Adventure Magazine

adventure
where actions speak louder than words
#ACTIVEWOMEN
#ADVENTUREWOMEN
#ADVERTUROUSWOMEN
ISSUE 233
AUG/SEP 2022
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
justine dupont
Gabi Steindl
paige hareb
vinny armstrong
& robin gooms
nouria newman
Frankie Sanders
& Emily Warne

Dune Kennings shot by Cam Hay on a FujiFilm XT-3 + 16-55mm F2.8 lens. June 2022 – North Piha, NZ.

#ACTIVEWOMEN
#ADVENTUREWOMEN
#ADVERTUROUSWOMEN
Left to right: Fanny Bullock, one of the world's first adventurous women / Elizabeth Shu in The Handmaid's Tale / Justine Dupont, one of
this generation's advenurous women.
It’s not that the adventure community saw women any differently
than men, but for many years they hardly noticed them at all.
Adventure activities, events and expeditions were often only seen
to be pursued by men. The adventure community wasn’t antiwomen
it simply wasn’t paying them any attention.
But it is now!
Over the last 30 years, we have seen the impact of women on
the adventure community; sure there were always those intrepid
women who ‘paved the way’ (some of which are editorialized in
this issue). But it is only in relatively recent times that women
have been recognized for their immersion in adventure. That
involvement is not just in the action and outdoor achievement
but it’s in the very core of the industry. Today, so many women
are involved in adventure-based business, operations, start-ups,
development and innovation. It’s no longer a man’s world but an
adventurous world on an equal footing.
However, there is a tragedy unfolding at present; as women claim
their rightful place alongside men in the adventure community,
we see the development of the far-right in the US where women
are being denied rights, or better phrased, having their rights
removed. Firstly, the focus was on the easy-targeted transgender
community, then slowly and specifically the far-right gaze fell on
women and their role. No matter what side of the abortion debate
you stand on, it’s women’s rights that are being trampled, and it’s
not just medical rights but rights of equality across the board.
In this WOKE-saturated world it seems everyone is so quick
to take offence, so quick in fact that it waters down the actual
meaning of offence for those who should really be offended.
But now, internationally the pendulum has swung from the far
WOKE left to the far right, with phrases coming out of the USA like
"Christian Taliban" and the establishment of a "Christian State"
(one extremist used the terms ‘in the same way Afghanistan is
Muslim’!).
The comparison to the novel “A Handmaid’s Tale” is a constant
analogy on social media, A Handmaid’s Tale is based in a world
where women have a biblical role of simply being ‘less’.
Adventure Magazine is not a political platform, but it is a
platform where women can feel equal to men in every way, their
achievements, their success and their struggles, are equal with
men.
This is the women’s issue #AdventureWomen which celebrates
women and their achievements. We are proud of these women
and as the decisions being made offshore cast a long and dark
shadow, we hope this brings just a little light.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this issue – you have
made us all proud.
Steve Dickinson - Editor
your Adventure starts with Us
23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

Image by WSL Image by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content
page 6
page 18
page 24
contents
6//Zoi Sadowski-Synnott
Making history
10//Gabi Steindl
Exploring Wanju Kepa Kurl Boodja
18//Vinny Armstrong & Robin Gooms
Kiwi's pushing new boundaries
24//Paige Hareb
Our Kiwi superstar
30//Nouria Newman
Claiming world first
34//Justine Dupont
Taming giants
39//Inspirational Women
#activewomen #adventurewomen
42//Frankie Sanders & Emily Warne
Leading the way
44//Darran Mountains
Northern Fiordland
50//Kawekas
Autumn equinox
54//Mackenzie Region
Someplace special
76//Adventure Travel
Samoa | Rarotonga | Tahiti | Vanuatu
plus
63. gear guides
92. active adventure
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4//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER
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zoi sadowski-synnott
making history
Images by Red Bull
In 1992 The Halberg Award judges gave their supreme award to Olympic skiing Silver
Medalist, Annelise Coberger, ahead of Gold Medal winning Olympic boardsailing
champion, Barbara Kendall. Despite the fact that Kendall was New Zealand's first
female Olympic Gold Medalist since Yvette Williams 40 years earlier, the judges
recognized the difficulty of success on the snow against the huge power players of
Europe, Canada and USA and awarded the title to Coberger.
If we thought Annelise Coberger’s win, (which was of extra significance being the first
person from the whole of the Southern Hemisphere to win a medal at a Winter Olympics
when she won Silver in the slalom at Albertville in France) would indicate a change
in fortune for our Kiwi winter contestants, we were wrong. Despite a raft of talented
athletes in the following years, New Zealand was unable to find international success on
the snow covered podiums.
It was not until the emergence of the Wells brothers, who dominated the ski scene in
the 2010’s with wins at the X- games and FIS, that there was real possibility of winning
gold at the winter Olympics. Unfortunately, they were unable to attain medals at the
Olympics. Jossi came close in the 2014 Winter Olympics, placing fourth in the halfpipe
but tragically Byron was forced to withdraw due to injury which plagued both athletes in
the following Olympics in 2018.
It took an astonishing 26 years before we saw another Kiwi win a Winter Olympic medal,
and once again it was a woman, 16 year old Zoi Sadowski-Synnott. Her Bronze Medal
at the 2018 Olympics in South Korea made Zoi New Zealand youngest ever Olympic
medalist (at 16 years 353 days) a record she held for less than a day when Nico
Pretorius (16 years 91 days old) won an Olympic medal later in the same day.
During 2020 & 2021, in the shadow of a pandemic world, Zoi outperformed all other
competitors at the preceding X-Games, which a good litmus test for what to except at
the Winter Olympics.
It should have come as no surprise, that the historic moment of winning NZ first ever
Gold Medal at a Winter Olympics was achieved by then 20-year-old Zoi Sadowski-
Synnott during the 2021 Olympics in Beijing held in 2022 (delayed due to the
pandemic).
For a country known for its exceptional skiing environment and the legendary Southern
Alps, for a people known for their adventurous spirit and incredible achievements in
the mountains, it is surprising that it took so long for New Zealand to make its mark at
the Winter Olympics. Whatever the formular, whatever the coaching and the support,
whatever the blend of talent and training, the environment is now right to create success
and it was a woman, Zoi Sadowsky-Synnott, who goes down in the history books.
6//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

Zoi Sadowski-Synnott practices before the finals in the Snowboard Big Air during the Winter
Games at Cardrona Alpine Resort, New Zealand 2019
Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content Pool

Zoi Sadowski-Synnott performs in the womans snowboard slope style during the Winter Games at Cardrona Alpine Resort,
Image by Vaughan Brookfield / Red Bull Content Pool
8//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

we ARE climbing
Sarah Hueniken
Johnston Canyon
Banff National Park
Photo: John Price
johnpricephotography.ca
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providing you with the best outdoor clothing and equipment available in the world. It is the same gear
we literally stake our lives on, because we are committed to adventure and we ARE climbing.
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Gabi Steindl
exploring WANJU KEPA KURL BOODJA
Where the water lies like a boomerang
Words by Gabi Steindl / Images by Jaimen Hudson, James Hooper
"Are you travelling all alone?", the ranger looked at me puzzled.
“Yep” I replied with a big smile.
His eyes inspected my Landcruiser. “You’re carrying off-road recovery equipment, yeah?”
"Ehm, nope," I played it cool, but his questions made me a little nervous.
"And you’re planning on sleeping alone on the beach?”
“That was the plan"
“Countless cars have already fallen victim to the beaches here. The sand is really soft in places and very, very deep.
Hopefully you’ve got an air compressor and know a thing or two about tire pressure?”
“Absolutely”, whether he believed me will remain unknown.
"Well then, good luck!"
“Thanks, mate”. My heart fully started pounding when Thomas River, the first obstacle I had to tackle to get onto the long
stretch of wild, remote beaches of Cape Arid, sloshed over the bonnet of my Landcruiser. On the other side of the river, I
stopped the engine, took a deep breath and let the tires down to 15psi. The real adventure was only just about to begin!
With a massive area of 2.6 million km2 (four times the size
of Texas) and some of Australia's most iconic landscapes,
Western Australia is the home of the iconic road trip. I firmly
believe that God created Australia’s largest state, with its
scenic and rugged beauty, epic surf spots and one of the most
pristine coastlines in the world, for us earthlings to explore by
car.
As a professional kitesurfer, I first came to Western Australia
(aka WA) in 2007 to shoot a kiteboarding road trip story for the
magazines with a New Zealand photographer, and fell head
over heels in love with the Margaret River region of the South
West. I am now a permanent resident and have been married
to an Australian big wave windsurfer for 12 years. Margaret
River is my home and Western Australia is my playground,
where the options for great waves and new adventures never
run out.
On this trip, I wanted to explore some more remote stretches
of the south coast of WA. With my jam-packed Toyota
Landcruiser — two wavekiteboards, a surfboard, a foilboard,
six kites, several bars, harnesses, wetsuits, my swag (one
of the greatest inventions of mankind!), an Engel car fridge,
gas cooker, camping chair, my camera gear, and the most
important kitchen utensils — I kissed my husband goodbye
and hit the road.
The Esperance area, about 800km from Margaret River, is
an isolated paradise on the coast of the Southern Ocean and
is famous for its breathtaking beauty. The Wudjari People of
the Noongar cultural group (also Nyungar, the Indigenous
Australians of South West Australia) are the true locals and
the traditional owners of this region. Their name for Esperance
is Kepa (Water) Kurl (Boomerang), meaning 'where the water
lies like a boomerang'. Fundamental to Noongar and Wudjari
identity and culture is a strong connection to the land with a
deep sense of responsibility to both manage and nurture their
“country’’ (Boodja or Boodjar) and everything connected to it.
The region around the small town of Esperance with only
12,000 inhabitants officially has two of Australia's whitest sand
beaches, so fine the sand actually squeaks underfoot. The
colour of the water here rivals the most beautiful spots in the
South Pacific with transparent waves that are often hard to
see. Unfortunately, Esperance is also known for giant white
sharks and in the last three years alone there have been
three fatal shark attacks and a number of near-misses. Five
days before I arrived, an 18-year-old girl was attacked and
miraculously survived the attack despite severe wounds.
I was excited to finally meet Jaimen Hudson, who grew up
here. As a well-known aerial photographer and drone pilot, I
had been in contact with him for quite some time by phone and
internet with regard to various photo shoots I had planned in
the area. Jaimen is 31 years old and a quadriplegic since he
was 17 when he was involved in a serious motorbike accident
in the sand dunes just out of town. Before the accident, surfing,
skateboarding, scuba diving etc ruled Jaimen’s life and his
earliest childhood memories are of the days on the water
with his mother and father who ran a scuba diving school
and boating business. About 8 years ago, Jaimen became
interested in drone photography and videography, but due to
his limited hand function, he feared that he would never be
able to operate a drone himself; until he bought one in 2015.
By now, Jaimen is a personality in the drone filming world and
has been featured by major international media outlets such as
The Huffington Post, BBC, The Sunday Times, BBC Earth and
many more.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//11

Besides his filming and photography business, Jaimen
bought and now runs his parents' boating family
business with his wife Jess, a Canadian from Vancouver
Island. Their three-year-old son “Captain” is a real
trooper, and a second child is on the way.
From the very first phone call, I had felt a special
connection with Jaimen. Finally meeting him in person,
and experiencing Jaimen's positive energy and charisma
was amazing. Until then he had never shot kitesurfing
and was just as excited as I was. "The wind forecast
looks good for the afternoon", I said, "let's meet at West
Beach around noon". “Perfect!”
In an extremely stylish, black VW Multivan that was
modified for Jaimen to drive himself, he dashes along
the coast every day before sunrise in search of wildlife.
Dolphins and whales are usually the main subjects of his
phenomenal footage.
During my first session, the queasy feeling in my
stomach due to the large white underwater inhabitants
subsided quickly; the mind-boggling scenery was
helping. Dempster Head, a granite headland nearly
100m high at the western end of the pristine, snow-white
West Beach, is breathtaking from land but even more
so from the water. Massive boulders shining in millions
of reddish-brown shades in the midday sun, stuck out
of the turquoise-blue water as if a giant would have cast
them like dice.
The horseshoe-shaped Twilight Bay, the unofficial
landmark of Esperance with its iconic “rock with a hole”
was our playground the following day.
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

"Massive boulders shining in millions of reddish-brown
shades in the midday sun, stuck out of the turquoise-blue
water as if a giant would have cast them like dice."
The colours of the Southern Ocean dazzled me, a
kaleidoscopic spectacle of the most vivid shades of
turquoise. At just under 8 knots, the wind conditions
were borderline at best for my 10m2. With a foil board
as my light wind weapon, I was hoping to make things
work and to inspect the weird rock with the hole through
it at Twilight Cove, which reminded me of the head of a
prehistoric Pterosaur, up close. Halfway there, the wind
suddenly died off to literally nothing. Looping my kite and
being dragged through the water like trolling live bait was
rather unsettling. Even more so as a foil looks like a big,
shimmering fishing lure and a friend of mine got bitten by
a shark while foiling in New Caledonia. "Breathe, don't
think of sharks, breathe, don't think of sharks...". I felt
relieved when I finally could feel the sand under my feet.
An elderly gentleman who was on a beach walk and
had observed my aborted foiling mission, came across
the squeaky sand and commented "Three weeks ago
a 4.5-meter Great White made Australian headlines
cruising around right here, with lots of families and kids
on the beach. A tourist filmed it with a drone. Check it out
on Youtube!”. So I did later on. Woooow, he was big…
As ubiquitous as the white sharks in Esperance are,
after a few days there, I stopped thinking about them.
Wherever the swell was up and the wind blew, I went
kiting. I did long downwinders, played in transparent
waves and was without exception, always alone on
the water. The breaks along Esperance’s beaches
usually are a fun size as the 105 offshore islands of the
Recherche Archipelago (also called “Bay of Isles” by the
locals) block the swell.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13

14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233
"Without fins, I went on a crazy ride on my waveboard on this
liquid pink mirror. A fair number of Lake Warden tattoos, scars
from various cuts on my feet from the harsh salt crust, are my
souvenirs for life, as are Jaimen’s phenomenal photos."

One day, when the wind blew fully onshore winds
and all the breaks were a blown out, chaotic mess,
I drove Esperance's famous Great Ocean Drive, a
40-kilometre circular loop that goes past stunning
empty beaches, rocky headlands, coves, sheer
cliffs, karri forests and two lakes that lie inland from
Esperance: Pink Lake (which isn't pink anymore)
and Lake Warden. In the early 21st century, the
bubblegum hued Pink Lake was a place that had to
be seen to be believed, inspiring Dreamtime stories
and considered a natural treasure by locals. The pink
hue was caused by microscopic algae producing beta
carotene. Unfortunately, the unique colour faded just
over 10 years ago due to changes in natural water
flow, reduced evaporation and salt extraction.
The lake, which used to be so pink, was a sad sight
in its now unspectacular grey-white tone. Glancing
into the distance, I suddenly spotted a pink shimmer. I
blinked several times and rubbed my eyes. Whatever
I saw looked totally fake. Eventually, I realised that
neighbouring Lake Warden (also a salt lake) was
actually glowing pink. The ladies at the tourist office
had told me that this can happen once or twice a year,
but only if many different independent factors come
together. Immediately, I rang up Jaimen “Mate, Lake
Warden is pink!! I want to kite it, how can I get there?”
“Whaaat, no way!! I'm coming!”. The Lake Warden
area is a nature reserve and access is difficult. It was
already late in the afternoon and there wasn't much
time left. I drove closer to Lake Warden and fought
my way by foot through the thick bushes to the shore
of the salt lake. Around the lake was a thick, dry salt
crust that was over a hundred metres wide. Before
even thinking of pumping up my kite, I had to check
the water depth and the ground below the surface. As
if on snow I trudged to the shore of the lake and then
waded cautiously in. The water was only about 10cm
deep, the bottom a rock-hard, very sharp crust of salt.
The wind was super gusty.
The sky and the clouds reflected in the pink water.
As much as I wanted to glide into this surreal setting
with my kite, I knew I would rip out the fin boxes of my
waveboard. After a moment's thought, I was on the
way back to my car. Without fins, I went on a crazy
ride on my waveboard on this liquid pink mirror. A fair
number of Lake Warden tattoos — scars from various
cuts on my feet from the harsh salt crust — are my
souvenirs for life, as are Jaimen’s phenomenal photos.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//15

"The absolute highlight of my road trip was without a doubt Cape Arid
National Park. “Remote” gets a new meaning in this wildly beautiful,
biodiverse area that spans over 280,000ha."
Another afternoon, I visited the local surfboard shaper and “Fish
Skin Artist” Pat McCarthy aka P-Mac. Under the label “FOFS
- Fish on Fish Skins” his art is hanging up on the walls of his
board shaping shed. It’s a beautiful, unique and sustainable
mixed media art form that the avid fisherman invented himself
after brooding over the question of what he could actually do
with the skins of fish that usually go straight into the bin or are
fed to crows. Well, P-Mac found the solution: He first dries the
skins of typical Western Australian fish, such as the Breaksea
Cod, Nannygai, Mangrove Jack, and Barramundi, then fixes
them onto special pieces of recycled wood (such as pieces from
the old tanker jetty in Esperance), before putting several layers
of clear surfboard resin on top and finally painting on the head
and fins of the fish. I couldn’t resist ordering a custom Dhu fish
to bring home to my hubby.
After kiting pretty much every break around Esperance, it was
time to venture into more remote realms. First up was the
spectacular Cape Le Grand National Park. Founded in 1966,
the 32,000-hectare national park is home to “Lucky Bay”, which
has been scientifically declared twice as having the whitest sand
in Australia. Matthew Flinders – the man who named Australia
— gave Lucky Bay its name in 1802 when he took shelter here
after being hit by a storm while sailing a perilous route through
the archipelago in the HMS Investigator.
I got “lucky” in Lucky Bay as well. The wind was blowing, a little
swell was rolling in and I had it all to myself.
One morning in the Cape Le Grand National Park, I hiked up
the iconic Frenchman Peak, an impressive granite dome rising
242m above sea level. The Aboriginal name for the peak, which
resembles the hats worn by French troops in the 19th century, is
Mandooboornup and it is an important site in the local culture.
The absolute highlight of my road trip was without a doubt Cape
Arid National Park. “Remote” gets a new meaning in this wildly
beautiful, biodiverse area that spans over 280,000ha. The
nearly untouched wilderness here is an important conservation
area for 1100 plant species and more than 160 bird species,
some of which are threatened or endangered. Migrating whales
pass by headlands in late winter and spring. Most of the park
is only accessible by four-wheel drive. Everything has to be
brought in: water, food, a tent or swag and camping under the
huge starry sky is the only option.
After the Thomas River crossing, you can head east along the
beach towards Cape Arid for 29 kilometres. The exhilarating
feeling of pure freedom took up every single cell in my body,
hitting the first stretch of snow-white beach, which is only safe to
drive on low tide.
Without any idea where I was going to roll out my swag or
what dangers and adventures were lying ahead of me in this
completely isolated corner of the world, I set off. Where phone
coverage doesn’t exist and lonesome fishermen casting lines
from the beach were the exception, where a small judgement
error could turn into a full-blown nightmare in a matter of
minutes, I felt at home.
On a narrow section of the beach with super soft sand, my car
started to sink and was stuck. With the tide rising, time was
running out. I dropped the tyre pressure to 12psi and luckily got
out before my Landcruiser fell victim to the Southern Ocean.
Rocky headlands had to be traversed to get from one beach to
the next. Without any tracks visible on the rocks, I needed to
keep my eyes glued to the rocks a few metres just ahead. Due
to the orientation and the geography of the 29km of coastline
up to Cape Arid, you can find a beach with the wind from any
angle, from fully offshore to fully onshore. With not a soul to
be seen, plus, the thought of “Salisbury Island” and the great
white shark nursery just off the coast here, where Discovery
Channel’s “Laird of the Great White” was filmed, in the back of
my head, it took quite a bit of convincing myself, to pump up a
kite and go for a session.
There is no better feeling than reviewing the day at nighttime, all
alone on an endlessly long, snow-white sandy beach, under the
Milky Way, and crawling into my swag, utterly stoked with small
red sunburnt eyes.
Getting up with the sunrise, feeling the fine, squeaky sand under
my toes on my way to a morning dip in the most turquoise blue
water, sipping a coffee from the camping stove and waiting for
the wind to get stronger to go kiting, that was pure joie de vivre.
But all dreams must come to an end. Eventually, I had to leave
Cape Arid. I couldn’t hit the road back home to Margaret River
without spending a few more days with Jaimen and his beautiful
family. In the short time I’ve known them, they have become
very dear to my heart. Some more epic kiting sessions with
Jaimen’s drone above me, a legendary boat trip out into the
breathtaking seascape of the Recherche Archipelago, and a
visit to Esperance’s Lucky Bay Brewery marked the end of an
unforgettable time.
Hugging Jaimen, Jess and my little buddy Captain goodbye
wasn’t easy. I programmed a different route into Google Maps
for the way home. One more highlight was still on the menu:
Wave Rock, also known as Katter Kich by the Noongar people.
The 15m high and 110m long natural granite rock formation
that is shaped like a tall breaking ocean wave was created by
the erosive action of wind and water over millions of years. The
red, brown, yellow and grey vertical stains on the rock, caused
by rain washing chemical deposits (iron oxide and carbonates)
down the surface, looked like hand-painted and add to its wavelike
appearance.
For the last sunset of this trip, I sat high up on the crest of
the rocky wave and looked out over the surrounding desert
wilderness reminiscing all the wild moments, crazy experiences
and legendary kite sessions. But most of all, my heart and
thoughts were with Jaimen, who had touched me deeply with
his incredibly positive attitude, the love of life he exudes, his
humour, infectious energy and his incredible family. This road
trip has not only made me fall in love with my adopted home,
Western Australia, all over again. I made new friends for life and
that is the most beautiful outcome that one could wish for.
16//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//17

Vinny Armstrong does a whip off a step-up jump at Red Bull Formation in Virgin, Utah, USA
Image by Re Wikstrom / Red Bull Content Pool
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

Vinny Armstrong & Robin Gooms
kiwi women pushing new boundaries
red bull formation, utah
There are few sports that are more dominated by the highlight reel of failure than extreme
mountain biking. Yet there are a group of Kiwi women who are not just amongst the best but
leading the way. The penultimate organization that sets the benchmark of extreme Mountain
biking focus on two kiwi women’s who show as clearly as it is possible the Kiwis can fly!
Twelve of the best women's mountain bike freeriders have been pushing new boundaries in
Southwest Utah as the third Red Bull Formation event saw "spectacular" progression as the
likes of Hannah Bergemann and Camila Nogueira helped elevate the sport further and New
Zealand's Robin Goomes threw the first-ever backflip at the event.
After the first two events advanced the sport to exciting new levels in the women's arena, the
third event saw 12 of the planet's best female riders chosen by judges to carve out thrilling
new lines in Utah where they dug out brave lines down the dusty course before freeriding
down the mountain.
There were three dig days, one rest day - where they found community in each other and
industry mentors - and three ride days, where the mountain was host to the gnarliest ever
women's MTB freeriding.
Founding organiser Katie Holden revealed: "The progression witnessed was spectacular and
truly marks a turning point for women's freeride mountain biking. We have seen a tremendous
amount of confidence from the riders. From tackling steep drops to choosing lines that played
to their styles and incorporating tricks, we hit a major milestone."
Following the final runs, athletes voted on the rider who ignited the sessions and "brought
the spice" to the progression session with Argentine Nogueira receiving a trophy to mark the
accolade.
She enthused: "Winning this award is the perfect end to an epic event. My goal was to
challenge myself with a daring line, one that would challenge my courage due to its exposure
and where I would need to stay calm under pressure. I truly believe everyone riding today
deserved this honour as they are my friends who continue to push and inspire me."
Kiwi Goomes' historic backflip line started at the top Scissor Drop then ran through looker's
right to end in the Snake Pit, the lower portion of the course that has a series of jumps and
features.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//19

"Blind, technical and exposed is how I would describe
this. I couldn’t see the landing until I was already in
the air, the landing being fairly narrow, right next to
a cliff, safe to say I had to be very precise".
Image of Vinny Armstrong by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Pool
Quick fire with Vinny Armstrong:
Describe yourself: Describing myself is probably one of the hardest
things to do, but I see myself as someone who always likes to have fun
and make everyone around me laugh. I think it’s good to not take life so
seriously all the time and enjoy the little things.
In such a high impact sport been dominated by men for so long how
do you see the roll or influence women will have on the sport? I think
the impact women have on the sport is awesome as it gets more people
involved and riding bikes. It goes to show what’s possible and that women
can achieve the same thing guys can do.
How would you describe the sport to someone who doesn’t know it
or never seen it? Riding bikes is not just the sport or competing. Its all
about hanging out with your mates and having a good time except you’re
on a bike and riding huge jumps hyping each other up to send it.
watch
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21

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"Robin Goomes' historic backflip line started at the top
Scissor Drop"
Image by Robin O'Neill / Red Bull Content Pool
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23

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Paige in action at the Nias Pro June 2022

paige hareb
our kiwi superstar
privileged to be part of the journey
Words by Steve Dickinson | Images by WSL
Intimacy in sport is rare. Sports people hold everyone at arms-length for
a number of reasons; often they just want to be judged by their results
alone. However, one Kiwi sports star that we have watched grow up and
have been privileged to be part of their journey is Paige Hareb. The stars
simply aligned; we were there when she got her first big break at Piha,
and I clearly remember the day she walked out of the water at Log Cabins
in Hawaii, and it was confirmed she was on the World Tour. We have
been there through the wins and the losses, the highs and the lows, the
elation and the disappointments. In a sport dominated by men – Paige,
and women like her, have been on the cutting edge of the push for
equality for women which has created the platform for today’s successes.
I first met Paige Hareb when she was about 12, long
white ponytail, little skinny arms and already on her
way to being a Kiwi surfing superstar. As Paige’s
career started it coincided with Pacific Media (us,
Adventure) launching Curl, a female surf magazine. In
hindsight, we did see the birth and growth of women’s
surfing as a credible sport, but when we started it
was clear that there was no equality in the sport for
women. I clearly recall at Piha that the women’s bikini
contest winner got more money than the winner of
the female surf competition, prize money given by
the same sponsor! Local and international surfing
associations would openly send the women out to
compete when the surf was at its worst. When women
paddled out, I would often be the only cameraman still
standing on the beach shooting.
As we became friends with Paige and her family and
watched first-hand as she dealt with and struggled
with all the issues of sponsorship, costs and sexism
as a female surfer, those inequalities became very
apparent. It seems most sports; soccer, ice hockey,
and tennis all struggled with this same issues; quality
of competition, recognition and equity in prize money
and coverage.
If you roll back annuls of time you have plenty of
examples that women deserve equality; the likes
of Billy Jean King (female) beating Bobby Riggs
(male) in 1973 (which was in fact the most attended
tennis match in US history with over 30,000 people),
Kathrine Switzer No. 261, who tried to join in the
all-male Boston Marathon course in 1967, Venus
Williams pushing Wimbledon for equality which they
eventually got. And in surfing the list is long; Keala
Kennelly, Lane Benchley, Steph Gilmore all had their
part to play in gaining that equality.
The pay equality in surfing reached boiling point
when this photo was published after the Ballito Pro
Junior Series event in South Africa in June 2018 on
Facebook. Here it shows Indonesia's Rio Waida with
a cheque for 8000 rand and home surfer Zoe Steyn
holding a cheque for half that amount!
The subsequent furore on social media intensified the
pressure on the surfing authorities and WSL made
their announcement two months later of equity across
the board.
Steph Gilmore talking to InStyle magazine said: "We
had just announced equal prize pay. And I realised,
world titles are awesome, but what this stood for
meant more. That was badass.”
But equality is not just about sex, it’s about race and
age and social standing. Surfing seems to be at the
forefront of those battles and winning. We have had
surfers on the world tour who grew up in poverty
learning to surf on a piece of wood. We have the likes
of Kelly Slater who at 50 is still winning major events
against competitors that are a quarter his age. And as
pay parity and equal opportunity have blossomed for
women in surfing so has their competitive edge and
quality of competition.
Our own Paige Hareb is now 32 in a sport that is
marketed at youth, Paige is still winning at a top level
and looks to others like Kelly Slater as an example of,
"if you want it bad enough you can just keep going".
We caught up with Paige between sets and
destinations to ask her about her latest win and life
on tour...
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25

OK so how many years has it been now that
you have been on Tour? I have been on the World
Chamionship Tour for 8 years but I have been a pro
surfer and travelling the world now for the last 14
years (minus close to two years at home in NZ due
to covid).
What has been the highlight? Far out, so many
good things over the years it’s hard to choose one.
I think the main ones that will always be in my heart
will be winning the Margaret River Pro in 2008 at
the age of 17 to qualify for my very first year on the
Championship tour. Then my very first event on the
WCT at Snapper Rocks nearly beating Stephanie
Gilmore at her home break and finishing 3rd. Last
but not least, being part of the winning World Surf
Team in the Founders Cup at Kelly Slater’s Surf
Ranch. That wave and place is so surreal!
What has been the worst? Losing and falling off
tour always sucks and not knowing what’s next,
whether to keep going or not. In the early days,
always competing in bad surf conditions because
whenever it got bad they would unfairly “just put the
girls out”.
What are the major changes you have seen? The
equal prize money would be the biggest movement
by far and makes me so proud to be a female pro
surfer. It’s also more fair now with whatever the
conditions at a competition, the contest director tries
to make it as fair as possible. Female surfing has
improved leaps and bounds since I first started, now
there’s 12 yr old girls that can do big air reverses,
the future is looking super bright for surfing and even
more so in my opinion for female surfing.
What are the major challenges you have faced?
It was the bad prize money for women and having
to rely on major sponsors which I went without for
a couple of years, so that was hard to try and find
enough money to keep going. I think the biggest
challenge for me personally, was the decision
whether to keep going or stop, both times I got
knocked off the top tour (World Championship Tour)
and the unknown of what I would do. Life after
surfing was always scary.
As women do you feel valued by the WSL and the
way it operates? Yes, very much so, now more than
ever, mainly for the equal prize money, equal amount
of events and at the same locations as the men. The
next step in my eyes would be to have the same
amount of women as men on tour.
Do you think people see you differently now than
they did when you were younger? Hmm that’s a
good question! I have no idea how people viewed
me back then until now, no one has told me and I
don’t really care what people think haha but as long
as I have been and can be some kind of positive
influence on someone then I’ll be happy with that. I
think for close to 15years I have gone through many
life stages from being a little carefree teenager,
finding myself through my 20's and I would say more
carefree again in my 30's.
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Nias turned on excellent conditions, allowing Paige to show she's still got what it takes to win.

Paige in winning form at the Nias Pro, 2022

Is Kelly Slater an anomaly or is there longevity in
the sport of surfing? I still can’t believe it and don’t
feel like I’m in my 30's yet. It had been 4 years since I
had won an international comp, so that felt pretty good,
but felt extra good to see that I can still do it in my 30s! I
have always thought that surfing is a sport of longevity,
there’s not many other sports where people actively and
actually want to do it every single day, sometimes right
up into their 80s or 90s! It’s definitely one of the only
sports where it’s not just a sport, it’s a great lifestyle too.
Any comments on how women’s surfing is now
viewed (are there a little less bikini shots and a few
more of the girls charging?) Yeah it’s nice to see a
lot of the girls wearing what they want and not feeling
the pressure from sponsors to wear less than what they
want. I remember one year when Alana Blanchard was
on tour, WSL brought in a rule that all photographers
and filters weren’t allowed to shoot the girls when they
were performing a bottom turn (because you might be
able to see what they had for breakfast). It’s so good to
see role models like Steph and Carissa choosing to surf
in little shorts compared to g-strings, and I can see that
influencing the younger girls in a good way.
watch
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29

Nouria Newman first decent of Pucuno Falls - Image by Carl Zoch / Red Bull Content Pool
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nouria newman
claiming world first
descent of Pucuno falls in Ecuador
Frenchwoman Nouria Newman is a dominant force in whitewater kayaking. Her
astonishing new film, Wild Waters, (free to watch) follows her adventure as a kayaking
nomad, where she claims the first descent of Pucuno falls in Ecuador and becomes the
first woman to bag a first descent of 100ft+ (30.48m) waterfall drop into the bargain.
After years at the forefront of her sport, claiming first descents around the world, and
winning awards and recognition for her intrepid expeditions, it was in making a first
descent of the Río Pucuno in Ecuador that Newman broke this latest boundary. In
February of 2021, she successfuly dropped what are now known as Don Wilo’s Falls.
In doing so, she became the first female kayaker to make a first descent of a falls over
100ft, eclipsing the 82ft (25m) recorded by Christie Glissmeyer at Metlako Falls in 2009
and winning herself a fifth consecutive Rider of the Year title at the Whitewater Awards.
Now viewers can see exactly how she faced up to the challenge in the new
documentary, Wild Waters. The film offers a dive into the adventurous existence of the
freestyle kayaking legend. Film-maker David Arnaud was able to immerse himself in
her daily life for two years to retrace her journey from childhood to this incredible new
record.
After a personal tragedy, Newman decided to leave for a globe-trotting adventure that
she hoped would enable her to reconnect, not just with others with others, but also with
herself. She explained: “It's not all about sports. On a social or mental level, it goes
far beyond. We touch on universal subjects. That's the richness of this film and sport
generally.”
The film reveals the non-conformist personality behind the elite athlete who, at just
30 years old, already has a huge list of achievements, including: three-time extreme
kayaking world champion and five-time rider of the year.
Watch Wild Waters in full on Red Bull TV.
watch
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31

Nouria Newman at the point of No Return! - Image by Carl Zoch / Red Bull Content Pool
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Justine Dupont at Jaws in Hawaii - Image by Fred Pompermayer / Red Bull Content Pool

justine dupont
taming giants
Words and Images by Red Bull
The great surf brand Rip Curl used to have a catch phrase for promotion saying, “only a surfer
knows the feeling”, which is true. If you don’t surf or haven’t, you can look and go ‘wow’ but if
you are a surfer and you look at these waves that Justine DuPont is riding it actually makes you
uncomfortable. These are massive, death walls of water. Like climbing Everest there seems no
fun in it, just the challenge and the constant threat of death. Yet Justine, who started life on the
world championship stage, has made this her surfing pathway. There are a few other women,
Maya Gabeira, Keala Kennelly to mention a few who have shone of the world stage of big wave
surfing which is dominated by men. But giant waves do not differentiate between men and
women it is the great leveler, the waves serve up the same natural equality for all which makes
Justine DuPont’s success even more impressive.
Surfer Justine Dupont is one of the world's best
female big wave surfers. Her 2020/21 season was
the most dominant performance big wave riding
has ever seen. Her new documentary 'à la folie',
which translates to "with a lot of passion", explores
the highs and lows, the life-changing wipeouts and
insane barrels, throughout her ground-breaking
2020/21 season. She reveals what drove her careerdefining
season and what it takes to level up your
passion.
Dupont's obsession with big waves has been
something developed over years of exploring the
ocean. She first started surfing aged 11 in Lacanau
- down the coast from her birthplace of French city
Bordeaux - when she stole her father's shortboard to
sneak off to the beach.
From there she began competing and a runner-up
finish in the World Junior Championships in 2011
announced her arrival on the shortboard scene
before qualifying for the 2012 WSL Championship
Tour where she sadly picked up a training injury the
week before her first CT contest.
Instead of letting the setback that cost her a coveted
spot on the World Tour get her down, she went on
to earn European Longboard titles and become the
2019 ISA Stand Up Paddle World Champion.
When she first tasted the adrenaline of tow surfing
at Belharra, though, she finally found her true water
sports calling and moved to Portugal to tackle the
infamous Nazaré big wave whenever it broke.
Two Nazaré Tow Challenge victories later, the
solid natural footer's talents have seen her tackle
Mavericks in California and Jaws in Maui - where she
successfully navigated the best female tube ride of
all time - as well as pick up numerous XXL Awards
across several categories.
Now 'à la folie' documents a fascinating year in the
life of a woman at the top of her powers, travelling
the world, riding giants and doing it while keeping her
love for surfing at the top of the priority pile.
The 30-year-old, whose boyfriend Fredo David is
also her tow partner, revealed: "À la folie means 'with
a lot of passion'. It does for me anyway, because
otherwise, it means 'madness', and that's not what
I see my surfing as. Last year was my best season
yet, so it was a great feeling to have that all captured,
to show off how I was feeling, how I do everything
with my team, and all of the work beyond just the
surfing. I'm never looking for a win. I surf for myself. I
only care about the waves."
Water sports star Kai Lenny, 29, declared: "The
first time I met Justine was over at Nazaré. Pretty
immediately I noticed her comfort level was really,
really high, in one of the most treacherous oceans
that I have ever experienced. Justine just struck me
as someone highly dedicated to the game. She's a
total badass and the kindest person possible."
"It's nice to be recognised as one of the best big
wave surfers in the world, for all sorts of reasons,"
says Justine. "I've dedicated myself to Nazaré, to big
waves, and it makes me feel like I'm doing the right
thing. Being recognised means that I can follow my
dreams and follow the storms and the waves I want
to surf."
Watch 'à la folie' documentary on Red Bull TV HERE.
https://www.redbull.com/int-en/films/a-la-folie
watch
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35

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Justine Dupont at Nazare - Image Rafael G. Riancho / Red Bull Content Pool
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//37

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#inspirationalwomen
#activewomen #adventurewomen #adventurouswomen
There are so many inspiring women out there leaving their mark on the world, here's a snippet of some of
those women who have lead the way in adventuring around the world...
Fanny Workman (1859 – 1925)
Fanny was one of the
first women adventurers;
climbing, exploring and
cycling her way around the
world (always wearing a
skirt!). She was one of the
first women to climb in the
Himalayas and she wrote
books about her experiences.
She was ahead of her time,
not only in the outdoors but in
her campaign for equality, in
a time when women were not
allowed to vote.
Sylvia Earle (born 1935)
Sylvia has many strings to her
bow, she is a marine biologies,
oceanographer, explorer, author and
lecturer. In 1970 she was selected
to lead the first all-female team
of aquanauts and in 1979 set the
women’s depth record of 381m,
which ahe still holds to this day.
Her work in underwater research
is vast and she was named Time
Magazine’s Hero for the planet in
1998 for her work protecting the
ocean and it’s wildlife.
"humans are the only species with the ability to dive deep in the sea, fly high in the sky, send instant
messages around the globe, reflect on the past, assess the present and imagine the future." (sylvia earle)
Junko Tabei (1939 – 2016)
Junko was a
mountaineer, author
and teacher and the
first women to climb
Mount Everest. She
reached the summit
on May 16, 1975 and
continued climbing
up until her death in
2016. She was 77.
Lynn Hill (born 1961)
A legendary rock climber, Lynn
became the first person to freeclimb
“The Nose”, a route on
El Capitan in Yosemite Valley
in 1993. The following year
she became the first person
to free-climb the same route
in less than 24 hours. To put
this in perspective, the second
free ascent of The Nose was
attempted in 1998 and took
Scott Burke 261 days to reach
the top! It was not until 2005
that her record was broken.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//39

Steph Davis (born 1973)
A rock climber, BASE
jumper and wingsuit
flyer, she has a bunch of
credits to her name in the
sport of climbing. In 1998
Patagonia hired Steph as
their first female “climbing
ambassador” and in 2004
became the first woman
to free climb Salathé
Wall on El Capitan.
Despite losing both
her ex husband, Dean
Potter and husband,
Mario Richard in wingsuit
accidents, Steph still
jumps 300 times a year.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 1973)
Gerlinde became the
first woman in the world
to climb all 14 eightthousander’s
without
oxygen. In 2012 she
was awarded “Explorer
of the Year” by National
Geographic.
anna frost (born 1981)
Kiwi long-distance runner,
Anna Frost believes
“women’s sustainable
pain barrier, and urge to
succeed”, make them
ideal long distance
runners and Anna has
made her career doing
just that. She won a
range of 50km races
winning the overall title in
2010. In 2014 she won
the first ever 100 mile
race she entered, the
Bear 100 Mile Endurance
Run in Utah.
Wasfia Nazreen (born 1982)
Wasfia is a mountaineer,
activist, environmentalist
and social worker. She is
the first Bangledeshi and
first Bengali to complete
the Seven Summits and
was recognized by the
National Geographic as
one of their Adventurers
of the Year 2014/2015 in
honour of her activism
and commitment to
empowering women in
her work in the field of
adventure.
“All my life I was told about all the things I could not do rather than the things I could do. Often
times I feel that I am living my life not just to fulfill my own dreams, but also to make up for my
mother and aunts who couldn’t live their life to the fullest.” (Wasfia Nazreen)
Pasang Sherpa Akita (born 1984)
Pasang became
the first woman in
Nepal to become a
mountaineering instructor
and was the first Nepali
woman to reach the
summit of K2, despite
being told as a child that
it was “not a woman’s
job”. As well as her own
climbing achievements,
Pasang was also involved
in avalanche rescue
missions at Everest Base
camp during 2014 and
2015.
Sarah McNair-Landry (born 1987)
Heralded as one
of the world’s most
accomplished female
polar explorers, at age
18 Sarah was part of
an expedition that skied
unsupported to the South
Pole. The following year
she led a dog sled team
to the North Pole and by
the time she was 19 she
was the youngest person
to have reached both
poles. Amongst her many
adventures she has also
traversed the Greenland
Ice Cap five times.
40//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

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Frankie Sanders & Emily Warne
leading the way to sustainability
Local Dehy, a small food manufacturing company based in Lake
Hawea, is taking on the big players in the industry by producing
dehydrated meals for outdoor adventurers in home compostable
packaging.
The company’s founders, Frankie Sanders and Emily Warne,
started making dehydrated meals out of necessity. Keen
climbers, mountain bikers and trampers, the pair began cooking
and dehydrating their own meals when they
found there was an almost total lack of tasty,
varied options available for non-meat eaters
like themselves.
“We wanted meals we could look forward to
after a long day in the hills,” says Frankie.
The pair started experimenting with curries,
chilli beans and a non-meat Bolognese.
After giving a few of these meals away to
friends and family, they were soon being
asked to provide more and more as word got
around that, at last, tasty vegetarian fare was
available for adventurers wanting lightweight
meals for their missions.
Despite Emily working full time at the Wānaka
climbing gym and Frankie recovering from
aggressive stage 3 breast cancer, they
launched Local Dehy in 2017.
With the purchase of a small commercial food
trailer (now parked in the driveway of their
Hawea home), Frankie and Emily set to work
cooking small batches of their signature kumara chickpea curry,
spaghetti Bolognese and Mexican chilli beans, initially making
20 meals at a time and delivering them to a Wanaka retail outlet.
Emily says that they were so excited to see their product in the
store window that she nearly cried.
Website orders soon started arriving from outdoor enthusiasts
around the country looking for vegan and vegetarian meals. The
pair increased capacity, expanded their dinner options to include
Cajun jambalaya, Thai green curry and leek and lentil stew, and
launched a range of vegan porridges and a hummus selection.
Initially these meals were sold in traditional foil packaging, but
Frankie admits that she never felt comfortable with the idea of
foil bags ending up in landfills. After two years of searching for
an alternative, they found Econic, a Hamilton-based company
specialising in home compostable packaging.
“It’s so awesome to finally be able to offer a sustainable
alternative for outdoor adventurers,” says Frankie. “Many of
our customers write to tell us they are so happy to have found
a company selling delicious vegan food that has waste-free
packaging. We are stoked.”
At the start of 2022, Local Dehy made the decision to
discontinue offering their meals in single-use foil bags and use
only home-compostable packaging. At the
same time the company made a big push
towards sustainability by auditing their
entire process chain, from the provenance
of ingredients to packaging and shipping.
Adopting the principles of a circular
economy, Frankie and Emily committed to
reduce, reuse, remanufacture and recycle
as much as possible. They offer their
customers reusable container options,
send grain sacks to be upcycled into fence
posts, wash and send all soft plastics
for commercial recycling and recycle
cardboard and tins. “We try to create as
little waste and pollution as possible,” says
Frankie. “We use environmentally friendly
cleaning products to protect our wai, and
even use cellulose-based packaging tape
that is compostable.”
During daytime hours their home’s solar
panels power the food trailer and office,
and they use their electric car to take meal orders into Wānaka
for courier pick up.
As part of the push to reduce emissions from food transport and
to support local farmers, Local Dehy sources as much produce
as they can from New Zealand. Frankie says this all goes hand
in hand with their social and environmental sustainability ethic,
and as a company to uphold kaitiakitanga.
“Caring for our environment means taking responsibility for all
processes in our manufacturing, including what happens to our
product once it leaves us,” says Frankie. “It feels really good to
know we are trying our best to protect Papatūānuku, while also
enabling others to do so.”
For more information about Local Dehy and to order their meals,
visit www.localdehy.co.nz
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Darran mountains
northern fiordland
Words and photos by Derek Cheng
A guttural yelp escaped my lips, the kind that betrays the unexpected and
the terrifying. My foot had slipped off the rock-face, and suddenly I was
falling. Having placed no protective gear so far, the only possible outcome
was a ground-fall.
I slammed into the hard edge of a natural water trench at the base of
a cliff in the remote, wild, intimidating Darran Mountains of northern
Fiordland. I had only been a few metres off the ground, but the pain was
immediate. It took me several moments to untangle from the crumpled
heap I’d collapsed into.
It was around then that I realised that I’d left my first aid kit in my
backpack at our bivvy site at the top of the valley. We were a long way
from there. We had abseiled into the valley, and then danger-walked—
including lowering ourselves from handfuls of snowgrass—down
challenging terrain to arrive at the base of this virgin 300m-high wall of
rock. In other words, it had been quite involved to get to where we were,
and we’d never been there before, meaning we had no idea about the
best way back up.
The plan had been to climb the wall, including a 150m chimney between
the wall and a gargantuan mega-block sitting in front of it, followed by a
150m headwall, before heading back to the bivvy that evening. My fall
forced a change of plans.
It was just after 1pm, and my immediate response was to insist that my
climbing partners, Jimmy and Ben, attempt the chimney, given we were
already here. How long could it take, anyway? It looked straight-forward,
and my pain levels weren't astronomical.
As with many first ascents, it predictably took much longer than
anticipated. They returned in the evening light, just after 7pm, having
chimneyed for hours on an all-time adventure. I was still too sore to climb,
but I also happened to be on a lovely ledge of tussock, which was near a
natural trench of running water. In staying the night, I’d be a bit cold and
uncomfortable, but my life wouldn’t be in any danger. Jimmy would later
name this place Camp Derek, given how it came to be.
Jimmy Finlayson heading
up an unclimbed crack
line in the Darrans, in
northern Fiordland.

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//45

Derek Cheng at the top of Point 2135, surrounded by the wild and remote Central Darrans.
Jimmy left me his down jacket and I settled in for the night,
watching their head-torches as they moved up a wall they hoped
would be the quickest way out. Again, and not unpredictably,
they got much more than they bargained for. It took four pitches
of sparsely-protected climbing, meaning any falls would be long
and potentially dangerous, before they topped out—thankfully
fall-free.
It was 3am when they reached the top of the valley. The following
morning, Jimmy decided to take all of our gear from the bivvy
spot to Camp Derek in case, due to my injuries, it was best to
head back to civilisation from there. It was about 24 hours after
my fall when they managed to return with my first aid kit, and
some food. By then, my morning shivers had dissipated; Camp
Derek was basking in afternoon sunshine.
Tramadol and ibuprofen brought relief. It wasn’t until several
weeks later that I realised I’d probably broken my tailbone. My
self-diagnosis was based on the acute pain I felt when sitting or
lying in certain positions. And there was one particularly telling
symptom: for weeks, it was really painful to shit.
—
I’d met Jimmy and Ben the previous summer in Homer Hut,
in Fiordland, and quickly learned that Jimmy was basically Mr
Darrans; he always knew exactly where we were, which peaks
we were looking at, and the best way to proceed from wherever
we happened to be. Ben was also an ideal Darrans companion
for his easy-going nature, rope expertise, and his penchant for
calorie-rich butter, and his willingness to carry it to remote places.
Having spied some neck-craning, virgin rock a few weeks earlier
on his way out from Tutoko Valley, Jimmy had enlisted us for a
first-ascent mission. I’d done some first ascents before but never
in the steep, glacier-carved rock walls of the Darrans, where the
scenery and the sense of adventure are the finest in the country.
We had trudged in with several days of food and a week-long
weather window, so I saw no point in heading down because
of my tailbone woes. At worst, I could sit and relax on tramadol
vibes at Camp Derek while Jimmy and Ben explored the cliffs.
By the following morning, however, I felt sufficiently drugged up
to put my butt to the test. The upper face of the detached megablock
appeared to be blessed with twin cracks, while the lower
face offered a few potential paths to access them. With more
than a touch of nerves and an abundance of tramadol, I chose
the line of least resistance.
I went into a slight panic when, about eight metres up, my
attempt to widen my stance in the middle of a stem corner was
met with a sharp butt-pain. I had to improvise, climbing the face
before traversing onto slabbier terrain.
When we reached the upper face, I started up the left crack
because the right one, uninvitingly, was full of loose blocks of
rock. But higher up, I became increasingly tangled in mental
knots and physical shakes, and I eventually slumped onto
the rope. I offered the lead to Ben, who lowered me and took
over, climbing above my high point where the crack became
increasingly flora-filled.
It’s not easy to trust handfuls of bushes with all of your weight
on vertical terrain. With his forearms ablaze with lactic acid, Ben
yelled down a warning to me that he was going to fall. I braced
myself, but he’s decently heavier than me, and catching him
catapulted me upwards and across the cliff, my head, shoulders
and back rag-dolling against it as I spun uncontrollably.
When I settled, I realised my right shoulder was bleeding. I had
been slung 20m across the wall, which had eaten a 4cm-long
chunk of flesh from it. Luckily, as if I was prepared for this exact
scenario, I had a pocket full of tramadol.
Ben eventually pulled back onto the wall, traversing to the right
crack to avoid the tenuous bush-pulling. The real motivation for
the day’s mission became apparent once we were on top of the
mega-block; Ben had left his camera there after topping out the
chimney two days earlier, and had wanted to retrieve it.
The 150m headwall above us looked thin, hard and, in the
blazing, afternoon sun, unappealing. We descended. Even
though I’d added a bleeding shoulder to my woes, it felt
invigorating to have climbed something new.
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Ben Grindle peers over the edge, with Point 2135 looming behind him.
Jimmy Finlayson wades through the Tutoko River on his way back to
civilisation after a week in the wilderness.
Ben Grindle and Jimmy Finlayson cross the Tutoko River on their way to a
remote and unclimbed cliff face.
Ben Grindle and Jimmy Finlayson watch the sunset from Camp Derek.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//47

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equip
yourself!
Left: Ben Grindle climbs his way up as cloud fills the lower valley.
Above: Jimmy Finlayson enjoys a cool dip in a natural pool after descending to the river valley.
We experienced the same high the following day, though inadvertently. Ben
and I headed for what we thought was the South Ridge of Milne (grade
18). But Milne is incorrectly labelled on the NZ Topo Maps app, which we
were using to navigate, so we ended up climbing the south ridge of point
2135–an easy and worthwhile scramble with two summits, and maybe a
few moves of grade 14.
We faced one final uncertainty on our last morning: a first descent from
Camp Derek down to the Tutoko River. It started with abseils down slabs,
which converged on water-worn channels and steep waterfalls. Avoiding
these, we traversed and scrambled down verdant slopes to the north. When
they, too, became too steep, we abseiled off shrubs and, at one point, even
a flax bush.
Eventually we had no option but to join the flow of water, where the downclimbing
took on more of a canyoning aspect. As if to reward us, a pool of
the clearest turquoise greeted us near the bottom, where a quick dip in the
afternoon sunshine was obligatory. From there, with the biggest dangers
finally behind us, we had a leisurely stroll alongside the Tutoko River to the
Milford Road.
So, what did I learn? I learned that it's easy to make mistakes, despite
years of experience and, frankly, knowing better. I should have had my first
aid kit close to hand. I should have anchored myself to the wall—which I
did, but didn't do well—to avoid being catapulted across it when catching
Ben's fall. I should have planned for the unexpected.
The question of whether it’s worth it always hangs over any adventure to
the remote parts of the Darrans. The approaches are long and challenging,
the weather often volatile, and the climbing challenging not just in difficulty,
but also in how safe it may or may not be. Such adventures are not for
everyone.
Add in the uncertainty of first-ascent hunting, and the question of whether
it’s worth it only amplifies. But the potential rewards are also amplified.
And if you don’t go, you'll never know.
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kawekas
Autumn Equinox
Words and photos by Eric Skilling
The Camping, the Tramping, and the Incident with the Hunter
Mention that you are off exploring the Kawekas over Easter and most peoples’
response will be ‘where?’. Good news for those who visit there to enjoy the bush,
the birdlife and judging by the activity at night, the hunting, which must be epic.
More on that later.
When the local features are named The Rogue, Mad Dog Hill, and The Tits,
clearly this place has been a playground for those from an era that is well and truly
disappearing into our history. Strangely, after exercising all that imagination the
most creative title they could dream up for the two lakes was ‘The Lakes’.
Ours was a contrasting experience. A day of clear blue skies and light winds with
expansive views from the Pacific to the peaks of Tongariro National Park. Followed
by a day of cold, swirling cloud with landscapes limited to outcrops and peaks that
ghosted their way out of the mists as we made our way across the tops.
The perfect campsite before the storm arrived
Drying out at MacIntosh Hut
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Heading towards Kiwi Saddle Hut
Camping Out: One of the many highlights of tramping are the
distinctly different experiences you can be guaranteed as you
settle down each night.
Late the first evening we arrived at the spacious and peaceful
Kuripapango campsite. This is a gem of a place to camp. Set in
a steep and narrow valley at the foot of Te Manihi, surrounded
by thick podocarp forest, with water provided by the crisp and
clear Ngauroro River. Each site is separated by thick stands of
native bush or trees offering many sheltered spots to spend the
night.
By the time we had pitched tents a near full moon appeared
over the surrounding ridges and lit up the valley. It was a
pleasure to doze off to sleep listening to the river and the
odd call from the local morepork. Whoever is responsible for
managing the site deserve a free lifetime supply of whatever
they wish.
My second night up on the ridges could not have been more
different. Several hours away up the ridge, Kiwi Saddle Hut
(1240 metres) is nestled a few metres below the bushline at
the base of a short but steep scree slope. I pitched my oneman
tent in an idyllic setting on a cushion of fine beech leaves,
surrounded by a ring of mountain beech trees.
Sunset that night was a stunner. After walking back up the ridge
above the hut, we watched the sun disappear in an epic display
of orange, yellow and reds, exaggerating the rugged ridges of
Ruapehu in the distance. In the other direction a full moon slid
its way above the Pacific Ocean as the sea turned from a dark
steel blue to black.
In hindsight a night in the hut may have been the wiser choice
that night. An energetic southerly started skimming its way up
the ridge, bending the tops of the trees, encouraging me to
tighten guy ropes and re-position tent pegs. Then, instead of
dozing off to the soothing calls of a morepork, I was treated to a
visit by the local possum, grunting and chattering its indignation
just outside my tent.
Shortly after midnight, I was woken up by the loud rush of the
southerly in the treetops above me and the sprinkle of light
drizzle on the tent. A short time later, as I knew it would, the
drizzle that had been collecting in the trees above started the
random and much louder splatters against the side of the tent.
At this stage I was very grateful to those tent designers at
Macpac.
There was no way we would be enjoying the sunrise over
Hawkes Bay, but hey, I got to sleep in an extra half hour.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51

Variety of river crossing on our final day
Our third night was spent at Macintosh Hut several hundred
metres below the tops, safely protected from those gusty southerly
winds. Nicely placed on a small grassy flat overlooking a small
wetland, surrounded by lush, mature forest, this is justifiably a
popular hut, especially for hunters. Equinox is the time of the roar,
so instead of the howl of wind we got to enjoy the high-pitched
whistle and he-haw of sika deer throughout the night as they
wandered around the valley asserting themselves. Sika are a
pest, but somehow it all feels a bit more remote and wild listening
to the roar.
The Tramping: As is so often the case in New Zealand, you step
out of the car park and then either cross a river or climb straight
up a hill. This time it was a very manageable 500-metre climb
to Kuripapango (1250 metres) on a warm cloudless day, with a
gentle southerly breeze keeping us comfortably cool. Bliss.
Beginning amongst some tall pines, the trail winds its way through
thick fern which clung to our boots and soaked our gaiters. This
became scattered stands of juvenile wild pine as we reached the
summit.
Once onto the ridge the track disappeared into the stillness of
beech forest, home for a few piwakaka, bellbirds and robin. At the
first clearing where we were greeted by the welcoming view of the
mighty Ruapehu and the coned tip of Ngauruhoe, both looking a
lot closer than I had expected. To the east Hawkes Bay curved
round towards the cliffs of Cape Kidnappers, although Cooks Horn
maunga hid any sign of the city.
The next day made us appreciate the blue skies of the previous
day. Setting off into the mist, rugged up in beanies, scarves,
gloves, layers of merino and Gore-Tex, we followed the ridgeline
to the highest point at Kaiarahi (1507 metres). Instead of
spectacular vistas of the region we were buffeted by a cold wind
which turned the drizzle into a saturating shower and kept visibility
dropping as low as 50 metres. The terrain ahead became a
mystery until it materialised out the gloom. The upside was the
greens, whites and even purples of the alpine plants stood out
under the varnish of water.
Clumps of thick beech forest on the leeward side became havens of
calm with occasional cries of native birds, relishing the rain. Despite
the cold and damp, spirits were high amongst the group, and we
kept up a good pace and arrived at Macintosh hut a lot earlier than
expected. It was a pleasure to enjoy the view from the deck, a cup
of hot, sweetened coffee a gingernut, and more banter.
It took a bit longer than we expected to make our way back to
the carpark on the final day. Halfway along a well-marked path
Karen consulted the app on her phone and discovered we were
well off the designated path and gaining altitude when we should
have been heading down. We backtracked and found the original
path had been blocked off with a pile of manuka bush. Thanks to
Karen this was a short diversion, and we were only a few minutes
late by the time we reached the Tutaekuri River crossing.
Incident with the Hunter in the Bush
Sometimes conveniences are just not that inconvenient. Such
as on the track. Finding myself caught short I dropped my pack,
grabbed a roll of the finest triple-ply, and bashed my way 20 or
30 metres into the bush. Stepping behind the largest tree trunk
I could find, I ripped some branches off a small tree and began
digging. ‘Some-time-later’ I was just about to make my way back
to the path when the roar of a stag made me freeze.
It was close. Very close. Surely it would have been scared off by
the sound of my bush-bashing? I began to scan the bush around
me and then saw a flash of bright yellow a short distance away.
Realisation dawned on me. I was being hunted! Suddenly the
branches of the trees around me looked like a mass of antlers – 8,
10, 12 pointers seemed to surround me.
I managed to stammer out a “Hey! Oi! You right mate!” A pause,
and then “yeah mate” came back at me through the trees. The
relief I had experienced moments earlier paled into insignificance
compared to the liberation I felt at that moment.
Cam the hunter turned out to be a good keen bloke, Having
already bagged a stag earlier that day, he was heading back to
the hut to collect his gear before heading out replete with 20kg
of fresh venison. Thanks for not shooting me Cam. You added a
unique but unwelcome thrill to a memorable trek. A bright yellow
cap is on my shopping list.
The Kaweka Range
There are a lot of people who care about this place. Some
invaluable work has been done to protect kiwi and the forest is
regenerating after widespread burn-off in mid 1950s. The vistas
are unique, the huts are well placed and well maintained. What
more can I say.
Thanks also to Jetboil, Macpac, Backcountry Cuisine, Keen and
Karen’s App.
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“The harsh climate and remoteness of the Mackenzie
demanded strength of its men and woman, steel, a breadth
of vision and self-sufficiency that would grow, in human
terms, to match their grand environment. In later years
it was said there was something special about the people
who lived in the Mackenzie, an heroic proportion, and that
when they spoke of ‘going down’ to the coast there was
something more than physical about the descent.”
Pattern of Water - The Great Southern Lakes of New Zealand by Philip Temple
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MACKENZIE
REGION
*
mackenzie region
someplace special
The folks who call this special place home all have
something in common: passion for their unique region,
and genuine high-country hospitality. The towns of
Twizel, Lake Tekapo and Fairlie provide you with all
you need to enjoy this paradise: quality cafés, bars,
and eateries; shops specialising in outdoor gear; and a
variety of accommodation to choose from.
Those who love the Mackenzie keep coming back for
good reason: the larger-than-life scale of the gold,
white and turquoise landscape; the utter silence and
tranquillity; and the sparse, denuded landscape that
reduces everything to the most simple and uncluttered
elements. It’s a place to lose yourself and allow the
calmness and equanimity of the outdoors to reduce your
human concerns and schedules to a pervading ‘right
here right now’ mindset.
Read on for our suggestions on some unique things to
see and do in our Legendary Mackenzie!
Macaulay ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55
Valley -Image by Hollie Woodhouse

Above: She's on the Fly
Right: She's on Skis - Image by Alpine Recreation
She’s On Skis
Carving your own turns on fresh, unmarked snow is
one of the joys of backcountry skiing. Add to that no
queue lines and a sense of being the only people in the
world, and you’ve got a compelling case to head into the
mountains for some backcountry adventures!
Join a fun-filled week of ski touring and exploring
stunning glaciers with “She’s On Skis”, Alpine
Recreation’s girls-only group, guided by two of NZ's
select few female ski guides. The groups typically base
themselves at Kelman, Tasman Saddle, Centennial,
Pioneer or Plateau Huts, and undertake day tours
from there. Depending on conditions and group ability
some very fine peaks may be climbed on skis: Elie de
Beaumont, Minarets, Hochstetter Dome and many more.
Get your ladies together and create your own unique
adventure in a truly epic setting!
She’s On The Fly
Hannah Clement’s childhood was spent exploring
outdoors with her dad and brothers. From there a love
and passion for the wilderness was born, and Hannah
ended up becoming New Zealand’s first registered fulltime
female professional fly fishing guide. She hopes to
inspire more girls and women to become involved in the
outdoors.
Starting her own fly fishing company ‘She’s On The Fly’
Hannah is now busy running tours around the South
Island. The Mackenzie is a special place for her to
take clients to catch brown and rainbow trout. You can
opt a full day guiding, multi-day adventures, and even
helicopter camp-outs.
There’s something special about seeing nature from the
perspective of being waist deep in a river. Watching a
falcon flying overheard and tracking its shadow as it falls
on the water, seeing mountains and trees rise out of the
landscape, and the rippling water coursing around your
body as you commune with the elements. Fly fishing
takes patience but is hugely rewarding. It’s a natural
stress reliever that helps lower blood pressure, reduce
stress hormones, and decrease muscle tension.
From the initial choosing of the right fly for the right time
of day, to gracefully casting the line over the water, and
finally the rush of excitement as a trout sucks the fly
into its mouth – this is why fly fishing is addictive and
rewarding!
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//57

Above: Alpine Guides Barron Saddle Ski Touring / Below: Macaulay Hut, Image by Hollie Woodhouse
Barron Saddle Ski Touring
Macaulay Hut
From their beginnings in 1966, Alpine Guides have
remained committed to honest expectations, safety,
reliability, and a philosophy built on lessons gleaned
from decades of guiding in the mountains. They’ve
fostered generations of skiers, climbers and guides
– providing them with opportunities for further
adventures.
Join them for a three-day excursion on the Barron
Saddle, one of Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park’s
classic ski tours. This is for experienced and
competent ski tourers with some alpine climbing
experience. If you don’t have these skills then you
can always look at joining one of their climbing
school courses or backcountry ski touring camps.
The Barron Saddle tour is available from mid-
August to spring, during the time when snow
conditions are usually optimum. At an elevation
of 1,995 metres, the Barron Saddle Hut is located
at the head of the Mueller Glacier looking into the
Dobson Valley. The hut sleeps eight and is a cozy
barrel in the mountains with solar powered lights
and basic amenities. There are some side summits
available for the right party in the right conditions,
with backups for avalanche risk/poor weather.
Looking for a nice modern hut to spend a weekend
away? Macaulay Hut is well-looked after and has 14
bunk beds, cooking, heating, lighting, mattresses,
non-flush toilet and tap water. It’s a great base to
explore the surrounding valleys, streams and rivers.
Macaulay Hut is owned by the Mackenzie Alpine
Trust and the recommended donation is $10 per
person. The hut is located in the Sibbald Mountain
Range north of Lake Tekapo. The track starts at the
end of the shingle Lilybank Road, and is 18km long
and suitable only for 4WD as there are some river
crossings and boulders to avoid. Another option is
to leave your vehicle in a designated parking area
and cross the river on foot and walk to the hut.
Mountain biking or horse riding are other options to
reach the hut.
Once at the hut it’s up to you whether to keep
exploring the local area, or simply unpack, open a
bottle of wine, and sit in the sunshine and marvel
at the pristine location. You’ve arrived and there’s
nothing more to concern yourself with other than
the easy tasks of enjoying dinner and playing some
cards well into the star-studded night with your
companions.
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Above: BeSpoke Bike Tours - image by Mitchell Clark Creative
Right: Images compliments of Tekapo Wellness
BeSpoke Bike Tours
Annie O’Sullivan grew up in the North Island to farming parents and loved
physical activity, especially in the outdoors. Later on she became a multisport
athlete and outdoor education teacher. Annie chose to quit teaching
and start her own business because she liked the idea of linking her
passion with work, and working for herself. After noticing there were no bike
businesses at Lake Tekapo, Annie seized the opportunity and launched
BeSpoke Bike Tours, now entering their fifth season.
In 2014, Genesis Energy closed the Tekapo Canal road to cars, which
opened up the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail’s alternate start from Lake Tekapo.
This move has seen an increasing amount of cyclists choosing to begin their
315km adventure from Lake Tekapo, removing the need for a helicopter
crossing across the Tasman River at official start Aoraki/Mount Cook
National Park. Cycling on the canal road is easy (so long as it’s not windy!)
and the views are expansive in the largest sense of the word. The golden
grasslands stretch away unbroken until reaching the faraway mountain
ranges, while being crisscrossed with canals of the most vivid turquoise
and sea-green colours. You’ll pass by people fishing for those recordbreaking
trout and salmon, and enjoying the tranquillity of the grandly sparse
landscape.
An interesting ride offered by BeSpoke Bike Tours is to start from Dog
Kennel Corner, over the Mackenzie Pass, and around to finish in Burkes
Pass. The ride is a pleasant 40km, off the beaten track, and a chance to
enjoy the unparalleled wide-open spaces of the Mackenzie Region away
from the highways. On this ride, you can dig into the history of the area,
including the James MacKenzie Memorial, a three-sided obelisk with the
inscription in English, Māori and Gaelic: “In this spot James Mackenzie, the
freebooter, was captured by John Sidebottom and the Māoris Taiko and
Seventeen and escaped from them the same night.”
It was back in 1855 when James was caught with 1,000 sheep that were
allegedly stolen from a station near Timaru. Several escapes, imprisonment,
road gang work, a mistrial controversy, and a subsequent pardon made
him into a folk legend. The local farmers resented the power of wealthy
landowners, and his pardon was popular in the frontier society that hailed
James as a shepherd, drover and thief extraordinaire. And thus the
area, known as Te Manahuna to the Māori, became widely known as the
Mackenzie Region.
Wellness Retreats
Arriving at Lake Tekapo, with the majestic mountains
and stunning lake, you can just feel your worries melt
away. This special setting makes it the ideal wellness
destination for retreats, yoga classes and workshops.
Tekapo Wellness was founded by Penny Wilson, a
Lake Tekapo resident who is passionate about sharing
this stunning location with visitors to the region.
With a background in human nutrition and exercise
science, Penny says Lake Tekapo is perfect as it
allows her to combine her passion for health with
her love for the mountains and the outdoors. The
most rewarding role of her work is hosting women on
retreats and workshops, and seeing the difference that
a bit of time, space and encouragement makes.
In addition to yoga and relaxation, a series of
workshops helps participants to explore and learn
tools for positive change. They also enjoy some down
time to walk, read or sleep, and top it off with delicious
whole foods.
Penny enjoys working alongside other local
businesses, recently trialling Wellness Wednesdays
at Tekapo Springs with yoga, hot pools, spa and
massage. In September she will be heading for the ski
hills with a ‘mountain magic’ yoga and ski package.
She is also very excited to be taking her overnight
retreats into the backcountry next summer – watch this
space!
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dries quickly. Fair Trade Certified.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
Macpac Women’s 220 Merino Long Sleeve Top $119.99
A staple for any adventurer, made from
midweight merino wool for natural warmth,
temperature regulation, and odour
resistance. 18.5 micron ensures next-to-skin
softness, making this thermal base layer
ideal for resort riding, light activity, and postadventure
relaxing.
Also available in men’s sizes.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Macpac Women’s Prothermal Long Sleeve Fleece Top $149.99
Technical fleece for high-performance activity.
Designed in partnership with the New Zealand
Alpine team for breathable warmth that doesn’t
compromise weight. Made using Polartec®
Power Grid fleece to wick moisture and
Polygiene® technology to help prevent odour.
Also available in men’s sizes.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
rab Superflux Hoody $199.95
Whether you’re hiking in the hills or scaling a
rockface, the Superflux Hoody is tailor-made to keep
you comfortable, composed and in control during
high-intensity sport.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
rab Filament Pull-on $169.95
Embrace extreme sport with comfort and confidence.
At 213g, the Filament Pull-on is a lightweight stretch
fleece mid-layer that fully warrants its place on any highenergy
trip.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//63

outdoor research Women’s Aspire II GORE-TEX Jacket $429.99
2-layer GORE-TEX® for waterproof, breathable and
lightweight performance. Features adjustable hood,
drawcord hem, and hook-and-loop cuff closures.
Stows into its hand pocket. 332g (medium) also
available in black. XS-XL
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
rab Cirrus Flex 2.0 Hoody $299.95
Featuring fully recycled synthetic PrimaLoft® Silver
Insulation Luxe and stretch fleece side panels, the
Cirrus Flex 2.0 Jacket is a lightweight, low-maintenance
insulating layer always earning its place in your pack.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
rab Women’s Cubit Stretch Down Vest $349.95
For a quick boost of warmth, the Cubit
Stretch Down Vest filled with 700FP
recycled down is the perfect everyday vest
on a cold winter’s day.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
rab Xenair Alpine Light Jacket $349.95
Adaptable, lightweight and versatile,
the Xenair Alpine Light Hoody is a
dual weight fill, synthetic insulated
jacket that excels in mixed conditions
and start stop activities.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Jacket $999.99
Built for and by alpine climbers for
protection from the elements with 3-layer
GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with a
3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panel
along the upper back. Features a trim fit,
pit zips and pack-and-harness-compatible
pockets. 471g (medium)
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95
With its active fit, 100% recycled
down and fabrics, and body mapped
baffles, the Women’s Microlight
Jacket is the ultimate multipurpose
women’s down jacket.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

FEATURED PRODUCT
rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95
From long evenings and epic sunrise missions to
casual days at the crag, the Cubit Stretch Down
Hoody is versatile and warm. Offering functionality
and style for everyday outdoor adventures, this jacket
combines ground-breaking weaving techniques,
innovative stretch technology and the highest quality
P.U.R.E. recycled down for next-level comfort.
The Cubit is insulated with top performing 700 fill
power P.U.R.E. recycled down that has been finished
with Nikwax hydrophobic treatment, giving a second
life to down that might otherwise end up in landfill.
The down-filled hood has a stretch binding to give a
close, secure fit even on windy days.
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ
Macpac Women’s Sundowner Down Jacket $429.99
Keep warm on cool-weather hikes.
Pertex® Quantum recycled nylon lets
600 loft water resistant HyperDRY
duck down fully loft to maximise thermal
efficiency. An additional DWR coating
encourages water to bead and roll off the
fabric’s surface. The high chin has a soft
lining, and the hood can be unzipped and
removed as well. Also available in men’s
sizes.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Macpac Women’s Icefall Down Jacket $499.99
Macpac’s highest performing down jacket,
developed with the New Zealand Alpine
team for weight-conscious climbers. 800 loft
water resistant HyperDRY goose down
fill and PrimaLoft® Gold synthetic insulation
provides warmth in damp conditions.
Pertex® Quantum recycled nylon made
with interlocking Y Fuse yarns for maximum
performance and longevity. Also available
in men’s sizes.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
patagonia Nano-Air® Jacket $379.95
This jacket was made to be worn for the
entirety of your aerobic, start-stop alpine
missions, so you’re never slowed down
by changing layers. Warm, stretchy and
breathable it’s Fair Trade Certified sewn.
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//65

Cotopaxi Teca Cálido Jacket $249.99
Two looks, one jacket – for year round versatility. The Teca
Cálido is the most sustainable reversible jacket made from 100%
repurposed fabric – shell & insulation.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
Macpac Women’s Copland Raincoat $429.99
Make the most of big hikes in bad weather. 3-layer
Pertex® Shield fabric is durable, waterproof,
windproof and breathable. An additional DWR coating
increases protection, and a longer cut ensures plenty
of coverage. The hood can also be rolled away and
secured. Also available in men’s sizes.
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ
Cotopaxi Teca Fleece Pullover $189.99
Sustainably-minded, super
cosy and colourful - the Teca
Fleece is a must have layer for
all adventures. Consciously
created from remnant fabric
and recycled materials.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
outdoor research Cirque II Pants $249.99
4-season pants for your highoutput
alpine adventures. Features
avalanche beacon pocket and a
harness-compatible waist. Water,
wind and abrasion resistant.
Movement-mirroring stretch and
unmatched breathability.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
outdoor research Voodoo Pants $159.99
Perfect for climbing and walking
adventures and still comfortable
for spring ski tours. Water and
wind-resistant, stretchy UPF
50+ soft shell fabric. Available in
black and charcoal.
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

Cotopaxi Del Día Bags & Packs $79.99-$469.99
Del Día gear uses 100% repurposed fabric – keeping
perfectly good materials out of landfill, putting them
into the hands of thoughtful adventurers like you.
WWW.COTOPAXI.CO.NZ
Akktive High Performance women's Boardshorts usd$45.00
Designed by WSL Big Wave World Surfing Champion
Keala Kennelly. 4-way stretch fabric with durable
elasticity & soft texture is comfortable, breathable,
and lightweight in both dry and wet conditions
WWW.AKKTIVE.COM
MERRELL Bravada Sunset Print - Women’s $229.00
This female focused hiker features the fit and feel of a
sneaker with the traction and performance of a hiker to
bring the wearer lightweight and stable comfort while out
on the trial.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
MERRELL Antora 2 Eco Dyed - Women’s $259.00
The Antora is uniquely tailored to a Woman’s foot with sneaker light
comfort mixed with confidence boosting support and traction. This
version of the Merrell best selling trail walker/runner is made with
solution dyed yarns, a process that uses less water and energy
compared to traditional dyeing methods.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
MERRELL Moab 3 Mid Waterproof - Women’s $299.00
The #1 hiking shoe in the world just got better. The
Moab 3 family is now made more comfortable, with
more eco-friendly material choices and more stabile
with great grip for any trail. This Mid features a
waterproof liner to keep your feet dry while out hiking.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
MERRELL Siren 3 Gore-Tex $319.00
Designed specifically for women, this hiker is built with Q Form 2
technology and a Vibram Megagrip outsole for confidence no matter
the terrain. Featuring a lightweight mesh upper and a GORE-TEX
waterproof membrane for exceptional breathability performance.
WWW.MERRELL.CO.NZ
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//67

Serving Hot Mexican & Cool Margaritas since 1995
Locations in Alexandra, Cromwell, Dunedin, Invercargill, and Wanaka
See the latest menu and BOOK ONLINE at
www.amigos.co.nz
@amigos_nz

GLERUPS HONEY RUBBER BOOT $199.00
Give your feet a comfy break after a day of adventure
and try the comfiness and softness of 100% natural
wool. Available in slipper, shoe and boot with a
leather or rubber sole. Get natural, get cosy and get
yourself some glerups.
WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ
SALEWA RAPACE GTX $549.90
The Rapace GTX is a lightweight mountaineering boot with a hardwearing
nubuck upper with waterproof breathable GORE-TEX®
protection. The 3F System provides ankle support, flexibility and a
perfect fit. Our Bilight TPU technology and Nylon + 27% Fiberglass in
the midsole ensures an ergonomic hold and allows the use of semiautomatic
crampons. There’s a full rubber rand for protection against
rock and scree, and the Vibram WTC outsole has an aggressive tread
pattern that gives good traction yet provides a natural feel and secure
grip on mixed terrain.
Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 740 g (W) 615 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
salEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER MID GORE-TEX® $499.90
Our Mountain Trainer Mid GTX is a lightweight alpine trekking boot
with a suede leather upper and a waterproof breathable GORE-TEX®
Performance Comfort lining. At the ankle, the Flex Collar allows
natural movement and the 3F System provides flexibility, support
and a blister-free fit. Underfoot we feature a dual-density Bilight TPU
midsole and a Vibram® WTC outsole.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90
The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric
upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®
Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.
The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers
allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot; Climbing Lacing
right to the toe allows for a more precise fit, while the Vibram® Alpine
Hiking outsole covers a wide spectrum of mountain terrain.
Fit: STANDARD / Weight (M) 552 g (W) 482 g (pictured).
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90
Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our
lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well
on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-
TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity
levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.
Fit: WIDE / Weight: (M) 565 g (W) 465 g (pictured)
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//69

exped Women’s Comfort -10 Down Sleeping Bag (Medium) $599.99
Women's-specific design fits to 180cm (small version available fits
to 170cm) 3D footbox has a separate zip so you can open it out.
Side arm zip opposite the main zip lets you use both arms without
leaving the warmth of the bag, 675g RDS-certified European duckdown.
1190g
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ
Rumpl Nanoloft Puffy Blanket – Crisp Fade $329.99
Keeping you toasty wherever you go. Our
Blankets combine our synthetic insulation (100%
post-consumer plastics) with the same technical
materials found in premium puffer jackets.
WWW.RUMPL.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Tuatara Hard Shell Rooftop Tent $3999.00
Our lowest profile rooftop tent at only 17cm. The Hard Shell
can be fully set up in under 1-minute with the pop-up gas
struts. Cargo tray sold separately.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
kiwi camping Tuatara Hard Shell Tent
Top Rails $89.99
Designed to fit our Hard Shell Rooftop
tent for added storage capacity for
your adventures. Great for surfboards,
kayaks and other gear.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi camping Matai Camper +5° Sleeping Bag
$99.99
The Matai Camper is a lightweight sleeping
bag ideal for general camping. Includes our
semi-tapered shape design and adjustable
draft collar to trap warmth.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -0°C Sleeping Bag
$129.00
The Mamaku Pro provides exceptional warmth
on cold adventures. The semi-tapered design
features a drawstring contoured hood that
packs down into the handy compression bag
for easy pack and carry.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
Kiwi Camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping
Bag $119.00
The Mamaku Trek sleeping bag is ideal
for trekking or camping adventures.
The semi-tapered design features
a drawstring-adjustable contoured
hood that packs down into the handy
compression bag for easy pack and
carry.
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ
70//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

FIND YOUR
OWN WAY.
AT THE END OF THE DAY, IT’S ALL ABOUT FREEDOM – go where you want, when you want,
making the most of this country we live in. We hear you, and we’ve got what you need.
4601-07/22
PAIGE HAREB | NZ PROFESSIONAL SURFER | CASTLEPOINT BEACH | 4.08PM | SUNDAY 3 APRIL

Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch
Born from Adventure: Shackleton
Blended Malt Scotch is based on
the spirit supplied to the 1907 British
Antarctic Expedition, expertly crafted
using a selection of the finest Highland
Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available
at various Liquor Retailers .
WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ
deepcreek Endless Summer WCIPA $8.99
Roll out the red carpet, this playful lion
has arrived! This Extroverted Hazy IPA
is packed full of fun + perfect for your
next adventure!
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ
JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE
Inspired by the innovative,
everchanging drinks scene, we
instinctively knew how a drop of
Jägermeister and a backbeat of cold
brew coffee could transform any
night. The enviable result? A brandnew
mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD
BREW COFFEE. A unique fusion
of JÄGERMEISTER’s 56 botanicals
and intense cold brew coffee.
WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ
TIRED
LEGS?
ONE FOR THE ROAD - STONE SOFA KOLSCH
$7.95
Crisp, delicate and oh-so-drinkable!
These light and refreshing ale-lager
hybrids are perfect for during or after
activities and have become favoured
by beer lovers. It has a thirst quenching
ability along with being a fun beer to
enjoy with food.

BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:
The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better
by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also
improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.
For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
ONE FOR THE ROAD - GOT HOPS? IPA $7.95
Fruity, citrus-like characteristics grab
your attention. This beer is all about
the hop flavour, aroma and bitterness.
It'll make you smile, refresh you and
leave you satisfied long enough to get
another!

FEED YOUR ADDICTION
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.
Never have a dead phone
again! Because now you can
charge straight from the Sun
with SunSaver. Perfect for
that week-long hike, day at
the beach, or back-up for any
emergency. Check us out at:
www.sunsaver.co.nz
Experts at adventure travel since 2000
We live what we sell!
www.madabouttravel.co.nz
Temerature. Taste. Transport.
Hydroflask, more than just a water bottle.
www.hydroflask.co.nz
Our mission is to produce
the best quality beers
possible across a range of
flavours and styles and to
have fun doing it!
www.dcbrewing.co.nz
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.
www.patagonia.co.nz
Stocking an extensive range
of global outdoor adventure
brands for your next big
adventure. See them for travel,
tramping, trekking, alpine and
lifestyle clothing and gear.
www.outfittersstore.nz
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, Adventure Tents,
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz
Our very own online store where
you will find hard goods to keep you
equipped for any adventure.
www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
www.lightandfast.co.nz

Fresh powder. Glassy lakes. Lush bush. Icy glaciers. Virgin
trails. Awe-inspiring views. We're all about the Southern Alps,
and we're all about adventure. Proudly 100% NZ owned,
Southern Alps Brewing Co uses NZ's finest hops and malt to
produce a premium, crisp and clean lager.
www.southernalpsbrewing.com
Meals bursting with flavour, combined with home compostable
packaging, means you really can have it all in the mountains.
Designed by ‘foodies’ for maximum plant-based deliciousness
and wrapped in earth positive, lightweight, packable pouches.
www.localdehy.co.nz
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best
brands across New Zealand & the globe.
www.bivouac.co.nz
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.
www.merrell.co.nz
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and
tested in New Zealand since 1973.
www.macpac.co.nz
Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment
specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place
for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor
clothing and more.
www.livingsimply.co.nz
www.glerups.co.nz
glerups shoes, slippers
and boots are known for
their exceptional comfort
and unique design.
Over the years we have
perfected the wool mix
by blending Gotland
wool with quality wool
from New Zealand
farmers.
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz
Sustainably designed outdoor gear that fuels both
adventure and global change, by dedicating a
percentage of revenues to nonprofits working to improve
the human condition. www.cotopaxi.com
Supplying tents and
camping gear to Kiwis
for over 30 years, Kiwi
Camping are proud to
be recognised as one of
the most trusted outdoor
brands in New Zealand.
www.kiwicamping.co.nz
With stores in Clyde and
Cromwell, Bike it Now! is
your access point to the
Central Otago Bike trials: T
> Lake Dunstan Trail
> Otago Central Rail Trail
> Roxbourgh Gorge
and more...
New Zealand’s first online
store solely dedicated to
Non Alcoholic adult drinks.
www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz
www.bikeitnow.co.nz

t r a v e l
KAYAK SAMOA
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL
"Do we have to wear spray decks?" Judy asked as
we went through the kayak briefing. "We didn't need
them on Sydney harbour, and they always make me
feel unsafe."
"Yep, everyone has to wear skirts on this trip,” I
replied with a smile, referring to the neoprene deck
covers by their other popular name. "These are full
sea kayaks. For the first few days, we will be inside
the reef, and skirts aren't critical, but if the wind
comes up suddenly and we are outside the reef or if
we have to cross the reef with an awkward current,
the deck becomes essential to staying afloat."
We were starting a nine-day kayak trip around Upolu,
the most populated island of Samoa, it lies across the
Apolima Strait from the island of Savaiʿi to the west.
Upolu is about 74 km long and 26 km across at its
widest point, and while we wouldn't kayak the whole
way, we planned to visit as many of the small coastal
islands as we could.
That first day we paddled within the lagoon to
Manono Island. After lunch, we used the excuse of
a kayak-based snorkel over the coral outcrops to
practice wet exits, falling out of the kayak while fully
skirted in and deep-water re-entries, getting back into
the kayak when it's too deep to boost off the bottom.
In tropical water and with only fish as onlookers, it's
an exercise I always enjoy as the initial trepidation
turns to confident smiles.
Dogs, cars, and bicycles are banned on Manono
Island, which, as you can imagine, creates a peaceful
environment; a coastal walking track connects the
three traditional villages. An afternoon stroll that we
had expected to take two hours stretched into dusk
as we frequently stopped to talk to the locals, join in
village volleyball games and spent time listening to a
choir practising for a wedding.
76//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//77

The following day we were up early and
paddled out to Nuulopa Island in the
half-light to watch the flying foxes return
to roost on this tiny, uninhabited tooth of
an island that had once been part of a
volcano rim. The bats forage overnight
on the plentiful papaya and other tropical
fruits of the main islands before returning
to crowded roosting trees which are
overhanging the sea. Here they fight and
squabble noisily for a branch from which
to hang and sleep the day away. Our
attention was divided between the bats
and the spectacular orange sunrise that
sparkled off the water around Manono.
That afternoon we snorkelled through
a colony of giant clams in Le Faga Bay.
These fluorescent molluscs are almost a
metre long and located in a sheltered area
less than 100 metres from shore. With a
water temperature more like that of a tepid
bath, we inevitably left the water only once
we were too wrinkled as we were never
going to be too cold.
By day 5, we had had several adventures
outside the reef, including visiting
Nuusafee Island. Landing there involved
negotiating the reef entrance. A few of our
group in their kayaks decided to surf small
reefs on the way. The sense of being alone
in paradise was intense as we swam in the
lagoon and picnicked on the white sand
beach.
For most of us, the highlight of the trip
was Namua Island. To get there, we had
taken an unusual route, paddling from the
beachside resort of Lalomanu around the
outside of Nuutele Island. We had to be
careful as there was a metre-high swell
running with a significant chop created
from the backwash off the island. You
never know what you might see in this
tranquil, unspoilt water; out of the blue
(literally), someone spotted a whale spout
a few hundred metres away, and as we
watched it, from a different direction a
fine blubbery-smelling mist drifted over
us from another whale that had breached
unnoticed right beside us. September
and October are the peak months when
humpback whales (tafolā) visit Samoa, but
you can often see them all year round.
The only habitation on Namua is a small
collection of Beach Fales on the sandy
beach in a wilderness paradise. The island
rears up behind the coast, providing a lofty
lookout for whales and dolphins in the bay
and is a convenient base for exploring the
nearby islands. From here, we kayaked
across to Fanuatapu Island, where we had
recently found and cleared a track to the
small lighthouse. From the lighthouse, we
watched frigate birds in aerial dog fights
with other tropical birds. The frigate birds
have no protective oil in their feathers and
so get most of their food by stealing it on
the wing off other species.
Lesa, the 13-year-old daughter of the
proprietor of the Namua resort, suggested
we attempt a walk around the outside of
the island. "It is easy enough at low tide
if the sea is moderate." Then she added,
"Don't tell my dad, but we got swept off the
rocks one day."
That was just the incentive we needed,
and we spent the next hour clambering
around. Fortunately, it was a relatively
calm sea so we could enjoy the island’s
wild side. We were admiring the walking
fish on the rocks, the boobies circling
overhead to the backdrop of the crashing
surf.
Towards the end of our trip, we paddled
to Nuutele Island. Entering the deep
water outside the reef entrance, we were
surprised by a giant turtle just resting
on the surface. Too big to be worried
by our presence, he looked at us lazily
before slowly swimming away. An
escort of swooping gannets and petrels
accompanied us as we approached the
island.
Nuutele island was once home to a leper
colony, and it seemed that sea conditions
might be calm enough for us to land. A
narrow channel had been blasted through
an inner reef, and we took turns running
the gauntlet to crash onto the shore of
rounded coral boulders in a very wet
landing. The colony's ruins were mute
testimony to how brutal life before penicillin
was. The foundations were littered with
coconut shells tossed there by big swells,
and the only water supply was a trickle
down a rock face.
Under a Samoan setting sun, we were
being fanned by the warm tropical breeze
as we had each day of the trip. We
finished back at our cottage with a meal
of seared premium masimasi tuna steaks
and a local ribeye steak with green papaya
salad. And inevitably, we planned the next
trip over one too many Vailima beers and
glasses of fine New Zealand wine.
Outdoor Samoa have safely run bike and
kayak tours in Samoa for 14 years. With
a fleet of over 100 bikes and 20 modern
sea kayaks they provide 9-day all inclusive
tours from $1,750 NZD.
Contact Ross and Frances at:
office@outdoor.co.nz to organise
a custom tour or join a group.
Outdoorsamoa.com
78//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

It’s been worth the wait. We look forward to seeing you soon. Re-discover
how beautiful Samoa truly is. Explore untouched landscapes and dive in
warm crystal clear waters packed with tropical fish. Self drive, bike or stroll
through the wonders that make this island life one to cherish just like the
locals do.

t r a v e l
Captain Andy using a sextant
SOUTH SEAS SHANTIES
Islands have long held a deep, abiding
fascination. Everyone who has grappled
with getting along with their fellow human
being understands the phrase “can’t
live with them, can’t live without them”.
Everyone has at some time mused on what
life would be like on a remote deserted
island, alone with only the sound of the
gentle wash against the sunbleached
sands.
Perhaps it’s because so few have dared
make this daydream a reality that such
men as Robert Dean Frisbie (“The Book
of Pukapuka”, “The Island of Desire”) and
Tom Neale (“An Island to Oneself”) take
on an almost mythical role in our collective
consciousness, as though they carry upon
their shoulders all our yearnings for a
simple, solitary life in tune with the tides of
nature.
An American, Robert Dean Frisbie became
captivated by the Northern Cook Islands,
sailing to view the black pearl beds in
Penryhn, to Manihiki and to the now
legendary Suwarrow (Suvarov), where he
was later to tie his 4 small children to the
trunks of island mahogany trees to save
their lives from violent hurricane winds.
A New Zealander, Tom Neale became
frustrated after four years in the New
Zealand Navy, visiting many South Pacific
island ports but feeling as though he’d
never really experienced island life. Buying
himself out of the Navy, Neale started
wandering from island to island, taking odd
jobs as the need arose.
As well as many of the Cook Islands he
also visited the Pago Pago of Somerset
Maugham, the Apia of James Michener,
and the Tahiti of Paul Gauguin. He came to
deeply love the islands which he described
as “pearls across the South Pacific” and
most of all, he longed to truly experience
island solitude.
It was 1943 when Tom Neale came to meet
Robert Dean Frisbie, a profound event
Captain Andy with island
adventurer and author TOM
NEALE, aboard the Tiare Taporo
ADVENTURES IN RAROTONGA
which was to change his life. The two were
introduced by Captain Andy Thomson, a
respected man of the sea and character
in his own right, a bluff, hearty man with
steady blue eyes, a natural command, and
the accent of a Brooklyn cab driver.
Tom Neale had served as engineer on
Captain Andy’s 100 ton island schooner
‘Tiare Taporo’ (‘Lime Blossom’), which
traded copra and other goods between
Tahiti, the Cook Islands and New Zealand
during the 1940s and ‘50s.
Captain Andy then offered Neale a job
as an outer island general storekeeper,
and invited him over to his hand-built
coral home which now stands, restored
and expanded, opposite The Rarotongan
Beach Resort & Lagoonarium.*
Andy’s renowned talents as a ready host
and raconteur with a racy vocabulary won
him many friends, among them fellow
blown-away American Robert Dean Frisbie.
It is perhaps no accident that all three men
– Frisbie, Thomson and later also Neale –
became such firm friends. All three shared
a deep love of islands, and of adventure.
Born in New York in 1887, Andy Thomson
grew up on Long Island which in his day
was crowded with square-riggers and big
steamers. His wanderlust led him to ‘ride
the (railway) rods’ as a hobo all over the
United States before serving his sailing
apprenticeship on square-riggers going
down the east coast of the Americas
and round the demonic Horn, as well
as voyages to Alaska (where he also
worked constructing railways) and as a
quartermaster within the Great Lakes.
He first saw Rarotonga from the deck of
a Boston barque when he was just 15.
Seduced by the South Seas, he returned
a few years later, marrying a local girl
and making their home on the island’s
southwest coast.
Within two days of arriving in the Cook
Captain Andy’s coral & limestone
house which sits directly opposite
The Rarotongan. Captain Andy
and his Rarotongan wife are laid to
rest alongside his old family home
Islands to take up his storekeeping job,
Neale was invited over to Andy Thomson’s
house, and there, on the broad verandah,
over glasses of excellent rum muddled
with the juice of squeezed limes and sugar,
Neale met the man who was to inspire him
like no other. The two men immediately
connected, and during the long, intense
conversations which followed in which
Frisbie would extol the beauty of Suwarrow
in his deep, captivating voice, Neale
became intent on finding any way possible
to live on this most remote of islands in the
very navel of the South Pacific.
When Neale eventually cast eyes upon
Suwarrow for the first time, it was aboard
Captain Andy’s ‘Tiare Taporo’, edging
towards Anchorage on a calm sea as
though “floating on vast pieces of coloured
satin”.
He later recalled in his famed account of
his hermetic life on Suwarrow, “An Island
To Oneself”, that when he looked down
into the water that morning “I thought I
had never seen so many colours in my life
as the vivid blues, greens and even pinks
... no painter could have imitated those
colours.”
“An Island to Oneself” was to further fire
the imaginations of all those who have
dreamt of a simple life of solitude on a
remote deserted island. It may be true that
no man is an island, but it is also true that
many a man has desperately wished they
were one.
* Captain Andy’s final resting place lies
across the Circle Island Road from The
Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium,
beside his original home which the Resort
has restored as a heritage building and
where guests can book to stay, 3-Bedroom
Private Pool & Spa Villa Tiare Taporo (Lime
Blossom). The Resort’s Captain Andy’s
Beach Bar & Grill is named in his honour,
and a new extension to Captain Andy’s
with direct views onto his beloved sea has
recently been opened.
80//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

Captain Andy used to enjoy a quiet swim at the beach across the road from his home. This stretch of white sandy beach –
Aroa Beach - now sits directly in front of The Rarotongan Beach Resort & Lagoonarium
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//81

Cook Islands.
Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022
Float above the world’s bluest blue
OVERWATER HEAVEN

Images by Steve Dickinson
Surround yourself in an
ocean of beauty while diving
in The Islands of Tahiti. Here
you’ll dive in the presence
of deep-sea giants such
as sharks, rays, turtles and
dolphins.
Our waters are teeming with
life where each dive brings a
new treasure to uncover and
a new story for you to share.
DIVING.TAHITITOURISME.COM

t r a v e l
DIVING
THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI
Size isn't everything but it sure is impressive!
The first thing that anyone talks about after diving in The Islands of
Tahiti, is the presence of sharks, rays, and cetaceans (whales and
dolphins). There are no less than twenty species of sharks. There are
rays in abundance, especially the manta rays, which is an unforgettable
sight underwater.
As early as 2002, The Islands of Tahiti issued a decree declaring its
territorial waters as a (sanctuary for whales and marine mammals). A
choice which has borne fruit, since each year, from July to November,
dozens of humpback whales migrate to The Islands of Tahiti ‘s waters
to give birth. Not to mention the dolphins, such as in Rangiroa, where
a colony of bottlenose dolphins, familiar with divers and come to meet
them daily.
But it would not be fair to limit this description to the presence of these
giants of the sea, because the other characteristic of the regions water
is the diversity and profusion of life that they shelter, both in the open
sea (tunas, barracudas, kingfish...) and on the reefs (turtles, parrotfish,
grouper, angelfish, butterfly fish, perch, and so many others). There
are over 50 diving centres found in The Islands of Tahiti, and an
underwater landscape as large as Europe where each island reveals
underwater its own unique identity. Whether you are a beginner or an
experienced diver, there is a dive experience exactly right for you.
TAHITI
Tahiti, (the main island) with its variable
underwater landscape, is accessible for all levels.
Most dives take place on drop-offs that are ideal
for observing the fauna, around which gravitate
a multitude of fish of all species, including turtles
or Honu in Tahitian, the source of many Tahitian
legends.
Our top four:
Seaplane and the Schooner - Lagoon, 6-21m
(20ft) One dive, two wrecks! These two wrecks
were sunk intentionally: the Catalina type
seaplane in 1962 and the schooner, a former
bomb disposal unit in 1976. Many species have
taken up residence here!
The Marado - Ocean, 18-43m (60-40ft) It’s a
drop off with an amazing relief makes it one of the
most beautiful sites of Tahiti Iti and accessible to
all. Covered with gorgonian fans from 20m (65ft)
deep.
The White Valley - Ocean, 18m (59ft) Incredible
dive with geological relief and white sandy bottom
that offers a remarkable observation, and a high
concentration of sharks.
THE Turtle Plate - Ocean, 18m (59ft) Situated
in Punaauia, numerous turtles swimming in their
natural environment. Observe them quietly, it is
magic!
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//85

Fish by the millions typifies diving here
MOOREA
Immerse yourself in the heart of Tahiti’s
sister island, a peaceful and protected
environment with two beautiful bays:
Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay.
Our top three:
Le Tiki - Ocean, 20m (30-70ft) This spot
located at the north-western tip of Moorea,
is known for its fast changing and rapid
current. Its particularity: it welcomes
a school of sharks that have taken up
residence here.
Vaiare - Ocean This dive site will offer
you the opportunity to observe a beautiful
diversity of species. You will encounter
rays, black tip sharks, turtles, schools of
barracuda and sometimes even up to 6
lemon sharks.
Canyons of Opunohu - Ocean, 9-21m
(30-70 ft) Dive spot for all levels. The
most experienced divers can discover
the exceptional Rose Garden. You will
encounter a great diversity of species
such as black tip sharks, lemon sharks,
turtles, school of snapper and surgeonfish.
HUAHINE
Huahine is an incredibly beautiful
diving destination and the Fitii pass is
comparable by its richness to some of the
more remote Tuamotu spots. You can find
schools of sharks, jackfish, batfish, and
barracudas, and all the usual small fauna.
Our top two:
Avapehi Pass - Pass, 3-30m (0-100ft)
Get ready to experience a unique dive full
of surprises. You will see giant trevally,
barracudas, a ballet of batfish and manta
rays as well as sometimes up to 50 grey
sharks.
Fa'a Miti - 6-27m (20-90ft) This site
is accessible for all levels. You will be
dazzled by the multitude of corals, black
tip sharks, or a napoleon followed closely
by a swarm of small fish.
RAIATEA
The island offers a great wealth of
discoveries between the passes and
their surroundings or in the open sea.
The clarity of the water is exceptional. A
wild and authentic island with the most
unique fauna and marine flora in the world
Surprisingly, Taha’a shares its lagoon with
its sister island Raiatea because they are
originally one and the same island!
Our top two:
The Nordby Wreck - Lagoon, 8-24m
(25-80ft) Day or night, dive back to the
year of 1900 to observe the wreck of this
Danish three-masted ship that sailed
from Auckland to its port in Liverpool.
Numerous nudibranchs have taken
up residence here, and at night, the
experience is unforgettable.
Teava Piti Pass - Pass, 24m (0-80ft)
Considered as one of the most beautiful
drift dives of the Leeward Islands, you will
meet a multitude of species. A must do
86//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

Magic just seems to happen underwater here in Tahiti and her islands
TAHA’A
A wild and authentic island with the most
unique fauna and marine flora in the world
an exceptional feature, Taha’a shares
its lagoon with its sister island Raiatea
because they are originally one and the
same island!
Our top two:
Paipai Pass - Drift pass, 29m (95ft) This
is a dive recommended for trained divers.
You will reach cavities with many species
of sharks, including the very shy ma’o
mamaru (white tip lagoon sharks).
Ruutia, Tau Tau, Taputapu - Ocean/
reef, 40m (130ft) A site known for the
exceptional clarity of its waters up to 40
meters. The diving offers you a beautiful
diversity
BORA BORA
The diving conditions are optimal to learn
to dive. The lagoon of Bora Bora is home
to unforgettable dives with its coral reef
and a succession of motu with wonderful
white sand beaches
Our top two:
Anau - Ocean, 5-30m (15-100ft) Today,
diving centres are organized to protect this
site known for the presence of numerous
manta rays.
Tapu - Ocean, 9-37m (30-120ft) This is the
name of the motu which means islet and is
used to locate this dive on the slope of the
only pass of Bora Bora, Teavanui. The big
lemon sharks that reside
RANGIROA
One of the most abundant marine
biodiversity in the world, recognized as
one of the best places for exceptional
underwater encounters. In The Islands of
Tahiti, Rangiroa is the place where you
will have the most chances to observe
the great hammerhead shark, between
February and April.
Our top 2
P 2 Tiputa Pass - Pass, 12-46m (40-150ft)
This dive is known to be the meeting place
of bottlenose dolphins Tursiops truncatus,
wild sedentary dolphins that live in the
Tiputa pass right above a gathering of grey
sharks.
Avatora Pass - Pass, 15-21m (50-70ft)
In this pass, you will meet the tapete,
white finned reef sharks. A little further on
you will observe a huge school of jacks,
sometimes separated into two groups by
the intrusion of a raira, grey shark or a
Napoleon Wrasse.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//87

Fakarava and Rangiroa has some of the best shark diving in the world
FAKARAVA
Classified as a Biosphere Reserve by
UNESCO, Fakarava is a model of nature
reconciled with human development.
During the breeding season, from mid-
June to the beginning of July, you can
observe exceptionally large gatherings of
the small yet rare mottled loaches, divers
from all over the world travel here for this
rare experience.
Our top two:
Garuae Pass - Pass, 12-43m (40-140ft)
The largest in The Islands of Tahiti. The
show is always guaranteed whatever
the time of year Barracudas, loaches,
groupers, and rays live there with a
greater concentration during the full
moon.
Tetamanu Pass - Pass, 10-30m (32-
98ft) Often presented as the largest
concentration of grey sharks in the world,
the Tetamanu pass, or Tumakohua pass,
offers an unforgettable spectacle at the
end of the world.
TIKEHAU
Famous for its landscapes and the beauty
of its passes. Tikehau is considered as
the atoll with the largest concentration
of fish throughout the Tuamotu region
of Tahiti. The only pass of the island is
the gathering place for pelagic species
and promises to offer you beautiful
encounters.
Our top two:
The Tuheiva Pass - Pass, 8-23m (25-
75ft) Accessible for all levels. All the
reef fauna is represented: moray eels,
napoleon fish, barracudas and tunas are
frequent visitors. Every day, you will meet
a group of tapete (white tip lagoon shark).
Teonai - Ocean, 5-23m (15-75ft) All the
marine fauna of the Tuamotu Islands
is present in Teonai where you can
find lionfish, moray eels, napoleons,
surgeonfish, and white tip lagoon sharks.
The richest period of the year for marine
fauna is from October to December.
This is just a small selection of what
is on offer in the Islands of Tahiti. The
region is renowned for its shark diving
and whales, but it offers so much more.
Underwater marine life and fish of all
sorts are in abundance and with the many
professional dive operators, you can
experience this underwater magic setting
easily and safely.
For more information check out:
www.diving.tahititourisme.com
www.tahititourisme.nz
88//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233

*

t r a v e l
VANUATU
WELKAM BACK!!!
The first flight since Vanuatu reopened its borders to
international travellers landed in Port Vila on Friday 1st July
and from New Zealand on Saturday 2nd July, with visitors
now able to travel freely throughout the country’s islands and
provinces without any quarantine. The people of Vanuatu gave
the first visitors to make the trip the warmest of welcomes.
The sold-out Air Vanuatu flight from Sydney to Port Vila on the
1st July, carried Aussie guests eager to soak up the country’s
sunshine and enjoy its beautiful island chain. Guests were
also accompanied on the voyage by a VIP delegation including
Vanuatu’s Prime Minister, the Honourable Bob Loughman
Weibur. The flight from Auckland on Saturday 2nd July was
also sold out carrying a mix of RSE workers returning home
after lengthy stays in NZ and tourists many who had rebooked
their holidays that were planned before borders closed in
March 2020.
Upon arrival in Vanuatu, guests were welcomed with a water
salute, enjoyed a meet and greet with local cultural dancers
and were surprised with goodie bags packed with Vanuatu
Made gifts.
Vanuatu’s border has remained closed since March 2020,
due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The reopening signifies the
restarting of the country’s tourism industry, which is one of its
biggest economic drivers.
“Vanuatu’s tourism industry has been busy preparing for the
reopening, taking the time to upgrade or even introduce new
products to ensure guests have the best possible experience
upon arrival. Visitors will be greeted with a Vanuatu smile and
feel welcomed from the moment they touch down.”
Moorings Hotel Vanuatu Assistant Manager, Anita Tahi said,
“We’ve had two challenging years, but the team has kept
operations open and is ready and excited to welcome back
international visitors. Vanuatu has remained beautiful without
losing its happiness and authentic welcoming smiles and
today is an exciting day for everyone in the Vanuatu tourism
industry.”
Travellers can now enter Vanuatu with just a certified negative
RAT from within 24 hours of departure, or a certificate of
infection and recovery from within 28 days of travel.
Flights are available to book now, with Air Vanuatu resuming
its services with two non-stop flights from Auckland a week.
For more information on the reopening flight schedule, please
visit www.airvanuatu.com. Travellers are encouraged to check
the Vanuatu Tourism Office website for the latest information
and health directions prior to travel, as well as for inspiration
on visiting Vanuatu –www.vanuatu.travel/nz.
A new marketing campaign showcasing the best of Vanuatu’s
tourism offering has been launched ahead of the reopening
to urge New Zealanders to visit the archipelago. The new
Welkam Back! campaign encourages Kiwis to “Answer the
Call of Vanuatu” and visit the country to experience its array of
incredible moments.
“We are so happy this day has finally come,” said Vanuatu
Tourism Office CEO, Adela Issachar Aru. “Pre-COVID, New
Zealand was Vanuatu’s second largest inbound tourism market
and we have always shared a strong bond with our Kiwi
neighbours. Vanuatu is just a short flight from Auckland, yet it
feels like a world away. It’s the perfect getaway close to home.
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#233
watch
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXJhTZuY3Ow

10.00am Pentecost Island
Hiking Diving Culture
Volcanos
Go explore at vanuatu.travel

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