2022_09_New_Jersey_Monthly
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SHORECAST, THE GIST, and WEEKEND BUZZ.<br />
Get This Week’s<br />
Dining <strong>New</strong>s.<br />
EAT + DRINK<br />
Nogay’s intro to port as an ingredient<br />
arrived in the Chancellor, a classic made<br />
with Scotch, port, dry vermouth and<br />
orange bitters. At work at the Archer,<br />
he might reach for ruby port, the most<br />
extensively produced style, if a cocktail<br />
needs pronounced fruit notes. Oak-aged<br />
tawny ports offer more chocolate, dried<br />
fruit and nutty notes. White ports, made<br />
“ The craft cocktail<br />
movement has<br />
brought port to<br />
the attention of<br />
a younger<br />
demographic.”<br />
entirely from white grapes, feature citrus<br />
floral notes. In recent months, the bar<br />
has featured the Trade Route—a refreshing<br />
mix of aquavit, white port, lemon<br />
and pink-pepper syrup that’s shaken and<br />
served chilled. The Archer generally has<br />
at least one cocktail featuring port on its<br />
rotating menu.<br />
As port expands its identity beyond<br />
after-dinner drinks, some producers are<br />
creating ones specifically for mixing. The<br />
craft-cocktail movement “has brought port<br />
to the attention of a younger demographic<br />
who are less familiar with the traditional<br />
after-dinner moment for a glass of port,”<br />
says Hugh Symington, marketing and communications<br />
manager for Symington Family<br />
Estates, which owns and runs several major<br />
port houses (Graham’s, Cockburn’s, Dow’s<br />
and Warre’s).<br />
Earlier this year, with a younger generation<br />
in mind, Symington launched a<br />
new trio of ports. Under the Cockburn’s<br />
brand, the Tails of the Unexpected bottlings<br />
are “made for mixology,” he says.<br />
Symington, the fifth generation of a<br />
family with deep roots in port, says his<br />
favorite right now is a Port Manhattan,<br />
subbing tawny port for sweet vermouth.<br />
“It’s a fantastic alternative,” he says.<br />
One of my favorites is port and tonic, an<br />
age-old classic in Portugal that’s incredibly<br />
easy to make. Pour 1 ounce of any type<br />
of port (I prefer white here), top with 2<br />
ounces of tonic water, and garnish with a<br />
sprig of mint or rosemary. After a few sips,<br />
it almost feels like I’m back in the historic<br />
Douro Valley where I first encountered<br />
this ancient but ageless spirit.<br />
126 SEPTEMBER <strong>2022</strong> NJMONTHLY.COM