180º , Final Major Project Workbook by Ellen Andersin at Marbella Design Academy

Final
/Major
/Project
2022
63_2
/Ellen Andersin/
Final Major Project

Index/
00. 08.
/Initial Ideas/ 4-11 /Fashion market/ 86-97
01. 09.
/Textile printing/ 12-19 /Brand creating/ 98-129
2022
02. 10.
/Traditional textiles/ 20-35 /Brand manual/ 130-157
03. 11.
/Traditional patterns/ 36-45 /Print creating/ 158-203
04. 12.
/Cultural appropriation/ 46-51 /Final print fabrics/ 204-229
05. 13.
/Print based fashion brands/ 52-59 /Sewing process/ 230-243
06. 14.
/Small fashion brands/ 60-71 /Final garments/ 244-253
07. 15.
/Brand concept/ 72-85 /Photoshoot & Material/ 254-313
/Sources/ 314-321
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/3

0.1 /Textile/Print/Fabric/
/Inspiration/
2022
Concept
This textile madness would focus on print
design, textile fabrics and coloured patterns.
It will link graphic design with fashion,
and tangible textures and materials.
The idea is primarily designing textiles, fabrics
and prints. Then, I would let my designs get
printed on fabrics of my choosing, or create
them myself using various techniques. I could
also combine the two, with both ready printed
but also implement details of hand made textiles
from weaving, knitting or other techniques.
After that the designed fabrics would be
implemented into fashion design, in a small
line of garments, and would be sown up by me.
Fashion and the making of clothes is not my
field, but I would be able to get help from my
mom, who is a seamstress and pattern-maker,
and a fashion student also offered her help.
/Research/
Print making and
designing, textile
crafting, competitors,
materials, concept
inspiration, technique,
fashion sketching,
fashion marketing, ...
When the garments are ready, a styled photo
shoot would occur, with photographs and possibly
also film/video. This would create material for a
small fashion line, with branding, including logo,
brand style and visual language, website and
additional elements for it to become an entirety.
I would like to design a digital and physical
look book for this compact collection,
with elements of textiles, prints and
photography, in the style of the brand.
A promotional video from the photo shoot and
other material could also be added to the whole.
/Techniques/
Print / pattern
design, fashion
design, editorial
design, photography,
styling, art directing,
branding, packaging,
UX/UI, ....
4/ Ellen Andersin Final Major Project
/5

0.2 /Texture/Design/Book/
/Inspiration/
2022
Concept
For my second concept, I want to create a physical
design book, with more than just flat paper
prints. It would be an abstract book with textures,
embroidery with each page as a new world or
then a cohesive ensemble in a similar style.
The book could tell a story, for instance
the different stages in life, and then be
put together in a more abstract way.
The idea with this book would be to explore
different materials, techniques, textures and
surfaces, graphically, both on paper and out of it.
After the book is finished, since it would have
elements of embroidery or other features, it would
not be able to be printed normally. I would have a
styled photo shoot, almost like still lives, or what
best fits the purpose. The point is that it would be
a creative photo shoot, like product photography.
I could also design additional elements for
the book, like sticker, posters, or create a
animated video based on the content etc.
/Research/
Book making, book
binding, creative
directing, different
materials and
techniques, ...
/Techniques/
Editorial design, print,
photography, styling,
video / animation
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/7

0.3 /Textile/Interior/Rugs/
/Inspiration/
Concept
Insane interiors would be about product design,
graphic design and textile design all together. I
have wanted to design and make rugs for several
years now, ever since I had a dream where I
was in a house with amazing design carpets.
2022
I presume its the fact that interior textiles
and furniture are a mix of clear product
design, beautiful colour combinations
and different tangible textures.
The idea would be to design for a space. A space
that desperately needs a new life, something
that brightens it up, to make it feel alive.
I could focus on rugs and carpets, but could also
make additional smaller designed products.
The fun thing about this idea is that I have a
frame where I potentially could make an actual
designed rug, with the punch needle technique.
The main thing would still be the graphic
design branding and marketing of these
products, also with a creatively styled photo
shoot and video, and additional designs.
/Research/
Textile and interior
design, different
styles, techniques and
materials, product
design, product
photography, marketing
and branding,
competitors, ...
/Techniques/
Textile design,
textile making,
product design,
styling, photography,
animation, branding, ...
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0.4 /Print/Pattern/Brand/
/Inspiration/
2022
Concept
I could combines the three previous ideas
into one. I could develop a brand, offering
unique and exclusive prints and patterns
for textiles, both for fashion and interior.
The other option is to create a brand, but
based on a specific pattern, like how Versace
based their brand on the Medusa head and
the Greek key pattern. Fendi, Gucci, Dolce &
Gabbana, Luis Vuitton, and Burberry along with
many other, have also formed patterns that
now work as a key element in their brands.
Farm Rio, a Brazilian clothing brand, has
also based their brand on patterns. They
don’t have one specific pattern like the
major fashion brands, but instead a lot of
different ones, always very bold and bright,
capturing the Brazilian life style and energy.
So, I could create a fashion brand, with a
small-scale collection consisting of clothes,
or other similar products, based on one or
more textile design, print or patterns.
/Research/
Textile and interior
design, different
styles, techniques and
materials, product
design, product
photography, marketing
and branding,
competitors, ...
/Techniques/
Textile design,
textile making,
product design,
styling, photography,
animation, branding, ...
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/11

01.
/textile printing
over the years/
textile
printing
2022
To comprehend the art of textile printing, I will dig
deep into the history of this technique. I need to
understand how this art form has changed, what has
been done and how the different techniques work.
Fabric printing has been around for thousands of
years, and our love for print, patterns and design
have always been there, and is not going anywhere.
It is a form of expression, tradition and culture at
its core, combined with craftsmanship and art.
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01. /textile printing/
textile
printing
Fabric or textile printing is a from of applying
colour to a fabric in patterns or designs. Compared
to textile dyeing, in printing one or more colours
are applied to the fabric in certain parts in a
pattern or design, whereas fabric dyeing means
that the whole fabric is covered in a colour.
2022
When printing a textile, the most common
methods are to do it with blocks, stencils,
engraved plates, rollers, screens or heat transfers.
All these techniques eventually developed from
hand painting, which of course is still used.
Textile printing has been going on for a long
time. A printing block, dating back to about
300 CE, was found in burial grounds in Upper
Egypt. However, there if evidense that prints
were already being made in the 4th century
BCE, in India. Ancient printed textiles have
also been found in Peru and Mexico.
The different techniques of fabric printing have a
huge impact on the final outcome, and different
print styles combined with materials definitely
require different printing techniques. Since I’m
planning on doing a fabric print, I need to get to
know the different processes and techniques
and how to pair them. It is key for the outcomes.
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01. /woodblock printing/
textile
printing
Woodblock printing or block printing is defined
by printing from engraved wooden blocks. The
wood itself varies, but is usually pressed and
glued together in many pieces to avoid warping.
Additional blocks or pieces of cheaper wood is also
used as a guarding backing to avoid this effect too.
2022
Woodblock printing is one of the earliest
techniques, initially used for printing pages, but
evolved later for images and designs. The earliest
traces of this print date back to 868 CE in China,
with the Diamant-Sutra woodblock printed book
from Dunhuang, however, it is so technically
advanced that scientist believe the technique
must have been developed long before.
The printing technique in China actually was
first used on textiles; printed on cloth, and
the earliest surviving examples date back to
220 CE. Later this printing technique was also
used for paper, with the invention of paper
happening around 105 CE, also in China.
The print paste is applied to the design surface
on the block and is then by hand printed
onto the fabric. The process is repeated with
different designs and colours until the design is
finished. This is a slow process made by hand,
and is not suitable for high volume production.
It is also difficult to get the design flawless.
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01. /silk screen printing/
textile
printing
Screen printing has its origin from stenciling, and
is a process of printing ink or dye though a mesh.
The art form first appeared in China around 1000
CE, and was later adapted by other Asian countries,
where the technique developed further.
2022
As late as in the 18th century, screen printing was
introduced to Europe from Asia, but didn’t become
popular until silk mesh was more available. Only in the
20th century the technique evolved from a simple,
handcraft process in Europe with wooden frames,
to a mass produced, mechanized, commercialized
process, used for printing posters, packaging and
fabrics. Today, the technique is using advanced fabrics
and inks together with computer technology.
The screen printing process is usually analogue, where you
press paint through a mesh, or printing screen. Only one
colour is printed at the time, so it is not recommended for
multicolour, more complicated prints. Plus each colour
need its new individual screen. It is basically impossible
to get transitions and smooth shadow effects with this
technique. A good thing about this process it that it is
possible to print light colours even on dark backgrounds.
The screen is prepared to work as a stencil in a specific
way. First the design is created, then a mesh suitable
for the complexity of the design and fabric is chosen,
then the mesh is coated with a layer of light-reactive
emulsion. The screen is then exposed to bright light,
which makes the areas without the design harden, leaving
the stencil design in liquid form. Extra emulsion is rinsed
off, the screen is dried and then it’s ready to use.
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02.
/traditional textiles
from across the world/
traditional
textiles
2022
I will start my research with exploring the
different traditional textile techniques from
across the world. It is important to know and
recognize ancient, traditional and cultural
techniques, whether it is patterns, prints,
weaving, embroidery or other mediums.
My goal is both to find out what the techniques
and patterns are in each tradition, but also to
recognize and understand how these textiles
have deep meanings that reflect its culture.
It so often happen that big brands take advantage,
copy, and appropriate these traditional techniques,
without consent, to use as their own, and this is
an area I will dive into later. But first we need to
learn about these different textile techniques.
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02. /Kente/
2022
traditional
textiles
Kente cloth is one of the most recognizable forms
of African textiles, associated with African heritage
and ancestry, wealth and pan-Africanism. Yet this
textile is only produced in Ghana and Togo.
Originally, the “cloth of kings”, Kente was limited to
royal people in the Asanti (aslo known as Ashanti)
and Ewe peoples, and associated with wealth,
high social status and cultural sophistication.
The textile was only worn on special occasions.
When Ghana gained their independence in 1957,
the president at the time, Kwame Nkrumah,
decided to promote the Kente cloth as the
unified representation of Ghana. Kente became
a symbol for their heritage and ancestry.
Traditionally, men wear kente like a robe-style
garment, draped across the shoulder and
around the body, while women wear kente in
three pieces; skirt, blouse and an additional
piece as a shawl draped over the arm.
Kente is woven into 9,5cm wide strips, that are
then sewn together to create larger cloths.
Originally, Kente cloth was black and white, but
later colours were introduced along with the
development of different dyes from plants.
Blue came from the Idigo plant, red from dried
cam wood, brown from Indian tamarind, and
green from boiled spinach leaves. The colours
of the Ghanaian flag is often seen in modern
cloths, with red, yellow, green and black.
Every pattern, shape and colour in Kente cloth has
a special meaning, and in different combinations
they symbolize unique meanings and messages
woven into the cloth. The different variations are
also meant to be worn on different occasions,
such as weddings, funerals, graduations, parties
and other ceremonies as well as social functions.
The textile is hand woven, typically by men, on
a wooden loom, by specialized artisans. It is
typically woven with cotton and rayon, but with
the Portuguese came silk, and a combination
of cotton and silk was introduced, and silk
was used for the most exclusive textiles.
The Asanti and Ewe Kentes differ in some ways, with
typically the Asante designs being more abstract
while the Ewe designs are more representational,
sometimes even featuring drawn or woven objects.
Here are some explanations of what
the different colours represent.
Black: spiritual strength, maturity,
mourning and funeral rites
Red: blood, death, political passion, strength
Blue; peace, love, unity and harmony
Gold/yellow: wealth, royalty
Green: growth, harvest, renewal
White: purity, cleansing rites, festive occasion
Purple/maroon: Mother Earth,
healing, protection from evil.
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02. /Yuzen silk/
2022
traditional
textiles
Yuzen is a traditional dyeing technique,
originating from 17th century Japan, to the
Edo period. The Yuzen technique eventually
developed in this time as a cheaper way of
producing the printed garments, to avoid
hiring painters to do each detail by brush.
The method is named after Miyazaki Yuzen,
a 17th century fan painter, who perfected this
technique that allowed for faster production.
There are two dominant techniques in creating
Yuzen cloth, known as Kyoto Yuzen and Kaga
Yuzen. Kyoto is Japans old capital and origin
of some of the worlds finest artisans. Kaga
Yuzen developed in the Kanazawa region,
back then known as the Kaga region.
Yuzen is the name of the method of how the silk is
painted. First the design is drawn on paper, to get
all the detail right. Then the design is transferred
to the silk fabric. A rice-based glue or paste is
then applied that acts like a wax, to make sure the
paint is not mixing, and creating clear oulines.
Then textile is then hand painted, with the pasted
areas resisting the paint. The dyes used are
traditionally all natural, coming from plants and
other natural substances, and typically a limited
colour palette is used. The textile uses five basic
colours; crimson red, ocher, indigo, dark green
and royal purple. For example, the purple is harder
to produce, so it is therefore more valuable.
After the fabric is dyed and hand-painted, Yuzen
cloth is embroided with different motifs, such as
Japanese flowers, birds and landscapes. Yuzen
also uses a kind of silk-screening technique
with paper stencils, with dye applied on top.
This technique is traditionally reserved fro
kimonos, and most kimonos are using this
textile. The kimono garment is first assembled,
where the design for it is prepared. The idea is,
when hung on a kimono rack, the garment works
as a piece of art on its own, and could even work
as a room divider or other decoration. When the
design is set, the kimono is disassembled to
be painted. It takes an entire bolt of silk, which
is 10 meters long and 35,5 centimeters wide,
to produce a single kimono. The entire piece
of fabric is streched out on a bamboo frame,
where its dyed and painted. When the design is
completed, the cloth is then steamed to set the
colours. After that, the backside if the fabric is
dyed, and then it has to be washed to remove
the rice paste. Originally this was done in the
rivers of Kanazawa, with the Kaga Yuzen cloths.
A fun fact about the Yuzen saga; centuries
after the beginning of this method, Japanese
immigrants came to Hawaii in the late 1800s,
working in sugar cane fields. They brought
their kimonos with them, and to adapt them
to the tropical climate, cut them to shirts.
The locals in Hawaii liked them so much,
and some of the workers left the fields to
make business of these shirts, and this is in
fact the origin of the Hawaiian aloha shirt.
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02. /Tartan/
2022
traditional
textiles
Tartan is a patterned cloth and regarded as a
cultural icon of Scotland, with its criss-crossed,
interlocking bands or stripes, in both the warp and
weft (diagonally and horizontally of the weaving
loom). The word “tartan” is Gaelic for “criss-cross”
and is commonly used for sowing kilts in Scotland.
Over the world, the earliest tartan cloth found
dates back to 3000 BCE (Before Common Era),
but pretty much anywhere where there was
woven cloth, tartan pattern was created. The
earliest known tartan in Scotland dates back to
the third of fourth century CE (Common Era).
Now, if this textile was created all over the world,
how did it become significant for Scotland
Originally tartan had no symbolic meaning or
name. It did become extremely popular in Scottish
Highland culture, and by the 17th and 18th century,
the textile was already defined as a characteristic
of Highland dress. It became so connected
with the culture that after the Battle of Culloden
in 1746, the British government, forbade the
wearing of tartan in the Highlands, as an attempt
to suppress the rebellious Scottish culture.
By the end of the 18th century, the production
of tartan had risen to such large quantities, that
they established standard colours and patterns
early on. At first they even used numbers
to identify the different designs, which later
evolved into town and family names, with the
intention of working as a sales tool, and not to
be representational in any way. However, in the
19th century the idea developed for the tartans
to have actual connections to specific clans, or
families. Eventually by the end of the century it was
accepted for the tartans to be representative and
the tradition continued. The textile can represent
everything from families, towns and districts to
corporations, individuals and events. Today, there
are over 7 000 unique tartan designs on record.
The actual design of tartan is boldly colored, with
the most recognizable example with red wool with
green, yellow, white, and blue accents. Traditionally
it was mainly made from wool (sometimes silk was
added), meant for kilts, suits for men, and dresses
and skirts for women. It is still widely popular, with
high-end designers taking use of it, like Burberry,
Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. It
can be seen on the streets, as school uniforms, in
punk fashion and on the runways, and the same
diversity goes for where the pattern is used.
Tartan was popularized by the royal family in
the 1800s, and the iconic red Tartan named
Royal Stewart, was not to be worn without the
permission from the Queen. However, is the
1970s, these rules were definitley broken. The
punk movement used the Royal tartan as a way
of saying their f* you’s to the monarchy. Instead
they had their own queen; Vivienne Westwood
and her punk, anarchist aesthetic, together with
punk-rock bands like The Clash and The Sex
Pistols. Johnny Rotten from the latter group, often
used this textile, and even attended court in 1979,
with bright red, spiky hair with a tartan suit.
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02. /Otomi embroidery/
2022
traditional
textiles
From the indigenous Otomi people of Mexico, a
iconic embroidered textile has taken over the world.
Beloved for its colourful, bright and vibrant motifs,
the textile usually have an arrangement of flora and
fauna and local beliefs embroidered on them.
The Otomi culture is one of the oldest
Mesoamerican cultures and are originally from the
central Mexico, and were in 2015 the fifth largest
indigenous group in the Mexican republic, with
approximately 300 000 to 670 000 people.
the garment, without using stencils, by the artisans.
This whole process in extremely time consuming,
and one cloth can take several months or even
years to complete. Even though this is such a
lengthy process, the garments sell for a fraction
of what they should be worth, with all the time,
care, creativity, soul and tradition put into them.
The textiles are traditionally used for tablecloths,
bed linens and wall hangings, as well as to sell on
the local markets. No two pieces are identical,
since the initial designs are hand sketched.
The textile is traditionally hand embroidered on
a Ivory muslin fabric, which is a durable, cotton
based fabric that is fine and smooth and gets softer
after each wash. The embroidery technique is
typically design, drawn and made by women Otomi
artisans. These textiles represent a great Mexican
tradition that has been going on for generations.
The symbols usually found in the designs are mostly
flora and fauna, as mentioned. The animals, often
thought as bearers of important news, represent the
cardinal direction and daily events in the culture,
with animals such as deer, armadillos, roosters,
squirrels, birds and rabbits. Flowers and plants
represent fertility and nature. According to some
legends, the embroidered figures were inspired by
some nearby cave drawings, and also resembles
the thousands of years old drawings. Of course the
main inspiration also by the natural surroundings
of Mexico. All of these designs are hand drawn on
In the 1960s, severe droughts in the region, forced
the farming communities to turn to alternative
work, in the climat of an economical crisis. This
resulted in a commercialized and more simple
way of producing the Otomi embroidery, called
Tenango. The name comes from the area called
Tenago de Doria. Since the people were forced to
commercialize their designs, it also meant their
popularity spread widely. The Tenago embroidery
is adapted to be sold for the outside world, and are
arranged onto the fabric in a geometric pattern,
creating almost completely symmetrical designs.
The same figures of flora and fauna are used, with
vivid but realistic colours such as yellows, reds,
greens and blues. Either the cloth is multi coloured,
or then the whole design uses one single colour.
The multi coloured ones are arranged in a kind of
striped patterns over the elements. The embroidery
is small with tight stitches, but varies with quality.
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02. /Kuba Cloth/
2022
traditional
textiles
Kuba Cloth is typically identified by its
bold, graphic patterns, usually in earth
tones and black. This cloth originated
from 17th century of the Kuba Kingdom in
today’s Democratic Republic of Congo.
The Kingdom was founded in 1625, and
is known for its highly developed political
system for that time, with political elections
and trials by jury. The Kuba Kingdom had
a flourishing arts industry, and had a big
role in society, with artists commissioned
for sculpture, basketry and textiles.
The Kuba Cloth is woven from raffia palm
fibers, with a long process of the fibers first
being stripped and kneaded for softening,
then the strands are coloured with vegetable
dyes. The most common colours created are
shades of ivory, brown, clay red, and indigo
blue. The textile is woven on a 45 degree
angled loom, which requires great skills and
physical stamina, since you are working about
your head. This is typically done by men, and
the later steps, in finishing and decorating the
cloth, is done by women. The finished texture
of the cloth can be compared to velvet.
The patterns of Kuba Cloth are typically
presented as rectangular and geometric but
are in fact slightly irregular. Some compare
this to traditional Congolese music, which is
known for its slightly off-beat phrasing. The
designs create hypnotic designs, meant to
occupy your eye without allowing it to rest, to
create intimidating and interesting designs. It
is said that this cloth influences artists such as
Picasso and Matisse, and apparently Matisse
could stare at these cloth like he was waiting
for something to jump out of the design.
The designs have changed over the years,
and the further back you go, the more subtle
and plain the designs were. The cloth can
then be further embroidered, or decorated
with appliqué, patchwork or even with adding
beads or shells. There are over 200 types
of traditional patterns, including hexagons,
rectangles, squares, chess, triangles and more
compositions. These designs are handed
down from generation to the next, and the
patterns are rarely planned ahead, but instead
created from memory and repetition
The textile was traditionally weaved to a garment
functioning as a wraparound skirt for ritual
festivals and performances. Some of the Kuba
Cloths can be several meters long, and can be
hung behind royal thrones, draped over altars
or be used as sleeping mats. This is also one
of the reasons the cloth can be meant to be
intimidating, without allowing the eyes to rest;
to function as a sign of power and social status.
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02. /Paisley/
2022
traditional
textiles
This pattern took place in ancient Babylon
somewhat dating back to 1700 BCE. Another claim
is that its beginning started in the city of Yazd, in
Iran, where the traditional weaving technique took
form, called termeh. This cloth was usuallt made
from silk and wool, and often included the paisley
shape, also called boteh. Overall it is agreed on
that the pattern has Persian and Indian origins.
The shape of paisley is fashinating by its own.
Some may describe it as droplet, a seedshaped
vegetable or also called the Persian
Pickle. The name boteh in Persian, means bush,
shrub, a thicket or herb. Some would even
connect this with a palm leaf or flower buds.
However, this shape is connected with natural
growth, with its symbolic power is connected to
fertility, birth, life, harvest and Hinduism, and also
has some resemblance to the yin-yang symbol.
The paisley shape is in fact a very natural one,
that works both in mathematic as infinite, neverending
shapes, but also as the shapes of nature,
the geometry of the irregular; fractals. Like paisley,
fractals work as shapes within shapes, and can
function on any scale while holding the same shape.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, imports to Europe
via the silk routes sparked the pattern’s popularity
in Europe. Before, with the pattenrs roots in
India and since the British were colonizers,
the English men brought home from India the
new, soft, warm and patterned Kashmir shawls,
which the women fell in love with. The demand
in Europe grew massively, and the cost of one
could rise to the same amount as a small house.
Later, since the costs were so high of the luxurious
textile, the European started copying it and
producing the shawls for a fraction of the cost.
This phenomenon got so big in Europe that the
city Paisley in Scotland, where it was specially
popular, became the boteh weaving center of
the pattern in Europe. Even today’s name of the
pattern is based on this town, Paisley, even thought
it is far from the actual roots of the pattern.
In Europe, the pattern was mostly two-coloured,
but when the weaving technology evolved,
they boosted it up to five-colour patterns.
However, this had nothing on the up to 15
colours that the original, Indian versions had.
The iconic pattern is extremely popular in
Iran and south and central Asian countries.
These designs can be found in woven gifts
and textiles gifted for special occasions, and
aside from clothing, also in paintings, jewelry,
pottery, other interior textiles and carpets.
The pattern really got associated with hippies in
the 60s, when the rock n roll “summer of love”
sparked the psychedelic music, and drugs
connection with the east. The pattern with its fracals,
naturally became associated with the movement.
Today the pattern is printed on quality silk,
whereas before they were hand woven.
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02. /Ikat/
2022
traditional
textiles
Ikat textiles stand out from the mass, both for their
beautiful patterns with an almost blurry effect, but
also because of the technique. The textile is dyed
before it is woven, while most commonly textiles
are dyed and printed on after being woven into a
textile. Because of this, it certainly affects the overall
look of the textile and stands out from the majority.
The origin of Ikat dyeing is a bit unclear, and the
ancient trade routes of Asia blur the history of
the Ikat. However, it is clear that the technique
evolved in Indonesia and other South East Asian
countries such as Cambodia, Myanmar, Philippines
and Thailand. Ikat has especially been a part of
Indonesia’s history, and with its 17 000 islands, the
technique was perfected in different ways regionally.
The Ikat is not indigenous to India, but because
of the ancient trade ties between India, Indonesia
and China. India manufactured Ikat for a long time
and the fine quality of it became so popular, it
at one point worked as currency on the famous
Silk Route. What is interesting is that the oldest
surviving example of the textile was found in
an Indian style Ikat found in a Pharaohs tomb,
and this works as proof of the longstanding
trade between India and Egypt as well.
make the whole prpocess cost effective, and
also commonly uses syntethic fibers which are
the cheaper option, and commercialized.
Since the yarn is dyed before it is actually woven,
a clear understanding of the pattern and precise
methods of applying the dyes have to take place.
There are three types of Ikat; Warp, Weft and
Double Ikat. Warp defining the diagonal threads
on a weaving loom, and weft the horizontal
ones, and then double both of them. In Warp
Ikat it is only the warp yarn that is dyed and that
created the pattern. The weft yarn is dyed a
solid colour and this is the easiest technique of
the three. The pattern of the warp can clearly
be seen on the loom before it is woven. This
technique is mostly produced in Indonesia.
Weft Ikat has only its weft thread dyed in a pattern,
and the warp yarns in a solid colour. The weft is
commoncly a single strand of yarn which makes
it complicated. This technique is well established
in Bali and South Sumatra, and is way harder to
make, since the pattern only appear when you
weave it, and has to be adjusted after every row.
Any small shifting of the weft thread and the pattern
changes, and is therefore a much slower process.
Ikat can be woven from any dyeable yarn, but
uses mostly cotton, silk and wool, with the two
latter being more expencive. Today, Ikat is
being made industrially by machines, which
Double ikat is an even more complicated process,
where both the warp and the weft is dyed to
create a matching pattern. This is obviously
also the most expencive textile of the three.
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03.
/traditional
patterns/
Traditional
patterns
2022
Next up I will reasearch about traditional patterns,
such as stripes and checks. These ones feel
"basic" compared to the previous research,
but, are as important to understand. These are
the building blocks of any pattern design.
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03. /Stripes/
2022
Tradition
patterns
Stripes, as a pattern (more than one stripe together),
has a long history, which is pretty funny since
you may think it’s too basic to have one.
Stripes are commonly seen in nature, like the coat of a
zebra, striped fish, bees, and of course plants. Two toned
stripes tend to catch one’s attention, and are used for
signaling hazards, road signs and barricade tapes.
In Western cultures, stripes have been associated
with negative symbolism. In the medieval times in
Europe, striped clothing was meant for those on the
margins or outside the social order, which included
jogglers, clowns and prostitutes. In medieval paintings,
the devil himself was painted wearing stripes, and
the pattern was even called the devil’s cloth. Stripes
were frowned upon because they lacked depth.
In the 18th century, Europe went into a Neo-classical
style, and stripes became more popular for both
clothes and interiors. However, the negative connotation
with stripes remained, and was introduced to
prisoners as black and white striped clothes in order
for them to be highly visible if they escaped.
Years later, stripes became an uniform pattern, with both
sailors, fishermen and school uniforms taking on the
pattern. Then in the 20th century, stripes became part of
high fashion, with brands even developing their brands
around the pattern, like Adidas and Tommy Hilfiger.
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03. /Stripes/
2022
Tradition
patterns
Pinstripe is believed to fist be used on bank employee
uniforms, with different coloured stripes for each bank.
This stripe pattern is commonly used on suits, pants,
skirts and jackets. The pinstripe has a thin (about
two yarns thick), dash-like line typically in a lighter
colour than the “background”, since the other stripe
is so much wider in relation to the pin stripe. Chalk
stripes are similar to pinstripes, with too a vertical, thin
stripe, but this time dotted. The name comes from
the resemblance from the line of a tailor’s chalk.
/pinstripe/
/chalk stripe/
/awning/
/candy stripe/
/bengal stripe/
Awning stripes are wide and is also known as cabana or
block stripes. It is concidered the widest vertical stripe. The
candy stripe is similar, but usually have two or more colours,
typically in white and pastels. The bengal stripe is not as
wide as the awning, but not as thin as the candy stripe.
The herringbone stripes is traditionally a woven or printed
pattern of zigzags, and is also known as chevron. The
pencil stripe consist of stripes as thick as ones drawn
with a pencil, and the hairline stripe, being the thinnest
of all, are as thin as a hair. Balanced are based from a
middle point with a symmetrical layout, and shadow
stripes play with shades to create shadow effects.
/herringbone/
/pencil stripe/
/hairline stripe/
/balanced stripes/
/shadow stripe/
Regimental stripes are placed diagonally and often
feature basic colours like burgundy, blue and red, and
is popular for ties. Hickory was commcnly used in work
clothes, and is a white stripe placed on an indigo blue
background. Roman stripes are bright, bold and playful,
while bayadere or aradonis stripes derives from India,
meant for dancers. Bar code stripes vary in width, just
like bar codes, but can, and often is multicolored.
/regimental/
/hickory/
/roman stripe/
/bayadere/
/barcode/
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03. /Checks/
Tradition
patterns
Checkered patterns consist of vertical and horizontal
lines that cross each other, forming boxes or squares.
There are many different types of checks, with many
different names and stories, so it is important to
remember the difference, especially in fashion.
2022
The words check comes from the Persian saying
in chess “shah mat” (the king is dead), the English
saying check-mate, from an old form of chess played
on a squared board in coloured checkers.
The pattern is not limited to humans, but does in
fact exist naturally in nature, with examples like the
checkered garter snake, the checkered skipper which
is a butterfly, as well as some bugs and beetles too.
Different check patterns are also linked to
different textiles, garments and social contexts,
and cultural and political connections.
Scotland is known for its Tartan pattern, which I will cover
later, and the pattern can be found in ancient South
Indian textile designs from the 16th to the 17th century.
After WW2, the popularity of check patterns rose, and Burberry
especially got known for its plaid pattern. In the 70s and
80s, the music genre ska and its two-tone era was heavily
influenced with the checkerboard pattern, most seen in
chekered Vans shoes, check fedoras, overalls and ties.
The keffiyeh, a headdress worn in the middle east, is
also distinguished by its checkered pattern, in both
red and white and black and white. These design are
specially important Yemen, Palestine and Jordan.
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03. /Checks/
2022
Tradition
patterns
Argyle checks is a patterns based on diamond shaped
lozenges, as it's called. This pattern is often seen in
sweaters and socks. Personally I link this pattern to my
grandmother, since she always rocked this pattern in her
sweaters. Buffalo checks is an all over patterns based on
big squares, usually from red and black. They are formed by
the intersection of the two different colours. Casual shirts
are usually seen using this pattern. Checkerboard is said to
be one of the patterns that never go out of style. It is built
of equally sized squares, in two different colours, usually
white and black. This looks like a chessboard. Glen checks
are known as the Prince of Wales check, and is an irregular
sized, randomly distributed check pattern. It featured both
light and darker stripes, usually worn in office wear.
/argyle check/
/buffalo check/
/basket weave/
/checkerboard/
/glen check/
The graph check explains itself really; it looks like a
graph paper, with pencil thin lines and "unfilled" squares.
Gingham check is the typical picnic blanket. It has two or
more, small sized squares, and one colour is always white.
Dupplin checks are formed of simple checks combined
with the windowpane checks. Gunclub checks are a double
checked workwear pattern, made from two or more dark
colours usually red-brown, black, pine green, against a
light background. Harlequin checks are also diamond
shaped checks, but has a small line of space inbetween.
/graph check/
/gingham/
/dupplin check/
/gun club check/
/harlequin check/
Madras checks are uneven both in space and shapes,
with vibrant colours intersecting. The shepherd's check
resembles gingham, but is set against a twill weaving
background. The houndstooth patterns is a sub-catergory
of the former, but has its squares broken, looking like
teeth. Tartan we already covered. Windowpane resembles
windows, with lighter lines on a contrasting background.
/madras check/
/houndstooth/
/shepherds check/
/tartan/
/windowpane/
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04.
/cultural
appropriation
2022
/plagiarism
in the fashion
industry/
Cultural
appropriation
Plagiarism and cultural appropriation is something
extremely prevalent in the fashion industry.
Big brands tend to steal design of small artists
and designers, or, more significantly, use
traditional designs from indigenous and ancient
techniques and designs, and uses them as
their own. I want to learn about this, understand
the difference so I can avoid it by all means.
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04. /Cultural Appropriation in the fashion industry/
2022
Cultural
appropriation
Cultural appropriation and exploitation is
extremely common in the fashion industry, both
in runway styling, and in garments. The cultural
appropriation commonly appear in almost direct
copying of traditional, indigenous, and ancient
techniques, pattens, prints and textiles.
This is a subject that is highly relevant, urgent and
needs to change and get treated like the problem
it is. If I base my project on creating patterns,
prints or textile designs, the most important thing
is going to make sure I learn enough about this
topic to not make these mistakes in any way.
I know it is hard to create something brand new,
since nothing is really original, but the difference
has to be somewhere in educating yourself in the
topic and learning ways to avoid any mistakes
to happen. But this is also a very important and
extremely interesting topic for me, and I would
like to learn about this as much as possible.
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04. /Cultural Appropriation/
2022
Cultural
appropriation
Cultural appropriation, according to Oxford
Languages, as definition is “the unacknowledged
or inappropriate adoption of the customs,
practices, ideas, etc. of one people or
society by members of another and typically
more dominant people or society.”
The word “appropriation” on its own, is
defined as “The making of a thing private
property...; taking as one’s own or to one’s own
use.”, by the Oxford English Dictionary.
The term first took off in the 1980s, as it started
being used in academic spaces to discuss
colonialism and the relationships between
groups and peoples. Eventually the term
also made its way into popular culture.
Britannica refers cultural appropriation to be
“when members of a majority group adopt
cultural elements of a minority group in a
exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical way.”
This differs to the Oxford definition, stating that it is
only cultural appropriation when the intentions are
“bad”. This however is contradicting, since in the
many cases of cultural appropriation, the intentions
are rarely intentional, or meant in a demeaning way,
yet is still classified as cultural appropriation. These
arguments will be looked at more deeply later.
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05.
/print based
fashion brands/
2022
/collections/
Brands
Next up is researching cool brands, that
works as inspiration. Some brands are
known for their amazing prints, and I
want to find out more about them.
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05. /FARM Rio/
Brands
FARM Rio is a Brazilian brand, based in Rio
de Janeiro, that had its start in 1997.
Their describe themselves as a believing in good
energies, quality with an adoration of details, and
the emotions created by elements such as solar
rays, colours and shapes that nature brings to us.
2022
After they started, the Brazilians quickly fell
in love with their brand, their patterns and
the feeling of capturing the true Brazilian life
style is garments. The brand embodies the
feminine spirit and the vibrant colours of Rio.
FARM Rio states that they are a fashionforward
brand and vintage-inspired,
with their cheerful creations crafted with
an exotic, toes-in-the-sand spirit.
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05. /Marimekko/
2022
Brands
Marimekko, is a Finnish textile, clothing and
lifestyle brand, known for their original prints and
colours. They produce high-quality clothing,
interior decoration textiles, bags and accessories.
The iconic Finnish brand was founded in 1951,
and for seventy years they have produced floral,
striped, checkered and more designs, that in total
counts up to 3 500 different print designs. The
whole brand started from one dress, and grew
into a whole lifestyle universe of designs, ranging
from clothes to ceramics, fabrics and more.
They state that their bold designs work as badges
of positivity and personal empowerment, with
their lifelong mission being to bring colour and
joy into lives and homes everywhere. Around
one million meters of fabric is produced
at the Marimekko printing mill every year.
And their factory is based in Helsinki
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05. /Dolce Gabbana/
/Fall/2022/Menswear/
Concept
Dolce Gabbana presented their Fall collection for
Menswear 2022, stating that they are challenging
themselves; “We’re questioning everything we’ve
been used to. Things are changing, and we
welcome that change; we want to experience the
new, which makes us evolve and move forward.”
2022
The print looks pretty cool, like you have directly
drawn or painted on the fabric. This could be an
option for me and for my print. The fabric could
be plain but has been painted on, which means
I could find ready garments and print or paint
on them. This would be a way of eliminating
the process of printing on a fabric and sewing
it up, which is kind of out of my expertise.
The challenge here is; the risk of painting
directly onto a fabric might feel a bit too DIY,
home-crafty. I still want it to look like design,
something with e deep thought and plan,
and not something too messy and tacky.
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06.
/upcoming/
small-scale/
2022
contemporary
fashion brands/
Brands
I want to research more about brands, and
especially small, up-coming fashion brands. I want
to see what they do, and how they do it. And, of
course, what kind of cool products they sell.
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06. /Amber Day/
2022
Brands
Amber Day, originally from Toronto, but based in
New York, is a small scale fashion designer. She uses
different techniques and materials, and commonly
mixes screen printing, digital printing, knitting,
felting, collage and embroidery. Her graphic work
is described as colourful, raw and delicate, and she
commonly uses scrap fabrics to create stunning
textures. Her clean shapes almost becomes like
a palette, where fabric replaces paint, and looks
like the garment has been used as a canvas.
The different techniques, and recycled materials
are really inspiring. It is inspiring to see how
her clothes that look almost hand painted
have a more contemporary take on print. It
feels free, creative and joyful, something I
would like to achieve with this project.
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06. /Alexandra Sipa/
Brands
Alexandra Sipa was founded as recently as
2020, after her graduation from studying
BA Fashion Womenswear at Central Saint
Martins. The company is run by Alexandra
and her business partner Lukas Baker.
2022
The brand is already known for its spectacular
lace work from discarded electrical wires, and
the philosophy is centered around upcycling
and sustainability. She created luxury textiles
from waste, and discarded fabrics and turned
into amazing garments. Their guiding principle is
seeing waste as an opportunity to discover new
techniques. They also want to bring awareness to
the issue of electrical waste, which is one of the
biggest and fastest growing sources of waste.
Alexandra Sipa thinks that fashion needs to
become more sustainable, from inside out, and
not only from the materials used, but also ethically
with the treatment and compensation of everybody
involved in the supply and design chain.
Her work is extremely creative, giving me
inspiration in a sence that you can create
something from anything. Even though it is
not about prints, it gives a great insight and
inspiration of detail, technique and materials.
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06.
/Knitwrth/
2022
Brands
I have been following Knitwrth now for a while, and
at first glance I was truly fascinated by how in the
world they produce their clothes. I mean how do
they create realistic images on a knitted or woven
fabric, and realizing from close ups that it can’t
be printed. Up close you can see the different
coloured fibers going over and under each other,
together creating the colour seen from further
away. This question haunted me for weeks, and
without really trying hard enough to find an answer.
However I finally got my answer from Natalia, the
fashion tutor, and the production technique is called
Knitted Jacquard. This is a common technique
to get any kind of prints on a weaved or knitted
material. I will go more into depth on this later.
It is hard to find information about this brand, it is
a bit mysterious. They drop collections monthly
that sell out in less than 24 hours, and use iconic
imagery from pop culture. My other question is
how in the world they get the rights to the images.
The brand is created by Kris Cantu, who was actually
sewing the pieces together himself from his studio,
while his brother was dealing with imagery. Now the
company has grown, the pieces selling from $220
and up, and Instagram followers reaching 30k.
This brand also work as true inspiration for my
project, being small scale and working with print.
However they do not really create their own prints.
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06.
/Rave Review/
2022
Brands
Rave Review was born in 2017, by Josephine Bergqvist
and Livia Schuck, having met at Stockholm’s
Beckmans College of Design. They had the same
passion for sustainability, and their common goal
was to create a brand that did not exist at the
expense of the environment. Rave Review is made
to be sustainable and eco-friendly, and shows
unique designs with bold pattern combinations.
I found them on Instagram a while ago, and
instantly fell in love with their designs, and
especially the mixing and matching of prints,
patterns and textiles. I thought this brand would
be the perfect inspiration for this project.
Having read about traditional textiles, it is fun to
realize how often they use tartan, but usually with
a mix with more contemporary textiles. The colour
combinations are absolutely stunning, and you
really get the feel of vintage and thrift, mixed with
more high-end design. All of their clothes are in fact
made from up-cycled garments and pre-existing
materials, which is kind of clear, and it works so well.
They actually started off by making everything from
thrifted and second-hand clothes and textiles.
Their vision is to become the first high-end fashion
lines with a circular business model. They mention
that since what they are doing is not so conventional,
they need to invent new ways of working. A very good
example of what the future of fashion can look like.
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06. /Paynestar/
Concept
Paynestar is a cool, small brand I found. There is little
to no information about the actual brand, but what
I know is that they do very cool prints, they display
their clothes and pieces in very interesting ways,
and everything looks exclusive and like art pieces.
2022
Their photo manipulation style is really inspiring to
me and how they use text and different techniques.
It almost feel like they did it in an analogue style,
like the images use smudges, looking like they
wrote it on a board and smudged it out.
Their colour scheme is also interesting, with
a lot of pastel colours combined with black.
Their prints are also very cool, ranging from
interesting shapes to images and text.
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07.
/concept/brand
idea/philosophy/
2022
identity/
Introduction
Before I start forming my brand, I really need to have
a reason why. Why am I creating this brand, what is
the meaning of it, and what am I trying to say with it.
What feeling do I want the recipient to get and how
do I want to make people feel with the things I offer.
Another important thing; why is this brand worth
existing? There are already so many fashion
brands out there, do we really need another one.
How can I make my brand do as least damage to
the world, environment and people as possible?
And how can I make is as sustainable as possible,
with the resources realistically available for me.
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07.
/Concept storming/
random
inspiration
2022
Concept
When thinking about what kind of brand I want to create, the
main words and feelings that come to mind is playful and bold.
The energy should be exciting and vivid, with something that
captures your attention and makes a strong first impression.
If it is hard to think of all the things I want it to be,
sometimes it helps to count the things I definitely don’t
want the brand to turn out like. I don’t want it to be bland,
boring or something that melts into the masses.
I started to analyze my interests, which has always included
and rotated around culture and nature. Social issues and
politics, or cultural movements is too something I would
love to bring into my project, in some way. I want the
meaning and concept behind it all to be linked to these.
I already dedicated one of my university projects to the
natural patterns of nature, the processes of how similar
patterns and shapes appear in different parts in the natural
world. This is now an interest that keeps coming back to me,
because I’m constantly reminded of it in our environment,
but also I dedicated so much time on learning the details
of them. I wondered if this was something I could use as
inspiration for this project, but in a new way. The thing is,
for the book project about patterns in nature that I did, I
wanted to depict the patterns by drawing. I quickly realized
that this is no point, since nature already does everything
perfectly, and drawing and putting art into the mix would
only worsen the quality of the subject I’m presenting.
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07.
/Concept storming/
natural
inspiration
2022
Concept
This wired by brain into thinking that nature cannot be
reproduced by my hands, and why even try since it’s
already perfect. So I definitely had a negative mindset
about the use of nature and its patterns in my project.
I was discussing this with my friend, and I told her it
feels impossible, since nature is so mathematical. Her
answer really reset my mind, and the thinking pattern I
was stuck in. She said, “But nature can also be a feeling.”
The most common feeling nature gives us is grounding,
peace and relaxation. It truly has a calming effect on us,
and some may even see it as deeply spiritual. Nature
means different things to us all. I read an text about a
girl who was dyeing fabrics with natural mediums, and
said that using natural ingredients and dyes had the
same calming effect on her as walking in the forest.
Well, I don’t want my brand to be calming. I don’t
want something relaxing. I want the opposite.
So, can nature be bold, energetic and striking. Well
yes of course, it is basically what it is, with erupting
volcanoes, the wild ocean and its striking colours.
My mind went to ways nature portray energy,
danger and action. How does it do this and with
what techniques. The first thing I thought of was
natural warning colours, with black and yellow bees
and other animals to naturally portray hazards and
danger. The warning colours of animals and plants
to prevent being eaten by potential predators.
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07.
/Aposematism/
2022
Concept
Aposematism is the biological term of how animals
and organisms advertise its dangerous nature to
potential predators. These advertising signals include
colorations, sounds, odors or other characteristics,
to present toxicity, venom, foul taste or smell, or
even aggressive nature. Aposematic colouration
is a form of either letting the predator know that
they are poisonous, or tricking them into believing
that they are. This is called batesian mimicry, when
harmless animals or organisms mimic noxious or
dangerous ones or those who have a warning system.
This definition is the opposite of animal camouflage.
An example is; some butterflies and moths attempt
to blend into their surroundings, using camouflage
and disguise, while others do the opposite, having
bright, outstanding colours, all the avoid being eaten.
Studies show that most animals associate greens
and blues with safety, while red, orange, yellow and
white are signs of danger. This also icludes that
patterns with spots and stripes draws attention.
Therefore toxic animals have developed a working
warning coloration, often consisting of the attentiondrawing
colours and patterns combined.
Defensive markings that are known to frighten or
startle potential predators are known as diematic
patterns, and the typical example is the use of
ocelli. Ocelli is the pair of false-eye markings on
butterflies. These eyes are often scary to birds, or
startle them long enough to have time to escape.
aposematism
in animals
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07.
/Psychology of clothing/
warning and
camouflage colours
2022
Concept
As I was further discussing the theme of aposematism
with my friend, we concluded that the psychology
of how we dress, can be compared to the animal’s
colours and patterns. I mentioned the butterflies,
some choose camouflage and some the opposite,
right. Well, my friend compared this to when she
chooses clothes. This is not something she typically
thinks about, but when analyzing the unintentional
actions, came to the conclusion that some days
she just wants to melt in, and dresses accordingly,
whereas some days she wants to stand out.
Like the camouflaged butterflies, some days we choose
our clothes to not be seen, to go to the supermarket
without being remembered, or to go study to the
library with the intention of being left in peace. But,
on other days, the intentions can vary, and the only
goal is to stand out, leave a mark and turn heads.
Of course, some people always dress like this, while
others always choose to blend in, or a combination.
But the point is that, it’s interesting to analyze how
we choose our clothes, and how they make us feel.
My friend says that if she goes to the library to study,
being dressed in a more rough, standing-out way
with clothes that make her feel special and unique, it
doesn’t only boost her ego, but she means that she
reads better too. This is because how the clothes
make her feel, and how she gains confidence from
them. This is compared to days she goes to read with
more bland clothes, without the extra ego boost, and
in result gets less done, if analyzed in rough scale.
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07.
/Psychology of clothing/
Concept
So, how do these thought translate into my brand, my concept
and the philosophy? I want to create a collection that does not
blend in; I want my designs to stand out. With the inspiration from
warning colourations of animals, and thinking about how they warn
“potential predators”, it can be translated into fashion as well.
2022
In the article “Aposematism: Fashion’s antisocial adaptions”, by
Ssence, they compare this type of self protection as an reaction to
the claustrophobic society we live in, where privacy is rare and longed
for. They say that shirts that say “FUCK OFF” are not just for teenagers
anymore, and mention the brand Antisocial Social Club, which targets
these people. They bring up that personal space is a luxury for few,
but desired by all, and implements that clothes falling under the radar
of aposematism, would scare people off into leaving them alone.
Now, I don’t want to go as far as making clothes with the sole purpose of
saying fuck off to people, but, the theory of this is interesting. But, I do
like clothes to make some sort of statement. If you go to this extreme, of
warning people off, or warning “potential predators”, it could be compared
to how people make snap judgments of people that dress in a more
provocative, punk, emo or other subcultural way. People are quick with their
judgments, and sometimes more provocative clothing on people definitely
works as a way to create distance. This might lead to creating that distance
with, for instance, judgmental people, while then attracting the like minded
ones. As a result, if the goal was to get to know people, or as compared
in nature to finding a mating partner, you rule out the people you want to
avoid just by looking a certain way, while then attracting like minded.
Like animals warning off predators in nature to avoid being eaten, humans
don’t really have that threat as we are considered “super predators”. The
only predators are amongst ourselves, other humans. As stated in the
article “How the Wild World of Animal Defence Mechanisms are Manifesting
in Fall Fashion”, by fashionmagazines.com, “the only physical method we
have of warding off attackers - barring brute force and actual weapons - is
our clothes. Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.”
“antisocial” fashion
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07.
/Psychology of clothing/
2022
Concept
Some might link the word predators with how men might act as threats
to women, and how we are constantly being objectified, and quite
honestly scared. Fashion and women in general, with beauty standards,
are often centered around the male gaze. Women often feel tired, angry
and sad about this, and it can show in how we choose to dress, where
the message is not to mess with us. My friend mentioned how she knows
how many gazing looks she will get during a day based on what clothes
she’s wearing, and how some days she would want to wear one outfit
but chooses not to because she just can’t deal with the stares. This is
the sad reality of women, and how also we might want to go for a walk at
night alone, but chooses not to, because of the risks created by men.
The same article by fashionmagazine,com also features a quote by
Miuccia Prada about her collection in 2018, that had “predator warning
fluoro accents - as a feminist statement”; she said “My dream is for
women to be able to go out in the street and not be afraid.” At the
same time women’s fashion are turning away from the male gaze.
The article has yet another great quote that goes; “Clothes are no
longer a maraschino cherry garnish for the feminine body but rather a
potential weapon or blockade. They are, in essence, the new armor.”
This theme I’m now going into also reminds me of punk. The way
punks typically dressed were often with the intention to startle,
challenge and tear apart the norms of fashion. The brightly
coloured hairs, like warning colours, together with the "illegal" use
of the traditional pattern tartan, Vivienne Westwood and the whole
way of questioning, challenging and destroying the typical.
Now, it is nothing new with taking inspiration from animals and nature
and implementing it into fashion; nature has always been the main
source of inspiration for humans and continues to be so. But it is for a
reason it is so popular. My goal is to take inspiration from nature and
combine it with another source of inspiration, which will in this case be
the psychology of how we dress, the subcultures of fashion and punk.
feminism
/aposematism
84/ Ellen Andersin Final Major Project
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08.
/fashion market/
branding/
2022
understanding
the industry/
Fashion
market
Since fashion is a completely new subject for
me, I need to do some research to understand
it better. Since my goals is to create a possible
fashion brand, or at least make something a
bit realistic, there is no doubt a lot to learn.
86/ Ellen Andersin Final Major Project
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08.
/Fashion market levels/
/Haute Couture
/Luxury
2022
Fashion
market
The fashion industry is absolutely huge, and it can be
difficult to determine on what level your upcoming fashion
brand is going to be. We know there are mass production
products, where a normal garment or accessory can cost a
few euros. Then on the other hand we have quality driven,
high end product where you pay for the brand too, where a
garment can cost thousands. The whole industry in fashion
market levels can be divided into six different levels.
Form top to bottom, where bottom is quantity and
price before quality, and the opposite on top, we have
Economy, High Street, Brand Diffusion, Bridge Brands,
Luxury and on the very top Haute Couture.
Haute couture is luxurious, expensive, with the brands often
being personal to the consumer, and they can not be replicated.
These are hand made of very high quality, made by the best
teams of designers and seamstresses. To be regarded as haute
couture, requirements by the French Ministry of Industry must
be met, and daywear can start at $10,000 and up, and nightwear
being considerably more. It has been estimated that there are
only about 4 000 haute couture clients in the whole world, which
means it’s very elite, and only for the top. Examples of brands are
Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and likewise.
The next category is Luxury. The items are not particularly hand
made, but produced, but to a limited amount with high quality.
The luxury designer brands that fall under this category all belong
to the six main luxury corporations. The prices are still high
enough to feel part of the elite market, but also depending on
the garment. These brands are expected to create at least two
Ready To Wear collections a year, where expecting trends and
themes are presented. Examples of luxury brands include Chanel,
Moshino, Dior, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada.
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08.
/Fashion market levels/
2022
Fashion
market
The third level out of the six in the fashion market levels is
Bridge brands. These are the best of the high street brands. As
the name suggests, this level works as a bridge between highend
and luxury. These brands usually offer minimalistic designs
in very good quality, within an more affordable price, typically
starting at $50. The target consumers in this category are usually
sophisticated, middle class women who are over 30 years of
age. Some examples are wRalph Lauren, DKNY and Armani.
Next, and fourth from the top, is Brand Diffusion. These brands
are bridge brands, but with a section of their brand having a
lower price point. This cheaper section usually have more variety
in products, and targets younger people with smaller budgets.
These garments are produced in bulk but not mass-produced.
Examples include Burberry, Versace, Ralph Laurent, Moschino and
Calvin Klein, who all have diffusion lines named for example; CK
Jeans, Love Moschino, Polo Ralph Laurent and Versace Jeans.
Next we have High Street, which is a huge category and can be
sectioned into three under categories, high end high street, mid level
and mass market high street. High end focuses on their core costumer
profile, and have a very defined style. In other words they to not tend
to please everyone for every occation, like the mid level and mass
market high street do. These garments are typically from $40 and up,
and are mass produced. Mid level high street can be regarded as the
hardest fashion market level to sell in. It is challenging to establish
a clear consumer market here, and the products are neither cheap
nor of high quality. The costumer is offered trendy clothes for every
season and occasion, and the price range seems to be from $20-
$150. Some high street brands are GAP, Topshop and Zara Atelier.
Brands of
different levels
The sixth category is Economy, that screams mass
production, fast fashion and sweatshops. Their prices are
from around $10 and up, and brands such as H&M, Primark,
New Look and Bershka fall under this category.
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08.
/Fashion market levels/
2022
Fashion
market
Two other categories that are more accurate to me, and the brand
I’m creating. One of them is handmade fashion and the other is
made to measure/bespoke. Bespoke production was typically
more in line with haute couture, where garments were tailored by
hand, with multiple fittings and measured toils to fit the costumer
perfectly. Made to measure companies offer similar services
and the two terms have become a bit blurred, often with the
consumer not knowing the exact difference. Many brands have
gone fully online, and many claim to offer bespoke garments,
when only asking for set measurements and delivering the product
without any fittings, only with adapting some measurements
from standard sizes. These are nor besboke, and more made
to measure. Made to measure is becoming very popular, and
especially in menswear. Garments are tailored to the consumers
need, with both fabric, stitching and design. Bespoke is a very
time consuming business model with little profit and require
bigger budgets, and for example specific markets like weddings.
The other, hand made, are a totally different type of brand
model than the regular ones. These garments are not made in
factories but in fact by hand, often ranging from one person
to a group. The garments and items are usually less than 30 in
quantity, depending on the product, and are usually designed,
produced and sold by the brand, and not costumisable.
Some might also do commissioned works if requested.
These businesses are usually small scale, and focus on quality
over quantity. The prices may range, but are often higher,
considering the handmade craftsmanship, however, since
this category is so broad, the product and prices can cover
any type. These businesses are often online, and might use
online services such as Etsy or likewise to sell. Physical markets
might be another option, or events, and might expand to small
boutiques if enough stock can be produced. The products
might also be launched in drops, and might be made to order.
Bespoke/
Handmade
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08.
/Collection drop/
2022
Brand
Creating
A fashion "drop" is a limited release of products, and is also the
a modern marketing strategy originating in fashion. It is said that
"the drop" has everything brands want in today's climate; street
cred, tech-savvy, word-of-mouth, exclusive costumer experiences
and social media buzz. Drops are usually used by streetwear
fashion brands, and they first appeared in the 1980s, by sneaker
brands such as Nike and Adidas, as well as other street brands
like Stussy and Supreme. The strategy works to create hype for a
release, in limited edition, so when it's sold out it's gone for good.
The critique of drop culture might be that people miss the drops,
or are unable to buy the products at the time, and high resale
prices. It might create a stressful and unpleasant experience
for the costumer. There are other potential dangers in the drop
system, like the fact that it may trigger impulse shopping, and
making quick and hasty decisions, creating anxiety and stress.
This might lead to people buying things they don't need.
Many mainstream brands have implemented exclusive drops
to create hype; companies released limited edition celebritydesigned
collaborations and products with top fashion designers.
H&M partnered with Balmain for an exclusive collection that
sold out in minutes, Kanye West created a Yeezy line for Adidas.
Louis Vuitton launched a pop-up collaboration with Supreme.
The drop is spreading from only fashion to other industries
too, like accomondation sites, food delivery, event booking
etc. They might create similar hype with limited time offers
to drive sales and cature attention. Social media marketing is
also using the same strategy, where brands might introduce
new product through social media channels. Using "brand
ambassadors" like influencers and celebrities to introduce,
review and promote products are a huge impact to boost sales.
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08.
/Drop & made to order/
2022
Brand
Creating
Since social media now works as a consumer platform, many
small scale companies and brands are using "stock drop"
and made-to-order business models. Its said that content
might be king, but hype is currently retail's high priest.
Independent brands are often using this business model of
made-to-order, and works as a solution to overstock and waste,
but also creating a more personal and unique connection and
experience with the consumer. This business model also allows
private persons to start a business without having to invest a lot
of money to create stock, but instead only produce prototypes in
the beginning and then even have the products ship directly from
the factory. Another option is for businesses to have a limited time,
or a certain number of products until its finished, and then spend
time afterwards to create these pieces with orders on hold.
The bulk batch production and the speed of sales may as
well have a negative impact on the designer,'s wellbeing,
most certainly if it's an independent person with one or a few
employees. The workload can be unexpected and intense,
with long work hours which can result in burnout.
However the drop method might be the only right for small
companies, with a limited amount of products, where the designer
can choose how much of a workload they can take on. This model
seems very accurate for me and my brand. This would allow me to
plan ahead how many examples per product the brand can produce,
so it would be a limited edition. If the products are rather fast to
produce, they could me made-to-order, or then be combined with
a small stock, in the beginning. This however increases the risk of
overstock and waste. Therefor a drop with a set number of examples
per product would be ideal, being available until all the sloths have
been filled. Then before the drop, the only requirement would be to
produce the prototypes of the final garments and then produce in a
made-to-order way. If popularity grows this model could change.
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09.
/creating/my
fashion brand/
Creating
my brand
2022
I now have my concept and a better understanding
of what I want to create. Now I need to create the
whole brand, find a name, logo, style everything.
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09.
/Product/
2022
Brand
Creating
So, I need to figure out what my brand is selling.
To design and sew together garments is really out of my
expertise, and is rather impossible. Something simple
I could do, like a basic shirt, but even that would be
challenging. A right mesh shirt is always nice, but there
again the material is difficult to work with even though the
pattern would be simple. An option is to get my design
printed on fabric, and then let a seamstress sew it, however
I feel like this is not the smartest option since it goes so far
into fashion design, and might over complicate things.
Another option is scarves. They are rather simple,
just squares or rectangles, but if I only have one
product, I need different print designs. I could have
different shapes of scarves for different purposes.
Big scarves can also be adapted to wrap around skirts
with an additional fabric piece working as a tie belt.
Tote bags, but maybe in a more interesting design than the
normal ones, could also be an option. Here I either let my
designs get printed on fabric and then sew together the
bags, or then buy ready ones and print on them myself.
Socks would also be a fun garment to design
and produce. They can’t be that hard to make
and is overall a fun accessory/underwear.
Ps. the model in the picture is my friend called Kerkko.
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09.
/Product/
Brand
Creating
After some time thinking this through, I have made my
decision. I am going to do what I recently said I shouldn’t do.
I am going to focus on garments. I was talking to my mom
about this, she’s a seamstress and pattern-maker, so she
guided me through which way would be the smartest.
2022
First on all, I want to focus on rather simple designs, but
with interesting, clean shapes. This is an addition to the
project in my opinion, so it can’t take up too much time,
even though I know it will. My mom said I could have for
instance two more complicated garments, like a jacket and
pants, that are harder to sew, so I will have a seamstress sew
it up for me. Then the rest, like tops and maybe a skirt, with
more simple patterns, I would sew myself. The hardest part
is the pattern making. My mom would be able, together
with me, be able to help design the pieces, and then draw
up the patterns for the garments. She could then send
them from Finland to me, so after I get my printed fabrics
from the print company, I can cut up the pieces myself.
The fun part, which is like an addition, would be to create
accessories too. I would love to have a pair of socks, maybe
a hat too. With the fabric rest pieces, I could cut out strings,
that could work as extra shoelaces for details, I could even
create a harness design but instead of the typical leather, I
would use strings of the fabric. The strings could even work
as yarn, so I would be able to crochet something cool out
of it, perhaps. The problem might be that if my print is dark,
it is probably printed on white fabric, and on just one side,
so when you cut it up the white backside might dominate.
To sew “tubes” are also a bit of a struggle since you have to
invert it, but then at least the design would be on both sides,
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09.
/Target audience/
2022
Brand
Creating
Identifying and understanding your target audience
for your business plan is one of the first steps
into building an effective marketing plan.
A target audience is a specific group of consumers that are
most likely to be interested in your products or services that
you brand offers. Understanding and defining your specific
target audience helps with a more effective marketing
strategy and results in better performances and higher sales.
Defining the target audience; I can start from myself
as a consumer, and why I am creating this brand in
the first place. Cool prints and patterns are hard to
find, together with interesting design clothes.
So the main thing consumer would be, young adults, mostly
women, in the age of 18 to about 40, who are looking for
better quality, unique pieces of clothing with interesting
prints and patterns. These clothes will have attitude, will
stand out and will have a bit of a punk feel, mixed with bold
and playful designs. The garments are designed and made
in the size of a small scale business, without the ability to
commercialize and cost-effectively produce the garments
in a large scale, the price will be according to that.
The target audience will be young adults, from 20-30,
mostly women, in urban areas, who like to support hand
made businesses, and in return get quality products. They
appreciate detail, attitude, and wants to stand out. Their worst
nightmare is shopping at H&M and blending into the masses.
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09.
/Name storming/
2022
Brand
Creating
Coming up with a name for my brand is a struggle. I
would love to have a short, snappy name with a hard
accent. I would like to avoid the letter R, since in
English it’s pronounces to sofly, whereas the languages
I’m used to, Swedish and Finnish, have hard Rs.
The name should be according to the target audience,
It should be memorable and easy to pronounce and
remember, and it should be connected to the product
I visited Sevilla, and while strolling around with my
friends my mission was to write up all the interesting
words I see, both from street names, strees signs and
even tags, however the latter might have meanings
I won’t understand, but it still might spark some
inspiration. The result was a long list of only werid stuff.
I could always go with something related to my
name, Ellen Cecilia Andersin, like LN that I already
used in a previous project, Sin, end of my last name,
or a mix. But, first of all I feel like the brand is not
and shouldn’t be so connected to me as a brand.
I also thought it would be cool the have the
name in numbers, since it’s not seen often, in
fact I don’t recall ever hearing of a fashion.
Massa
Galla
Melon
Sabi
Chöke
19:99
13:99
Limeni
LN
Sin
Cesin
Apollonia
Lebona
Rumina
Rivo
Zesilia
Zilie
Another thought was to take a Latin butterfly name,
since they are pretty namn cool. I went through
probably over a hundred, while researching about
their coloration, but couldn’t find a perfect one.
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09.
/Brand name/
Brand
Creating
I was relly close to going with Massa, meaning plenty,
many, or mass in Swedish, and basically in Finnish too.
I created some logo ideas for it, but the “background
check” came with disappointment. Massa was a word
used in slavery, when talking about the slave owner.
Yeah no, I don’t want to be near that, thank you.
180º
one-eighty
2022
I was sitting on my balcony with Vilma and we started
brainstorming. She said, allright, you want to have
a head-turning effect from the print clothes you
make right? What do you say or think when you
see somebody with an amazing outfit? I though
of turning my head on the street together with a
“daaaymn”. I imagined sitting down, having a beer
and watching people walk by. Then vilma said, yeah
you basically do a 360º head turn when a cool person
walks by, and I said, no, it’s more like a one-eighty.
One-eighty, or 180º, will be the name of my brand. Now
the question is how it’s going to be spelled. The correct
version is “onehundred and eighty”, but it takes a
while to say. One-eighty sound the best, in my opinion,
but might be thought of as two sepatare numbers.
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09.
/Font testing/
2022
Brand
Creating
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
180º
180º
180º
180º
180º
180º
180º 180º
180º 180º
180º 180º
180º
180º
180º
180º
180º
180º
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eighty
one-eightyº
one-eightyº
one-eighty
180º
180º
180º
180º
180º
180
180
180º
180
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09.
/Logo sketching/
2022
Brand
Creating
Trying to come up with a logo is next
in line. I found some inspiration from
Behance, of some typoface, where the
bottom circle in the 8 was cut in half. This,
I thought, would fit my conept and brand,
since the angle of 180º, is a straight line,
and displayed as a circle cut in half.
I also went though all my fonts, in the
previous slide, and wanted to see how the
different ones, give me different vibes,
only some of them looking like “fashion”.
o
180
one-eighty
180 o
one-eighty
one-eighty
The 1 and 8 is easier to fit together, but the
8 and 0 is hard. The two rounded shapes
does not go naturally together, at least in
my head and from what I’ve tried. Unless of
course the number are more spaced out.
I tried implementing the half circle as an
icon or base for the logo but it looked a
bit awkwards, and I’m still unsure if I need
an icon. This because I would like to have
the numbers “180º” as the logo, and then
the actual spelled out name, one-eighty,
underneath, or depending on the variations.
They shoudl of course work on their own too.
Some of these tries turned out to look like
a social media platform logo or something,
with the cut off 8 looking like a person icon.
180º
one-eighty
180º
one_eighty
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09.
/Logo sketching/
2022
Brand
Creating
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09.
/Logo sketching/
Brand
Creating
I found an inspiring project, once again
on Behance, that used a mix of different
typefaces; one basic, sans serif as a base,
together with both hand drawn almost tag
style lettering together with blackletter.
one eighty
one eighty
one-eighty
2022
I decided to try this, since it definitely is the
style I’m going for; a more contemporary,
unique, modern street brand. I downloaded
and chose some fonts that I could mix.
Then I chose one basic sans serif, and also
drew letters on my iPad, to get the hand
drawn, calligraphy/script/tag letters.
one eighty
one eighty
one eighty
one-eighty
I like how they look, but it might not be
so realistic and can be pretty hard to
work with in terms of rules etc. It might
also be too specific, meaning falling
under one category, with the ransom
note feel, and might be a bit too much.
one eighty
one eighty
ONE EIGHTY
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09.
/Logo sketching/
2022
Brand
Creating
Thinking about the recent explorations
of mixing typography styles, the
calligraphy or script part reallt stuck
with me. I thought about the brand
Stussy and their logo, thats originated
from a tag, and has such a strong street
brand feel. Now, I don’t directly want to
be associated with only street, since
poeple tend to only think about hoodies
and print t-shirt, generally speaking.
However, Paul Smith and Ray Ban both
have a script lettering logo, which might
implement a more laid back life style,
and more casuality. Both of those logos
are still rather minimalistic and clean.
I started writing out one-eighty with
a script pen in Procreate, tweaking it
to make the contrast in the 45º angle,
to get the calligraphy effect. I tried
to create a mix between script and
some black letter style, and maybe
som elements of tags. But, these
might be a beet too street style.
Writing the 180º in the same style
could be interesting. It keeps the same
interesting, more unique style, but is a bit
more “clean”, or not as crouded since its
only the three letters.
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09.
/Logo sketching/
Brand
Creating
I then focused on the numbers, 180°,
to see how it would look. I thought
of maybe using a script/blackletter
number logo as main, perhaps
together with a more minimalistic
font with the name “one-eighty”.
2022
I quickly realized how damn difficult it
is to make a balanced composition with
these numbers. The question goes, how
is the eight shaped, and then how does
the 0 fit next to it. Also, does the 1 come
out of the 8, from inside the loop or does
it stand outside. Do I makeit angeled like
the pen is shapes, or straight, and, are
they all in the same line or is the 0 above?
One of the biggest questions was how
do I make the 0 interesting? Is it round or
oval, and is it completely round or does
it have angles. If it would have angles, it
would balance or fit the style of the 1.
I tried to make the 8 as the “g” I
made in the lettered “one-eighty”,
because I thought if there would be
variations, it could be interesting
to use the same elements.
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09.
/Logo sketching/
Brand
Creating
As I was struggling with the logo, and
especially the 0, I decided to ask Eugenio
from school, since I know he’s into
typography, or more tagging and black
letter. I was right, since he immediately run
and got his calligraphy pen and paper.
2022
He tried many options, as seen on the right,
and I tried it too. The pen was amazing, just
saying. He made the 0 really interesting, with a
flat top, almost like a roof. Antoine also helped,
and he drew a version with the same flat top
on the 0 but then put the ° sign on top of the
0 instead of next to it, which was pretty cool.
However, I was worried this is going to be too
street, and that my brand would be associated
with only skating clothes or similar, since the
use of black letter/ tag are not neutral at all.
I went to talk to Alberto and he said it too,
that I should go for a more nautral, geometric
logo like I did in the beginning, but that
I can try to implement some shapes or
hierarchy from the hand drawn ones.
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09.
/Logo development/
Brand
Creating
Thinking about making the logo back to
geometric, but trying to implement the
strokes from the calligraphy. I tried some
that feature the same structure and shapes
and the calligraphy but with same thickness
lines. These were interesting but not legible.
2022
I then went back to the first try i did, with
the thick and thin lines in a very geometric
composition. I like the fact that they
had contrast in the lines. The contrast is
something that is often prevalent in fashion,
both magazine typefaces and in logos. It
still looks modern, clean and neutral, but
has some personality and depth. I tried a
lot of options and spent the entire evening
to night in school trying to perfect it.
The struggle continued when I had to come
up with the text version that would go together
with the 180º, but also be able to work on its
own, and not be too boring. At first I wanted
to go a bit crazy and put the mixed font style,
but this was not realistic, and did not from
a distance. Then I tried the same concept
with having the same contrast as the logo,
in the text as well, changing the thickness.
Meh. Caps lock looks too boring, and then
I found a very good option, in lower case,
that has interesting letters on its own. The
font is called ArquitectaOffice in Bold.
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09.
/Questionnaire/
Brand
Creating
After creating the logo, I got feedback that
how the line from the 8 connects with the
0 could be better. I kind of agree, it does
look thicker in that connection compared to
the rest. However, it does not disturb me.
2022
The there is the one completely without the
thin bottom line, and while it works, the whole
point of the line was also to create the angle
of 180º, like a bowl coming down from a line.
I do think this is one of the top options.
I tried an option where the line stops
where the thick ends, like the one on top.
It looked a bit weird, and it reminds me
of the earth, like the globe, and how the
poles are tilted. I might have started at it
for too long at this point to be honest.
Then I tried one with the line only being
on the left side, and this too destroys
the point of the line-bown-line shape.
I picked my and others two favorites, the
one with full line, and completely without,
and made a questionnaire on Instagram.
The one with full line completely
destroyed the one without, and I’m not
man about it. The line makes sense for
the name, concept and everything.
Now I have a logo.
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10.
/Brand mind map/
2022
Brand
Creating
I decided to make a mind map to better
"map out" what my brand is all about. I did
the same thing for my first years branding
project, and though it couldn't hurt.
First, what is my brand? It is a small scale,
for now hand made, fashion brand. It offers
unique prints, in quality over quantity of
clothes and accessories. The brand offers the
180º effect, which means its a head turner.
the 180º effect
(head turner)
unique clothing
and accessories
bold
connected to
your true self
powerful
What it
makes you feel
self expression
Where it is
online
website
social media
The clothes and what the brand wants is
to unlock the powers of individuals, to
make people feel as powerful as possible
and connect with their true self in terms
of self expression and their bold needs.
The 180º brand will be found
online, mostly on social media like
Instagram, as well as on a website.
The brand comes off as bold,
alternative and colourful, and does not
want to blend in, that's for sure.
It is connected to slow and quality fashion,
draws inspiration from nature and wants
to be as sustainable as possible.
quality over
quantity
unique prints
different
collection drops
small scale
What it
offers
What
it is
fashion brand
hand made
180°
What it is
connected to
nature
sustainability
What it
looks like
quality fashion
slow fashion
colourful
bold
alternative
attention
seeking
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10.
/brand/manual/
Brand
Manual
2022
To showcase my brand I will go though my
brand manual but in a deconstructed way, so I
will still explain the things in a workbook way.
The design for the brand manual will look different
and will be attached together with this workbook.
The manual will include the manifesto, logo,
logo variation, colour palette, typography, logo
construction, logo proportion, logo exclusion
lines, minimum sizes, do's and don'ts, brand
elements, stationary, packaging and imagery style.
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10.
/Manifesto/
2022
Brand
Manual
The manifesto in the brand manual will explain a
bit about the brand and for what purpose it is.
The text I chose was:
One eighty° is a unique, modern, and limited edition
fashion brand, based on head turning prints, quality
over quantity, and carefully hand crafted designs.
Our motivation is to make individuals feel powerful,
to stand out from the regular and express
personality, feelings or opinions though clothing.
Guaranteed 180° (head turning) effect.
One eighty° was founded by graphic
design student Ellen, who uses her many
artistic interests to carefully hand craft
and design one-of-a-kind garments.
Our collections will each be produced by
local professionals, and will always have
an interesting topic of inspiration. Await
the unexpected. Join our journey!
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10.
/Logo/Logo variation/
Brand
Manual
The one eighty° logo is inspired by the angle
of 180°. The cut of 8 creates a half circle and is
therefore also symbolizing the rotation of the angle.
The numeral logo is combined with the spelled
out name, which is instead of one-hundred-andeighty-degrees,
is as catchy as one eighty.
2022
The name itself got its meaning from the action of
a head turn; when somebody is looking so good
it is impossible not to take a second glance.
The logo can also be used as the two elements
as separate. The numeral one can be used on its
own, for instance in smaller spaces of when the
text is not needed. The spelled out logo again
works where the symbol is not needed. It could
also be better for smaller spaces as long as it
is legible. The tittle of the i is made bigger, and
the ° is modified so the two are in balance.
Obs, notice how the spelled out logo gets the
degree (°) icon when not being next to the numeral
logo. The exception being when the numeral
one is blown up compared to the text one.
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10.
/Colour Palette/
Brand
Manual
The colour palette for one eighty° is mainly
black and white by default. We let the
images do the talking, brining colourful
elements in, and letting the bold black
and white brand work as a contrast.
2022
We focus on dark backgrounds with light
elements, creating a visually interesting
tension of the unknown darkness. Most of our
materials will be black with white elements.
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10.
/Typography/
2022
Brand
Manual
The typography of one eighty° consists of two
similar fonts; Brandon Grotesque and Casper
Display. The cap height of Brandon in capital
letters is higher than in Casper, and matches
the small letters of Brandon. We therefore
use Brandon Grotesque for body text, and
Casper Display for headlines in all caps.
The logo itself has one eighty
written in Brandon Grotesque.
HEADLINES
CASPER DISPLAY (CAPSLOCK)
SEMIBOLD
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
§1234567890,.;:-_’¨´+!”#€%&/()=?°
Body text
Brandon Grotesque
Medium
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz
§1234567890,.;:-_’¨´+!”#€%&/()=?°
LIGHT
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
§1234567890,.;:-_’¨´+!”#€%&/()=?°
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10.
/Logo construction & proportion/
Brand
Manual
The logo is constructed from circles,
together with straight lines to form the 1. The
circles are different sizes, except the one
forming the round part of the 1, which is the
same size as the bottom circle of the 8.
2022
The top of the 8 and 0 reaches a bit over the
cap height of the 1, to make it a visually balanced
composition. The 0 has a slighty lower height
than the 8, to not make it too heavy on one end.
The text is added underneath, spread apart
so it fits nicely on both sides of the bottom
8. These measurements are not perfectly
symmetrical but are instead adjusted
so that they are visually balanced.
one
eighty
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10.
/Minimum logo sizes/
2022
Brand
Manual
The minimum sizes are divided into the four
different versions. The biggest one, is the
"blown-up" 180° that is paired with the text
logo but only on the right side. This one is
only used in big places where the text would
be almost too big to use the second option.
The minimum size for this one is 48mm
since the text gets too small otherwise.
The main "default" logo's minimum size is
half the size of the former one, so 24mm.
Then when it gets smaller, the logo using
only text is used, and later when that is so
small it's not readable anymore, what's left
is the logo with only the number 180°.
48mm / 240px 24mm / 120px 16mm / 60px 8mm / 30px
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10.
/Brand elements/
2022
Brand
Manual
I created brand elements in the form of
logo patterns. This is very common in
fashion brands, and is usually a big seller
working as a print for the garments.
The one eighty logo pattern would be
used as a brand element and as material
for additional marketing elements.
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10.
/Stationary/
Brand
Manual
This information card works as an example
of how stationary could look. These cards
with contacts could appear together with
your order, or be given out as marketing.
2022
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10.
/Packaging/
2022
Brand
Manual
The packaging of the products will be essential
and very important for the brand. The products
will be made to order and fully online, the
packaging of the orders pay a big part.
When you order cheaper clothes online, they
mostly come in plastic bags. I thought it would be
nice to have the products shipped in nice design
boxes, together will handcrafted elements such
as nice wrapping paper and cotton thread.
The wrapping paper would feature the logo
pattern in both black and white in different
sizes to create contrast and balance.
The boxes would come in both black and white
as well, with a bold, blown up logo so high light
the interesting geometric shapes of the logo.
The black and white exterior would stand out
nicely to the colourful garments inside.
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11.
/print/creating
/process/
Introduction
2022
After creating the brand, the time has come to
design my print. The goal is to have three final
prints to get printed or print myself; that depends
on the design and what works best with it.
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11.
/Bug stripes/
Concept
I started my print making process by looking at cool
insect in fantastic colouts, like these bugs. I wanted
to make an abstract version of their use of colours
and patterns. I decided an easy way of doing that
would be by making stripes with their colours.
2022
I created the stripes on procreate, trying
different brushes and styles.
My inspiration for these are still the phenomenon
of aposematism, mixed with the phychology
of how we dress, punk and feminism.
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11.
/Metamorpha Elissa/
2022
Concept
After creating the stripes, I went more into
looking at more exact patterns of butterflies,
and how they use their patterns and for what
purposes. The Metamorpha Elissa butterfly
has a beautiful pattern of orange branchlike
networks and I tried to mimic that onto
a flat surface. I decided to skip the brown
"filling" and only use the beige background.
I added some blue tones and other colours
to make it more interesting and also tried
different grain, glitch and blur effects.
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11.
/Lyropteryx Apollonia/
Concept
The Lyropteryx Apollonia butterfly is
absolutely stunning with its black and blue
stripes together with small pink dots.
This I turned into a fully striped design and
adding some symmetrical pink dots.
2022
I really liked the striped effect and thought
it could look cool on clothes.
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11.
/Dryaldula Phaetusa/
Concept
Dryaldula Phaetusa is a butterfly with amazing
red and black stripes or long spots.
I took a bit more freedom and made shorter
sports of red with more textured brushes. I
also tried adding small dots in between the
spots to add more interesting elements.
2022
I really liked this one and how it could
potentially work as a print.
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11.
/Chysina Beyeri/
2022
Concept
The Chysina Beyeri is an insect with a green
body and purple legs, and the colour
combination really spoke to me. I found other
bugs that used the same colour combination.
I decided to make this one into another
striped pattern based on the insect
with the purple line in the middle.
This pattern became one of my favorites
so far and I thought it could look super
cool on a pair of trousers for example.
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11.
/Parthenos Sylvia/
Concept
For this butterfly, the Parthenos Sylvia, I took
a different direction just for fun, to try to go
towards making a tartan. I didn't want my
final prints to just be a copy or a try of a more
traditional print, but I still wanted to try.
2022
I used the same colours from the butterfly which
were beautiful, ranging from blue to light green.
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11.
/Sketching/
2022
Concept
I drew these sketches and illustrations
on procreate to get a feel of drawing
clothes and body shapes, but also of
course to “try out” how the patterns
would look on clothing. Also what kind
of garments I would like to create, but
of course I have to be realistic with my
skills and the drawings are not that.
The main goal was honetly inspiration
and just to get ideas flowing my
drawing, and it was fun.
Judging it by fashion illustration I much
prefer the orange “quick” sketch without
a face, I feels more professional. The
other two are more “try-hard”, the poses
are stiff and are similar to the ready,
posed dolls you just draw clothes on.
I spend more time though on the
potential garments and applying
the patterns I already created.
I want to take everything to the next
level from here, I am not pleased yet.
The question is how, and what. Many
question marks and a lot of stress.
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11.
/Stripes/
2022
Concept
I have decided after some doubt and
thinking, to dedicate my print to stripes.
In my head I thought it wasn’t enough,
and it needed to be a more complex
print for it to be good enough. My
intuition mixed with some wise words
from my mom “keep it simple”, made
me decide to focus on stripes.
Stripes are all over fashion, but all over
nature too. Stipes can be so sexy, they
are exptremely versatile, and function for
an insanely wide range and many ways.
Thickness, hierarchy and colours are
crucial elements in designing stripes. As I
already learned, when reading about stripes
earlier, there are so many different ones,
based on how you place all the elements.
My goal would be to have three different
versions. maybe varying in size and colour,
but still belong together, so I can use
them together in outfits and garments.
Each three designs would have slightly
different colours, and one could be really
thin stripes, another would be medium
sized in sections, with a background
colour, and the third could be blown up,
one thick stripe pattern, like someone took
a huge brush and painted a thich line.
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11.
/Stripes in animals/
Concept
Stripes are everywhere, and it almost feels like
they are made to be seen. They are the ideal
example of natural warning colourations, and
have many functions in the animal world.
The stripes in nature comes in infinite different
versions, thicknesses, colours and designs.
2022
Stripes show attitude, boldness and
beauty all at the same time, the perfect
mix for my brand and print designs.
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11.
/Making Stripes/
2022
Concept
I decided to get my oil paints and do
something analogue instead of using the
iPad. I knew it might be messy and would
lead to disappointment, which it did at first,
but I told myslef not to give up so quick. I
found that using a brush was no-go, and cut
up a kitchen sponge instead. I then placed
colour combinations on this small rectangular
sponge and dragged it on the paper. The
result was stripes, in different combinations
and with living colours and textures, which
you won’t get from the digital tool.
When mixing and combining the colours
I kept in mind the animals, bugs and
butterflies, their colours and combinations.
I made stripes because they are basically the
easiest patterns to make, but also since it’s
used so widely by animals and insects too.
Another big influence, especially when
adding black, is that i wanted to have a slight
punk feel to my stripes. I’m stinking thin
striped pants in cool colours. Black, yellow,
pink, or red; I’m thinking grunge colours
and which would look good on clothing.
Luckily the natural warning colours and
punk/grunge have some similarities. ;)
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2022
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11.
/Stripe swatches/
2022
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11.
/Clean up/
2022
Concept
After three long sessions of dragging paint
on paper with a sponge, to create stripes, I
had to decide which ones are worth working
with. Most of them were pretty cool...
I scanned them and put them into Procreate,
where I had to clean them up. The raw
versions had a lot of imperfections, and to
work as a print I wanted to make them even.
With the clone tool in the program, I cleaned
them up to create more even outcomes.
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11.
/Clean up/
2022
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11.
/Combination/
Concept
After having a loooooot of swatches, I
needed to figure out how I use them.
I wanted to make them more symmetrical,
like bilateral symmetry in animals, so that
if it was placed on an insect it would be
symmetrical on each side of the middle.
2022
I then had to decide If I use them as
they are in terms of colours, or if I try
to combine them together to create
more colour combinations etc.
I tried probably hundreds of different options.
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12.
/final/print
/fabrics/
Introduction
2022
After an insane long process of making stripes
and mixing and matching, I am finally happy to
show you the final three designs for my fabrics.
This section will also include the
plan of making the garments.
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12.
/Stripe 1/
2022
Final
Stripes
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12.
/Stripe 1/
2022
Final
Stripes
/Actual stripe size/
/Proportions/
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12.
/Stripe 2/
2022
Final
Stripes
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12.
/Stripe 2/
2022
Final
Stripes
/Actual stripe size/
/Proportions/
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12.
/Stripe 3/
2022
Final
Stripes
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12.
/Stripe 3/
2022
Final
Stripes
/Actual stripe size/
/Proportions/
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2022
/caterpillar chaos/
/sting stripe/
/wasp warning/
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wasp warning/
/caterpillar chaos/
2022
/sting stripe/
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12.
/Garment planning/
Plan
These two, the pants and skirt, would
be my 2 basic pieces and then I would
try to sew some shirt or top.
I asked my mom to make technical
drawings of the garments so that
the pieces are understandable.
2022
We decided together that they might
be a bit complicated for me to sew,
and that I should find a seamstress that
could possibly sew them for me.
I asked Tannaz in fashion if she had any
contacts, and she did. She sent me a few
numbers and the first one I contacted agreed.
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2022
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12.
/Print drawing/
Stripes
After doing some sketches of possible
garmets and pattern combinations, I took
the technical drawings my mom made and
put the prints in them, the reasom being to
make it understandable for the seamstress.
2022
She needs to know which piece has which
print and in which direction the stripes go.
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12.
/Digital printing/
Stripes
I had decided a while ago that I was
going to actually get the fabrics printed.
I asked the fashion department and they
recommended a company located in
Granada, about two hours away, that prints
on fabrics and ships them to Monda.
2022
There was a lot of planning. First, I planned
multiple times with my mom which
actual fabrics I was going to order, and
which works best for the garments.
The mutual decision was heavy cotton twill,
which is a rather thick cotton fabric, working
perfectly for pants etc. I also planned with
my mom how much fabric I needed, and
we decided to take two meters times the
150cm width, of each of the three designs.
I ordered my prints online, having to exactly
calculate how big I wanted the stripes to be
and then make sure the file was equal to that.
They printed them already on the first day,
also because I payed extra for them to be
fast, but the post office was struggling hard.
It took 5 days for them to ship it to Monda
even though I here too payed extra for the
shipment to last a maximum of 12-24 hours.
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13.
/process/making
of/sewing/
2022
garments/
Introduction
Now the time has come to actually
bring the printed fabrics into life.
Exciting!
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13.
/Printed fabrics/
Fabrics
After a long wait and some struggles,
my fabrics finally came.
I was happy with the colours and the
quality, and most of all excited to
make everything come to life.
2022
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13.
/Process/
Process
When I finally had the fabrics, I needed
to get them to the seamstress.
My mom at home in Finland, is a professional
pattern cutter, which means the 2D "plans"
and drawings of the pieces you cut out
from the fabric that will form into 3D.
2022
She was amazing and did the patterns
for my pants and the skirt. Over the
phone multiple times she got my
measurements and drew the patterns.
She then shipped them to me in the mail.
Then I made sure I had all the pieces that
the seamstress needed. I cut out enough
fabric for the seamstress with the print plan,
and put everything in a "goodie bag" for
her. I left fabric for me too at home so that
I could make something out of the rest.
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13.
/Process/
2022
Process
I got to borrow a sowing machine form a
classmate who's old roommate was in fashion
and had left behind his sewing machine.
This was amazing for me, so I wasn't limited to
work in school, plus the best, I wouldn't have
to occupy a space in the fashion department.
This also meant I could learn on my own, in my
own tempo at home, and even work nights.
I had not touched a sewing machine since
I was 14 in school, but still was eager to
make some tops, just by trying my best.
I watched some basic tutorials of how
to use the machine, and then got some
help from my mom some basic tips
of sewing and making garments.
What also helped was that my mom sent
together with the patterns, also a lot of sewing
stuff, so I didn't have to buy everything new.
I started the process with making
the first shirt, freestyling a bit...
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13.
/Process/
Process
Next up was making a vest. I found a
piece in my closet, but only copied the
pattern of the back and side piece, so it
was going to be an open vest, with strings
in the front so it can be tied however.
2022
This one was incredibly fun to make, and I
really let the creativity flow. I also decided to
make it two sided, so that it can be turned
inside out with two different patterns.
I worked 16 hours straight in one day on this one.
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2022
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14.
/final/garments/
Introduction
2022
Now it is time to introduce my final garments,
after a few days of sewing myself and while
the seamstress was doing her magic.
I also gave them fun names that match the theme.
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14.
/Beetle Business/
2022
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14.
/Bug Butter/
2022
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14.
/Two Tone Trauma/
2022
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14.
/Double Dragon Drama/
2022
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15.
/product/
photoshoot/
Introduction
2022
Now that I have the garments, I had three different
kinds of photo shoots. Product photoshoor, actual
photo and video shoot and then detail photoshoot.
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15.
/Location/
Process
I wsa going to have a real photoshoor with
my friends Anja and Emma as models,
and my friend Audrey took the pictures.
She is super talanded and was even able
to use her drone to create cool videos.
2022
I drove around Monda to find a location
for my photoshoot and I found the
coolest place under the big bridge.
When I came back to my car it
was surrounded by hundreds of
sheep, which was pretty funny.
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15.
/BTS/
Process
The photoshoot day came, and my vision
was to do it just as it is getting dark. We
took some drone videos over monda as
the sun was setting, indicating that it is
getting dark; expect the unexpected.
2022
The images and rest of video from the
ground will be in almost pitch black, with
flash and the light of a car to brighter
the popping colours in high contrast.
The though here is to represent the night,
where insticts come to life and parts that has
been hiding during the daylight creep out.
This is the time to live, to feel and to explore.
Almost like insects living in the dark.
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15.
/Outcome/
2022
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15.
/Stripe detail/
Process
Additionally, I took some close up pictures
of the stripes used in the garments. These
create cool close ups of the colour world of
the anctual print and how playful it can be.
2022
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15.
/Video/
Process
My vision for the video was that it starts
with Monda, sun is setting, then the
bridge can be seen, hinting of the
location. To build tension the drone
could fly in between the bridge.
2022
Then the girls are seen underneath
the bridge, with close up shots of
popping colours, maybe some
visual effects on the video too.
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2022
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15.
/Gifs/
Process
From the video material, I created shorter
versions that could work as Instagram
material, like stories, or even Tiktoks. I
also made gifs of the clips, and put an fish
eye effect on so that it makes the close
up perspective even more powerful.
2022
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15.
/Instagram/
2022
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15.
/Posters/
Process
I also made some advertising
posters. All of this marketing material
is using both the logo, the bar
Stripe collection logo together with
the "drop May 13th" headline.
2022
The posters could be targeted
in certain areas or cities.
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2022/THANK YOU!/
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00. /textiles/sources
Fabric printing
patterns
Kente Cloth
2022
Jaquard
https://www.stjohnknits.com/style-edit/
fabric-101-what-is-jacquard-fabric
https://fabricsight.com/collections/knitted-jacquard
Textiles
https://www.customplanet.co.uk/what-isscreen-printing-a-step-by-step-guide
https://craftatlas.co/crafts/block-printing
https://www.designprintdigital.com/blog/what-is/
what-is-print-series-what-is-screen-printing/
https://ctnbee.com/blog/en/fabric-printingmethods-printing-technology-choose/
https://www.britannica.com/topic/textile/Printing
https://blog.patra.com/2014/04/22/granddesigns-fabric-printing-through-the-ages/
https://www.wheretraveler.com/shop/travelingcloth-beautiful-textiles-around-world
https://matadornetwork.com/read/9-
textile-designs-around-world/
https://londonrunway.co.uk/2020/11/02/textiletraditions-from-around-the-world/
https://www.onekingslane.com/live-lovehome/global-textiles-guide/
https://www.perinoyarns.com/traditionaltextiles-influence-fashion/
https://abacaxi-nyc.com/textiles
https://patternbank.com/trends/spring-summer-
2022-catwalk-print-pattern-trend-report
https://www.mattybovan.com/ss22
https://londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers/matty-bovan
https://patternbank.com/trends
pattern in brands
https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/16756/
la-storia-dei-pattern-piu-iconici
print brands
https://www.doopsdesigns.com/
https://www.africancelebs.com/types-ofkente-cloth-in-ghana-and-origin/
https://www.khanacademy.org/humanities/
art-africa/west-africa/ghana/a/kente-cloth
https://www.sankofaedition.com/blogs/knowsankofa/why-is-kente-cloth-so-special
http://www.webexhibits.org/
colorart/african-kente.html
https://www.contemporary-africanart.com/kente-cloth.html
https://www.moma.org/audio/playlist/43/696
https://www.housebeautiful.com/designinspiration/a33670853/what-is-kente-cloth/
Yuzen
https://japanobjects.com/features/yuzen-kimono
https://kaname-inn.com/ideas/
kimono-silk-kaga-yuzen/
http://www.kagayuzen.or.jp/know_en/
https://savvytokyo.com/kaga-yuzen-experiencinga-traditional-silk-dyeing-technique-in-kanazawa/
https://magnifissance.com/arts/japanesearts/the-silk-perfection-of-yuzen/
alcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.
cgi?article=1474&context=tsaconf
https://visitkanazawa.jp/bestofkanazawa/craft/2
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Kuba
https://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandso
da/2018/10/20/658101128/a-great-africankingdom-tells-its-history-in-fabulousroyal-clothes?t=1645483837390
https://www.housebeautiful.com/designinspiration/a34304694/what-is-kuba-cloth/
https://www.contemporary-africanart.com/kuba-cloth.html
Paisley
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20151021-
paisley-behind-rocks-favourite-fashion
https://www.paisleypower.com/history-of-paisley
https://houseappeal.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/
the-traditional-botanical-motif-of-paisley/
https://www.wheretraveler.com/shop/travelingcloth-beautiful-textiles-around-world
Ikat
https://www.indoindians.com/the-storyof-ikat-the-ties-that-bind-and-weaveinto-a-beautiful-fuzzy-tapestry/
https://www.alesouk.com/properties-ofikat-fabric-its-production-features/
https://www.housebeautiful.com/designinspiration/a34545471/what-is-ikat/
00. /textile/pattern/sources
Tartan
https://www.scottishtartansmuseum.
org/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_
id=170857&module_id=290899
https://www.britannica.com/art/tartan-textile-design
https://matadornetwork.com/read/9-
textile-designs-around-world/
https://www.cntraveler.com/galleries/2015-06-10/
beautiful-textiles-around-the-world-tartan-kente
https://tissura.com/articles/tartan-fabric-guide
https://therake.com/stories/style/
style-101-history-of-tartan/
Otomi
https://www.inspirationsstudios.
com/otomi-embroidery/
https://www.housebeautiful.com/design-inspiration/
a36676292/otomi-embroidery-mexico/
https://www.otomimexico.com/
single-post/otomi-embroidery
https://www.inspirationsstudios.
com/otomi-embroidery/
https://www.atlantamagazine.com/homeandgarden/
things-know-otomi-embroidery/
https://craftatlas.co/crafts/otomi
https://wondrouspaths.com/historyotomi-embroidery-patterns/
https://www.artedemitierra.net/working-with-aidiacd
https://www.designpoolpatterns.com/
ikat-definition-history-design/
https://flextiles.wordpress.com/2013/03/18/
double-ikat-weaving/
Pattern layouts
https://sewguide.com/fabric-design-pattern-repeat/
https://patternanddesign.com/7-mostcommon-surface-pattern-repeats/
Stripes
https://www.lofficielusa.com/beauty/
history-of-stripes-in-fashion
https://blog.treasurie.com/stripe-patterns/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Devil%27s_Cloth
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripe_(pattern)
https://theconceptwardrobe.com/
build-a-wardrobe/patterns
Checks
https://www.yesstyle.com/blog/2018-10-
03/9-popular-check-patterns-you-shouldknow-trendspotting/?doing_wp_cron=16
49161959.0968339443206787109375
https://blog.treasurie.com/checkered-pattern/
https://sewguide.com/checkered-pattern/
Textile designers
https://www.findcourses.co.uk/inspiration/
hobby-fun-leisure-articles/7-textiledesigners-who-changed-the-world-17402
https://www.laurenlesley.com/blog/
famous-textile-designers
https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/
textile-designers-instagram-263305

00. /cultural appropration/sources/
2022
Cultural approptiation
- https://thesewcialists.com/2020/10/09/textiles-of-theworld-the-line-between-appreciation-and-appropriation/
- https://www.fashionrevolution.org/notpublicdomainindigenous-communities-combat-cultural-appropriationwith-traditional-textile-design-database/
- https://www.culturalintellectualproperty.com/
- https://www.taeclaos.org/what-do-you-need-toknow-about-cultural-intellectual-property/
- https://hashtaglegend.com/culture/timelinerecent-cultural-appropriation-fashion/
- https://www.bbc.com/news/newsbeat-46297329
- https://shilpaahuja.com/cultural-appropriation-in-fashion/
3C’s Rule
https://www.culturalintellectualproperty.com/the-3cs
Max Mara x Oma
https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/a3xyx4/
carolina-herrera-accused-of-culturalappropriation-by-the-mexican-government
https://ecowarriorprincess.net/2021/01/fashionhas-a-cultural-appropriation-problem-2/
https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/mexico-zaraanthropologie-cultural-appropriation/index.html
https://nuvomagazine.com/culture/on-appropriationwith-indigenous-artist-jaad-kuujus
https://www.thedailybeast.com/fashion-has-a-big-problemwith-cultural-appropriation-but-not-yet-a-solution
https://medium.com/illuminations-mirror/howto-stop-cultural-appropriation-of-indigenoustextiles-and-regalia-7e11a7e6d085
https://www.eluniversal.com.mx/english/whatcultural-appropriation-and-why-it-unethical
https://www.britannica.com/story/whatis-cultural-appropriation
Definitions
https://www.oed.com/oed2/00010966
Otomi x Carolina Herrera
https://www.fashionrevolution.org/givecredit-thecultural-appropriation-of-otomi-embroidery/
https://www.taeclaos.org/oma/
https://www.taeclaos.org/the-story-oma-vs-max-mara/
Tom Ford x Romanian Blouse 2011
Dior x Bihor 2018
Valentino x racial plagiarism
http://comm396-s16.ascjclass.org/2021/03/28/racialplagiarism-done-by-italian-fashion-house-valentino/
https://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/649581-
valentinos-african-inspired-spring-2016-show/#/slide/1
https://www.huffpost.com/archive/ca/entry/
valentino-cultural-appropriation_n_9009840
Youtube
Ted Talk “Cultural Fashion: Tranform the
Fashion Industry From Villain to Hero”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twHCsVPupXo&ab_
channel=TEDxTalks
Stella McCartney x Ankara Print
https://www.huffpost.com/entry/stella-mccartney-culturalappropriation_n_59d62f70e4b0becae802b7d0
Google Scholar articles
James O. Young, 2010, Cultural Appropriation and the
Arts, Blackwell Publishing Ltd. (hardback 2008)
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00. /brand/sources
2022
Contemporary brand
https://www.domestika.org/en/blog/6077-15-
contemporary-designers-working-with-prints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sE3jKnijU5I&ab_
channel=BlissFoster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjj_
q08uZUg&ab_channel=BlissFoster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2LgPuni08w&t=2s&ab_
channel=BlissFoster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgDLUroviVE&ab_
channel=BlissFoster
brands
Amber day
http://www.amber-day.com/sucre-paper/
joiqpt6p9xelchnmzdemyrix384uiu
http://collectiftextile.com/amber-day/
https://jordanarthursmith.com/
https://www.ottolinger.com/
https://botter.world/collections/all
https://knwls.com/
https://www.robertwun.com/
https://www.mowalola.com/
https://missohee.com/
Alexandra Sipa
https://alexandrasipa.com/
Rave Review
https://www.rave-review.com/
https://metalmagazine.eu/en/post/interview/ravereview-the-future-of-sustainable-fashion-is-now
Knitwrth
https://www.knitwrth.com/
https://www.instagram.com/knitwrth/?hl=fi
https://www.chicagomag.com/chicago-magazine/
january-2022/knitwrths-fresh-take-on-chicago-streetwear/
Paynestar
https://paynestar.com/shop
CONCEPT
Aposematism
https://www.ssense.com/en-us/editorial/
fashion/aposematism-fashions-antisocialadaptations?clickref=1101liWUx66R&utm_
source=PH_305950&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_
content=0&utm_term=&utm_campaign=
https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.2133521100
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/
medicine-and-dentistry/aposematism
https://fashionmagazine.com/style/
aposematism-fall-fashion/
https://mabelthefashionmuse.com/nature-in-fashion
https://www.amnh.org/explore/news-blogs/newsposts/warning-aposematism-explained
https://www.britannica.com/science/aposematism
Fashion market levels
http://www.createafashionbrand.com/themany-market-levels-of-fashion-brands/
https://blog.seams.fashion/7-marketlevels-in-the-fashion-industry/
https://cenjblog.wordpress.com/2017/11/29/021/
Drop culture and made to order
https://www.dictionary.com/e/fashion/drop-culture/
https://blog.coremedia.com/blog/the-businessof-hype-how-to-master-the-drop
https://www.shopify.com/retail/limited-drops
https://digiday.com/marketing/supreme-envy-dropmodel-gets-used-burgers-tacos-toothbrushes/
https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/madeto-order-fashion-explained
https://www.forbes.com/sites/katiebaron/2018/10/29/
digging-into-drop-culture-evolving-abooming-retail-ritual/?sh=11a5e19f77d8
https://fashionista.com/2017/06/drop-culturepsychology-shopping-consumer-behavior
https://eco-age.com/resources/sustainablestock-drops-change-consumer-habits/
Fashion marketing
https://sixads.net/marketing-guides/clothing/
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