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The Fast Fashion Paradox & The Second Hand Solution | eBook

Gen Z eBook that uncovers why Gen Z are struggling to move away from fast fashion and the emerging opportunities that are allowing them to buy more sustainably.

Gen Z eBook that uncovers why Gen Z are struggling to move away from fast fashion and the emerging opportunities that are allowing them to buy more sustainably.

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STATE OF THE YOUTH NATION<br />

Gen Z<br />

<strong>The</strong> fast fashion paradox and<br />

the second hand solution<br />

Originally produced by YouthSight*<br />

SAVANTA.COM<br />

m a k e b e t t e r d e c i s i o n s


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Who are Gen Z<br />

in 2021?<br />

We describe Gen Z as the generation<br />

of young people born from 1995<br />

onwards.<br />

As of today (2022) the oldest are<br />

currently 26 years old.<br />

*This <strong>eBook</strong> was originally produced<br />

by the YouthSight team - who are<br />

now part of Savanta<br />

1


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

No other research agency<br />

knows more about Gen Z<br />

Our bespoke research is informed by<br />

exclusive tracking data from the UK's<br />

leading Gen Z insight tracker, State of<br />

the Youth Nation.<br />

<strong>Fast</strong> fashion and second hand shopping<br />

share a common audience in Gen Z.<br />

While it’s no secret that Gen Z are trying<br />

to save the world from climate change,<br />

they are still living their lives in pictures<br />

on social media, using fast fashion as a<br />

status symbol. <strong>Second</strong> hand shopping<br />

is a sustainable alternative to fast<br />

fashion, providing Gen Z with unique<br />

and affordable pieces.<br />

Savanta was born when eight best-in-class agencies, all specialists<br />

in their fields, joined forces to offer big agency benefits, while<br />

retaining a refreshingly boutique mindset.<br />

Since conception, we’ve expanded our sector expertise by adding<br />

more agencies to our family.<br />

<strong>The</strong> result? A full range of integrated intelligence services at global<br />

scale, married to deep sector, issue and methodological expertise,<br />

delivered with an entrepreneurial spirit and client-first mindset.<br />

All to help our clients. Make Better Decisions.<br />

2


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong> is disposable<br />

for Gen Z...<br />

According to Viva (2021), a whapping<br />

£2.7 billion is spent each year in the UK<br />

on outfits worn once before being<br />

discarded.<br />

23 % DID YOU KNOW...<br />

2 3 % o f G e n Z b u y<br />

a n i t e m a n d w e a r<br />

i t o n c e b e f o r e<br />

c h u c k i n g i t o u t<br />

Source: Vice, 2020<br />

3


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Gen Z live their lives in pictures; and fast<br />

fashion allows them to do so<br />

Gen Z have a do it for the ‘gram<br />

mentality. <strong>The</strong>y want to look like they<br />

are living their best lives on social<br />

media –it’s a status symbol.<br />

<strong>Fashion</strong> is a tool used by Gen Z to<br />

establish social currency.<br />

This has fuelled “wear it once” culture.<br />

Once you’ve posted an outfit on social<br />

media it can’t be posted again because<br />

it’s now too old –the likes and<br />

comments stop rolling in.<br />

<strong>Fast</strong> fashion enables Gen Z to switch up<br />

their style regularly, cheaply and quickly.<br />

DID YOU KNOW...<br />

I f y o u s e a r c h # O O T D<br />

o n I n s t a g r a m , w h i c h<br />

s t a n d s f o r o u t f i t o f<br />

t h e d a y , i t r e s u l t s i n<br />

4 1 2 m i l l i o n p o s t s .<br />

4


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

It's not surprising that fast<br />

fashion has boomed<br />

According to Pirkani (2021), clothing<br />

production in the UK has doubled<br />

since 2000 and two in five people<br />

have purchased something on a fast<br />

fashion website in the last month.<br />

Online retailers such as Boohoo made<br />

over £1.2 billion in revenue last year<br />

(Statista, 2022).<br />

asos<br />

Nasty<br />

Gal<br />

PRETTY<br />

LITTLE<br />

THING<br />

5


G E N Z U N L I K E L Y C O U P L I N G<br />

And brands are making their<br />

clothes more readily available to<br />

Gen Z in a few ways…<br />

Slashing prices - take Missguided’s infamous<br />

£1 bikini for example -it was a loss-making<br />

promotional item designed to draw Gen Z in.<br />

Flexibility of payment - financial services like<br />

Klarna and Clearpayare available on fast<br />

fashion sites, giving cash-strapped Gen Zthe<br />

option to buy more and pay back over a period<br />

of time or pay later.<br />

Convenience fashion - with many fast fashion<br />

retailers offering next day delivery from as<br />

little as £5.99 a year, Gen Z can have almost<br />

instant access to fashion. This is perfect for<br />

the zero-effort generation.<br />

6


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

But fast fashion<br />

goes against Gen Z's<br />

core values<br />

Despite the popularity of fast fashion,<br />

Gen Z are conscious of its ethical<br />

impact. Backlash against the fast<br />

fashion industry is growing as it<br />

clashes with Gen Z’s high concern for<br />

the environment and the threat of<br />

climate change.<br />

Simply doubling the length of time we<br />

keep our clothes would cut emissions<br />

by 44% (Refinery29, 2020).<br />

Gen Z’s most important<br />

political issues (Top 5)<br />

38 %<br />

24%<br />

22%<br />

21%<br />

18%<br />

C L I M A T E C H A N G E<br />

M E N T A L H E A L T H<br />

H E A L T H C A R E<br />

C O S T O F L I V I N G<br />

C O R O N A V I R U S<br />

Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Gen Z are increasingly holding brands<br />

accountable to their ethical values<br />

Many Gen Z want to buy from companies<br />

that align with their ethical beliefs. We see<br />

from our data that it is females in<br />

particular, who would prefer to purchase<br />

from ethical companies despite also<br />

buying from fast fashion companies.<br />

I prefer to only buy products from companies that I<br />

believe are acting ethically FEMALES ONLY<br />

34%<br />

38%<br />

51%<br />

53%<br />

57%<br />

DID YOU KNOW...<br />

42%<br />

o f G e n Z w a n t t o b u y f r o m<br />

l a b e l s t h a t t h e y b e l i e v e<br />

a r e a c t i n g e t h i c a l l y<br />

Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />

2018<br />

2019 2020 2021 2022<br />

Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />

8


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Although Gen Z know they have<br />

options…<br />

54%<br />

of Gen Z feel bad<br />

about buying fast<br />

fashion clothes.<br />

Source: Vice x Snapchat, 2020<br />

54%<br />

of Gen Z say that<br />

money isn’t the issue<br />

–they’re happy to pay<br />

more for ethically<br />

sourced products<br />

Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />

...they still buy fast fashion


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

So how to square<br />

the circle?<br />

S u s t a i n a b l e<br />

s o l u t i o n s<br />

1


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Many fast fashion and high street<br />

brands are offering responsible options<br />

1. Sustainable lines<br />

<strong>The</strong>se give Gen Z the option to shop responsibly yet<br />

still use the same platforms/shops that they like and<br />

are used to -like ASOS and Zara for example.<br />

2. Recycling incentives<br />

Shops like H&M and Primark have rolled out schemes<br />

to get customers to bring in no-longer-worn clothes<br />

for them to recycle in return for vouchers.<br />

3. Sustainable first<br />

New brands are making sustainability a commitment<br />

to all their clothes, providing ethically sourced and<br />

recyclable products, such as Gen Z athleisure brand<br />

TALA.<br />

11


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

However, the ‘ethical’ attempts of some<br />

brands have backfired with Gen Z<br />

Greenwashing is when a company sells<br />

itself or its products as good for the<br />

environment and eco-friendly, however<br />

once you scratch beneath the surface it<br />

becomes quite clear that this is marketing<br />

spin.<br />

Gen Z’s scepticism of companies has fed<br />

into ‘Cancel Culture’ which is increasingly<br />

holding brands accountable. In fact 40% of<br />

Gen Z have boycotted a brand because<br />

they didn’t agree with their values (State of<br />

the Youth Nation, 2022). So, where does<br />

this leave Gen Z and their shopping<br />

habits?<br />

@DANAHWA<br />

@_AVAZAN_<br />

Some brands need to realise<br />

that no amount of<br />

greenwashing or long-winded<br />

or long-winded social<br />

responsibility mission<br />

statement is going to disguise<br />

the fact they're still selling<br />

badly made, unnecessary<br />

clothes."<br />

Also sustainable fashion is<br />

often just marketed as such!!<br />

Any research into many brands<br />

(H&M 'conscious' etc.) reveals<br />

massive ecological and<br />

humanitarian failures.<br />

Greenwashing at it's finest!"<br />

12


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

<strong>Second</strong>-hand is a<br />

sustainable solution<br />

<strong>Second</strong>-hand is an affordable solution<br />

for Gen Z and provides them with<br />

unique pieces.<br />

Sustainable fashion lines are less<br />

affordable than traditional fast<br />

fashion, and may just push Gen Z<br />

back towards fast fashion.<br />

DID YOU KNOW...<br />

O v e r a t h i r d o f<br />

G e n Z s a y<br />

t h e i r t r u s t i n<br />

c o m p a n i e s i s<br />

a t a n a l l t i m e<br />

l o w .<br />

T h i s h a s<br />

i n c r e a s e d<br />

f r o m a q u a r t e r<br />

s i n c e 2 0 1 6 .<br />

Source: State of the<br />

Youth Nation, 2022<br />

<strong>Second</strong>-hand shopping provides Gen<br />

Z with a middle ground between<br />

trying to be more sustainable yet not<br />

breaking the bank.<br />

It also still allows them to<br />

experiment with their style, having<br />

rare, vintage or one-of-a-kind items.<br />

13


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

In fact, young people have<br />

already begun to drive the<br />

solution forward<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are the driving force of the growth of<br />

second-hand shopping, adopting second-hand<br />

apparel 2.5x faster than other age groups<br />

(Forbes, 2020).<br />

6%<br />

Given the choice, where would you prefer to<br />

shop? <strong>Second</strong>-hand/charity shops<br />

10%<br />

16%<br />

17%<br />

DID YOU KNOW...<br />

7 % o f G e n Z<br />

c u r r e n t l y b u y m o s t<br />

o f t h e i r b e l o n g i n g s<br />

f r o m<br />

c h a r i t y / s e c o n d -<br />

h a n d s h o p s<br />

Source: State of the Youth Nation 2022<br />

2018 2019 2020<br />

2021<br />

Source: State of the Youth Nation, 2022<br />

14


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Thanks to innovative platforms, secondhand<br />

clothing has been reinvented<br />

Gone are the days of trawling dusty charity shop for clothes. Apps and online e-tailers<br />

like Depop, Vestiaire and Vinted have overhauled the second-hand image, where cool<br />

clothes are easily accessible.<br />

90 % D E P O P U S E R S U N D E R 2 6 Y O<br />

Source: Depop, 2022<br />

With over 26 million users worldwide, Depop<br />

has won over Gen Z by offering a place to<br />

buy and sell that looks just like Instagram.<br />

It’s not just a marketplace, it’s a community<br />

of creatives, with many sellers able to make<br />

their Depop shop a full-time job.<br />

Vestiaire Collective has established<br />

a platform for the second-hand<br />

luxury market -a win-win for Gen Z,<br />

having access to designer labels<br />

within a sustainable cycle.<br />

DID YOU KNOW...<br />

V e s t i a i r e C o l l e c t i v e ’ s<br />

t r a n s a c t i o n v o l u m e<br />

d o u b l e d i n 2 0 2 0 c o m p a r e d<br />

t o 2 0 1 9 a n d t h e c o m p a n y<br />

i s n o w v a l u e d a t $ 1 . 7 b n<br />

Source: <strong>The</strong> Crunch, 2021<br />

15


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

What does this tell<br />

us about Gen Z?<br />

Gen Z are paradoxical –they have conflicting<br />

wants and desires. In the short term, they<br />

want easily accessible unique pieces to<br />

wear and gain social status. Yet in the<br />

longer term, they want to help tackle climate<br />

change.<br />

For this generation, everything is about easy<br />

access. Although accessibility to second<br />

hand items has improved using tech, e.g.<br />

Depop, buying a whole outfit is not fast. <strong>Fast</strong><br />

fashion platforms on the other hand are<br />

effortless.<br />

16


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

What does this tell<br />

us about Gen Z?<br />

<strong>Second</strong> hand shopping delivers Gen Z’s<br />

desire for brands and unique stuff. <strong>The</strong> apps<br />

are usually peer-to-peer, which makes them<br />

relevant and cool. Yet to really make a<br />

change, Gen Z need to reject the wear-itonce<br />

culture which buying second hand<br />

does not address directly.<br />

Gen Z don’t follow the crowd-the popularity<br />

of second hand shopping and its unique<br />

pieces tells us that they don’t want to look<br />

the same as everyone else. <strong>The</strong>y want to<br />

find their own sense of style while at the<br />

same time not standing out too much.<br />

17


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Want to<br />

learn more?<br />

Book a demo<br />

A State of the Youth Nation subscription helps leading<br />

brands make better youth market decisions.<br />

Our tracking product will equip you with the tools to<br />

better engage with young people, and put the drivers that<br />

shape their worlds at the heart of your team's youth<br />

market decisions.<br />

Annual subscription gives you instant access to:<br />

Latest Gen Z insights - Be better prepared with the<br />

most up-to-date tracking data (nat rep)<br />

Regular webinars - Who is Gen Z? How to get cut<br />

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1


T H E F A S T F A S H I O N P A R A D O X<br />

Subscribe today<br />

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<br />

Find out more:<br />

youth.practice@savanta.com<br />

Book a demo<br />

1


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company that helps busisnesses make better decisions.<br />

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