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The Spy Who Loved Us_ The Vietnam War and Pham Xuan An's Dangerous Game ( PDFDrive )

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The Spy Who Loved Us 259

shoo them off, but everyone assumes his statements are scripted

for him by the government. “The Vietnamese have a ‘deep’

explanation for everything,” a friend explains. If nothing else,

they are great confabulators. They fill the city’s cafés and streetside

beer parlors with animated knots of people talking nonstop.

In an avid torrent of jokes, aphorisms, and gossip, they dissect

politics, analyze world affairs, share recipes, sing songs, recite

poems. The only time I hear this chatter stilled is when I stand

among the crowd peering into the face of the Virgin.

One night, strolling back to the Continental Hotel after

dinner, some friends and I find the usual crowd standing in

front of the Virgin. “I’m sure what they saw on her face was pigeon

droppings,” Thang says. Vietnam suffered prolonged

rains in the fall, lasting through Christmas Day. It has also been

unusually cold, leaving the country damp and somber. The mai

apricot blossoms, which normally appear around the Vietnamese

New Year and symbolize the country’s prosperity and

happiness, will not be blooming this year. “Maybe there is

something to it,” he admits. “First we had an earthquake in

Saigon. Then came the bird flu. Now we have workers on strike

and government officials being executed for corruption. These

are not easy times.”

In the summer of 2006, An was admitted twice to Military

Hospital 175. A friend who went to visit him reported that An

was joking about wanting to find a place in hell next to a good

storyteller so that he would have someone to talk to. On his second

visit, An’s friend found him with a tracheotomy tube stuck

in his windpipe. You wouldn’t stop talking, An, he said. So they

finally had to shut you up. An smiled with his eyebrows. On the

third visit, An’s friend found him in a coma. On Wednesday,

September 20, at 11:20 in the morning, on the twenty-eighth

day of the seventh month of the Year of the Dog, Pham Xuan

An, age seventy-nine, died. He was put in a coffin and carried

back to his house for three days of viewing. Visitors to the

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