Winter 2022

FREE
The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 32
ISSN 2754-6799
Winter
Wonderland
destinations
From the twinkling town of
Annecy to the charms of
the French Riviera
The biggest
Yule Log cake
in the world!
A slice of heaven
in Antibes
Paris in
Winter
The sparkling city of light
Magazine
CHRISTMAS
PUDDING
The French connection
Spotlight
on Rouen
Delicious recipes
to bring a taste of
France to your home
120 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos

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Bonjour and bienvenue to The Good Life France Magazine
Winter 2022.
This issue is a real treat – scrumptious recipes, great giveaways
and fabulous features galore.
Dive right in to discover some of France’s most magical
winter wonderland destinations. If you’re a lover of bûche de
Noël, the famous French Christmas yule log cake, you’ll love
reading about the annual biggest bûche de Noël in the world
event in lovely Antibes on the French Riviera, and of course
we’re sharing a recipe! And on the subject of cakes – discover
the French connection when it comes to the great British
Christmas pudding – yes really!
Paris lovers will adore our winter in Paris photo essay -
when it snows, the city of light really does sparkle. And
follow in Napoleon’s footsteps in Paris to find his legacy is
clearly still there.
Head to the sweet village of Flavigny in Burgundy where the
film Chocolat was filmed and to Rouen, packed with medieval
history alongside a buzzing contemporary vibe, it’s an ideal
city break. Discover the treasures of the Ardèche region and of
the Côtes du Rhône - home to some of the steepest vineyards
in France. Go gaga for gorgeous Gascony and feel festive at
the colourful Christmas market of Metz, Lorraine.
Enjoy a taste of Toulouse with some of the city’s traditional
favourite foods, and discover the best feel good films about
France. And don’t forget to enter our great give-away contests
– you’ve got to be in it to win it!
And there’s a whole lot more – far too much to mention here.
I hope you enjoy reading this issue, shared with you with love
and best wishes,
Janine
Janine Marsh
Editor
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The Good Life France | 3

ISSN 2754-6799
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CONTENTS
The Good Life France Magazine
No. 32 Winter 2022
ISSN 2754-6799
The magazine is free to read, download and share
Contributors
8
ON THE COVER
8 France’s Winter Wonderland
destinations
From the twinkling town of
Annecy to charms of Provence,
Winter is a great time to visit
France.
Colin Taylor writes about
French agriculture, gastronomy,
history and language. His new
book Menu from the Midi: A
gastronomic journey through
the South of France reveals
the history and production of
some of France’s most famous
foodstuffs.
colinduncantaylor.com
Gillian Thornton is an
award-winning travel writer
and member of the British
Guild of Travel Writers,
specialising in French
destinations and lifestyle.
Her favourite place? ‘Usually
where I have just been!’
Katja Gaskell is a freelance
journalist, family travel blogger
and Francophile. Her work has
appeared in The Telegraph,
Wanderlust Magazine, the
Mail on Sunday, and The
Independent among others.
Globetotting.com
Ally Mitchell is a freelance
writer, specialising in food
and recipes. Ally left the UK
to live in Toulouse in 2021 and
now writes about her new life
in France on her food blog
NigellaEatsEverything
Jeremy Flint is an awardwinning
photographer
(Association of Photographers
Discovery Award Winner,
National Geographic Traveller
Grand Prize Winner, five-times
finalist Travel Photographer of
the Year) and writer specialising
in travel, landscape and location
photography.
66
18 The biggest Yule Log cake in
the world!
Head to Antibes in southern
France to discover a slice of
heaven.
24 Christmas pudding – the
French connection
Who’d have thought this great
British classic had French
connections!
Chantille de Lincourt is a
writer and photographer who
specialises in small villages
and French heritage. Find out
more on her blog
villagesetpatrimoine.fr
Marian Jones is a former
teacher of French now
travel writer with a podcast
– City Breaks, bringing
listeners and readers the
background history and
culture which will inform
their travels in l’Hexagone.
citybreakspodcast.co.uk
FREE
Sue Aran is a writer,
photographer, and tour guide
living in the Gers department
of southwest France. She is
the owner of French Country
Adventures, which provides
personally-guided, smallgroup,
slow travel tours into
Gascony, the Pays Basque,
Provence and beyond.
Amy McPherson is a London
based travel writer whose work
has been featured in many
international publications. When
not on assignment, she loves
to ride her bike, go running
along the river Thames, or
relax with her cat on her lap.
footprintsandmemories.com
Kit Smyth i is a retired chef
with a passion for French
cuisine. Kit is dedicated to
developing recipes for home
cooks to enjoy, she also
teaches cookery online and
in-person. Find out more at
her website: TheBiteLine
42 Spotlight on Rouen
Packed with medieval
history but with a buzzing
contemporary vibe,
Normandy’s regional capital
makes for an ideal city break.
50 The sweet village of Flavigny
The captivating medieval
village where they make famous
aniseed sweets.
The
Good Life France
ISSUE Nọ 32
Winter
Wonderland
destinations
From the twinkling town of
Annecy to the charms of
the French Riviera
The biggest
Yule Log cake
in the world!
A slice of heaven
in Antibes
Paris in
Winter
The sparkling city of light
CHRISTMAS
PUDDING
The French connection
Spotlight
on Rouen
Delicious recipes
to bring a taste of
France to your home
Magazine
120 pages
of inspirational
features and
gorgeous photos
The Good Life France Magazine
Front Cover: Nice, French Riviera Winter wonderland destination
Editor-in-chief: Janine Marsh
Editorial assistant: Trudy Watkins
Press enquiries: editor (at) the Good Life France.com
Advertising: sales (at) the Good Life France.com
Digital support: websitesthatwork.com
Layout design: Philippa French littlefrogdesign.co.uk
ISSN 2754-6799 Issue 32 Winter 2022, released December 2022
18
66 Paris in Winter
A renowned Paris photographer
shares “his” Paris, sparkling in
her winter coat.
DISCOVER
30 Be amazed by Ardèche
Ardèche’s tumbling rivers,
prehistoric caves and ancient
villages.
4 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 5

36 Côtes du Rhône
The treasures of the Rhône
Valley from some of the steepest
vineyards in France to some of its
most enchanting villages.
54 Petite Guide to Gascony
26 reasons to fall in love with
Gorgeous Gascony.
58 The Genius from the Jura
Remembering Louis Pasteur in
the 200th anniversary year of
his birth.
62 Baubles, bubbles and bells
Metz Christmas market is
marvellous!
REGULARS
94 What’s New
All the news and events you need
for your next trip to France.
96 Your Photos
Featuring the most beautiful
photos shared on our Facebook
page.
98 Tours de France
The very best of France for your
tours and holidays.
102 French language lesson
Winter feel-good films that help
you learn French!
118 Last word
Life in rural France.
42
70 The most unusual walk in
France
An extraordinary hike in the
mountains where the sound of
music echoes.
96
GUIDES
90 The lure of the Seine
Joanna Leggett explores the
beautiful towns and ports of the
River Seine.
74 The oldest sparkling wine in
the world
Limoux’s historic carnival and
sips an ancient effervescent wine.
86 Walking in Napoleon’s
footsteps in Paris
On the trail of Napoleon’s legacy
in the city of light.
NEW SERIES
78 Hidden gems of France:
Pays de Gex
One of France’s smallest
departments has big allure.
BON APPÉTIT
23 Bûche de Noël
28 Christmas pudding recipe
111 Snow eggs
Meringues and crème anglaise –
irresistible!
112 Hazelnut puree
113 Chestnut puree
How to make a classic French
chestnut puree for cakes, sauces
and ice cream.
114 Festive eclairs
Kit Smyth’s colourful and delicious
eclairs are perfect year-round!
50
82 A taste of France - Toulouse
Ally Mitchell takes you on a tasty
tour of Toulouse’s gut-busting
favourite foods.
90 SPECIAL
Give-aways and great
Christmas gifts.
111
116 Goats cheese wreath
A delicious vegetable and cheese
pastry from Miss Maggie’s Kitchen
4 Subscribe to The Good Life
France Magazine
Everything you want to know
about France and more.
6 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 7

Winter
WONDERLAND
France
Winter in France has charm by the bucketload, from snow-capped mountains
perfect for skiers to Christmas markets, and even fun in the sun.
Le Grand Bornand © T. Vattard Le Grand-Bornand
Mountain high
Annecy © Olivier Puthon
Haute-Savoie –
snowy sojourns
Landscapes that look like they are straight
from fairy-tale Narnia. And the twinkling lights
of enchanting mountain villages in a sea of
snow. Horse and carriage rides snuggled under
a blanket. Robust and rustic alpine delights like
tartiflette and raclette, fondue and Reblochon
pie. We’re talking Haute-Savoie in winter.
With trains taking from just 3 hours 40
minutes from Paris to Annecy, a mountain
break is hard to resist.
The city of Annecy, nicknamed the Venice of
the Alps for its pretty canals, watery arteries
that criss-cross the city, is gorgeous year
round. With its winding cobbled streets lined
with ancient buildings, nestled on the edge
of the translucent turquoise lake Annecy, this
is a town to fall head over heels for. And in
winter, with an average of 32 days of snowfall,
then Annecy really takes on a magical glow.
Fabulous restaurants, museums, a great
farmers market three times a week, plus a
wonderful Christmas market. Winter walks are
plentiful around the lake, including the not to
be missed Chateau de Menthon.
Plus there are superb ski resorts close by -
and easy to reach by bus year round with
snow-covered roads quickly cleared. Annecy
Mountains really is an out and out winter
destination extraordinaire…
Close to the lovely city of Annecy there are
several ski resorts of the Aravis Massif and
lots of lovely alpine villages. You can ski the
whole of the Aravis ski area on one ski pass -
220km of perfect slopes linked by pistes and
ski buses. La Clusaz is a traditional ski town
with great restaurants and bars, quirky shops
and stunning scenery. Le Grand Bornand,
another stunning alpine town is close by and
the smaller Manigod is within easy distance by
free shuttle bus. Meanwhile the lovely market
town of Thones has a fabulous Saturday
morning market and excellent gourmet food
shops.
If you love skiing you’ll find everything you
could possibly want here – a wide range of
pistes that cater to skiers of all levels and
snow sports galore. There are friendly towns
and fabulous après ski and even if you’re
not a skier there are plenty of activities from
snowshoeing to dog sledging and even gokarting
on ice.
In La Clusaz: This lively ski resort buzzes with
bonhomie throughout the winter with shows,
concerts and events including Savoyard folk
dancing, which all are welcome to join in with,
on the main piazza. One of the most beautiful
walks in the area is around the glacial lake
at the 1450m high Plateau des Confins,
Plateau des Glières near Manigod ©Sarah Goudeau
8 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 9

alongside the Nordic skiing pistes. And who
can resist floating in the village’s heated
outdoor pool as the snow falls around you…
In Le Grand Bornand: This is proper ‘Heidi’
country – alpine chalets galore, mountain
views that make your soul soar, as well as
museums and superb restaurants. Don’t miss
the Restaurant les Rhodos, a cosy mountain
bistro on the Aravis Pass.
In Manigod: Off the pistes, visit the Paccard
cheese cellars and taste local favourites
including Manigodine, Reblochon and
Chevrotin. Don’t miss The Garage Concept
Café, ‘Lo Garajo’, which has a deck
overlooking the mountains. Indulge in a
gastronomic experience at the Chalet-Hotel
La Croix-Fry – their Reblochon pie is mouthwateringly
good. And try out Paret’s sledge,
the emblematic ride is a one-shoe’d wooden
sledge with a vertical handle - you can borrow
one for free from Manigod tourist office!
Noël la clusaz © Pierrick Aubert
Ovonetwork.com
Lac de Thuy Hiver 2021 © OT Thônes CDV
Thones © Thônes Cœur des Vallées Tourist Office
10 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 11

In Thones: When it’s a full moon enjoy a ski tour adventure in a fairy-tale like landscape. Every
Thursday, at the end of the day, just as most ski areas close for the evening, Glières Plateau bursts
into life as skiers don headlamps for a magical guided tour.
Useful sites: annecymountains.com; manigod.com; thonescoeurdesvallees.com
French Riviera –
WINTER sunshine!
Where to stay
Where you stay is part of the adventure when it comes to Haute-Sauvoie. Gorgeous chalets,
roasty toasty wood fires, sitting in a hot tub as the snowflakes fall all around you and views that
make your soul soar. OVO Network’s exclusive, hand-picked holiday homes in the Alps are
nothing short of irresistible….
Chalet Riparian is just 200m
from the centre of La Clusaz
but feels like it’s in the middle
of nowhere. Ski-in/ski-out cosy
fireplace, gorgeous décor, walking
distance to the ice rink, shops, bars
and restaurants, child friendly and
with a sauna and a hot tub on the
terrace from where you can watch
the skiers whizz through the trees.
Chalet Manoe in Manigod with a
hot tub and ‘bubble’ sauna, open
fire and balcony with breath-taking
views, is a little bit of heaven.
Fabulous décor, electric boot
warmers and zero pollution for
outstanding star gazing – this cosy
retreat is superb.
Chalet Alti in Le Grand Bornand
sleeps 14 and is utterly enchanting
with its traditional feel whilst
making the most of green
technology with solar panels and
geothermal heating. The ski bus
stop is just 200m away though
experienced skiers can ski right
down to the Rosay gondola in
the centre of town. A gorgeous
kitchen, magnificent views, and
a large jacuzzi. Winter has never
been more fun.
Find more brilliant
accommodation in the
Alps at ovonetwork.com
Riparian
Chalet Manoe
12 | The Good Life France Mimosa © Jérôme Kelagopian / OTC Mandelieu
The Good Life France | 13

Before the French Riviera became de
rigeur for summer holidays – it was in fact
primarily considered a ‘winter resort.’ Even in
mid-winter, the French Riviera gets around
8 hours of sunshine a day. It’s not warm
enough to swim in the sea, with average daily
temperatures of 9-13 degrees centigrade, but
it rarely snows and all that sunshine means
you have plenty of time for sightseeing. With
less crowds you can enjoy the ambiance of
hilltop villages, visit cities that are thronging
with tourists in summer months like Saint-
Tropez and Cannes, discover superb museums
and get a table in even the most popular
restaurants plus enjoy the French Riviera’s
winter events.
Nice
Warm enough during
the day to not wear a
coat, Nice’s year-round
buzz is irresistible.
2023 marks the 150th
anniversary of the
famous winter carnival
and the 2023 theme
is in honour of Nice
achieving UNESCOlisted
status as the
“Winter resort city of
the Riviera”, reflecting
its popularity as a
winter destination
between the end of
the 18th century and
the end of the 19th
century which led
to its development
architecturally and
culturally.
Nice Carnival 10-
26 February 2023.
explorenicecotedazur.
com
Mimosa
The mimosa season! From the end of
January the French Riviera glows a dazzling
golden yellow as the mimosa trees burst into
bloom. Imported by British visitors in the
early 20th century from Australia where it’s
known as wattle, mimosa trees have spread
throughout the south of France. From
January to March their delicious scent fills
the air, heralding the arrival of spring, and
several events take place in celebration.
One not to miss is the Mimosa Festival at
Mandelieu-La Napoule – 5 days of colourful
floral parades, exhibitions and markets.
Details: mandelieu-tourisme.com
Fete du Citron, Menton © Ville de Menton
Menton Lemon Festival
What sort of recipe calls for 145,000 kgs of oranges and lemons? Where can you see an animal,
castle or a train made of fruit? The colourful and flamboyant Menton Lemon festival on the
French Riviera sees a weeklong refreshing and fruity festival feature giant figures made from
lemons and oranges. It all started when the winter crowds of the 19th century came to a halt in
the early 20th century and to lure them back, a hotel owner devised a plan to create a citrus fruit
exhibition in 1928. It’s now a major event in the south of France – and a fabulous winter tonic!
Menton Fete de Citron: 11-26 February 2023. fete-du-ctiron.com
Nice Carnival credit Nice Tourism
14 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 15

Kaysersberg, Lori Prosser Atlanta
Alsace – perfect for
culture lovers
Alsace is the quintessential winter destination
with its fairy tale like villages, especially with
a dusting of snow. Museums are less crowded,
menus reflect the season with robust and
tasty dishes and there’s not much that beats
enjoying a glass of vin chaud in a cosy café.
We look at some of the best things to do in
winter in Alsace…
Kaysersberg
Head to Kaysersberg for a taste of yesteryear.
This lovely little village was voted favourite
village of the French in 2017 and it’s easy to
see why. The village boasts an imperial castle,
half-timbered houses and fortified bridge
spanning the Weiss River. At Christmas it hosts
one of the prettiest markets in France.
Riquewihr
Riquewihr
Base yourself
in enchanting
Riquewihr if you like
tiny villages with
quaint half-timbered
houses, wine bars
and fabulous
restaurants. This
little village, just ten
minutes by car from
the city of Colmar
is incredibly pretty,
like a fairy-tale come to life. Wander the old
town streets and you’ll believe you’ve woken
up in the world of Hansel and Gretel. It’s a
great base for touring the countryside (you’ll
need wheels, public transport isn’t an option).
In town, Domaine Dopff, the first winemaking
house to produce Crémant d’Alsace is open
year-round. For a memorable meal head to
Au Trotthus, next to the famous 13th century
Dolder Tower, and experience the skills of top
chef Philippe Aubron.
Strasbourg
If you want more activity, especially at night,
then base yourself in Strasbourg, the capital
of Alsace. In the winter the frosted cobbled
streets are enchanting, especially in the Petite
France medieval district. There’s plenty to
do, the restaurants are superb, and there are
several truly superb museums.
Strasbourg
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16 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 17

iggest
The BÛCHE DE NOËL
in the world
© Service communication, ville d'Antibes
Janine Marsh heads to Antibes in southern France to discover a slice of heaven…
At Christmas in France, the star of the
festive table is the bûche de Noël cake. It’s a
tradition that goes back to the middle ages
though then the bûche, log, was a real one
and burned on the day of the winter solstice,
the longest night of the year. It was believed
that the ashes from the log, which might be
soaked in oil or wine, would bring luck. The
burning log was said to purify the house and
drive bad spirits away. In the 1800s, the log
tradition was transformed from wood to cake,
it became a ‘fake’ yule log, and a symbol of
Christmas in France. No one knows exactly
when this happened but some historians say
that the bûche de Noël cake was invented by
a Paris hotel chef, others that it was created
by Antonine Charadot, a pastry chef in Lyon
(who invented buttercream). Or perhaps by
Felix Bonnat, a Lyon-based chocolate master
or by Pierre Lacam, cake ice cream maker to
Prince Charles III of Monaco.
In December boulangeries and patisseries
all over France create bûches de Noël of
every flavour. One of the most popular is
the traditional chocolate bûche, made to
look just like a wooden log. But bakers and
cake makers let their imagination run wild,
meringue mushrooms, marzipan holly, spun
sugar cobwebs and tiny sugar axes often
feature. At the Hotel Negreso in Nice this year
they’re even making a yule log cake that looks
like a top hat featuring Corsican chestnuts,
creamy chestnut crème brûlée, Bavarian
mousse with blue vanilla from Réunion island
and confit from Burgundy.
But there is one place in France that takes the
bûche de Noël to a whole new level.
In the lovely coastal town of Antibes on the
French Riviera, you’ll see bûche de Noël
cakes in every boulangerie and patisserie.
But that’s not all. Each year local bakers and
chefs get together with volunteers to make the
biggest bûche de Noël in the world – up to a
mouth-watering 50 feet (15.3 metres) long. A
whopping 800 eggs, 85kg of flour, 100kg jam,
20kg of sugar, 20 litres of rum and 40 litres
of Chantilly cream go into the making of this
enormous cake.
In mid-December, those in the know head to
the pretty Le Safranier district, a flowery little
corner of the old town. It’s known as a ‘free
commune’, set up in the sixties, and has its own
mayor whose role it is to organise activities!
There are cake shops, restaurants and flowerfilled
streets. It's here in the main square that
the cake is set up. Songs are sung and to
much applause the cake is cut by the Mayor
of Antibes and the Mayor of Le Safranier
with a huge saw as it’s too big to cut with a
conventional knife. Everyone gets a piece of
the bûche de Noël, served with mulled wine
or chocolat chaud. A true taste of the spirit of
Christmas in France…
Details of the event 18 December 2022:
lacommunelibredusafranier.fr
18 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 19

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20 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 21

Exceptional arts and
crafts made in Provence
L'AUGUSTE Provence
create a unique artisanal
collection of bags and
accessories from exclusive
watercolors to bring a little
Provencal style into your
life wherever you are.
laugusteprovence.com
If you’d like a festive taste
of France at home, our
easy recipe for a yule log
cake is truly scrumptious!
INGREDIENTS
For the cake
3 eggs
85g golden caster sugar (3oz)
75g plain flour (all-purpose flour) (2.7 oz)
2 tbsp cocoa powder
½ tsp baking powder
FOR THE FILLING
284ml/10fl oz whipping cream
1 vanilla pod
Icing sugar, to taste
For the chocolate ganache
226g dark chocolate (8 oz)
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream
MAKE THE CAKE:
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Butter and line a Swiss roll tin with
baking paper.
Beat the eggs and golden caster sugar
together until thick and creamy. Separately
mix the flour, cocoa powder and baking
powder together, then sift onto the egg
mixture. Fold in gently (not stirring) and
then pour into the tin. Spread the mixture
evenly (tipping the tray to get the mix to go
to the corners.
Bake for 10 minutes.
Lay a clean tea towel or sheet of baking paper
on a work surface. When the cake is ready, tip
it onto the towel/baking paper and peel of the
paper it baked in.
Roll the cake gently from its longest edge to
form a ‘log’ shape. You have to do this while
the cake is still hot or it won’t play nice! Leave
to cool.
When it’s cool, unroll it, spread the Chantilly
cream and roll it up again. You can also use
a buttercream filling which works really well.
And you can spread a layer of jam before the
cream for a bit of fruity sweetness.
Make Chantilly cream: Pour the cream into
a bowl. Cut the vanilla pod in half lengthways
with a sharp knife, scrape out the seeds and
add them to the cream. Whip the cream until
it forms soft peaks. Add icing sugar, to taste,
and mix in gently.
Make the ganache: In a saucepan over a very
low heat, melt the chocolate and sugar slowly.
Add the heavy cream, stirring constantly with
a whisk until smooth. Leave it to cool until
ready to use.
When the cake is completely cooled, spread
it with chocolate ganache, score with a
knife to make it look like a log and decorate.
Simple icing sugar sprinkled over and a sprig
of holly looks good but you can go all out with
baubles, marzipan snowmen and whatever
festive favourites float your boat…
22 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 23

A very
British
Christmas
Pudding
With a French Connection…
William of Normandy enjoying a feast with his nobles – on the menu chicken on skewers and stew cooked on a wood oven.
Ever since 1066 when William, Duke of
Normandy conquered England, the language
of the English and then the British followed a
different route. For the next 300 years French
became the language of the English courts,
eventually filtering through into everyday use.
It’s estimated that to this day there are some
7000 originally French words still in use in the
UK – from attaché to zest.
And it wasn’t just the language that took hold.
The food did too. By all accounts William
had a robust appetite. It’s said he got so
large that at one point he put himself on a
diet of wine and spirits... It didn’t work. The
culture of French dishes of the time was
strictly for the rich, us peasants continued
to eat whatever was affordable as usual. In
the royal kitchens, French chefs ruled and
French cuisine remained popular – and still
is. An advert posted for a sous chef based
in Buckingham Palace in 2021 required that
applicants be “thoroughly trained in classical
French cuisine.” Two of France’s most famous
chefs worked for the British royal family. The
great Auguste Escoffier often cooked for
King Edward VII and was known as “the king
of chefs, and chef of kings.’ Marie-Antoine
Carême, arguably the first celebrity chef,
worked for George, Prince of Wales, the future
King George IV, in 1816 and was reportedly
paid a fortune for his services.
French gastronomy’s influence on British
cuisine can be found in several dishes,
sausages from saucisson, blancmange
and cottage pie, an adaptation of hachis
parmentier (minced beef and mashed
potatoes).
And even that most British of puddings – the
great Christmas Pudding, has a soupcon of
French influence…
Now, before I get a million emails telling me
I’m wrong, Christmas Pudding, also known as
plum pudding, is of course a British invention
and a beloved tradition for Christmas Day. It
should have 13 ingredients to represent Jesus
and the 12 disciples, traditionally boiled in
pudding cloth and be decorated with a sprig
of holly to represent Jesus’ crown of thorns.
And before serving you should pour brandy
over it and set fire to it. Yes. If you’re not
British and reading this. We really do this.
24 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 25

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So, what’s the French influence you might ask.
Well first, the ingredients include dried fruit
and since the mid-1800s, the best Christmas
puddings used glace cherries and candied fruit
from Apt in Provence.
Apt has been famous for its crystalised fruit
production since medieval times. The Popes
of Avignon were fans and the dried fruit has
long been a key part of the famous 13 Desserts
of Provence, a southern French Christmas
tradition. When British pudding maker Matthew
Wood visited France in the mid-1800s he fell
head over heels for the quality of Apt’s dried
fruit and imported it for use in cakes and of
course Christmas puddings where it gained a
reputation for being the crème de la crème
and all the best British cake producers sourced
their dried fruit from Apt for many years.
Today crystallised fruit from Apt has Intangible
Cultural Heritage status, and the town has
“Site Remarquable du Goût” (Remarkable Site
of Flavour) status. And at the Maison du Fruit
Confit, you can discover all about the history
of the sweet, sugared fruit.
In the 1920s, King George V commissioned a
Frenchman to reinvent the Christmas pudding.
The King’s chef was a Frenchman called Henri
Cédard and he was asked to adapt the Royal
family’s traditional pudding recipe so that
it could be shared with the public. It was an
enormous success and to this day, it’s a recipe
with a French connection that is made in
thousands of homes in the UK.
For the last few years, on “stir-up Sunday”,
the last Sunday before Advent Sunday The
Royal Family have shared the recipe for their
Christmas Pudding on Twitter – which caused
quite a stir!
26 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 27

To make a 1kg pudding for 8
INGREDIENTS
125g raisins
125g currants
95g sultanas
75g mixed peel
125g suet or vegetarian suet
125g breadcrumbs
45g flour
6g mixed spice
1 whole egg
45g demerara sugar
140ml beer
20ml dark rum
20ml brandy
METHOD
First, mix all the dry ingredients and stir together.
Then stir in the beaten egg and liquid ingredients.
Grease a pudding basin and press the mix
into the basin. Cover the basin with a circle
of parchment paper, muslin or foil (aluminum)
paper so that the pudding bowl is sealed.
Put the basin in a large saucepan and fill with
enough water to come up to around the ¾
mark of the basin and cover the pan with foil.
Steam for 6 hours – making sure to check
regularly to keep the water topped up to the
¾ mark.
Allow the pudding to cool, cover the top with
fresh parchment paper or foil and store and
wrap the whole basin in 2-3 layers of cling
film in a cool, dark place (or the fridge) until
Christmas.
On Christmas Day, reheat the pudding.
Remove the plastic wrapping, cover the top
with foil and boil for one hour, or remove all
the wrapping and heat in a microwave oven
for 10 minutes.
Before serving, pour a couple of tablespoons
of warmed brandy over the top, set fire to it.
Let the flames burn out, which burns off the
alcohol and serve with cream, ice cream,
brandy butter or crème anglaise (custard!).
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28 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 29

Tumbling rivers and spectacular caverns, ancient
villages and chestnut orchards. Gillian Thornton takes
a leisurely journey through the heart of Ardèche.
Aurignacian Gallery at Chauvet 2
Be amazed by
ARDÈCHE
Grotte-Chauvet-2-vue-du-ciel-©NEOS-Films
France is home to some spectacular painted
caves, each one with its own USP. But there’s
nowhere quite like the Grotte Chauvet-Pont
d’Arc, discovered in 1994 by three cavers
deep beneath a limestone plateau in the
rural department of Ardèche, Auvergne-
Rhone-Alpes.
More than 1000 animals gallop and graze
across its textured walls, skilfully painted
36,000 years ago by people who hunted
them for food but revered them enough to
depict them on the cavern walls. Why? We
can only guess.
I’m standing in front of a group of horses
with bristly manes, each head in a different
position. One animal has its mouth open in
surprise, another its eyes shut in pain, and
another has ears back in anger. In front of
Vogue
Vallon Pont d'Arc
them is a rhinoceros, his huge horn a warning
to any would-be combatants. On another wall,
I spot a massive bison that seems to have eight
legs until I look closer and see there’s a second
beast behind him. Everywhere I look I sense
movement. I can almost hear the pounding
of hooves, the snorts of breath, and grunts of
animals in fight or flight mode.
The hundreds of paintings in Grotte Chauvet
depict 14 different species, some never or
rarely seen in other paintings from the period.
Fierce creatures like lions and leopards,
mammoths and cave bears, but an owl too,
unique in Palaeolithic art. It’s spine tingling
stuff and bizarrely all the more so when I
remind myself it isn’t real.
The original cave, designated a World
Heritage Site by UNESCO, is too fragile to
open to the public. So I’m standing in front
of an extraordinary copy, the world’s largest
replica of a decorated cave that is perfect in
every minute detail. Grotte Chauvet 2 enables
all of us to get up close and personal with
Humanity’s first masterpiece, and to discover
the whole back story through the excellent
Aurignacian Gallery that completes this
unmissable visitor attraction.
But then there’s a lot about Ardèche that’s
unmissable. ‘Be Amazed by Ardèche’ is the
buzz line from the tourist board and they’re
not wrong. One of France’s most sparsely
populated departments, this unspoilt rural
area nestles up to the west bank of the river
Rhône for 135 km south of Lyon, part of the
Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region.
And yet many people pass by at speed, bound
for the holiday spots of the Mediterranean.
Turn off the Autoroute du Soleil however at
Tournon-sur-Rhône or further south towards
Privas and you’re in for a treat. Named after
the river that flows east from the Ardèche
30 | The Good Life France Ardeche Gorges
The Good Life France | 31

Cascade du Ray
Vallon Pont d'Arc
Mountains before turning sharply south near
Aubenas, this is a department for anyone who
loves outdoor adventure – soft or challenging
– and an authentic rural lifestyle that’s in tune
with the environment.
First major town that you come to travelling
south is Annonay, renowned for the colourful
July festival that celebrates the invention
of the hot air balloon. But ‘major’ is a tad
misleading. Despite being the department’s
largest town, Annonay has fewer than 17,000
people. Tournon-sur-Rhône, some 35 km
to the south, is even smaller but well worth
a stopover for its castle museum, riverside
frontage and lively café culture.
Further south and west, the land begins to rise
as you approach the county town of Privas,
gateway to the Monts d’Ardèche Regional
Natural Park and UNESCO-listed Géopark.
This is Big Sky Country where the lands ripples
towards the distant horizon in huge folds.
Highest point at 1753 metres, close to the
border with Haute-Loire, is Mont Mézenc, but
most iconic is Mont Gerbier de Jonc, source
Ardeche at Balazuc
of France’s longest river. It’s a popular tourist
attraction, but don’t expect to see a gush of
water springing neatly out of the earth. The
Loire’s inauspicious start is formed by the
joining together of small streams that flow
down from the top of the plug topping this
ancient volcano.
If, like me, you can’t resist a dramatic
landscape, the Monts d’Ardèche deliver at
every turn. This once turbulent landscape still
bears the evidence of ancient eruptions and
not just in its volcanic hills. At the Cascade du
Ray-Pic, water tumbles 200 feet over basalt
columns that solidified more than 30,000
years ago. Look too for signs indicating the
invisible Ligne du Partage des Eaux, the
natural watershed that slices north-south
through the west of the department. Rain
falling on one side flows to the Mediterranean,
and on the other, to the Atlantic, though how
people prove this, I’m never quite!
Many artists, sculptors and crafts people have
studios in this inspirational landscape and
eight eclectic outdoor artworks have been
installed along the 100-km Watershed Trail. I
particularly loved Mazan Abbey, a Cistercian
ruin nestled in a deep valley and location for
‘Un Cercle et Mille Fragments’, an innovative
installation by artist Felice Varini. The roof,
walls and adjacent bridge are painted with arcs
of gold leaf, arresting in themselves but if you
stand in the right spot, complete circles appear
to balance on the church roof. Clever stuff!
With no urban population exceeding 17,000,
Ardèche is a region of villages with 21 of them
awarded the Villages de Caractère label. Two
of them are also listed amongst the elite band
of Plus Beaux Villages de France. Walk the
medieval streets of Vogüé, dominated by a
16th century chateau, and explore the vaulted
passageways and ancient fortifications of
Balazuc, perched – like Vogüé – above the
Ardèche river.
The artistic gem of the Grotte Chauvet once
stood beside the river, but over the millennia
the course has changed and today the
Ardèche cuts deeper through the limestone.
But whilst the original Grotte Chauvet
32 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 33

may be out of bounds to visitors, there are
stalagmites and stalactites aplenty at the
magnificent Aven d’Orgnac, classified Grand
Site de France. Also at the Grotte de Saint
Marcel, where you can book an underground
wine tasting without the sensory distractions
experienced above ground.
Caving, climbing and canoeing enthusiasts
flock to Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, riverside hub of
the local outdoor leisure industry. Don’t miss
the natural rock arch that spans the river, an
Instagram moment for the many kayakers who
cruise beneath, as well as for those who drive
the Corniche above the spectacular, winding
Ardèche Gorges.
Cycle tourism is big in Ardèche too. Not just
for lycra-clad enthusiasts, but family groups
too through initiatives like La Dolce Via, a
level cycle and walking route that runs for
75km along a former railway track in the
Eyrieux valley. Many small hotels and guest
houses offer bikes to guests or you can hire
locally, including e-bikes. And many are part
of the Acceuil Vélo network that offer bike
storage and cleaning facilities to pedalpowered
tourists.
You’ll find every kind of accommodation
from chateau B&Bs to farmhouse hotels in
Ardèche. Even treehouses at Peaugres Safari
Park. But the most popular style of holiday
accommodation ere is the humble tent. Or
sometimes not quite so humble. Here you can
be one with nature without roughing it, given
the choice of camping or glamping, yurts,
bubbles and log cabins.
Light show on the basins inside Grotte Saint Marcel d'Ardeche
Meyras
All this fresh air makes you hungry, but
Ardèche is justifiably proud of both its
gastronomy and its less formal ‘bistronomy’.
Chefs are passionate about local produce, in
particular the AOP Ardèche chestnut. Staple
food of the area for centuries, Ardèche is
France’s No 1 chestnut producer, cultivating
65 different varieties that are sold fresh, dried,
and as chestnut flour. Gen up at the Castanea
discovery centre in Joyeuse. (And see our
fabulous chestnut puree recipe on page 113).
And of course good food deserves good
wine. Ardèche is home to many high quality
vintages that combine full flavour with
minimal food miles. Famous names include
Crozes Hermitage and Saint-Joseph, Cornas
and Saint-Péray, Côtes du Rhône and Côte
de Vivarais. Look out for the Vignobles et
Découvertes wine tourism label for vineyards
that offer tours, tastings and various innovative
experiences to enthusiasts.
Then raise a glass or two to Ardèche –
underground or overground, this rural
department really will amaze you.
For more information, visit
ardeche-guide.com
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France and more...
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34 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 35

Côtes du Rhône
Jeremy Flint explores the beauty of the Côtes du Rhône on a road trip through the
Rhône Valley following the wine route along through enchanting villages, glorious
countryside and the steepest vineyards in France…
A road trip along the Rhône River is a great
way to discover this lesser-known region
of France, bound by picturesque villages,
sweeping roads and spectacular scenery,
where vineyards cling to the hillsides and
delicious wines and warm hospitality await.
I decided to drive along the idyllic Côtes du
Rhône to get a flavour of its wine route and
remarkable beauty which follows the course
of the Rhône River 125 miles southwards along
three regions including the Rhône, the Drome
and Ardèche in the southeast of France.
Starting just south of Lyon I drove its length
from Saint-Cyr-sur-le-Rhône almost to the
Mediterranean Sea as far as Avignon.
The Rhône is one of the classic French wine
regions and has been a hub of wine culture
since ancient times. It is amongst the oldest
vineyard regions on the planet, where Greeks,
Romans and Medieval Popes fell under the
spell of the native-grape rocky-soil flavours.
Today it is just as popular, with more than
5,000 producers and over 100 villages
making wines over a whopping 86,000 acres,
making it the second-largest wine region in
France. The Côtes du Rhône is a region wide
appellation, the official title given to wines
made on the hillsides and communes along
the Rhône River. Here, the winemakers of the
Côtes du Rhône experiment with blends and
Tain L'Hermitage
vineyard techniques nurturing the ancient
grape varieties into quality wines. Dedicated
artisans and producers offer an exceptional
range of red wines (and some whites) that
are easy to drink. The classic Côtes du
Rhône wine is a delicious fruity middleweight
red blend based on Grenache, Syrah and
Mourvedre grapes.
Tournon and Tain
L’Hermitage
This superb region provides some of the
best vineyards, wine routes and magnificent
landscapes in France. In the northern Côtes
du Rhône, explore the captivating medieval
towns of Tournon and Tain L’Hermitage for
a great introduction to the region. Situated
either side of the Rhône they form the
gateway to the Route des Vins driving route
where you can navigate through the heart
of the hillside vineyards, going from cellar
36 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 37

to cellar to help you discover and taste the
appellations of the region: the Hermitage,
Crozes Hermitage and St. Joseph. Uncovering
this wine route is nothing short of spectacular
with its epic views, winery visits and quality
plonk.
Beyond the vineyards, both these towns are
great places to visit. You can relax and take a
boat trip along the river from Tain L’Hermitage
or wander the embankments for great
riverside views. I hiked up to the watchtowers
above Tournon for spectacular panoramas of
the surrounding vineyards and Rhône River
meandering below before admiring the Marc
Seguin footbridge and visiting the historic
centre and Chapel Hermitage for some
unique cultural heritage.
Seguret
A week is ample time to unearth the best parts
of this rural journey. After three nights in the
north, I headed to the southern part of the
Côtes du Rhône, following the Rhône River to
the incredible hilltop villages of Seguret and
Sablet. Elevated above the vineyards, Seguret
is classified as one of the most beautiful
villages in France. Inside the old town you will
find characterful cobbled streets, historical
stone houses, a traditional stone archway and
a charming bell tower.
Seguret
Sablet
Nearby Sablet is the jewel in the crown with its
breath-taking picture postcard views, framed
by vineyards and the magnificent Dentelles
de Montmirail mountains beyond. This rocky
outcrop is a geological masterpiece, eroded
by time to form the chiselled mountains that
span 8 kilometres. These mountains are a
paradise for nature lovers and the scenic
beauty is best explored on foot, by mountain
bike or rock climbing. You will be rewarded
with spectacular views over of a seemingly
infinite sea of vineyards and forests.
For more places like this, visit nearby Vaisonla-Romaine
with its Roman ruins and old town
or the highly esteemed architectural delights
and Roman monuments at Orange.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Chateauneuf du Pape
The last historic place I recommend visiting
in the southern Rhône Valley is Châteauneufdu-Pape,
nestled between the historic towns
of Avignon and Orange. Famous for its
powerful, full-bodied red wine the village of
Chateauneuf-du-Pape offers great cellars
Sablet
38 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 39

Gorges Ardeche
or wine shops seemingly every few metres –
perfect for a wine tasting. It is simply the best
place to source true and original tasting, top
quality wines along the southern Rhône River.
Visiting the winding lanes, medieval tower and
Place de la Fontaine with its outdoor cafés
and restaurants is equally sublime.
Gorges de l’Ardeche
Don’t miss the scenic Gorges of the Ardèche,
a visual feast of winding gorges and the
snaking Ardeche river, a tributary of the
Rhône. Zigzagging for 29 kilometres and
peppered with scenic twists and turns as
you drive along the canyon’s rim you'll feel
compelled to stop for the jaw-droppingly
spectacular views of the limestone Gorges
at every corner. If you’re feeling energetic,
take to the waters and canoe beneath the
impressive natural stone bridge Pont d’Arc
for close-up views.
Wherever you decide to drive along this
enchanting route, take your time, savour
the views, sip the wine and simply enjoy the
spectacular journey…
40 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 41

SPOTLIGHT
Packed with medieval history but with a buzzing contemporary vibe, Normandy’s
regional capital is a stunning destination for a city break says Gillian Thornton.
ON:
ROUEN
It’s not every day that I sit down to dinner
in a medieval cemetery, but then Rouen’s
Aître Saint-Maclou is no ordinary burial
ground. Surrounded by an ossuary gallery
– a repository for storing bones – this
extraordinarily tranquil spot is one of just four
to survive in France. And it’s a must-see for
any visitor to this captivating city.
Far from being macabre, the Aître Saint-
Maclou is a classic example of how Rouen
uses its rich history to educate, entertain
and enthuse 21st century visitors. And when
your city has connections to Joan of Arc
and Gustave Flaubert, Claude Monet and
the Impressionist artists, you have plenty of
material to work with.
Easily reached by car from the Channel
ports, by train from Paris, and by river cruise
along the Seine, Rouen was ravaged by the
Black Death in the mid-14th century. Already
weakened by the ongoing battles with England
in what came to be called The Hundred Years
War, Rouen struggled to keep pace with the
mortality rate. The Aître Saint-Maclou helped
solve the problem, first as a mass grave, then
with the addition of a galleried ossuary where
bones could be stored in the roof trusses.
Street children and beggars began to
congregate here and traders set up fruit
stalls, until in 1778, the Aître closed as a
cemetery and morphed into a location for
charity-run schools. Walk through the galleries
today with their ornate carved columns and
you can almost hear the shouts of Rouen’s
poor children at play. Come back in the
evening when the site is closed to casual
visitors to dine at Café Hamlet within those
atmsoopheric half-timbered galleries.
Saint-Maclou was one of many pleasant
surprises when I made a long overdue return
to Rouen this summer as part of a touring
holiday by car. The Radisson Blu Centre
proved a great base with its underground car
park and popular restaurant, easily accessed
Eglise Jeanne Darc
off the perimeter road and an easy walk
to the historic centre through a network of
pedestrian streets.
I clearly remembered the flamboyant carved
façade of the city’s cathedral, or did it just
seem familiar from some 30 paintings made
by Claude Monet in differing lights? Many
were painted from an upstairs room in the
former House of Exchequer – now the Tourist
Information Office - at the corner of the nowpedestrianised
square in front of this towering
Gothic monument.
Take advantage of one of the free telescopes
around the square for a close up view of the
west front that Monet would surely have envied.
Then head inside to see a monument to English
king Richard the Lionheart. His body lies in the
Plantagenet necropolis at Fontevraud but his
heart is buried here in Rouen.
The half-timbered buildings were certainly
familiar to me in the streets behind the
cathedral that lead to the Church of Saint-
42 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 43

Maclou, but twenty years on from my last visit,
they seemed brighter and better maintained,
clearly the result of ongoing restoration. I
walked beneath the colourful facades of 14th
century houses; indulged in a scrumptious
cake at Dame Cakes by the cathedral; and
wandered through the lofty interior of Saint-
Ouen Church, currently the subject of a major
restoration campaign.
Like many French cities, Rouen is dotted with
churches, some big, some small, and some
utterly unique like the Joan of Arc church in
the Place du Vieux Marché. A peasant girl
from the Vosges, Joan claimed that God had
instructed her to support Charles, heir to the
French throne, against the English. But she
was captured by their allies, the Burgundians,
tried in the Archbishop’s Palace at Rouen and
condemned to death.
Joan was burnt at the stake in the Old Market
Place in 1431 and today a modern church
built in 1979 stands next to the covered
market at the place where she breathed her
last. Unprepossessing from the outside, the
church is a different story inside, dappled with
colour from a multi-coloured wall of brilliant
medieval stained glass.
Discover Joan’s dramatic story at the
immersive experience that is the Historial
Jeanne d’Arc, a digital journey through a
second trial that took place here in 1456 in the
very spot where she was tried the first time.
Headsets provide the commentary in English
from an array of ‘talking heads’ and as you
move from room to room, you really get the
feeling that you are in on the decision that
was made to pardon the ‘Maid of Orleans’.
Absorbing and instructive with no previous
Joan knowledge necessary.
Wander the streets to take in other
monuments such as the Gros Horloge, an
enormous 14th century clock with one of the
oldest clock mechanisms in Europe, and La
Maison Sublime, oldest Jewish monument in
France. Walk or cycle along the quaysides
beside the Seine, and browse Rouen’s rich
offering of high street retailers and specialist
boutiques, liberally dotted with tempting
places to eat and drink.
But leave time too for some of the city’s
eight free museums. I loved the eclectic
mix on display in the Antiquities Museum
that includes a Roman mosaic, an Egyptian
mummy and Greek pottery, as well as the
Natural History Museum which boasts one of
the most diverse collections in France.
But top slot for me goes to the Impressionist
collection within the Fine Arts Museum.
Works by Monet, of course, but Pissarro,
Renoir and Sisley too, who all painted in the
city and surrounding area. One of the most
important Impressionist collections outside
Paris, it is a highlight of one of France’s most
delightful cities.
Further information from
www.rouentourisme.com
Beyond the city centre
A few days at your disposal? Follow the
meanders of the Seine to east and west, by car
or maybe by bike. Heading east, the Route des
Abbayes links ecclesiastical gems such as the
Abbey of Saint-Pierre de Jumièges – 30 km
from the city centre – where contemporary art
exhibitions are frequently held amongst the
ruins, and Saint-Georges de Boscherville with
its terraced abbey gardens. And buy seasonal
fruit, jams and jellies along the Route des
Fruits between Duclair and Notre-Dame de
Bliquetuit where the microclimate favours all
manner of orchard fruits.
Head east for the ruins of Château Gaillard,
a strategic fortress built by Richard the
Lionheart on a hilltop beside the Seine at
Les Andeleys, 40 km from historic Rouen.
Another 30 km brings you to Giverny and the
legendary house and garden of Impressionist
supremo Claude Monet. Walk amongst the
flower beds, spend time in the house he
shared with his wife and children, and stroll
around the famous lily pond that featured
in so many vast canvasses painted towards
the end of his long life. But do try to visit
early or late in the day, or outside peak
season, to enjoy this magical plot without the
international crowds desperate for the next
Instagram selfie.
For a different kind of Norman countryside,
drive east from Rouen for 35 km, passing
through a glorious beech forest to Lyons-la-
Forêt, an enchanting village of half-timbered
and brick houses that is deservedly classified
amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France.
Find out more at lyons-andelle-tourisme.com
44 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 45

The CHAMPAGNE of the north
Beer producers in the far north of France
are revitalising the brewing industry, and in
Lille micro-breweries are taking beer to new
heights!
Is beer the new wine in France? If you go
to Lille, the capital of the Hauts-de-France
region, you will certainly be forgiven for
thinking it is! The historic city has seen a
rebirth of the beer-making industry over the
last 20 years or so. But these new-breed
micro-brewers aren’t just producing standard
beers. They’re brewing new and exciting
beers, experimental beers, sour beers, fruity
beers, stout beer, blonde beer, old school
IPAs, double IPAs, New England IPAs,
American pale ale, lager, beers stored in
whisky, Cognac and wine barrels and more.
These new beers are having a ripple effect in
the industry and the beer trend has spread
throughout France.
Beer has been brewed in France for
hundreds of years. But its due to French King
Louis XIV that the culture of brewing in the
north became so important. He ordered that
beer imports from the Netherlands – which
was at war with France – should cease, and
northern France had to brew enough for
French needs.
Until the 1990s beer was pretty much brewed
in the traditional way in big breweries but
the new micro-breweries are innovative,
creative and sometimes playful with their
mix. The new beers are all about brewing in
an artisan way, there’s no algorithm for it, it’s
about passion, experimentation and creating
unique tastes. And the new beers have found
a whole new legion of fans.
There are more than 30 micro-breweries
in Lille. Typically, there are just 3-4 people
involved in the artisanal production process
and they make around 1000hl (175,000
pints) per year - compared to companies
like Heineken who make more than 1.5 million
pints per day.
You’ll find an enormous choice of bars,
breweries and bistros pairing beer and
food in Lille…
Brewers feast – where to
drink beer in Lille
Le Capsule – locals will tell you this is THE bar
to go to for beer lovers. Knowledgeable staff,
comfy chairs and an outstanding, constantly
updated range of beers.
Bar-lacapsure.fr
There’s a new breed of tap room in Lille –
fun, quirky and funky, with micro-breweries
making new beers throughout the year
and serving them with food that’s perfectly
paired with beer. At Hein in the centre of
Lille, the eclectic mix of grannie’s posh
parlour ornaments and modern vibrant
colours is eccentrically brilliant. Every
two weeks they launch a new beer. If the
customers like them they produce more!
The menu features traditional northern
dishes like carbonade flamande (beef
cooked in beer) and chips. Manager Loic
Movellan says “Sure we make beer with
hops and malt, but we also make beer using
mango smoke, pepper and coffee, vanilla,
raspberry, mint and lime. Our mission is to
help people discover every type of beer, we
want to democratise beer.”
briquehouse.com
Take a craft beer tasting tour, guided tour with
a ‘beerologist’, and even a blind beer tasting
treasure hunt with Echappée Bière. There
are several ways to discover historic Lille and
enjoy beer, including in an iconic 2CV. Pop
into the tourist office in the centre for lots of
details. Lilletourism.com
46 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 47

THREE
brilliant
Lille
brewers
Brewbaix at Roubaix
Brewer Jerome Gervais
and his small team make
beer in a big shed in
the Roubaix district of
Lille. His hugely popular
innovative beers include
meringues, chocolate
and vanilla in the recipe!
Cambier
At Cambier, you can
watch the beer being
brewed and relax at
the tasting bar. Though
production is on a more
professional scale, they
are also experimenting
with ingredients like
elderflower.
Motte Cordonnier
Once a huge name in
beer-making in France
going back some 300
years but bought out by
Belgian brewery Stella
Artois in 1970. Now
Henry Motte, grandson
of the last of a long
line of beer-makers is
resurrecting the practice
near the family’s old
brewing premises in
Armentières. Beers
include ingredients such
as ginger and yuzu,
coffee and pepper.
Azincourt1415.com
24 Rue Charles VI
62310 Azincourt
Step back in time
and discover the past at
Azincourt 1415 historic centre
48 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 49

SPOTLIGHT ON:
The sweet village of
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain in Burgundy is a
picturesque medieval village surrounded by
bucolic countryside, vineyards and lush green
hillsides. And it’s a place where the streets
are filled with the scent of anise - Chantille de
Lindcourt finds out why…
Flavigny in the heart of Auxois, Cote d’Or is
classified as one of the most beautiful villages
in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France).
It has a long history linked to gastronomy,
because it’s here, in this small, perched
village of 300 inhabitants, that the famous
“Anis de Flavigny” sweets have been made
for several centuries.
How it all began
In 52 BC, Alesia in Burgundy was the site of
a great battle between the Roman Emperor
Julius Caesar and the leaders of the Gauls,
Vercingetorix. A certain Flavinius was
then head of the Roman camp which was
established close by. And after the battle,
given the land in gratitude for his bravery, he
gave it the name Flaviniacum. Later it became
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain.
Legend has it that the Roman conquerors used
anise seeds for stomach problems and the
practice spread.
In the 9th century, the monks at Flavigny
Benedictine Abbey began making small
anise dragees - a form of sugar-coated
confectionary, after Charlemagne, King of the
Franks ordered all monasteries to grow anis
for medicinal purposes in 812. Why the monks
in Flavigny coated the anis pastilles in sugar,
no one knows.
Anise sweets are still made in the town
using green anise seeds, coated in flavoured
sugar. Anise de Flavigny use a recipe, which
after being refined over the centuries, has
remained unchanged since 1591 gaining
the company a “Living Heritage Company”
award. And when you visit the town, a tour
of the manufacturing workshop to discover
its secrets plus a stop at their sweetshop, full
of colourful pretty boxes of anis sweets, is an
absolute must.
But this little Burgundy gem has plenty more
to tempt you to visit.
During the French Revolution, the monks
deserted the abbey, which was then sold
as a public property and for the most part,
destroyed. The Carolingian (750-887) crypt is
well-preserved though, and you can visit it for
free. Since 1591, the abbey has been occupied
by the Anis de Flavigny factory. Long popular
in France, they were even enjoyed by King
Louis XIV who kept some in his pocket.
What to see in Flavignysur-Ozerain?
Take a stroll through the village and admire
the architecture and ancient buildings. Halftimbered
houses give an air of timelessness
and fans of the film Chocolat, with Johnny
Depp and Juliette Binoche, will recognise the
pretty cobbled streets – as it’s here that the
filming took place.
50 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 51

the Porte de Barme, the Poterne and the Tour
du Guet are worth seeking out.
Flavigny-sur-Ozerain was also renowned for
its wool production, weaving, hemp, tin, glass
and pottery production. The brown wool of
the Burel sheep was used to make the monks’
brown robes. In the village today, you can still
see the ancient houses of drapers, millers,
tanners and winegrowers.
https://frenchcountryadventures.com/
Don’t miss a visit to the 13th century Gothic
church of Saint Genest with its intricately
carved 16th century stalls. The building has
housed the relics of Saint Regina since 1793
when they were removed from the abbey
where they had been kept for more than
1000 years.
Between the 12th and 14th centuries, the town
was fortified with a great wall. The gates are
still in place: Porte du Val, the Porte du Bourg,
What to see and do
near Flavigny
For hiking enthusiasts, an easy walking trail
“from Anis to the Vineyard” takes you on a
loop of about 8km around the village with
great views (2h30).
About 10km away, Muséoparc Alesia
presents the famous battle between
Vercingetorix and Caesar.
And a little further on, the Chateau de
Bussy-Rabutin is a magnificent Renaissance
castle with large French gardens.
52 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 53

Guide to GASCONY
Originally called Vasconia, a part of Roman Gallia Aquitania,
Gascony spanned the width and breadth of western France from
the Loire River south to the Spanish Pyrenees, and from Toulouse
west to the Atlantic Ocean. Its capital was once Bordeaux. Today
Gascony is divided between the regions of Nouvelle-Aquitaine
and Occitanie. Each region has its own ancient history, colorful
landscapes, and unique traditions.
A powerful duchy in the Middle Ages, Gascony came under
English rule in 1154 through the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine
to Henry Plantagenet (Henry II) King of England, and remained
English until the end of the Hundred Years’ War in 1453, when it
formally became part of France.
Gascony local Sue Aran who runs guided tours of the region shares 26 reasons to fall in
love with Gascony:
Armagnac is the oldest French brandy you’ve
most likely never heard of, unless you’re a
connoisseur. Introduced in 1411, it precedes
Cognac by some 200 years.
Berets as we know them today came from
Gascony, more specifically the Béarn
region high in the Pyrénées. In old Gascon
“bérret” was the word for cap. Originally,
a local craft made from wool or felt, it was
the headdress of the high mountain guides
and Béarnais shepherds of the Pyrénées.
The first factory began producing them
commercially in the 19th century in the
village of Oloron-Sainte-Marie nestled in
the Pyrénées-Atlantic department. The
small “tail” which protrudes in the center,
the cabilhòt or cabilhou was the end of the
threads resulting from hand knitting. If a
cabilhou is missing from a beret, bad luck
will come to the wearer. Gascon bérets are
typically larger and worn flatter than the
more commonly recognized Basque béret.
Cyrano de Bergerac was written in 1897 by
Edmond Rostand. The play is a fictionalization
following the broad outlines of the life of the
real Cyrano, a dashing officer of the Gascon
Nerac
D'Artagnan's House
Cadets. The Cadets were a French regiment
under King Louis XIII, recruited from the
youngest sons of the aristocratic families of
Gascony. The word cadet comes from the old
Gascon dialect of Occitan, capdèth, meaning
chief or captain. Bergerac straddles the
Dordogne River, with a statue of Cyrano in
one of its many pretty squares.
D’Artagnan was not just the fictionalized
character from Alexandre Dumas’ novels, but
a real person by the name of Charles Ogier
de Batz-Castelmore D’Artagnan. He was a
valiant soldier who became Captain of the
Espelette Peppers
Musketeers and was answerable only to the
Sun King himself, Louis XIV. D’Artagnan was
born in Lupiac, a village in the Gers, in 1611.
The Chateau de Castelmore, D’Artagnan’s
home is a few kilometers outside the village
proper. In the 1630s D’Artagnan moved to
Paris, where he lived a life of daring and
espionage. The Musée D’Artagnan, housed
in the Chapelle Notre Dame in Lupiac, is
dedicated to his life and legend.
Espelette Peppers are a cornerstone of
Basque cuisine, replacing black pepper as
a spice. Espelette peppers are harvested in
late summer and, in September, festoons of
peppers are hung on balconies and exterior
house walls to dry out.
Floc de Gascogne is a local aperitif made only
in Gascony. Produced since the 16th century,
it comes from an old peasant recipe of 2/3 grape
juice and 1/3 Armagnac, and is available in both
red and white varieties.
Garlic is a speciality from the Gers and Tarnet-Garonne
departments dating back to the
13th century when it was brought to France by
nomadic merchants from Asia. A legend states
that one trader had no money to pay for his
dinner at a restaurant in the village of Lautrec
in the Tarn department, so he settled up with
pink garlic cloves instead. The innkeeper
planted the cloves and Lautrec is now the
centre of pink garlic cultivation.
Henri IV of France was a man of courage
and foresight who, more than 400 years ago,
saved his country from pious quarrels. Instead
of paying for wars to be fought, he paid for
them not to be fought. He understood the
conditions of the common people, whom he
had a real affection for, and tried to improve
their lives. He pledged that all, even the
poorest should be able to afford 'poule au pot',
a chicken stew popular to this day.
Irouléguy is a small Basque village in
Lower Navarre in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques
department. Its delicious wines are grown
in one of the smallest vineyards in France,
the only one in the French Basque country.
The history of the vineyard is linked to the
pilgrimage to Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle.
Jurançon is an area west of Pau. Jurançon
was one of King Henri IV’s favorite wines,
grown along the hillsides on the southern
banks of the Gave de Pau covering 1,000
hectares. It is still considered the wine of Kings
and still served at important events.
Jurancon Wine
Kakouetta Gorge, with a length of a little
less than four kilometers, offers a beautiful
landscape for nature lovers. Mosses, lichens,
and ferns are so abundant that the area
resembles tropical microclimate.
Kakauetta Gorge
54 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 55

Ossau-Iraty
Urrugne
Lourdes is nestled in the foothills of the
Pyrenees Mountains, in the department of the
Haute-Pyrenees. For 159 years, millions of the
faithful from all over the world have flocked
to Lourdes, where, it is said, the sick can be
healed miraculously.
Marciac – This 13th century bastide village
boats the tallest church steeple in the Gers,
standing at an impressive 293 ft. Since
1978, the Jazz in Marciac festival has hosted
internationally renowned musicians and
singers from Wynton Marsalis to Norah Jones.
Nérac – Built on a Gallo-Roman villa
along both banks of the Baïse River, Nérac
prospered as the favorite summer residence
of King Henri IV, the most beloved king of
France. The remains of his impressive chateau,
are now a museum. Its Saturday market is the
best in the Lot-et-Garonne department.
Nerac
Ossau-Iraty goats cheese. Goats were first
introduced to Southwest France in the 8th
century.
Pousse Rapier is a liquor made from wellguarded
recipes containing a base of 24%
eau de vie, steeped and flavored with orange
peel, lemon peel, vanilla and sugar.
Quiteria – Saint Quitterie – was a young girl
of noble Visigoth blood, who preferred to die
rather than deny her faith. According to a
medieval manuscript from the 12th century,
she was decapitated around 477. Legend says
she carried her head in her hands to the pagan
sanctuary of Mas d’Aire (now a fountain)
above the church which bears her name in the
village of Aire-sur-l’Adour.
Ravel – Maurice Ravel was a 19th and early
20th century French composer of classical
music. His best known works are Bolero and
Daphne and Chloé. He was born in the Basque
town of Ciboure, France, just across the bridge
from the fishing village of St. Jean de Luz.
Séviac – one of the largest Gallo-Roman
archeological sites in Gascony includes a
classic villa dating from the 2nd century,
complete with a thermal bath complex, and
beautiful, multi-colored mosaics.
Terraube – a medieval village that once
belonged entirely to Hector de Galard, a
renowned warrior during the Hundred Year’s
War. His face is represented as the Jack of
Diamonds in the French pack of playing cards.
Urrugne is a beautifully preserved Pays
Basque village which stretches from the ocean
along the beautiful Basque Corniche to the
first mountains of the Pyrenees.
Villa Arnega is in the Pays Basque village
of Cambo-les-Bains, and was the home
to Edmund Rostand, dramatist of the play,
Cyrano de Bergerac.
Villa Arnega
Woad is a plant in the mustard family native
to parts of Asia and Europe, whose leaves
have been used since antiquity to produce
a “pastel” blue dye. Pastel dye was the only
source of blue available until the late 16th
century. Blue dyed fabrics became a luxury
and many fortunes were made in its cultivation
and production, particularly in and around the
towns of Toulouse and Albi. When trade routes
to the Indies opened, indigo dye extracted
from another species of plant, was imported.
Both Pastel and Indigo industries declined with
the invention of synthetic blue dye. Denise
Woad
and Henri Lambert of Bleu de Lectoure, in
the Gers department, are credited with rediscovering
the wonders of the woad plant.
Xaintrailles is located on the old Roman
road of the Ténarèze (linking Bordeaux to
the central Pyrenees). Once home to Poton
de Xaintrailles, Marshall of France and
companion of Joan of Arc. He left to the
village his 12th century castle, which is now
open to the public for guided tours.
Yquem – a magnificent 16th century chateau
wine estate which once belonged to the King
of England.
Zut alors! I could not find a place, person or
word associated with Gascony that begins
with a “z”, hence zut alors, which translates,
appropriately, to “darn”!
Yquem
56 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 57

The Genius
from the
JURA
Born 200 years ago in Dole, world-famous
chemist Louis Pasteur returned regularly to his
native Jura. Gillian Thornton headed east to
find out more.
As someone who loves both history and
houses, I’ve always found it hard to resist a
period property with a personality attached.
But few have left such a lasting impression on
me as the house of Louis Pasteur at Arbois
in Franche-Comté. Full of atmosphere and
personal artefacts, it feels as though the great
man has just popped out for a baguette and
could return at any moment.
Nestled up against Switzerland in the foothills
of the Jura mountains, Arbois is a tranquil
small town surrounded by a lush landscape of
rolling pastures and vineyards. Not at all the
place where you would expect to find a homelaboratory
for a man who made some of the
most important scientific findings of the age.
Of any age. Now, 200 years after his birth,
there are thought to be more French streets
named after Louis Pasteur than any other
public figure. So what exactly did he do?
To those of us with a sketchy grasp of
science, the technicalities of Pasteur’s
achievements can be hard to understand,
especially when it comes to his first big
discovery, molecular asymmetry. But it’s
not hard to appreciate the difference his
findings made to a 19th century society that
understood little about the causes of disease
in plants, animals and humans. Pasteur was
to change all that.
The story begins in Dole where Louis was
born on 27 December 1882, the son of a
tanner who had been decorated during the
Napoleonic Wars. Two centuries later, the
genius from the Jura has been celebrated
throughout 2022 with exhibitions, scientific
workshops and family activities across his
native area and beyond.
But you can get close to this amazing man at
any time. From February to November, the
two properties most closely associated with
the scientist and his family are open to the
public, key sites on a self-drive Route Pasteur.
When Louis was four, the family moved to
Arbois, 35 Km from Dole, where he attended
the local primary school before moving to
secondary school in nearby Besançon. In
1845, he was awarded a science degree in
Paris and from then on, Pasteur focussed on a
career on scientific research and teaching.
At the age of just 31, Pasteur was appointed
Dean of the Science Faculty at Lille University
where he began to study fermentation.
He spent several years studying both the
beneficial and harmful effects of microbes
on foodstuffs, applying his findings to the
contamination problems that beset the French
wine and beer industries. And in 1862, he
came up with a revolutionary process to kill
off bad microbes. Named pasteurization in his
honour, it has been applied to milk and a wide
range of other foods ever since.
One discovery led to another. By 1866,
Pasteur and his wife Marie had lost three
of their five children – two to typhoid fever
58 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 59

But step inside Pasteur’s front door in Dole or
in Arbois and you are instantly transported
back two centuries to a world before modern
medicine to meet a man whose curiosity and
determination changed all our lives for the
better. The very least we can do is name roads
after him.
Pasteur Country
Dole: Visit Pasteur’s birthplace close to
the banks of the Doubs and the canal that
linked the former tanneries. Follow the
brass plates in the pavement of a perched
cat – Le Circuit du Chat Perché – for
4Km to discover the hidden treasures of
this charming Art & History town, capital
of the Comté region in the 15th century.
Doletourisme.fr
www.doletourisme.fr/en/
Pasteur's home laboratory in Arbois
and one from a liver tumour. Diseases, he
realised, were caused by germs, and from
1867, Pasteur promoted the sterilization of
surgical instruments and the importance of
cleaning wounds that soon produced radical
improvements in public health. He also
addressed the disease crisis in the French
silk industry and identified the organisms
responsible for contaminating silkworms. But
there was still work to be done. During the
anthrax epidemic of the 1870s, Pasteur turned
his attention to immunology, coming up with
vaccines for both anthrax and rabies.
Louis Pasteur’s health declined steadily after
a stroke in 1894 and he died a year later on
28 September 1895 in Paris, where he had
lived with his wife for the last seven years. At
her request, he was buried in a crypt beneath
the Pasteur Institute, founded by him in 1888
for research into infectious diseases, his tomb
surrounded by Byzantine-style mosaics that
honour his many discoveries.
Arbois: Centre of the Jura winemaking
industry, Arbois was home to the Pasteur
family from 1823; visit at your own pace
with a tablet, ‘guided’ by his nephew.
Walk the Circuit Pasteur; indulge yourself
with handmade chocolates from Maison
Hirsinger; and explore the vineyards and
hiking trails of the local Coeur du Jura area.
coeurdujura-tourisme.com
60 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 61

Baubles, bubbles
Baubles
= bells
MERRY CHRISTMETZ
Just 1.5 hours from Paris by train,
Metz (pronounced Mess) in
Moselle, northeast France, hosts
a marvellous Christmas market.
And, if you love Christmas
markets, fabulous architecture,
streets lined with great shops
and unique boutiques and great
gastronomy – then pop Metz on your
must-do Christmas list…
Metz is Christmas central. Not just
one Christmas market here. There
are five Christmas markets spread
around this compact city in a sort
of ring around the great Gothic
Cathedral. It’s easy to visit them all
on foot or hop on the free navette buses
that traverse the city.
Head to Place de la Republique for traditional
chalets specialising in local products and
gorgeous gifts made by local artisans. Warm
up at the German Christmas Pyramid bar
with a steaming hot chocolate or vin chaud.
Did you know that the German pyramid
decorations were the pre-cursor to Christmas
trees – which originated in neighbouring
Alsace in the 16th century? At this market pick
up a brilliant bauble for your tree. Meisenthal
glassware have a chalet at the market – they
are famous in these parts and make wonderful
Christmas family heirloom decorations.
In Place Saint-Louis, is a traditional gifts
Christmas market with a carousel where the
scent of gingerbread will make you smile. In
Place d’Armes, there are more Christmas
chalets and
a Ferris
Wheel from
where you
will have
the most
incredible
views over
the lit up
Cathedral.
And in
Place Saint-
Jacques,
there are
beautiful
specialist
artisan
products on
offer from
food to gifts.
62 | The Good Life France Marché de Noël Place Saint-Louis©Philippe Gisselbrecht
The Good Life France | 63

Sentier des Lanternes
Bubbles
Meanwhile at Place de la Comédie the whole
Christmas market is devoted to food – and it’s
the perfect place to pop for a glass of bubbles,
an aperitif, snack or delicious street food.
Tip: Moselle was an important wine region
in the 18th and 19th centuries producing
Pinot Noir to make Champagne in Reims.
But phylloxera, war and the creation of the
Champagne AOC meant the wines of Moselle
were almost entirely wiped out. In recent years
there has been a resurrection of the vines and
you can now enjoy superb reds, whites, rosés
and even a Moselle sparkling wine…
Bells
Make a stop at the grand Gothic Saint-
Etienne Cathedral in the city centre, a jewel
of a building with a whopping 6,500m²
(1.6 acres) of stained glass windows from the
13th century to the 20th century including
windows by Marc Chagall. All this glorious
glass art has earned the Cathedral the
nickname “The lantern of God”.
Unusually one of the bells of the cathedral rings
out at 9.50pm each night. The bell is named
Anne de Turmel, after the daughter of Joseph
de Turmel who was the mayor of Metz (1816-
1830). Anne was engaged to be married but her
fiancée was attacked and his body thrown in
the river. Legend has it that the Mayor ordered
a 10pm curfew and commissioned a bell to
remind the inhabitants of the time. It’s said that
the heartbroken Anne threw her engagement
ring into the molten liquid of the bell cast. Alas
the legend is untrue, the bell once belonged
to a hospital but was acquired to apparently
remind the Messines – people from Metz – to
clean the streets each morning and to go home
before dark each night!
Sentier des Lanternes – a
luminous Christmas event
As darkness falls, Place Boufflers in the centre
of Metz, a stone’s throw from the Christmas
market in Place de la Republique is transformed
into a magical lantern trail. The ‘lanterns’ are
giant light sculptures – snowflakes, gingerbread
men, elves, toy soldiers, lollipops, teddy bears,
rabbits on scooters. Trees are decorated with
LED lights, so that they look as if they have
come from the Magic Faraway Forest. into a
wonderland of giant light sculptures. In 2021 it
featured more than 1 million LED lights, 2000
lit up figures including a gingerbread house, and
a 4 metre high St Nicolas on his donkey! There
are 9 kilometres of cable involved on an area
of 3000sqm. It’s totally free. 26 November-30
December 2022.
See the Metz Tourist office for details of
Christmas festivities and much more:
tourisme-metz.com
Find out more about Christmas in
Moselle: noelsdemoselle.fr
64 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 65

Frosty cobbled streets,
charming bistros and
picturesque squares lined with
ancient buildings on top of
a hill – Montmartre’s chilly
charms are irresistible.
Winter in
PARIS –
a feast for
the senses
500 years ago, King Francis 1 of France
said “Paris is not a city, it’s a world…” That
still holds true today, and in each season
a different side to the world of Paris is
revealed – especially when winter comes,
bringing a sharp edge to the air, decorating
the streets and buildings with a sparkling
frost and sometimes draping the city in a
blanket of snow.
We asked one of our favourite photographer’s,
Wazim Tagaully, to share some of his favourite
winter wonderland photos of Paris…
Sparkling Galerie Vivienne, a shopping mall built
in the 1820s, is a listed historic monument.
66 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 67

The white stone Basilica of Sacré-Coeur
shimmers in the snow.
The Canal St-Martin, commissioned by Napoleon in 1802, criss-crossed by iron footbridges
glistens with glacial beauty.
In winter when it snows, Paris turns a whiter
shade of pale.
The Eiffel Tower appears to pop its head into
the clouds on cold nights.
Sip seasonal mulled wine in Le Consulat café
in Montmartre, the favourite of many artists,
including Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and
Toulouse-Lautrec.
Wazim Tagaully’s photos can be purchased
at wazim-photos.com and you can follow
him on Instagram @wazou_75
68 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 69

Katja Gaskell goes walk about in the mountains where the sound of music echoes
The most
unusual
walk in
France
The sun is hanging low in the sky when I meet
Alexandre Guhery on a late summer afternoon
at La Ruche à Gîter. The hostel is in the heart
of the Massif de la Chartreuse, a regional
park which straddles the Isère and Savoie
départements in south-eastern France. It’s a
beautiful setting, an emerald green landscape
punctuated by dramatic limestone cliffs and
overlooked by the peaks of Chamechaude,
Grand Som and the Dent de Crolles.
The area is as popular in the summer months
as it is in winter. When the snow melts and
the first signs of spring appear, walking
shoes replace skis and mountain bikes take
the place of snowshoes. It’s a popular spot
for climbing, hiking and even hang gliding.
Today, however, I’m about to embark on a
less traditional mountain pursuit and follow
Alexandre as he leads me on what is possibly
the most unusual walk in France.
Originally from Brittany, Alexandre Guhery
has lived in Chartreuse for more than ten
years, drawn to the region by his love of
the mountains. He’s tall with silver hair, a
boyish grin, and an infectious enthusiasm
for the Great Outdoors. Recently qualified
as a mountain guide, Alexandre now leads
individuals and groups on walking tours
throughout the Chartreuse mountains. So
far, not so unusual. But Alexandre is not just
a hiking guide, he’s also a concert pianist
and last year he decided to combine his love
of music with his love of the mountains and
launched the “Rando’piano”, a guided walk
that ends with an outdoor piano recital, in the
middle of the forest.
There are 15 of us in the assembled group
and we set off with Alexandre guiding us up a
gentle incline and among the beech and pine
trees. The path is uneven and rocky underfoot,
twisting its way around giant boulders, as the
late afternoon sunlight peers through the tree
canopy. We have only been going 20 minutes
when Alexandre tells us to stop, to spread out
and to simply listen to the sounds of the forest.
This idea of pausing to appreciate nature is
a theme that Alexandre returns to regularly
during our time together.
We continue onwards and upwards, the
rocky path eventually giving way to dirt trails
carpeted in fragrant pine leaves. After a
couple more kilometres we are deep within
the Chartreuse Forest. We walk by ancient
trees, past verges thick with nettles that
have grown waist-high, and across meadows
where wildflowers sway in the warm summer
breeze. The forest is the only one within the
French Alps (and the only one of just 15 in
France) to have been given the title Forêt
d’Exception (Exceptional Forest). This label
is awarded to destinations that promote
the forest heritage and marks the forest as
exemplary in sustainable development.
But these trees hide other stories too; in
the 11th century the Carthusian Fathers
established a small community at the foot
of Charmant Som in the village of Saint-
Pierre-de-Chartreuse. From this small
beginning grew a new monastic order that
spread across Europe. Still today some 30
monks live in the Grande Chartreuse, the
head monastery, leading a life of solitude
and silence. They are also the keepers of the
famous Chartreuse liqueur recipe. Monks
have been making this herbal liqueur, the
only one in the world with a natural green
colour, since 1737. The recipe, which blends
70 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 71

130 different plants and herbs, is known only
to a handful of monks.
After two hours of gentle walking (this is very
much a stroll as opposed to a hike) we arrive
at a lookout and see the sun beginning to
set over the lush green valley below. In the
distance is the city of Lyon and the summit of
La Grande Sure, which rises to nearly 2,000
metres. We don’t stay long, however, because
our concert is about to begin. A short walk
from the lookout the last of the sunlight shines
on a large overgrown meadow surrounded by
pine trees where, in the middle, there stands
an upright piano under a bottle-green canopy.
“For me, this walk through the forest is like
walking into a very long concert hall,” explains
Alexandre. “I like spending time with my
audience rather than being thrust straight into
the spotlight.”
To one side of the makeshift stage lie a
handful of yellow and turquoise bean bags.
Some camping chairs have also been set up,
draped in pale yellow blankets to ward off the
inevitable evening chill. We’re each handed a
glass of chilled rose and people bring picnics
out of backpacks, cutting slices of saucisson
and Chartreux cheese, and tearing off pieces
of baguette, while Alexandre prepares himself.
And then the recital begins, and it is nothing
short of magical.
During the 50 minutes that Alexandre
plays, without sheet music, we’re treated to
wonderful renditions of works by composers
including Bach, Brahms and Chopin. The last
of the remaining sunshine quickly disappears
and soon the only light comes from the two
head torches dangling from the ceiling of
the canvas canopy. When we arrived in the
meadow Alexandre had explained that he
would much rather play in the open air but
needs the tent covering to stop humidity
affecting the piano. But as the skies grow ever
darker, I disagree with him, the torches in the
canopy shine like a spotlight on the performer.
The last song, Metamorphosis by Philip Glass,
is a dramatic and soul-stirring finale after
which nobody moves for several minutes.
It’s nearly 10pm by the time the recital finishes
but fortunately the walk back to our original
meeting point is much faster and takes just
25 minutes. We start the descent wearing our
head torches but soon turn these off and let
the light of the stars guide us instead. It seems
only fitting to end the most unusual – and
wonderful – walk in France the way that we
began, very much at one with nature.
Other things to do in the
Chartreuse region
Although the Grande Chartreuse is closed
to visitors, you can walk to the monastery
and see the grounds. Start with a visit to
the Museum of the Grande Chartreuse, for
a better understanding of the mystery of
the Carthusian Order and then walk to the
monastery itself. The walk takes roughly
one hour.
Chartreuse appears on almost every menu
but if spirits aren’t your thing, then don’t worry,
there are plenty of other opportunities to
get a taste of this unique liquor from cheese
to ice cream. One of the best ways to try
Chartreuse is to combine it with chocolate;
visit Chocolaterie Sandrine Chappaz who
create award-winning chocolates including a
Chartreuse cocktail inspired collection.
Housed in the mountain church of Saint-
Pierre-de-Chartreuse is the Arcabas Museum.
The museum is dedicated to the works of the
contemporary French sacred artist Jean-
Marie Pirot, better known as Arcabas. It’s
thought that during his lifetime he created
between 4-5,000 works of art, a fraction of
them are on display here.
Katja Gaskell was a guest of Chartreuse
Tourism and Isere Tourism. Alexandre
Guhery runs organised guided walks
including Rando’piano via his company
L’Oreille du Lynx.
72 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 73

LIMOUX, where
the carnival goes
with a fizz
Colin Duncan Taylor goes to a historic carnival and sips the
oldest sparkling wine in the world.
The town of Limoux lies on the river Aude 25
kilometres upstream from Carcassonne in Aude,
Occitanie. It has two claims to international
fame: its sparkling wine and its carnival.
The longest carnival in the
world
Venice may boast the oldest and Rio the
largest, but Limoux claims to have the longest
carnival in the world. Around 600 dancers
belonging to 30 different troupes ensure that
these festivities can be sustained three times a
day, every weekend – plus Mardi Gras – from
the end of January until early April.
The Carnival of Limoux is unusually compact.
Here, there are no carnival floats, no long
parades. Events unfold in the intimacy of
the medieval square with a graceful beauty
which has been described as a miraculous
combination of immobility and movement.
Join them for a slow dance
Each procession starts at one of the cafés
on the square and continues to the next, and
there are so many watering-holes beneath
the arcades, the road is never a long one.
Typically, the dancers advance around 40
metres in 20 minutes, so spectators have all
the time in the world to take photographs and
admire the masquerade.
Two accessories are essential to the traditional
carnival dancer’s performance. First the wand,
around two metres long and made from reeds
gathered on the Mediterranean coast just
after the first frosts of January. Second, the
confetti bag, coloured to match each dancer’s
costume, and large enough to hold several
kilograms of shredded paper.
The birth of the carnival
The carnival started in the 16th century when
most wind or water mills around Limoux were
worked by tenants. These millers had to pay
their annual rent at the end of winter, and
each year when they had settled their dues,
they celebrated. Legend claims that when, in
1582, this celebration coincided with Mardi
Gras, the millers paraded in the central square
accompanied by oboes, fifes and drums. The
Carnival of Limoux was born.
Rowdy and sometimes
violent
These festivities sometimes turned violent.
Take 1605, for example: there was a torchlit
procession and joyful dancing beneath the
arcades to the music of violin and drums, but
then fighting broke out between rival factions,
and some of the town’s consuls were roughed
up in the melee. In the 18th century, the
74 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 75

Blanquettes de Limoux©Anthony Molina
Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire_2016_ © Alain François Photographies
carnival was often a rowdy affair fuelled by
tensions between the rich and the poor. There
were frequent stand-offs between hatters,
weavers and merchants, and municipal
authorities were jeered and even stoned.
Today, the carnival is a peaceful affair and the
only threat of violence comes on the last night
when the carnival king is tried for his crimes.
Seven judges hear evidence for and against
the poor king, although everyone knows what
the verdict will be. It’s the same every year:
death by burning. Luckily, the king is only a
straw mannequin and he goes up in flames like
a Christmas tree.
The oldest sparkling wine
in the world
The last night of the carnival is known as la
nuit de la blanquette, named in honour of a
sparkling wine called Blanquette de Limoux,
the town’s other claim to fame. Blanquette de
Limoux promotes itself as the oldest sparkling
wine in the world, and there is no better place
to taste it than at the carnival. These festive
companions share a heritage that stretches
back to the 16th century, and according to
some sources, the slow rhythmic gestures
of the carnival dance represent the peasants
pressing the grapes with their feet. But how did
the wine first get its fizz?
The legend of Saint-Hilaire
The Abbey of Saint-Hilaire lies halfway
between Carcassonne and Limoux. It was
founded by Benedictine monks in the early
ninth century. Before long, they were tending
vines, and a document from the year 931
records that a vineyard was donated to the
abbey. In the bedrock beyond the cloisters, the
monks dug out caves, and this is where they
made and stored their wine.
One day in 1531, a monk was sent to fetch
a bottle, and on removing the stopper, he
discovered that a second fermentation had
taken place. The wine was fizzy. By accident,
the monks of Saint-Hilaire had created the
world’s first sparkling wine.
The story does not end there. A century later,
legend has it that the monks received a visit
from one of their brothers in the north. Naturally
they served him their sparkling wine, and the
good Dom Pérignon returned to his monastery
at Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers in Champagne with
the recipe hidden in his habit.
Fake news or hard news?
The first part of this legend gained a little
more credibility when a document dating to
1544 was discovered in 2013. It is a ledger
kept by the Limoux town treasurer, and an
entry records that various wines were supplied
to Sieur d’Arques, and among them were four
pints of blanquette to accompany the good
lord’s dinner (today, Sieur d’Arques is the name
of the main cooperative and it is an excellent
place for a dégustation.)
Unfortunately there was no mention of
the wine being effervescent, or even that it
came from Limoux. Blanquette was the old
name for a local type of vine which is now
called mauzac, and any wine derived from
the mauzac or blanquette vine was also
called blanquette, and although this vine was
primarily cultivated in the Midi, it was not
exclusive to Limoux.
So, although today a wine can only be called
Blanquette de Limoux if it is effervescent
and contains at least 90% mauzac, we know
little about the wine that Sieur d’Arques was
drinking in 1544, apart from its name.
Silencing the doubters
We have to wait until the start of the 19th
century for the first written confirmation
of effervescence: in 1801, a certain Dr Fau
claimed that his sparkling mineral water was
far superior to Blanquette de Limoux with its
frothy fermentation. Some wines from Limoux
were undoubtedly effervescent before then,
but it is impossible to say when this became a
reliable and deliberate characteristic.
In conclusion, although the claims of seniority
made by Blanquette de Limoux remain
unproven, nowhere else has presented a more
credible pitch for the title, Oldest Sparkling
Wine in the World. Come to the carnival,
follow a troupe of dancers into a bar, and you
won’t find anyone who doubts the legend.
After a few glasses, neither will you.
76 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 77

Switzerland - without depending on either
of them.”
Voltaire acquired his estate in 1759 and
restored the existing castle, it’s just a
five-minute drive from the French exit to
Geneva Airport. And it’s here that he found
intellectual freedom, away from the pressures
of Versailles, and where he led his most
productive years until his death in 1778. He
hardly ever left the estate, instead he was
inspired to write, protesting against social
injustice, political and religious intolerance,
mostly through his literary work as well
as letters of activism, which, along with
furnishings of the period and his collection
of portraits and figurines are displayed in the
castle which is now a museum.
HIDDEN GEMS
of FRANCE
Discovering Pays de Gex
© Nicolas Gascard
A spot of wellness
Close by, the spa town of Divonne-les-Bains
is a perfect place to contemplate Voltaire’s
philosophies while sitting on a beach with
a cocktail, watching swimmers and paddle
boarders enjoy the water at your feet. A
couple of palm trees sway in the wind, but
the backdrop doesn’t lie. You’re not in the
tropics but a fountain’s squirt from the French
Alps. Divonne is popular for its thermal
baths, believed to sooth mental and physical
ailments, but if that’s not your thing, maybe
a round of golf at one of the several courses,
or playing blackjack at the Grand Hotel du
Amy McPherson visits the small department of Pays de Gex and finds that
sometimes, small regions are huge fun…
The Pays de Gex in the Ain department,
wedged between Lake Geneva and the Jura
Mountains is bijou and beautiful. Depending
on the season, you could be hiking or skiing a
mere 15 minutes after exiting Geneva airport,
and immediately feel like you’re 1000 miles
away.
And that is exactly what the great French
writer and philosopher Voltaire thought too.
A corner of worldly
influence
François-Marie Arouet, known as Voltaire,
made Ferney, a small hamlet in Pays de
Gex, his retreat in the 18th Century. It was
this ‘between places’ feeling that he desired.
Talking of his castle, he declared “is there
a happier state? I am between France and
Voltair Castle in Ferney
78 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 79

Say Cheese
One of Pays de Gex’s most treasured products
is Bleu de Gex, a raw cow’s milk cheese AOC
(Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée). You are
unlikely to find Bleu de Gex in your average
supermarket because production is limited
and strictly controlled.
Domaine might do the trick too. And for those
who prefer a bit more of an active visit, it’s a
fabulous place for cycling.
Playground Jura
Voltair Castle
north through the forest tracks which are some
of the best Nordic skiing sites in winter, and
for the sake of it, I crossed the Swiss border
at La Cure, before following the shadows of a
setting sun.
You can also traverse the mountains on a
mountain-bike version of an e-scooter called
Ze Trott, which rolls effortlessly up the slopes,
from the top of which you can even spot the
big water fountain in Geneva. The main draw
though, is the Alps. White powdered peaks
cover the horizon even on a hot summer day,
and among the many minor mountains, one
distant peak stands regal: Mont Blanc.
“When farmers taste cheese that they think
is not good enough, they throw it away
rather than pass it on for others to taste,”
says Nicolas Guitton, a proud member of the
region’s Bleu de Gex Brotherhood.
When a cheese has its own fraternity, you
know it’s a serious business.
Armed with a plateful of differently aged
Blue de Gex, I was taught the correct way to
appreciate the taste.
“It’s about the feeling, smell and texture.
The test is simple. Squeeze, smell it to see
if it makes you feel you’re wrapped in the
mountains and then taste it.”
© OTI Pays de Gex Monts Jura
Pays de Gex is a place where size doesn’t
matter. With so much packed into this
relatively unknown corner of France, it is no
wonder that even the Swiss are tempted to
cross over the borders to enjoy many of its
attractions.
Find out more about Pays de Gex at:
paysdegex-montsjura.com
The Jura Mountain range cascades from the
Bern area in Switzerland, pouring itself into
France through three departments, before
ending in Ain, with the highest point of the
Jura rising in Pays de Gex. It’s in the heart of
one of the largest National Nature Reserves
in France, laced with hiking trails, and is
perfectly located for mountain sports. Here
you’ll find one of the longest rail toboggan
runs in Europe, as well as France’s steepest
zipline at the Col de la Faucille, a ski area
in winter, active adventures playground in
summer.
Riding an e-bike hired from Le Tiapi Sports in
Mijoux, a pretty village where many houses
feature colourful frescoes representing trades
of yesteryear, I sped along narrow country
roads. Accompanied by the sound of tinkling
cow bells, I admired the hills from the floor
of the valley, just under the Crêt de la Neige,
the highest point of the Jura Massif. Heading
A fort that held its ground
Actually, you can see Mont Blanc from
almost any high ground in Pays de Gex, as I
discovered after climbing 1000 steps to the
top of Fort l’Ecluse which clings onto the rocky
face of the Jura at the very southern tip of
Pays de Gex, with the Rhône River glistening
90 metres below. It once functioned as a
defensive fort, as well as a tax border between
Geneva and France. The road that used to run
through the fort was the only way in and out
of France before modern roads were built, and
this “Pas de la Cruse” was first mentioned by
Julius Caesar in 58BC.
A self-guided tour takes you through tunnels
and up and down steep stairs where soldiers
used to have to carry cannons to different
parts of the fort using a labour-intensive rope
system. The fort is now famous for its annual
Jazz festival.
80 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 81

Food writer and Toulouse local Ally Mitchell takes you on a tour through Toulouse’s gutbusting
and most delicious must try foods.
A Taste
of
FRANCE
Taste Toulouse:
10 pink city…
legendary foods
of the
France is without a doubt a world leader in
culinary excellence. It’s the country with the
most Michelin stars throughout Europe – 627
currently – and can proudly declare some
of the most iconic foods in the world as their
own. Pleasure is on the menu across the
country with regional specialities owning star
status.
Temptations of tasty
Toulouse
Toulouse, nicknamed la ville rose thanks to
its many buildings in magnificent shades of
pink through terracotta, is a city of winding
cobbled streets, timber-framed houses - and
a bustling food scene. The city’s delicious
temptations are irresistible even if, as you’re
about to find out, they might add a few
pounds! Some of these recommendations are
heavy with regional significance, while others
demonstrate the city’s expanding menu to
cater to all tastes. Most importantly, these 10
foods are tributes to France’s delicious cuisine
– and put Toulouse firmly on the food map.
Cassoulet First is, of course, cassoulet. If
you visit Toulouse without trying this famous
regional delicacy, then your experience is
incomplete! To say the southern cassoulet
is hearty is an understatement. It is a
celebration of meat, surrounded by baked
white beans which, thanks to their thin skins,
soak up all the rich flavours. Cassoulet
originated in the medieval era as peasant
food and cities across the region all serve
their own versions with either mutton, duck
or goose. In Toulouse cooking it is considered
an art, often presented with a saucisse de
Toulouse as well as the preferred meat of the
chef, duck confit. Cooked low and slow, the
dish is meltingly soft.
Saucisse de Toulouse Dating back 250
years, saucisse de Toulouse is sold in coils, like
a pink pudgy snake. Made from pork mince,
pork belly and the butcher’s own ‘secret’
seasonings, it is an essential ingredient in the
regional cassoulet but is also delicious fried.
Magret de Canard And yes, the meat
continues! An iconic dish of the south-west
magret de canard – seared duck breast – is
one of the most revered dishes across France.
Cooked like a steak, duck breast is pan-fried
82 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 83

Place du Capitole CAR© Arnaud Späni
Trafic%5D-%5Bthegoodlife_france%5D-%5B300x-
250%5Duntil
the skin is crisp and golden, and the meat
is served blush pink and sliced. You’ll find it
on the menu of almost every restaurant in
Toulouse.
Charcuterie While on the subject of meat,
don’t miss the charcuterie of Toulouse. Local
bars serve your aperitif with cured and cold
meats and pâtés, most of which are local or
market purchases.
Don’t miss Marché Victor Hugo, everywhere
you look there are saucissons and dried
shoulders of jambon hanging from the ceiling
and terrines, rillettes and pâté enshrined in
glass cabinets.
Cheese While wandering those hallowed
aisles of Marché Victor Hugo, the fromageries
will be calling your name! France and its
estimated 1600 types of fromage go hand
in hand. Try Pavé Toulousain, a cube shaped
cows cheese whose edible grey rind resembles
a brick.
Sandwiches. The sublime baguette avec
jambon et beurre served with cornichons
epitomises the rustic simplicity of French
cuisine. In Toulouse delicatessens reach
new heights using a bounty of quality
chorizo, serrano ham and Manchego from
neighbouring Spain, as well as dried duck as a
tribute to its Toulousain roots.
Vegetarian food You might be wondering if
you’ll starve during your visit to Toulouse if you
don’t eat meat. And if you need a break from
the region’s rich treats, no one could blame
you. Rest assured, many restaurants cater for
vegetarians and vegans.
Pastries At last, the dessert course! The act of
eating a sweet pick-me-up is a serious pastime
here. Try Poussin Bleu or Le Pâtisserie Conté
for exquisite éclairs and other impressive
patisserie pleasures!
Chocolatines This is a controversial topic! In
the south of France, pain aux chocolats are
called chocolatines. Keep your eyes open for
chocolatines that are crisp and glossy and
packed with painstakingly folded layers (try Le
Péché Mignon).
Fruit and vegetables After all the pastries,
cheese and meat, you’ll be waddling.
However, Toulouse has options! Throughout
the summer, peaches, apricots and nectarines
adorn market shelves before figs and plums
appear in the autumn.
Toulouse has something for all tastes!
84 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 85

Finding Napoleon
in Paris
State of a teenaged
Napoleon (Valence)
As a teenager, Napoleon was sent to Paris to
train at the École Militaire, which still stands
at the opposite end of the Champs de Mars
from the Eiffel Tower. He left hurriedly just a
year later, having graduated 48th in a class
of 56 and returned to Corsica to help his
family in the aftermath of his father’s death.
At that point no-one – not even he, though
he had a high opinion of himself – had any
idea of the enormous influence he would go
on to have on the city of Paris. Today there
are many places you can visit to piece his
story together says Marion Jones…
Following his military successes in the
1790s, Napoleon was voted Consul for Life
in 1802, and his self-belief reached epic
proportions. His coronation as emperor in
December 1804 in Notre Dame Cathedral
can be seen in a painting by Jacques-
Louis David, commissioned by the emperor
himself, in the Louvre. Napoleon invited the
pope to crown him but decided to show his
superior authority by turning his back on the
pontiff and placing the crown on his own
head and then placing a crown on the head
of his kneeling wife, his beloved Josephine.
The enormous statue of Napoleon in the
middle of Place Vendôme, near the Ritz
Hotel was erected at Napoleon’s behest
to celebrate his 1805 victory at the Battle
of Austerlitz. There is nothing remotely
modest about it. Napoleon stands dressed
as a Roman Emperor atop a 40m high
column. It is decorated with bronze reliefs
portraying scenes from the battle, made
from hundreds of canons captured from the
defeated Russian and Austrian armies. Quite
a message. The whole thing was briefly torn
down in the 1870s, criticised during the Paris
Commune as a ‘symbol of despotism’, but reinstated
just a few years later.
Two more monuments Napoleon
commissioned in his own honour are the Arcs
de Triomphe. The smaller Arc de Triomphe
du Carrousel, built in pink marble in 1806
stands at the Louvre end of the Jardin des
Tuileries. The much larger and better-known
86 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 87

Arc de Triomphe, stands at the end of the
Champs-Élysées. Napoleon promised his
troops at Austerlitz that they would have the
honour of ‘going home beneath triumphal
arches’ and building began when the first
stone was laid on his birthday, August 15th,
1806. But it took decades to be completed
and was only finally inaugurated in 1840 when
Napoleon’s coffin was carried beneath it to
reach his final resting place at Les Invalides.
A visit to the Château de Malmaison, the
country retreat Napoleon bought because
Josephine fell in love with it, gives an insight
into a more personal side of his story. Some
of its rooms are very Napoleonic in style.
The Salle de Conseil (meeting room) is
decorated to resemble a military tent and the
large library houses his desk and some 500
books, which are leather-bound and bear his
monogram, B-P for Bonaparte. Upstairs is
the Arms Room where you can see another
Jacques-Louis David painting, ‘Napoleon
crossing the Alps’, and the Austerlitz table,
commissioned by Napoleon, on which a large
central portrait of him is surrounded by smaller
pictures of the generals who helped him win
the battle.
Chateau de Malmaison
Napoleon’s library Fontainebleau
Place de Vendome
© Marc Bertrand,
Paris Tourist Office
Arc de Triomphe © Jacques Lebar, Paris Tourist Office
Les Invalides © Daniel Thierry, Paris Tourist Office
l’Armée. There are displays of some of his
field equipment, medals, clothes, and one of
his famous bicorn hats. More widely, there
are displays of the weapons and uniforms of
his day. And, connected to the Invalides is
the magnificent Église du Dôme where his
tomb is on display in the middle of a vast
circular domed hall. By the time his body was
returned from exile 19 years after his death,
the Bourbon royal family was back on the
throne, but half a million people still turned
out to line the streets to honour this former
Emperor of France.
In the space beneath his tomb the wall is
decorated with some of his words, expressing
what he saw as his legacy. His Code
Napoleon, which revolutionised the laws of
France did, he said, more good for France
than all the laws which preceded it. His
reign, in his own words, had ‘left well-being
everywhere’. Immodest, yes, but there is no
doubting Napoleon’s lasting legacy to France
and to Paris, where his presence can be seen if
you know where to look.
On the ground floor are the dining room,
where they hosted candlelight dinners for
important visitors from Paris, music room
and billiards room. Upstairs are sumptuously
decorated bedchambers, extensive wardrobes
and dressing rooms - important to Josephine
who once bought 520 pairs of shoes in a
single year.
The Château of Fontainbleau, previously a
royal palace attracted Napoleon as soon as
he became emperor and he had the French
Revolution-damaged castle repaired and
refurbished. There are mementoes ranging
from paintings to pieces of his furniture and his
coronation sword. It was here that Napoleon
signed his abdication in 1814 and made a moving
farewell speech to his Old Guard before leaving
France for exile on the Island of Elba.
It is fitting to end a tour of Napoleon’s Paris
at Les Invalides, home to the Musée de
88 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 89

Fabulous gifts that are perfect for Francophiles
and some great giveaways…
Dreamy French prints and scarfs
Artist Julie has a penchant for Paris. Her watercolours and prints capture
the whimsical allure of French style of the 18th and 19th centuries and
feature icons such as the Eiffel Tower, macarons, ballerinas,
Marie-Antoinette and her own creation, a fictional character
named Manon and cat called Gigi.
Find these and all of Manon Boudoir’s products
in the online boutique: manonboudoir.com
Art print “Afternoon nap– an
episode from the carefree life of
Manon and Gigi”
France Media’s FRANCE Calendar
is perfect for Francophiles
Enjoy France every day with the FRANCE
Calendar 2023 available to order now!
The FRANCE 2023 Calendar is a fantastic
year-long reminder of the France you
love. This popular year-planner shows the
best of France through 14 stunning glossy
photographs, brought to you by the FRANCE
Calendar team.
The FRANCE 2023 Calendar is the perfect gift for family and friends, or even yourself!
francemedia.shop/products/france-calendar-2023
Art print “I want candy” – Inspired
by the iconic Sofia Coppola’s movie
“Marie Antoinette”
Silk foulard “Parisian Treats, Saint
Honore and Champagne”,
Limited edition design
Art print “Emma’s tea party” -
inspired by the movie of the same
name directed by Autumn de Wilde
Silk foulard “Parisian Treats,
Macarons and Rose Petals”,
Limited edition design
The Wine lover’s dream gift: SomMailier USA
SomMailier.com is a French Wine Club in the USA. Become a member
and every three months you’ll receive three, six or twelve bottles of
boutique French wines. Every handcrafted bottle has been carefully
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information about wine and food pairing ideas to help you really
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any product – on the check-out page just use the code TGLF2022
for 2022 orders, or TGLF2023 for 2023 orders: sommailier.com
GIVEAWAY
Win a copy of Daisy and the Missing Mona Lisa by JT Allen – perfect for teenagers!
Miss Daisy Tannenbaum, almost thirteen, and home-schooling in Paris with her Aunt Millicent,
takes a break from the City of Light and her dreaded math homework, and heads to a
rambling chateau in the Loire Valley to help her Aunt Mill’s friend, former-spy
Felix, catalog his art collection. But when Daisy receives a copy of the Mona
Lisa as a thank you, strange things start to happen. Real or not, it’s worth a
fortune, and when Felix suddenly dies, his family accuses Daisy of stealing it.
She must navigate a world of crazy, scheming, often criminal adults, not to
mention traveling ghosts, ginormous pigs, testy lawyers, former spies, and
obnoxious fashionistas in a harrowing chase in and around Paris…
Perfect for tweens and teens, but also a guilty pleasure for all lovers of
Paris, click here to enter the draw to win a copy of the book (print or
ebook – your choice). Click here to enter the draw
GIVEAWAY
Win a copy of Samantha Verant’s new novel “The Spice Master at
Bistro Exotique”. A talented chef discovers how spices and scents can
transport her – and, more importantly, how self-confidence can unlock
the greatest magic of all: love – in this perfectly seasoned book.
We’ve got 2 copies to give away.
Click here to enter the draw
Love Photos of France?
Wazim Tagaully’s gorgeous photographic prints of Paris
and France make for stunning artworks… Find out more:
wazim-photos.com
90 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 91

GIVEAWAY
Win a gorgeous set of luxurious bedding
from La Chambre Paris
Enter the draw to receive a gorgeous set of
bed linen from La Chambre Paris. One lucky
winner will receive a full bed set of 1 x duvet
cover, 1 x fitted sheet and 2 x pillowcases in
Percale or Sateen in a colour of your choice
worth €276. La Chambre Paris will also pay
for the shipping to any country within Europe/America. Competition closes on 31 January 2022
Enter the draw- click here.
The perfect short break suitcase
Level 8’s carry on suitcase with
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wheels too. Find details of this and all their
lovely luggage here: lecvel8cases.com
For the wine lover who has everything
A state of the art
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This premium, sleek
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You can charge it up, pop
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take it out the garden,
put it on the dinner table.
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fabulously easy.
Insurance services for English speakers in France
Speak to a dedicated English-speaking Broker who’s
also a French native speaker so to avoid the pitfalls and
headaches of the French system.
Medical Insurance
Home Insurance
Car Insurance
Visa Insurance
Perfectly pretty Provence gifts
L’Auguste Provence’s gorgeous meaningful
hand-crafted gifts featuring a selection of
exclusive artwork and the prettiest Provence
lavender bags as well as travel kits, silk eye
masks, tote bags, pouches and cushions.
A little bit of Provence, wherever you are.
Details: laugusteprovence.com
GIVEAWAY
Win a copy of the Bird
Watcher’s Wife by Gayle
Padgett. When her husband
proposes a year long quest
to indulge his passion and
find 200 bird species
in France, Gayle uses
the time to visit ancient
hilltop villages, vibrant
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92 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 93

What’s
New?
Winter 2022
Les Deux Magots © Paris Tourist Office Photographer Daniel Thierry
There’s plenty going on throughout
Winter in France – here’s our pick of
some of the best and new events this
season…
National Events
25 December Christmas Day –
National Holiday
1 January New Year’s Day – National Holiday
2 February – La Chandeleur/pancake day
14 February Valentine’s Day
Major Events
Christmas markets
This year the Christmas markets are back in
full swing in France – full of festive, fabulous
fun. Be aware that as part of the energy
savings plan being encouraged in France
Christmas lights are generally going to be
turned off earlier than usual for instance in
Paris where the Christmas display lights will
be switched off at 11.45 pm instead of the
usual 2am.
Read our ultimate guide to Christmas in
France, 2022
Fete des Dindes, Licques, Pas-de-Calais |
10-11 December 2022
A truly charming festival where turkeys are
celebrated in the little town of Licques (around
30 minutes by car from Calais). There’s a
gastronomic fair with wine tasting and food
for all your Christmas luxuries and on Sunday
morning around 11am, hundreds of turkeys are
released to “rampage” through the streets
accompanied by local brotherhoods and
dignitaries in all their finery!
paysdopale-tourisme.fr
Sarlat Truffle Festival, Dordogne |
14-5 January 2023
Indulge in truffle flavoured gourmet
specialities at the big and festive truffle
market on the middle weekend of January
in the enchanting medieval town of Sarlat.
Music, workshops and a festive atmosphere
make this a brilliantly fun event.
sarlat-tourisme.com
Comic Festival, Angoulême, Poitou-
Charentes | 26-29 January 2023
The 50th edition of the Festival International
de la Bande Dessinée (Comic Festival)
draws huge crowds of fans. Competitions
for amateurs and enthusiasts, meet the
professionals, watch them work and ask
questions. The famous comic museum is an
absolutely must see for all fans of the art.
bdangouleme.com
Nice Carnival | 10 – 26 February 2023
Processions, flower parades and flower
battles, rock, pop, fireworks and giants. Blow
the winter cobwebs away at one of the most
colourful and glamorous of all the French
carnivals. nicecarnaval.com
Major exhibitions
William Morris: Art in Everything, La
Piscine Museum, Roubaix, Hauts-de-
France until 8 January 2023
The world famous museum presents the work
of William Morris (1834-1896) for the first time
in France. Roubaix-lapiscine.com
2023
The 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance car
race will celebrate its 100th anniversary race
in Le Mans, 10-11 June 2023.
Tour de France 2023 will take place from
1-23 July starting in Bilbao in Spain and
ending as always in the Champs-Elysees,
Paris. The riders will pedal right across France
from Bordeaux through Limoges, volcanic Puy
de Dome, Burgundy and the French Alps.
The 2023 Rugby World Cup will be held
in France from 8 September – 28 October
2023. 20 countries will compete in more
than 45 matches hosted in nine French cities
and venues. The opening match will see the
home team “Les Bleus” take on the formidable
“All Blacks” of New Zealand at the Stade de
France, Paris.
94 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 95

Your Photos
Eiffel Tower, Paris.
Did you know that Gustave
Eiffel footed 80% of the tower’s
construction costs? In return a
licence was granted for him to let
it stand for 20 years to recoup his
expenses! Photo: @Rom1G18
Every weekend we invite you to
share your photos on Facebook
and Twitter – it’s a great way for
everyone to “see” real France
and be inspired by real travellers
snapping pics as they go. Every
week there are utterly gorgeous
photos being shared, and here we
showcase just a few of the most
popular. Share your favourite
photos with us and the most ‘liked’
will appear in the next issue of
The Good Life France Magazine
Brittany, Côtes d'Armor
The house between the rocks,
Gouffre de Plougrescant is located
on the north coast of Brittany.
Photo: Basia Michalowska
Bormes-les-Mimosas, Provence
A reminder that spring is on the way, the
mimosa flowers in the south of France
from January to the end of March.
Photo Francine Varner
Join us on Facebook and
Twitter to like and share
your favourite photos of
France...
96 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 97 Chamonix

Inspiration for your
travels to France
in 2023
French Alps
Planning or dreaming of a visit to France
– we’ve handpicked the best tours and
the best places to stay…
THE BEST TOURS
CroisiEurope – the best cruises in France
CroisiEurope are the largest cruise operator
in France, and their tours are unbeatable.
Sail the rivers, canals and Mediterranean Sea
and discover the culture, gastronomy and
cultural wealth of France. Enjoy all-inclusive
life onboard with the finest food and wines
and fabulous tours that take you to the heart
of each destination. No stressing, no driving,
no wondering how to fit in all the glorious
must-see places or how to reach the off the
beaten track gems, CroisiEurope’s cruises and
excursions take you to the very best of France
– in style.
croisieurope.co.uk
Gascony
Day trips and tour packages all over
France, plus brilliant shore excursions
Ophorus Tours are a French family run
business with huge experience of running
small group tours all over France as well as
shore excursions. There is a huge choice
of tours from fun and informative guided
walking city tours to very carefully crafted
multi regional packages, wine tasting, cycling
and more. Their aim is to show you France as
they believe it should be shown – authentic,
colourful and friendly.
www.ophorus.com
Battlefield tours and historical travel
experiences
Sophie’s Great War Tours are tailor-made
historical travel experiences. This family-run
specialist tour operator creates exceptional
WWI and WWII battlefields tours across
France, Belgium and the Netherlands. Travel
at your pace and explore the destinations
you really want to get to know, at a time to
suit you. Sophie will research the history and
background of soldiers so that each battlefield
tour is a personal historical experience. Her
team can also include additional experiences
to suit you such as chateau visits in the Loire,
Champagne tastings in Champagne and a
classic car tour in Provence. Every itinerary is
created to be perfect – for you.
sophiesgreatwartours.com
Tours for those who love the authentic
Discover the real southern France – from
captivating Carcassonne to magical
Montpellier, or the best of Provence and the
lavender fields, Normandy, Bordeaux and
Dordogne. On these luxury, small group tours
you’ll get to be a temporary local and indulge
in the best gastronomy, discover the beauty
and culture of France...
www.tripusafrance.com
Outstanding Rhone Valley Wine Tours
The Rhone Valley is the ultimate wine lovers
destination. And there’s no better way to
discover this beautiful area of Provence and
its vineyards than with a three day tour with
a local expert guide. This is a unique chance
to experience the real Provence. You’ll meet
local wine makers, visit the grand domaines
and famous estates. And of course, taste the
very best wines and cuisine to match.
rhonewineholidays.com
Fabulous Food Tours of Dordogne
Unique and utterly scrumptious gastronomic
day tours of Dordogne. You’ll be transported
by 2CV through the glorious Dordogne
landscape to visit the most amazing foodie
destinations and taste local specialities
including truffles, caviar and wine. Visit
castles, breath-takingly pretty villages,
vineyards, churches, manors and mills.
perigourmet.com
Carcassonne © Paul Palau
Year round themed and bespoke small
group tours of Provence
Small group tours and customized travelling to
give you memories to last a lifetime. Discover
the best of Provence: Lavender tours, truffle
hunting, grape harvest, and bespoke tours as
well as chauffeur services for day trips or a lot
longer. Emily Durand’s Private Provence tours
are unique, exclusive and truly fabulous.
yourprivateprovence.com
Gascony, the Basque country, Provence
and southern France
Nourish your soul and unleash your spirit of
adventure in Gascony. You’ll experience the
famous food, wine and Armagnac of the region
and discover where to find the best antique
shops and flea markets, the most beautiful
villages and magnificent chateaux. From one
day to weeklong tours that are customised for
you. There are also tours of Provence, southern
France and the Basque country.
frenchcountryadventures.com
Culture & cookery tours in Provence
Cooking classes with chefs in their homes where
you’ll cook “authentic French dishes, no frou-frou”
says host Martine Bertin-Peterson. You’ll shop
at the enchanting street markets with chefs
and dine at the most scrumptious restaurants in
beautiful towns of Provence on this fully escorted
delicious and cultural trip of a lifetime.
goutetvoyage.com
Tailor made tours and itineraries to suit you
Want to take a trip in France that’s totally
about what you want to see and do. RNI Travel
98 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 99

create bespoke itineraries for visits all over
France including Normandy, Paris, French
Riviera and the wine region of Bordeaux.
They’ll oversee everything for you – book
your flights, hire car and guided tours, they
plan your route based on what you want to
see and do, and they recommend, or book
if you prefer, hotels and restaurants. All the
hard work and uncertainty of where to go
and where to stay is removed. You just have
to relax and enjoy the trip of a lifetime.
RNItravel.com
‘Real’ South of France Tours
Occitanie – formerly Languedoc-Roussillon
and Midi-Pyrenees – is to many the real
south of France. Full of hidden gems and
home to captivating Carcasssonne, the
vineyards of Saint-chinian where some of
the very best wines in France are produced,
the historic town of Perpignan and more.
The Real South of France Tours 6 and 7 day
small group tours take you to the heart of
this area and reveal its innermost, delicious
and fascinating secrets. Discover real
France with ‘Real’ South of France Tours…
realsouthoffrancetours.fr
SUPERB STAYS
Gorgeous chalets, villas and apartments
in the Alps and beyond
Thinking of spending some winter
wonderland time in the snowy Alps?
OVO Network’s exclusive, handpicked
and frankly gorgeous chalets, villas and
apartments in stunning locations turn a
holiday into a dream. There’s not much that
beats sitting in a hot tub or swimming in
your private heated pool as soft snowflakes
fall silently around you. The Alps are
brilliant way to spend Christmas, see in
the new year and enjoy quality time with
your family, friends and even your dog (pet
friendly chalets await!).
ovonetwork.com
Cognac no. 22 – luxury farmhouse in
Charente-Maritime
A 19th century traditional farmhouse with
a luxurious pool is in a tranquil village
surrounded by vineyards and fields of summer
sunflowers. Close to the Charente River and
the market towns of Rouillac and Matha, this
gorgeous holiday rental is ideally situated for
trips to the historic towns of Cognac, St Jean
d ‘Angely, Saintes and Angoulême and the
Atlantic Coast beaches.
Cognac-no22.com
Stunning B&B near Bergerac, Chateau
Masburel
With honey-toned stone walls and sage-green
shutters, the 18th Chateau de Masburel wine
domaine and B&B, has a timeless, unhurried
feel to it. It’s a working winery producing
award winning wines. Close to Bergerac,
Saint-Emilion and ten minutes from the
bastide town of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande on the
banks of the River Dordogne in the Gironde.
it’s the perfect base to explore the area and
enjoy a relaxing break.
Chateau-masburel.com
Gorgeous gite in a wine making village in
Burgundy
La Maison des Chaumes is a bright and
charming gite in the charming winemaking
village of Villers-la-Faye in the Côte de Nuits.
It’s minutes away from Burgundy’s crown jewel
– historic Beaune, and just up the hill from the
famed vineyards of Nuits-Saint-Georges and
Aloxe-Corton.
lamaisondeschaumes.com
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100 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 101

8
Winter Feel Good
Films to Watch and
LEARN FRENCH
Stoke the fire and gather round the TV,
popcorn et chocolat chaud at the ready.
We’ve compiled a list of our favourite
winter feel good films to watch and study
French. We’ll start with our ‘winter warmer’
movies, before listing some Christmas
classics to get you in the festive spirit!
Learning through film is one of the most
effective ways to study a language. Not
only will you learn ‘real’ French vocabulary
in context, you’ll also have great fun as you
immerse yourself in French culture.
Winter Warmers
1. Amélie – 2001
Amélie is one of French international
cinema’s biggest successes. Following the
death of Princess Diana, Amélie decides
to help those around her by secretly
orchestrating their lives. She soon realises
she has been neglecting her own interests,
and her quirky would-be lover in the
process.
3. Les Émotifs anonymes
(Romantics Anonymous) – 2010
Angélique, a master chocolatier, and
chocolate factory owner Jean-René, are too
shy to admit their love for each other. The film
follows their awkward journey as their feelings
develop for one another.
4. Intouchables (The Untouchables) – 2011
This comedy drama follows the story of
a Parisian aristocrat and his live-in carer
following a paragliding accident. A touching
story about the bond formed between two
men who would never have usually met!
5. Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis
(Welcome to the Sticks) – 2008
Despite living a comfortable life in the
picturesque Salon-de-Provence, Julie has
been suffering from depression for a long time.
To help his wife feel better, Julie’s postmaster
husband plots a move for the family.
Christmas Classics
6. Le père Noël est une ordur
(Santa Claus Is a Stinker) – 1982
Two workers at a suicide prevention hotline on
Christmas eve get the shock of their lives as a
pregnant woman, her abusive boyfriend and a
transvestite visit their offices.
7. L'apprenti Père Noël
(Santa’s Apprentice) – 2010
Although Santa doesn’t want to retire, rules
dictate that he must find his successor! An
animated Christmas classic, follow the story
of a young, shy boy in Australia who could
become Santa’s next apprentice.
8. Un conte de Noël
(A Christmas Tale) – 2008
A French family is caught in deep Christmas
friction as the matriarch Junon asks her
children and grandchildren if they are eligible
to become her bone marrow donor.
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2. Populaire (Popular) – 2012
Rose applies to be a secretary at an
insurance firm run by Louis. Louis soon
discovers that Rose is an extremely fast
typer, using only two fingers. He urges her
to enter a speed typing competition if she
wants the job, and soon he is training her to
Sète become the fastest typer in the world.
102 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 103

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Le Havre © F. Godard Normandy Tourist Board
The path of
the river SEINE
Joanna Leggett explores the fascinating history of the river Seine and some of its
most magical ports of call…
The River Seine is France’s second largest
river, from Source-Seine to Le Havre is 780
kilometres and with its tributaries, it drains
an area of almost 79,000 square kilometres.
And, of course, it flows through the Île-de
France, the nation’s heartland and major
metropolitan region. Much of the river is
navigable, for the tidal section of the Seine
Maritime is followed by a canalised section
where locks lift river boats up to the level
of the river in Paris, and then it continues
towards Champagne and Burgundy.
The Seine has long had fans – the
Impressionists painted it time and time again.
In fact impressionism was born from a painting
of Le Havre harbour by Monet which he
named ‘Impression, Sunrise’ in 1874. The list
of names is almost a roll call of some of the
greatest in the world, from works by JMW
Turner to Van Gogh, Renoir, Sisley, Monet,
Manet and Renoir. Then there were the Post
Impressionists from Boudin to Matisse. They
portrayed changing seasons, river and port
activities, Seine-side pastimes and places
where artists stayed or sometimes someone
just rowing along the river (as magically
captured by Caillebotte) while perfectly
attired in top hat, cravat, waistcoat and
104 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 105

striped shirt! Then there is Seurat’s ‘Sunday
Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte’
set on an island in the Seine with everyone
formally attired with hats, parasols with
dresses boasting some very impressive bustles.
The Seine actually rises a long, long way
southeast of Paris (it takes a good three hours
flat out on motorways just to get there) in the
commune of Source-Seine northwest of Dijon.
The spring here is just a trickle, however there
is an artificial grotto which includes a statue of
a nymph, dog and naturally for good measure
a dragon! Apparently on the same site are
the buried remains of a Gallo-Roman temple
(of course the Romans were here first!) while
small statues of the ‘Seine Goddess’ and other
votive offerings found here are now housed in
the museum at Dijon. The name of the river
actually comes from the Latin Sëquana, who
was goddess of the river.
As its path meanders seawards, it leaves the
region of Burgundy and enters Champagne
above Troyes while other rivers join along the
way, perhaps the most well-known of these the
Troyes
Rouen
Marne which joins just as it enters Paris!
Troyes is a delightful medieval town awash
with half-timbered buildings, the heart of
the city coincidentally has the characteristic
shape of a Champagne cork. Here there are
narrow streets, grand 16th century mansions
and beautiful churches.
Les Andelys, near Giverny, Normandy
Then the river winds onwards, past woods
around Fontainebleau until it reaches Paris.
Dividing the city in two, in fact it borders 10
of Paris’ 20 arrondissements and is the city’s
chief commercial waterway. People are either
on its Left or Right Bank. There are 37 bridges
in Paris – the oldest being the Pont Neuf. One
of the most popular bridge is the pedestrian
Pont des Arts which was once smothered with
locks attached by trysting lovers – by 2014
these had got so heavy part of the parapet
collapsed so now lovers have to take a selfie
instead, though it’s said if you kiss someone
as you sail under the Pont Neuf – you are
bound to return to Paris! There are floating
restaurants, discos, expensive cafés and all
sorts of wonderful places to explore along the
banks in Paris.
From Paris the river runs seawards in great
loops through Normandy, past châteaux
and Giverny where Claude Monet lived and
gardened. Onwards it flows through a series of
locks to the heart of Normandy and its capital,
Rouen. It was here Joan of Arc met her sad
end, and it’s said that what was left of her
ashes were tipped into the Seine.
The river passes through the ancient and truly
charming town of Honfleur. Seated at a café
106 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 107

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with a glass of pommeau (the apple-based
apéro traditional to Normandy) beside the
Vieux-Bassin lined with ancient townhouses
watching the sun set, is one of those memorable
moments that stay with you forever.
Then it flows under the Pont de Normandie
in Le Havre, one of the longest cable-stayed
bridges the world, high and wide enough to
allow ocean going vessels to pass beneath
to travel onwards. By this time the Seine
has become a wide, mighty confluence and
here it empties out into the Channel, it’s
journey ended.
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108 | The Good Life France
The Good Life France | 109

Your one stop shop for the finest quality
food from Britain and Ireland.
Snow Eggs
Ouefs à la neige
WE OFFER THE LARGEST REFRIGERATED HOME DELIVERY
NETWORK ACROSS MAINLAND EUROPE.
Quality Fresh Beef, Pork and Lamb, Cheeses, Clotted Cream,
Fresh Cream, Pies, Sausages, Bacon, Pudding, Tea & Coffee, Sauces,
Crisps & Chocolate, plus Vegetarian and Vegan products
Free home delivery France, Belgium & Luxembourg
baconbythebox.com
A floating island of sweet meringue in
creamy crème anglaise – French custard!
INGREDIENTS
½ litre milk
1 vanilla pod
4 eggs – separate the yolks from the whites
120g sugar
Pinch of salt
METHOD
Prepare the custard first. Split the vanilla pod
in half. Heat with the milk. As soon as the milk
begins to boil, remove the vanilla pods and
take the milk off the heat.
Separately beat the egg yolks and 50 g of
sugar for 5 minutes. Slowly pour in the still hot
milk, whisking constantly. Reheat everything
over a low heat, stirring. As soon as the foam
disappears from the surface, remove from
heat – it’s ready to serve.
For the snow: Whip the egg whites until stiff
and add a pinch of salt. Once the ‘snow’ is
firm, add the remaining 70g of sugar. Whisk
for 1 minute until very stiff.
For soft meringue: In a pan, pour 5 cm of
water. Simmer the water. Make ‘snowballs’ or
‘eggs’ using two tablespoons to mould them.
Place the meringues in the water and be
careful to not let the balls touch each other!
Cook for about one minute, turn them over
and cook for another minute. Remove them
then drain them delicately.
If you want crunchy meringues: place
a lightly oiled mould onto a rack inside a
roasting tin. Pour boiling water to the height
of the rack. Pipe the meringue mix into the
moulds and bake for 10 minutes.
Place the snow on the custard. You can
decorate with caramel, fruit etc.
110 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 111

Hazelnut Praline or
Praliné Noisette
INGREDIENTS
300g/10.5oz raw hazelnuts
37.5ml/2.5 tablespoons water
200g/7oz raw/golden caster sugar
METHOD
Preheat oven to 160˚C/325˚F.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 30 minutes
Portions: 25 x 1
Tablespoon portions
A quick and easy very delicious praline
recipe by Kit Smyth. Often used in
patisserie recipes, it’s also great for
making praline shards for decadent
desserts or cake decorations. Use
carefully, as it is strongly flavoured,
and will add a generously nutty flavour
to any dessert.
Line a baking tray/sheet with parchment,
place the nuts on the tray and pop in the oven
for around 10 minutes, mixing them up halfway
through.
When the time is up, and the hazelnuts are
fragrant, place them into a clean tea towel,
and rub vigorously to remove as much of the
skin as possible. The more peeling you can do,
the smoother the paste will be at the end.
In a non-stick saucepan, add the water and
sugar and bring to a simmer to dissolve the
sugar. Keep the liquidised sugar on the heat,
increasing it slightly until the sugar begins to
boil. Keep cooking the sugar until it turns a
deep golden colour, approx. 9-10 minutes.
Prepare a sheet of parchment paper on the
same tray as before, and lightly oil the paper.
Once golden, turn off the heat to the sugar,
and add the peeled nuts, stirring to coat the
nuts in the golden and syrupy sugar. Pour onto
the oiled parchment paper, and leave to cool
and set over several hours, or place into the
fridge to speed up the process to about 10
minutes.
When set, you can break it up into chunks.
To make a praline paste, place into a food
processor. Blitz on low at first to break up the
chunks further and scrape down the sides
if necessary. Then switch to high to form a
powder, a paste will form as the time goes on.
The paste should form after about 2 minutes.
Pour the praline paste into a mason jar, or
similar, or use right away as required. This
praline paste will keep for up to 1 month in
a pantry.
Prep Time: 30 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 40 minutes
Portions: 6
Chestnut Puree or
Purée de marrons
Deliciously creamy chestnut puree is a
firm favourite in France. It features in
lots of desert recipes from rice pudding
to cakes and ice cream and even spread
on toast. And it’s perfect with eclairs
(see page 114). Kit Smyth’s recipe is easy
to make and utterly scrumptious.
INGREDIENTS
455gr/1lb chestnuts, pre-prepared. Or
795g/1.75lbs raw whole chestnuts, and skin
them by your preferred method.
200g/7oz sugar
250ml/1 cup water
5ml/1 tsp vanilla essence
METHOD
Place all the ingredients, except vanilla, into
a medium saucepan, place over mediumhigh
heat, and bring to the boil. Simmer for
25-30 minutes, or until most of the liquid has
evaporated and the chestnuts are tender.
Add the vanilla before straining the nuts from
the liquid, keeping it for later, and allow the
chestnuts to cool a little.
Place the semi-cooled chestnuts into a
food processor, and blend first on low, then
increase to higher speeds, until smooth. Whilst
processing, slowly pour the reserved chestnut
and vanilla liquid into the paste, stopping once
the desired consistency is achieved.
Pour into an airtight container, like a mason
jar, and leave to cool fully before storing in the
fridge. Will keep for up to 10 days in the fridge,
or 6 months in the freezer.
112 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 113

Prep Time: 40 minutes
Cook Time: 40 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour
20minutes
Portions: 12
Festive
Éclairs
Éclairs are one of those wonderful
and iconic French pastries that are
deservedly famous around the world.
Popular with a traditional lusciously
thick and creamy custard filling, they
can also be enjoyed with chocolate or
other delicious flavours.
But these èclairs by Kit Smyth are
something else. Never-fail perfectly
crisp choux pastry, a thick crème
patisserie filling with added sweet
chestnut purèe or hazelnut praline (see
pages 112, 113), and a decorative glacé
icing. They’re just what you want for the
festive season!
INGREDIENTS
Pastry:
200ml/7floz water, room temperature
90g/3oz butter or margarine
90g/3oz plain/all-purpose flour, sifted
3 eggs, large, beaten
Crème Patisserie:
1 large egg, whole
1 large egg, yolk only
60g/2oz white caster sugar
15g/1 tablespoon cornflour
25g/1.5 tablespoons plain/all-purpose flour, sifted
280ml/ ½ pint milk, room temperature
Vanilla essence
Chestnut puree or hazelnut praline – see recipes
Glacé Icing:
450g/1lb icing sugar/powder
Hot water
Essence: Vanilla, or other favourite flavours
Food dye if you prefer different colours.
METHOD
Preheat your oven to 18˚C/350˚F
Choux pastry: Combine the water and butter
in a deep saucepan, bring to the boil. Remove
from the heat and add the flour all at once;
beat until combined and just coming away
from the saucepan walls. Spread out on a
plate to cool.
Once cool, return to the saucepan, and
gradually add in the eggs, beating well
between each addition. The paste should
be free of any lumps, and shiny. It should be
thickish, holding its shape when tested – ‘drop’
a small amount on a plate to check. It will
be difficult to ‘drop’ if too thick and will lose
spread if too runny. If the latter happens, do
not add any more egg. Rather, add a small
amount (1 teaspoon at a time) of plain/AP flour
to thicken.
On a greased and lined baking tray/sheet,
pipe each éclair approximately 7cms or 3
inches, and roughly 1.5cms/ ¾ inch wide;
leaving plenty of space between each baton.
Spritz the sheet with a little water prior to
placing them in the oven. Once on the oven
rack, close the door and increase temperature
to 190˚C/375˚F, and bake for 20-30 minutes,
or until the pastry is golden and crisp.
Crème Patisserie: separate the whole
egg, reserving the white, and mix the yolks
together with the sugar, sift in the flours, and
half the milk.
Warm the rest of the milk until almost boiling,
then add it to the mixture, pouring slowly
and whisking in gently. Transfer the mixture
to a saucepan and heat over a medium heat,
stirring constantly until thickened, remove
from the heat.
Whisk the egg white until stiff and fold into
the custard mixture. Return to the heat and
stir for about 1 minute, then add the vanilla
essence. Remove from the heat, and cover
with a greaseproof paper circle directly onto
the custard and allow to cool.
Once cool, you can divide and use this
mixture as required, adding chestnut puree,
hazelnut praline, or using without further
flavouring. If adding the praline or puree, add
it in tablespoon amounts, until you reach the
flavour level you enjoy best!
Glacé icing: Place the icing/powdered sugar
into a bowl, and carefully add the hot water
whilst stirring constantly. Only add a few drops
of water at a time, as the sugar will dissolve
quickly. Add the vanilla or other essences;
stop adding water when the consistency runs
evenly and coats the back of a spoon.
Assembly: to build your èclairs, you can cut
the choux pastry almost in half lengthways
before piping some crème patisserie into it, or
you can pipe the mix in with a long-nosed flute
pipe – common for filling doughnuts, etc.
Once filled, carefully dip the top of the èclair
into the icing, or spoon the icing over the top
to coat each pastry. Allow the icing to set
before serving – or it gets very messy!
Festive note: You can use different food
dyes or flavourings to enhance your
icings. For example, a ‘red’ Christmas
pudding flavoured icing with traditional
crème patisserie filling, or verdant green
zigzags against plain white icing for a bold
statement with a praline filling.
114 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 115

Mushroom, Spinach,
& Goat Cheese Wreath
INGREDIENTS
1 lb. (500 g) assorted mushrooms
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
7 oz. (200 g) baby spinach, chopped
1 tsp cumin seeds
7 oz. (200 g) fresh goat cheese, crumbled
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons,
preferably organic
Scant 1 cup (4½ oz./125 g) pine nuts
1 small handful dried cranberries (optional)
2 sheets puff pastry, measuring about
8 × 12 in. (20 × 30 cm), preferably all-butter
3½ tbsp (50 ml) whole milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4. Fold the long sides over the filling to
form logs, pressing the pastry edges
together to seal. Close the ends, then
turn the logs over so the seams are
underneath. Very carefully shape the
two logs into a wreath. Relax, the
difficult part is done!
5. Cut out leaves or flowers from the
second pastry sheet. Brush them with a
little water and press them gently onto
the wreath. This also allows you to hide
the joins where the two logs meet.
6. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas
Mark 5). Whisk the milk with 1 tbsp olive
oil and brush all over the wreath. Bake
for 35–40 minutes, until the pastry
is puffed and golden brown. Let the
wreath cool for several minutes on the
baking sheet, then carefully slide it onto
a large serving plate.
Extracted from My Art of Entertaining: Recipes and
Tips from Miss Maggie’s Kitchen by Héloïse Brion
(Flammarion, 2022).
Photography © Christophe Roué 2022.
METHOD
1. Clean and thinly slice the mushrooms.
Heat a little olive oil in a skillet, add the
onion, garlic, and a pinch of salt, and cook
over medium heat until softened. Add the
mushrooms and cook until golden.
Serves 6
ACTIVE TIME: 45 minutes
COOLING TIME:
20-25 minutes
COOKING TIME: 1¼ hours
2. Stir in the spinach and cumin seeds,
followed by the goat cheese, lemon zest,
pine nuts, and dried cranberries, if using.
Season with salt and pepper. Remove from
the heat and let cool for 15–20 minutes.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment
paper. Cut one puff pastry sheet in half
lengthwise. Place the halves side by side on
the baking sheet and cover each one with
half the mushroom mixture, leaving a 1½-in.
(4-cm) border at each end and a 1¼-in.
(3-cm) border along each side.
116 | The Good Life France The Good Life France | 117

Last
Word
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE YOU CAN TRUST
chalet villa château farmhouse apartment vineyard gîte cottage coast country city
If you were to visit my little village on a freezing Winter’s day you might well be
forgiven for thinking it had long ago been abandoned. Sitting in a dip in the middle
of the Seven Valleys of Pas de Calais, northern France, this small hamlet of around
170 people battens down the hatches when the chill weather arrives. Shutters are
closed tight on windows and doors to keep out the icy wind that swooshes down the
hills and rolls around the houses. But if you look just a little closer, you’ll spot puffs of
smoke from wood stoves, hanging in the frozen air above the roof tops.
And if you were to come into my house, you would find a hive of activity. This year
we have a guest. Charlie the house hedgehog. We found him in the chicken pen,
very young and very skinny. He missed his chance to hibernate as he should have
done so now he has a maid with room changes and meals twice a day. Then there
are the cats – Fat Cat, Loulou, Shadow, Tigger-the-cat-who-will-always-be-a-kitten,
Winston and Mimi the Marmalade Moggy, Little Socks and Big Socks, a motley crew
of strays of different temperaments who mainly get along but occasionally fall out
like any family. And finally, we have Ronnie and Reggie the twins. Identical Labrador
puppies who arrived as terrified creatures after being locked in a barn 24/7 – now
boisterous and naughty and much loved.
Often our neighbour Jean-Claude pops in to share the gossip, which though it
may be of no interest whatsoever to the sort of newspaper that likes to publish
sensationalised stories, to an ex-Londoner it is an endless source of fascination.
Recently he arrived, pink faced with excitement to tell me that he had heard a
rumour that a big film producer has decided to make a film about the French royal
family at the height of Versailles’ glory – and that the Seven Valleys will be one of
the main locations. “They’re looking for locals to be in the film” he said. “You could
play a mute peasant, as soon as you talk they’ll know you’re not French! I could most
certainly play the part of the sun king Louis XIV” and he patted his ample stomach
and smoothed a whisp of curly hair that had escaped from under his ever present
cap and turned his head slightly to show his best angle.
“More like Burger King” said his wife Bernadette when I told her of his regal ambitions.
Winters here are about good friends, good food, and sharing the good things that
make you smile, even if the village does appear to be deserted when you first see it!
Janine
Janine Marsh lives in France with her husband and 72 animals. Her latest book,
Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France, is out now on Amazon
and all good book shops.
118 | The Good Life France
EXCLUSIVE
Fairytale Setting
Creuse €318,000
Ref: A06120 - Peaceful 8 bedroom property
comprising 1 house and 2 gîtes.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Country Living
Morbihan €219,350
Ref: A15421 - 3 Bedroom country house
with gardens and room for a granny annexe.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Great Location!
Vienne €149,000
Ref: A14369 - 4 Bedroom property with
garden and barn, in a hamlet near amenities.
9% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Gers €320,000
Ref: A16923 - Lovely 4 bedroom property
set in a pretty village, with over 500m² of land.
6% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Puy-de-Dôme €109,000
Ref: A16485 - 2 Bedroom house with a small
garden, in a quiet hamlet close to amenities.
9% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Dordogne €203,300
Ref: A14688 - 4 Bedroom family house with
gîte, in a dynamic village with amenities.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Income Potential
Haute-Savoie €798,000
Ref: A15172 - 4 Bedroom house with established
cattery business, Thorens-Glières.
Agency fees to be paid by the seller.
EXCLUSIVE
Rare Find!
Lot-et-Garonne €249,000
Ref: A16419 - Exceptional 3 bedroom village
house with garden, in the heart of Gascony.
7% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
EXCLUSIVE
Stunning Views
Orne €194,400
Ref: A16536 - 3 Bedroom stone house with
mature gardens and countryside views.
8% agency fees included paid by the buyer.
Start your property search today!
+33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 leggettfrance.com info@leggett.fr
The Good Life France | 119

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