2022_09_New_Jersey_Monthly

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EAT + DRINK
Nogay’s intro to port as an ingredient
arrived in the Chancellor, a classic made
with Scotch, port, dry vermouth and
orange bitters. At work at the Archer,
he might reach for ruby port, the most
extensively produced style, if a cocktail
needs pronounced fruit notes. Oak-aged
tawny ports offer more chocolate, dried
fruit and nutty notes. White ports, made
“ The craft cocktail
movement has
brought port to
the attention of
a younger
demographic.”
entirely from white grapes, feature citrus
floral notes. In recent months, the bar
has featured the Trade Route—a refreshing
mix of aquavit, white port, lemon
and pink-pepper syrup that’s shaken and
served chilled. The Archer generally has
at least one cocktail featuring port on its
rotating menu.
As port expands its identity beyond
after-dinner drinks, some producers are
creating ones specifically for mixing. The
craft-cocktail movement “has brought port
to the attention of a younger demographic
who are less familiar with the traditional
after-dinner moment for a glass of port,”
says Hugh Symington, marketing and communications
manager for Symington Family
Estates, which owns and runs several major
port houses (Graham’s, Cockburn’s, Dow’s
and Warre’s).
Earlier this year, with a younger generation
in mind, Symington launched a
new trio of ports. Under the Cockburn’s
brand, the Tails of the Unexpected bottlings
are “made for mixology,” he says.
Symington, the fifth generation of a
family with deep roots in port, says his
favorite right now is a Port Manhattan,
subbing tawny port for sweet vermouth.
“It’s a fantastic alternative,” he says.
One of my favorites is port and tonic, an
age-old classic in Portugal that’s incredibly
easy to make. Pour 1 ounce of any type
of port (I prefer white here), top with 2
ounces of tonic water, and garnish with a
sprig of mint or rosemary. After a few sips,
it almost feels like I’m back in the historic
Douro Valley where I first encountered
this ancient but ageless spirit.
126 SEPTEMBER 2022 NJMONTHLY.COM