NetJets US Summer 2022

ISLE OF PLENTY
Corfu offers a sense
of glorious escapism
RENAISSANCE MAN
Bill Bishop has
talents to spare
CITY OF TASTE
Lisbon’s burgeoning
culinary credentials
IN HIS SIGHT
James Chen’s mission
is truly visionary
SCOTLAND’S PRIDE
The home of golf
gets an upgrade

TAKING OFF
MANY OF US ARE FAMILIAR with the sound of a golf club striking
a golf ball for the first time in the season—it’s the sound of summer.
For this edition, our editors go beyond the golf swing, highlighting
the best shoes and wedges to create consistency and comfort on
the course. Add in sunshine and an open fairway and you’re in for
—hopefully—a rewarding game.
Additionally, this issue of our magazine is an exhibit of exploration and enjoyment.
Our editors take us to sun-drenched Corfu, as well as Lisbon (home, of course, to NetJets’
European headquarters), for some of the newest culinary destinations. We hear from
Stanford neuroscientist Dr. Andrew Huberman on how to retrain our brains by tapping into
neuroplasticity. And we showcase two ways the NetJets Owner experience is evolving:
our new Crewmember uniforms and our transoceanic flagship aircraft—the Global 7500.
We also introduce you to my friend and our longtime customer Bill Bishop. Bill spent years
perfecting several businesses and is perhaps most well-known for the pet food brand Blue
Buffalo. Now he’s working to perfect his golf game. Check out his story and more on the
NetJets Owner experience.
Whether your summer is spent on the golf course or at your favorite vacation destination,
we look forward to being part of your exceptional travel experiences.
Adam Johnson
Chairman and CEO
C O N T R I B U T O R S
IVAN CARVALHO
The U.S.-born
journalist heads
west across
Europe from his
home in Italy to
sample The Lure
of Lisbon (page
62), experiencing
the revolution that
is underway in the
Portuguese capital’s
burgeoning foodand-drink
scene.
GUERIN BLASK
Used to capturing
big personalities,
the New York
photographer
was the perfect
man to shoot Bill
Bishop, the serial
entrepreneur behind
Blue Buffalo pet
food and SoBe
beverages for our
profile, Across the
Board (page 30).
JOSH SIMS
In Changing
Priorities (page
10), the English
writer learns about
philanthropist
James Chen’s
efforts to deal with
the problems of
impaired vision in
developing countries
and the remarkable
progress that is
being made.
JIM CLARKE
The wine expert
travels to the Golden
State for California
Dreaming (page
70) to meet Eric
Jensen, whose
modest ambition
to grow grapes in
Paso Robles has
flourished into
one of the most
interesting vineyards
on the West Coast.
JEN MURPHY
Healthy brain,
healthy body
discovers the
Colorado-based
fitness writer. She
investigates the
best ways to avoid
mental fatigue and
improve your quality
of life at home and
on the move in
Rewiring the Mind
(page 42)
This symbol throughout the magazine denotes the nearest airport served by NetJets to the
story’s subject, with approximate distances in miles where applicable.
4 NetJets

CONTENTS
6 NetJets

PARADISE ISLE
Domes Miramare, a Luxury
Collection Resort, Corfu,
page 50.
42 62 34 64
SIGHT FOR SORE EYES
James Chen’s Clearly
project is improving vision
in developing countries
pages 10-13
IN THE NEWS
Cultural happenings,
the finest spirits, and
automobiles of desire
pages 14-25
NETJETS UPDATE
A new-look uniform, latest
events, the Global 7500,
and staff in profi le
pages 26-29
CHANGING LANES
Bill Bishop made his name—
and fortune—with a versatile
approach to life
pages 30-33
NEW CALEDONIA
Scotland’s traditional
golfing landscape has
undergone a makeover
pages 34-41
MIND MATTERS
Looking after the brain
helps the body—and there
are plenty of ways to do so
pages 42-49
RETURN TO SPLENDOR
Favored by royals and
stars, Corfu is recapturing
its glamorous past
pages 50-57
ALL-COURT GAME
This season’s stylish
watches complement
a summer of activity
pages 58-61
LISBON DINING
The Portuguese capital is
adding to its allure with a
raft of culinary highlights
pages 62-69
TALES OF THE VINE
Raising the profile of
one of California’s most
exciting wine regions
pages 70-73
WAY OUT WEST
An inside view of The
Museum of Contemporary
Art San Diego
pages 74-81
THE LAST WORD
Tennis superstar
Rafael Nadal on his life
away from the court
page 82
© DOMES MIRAMARE, ALEX TEUSCHER, HAYLEY KELSING, © WILDLAND
7

NETJETS, THE MAGAZINE
SUMMER 2022
FRONT COVER
Porto Timoni Beach,
Corfu (See page 50).
Image by Matteo Barlascini
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Thomas Midulla
EDITOR
Farhad Heydari
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Anne Plamann
PHOTO DIRECTOR
Martin Kreuzer
ART DIRECTOR
Anja Eichinger
MANAGING EDITOR
John McNamara
SENIOR EDITOR
Brian Noone
STAFF WRITER
Claudia Whiteus
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR
Vicki Reeve
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
Albert Keller
SEPARATION
Jennifer Wiesner
WRITERS, CONTRIBUTORS,
PHOTOGRAPHERS, AND
ILLUSTRATORS
Guerin Blask, Ivan Carvalho,
Jim Clarke, Jörn Kaspuhl,
Alexander Lobrano, Heidi
Mitchell, Jen Murphy,
Julian Rentzsch, Josh Sims,
Elisa Vallata
Published by JI Experience
GmbH Hanns-Seidel-Platz 5
81737 Munich, Germany
GROUP PUBLISHER
Christian Schwalbach
Michael Klotz (Associate)
ADVERTISING SALES
U.S.
Jill Stone
jstone@bluegroupmedia.com
Eric Davis
edavis@bluegroupmedia.com
EUROPE
Katherine Galligan
katherine@metropolist.co.uk
Vishal Raguvanshi
vishal@metropolist.co.uk
NetJets, The Magazine is
the offi cial title for Owners
of NetJets in the U.S.
NetJets, The Magazine
is published quarterly by
JI Experience GmbH on
behalf of NetJets Inc.
NetJets Inc.
4151 Bridgeway Avenue
Columbus, Ohio 43219,
USA
netjets.com
+1 614 338 8091
Copyright © 2022
by JI Experience GmbH. All rights
reserved. Reproduction in whole or
in part without the express written
permission of the publisher is strictly
prohibited. The publisher, NetJets
Inc., and its subsidiaries or affi liated
companies assume no responsibility
for errors and omissions and are
not responsible for unsolicited
manuscripts, photographs, or artwork.
Views expressed are not necessarily
those of the publisher or NetJets Inc.
Information is correct at time of
going to press.
8 NetJets

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COURTESY JAMES CHEN
GOODWILL
Changing Priorities
Correcting eyesight doesn’t just improve lives on
the margins, but makes real, substantive difference
to health, education, productivity, and more. For two
decades, James Chen has worked to bring impaired
vision to the forefront—and his quest is finally
opening eyes across global institutions. // By Josh Sims
JAMES CHEN HAS LEARNED TO SEE his life’s work
with equal parts perspective and humor. “Now
I’m part of the establishment, when before I
was the outsider. It used to be a matter of ‘Who
is this idiot with more money than brains who
thinks he can do what we know can’t be done,’
right? And later it was ‘Oh, actually you do know
something after all,’” he laughs.
Chen is a Hong Kong-based venture capitalist.
But he’s also—following the work of his father
Robert Yet-Sen Chen, founder of The Chen
Yet-Sen Family Foundation—a philanthropist,
though not of the more typical variety. He has
spent the past 20 years focused on bringing to
the fore the long-underappreciated issue of clear
vision—literally, through access to spectacles—
such that last July his efforts were validated
through a unanimous UN Resolution, “Vision for
Everyone,” committing member states to just that.
With statistics suggesting that some 500 million
children could be living with myopia by 2050—
impacting literacy and, by turns, escape from
poverty—it’s neither a small problem nor one
that’s going away.
“A lot of philanthropists are more donors or
patrons, putting their names on buildings or
writing checks for the latest emergency. And
if others pursue [a philanthropic project] for
three to five years that’s considered long-term.
They’re held back by ideas of the mainstream
norms,” reckons Chen, who became aware of
what had likely been his longstanding need
for glasses only when, as a youth, he started
taking driving lessons. “But actually to make
a real impact, studies show a philanthropic
project takes more than a decade, sometimes
two, and a big bet. For me, the real definition
of philanthropy is to take a journey to see
if you can solve one of the many seemingly
intractable problems facing society.”
If that sounds like a bold claim, Chen isn’t
remotely awkward about it. When he told his wife
he could get glasses to perhaps a million myopic
people in a country like Ghana, she asked him
if that wasn’t enough. Sure, he said, he saw her
point, but he was also all too conscious of that
leaving an estimated 2.19 billion people around
the world still with blurry vision.
10 NetJets

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GOODWILL
ULTIMATE VISION
The simple act of providing glasses can
make a difference in communities from
increasing tea-picking productivity to
enabling education.
SARAH DAY SMITH (2)
This relentless ambition means that Chen
has achieved much already for his somewhat
unfashionable and misunderstood cause: from
backing the invention of glasses with adjustable
liquid-filled lenses, through to the rolling out
of a nationwide vision improvement program,
and, perhaps most fundamentally, getting
government and intergovernmental agencies to
fully appreciate the importance of good eyesight.
His Vision for a Nation and Clearly campaigns
have—by increments, and with many rebuffs
and hard lessons along the way—pulled off
what many in the community of eyesight NGOs
said was a pipe dream. One might say he
revealed their own short-sightedness.
Indeed, he’s come to the conclusion that it
is precisely because he is neither government
agency nor NGO that he should think big. He
calls it “moonshot philanthropy,” echoing the
widely doubted scale of ambition that saw the
Kennedy administration in 1961 announce it
“should commit itself to achieving the goal,
before this decade is out, of landing a man on
the Moon.”
“The real takeaway is that, actually, it’s we
in the high-net-worth community that are in a
unique position to drive real impact. Institutions
or corporates are agents for the ultimate owners of
capital, whether they’re taxpayers or shareholders.
But philanthropists own their own capital; that
means when you try things and there are failures
it’s much easier for us to absorb the cost. That’s
our superpower,” enthuses Chen.
“If you’re an employee of, say, USAID or
Unilever, when you make a decision to support
a risky, innovative program and it fails, it’s hard
to explain that to your boss or donors, taxpayers
or shareholders, because they don’t have the
context as to why that decision needed to be
made,” he adds. “But when you’re the owner
of capital you can take on things that can seem
super risky. We can privatize the failures and
socialize the successes.”
It is, he admits, perhaps not quite as
simple as that for him, as it might be for other
philanthropists. As Chen graciously concedes,
he didn’t make his family’s money; he’s more
the steward of it. “What Elon Musk is doing with
Twitter, nobody is going to begrudge him that,”
Chen explains. “But as a steward of capital, and
especially a third-generation steward—with that
proverb regarding going ‘from shirtsleeves to
shirtsleeves in three generations’—that’s always
a personal challenge. It’s not just a financial risk
but one of reputation.”
And he stresses—it’s a good tip for aspiring
philanthropists—one thing that has sustained his
enthusiasm for this single cause for two decades
is that he’s been able to take an intimate
interest. “I mean, intellectually, I get issues like
climate change. But they’re not personal to me,”
Chen admits. “[In contrast] I can put my own
glasses on and suddenly everything is clear and
I can do things I couldn’t otherwise do, so [I’m
reminded to ask] if there are so many people
with the same condition as me, how come they
don’t have access to such a simple solution too?”
But that ability both to absorb the knockbacks
and also to learn from them and achieve what
Chen refers to as “domain expertize” is crucial to
challenging the orthodoxy. Eyesight NGOs had,
for example, long proclaimed that a campaign
such as Chen’s Vision for a Nation—setting out
to provide universal eye care to all of Rwanda’s
15,000 villages—wasn’t feasible. But Chen
believed their model was just wrong. And WHO
would come to agree with him.
“If we [in well-off nations] have an eye
problem we go to the local mall, get our eyes
tested by an expert, and they’ll sell you glasses
right away. That works fine in a high-resource
environment like ours, so they [the NGOs]
concluded that it couldn’t work in a low-resource
environment, because you can’t easily train
optometrists and so on,” he explains. “That’s
why what we did in Rwanda—in just three
12 NetJets

days training nurses to a sufficient standard to
screen vision—was such a radical change in the
model. It works precisely because it doesn’t aim
at perfection but offers something that is good
enough. It offers some relief for most people.”
As for the affordability of glasses, again,
contrary to received wisdom, the simple step
of priming the market was enough. Chen’s
foundation supplied basic spectacles, knowing
that as a proportion of income to provide the
kind of product sold to first-world markets
was a non-starter for 99% of those in need.
The foundation quickly saw that such was
the profound quality-of-life change afforded
to customers by even these that they quickly
recalibrated the value of glasses and invested in
better pairs.
But it was in moving from such grassroots
work to getting global institutions to think
differently that the really disheartening
difficulties arose. For instance, he found that
his enthusiasm for adjustable lens spectacles—
affordable, distributable, functional and, he
believed, “a real game-changer”—wasn’t shared
by many of those in positions of influence. He
created a flashy eyecare summit that, it turned
out, few movers and shakers seemed interested
in attending. Perhaps most surprisingly, he
pitched his campaign to the World Bank and
was met only with puzzlement, despite the
gatekeepers who sat on the panel all wearing
glasses themselves.
“We realized then that the task was to get
the world to understand that [poor vision] isn’t
just some narrow, low-priority issue in the health
sector. And, of course, if you’re in the Ministry
of Health, someone with blurry vision doesn’t
feel that important when you’re tackling the
problem of people dying of AIDS or malaria,”
explains Chen. “So it’s been about shifting
understanding of vision, reframing the thinking
to show that if, as a world, we want to achieve
the 17 sustainable development goals [set by
the United Nations], at least six of them can’t be
done if there are still billions of people out there
with blurry vision. You have to correct that first
before you have a chance of achieving these
other goals.”
Yet that reframing came with another
revelation for Chen, too, one regarding how
the development world really works. It’s not
enough to demonstrate a quality-of-life benefit
to individuals. That has to be parlayed into
a nationwide productivity gain. Quite how to
evidence that wasn’t apparent to Chen and his
team in the early years of his campaign. He cites
the instance of road traffic accidents being the
biggest killer of under-30s in Africa—it would
seem that driving without glasses for correction
is likely to contribute to that statistic, but that
isolating vision from other factors, everything
from the driving test regimen to the quality of the
cars, is no easy task.
Yet his campaign did commission a study—of
the gold standard, controlled, peer-reviewed kind
incredibly hard to manage for social issues —of
tea pickers in India, in which half were given
their first pair of cheap reading glasses, and the
other half not. The result? Workers with glasses
picked around 11 lbs more tea each day than
those without. People have to be able to see
to do—not just to work, but to read, to travel,
to cook, to care for children. Other, similar
studies have since followed with the intention of
reinforcing this evidential base. Is the demand
for such evidence a sad indictment of society’s
fixation on the abstract health of the economy
over the personal health of its citizens? Chen
doesn’t think so. At least, not entirely.
“When AIDS was raging the reaction was,
‘Oh, this is sad, but there’s nothing we can do.’
Until, that is, there was research regarding how
the productivity of gold miners in South Africa
fell when they got AIDS, and then it’s ‘Oh my
god, we have to fix this!’,” Chen says. “But, of
course, there are always limited resources and
limited bandwidth. If you’re in the Ministry of
Health you know there are 170 things that you
need to do to help your people but also that the
reality is they somehow need to be prioritized—
and that in the next five or 10 years you’ll
be lucky to make progress on the first three.
So how do you choose those three? Helping
to improve GDP, the material wealth of often
desperately poor people, well, that’s a good goal.
Yes, corrected vision improves quality of life. But
the unsaid thing society cares about is that it
improves your life so you can be productive.”
The reverse might well be said of Chen
himself, that, with inherited money to play
with, he has found being productive is what
has improved his life. His campaigns for vision
have, he says, kept him young, and allowed him
to rise each morning with a sense of purpose.
It may have taken a long haul, but his is an
achievement of which he should rightly be
proud. Yet he hesitates to use that word.
“There’s a satisfaction in having done
something that people recognized was so
difficult. But we as a family feel we get so
much from giving. And for me personally it’s
a moral obligation,” he says. “I’ve done things
very differently [from] my father, but in a way
it’s still very much an extension of the way he
approached philanthropy. That’s not just about
the money but putting in the time and effort in
figuring out how to have an impact.
“If we can show that [this is possible] to
younger generations then that’s an important
good for the high-net-worth community too,”
Chen adds. “As parents, we tend to say, ‘You
should do this’ and children reply, ‘But you
don’t,’ right? So you have to both talk the talk
and walk the walk. And, you know, it’s all very
grounding. Doing this kind of philanthropic work
opens your eyes.” jameschen.vision
NetJets
13

THE SMART GUIDE
An update on the world of culture heads our
collection of the latest, the best, and the brightest.
IWAN BAAN
OPEN SEASON
The world’s cultural scene is blossoming again with a raft of galleries, museum,
and art spaces debuting around the world. // By John McNamara
THE SPIRIT OF REJUVENATION in post-pandemic times has not
been lost on the art world, with some spectacular new openings
happening around the globe. In the U.S. alone, past, present, and
future are all represented in the latest offerings: the Museum of
Broadway in New York is an interactive experience celebrating all
things theatrical; In Miami, the sense of adventure and wonder is
generated by ReefLine, an underwater sculpture park, where the
works are displayed alongside coral and endangered marine life.
And in Seattle, the world’s first museum dedicated to NFTs (nonfungible
tokens) opened its doors in January.
Across the Atlantic in Europe, there’s plenty of ingenuity on
show, too. Perhaps no debut embraces the ambitious nature
more than Plateforme 10 (plateforme10.ch), in the hilly Swiss
town of Lausanne on the banks of Lake Geneva. It’s less an arts
14 NetJets

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THE SMART GUIDE
Perhaps no debut embraces the ambition
more than Plateforme 10 in Lausanne.
center than an arts neighborhood, where the trio of museums
are surrounded by a fresh selection of restaurants, bookshops,
and arcades. The artists still take priority, of course, at mudac
(Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts), Photo
Elysée, and the latest to open, MCBA, (the Cantonal Museum of
Fine Arts). And while all will reach out in different directions—
and have very individual exhibitions, ongoing and planned—as
this impressive project near Lausanne’s central station launches,
railways provides the central theme for a joint inaugural show.
“Train Zug Treno Tren” (until 25 September), will run across all
three spaces. Railway-inspired works by the likes of Giorgio de
Chirico, Edward Hopper, and Paul Delvaux feature at the MCBA,
while the other two spaces will cover themes of early rail travel
and platform reunions.
Farther north in Norway, Oslo’s long-awaited National
Museum (nasjonalmuseet.no) is finally open. It’s a celebration
of Scandinavian art, combining four collections into one new
building. The foyer immediately makes an impression with
a tapestry of 400 polished reindeer skulls by Máret Ánne
Sara, an artist from the Sámi people of northern Norway,
Sweden, and Finland. The country’s most famous artist,
Edvard Munch, is well represented in the main collection,
but the first exhibition held in these hallowed halls, “I Call
It Art” (until September 11), looks at the contemporary
scene. The selection of works by almost 150 artists and
collectives questions the nature of the relationship between the
establishment and alternative cultures, and just who is on the
inside of the art world.
HSUAN LANG LIN
16 NetJets

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THE SMART GUIDE
ART IN VOGUE
Clockwise from right: Kunsthalle
Praha, Prague; Plateforme 10,
Lausanne; the Museum of
the Future, Dubai.
Previous page: Tapei
Performing Arts Center.
Opening page: The National
Museum of Norway, Oslo.
Equally intriguing, the Kunsthalle Praha (kunsthallepraha.
org) debuted recently in a former electrical substation in the
Czechia capital’s center. As well as the three gallery spaces, the
60,000 square feet of the Kunsthalle also incorporate a shop,
bistro, and café, while its enviable location offers easy access
to Prague’s other cultural highlights, such as the nearby Franz
Kafka Museum, and offers panoramas of the castle. While the
opening exhibition, “Kinetismus: 100 Years of Electricity in Art,”
marked the space’s previous life, the latest pays tribute to a major
figure in Czech art. “Midnight of Art: Ways of Collecting” (until
September 30) brings together works assembled by the curator
and entrepreneur Karel Babíček, who built one of the first private
galleries in Prague inspired by the New York model.
IF THE BUILDINGS in Oslo and Prague are somewhat prosaic
compared to the treasures that lie within, the same cannot be
said for the Taipei Performing Arts Center (tpac-taipei.org), in
the Taiwanese capital’s Shilin Night Market. The remarkable
FILIP ŠLAPAL
CATHERINE LEUTENEGGER
orbed façade projects out over the street, and inwards to three
distinct spaces—the central Globe Playhouse, which will
seat 800 people, flanked either side by the Grand Theater
(which will hold 1,600) and the 840-seat Blue Box. Pritzker
Architecture Prize-winner Rem Koolhaas is the man behind the
spectacular design. The Dutchman, who is slated to design the
first Pompidou Center in North America, based in New Jersey,
wanted to make a contribution to the history of theater, getting
away from contemporary spaces that are “increasingly becoming
standardized, with conservative internal operation principles.”
Initial impressions are that he seems to have succeeded.
Challenging conceptions in the world of the arts is something
that has come naturally to the UAE in recent years and Dubai
has upped the ante further with the opening of the Museum
of the Future (museumofthefuture.ae), which promises to let
visitors “see, touch, and shape our shared future. Go on a journey
through possible futures and bring hope and knowledge back to
the present.”
It’s an experience housed in a remarkable building. Standing at
256-feet tall in the Emirates’s Financial District, the outside of the
structure by Killa Design and Buro Happold is covered in Arabic
writing, while inside exhibition spaces on innovative ideologies,
services, and products, are joined by theater spaces, a laboratory,
and a research center.
A glimpse of the future, maybe, but also symbolic of the
burgeoning art and culture scene that continues to thrive
and surprise.
© MOTF
GENEVA AIRPORT TO PLATEFORME 10: 38 miles; OSLO AIRPORT TO NATIONAL
MUSEUM: 32 miles; PRAGUE AIRPORT TO KUNSTHALLE PRAHA: 7 miles; TAIWAN
TAOYUAN AIRPORT TO TAIPEI PERFORMING ARTS CENTER: 25 miles; DUBAI
AIRPORT TO MUSEUM OF THE FUTURE: 7 miles
18 NetJets

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THE SMART GUIDE
Raising the Bar
A new distillery, tantalizing elixirs, and automotive-themed
whiskys are among the latest developments in the spirits world.
GROWING UP
EMPHASIZING ITS BURGEONING reputation as a spirit producer of note, Scapegrace Distilling Company is building
the largest distillery in its native New Zealand. Already exporting its award-winning gin and vodka to more than
40 countries, the premises will provide a launchpad for a new single malt whisky. The 90-acre site will partially
open in August. The whole complex, which is located in Otago on the South Island, with outstanding views
of the Bendigo mountains, will become a gourmet destination in its own right when completed in fall 2023.
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reflects the power and beauty of the seven seas in a release of only 1,997 bottles. malts.com // 2 THE MACALLAN DISTIL YOUR WORLD NEW YORK A celebration of the
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malt. themacallan.com // 3 GIN D’AZUR A product of the sun, master distiller Paul Caris captures the essence of the Côte d’Azur in this “sipping” gin full of juniper,
lavender, thyme, marjoram, star anise, and rosemary, all grown in the South of France. gindazur.com // 4 COTSWOLDS DISTILLERY, HEARTS AND CRAFTS RUM CASK
SINGLE MALT Aged in rejuvenated French oak ex-red wine casks seasoned with fine Caribbean rum, the latest in the Shipston-on-Stour distillery’s art-and-crafts-themed
collection comes with a William Morris-designed presentation case. cotswoldsdistillery.com // 5 THE SPIRIT OF GEORGE A collaboration between a small British firm, The
Big Hill Distillery and world-renowned grocers Fortnum & Mason, this gin commemorates the feats of mountaineering pioneer George Mallory, with ingredients sourced in
the Himalayas. bighilldistillery.com // 6 LOCH LOMOND 46 YEAR OLD Just 200 bottles of this rare whiskey are available from the Highland distillery, created in its unique
straight-neck stills that allow its master craftsmen to carefully shape the character of the whisky at the point of distillation. lochlomondwhiskies.com // 7 THE YAMAZAKI
TSUKURIWAKE SELECTION A quartet of single malts, each of which marks one of the four central types of Japan’s original whisky distillery—puncheon, peated malt,
Spanish oak, and mizunara. suntory.com.
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE COMPANIES
20 NetJets

FIRST AMONG EQUALS
Comprising eight incredible single malt whiskies, the third release of Prima & Ultima is drawn from Diageo’s finest distilleries across Scotland.
Master blender Dr. Craig Wilson was charged with selecting the octet, with The Singleton of Glen Ord, Talisker, Lagavulin and, for the first time,
both Brora and Port Ellen featuring. Dr. Wilson has a personal involvement in the latter two, as he played a fundamental role in the restoration
of the Brora spirit and has overseen new releases from Port Ellen. There is a royal connection as well, as the last ever Port Ellen 1980 cask,
selected here, was filled in the year Queen Elizabeth II visited the distillery’s maltings. theprimaandultimacollection.com
FAST LANE
Former Formula One world champion
Jenson Button has teamed up with
whisky writer and consultant George
Koutsakis to launch Coachbuilt,
a blend that takes in some of
the finest specimens from five
Scottish regions—Islay, Speyside,
Campbeltown, Highlands and
Lowlands—matured in premium
sherry casks. coachbuiltwhisky.com
A PERFECT BALANCE
Presented in a futuristic “vessel” by Aston Martin,
ARC-52, a vintage whisky from Bowmore, has
been aged for over half a century in American oak
hogshead and European oak butt casks to provide a
complex flavor to match its exuberant design. Only
100 decanters will be made available. bowmore.com
NetJets
21

PRIVATE PARADISE
IN GREECE
Nested on a gorgeous private sandy beach, Porto Zante Villas & Spa on
the Greek Island of Zakynthos is an award-winning hideaway of worldclass
villas, considered to be the most private beach resort in Europe at the
moment and offering unique experiences for families and couples alike.
Porto Zante Villas & Spa
Selected as one of the 34 Ultraluxe Resorts in the World by Virtuoso for
2022 and one of the World’s Best Hotels & Resorts for 2020 by Condé
Nast Traveller’s Gold List, Porto Zante Villas & Spa is a wonderfully discreet
hideaway, choice of famous clientele from all over the world. A member
of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this private beachfront paradise,
located on the magical Greek Island of Zakynthos, has perfected the merging
of finest personal services, exclusive open-air facilities and bespoke activities,
satisfying even the most discerning guest. Escape to one of its nine worldclass
beachfront villas.
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
Call +30 210 8218640 or +44 (0)20 8882 6767, email reservations@portozante.com or visit portozante.com

HOW TO REACH
Escape to Porto Zante Villas & Spa in under two
hours from most major European cities either by
private jet or via one of the direct non-stop flights
to Zakynthos island during the summer.
WORLD-CLASS VILLAS
Imagine your own private beachfront estate,
nestled between the magnificent natural beauty
of lush tropical gardens, azure skies and set on a
serene turquoise sea. Nine stunning world-class
villas are built amphitheatrically over a secluded
sandy beach and boast private heated pools and
stunning views of the Ionian Sea, creating an
escape in the truest sense of the word. Inside these
super-luxe havens, selected Armani/Casa and
Kettal/Gervasoni furniture add to the laidback
glamorous aesthetic; the divine marble bathrooms
are equipped with Bulgari guest amenities, while
cutting-edge technology is represented by Bang &
Olufsen entertainment systems and iMac desktops.
BESPOKE EXPERIENCES
In case you wish to emerge from your private cocoon
and the 24-hour in-villa dining service – ideally
complementing the Club House Greek & Mediterranean
Restaurant and the Maya Contemporary Asian
Restaurant – an array of luxury experiences and fun
activities for adults and children awaits. Delicious dining
in one of the resort’s open-air restaurants, private training
in the resorts’ Gym by Technogym, yoga sessions on the
tip of the water, both motorised and non-motorised
water sports for all ages, private yacht excursions, to the
famed Navagio beach, Marathonisi protected area for
the caretta sea turtles, or local landscapes like Ancient
Olympia, birthplace of Olympic Games, sample fine
wines at the local vineyard, or – naturally – a signature
zen spa treatment. Awarded Greece’s Leading Hotel Spa,
the Waterfront Spa is situated in front of the cobalt waters
of the Ionian Sea and excels in over 20 therapies inspired
by Greek nature. And while parents unwind under the
care of experienced therapists, the staff at the Kids’ Club
oversees children’s entertainment and organises fun
activities. It is all dedicated to fun!

THE SMART GUIDE
Star Cars
The latest attractions on four wheels are a welcome mix
of old-school style and state-of-the-art tech.
LAND ROVER
DEFENDER 130
As imposing a presence as always, the
Defender 130 is the largest in Land
Rover’s lineup, following on from the
90 and 110. With room for an extra
row of seats, the 130 can take up to
eight passengers. Though of more
interest to the adventurous traveling
type, 80.9 cubic feet of cargo space
can be achieved with the second and
third rows folded down, allowing for
plenty of room for camping or sporting
equipment. And, of course, it comes with
all the mod-cons, including a four‐zone
climate control that offers independent
management across all three rows of
seating. landrover.com
© CYAN RACING © LAND ROVER
VOLVO P1800
Restomods—classically styled cars updated with the
latest technology—are increasingly popular and Swedish
firm Cyan is right at the heart of it, now taking its muchadmired
P1800 to the U.S. for the first time. Originally
released in 1960, the sports car epitomized the era’s sense
of style and now is remodeled to offer a high-performance
update. The modern twin-cam four-cylinder Volvo engine is
paired with a five-speed bespoke Holinger manual gearbox
and a Cyan-designed rear suspension. Looks count too—
the interiors are fully customizable. cyancars.se
24 NetJets

© DELOREAN
DELOREAN ALPHA5
This creation of a new Texas-based company stays loyal
to some familiar features associated with the original
name—iconic gull-wing doors included. Dreamers can
step back to the future with the Alpha5, an electric version
of the 1980s sports car made famous by the time-travelling
trilogy. Its origins are recognizable, but there are some
significant changes, including a smoother curved look and
the addition of an extra two seats. The Alpha5 doesn’t lack
when it comes to speed either, going from 0-60mph in
under three seconds and it can reach 155mph. delorean.com
MERCEDES-AMG E63 S
4MATIC+FINAL EDITION
Marking the end of an era, the E63 S 4MATIC+ Final
Edition will be the last in its class, as the V8 E-Class is
phased out and Mercedes focuses on lowering emissions
and increasing its electric range. Just 999 units of the
model will be made, but it will certainly go out in style,
with the Graphite Grey Magno paint and special 20-inch
forged wheels making a bold aesthetic statement. The
interiors also catch the eye, with titanium gray nappa
leather seats epitomizing the luxe nature of the vehicle as
a whole. mercedes-amg.com
© MERCEDES-BENZ AG
DENGLER STUDIO
PORSCHE 928
Moving out of the shadow of the 911, the 928 is given
a stylish makeover from the French start-up Nardone
Automotive. Powered by a 400hp V8 engine and featuring
a six-speed gearbox, this restomod has bodywork mostly
composed of lightweight carbon fiber, but retains the
imitable Porsche elegance. The interior has received
an upgrade as well, with Foglizzo leather and Alacantra
throughout, and infotainment options that incorporates the
Porsche Classic Management system alongside a high-end
hi-fi system and Apple CarPlay. Fittingly previewed at
Milan Design Week, the 928 is as much a work of art as a
car. nardone-automotive.com
NetJets
25

NOTES FROM NETJETS
Latest happenings, onboard updates,
companywide news, and profiles.
© NETJETS
A NEW LOOK
In collaboration with our longtime partner
Brooks Brothers, we debuted new NetJets
uniforms for our U.S. Crewmembers,
including pilots, flight attendants,
and service representatives. The new
uniforms, featuring navy and silver, bring
a more cohesive look across our global
brand, helping to easily identify NetJets’
Crewmembers when traveling in the U.S.
and Europe. To further distinguish NetJets’
team members, uniform accessories are
broken down into three color groups: silver
for pilots, navy for service representatives,
and burgundy for flight attendants. The
one-of-a-kind uniforms were custom
designed for NetJets. Each garment is
specially crafted with subtle, brand-specific
details to make each unique.
NEW COLORS
Clockwise from top left: the latest pilot uniforms;
flight attendants; service representatives
26 NetJets

RIDING HIGH
INSIDE TRACK
ANDREW NAUDASHER
Vice President, Global Procurement
JULIAN RENTZSCH
As the offi cial sponsor for the
Winter Equestrian Festival
in Wellington, Florida, and
the International Polo Club,
we are thrilled to wrap up
another successful winter of
equestrian sporting events.
During 12 weeks of sports
and hospitality, we created
unique V.I.P. spaces and
unforgettable experiences for
well over 100 Owners who
enjoyed watching the best
show jumpers, polo players,
and other equestrians. Owners
had wonderful opportunities
to mingle with like-minded
equestrian enthusiasts while
enjoying gourmet fare and
specialty cocktails.
WHEN DID YOU START AT NETJETS?
I started as a director of Global Procurement in
September 2013 and was primarily responsible
for indirect spending categories. At that time, we
had just centralized all spending categories under
the procurement department. My role within
NetJets has been very rewarding both personally
and professionally, as I have helped build the
policies, processes, and tools required to effi ciently
manage and control our global spend over the last
eight years.
WHAT DOES YOUR NORMAL DAY CONSIST OF?
I spend the majority of my days focused on
ensuring we are looking at our categories of spend
strategically and taking the right steps to make
sure we are managing risk and cost in an everchanging
market.
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE YOU FACE
IN YOUR ROLE?
This is a great question, given what is going on
around the world today. Without a doubt, the
biggest challenge I face, and procurement in
general faces, is twofold: one, mitigating the impact
of infl ation across NetJets’ spend categories and
guaranteeing we can grow profi tability; and two,
ensuring a steady supply for the critical materials
and services required to provide our Owners with
the experience they desire.
SMILES AND MILES
Laura Lally and guests—affectionately known as Mares
in the Air—jet to the Winter Equestrian Festival.
© NETJETS
NetJets
27

NOTES FROM NETJETS
GLOBAL 7500
The new NetJets Flagship from Bombardier
14
PASSENGERS
(Cabin comfortably sleeps up to six)
4
DISTINCT, PRIVATE CABIN SPACES
(Club, dining, entertainment,
and master suites)
UP TO 16 HOURS
ENDURANCE
20
TOTAL GLOBAL 7500s
TO BE DELIVERED
(We anticipate three-to-five
per year going forward)
59.6 FT
CABIN LENGTH
(Nearly 12 feet longer than
the Global 6000)
6.17 FT
CABIN HEIGHT
593 MPH
HIGH-SPEED CRUISE
The industry’s fastest ultralong-range jet, the Bombardier Global 7500 features both innovative
circadian lighting and air-purifi cation systems that help combat jet lag and leave passengers
feeling refreshed in each of its four distinct cabin zones. The GE Passport turbofan engine,
designed specifi cally for the Global 7500, allows nonstop fl ight from San Francisco to Sydney.
For comfort, the Nuage seat is a revolutionary concept—it adjusts and tilts, and with its unique
fl oating base, it moves the way you want to. The entertainment room includes a divan with
a new recline position—perfect for enjoying the NetJets In-Flight Entertainment System on
the 40-inch 4K display. And, of course, a dedicated crew provides unique experiences with
specially curated wines, gourmet delicacies, and essential amenities that make it feel like home.
© NETJETS
28 NetJets

JULIAN RENTZSCH
CREWMEMBERS IN PROFILE
DEWEY DAVENPORT
Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association,
Lifetime Achievement in Aviation Award,
Challenger 350 Pilot
MY FIRST EXPOSURE TO FLYING WAS …
around seven years old. I grew up in
Jamestown, Ohio—a farm town—where I
played with model airplanes, built plastic planes,
and fl ew radio-controlled planes with my dad.
My parents were always very supportive of my
dreams to fl y, but I didn’t fl y in a plane until I
was a senior in high school.
THE BEST PART OF FLYING IS … the liftoff—
taking off and leaving the ground.
BEFORE JOINING THE NETJETS TEAM, I WAS
… working at Skydive Greene County in Xenia,
Ohio. It was an opportunity to have a start at
life and jump out of a plane for the fi rst time.
I fl ew twin-engine airplanes and made 81
skydive drops. I worked at USA Jet Airlines for
seven-and-a-half years hauling freight and fl ying
passenger charters.
THE ONE DAY AT NETJETS I WON’T FORGET
WAS … when I was called and offered the job.
I went to lunch with my parents, and then we
came home and listened to the message on the
answering machine together. We were jumping
up and down, so happy that I got the job.
ON MY DAYS OFF … I have a 1929 and
1930 biplane and I enjoy offering vintage
plane rides to the community. This year I
will organize and host the eighth annual
Barnstorming Carnival in Springfi eld, Ohio. We
offer biplane rides, model airplanes, a magic
show, and other fun activities. My hobby and
business, Goodfolk & O’Tymes Biplane Rides,
keeps me busy—I have logged over 8,000 rides.
When I am not in a plane, I enjoy hanging with
friends and playing golf.
WITHIN THE NEXT TEN YEARS, I WOULD
LIKE TO … continue outreach to young kids
and adults, teaching them about planes and
how to fl y, and being a pathway for kids without
resources or means to get into aviation. For
some people, a model airplane may be their fi rst
introduction to aviation. For others, it may be
fl ying in a biplane.
MY BEST ADVICE FOR STAYING SANE ACROSS
THE TIME ZONES IS … get out and enjoy life,
meet, and get to know people. I almost always
know somebody wherever I land, so I enjoy
calling and meeting up with friends across cities.
If I don’t know anybody, I meet new people.
ONE THING OWNERS PROBABLY WOULDN’T
GUESS ABOUT ME IS … I love barnstorming,
sharing biplane history with the community, and
connecting with kids.
NetJets
29

OWNER’S PROFILE
A man of many talents, Blue Buffalo founder
and serial entrepreneur Bill Bishop has led a
remarkably varied life. // By Heidi Mitchell
ACROSS
THE BOARD
IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE the mastermind behind
multibillion-dollar Blue Buffalo natural dog
food and multi-decamillion beverage brand
SoBe sodas as a mail boy, but most interesting
success stories begin in the basement. That was
where Bill Bishop found himself after graduating
from Ohio Wesleyan University—which he had
attended on a basketball scholarship, even
though he was also the 1956 New York State
half-mile track champion and made All-Midwest
in college lacrosse by scoring a record number of
goals in 1961. This wasn’t a guy willing to push
carts around for too long. He had ambitions.
So after he was called up to serve during
the Vietnam War (“I was on Parris Island; thank
god we never got deployed”), young Bishop
returned to New York determined to put his
journalism degree to work—not as a writer,
certainly not in the mail room, but as a slick
ad man. It was the “Mad Men” era of 1963,
and Bishop wanted in. He aimed to make
enough money to escape the Scarsdale home
he grew up in with no father, one brother, 11
other relatives, and one bathroom. “It was a
great exercise in restraint, what can I say?” the
83-year-old remarks with a laugh.
Every day, Bishop would don a suit, take
the train to Grand Central Station, then stack
his pile of dimes atop one of the payphones
lined up outside the Pan Am Building. He had
ripped the “advertising agency” section from a
copy of the Yellow Pages, and started calling
fi rms, beginning with the letter A, on the hunt
for a training program. A persuasive chap, he
made it to B, and landed a gig at BBDO as an
account management trainee. “I wanted to be
a copywriter, but as I perused the business, it
became apparent that account management
was the way to cruise up the chain,” he says.
Turns out, he was excellent at managing
clients and truly understanding brands. Money
wasn’t a driver—he was only making $6,000
a year—but success was. “I always wanted to
be successful,” Bishop refl ects. “When I played
sports, I wanted to start. I wanted to be the
leading scorer. I’ve never told anybody this, but
I really wanted to be the best at whatever I did.”
That required switching jobs every two years or
so. “Changing companies was an easier way
to jump from account executive to supervisor
to management supervisor,” he says. “I did
make more money each time, but the biggest
benefi t, in retrospect, was seeing the companies
manage their business. P&G, Nabisco, General
Foods, Playtex, Tropicana…I got to see their
brand-building philosophies and the results of
their corporate culture. Those are some super
benefi ts.” The most impactful lesson he gleaned,
he says, is that, for any company, “there are 99
things you can do every day, but only four things
that will move the business forward.” He grew
frustrated watching companies getting “analysis
paralysis,” attempting to incorporate everyone’s
view. “They got stuck,” Bishop noticed.
He left the agency world and went to work as
category marketing manager for General Foods,
overseeing beverage brands like Kool-Aid and
Country Time Lemonade, before being recruited
to the Marketing Corporation of America (MCA)
consultancy in Westport, Connecticut. That
FORWARD LOOKING
Bill Bishop’s strength in being
able to spot an opening in the
market has led to an eclectic career.
30 NetJets

GUERIN BLASK
NetJets
31

OWNER’S PROFILE
afforded him time to coach his two sons, Billy
and Chris, during football, basketball, and
lacrosse seasons. “The best businesspeople are
those who have a balanced life,” the devoted
father says. “I was never big on those who get
an MBA and work, work, work. I don’t like that
lifestyle for me, or for my employees—they
should be able to think the way our customers
think, and, if you’re a normal person, your
family comes fi rst and your work comes
second.” When MCA acquired an ad agency,
Bishop was the obvious choice to be its CEO.
“It was 1985, I was, like, 45 and had an offi ce
on the 63rd fl oor of the Chrysler Building,” he
says. “It was so awesome.” Eventually, Bishop
decided it was time to stop working for other
people. He launched Sierra Communications, a
marketing fi rm that “was willing to do anything:
direct marketing, TV ads, whatever you wanted,”
the agency veteran recalls. Friends came
through with business opportunities. “We had
Amex, NFL Properties, Nabisco, Southern New
“I was 45 and had an office on the 63rd floor
of the Chrysler Building. It was awesome.”
32 NetJets

GUERIN BLASK
England Telephone, GE Capital. It was a small
agency, but we offered incredibly high-touch
service and it was highly profi table.”
Meanwhile, a former client came to Bishop
with an idea for a destination-themed beverage
company. It was 1995, and Nantucket Nectars
was killing it. Naturally, Bishop jumped at
the opportunity to build a brand from scratch.
But its fi rst foray, Key Largo Lemonade, failed
spectacularly. “We had raised $2 million and
had spent virtually all of it,” explains Bishop.
Driven to succeed, Bishop retooled the brand
and relaunched it. “At the time, South Beach
was an international destination known for
its hedonism,” he recalls. “So we decided to
name the brand ‘SoBe’ because that’s what the
locals called South Beach, and we decided to
focus on the lizard icon, which people seemed
to like.” AriZona Iced Tea had a ginseng drink
that was growing like crazy, and Bishop fi gured
throwing some herbs with proven benefi ts into
a tasty beverage would be a winning recipe.
They created SoBe Black Tea 3G, with ginseng,
gingko, and guarana, and Bishop and son, Billy,
drove a van full of samples from Connecticut to
Houston to attend the InterBev industry show.
They had the worst possible spot—in front of
the men’s room—which sparked their tag line:
Drain the Lizard. They set up a basketball hoop,
and as guys came out of the men’s room, they
gave them a T-shirt if they made the shot. “We
had lines of people and we won the beverage
of show award,” Bishop says. By 2000, they
were doing more than $200 million in sales,
showing up in old school buses at alternative
sporting events, like the X Games, to do guerrilla
marketing. The target market was men aged 16
to 24, so it made sense that Bishop would make
his son Billy vice president of marketing once he
graduated from college. “He hired young guys
who were in the target audience themselves,
which got us into the mindset of the people we
were selling to,” the patriarch says. When Chris
graduated a couple of years later, he ran the
Cannondale mountain bike racing team. “We
had this major family bond. I really enjoyed
that,” Bishop senior says. SoBe was sold to
Pepsi in 2001 for $370 million, which gave the
Bishops room to consider their next steps.
Retirement wasn’t an option, and he
wanted his sons to work. The family’s largebreed
Airedale, Blue, was battling cancer,
which inspired the Bishop men to take a hard
look at the pet food market. In 2002, there
was a small but rapidly growing natural pet
food segment, but 98% of the industry was
dominated by big, multinational corporations
who were loading their kibble with fi llers. Bill
and his sons sourced some animal nutritionists
to help develop a pet food that would include
“life-source bits” made up of minerals and
vitamins to supplement a healthy diet. All they
needed was a name. “We recalled the SoBe
lizard: people remembered the symbol more
than the name,” says Bishop. “So we called the
product Blue after our dog, and we thought a
buffalo could work as our symbol because the
Plains Indians considered them the protector of
smaller animals.” Taking a lesson from his time
with NFL Properties, Bishop slapped buffalos
on hats and T-shirts and convinced PetSmart
to take a chance on this new natural food. Blue
Buffalo landed on the shelves of 240 stores in
August 2003, but at a pricey $39.95 a bag,
it wasn’t selling. “So we looked at the other
natural brands, and saw that their consumers
were being educated by the owners of the
mom-and-pop pet shops. We built up a team of
1,800 demonstrators to stand in stores on hightraffi
c days and tell people about the benefi ts
of our product. It was educational advertising,”
says Bishop. It cost a fortune, he admits, but
it worked. PetSmart expanded its Blue Buffalo
distribution, Bishop renamed the demonstrators
“Pet Detectives,” and he watched older folks of
retirement age vying for this job that required
authentic interaction with people and their pets.
Blue Buffalo reached profi tability in 2010, with
Chris overseeing advertising and Billy doing
operations. “They are very different kids. Chris
was very good at creative and Billy was good at
numbers and eyeryone was very happy,” recalls
Bishop. “Family companies can lead to fi ghts,
but both of them understood their lanes and
played to their strengths. It was one of the best
times we ever had.” In July 2015, the company
IPOed on NASDAQ, but the family and
investment partner, the Invus Group, retained a
51% controling interest in the company. Three
years later, General Mills bought Blue Buffalo,
the No. 1 natural food brand for cats and dogs,
for $8.1 billion.
The Bishops now spend their time running
their family offi ce, called Seminole Investment
Management, as well as B3, which Billy
oversees, and has invested in everything from
canned cocktails to golf apparel to cannabis.
The oldest grandchilden are looking at colleges
now. “It’s nuts how time goes by so fast,”
Bishop remarks. The octogenarian makes
good use of his days: after he sold SoBe, he
bought 25 hours with NetJets to spend more
time in Nantucket and Florida. “It was like
we’d died and gone to heaven,” he says. “It’s
nice to be able to take the family on trips
together. We’ve been to Scotland, Ireland; we
spend summers in Nantucket. We fl y out of
Palm Beach in winters,” he says. Like his own
companies, Bishop sees NetJets focusing on
just four things—in its case, safety, reliability,
convenience, and a blissful fl ight experience.
“I like the culture,” says Bishop. “The fl ight
attendant and pilots are like the Blue Buffalo
Pet Detectives. They have a lot of pride in their
company and are focused on the right stuff.”
He’s focused on his golf game at the moment,
playing “some of the worst golf on some of the
world’s best courses,” he jokes. Every day he
is grateful for his good fortune. Says the serial
entrepreneur and average golfer: “I am your
normal blue-collar-type guy who just happened
to get lucky.”
NetJets
33

SCOTLAND’S
SWINGING
From a handful of new links joining the roster of classic
courses to a welcome profusion of top-notch restaurants
and hotels, the golf experience in its home country has
never been better. // By Farhad Heydari
MARK ALEXANDER
TEEING OFF
34 NetJets

FOR TENNIS FANS, it’s a trip to Wimbledon. For
devotees of cricket, it’s a visit to Lord’s. And
for golfers, nothing represents a pilgrimage to
the birthplace of the game more than a visit to
Scotland, the home of golf. But unlike the former
or the latter, in Scotland visitors can actually
play the very hallowed courses that have been
inscribed in legend and lore, walking the same
fairways and challenging the same greens (with
some stipulations) that have vexed and befuddled
the great and good for decades, if not centuries.
And while Caledonia’s golfing charms remain
as etched into the countryside as the many
trademark revetted pot bunkers and fescue-lined
fairways that are omnipresent throughout the
land, there are changes afoot in the landscape
of the game. Thanks to an influx of investment,
much of it foreign, the great game and its hotel
and restaurant ancillaries have seen a bounty of
tempered and well-considered development over
the past 12 to 24 months, from the west to the
east of the country where the saltire flies.
And now, the stage is set for a year unlike
any other: The 150th Open Championship
returned to St. Andrews’ Old Course this summer
(complete with a Tiger roaming the grounds)
and the British Senior Open will be contested
across the King’s Course of Gleneagles. Add to
that, tee sheets that are already booked solid
(chock-a-block in local parlance) at vaunted
tracks like Craighead Links and Royal Dornoch
and it’s easy to see why it’s set to be a sizzling
Scottish summer (forecast not guaranteed!) for
anyone who opts to visit.
BURNISHED TO PERFECTION
As The Open returned home for its 150th edition,
St. Andrews has never looked better.
WHERE TO PLAY
Don’t fret if you can’t get on The Old Course. Just
nine miles south of St. Andrews is Britain’s newest
golfing jewel, Dumbarnie Links (dumbarnielinks.
com). Designed by Clive Clark (a member of the
1973 Great Britain and Ireland Ryder Cup team),
this newcomer occupies the last great piece of
coastal land in the area: a 1.5-mile stretch of
waterfront on the south coast of Fife featuring
panoramas over the Firth of Forth from every
hole. Studded with more than 600 dunes and
playing as a 6,905-yard par 72, the unique
two-tiered site has already played host in its
first full year of operation to the 2021 Women’s
Scottish Open and, thanks to its daily fee model,
has become an instant must-play with devotees
of the game who have rushed from mainland
Europe and the U.S. to see what all the fuss is
about. “There are magnificent views from every
hole—if one considers the courses on The Open
Championship rota, many have little or no water
views,” says Clark, aptly, of the sure-to-classic
track with a mix of gently swaying risk-reward
doglegs, holes with split-fairways, punishing pot
bunkers juxtaposed with the natural sandy variety
which are “surrounded by tall fescue grasses
DINE WITH A VIEW
The Swilcan Loft restaurant at the
Old Course Hotel; facing page: The
undulating Dumbarnie Links.
waving in the wind,” according to Clark, and
more than a handful of memorable holes. These
include the par-three eighth: a 158-yard devilish
downhiller that puts the emphasis on target golf
into a well-protected postage-stamp green framed
by the Firth of Forth in the background.
WHERE TO EAT
Whatever you do, don’t forgo a meal at 18
Restaurant (18standrews.co.uk), where
reservations are not only encouraged but
recommended. Helmed by Derek Johnstone
and opened in September, the eatery is situated
atop Rusacks St. Andrews, now part of the new
Marine & Lawn Collection of resorts, with an
unrivaled perch over the Old Course and West
Sands Beach. But the vistas take a backseat to
the deft cookery of Johnstone, a recent winner of
“MasterChef: The Professionals.” Purveyed with
precision in a clubby wood-paneled space is a
mostly surf-and-turf open-flame menu consisting
of locally sourced beef, game and freshly caught
seafood, all skillfuly prepared on the state-of-theart
robata grill.
SUITE TALK
It’s hard to sidestep the outsized footprint,
reputation, and location of the Old Course Hotel
(oldcoursehotel.co.uk), situated alongside the
famous Road Hole, the 17th at St. Andrews. And
now, following a series of much-needed upgrades
and tweaks, it will be nearly impossible to do so.
The property, owned by Kohler, already punches
above its weight with its eponymous spa, where
water and bathing experiences in all iterations,
including a cold post-sauna plunge pool, form the
centerpiece. But now, the hostelry has undergone
a multifaceted, multimillion-dollar renovation,
DON’T MISS
If you can’t score a table at 18 Restaurant, make your way to BALGOVE (balgove.com),
a farm shop with a trio of eateries on the outskirts of town. While you will have to
queue, as it operates a no-booking policy, a seat at the Steak Barn is feted among locals
and visitors alike for its superlative steaks, hung for no less than 28 days, as well as
burgers and home-made sausages, all of which are cooked on a huge open wood-fired
barbecue and served with twice-fried chips, or crispy beer-battered onion rings, wine
and local beer. Just don’t tell your cardiologist.
QUOIN IMAGES
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JAMES RISDON
TEEING OFF
adding 31 new rooms and suites, some created
by French designer Jacques Garcia, renowned
for his work with Hôtel Costes in Paris and Hôtel
Métropole in Monte Carlo, with views of the Old
Course and a 1,320sq ft Penthouse Suite with
a private elevator and a balcony with outdoor
seating and fire pit. There is also a new restaurant,
Swilcan Loft, with an all-day international menu
derived from Scottish produce, which overlooks
the iconic Jigger Inn pub and its namesake
crossing: arguably the most famous bridge in all
of golf on the Old Course’s 18th hole. All of which
makes booking early a must—between The
Open, the debut of the Old Course Hotel Pro Am
(oldcoursehotelproam.com) and the perennial
favorite, the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship
(alfreddunhilllinks.com), it’s going to be a very
busy year for the property.
ALL EYES ON AYRSHIRE
Stay and play along a stretch of golfing terrain
unrivaled in the world.
With names like Glasgow Gailes, Western
Gailes, Royal Troon, Turnberry, and Prestwick,
this stretch of coastline south of Glasgow is
MADE IN STONE
The picturesque Forter Castle
in Cairngorms National Park;
facing page, from top: the Glenturret
Lalique Restaurant; a beach at
The Machrie Links.
HIDDEN GEM
Often overlooked is a little-known heathland track called THE DUKE’S COURSE
(thedukescourse.co.uk), located a couple of miles inland from and owned by the Old
Course Hotel. Designed by five-time Open Champion Peter Thomson, it stretches to
7,512 yards from the tips and flows from pockets of forest through farmlands to the
hilltop par-four 13th, which affords spectacular panoramas of the town and bay of St.
Andrews towards the Firth of Tay and Carnoustie. A fun, fair, and fearsome (depending
on which of the five tees you choose) test of parkland golf where smart execution
is at a premium and where the challenge, unlike in some of the links in Scotland, is
uncomplicatedly presented before you.
blessed with some of the best courses in the
world. Now, a name known mostly in the British
Isles, Dundonald Links (dundonaldlinks.com) is
hoping to have its international close-up following
an ambitious £25M investment. Designed by
noted American architect Kyle Phillips (whose
credits include such headlining tracks such as
Kingsbarns in Fife, The Grove in Hertfordshire,
the redesign of Paris’ Golf De Morfontaine, Yas
Links in Abu Dhabi, and the pair of courses at
Verdura in Sicily among many others), the par-
72, 7,303-yard course on Scotland’s west coast
is a modern links golf experience (near but not on
the seafront) with generous fairways, undulating
greens, strategic catch bunkers, and well-placed
burns on a site that dates to 1911. But it is now
complemented by a new two-story clubhouse
as well as 18 luxury lodges with innumerable
amenities, including a series of private putting
greens for guests who overnight, right on their
doorstep. It’s no wonder it is set to play host to
the 2022 Women’s Scottish Open.
For those who wish to overnight in a
property with more amenities, the Marine &
Lawn Collection is set to reopen the erstwhile
Marine Hotel as Marine Troon (marineandlawn.
com) in the so-named seaside town later this
year. The 89-room property will be revitalized
with new-look rooms, dining concepts, and
wellness, spa and fitness facilities that include
an indoor pool, sauna and steam rooms as well
as something you don’t find that often: a squash
court. All of this, however, takes a backseat to
unobstructed views of the breathtaking Ayrshire
coastline, the Isle of Arran, and the legendary
Royal Troon Golf Club, a nine-time host of The
Open, just at the hotel’s doorstep.
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URBAN CHARMER
Bringing some countryside flair to the Scottish capital, this
summer Gleneagles debuts its second outpost in one of
Edinburgh’s most historic heritage buildings, the former Bank
of Scotland edifice on St. Andrew Square. Dubbed GLENEAGLES
TOWNHOUSE (gleneaglestownhouse.com), the 33-room hotel
will comprise a bustling all-day restaurant helmed by head
chef Jonny Wright, whose previous stints include running
Jason Atherton’s Berner’s Tavern, a lively members’ club and
a rooftop bar, with views over the city’s storied skyline. There
will also be a gym and wellness facilities, housed in the bank’s
former vault, which will be available to guests and those select
in-towners. The grandeur of the building, with its soaring spaces
and decorative period moldings and motifs, are reflected in
an interior design palette that mixes classicism (think: antique
lighting, ornate cornicing, stone columns, ornamental gold
details) with fresh colors and modern artwork in a space that is
sure to become the city’s creative hub.
Down the coast, the Scottish baronial-style
Glenapp Castle (glenappcastle.com) also had
a nip-and-a-tuck. In addition to launching
The Endeavour Penthouse Castle Apartment,
a sprawling, self-contained penthouse spread
across 4,500 square feet and tucked away on
its own floor accessible by private elevator, it
has put the emphasis firmly on the gastronomy
offerings with a bevy of debuts, including a new
restaurant, a new chef, and its unique private
dining experiences, such as the Hebridean
Sea Safari, which has added new tents, a new
communal tent and a hot tub. Back on terra
firma, gorgeous botanical gardens beckon
guests who can also try their hand at croquet
and falconry, the myriad other daily experiences
(such as evening celestial walks with an in-house
astronomer), notwithstanding.
RETO GUNTLI
HIGHLAND HAPPENINGS
A trio of essential stopovers for bedding down,
tucking in, and kicking back.
There is no shortage of places to call home in
this prelapsarian part of the world. But skip
the beautifully bijou 16th-century Forter Castle
(fortercastle.com) at your own peril. Situated
in the heart of Perthshire, inside Cairngorms
National Park, this five-floored towered stone
citadel was rescued by the Pooley family brickby-brick
back in 1988 and has been lovingly
restored by the scion, noted interior designer
Katharine Pooley. Expect refined touches such as
four-poster beds and high-thread count sheets;
cut-crystal decanters and stemware; acres and
acres of family tweed and tartan; dozens of oil
paintings, ceremonial swords, and crests and
coat-of-arms strewn around the exclusive-use
property, which is now both a family home and
a holiday rental sleeping up to 12 guests (plus
three dogs). For hopeless romantics, there’s even
a chapel, should a stay prove truly life-changing.
Over in Crieff, Scotland’s oldest working
distillery now has one of the country’s most
refined fine-dining experiences: The Glenturret
Lalique Restaurant (theglenturret.com). Backed
by the deep pockets of the French glassware,
fragrance, and parfum house that now owns the
© THE MACHRIE
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© MACHRIHANISH DUNES
BRENDAN MACNEILL
© THE MACHRIE
© THE MACHRIE
TEEING OFF
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distillery, it drafted in head chef Mark Donald
last fall who, in less than six months, burnished
his already impressive culinary credentials
by securing a Michelin star for the site. His
precise execution, delicate flavors, exquisite
attention to detail, and stunning presentation
are evident in the multicourse tasting menu with
locally sourced ingredients that are paired to a
substantial and impressive wine list, curated by
executive sommelier Julien Beltzung. Service is
unimpeachable, as is the sizable selection of rare
and aged whiskies on offer in the bar.
One watering hole that you won’t be able to
readily access is the aptly named Secret Bar at
Gleneagles (gleneagles.com). Reserved for the
resort’s nearest and dearest, the back-of-house
shoebox venue is an unmarked speakeasy
to which one must be escorted. Once there,
you’re enveloped by period furnishings, dulcet
background tones of jazz and blues, and perfectly
executed cocktails that instantly transport you to
Prohibition-era hangouts of yesteryear. Just don’t
expect the resort to acknowledge its existence—
like any proper speakeasy, mum’s the word.
LURE OF KINTYRE
Campbeltown and its surrounds in Scotland’s
southwest are worthy of a journey.
WHERE TO PLAY
Most low-handicappers who make the trek to
this remote big-sky isthmus head straight for
Machrihanish Golf Club, rightly considered one
of the most special places to play in the whole of
Britain and Ireland. However, just up the coast
lies homegrown architect David McLay-Kidd’s
Machrihanish Dunes (machrihanishdunes.com):
as authentic an experience of how this ancient
game was once played as you’ll find, well,
nowhere else in the world. This under-presented
7,175-yard, par-72 is in harmony and within
nature. It has to be: because it lies on a Site of
Special Scientific Interest (the only course ever
built to have this recognition), the use of fertilizers
and pesticides is forbidden; the same goes for the
installation of irrigation and drainage. Instead,
McLay-Kidd, whose previous credits include
such blockbuster layouts such as Bandon Dunes
in Oregon, Queenwood in England, and Laucala
in Fiji, to name just three, has taken the natural
hollows, valleys, and ridges, all set hard on the
shores of the Atlantic, to fashion a course that is
golf in its purest form: natural and wild, with no
fewer than six greens and five tees at the ocean’s
edge. You’ll need a windproof game, patience,
and lots of balls to tackle this unique entity, where
more than a handful of blind approaches, natural
bunkers, and a landscape unaltered in millennia
challenge. “Mach Dunes was the most minimal
build ever,” he told “Golf World” magazine once.
“Even Old Tom would have been impressed!”
WHERE TO EAT
Book successive reservations for some of the
freshest seafood you’ll find at Number Forty Two
(gmat42.com), the brainchild of chef Gordon
NATURE’S BOUNTY
With a petite portfolio of just two inns and a quartet of self-catering cottages,
WILDLAND (wildland.scot) is not only a collective of charming retreats for the outdoorsy
set and those who wish to connect with nature, but also an organization that is a
custodian of three vast Scottish estates with a focus on conservation, and community
and, a dedication to the rehabilitation of some of Scotland’s most precious landscapes.
SCOTLAND’S BOUNTY
Clockwise from top left: Fresh
seafood at The Machrie Links;
aerial view of The Machrie course;
rustic dining at Machrihanish Dunes;
one-time Open champion Darren
Clarke at the course in Kintyre.
McNeill. Located in Campbeltown, this newcomer
is a low-key showcase of grilled and game meats,
seafood, and shellfish, all presented with aplomb
to a mostly local clientele. The seasonal menu is
an ever-changing one but if available, don’t forgo
the lobster, langoustine, and stone crab or, for
that matter, the mussels and the scallops. You
won’t be disappointed.
WHERE TO STAY
There are a trio of options for overnighting in
the area—all of which, alongside Machrihanish
Dunes, are owned and operated by
Massachusetts-based Southworth Development.
Situated on the seashore, Ugadale Hotel &
Cottages (ugadalecottages.co.uk) is modest
in presentation and amenities but eminently
comfortable, with standout service. In the centre
of nearby Campbeltown, The Royal Hotel boasts
23 guest rooms and suites as well as a pair of
eateries.
WORTH A DETOUR
Known mostly to whisky connoisseurs, the
windswept isle of Islay (pronounced EYE-l ), 15
miles off Scotland’s west coast, hasn’t really been
on the radar of 36-a-day types. That all changed
in 2018 with the relaunch of The Machrie
Links (themachrielinks.com) on a landmass
home to some of the most lauded distilleries in
the world, with names like Ardbeg, Bowmore,
and Laphroaig, nine in all. Originally created
in 1891, the bonsai-perfect course that shines
today on Laggan Bay is effectively a newbie,
refashioned and rebuilt from an ancient footprint
by European Tour veteran and European Ryder
Cup vice-captain D.J. Russell. And it’s a beauty:
A playful, penal, and pretty track measuring a
modest 6,782 yards by today’s standards that
weaves and wends its way in, out, and around
the ruggedly natural omnipresent dunes on this
stretch of the southernmost island of the Inner
Hebrides. Just seven of the original greens remain
but many of them are contoured and surrounded
by strategically placed bunkers and mounding as
well as native grasses that frame them to the eye
on long approaches, giving the course (unlike
some links tracks) visual depth. The lapping
waters of the Atlantic are never far away—nor
are the other accoutrements including the sixhole
short course, an extensive pitching and
putting area, and, of course, the driving range.
It’s all located on the doorstep of the bijou and
even newer 47-room hotel-cum-clubhouse that
has a whimsical and brightly colored Scottish-
Scandi design ethos and all the chic mod cons
you’d expect, as well as a vast vaulted ceiling
under which a welcoming bar and restaurant
are located and, for wellness, a spa, gym, and
sauna downstairs.
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TEEING OFF
I N T H E D E T A I L S
Two key aspects of every golfer’s kit have upped the ante
this year: shoes and wedges. // By Matt Saternus
Golfers have never had more choices when
it comes to footwear. From traditional wingtips
to modern, sneaker-inspired designs, the
styles run the gamut, as do the performance
characteristics. Every type of player will
find a shoe to love on this list.
Clockwise from top left:
ROYAL ALBARTROSS PONTIAC
V2 MAJOR
High-end maker Royal Albartross celebrates
the Major season with this special edition
of its Pontiac golf shoe. The classic sneaker
profile is accented with a green leather
heel panel with a subtle magnolia print.
albartross.com
FOOTJOY FUEL
The FootJoy Fuel shows the company’s
willingness to go beyond the traditional
leather wingtip. A sneaker-inspired look
and out-of-the-box comfort put the Fuel
on a level with the best modern golf shoes.
footjoy.com
CUATER MONEY MAKER
The Money Maker has a casual look that
belies serious performance. Despite having
a knit upper, this shoe is totally waterproof,
and the rigid, triangular nubs provide
excellent footing, even in slippy conditions.
travismathew.com
ECCO BIOM H4
Ecco is unsurpassed when it comes to
using the highest quality materials in its
golf shoes. The leather upper is enhanced
with GORE-TEX to provide the ultimate in
waterproofing. An OrthoLite insole provides
cushioning and breathability. ecco.com
UNDER ARMOUR SPIETH 5 SPIKELESS
Jordan Spieth’s first signature shoe without
replaceable spikes has a wide base and
aggressive sole to give it plenty of traction
for those all-out swings from the tee.
underarmour.com
COLE HAAN
Cole Haan’s three new golf offerings
include a traditional wingtip, a modern
knit-style shoe, and a classic sneaker.
They vary not only the styles but the
soles too: The Generation ZERØGRAND
has a very light tread where the others
provide more traction. colehaan.com
PAYNTR X 001 F
The first golf offering from Payntr shows
the founders’ deep understanding of
footwork and biomechanics. Though it’s
technically “spikeless”, this is one of
the most stable golf shoes on the market.
payntr.com
TRUE LINKSWEAR ALL DAY RIPSTOP
TRUE is a favorite among walking golfers
for its lightweight, minimalist shoes. The
All Day Ripstop aspires to grow the brand
beyond golf with style and comfort that fit in
on and off the course. truelinkswear.com
G/FORE MG4X 2
G/FORE dials up its modern stylings to
ten with the MG4X 2 . Miles from anything
Hogan wore, these sneaker-style shoes
provide tremendous comfort thanks to a
thickly cushioned midsole. gfore.com
ADIDAS TOUR360 22
Adidas’s flagship golf shoe gets more
athletic and comfortable for 2022.
360Wrap locks your foot into place and
BOOST creates a cushioned feeling
underfoot. This shoe is also greener, being
made in part from recycled materials.
adidas.com
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1 2 3 4
When we think of technology in golf clubs, wedges don’t usually
spring to mind, but they’ve been undergoing major changes in the last
few years to help us all hit more short shots to tap-in range.
5 6 7
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE COMPANIES
1 PXG SUGAR
DADDY II
PXG’s new super
premium wedge
has a major, visible
upgrade over the
previous version:
Precision Weighting
Technology. The
large weight in the
back of the head
can be changed
to allow golfers to
dial in their perfect
swing weight for
improved feel and
consistency.
pxg.com
2 TAYLORMADE
MG3
TaylorMade is
best known for
its drivers, but
the MG3 shows a
growing skill in the
short game. This
raw-faced wedge
produces elite
levels of spin and
offers numerous
sole options,
including a replica
of Tiger Woods’s
personal grind.
taylormadegolf.com
3 CALLAWAY JAWS
FULL TOE RAW
Callaway’s newest
JAWS wedge
features grooves
that extend all
the way across
the raw face and
a higher toe. This
combination makes
it an ideal choice
for players who
regularly use flop
shots, but it’s a
strong performer
on full shots, too.
callawaygolf.com
4 TITLEIST
VOKEY SM9
The latest version
of the top wedge
on Tour has been
upgraded with new
manufacturing
processes and
modified CGs. A
new way of cutting
grooves promises
more durability and
spin that matches
the way each
wedge is used on
the course.
titleist.com
5 CLEVELAND
CBX ZIPCORE
Cleveland has
become a leader in
cavity back wedges,
reminding golfers
that if forgiveness
is good in their
irons, it’s good
in their wedges,
too. The cavity
back design pairs
with a wide sole
for a wedge that
produces consistent
results, even from
inconsistent swings.
clevelandgolf.com
6 PING GLIDE 4.0
PING’s Glide wedges
are renowned
for offering
golfers enhanced
forgiveness in a
traditional looking
wedge. Loft-specific
grooves and a
new Emery face
coating create
high, consistent
spin. Four grinds,
including the classic
Eye2 sole, allow
golfers to have the
right sole for any
condition. ping.com
7 MIZUNO T-22
The new T-22
wedges offer golfers
a tremendously
soft feel and four
sole designs.
A microlayer of
copper is inserted
beneath the finish
to enhance Mizuno’s
trademark forged
feel. Quad Cut
Milled grooves
promise to keep
short shots spinning
even after hours of
pitching practice.
mizunogolf.com
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JÖRN KASPUHL
LIVING WELL
42 NetJets

REWIRING
THE MIND
Training the body is only part of the wellness
journey, say cutting-edge doctors and
researchers. To achieve lasting results, you
need to target the brain, too. // By Jen Murphy
WE INVEST A LOT OF TIME and money training our physical bodies,
but in an age of non-stop screen-time and overstimulation,
our brains need more love than our biceps. Too much brain
activity can lead to mental fatigue, and research has shown
that chronic stress, whether from work deadlines or simply the
current state of the world, can cause structural changes in the
brain, including atrophy in the area associated with decision
making and goal-directed behaviors. When we are stressed, our
brains take in less information, and we become less flexible in
our responses to the stressful situation. This ultimately wires us
to be more stressed. The good news is there have never been
more ways to rewire the brain.
The human brain is composed of approximately 100 billion
neurons. Scientists believe production of new neurons stops
shortly after birth. Neurons that are used frequently develop
stronger connections than those that are rarely used, and by
developing new connections they can adapt to the changing
environment. Neuroplasticity refers to the brain’s ability to change
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LIVING WELL
or be infl uenced by an experience. Training our brains to adapt and
change, especially when the wiring goes haywire, can enhance our
existing cognitive functions, strengthen areas of function in decline,
aid in learning new skills, and improve brain fi tness. Elite athletes
are using neuroplasticity in their training to get not only faster and
stronger but recover from injuries, and burnt-out executives are
turning to brain training to revive their overworked minds.
Andrew Huberman, a neuroscientist at Stanford University who
studies how the brain interprets the world around us, has said
the brain moves in and out of states of fear, anxiety, courage, or
calm, and we can often consciously control how it does this by
using our bodies. Studies have shown, for example, that systematic
meditation practice can act like an antidote to effects of stress on
the brain. Research from Harvard Medical School has also shown
that meditation may be associated with structural changes in areas
of the brain that are important for emotional, cognitive, and sensory
processing and may even affect age-related declines.
Meditation isn’t the only way to shift our brain. Light therapy,
gaming, neuro-stimulating headsets, and perhaps adopting a diet
of brain-boosting foods can shift the way you think and react to
experiences. Research has also shown brain training can change
habits, teaching a night owl to be a morning person or a chronic
stress eater to stop mindlessly snacking. Brain health has become
such a hot topic it’s even become a staple at top spa retreats around
the world. Here’s a glimpse at the latest gadgets and getaways that
will renew and reshape your brain for peak performance.
Spa Trend: Cognitive Health
Forget six-pack abs or dewy skin, the latest spa therapies give your brain a boost.
CHENOT PALACE WEGGIS,
SWITZERLAND
Lauded Swiss wellness
brand Chenot’s new flagship
(pictured), located on Lake
Lucerne, incorporates a roster
of the latest neuroscience
technologies to help restore
the body to its natural
rhythms. Neuro-acoustic
deep relaxation, for example,
uses neurochemistry and
auditory signals to transition
the autonomic nervous system
out of fight-or-flight mode and
bring it into a parasympathetic
state of tranquility. And
whole-body photobiomodulation
promotes cellular metabolism
and reduces stress
through the application of
specific light wavelengths.
chenotpalaceweggis.com
ZURICH AIRPORT: 40 miles
SAMAHITA RETREAT,
KOH SAMUI, THAILAND
If you’ve been experiencing
brain fog, you could benefit
from this spa and yoga
center’s new Brain Health
Upgrade Program. Red light
therapy immediately gives your
mind an energy boost while
stimulating mitochondria and
melatonin production, and
audio-visual entrainment (a
series of flashing lights and
pulses that guides the brain
into chill mode) sessions
increase cerebral blood flow.
Top it off with organic meals
and breathwork training and
your brain will feel renewed.
samahitaretreat.com
KOH SAMUI AIRPORT: 16 miles
SIX SENSES SHAHARUT,
NEGEV DESERT, ISRAEL
Hidden away among the
towering dunes of the Arava
Valley, newly opened Six Senses
Shaharut offers one-day Mind
Your Brain programs designed
to eliminate brain fog and
mental fatigue. Mind-focused
activities such as yoga nidra
classes are complemented
by journaling workshops and
meals rich in foods linked to
brainpower (walnuts, kale,
berries). sixsenses.com
RAMON INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT: 42 miles
FOUR SEASONS
RESORT OAHU AT
KO OLINA, HAWAII
Naupaka Spa at Four Seasons
Resort Oahu at Ko Olina
boasts the world’s first virtual
reality wellness journey. The
Vessel, a futuristic-looking pod
created by immersive wellness
company Sensync, combines
aromatherapy, vibroacoustic
stimulation, sound therapy,
virtual reality, and meditation
to draw your focus away
from goal-directed thoughts
to allow restoration from
cognitive fatigue. Users can
choose from 20- to 80-minute
experiences such as Crystal
Cave or Floating Clouds. It’s
like a massage for the brain.
fourseasons.com
HONOLULU AIRPORT: 20 miles
ALEX TEUSCHER
44 NetJets

Mental Tricks for Maintaining
A Healthy Routine on the Road
JULIAN RENTZSCH
Michelle Segar, life coach and author of a new book,
The Joy Choice: How to Finally Achieve Lasting Changes in Eating
and Exercise, says sticking to a healthy lifestyle away from home
is all about embracing the right mindset.
We all have good intentions
when it comes to diet
and exercise but then life
happens—a last-minute work
meeting cuts into gym time,
a kid’s birthday party ruins
your diet with a slice of cake.
How do we stick to our good
intentions? Daily challenges
always throw curve balls at
our self-care plans. I call these
unexpected hurdles choice
points. Rather than think
of that meeting as defeat,
see it as an opportunity to
think flexibly and to change
your game plan. To achieve
consistency in the long run, we
can’t aim for perfection all the
time. It’s not realistic.
Maintaining a workout routine
is hard enough at home.
Do you have any strategies
for avoiding lapses on the
road? People often fall out
of an exercise routine at
home or while traveling
because they have an all-ornothing
approach. Adopting
a something-is-better-thannothing
mentality is particularly
helpful on the road. Have a
plan A, B, and C, and build in
creative options. If your hotel
doesn’t have a gym, is there
a park nearby to walk in? The
perfect imperfect option lets us
do something versus nothing.
What about tips for sticking
to a healthy diet on the road?
Home or away, if it’s too
restrictive, it’s too hard and
you miss out on pleasurable
opportunities. Research shows
people are more likely to stick
with a healthy eating plan
when they take breaks on the
weekend. Ahead of a work trip,
research restaurant options at
and near your hotel and always
pack healthy snacks.
What are some pitfalls that
lead to falling out of a routine?
Psychiatrist Dan Siegel coined
the phrase “name it to tame
it”—meaning being able
to name and recognize our
emotions. This gives us more
power to choose how we
react to them. People need to
recognize their decision traps
and temptations. If you feel
overwhelmed and stressed
by the idea of fitting in a
60-minute workout on the road,
you can say, “Screw it” and skip
it or you can say, “I’m going to
do 20 minutes of yoga in my
hotel room instead of running
today.”
Can we really train the brain to
make conscious choices? Yes.
By supporting our brain’s innate
self-management and its three
primary executive functions—
working memory, flexible
thinking, and inhibition—we
can stop letting life burst our
bubble and instead take charge.
It’s all about training our brain
to think in the moment of
choice. Name the problem or
emotion, come up with options
that build you up to succeed,
and make choices that bring
you joy. You will fall off course,
but it’s the ability to be resilient
rather than throw in the towel
that leads to success.
Meditate Your Way to a Younger Brain
Research has shown meditating increases gray matter in the brain, which slows the aging process
and improves attention and memory. Here are three apps to help you hone your focus.
CALM
Meditation recommendations
are based on your goals and
experience level. Users can
dip into 10-minute Daily
Calm sessions or immerse
in courses like the 7 Days of
Focus. calm.com
HEADSPACE
This popular mental
health app includes a
10-day beginner’s course
as well as specific
programs focused on
everything from building
self-esteem to deep
sleep. headspace.com
HEALTHY MINDS PROGRAM
The University of Wisconsin-
Madison developed this free
app to convince newbies that
meditation is mental training rather
than a spiritual practice. Five- to
30-minute programs help users tap
into intentions like awareness and
connection. hminnovations.org
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LIVING WELL
GADGETS TO HACK YOUR NEURONS
MENDI
Avoid senior moments and improve performance with this brain-training
headband. Sensors measure your neural activity. You strengthen
them by playing games on the app, like trying to make a ball rise by
concentrating. Users have seen improved focus and recall with 15
minutes of training a week. mendi.io
FOCUSCALM EEG HEADBAND
The coordinating app’s series of meditations and games themed
around both calm and focus train the brain to slow down even
in the most stressful situations. To gamify the program, users
are awarded a score of 0-100 based on 1,250 data points in our
brainwave signals. focuscalm.com
HALO SPORT 2
The creators of this wearable
neurostimulator headset claim
that when worn during training
it promotes muscle memory
development up to 45% faster.
Athletes see results in two to
three weeks; average Joes see
improvement faster.
haloneuro.com
MUSE S
This soft, sensor-packed headband syncs with the Muse app
to improve sleep quality. The app’s “musical digital sleeping
pills,” such as soundscapes and biofeedback, respond to your
brain activity. If you wake, for example, the audio increases to
lull you back to sleep. choosemuse.com
FLOW NEUROSCIENCE HEADSET
This direct current stimulation device and therapy app is
a medication-free alternative for people who suffer from
depression. Five 30-minute sessions a week have been
shown to stop negative spirals in less than three weeks.
flowneuroscience.com
COURTESY THE COMPANIES
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Good Vibrations
Mind Games
Gillian Bower, high performance director of U.S.
Ski & Snowboard in Park City, Utah, shares how the
secret to peak performance, recovery, and injury
prevention may just be all in your head.
How do you apply the concept
of neuroplasticity within the
context of athletic training?
The brain must coordinate
with muscle groups to execute
athletic movements. Through
repetition, elite athletes can
execute trained movements
without much thought.
U.S. alpine ski racer Breezy
Johnson has said neuro-cog
classes were key to rehabbing
the knee injury that kept her
out of the Beij ing Olympics.
How can brain training help
with recovery? A muscle
heals, but the brain doesn’t
treat the leg the same way.
We need to re-automate the
brain to trust that leg again.
After an ACL tear, it requires
substantially more brain
activation to achieve motion
than in a non-injured ACL.
Physical therapy used to teach
athletes to focus the brain
on precise movements in the
injured limb, but now we’re
thinking that can be more
detrimental when they go
back to a sport environment.
What makes the sport
environment different? In
ski racing you’re taking in
a lot of stimuli at 70 miles
per hour. You don’t have
time to dedicate a large
portion of your brain to knee
extension. We need to make
sure the athlete’s brain can
do what it has to do without
overthinking.
JULIAN RENTZSCH
How have you adapted your
recovery practices as a result?
We used to focus on the body
when we cued an activity by
saying things like straighten
your leg or keep moving.
Now we use external cues to
make athletes think outside of
the body. For a soccer player
trying to walk after surgery
that might be to kick a soccer
ball with each step rather than
straighten your leg. We also
remove mirrors, so athletes
have to rely on neuropathways
beyond their eyes to tell them
their knee is bending.
Johnson mentioned the
athletes play a lot of games
in rehab. Can you explain?
We call it contextual
interference or dual tasking.
In the gym, we fi xate on
perfect repetitions that train
the brain to do one thing.
Few athletes just hold a squat
while playing a sport. When
an athlete is relearning to
fi re their quad after surgery
we might have them fi ring
the muscle while throwing
a ball at the wall or solving
a math problem. When they
can do their activity without
thinking we retrain the brain
to anticipate movement.
I might gently push the
athlete as they hold a position
to train the motor control
needed within a complex
environment. This style of
training engages multiple
parts of the brain.
Since the mists of time, cultures around the world—Tibetan monks
with their singing bowls and Australian Aborigines with their
bellowing didgeridoos—have achieved meditative states through
sound vibrations. Modern research has borne out what ancients knew:
Sound waves created by certain tones shift our brainwaves from
the beta state (normal consciousness) to the relaxed theta state and
the deeply restorative delta. Today, sound therapy is based on the
Solfeggio frequencies, a sequence of harmonic tones derived from the
chants of 11th century Benedictine monks. Each frequency (measured
in units of Hertz) has a different therapeutic benefit. Here’s your
musical cheat sheet to achieving tranquility.
Where to Tune In
174 Hz: Often described as energetic anesthesia, this low
frequency relaxes muscles to relieve tension and pain.
285 Hz: Regenerates tissues and enhances the immune system
to leave you feeling energized.
396 Hz: Associated with the root chakra, this vibration alleviates
feelings of fear and anxiety.
417 Hz: Wipes out negative energy and thoughts.
528 Hz: Known as the miracle tone, it has been used by
biochemists to repair DNA.
639 Hz: Connected to the heart chakra, this vibration
stimulates compassion.
741 Hz: Hones focus and encourages self-expression.
852 Hz: Helps tap into our intuition.
963 Hz: Activates the pineal gland in our brain, which regulates
melatonin, a hormone that regulates sleep.
Sound bathing has become as common as massage therapies
at these top spas around the globe.
Spa Alkemia at ZADÚN, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE
in San José del Cabo, Mexico, has a dedicated
sound therapy room with a vibrating floor. A
therapist customizes blocks of pre-recorded music
set to specific frequencies based on your needs
(restoration, calm). As you lie on the floor, you’ll feel
the vibrations and sounds resonating throughout your
body to relax both muscles and mind. Think of it as a
musical massage. ritzcarlton.com
LOS CABOS AIRPORT: 14 miles
Home to the first international outpost of NYC’s
cult spa, The Well, HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA, AN
AUBERGE RESORT takes advantage of its stunning
natural setting on 180 acres in southern Costa Rica.
Immersive treatments include soaking in a riverside
tub and allowing the sounds of the babbling water
and singing birds to cleanse your aura. After, tack
on a lunar gong bath ceremony to restore energetic
balance in the body. aubergeresorts.com
PEREZ ZELEDÓN AIRPORT: 14 miles
Created exclusively for One&Only Resorts, Nature’s
Resonance by ESPA offered at ONE&ONLY ROYAL
MIRAGE in Dubai draws on the therapeutic powers
of binaural beats, the Solfeggio scale and the
natural sounds and rhythms of Arabia to help
restore harmonious balance to body and mind.
Guests can choose to add an element of touch and
have the therapist use gentle flowing movements
across the face and body that mirror the rhythm of
the music. oneandonlyresorts.com
DUBAI AIRPORT: 19 miles
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LIVING WELL
THESE TRIPS WILL
LITERALLY CHANGE
YOUR LIFE
The newest retreats are focused on long-term habit change rather than quick fixes.
GRAND RESORT BAD RAGAZ,
SWITZERLAND
Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, one hour outside
Zurich, this palatial spa-retreat has a team of
doctors specializing in everything from neurology
to orthopedics. The signature NEWYOU Method is
rooted in creating lifestyle transformation based on
eight protective factors (restorative sleep, exercise)
that boost physical and psychological health. The
four-day My Microbiome package, for example,
restores your gut flora’s natural balance through
gastrointestinal examinations and custom meals,
while nutritional coaching provides you tools to
maintain a nutritious diet back home. resortragaz.ch
ZURICH AIRPORT: 67 miles
JOALI BEING, MALDIVES
Located on the 24-acre island of Muravandhoo
in the northern fringes of the Raa Atoll, the
Maldives’s first legit wellness resort offers fivenight
to three-week immersions around themes
such as weight rebalance and energy. A series of
diagnostics inform custom itineraries that might
include herbology workshops, movement classes,
massages, and sound bathing sessions. There’s
plenty of downtime to soak in the sea views from
your overwater bungalow. joali.com
MALÉ AIRPORT, then seaplane transfer
LANSERHOF TEGERNSEE, GERMANY
The philosophy at this super stylish, 70-room
health resort in the Bavarian Alps is “restart your
life.” Programs around psyche and emotions aim
to help people overcome self-doubt, anxiety, and
burnout. Hikes and bike rides on the surrounding
forest trails melt away stress, while one-onone
sessions with psychotherapists and mental
coaches teach self-management skills. A sister
property will open on the north German island of
Sylt later this year.
lanserhof.com
MUNICH AIRPORT: 55 miles
CANYON RANCH LENOX,
MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.
Fresh off a massive remodel, this wellness
institution in the bucolic Berkshires recently
introduced custom Pathways programming that
tackles everything from reconnecting with joy to
lifestyle resets. The latter chart a new course
to wellbeing under the guidance of a licensed
therapist and spiritual wellness provider. You’ll go
home with a customized exercise program, nutrition
game plan, and behavioral therapy techniques.
canyonranch.com
ALBANY AIRPORT: 51 miles
ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA, MEXICO
Hidden away on its own private island among the
resort’s freshwater lagoon, Sense Spa hosts habitchanging
retreats like the three-day Journey to
Resilience. Days start with stretching and lectures
on aligning intentions and end with vibrational
therapies that ensure a deep sleep. Ayurveda
aromatherapy massages and prana rituals will
calm the nervous system. Indulging in a tequila
and mezcal tasting isn’t frowned upon, and there’s
abundant free time to enjoy the championship golf
course and beach. rosewoodhotels.com
CANCUN AIRPORT: 28 miles
LONDOLOZI, SABI SANDS GAME
RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA
A safari lodge may seem an unlikely place for a
wellness reboot, but Londolozi goes deeper than
your typical game drive and sundowner itinerary.
The family-run, Relais & Châteaux lodge is a
pioneer in wellness safaris that tap into the healing
powers of nature. Five-day retreats run by master
life coach and Londolozi co-owner Boyd Varty
deliver exceptional wildlife sightings (hippo, rhino,
lions) as well as skills to teach you how to use your
body’s compass to navigate the uncertainties of
life. londolozi.com
SKUKUZA AIRPORT: 29 miles
GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT,
QUEENSLAND, AUSTRALIA
Set high on a plateau on 500 acres of the forested
Tallebudgera Valley, this celebrated eco-spa even
has three dedicated meditation suites designed
for more mindful living. Three-night Condition
your Calm retreats are led by Dr. Libby Weaver,
a nutritional biochemist and one of the resort’s
original founders. You’ll learn how stress affects
our hormones, plus strategies for avoiding adrenal
fatigue. The Crystal Steam Room at the spa is the
ultimate way to let go of any current anxieties.
gwinganna.com
GOLD COAST AIRPORT: 12 miles
SENSEI PORCUPINE CREEK,
RANCHO MIRAGE, CALIFORNIA
Tech billionaire Larry Ellison’s second Sensei
retreat, a collaboration with renowned cancer
researcher Dr. David Agus, opens this November
on his 230-acre estate in the Coachella Valley.
Optimal Wellbeing packages require a minimum
five-night commitment. Pre-arrival, guests receive
a Whoop 4.0 strap to track their fitness, sleep,
and recovery. Sensei’s team of nutritionists,
mindfulness coaches, and exercise physiologists
analyze your data to create a program of thermal
body mapping, yoga, strength training, and healthy
meals created by Nobu Matsuhisa designed to
achieve your wellbeing goals. sensei.com
PALM SPRINGS AIRPORT: 10 miles
ROWS FROM LEFT: JORMA MUELLER, © JOALI, © GWINGANNA, NICOLE LOEB, © CHRISTOPH INGENHOVEN, © ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA, TANVEER BADAL, AMANDA RITCHIE
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REMARKABLE RETREATS:
Clockwise, from top left: Grand Resort Bad Ragaz; Joali Being; Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat; Canyon Ranch Lenox; Londolozi, Sabi Sands Game Reserve; Sensei Porcupine
Creek; Rosewood Mayakoba; Lanserhof Sylt; the plunge pool at Londolozi
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ON LOCATION
ISLE OF
WONDER
Long treasured by royals and A-listers, the Greek island
of Corfu is back in the spotlight, pairing superlative villas
and hotels with deliciously fresh cuisine and endless
natural splendor. // By Alexander Lobrano
VANGELIS PATERAKIS
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GREEN PARADISE
View across the tree-lined
hills from the pool at Angsana,
south of Corfu Town.
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ON LOCATION
SECLUDED MAJESTY
The newly unveiled Villa Gaia in Nissaki,
left; alfresco dining at Avli, below;
whitewashed splendor of Villa Apasa,
facing page.
© VILLA COLLECTIVE
YOU MIGHT CALL IT the Empress Sisi factor, because ever since
the Austrian Empress Elisabeth fell in love with Corfu and built
the Villa Achilleion, her summer house, here in 1890, the island
has appealed to people with the most discerning tastes. This has
included writers like Goethe, Oscar Wilde, Lawrence Durrell, and
Henry Miller as well as other aristocrats, notably Germany’s Kaiser
Wilhelm II and the Greek royal family, which is why Britain’s late
Prince Philip was born at Mon Repos, their summer estate. While
you don’t need a title to fall in love with the northernmost of the
Ionian islands, which form a green necklace off the western coast
of the Greek mainland, Corfu might still become your muse. As
Gerald Durrell, the naturalist, put it, “Gradually the magic of the
island settled over us as gently and clingingly as pollen.”
Corfu pairs a verdant beauty, created by its vast olive groves
occasionally dramatically dotted by cypress trees, with a
cosmopolitan personality, which comes from having been part of
the Venetian Republic for around 400 years, and then variously
ruled by France and England before becoming part of Greece in
1864. The long narrow island also ticks all the boxes as the perfect
Mediterranean holiday destination, with stunning beaches, great
food and wine, a lively and historic main town, and every activity
you might want from boating to hiking, diving, horseback riding,
and golf—very rare for a Greek island—at the Corfu Golf Club
(corfugolfclub.com). Best of all, perhaps, is the island’s laidback
but sophisticated atmosphere.
COSTAS ECONOMOU
WHERE TO STAY
The best way to enjoy Corfu is to stay in one of the many magnificent
luxury rental villas that are scattered across the island, with the
most preferred area being the northeast coast around Kassiopi,
where the Rothschilds, among other swells, have a villa.
Villa Collective (villacollective.com) has a stunning catalogue of
Corfu residences, including the new-this-year Villa Gaia, in Nissaki.
It sleeps eight across four bedrooms and comes with sea views, a
40-foot swimming pool and direct access to the sea. Just below the
house, nestled among the olive trees at sea level is a dining terrace,
with its own barbecue area and beach bar.
Another one of its signature properties is the stunningly luxurious
Villa Apasa, an ultra-modern complex built into the cliffside in
Nissaki. It comes with six bedrooms, sitting room with grand piano,
tiered infinity pool, and a glassed-in outdoor elevator to the sea
and a private sunbathing terrace. It is fully staffed, too, including
a private chef.
The Thinking Traveller’s new villa for 2022 (thethinkingtraveller.
com) is Barbanichos, a beautifully restored old Corfiot country
estate with a private pool with sea views and four bedrooms.
This secluded, pretty property in a rural setting is ideal for anyone
who wants to channel their inner Durrell, or have an authentic
intemporal experience of the island, albeit with all creature
comforts. Sleeps eight.
Another superb address that’s far from the madding crowds is
The Rou Estate (rouestate.com), a private spread in northeastern
Corfu with 16 houses and outbuildings and spectacular panoramic
views of the sea and neighboring Albania that were built over two
centuries ago. A British architect and his Dutch wife bought the
property in 2005 and have assiduously renovated the old houses
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HENRY WOIDE
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ON LOCATION
and buildings with an eye for authenticity, good taste, and low-key
luxury. Plumbago, which has superb views, five bedrooms and an
infinity pool, is a standout among the rental properties here.
For those who prefer hotels, Corfu’s rather sedate scene got a
welcome jolt of younger energy when the new 159-room Angsana
(angsana.com) opened on a pretty private beach overlooking
Benitses Bay just south of Corfu Town last year, along with 37
luxury villa homes. One of the Singapore-based Banyan Tree hotel
group’s brands, it is the first location in Europe, and its Asian
DNA is reflected by Zen room decors in schemes of taupe and
cream. It has both an indoor—the hotel’s open year-round—and
outdoor pool, a spa with 11 treatment rooms, with an extensive
treatment menu, and a yoga deck. Bathrooms are paneled in white
marble and some have egg-shaped soaking tubs. Four restaurants,
including one by local star Ettore Botrini, and an Asian-fusion table,
mean you can eat brilliantly without going out, and the rooftop bar
is blissful on warm summer nights.
Located in southern Corfu, the 113-key Domes Miramare, a
Luxury Collection Resort (domesmiramare.com) overlooks its
own private beach in Moraitika. The charismatic yet unpretentious
property was once owned by the Onassis family and was popular
with celebrities in the 1960s and 70s. Now it attracts smart,
stylish big-city couples—it is adults-only—who want some
serious downtime in a beautiful, cosseting place. Rooms are
pristine, minimalist, and mostly all white, and the best are the
seaview rooms or waterfront pavilions, where you can stretch out
on chaises longues and destress in your private hot tub or pool. In
addition to the excellent Makris restaurant, which serves a variety
of Greek, Corfiot, and Mediterranean dishes, the hotel has a firstrate
sushi-and-cocktail bar and a splendid pool bar. The hotel
also has a small spa and organizes a variety of exclusive activities
and day trips, including a visit to Corfu’s best organic farm and
restaurant and excursions on the hotel’s own boat, assuming, of
course, that you’ll be able to tear yourself away from your sun
lounger and views of the sparkling aquamarine Ionian Sea.
ISLAND BEAUTY
Clockwise from top left: the stylish
interior of Villa Gaia; Paleokastritsa
Monastery, perched on high; a pool at
Domes Miramare, A Luxury Collection
Resort; aerial view of Ipapanti Church
in Corfu’s Gouvia region.
WHERE TO EAT
Corfu is a food-lover’s paradise, and the Corfiot kitchen reflects the
island’s strategic location at the entrance to the Adriatic Sea and
also the culinary traditions of the island’s many rulers, including
the Byzantine Empire, the Venetian Republic, and even France
and Britain. Two dishes to look out for are “stufato,” a rich Ionian
stew with Italian origins, and pasta dishes such as “pastitsio”—a
macaroni, ragú, and béchamel dish. Corfiot wines improve
constantly, too, and Theotoky (theotoky.com) is one producer to
look out for, because its organic wines are excellent, the reason
why the renowned wine expert and bon vivant James Bond asks
for a glass of Theotoky aspro in “For Your Eyes Only.”
Corfu Town is the island’s restaurant capital with many excellent
eateries, including The Venetian Well (venetianwell.gr), which is
located on Kremasti Square next to the well from which it takes its
name and serves ambitious and well-executed contemporary Greek
cooking, including dishes like scorpion-fish bourdeto with shrimpstuffed
zucchini-blossom tempura.
Seafood lovers should make a beeline for Fishalida
(fishalidacorfu.gr), a beautifully decorated fish house next to
the fish market in Corfu’s old town, for good-quality reasonably
priced dishes, including barbecued prawns and smoked swordfish
carpaccio with orange vinaigrette and kumquat, while Marina’s
Tavern (fb.com/marinastavern) in the old Jewish quarter of Corfu
Town is the ideal place to have a late lunch, which is what the
locals do. Settle into the simple dining room here, and order
delicious meze like taramasalata with marinated anchovies along
with nourishing pies from owner Marina’s native Epirus region, and
braised lamb with artichokes.
Just a short stroll from the old town of Corfu, Avli (avlicorfu.
com) is a local favorite for its seaside setting and delicious dishes
such as “bouyiourdi” (baked feta with spicy peppers) and pork fillet
with kumquat and cream milk.
If you’re exploring the lush green interior of the island and want a
good lunch, head for Taverna Elisabeth (fb.com/tavernaelisabeth)
Corfu is a food-lover’s paradise, and
and the Corfiot kitchen reflects the
island’s strategic location.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © VILLA COLLECTIVE, EUGENE GURKOV / ALAMY, © DOMES MIRAMARE, ISTOCK
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ON LOCATION
in the little village of Doukades. This simple, friendly taverna serves
up authentic home-style Corfiot country cooking, including dishes
like “pastitsada” (a spicy meat-tomato pasta dish). The best tables
overlook the village square. And for a sweet timeout, stop at Dolce
(corfudolce.com) in the hilltop village of Lakones. It serves what
many consider to be the island’s best ice cream on an open-air
terrace with great views over the Bay of Paleokastritsa.
Seaside dining on freshly landed fish and seafood is one of
the great pleasures of any visit to Corfu. In Benitses, Klimataria
(klimataria-restaurant.gr) is a matchbook 11-table restaurant
locally regarded as one of Corfu’s top fish tavernas. Don’t miss the
superb “xtapodi ksidato” (thin-sliced octopus in vinegar) or “psari
bianco” (fish in white sauce stew). Reservations essential.
In stylish Agni on Corfu’s northeastern coast, Taverna Agni
(tavernaagni.com) serves delicious shrimp saganaki and a catchof-the-day
menu complemented by dishes made with organically
grown vegetables. Family owned and run since 1972, it’s accessible
by water taxi from Corfu Town from May to October.
Corfu doesn’t really do see-and-be-seen restaurants like Saint-
Tropez or Mykonos, but Toula’s (toulasagni.com), also in Agni, is
a chic seaside taverna that pulls the yachting crowd, along with
visiting celebrities and London hipsters. Expect delicious fish
dishes, the freshness of which is reflected by their hefty prices.
In the seaside town of Dassia, Etrusco (etrusco.gr) is perhaps
Corfu’s most famous restaurant, and the one that all of the
yacht owners want to eat at when they visit the island. Corfiot-
Italian chef Ettore Botrini grew up on the island but has worked
in France and Spain, including a stint with Michelin three-star
chef Martin Berasategui. His brilliant and intelligently inventive
locavore cooking, including dishes like swordfish carpaccio with
“neratzosalata” (orange salad) and salicornia, and roast lamb with
couscous, makes this a destination-dining address, so advance
booking is imperative.
WHERE TO DRINK AND MEET UP
Meeting up for a coffee or a cocktail is a Corfiot reflex that reflects
the relaxed sociability of life on the island. Corfu Town offers a
variety of delightful settings in which to pause and watch the world
go by. Cafe Kohlias (fb.com/cafekohlias) in the elegant Frenchbuilt
Liston arcade, which recalls the similar establishment along
the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, is an ideal perch for people-watching in
Spianada Square over a well-made iced espresso or a tangerine
cocktail. Also on Spianada Square, the sixth-floor rooftop bar of
the Cavalieri Hotel (open from June to October, cavalierihotel.gr)
offers gorgeous views of the square, the Ionian Sea, and the Old
Fortress, and they pour a good selection of wines by the glass. Cafe
Bristol (fb.com/bristolcafecorfu) in Corfu Town attracts a stylish
young crowd of locals, expats, and visitors and sometimes has live
music. Try the signature Monkey & the Beans cocktail, which is an
espresso Martini with Tia Maria. For glamorous sundowners, head
for the popular La Grotta Bar (lagrottabar.com), which overlooks a
beautiful cove, or maybe Nagual (fb.com/nagualbeachbarcorfu), a
lively bar on the edge of sandy Kontogialos Beach, which aces any
traditional cocktail and also mixes some really inventive new ones.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
It’s a pleasure to wander the old town of Corfu, its hive-like jumble
of architectural styles so eloquent in explaining its history, from
narrow alleys to elegant Venetian palazzos, an English cricket
green, and the très Parisian Liston arcade. Be sure to visit the
Church of Saint Spyridon (agios.imcorfu.gr) to pay your respects
to Corfu’s patron saint, and don’t miss one of the best collections
of Asian art in Europe at the Corfu Museum of Asian Art (matk.
ALAMY
BLUE HEAVEN
Clockwise from above: La Grotta
Bar ensconced in a beautiful cove;
ceramics works in Myrto Zirini’s
workshop; Pontikonisi isle, just off
Corfu’s east coast.
gr), which was installed in the Palace of St. Michael and St. George
after Gregorios Manos, a former Greek ambassador to Austria,
donated his collection of Sino-Japanese art to the nation in 1928,
and has sinced been enhanced by further donations from around
the continent. Three miles south of Corfu Town in Gastouri, the
elegant white neo-classical Achilleion (achillion-corfu.gr), built as
a summer home for Empress Elisabeth of Austria, at the suggestion
of the Austrian consul Alexander von Warsberg, is currently closed
for renovations, but its reopening is expected this autumn.
From the Achilleion, it’s a 17-mile drive north to the beautiful
bay at Paleokastritsa, an ideal place for a swim before or after
a visit to the Paleokastritsa Monastery, a tranquil pastel-colored
13th-century building on a hillside a 15-minute walk uphill from
the beach. Come for the spectacular views and friendly monks,
who will show you their garden. There’s also a small museum with
some very beautiful ancient icons, and quite oddly, a complete
whale skeleton. Finally, a swim in the Canal d’Amour, a striking
cove carved by erosion into the golden sandstone of Sidari Beach
on northwestern Corfu is an experience of the island at its primal
best. In a similar vein, even if you can only manage a small part
of it, the well-marked 135-mile Corfu Trail (thecorfutrail.com) is a
brilliant way of discovering this stunningly beautiful island.
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WHERE TO SHOP
The most obvious thing to bring home from a trip to Corfu is
a bottle of olive oil or two, maybe from the organic Bioporos
(bioporos.gr) farm in southwestern Corfu, but the island has
other treasures. Kumquats were introduced to Corfu by Venetian
merchants trading with China, and the trees flourished here,
with their fruit becoming a part of the local diet. One of the
best kumquat products is the cream liqueur made from the
fruit by the Lazaris Distillery & Artisan Sweets Brand-Store
(lazarisartisan.com). A perfect tipple on the rocks on a hot
summer night, it’s also delicious poured over ice cream.
It’s likely that you’ll come across the work of ceramicist
Myrto Zirini (myrtozirini.gr) more than once during any visit
to Corfu, since her minimalist-style ceramics with a decidedly
Mediterranean aesthetic are simply beautiful and look as
good in a Corsican villa as they do in a Knightsbridge flat
or Manhattan penthouse. You can watch her at work in her
waterfront workshop in Corfu Town’s Mouragia neighborhood.
Take home some Corfu chic by stopping by Leather Trinkets
(leathertrinkets.com), where jewelry maker Marie Vaggalati
makes beautiful handmade pieces inspired by Greek design
tradition, Byzantine art, and book binding.
IOANNIS KAPODISTRIAS AIRPORT TO CORFU TOWN: 2 miles
ISTOCK
COURTESY MYRTO ZIRINI
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ON THE PULSE
TIME
TO RALLY
The latest sporty timepieces for men
and women court a certain sense of style.
Photography by Xavier Young // Production by Elisa Vallata
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Above, from top:
Facing page, from top:
CARL F. BUCHERER
Manero Flyback with
43 mm stainless-steel
case; blue dial; selfwinding
chronograph
movement with flyback
function; date at
6 o’clock; stainlesssteel
strap.
HERMÈS
H08 with 39 x 39 mm cushionshaped,
satin-brushed
titanium case with matt-black
DLC coating; sunburst
satin-brushed titanium bezel;
black nickel-coated dial;
self-winding movement; orange
rubber strap.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Royal Oak “Jumbo”
Extra-Thin, with 39 mm
platinum case; smokedgreen
dial with sunburst
base; white-gold hourmarkers
and hands with
luminescent coating;
platinum bracelet.
PATEK PHILIPPE
Ref. 5905, with 42 mm steel
case; sapphire crystal caseback;
sunburst olive-green
dial; self-winding flyback
chronograph movement with
annual calendar; steel
bracelet with polished and
satin finishes.
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ON THE PULSE
Above, from top:
ULYSSE NARDIN
Diver X Skeleton with 44 mm blue
PVD and blue carbonium case;
concave inverted unidirectional
rotating bezel; hands coated with
Super-LumiNova; self-winding
skeleton movement; water-resistant
to 200m; blue rubber strap. Limited
to 175 pieces.
CHOPARD
Alpine Eagle XL Chrono with
44 mm Lucent Steel A223 case;
sapphire crystal case-back; brass
dial stamped with an Aletsch blue
sunburst pattern; self-winding
movement with flyback and
stop-seconds function; Lucent
Steel A223 bracelet.
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Clockwise, from top:
ZENITH
Defy 21 Chroma with 44 mm mattwhite
ceramic case; rainbow-colored
self-winding 1/100th of a second
chronograph movement; rhodiumplated
hour-markers coated with
rainbow varnish; white rubber strap
with Cordura effect and
rainbow stitching.
GERALD CHARLES
GC Sport with 39 x 41.7 mm polished
grade 5 titanium ultra-thin case;
screw down left-hand side crown
with embossed logo; royal blue
sunburst dial; hands and indexes
filled with Super-LumiNova; selfwinding,
shock-resistant movement;
royal blue rubber strap.
HUBLOT
Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic
with 42 mm satin-finished and
polished blue ceramic case; matt
blue skeleton dial; self-winding
chronograph flyback movement;
date at 3 o’clock; water-resistant
to 100m; satin-finished and
polished blue ceramic bracelet.
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61

GOURMET GUIDE
THE LURE
OF
LISBON
HAYLEY KELSING; FACING PAGE: FABIANA KOCUBEY
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Fresh ingredients, bold ideas, and captivating design:
the Portuguese capital’s culinary scene has never
been tastier. // By Ivan Carvalho
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GOURMET GUIDE
FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA
TIAGO MAYA
LISBON LIGHTS
Clockwise from top left: the view from
Bahr; a cocktail from Monkey Mash;
Tiago Penão of Kappo; facing page:
Praia no Parque.
Previous pages: Inside Praia no Parque;
Alentejo cuisine at Taberna do Calhau.
© KAPPO
PERHAPS NOT SINCE Portugal’s famed Age of
Discovery has the country’s capital seen such an
upsurge in activity as the past decade, as Lisbon’s
once relatively sleepy hospitality scene has become
supercharged with an explosion of eateries and
bars spearheaded by a new generation of chefs,
restaurateurs, and sommeliers. The tourism boom
of recent years, only temporarily halted due to the
pandemic, has delivered a fresh crop of ideas into
the kitchen to challenge taste buds.
More evidence of this surge can be seen in the
recent Phaidon release “Portugal, The Cookbook,”
an appetizing tome of over 550 recipes from
chef Leandro Carreira and food storyteller Miguel
Andrade that details the rich gastronomic history
of the Iberian nation and its many influences
dating back centuries as seafarers explored the
globe and brought back new ingredients.
Today, travelers to Lisbon have a front-row seat
to a new age of experimentation in the dining room.
WHERE TO DINE
Signs of Lisbon’s meteoric rise on the
gastronomic front are perhaps best encapsulated
in a dining experience at Fifty Seconds
(fiftysecondsexperience.com), a project from
Basque chef Martín Berasategui. Perched in the
Vasco da Gama Tower 120 meters above sea
level, the plush 35-seat space provides expansive
views of the Tagus River. Overseeing duties at the
one-star Michelin establishment is chef Filipe
Carvalho, whose exquisite lobster with rice in a
champagne emulsion has won many plaudits
and sees regular clients popping in on a near
weekly basis to savor it.
Carvalho also keeps busy as a consultant,
as summer 2022 sees him assisting the
transformation of classic seafood eatery Nunes
Real Marisqueira (nunesmarisqueira.pt), which
is set for an Art Deco layout at a new address
in the Belém district. Nunes wins over even the
THE MAN ABOUT TOWN
Miguel Abalroado
HOW HAS LISBON’S DINING SCENE
CHANGED IN THE PAST DECADE?
Before, it was impossible to find great local
produce. Today, the best restaurants have
their local suppliers. Chefs are creating
original concepts without the need to copy
what comes from abroad.
HOW DOES LISBON COMPARE
AGAINST OTHER EUROPEAN
CAPITALS WHEN EATING OUT? We
are a cosmopolitan, multicultural city and
are very welcoming. Like London, here you
find great Chinese, Japanese and Indian/
Goan cuisine. Fine dining has been growing
steadily with places like Belcanto, Epur, and
Fifty Seconds.
WHERE HAVE YOU ENJOYED EATING
RECENTLY? Boi-Cavalo blends creative
food with the best playlist in town. O Velho
Eurico embodies the essence of the new
“tasca” (the casual, informal Portuguese
eatery) with an environment where food
meets a party atmosphere.
A devoted gourmand, Abalroado runs Lemon
Zest, a consulting agency working with top
chefs and restaurants. lemonzest.pt
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THE RESTAURATEUR
Nuno Santana
WHAT’S THE CONCEPT BEHIND
PRAIA NO PARQUE? It’s in one of the
city’s most beautiful venues, right in the
heart of Eduardo VII Park. At night, it is all
about delicious food, wines, and cocktails,
and an eclectic mix of DJ beats. During
the day, you can have a relaxing lunch or
late-afternoon aperitif. At dusk, it’s perfect
to dine on the velvet benches integrated
into the original 1950s porticoes.
HOW HAS THE LOCAL RESTAURANT
BUSINESS CHANGED RECENTLY? In
the past ten years, Lisbon has evolved
into a cosmopolitan hub. Chefs and top
managers fell in love with the city. I believe
there will be significant growth again in
business for the major hospitality groups.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE DISH
THESE DAYS? I like timeless,
uncomplicated cuisine. I order the
tournedos steak rare with a well-seasoned
green salad on the side.
Santana is co-founder of restaurant group
Grupo Praia. apraia.pt
HAYLEY KELSING

FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA
GOURMET GUIDE
CITY HIGHLIGHTS
Clockwise from above: Nuno Mendes’s
Bahr; escabeche of quail and pickled
blackberries from that restaurant;
Leopoldo Garcia Calhau in his
epnoymous tavern; Belcanto, José
Avillez’s prized eatery.
most committed carnivores with superb fresh
specimens of langoustine, spider crab, and
“percebes” (gooseneck barnacles).
For a more luxe experience there is JNcQuoi
Asia (jncquoi.com), which is part of the JNcQuoi
hospitality group from Paula Amorim, whose
family is the world’s leading producer of cork
stoppers. Her Eastern-influenced establishment
offers all-day dining on Avenida da Liberdade
in lush surroundings. There are sushi starters—
tuna with katsuobushi, lemon, and truffle oil—
dumplings, curries, and a yummy Hainanese
chicken with ginger and perfumed rice.
Outside the city, in nearby Cascais, Tiago Penão
at Kappo (kappo.pt) keeps fans of Nippon cooking
content with his work behind the counter. Pull up
for an omakase lunch before heading to the beach.
Back in Lisbon, venture up the hill to Chiado
and into one of the crown jewels of Portuguese
fine dining, Belcanto (belcanto.pt) by chef José
Avillez. Owner of two Michelin stars, the pioneering
Avillez has reworked his menu of late—sample the
scarlet shrimp curry, apple, and hibiscus, or hake
with coriander sauce. Book his Chef’s Table for a
ringside view of the goings-on in the kitchen.
At nearby Bairro Alto Hotel, longtime London
resident Nuno Mendes has set up Bahr (bahr.
pt) on the fifth floor. Guests should start at the
terrace bar—sip a crisp Alvarinho from winery
Cortinha Velha and soak up the Lisbon skyline.
Inside, the wood-themed décor with geometric
parquet and open kitchen preps one for fun
starter snacks (anyone for the pica-pau raw beef
taco with Azorean pineapple?). Among the main
THE CHEF
Marlene Vieira
WHAT IS THE CONCEPT BEHIND
YOUR NEW RESTAURANT, MARLENE?
It’s a summary of my personal history, from
my early training in classical French cooking
to relying on quality, seasonal ingredients
and Portuguese traditions, including
references to typical foods we eat at Sunday
lunches when families come together.
WHAT IS A FAVORITE DISH YOU ARE
NOW SERVING? One I like a lot is filhós
de berbigão à Bulhão Pato, a kind of cockle
doughnut inspired by filhós, fried-dough
desserts normally consumed at Christmas,
and Bulhão Pato sauce, made with
cilantro, olive oil, and garlic and named
after a 19th-century Portuguese poet.
YOUR DESSERT COOKBOOK “OS
DOCES DA CHEF MARLENE” OFFERS
80 RECIPES. A FAVORITE? Pudim
Abade de Priscos, a very rich crème
caramel pudding that includes port wine
and lard among its ingredients.
Besides her new gourmet establishment,
Marlene, Vieira runs the seafood-focused
Zunzum gastrobar and a stand in Lisbon’s
Time Out Market. marlenevieira.pt
courses are wild turbot in a green kale sauce with
chorizo and the perennial salted codfish known
throughout Portugal—here it’s prepared with
white corn porridge and razor clams.
Across the street is the cozy and informal
Taberna da Rua das Flores (tberna.com) with its
traditional azulejo-tile flooring. Managed by André
Magalhães, the food and wine writer-turned-chef,
the offer veers towards “petiscos” (Portuguesestyle
tapas): mackerel tartare, gazpacho, local
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© BAHR
AXELLE MANFRINI
TOP TIPPLES
GAMBRINUS
Decidedly old school in its décor, this
wood-paneled restaurant dating from the
1930s in the heart of Baixa in downtown
Lisbon hosts a cozy bar with a dozen
leather seats at the counter and is steeped
in tradition. Nibble on meat croquettes,
slices of presunto and buttered toast while
sipping on a draft beer or a Porto Tónico, a
tried-and-trusted cocktail made with white
port. gambrinuslisboa.com
RED FROG
Co-owner and barman Paulo Gomes has
created a sought-after speakeasy concept
that, since opening in 2015, has stood easily
above the competition. A select number of
small bite-sized foods are on the menu but
the real treat here is the drinks lineup. Enjoy
an American Gangster, made with Bulleit
bourbon and a single vintage madeira made
with malvasia, or sample the collection of
barrel-aged cocktails. Reservations required
and chic attire recommended. redfrog.pt
SENHOR UVA
Run by Quebec natives Stéphanie Audet and
Marc Davidson, this boutique wine bar does
fabulous vegetarian nibbles to pair with
its formidable list of vintages hailing from
natural vintners. Located in the Estrela
neighborhood, the establishment has a
cosmopolitan wait staff ready to pour lowintervention
juice from producers such as
Aphros, a winery in Minho, and winemaker
António Madeira, with his assortment of
wines from the Dão appellation.
senhoruva.com
MONKEY MASH
Upon entering, one is quickly caught up
in the cool, tropical vibe at Monkey Mash
thanks to its colorful interior marked by
vibrant murals. The illustrated drinks
menu is an eye-catcher and preps the
palate for the serious sensory experience
to come. Cocktails rely on exotic spirits
so prepare for mixes sporting tequila or
cachaça—have a sip of Two Different and
its sugarcane spirit blended with coconut,
celery, and dry madeira. monkeymash.pt
© GRUPO JOSÉ AVILLEZ
DAHLIA
Close to the hustle and bustle of Cais do
Sodré, Dahlia serves up a delectable menu
of small bites such as seared shrimp with
chili bisque and kimchi to accompany its
eclectic assortment of by-the-glass wines.
Sample sparkling rosé from Catalonia or an
orange-style variety from COZs near Lisbon.
The establishment offers an impressive
vinyl collection on a hi-fi sound system
fronted by McIntosh amps and Tannoy
Lancaster speakers. dahlialisboa.com
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GOURMET GUIDE
THE VISIONARY
João Rodrigues
WHY DID YOU START PROJECTO
MATÉRIA? It was born out of professional
necessity. I was working at Feitoria and
wanted diners to have an experience
focused on Portugal. I was in need of a good
network of local food suppliers. In the past,
fine-dining places here often looked abroad
for some ingredients. I created a database
by searching out national producers.
WHAT LOCAL INGREDIENTS DO
YOU PRIZE THE MOST? Portugal has
a privileged geography in front of the
Atlantic. We have a rich collection of
seafood that varies as you move from
the coast out to deep water. Percebes,
salmonetes, and corvina are some of the
local varieties worth trying.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE
PORTUGUESE COMFORT FOOD?
Cabidela, a dish made with poultry that
is cooked using the animal’s blood and
served with rice.
Michelin-star chef Rodrigues is the
founder of Projecto Matéria, a nonprofit
that promotes national producers
with good agricultural practices.
projectomateria.pt
RUSTIC GLORY
The old vines at
Ramilo Wines.
cheese platters, and sardines on toast. The same
relaxed vibe is found at Taberna do Calhau (fb.
com/leopoldogarciacalhau/) in Mouraria within
a backdrop of family mementos, marble-top
tables and bar-stool seating. Owner Leopoldo
Garcia Calhau recreates an Alentejo tavern with
inventive yet tradition-minded courses of roasted
pork cheek and ceviche-style hake with lemon,
olive oil, coriander, and egg.
Also keeping things decidedly dressed down
is Fogo (fogorestaurante.pt) from chef Alexandre
Silva. Despite an all-black interior more suited for
a dance club, diners are faced with an impressive
open kitchen where suckling pig, lamb, and fish are
done over open fires, grills or in traditional cast-iron
pots—don’t overlook the tasty slow-fermented bread.
For a more refined version of Silva’s philosophy,
head to the Estrela neighborhood and his 22-seat
Michelin-star Loco (loco.pt), a venue offering a
17-course tasting menu—recent highlights include
white shrimp with açorda but expect new entries as
seasonal ingredients dictate the menu.
Another talent of contemporary Portuguese
cuisine who champions fresh, farm-to-table produce
is chef João Sá at Sála (restaurantesala.pt). This
soft-spoken maestro has built up a following of
gourmands thanks to his innovative approach and
beautiful presentation. Standout dishes range from
his sublime octopus rice with toasted seaweed
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and citrus gel to pink Algarve shrimp served with
a sauce of moqueca, peanut, and coconut. For an
extra treat, reserve the two seats at the counter to
get a firsthand look at the food prep.
One more bright light not far from Sála’s door is
António Galapito, who leads a promising team at
Prado (pradorestaurante.com). The high-ceiling
space lets in natural light, giving foodies the
chance to immortalize on Instagram the perfectly
sized portions. Galapito’s phenomenal Azorean
squid with potato and ham butter has the texture
of pasta and seduces the taste buds. Paired with
refreshing wines from biodynamic and natural
winemakers, Prado’s offering provides further
proof that the Portuguese capital is heading in
the right direction foodwise.
THE SOMMELIER
Marc Pinto
WHAT PORTUGUESE BUBBLY DO YOU
RECOMMEND? Bairrada is obviously a
great region to try. Recently, I have been
pouring sparkling wines from the Távora-
Varosa appellation, which uses traditionalmethod
fermentation. It’s south of the
Douro region, sees cooler nights, and
produces sublime wines.
WHAT IS EXCITING ON THE LOCAL
WINE SCENE? Many people don’t know
that we have vineyards right here in the
Lisbon area. Villa Oeiras, run by the local
municipality, makes outstanding fortified
wines that are great for dessert pairings.
WHERE DO YOU GO ON YOUR DAY
OFF? In Lisbon, I like the wine list put
together by Marc Davidson at Senhor Uva.
The selections by the glass are always
interesting, with the focus on natural
wines, and the menu of vegetarian dishes
is very well done.
Pinto is head sommelier at the
Michelin-starred Fifty Seconds in Lisbon.
fiftysecondsexperience.com
REGIONAL WINERIES
© RAMILO WINES
VALE DA CAPUCHA
The family-run quinta of Pedro
Marques is in Torres Vedras, close
to the sea and only 45 minutes from
Lisbon. In 2006, Marques swapped
out higher yield red varieties to favor
lower quantity but higher quality white
grapes, including his delicious 100%
Arinto wine as well as bottles featuring
the gouveio and viosinho varieties.
His 32 acres of vineyards sit on claylimestone
soils and are influenced by a
temperate Atlantic climate.
valedacapucha.com
QUINTA DO MONTE D’OIRO
Named winery of the year in 2021 by
Portugal’s leading wine publication,
“Revista de Vinhos,” Monte d’Oiro has
made great strides in recent years
under the direction of the Bento dos
Santos family. Situated in Alenquer on
gentle slopes and subject to a more
Mediterranean climate, the organic
producer has had success making
elegant wines from international
varieties (syrah, viognier) as well as
local varietals touriga nacional and
tinta roriz. quintadomontedoiro.com
RAMILO WINES
The little-known Colares region is
steeped in history. Located north of
Sintra and next to the ocean, this is
continental Europe’s westernmost
appellation and its sandy soils
are famed for having resisted the
phylloxera plague—vines grow close
to the ground right on the dunes. The
Ramilo family has made great strides
of late with their standout malvasia
and a delicious rosé crafted from the
signature local variety, the red ramisco
grape. ramilowines.com
ADEGA MÃE
Anchored by a white modernist building
positioned on the hillside and providing
sweeping views of the vineyards,
Adega Mãe is a perfect getaway
from Lisbon. The winery’s 52-cover
restaurant has sleek wooden tabletops
where meals from brunch to dinner
are served. Its scrumptious fare, from
burrata with pesto to grilled fish and
lamb chops, is elegantly dressed up on
the plate and paired with house wines,
including the estate’s popular Dory
blends. adegamae.pt
VILLA OEIRAS
The tiny Carcavelos appellation right
next to Lisbon may not have the name
recognition of port and madeira, but
its fortified wine offerings are worth
a taste. The Marquis de Pombal was
a great proponent of viticulture here
and today the nearly extinct region has
received support from the local city
government. The Villa Oeiras winery
produces a superb sweet wine from
the galego dourado, ratinho, and arinto
varieties. villaoeiras.com
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TASTING NOTES
One of the pioneers of Paso Robles viticulture,
Eric Jensen continues to push his company,
Booker wines, to new highs. // By Jim Clarke
CALIFORNIA
DREAMING
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ALL IMAGES COURTESY BOOKER WINES
TASTING NOTES
PASO ROBLES, A HITHERTO RANCHING COMMUNITY known for its almond
orchards and oak-studded chaparral-carpeted hillsides midway
between San Francisco and Los Angeles, doesn’t lure visitors the
way wine regions like Napa and Santa Barbara do. But it does have
warm, sunny slopes and vine-friendly soils, as well as a community
that works together. It’s those qualities that led Eric Jensen there.
“My wife and I knew that Paso was where our heart was,”
says Jensen. “We had toured everywhere, and we ended up
getting married here.” So in 2001, having sold his concert festival
promotion company, they purchased a 100-acre property and
moved. “I became a farmer. For the first five years I was just
working every day, learning how to drive a tractor and farm vines.”
He named the ranch “Booker” after a pair of brothers who had
owned the land for most of the 20th century; generous supporters
of their neighbors, they donated all 1,200 acres of their land to
charity when they passed away—a spirit Jensen has tried to honor.
While grape growing was well established in Paso Robles by the
turn of the millennium, few wineries were based there, and wine
tourism was almost non-existent. “It was a horse town,” Jensen
says, “but there was a small population gathering that were likeminded,
and we just worked together and helped each other.”
Jensen fell in with two winemakers who were also at the
start of new projects, Justin Smith at Saxum Vineyards, and
Stephan Asseo at L’Aventure. They encouraged him to move
beyond grape growing into winemaking itself. His well-chosen site
showed it was capable of greatness from its first vintage, 2005,
earning big scores that “sent us into a different stratosphere.”
Booker has built on that success, taking a place as one of
the top wineries in Paso Robles and, for fans of grenache and
syrah, in all of California. The area’s potential for those so-called
Rhône varieties—grenache, syrah, as well as mourvèdre —had
been part of what drew Jensen to Paso Robles in the first place.
“I had only drunk cab and chard; I was just a typical
American. But, boy, when I had my first really good grenache
and my first syrah, I was just overwhelmed. I knew right away,
these were the grapes I wanted to grow.” Today the ranch has
60 acres of vineyards, almost all planted to Rhône varieties.
Jensen has farmed those grapes organically for 15 years,
and in 2021 the ranch became certified organic by California
Certified Organic Farmers. The farm also operates on solar
power, and Jensen is in the process of switching to all-electric
vehicles. “This is how we live our life. We’re not cuckoo, but
we’ve got a little hippy innocence.” That commitment to the land
is matched by a commitment to the community, and a portion of
every Booker sale goes to must! charities, which directs funding
and support into high-need projects in the Paso Robles area.
There is a personal aspect in much of Jensen’s work. My Favorite
Neighbor, a cabernet-based collection that began as a homage
to Stephan Asseo, now celebrates a handful of friends in the
surrounding area. And Jensen’s Harvey & Harriet project extends a
sense of community out to wine drinkers in general. Booker wines
command a premium in keeping with their ratings and desirability,
but the quality of wine Jensen sees at $30 and below bothers him.
“I realized I needed to get something in the $30 range because
in that range, it’s all this fake bulk juice—sweet wines that are
just Twinkies, Lucky Charms, and Apple Jacks. And then the
common consumer thinks that’s wine. I was just so appalled that
that portion of society was being left behind in the wine business.”
The resulting wine draws on organic grapes from his
ranch and others all around San Luis Obispo County. At
its core are cabernet sauvignon and syrah. “I didn’t want
anything over-extracted or massive; I wanted a reddish or
red and blue-fruited wine, not that overly black, heavy fruit.”
Harvey & Harriet is named for Jensen’s parents. He grew up with
eight siblings, crammed in a small house in San Dimas, California;
money was tight. “My mom and dad really loved a good glass of
wine, but they were picky. They rarely drank because they couldn’t
afford good wines. The second I started the winery they became
huge wine drinkers.” bookerwines.com; myfavoriteneighbor.com
WINE COUNTRY
The new visitor center and tasting area
add a new dimension to Booker wines;
previous page: Eric Jensen among his
vines in Paso Robles.
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“I had only drunk cab and chard;
I was just a typical American.
But, boy, when I had my first really good
grenache and my first syrah,
I was just overwhelmed.”
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INSIDE VIEW
WAY OUT WEST
The latest renovation of San Diego’s premier
repository of contemporary art promises to shine
a light on the California city’s finest.
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INSIDE VIEW
PHOTOGRAPH OF HON PAINTED OVER BY NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE, PHOTOGRAPH BY KATRIN BAUMANN, 1979, COLLECTION NIKI CHARITABLE ART FOUNDATION, SANTEE; PREVIOUS SPREAD: © JOHN VALADEZ, POOL PARTY, 1986
ABOVE
Niki de Saint Phalle’s
“Overpainted Photo
of Hon,” 1979.
FACING PAGE
John Baldessari’s “Terms Most
Useful in Describing Creative
Works of Art,” 1966-1968.
PREVIOUS PAGE
“Pool Party”
by John Valadez,
1986.
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COURTESY OF JOHN BALDESSARI
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INSIDE VIEW
LIGHTENING UP
San Diego often plays second fiddle to Los Angles and the Bay Area, but the developments
at The Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (MCASD) are aiming to change that,
at least for art lovers. In April, after a four-year $105-million renovation, MCASD’s
La Jolla HQ reopened, offering a new beacon for culture in the city. The seafront
building, originally an Irving Gill-designed residence, built in 1916 for philanthropist
Ellen Browning Scripps, has undergone several changes of identity since it became
The Art Center in La Jolla in 1941, but this latest refurbishment and expansion by
New York architecture firm Selldorf is the most dramatic improvement yet. The new
iteration—which is complemented by a second location in Downtown San Diego—
offers almost four times as much gallery space as previously available, including two
light-filled galleries as well as a public park and seaside terraces that make the most of
the museum’s spectacular Pacific Coast setting. Pride of place goes to the museum’s
impressive collection, which includes work from influential artists such as Ruth Asawa,
Lorna Simpson, Robert Irwin, Tschabalala Self, John Baldessari, and James Luna, which
now has the room to be displayed in its full magnificence. Alongside the permanent
pieces, curated temporary exhibitions will bring works from across the globe—the first
of which is dedicated to the French-American sculptor, painter, and filmmaker Niki de
Saint Phalle, who lived in San Diego for the latter part of her life. “Niki de Saint Phalle
in the 1960s” (until 17 July) celebrates her work from a vital period of a career that
embraced as many disciplines as it did causes—from feminism to climate change. The
1960s were a particularly fertile period that included her Tirs, or “shooting paintings,”
and the exuberant sculptures of women she called Nanas. The artist’s association with
the city was important in the selection of works for this inaugural show, emphasizing a
desire for the connection between the museum and its locality, while also broadening
its international appeal. mcasd.org
FACING PAGE
The Cohn Gallery
inside MCASD’s new
La Jolla flagship.
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NICHOLAS VENEZIA
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COURTESY TSCHABALALA SELF AND THIERRY GOLDBERG GALLERY
INSIDE VIEW
ABOVE
Tschabalala Self’s
“Evening,” 2019.
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© LARRY BELL 1964 © DE WAIN VALENTINE 1978, PHOTO BY PHILIPP SCHOLZ RITTERMANN
© AI WEIWEI, MUSEUM PURCHASE WITH FUNDS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY COLLECTORS
© PETER ALEXANDER
ABOVE
Clockwise, from top left:
De Wain Valentine’s
“Diamond Column,”1978;
“Orange Wedge” by
Peter Alexander, 1970;
Ai Weiwei’s “Marble
Chair,” 2010;
Larry Bell’s
“Untitled,” 1964.
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THE LAST WORD
RAFAEL NADAL
The tennis superstar on life away from the court
TRAVEL
Sun worshipper or thrill-seeker?
I love the sea and I try to spend as much time
as possible on my boat, for instance. More than
beaches I look for the sea, the beautiful scenery
and places.
ACCOMMODATION
Grandes dames, luxe design, or eminently
private? I am very lucky in that regard since
the tournaments where I play put us in amazing
hotels. Some are more classical, such as the
Intercontinental Le Grand or the Plaza Athénée
in Paris, some others more modern. I have to go
to ME Dubai, an amazing hotel.
FOOD
Top names or hidden gems? I am more for
quality than for names. I like those places that
I know around the world that might not have
a star but are amazing, such as Sa Punta in
Mallorca, Taverna Trilussa and Le Tamerici in
Rome, Novikov or Cambio de Tercio in London.
All excellent and I love those places.
ARCHITECTURE
Classical or modern? Both are compatible but
I really enjoy cities like Paris, Madrid, Rome, or
Barcelona to name a few. I also love New York,
and its vibe and life.
ARTS
Still life or live performance? I love music and
whenever I can I try to go to live concerts. I
have been lucky on some trips and also had
the chance to enjoy some of those shows. As
a matter of fact, the artist I have seen the most
live is my friend Julio Iglesias, since I have been
at his concerts in Madrid, Mallorca, and even
Indian Wells!
TRANSPORT
Fast lane or cruise control? I love my Kia,
believe me, and in Mallorca, to go from one
place to another on the island takes no more
than 45 minutes. I also have a couple of
speedsters that I enjoy only from time to time.
FUTURE PLANS
Coaching, media work or other? I believe I am
more into the entrepreneurial options. I won’t
say no to coaching, although it would be more
through my Rafa Nadal Academy by Movistar
rather than with only a single player. But as they
say, never say never...
JULIAN RENTZSCH
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