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Issue 19 - Fighters

This issue is a timestamp; a dedication to the children of war. Welcome to our new digital issue: FIGHTERS! In conversation with Varya Lushchyk, Gorsad Kyiv, Aisenberg Denim, Lie Ning, Vitsche, Jean Claracq, and Ana B. 244 pages featuring Iryna Maksymova, The Velvet Creepers, Whole Festival, TTSWTRS, CHERESHNIVSKA, Zhilyova, Ferric Fashion Week, Lina-Luisa Sittig, Guillaume Sudre, Oleksandr Mazur, Lesha Berezovskiy, Ruslan Pukshyn, Julia Sonata, Chris Knickerbocker, Fleur Helluin, Alina Coma, Yaroslav Rashevskyi, Livyj Bereh, Jean Ayala, Dmytro Komissarenko, Tyhran Sohoian, and more.

This issue is a timestamp; a dedication to the children of war. Welcome to our new digital issue: FIGHTERS! In conversation with Varya Lushchyk, Gorsad Kyiv, Aisenberg Denim, Lie Ning, Vitsche, Jean Claracq, and Ana B. 244 pages featuring Iryna Maksymova, The Velvet Creepers, Whole Festival, TTSWTRS, CHERESHNIVSKA, Zhilyova, Ferric Fashion Week, Lina-Luisa Sittig, Guillaume Sudre, Oleksandr Mazur, Lesha Berezovskiy, Ruslan Pukshyn, Julia Sonata, Chris Knickerbocker, Fleur Helluin, Alina Coma, Yaroslav Rashevskyi, Livyj Bereh, Jean Ayala, Dmytro Komissarenko, Tyhran Sohoian, and more.

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<strong>Issue</strong> <strong>19</strong> / 09.2022<br />

FIGHTERS<br />

1


www.sashazayats.com / @sashazayats


4<br />

https://guniaproject.com/


ttps://guniaproject.com/<br />

5


Meet<br />

The Team<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />

Fashion Editor<br />

Art Direction<br />

Marcel Schlutt @marcel_schlutt<br />

mschlutt@kaltblut-magazine.com<br />

Culture Editor<br />

Johanna Urbancik @johannaurbancik<br />

johannaurbancik@kaltblut-magazine.com<br />

Music Editor<br />

Nicola Phillips @nicphilf<br />

nphillips@kaltblut-magazine.com<br />

Fashion Editors<br />

Nico Sutor @nico_sutor_<br />

nsutor@kaltblut-magazine.com<br />

Karl Slater @slaterkarl<br />

kslater@kaltblut-magazine.com<br />

Contributors<br />

Lina-Luisa Sittig<br />

Guillaume Sudre<br />

Oleksandr Mazur<br />

Lesha Berezovskiy<br />

Ruslan Pukshyn<br />

Julia Sonata<br />

Chris Knickerbocker<br />

Fleur Helluin<br />

Alina Coma<br />

Yaroslav Rashevskyi<br />

Livyj Bereh<br />

Jean Ayala<br />

Dmytro Komissarenko<br />

Tyhran Sohoian<br />

This issue is a timestamp; a dedication to the children of war.<br />

It's a dedication to every Ukrainian who has been fighting this<br />

senseless, brutal invasion for the last seven months. It's for every<br />

young person who's called Ukraine their home, but had to leave<br />

everything behind.<br />

It's also a dedication to the LGBTQIA+ community, who fighting<br />

a constant battle for equality. Furthermore, it's for Malte C., who<br />

died because of a hate crime at Münster's CSD.<br />

This issue is also for every Person of Colour, who has to endure<br />

aggressive acts of racism every day and still stands up to fight.<br />

KALTBLUT is dedicating this issue to everyone who fights against<br />

injustice, xenophobia, sexism, antisemitism and hate.<br />

*Johanna Urbancik<br />

Note From the Editors<br />

ON THE COVER<br />

Follow us<br />

www.kaltblut-magazine.com<br />

Instagram @kaltblut_magazine<br />

Twitter @KALTBLUTMAG<br />

Facebook @kaltblut.magazine<br />

Spotify<br />

Youtube<br />

Photography by Oleksandr Mazur<br />

www.alexandrmazur.com<br />

@mazur_sasha<br />

Model is Katrin @hvzhnnomg<br />

@omgmodelmanagement<br />

Make up by Hait Margarita<br />

@haitmargaritamuah<br />

KALTBLUT MAGAZINE is published by Marcel Schlutt and Naikee Simoneau<br />

KALTBLUT MAGAZINE I Anton-Saefkow-Strasse 2 I 10407 Berlin I Germany<br />

All Copyright at KALTBLUT.<br />

All of KALTBLUT´s contributors are responsible and retain the reproduction rights of their own words and images.<br />

Reproductions of any kind are prohibited without the permission of the magazine, editor and each contributor.<br />

6


P. 008 Varya Lushchyk<br />

P. 044 Gorsad Kyiv Interview<br />

P. 054 Iryna Maksymova<br />

P. 079 A Day in Kyiv Reportage<br />

P. 116 On The Ground<br />

P. 122 Lie Ning Interview<br />

P. 140 Vitsche Interview<br />

P. 166 Jean Claracq Interview<br />

P. 184 Ana B. Interview<br />

Interview<br />

Interview<br />

Art Focus<br />

7


VARYA<br />

USHCHYK<br />

interview


Interview by Johanna Urbancik<br />

All photos are provided by<br />

courtesy of Varya Lushchyk<br />

THROUGHOUT THE LAST COUPLE<br />

OF MONTHS, MANY UKRAINIANS<br />

HAVE STEPPED UP TO SUPPORT<br />

THEIR COMMUNITY IN ONE WAY<br />

OR ANOTHER – BE THAT BY<br />

COLLECTING DONATIONS, HELPING<br />

THE ELDERLY, OR REBUILDING<br />

HOUSES.<br />

WE’VE SPOKEN TO VARYA, A<br />

21-YEAR-OLD FROM KYIV. SHE’S<br />

BEEN WORKING AT ONE OF KYIV’S<br />

MOST BELOVED CAFÉS, LYPA,<br />

WHERE SHE ALSO ENDED UP<br />

VOLUNTEERING AT THE BEGINNING<br />

OF THE WAR.<br />

Varya and I caught up on Face-<br />

Time, where she showed me<br />

a beautiful sunset in Kyiv. We<br />

had a long conversation about<br />

the last couple of months, how<br />

she’s stepped up to do so much<br />

at such a young age and the<br />

stories she hears from the<br />

people in liberated villages.


10


How are you?<br />

Varya: Right now, I’m okay. I’m a bit more comfortable<br />

than before because it’s not that scary in Kyiv anymore.<br />

You’re so young! You’re getting your youth stolen by the<br />

pandemic and the war.<br />

Varya: That’s actually a joke of mine. I should be<br />

studying at university right now, but first, there was a<br />

pandemic and now a war.<br />

That’s right, you must’ve just turned 18 when the<br />

pandemic started.<br />

Varya: Yeah, and it was my second year at university.<br />

So, you’re still studying at university now?<br />

Varya: No, I dropped out of university because of<br />

COVID-<strong>19</strong>. I didn’t like studying online, it’s not the<br />

right thing for me. Before the war, I was working as an<br />

actress and a waitress in a café. I’m also a tattoo artist.<br />

I have many jobs. I’m slowly starting to get back into it<br />

because when the war started, I was volunteering a lot<br />

at the café where I was working.<br />

The café is called Lypa. We turned it into a shelter for<br />

people who needed it. The café is in a basement, so<br />

it was safer. Some people ended up living there. We<br />

were looking after them and also started cooking for<br />

the hospitals, old people and our military – basically for<br />

everyone who was in need. It was strange living at my<br />

place of work for three months.<br />

Wow, that’s incredible.<br />

But you know, when you’re here, you keep thinking<br />

whatever you do isn’t enough. I’m not in the military,<br />

I can’t make this city safe. I’m always thinking I’m not<br />

doing enough.<br />

I understand that. I think to a certain extent, everyone<br />

has that feeling of not doing enough. How are you<br />

dealing with the mental impact of what you’ve<br />

experienced and what your country is experiencing? Are<br />

you already starting to process it?<br />

Varya: There was a moment when I was thinking:<br />

enough! I broke my toe and could only walk with<br />

crutches. I was lying in my bed and I heard explosions<br />

and the air raid sirens. I couldn’t go to the shelter fast<br />

enough because of that broken toe and the crutches. So,<br />

I was just lying there, accepting whatever would happen.<br />

But, it’s slowly getting better.<br />

It’s summer now, the weather is still good, and we have<br />

beautiful sunsets. That’s kind of putting me in a good<br />

mood at the moment.<br />

What are the winters like in Kyiv?<br />

Varya: Winter in Kyiv is depressing. The days are really<br />

short, only six hours or so, there’s a lot of snow, and it’s<br />

freezing cold. I don’t like winter. I just really hope we<br />

will be able to heat our homes in the winter and the gas<br />

won’t be too expensive.<br />

I’m only starting to slowly make money again, and I<br />

can’t save anything because everything is so expensive.<br />

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I completely understand you. I feel especially young<br />

people are the ones who are affected the most. So<br />

besides working, you’re also volunteering. What are the<br />

kind of things you're seeing or hearing when you speak<br />

to the people you help?<br />

Varya: At the beginning of the war, it wasn’t as scary<br />

as it is now. We were volunteering in villages in the<br />

Chernihiv Region. Those villages were all under Russian<br />

occupation. We rebuild houses that were destroyed<br />

and burned out and the people in those villages tell<br />

us horrible, scary stories. Many of those stories are of<br />

Russian soldiers living in their houses, threatening them<br />

with their guns and demanding them to cook for them.<br />

Other stories of Russian soldiers eating the dogs of old<br />

grandpas and grandmas. The stories range from killing<br />

to torture and animal abuse.<br />

That sounds absolutely barbaric. Would you say that the<br />

volunteers are mainly young people?<br />

Varya: In my group, we’re a group of friends. They’re<br />

all older than me, between 25 and 30. It’s mainly men,<br />

too. We became friends when we were living at the Lypa<br />

café. They’re like friends from a previous life. We formed<br />

this group and started by sending out humanitarian<br />

aid. Then we saw all the broken windows and decided<br />

to cover them with cling film. It was only the beginning<br />

of spring, which meant it was still cold. That’s when we<br />

decided we needed to do more.<br />

13


"THE OLD PEOPLE<br />

REALLY NEED HELP<br />

WITH THEIR HOUSES,<br />

BECAUSE WINTER<br />

IS COMING.<br />

RIGHT NOW,<br />

MANY OF THEM<br />

ARE LIVING<br />

IN THEIR<br />

CHICKEN COOPS<br />

OR BARNS."<br />

14


15


16


Varya: The people in most villages don’t need that much<br />

food, as they’re growing a lot of it by themselves. But<br />

they really need help with their houses, because winter<br />

is coming. Right now, many of them are living in their<br />

chicken coops or barns.<br />

It’s incredible what you and your friends are doing. Can<br />

you walk me through the process of what you’re doing<br />

with the donations you’re receiving and how you’re<br />

distributing the humanitarian aid?<br />

Varya: The money I receive comes from mainly<br />

Ukrainian people. In the beginning, we asked people<br />

from abroad to send food, and when the supermarkets<br />

reopened, we were buying most of the things there.<br />

Stuff for rebuilding the houses we buy from builders.<br />

It sounds like a real sense of community, like everyone’s<br />

working together.<br />

Varya: Yes! But you know, every time we go shopping,<br />

it’s getting harder. Everything’s getting more and more<br />

expensive, and we don’t know how to afford everything.<br />

Are you getting any support or assistance from the<br />

government?<br />

Varya: No. But, some people from the government come<br />

to take notes and inspect the damages in these villages.<br />

Right now, the government can’t send money. They have<br />

so much other stuff to do. And I do understand it, and<br />

I'm not mad at anyone in our government.<br />

And is that a common feeling among Ukrainians?<br />

Varya: Younger people are supporting the government,<br />

and they understand what’s going on. The young people<br />

here are thankful for being alive, the government and<br />

the army. However, some old people in the villages<br />

don’t understand why the government isn’t helping them<br />

more. Sometimes they are waiting for someone from the<br />

top to visit them, or rather that Zelenskyy himself would<br />

end up helping them to rebuild their houses.<br />

But, again, whenever we have conversations with older<br />

people and explain, that this isn’t possible because<br />

too much is going on – they understand. Everyone, in<br />

general, seems to be kind and supportive at the moment.<br />

Yes, I think that sense of support and sticking together is<br />

something we’ve all seen and admired from Ukrainians<br />

over the last couple of months. Are you from Kyiv?<br />

Varya: Yes.<br />

So, you grew up speaking Ukrainian?<br />

Varya: Yes, and no. I was speaking Russian with my<br />

family, and Ukrainian at school. For a long time, I could<br />

write only in Ukrainian and made loads of mistakes in<br />

Russian. But then I grew up and started reading Russian<br />

literature, and now I can speak both languages fluently.<br />

You know, these are really two different languages.<br />

Ukrainians can understand Russian, but Russians do<br />

not understand Ukrainian at all. Myself, I don’t want to<br />

speak Russian anymore, except with my grandma. She<br />

isn't Ukrainian, so she doesn’t speak the language – but<br />

she's trying!<br />

What does your life look like right now? You’ve<br />

mentioned earlier that everything is feeling a bit more<br />

normal, and you’re starting to go back to work.<br />

Varya: Life in Kyiv feels like it’s back to normal –<br />

Summer here is really cool and there are even some<br />

parties and events. On the other hand, you still have<br />

people collecting money for the army -- the war is<br />

always present. Sometimes, it’s the air raid sirens, and<br />

sometimes, when I come back home in the morning, I<br />

ask myself what the fuck I’m doing; this isn’t the time for<br />

partying.<br />

It always comes back to what we were talking about<br />

in the beginning, whatever you do, it’s not enough.<br />

You keep on moving, buying more stuff, volunteering<br />

whenever you can. I also have a lot of responsibility,<br />

because I’m receiving the money for the donations on<br />

my bank account.<br />

So, I need to constantly check everything. Generally, a<br />

lot of the organization is on me.<br />

None of those things are as scary as checking the news,<br />

though.<br />

Do you still check the news a lot?<br />

Varya: Of course, of course. I am subscribed to more<br />

than ten news organizations on Telegram. I’m always<br />

checking what’s going on. Because, even if it’s quiet in<br />

Kyiv, there are explosions and attacks in other cities that<br />

we need to know about.<br />

How are you dealing with your mental health?<br />

Varya: As for me, I feel that, right now, I need help. But<br />

I'm putting this in the back of my head, because I have<br />

to stay focused right now. It’s raining a lot in Kyiv right<br />

now, and sometimes there are thunderstorms. You see a<br />

lot of people looking for shelter when they hear thunder,<br />

because they think they’re being shelled again. You<br />

notice how similar thunder sounds to explosions.<br />

The people that stayed in Ukraine, they will have this<br />

problem for a long time. And the people abroad will<br />

have this feeling of not doing enough, and not having a<br />

home anymore..<br />

If there’s one thing you could tell the people around the<br />

world, what would it be?<br />

Varya: Sometimes when I look at the stories people post<br />

from abroad, I get a little jealous, because I can’t enjoy<br />

my life like that, I can’t party. I would ask the world<br />

please not to forget that we have a war here. I can sit<br />

outside now only because of the Ukrainian army.<br />

I remember the day when in there were a lot of protests<br />

in Europe in support of Ukraine. I was looking through<br />

my Instagram and saw all the posts, and it was so<br />

comforting to see that a lot of people are still thinking<br />

about us. We are not lost.<br />

People haven’t forgotten about us,<br />

and they care! I think my main message<br />

would be to please not forget about us.<br />

17


18


<strong>19</strong>


If you want to donate to Varya and<br />

her friends, you can do so via the<br />

following links.<br />

Ukrainians can donate via Varya’s<br />

Monobank link here, and internationals<br />

can donate to this PayPal account:<br />

zamai_georgia@protonmail.com<br />

You can also follow her on Instagram<br />

@varyalushchyk, where she posts<br />

regular updates.<br />

20


21


22<br />

Sustainable CBD brand from Berlin


wwwsophiensaele.com<br />

23


FRACTALE<br />

A new TTSWTRS<br />

collection inspired<br />

by the fractal<br />

process in nature<br />

Ukrainian brand TTSWTRS has released their first collection since<br />

Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine. The collection took longer to<br />

launch because of the war but the brand carries on exploring the planet<br />

and nature. Presenting FRACTALE — a collection focused on the<br />

phenomenon of similarity and duplication, a process that symbolizes<br />

the continuation of life.<br />

24


25


TTSWTRS considers the theory and<br />

properties of self-similar structures that<br />

form a fractal — a set consisting of similar<br />

parts. For the team, a fractal is a symbol<br />

of life, renewal, regeneration, and new<br />

beginnings. Anna Osmekhina, Svitlana Snizhko,<br />

and Nina Korobeynikova collaborated on this<br />

collection.<br />

For the color palette of the FRACTALE collection,<br />

Anna Osmekhina — the founder of TTSWTRS<br />

— drew inspiration from the icy shades of gray,<br />

graphite, and white characteristically found on<br />

strict Icelandic landscapes.<br />

"Iceland, this incredible country, has become<br />

my inspiration — as the mirror of nature and its<br />

genius, with its perfect combination of colors<br />

and the beauty of fractality in every detail”<br />

says Anna Osmekhina.<br />

In addition to grayscale colors, the items of the<br />

collection feature a unique design of various<br />

textures that represents the abundance of surfaces<br />

in nature. The<br />

collection is created with eco-friendly<br />

materials, and includes a hoodie with slits, mesh<br />

dress, knitted tops and bodysuits, bicycle shorts<br />

and bodysuits with layers.<br />

The whole collection is a large-scale<br />

fractal which, like a puzzle, consists of units. With<br />

the FRACTALE collection, TTSWTRS shows that<br />

all things on Earth are similar to each other, and<br />

intertwine as parts of one organism. This brings<br />

an understanding: life on the planet can be maintained,<br />

cherished and restored, and on the other<br />

hand — can be subject to self-destruction.<br />

The collection serves as a reminder to dedicate<br />

ourselves and all our actions to life and recovery,<br />

instead of destruction.<br />

Everything is fractals.<br />

You can get acquainted with FRACTALE online,<br />

as well as in TTSWTRS offline stores in Kyiv and<br />

Odessa.<br />

Follow @ttswtrs<br />

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Pants: NYCTO<br />

Top: custom vintage<br />

Photography by Guillaume Sudre / @guillaume_sdr<br />

Model is Andréa B signed at Mademoiselle Agency / @andybyfive<br />

Stylist is Camille Loizillon / www.camilleloizillon.net / @camilo_izi<br />

Make up by Maude Gobet / @modimagine<br />

37


38<br />

left<br />

Earrings and Bag: r.l.ehouse<br />

Dress: vintage<br />

right<br />

Dress: vintage


39


40


Top: vintage<br />

Earrings and Bag: r.l.ehouse<br />

Panty: H&M<br />

41


42


left<br />

Earrings and Bag: r.l.ehouse<br />

Bra: vintage<br />

Skirt: Céline Shen<br />

right<br />

Top: Marianna Ladreyt<br />

43


44<br />

Interview by Lina-Luisa Sittig<br />

In conversation with<br />

Gorsad Kyiv: Maria,<br />

Victor and Julian!


Gorsad Kyiv<br />

45


Young, unfiltered and in a moment of authentic<br />

aloofness—with this strong visual language, the<br />

artist collective Gorsad Kyiv gives Kyiv's youth<br />

culture a platform. Maria, Victor and Julian, who<br />

Materialistic<br />

have known each other for over ten years, capture<br />

moments through their photographs that stand for<br />

the intrepidity of youth.<br />

In a conversation with KALTBLUT, the artists<br />

describe how the war affects their work and how<br />

they are able to continue their work fruitfully<br />

despite the extremely difficult conditions.


47


Is it possible for you to work and<br />

push your projects forward in<br />

the current situation? If so, what<br />

restrictions do you face in your<br />

artwork due to the war?<br />

Gorsad: Of course, we face many<br />

organizational problems and not<br />

only, but we try not to pay attention<br />

to it. Now in Ukraine we do not<br />

have commercial orders, as before<br />

the war. There is the possibility<br />

to engage solely in creative<br />

photography and to take part in<br />

exhibitions in other countries to<br />

support Ukraine.<br />

You work mainly with very young<br />

people. The other aspect of your<br />

art is to capture their moods in a<br />

very unfiltered and authentic way.<br />

How challenging is it these days to<br />

maintain this focus in your visual<br />

language?<br />

Gorsad: Everything's turned upside<br />

down now. But at the same time,<br />

people have become very open and<br />

willing to cooperate, which gives<br />

the opportunity and the strength to<br />

keep experimenting in their work.<br />

How exactly does a Gorsad<br />

photoshoot work? Who takes on<br />

which role throughout the creative<br />

process?<br />

Gorsad: Everyone contributes<br />

roughly equally, over the long<br />

time we've been working together,<br />

we've been constantly changing our<br />

creative roles.<br />

49


50


Your works include minors posing<br />

with (fake) weapons and these<br />

photos are posted next to images<br />

that can be associated with a sexual<br />

context.<br />

What is the motive behind this, and<br />

can you relate to the fact that it can<br />

be seen critically?<br />

Gorsad: These photos come from<br />

different series and have a totally<br />

different semantics content.<br />

Sure, if these photos are combined,<br />

for instance, on Instagram, then the<br />

viewer can think of anything…<br />

What is the most remarkable aspect<br />

of working with very young people?<br />

Gorsad: They are sincere and very<br />

open, it is more interesting to work<br />

with them than with professional<br />

models.<br />

With age, many people lose their<br />

authenticity, and this is very felt when<br />

working with them. Of course, that<br />

doesn't apply to everybody, but in a<br />

lot of cases it's felt.<br />

Lately, you cooperated with Werush<br />

Skateboards. Are there any further<br />

projects planned which bring together<br />

urban youth culture and your art?<br />

Gorsad: Yes, it is always interesting to<br />

do such projects. We planned to do a<br />

similar collaboration with another US<br />

skateboarding brand, but since the<br />

start of the war in Ukraine, everything<br />

had to be postponed for a while.<br />

52


Follow Gorsad Kyiv on Instagram @grsdkyiv to keep up with their latest artworks.<br />

All photos are provided by courtesy of Gorsad Kyiv.


54


ART<br />

SHE WILL WIN<br />

Art is supposed to be personal – to the viewer and the artist. Iryna Maksymova's<br />

work accomplishes that in a beautiful way. The Ukrainian artist's story line, the<br />

colours and characters seem simple, but reflext the deepest parts of her inner<br />

feelings. Every piece is a voice, a manifesto and a call to action.<br />

The female silhouettes, which present in many of her artworks, are a powerful<br />

symbol with their male and feminine characteristis. The animals she paints are<br />

given a voice they don't usually have. Her work is a statement for Feminism and<br />

ecology and against sexism and any cruelty towards humans or animals. Some<br />

might say that these themes have always been on everyone’s lips, but why<br />

should you stay silent?<br />

Maksymova's practice has power to influence people and to make them reflect<br />

not only on the visual part, but also on the idea and concept that might motivate<br />

to change and be changed.<br />

Unline many other artists, she doesnt believe in creative process or motivation.<br />

She believes in hard work and not waiting for things to fall into your lap. "Hard<br />

and continuous work will bring experience, confidence, opportunities, more ideas<br />

and even more work," she says.<br />

Do not miss Iryna's solow show "she will win" at Circle Culture Gallery Berlin<br />

Gipsstraße 11, 101<strong>19</strong> Berlin, Germany. Till November 4th 2022<br />

@circleculture.galleries // www.circleculture-gallery.com<br />

Follow Iryna @maksymova.art // www.maksymova.art<br />

IRYNA<br />

MAKSYMOVA<br />

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T<br />

IRYNA<br />

MAKSYMOVA<br />

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"Hello. My name is Alexander Mazur.<br />

I am a fashion photographer,<br />

originally from Ukraine.<br />

I used to live in Kyiv, but as a result of<br />

the war, I was forced to return to my<br />

small town of Kamenskoye, where I<br />

was born and grew up until I was 20<br />

years old. I walked a lot around my<br />

native city, visited places that<br />

reminded me of my childhood.<br />

I passed by the pool, where I swam<br />

during my time at school. I wanted<br />

to go inside. There was a sign on<br />

the door stating that it is temporarily<br />

closed and it is not clear when it will<br />

reopen. My curiosity to know how<br />

much had changed led me to knock<br />

on the door and try to get in. To my<br />

delight, the guard opened the door.<br />

I told him that I swam in this pool<br />

when I was little, and that I would<br />

very much like to see how much it had<br />

changed. I managed to negotiate and<br />

they let me inside. When I got inside,<br />

I saw that it was empty and shabby. It<br />

upset me a little, but inspired me a lot.<br />

At this moment, I realized that I wanted<br />

to shoot in it. The image that came<br />

to my mind was in the likeness of<br />

"amphibian human" – but more<br />

understandable to the viewer.<br />

I wanted to do something unusual, to<br />

convey the form, geometry,<br />

atmosphere and dramaturgy that was<br />

in my soul.<br />

SWIMMING<br />

Photography by Oleksandr Mazur<br />

www.alexandrmazur.com<br />

@mazur_sasha<br />

Model is Katrin @hvzhnnomg<br />

@omgmodelmanagement<br />

Make up by Hait Margarita<br />

@haitmargaritamuah<br />

Stylist - Olga Chernyshova<br />

@oneblueberrynight<br />

turtleneck - Mango<br />

gloves - Accessories<br />

jumpsuit - Reserved<br />

swimsuit - Esmara<br />

cap - b_mod_<br />

63


64


65


66


67


68


69


70


71


72


73


THE VELVET<br />

CREEPERS<br />

LIKE WEIMAR CABARET ON ACID<br />

SENSUAL - SEDUCTIVE - SURREAL<br />

WHEN: 4. + 5. 11.22<br />

DOORS: 7 PM / SHOW 8 PM<br />

Photo by @andreykezzyn<br />

74


Join THE VELVET CREEPERS for their Cabaret of<br />

the 2020s and enjoy grandiose entertainment with<br />

a queer twist. An explosive mix of Kabarett of the<br />

<strong>19</strong>20s and Berlin Club Culture of the 2020s.<br />

TICKETS HERE<br />

Invoke the spirit of your darkest and most thrilling<br />

dreams. A dash of glitter, the smell of perfume and<br />

tobacco, bodies dripping latex and a gender bending<br />

reveal.<br />

Imagine stumbling into a <strong>19</strong>20s Berlin salon and getting<br />

catapulted into a 2020s nightclub with a BANG.<br />

The Queens of Dark Cabaret LILLY MORTIS, FIFI<br />

FANTÔME, and DUNJA von K are back with special<br />

guests.<br />

Burlesque - Acrobatics - Cabaret - Performance Art -<br />

Queerlesque<br />

BERLIN'S LEGENDARY<br />

BURLESQUE AND CIRCUS TRIO<br />

The Berlin-based Performance Trio brings together<br />

the very best of Circus, Cabaret, and Burlesque with<br />

Glamour and Female Empowerment.<br />

​<br />

With their unique dark aesthetic they stand for<br />

grandiose entertainment.<br />

​The contemporary circus and cabaret trio<br />

combine vintage glamour and female* power and<br />

are bringing back the Weimar Varieté with a modern<br />

twist. They are most famous for their surreal<br />

aesthetic and queer topics. They are at home on<br />

theatre stages as well as immersive dinner show. The<br />

trio was founded in 2018 by Fifi Fantôme (aerial artist<br />

and contemporary dancer), Dunja von K (hula hoop<br />

artist and cabaret performer) and Lilly Mortis (Singer<br />

and Burlesque Artist).<br />

The Velvet Creepers have been producing their regular<br />

queer-feminist Varieté Show in Berlin and have<br />

graced many stages at theatres and performance<br />

festivals across Germany. Further productions were<br />

realized in collaboration with Cabaret Bizarre, House<br />

of Lunacy, Weisse Maus, Bad Bruises, ...<br />

Their performances for corporate events include<br />

Amazon, Adjust, Zalando, Flight Center, FunFairFilms.<br />

Follow via @thevelvetcreepers<br />

www.thevelvetcreepers.com<br />

Photo by @paikov<br />

75


Photo by @andreykezzyn<br />

76<br />

FIFI FANTÔME<br />

Canada's Queen of Dark Burlesque<br />

She is flamboyant and hilarious, eccentric and mysterious. With her larger<br />

than life dance moves, famed story lines and strange imagination The<br />

Canadian Queen of Dark Cabaret brings you into her world. She is an<br />

international multi-skilled Circus, Theater and Burlesque Performer.<br />

Her specialties include Aerial Hoop, Contemporary Dance, Hat Juggling,<br />

Clowning and Burlesque.<br />

She truly captivates the audience with her passionate moves and highly<br />

emotional performance as well as her breath-taking acrobatics. Fifi is a<br />

Shapeshifter, a sensual dark glamazon, who may surprise you as gender<br />

bending Clown. Expect the unexpected, when entering the world of Fifi<br />

Fantôme; it’s like letting your dreams seep into reality<br />

@fififantome


DUNJA VON K<br />

Queen of Hula Hoops Dark,<br />

captivating, engaging, surreal and sexy<br />

are the best words to describe Dunja<br />

von K. She holds two Guinness World<br />

Records and is without a doubt Berlin's<br />

Queen of Hula Hoop.<br />

The internationally acclaimed Hoop<br />

Artist and Cabaret Performer will leave<br />

you speechless with her breath taking<br />

skill set and extraordinary storytelling.<br />

Her work incorporates a multiplicity of<br />

genres and has been described as<br />

surreal, alternative, and avant-garde.<br />

Her shows are bursting with energy and<br />

will leave you gasping for more. Each<br />

and every performance however has<br />

multiple facets and takes the audience<br />

on a journey into their own minds<br />

@dunjavonk<br />

Surreal Sinsation, Burlesque Singer!<br />

Singing Sin-sation, Surreal Enchantress, Dark Cabaret Diva.<br />

With her silky voice and dark humour, the Queen of Cabaret<br />

Noir lures you into her sublime fantasy. Lilly Mortis is a burlesque<br />

artist, compère, and jazz singer, who combines the<br />

glamour of Weimar Berlin with twisted expressionist aesthetics<br />

in lavish costumes and avant-garde narratives.<br />

With charm and ease she incorporates modern feminist topics<br />

into her fabulousshows. Her shows are a play of light and<br />

shadow, enchanting and disturbing.<br />

@lilly_mortis<br />

LILLY MORTIS<br />

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LESHA BEREZOVSKIY<br />

A<br />

DAY<br />

IN<br />

KYIV<br />

For many of us, life in a war zone is unimaginable.<br />

That’s why we asked Kyiv-based photographer<br />

Lesha Berezovskiy to show us, what a new-normal<br />

day in the Ukrainian capital looks like.<br />

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Vova<br />

@vova.rancher<br />

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Lesha sent us loads of stunning photos of his friends and wife, Agata, whose<br />

story you can listen back to on Spotify. He also sent us photos from the<br />

destroyed Russian tanks that were put on display in the centre of Kyiv ahead of<br />

the country’s Independence Day on 24th of August.<br />

Lesha has documented his experiences from the beginning of the invasion via<br />

several mediums, such as his column at Switzerland’s Republik Magazin.<br />

Follow Lesha on Instagram via @lewa_kartowa to keep up with his work.<br />

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left: Agata<br />

@agafya38_<br />

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82<br />

Dima and Marisha<br />

with their dog Semen<br />

@d.tsey<br />

@kraciviti


83


84


Zhenya Trifonova @firmkick<br />

She also doing a nice hand sculpted jewelry<br />

@decline.th<br />

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Sevilya<br />

@sevilianarimanqizi<br />

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87


88


Kira<br />

@kira_protsenko<br />

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90<br />

Agata @agafya38_<br />

wearing @uuavelosport t-shirt.<br />

"A small label I'm doing with my friends. From these<br />

t-shirts we donate 50% profits to our volunteer friends."


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Sweet<br />

dreams<br />

mad<br />

world<br />

Photographer: Ruslan Pukshyn @ruslanpukshyn<br />

Model & styling: Yasha Zhylin @yasha.zhylin<br />

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left: underwear - H&M<br />

belts - Elena Burenina<br />

cuff - Alan Crocetti<br />

ring - It's Clay<br />

right: jaket - vintage, stylist property<br />

scarf - Elena Burenina<br />

shoes - Zara<br />

pendant - Sasha Gorbachenko<br />

95


left: bodysuit - Elena Burenina<br />

shorts - Vozianov<br />

right: cuff & chain - Zhylin<br />

pendant - Sasha Gorbachenko<br />

96


left: scarf, bag & bracelet - Elena Burenina<br />

pendant - Sasha Gorbachenko<br />

right: underwear - Puma<br />

cuff, bracelet - Zhylin<br />

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jaket - vintage, stylist property<br />

pants - Elena Burenina<br />

underwear - Karl Lagerfeld<br />

cuff - Alan Crocetti<br />

shoes - Zara<br />

belt - vintage, stylist property<br />

101


left: underwear - H&M<br />

belts - Elena Burenina<br />

cuff - Alan Crocetti<br />

ring - It's Clay<br />

right: jeans - Cheap Monday<br />

cuff & chain - Zhylin<br />

pendant - Sasha Gorbachenko<br />

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103


WHOLE<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

2022<br />

104<br />

A PHOTO REVIEW


RECLAIMING<br />

After three years of waiting,<br />

WHOLE - United Queer<br />

Festival has finally returned to<br />

Ferropolis, a rusting city of iron<br />

located on a peninsula<br />

1 hour and a half drive outside<br />

of Berlin in Germany. After the<br />

2020 edition was cancelled<br />

due to COVID, it was unsure<br />

whether WHOLE was able to<br />

continue for another edition.<br />

Through crowdfunding and<br />

donations, their community<br />

exceeded the target amount<br />

needed to cover financial<br />

losses and ensured its fourth<br />

edition, took place from<br />

August 26 to August 28 this<br />

year. 4999 visitors came to<br />

WHOLE this year, keeping the<br />

festival’s intimate vibe.<br />

QUEER<br />

Follow @whole.festival<br />

Photography by<br />

@don.victor.luque<br />

@herr_phillips<br />

@bigbusinessmonkey<br />

@spyrosrent<br />

SPACE<br />

105


For its musical program, WHOLE invited over<br />

30 crews, with 102 artists scattered over a<br />

dystopian cyberpunk influenced Crane Stage,<br />

their signature floating-in-the-water - Beach<br />

Stage, a 24-hour Forest Floor, a pillowparadise<br />

Ambient Stage and a Performance<br />

Stage in the forest. This year WHOLE united<br />

Berlin’s queer electronic music scene with<br />

15 international collectives and celebrated<br />

them in their use of dance as a tool for<br />

socio-political movement, each in various ways<br />

in their own countries.<br />

Amongst the international collectives were<br />

those from the UK, Uganda, Colombia,<br />

Brazil, Portugal, United States, Hungary, Poland,<br />

Greece, Taiwan, Ukraine and Kazakhstan.<br />

New on this year’s line-up were ‘T4T luv NRG’,<br />

the US-based label run by Octo Octa and Eris<br />

Drew, London’s ‘Adonis’, Bogota’s ‘Bulto’,<br />

Kampala’s ‘ANTI-MASS’ and Berlin’s ‘Bring down<br />

the Walls’, ‘Floorgasm’, ‘Mala Junta’ and ‘Radiant<br />

Love’.<br />

QUEER ELECTRONIC MUSIC SCENE<br />

106


For this year’s cultural<br />

program, WHOLE hosted<br />

4 talks, 13 performances, 2<br />

film festivals, 1 hybrid<br />

expanded cinema program,<br />

5 art installations and 34<br />

workshops, with an<br />

extensive awareness team,<br />

creating a space where play,<br />

freedom, harm<br />

reduction, politics and<br />

education blend together.<br />

The extensive program<br />

could be found in this<br />

year’s new ‘WHOLE’ app,<br />

which featured a map of<br />

the festival, a timetable, a<br />

list of artists, crews<br />

and their background<br />

information as well as<br />

performances, talks,<br />

workshops and activities.<br />

The app also included a page with<br />

live updates, FAQ, information about<br />

health & safety, a forum allowing<br />

visitors to ask any questions to the<br />

team and towards each other, as<br />

well as an SOS-button that visitors<br />

could use to call the aid tent in case<br />

of emergency.<br />

Uniting the global queer electronic<br />

music scene offers opportunity<br />

to exchange and to learn from<br />

each other, but also to reflect on<br />

socio-political topics within the<br />

community. To facilitate these discussions,<br />

WHOLE hosted talks about<br />

topics such as ‘Climate Change and<br />

Post-Growth Raving’, and organized<br />

a community discussion and Q&A<br />

called ‘Let’s Talk About Sex & Drugs’.<br />

The special workshop tent that<br />

was added to the festival this year<br />

focused on radical presence and<br />

grounding. Many of the workshops<br />

were hosted by Pfaueninsel, a group<br />

of 10 queer bodyworkers, massage<br />

therapists, performing artists &<br />

community facilitators.<br />

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108


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‘The workshops offer space &<br />

affirming opportunities for folks who are<br />

most marginalized. They invite guests to<br />

build community, rest, learn, connect,<br />

support each other, play and get high on<br />

oxytocin.’ the founders of WHOLE say.<br />

Some of the workshops included: Queer<br />

Men* of color, Radical Healing, Gay Ass<br />

Yoga, Genital Renaming, Touching<br />

Tenderness and QBIPOC journaling.<br />

New at WHOLE this year was the FLINTA<br />

Play Space. An intentional play space for<br />

female identifying, lesbian, inter, non-binary,<br />

trans and agender people. Berlin-based<br />

‘Les Sans-Culottes’ was<br />

behind the organization of the play<br />

space. Amongst the collective are artists,<br />

performers, sex educators, a doctor, a DJ<br />

and a writer.<br />

Some of the noteworthy performances at<br />

the performance stage this year included<br />

Berlin Strippers Collective, which aim is<br />

to destigmatize and educate on stripping<br />

and sex work as well as Drag Syndrome,<br />

the world’s first professional drag company<br />

for queens and kings with Down’s<br />

Syndrome. Planningtorock also enchanted<br />

the audience with an otherworldly live<br />

performance.<br />

APPY<br />

110


Pop icons of queers were celebrated with<br />

Projekt Gestalten b2b Deepneue closing off their<br />

set, dancing in crown and dress at the Crane<br />

Stage on Saturday evening with Beyoncé’s ‘<br />

Flawless’. Some of the more eclectic and<br />

noteworthy gigs were those of Darlkom, Nsasi and<br />

Authentically Plastic, from Kampala, Uganda’s<br />

‘ANTI-MASS’. Through sound the collective aims<br />

to reclaim space for minorities in an increasingly<br />

regressive social climate.<br />

Boris, who was attending as guest, filled in last<br />

minute for D.Tiffany - who unfortunately had to<br />

cancel being sick - at the Crane Stage with his<br />

signature sound. BASHKKA closed the beach<br />

stage with an energetic set on Saturday night<br />

where earlier, Kiddy Smile had everyone rolling on<br />

sensuous basslines despite the brief but intense<br />

rainstorm. Another unique set was delivered by<br />

Cocktail d’Amore related new comer Carly Zeng<br />

who ended her set with a slow-paced<br />

Happy Hardcore track. The Chicago based ‘Rumors’<br />

closed the Forest Stage ending with a couple<br />

of Punta songs, a traditional Afro-indigenous<br />

genre originated by the Garifuna people on the<br />

Caribbean island of Saint Vincent.<br />

WHOLE<br />

111


112


113


INTIMATE<br />

114<br />

VIBE


Design: @cozcon<br />

Empowerment Festival für<br />

Trans* Jugend (13-18 Jahre)<br />

28–30 Oktober 2022<br />

115


ON THE<br />

GROUND<br />

WITH JANA + SARAH<br />

ASHTON-CIRILLO<br />

I had a long conversation with Jana, who I came across on Twitter a couple of weeks after the invasion started. Jana had been interviewed by someone<br />

where she talked about having to flee the Russian Army for a second time now. Jana is from Syria. She moved to Ukraine to study medicine with the desire<br />

to live life like any other young person, away from war. Now, Jana is in Germany, which is the third country she’s lived in since she left Syria. Though<br />

happy she escaped missiles and rockets yet again, she’s living in uncertainty. Her biggest dream is to become a doctor, however, the German education<br />

system is incredibly strict and the only option for her would be to start from scratch again. Read my interview with Jana, or scan the QR code to listen to<br />

the audio interview.<br />

Interview by Johanna Urbancik<br />

“Some<br />

international<br />

students went<br />

back to continue<br />

their studies<br />

in their home<br />

countries. But<br />

what about me,<br />

where will<br />

I go back to?”<br />

116


Can you tell me a little bit about your<br />

journey?<br />

Jana: I'm originally from Syria. So, I<br />

lived and studied in Syria when the war<br />

started. Soon after, I decided to leave and<br />

continue my studies somewhere else. First,<br />

I went to Lebanon because you can just go<br />

there as a Syrian national. I continued my<br />

studies there for a while, and then applied<br />

to a university in Ukraine. They accepted<br />

me, so I got a student visa and moved<br />

there.<br />

How long were you in Ukraine before you<br />

had to flee?<br />

Jana: I have been staying in Ukraine for<br />

four years. Everything was fine there until<br />

this war started.<br />

When did you decide to leave Ukraine?<br />

Jana: I left Ukraine on my own when I<br />

realised that no one was coming to rescue<br />

us.<br />

I lived in Sumy, right by the Russian<br />

border. When the invasion began, we<br />

heard rumours that the Red Cross would<br />

send busses to evacuate us, so we packed<br />

everything – but no one ever came. Many<br />

of my friends and people I knew started<br />

to leave by themselves by sharing a taxi.<br />

That’s what I then decided to do, too.<br />

How long was your journey?<br />

Jana: I spent two or three days on the<br />

road until I got to the Polish border. I<br />

stayed in Poland for a night and then took<br />

a train to Berlin.<br />

How's everything going now? Are you<br />

studying at university again?<br />

Jana: My life is not easy at all at this<br />

moment. I'm still at my university, I didn't<br />

drop out. And that’s mainly because it<br />

isn’t easy to transfer from one university to<br />

another, especially in the European Union.<br />

It’s either super expensive, or I have to<br />

start from the beginning again. Those<br />

aren’t viable options for me.<br />

I was wondering if you could tell me a<br />

little bit about your treatment in Germany.<br />

As you might have heard, there is a lot<br />

of criticism that Europeans are accepting<br />

Ukrainians with open arms, but aren’t that<br />

welcoming towards other refugees.<br />

Jana: I can talk as a Syrian person only<br />

because I don't know about others. For<br />

me, they didn't treat me badly. I felt that<br />

I was treated almost the same. I think<br />

everything is quite similar. But I know that<br />

Africans get treated very different.<br />

In terms of everything you've experienced,<br />

fleeing one war to another. How are<br />

you coping? Or are you suppressing<br />

everything?<br />

Jana: I'm doing both. I am a two-time<br />

refugee. Having been born a Syrian<br />

woman, I always wanted to become a<br />

doctor. I had my fair share of challenges.<br />

In the last five years, I had to escape from<br />

Russia’s aggression against Syria and<br />

became a refugee.<br />

I then worked hard to enrol at the Sumy<br />

State Medical University in Ukraine, where<br />

I had to escape from another Russian<br />

aggression and became a refugee again.<br />

So now It's very hard for me to be in a<br />

country I don't know much about. I left my<br />

two homes in an unbelievable way. I’m still<br />

traumatised and stressed. I feel fear inside<br />

me all the time, fear from the future and<br />

everything else.<br />

How do you cope with the information war<br />

and the Russian army committing such<br />

atrocities based on lies?<br />

Jana: I met an old person here in<br />

Germany. I don't know if he's German or<br />

not. He was defending what the Russians<br />

are doing in Ukraine. He told me they<br />

didn’t allow people to speak Russian.<br />

Then I told him I was there and that that<br />

is not true, because I speak Ukrainian<br />

as a foreigner and 99% of Ukrainian<br />

citizens speak Russian everywhere within<br />

Ukraine, such as in offices, on the street or<br />

universities, for example.<br />

Then he started telling me I should go back<br />

and read old books to understand that<br />

Russians have the right to do everything<br />

they’re doing. That’s when I understood<br />

there was no point trying to convince him.<br />

What matters in the end are the witnesses<br />

who were present on the ground in<br />

Ukraine, as well as dealing with Ukrainians<br />

on a daily basis. Ukrainians don’t deserve<br />

all what’s happening to them.<br />

Also, there aren’t only Ukrainians in<br />

Ukraine, there are a lot of nationalities. All<br />

the international students felt like we left<br />

our home. We were sad to leave.<br />

But we had to because we had no water,<br />

no food, no electricity and no cash. We<br />

had nothing. It wasn’t safe for us to stay<br />

there.<br />

I just want to add something else. We<br />

are all trying to protect the human rights<br />

of Ukrainian citizens, but who's going to<br />

protect the human rights of international<br />

students who fled Ukraine during the war?<br />

No universities are opening their doors for<br />

us just to continue from where we stopped.<br />

I applied to so many universities, but<br />

haven’t heard back from a single one.<br />

I don’t want to waste my time and start all<br />

over again with my studies. I have escaped<br />

the war in Syria and had to take extra<br />

classes in every country I lived in. I don’t<br />

want to start all over again just because I<br />

fled another war.<br />

Some international students went back<br />

to continue their studies in their home<br />

countries. But what about me, where will I<br />

go back to? To Syria? To another war, to a<br />

threatening and dangerous place?<br />

I can’t even imagine what you’re going<br />

through, I’m so sorry. It’s horrendous how<br />

there are categories of which people will<br />

receive help, and which won’t.<br />

Jana: It is not easy at all. I’m always<br />

worried and overthinking about what<br />

is coming next. Sometimes I have panic<br />

attacks or cry suddenly with non-stop. I’m<br />

willing to stay in Germany, continue my life<br />

here and try to make some differences as a<br />

future doctor in the country that accepted<br />

me as a double refugee. Because I couldn’t<br />

do anything in my home country Syria,<br />

where I belong.<br />

Since Germany helped me, I would like<br />

to do something in return, something to<br />

show the government and society my<br />

appreciation for their support that they<br />

offered me.<br />

Hopefully, in the future, I will be able to<br />

help them and work as a doctor here. But<br />

at this moment, I'm tired, both emotionally<br />

and physically. I'm not ready to face any<br />

new challenges yet.<br />

All photos are provided by courtesy of<br />

Jana. Click here or scan the QR code to<br />

listen to the audio interview. This interview<br />

was originally broadcasted on Refuge<br />

Worldwide.<br />

If you want to keep up with Jana, you can<br />

follow her on Twitter at<br />

@Jana_Kalaaji<br />

117


“The other reason I’m<br />

not going back to the<br />

US right now is that<br />

there’s no place in the<br />

world where I’m safer<br />

than Kharkiv. And<br />

that’s the reality. I’ve<br />

done enough to upset<br />

the Russians.<br />

There’s some concern<br />

over my wellbeing,<br />

but as long as I’m in<br />

Kharkiv Oblast, I’m<br />

dealing with war, but<br />

on a personal level, no<br />

one will be able to get<br />

to me”<br />

That’s how Sarah Ashton-Cirillo closed our<br />

interview end of August. We had a long<br />

conversation about her staying in Ukraine<br />

without ever having experienced war before<br />

and why she feels safer in Ukraine, as a<br />

trans woman, than in the US.<br />

You can listen to the full conversation on<br />

Spotify, Apple Podcast, Refuge Worldwide or<br />

Amazon.<br />

If you want to keep up with Sarah, you can<br />

do so on her Twitter via @SarahAshtonLV or<br />

subscribe to her Newsletter.<br />

Photo by Sarah.<br />

118


DJs<br />

LIVE<br />

PERFORMERS<br />

FILM -<br />

SCREENING<br />

FAMILY<br />

FRIENDLY<br />

WORKSHOPS<br />

PANEL -<br />

DISCUSSIONS<br />

studiopanorama.de<br />

OONA / OHM &<br />

TRESOR GARDEN<br />

and online<br />

30. SEP &<br />

01. OCT 22<br />

REFUGEWORLDWIDE.COM1<strong>19</strong>


AISENBERG<br />

DENIM<br />

Tanja Fedoseeva, Aisenberg Denim founder talks about the difficulties of relocation because of war in Ukraine,<br />

resetting the brand's values, and what comes next.<br />

The AISENBERG label officially launched in 2016, when young and daring entrepreneur from Odesa, Ukraine had<br />

studied in detail all secrets of jeans manufacturing. With her label, the founder is striving to innovate on denim<br />

production, taking a less harmful and more quality-oriented approach. The inspiration behind each AISENBERG<br />

collection comes from her native city Odesa and its beautiful harbour. Now, the label founder and part of the team<br />

has relocated to Germany. The main task is increase awareness and expand the business. Therefore, the brand<br />

decides to launch a new line, called Aisenberg Berlin, more daring and avant-garde.<br />

120


Tell me, what does the brand need to do<br />

to get over the relocation?<br />

Fear is the enemy of progress. Making<br />

any relocation steps, I repeat that<br />

phrase as a mantra, and keep moving<br />

forward. Actually, this stage in the life<br />

of a company is a severe test; it is a<br />

large-scale renewal of all the business<br />

processes and the movement with a large<br />

number of unknown variables. It took me<br />

two months to analyze market demands,<br />

reformat business processes and take<br />

a leap. As I am still figuring out all this<br />

process, it is better to get back to talking<br />

about my suggestions in a year. My main<br />

message to all who roll the dice and get<br />

through such a way is to clearly realize<br />

that the relocation is a highly risky project<br />

that requires great investment.<br />

Why did you choose Berlin?<br />

Berlin breathes with its freedom; it is a<br />

multinational town, one of the most liberal<br />

cities in Germany. The city where people<br />

feel free.<br />

What is the most inspiring thing about<br />

Berlin for you?<br />

The people. I live in one of the youth<br />

districts of Berlin so every day I have a<br />

chance to observe and inspire.<br />

What are your favorite places, pastime in<br />

the city?<br />

Helmut Newton Foundation, Museum<br />

Insel, Qbeach in the summer,<br />

Savignyplatz to sit and watch the<br />

passers-by.<br />

Tell more about the mission of the<br />

AISENBERG Denim line?<br />

Its task is to make women beautiful.<br />

Therefore, we continue to produce perfect<br />

jeans. We are highly motivated and<br />

are working on it 24\7. We have such<br />

huge support from our colleagues and<br />

friends worldwide. This is so touching.<br />

We got attention. Moreover, we believe<br />

it is not just because of the war. We are<br />

incredibly hardworking and creative.<br />

What kind of women do you see in your<br />

clothes?<br />

Self-contained and ambitious modern<br />

women, but those who don’t forget about<br />

their nature, lightness, and comfort,<br />

which actually denim brings, with hints of<br />

sexuality.<br />

What do you think, why do Berlin and<br />

Ukraine have such a close link?<br />

The Ukrainians are democratic,<br />

emotional, individual, religious, peaceful,<br />

and the most important freedom-loving,<br />

they love their patrimony. Berlin is like<br />

a mirror, which reflects most of these<br />

characteristics. It is welcoming as well for<br />

those who are looking for their happiness<br />

in this city, it is multifaceted, multinational,<br />

and the main resemblance - it is free, a<br />

city of free people.<br />

@aisenberg_denim<br />

121


„LOVE AND HOPE ARE SO STRONG AND SO<br />

UNDERESTIMATED BECAUSE THEY’RE SO<br />

ROMANTICISED” – IN CONVERSATION WITH<br />

122LIE NING


Lie Ning’s music is like the embrace of<br />

a hug – warm, comforting and without<br />

judgement. Times are exciting for the<br />

Berlin-based artist, with the release of<br />

Ning’s upcoming single “Offline” coming<br />

up on the 30th of September, followed<br />

by a studio album on the 21st of October.<br />

KALTBLUT. caught up with Ning to chat<br />

about what it’s like to grow up in a squat<br />

in the early 2000s in Berlin and how the<br />

city has changed in general. As everyone<br />

would know: It’s kinda hard finding real<br />

Berliners in Berlin, so as soon as you<br />

find one, you ask them all the questions<br />

about what it’s like growing up in a city<br />

that’s so rich in history, change, and<br />

culture.<br />

123


I've seen that you grew up in<br />

Prenzlauer Berg just after the Berlin<br />

Wall fell. Can you tell me a little bit<br />

about what your childhood in<br />

reunified Germany was like and how<br />

it shaped you as a person and<br />

musician now?<br />

Lie: I, unfortunately, didn’t experience east<br />

Berlin as much as I could have. My mother<br />

and the people I was living in this commune<br />

with 25 people who were all mostly from<br />

Western Germany. They migrated to East<br />

Berlin because of the cheap buildings. There<br />

used to be this programme that helped<br />

people buy property and rebuild completely<br />

rundown houses.<br />

There were so many abandoned buildings!<br />

There was this huge movement of renewal,<br />

which had an impact on me. As a child, I<br />

remember not being able to go anywhere<br />

and being in contact with people you<br />

wouldn't be in contact with now – especially<br />

in Prenzlauer Berg!<br />

I remember one of my Kindergarten teachers<br />

was from East Germany. They were very<br />

loving but very tough. I remember their<br />

style was a lot simpler compared to people<br />

from Western Germany, I loved it. There<br />

was so much potential, everybody felt this<br />

huge opportunity to create and build from<br />

scratch. Because of this newfound energy,<br />

there was no judgement. Another thing was<br />

uncertainty and not knowing what was going<br />

to happen – nobody knew if the wall was<br />

gone! But, at the same time, all of a<br />

sudden, you could just freely move sides. I<br />

was brought up with that kind of energy.<br />

At that time, I was living with many<br />

creatives who based their work on topics<br />

like freedom. I guess that really shaped me<br />

and is still something really important in my<br />

work.<br />

Can you tell me about that commune<br />

you grew up in? It sounds very<br />

unconventional and cool!<br />

Lie: My mother is one of the founders. She<br />

helped to rebuild and refurbish this house<br />

for over two years. They lived on a construction<br />

site. They were young people that<br />

wanted to try to live by a different concept.<br />

Rather than sharing just the necessary<br />

necessities, it was a proper community.<br />

One person was cooking for the 25 people<br />

that lived there, we had political<br />

organisations, there was a food stall where<br />

we could get local and seasonal produce,<br />

and we had neighbourhood parties. There<br />

was a lot to it!<br />

That’s so interesting because<br />

nowadays, Berlin can sometimes be<br />

a cold and lonely city for a lot of<br />

people. It seems within this short<br />

time, the city must have changed<br />

drastically. Do you miss the Berlin<br />

you grew up in?<br />

Lie: It changed so fast, and I lived with the<br />

change. I still appreciate how it is now.<br />

However, Berlin as a city is missing<br />

something, for sure. It is a missing<br />

opportunity for people that cannot afford<br />

the high rents. That's a general problem:<br />

These kinds of safe spaces are missing.<br />

There's still the Tuntenhaus at Kastanienallee,<br />

which we were very much connected<br />

to. These places create spaces for people<br />

that are not legal in this country, because<br />

they are better connected with lawyers, etc.<br />

I think you can feel the lack of these places<br />

in the city.<br />

When you're saying the city sometimes feels<br />

cold, I agree. There are still areas that have<br />

a communal feeling. But, slowly even they<br />

are becoming more and more exclusive and<br />

based on profit and physical exchange.<br />

"Berlin, as a<br />

city, is missing<br />

something.<br />

It is a missing<br />

opportunity for<br />

people that<br />

can not afford<br />

the high rents."<br />

124


125


126


It’s almost like it’s turned into a<br />

business in some way. And what<br />

were your first encounters with<br />

music like?<br />

Lie: My mother was always into music.<br />

I was very young when we started going to<br />

concerts. I remember Seeed was one of the<br />

first concerts I went to, which is incredible. I<br />

still love them. They create such a<br />

beautiful vibe and space when they're performing<br />

while projecting that sense of unity.<br />

They come from that time in Germany where<br />

there was a movement of black and brown<br />

people in the 90s. Unfortunately, it died out<br />

over the years. Back then, a lot of people<br />

were coming here – Berlin was this melting<br />

pot.<br />

Why do you think that is?<br />

Lie: I think it's coming back. From what<br />

I'm feeling in the music scene, it's still<br />

small, and it's not supported as it should<br />

be. There's a big scene of Neo-Soul artists,<br />

which are connecting over the borders of<br />

industry. The German industry is so tight<br />

and outdated, that it's time for someone<br />

else to move into it. I don't think it's<br />

possible to do so from within. It has to come<br />

from the outside because it needs a new<br />

perspective.<br />

I want to talk about your music. If<br />

you had to describe your sound in<br />

three words, what would they be?<br />

Lie: Warm, loving and radical.<br />

I like that! When it comes to starting<br />

as a musician in Berlin. Do you think<br />

it’s easier for you because you’re doing<br />

something else besides Techno?<br />

Lie: Honestly, I think so. For the stuff that<br />

I'm writing right now, I want to integrate a<br />

little Techno. I grew up with Techno and I<br />

desire to create something when the party is<br />

over, and you want to feel embraced. I want<br />

to get to that point after an energetic<br />

line-up and be like: “Okay, we're here now.<br />

You can come down. You're not alone.<br />

Whatever you've taken, whatever person<br />

you got off with. It's all good, you’re good!”<br />

Like an after-party/comedown vibe?<br />

Lie: I would love to see that! Artists like<br />

Billie Eilish, who I love, ask a lot of<br />

questions and start the conversation on a<br />

lot of important topics, such as mental<br />

health for example. But sometimes<br />

there's a lack of answers and a lack of<br />

what now? There needs to be pickup.<br />

Love and hope are so strong and so underestimated<br />

because they’re so<br />

romanticised.<br />

But, it's a practice, a vibe, and something<br />

we can work on. It's probably the<br />

strongest motor in our society. That's<br />

what I'm going to address most.<br />

And, I think that shows in your<br />

music, as well. I want to ask you<br />

for your opinion on how Berlin has<br />

changed when it comes to the<br />

LGBTQ+ community.<br />

Just recently there was a lot of<br />

criticism about the CSD for being<br />

commercial and anti-Trans, for<br />

example.<br />

Lie: I can't tell you to be honest, because<br />

I never went. It was never an event I<br />

enjoyed because I have experienced<br />

both sexism and racism. It's always been<br />

commercialised, I think it's a lie when<br />

people are saying this has changed. Of<br />

course, it's stronger now, but it’s always<br />

been commercial.<br />

To concentrate on that is so sad because<br />

there are just so many events in Berlin<br />

around pride that are political. There are<br />

some incredible demonstrations. When<br />

you go to pride, there are mostly white<br />

people and white gay. There are other<br />

incredible events in the city.<br />

"For the trans<br />

community, it’s not<br />

safe. For black and<br />

brown people it’s not<br />

safe. There are a lot<br />

of Asians and queer<br />

Asians, for them, it’s<br />

also not safe. "<br />

127


Would you say Berlin is a<br />

safe city for queer people?<br />

Lie: No, it’s not. It’s still a lot<br />

better than a lot of other<br />

places because it is such a huge<br />

community. I love going<br />

to Schöneberg sometimes<br />

because I also forget how this<br />

is a place where you can walk<br />

the streets as freely as you<br />

want.<br />

I think it's a terrible thing Berlin<br />

is selling itself like that. Berlin is<br />

profiting and getting a lot from<br />

that reputation because people<br />

come here with an expectation.<br />

It's not. And it's important to<br />

see.<br />

For the trans community, it’s<br />

not safe. For black and brown<br />

people it’s not safe. There are a<br />

lot of Asians and queer Asians,<br />

for them, it’s also not safe.<br />

It all goes back to creating safe<br />

spaces. It's essential in times<br />

like these to establish more of<br />

these spaces, get state funding<br />

for them and let them be led by<br />

people from the community.<br />

Do you have three<br />

places you’d recommend<br />

in Berlin?<br />

Lie: Südblock, Schwuz and the<br />

growing ballroom community.<br />

Lie Ning is going on tour<br />

soon. You can purchase<br />

tickets here.<br />

Follow @lie__ning<br />

on Instagram to keep up<br />

to date on his upcoming<br />

music.<br />

Interview by Johanna Urbancik<br />

Photography by Lukas Städler<br />

@lokkas and Anika Zachow<br />

@zachow_pictures<br />

128


129


FEERIC<br />

Text by Ferric Fashion Week @feericfashionweek<br />

Backstage Photos by Ancira Adeon @anciraadeon<br />

www.feeric.ro<br />

FASHION WEEK<br />

130


The 14th edition of Feeric Fashion Week took<br />

place between July 20st and 24th in Sibiu/<br />

Transylvania/Romania and its surroundings.<br />

Since 2008, Feeric Fashion Week hasw been<br />

a meeting point to explore new trends and<br />

an important national and international<br />

showcase for creatives of the fashion world.<br />

For the 14th edition of Feeric Fashion Week brought,<br />

the focus was on designers and fashion schools from<br />

Eastern Europe that came to Sibiu between July 20<br />

and 24 to present their latest or graduate collections in<br />

unconventional spaces in the city and in Sibiu County. The<br />

fashion shows started with an unconventional show, in an<br />

atypical space, on the spiral that connects the first floor<br />

with the second floor of the Promenada Sibiu shopping<br />

center.<br />

Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus opened the 14th<br />

edition of Feeric Fashion Week with a fall / winter<br />

2022 collection, produced exclusively using cruelty-free<br />

materials, according to the brand's ethical values. A<br />

theme that, by the way, we will find throughout this year's<br />

edition.<br />

In the same space followed the presentation of the<br />

Borbala brand, where the designer used only upcycled<br />

and recycled materials, including melted plastic bags<br />

and then transformed into evening dresses, accessorized<br />

with plastic caps and shampoo boxes. All these surprising<br />

details try to draw attention to the problems caused by<br />

global pollution.<br />

Alist Designers boutique returned to Feeric Fashion Week<br />

with a new selection of pieces by Romanian designers.<br />

The project initiated by Alist Magazine and supported<br />

by Bucharest Mall Vitan, continues to promote local<br />

creations, with over 50 names from the Romanian<br />

industry in the last two years. The presentation of the<br />

collection took place on the pedestrian passage on<br />

Manejului Street. The last presentation of the day took<br />

the audience and guests up the beautiful stairs of the<br />

Brukenthal Summer Palace in Avrig. Present for the<br />

fourth time at Feeric Fashion Week, the RAMELLE brand<br />

presented the Infinity collection at Avrig.<br />

On Friday, the second day of Feeric Fashion Week, at<br />

1 pm, at Cinegold, in Feeric Venue, students in clothing<br />

design from Romania, Poland and Italy presented their<br />

works resulting from their years of study in a large<br />

collective show. Students and graduates of the University<br />

of Art and Design in Cluj Napoca, the Faculty of Visual<br />

Arts and Design in Iași and the University of Timișoara,<br />

the School of Art and Fashion Design in Krakow or the<br />

Istituto Marangoni in Milan took part.<br />

At the end of the series of presentations, Istituto Europeo<br />

di Design and Feeric Fashion Week awarded the young<br />

Romanian designer Vișovan Anamaria Mihaela Mater<br />

from Art + Design Faculty, West University Timisoara with<br />

a full scholarship for the "Summer Course" that will take<br />

place on the IED campus in Barcelona, in July next<br />

year.<br />

From Venue, the fashion shows moved to another<br />

unconventional space, in the Remat warehouse on<br />

the outskirts of Sibiu. Among the cars mutilated<br />

and transformed into old beasts, the pieces of the<br />

new www.dressingz.com garments and HOOLDRA<br />

collection were showcased.<br />

Born out of concern for the planet and love for<br />

fashion, www.dressingz.com is the newest home of<br />

luxury pre-loved garments. In the form of a marketplace,<br />

this is the destination where you can shop and<br />

sell authentic goods, verified by international experts:<br />

from rare vintage items, IT contemporary pieces, and<br />

exclusive garments.<br />

www.dressingz.com is also an inspirational fashion<br />

hub, updating you with the latest trends and fashion<br />

news, or sharing styling ideas.<br />

We invite you all to #DressForTheBiggerPicture<br />

and rethink your shopping habits. Unite with our<br />

community by RE-styling RE-thinking, RE-loving,<br />

RE-inventing and finally, join us in a battle of REmodelling<br />

a polluting industry.<br />

For the second year in a row, the Hooldra brand is<br />

partnering with the Humane Society International in<br />

the global #FurFree campaign, which aims to raise<br />

the alarm about the use of natural furs in fashion.<br />

Everything in the Hooldra collection is "real", from<br />

recycled clothing, leftover fabrics and handmade<br />

shoes with recycled adhesive tapes, to choosing the<br />

location that reflects our environment.<br />

Before the last presentation of the day, at Cinegold<br />

took place a visual installation, entitled Home, at<br />

the origins - Făgăraș Country, a wide campaign of<br />

identity recovery of the traditional port in Romania<br />

and in the territories inhabited by Romanians, as it is<br />

worn and kept in Nowadays.<br />

The project is initiated by the La Blouse Roumaine<br />

community, in partnership with the Ţara Făgăraș<br />

Community Foundation, the Canvas and Storytelling<br />

Museum, Mândra Chic and local volunteers, in order<br />

to reconnect and develop communities through what is<br />

most valuable: cultural heritage. The event started at<br />

6 pm.<br />

Later, at 8 pm, on the terrace of Promenada Sibiu,<br />

the Synergia collection was unveiled to guests and<br />

spectators, a collection of 12 outfits that gives positive<br />

energy and harmony to the shapes that shape the<br />

silhouette, being inspired by the visual identity of<br />

Sibiu Promenade. The collection is made by the<br />

clothing designer Raluca Elena Coșăreanu.<br />

Saturday, the last day of the fashion shows during<br />

Feeric Fashion Week, started at 1 pm with two street<br />

presentations, on the ridge of Centumvirilor Street<br />

in the Historic Center. The first of them is supported<br />

131


DZHUS is a conceptual clothing and<br />

accessories brand founded in 2010 by<br />

Ukrainian designer and stylist<br />

Irina Dzhus. Avant-garde yet utilitarian,<br />

DZHUS designs are internationally recognised<br />

by their innovative cut and multi-purpose<br />

transformations.Since Russia began its attack<br />

on Ukraine, Irina Dzhus had to flee<br />

her Homeland and found her refuge in Western<br />

Europe, travelling between Warsaw, Paris and<br />

Berlin.<br />

Meanwhile, Irina’shusband and business<br />

partner Anatolii Elgert has resumed DZHUS’<br />

production in Kyiv. DZHUS Autumn/Winter<br />

2022 collection refers to illusion as the<br />

fundamental notion of the metamodernism<br />

culture. Duality and hidden senses are<br />

undividable from DZHUS design itself, offering<br />

numerous metamorphoses of clothing and<br />

accessories, and clothing into accessories.<br />

The visual aesthetics of the looks is ironic and<br />

controversial within itself, hence, self-sufficient.<br />

In the Autumn/Winter line of unified wardrobe<br />

items, the designer’s fantasy went further than<br />

functional ‘bonuses’: duplicity is materialised<br />

literally, and the extra content is physically<br />

unveiled, as the pieces are transformed either<br />

when delaminated, or once their inside is<br />

extracted. The silhouettes are exaggeratedly<br />

structured, and the styles divide into two<br />

directions: abstract-escapist ‘cocoons’ versus<br />

markedly classic pieces, concealing potential<br />

for radical reincarnations. The collection is<br />

produced using cruelty-free materials only,<br />

according to DZHUS’ ethical values.<br />

DZHUS<br />

www.instagram.com/dzhus.conceptual.wear<br />

www.irinadzhus.com<br />

132


y the Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan, by<br />

a Romanian designer, graduate of the institute,<br />

Marinela Djurdj.<br />

Then, Andreea Pleşa presented the InBetween<br />

project, a project that wants to sound the alarm<br />

on the excessive consumerism that underlies the<br />

clothing industry, the collection thus becoming a<br />

spokesperson to draw attention to both material<br />

and physical abuses that it uses fast fashion.<br />

From Centumvirilor, the Feeric “caravan” moved to<br />

the industrial setting of the Boromir factory, where<br />

in the geometric space on the top floor of the<br />

factory we saw a new collection signed by Bianca<br />

Popp, the longest-lived designer present at Feeric<br />

Fashion Week.<br />

OUT OF THE BOX is a collection about the<br />

emotions that grow in us if we ignore them,<br />

until they come to dominate us, a collection of<br />

evening dresses so exatravagant that they become<br />

characters, made of rustling taffeta<br />

The fashion shows ended with the most awaited<br />

and well-known event of the fashion week in<br />

Sibiu, the Feeric Gala. For the first time since<br />

its establishment, the Gala did not take place<br />

in the Small Square but in the courtyard of the<br />

Evangelical Church in Huet Square. Was a gala<br />

full of pomp and surprises, with quality music and<br />

seven fashion shows that were more and more<br />

spectacular. As every year, the host of the gala<br />

was the TV star Cosmina Păsărin.<br />

"We are at the 14th edition of Feeric Fashion<br />

Week, the journey so far is incredible. We have<br />

managed to bring Sibiu to a place of great honor<br />

on the European fashion scene, to become the<br />

most important fashion week in Eastern Europe<br />

and one of the most creative in the world, but<br />

things are really starting now, with this edition of<br />

transition that prepares a new path.<br />

Thus, we will add continuity to the project by<br />

approaching an educational segment and by<br />

involving the local community. We continue to offer<br />

designers the most suitable launching pad through<br />

the connections created over these 14 years<br />

around the world and we will try to turn Feeric<br />

Fashion Week into a huge global fashion hub. And<br />

we are proud to create everything in Sibiu", says<br />

Mitichi, founder and president of Feeric Fashion<br />

Week.<br />

FEERIC<br />

FASHION WEEK<br />

133


FEERIC<br />

FASHION WEEK<br />

134


DZHUS<br />

135


BORBALA<br />

Will humans have a place in the new world defined by the consequences<br />

of our actions? Who is in fact endangered? The collection features<br />

many recycled and upcycled materials, such as melted plastic bags,<br />

recycled HDPE, reworked sportswear, and knitwear. Low-tech waterproof<br />

garments are one of the key items of the collection, referring to the<br />

dramatic consequences of climate change, that unfortunately many<br />

communities are already experiencing.<br />

The prints and accessories are inspired by different unicellular organisms<br />

playing with the utopian idea of new life forms rising from this chaos of<br />

the Anthropocene, and nature's capability to always renew and evolve.<br />

The silhouettes are playful and feminine, some of them incorporating<br />

elements from maternity clothes, as a symbol of change and the chance<br />

of rebirth. The diy finishings, childish drawings are an open invitation for<br />

anyone to be part of the change. We can all be creative and contribute<br />

to a better future.<br />

@b_o_r_b_a_l_a_<br />

AIDA LORENA<br />

Before presenting the collection, designers Aida Lorena and Claudia<br />

would like to thank the organizers of the Feeric festival for all the<br />

support they have shown in the last four years and for all the wonderful<br />

challenges they have encountered since then. The "New" 2022<br />

collection tells the story of the spiritual alphabet of numbers from zero to<br />

nine with the help of colors and elements inspired by sacred geometry.<br />

Numbers have been and will remain consciousness and the primary<br />

and infinite source of inspiration from the beginning of time. Their story<br />

begins in a vacuum and contains all the stages of the creation of the<br />

universe, matter, and the human being. Too many words would load the<br />

imagination of the spectator, so the designers of the collection will leave<br />

an open door to the world of fantasy in which the creation creates itself<br />

through your pupil. And as if by magic, the story becomes ours!<br />

@aidalorenaatelier<br />

ALEXANDRA CATRANGIU STUDIO<br />

Inspired by the abstract paintings of Al Held (an abstract expressionist painter),<br />

I've created the Echo minimalist collection, named right after one of his works,<br />

bringing into focus and re-enacting the circle bicolor element. The circle<br />

represents evolution as a transformational process, the beginning and the end,<br />

the eternity.<br />

Minimalism never begins or ends, the joining of black and white continue<br />

to move within the circle, elegantly. The natural, sustainable materials also<br />

transform themselves on the line of time. The entire universe of sustainable<br />

clothing maintains things in a constant state of movement, a progression that<br />

inspires me towards continuit.<br />

@alexandracatrangiustudio<br />

FEERIC<br />

136<br />

FASHION WEEK


FEERIC<br />

FASHION WEEK<br />

BIANCA POPP<br />

OUT OF THE BOX, is a collection about the emotions that grow inside<br />

us when ignored, up to the point of bursting out and controlling us.<br />

It us a collection of evening dresses so extravagant that they become<br />

characters, made of noisy taffeta, so that not even those with the eyes<br />

in their phones would not miss their entrance.<br />

Loss of function, the last dress in the show, was inspired by the<br />

multicolored spinning wheel that tells us that the computer is blocked.<br />

@biancapoppofficial<br />

BIANCA RIPAN<br />

The concept around this collection is "the will to empower '' inspired from<br />

the woman's strength to rebuild herself after a trauma or disappointment,<br />

reshaping herself stronger every time and more aware of her own<br />

strengths. This collection is more than a storyline, it's a walk within the soul<br />

as nothing from what rebuilds herself has been randomly used or chosen,<br />

but rather as a form of expression, a metaphor. The materials used like:<br />

leather, latex, tulle are a gradual openness towards people and society.<br />

Also, the closure systems as well as the cutting design itself reveal the<br />

woman who now Knows what she has to do.<br />

This collection basically represents an extension of every woman's<br />

personality ( either revealed or not) who managed to rebuild herself from<br />

ashes at least once! It's a manifest of well deserved empowerment!<br />

@bianca.ripan<br />

DRESSINGZ<br />

Born out of concern for the planet and love for fashion, Dressingz<br />

is the newest home of luxury pre-loved garments. In the form of<br />

a market-place, this is the destination where you can shop and<br />

sell authentic goods, verified by international experts: from rare<br />

vintage items, IT contemporary pieces, and exclusive garments<br />

coming directly from our famous friends' dressings, to a wide<br />

selection of goods uploaded by fashion enthusiasts.<br />

Dressingz is also an inspirational fashion hub, updating you with<br />

the latest trends and fashion news, or sharing styling ideas. We<br />

invite you all to #DressForTheBiggerPicture and rethink your<br />

shopping habits. Unite with our community by RE-styling REthinking,<br />

RE-loving, RE-inventing and finally, join us in a battle of<br />

RE-modelling a polluting industry.<br />

@dressingz_store<br />

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HOOLDRA<br />

Hooldra is a responsible upcycling brand and we are used to seeing its<br />

marvelous collaborations with emerging creatives for a new ethical standard<br />

in fashion. For the new collection, with considerably less impact on the<br />

environment, HOOLDRA involved once again Mira Wanderlust and Jacqueline<br />

Barth. On the first side, Mira wants to reflect a kind of punk concept by mixing<br />

raw hand-painted fabrics, unfinished art and graffiti with an aesthetic approach.<br />

The idea is to reflect the interior youth, no matter the age.<br />

Jacqueline, instead, shows us the importance of upcycling, reflecting through<br />

tiny details that re-using garments and accessories is always a solution for a<br />

better environment. We can see a kind of enthusiasm, a challenge to do the<br />

best with what you already have. Creativity gains a main role when you are<br />

scarce. Jacqueline completes the styling with accessories like chains and safety<br />

pins. Everything in the collection is ‘real’, starting from the deadstock upcyled<br />

garments, leftover fabrics and hand-made shoes with recycled adhesive bands,<br />

to the choice of the location to reflect our environment and the choice of the<br />

models. The artistic moment will be joined by a media campaign initiated by<br />

Feeric Fashion Week and Humane Society International in Romania, which aims<br />

to stop the use of furs and natural leather in fashion creations.<br />

@hooldra<br />

CASI COUTURE<br />

Casi Couture created the Own The Moment collection for the woman proud of her sexuality, who loves luxury, attention, and<br />

to draw all eyes on her, to remain an unforgettable memory in the eyes of viewers. The transparent tulle hand-accessorized<br />

in hundreds of hours of work with extremely precious elements, transposes the inner brilliance of the invincible woman to the<br />

outside, the fragility of the feathers show us at the same time how fragile a strong woman can be, while the pearls remind us<br />

about the elegance and the refinement of the feminine beauty.<br />

@casi.couture<br />

138<br />

FEERIC<br />

FASHION WEEK


SANDRA CHIRA<br />

Dear Spacegirl - RTW 2023 Sandra Chira<br />

translates into clothing language a fragment<br />

from the designer's childhood. "After skiing,<br />

at the end of spring, I used to pick crocus<br />

flowers ...". In the winter of this year, the<br />

mountain landscape followed the same<br />

delicate aesthetic, but it had more plastic<br />

bags and snowy packaging than flowers.<br />

The project has the role of a self-portrait<br />

- subtly incorporating in some technical<br />

details specific to the retro ski suit, brought<br />

in a feminine context of warm and cold<br />

whites, shades of pink, blue and colored<br />

grays. The graphic elements speculated in<br />

prints and textile structures are the spring<br />

flowers whose root grows in plastic bags.<br />

@sandra.chira<br />

139


IN CONVERSATION<br />

WITH VITSCHE<br />

140


Interview by Johanna Urbancik<br />

Photos provided by Julia Sonata & Chris Knickerbocker.<br />

IF YOU’VE GONE TO ANY UKRAINE-PROTEST IN BERLIN, YOU’VE<br />

PROBABLY COME ACROSS THEM. THEY WERE ACTIVE FROM THE<br />

SECOND TENSIONS ROSE AND HAVE DONE SEEMINGLY<br />

EVERYTHING POSSIBLE TO SPREAD THE MESSAGE IN BERLIN.<br />

WE CAUGHT UP WITH KRISTA, VITSCHE’S PRESS MANAGER,<br />

TO TALK TO HER ABOUT THE MEANING OF VITSCHE AND HOW<br />

A YOUNG GROUP OF PEOPLE HELPED TO CREATE SUCH A BIG<br />

SENSE OF COMMUNITY.<br />

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What’s the meaning of “vitsche”?<br />

Krista: It's a very old word in the<br />

Ukrainian language, already present<br />

in the early stages of Ukrainian<br />

society since around the sixth century.<br />

It's a council that makes decisions<br />

and changes together to represent<br />

a community. That’s why we named<br />

our organisation like that. It’s of big<br />

significance in the Ukrainian heritage<br />

and has become ever more important<br />

since 2014.<br />

It's the perfect name for an<br />

organisation like yours. Have you<br />

been active since 2014? Or did you<br />

start around February earlier this<br />

year?<br />

Krista: We started in January 2022<br />

and organised the first protests, when<br />

it was already notable that tensions ran<br />

quite high at the borders. We asked<br />

the European Union and Germany for<br />

sanctions and to send weapons in advance,<br />

so Ukraine would be prepared<br />

in case something happened. Of<br />

course, the protests before the 24th of<br />

February were quite small. We were in<br />

front of the Russian Embassy and the<br />

Brandenburger Tor. No sanctions and<br />

no weapon deliveries from Germany<br />

were happening at this time.<br />

But then, on the 24th of February, we<br />

came together and organised the first<br />

big protests. And from that on, we<br />

organised one or two protests every<br />

week until July. Now, we cut back<br />

because of the summer break.<br />

Come autumn, we’ll try to be more<br />

conceptual about the protests – so<br />

they create a bigger impact.<br />

Each one of your protests, as you<br />

said, has a message and a sense of<br />

community, which I think is very<br />

interesting and unique.<br />

Can you tell me a little bit about<br />

the Ukrainian community in Berlin<br />

before February?<br />

Krista: In Berlin, there was a<br />

Ukrainian community before. Some<br />

Ukrainian organisations have been<br />

providing aid to Ukraine since at<br />

least 2014, such as Ukraine-Hilfe<br />

Berlin e.V., and Plast. . I think some<br />

activists, who are a little older than<br />

us, tried to build a community, but as<br />

far as I know, there wasn’t that big of<br />

a Ukrainian community here.<br />

Before the full-scale invasion,<br />

Ukrainians were more present in the<br />

so-called post-Soviet places. Now,<br />

most Ukrainians are distancing themselves<br />

from this community, as it's<br />

often very hostile to Ukrainians, and<br />

we don’t feel understood. It’s also not<br />

good for Ukrainian subjectivity.<br />

Since February, everything has<br />

changed. So, of course, a lot of people<br />

came to Germany. We're speaking<br />

about one million refugees from<br />

Ukraine now.<br />

A lot of them came to Berlin.<br />

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Now, we have a very huge and very strong<br />

community with a strong identity. We're<br />

Ukrainian, we don't want to be simply defined<br />

as post-Soviet, we have our own culture,<br />

heritage, and identity. This perception of<br />

subjectivity among the diaspora was not as<br />

strong before 2022.<br />

So, Vitsche came about around a month<br />

before the full-scale invasion. How did you<br />

cope with that sudden influx of refugees? It<br />

must have turned into a full-time job from<br />

one day to another with you being thrown<br />

from living a relatively normal life, to<br />

having to deal with war. How did you, as an<br />

organisation, deal with that?<br />

Krista: It was chaotic. We weren’t an official<br />

NGO yet in the beginning, which made it<br />

difficult for us to raise money. If we wanted<br />

to raise money, we had to do it through the<br />

bank accounts of NGOs we helped with<br />

communication work for their fundraising<br />

campaigns<br />

From one day to another, we had a lot of<br />

people who were scared about their relatives,<br />

the threat to Ukrainian identity and the<br />

uncertainty of what was going to happen. We<br />

experienced this huge amount of grief, and<br />

Vitsche helped a lot of us to connect, help<br />

and feel useful. Just like that, people s<br />

uddenly had 12- to 14-hour work days, some<br />

even quit their jobs or paused their studies,<br />

so they could help out full-time, while others<br />

helped out on top of a full-time job.<br />

Some even had to change jobs because their<br />

employers weren’t happy with their side<br />

engagements. It had a big impact on all of<br />

us. We now have this term called “War-Life-<br />

Balance”, which sums up this chaotic state<br />

in the beginning. We were working non-stop<br />

and didn’t have any time to process. So many<br />

of us don't even remember the first weeks or<br />

months of the invasion, there was just no time<br />

to think about what's going on.<br />

I know what you mean. The last six months<br />

seem like they've gone past very, very<br />

quickly, but at the same time, a lot has<br />

happened. Out of curiosity, are there only<br />

Ukrainians working at Vitsche?<br />

Krista: It's mostly Ukrainians. We have some<br />

Germans and other nationalities helping out,<br />

but I would say it’s 90% Ukrainians.<br />

Are some of the refugees who are now based<br />

in Berlin working with you too? I remember<br />

going to one of your protests with my friend<br />

from Kyiv, and he recognised a couple of<br />

people.<br />

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Krista: Exactly! We have a lot of<br />

refugees in the team. It changed a<br />

lot, though, because, in the beginning,<br />

everyone was activated and<br />

wanted to do as much as they could<br />

when they arrived.<br />

But then, people got overwhelmed<br />

and didn't want to be confronted with<br />

the war all the time, they needed<br />

distance because it was too much<br />

for them emotionally. Some people<br />

also went back to Ukraine. As a core<br />

team, we haven't changed much.<br />

How do you deal with the fact, that<br />

the conversation about Ukraine is<br />

slowly getting less?<br />

Krista: It was one of the toughest<br />

realisations when we saw that<br />

throughout the summer. It seemed<br />

people stopped caring as much as<br />

they did in the beginning. I'm working<br />

with the media, so I noticed that<br />

people started losing interest in July.<br />

The conversation is now focused on<br />

Germany – on the rising gas prices<br />

and the energy crisis. That’s fair.<br />

But sometimes it seems there is this<br />

lack of understanding of how bad<br />

it still is in Ukraine. A lot of people<br />

were very hurt and took refuge in the<br />

community because here, everyone is<br />

still speaking about it doing as much<br />

as they can.<br />

We don't have that if we leave our<br />

Ukrainian space. When talking to<br />

German friends, politicians or journalists,<br />

it is noticeable that it’s not<br />

the top priority anymore. Of course,<br />

that’s normal on the one side, but if<br />

you're personally affected, it hurts.<br />

Since the influx of Ukrainian<br />

refugees, there’s been a big conversation<br />

about racism in Germany and<br />

how Ukrainian refugees are treated<br />

fairer and better than other refugees.<br />

Have you received any criticism<br />

like that?<br />

Krista: No, we didn’t. We are also<br />

working with an organisation that is<br />

taking care of refugees that have a<br />

different citizenship, not EU or<br />

Ukrainian, and supports BIPOCs<br />

that were living in or/and studying in<br />

Ukraine. As organisations, we have<br />

different struggles.<br />

The “Third country nationals” have it<br />

much tougher in Germany. The conversation<br />

about how much systematic<br />

racism they face here isn’t big enough.<br />

There were a lot of headlines at the<br />

beginning of the full scale invasion<br />

about how they were treated at the<br />

borders. But, there was no outcry<br />

about how they are treated in<br />

Germany by German officials or by the<br />

German system.<br />

This is a big problem because here<br />

come the main challenges—for<br />

example when it comes to paragraph<br />

24. Together with other organizations<br />

we fight for every person that fled from<br />

the Russian war in Ukraine and faces<br />

systematic discrimination in Germany.<br />

What can we expect from Vitsche in<br />

the upcoming couple of weeks and<br />

months?<br />

Krista: Early September, we had a<br />

small team in Lviv doing our theatre<br />

performance at a festival. We stay in<br />

touch with Ukrainian organisations,<br />

civil society and the culture sector<br />

to understand what is needed in our<br />

home country and how we can help<br />

In a way you’re the German<br />

representatives in Ukraine.<br />

Krista: From the civil society, yes, in<br />

some way.<br />

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Keep up with Vitsche on Instagram @vitsche_berlin,<br />

or explore their resources and projects via their<br />

website: vitsche.org


153


Book Club<br />

EDUCATE YOURSELF<br />

01<br />

Jasmina Kuhnke is an unmistakable voice<br />

in the fight against racism in this country. In<br />

her first novel, she talks about what it does<br />

to you to always stand out. The protagonist<br />

of her book, a black first-person narrator,<br />

grows up on the outskirts of the Ruhr area<br />

in the <strong>19</strong>90s. At home, a violent stepfather<br />

rages, at school there is little support, but a<br />

lot of exclusion.<br />

At a children's birthday party, a neo-Nazi<br />

suddenly appears in the door when the bell<br />

rings. The protagonist knows what it's like<br />

to expect the worst every day until the worst<br />

becomes a given. Where doors open for<br />

others, they close more and more for the<br />

first-person narrator until she herself is<br />

convinced that she has nothing to offer the<br />

world. She gets into a violent relationship,<br />

cementing the dependency with two<br />

pregnancies. Only when it is almost too late<br />

does she manage to free herself and the<br />

children. Kuhnke's book shows how racism<br />

weaves itself into the souls of the people<br />

affected. It won't let anyone go anytime<br />

soon because it hurts.<br />

SCHWARZES HERZ BY JASMINA KUHNKE<br />

GET IT VIA<br />

WWW.ROWOHLT.DE<br />

154


02<br />

In 2018, Ahmed M. Badr – an Iraqi-American poet<br />

and former refugee - traveled around the world to<br />

gather narratives and creative contributions from<br />

dozens of displaced young refugees living in<br />

camps as well as those adjusting to life after<br />

resettlement.<br />

While the Earth Sleeps We Travel is a collection of<br />

young voices -including Badr’s own poetry- that<br />

explore the concept of “home” and the<br />

complexities of displacement.<br />

WHILE THE EARTH SLEEPS WE TRAVEL<br />

BY AHMED M. BADR<br />

GET IT VIA<br />

WWW.EARTHSLEEPSWETRAVEL.COM<br />

03<br />

Out of the impoverished coal regions of Ukraine known as the<br />

Donbass, where Russian secret military intervention coexists<br />

with banditry and insurgency, the women of Yevgenia<br />

Belorusets’s captivating collection of stories emerge from the<br />

ruins of a war, still being waged on and off, ever since the 2014<br />

Revolution of Dignity. Through a series of unexpected<br />

encounters, we are pulled into the ordinary lives of these<br />

anonymous women: a florist, a cosmetologist, card players,<br />

readers of horoscopes, the unemployed, and a witch who<br />

catches newborns with a mitt. One refugee tries<br />

unsuccessfully to leave her broken umbrella behind as if it<br />

were a sick relative; a private caregiver in a disputed zone<br />

saves her elderly charge from the angel of death; a woman sits<br />

down on International Women’s Day and can no longer stand<br />

up; a soldier decides to marry war. Belorusets threads these<br />

tales of ebullient survival with a mix of humor, verisimilitude,<br />

the undramatic, and a profound Gogolian irony. She also<br />

weaves in twenty-three photographs that, in lyrical and<br />

historical counterpoint, form their own remarkable visual<br />

narrative.<br />

LUCKY BREAKS BY YEVGENIA BELORUSETS<br />

GET IT VIA<br />

WWW.AMAZON.COM<br />

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chereshnivska.com<br />

www.instagram.com/chereshnivska<br />

CHERESHNIVSKA<br />

D U R I N G H E L S I N K I F A S H I O N ,<br />

W E E K T H E U K R A I N I A N B R A N D<br />

C H E R E S H N I V S K A P R E S E N T E D<br />

A N E W S U S T A I N A B L E<br />

C O L L E C T I O N 2 4 0 2 D E D I C A T E D<br />

T O T H E R E C E N T E X P E R I E N C E S<br />

O F T H E I R N A T I O N . T H E<br />

I M A G E S I N T H E S H O W , O N E B Y<br />

O N E , C O N V E Y T H E S T A T E O F A<br />

E U R O P E A N P E R S O N I N W H O S E<br />

H O M E W A R H A S C O M E .<br />

E U R O P E A N S , B E C A U S E T H E Y<br />

A R E U K R A I N I A N S . T H E<br />

C O L L E C T I O N I S A S Y M B O L O F<br />

T H E E M O T I O N A L S T A T E O F A N<br />

E N T I R E N A T I O N T H A T I S<br />

D E S P E R A T E L Y F I G H T I N G F O R<br />

A N O R M A L L I F E .<br />

"First of all, I wanted to support<br />

everyone who is currently<br />

experiencing it and remind<br />

them that they are not alone in<br />

this "journey". At the same<br />

time, we want to once again<br />

draw attention to the war in<br />

Ukraine. After all, art is also a<br />

weapon, - noted the designer<br />

of the brand Anastasiya<br />

Rozava, - The real experience of<br />

our team is daily air alarms and<br />

the unknown. We are gloomy,<br />

but with a fighting spirit, so the<br />

collection is flashy and bold.”<br />

It all starts with vulnerability<br />

and panic. Dark purple,<br />

burgundy and orange outfits<br />

open the collection. Next we<br />

see transparent fabrics and<br />

textures. This is a break, a limit,<br />

a bare nerve.<br />

Then comes the phase of<br />

acceptance and imitation of<br />

normal life.<br />

Сoffee on the way to work,<br />

walking with loved ones and<br />

planning for the future.<br />

But night air alarms and<br />

missile attacks are continuing.<br />

So the collection ends with<br />

grey and black tones, - prints of<br />

explosions and clouds of<br />

smoke over Ukrainian cities.<br />

Some looks were created in<br />

collaboration with Tereza<br />

Barabash, a Ukrainian textile<br />

artist. She created a series of<br />

lightweight hand woven<br />

fabrics from the pieces that<br />

would otherwise end up<br />

unused.


Tereza's works are in museums and<br />

private collections all over the world.<br />

Other looks are made from second-hand<br />

items, vintage parachutes and organic<br />

textiles.<br />

Deconstructivism and asymmetry<br />

reinforce the main idea of the collection.<br />

The oversized styles and straight cut<br />

make it gender neutral.<br />

Music for the show by Yuri Dyadka helps<br />

the viewer emotionally immerse for a<br />

few minutes.<br />

The 2402 collection will be available for<br />

pre-order in September 2022. Existing<br />

collections can be purchased now on the<br />

brand's website.<br />

"We believe that design combined with<br />

artistic value and a sustainable practice<br />

will always matter.<br />

CHERESHNIVSKA a is a Ukrainebased<br />

unisex brand founded in 2016.<br />

We are focusing on innovations<br />

and sustainability. Till 2024, 50% of<br />

production will be made from recycled<br />

items. All our designs are available in<br />

very limited quantities.<br />

Most feature the unique hand-drawn<br />

prints by our creative director Anastasiya<br />

Rozava. Every collection is driven by a<br />

strong core idea, yet still open for an<br />

interpretation. We try to reflect the<br />

modern world and show it through the<br />

designs and prints."<br />

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JEAN<br />

CLARACQ<br />

INTERVIEW BY FLEUR HELLUIN<br />

GALERIESULTANA.COM/ARTISTS/JEAN-CLARACQ<br />

INSTAGRAM : @JEANCLARACQ<br />

TIKTOKING IN<br />

THE MIDDLE AGES<br />

I AM BUT A SHEEP, SO LET ME HOWL<br />

WITH WOLVES, AS I SHARE WITH YOU MY<br />

LOVE FOR JEAN CLARACQ. BORN IN <strong>19</strong>91<br />

IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE, CLARACQ<br />

GRADUATED FROM THE BEAUX-ARTS IN<br />

PARIS IN 2017. HE HAS SINCE WON<br />

NUMEROUS AWARDS AND HELD PRESTIGIOUS<br />

SHOWS ALL OVER FRANCE.<br />

I FIRST FELL IN LOVE WITH THE SPACE<br />

IN HIS WORK - IT’S COMPRESSED, LIKE<br />

A SOLID 128 MP3. YOU CAN FEEL THE<br />

INFLUENCE OF THE 3D AESTHETIC, BUT<br />

ALSO OF THE FLEMISH PRIMITIVES. IT'S<br />

WEIRD TO SEE ARTICLES DESCRIBING HIS<br />

WORK AS ULTRA-MODERN, BECAUSE, TO<br />

ME, IT REPRESENTS THE YEARS 1430 –<br />

1480, IN A GOOD WAY.<br />

LOOK AT HOW THE FIGURES SPREAD<br />

ACROSS THE SURFACE,<br />

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HOW DO YOU START YOUR DAY?<br />

WHEN I GO TO THE STUDIO, USUALLY<br />

THE FIRST THING I DO IS CHECK<br />

WHETHER THE WORK FROM THE DAYS<br />

BEFORE IS DRYING THE WAY I THOUGHT<br />

IT WOULD.<br />

THEN I TIDY UP WHILE I AM DRINKING<br />

MY COFFEE. I LIKE TO CLEAN MY<br />

PALETTE EVERY TWO TO THREE DAYS.<br />

THE IDEA IS TO WARM UP BY DOING<br />

LITTLE JOBS AROUND THE PAINTINGS,<br />

SO I'M MORE FOCUSED AND CALM ONCE<br />

I START TO PAINT.<br />

IF YOU HAD TO PAINT ONE THING OVER<br />

AND OVER WHAT WOULD IT BE?<br />

A VIEW FROM A WINDOW WOULD BE A<br />

SUBJECT I COULD PAINT OVER AND<br />

OVER. DO I HAVE TO CHOOSE WHICH<br />

WINDOW?<br />

THE IDEA OF PAINTING THE SAME<br />

THING FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE<br />

SOUNDS STRESSFUL, BUT AT THE SAME<br />

TIME, WHEN I LOOK AT MY WORK I DO<br />

GET THE SENSE SOMETIMES THAT THERE<br />

IS A FEELING THAT KEEPS COMING<br />

BACK...<br />

DO YOU LIKE EXHIBITING YOUR WORK?<br />

WHAT DO YOU DO DURING THE<br />

OPENINGS?<br />

YES. I ALWAYS FEEL BLESSED TO SHOW<br />

MY WORK.<br />

AT THE SAME TIME, I FIND OPENINGS<br />

TO BE A VERY DIFFICULT EXERCISE.<br />

THEY'RE SO INTIMIDATING, THAT IT<br />

MAKES ME FEEL DIZZY. IF I WERE A<br />

BIT MORE COURAGEOUS. I PROBABLY<br />

WOULD NOT GO.<br />

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO<br />

THINK ABOUT A NEW PAINTING?<br />

I USED TO GO TO THE LIBRARY A LOT,<br />

ESPECIALLY THE ONE AT CENTRE<br />

POMPIDOU. BUT SINCE THE START OF<br />

THE PANDEMIC, I STOPPED.<br />

I LIKE TO COMPOSE PAINTINGS IN MY<br />

APARTMENT, TOO. IT’S QUIET AND I<br />

CAN WALK IN A TINY CIRCLE WHEN I<br />

DON’T KNOW HOW TO MAKE THE<br />

COMPOSITION MORE SATISFYING.<br />

WHAT IS YOUR RELATION TO PAST<br />

PAINTERS, AND THE HISTORY OF ART?<br />

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME. THE<br />

HISTORY OF PAINTINGS IS A<br />

VOCABULARY OF FORMS THAT ARE<br />

ALWAYS LINKED TO A CONTEXT.<br />

THIS LONG HISTORY, BEING ABLE TO<br />

HAVE A DIALOGUE WITH THE PAST IS<br />

WHAT MAKES PAINTING SUCH A<br />

POWERFUL WAY TO EXPRESS HUMAN<br />

SENSIBILITY.<br />

WHICH QUESTION WOULD YOU LIKE TO<br />

ASK YOUR PAINTING IDOL?<br />

I WOULD LOVE TO MEET AN ARTIST<br />

LIKE BENVENUTO CELLINI,<br />

HIERONYMOUS BOSCH, MATTHIAS<br />

GRÜNEWALD, AND ALL THOSE HUGE<br />

MASTERS TO SEE IF THEY WERE KIND<br />

TO PEOPLE, OR AS DARK AS SOME<br />

HISTORIANS SAY. AND TO TALK ABOUT<br />

THEIR FAITH AND THE THEOLOGICAL<br />

CONTENT OF THEIR WORK.<br />

WITH MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY<br />

ARTISTS I WOULD BE DELIGHTED TO<br />

MEET AND TALK ABOUT THE SUBJECTS<br />

THAT FASCINATE ME.<br />

BUT ULTIMATELY, I DON'T THINK IT'S<br />

IMPORTANT TO TALK TO AN ARTIST.<br />

THE MAIN RULE OF PAINTING IS TO<br />

MEET THE OBJECT, AND I HAVE TO SAY<br />

I APPRECIATE THIS CONSTRAINT.<br />

HOW DID YOU DEVELOP THE WORK<br />

YOU’RE DOING NOW?<br />

I AM WORKING ON SOME DIFFERENT<br />

SCULPTURE PROJECTS. TWO OF THEM<br />

ARE OLD IDEAS I HAD FIVE OR SIX<br />

YEARS AGO. I ALWAYS HAD SCULPTURE<br />

AS PART OF MY PRACTICE, BUT<br />

PAINTING IS SO IMPORTANT TO ME<br />

THAT IT TAKES ALL MY TIME.<br />

HOW DID YOU MEET YOUR FAVOURITE<br />

COLLECTOR?<br />

I DON’T KNOW THAT MANY COLLECTORS.<br />

THE COLLECTOR I KNOW WHO OWNS<br />

SEVERAL PIECES OF MY WORK WAS A<br />

FRIEND BEFORE COLLECTING MY WORK.<br />

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WHY DO WE STILL PAINT IN 2022?<br />

WE STILL PAINT IN 2022 FOR THE SAME REASONS WE STILL<br />

WRITE AND READ BOOKS, COMPOSE AND PLAY MUSIC OR DANCE.<br />

CULTURE IS A NATURAL WAY OF BEING AS HUMANS. WE HAVE A<br />

VOCABULARY WE USE TO CONNECT WITH THE PAST AND WITH<br />

OTHERS.<br />

PAINTING REMAINS RELEVANT AMIDST ALL THE NEW WAYS TO<br />

PRODUCE IMAGES. AND IT IS NOT EXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE IN<br />

COMPARISON WITH MANY OTHER ARTS. BUT YOU STILL HAVE TO<br />

SEE THE WORK IN PERSON, WHICH CAN BE IN CONTRADICTION<br />

WITH THE IDEA OF DEMOCRACY.<br />

WHICH DIRECTION IS ART HEADING?<br />

I GUESS FIGURATION HAS A LOT OF ATTENTION NOW. SO, IT’S<br />

PROBABLY GOING TO BALANCE WITH A MORE MINIMALISTIC<br />

APPROACH SOONER OR LATER. I NOTICED THAT THE YOUNGER<br />

GENERATION SEEMS TO CREATE ART THAT CONNECTS WITH THE<br />

TECH WORLD. I MEAN, LESS ARTIFICIALLY THAN MY<br />

GENERATION. I GUESS SOME INTERESTING WORKS OF ART<br />

SHOULD APPEAR IN THAT DIRECTION TOO.<br />

CAN YOU TELL ME 3 COLLEAGUES WHOSE WORK YOU ADMIRE?<br />

(FACULTATIVE)<br />

NATHANAELLE HERBELIN, SIMON MARTIN AND APOLONIA SOKOL<br />

(3 AMONGST MANY!)<br />

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galeriesultana.com/artists/jean-claracq<br />

instagram: @jeanclaracq<br />

Interview: @fleur_helluin<br />

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P R O J E C T O F R E S I D E N T S O F T H E U K R A I N I A N<br />

C U L T U R A L C O M M U N I T Y B Y D E S I G N E R<br />

A L I N A C O M A A N D P H O T O G R A P H E R<br />

Y A R O S L A V R A S H E V S K Y I .<br />

Childhood<br />

The price of Russia’s war against Ukraine is 361 dead<br />

children and over 700 injured ones* - confirmed and<br />

documented cases only. Numbers are growing daily…<br />

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«A scaled white children’s<br />

dress is a symbol of purity<br />

for me. The floral print is a<br />

symbol of joy and life. On<br />

the top of the flowers, I place<br />

guns-tools for killing children.<br />

The form characterizes the<br />

lightness and purity of<br />

children’s consciousness. The<br />

contrasting print speaks of<br />

a tragedy that could not be<br />

avoided.» - Alina Coma<br />

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Designer is Alina Coma / @comaalina<br />

Photography by Yaroslav Rashevskyi @yaroslavrashevskyi<br />

Hairstylist is Anya Furiya / @ya_furiya<br />

Make-up by Alisa Fun / @alisafunnn<br />

Model is Jenny Gorbachenko / @zhenya_foxx<br />

Special thanks to Ukranian Cultural Community / @ucc_berlin<br />

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Livyj<br />

Bereh<br />

182<br />

“We work together on<br />

rebuilding villages and<br />

repairing buildings<br />

destroyed by the war. “


Was there a specific incident that<br />

created the urge for you to help out<br />

by volunteering?<br />

Livyj Bereh: When the full-scale<br />

invasion began it was suddenly<br />

obvious that helping and defending<br />

became everybody’s business.<br />

If you could summarize Livyj bereh’s<br />

mission in a short sentence, what<br />

would it be?<br />

Livyj Bereh: Rebuilding and defence<br />

You’re travelling around the country<br />

quite a bit. What is the situation like<br />

in the different parts of Ukraine?<br />

Livyj Bereh: We started going to<br />

the de-occupied territories when<br />

the villages were newly liberated<br />

and the cleanses from the occupiers<br />

were still ongoing. The atmosphere<br />

was heavy. We went to many<br />

villages and cities in many regions.<br />

The scope of destruction was<br />

overwhelming. A lot of people lost<br />

their loved ones and their homes.<br />

But what was important and even<br />

more impressive than the scope<br />

of the destructions we saw, was<br />

the way those people were wired<br />

for victory, those people are<br />

unbreakable.<br />

Is there anything you’d like to say<br />

to the people in the West?<br />

Livyj Bereh: This is the war in the<br />

heart of Europe. Ukraine with all its<br />

people courageously took the hit<br />

upon itself, bravely showing to the<br />

whole world what the true values<br />

are. The West must understand that<br />

Ukraine is restraining an evident<br />

threat to the whole Europe, and<br />

they should help and support us<br />

more resolute. This war must end<br />

with the victory of Ukraine. We<br />

thank all the countries and all the<br />

people who help Ukraine.<br />

You can donate to Livyj Bereh here<br />

and keep up with their work via<br />

their Instagram channel at @livyj_<br />

bereh<br />

All photos provided by Livyj Bereh!<br />

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ANA<br />

BIf you’re into electronic music, you might have<br />

heard of DJ Ana B because of her Hör set.<br />

Not only was the set amazing, it also went<br />

viral because she burned a photo of Putin at<br />

the end of it. I caught up with Ana last month<br />

when she was in Berlin.<br />

We had a long conversation about the Vogue<br />

shoot everyone was talking about at the time,<br />

reclaiming her Ukrainian identity and why<br />

music has always been political.<br />

"Have you seen<br />

Emily In Paris, and<br />

how they portrayed<br />

an Ukrainian<br />

girl in it?"<br />

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Nastia: I'm a huge advocate for<br />

being vocal and using any available<br />

channel to speak your truth and<br />

stand up for what’s right. I feel<br />

people these days are afraid of<br />

being vocal because of “cancel<br />

culture.”<br />

Everyone is scared to be judged,<br />

lose their followers or gigs,<br />

or simply even stand out with an<br />

unpopular idea – those ignorant<br />

social politics prevent people from<br />

speaking out.<br />

It's incredible how quickly the<br />

sides have shifted. What this war<br />

has shown is that some people on<br />

the left have come out to support<br />

Russia, which I didn’t think was<br />

going to happen.<br />

Nastia: It makes no sense. You<br />

cannot be left wing and not see the<br />

imperialistic attitude that Russia<br />

has had for hundreds of years,<br />

terrorizing other nations. This same<br />

kind of attitude was acknowledged<br />

and addressed everywhere in the<br />

West. But the world has never<br />

addressed it with Russia, which is<br />

shocking.<br />

From a Western point of view, I<br />

think we've all closed our eyes.<br />

Nastia: It is shocking to me that<br />

most Westerners ignore the terror<br />

and genocide of millions of people<br />

Russia has caused by colonising their<br />

neighbouring countries right in front<br />

of our eyes, and continues doing so<br />

to this day. Russia is doing exactly<br />

what France, Portugal, or Spain did<br />

hundreds of years ago.<br />

That has been addressed and stopped,<br />

yet the world chooses not to apply<br />

this same approach to Russia. Why?<br />

Everything at the moment seems very<br />

ideology and identity focused. I’d<br />

like to talk to you about Zelenska's<br />

Vogue photoshoot. There’s a massive<br />

debate at the moment whether the<br />

shoot is distasteful,<br />

or not.<br />

Nastia: Behind this photo shoot<br />

is a brilliant Ukrainian team. I<br />

personally know some of the people<br />

that worked on this shoot. I feel<br />

proud looking at these photos.<br />

It gives me the joy to see that<br />

this shoot was executed in such<br />

a meaningful way. As a Ukrainian<br />

woman, I feel seen, and I feel<br />

heard. And that’s really what the<br />

shoot was about.<br />

Photo by Stine Yoon<br />

@stine.yoon<br />

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It is triggering to see people<br />

criticising something that brings<br />

joy to us Ukrainians. Especially<br />

right now. We never see a Ukrainian<br />

woman portrayed in such a beautiful<br />

and strong way on the cover of the<br />

western media, or any media at<br />

all. Then, we see all these Western<br />

intellectuals completely switching<br />

the focus.<br />

Those are the same people that didn’t<br />

express any kind of concern when the<br />

photos from Bucha came out.<br />

When we see Russian bloggers go to<br />

occupied territories, blogging and<br />

glamorising the horrific results of<br />

the full scale invasion of Ukraine –<br />

everyone seems to be okay with that.<br />

It makes no sense to me.<br />

Can you bring yourself to look at<br />

those photos or videos anymore?<br />

Nastia: We’d love to be able not to<br />

see these photos because they’re<br />

traumatising. They're horrifying to<br />

us. But, it's hard to close your eyes<br />

and ignore them when people live this<br />

nightmare in real life. Although, I<br />

watched a video this morning, and in<br />

hindsight, I wish I hadn’t seen it.<br />

Nastia Is Talking About The<br />

Video, Which Appeared On<br />

Pro-Russia Telegram Channels<br />

On The Day Of Our Interview,<br />

29Th Of July.<br />

The Video Appears To Show<br />

A Russian Soldier Castrating A<br />

Ukrainian Prisoner While Other<br />

Soldiers Are Abusing Him. Read<br />

The Guardian’s Report About<br />

The Video Here. Please Note, The<br />

Video Is Incredibly Graphic And<br />

Distressing.<br />

Guilt because you’re not in Ukraine?<br />

Nastia: Yes. Every morning, you wake<br />

up, have your coffee, and start<br />

feeling guilty that some people might<br />

not even be able to drink water this<br />

morning. You try to stay social and<br />

go to dinner with your friends. But<br />

there’s a constant feeling of guilt.<br />

Though, I also feel it's a healthy<br />

feeling. It is called compassion, and<br />

it is important to me to feel this<br />

way until this nightmare is over, and<br />

my people are safe. It also reminds<br />

me that our brave men and women fight<br />

for us to have these normal moments.<br />

And I am deeply grateful every time<br />

I think about them. I hope that makes<br />

them stronger too.<br />

What was your personal view on the<br />

military before the invasion?<br />

Nastia: I think for many young<br />

Ukrainians, the military was just<br />

something that we would associate<br />

with Russia and its gross war cult,<br />

which many of us didn’t like and<br />

chose not to support. But then the<br />

war started. Many people joined the<br />

military to defend our country. And<br />

that's when it clicked. These are<br />

people just like me who chose to risk<br />

their lives to protect their homes<br />

and families.<br />

What do you do when a murderer comes<br />

to your home and tries to hurt you or<br />

your family? Any person would stand<br />

up and try to defend their home and<br />

protect their loved ones. I respect<br />

and support them for that.<br />

That’s true. So, you don’t currently<br />

live in Ukraine, but in the US. When<br />

and why did you decide to move there?<br />

Nastia: I moved to the US ten<br />

years ago, when things were getting<br />

more intense with Russia’s ongoing<br />

aggression.<br />

I was studying journalism because<br />

I was passionate about politics<br />

in Ukraine but after finishing<br />

university, I felt there was no<br />

future for me. When this war ends,<br />

I would love to spend more time back<br />

home with my family.<br />

Nastia: It's terrifying, specifically<br />

when your family, friends, and loved<br />

ones are there right now. This could<br />

happen to anyone, including me.<br />

Seeing those pictures and videos is<br />

the most horrifying thing I’ve ever<br />

experienced. That’s all I can say.<br />

But you can’t turn your head around<br />

and ignore what’s happening. There’s<br />

a sense of guilt. And this feeling is<br />

even worse.<br />

And what was the response ten years<br />

ago in the US when you talked about<br />

your passions and your country?<br />

Nastia: Until now, people didn't<br />

even know where Ukraine is or would<br />

confuse it with other countries. They<br />

didn't even know that we have our<br />

own language – a result of Russian<br />

propaganda and oppression.<br />

187


At some point, it wasn't<br />

intellectually stimulating for me<br />

to talk about these things with<br />

Americans because they wouldn't get<br />

it. I lost that connection for a<br />

second. And then 2014 happened. The<br />

revolution was a painful time for me.<br />

It was hard to be away and see what<br />

was going on back home. I have been<br />

trying to keep up with politics since<br />

then.<br />

But even then, I wasn't interested<br />

in talking about these things with<br />

my friends. Now I feel like I have<br />

no other choice. That makes some<br />

friendships and relationships a<br />

little uncomfortable sometimes.<br />

I think you’re most definitely not<br />

alone with this feeling of not being<br />

able to talk or think about anything<br />

else. I’m curious, how have you been<br />

treated as an Eastern European in the<br />

US?<br />

Nastia: Meh… Have you seen Emily<br />

In Paris, and how they portrayed a<br />

Ukrainian girl in it?<br />

My actual name is Nastia. That's what<br />

my parents and friends call me back<br />

home. Then I moved to New York, and<br />

for someone who, at the time, didn’t<br />

speak English well and felt insecure<br />

about engaging with people, it was<br />

easier to introduce myself as Ana.<br />

I didn't have to explain anything.<br />

My DJ name is still Ana B. But now,<br />

with everything going on, I think<br />

to myself, no, my name is Nastia.<br />

If that’s too hard for people to<br />

remember, they’re going to have to<br />

learn it.<br />

It's a sense of reclaiming your<br />

identity. I want to talk about your<br />

DJ career. You’ve posted a story<br />

where you said you’ve received a lot<br />

of criticism from people saying that<br />

music shouldn’t be political.<br />

Nastia: Anyone who knows the basics<br />

of music history should know that<br />

music has always been political and<br />

will always be political. Specifically<br />

Techno. If you open any sort of<br />

Techno history book or even just the<br />

Wikipedia page, you'll see it all<br />

started with being political. Look<br />

at what was happening in Detroit,<br />

Chicago, and even Berlin. Those<br />

are all facts. I think people just<br />

choose to ignore it, because it all<br />

comes down to having uncomfortable<br />

conversations with people in the<br />

industry.<br />

People don't want to burn bridges. I<br />

knew that by choosing to speak up, I<br />

would probably lose a few professional<br />

connections.<br />

You see how divided the music scene is<br />

right now. The more you speak out, the<br />

more you get people annoyed. And they<br />

obviously don't want to book you or work<br />

with you. It's easier to be quiet.<br />

I believe silence is violence. When<br />

someone comes to my home and hurts my<br />

friends, my family, and terrorizes my<br />

people, or anyone really, I will be<br />

vocal. The Russians that came to Bucha,<br />

Irpin, Mariupol, and other Ukrainian<br />

cities are scary people. They are<br />

violent murderers, rapists, and looters.<br />

There is official evidence of thousands<br />

of war crimes committed by Russians in<br />

Ukraine already.<br />

I get a lot of messages saying it’s not<br />

all Russians, and I know that; I’m not<br />

saying all Russians are like that. But<br />

there has to be some kind of collective<br />

responsibility for all the atrocities<br />

they’ve been doing in occupied<br />

territories. There's clear collective<br />

guilt, response and responsibility, and<br />

Russians are not doing much about it.<br />

And that is inhumane.<br />

I grew up in Ukraine, and our friends<br />

from Russia used to come to Kyiv every<br />

summer. It was a tight community of art,<br />

fashion, and music. We’d all hang out<br />

together. We all grew up together. We<br />

went to Moscow, they came to Kyiv. Not<br />

a single person has reached out to me<br />

since the war started, not a single one.<br />

You wouldn’t go to jail for that, would<br />

you?<br />

I’ve heard the same thing from<br />

quite a lot of people already, it’s<br />

unbelievable. I want to thank you<br />

so much for taking the time to speak<br />

to us, Nastia, I really enjoyed our<br />

interview.<br />

If you want to keep up with<br />

Nastia, you can follow her<br />

on Instagram at<br />

@therealanabobrovska.<br />

Berlin photos and interview<br />

by Johanna Urbancik, all<br />

other photos provided by<br />

Nastia.<br />

188


"Every morning, you wake up,<br />

have your coffee,<br />

and start feeling guilty<br />

that some people<br />

might not even be able<br />

to drink water this morning."<br />

189


Sanctity<br />

<strong>19</strong>0of life<br />

Photography by @valeriiarii - Model: @poliesha<br />

Styling: @ali.zilanova - MUA: @svitlana_kmet<br />

Clothes: @galushko_nst @galushko_brand


Nowadays, the cruelty is becoming inevitably evident for the<br />

humanity residing in the reality where violence is considered<br />

to be commonness of the daily life. The outset of the new<br />

world, the military culture, gave us impetus to reappraisal<br />

as well as formation if the righteous resistance to sexual<br />

harassment. In bygone days the femininity played essential<br />

part and ever since it has been considered as an indispensable<br />

attribute as well as a kind of amulet recalling past. The identity<br />

of the former centuries is a time-tested thing carrying equally<br />

important unique aura, raise of awareness and embeddedness<br />

of meaningfulness. The amalgamation of revived oppression<br />

tools, sexual exploitation of the bygone days, inclusiveness,<br />

naturalness, customs and a second life displays the true<br />

concept of the ‘Sanctity of life’ collection. For this sound<br />

reason the following collection is a steady appeal to the past,<br />

the merging of the natural and reconsideration of the future.<br />

The philosophy embedded in ‘Sanctity of life’ is the absence<br />

of a border line between the past and the present owning to<br />

silence, social alienation along with imminent revenge.<br />

<strong>19</strong>1


<strong>19</strong>2


<strong>19</strong>3


<strong>19</strong>4


<strong>19</strong>5


<strong>19</strong>8


<strong>19</strong>9


GENESIS COLLECTION<br />

Zhilyova<br />

From the ashes of the old world — rises a new one<br />

Genesis is a new campaign from the Ukrainian designer Valeria Zhilyova. The designer meant for the<br />

shooting to symbolize strong ties between generations and the search for one’s tribe on the way to a<br />

bright future. It turned into a prophecy shedding light on the spirit of the Ukrainian people, showing<br />

their power in times of the full-scale invasion of their territory.<br />

Shot just before the full-scale invasion of Russia into Ukraine —Genesis gives us a glimpse into a better<br />

tomorrow. A life-affirming idea put into the new campaign by Zhilyova delves into the concept of the<br />

“tribe” — finding those people with whom you can build a future, develop and grow.<br />

200


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Valeria Zhilyova says “Genesis is our loud<br />

manifesto that shows we are ready to<br />

overcome anything on our path, becoming<br />

stronger and wiser with every step.<br />

When we were working on the idea of the<br />

campaign with Natalia Ivanova, we wanted<br />

to create a vision of learning how to work<br />

and live together for a better tomorrow.<br />

In the midst of an outrageous invasion<br />

of Russia into Ukraine — this message<br />

appears to have a much more symbolic<br />

meaning”.<br />

The Genesis campaign takes us to a<br />

surreal world where a beautiful woman<br />

is shown carefully exploring unfamiliar<br />

circumstances. She comes with a weapon,<br />

but feeling no danger — lowers it. She is<br />

drawn to join the beautiful creatures as<br />

they dance with the skull that represents<br />

the burden of the past, the monster —<br />

different for all of us — that we have to<br />

defeat.<br />

The scenery changes — now everything is<br />

different, we can see the new garments,<br />

and feel the spirit of freedom. We see a<br />

portal to the new world, and the girls are<br />

inviting the viewer to join. Will we?<br />

The idea Valeria put into the campaign is<br />

simple but powerful. It’s important to find<br />

your people to overstep the “skull of a<br />

monster” — anything that’s bringing you<br />

down, and move further.<br />

Valeria Zhilyova:<br />

“Now more than ever I believe in the idea<br />

I’ve put into the collection. Our nation is<br />

faced with a horrible challenge. But I’m<br />

deeply convinced that we will win as we<br />

know what we’re fighting for.<br />

My native city is Mariupol — which has been<br />

under siege for the 4 months of the war. I<br />

had to watch it being destroyed building by<br />

building — with weapons literally turning<br />

all the places of my childhood memories<br />

into dust, and my whole family staying<br />

there — with no water, no heat, and no<br />

connection to at least send a message<br />

they’re still alive.<br />

204


It was a miracle that they managed to get out<br />

alive: under constant shelling and bombing,<br />

from the true hell on Earth. Now Mariupol<br />

is almost completely burned down and stays<br />

under occupation.<br />

But our spirit is strong, and this war showed<br />

us that our tribe is made of 40 million<br />

Ukrainians and people all around the world<br />

who support us. We must make conclusions,<br />

move forward, and grow. After all, light<br />

always defeats darkness. As sure as Ukraine<br />

will win as well.”<br />

Zhilyova is a lingerie brand founded by<br />

Valeria Zhilyova in 2014. For its products,<br />

the brand uses exclusively high-quality<br />

European materials, following a conscious<br />

approach in everything: production,<br />

working conditions, and choice of fabrics.<br />

Zhilyova stands for diversity, self-love,<br />

women's empowerment, innovation, future,<br />

and technology. In particular, the brand<br />

became the first in its industry to release an<br />

AR version of the site for the convenience of<br />

customers. The brand is fascinated by the<br />

beauty of the body and its main mission is<br />

to promote diversity by helping people love<br />

and accept themselves.<br />

Zhilyova collections are distinguished by<br />

a wide selection: from comfortable and<br />

sexy bases to slip dresses and accessories.<br />

Zhilyova is worn by Tina Kunakey,<br />

ROSALIA, Kourtney Kardashian, Grimes,<br />

and many other celebrities. influencers and<br />

editors of top-media.<br />

Follow via @zhilyova_lingerie<br />

www.zhilyova.com<br />

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DIRECTORS DUO - Valeriia Zhilyova @zhilyova<br />

& Natasha Ivanova @nataliaivanovaaaa<br />

DOP - Ruslan Mingazirov - @mingazirov_ruslan<br />

Editor - Natasha Ivanova - @nataliaivanovaaaa<br />

Gaffer - Oleg Filatov - @play_like_a_child<br />

Colorist - Olha Kriukova - @rainbowfoxcolor<br />

Production Designer - Maria Chupaylenko<br />

@maria_chupaylenko<br />

Starring:<br />

Zhenya Fox - @zhenya_foxx<br />

Tatiana Kriklenko - @tanni_no<br />

Anna Dubowick - @annadubowic<br />

Sofiia Makabula - @makabulas<br />

Luiza Bunchik - @b.luizaprincess<br />

Maryna Pylypenko - @pylypenkomaryna<br />

Beauty Department:<br />

Key Hair stylist - Anastasiia Gryniuka<br />

@anastasiiagryniuka<br />

Key MUAH - Sova Maria - @maria_sovaa<br />

MUAH - Anhelina Borodina - @anga.vanga<br />

HAIR - Maria Kozachenko - @maria_hairwork<br />

Camera department:<br />

Focuspuller - Marko Trotsenko<br />

@marko_trotsenko_<br />

1 AC - Zakrevskyi Serhii - @wake_up_men<br />

Crane operation - Sasha Roshchyn - @sashcko<br />

Mechanic - Evgene Shestuk<br />

Mechanic - Roman Corolchuk<br />

Light department:<br />

Key Grip - Nikita Stolbov<br />

Chief electrician - Moiseienko Serhii<br />

Electrician - Kazakov Ilya<br />

Electrician - Dordol Andrian<br />

Electrician - Lukhta Mykhailo<br />

Electrician - Kretov Petro<br />

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SPECIAL REPORT<br />

A child’s perspective on the war<br />

BEHIND<br />

BLUE EYES<br />

A photography project, created by children from de-occupied<br />

Ukrainian regions<br />

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"I believe this material is such a necessity right now.<br />

Physically, we collect a unique body of work - a look<br />

on the war and its aftermath through the eyes of the<br />

future. Spiritually, we get a chance to raise important<br />

inner statements: about ourselves, about childhood,<br />

about the connection between those two, about war<br />

and death, about life and<br />

future. It is a personal reflection for everyone, that<br />

happens thanks to these kids."<br />

Kyiv-based gallery Avangarden has opened a<br />

charitable photo project Behind Blue Eyes, which<br />

presents photography works created by children<br />

from de-occupied Ukrainian regions.<br />

The idea was developed by a team of volunteers<br />

taking care of liberated areas in Chernihiv region,<br />

Ukraine, that have been under occupation. Local<br />

kids became true friends for the volunteers during<br />

their numerous trips to the Lukashivka village.<br />

Despite being exposed to the horrors of war, these<br />

children still are able to radiatel light that adults<br />

need in these hard times. It led to a vision of how<br />

this healing feeling could be shared further. That<br />

is how the idea of Behind Blue Eyes emerged: the<br />

children were given a bag of disposable cameras<br />

and a week to capture whatever they were up to.<br />

Creativity is a powerful tool for achieving one's<br />

dreams and goals, which can not be taken away<br />

from kids by this awful war. Thus the cameras<br />

were returned along with brief wishlists from each<br />

kiddo photographer. The charitable aspect of the<br />

project assumes that the society pays back for their<br />

important work with the fulfilled wishlists. These lists<br />

are posted regularly at Behind Blue Eyes IG page.<br />

The donation could be made either in cash or with<br />

physical items (or, at times, even pets) from the list.<br />

The team foresees projects development in<br />

continuing this work with children in each and every<br />

affected region of Ukraine. Therefore, a coherent<br />

and complex footprint of the war in Ukraine can be<br />

created, given the angle the world has probably<br />

never experienced before.<br />

www.instagram.com/theblueyedproject<br />

heylink.me/theblueyedproject<br />

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Andriy, 12 y.o<br />

Artem, 7 y.o<br />

Bohdan, 13 y.o<br />

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Diana, 12 y.o<br />

Masha, 10 y.o<br />

Sasha, 11 y.o<br />

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Tanya, 15 y.o<br />

Valya, 10 y.o<br />

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Nastia, 13 y.o


2<strong>19</strong>


220they.


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"I want to introduce my new collection,<br />

THEY. The conceptual idea of this project<br />

is to create a QUEER ROYALTY. A world<br />

in which your race, gender, morphology or<br />

gender expression does not matter to shine<br />

and be the star.<br />

It is intended to form diverse referents of<br />

those that some of us never had. The<br />

representation that we don't have growing<br />

up. Aesthetically the inspiration is the<br />

Victorian Era and the 80s. All of this is<br />

reflected with an explosion of textures,<br />

colours and silhouettes evoking a bygone<br />

era but current at the same time."<br />

* Jean Ayala. Stylist and fashion designer<br />

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they.<br />

Art director /designer and stylist: Jean Ayala @_jeansebastian_<br />

Attendee Art Direction: Àlex Vázquez Eguaras @avazqueg<br />

Photography/Edition: Arancha Cassani @aranchacassani<br />

MUA : Ru Montilla @rucafort<br />

MUA : Júlia Porto @byjupovi<br />

Hair design : Maria Baten @aguanievess<br />

Models: Alicia Díaz Miller @alicewonderbear<br />

Ashley Natasha Rosado Matos @ashley.rosadom<br />

Victoria Banks @lavictoriabanks<br />

Miki Mint @mikimintt<br />

Noelia Pereiro Moreno @noa.floret<br />

Ona pérez cros @onacros<br />

Jayce Gorgeous Gucci @jayyysees<br />

Yandra de la Mano @opyandra<br />

Alba Bailón / Arcade @albailongo<br />

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Subscription<br />

to freedom<br />

and democracy<br />

UNITED24 is a global initiative<br />

launched by the President of Ukraine,<br />

Volodymyr Zelenskyy, to unite people<br />

all over the world in their will to<br />

support Ukraine. The initiative’s name<br />

reflects Ukraine’s 24 regions, as<br />

well as the President’s aim of fully<br />

restoring the country’s territorial<br />

integrity.<br />

Marking the Independence Day of<br />

Ukraine, the platform launched a call<br />

to find 24 000 donors of Ukraine. This<br />

is a worldwide call to find freedom<br />

supporters who will subscribe for a<br />

symbolic $24 monthly donation, which<br />

can be done with one click on the<br />

platform's website. Donors will help<br />

the Ministry of Health of Ukraine to<br />

plan purchases to support the work of<br />

Ukrainian doctors. Help can be as easy<br />

as making a subscription.<br />

UNITED24 has celebrated 4 months<br />

of existence reaching $180,000,000<br />

in donations for Ukraine (over 6, 5<br />

billion UAH) from 110 countries sent<br />

to the official accounts of the National<br />

Bank of Ukraine.<br />

Additionally, Demna Gvasalia,<br />

Imagine Dragons, Andriy Shevchenko,<br />

Elina Svitolina, Liev Schrieber became<br />

the very first ambassadors of<br />

UNITED24. Billie Eilish has recently<br />

spoken in support of UNITED24.<br />

The platform constantly comes up<br />

with new ways to engage people:<br />

a limited capsule of speakers<br />

from Bang&Olufsen, special T-shirt<br />

from Balenciaga, Imagine Dragons<br />

auctioning off their guitar — and many<br />

others.<br />

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By Dmytro Komissarenko<br />

@dmytrokomissarenko<br />

Giclée prints<br />

WELCOME<br />

TO MY HOME<br />

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Yarik Yanchuk<br />

@yanchuk_yarik<br />

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Maria Shevchenko<br />

@maria_shevchenkko<br />

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Evgeniy Yovenko<br />

@lakaniy_


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Ostrovskyi<br />

@therealostrovskyi<br />

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Dima Luch<br />

@dima7y4<br />

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242<br />

https://guniaproject.com/


https://guniaproject.com/<br />

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Artwork by Tyhran Sohoian @Tyhransart

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