by CODA together

with Willem Hoogstede and Paul Derrez,

owners of Galerie Ra in the city centre of

Amsterdam. Derrez is a jewellery designer,

Hoogstede a retired teacher, and they are

both art collectors. Derrez and Hoogstede

see drag as a powerful medium to talk

about history, gender, personal stories, (in)

justice and activism.

Drag Kings, Lee Marchetti (2011).

Photo: Feriet Tunc

“The exhibition touches upon the history

of drag, the diversity, its glamorous and

theatrical side, but also its political, activist

edges. When we started thinking about

curating this exhibition, we thought: there’s

a lot of attention on drag in the media,

but it’s always quite superficial. Drag is

usually very visual, and we wanted to dig

deeper into the subject. There is a person

beyond the glamour. So, we started with

researching how drag manifested itself in

history in, for example, theatre and in social

life. In the exhibition, we tell this history

in an international context and move

towards contemporary drag in a Dutch

context. Because drag is very visual, there

is a lot of photography to be found about

it. There are contemporary photographers

who focus predominantly on the concept

of drag in their photography practice. For

instance, one of the participating artists

in the exhibition, Léon Hendrickx, made a

series of photos called Kings and Queens,

in which he photographed drag queens

and the people behind the drag personas,

without their costume. Then, he morphed

these two sides of the same person, so the

drag persona is embracing the same body

without being in drag,” reveals Derrez in an

interview with Current Obsession.

Micha & Snorella, Amsterdam, NL (2015). Photo: Leon Hendrickx

Discover the power of drag at CODA

Museum Apeldoorn from 3 November

2019 till 1 March 2020 inclusive.

For more information, visit:

coda-apeldoorn.nl/dragpower


Barbara Hoppel, director of Space Expo.

We need more ‘space’

TEXT: MICHIEL STOL | PHOTOS: SPACE EXPO

Space is all around us, and not just

literally, either; over the past decades,

we have been relying more on space

than ever before, to help us with

communication, mobility and tackling

problems like climate change. At

Space Expo in Noordwijk, the official

visitor centre for ESA ESTEC, you can

learn all about space. “But we need

more space,” says Barbara Hoppel,

director of Space Expo.

ESTEC is the European Space Research

and Technology Centre of the European

space agency ESA. Here in Noordwijk,

roughly 2,800 people work in the technical

heart of ESA. As space and spaceflight

continues to expand with the possibility

of more manned flights and even

commercial space flights, Space Expo

is looking towards its own expansion.

Hoppel: “Each year, over 100,000 people

visit us. They love our museum, but we

want to give them more. We want them

to experience more space and technology.

That is why, in 2020, there will be an

overhaul of the museum. We might want

our visitors to even go on their own ‘mission’.

As for the long term, we want to go

a step further, even. Space Expo should

become an experience centre full of

knowledge, information and education.”

The Soyuz capsule of André Kuipers

Since its opening in 1990, Space Expo

has been displaying a highly interesting

space exhibition. The interactive museum

has a lot to offer for all ages. Children

are in an exciting environment, there

are many interactive places and almost

everything can be touched. The older the

children are, the more information they

will pick up. “They even get their own astronaut

diploma afterwards.” Grown-ups

will enjoy the museum as well. The main

exhibition shows all that has to do with

space travel, satellites and technology.

“One of the main features is the Soyuz

TMA-03M spacecraft that brought Dutch

astronaut André Kuipers to the International

Space Station (ISS) and back.

Kuipers has been to space twice.”

Apollo and the moon landing

This year is the 50th anniversary of the

first moon landing. To commemorate

that, Space Expo has an exhibition dedicated

to this event. “That moment was

of such importance. So, we are delighted

that we have and can show original



items (and replicas) that were part of the

manned space project, Apollo.”

A bright new feature

Even though the museum is already fascinating,

Hoppel is preparing for ‘more

space’, both literally and figuratively

speaking. “Our ambition is for Space

Expo to become the window into the

Dutch space community, with strong

ties to space agencies, the universities

of Leiden and Delft and other partners.

And of course, to provide a unique experience

with a great collection,” elaborates

Hoppel. “We want to bring space

travel closer to people, both for visitors

of our museum as well as for businesses.

Space Expo should be the place

where current affairs, history, research

and knowledge come together. Where

you can feel the excitement of space and

where like-minded people can meet.” To

realise this, Space Expo is currently getting

in contact with businesses, investors

and creative minds alike.

Building a Space Campus

But it is not just Space Expo that is in

huge development. Right beside the

museum, the city of Noordwijk is creating

the ‘Space Campus’. “This will be

a high-tech cluster on an international

scale,” Hoppel continues. “It will be the

place where the aerospace industry will

meet and cooperate.” Multiple space related

companies have already made the

Space Campus their base, such as the

Galileo Research Centre and the cluster

of Space Business Park-companies. “We

are closely involved in the developments

of the Space Campus. And we are working

on a feasibility study to see if we can

create a new and modern Space Experience

centre at the heart of the campus.

These are plans that are tight-knit to the

ambitions of the city of Noordwijk and

the province of South Holland. So, keep

a close eye on us. Amazing things will

happen in the coming years. And there is

still a lot of ‘space’ for companies to be

part of this adventure.”

Web: www.space-expo.nl



Pictura Veluvensis:

An insight into early 20th-century impressionism

TEXT: MICHIEL STOL | PHOTOS: NOORD-VELUWS MUSEUM

In 1900, the cities of Renkum and Nunspeet

at the edge of the Veluwe National Park,

were flourishing artist colonies and, in 1902,

the artists created their own society: Pictura

Veluvensis. A decade later, the society held

its first exhibition outside the colony. Over a

century later, the Noord-Veluws Museum is

now recreating this impressive display of art.

The exposition is based on the original catalogue

of the 1913 display. Over 100 paintings,

drawings and etchings, created by more than 50

artists such as Charles Dankmeijer, Hendrikus

van Ingen and Xeno Münninghoff, are shown

together again. It mainly shows landscapes, but

there are also portraits and still-life paintings.

The display gives a great insight into the year

1913 – a special year in painting and the start

of artists experimenting with impressionism.

Some artists painted crockery, made sculptures

Jan van Vuuren Schaapskooi te Vierhouten

Oil on canvas.

Charles Dankmeijer, Huisje op de Noordberg,

Oil on canvas.

from plaster or illustrated children’s books.

Also, a number of sketchbooks that show

what painters became fascinated with during

their wanderings on the Veluwe are part of the

exhibition. Highlights of the exhibition include a

painting by Anton Smeerdijk in pointillist style

and a symbolist work by Louise Blommestein.

The Noord-Veluws Museum is organising

the exhibition in cooperation with Museum

Veluwezoom, to honour their respective fifth and

25th anniversaries. Both expositions are a tribute

to the painters working on the Veluwe, expressing

their vision of this majestic nature reserve.

Pictura Veluvensis can be visited until 15

March 2020 at the Noord-Veluws Museum, and

until 26 January 2020 at Museum Veluwezoom.

Web: www.noord-veluws-museum.nl

and www.museumveluwezoom.nl

NETHERLANDS GUIDE 2019

The ultimate destination

The Netherlands is a holiday destination for the masses. It is a paradise for cyclists, beach fanatics and all those

who wish to surrender themselves to nature. Yet, the low countries have even more in store, and for everyone

from culture vultures to foodies too. Explore the versatility of the Dutch and their country this year and you may

well be surprised at the undiscovered pearls which are just a stone’s throw from some of the country’s most

iconic hotspots.

TEXT: ARNE ADRIAENSSENS | PHOTOS: NBTC

38 | Issue 62 | February 2019

Discover Benelux | Netherlands Guide 2019 | The Ultimate Destination

GOM.

Nieuwkoop.

Top places to visit

When on a visit in the Netherlands, many

tourists lose themselves in the decadent

beauty of its fabulous cities. Amsterdam,

Rotterdam, Leiden, The Hague: all of them

manage to combine the exquisite beauty

they have inherited from the past with

many modern and innovative additions.

Yet, once outside those metropolitan

bubbles, you can explore real Dutch life

with all your senses. The country’s smaller

cities and villages are what postcards

are made of, and are the perfect spots in

which to immerse yourself in the culture of

cheese and clogs, or meet locals.

Nature, history and culture

Many destinations, such as Nieuwkoop,

Wassenaar and Heemskerk, will dazzle

you with the best that Mother Nature

has to offer. Both sweet and salty waters

meander through and past the villages,

inviting you to take a cold dip or - if

you are lucky - ice skate on top of it. In

Halderberge and Maastricht, you are

welcome to enjoy some culture. You can

bump into the biggest cultural prodigies

at international art fairs or look back at the

past through the rich pallet of protected

patrimony, which towers above the iconically

flat skyline. Meanwhile, Arnhem and

Vught both have plenty to offer any fans

of history.

Issue 62 | February 2019 | 39


Top art and culture spots

The Netherlands is drenched in culture

from top to bottom. Amsterdam might

be one of Europe’s leading cities when it

comes to cultural activities, but there are

also amazing alternative attractions outside

of the metropole. On top of that, you

avoid the long waiting lines, huge crowds

and the high entrance fees.

Centraal Museum Utrecht.

TEFAF, Maastricht.

Haarlem’s Ten Boom House, for example,

confronts you with the horrors of the

Second World War in a similar way to

Anne Frank’s house in the capital. The

family Ten Boom used to hide Jewish

families from the Nazis as well, sometimes

even in a secret compartment

behind a fake wall. For art lovers, meanwhile,

the Fries Museum, in the upper

north of the country, is the way to go.

There, globetrotter Eric Van Hove exhibits

his work, which mixes traditional

crafts with modern industry.

Those who like history will most probably

enjoy witnessing the Benelux’ biggest

dolmen. In the Hunebedcentrum,

you can learn about these mystical

constructions and their brilliant builders.

In all, the Netherlands offers so much

more than just Amsterdam’s greatest

hotspots. Dive into the cultural offerings

from the rest of the country and enjoy a

beautiful road trip through the countryside

in one fell swoop.

Maastricht.



Craving more culture?

These five exhibitions on Dutch soil are

absolute must-sees!

Glorious Delft Blue

Royal Delft Experience, Delft

Until 30 June

While the colour of all the Netherlands

is orange, the city of Delft is undoubtedly

blue. The iconic blue and white china

which has put the city on the map celebrates

its 365th birthday this year. At the

exposition, Glorious Delft Blue, cups and

vases map out the unique, elegant and

crafty grandeur of the Dutch golden age.

Caravaggio and Europe

Centraal Museum, Utrecht

Until 24 March

In the 17th century, three painters from

Utrecht, with a passion for Caravaggio’s

work, travelled all the way to Rome to witness

the master’s art with their own eyes.

Today, their work hangs next to that of

their inspiration in a joint exhibition. Enjoy

over 70 brilliant paintings, among which

are some from the Vatican and the Louvre,

and allow yourself to be just as amazed as

these three passionate admirers were four

centuries ago.

world tour in the majestic Dutch capitals.

For three days only, you can gaze at the

best pictures taken worldwide. Eventually,

it is estimated that over two billion people

could go to view the images in one of the

100 cities where the exhibition will pass,

yet, the citizens of Amsterdam have the

privilege of seeing them first.

Architecture Biennale

Rotterdam

23 April – 10 July

This spring, the city of Rotterdam will be

the biggest architectural hub in the world

once again. During this biannual event of

exhibitions, conferences and other activities,

architects and architecture aficionados

feed their passion with further knowledge

and inspiration, with which they can

sink their teeth into new and innovative

projects for the upcoming two years.

For more cultural recommendations,

peek at www.holland.com.

Maestro van Wittel – Dutch Master of the

Italian Cityscape

Museum Flehite, Amersfoort

Until 5 May

Just like how many Western pop-artists

are big in Japan, yet hardly known in

their hometowns, the 17th-century Dutch

painter, Caspar van Wittel, was widely famous

in Italy. The master from Amersfoort,

who had a great gift for painting landscapes,

left the low countries when he

was only 20 years old to roam throughout

artistic Italy. Now, his work is back in

his hometown, showing its citizens how

proud they can be of this extraordinary,

yet almost forgotten, townsman.

World Press Photo 2019

Nieuwe Kerk, Amsterdam

11-13 April 2019

Traditionally, the laureates of the prestigious

World Press Photo contest start their


this is not

on your

bucketlist

But it should be

November, which is the last month of the cultural year,

is not an end but rather a new beginning. A Re Opening.

We immerse ourselves in the celebratory spirit of typical

Leeuwarden autumn festivals such as Explore the North

and the Northern Film Festival and provide a lot of surprises

during this three-week autumn festival.

autumn 2018

Rembrandt & Saskia

The Frisian Saskia Uylenburgh was the first great love

of Rembrandt van Rijn. The couple married in 1634.

Saske, her Frisian baptismal name, was born and raised

in Leeuwarden. The most famous Frisian newlyweds

ever are the theme of the exhibition Rembrandt & Saskia:

Love in the Golden Age.

DATE: 5 until 21 November

LOCATION: Leeuwarden, Friesland

DISCIPLINE: Music, Film, Festival, Light

DATE: 23 November 2018 until 17 March 2019

LOCATION: Leeuwarden, Friesland

DISCIPLINE: Exhibition

Must do’s in 2019

continuous Sense of Place Art in nature reserves Friesland

continuous Leeuwarden Free Tour City tour Leeuwarden

continuous 11Fountains Art in public spaces Friesland

continuous Borrow a Frisian Authentic acquaintances Friesland

14 Okt until 13 Jan Not Afraid of the New Exhibition Drachten

23 Nov until 17 Mar Rembrandt & Saskia Exhibition Leeuwarden

3-5 May Here Comes the Summer Festival Vlieland

24-25 May Frisian Street Festival Festival Leeuwarden

30 May until 2 June Oranjewoud Festival Classical music festival Oranjewoud

14-23 June Oerol Festival Terschelling

21-23 June Hooked Festival Workum

27-30 June CityProms Classical music festival Leeuwarden

5-7 July MadNes Music Ameland

18-21 July Welcome to The Village Festival Leeuwarden

July/August Opera Spanga Opera Spanga

August Skûtsjesilen Sailing event Friesland

3-8 August Sneekweek Sailing event Sneek

September Into The Great Wide Open Festival Vlieland

November Northern Film Festival Film Leeuwarden

November Explore The North Music Leeuwarden

Photo credit:

Rembrandt van Rijn, Saskia en

profil in kostbaar kostuum (detail),

1633-1642, olieverf op paneel

Museumslandschaft Hessen Kassel,

Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister, Kassel

More information:

2018.nl/en


Nieuwkoop’s historic heart, located right by the lakes. Photo: Ruben Griffioen

NIEUWKOOP

Get the full Dutch experience

TEXT: EVA MENGER

Tourists in the Netherlands often try to

get a flavour of the country by visiting

the Keukenhof flower park or tourist

attractions de Zaanse Schans and

Kinderdijk. The problem? Queues and

queues of people! Nieuwkoop, on the

other hand, is an undiscovered gem

where visitors can peacefully enjoy the

full Dutch experience.

Located right in between major cities

Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Utrecht, this

little Dutch town offers the perfect base

for people wanting to make the most of

their trip to the Netherlands. Need to do

business in the capital? Not a problem.

The Amsterdam business district is only a

half hour drive away. It is also very easy to

reach from Schiphol, making it a suitable

spot for a quick visit.

An undiscovered pearl

“Nieuwkoop really is an undiscovered

pearl,” Joke Pelser, marketing manager at

Nieuwkoop Marketing, tells us. “The municipality

is surrounded by green meadows

and a very unique nature reserve called de

Nieuwkoopse Plassen. It’s also the only

place in the country where mill-courses are

still being used for draining the surrounding

polder – there’s a couple of them open for

visitors just outside the village, where tours

are given by the millers themselves. The

typical image of windmills, tulips, cows,

cheese, clogs and green meadows; that’s

how we still live around here.”

No less than 26 per cent of the

Netherlands – pretty much the whole

western part of the country – is located

below sea level, and it is this experience of

living in such circumstances that is really

tangible in Nieuwkoop. With mills, locks

and dykes still actively doing their job, it is

the best example of authentic Dutch country

living out there. The Oudheidkundig- en

Poldermuseum, a museum exploring various

elements of the village’s history, is an

excellent place to learn all about that.

Otters in the Nieuwkoopse Plassen.

Photo: Luc Hoogenstein



“Nieuwkoop has always been a town of

crafts,” says Pelser. For centuries, it was

where reed cutters spent day after day

taking care of reed fields. Something you

can still witness by taking a boat trip on

the local lakes, where a guide will take you

past reed fields showing the various stages

of reed cutting (you will even be able

to try it yourself). The village also knows a

long history of forging, which is explained

in a small but incredibly charming museum

(Smederijmuseum Nieuwkoop). Located

under two ancient chestnut trees, you will

find an authentic cottage followed by an

original workshop where the rich history of

this beautiful craft comes alive immediately.

Nature

The location is a true gift as well, offering

natural facilities left, right and centre.

“The most amazing thing is that you can

really experience these nature reserves,”

Pelser states. “The Nieuwkoopse Plassen

(a group of man-made shallow lakes), are

fantastic for cycling, hiking and paddling,

with plenty of beautiful routes available for

days of entertainment. A recent trend has

Tulip fields in Nieuwkoop. Photo: Fam Flowerfarm

been stand up paddling (supping), which

is a really fun and active way to explore the

area with a group of friends. Ideal for office

parties too!” Other active ways of exploring

the waters are sailing and canoeing

(both available for rent) and – perhaps our

favourite – a unique GPS escape tour.

Wildlife

The environment is also full of wildlife, perfect

for nature photographers or bird spotters.

The lakes attract otters (which only

happens around very clean water), and are

home to the wonderful purple heron. You

may even be able to spot some deer and

foxes here, if you are lucky. What is more,

the area is known as one of the country’s

best spots for natural ice-skating. “On

those rare occasions that the ice is thick

enough, people from all over the country

come down with their skates. Those are

busy times for the village and it’s always

incredibly cosy,” says Pelser. Another reason

Dutch people love to visit Nieuwkoop

is Liemeer, a scenic nine and 18-hole golf

course which opened in 2007.

Ice skating by the windmills. Photo: VVV Nieuwkoop

Boats on the Nieuwkoopse Plassen.

Photo: Sjanie de Geus



Ice skating on the Nieuwkoopse Plassen. Photo: Gemeente Nieuwkoop

Beautiful situated tea gardens.

Photo: De Sfeerstal

Pelser: “My biggest local secret? That’ll be

De Meije, without a doubt. This little river

is only accessible by foot, bike, or small

boats and has ancient little bridges that

need to be operated manually: a mustvisit

for anyone who loves natural beauty,

peace and quiet. Both de Nieuwkoopse

Plassen and De Meije are also very popular

amongst photographers and artists, partly

because of the area’s magnificent light.

Many of their works can be viewed in local

galleries as well as national museums.”

Supping is fun for all ages. Photo: Nikano

Local products at the farm shop.

Photo: Jan Nieuwenhuizen

Dutch clouds at De Meije.

Photo: Sjanie de Geus

Looking for an overnight stay in this authentic

Dutch village? There is a host of

small hotels as well as intimate Bed &

Breakfasts around. From beautiful buildings

by the water to remote cottages, you

are guaranteed to find an idyllic place to

stay that will help you seamlessly integrate

into the small village lifestyle.

Gourmet delights

Foodies will not be disappointed here either.

Nieuwkoop is full of lovely restaurants

and cafés, many of them overlooking the

water. The many romantic waterside ter-



races are perfect for those first days of

spring or long, warm summer nights. Another

great place for eating is the village’s

historical heart, located around a square

called Reghthuysplein. Here, you will find

various cafés, restaurants, little shops and

a small harbour – again with striking views

over the lakes.

Winter, spring, summer or autumn: the

quintessentially Dutch Nieuwkoop offers

an authentic experience whatever the

weather. Practice your ice-skating moves

on the (if you are lucky) frozen lakes, join

the locals for supping on a sunny afternoon,

explore the peaceful environment

on your bike or learn about the village’s

fascinating history in one of its many museums.

No matter what your interests are,

this is a part of the Netherlands that you

do not want to miss.

Web: www.visitnieuwkoop.nl

Instagram: visitnieuwkoop

Biking, Hiking and Sailing at the Kwakelbrug. Photo: VVV Nieuwkoop

The Groene Jonker, a great place for bird spotting and hiking. Photo: Jan Kriek



Fort Isabella.

VUGHT

A real-life treasure hunt

TEXT: EVA MENGER | PHOTOS: GEMEENTE VUGHT

In the South of the Netherlands,

not far from atmospheric city ‘s

Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch for locals),

lies Vught, a small village surrounded

by greenery and cultural highlights.

With local programme Treasures of

Vught, authorities have put the area’s

most valuable, often hidden, sights

back on the map.

The origins of Vught go way back. The

village was first mentioned in 1006, and

those centuries of history are still highly

visible throughout the area – whether it is

Maurick Castle, a medieval castle built in

1400, or Fort Isabella, an impressive renovation

of a 1617 fortification. Other treasures

are 20th-century manor Landgoed

Huize Bergen, Brabant’s longest beach

De IJzeren Man (The Iron Man), and

Nationaal Monument Kamp Vught, a memorial

of what, during World War II, used

to be the only SS concentration camp located

outside of German annexation.

DePetrus

“These are all beautiful and historical

sights, but the treasure that we’re perhaps

most proud of is DePetrus,” alderman

Pennings tells us. “This 1884 church,

located in the heart of the village, was

saved from demolition and instead rebuilt

into a meeting centre, including a library,

museum and fairtrade shop. Now it’s

a place where visitors can explore new

ways of storytelling and information sharing.”

Upon its opening in 2018, the centre

was praised worldwide, with positive reviews

coming from media outlets including

CNN and Forbes.

DePetrus’ biggest attraction is the library,

which, next to a host of modern and

classic literature, offers facilities where

self-development is encouraged by way

of meaning, interpretation and context.

There is also a comfortable reading café

for hungry and thirsty visitors to settle

down in, and a meeting centre for daily

activities aimed at improving the quality of

life amongst local citizens.

Last but not least, DePetrus is home to

The Vught Museum, which exhibits a

large and diverse collection of work by

local painters, as well as a visual telling of

the village’s fascinating history. In addition

to this permanent display, it curates temporary,

often local exhibitions. This month,

for example, visitors can view work by

town local and photographer Wim van



Passel, who shot a wonderful collection of

photos in the Polar Regions.

Nature and sports

Indeed, Vught has plenty to offer for fans

of history and culture. But the same goes

for those into nature and sports. “Fans

of cycling can hire a bike and follow the

‘Linie 1629’ cycling route,” says Penning.

This 49 kilometre route, following the ruins

of the water line used by Frederik

Hendrik to besiege and conquer Spanishoccupied‘s

Hertogenbosch in 1629, takes

you past the wider area’s natural and cultural

highlights. As the route is circular, it is

also highly versatile, though cyclists wanting

to cut down on distance can of course

opt for an alternative. Just follow the route

on your phone using GPS (download the

app for interesting, on-route facts) and

see where it takes you.

this will be a great way of showing the

world what we have to offer.”

Culinary delights

And that is a whole lot: with a short-game

area located right in front of a church, a

spacious, open-air driving range, a super

savvy golf simulator and luxurious spa

facilities, Bernardus is an exquisite golf

court. “The food is great too,” Pennings

continues, which we are more than happy

to believe knowing that the court’s

club house, Noble Kitchen, was founded

by Michelin-star chef Edwin Kats.

Whether you play golf or not, the food

they serve here, eaten with a view of

the court’s wonderful surroundings,

is reason enough for paying a visit.

Pennings: “If there’s one thing we can

say it’s that Vught has much more to offer

than most people think. It may be a

small town, but we really have something

for everyone. Whether it’s pastries and

sweets (people from all over the country

come down specially for Patisserie

de Rouw), or historical sites, it can all be

found here.”

Web: www.bezoekvught.nl

“We’re also very thrilled to have been selected

as host for the KLM Open from

2020 to 2022,” Pennings adds. Part of

the EGP European Tour, The KLM Open

is an annual golf tournament held in the

Netherlands, usually attracting some

45,000 people from all over the world.

“The Bernardus golf court in Cromvoirt,

Vught, has only just been opened, and

Golf Course Bernardus Cromvoirt.

The impressive interior of cultural

centre DePetrus.

Former concentration camp, ‘Nationaal

Monument Kamp Vught’.

De Ijzeren Man, Brabant’s longest beach.

Maurick Castle.



Basilica Oudenbosch.

Discover religious heritage

the Dutch way

TEXT: MICHIEL STOL | PHOTOS: GEMEENTE HALDERBERGE

The southern parts of the Netherlands

are predominantly Catholic regions, so

it comes as no surprise that the area

is brimming with religious heritage

sites. For instance, the south-western

municipality of Halderberge has amazing

historical buildings and museums,

dedicated to this legacy. “And

the best way to discover all this splendour,

is by doing it the Dutch way;

on a bicycle,” says José Besters of

Halderberge Municipality.

Although the towns of Oudenbosch,

Oud Gastel, Hoeven, Bosschenhoofd

and Stampersgat have been around

for centuries, the municipality to which

these towns belong is fairly new - it was

established in 1997. Each town has

its own uniqueness to it, but it is the

Roman Catholic heritage that binds them

all together.

Oudenbosch is the biggest of the five.

Here, you simply cannot escape the heritage,

in part thanks to the Oudenbosch

Basilica of the Holy Agatha and Barbara.

If not for its sheer size, people are overwhelmed

by this copy of St. Peter’s

Basilica in Rome. “The basilica came to

be in 1880, after 15 years of construction,

thanks to father Willem Hellemons.

He lived in Rome for a while and was

in awe of St. Peter’s Basilica. He studied

as many details as possible, so he

could create a replica in Oudenbosch,”

explains Besters. “It is now one of the

Netherlands’ most famous churches, with

over 70,000 visitors each year.” The

basilica was designed almost entirely

by famous architect P.J. Cuypers, who

was also responsible for the Rijksmuseum

and Central Station in Amsterdam.

Cuypers went on to build the monastery

Bovendonk in Hoeven, also part of the

municipality. This marvellous building,

characterised by its neo-gothic style,

looks sober from afar, but up close you



will notice the stained glass windows,

beautiful ornaments and high ceilings.

Touring Halderberge by bike

Today, the monastery is the location of a

beautiful hotel, where the priests’ study

rooms and lodgings have been turned

into comfortable rooms. Bovendonk is

centrally located between Breda, Bergen

op Zoom and Willemstad, making it the

perfect base for a cultural and historic

trip, not to mention a great spot for discovering

this amazing region by bicycle.

Oudenbosch is only five kilometres

away, so the basilica can be reached

within a few minutes. From Bovendonk,

you can also follow one of the many bicycle

routes that have been set out not

just in Halderberge, but throughout the

whole region. They are categorised by

length, but also by theme. For instance,

they have the ‘Lost Peat’ route, which

will take you along the history of the Peat

and even extends into Belgium. Other

routes take you along the different towns

and museums, as well as the two marinas

in Halderberge, where you have the

perfect opportunity to take a break along

the waterfront, with a nice refreshment or

a local specialty beer.

each day, with live music at the different

checkpoints. Perfect if you want to get

to know Halderberge and beyond - and

meet other cyclists too.

And do not think Halderberge is just

about monumental buildings; thrill seekers

can get their shot of adrenaline by

going skydiving at Breda International

Airport, a private airport located in

Bosschenhoofd. The skydiving club was

founded by a very active parachutists

club, who will take you to as high as

9,000 to 10,000 feet. From there, you

tandem jump out of a plane. It is quite a

popular attraction and not the only one

at Breda International Airport. The Flying

Museum, also located there, has a unique

collection of historical aircraft, which are

all airworthy and frequently take off. And

for water enthusiasts, ‘Splesj Water Park’

in Hoeven is one of the Benelux’ biggest

water parks.

In addition to all that, Halderberge still

has even more to offer, such as an observatory,

several museums and a beautiful

arboretum with amazing varieties of

bushes and trees.

“Short or long stay, you’ll find plenty to

enjoy in our city and in the West-Brabant

region. Hop on your bike or start hiking,

but above all, enjoy and have a pleasant

stay.”

Web: www.visithalderberge.com

During the Ascension Day weekend,

Hoeven has a four-day bicycle event,

where thousands of families and tourists

ride along a 25 kilometre, 40 kilometre,

60 kilometre or 100 kilometre route

Basilica Oudenbosch.



HEEMSKERK

An undiscovered pearl of the North Sea

TEXT: PAOLA WESTBEEK | PHOTOS: GEMEENTE HEEMSKERK (RONALD GOEDHEER) + JELENA SIMIDZIJA

Conveniently situated in the province

of North Holland, Heemskerk is an attractive

coastal town with plenty to offer.

Whether you are looking to explore

surroundings replete with history, recharge

your batteries amidst peaceful

and green landscapes, or spend a day

breathing in a good dose of healthy

sea air, this undiscovered pearl of the

North Sea does not disappoint.

The next time you visit the Netherlands,

you may want to escape the hustle and

bustle of its major cities and head to

Heemskerk. What started out as a small

agricultural/horticultural village in the Middle

Kennemerland region, mainly existing

from the cultivation of strawberries and

flower bulbs during the 19th century and

early 20th century, has blossomed into a

town that delights without overwhelming.

Multifaceted and easily accessible

A visit to Heemskerk means wandering

through its cosy centre and stopping

along the way to savour a local

‘Ezelsbok’ beer or a bite at one of its inviting

restaurants and cafés. Those seeking

retail therapy, will find plenty of shops

in the town centre.

Fascinated by history? Heemskerk

boasts medieval castles, ancient churches

and monuments that attest to the

town’s rich past. Not to be missed is

Château Marquette, which dates to

the 13th century and proudly stands

on a sprawling, lush estate. Also worth

checking out are the Reformed Church,

known as the Dorpskerk (Village Church)

and dating to the 11th century, and the

Marieke van Dijk.



12th-century Assumburg Castle with

its impressive French Classicist-style

gardens. Every December, the castle

grounds host a Christmas fair with live

music, performances and plenty of holiday

inspiration.

Visiting Heemskerk also means revelling

in its natural beauty. “The numerous

meadows and a belt of parks and

ponds make Heemskerk a green heart

in the northern Randstad,” says Marieke

van Dijk, Alderman of Tourism. “And all

this is but a 15 minute train ride from

Alkmaar and Haarlem and 30 minutes

from Amsterdam Central Station,” she

adds. But that is not all: come the spring,

the colourful fields of blooming flowers

nestled between the dunes are quite a

sight to behold. Experience their vibrant

splendour by cycling through the region

and meeting the growers. You will soon

realise why Heemskerk’s quality flowers

are renowned the world over.

Quiet beaches, rolling dunes

and vast woodlands

What makes Heemskerk especially in-

viting is its proximity to the seaside.

Heemskerk’s wide, pleasant beach not

only happens to be the cleanest in North

Holland, but it is perfect for those looking

for a more secluded place to sink their

toes into the sand. Van Dijk: “The beach

can be reached by bike or by foot only.

This results in a pleasant family beach,

never too crowded, where you will experience

the pure and restful character of

the Heemskerk coast.” You will not find

noisy bars at this beach either. Instead,

there is one friendly pavilion, De Vrijheit,

where you can sit back with a cup of coffee,

a cool drink or a satisfying dinner.

Heemskerk’s beach is part of one of

the country’s largest protected natural

areas. Known as the Noordhollands

Duinreservaat (North Holland Dunes

Reservation), this oasis of calm stretches

out over approximately 20 kilometres

and counts 5,300 hectares. For a more

active way to explore the area, put on

your hiking shoes and trek through the

sandy valleys and hills bordered to the

east by Europe’s largest expanse of parabolic

dunes. Another option is to venture

out on horseback or to bike through

the shady woodlands where you might

just encounter robust Highland cattle

lazily grazing.

The region’s cycling hub network offers

marked trails yet allows ample opportunity

to plan routes that suit you best.

The ‘Rondje Heemskerk’, for example, is

highly recommended: “This cycle route

follows the historic boundaries of the

municipality and is literally a bicycle tour

‘around Heemskerk’,” says Van Dijk. “It

is an interesting and varied journey over

dykes and through dunes, passing agricultural

land, meadows and water. You

will also see the town’s beautiful houses

and castles. In short, it is Heemskerk at

its best.”

Already planning a trip? The Stayokay

hostel at Assumburg Castle, Château

Marquette’s hotel, and one of the many

B&Bs, will most certainly make your stay

even more memorable.

Web: www.heemskerkzeevantijd.nl



A royal region

TEXT: KARIN VENEMA | PHOTOS: WASSENAAR AND VOORSCHOTEN

The region of Wassenaar and

Voorschoten is one of the Netherlands’

hidden gems for an enriching experience

through nature, culture and history.

The royal family once resided here,

and are still spotted regularly around

the local restaurants, country estates

and beaches – or at Luciano’s, the

country’s best ice cream parlour.

The municipalities of Wassenaar and

Voorschoten stretch out for 29 square

miles and are located only half an hour

away from Schiphol. It is a green, waterrich

area with beautiful historic villages

and much to see, do, taste and experience.

“I could tell you something about

so many things…there just wouldn’t be

enough room in the article,” smiles Arjenne

Vlietstra, advisor of recreation and tourism

at the adjoining municipalities. “The area

literally has it all: beaches, dunes, nature

reserves, country estates, castles, museums,

top-notch restaurants and shopping…

And you’re surrounded by rich history

through ancient linden trees, bunkers

leftover from the Second World War and

many listed buildings.”

Wassenaar: the seaside

country estate

A fifth of Wassenaar is covered by water,

and its coastline is more than eight kilometres

long. At the seaside, there are

many activities on offer. “You can stay

on the beach, sail a catamaran or enjoy

the tranquillity of nature,” says Vlietstra.

“Meijendel is a beautiful coastal dunes

area, with several marked walking trails

and cycling paths so you can explore at

your own pace. At the nature centre, you

can learn more about the rich bird life and

fragile vegetation.”

There are many lesser known sites to

be discovered too. Local blogger Femke

Hameetman describes how she tempted

Photo: Beeldbank Dunea



her teenage children into a nature trip by

telling them about the recluse’s cave in

the Backershagen forest. “When we got

there, my daughter asked me if I could

photograph her by the hermitage. ‘For

Instagram?’ I asked, and she nodded.

Funny: first she didn’t want to come, and

now she was sharing the outdoor feeling

with her online friends.”

Another interesting feature is the remains

of an immense defence work from the

Second World War, the so-called Atlantic

Wall. It is a 5,000-kilometre-long defence

line founded by the Germans. With nearly

1,000 metres of underground masonry

corridors, five more bunkers are connected

and inhabited by one of the largest

populations of the lake bat in Western

Europe. Wassenaar also boasts the

Voorlinden museum, that offers modern

and contemporary art, along with landscaped

and sculpture gardens. For thrill

seekers there is the amusement park

Duinrell, with many exciting rides and

a tropical swimming paradise with 16

unique water slides.

Voorschoten, pearl on the Vliet

Vlietland at Voorschoten is one of the most

attractive water sports, recreation and na-

ture areas in the Netherlands. The heart

of Vlietland is formed by three lakes, surrounded

by forests, creeks, sunbathing

areas and a park-like landscape. Vlietland

is connected to the Vliet, a beautiful, old

boat-canal. On the Vliet, you can take a

boat out for a spin and have a drink on a

terrace by the water. It is even possible to

reach the centre of Voorschoten by sloop.

“In the centre, there are information panels

that guide you through the rich history

of Voorschoten,” says Vlietstra. “Did you

know, for example, that the horse market

originated in 1200 and is one of the oldest

annual markets in the Netherlands?” Every

last weekend of July, the street fills up

with horses, there are market stalls, and

entertaining activities for children. People

from near and far flock to the centre: it is

Voorschoten’s most popular event. “And

when you’re there, make sure you check

out the 15th-century cottage in the middle

of restaurant La Casita, with a B&B

over the top. It’s little gems like this that

make Voorschoten such a special place,”

enthuses Vlietstra.

Cycling and walking along history

Both Wassenaar and Voorschoten have

beautiful cycling and walking routes, like

the one going past the famous country estates

or the route of the Engelandvaarders

(England sailors) that shows the story of

the Soldier of Orange. There are several

castles that are open to the public, like

Kasteel de Wittenburg, which has ten very

exclusive hotel rooms and regularly hosts

intimate concerts, or Kasteel Duivenvoorde,

that has many stories to tell. If you go

during the museum season, you can visit

the castle museum, stroll through the park

and marvel at the rich history of the castle

and estate. “And the royal estate de

Horsten is also worth a visit,” concludes

Vlietstra. “That is where King Willem-

Alexander and Queen Máximá used to live,

a green retreat in our royal region.”

Web: www.vorstelijkvrij.nl/highlights/

fietsroute-engelandvaarders




Photo: TEFAF & the City.

Maastricht. Photo: HugoThomassen

MAASTRICHT AND TEFAF

A melting pot of international

art and culture

TEXT: MICHIEL STOL | PHOTOS: MAASTRICHT MARKETING

Maastricht is the Netherlands’ most

European (and cosmopolitan) city, located

at the heart of where the country

meets Germany and Belgium. From the

moment you set foot in Maastricht, you

feel a unique energy and dynamism

of history, art and culture. “And when

TEFAF - one of the biggest and most

influential art and culture fairs - lands

in the city, you can feel an extra layer of

chic,” says Leontien Mees, managing

director of Maastricht Marketing.

The name Maastricht comes from the

Latin ‘Mosae Trajectum’, meaning ‘crossing

over the Meuse’, which refers to the

bridge over the river that the Romans

built here around the first century AD.

The city has been inhabited ever since,

and today, it is the city in the Netherlands

with the largest number of different nationalities

among its inhabitants.

“All these international influences from

then and now are visible in the historic

buildings and elegant houses, where

you will find a rich variety of architectural

styles from the early Roman period to the

Maastricht Renaissance.” It also brings a

whole lot of art and culture, which can be

witnessed during the annual TEFAF (14

to 24 March).

TEFAF & the City

Founded in 1988, TEFAF is a not-forprofit

foundation which runs three fairs

internationally in Maastricht and New

York, as well as a programme of initiatives

designed to enrich the global art

community. TEFAF is one of the most influential

and dynamic arts organisations

in the world. Each year in March, TEFAF

Maastricht provides a showcase for

around 275 leading international dealers.

In the MECC, the main exhibition hall for

TEFAF, visitors can indulge themselves

in 7,000 years of art and art history.

“One of the highlights is an original 18thcentury

doll house, exhibited by John



Endlich Antiquairs,” reveals Mees.

Koopman Rare Art brings another unique

piece: The Shield of Achilles by Philip

Rundell. And you certainly must not

miss the portrait of Frédéric Maurice

de La Tour, the 17th-century Governor

of Maastricht, exhibited by The Weiss

Gallery.

The exhibition in the MECC is far from the

only highlight. Before, during and after

TEFAF, the city of Maastricht is buzzing

with expositions, art installations, theatre

and music. Take the visual arts haven the

Bonnefanten Museum, for instance. Besides

their own amazing collection, the

museum is running the exposition Someone

in my house by American artist David

Lynch, which can be visited until 28 April.

Vrijthof

One of the most famous places in

Maastricht is the Vrijthof square in the

middle of the old city. Throughout the

year and especially during TEFAF, this

is the place where you find everything

from amazing food and drinks, to

performances at the Theatre on the

Vrijthof, where during TEFAF there are

various dance and classical music

recitals, including shows by the South

Netherlands Philharmonic and the

Maastricht Conservatory.

Across the theatre on the Vrijthof you

will find another of Maastricht’s historical

gems: the 11th-century Basilica of Saint

Servatius, named after the first bishop

of the country. This is one of the oldest

churches of the Netherlands. Besides the

amazing chapel, the basilica also holds

a treasure room, containing the shrine

in which Saint Servatius has his final resting

place.

Just around the corner there is a vibrant

shopping centre with well-known

high street shops, as well as independent

boutiques. There, you will also find

Dominicanen, the most unique book

shop in the world, situated in the former

Dominican church. “Even if you are not

out looking for books, it is an absolute

treat to stroll through the store and drink a

cup of coffee there.” Strolling through the

cultural quarter ‘Sphinx kwartier’ and the

Frontenpark are also an absolute must.

“Maastricht and TEFAF create special

encounters between people with a love

of art, culture and the beautiful things in

life. And they can fully enjoy themselves

during, before or after their visit to the

TEFAF.” The city and surrounding region

are always brimming with high-profile exhibitions,

theatre and music productions,

breathtaking dance performances and

special events. “The perfect place to relax

and enjoy culture, art and life.”

Web: www.tefafandthecity.com

Theater aan het Vrijthof. Photo: Alina Frieske

Bonnefantenmuseum. Photo: David Lynch

Theater aan het Vrijthof.

Photo: Conservatorium Maastricht

Theater aan het Vrijthof. Photo: Arno Paul

TEFAF. Photo: Loraine Bodewes



Archive Bridge.

Photo: © Al Hajem

Mayor Ahmed Marcouch. Photo: © Al Hajem

ARNHEM

The deep scars of war

TEXT: ARNE ADRIAENSSENS

The city of Arnhem is known as the

backdrop of Operation Market Garden,

the airborne mission which would

stop the Second World War but resulted

in an unseen bloodbath and defeat.

For its citizens, the battle was just the

prelude to a severe winter of famine

and uprooting.

In September 1944, the troops of Nazi

Germany stopped the Western forces on

their mission to resolve the war once and

for all. The Rijnbrug in Arnhem became the

battlefield for one of the most gruesome

passages in the already black book of the

Second World War: the battle of Arnhem.

Thousands of losses on both sides of the

river ended with the Brits and Poles waving

a white flag, prolonging the war for another

nine months. That is where the military

transcripts stop. For the city of Arnhem,

however, the worst had yet to come. “The

battle left Arnhem in ruins,” says Ahmed

Marcouch, mayor of Arnhem. “The city

never really was a target. It was just unfortunately

located on the route to the Ruhr

Area, where they wanted to defeat Hitler.

Arnhem paid the price for Europe’s liberty.

90 per cent of all buildings were destroyed

and the Nazis ordered our citizens to evacuate

the city immediately.”

Packing nothing but the bare essentials,

the villagers of Arnhem left. Most of them

expected to be back home soon, but it

would take until the armistice, nine months

later, for them to return. “People found

shelter but lived in close quarters, sometimes

even in a shed or a henhouse. The

long war made food and coal scarce, resulting

in a long winter of extreme famine

and frostbite, taking thousands of lives.”

With the liberation, the people of Arnhem

returned to their hometown. Yet, all they

found there was a collection of rubble and

bombshells. “While the Netherlands was

celebrating their regained freedom, people

here were collecting the junk. Even today,

75 years later, we still aren’t finished. The

scars of the war are still noticeable in the

streets and the people.”

Since 1945, Arnhem has always paid their

respects to the heroic veterans and the

suffering citizens. Initially, in a more traditional

memorial with the Polish and British

veterans and the involved ambassadors

present, and since 2014, during the annual

Bridge to Liberation Experience (20

September 2019), an evening of culture on

a floating stage on the Rhine. By walking

the liberation route, visiting an Airborne

museum or exploring the scars in the city

and its surrounding villages, you can immerse

yourself even more in the tragedies

that have been. “After 75 years, the people

of Arnhem are finally starting to come

to terms with their past and dare to dwell

on the traumas of the evacuation. This city

will carry the mark of its history for a long

time to come. You can get people out of

the war, yet, getting the war out of people

is harder to do.”

Web: www.airborne-herdenkingen.nl

Photo: Chiel Eijt



‘The Stonehenge of the Netherlands’

TEXT: ARNE ADRIAENSSENS | PHOTOS: HUNEBEDCENTRUM

Looking for a faraway trip on a shoestring?

Then travel to the Stone Age this year. At the

Hunebedcentrum, the first farmers are still

afoot, and the biggest dolmen of the Benelux

rises from the ground in all its glory.

“Dolmens are tombs from the Stone Age,” explains,

Harrie Wolters, director of the centre.

“Ours is about 5,000 years old.” The mystical

structures, which you can find all over Europe,

exist out of at least three monoliths: two on the

ground with a third one on top. Afterwards, the

dolmen builders used to construct a hill of soil

over it. Nowadays, only the robust skeletons remain.

“The building of the dolmens was a turning

point in human history. Up until then, they

were nomads, roaming the land. That our ancestors

decided to settle and build these complex

structures, is incredible. They had to be

innovative to get the stones in place, and collaborate

a lot. We have tried to build one ourselves

and we’ve failed. This is the Stonehenge of the

Netherlands!”

Besides the impressive colossus, there is

much to explore in and around the Hunebedcentrum.

In the museum, you find dioramas, games

and films. Outside, in the Prehistoric Park, you

meet the dolmen builders in their reconstructed

village, where they show and tell you all about

their era. In the magnificent Hondsrug UNESCO

Geopark and the impressive stone garden, you

can enjoy the best nature has to offer. “Companies

are also more than welcome here. Our auditorium

and restaurant can be rented for lectures

and congresses and the centre is the ideal getaway

for an unforgettable day of team building.”

Web: www.hunebedcentrum.eu

Museum.


Mahjouba.

The future of crafts

TEXT: ARNE ADRIAENSSENS | PHOTOS: FRIES MUSEUM

Car and motorcycle enthusiasts will

not disagree: motorised vehicles can

be breathtaking. Yet, out of all their

parts, the engine is rarely the piece

that dazzles us with its allure. Eric Van

Hove’s art pieces are an exception

to that rule. With the help of artisan

hands from all corners of the world,

he creates beautiful power machines,

which he now exhibits in the Fries

Museum.

The story of Eric Van Hove is one without

borders. The Belgian artist spent many

years in Algeria but has spent a fair share

of his youth in Cameroon as well. “Eric

is not of one nationality,” explains Eelco

van der Lingen, curator of the exhibition

at the Fries Museum. “This is obvious in

his art, which is neither European, nor

African, but ‘glocal’. It talks about the

impact of local tendencies on the global

reality.” Throughout his oeuvre, Van Hove

mixes his fascination for craftwork with

the symbol and catalyst of industrialisation:

the engine. He removes it from its

context and duplicates it by hand. “This

creates a paradox, since engines and

crafts are each other’s opposites. You

assemble something by hand which will

afterwards replace the manual work itself.

Where engines turn, crafts die.”

Fenduq

Nevertheless, Van Hove’s work is no critique

on the way we manufacture things

today. It merely highlights the nature of

our modern production methods. “You

can almost draw a line on the world map

between the industrialised west and the

crafty south,” Van der Lingen illustrates.

“Here, we hardly manufacture anything by

hand anymore, whereas in most developing

countries it is the standard.” Therefore,

Van Hove has assembled a big team of

different artisans in Morocco to build the

machines with him. Each of them can

count on decades of experience and lots

of talent. In his workshop, which he calls

Fenduq, he and his team push the boundaries

of what crafts can manufacture today.

“Last year, the Fries Museum has

purchased ‘D9T’, one of Van Hove’s biggest

engines. The original D9T-engine was

designed for a bulldozer by Caterpillar,

for the construction industry. Yet, it became

infamous when restrictive regimes



used the powerful machine for clamping

down protests. The parts Van Hove picks

out to recreate always carry a history with

them, they always have something beastly.”

His reproduction of the D9T consists

of 290 separate parts in 46 different materials.

No less than 41 artisans contributed

to completing this magnificent treat of

engineering.

Direct impact on the world

Yet, aesthetics are not Van Hove’s priority.

As a contemporary, conceptual artist,

his focus lies on telling a story to his audience.

“With their big size and incredible

details, his works are, of course, beautiful

and attractive. But for him, they have to

transcend that. They have to have content.”

With his art rooted on both sides of

the Strait of Gibraltar, he is making art for

a very diverse audience as well. Not only

do the levels of taste and style vary broadly,

but also the way we consume art is

different. “Here in Europe, we expose his

work in the sacred, nearly sterile environ-

ment of a museum. A place where people

take their time to observe it without any

distraction. In Africa, you hardly find any

museums. There, art is simply enjoyed on

the streets. That immediately gives meaning

to his pieces, since they also have a

direct impact on the world outside the

walls of cultural temples.”

This impact is very noticeable with his

work ‘The Mahjouba Initiative’, a social

art-project in which Van Hove and his

team create a handmade, electric motorcycle

for the Moroccan market. In his

characteristic crafty and collective way,

he and an army of artisans join forces to

create five prototypes which will eventually

lead to the design of one ultimate

Moroccan bike that will be manufactured

manually on a big scale.

The Fryske Motor

“Throughout the next year, while he exhibits

in the Fries Museum, Van Hove will also

work on a piece inspired by our region:

Friesland. This has always been a district

of artisans and farmers. Nowadays, however,

we only perform crafts for the sake

of nostalgia. We manufacture the objects

our ancestors have been producing for

centuries, but we don’t innovate anymore.”

That is why Van Hove will create

The Fryske Motor (The Frisian Engine), a

handmade replica of a forest harvester’s

engine as they are used by the local farmers.

Besides Frisian craftsmen, Moroccan,

Swedish and Indonesian artisans will

create pieces for it as well. “All of them

perform the same endangered art form:

crafts. That connects them, whether they

do it in Marrakesh or here in Leeuwarden.”

Explore Eric Van Hove’s work

yourself from 2 February 2019 to 5

January 2020 at the Fries Museum in

Leeuwarden, the Netherlands.

Web: www.friesmuseum.nl

D9T.

Mahjouba. Photo: © Meriem Abid

Photo: © Ruben van Vliet

Dorigin. Photo: © Eric Van Hove



Corrie ten Boom showing the entrance to the tiny hiding place

– where six people hid for 47 hours before they were rescued.

Astonishing story of family that hid

Jews during WWII

TEXT: KOEN GUIKING | PHOTOS: CORRIE TEN BOOM HOUSE FOUNDATION

The extraordinary story of the Ten

Boom family, devoted Christians who

offered shelter to Jews and others in

need of protection during World War

II, now lives in an impressive museum

in Haarlem.

By opening up their home to those hunted

down by Germany’s Nazi regime, the

Ten Booms knowingly put their own lives

at risk. But they felt it as their duty to help

‘God’s chosen people’ and those who

were on their side.

The Ten Boom House, where father

Casper ten Boom and his daughters

Betsie and Corrie helped to save dozens

of lives during Nazi occupation, has been

a museum since 1988. When inside this

old building, guests can begin to imagine

what it must have been like to hide and

live here. The museum tells the story of

courageous peaceful resistance, incredible

selflessness and devotion, but also of

the immense dangers that were looming

outside. It vividly illustrates how the refugees

and family members in the house

prayed and sang together and how the

Ten Booms, whose clock and watchmaking

business was on the ground floor

of the house, would use code language

to converse with allies. They would, for

instance, request a certain part for a

watch that was just brought in, meaning

they actually needed help to find shelter

for yet another refugee.

Despite all the safety precautions, the

Ten Booms were eventually sold out to

the Nazi regime by a Dutchman who had

come to their home saying he needed

money to help a Jewish family. Corrie ten

Boom fell into the trap, offered to help

and asked the man to come back in

the evening. German secret police then

ransacked the house. This betrayal, as

well as the miraculous escape from death

of four men and two women whom Corrie

ten Boom hid in a secret hiding place

moments before she got arrested, have

been well documented. Corrie ten Boom

lived to tell the tale and her book The

Hiding Place has been translated into

over 60 languages. She has travelled

the world to spread the message that

‘God will give us love and forgive our

enemies’.

Unable to visit the museum?

Take the virtual tour on:

www.corrietenboom.com


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