The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing: A Blacksmith’s Guide to Simple Lock Mechanisms

SECTION I
- Technical Information -
Tools, Techniques and Procedures
6

This section will introduce you to all the basic metalworking skills that will allow you to turn raw materials
into tools, hardware or mechanical parts.
Terms Used in This Book
The following is a list of terms and phrases used throughout the book. Unless specified in the accompanying
text, their meaning is listed below.
• Sheet metal. All sheet metal used is 16 gauge.
• Steel, metal, stock, round bar (stock), square bar (stock), flat bar (stock), bar stock = mild steel unless it
is specified as carbon steel.
• Carbon steel. All carbon steel used is from recycled coil or leaf springs.
• Any forging term, e.g.: drawing down, forge down to …, fuller, cross peen, implies a heat cycle even if it is
not specified in the description.
• Offsets, shoulder, step, transitions, refer to the way a forging changes from one cross section to another.
• Rivets & tenons are forged cold unless specified.
• Temper to a (color). Parts that need to be heat treated will usually have only the final temper color
mentioned. However, it is understood that it has undergone a complete normalizing and hardening
process before tempering.
• Spruce Forge Manual = the first edition of The New Spruce Forge Manual of Locksmithing.
• The quenching oil we use is Canola oil (cooking oil). Recycled oils such as motor oil or hydraulic fluid
can put out toxic fumes.
Standard Tools
In any trade, there are always tools that make the difference between doing a job well and merely doing
serviceable work. Making locks is no exception. This section describes some of the basic tools that should be
in every shop.
RULERS: A good quality stainless steel ruler is a must
for any shop. These rulers have engraved markings
graduated to 1/64” (0.5 mm). The 6” (150 mm) is the
most valuable for measuring stock and setting up
dividers. The longer rules can be of lesser quality since
they are mainly used as straight edges.
DIVIDERS can be easily set up with rulers that have
engraved markings.
7

VERNIER CALIPERS: These are the inexpensive calipers that are only accurate to 1/16” (2 mm). They are
used to quickly measure a piece of stock. They should be made of metal since the plastic calipers melt very
easily around hot work.
SMALL SQUARES: The carpenter-style square is probably the most versatile and should be the first type of
square that you buy. It can be laid flat on the surface of the work, and it can be used to measure the accuracy
of an inside or outside corner. Many sizes are available.
Sample square
Square being used
HACKSAWS: Buy the best hacksaw frame and the best blades you can afford. Hacksaws do a lot of work
when you are starting out and the time lost trying to work with a saw that doesn’t hold the blade securely
can really add up. Hacksaw blades are easier to start if at least two of the teeth are in contact with the work.
PROPANE TORCH: A regular plumber’s propane
torch can be used to draw the temper on small tools
(see Heat Treating, p. 42), light the tinder to start a
coal forge, or burn the paper pattern from a pattern
piece.
8

PLIERS: An assortment of lineman’s pliers, needle nose pliers and locking pliers will be needed to hold or
shape small parts.
SCRIBERS: A scriber is used to trace the outlines of pattern pieces and scribe reference lines onto metal.
Standard metalworking scribers usually have a straight point and a bent point to reach into awkward spots.
Sample scriber Scriber tracing a pattern Bent leg, tracing stock
DIVIDERS: There are three different forms of dividers: winged, firm joint, and spring. Each type is made up
of two legs that are pointed at one end and connected by a pivoting joint at the opposite end. They are each
designed to do a specific job.
Winged dividers are used when the divider setting needs to stay fixed regardless of how the divider is used.
These dividers have an additional curved arm that is used to lock the two legs firmly in place. This allows
them to withstand a great deal of handling and abuse without losing their setting.
Firm joint dividers are strictly a measuring tool used to make a series of very quick comparative
measurements. They are not the best choice as a gauge while forging since the points of the dividers are
held in place only by the friction built into the hinge joint. Many smiths compensate for this by hammering
the joint so tightly that the dividers require a hammer to change the adjustment. Firm joint dividers used
for measuring need to have just enough resistance to hold the setting yet be easily adjusted by hand. They
should also have a consistent tension through the entire range of motion.
9

Tools for Precision Work
LIGHTING: Adequate lighting is the most important
item to consider when setting up a space for doing
precision work. It is impossible to cut out or shape a
pattern piece accurately if you cannot see the outline
drawn on the metal. Portable lighting that can be set up
as needed offers the simplest solution to this problem.
EYE LOUPES OR HEADSETS: Some form of
magnification is a great help for aligning center punch
marks accurately or when doing precision cuts or file
work on small parts.
BENCHWORK VISE: A machinist’s vise or a
blacksmith’s leg vise can be used for locksmithing
provided the vise jaws are in good condition.
To hold small work securely, the jaws must have faces
with square edges that align perfectly at the top and
sides.
12

Vise inserts are an additional set of jaws made to fit
inside the jaws of a larger vise. They are a simple way of
adapting a vise to hold oddly shaped pieces. Each vise
insert is made to solve a specific problem.
A small machinist’s vise mounted to a square pipe is a
good way to adapt a vise with worn jaws. It also raises
the vise jaws to a more comfortable working height for
chiseling or filing.
PLANISHING ANVIL: The face of your forging anvil can be used to hammer refine the finish of a forged piece.
However, it would be more comfortable to work on a separate smaller anvil that is mounted approximately
10” (250 mm) higher than the face of a forging anvil.
This smaller anvil should be reserved for finer work. It must have a smooth face and well-defined edges. It
is used to make pieces that must be left “as forged” or that need to be further refined with a file. The smooth
anvil face, combined with careful hammering, will leave a fine-textured finish on the piece. This anvil could
be a stake anvil, a small bench anvil, or a polished section of railroad rail. If shop space is at a premium, this
anvil must be light enough to be moved in and out of the workspace. If it can be permanently mounted, place
it within arm’s reach of the fire. This will minimize the heat lost by small parts before they reach the anvil.
A small block of steel can be mounted
in the anvil or a vise.
The stake anvil is usually shaped to
resemble an anvil.
A railroad rail fastened to a solid base
can make a good planishing anvil.
13

Blacksmithing and Benchwork
Introduction
Blacksmiths use a forge to heat bar stock until it is soft enough to be hammered into a different shape.
This process is called forging and it was how most iron and steel parts were made, up until the Industrial
Revolution. The forging process enabled the smith to move metal very efficiently but it did leave the surface
of the metal covered with hammer marks and a coating of oxidized metal called forge scale. Some things
made by the smith could be used without further refinement, however, if the piece needed to have a smooth
flat surface or precisely fitting parts the work was taken to the workbench and further refined using hand
tools.
The process of working at a workbench with hand tools to refine the shape or overall dimensions of a rough
forging or piece of stock is called benchwork. Before the machine age, all precision metal parts were either
finished or totally cut out by hand using only chisels, files, hacksaws and powdered abrasives. The work
could be very demanding, also the skill needed to achieve the accuracy required to assemble mechanical
parts took years to master. Fortunately, this level of accuracy is not needed to finish and assemble most locks.
Even though the benchwork trade has long been replaced with faster and more accurate machines, it is still
an essential skill for any blacksmith wanting to fully understand the role that hand tools played prior to the
machine age.
We feel that the locksmithing projects in this book will provide an excellent opportunity to explore this form
of “medieval machining”. The scale of the parts is small enough to enable the work to proceed quite quickly
and it is rewarding to see a part being shaped using only the tools that you have made.
This section will cover the basic information needed to go back to a time when owning a forge meant you
had the technology to make all the tools needed to build everything else.
16

Setting Up a Blacksmith Shop:
Equipment & Supplies
The Forge
Having your own forge is a real asset in any shop and since this book is designed to introduce the making
of locks to blacksmiths, forging does play a big part in most of the projects. A forge does not need to be a
dedicated building or space in your workshop. Many smiths have portable units that they set up whenever
they need to do some forging.
Solid Fuel Forges
A blacksmith’s forge requires a very hot fire to get the steel to a working temperature. Burning some form of
solid fuel has been the only option available to smiths for centuries. To this day, the versatility and quality of
heat from a properly managed fire cannot be matched. If you live in a rural area that is close to a good supply
of fuel, this type of forge is an excellent choice.
Commonly Used Fuels
Coal, charcoal, and coke are the most common options available for a solid fuel forge. The availability of
these fuels varies quite a bit. If you are interested in setting up a traditional forge, the first thing you will need
to do is find out which fuel, if any, is available in your area.
The coal most commonly used by blacksmiths
is a soft, bituminous coal. It contains a lot of
volatile material that must be burned off before it
can be used in the center of the forge fire. It does
produce a very hot fire, however it requires a time
commitment in order to learn how to manage the
fire properly.
How to Manage a Bituminous Coal Fire
The first time you build a fire with raw coal, it will
produce a lot of smoke and it will likely need a lot
of kindling to keep the fire going.
As the coal turns into coke, the center of the fire will
start to burn cleaner and produce more heat. From
this point on, it is important to keep the coke in the
center of the fire and have the raw coal around the
outside edges. The heat from the fire will turn the
coal to coke, and the flames from the center of the
fire will consume most of the smoke from the coal.
17

TONGS
Tongs are long handled pliers designed to hold specific shapes and sizes of bar stock. Here is a brief description
of how to use some of the most common tong shapes.
Flat bit tongs are the general-purpose tongs in the
blacksmith shop. They are not the best choice for
holding work while forging. However, they are
a very versatile form of tongs that can easily be
adapted to do the many jobs around the shop that
involve handling hot metal.
Flat bit tongs can be used to forge flat stock but they
are not as secure as box tongs for forging flat stock
since the stock can work loose while hammering
the edge. This photo shows how flat bit tongs
cannot prevent the work from moving sideways in
the jaws. As a result they are not the best choice
for forging flat stock. We recommend using box
jaw tongs (see below) for holding flat stock while
forging whenever possible.
Bolt tongs are the best choice for holding round or
square stock. The shape of the bits wraps around
the outside of the stock providing a very secure
grip on the metal.
Box tongs are used to hold flat stock. Like bolt
tongs they hold the work securely because the jaws
surround the stock on all sides.
20

BLACKSMITHING ANVILS
The image of the blacksmith’s anvil is familiar to everyone.
They come in many shapes and sizes, and they all tend to
have the same elements.
Horn
Face
Pritchel hole
Hardie hole
It is natural to assume that this iconic tool must be found
before any work can be done. In fact, a good forging anvil
can be made from readily available bar stock.
A simple forging anvil can be made from any block of steel
that can be securely fastened to a heavy base. If the anvil and
base can be fastened together as a unit, the total weight of
the unit will contribute to the effectiveness of the anvil. For
example, a 50 lb. steel block welded to a well-designed 150
lb. frame filled with 100 lbs. of concrete will turn into a very
stable 300 lb. anvil. On the other hand, the same 50 lb. block
simply sitting on the same frame is just a 50 lb. anvil that
happens to be sitting on a very stable 250 lb. base.
Since almost all of the work done by a blacksmith involves
reshaping metal, a simple square block is all you need.
FORGING VISE
The traditional post vise is specifically designed to take the
amount of hammering that needs to be done to shape some
larger parts. However, any large machinist’s style vise will
work as a forging vise provided it is made from a good
quality casting or solid steel.
21

More hammering will create more fullers and the
result will be a section of bar that is thinner and
longer than the original bar stock.
To complete the fullering process it is necessary to
hammer all the high spots back into the bar. This is
done by returning the hammer to a vertical position
and hammering until the surface becomes smooth.
Driving these high spots back into the bar also forces
the metal to become longer.
The Process of Drawing Down
When you are forging a bar into a new shape, it is important to always do the fullering on a four-sided
forging regardless of the final shape you are trying to achieve. If the final shape happens to be square or
rectangular, then you can go directly to roughing out that shape. However, if the finished piece needs to be
round, you will need to start the process by creating a square bar before starting any fullering.
On a square or rectangular forging, any
irregularities in the size or shape of the bar can
be easily seen because you have only two planes
of reference to keep track of. The two sides of
the forging can be checked quickly by simply
rotating the bar 90-degrees. On a round forging,
missed hammer blows or thin sections can show
up anywhere around the circumference. This
makes it a lot harder to decide how to correct any
irregularities in the shape.
On a four sided shape the anvil always
creates a flat face that can be used as a
reference edge for the opposite side
Iregular shapes with multiple sides rarely
have a face that can be used as a reference
during the forging process
When you have the size and shape the way you
want it, you can turn the square into a round bar
by first hammering the corners of the square back
into the bar to create an octagonal shape, and
then hammering the corners of the octagon into a
hexagonal shape.
28

Forging Points/Tapers
Fullering a flat taper
Forging a taper or a point
is another example of how
drawing down is used to shape
a bar. Forging a flat taper
involves gradually increasing
the amount of fullering that is
done to one side of the bar as
the forging moves to the tip.
Finished forging
1 2 3 4 5
As the thickness of the bar decreases the effect that the hammer
weight has on the metal increases dramatically. To counteract this,
it is important to greatly reduce the intensity of the hammering
as the bar begins to thin down.
Fullering side 1
Forging a point is simply
creating a taper on both sides of
the bar at once. It is important
that the same amount of
fullering be done to each side
of the bar in each heat.
Fullering side 2
1 2 3 4 5
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
1
2
Rotate the bar from side 1 to
side 2 during the heat to make
sure the same number of fullers
are applied to each face.
29

Planishing
Planishing is refining the outer surface of the forging without changing the cross section. It is often combined
with any forging operation that results in a change to the cross section of the bar. The hottest part of the heat
is always used for all the rough forging. Once the bar has cooled down past the lower end of the forging
range the smith can start correcting any irregularities in the forging that might have happened during that
heat. This is an effective way to use the lowest end of the forging range to clean up problems that may be
developing and give you a solid frame of reference for the next heat. Light hammering with the flat face of
the hammer combined with the low heat will confine the effects of the hammering to the surface of the metal.
The work must be completely supported by the anvil in order to prevent any further distortion.
Cross Peening
Cross peening is fullering the bar by spreading its volume across the width of the bar. The cross peen of
the hammer is used for this operation. Unlike the main hammer face, the peen of the hammer is only used
for fullering, so it is wedge shaped with a narrow, rounded face. The narrow face of the cross peen sits at
90-degrees to the handle. Driving the cross peen in the center of the bar will create fullers that are parallel to
the length of the bar causing the bar to become wider, without affecting the length very much.
30

Bending
Bending is changing the shape of a bar without changing the dimensions of the bar. The pressure applied
to the bar, in this case, will not change the cross section of the bar, just move that part of the bar to different
location. Bending can be done over the edge of the anvil or horn or by using a jig that has the shape you need.
Freehand bending is used for simple bends when the exact
shape or size of the bend is not critical.
Bending around a jig is the best way to forge several bends that
must be identical.
The most common application of freehand bending used in
locksmithing is to bend a simple hinge barrel at the end of a bar.
The bend is started over the edge of the anvil. The length of
the bar that is hanging over the edge will determine the radius
of the bend. It is important to hit the end of the bar to create a
smooth curve.
Hitting close to the anvil will create a sharp bend.
31

It is important to use the right sized punch for
the drift that will be used to shape the hole. The
perimeter of the slot punch must be slightly smaller
than the circumference of the drift. For example, a
slot punch that is 1/4” x 1/2” (6 mm x 13 mm) has a
perimeter of 1-1/2” (38 mm). This punch is used for
a 5/8” (16 mm) drift which has a circumference of
1-7/8” (48 mm).
B
A
Cir. = 2A + 2B
Brazing in the Forge
Brazing is a way of joining metal parts together. The bond is made by melting a metal that has a lower
melting point than the parts being brazed. When the brazing metal becomes molten it will flow into the joint
and fuse to each part. This creates a very strong bond with little risk of damaging the original parts.
Using a forge to braze pieces together is a very primitive but effective way of joining pieces that are either too
small to be riveted together or too delicate to be forge welded.
Brazing in a forge is simple in concept but not always that simple to do.
Brazing in the forge usually requires creating an
assembly that will prevent the parts to be brazed
from moving out of position. In most cases the parts
can be held together with heavy steel wire.
The metal doing the brazing is added to this
assembly. A bronze alloy is usually used for brazing;
however, copper wire produces similar results and
is more readily available in a variety of sizes.
When the assembly begins to get hot, a flux is added
to the parts. The flux allows the molten copper to
adhere to the parts. The flux is household Borax
found in the laundry detergent aisle of any grocery
store.
38

A flux spoon is a long-handled spoon that is used to
place flux on a joint while the piece is in the fire.
All of this is then slowly heated until the copper
becomes molten and flows into the joint between the
parts. The surface of the copper will turn iridescent
a few seconds before it becomes molten.
When the parts have cooled, the wire can be cut off
the piece. Any sharp points or edges can be cleaned
up with a file.
Everything will be covered with a crude form of
glass created by the molten flux.
To remove the flux bring the piece back up to a dull red heat. A wire brush can then be used remove the
heavy coating of flux from the surface. Let the piece cool to room temperature. Use a file to clean up the
excess copper and any remaining flux that has flowed onto the surface.
39

The sequence of colors above will appear in order as more heat is applied.
As the colors start moving towards the tip, remove
the torch to allow the heat to equalize. This will
widen the bands of color and slow down the
progression of colors towards the tip. Apply the
heat only when the colors have stopped advancing.
Note: when tempering in a toaster oven only the
desired temper color will appear.
When the desired color reaches the tip, quench the
tool in water to stop the color from advancing any
further. Some experimentation will be required to
determine the proper temper color. The tool can
now be tested. If the cutting edge is too brittle,
you will be able to reheat the tool and continue the
tempering process by moving a darker temper color
to the cutting edge. If the cutting edge is too soft, the
entire heat treating process will need to be repeated
in order to to reintroduce a lighter temper color to
the cutting edge.
44

Benchwork
Benchwork covers all the traditional hand tool techniques that were once used to cut, shape, or assemble a
piece of metal when it was cold. All the metalworking trades relied on benchwork to some extent. Blacksmiths
could produce most of their work using only the forge and anvil, however, they did work at a bench to fit
and assemble parts for tools or hardware. Tinsmiths, on the other hand, worked exclusively at the bench. The
locksmithing projects in this book fall somewhere in the middle. Some locks are almost totally made in the
forge and others are almost totally benchwork.
Even though benchwork no longer has any place in industry, we feel that it can be a great benefit to anyone
willing to take on the challenge of learning an old way of doing things.
BASIC CHISELS AND FULLERS
Benchwork requires several types of chisels that are
designed to do specific jobs. Cold chisels need to
withstand heavy hammering. They are used to cut
very thick shavings or to be driven directly into the
surface of the metal.
Engraving chisels are more delicate. They have a
thinner profile and are struck with light hammers.
They are used only to remove fine shaving from a
piece.
Each type can be made in any shape to suit the requirements of the job.
45

Filing
Files are used to remove metal in a precise and
controlled manner.
Files normally have cutting edges on all four sides.
This is not a problem when filing a flat surface,
however, a common file can easily start cutting into
an adjacent surface when working in a confined
space.
To avoid this problem a safe edge file is used any
time a tenon is cut into a bar. Here the narrow edge
of the file has been ground away so it can safely slide
along the top of the vise while the face of the file cuts
into the bar.
Any surface can be ground away to create a safe
edge. In this example both faces have been ground
smooth to create a narrow safe edge file to clean up
the bottom of a deep notch.
In locksmithing, it is common to have to file small
pieces that are hard to clamp in a vise. Hardwood
blocks can be cut to shape to make jigs to hold
irregularly shaped pieces.
46

Bending Sheet Metal
A simple method for bending sheet metal parts, where the part that is being bent will not be put under any
stress, is to use a sheet metal fuller to create a shallow groove in the metal. This groove will force the part to
bend at that location.
A fuller is a tool that is specifically designed to create a groove
or “fuller” into the surface of a piece of metal. It is made the
same way as a cold chisel however the sharp bevel is replaced
by an edge with a radius.
This fuller is used to create a shallow groove along the entire
length of the line that needs to be bent.
The fuller is driven directly into the surface of the metal. The
shallow groove created by the fuller will create a thin area
that will be easier to bend than the surrounding metal.
The depth of this groove should only be 1/3 the thickness of
the metal.
Flexing the metal will cause it to bend in a very tight radius
along that line.
47

Metal parts that need to have the full thickness of the metal at the bend area will require a different approach.
One half of the bend will need to be clamped in a vise or along the edge of a heavy bar that is clamped in a vise.
Using a pair of flat bit tongs or an adjustable wrench, pressure is applied to the free end of the metal. Using a
wooden mallet or a wood block, strike the bend area to focus the pressure in that location. This will cause the
metal to bend slightly just above the jaws of the vise.
Longer parts that cannot fit in the vise jaws will need
to be supported on a heavy bar held in a vise or
clamped to the edge of a workbench.
48
A longer bend will also need to be done in small increments. The process starts at one edge of the plate. This
edge is bent as described above. Next, the unbent section beside the first bent section is bent until the edge
aligns with the edge of first section. When the entire length of the bend is at the same angle, you can repeat
the process to move the bend slightly further. A full 90-degree bend will need to be done in several stages.

A square corner can be shaped in sheet metal using the same
principles that are used on hot metal.
The corner is shaped by hammering the metal when it is cold.
Cold hammering will create stress in the metal. This stress will
reduce the malleability of the metal and cause it to harden.
This is referred to as work hardening. The first sign of work
hardening is the metal starting to resist being shaped by the
hammer. Continued hammering will continue to stress the
work area and will eventually result in a fracture that will ruin
the work. To restore the metal’s malleability, it will need to be
normalized (see Heat Treating Carbon Steel, page 42).
Hatchet Stake
A hatchet stake is specialized anvil with a very thin blade-like
profile that is used to support metal while it is being bent. It
is normally used to shape the light gauge sheet metal used by
tinsmiths, but it can also be used on heavier stock. The hatchet
stake is used when a bend needs to be made close to one edge.
The work is struck with a wooden mallet or a simple hardwood
block. The narrow profile and steep angled edge of the stake
makes it possible to bend very small parts.
49

The hatchet stake is often used to start the bend on
small cylinders. The outside edges of the cylinder
are bent first.
These edges must be shaped as closely as possible
to the final radius before bending the center of the
cylinder. Cardboard gauges work well for this.
The bend in the center of the cylinder is done by
driving a fuller along the inside edge. The cylinder
is supported by a heavy round bar that is bent in
half.
The basic shape of the cylinder is finished by
hammering the outside edge of the cylinder around
its circumference. It may be necessary to normalize
(see p. 42) the cylinder during this process to remove
any spring tension that may have developed. Once
the cylinder has been fully softened it will be possible
to hammer the seam completely shut.
50

Using the Plans to Create Full Scale Patterns
Each lock project in this manual has a set of plans that show every detail of the lock mechanism as well as
all the parts needed to assemble the lock. The plans are not drawn to any scale. The information in the plans
will need to be translated into a full-scale drawing. The full-scale drawing can then be copied and used as the
working patterns. Some of the parts are easier to translate into full scale drawings by using the grid method
rather than a series of measurements. For those parts, we also included a grid pattern as an option.
All the plans have been built around either
reference lines or reference edges. Reference
lines are lines added to the drawings that
can be used as a baseline for measuring.
They do not represent a detail that needs to
be cut out.
Reference lines
Reference edges
Reference edges are the lines that define
the outline of the part itself.
To translate the plans into a full-scale
drawing, start by transferring any
reference lines or reference edges outlined
in the plans. You can then work from those
lines to transfer all the measurements
from the plans to the full-scale pattern.
X 2
X 1
X 3
Y 1 Y 2
Y 3
Reference edges or lines
51

1/2” x 1/2” Grid
(13 mm) Additional grid lines can be added
to help estimate location of points
The grid patterns are a made up of a series of reference lines that cross each other. The scale of the grid will
be on the drawing. To translate these plans into full scale patterns you must first create a full-scale grid to
use as a reference. Using this grid, you can then plot the location of all the points that intersect the grid and
finally connect all those points to create the pattern.
Using the Patterns to Cut Out
the Sheet Metal Parts
Using saws and cold chisels to cut away unwanted pieces from a sheet metal part was the only technology
available to the medieval smith. It is a lot more labor intensive than using a metal cutting bandsaw for long
straight cuts, however chisels can be used to work in much smaller spaces. In many cases they are still the
only technology available to the average smith.
The simplest method of transferring the pattern to a
workpiece is to use spray adhesive to glue a photocopy
of the pattern to the stock to be cut out.
The first step in the process is to use a center punch to
mark the endpoints of all reference lines and any hole
locations on the pattern.
52

Next, place the pattern piece on an anvil and begin cutting
the outline of the pattern piece into the surface of the metal.
A narrow cold chisel is used to lightly score a groove along
the edge of the pattern piece.
The chisel is driven directly into the face of the sheet metal.
Move the chisel over slightly and drive the chisel into the
plate at that location. Continue this process until the entire
line has a groove that is approximately half the thickness of
the metal. This sharp groove creates a stress point that will
greatly weaken the metal and force it to break along that line.
The waste piece of metal can now be broken away from the
pattern piece. Pattern pieces with straight lines can be taken
directly to the vise, and the waste piece flexed back and forth
until it breaks away. It is usually easier to start on one side of
the line and work the crack over to the other side.
For curved lines, the waste piece may need to be cut into
sections first. A series of pieces with slightly curved lines will
be easier to flex than a single piece that follows a longer curved
line. A hacksaw is used to saw the waste into manageable
pieces.
53

The pipe lock is a fine example of a blacksmith made lock. The design is uncomplicated. The parts are easily
forged, and it works even if it is crudely made. Unfortunately, there is no way of knowing when this lock was
first made or how that smith came up with the idea, but this is definitely one of the simplest lock mechanisms
you will ever find.
1/8”
(3 mm)
The body of the lock is made
from a standard 3/4” (19 mm)
I.D. schedule 40 black pipe.
1-1/16”
(27 mm)
Use the forging gauge to establish
the length of the body.
Total length
Use the upper edge of the forging
gauge to transfer the locations of
the opening for the shackle and
the hinge flaps.
74

A 1/2” (13 mm) wide opening is needed to accept the shackle. To determine the actual length of the saw cut,
place the circular cutout on the forging gauge on the centerline of the lock body. Scribe the location of the
outside edges of the gauge.
The same gauge is used to outline the saw cut for the hinge flaps.
Hinge flaps sawn out
Hinge flaps straightened out and shaped
Rough out the opening for the shackle with a
hacksaw and narrow chisel.
Rough out the hinge area by drilling a 1/4”(6 mm)
hole on the top centerline and making a saw cut that
connects the end of the lock body to the drill hole.
75

Use a 1/2”(13mm) square bar to size the opening.
Drill the hole for the pivot pin of the shackle.
1/2”
(13 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
The shackle is made from a length of 1/2” (13 mm) square bar. For the ease of handling, it should be at least
12” (305 mm) long.
The hinge section is forged first. Place the bar on the
anvil so that one side of the bar is sitting on the anvil.
Next rotate the bar 45-degrees so that one corner
of the bar is resting on the anvil face. Align the top
corner of the bar so that it is directly above the corner
sitting on the anvil. All of the forging for the shackle
will be done with the bar oriented this way. This is
done solely for decorative reasons, and this simple
change adds a great deal of interest to an otherwise
plain looking lock.
Create an offset at 3/4” (19 mm) from the end of the
bar and forge the end section down to 1/4” x 1/2”
(6 mm x 13 mm) and 1-1/2” (38 mm) long.
Forge the barrel of the hinge by rolling the end into
a tight curl. The inside needs to accept a 1/4” (6 mm)
pin.
76

Minimum
1”
(25 mm)
9”
(229 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
The open end of the shackle is made next. Measure down 9” (229 mm) from the center of the hinge barrel and
forge a flat section in the shackle, as shown.
Place the bending fork in the vise. Heat
a section of the shackle and place it in
the fork. Pull the cool end of the bar
around to create a slight bend. Move the
shackle further into the fork and try to
put the same curvature in that section.
Repeat the process until the heat is lost.
Start by bending a smooth curve that
is oversized, and then continue the
process until the shackle has a smooth
horseshoe shape and conforms to the
forging gauge.
Bend the shackle until the shape is a
smooth curve, and the pivot point of
the hinge is aligned at (A) and the sides
of the flat section of the shackle are in
the middle and parallel to the sides of
the opening in the gauge at (B). The
shackle is cut from the bar at (C).
77

The bolt head is used as a drift that will shape the
key. Use two nuts to protect the threads of the bolt
while it is clamped in the vise. Place the bolt upright
in the vise. Heat the drilled end of the key and drive
it over the head of the bolt.
Beveled edges help
to shape the opening
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
The other end of the key can
now be shaped into a bow.
Forge a flat section 1-1/2” (38
mm) long and 5/8” (16 mm)
wide and 1/8” (3 mm) thick.
5/8”
(16 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
A narrow slot will be punched into the flat face, and
then shaped into a ring to form the bow of the key.
Heat the bar, and lay out the location of the slot by
driving a slot punch lightly into the surface. Examine
the position of the punch mark. If it is not exactly in
the middle of the bar, make a new mark to try to
center the slot. The mark for the hole should be in
the middle of the bar with an equal amount of metal
on all sides. When the mark is in the correct location,
cut the slot into the bar. Carefully pry open the slot
with a narrow round punch. Clean up any ragged
edges with a file, and forge to shape
80

[2] Classic Pipe Lock
Shackle
Hinge flaps
Hinge pin
Shackle opening
Lock body
Key
Locking pin
81

Lock Body Pattern
19.3 deg.
7-5/8” radius
194 mm
Bevel on top of
pattern
3”
(75 mm)
2-1/2”
(63 mm)
Bevel on underside
Lock body
radius gauge
R = 7/16”
(11 mm)
R = 9/32”
(7 mm)
1-7/8”
(48 mm)
82
This style of pipe lock uses a key that threads onto a bolt inside the lock. The bolt is connected to a springloaded
locking pin that secures the free end of the shackle. Turning the key will pull back the locking pin to
release the shackle. Since the key is threaded to the locking pin inside the lock, the key is quite often left in
the lock while the lock is open.

The pipe lock has a tapered tube that contains the
locking mechanism. Use the pattern provided to cut
out the sheet metal blank for the lock body.
File the long edges of the lock body until they are as
straight as possible.
The edges also need to be beveled so
they can overlap each other once the
lock body is bent into shape.
The hatchet stake is used to form both of
the outside edges of the tube. Remember
that the tube is tapered. The bend lines
will need to follow a tapering pattern
towards the small end of the tube.
Bend along radial lines
83

File away the taper from the outside
edge of the lock body to create a rim
that is parallel to the centerline. File
the inside edge of the collar until it
can be driven onto the end of the lock
body. Cut the collar from the bar and
file the outside shape.
1/2”
(13 mm)
The hinge collar is forged from 1/2”
(13 mm) square bar. Punch a slot that
is 1/2” (13 mm) long and drift the
hole until it is slightly smaller than
the small end of the pipe.
1/2”
(13 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
Measure approximately 3/4” (19 mm) from the top of the collar and cut the collar from the bar. The hinge
slot is cut into the bar by first drilling a 1/4" (6 mm) hole near the top of the collar. The sides are cut out using
a hacksaw.
86

The inside of the collar must be filed at an angle to
match the taper of the lock body. Continue shaping
the collar until it can be driven onto the end of the
pipe.
The collar is completed by drilling the hole for the
hinge pin.
Drive the two collars onto the pipe lock body.
Feed a heavy steel wire through the lock body to tie
the collars in place. Wire the collars in three places.
The wires are needed even if the parts appear to
be secure. The heat from the fire can loosen parts
during brazing.
Add a thin copper wire to the top of the collar and
place the lock body upright in the fire (see p. 38).
The same process is used to braze the small collar.
87

Cross peen the end of the shackle to widen it slightly.
This will provide the material needed to shape the
shackle around the base of the collar.
File the hinge section of the shackle until it conforms
to the shape of the collar.
Mark the location of the hinge pin on the shackle.
Drill the hole in the shackle, but do not rivet the
shackle in place.
With the shackle in position, scribe the approximate
centerline of the pipe lock body on the free end of
the shackle.
Cut a 1/4” (6 mm) square notch across the inside
edge of the shackle.
90

The shackle is locked in position with
a spring-loaded pin that fits into the
open end of the shackle.
The pin is made from a 3/8” (10 mm)
round bar.
3/8”
(10 mm)
File a 1/4" (6 mm) square tenon on the
end of the bar that is 1-1/4” (32 mm)
long.
3/8”
(10 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
1-1/4”
(32 mm)
File the 1/4" (6 mm) square tenon into
an octagonal tenon. File each corner
of the bar evenly until all 8 facets are
parallel to the bar and the face of each
facet is exactly the same width.
Complete the tenon by filing the
corners of the octagon into a 1/4" (6
mm) rod.
1/4”
(6 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
91

Cut the small washer from the bar.
Place the washer on a 1/4" (6 mm) stove bolt that will
serve as a handle when testing the fit of the washer
inside the lock.
This washer will need to have a beveled edge that
matches the side of the lock body.
Carefully file the circumference of the washer until
the centerline of the washer is 1-7/8” (48 mm) from
the large end of the lock body.
1-7/8”
(48 mm)
When the washer is the correct size it can be brazed
to the lock body.
The bolt that was used as a handle can be transformed
into a clamp for the washer by filing a square tapered
head that will lock into the square hole of the washer.
File the flat faces in line with the screwdriver slot
so that it can be used to determine the correct
orientation inside the lock.
The sides of the square hole in the washer should be
parallel to the sides of the hinge flaps of the small
collar on the lock body.
Place a short length of copper wire inside the
lock body. The small end of the lock body should
be placed in the cold side of the fire to prevent
overheating.
94

Check the fit of the locking pin inside the lock. It
should still slide freely in the lock.
5/16”
(8 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
Slide the locking pin into the lock body until the end of the locking pin is flush with the small end of the lock
body.
Scribe the location of the hasp opening onto the locking pin.
Align the washer to this mark and scribe the outside edge of the washer onto the locking pin.
Cut out a 1/8” x 5/16” (3 mm x 8 mm) square tenon on the end of the pin.
Undercut the outside edges of the tenon.
Place the washer onto the locking pin.
Use a small fuller to lock the washer into position.
95

1-1/2”
(38 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
Hatchet stake
The arm of the shackle must be bent to 90-degrees so
that it can be inserted into the tail piece of the lock.
This bend should be made at approximately 1-1/2”
(38 mm) above the centerline of the spring holder. A
hatchet stake or a piece of flat bar held in a vise can
be used to support the work.
Set the spring assembly on top of the lock body.
Trim the end of the spring holder so that the tip is
1/8” (3 mm) behind the opening for the key at the
base of the lock body.
5”
(127 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
3/64”
(1.5 mm)
3/16”
(5 mm)
110
The spring is forged from a 5” (125 mm) length of carbon steel wire that is 1/8” (3 mm) in diameter. Forge
and file the spring blank to a 3/64” x 3/16” (1.5 mm x 5 mm) flat bar.

Heat the center of the spring and bend it in
half. Place the spring on the spring holder
to check the fit. Heat and adjust the spring
tip until it fits the spring holder without any
gaps between the spring and the tip of the
holder.
3/16” x 3/16”
(5 mm x 5 mm)
File the base of the spring holder to a square
section that is slightly smaller than the hole
in the end panel of the lock.
The shoulders on the top and bottom of the
spring holder are filed back until they are
sitting 1/16” (2 mm) in front of the shackle.
The transition between the shoulders of
the spring holder and the blade should be
just deep enough to fit the thickness of the
spring.
1/16”
(2 mm)
The spring can now be trimmed to fit the
holder. Start by cutting the ends of the
spring until they just clear the shoulders of
the spring holder.
Test the spring by placing it on the holder
and inserting the shackle into the lock. If
the spring does not open inside the lock,
continue trimming the ends until they can
clear the end panel of the lock body.
111

Place the spring back on the spring holder and slide
the key over the spring until it stops. Ideally, this
should happen when the key is halfway up the
spring holder. Also, at this point the spring should
be flat against the spring holder. If the key cannot
move far enough to fully compress the spring,
additional material will need to be removed from
the opening in the key.
If the spring offers too much resistance, it must be
thinned down by filing equal amounts from each
face. Make a custom wedge block that supports the
spring while filing. Continue filing and testing until
the desired tension is reached.
A makeshift holder will need to be made to handle
the spring assembly during brazing. This holder will
also prevent the heat from traveling up the spring
holder.
Drill a hole into a heavy bar. The holes must be sized
so that the bar can be driven firmly in place without
damaging the spring or the spring holder.
The tip of the spring holder needs to be pointing
downward in the fire during brazing. It may be
necessary to bend the arm of the shackle out of the
way during this process. This bend should be placed
in a location that can be easily reached without
affecting the spring holder.
112

To complete the shackle, clean up the spring
assembly, adjust the shackle arm so that it is parallel
to the spring holder, and do a final test of the key
inside the lock.
The end block that secures the tail of the shackle is
the last piece of the lock to be made. It is forged from
a length of 1/2” (13 mm) square bar.
A 3/8” (10 mm) hole is punched at one end.
Insert the shackle into the body of the lock, and slide the key partway into the lock. This will hold the shackle
in the correct position in the lock. Slide the end block over the tail of the shackle, and cut the end block level
with the bottom edge of the body of the lock. File the cut smooth and rivet in place.
113

[4] Classic Medieval
Spring Padlock
Shackle & base plate
Key
Shackle opening
Lock body
Spring assembly
114

1/2” Grid
(13 mm)
115

This is another common form of spring padlock. Unlike most spring locks with the distinctive straight bar
shackle arm, this lock design resembles a typical padlock with a hinged shackle. The free end of the shackle
is locked inside the lock body by the spring assembly. The spring assembly is not part of the shackle. It is a
separate unit that must be removed from the lock to release the shackle.
1-1/16”
(27 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
4”
(101 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
116
The lock body is made from a short length of standard 3/4" (19 mm) I.D. black pipe.
SAFETY WARNING: Do not use galvanized pipe. Burning galvanized metal produces toxic fumes.
Forge a taper that is 4” (101 mm) long at the end of a longer piece of pipe. The small diameter of the taper
should be approximately 3/4” (19 mm) O.D.

Begin by forging a very steep taper at the end of the
pipe. Try to keep the heat to the very end of the pipe
as much as possible. This will prevent the pipe from
distorting as it is being forged. Use a light hammer
and strike the end of the pipe at a 45-degree angle.
Work systematically around the circumference of the
pipe until the inside diameter reaches approximately
1/2” (13 mm). Do not try to forge too much at one
time. Take several passes around the pipe to create a
very smooth opening.
This forged chamfer at the end of the pipe is used to
reinforce the pipe walls while forging the main taper
of the lock body.
1-1/16”
(27 mm)
Centerline of pipe
4”
(101 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
Return the pipe to the fire and heat up a 3” (75 mm) length at the end of the pipe.
Move the pipe to the face of the anvil and lightly hammer the side of the pipe near the end. Once again
systematically work around the circumference of the pipe until that section of pipe blends in with the short
taper at the end. This will produce a slightly longer taper.
Continue this process, working up the pipe until it has a smooth taper from 1” (25 mm) OD to 3/4” (19 mm)
OD.
During forging, make sure that the centerline of the small opening stays lined up with the centerline to the
unforged portion of the pipe.
117

This padlock has a very elaborate ring for the
shackle. The base plate of this ring extends to the
front of the lock where it is used to reinforce the
opening for the shackle.
This ring is assembled from three separate pieces
that are brazed together. The ring and the center bar
detail are forged from one piece and the decorative
end plates are added to it.
1/2”
(13 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
2”
(51 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
120
The ring is shaped from a 1/2" x 1” (13 mm x 25 mm) bar. A 3/4" (19 mm) long slot is punched on the centerline
of the bar. The outside of the slot must be at least 2" (51 mm) from the end of the bar.
The slot is drifted to a 1/2" (13 mm) round.

3”
(76 mm)
With the drift in place, hammer the bar over the
edge of the anvil until a straight edge is created on
the bottom of the ring detail.
Continue drifting and realigning the hole until the
inside diameter is 3/4" (19 mm).
The remainder of the base in front of the ring is
forged to a 1/2” (13 mm) square bar.
File the bottom of the base flat and use a hacksaw to
cut out the bottom section of the ring.
3/16”
(5 mm)
2”
(51 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
Cut away the base of the shackle ring as shown.
121

1/8” (3 mm) spacer
keeps springs aligned
The edge of the plug must be tapered to fit the lock
body.
Remove the plug from the bolt. Assemble the springs
in the plug with the filed edges facing each other.
Both springs should be parallel with each other and
with each spring facing up. Place a 1/8” (3 mm) spacer
between the springs. Braze the springs to the plug.
1/2”
(13 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
3-1/2”
(89 mm)
130
The key is used to compress the springs until they clear the shackle. It is forged from a length of 1/2" (13 mm)
square bar.

The notches on the key should be sized so that the
springs are fully compressed when the key is 3/4 of
the way up the spring holder. This will allow the key
to push the springs past the shackle as well as push
the spring assembly partway outside the lock.
Insert the spring assembly into the lock and test the
key.
1/2”
(13 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
The outside of the lock body has three ornamental details in the form of medieval serpents. These details are
optional but they are simple to make and add a great deal to the overall look of the lock.
The serpents are forged from a length of 1/2" (13 mm) square bar.
131

Cover Plate
5/16”
(8 mm)
7/16”
(11 mm)
1/16”
(2 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
5/8”
(16 mm)
3-1/4”
(83 mm)
Key Blank
3/4”
(19 mm)
2-1/2”
(64 mm)
R = 3/32”
(2.5 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
138

Mainspring Bending Jig
1/8”
(3 mm)
R = 1/4”
(6 mm)
2-5/16”
(58 mm)
2”
(51 mm)
5/8”
(16 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
5/8”
(16 mm)
7/8”
(22 mm) 3/16”
(5 mm)
15/16”
(24 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
2-7/8”
(73 mm)
5”
(125 mm)
Mainspring Grid Pattern
1/4” Grid
(6 mm)
139

3/16” dia.
(5 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
2-1/2”
(63 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
148
The key is made from a 2-1/2” (63 mm) piece of 1/4” x 3/4” (6 mm x 19 mm) flat bar. Drill a 3/16” (5 mm) hole
where the bow of the key transitions to the stem. Use a series of hacksaw cuts to outline the shape.
The bow of the key is the 3/4” (19 mm) square section at the end of the bar. Heat the bow and rotate it
45-degrees until it lines up with the centerline of the key.
Drill a 1/2" (13 mm) hole in the center of the square section for the bow. Shape the profile of the bow with a
file.
Finish the key by filing the stem of the key, as well as the pivot pin in front of the key bit to a round cross
section that is 1/4” (6 mm).

[6] Classic Crab Lock
Backplate
Latches
Key
Lever
Cover plates
Mainspring
149

Backplate 1
Bend allowance
1/16”
(1.6 mm)
3-1/2”
(88 mm)
1-1/8”
(29 mm)
3-1/4”
(81 mm)
4-13/16”
(121 mm)
R = 1-7/8”
(47 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
7-1/4”
(184 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
5/8”
(16 mm)
1/4” x 1/4” Grid
(6 mm x 6 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
150

Backplate 2
3-7/8”
(98 mm)
2-1/2”
(63 mm)
A
4-7/8”
(124 mm)
A = 3/16” dia.
(5 mm)
A
3/4”
(19 mm)
3/8” dia.
(10 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
5/8”
(16 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
151

Lay the latches in position on the backplate.
Use dividers to make sure that the inside
face of each leg is exactly 3/8” (10 mm)
from the centerline on the backplate. The
total distance between the legs must be 3/4”
(19 mm) for the lever that opens the jaws to
work properly.
Distance = 3/8”
(10 mm)
Make any adjustments needed to have the
hinge barrels on the legs match up as closely
as possible to the pattern on the backplate.
The length from the top of the jaws to the
center of the hinge is 3-5/8” (92 mm). The
legs with a single wrap should be slightly
longer than necessary. Fine tune the length
by continuing to roll the hinge barrel until
the legs are the correct length.
Extra curl on hinge
barrel brings it into line
If the hinge barrels on the legs do not match
the pattern exactly, mark the new location
for the pivot pins on the backplate.
1/4”
(6 mm)
156
Cut out the pattern for the cover plate.
Scribe a line on the backplate that is 1/4” (6 mm) below the top edge of the backplate.
Extend the reference lines for the pivot pins on the backplate so they will extend beyond the outline of the
cover plate.
Set the cover plate on the backplate. Line up the bend line on the cover plate with the 1/4” (6 mm) mark at
the top of the cover plate. Both centerlines should be lined up.
Use a straight edge to transfer the scribe lines for the pivot pins from the backplate to the cover plate.
If the location does not match perfectly, use painter’s tape to cover the original lines on the pattern. Mark the
new locations.

Drill a 3/16” (5 mm) hole at one of the pivot pin locations on the backplate and cover plate.
Assemble the two plates by inserting a 3/16” (5 mm) pin through the hole. Align the other side of the cover
plate on the backplate and clamp the two together.
Drill the other pivot hole. Remove the cover plate and drill only the cover plate holes to 1/4” (6 mm).
1”
(25 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
3/16”
(5 mm)
The pivot pins for the claws are 1/4” (6 mm) round bars that are at least 1” (25 mm) long.
File a 3/16” (5 mm) round tenon on one end of each bar that is 1/4” (6 mm) long.
157

Place the bolt on the backplate in a locked position. Scribe the location of the end of the bolt onto the backplate.
Place the rear bolt guide over the bolt just in front of the tail of the bolt. Scribe that location onto the backplate.
Remove the bolt and position the spring so that the contact point for the spring is level, or slightly above the
reference line for the top of the bolt. The spring should be sitting slightly forward of the reference line for
the end of the bolt when it is in the locked position. This will put the spring under tension when the bolt is
installed.
Clamp the spring in place and scribe the location of the square tenon onto the backplate. Cut the slot for the
tenon into the backplate.
Place the spring in position on the backplate. Cut the end of the spring to length and forge the end into a
decorative scroll. Reinstall the spring in the backplate and make any final adjustments that may be necessary.
Heat treat the spring and temper to a full blue. Reheat the end block with a torch to anneal the tenons.
Rivet the spring to the backplate. Rivet the cover plate to the top of the spring.
178
Clamp the bolt to the backplate. Prepare the bolt by first clamping it to a square block or a short piece of angle
iron. The wider footprint of the block will make it easier to position and clamp the bolt to the backplate.
Install the clamping block in the middle of the bolt so that it will not be in the way of the front or rear bolt
guides. Use a light hammer to make fine adjustments to the position of the bolt along the top reference line.
Line up the rear bolt guide to the reference line made earlier and rivet it in place.
Hold the front bolt guide in place by clamping one side of the guide. Undo the clamp holding the bolt and
test the operation of the bolt in the lock. If it works smoothly, rivet the open side of the front bolt guide. Then
remove the clamp and rivet the other side.

[8] Classic Medieval
Spring Lock
Key
Backplate
Bolts
Mainspring
Levers
Bolt guides
Cover plate
179

The medieval spring lock is similar in design and
function to the cupboard lock. However, for this
lock, the mechanism is hidden inside a heavy door
panel. As a result, the mechanism is plain, and the
cover plate features the decorative elements of the
lock. This lock features a double bolt design and a
more complicated ward system.
Cut out the cover plate and transfer all the reference
lines from the pattern to the cover plate.
The keyhole and the square hole for the bolts on the
end panel can be cut out.
Fuller and bend the end panel to 90-degrees.
1/4”
(6 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
182
Cut out the bolts’ blanks from 1/4" x 3/4” (6 mm x 19 mm) flat bar. The tail of each bolt must be bent to
90-degrees. Start the bend by placing each bolt upright in a vise and hammering the tail at a slight angle. This
can be done cold. The tail for the lower bolt must be bent so that it is pointing downward in the lock. The tail
for the upper bolt must be bent so that it will be facing upwards.

1/4”
(6 mm)
Clamp the two bolts together. Heat the ends of both bolts. Place the bolt assembly in the vise and hammer
the tails into a sharp bend.
Place both bolts on the cover plate in a locked position. The reference line on the cover plate pattern is the
location of the centerline of the dogs. Mark that line on each bolt.
3/8”
(10 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
The bolt dogs are made from 3/8” (10 mm) square bar. For each dog, forge a short length of the square bar
down to a 1/4“ (6 mm) thickness. This will result in a flat bar that is approximately 1/4" x 1/2” (6 mm x 13
mm).
The dog for the lower bolt is made by cutting a 1/4” (6 mm) square tenon in the middle of the 1/2” (13 mm)
wide section of the bar. Scribe the length of the dog on the bar. Cut the dog slightly longer than the length
given on the pattern.
183

3/4”
(19 mm)
Slide the two levers onto the pin.
Adjust the shape of the levers until they sit at right angles to the pin. The gap between the levers should be
parallel. The ends of the levers are not the correct dimensions or length. Extra material has been added to
the pattern to allow for any adjustments that may be needed when the bolts are installed in the lock. File the
width of the arms of each lever to 3/8” (10 mm). The lower edge of the paddle on the arm of the lever for the
upper dog should be resting on the cover plate. File the bottom edge of the paddle to adjust the height of the
upper lever. The gap between the two levers should be no more than 1/16” (2 mm). The total height of both
levers when installed on the pin should be approximately 3/4" (19 mm).
Place the bolts in a fully locked position on the cover plate. The position of the pivot pin for the levers will be
located directly below the ends of the bolts when they are in this position. Mark a vertical line onto the cover
plate at this location. Move the bolts to a fully unlocked position. Adjust the position of the upper lever until
the center of the paddle is in line with the middle of the tail of the upper bolt. Swing the hinge barrel over to
the reference line for the hinge pin. Mark the location of the centerline of the hinge barrel onto the backplate.
Drill the cover plate and rivet the pivot pin in place.
Reposition the bolts on the cover plate in a fully locked position and set the upper lever against the upper bolt.
Trim the length of the lever until it is level with the upper edge of the tail on the bolt. Trim the inside edge of
the paddle of the upper lever until it is above the centerline between the two bolts.
Install the lever for the lower bolt. Trim the length of the lever until it is below the centerline between the two
bolts. Scribe the location of the top of the hinge barrel across the centerline for the hinge pin.
Remove the bolts and levers and place the
mainspring on the pattern. Position the tip of the
spring above the scribe line for the top of the hinge
barrel and in front the scribe line that marks the
centerline for the hinge pin.
Scribe the location of the tenons on the mounting
block for the spring onto the cover plate. Drill out
the center of the slot. Use chisels and files to shape
the slot until it conforms to the tenon on the spring.
190

Install the spring into the cover plate and clamp in position. Install the levers and test the spring tension.
The spring should be under tension when the levers reach the reference line for the ends of the bolts when
they are fully locked. It should also apply an even tension on the levers as they are rotated from the locked
to unlocked positions. The curvature of the spring can be adjusted until the correct spring tension is reached.
When the correct spring tension is reached, the mainspring can be riveted to the cover plate.
Point of contact for the levers should
be a smooth curve
The bolts can now be installed in the lock. Rotate the levers until the ends are below the bolt locations.
Place the bolts on the backplate in a fully unlocked position. Place the center of the front bolt guide over the
beveled edge of the bolts.
Scribe and cut the slots for the front bolt guide. Contour the edges of the bolt tails to conform to the levers.
Return the levers to their working position. Install the bolts and clamp both bolt guides to the cover plate.
Test the operation of the bolts. They should slide easily from the locked to the unlocked position regardless
of whether they are moved together or independently. Make any adjustments that may be necessary.
Clamp the bolts to the cover plate. Remove the clamps from the bolt guides and rivet the guides in place.
The end of the pivot pin is lightly riveted. This will flare the end to prevent the levers from working their
way off the pin.
191

[9] Door Lock
Key
Backplate
Bolt
Front bolt guide
Rear bolt guide
Mainspring
Cover plate
202

Backplate
Vertical reference line
Bolt reference line
5-1/4”
(133 mm)
3”
(75 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
5”
(125 mm)
2-3/4”
(70 mm)
Horizontal reference line
1-3/8”
(35 mm)
6-1/2”
(165 mm)
Ward Box
2-5/8”
(67 mm)
2-3/8”
(61 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
2-1/2”
(64 mm)
2”
(51 mm)
1-7/8”
(48 mm)
1-1/4”
(32 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
203

Place the ward box on the backplate and do a
final test of the key from both sides of the lock.
Make any adjustments that may be necessary.
The final adjustment to the bolt can now be
made that will allow the key to move the bolt
within the lock.
Remove the ward box from the backplate.
Lay two support blocks on a flat surface that
will raise the backplate high enough off the
surface to allow the pivot pin for the key to
extend below the backplate. Install the bolt in
the front bolt guide.
Set the rear bolt guide over the bolt, but do
not rivet it in place. Align the center tooth
of the bolt directly over the centerline of the
keyhole. Scribe the location of the center
notch found on the top of the bolt, onto the
backplate.
Hold the bolt in this position. Insert the key
in the backplate and turn it clockwise until it
hits the bottom corner of the bolt. Remove the
bolt, and file that corner slightly. Reinstall the
bolt as above and test the key again.
Repeat this process until the key can clear the
bottom edge of the bolt and reach the center
tooth.
212

Next, turn the key counterclockwise and follow the same process for the other side of the bolt. Only remove
what is needed for the key to move past the corner of the notch.
Critical contact points
when the bolt is being unlocked
Critical contact points
when the bolt is being locked
It is important to remember that both sides of each notch as well as the center tooth must be precisely fitted
to the key for the lock to work properly. When material is removed from the bolt to allow the key to pass,
it is being removed from the side of the bolt that the key must press against to return the bolt to that exact
position in the lock. If too much material is removed, the key will not be able to move the bolt far enough
because it will now slip out of the bolt too soon when returning the bolt to that position. This will leave the
bolt in the wrong location in the lock.
The same process is used to fine tune the center
tooth of the bolt. This time, align the scribe lines for
the spring with the right-hand notch.
Turn the key clockwise until it reaches the bottom
edge of the center tooth. File that corner until the
key passes through. Only remove what is necessary
to allow the key to pass that corner.
Next, align the left notch with the scribe line. This
time turn the key counterclockwise until it touches
the center tooth, and file away that corner until the
key passes through.
213

[11] Classic Rim Lock
Side panel
Key
Backplate
Latch spring
Latch bolt cam
Latch bolt
Bolt
Rear bolt & latch
guide
Night latch
Ward box
Tumbler
Cover plate
218

Backplate and Side Plates
Rear bolt guide
reference line
5/8” x 3/4”
(16 mm x 19 mm)
Side plate
Bolt reference line
1/4”
(6 mm)
5/8” x 1”
(16 mm x 25 mm)
1/2” x 1/2”
(13 mm x 13 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
3-5/8”
(92 mm)
5”
(127 mm)
2”
(51 mm)
Rivet blocks
Side plate
cross section
3/16”
(5 mm)
9/16”
(14 mm)
2”
(51 mm)
3”
(76 mm)
219

Cover Plate & Ward Box
4-3/4”
(121 mm)
4”
(101 mm)
3/8” dia.
(10 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
3-1/2”
(89 mm)
3-3/4”
(95 mm)
1-5/8”
(41 mm)
2-11/16”
(68 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
2-1/2”
(64 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
1-1/8”
(29 mm)
2-9/16”
(65 mm)
1/2” dia.
(13 mm)
1-7/2”
(64 mm)
5/8”
(16 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
23/32”
(18 mm)
1-5/32”
(29 mm)
1-13/32”
(35.5 mm)
1-15/16”
(49 mm)
3-1/4”
(83 mm)
3-1/8”
(79 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
7/8”
(22 mm)
R = 2-1/4”
(57 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
1-3/16”
(30 mm)
1-17/32”
(38.5 mm)
1-15/16”
(49 mm)
2-5/16”
(59 mm)
222

Bolt Guides, Ring Ward,
Night Latch, Latch Spring & Lever,
Latch Bolt Cam & Bolt Tumbler
5/8” 3/4”
(16 mm) (19 mm)
2-3/16”
(56 mm)
3/16”
(5 mm)
1-3/8”
(35 mm)
7/8”
(22 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
13/16”
(20 mm)
5/32”
(4 mm)
1/8”
(3 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
3/8”
(10 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
1-7/8”
(48 mm)
1-5/16”
(33 mm)
1/4” Grid
(6 mm)
1/4” Grid
(6 mm)
223

1/4”
(6 mm)
3/16”
(5 mm)
3/16”
(5 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
The final assembly of the lock mechanism will require two pins that need to be riveted to the cover plate.
The pins are made from 1/4” (6 mm) round bar. File a 3/16” (5 mm) tenon on the end of a 1/4” (6 mm) round
bar. Cut the pin from the bar at approximately 1/2” (13 mm) from the shoulder of the tenon.
The deadbolt and the latch bolt are fabricated by joining together the two pieces that make up each bolt. On
the original lock the parts would have been forge welded together. Since forge welding is beyond the scope
of this book, we will be brazing these parts together.
Use the pattern to cut the main shape of the deadbolt and latch bolt from 1/8” (3 mm) plate. The center
section in the notch of the deadbolt is bent towards the back of the bolt. The tail of the latch bolt is bent
to a 90-degree angle. The end of each bolt is thicker than the main body of the bolt. This extra thickness is
obtained by adding an extra block to the end of the bolt.
The bolt block for the latch bolt is cut from a 1-3/4” (44 mm) length of 5/8” (16 mm) square bar. The bolt block
for the deadbolt is cut from a 1-3/4” (44 mm) length of 1/2" x 1” (13 mm x 25 mm) flat bar.
Assemble the two parts of each bolt with small rivets
to keep the end block of the bolt in position while in
the fire.
Lay the copper wire against the inside corner of the
bolt and slowly heat until the copper flows into the
joint.
228

Transfer the pattern for the rear deadbolt guide to
a piece of 1/8” (3 mm) flat stock. Fit the tenons of
the bolt guide to the slots in the cover plate. Do not
rivet the bolt guide in place.
File top edge of bolt guide until latch bolt is
parallel to the top edge of cover plate
The latch bolt does not have its own dedicated rear bolt guide. The long horizontal arm of the latch bolt is
guided by sliding along the top edge of the rear deadbolt guide. As a result, the top edge of the rear bolt
guide must be filed down so that the arm of the latch bolt sits parallel to the top edge of the cover plate.
The latch bolt and the deadbolt are held in place by two sheet metal brackets. Each bracket spans across the
top of both bolts. Cut out the pattern of the brackets from a strip of sheet metal. Bend the brackets to shape.
The base at the top of each bracket will need to fit into the narrow space between the upper side plate and the
latch bolt. Measure the distance from the edge of the latch bolt to the inside face of the side panel. Transfer
that measurement to the cover plate. The base plate of the bracket will need to be trimmed until the inside
edge of the leg of the bracket is above the reference line for the top edge of the bolt. Test the latch bolt in the
lock with the rear bolt guide and the cleat in place. Adjust the shape of the cleat until the latch bolt can move
freely. Use the rear bracket as a pattern to shape the front bracket. These brackets are attached to the cover
plate with threaded bolts. Drill a 1/8” (3 mm) hole in the center of each of the bases of the brackets. Transfer
the locations of the holes to the cover plate. Enlarge the holes in the brackets to 9/32” (7 mm). Drill the cover
plate with a 13/64” (5 mm) hole and tap it with a 1/4" NC (M6 x 1) thread.
229

[12] Classic Lever Lock
Cover plate
Latch bar & interior
lever handle
Key
Latch spring &
cover plate
Exterior lever
handle
Side panel
Bolt
Tumbler
Ward box
252

Lock Backplate
4-5/8”
(117 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
7/8”
(22 mm)
3-1/2”
(89 mm)
3/16”
(5 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
4”
(101 mm)
3”
(76 mm)
1-3/4”
(44 mm)
9/16”
(14 mm)
2-1/2”
(64 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
3-3/4”
(95 mm)
4-3/4”
(121 mm)
3”
(76 mm)
4-1/4”
(108 mm)
5-3/4”
(146 mm)
Lock Bolt
1/4”
(6 mm)
11/16”
(17 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
3-3/8”
(86 mm)
1”
(25 mm)
4-1/2”
(114 mm)
5-3/4”
(146 mm)
253

Use the key to move the bolt
from the locked to the unlocked
position. The tumbler should fall
within the marks on the bolt.
Place the bolt in the unlocked
position. Mark the location of the
front panel on the bolt.
Remove the bolt. Cut the notches
for the tumbler along the top edge
of the bolt. Cut the end of the bolt
to length.
The spring for the tumbler rests
against a pin in the cover plate.
Clamp a bar to the cover plate so
that the end of the bar is resting on
the end of the spring. Tap the bar
with a hammer to move it forward
to apply pressure to the spring. Test
the tension with the key. When the
correct tension is reached, mark
the location of the end of the bar
on the cover plate. Remove the
clamp and the tumbler. Install a
pin at that location.
Do a final test with the key. If
everything is working smoothly
rivet the rear bolt guide in place.
262

The ward box for this lock is a simple
bent plate that has the keyhole needed
for the other side of the lock.
Cut and shape the outside of the pattern
piece as well as the keyhole.
The latch assembly is made up of two
parts. The main latch combines a lever
handle, the pivot pin for the latch
assembly, and the latch bar.
The second part of the latch is the lever
handle that is used to open the latch from
the opposite side of the door. This smaller
handle is bolted to the main latch.
263

Cut the handle from the bar.
Place a center punch mark on the
centerline of the flat section. Use a
pair of dividers to scribe a round
end to the handle. Cut and shape
the end.
3/8”
(10 mm)
The shaft that connects the two handles together is made from a 3/8” (10 mm) round bar. Forge a rough
taper on the end of the bar that approximates the taper of the punch used to drift the hole in the pivot pin. A
straight section for a round tenon is left at the very end of the bar.
File a round tenon that is 1/4” (6 mm) in diameter and at least 1/2” (13 mm) long. Carefully file the flat sides
of the taper until they match the taper on the pivot pin.
Thread the end of the tenon with a
1/4-20NC (M6X1) die.
A square nut is made by first
threading a hole through a 3/8” x
1/2” (10 mm x 13 mm) flat bar and
cutting it from the bar. File the cut
edges and create a bevel around
the top corners of the nut.
Install the shaft into the lock and
cut the round bar to a length
that will be long enough to pass
through the door and extend
beyond the outside face by 1-1/2”
(38 mm).
3/8”
(10 mm)
1/2”
(13 mm)
276

File a round tenon to the end of the
bar. Drill the hole to fit the tenon.
The inside face of the door handle
should be counter bored slightly.
Align the handle as closely as
possible to the main handle. Rivet
the handle in place. The handle is
secured further by brazing it to the
shaft.
277

[14] Basic Padlock
Shackle
Backplate
Side plate
Bolt guides
Tumbler
Cover plate
Bolt
Key
288

Basic Padlock Cover Plate & Backplate
15/16”
(24 mm)
R = 5/8”
(16 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
3-3/4”
(95 mm)
3-1/8”
(79 mm)
R = 2-1/2”
(64 mm)
2-3/8”
(61 mm)
R = 2-1/4”
(57 mm)
R = 2-5/16”
(59 mm)
1-11/16”
(42 mm)
Bolt reference line
1”
(25 mm)
3-3/8”
(86 mm)
3/4”
(19 mm)
7/8”
(22 mm)
2-11/16”
(68 mm)
1-1/2”
(38 mm)
289

Bend the tail of the tumbler so that it sits just above the bottom of the bolt.
Hacksaw a 1/4” (6 mm) long notch at the intersection of the spring and the tail of the tumbler and bend that
section of spring downward so that it will rest on the top edge of the bolt.
Bend the spring to shape and form a loop that will fit over a 16d common nail. Curve the remainder of the
spring upwards until it crosses slightly past the top of the side plate reference line on the backplate pattern.
Trim the end so that it fits inside the lock.
File a 1/8” (3 mm) round tenon on the end of the pin. Install the pin and slide the tumbler over the pin.
Slide the bolt against the front bolt
guide and scribe the location of the
tumbler locking the pin onto the bolt.
Slide the bolt against the rear bolt
guide and scribe the location of the
locking pin onto the bolt.
Use a round file to cut detents at each
scribe mark on the bolt. This will
create a working lock that is simple
to open where there would be no
damage to the lock should the key be
misplaced.
298

A small spacer pin needs to be added
to the end of the bolt. This pin rides
against the inside face of the cover
plate and keeps the bolt in position
in the rear bolt guide.
Place a small piece of sheet metal on
the top edge of the side plate so that
it covers the end of the bolt. This will
simulate the location of the cover
plate. Test the key in the lock and
carefully file the top of the pin until it
is sitting just below the inside face of
the cover plate.
3/8”
(10 mm)
7/16”
(11 mm)
1/4”
(6 mm)
The shackle rotates on a pin that is 3/8” (10 mm) round. A 1/4” (6 mm) tenon is filed at each end. This will
create a shoulder that will prevent the backplate and cover plate from pressing against the hinge barrel of the
shackle when the pin is riveted in place.
The free end of the shackle is forged slightly to create a flat surface on the inside face near the end. Set the
pivot pin for the shackle in the backplate. Cut and file the end of the shackle to shape so that it will fit into
the opening of the lock.
Remove the bolt. Scribe the location of the front bolt guide opening onto the shackle.
Cut the opening into the end of the shackle and test the bolt until it works smoothly.
299