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ISLE OF PLENTY<br />
Corfu offers a sense<br />
of glorious escapism<br />
RENAISSANCE MAN<br />
Bill Bishop has<br />
talents to spare<br />
CITY OF TASTE<br />
Lisbon’s burgeoning<br />
culinary credentials<br />
IN HIS SIGHT<br />
James Chen’s mission<br />
is truly visionary<br />
SCOTLAND’S PRIDE<br />
The home of golf<br />
gets an upgrade
TAKING OFF<br />
MANY OF <strong>US</strong> ARE FAMILIAR with the sound of a golf club striking<br />
a golf ball for the first time in the season—it’s the sound of summer.<br />
For this edition, our editors go beyond the golf swing, highlighting<br />
the best shoes and wedges to create consistency and comfort on<br />
the course. Add in sunshine and an open fairway and you’re in for<br />
—hopefully—a rewarding game.<br />
Additionally, this issue of our magazine is an exhibit of exploration and enjoyment.<br />
Our editors take us to sun-drenched Corfu, as well as Lisbon (home, of course, to <strong>NetJets</strong>’<br />
European headquarters), for some of the newest culinary destinations. We hear from<br />
Stanford neuroscientist Dr. Andrew Huberman on how to retrain our brains by tapping into<br />
neuroplasticity. And we showcase two ways the <strong>NetJets</strong> Owner experience is evolving:<br />
our new Crewmember uniforms and our transoceanic flagship aircraft—the Global 7500.<br />
We also introduce you to my friend and our longtime customer Bill Bishop. Bill spent years<br />
perfecting several businesses and is perhaps most well-known for the pet food brand Blue<br />
Buffalo. Now he’s working to perfect his golf game. Check out his story and more on the<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong> Owner experience.<br />
Whether your summer is spent on the golf course or at your favorite vacation destination,<br />
we look forward to being part of your exceptional travel experiences.<br />
Adam Johnson<br />
Chairman and CEO<br />
C O N T R I B U T O R S<br />
IVAN CARVALHO<br />
The U.S.-born<br />
journalist heads<br />
west across<br />
Europe from his<br />
home in Italy to<br />
sample The Lure<br />
of Lisbon (page<br />
62), experiencing<br />
the revolution that<br />
is underway in the<br />
Portuguese capital’s<br />
burgeoning foodand-drink<br />
scene.<br />
GUERIN BLASK<br />
Used to capturing<br />
big personalities,<br />
the New York<br />
photographer<br />
was the perfect<br />
man to shoot Bill<br />
Bishop, the serial<br />
entrepreneur behind<br />
Blue Buffalo pet<br />
food and SoBe<br />
beverages for our<br />
profile, Across the<br />
Board (page 30).<br />
JOSH SIMS<br />
In Changing<br />
Priorities (page<br />
10), the English<br />
writer learns about<br />
philanthropist<br />
James Chen’s<br />
efforts to deal with<br />
the problems of<br />
impaired vision in<br />
developing countries<br />
and the remarkable<br />
progress that is<br />
being made.<br />
JIM CLARKE<br />
The wine expert<br />
travels to the Golden<br />
State for California<br />
Dreaming (page<br />
70) to meet Eric<br />
Jensen, whose<br />
modest ambition<br />
to grow grapes in<br />
Paso Robles has<br />
flourished into<br />
one of the most<br />
interesting vineyards<br />
on the West Coast.<br />
JEN MURPHY<br />
Healthy brain,<br />
healthy body<br />
discovers the<br />
Colorado-based<br />
fitness writer. She<br />
investigates the<br />
best ways to avoid<br />
mental fatigue and<br />
improve your quality<br />
of life at home and<br />
on the move in<br />
Rewiring the Mind<br />
(page 42)<br />
This symbol throughout the magazine denotes the nearest airport served by <strong>NetJets</strong> to the<br />
story’s subject, with approximate distances in miles where applicable.<br />
4 <strong>NetJets</strong>
CONTENTS<br />
6 <strong>NetJets</strong>
PARADISE ISLE<br />
Domes Miramare, a Luxury<br />
Collection Resort, Corfu,<br />
page 50.<br />
42 62 34 64<br />
SIGHT FOR SORE EYES<br />
James Chen’s Clearly<br />
project is improving vision<br />
in developing countries<br />
pages 10-13<br />
IN THE NEWS<br />
Cultural happenings,<br />
the finest spirits, and<br />
automobiles of desire<br />
pages 14-25<br />
NETJETS UPDATE<br />
A new-look uniform, latest<br />
events, the Global 7500,<br />
and staff in profi le<br />
pages 26-29<br />
CHANGING LANES<br />
Bill Bishop made his name—<br />
and fortune—with a versatile<br />
approach to life<br />
pages 30-33<br />
NEW CALEDONIA<br />
Scotland’s traditional<br />
golfing landscape has<br />
undergone a makeover<br />
pages 34-41<br />
MIND MATTERS<br />
Looking after the brain<br />
helps the body—and there<br />
are plenty of ways to do so<br />
pages 42-49<br />
RETURN TO SPLENDOR<br />
Favored by royals and<br />
stars, Corfu is recapturing<br />
its glamorous past<br />
pages 50-57<br />
ALL-COURT GAME<br />
This season’s stylish<br />
watches complement<br />
a summer of activity<br />
pages 58-61<br />
LISBON DINING<br />
The Portuguese capital is<br />
adding to its allure with a<br />
raft of culinary highlights<br />
pages 62-69<br />
TALES OF THE VINE<br />
Raising the profile of<br />
one of California’s most<br />
exciting wine regions<br />
pages 70-73<br />
WAY OUT WEST<br />
An inside view of The<br />
Museum of Contemporary<br />
Art San Diego<br />
pages 74-81<br />
THE LAST WORD<br />
Tennis superstar<br />
Rafael Nadal on his life<br />
away from the court<br />
page 82<br />
© DOMES MIRAMARE, ALEX TE<strong>US</strong>CHER, HAYLEY KELSING, © WILDLAND<br />
7
NETJETS, THE MAGAZINE<br />
SUMMER <strong>2022</strong><br />
FRONT COVER<br />
Porto Timoni Beach,<br />
Corfu (See page 50).<br />
Image by Matteo Barlascini<br />
EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
Thomas Midulla<br />
EDITOR<br />
Farhad Heydari<br />
CREATIVE DIRECTOR<br />
Anne Plamann<br />
PHOTO DIRECTOR<br />
Martin Kreuzer<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
Anja Eichinger<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
John McNamara<br />
SENIOR EDITOR<br />
Brian Noone<br />
STAFF WRITER<br />
Claudia Whiteus<br />
CHIEF SUB-EDITOR<br />
Vicki Reeve<br />
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR<br />
Albert Keller<br />
SEPARATION<br />
Jennifer Wiesner<br />
WRITERS, CONTRIBUTORS,<br />
PHOTOGRAPHERS, AND<br />
ILL<strong>US</strong>TRATORS<br />
Guerin Blask, Ivan Carvalho,<br />
Jim Clarke, Jörn Kaspuhl,<br />
Alexander Lobrano, Heidi<br />
Mitchell, Jen Murphy,<br />
Julian Rentzsch, Josh Sims,<br />
Elisa Vallata<br />
Published by JI Experience<br />
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81737 Munich, Germany<br />
GROUP PUBLISHER<br />
Christian Schwalbach<br />
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ADVERTISING SALES<br />
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jstone@bluegroupmedia.com<br />
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Katherine Galligan<br />
katherine@metropolist.co.uk<br />
Vishal Raguvanshi<br />
vishal@metropolist.co.uk<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong>, The Magazine is<br />
the offi cial title for Owners<br />
of <strong>NetJets</strong> in the U.S.<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong>, The Magazine<br />
is published quarterly by<br />
JI Experience GmbH on<br />
behalf of <strong>NetJets</strong> Inc.<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong> Inc.<br />
4151 Bridgeway Avenue<br />
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Copyright © <strong>2022</strong><br />
by JI Experience GmbH. All rights<br />
reserved. Reproduction in whole or<br />
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Inc., and its subsidiaries or affi liated<br />
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for errors and omissions and are<br />
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manuscripts, photographs, or artwork.<br />
Views expressed are not necessarily<br />
those of the publisher or <strong>NetJets</strong> Inc.<br />
Information is correct at time of<br />
going to press.<br />
8 <strong>NetJets</strong>
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COURTESY JAMES CHEN<br />
GOODWILL<br />
Changing Priorities<br />
Correcting eyesight doesn’t just improve lives on<br />
the margins, but makes real, substantive difference<br />
to health, education, productivity, and more. For two<br />
decades, James Chen has worked to bring impaired<br />
vision to the forefront—and his quest is finally<br />
opening eyes across global institutions. // By Josh Sims<br />
JAMES CHEN HAS LEARNED TO SEE his life’s work<br />
with equal parts perspective and humor. “Now<br />
I’m part of the establishment, when before I<br />
was the outsider. It used to be a matter of ‘Who<br />
is this idiot with more money than brains who<br />
thinks he can do what we know can’t be done,’<br />
right? And later it was ‘Oh, actually you do know<br />
something after all,’” he laughs.<br />
Chen is a Hong Kong-based venture capitalist.<br />
But he’s also—following the work of his father<br />
Robert Yet-Sen Chen, founder of The Chen<br />
Yet-Sen Family Foundation—a philanthropist,<br />
though not of the more typical variety. He has<br />
spent the past 20 years focused on bringing to<br />
the fore the long-underappreciated issue of clear<br />
vision—literally, through access to spectacles—<br />
such that last July his efforts were validated<br />
through a unanimous UN Resolution, “Vision for<br />
Everyone,” committing member states to just that.<br />
With statistics suggesting that some 500 million<br />
children could be living with myopia by 2050—<br />
impacting literacy and, by turns, escape from<br />
poverty—it’s neither a small problem nor one<br />
that’s going away.<br />
“A lot of philanthropists are more donors or<br />
patrons, putting their names on buildings or<br />
writing checks for the latest emergency. And<br />
if others pursue [a philanthropic project] for<br />
three to five years that’s considered long-term.<br />
They’re held back by ideas of the mainstream<br />
norms,” reckons Chen, who became aware of<br />
what had likely been his longstanding need<br />
for glasses only when, as a youth, he started<br />
taking driving lessons. “But actually to make<br />
a real impact, studies show a philanthropic<br />
project takes more than a decade, sometimes<br />
two, and a big bet. For me, the real definition<br />
of philanthropy is to take a journey to see<br />
if you can solve one of the many seemingly<br />
intractable problems facing society.”<br />
If that sounds like a bold claim, Chen isn’t<br />
remotely awkward about it. When he told his wife<br />
he could get glasses to perhaps a million myopic<br />
people in a country like Ghana, she asked him<br />
if that wasn’t enough. Sure, he said, he saw her<br />
point, but he was also all too conscious of that<br />
leaving an estimated 2.19 billion people around<br />
the world still with blurry vision.<br />
10 <strong>NetJets</strong>
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GOODWILL<br />
ULTIMATE VISION<br />
The simple act of providing glasses can<br />
make a difference in communities from<br />
increasing tea-picking productivity to<br />
enabling education.<br />
SARAH DAY SMITH (2)<br />
This relentless ambition means that Chen<br />
has achieved much already for his somewhat<br />
unfashionable and misunderstood cause: from<br />
backing the invention of glasses with adjustable<br />
liquid-filled lenses, through to the rolling out<br />
of a nationwide vision improvement program,<br />
and, perhaps most fundamentally, getting<br />
government and intergovernmental agencies to<br />
fully appreciate the importance of good eyesight.<br />
His Vision for a Nation and Clearly campaigns<br />
have—by increments, and with many rebuffs<br />
and hard lessons along the way—pulled off<br />
what many in the community of eyesight NGOs<br />
said was a pipe dream. One might say he<br />
revealed their own short-sightedness.<br />
Indeed, he’s come to the conclusion that it<br />
is precisely because he is neither government<br />
agency nor NGO that he should think big. He<br />
calls it “moonshot philanthropy,” echoing the<br />
widely doubted scale of ambition that saw the<br />
Kennedy administration in 1961 announce it<br />
“should commit itself to achieving the goal,<br />
before this decade is out, of landing a man on<br />
the Moon.”<br />
“The real takeaway is that, actually, it’s we<br />
in the high-net-worth community that are in a<br />
unique position to drive real impact. Institutions<br />
or corporates are agents for the ultimate owners of<br />
capital, whether they’re taxpayers or shareholders.<br />
But philanthropists own their own capital; that<br />
means when you try things and there are failures<br />
it’s much easier for us to absorb the cost. That’s<br />
our superpower,” enthuses Chen.<br />
“If you’re an employee of, say, <strong>US</strong>AID or<br />
Unilever, when you make a decision to support<br />
a risky, innovative program and it fails, it’s hard<br />
to explain that to your boss or donors, taxpayers<br />
or shareholders, because they don’t have the<br />
context as to why that decision needed to be<br />
made,” he adds. “But when you’re the owner<br />
of capital you can take on things that can seem<br />
super risky. We can privatize the failures and<br />
socialize the successes.”<br />
It is, he admits, perhaps not quite as<br />
simple as that for him, as it might be for other<br />
philanthropists. As Chen graciously concedes,<br />
he didn’t make his family’s money; he’s more<br />
the steward of it. “What Elon Musk is doing with<br />
Twitter, nobody is going to begrudge him that,”<br />
Chen explains. “But as a steward of capital, and<br />
especially a third-generation steward—with that<br />
proverb regarding going ‘from shirtsleeves to<br />
shirtsleeves in three generations’—that’s always<br />
a personal challenge. It’s not just a financial risk<br />
but one of reputation.”<br />
And he stresses—it’s a good tip for aspiring<br />
philanthropists—one thing that has sustained his<br />
enthusiasm for this single cause for two decades<br />
is that he’s been able to take an intimate<br />
interest. “I mean, intellectually, I get issues like<br />
climate change. But they’re not personal to me,”<br />
Chen admits. “[In contrast] I can put my own<br />
glasses on and suddenly everything is clear and<br />
I can do things I couldn’t otherwise do, so [I’m<br />
reminded to ask] if there are so many people<br />
with the same condition as me, how come they<br />
don’t have access to such a simple solution too?”<br />
But that ability both to absorb the knockbacks<br />
and also to learn from them and achieve what<br />
Chen refers to as “domain expertize” is crucial to<br />
challenging the orthodoxy. Eyesight NGOs had,<br />
for example, long proclaimed that a campaign<br />
such as Chen’s Vision for a Nation—setting out<br />
to provide universal eye care to all of Rwanda’s<br />
15,000 villages—wasn’t feasible. But Chen<br />
believed their model was just wrong. And WHO<br />
would come to agree with him.<br />
“If we [in well-off nations] have an eye<br />
problem we go to the local mall, get our eyes<br />
tested by an expert, and they’ll sell you glasses<br />
right away. That works fine in a high-resource<br />
environment like ours, so they [the NGOs]<br />
concluded that it couldn’t work in a low-resource<br />
environment, because you can’t easily train<br />
optometrists and so on,” he explains. “That’s<br />
why what we did in Rwanda—in just three<br />
12 <strong>NetJets</strong>
days training nurses to a sufficient standard to<br />
screen vision—was such a radical change in the<br />
model. It works precisely because it doesn’t aim<br />
at perfection but offers something that is good<br />
enough. It offers some relief for most people.”<br />
As for the affordability of glasses, again,<br />
contrary to received wisdom, the simple step<br />
of priming the market was enough. Chen’s<br />
foundation supplied basic spectacles, knowing<br />
that as a proportion of income to provide the<br />
kind of product sold to first-world markets<br />
was a non-starter for 99% of those in need.<br />
The foundation quickly saw that such was<br />
the profound quality-of-life change afforded<br />
to customers by even these that they quickly<br />
recalibrated the value of glasses and invested in<br />
better pairs.<br />
But it was in moving from such grassroots<br />
work to getting global institutions to think<br />
differently that the really disheartening<br />
difficulties arose. For instance, he found that<br />
his enthusiasm for adjustable lens spectacles—<br />
affordable, distributable, functional and, he<br />
believed, “a real game-changer”—wasn’t shared<br />
by many of those in positions of influence. He<br />
created a flashy eyecare summit that, it turned<br />
out, few movers and shakers seemed interested<br />
in attending. Perhaps most surprisingly, he<br />
pitched his campaign to the World Bank and<br />
was met only with puzzlement, despite the<br />
gatekeepers who sat on the panel all wearing<br />
glasses themselves.<br />
“We realized then that the task was to get<br />
the world to understand that [poor vision] isn’t<br />
just some narrow, low-priority issue in the health<br />
sector. And, of course, if you’re in the Ministry<br />
of Health, someone with blurry vision doesn’t<br />
feel that important when you’re tackling the<br />
problem of people dying of AIDS or malaria,”<br />
explains Chen. “So it’s been about shifting<br />
understanding of vision, reframing the thinking<br />
to show that if, as a world, we want to achieve<br />
the 17 sustainable development goals [set by<br />
the United Nations], at least six of them can’t be<br />
done if there are still billions of people out there<br />
with blurry vision. You have to correct that first<br />
before you have a chance of achieving these<br />
other goals.”<br />
Yet that reframing came with another<br />
revelation for Chen, too, one regarding how<br />
the development world really works. It’s not<br />
enough to demonstrate a quality-of-life benefit<br />
to individuals. That has to be parlayed into<br />
a nationwide productivity gain. Quite how to<br />
evidence that wasn’t apparent to Chen and his<br />
team in the early years of his campaign. He cites<br />
the instance of road traffic accidents being the<br />
biggest killer of under-30s in Africa—it would<br />
seem that driving without glasses for correction<br />
is likely to contribute to that statistic, but that<br />
isolating vision from other factors, everything<br />
from the driving test regimen to the quality of the<br />
cars, is no easy task.<br />
Yet his campaign did commission a study—of<br />
the gold standard, controlled, peer-reviewed kind<br />
incredibly hard to manage for social issues —of<br />
tea pickers in India, in which half were given<br />
their first pair of cheap reading glasses, and the<br />
other half not. The result? Workers with glasses<br />
picked around 11 lbs more tea each day than<br />
those without. People have to be able to see<br />
to do—not just to work, but to read, to travel,<br />
to cook, to care for children. Other, similar<br />
studies have since followed with the intention of<br />
reinforcing this evidential base. Is the demand<br />
for such evidence a sad indictment of society’s<br />
fixation on the abstract health of the economy<br />
over the personal health of its citizens? Chen<br />
doesn’t think so. At least, not entirely.<br />
“When AIDS was raging the reaction was,<br />
‘Oh, this is sad, but there’s nothing we can do.’<br />
Until, that is, there was research regarding how<br />
the productivity of gold miners in South Africa<br />
fell when they got AIDS, and then it’s ‘Oh my<br />
god, we have to fix this!’,” Chen says. “But, of<br />
course, there are always limited resources and<br />
limited bandwidth. If you’re in the Ministry of<br />
Health you know there are 170 things that you<br />
need to do to help your people but also that the<br />
reality is they somehow need to be prioritized—<br />
and that in the next five or 10 years you’ll<br />
be lucky to make progress on the first three.<br />
So how do you choose those three? Helping<br />
to improve GDP, the material wealth of often<br />
desperately poor people, well, that’s a good goal.<br />
Yes, corrected vision improves quality of life. But<br />
the unsaid thing society cares about is that it<br />
improves your life so you can be productive.”<br />
The reverse might well be said of Chen<br />
himself, that, with inherited money to play<br />
with, he has found being productive is what<br />
has improved his life. His campaigns for vision<br />
have, he says, kept him young, and allowed him<br />
to rise each morning with a sense of purpose.<br />
It may have taken a long haul, but his is an<br />
achievement of which he should rightly be<br />
proud. Yet he hesitates to use that word.<br />
“There’s a satisfaction in having done<br />
something that people recognized was so<br />
difficult. But we as a family feel we get so<br />
much from giving. And for me personally it’s<br />
a moral obligation,” he says. “I’ve done things<br />
very differently [from] my father, but in a way<br />
it’s still very much an extension of the way he<br />
approached philanthropy. That’s not just about<br />
the money but putting in the time and effort in<br />
figuring out how to have an impact.<br />
“If we can show that [this is possible] to<br />
younger generations then that’s an important<br />
good for the high-net-worth community too,”<br />
Chen adds. “As parents, we tend to say, ‘You<br />
should do this’ and children reply, ‘But you<br />
don’t,’ right? So you have to both talk the talk<br />
and walk the walk. And, you know, it’s all very<br />
grounding. Doing this kind of philanthropic work<br />
opens your eyes.” jameschen.vision<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
13
THE SMART GUIDE<br />
An update on the world of culture heads our<br />
collection of the latest, the best, and the brightest.<br />
IWAN BAAN<br />
OPEN SEASON<br />
The world’s cultural scene is blossoming again with a raft of galleries, museum,<br />
and art spaces debuting around the world. // By John McNamara<br />
THE SPIRIT OF REJUVENATION in post-pandemic times has not<br />
been lost on the art world, with some spectacular new openings<br />
happening around the globe. In the U.S. alone, past, present, and<br />
future are all represented in the latest offerings: the Museum of<br />
Broadway in New York is an interactive experience celebrating all<br />
things theatrical; In Miami, the sense of adventure and wonder is<br />
generated by ReefLine, an underwater sculpture park, where the<br />
works are displayed alongside coral and endangered marine life.<br />
And in Seattle, the world’s first museum dedicated to NFTs (nonfungible<br />
tokens) opened its doors in January.<br />
Across the Atlantic in Europe, there’s plenty of ingenuity on<br />
show, too. Perhaps no debut embraces the ambitious nature<br />
more than Plateforme 10 (plateforme10.ch), in the hilly Swiss<br />
town of Lausanne on the banks of Lake Geneva. It’s less an arts<br />
14 <strong>NetJets</strong>
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THE SMART GUIDE<br />
Perhaps no debut embraces the ambition<br />
more than Plateforme 10 in Lausanne.<br />
center than an arts neighborhood, where the trio of museums<br />
are surrounded by a fresh selection of restaurants, bookshops,<br />
and arcades. The artists still take priority, of course, at mudac<br />
(Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts), Photo<br />
Elysée, and the latest to open, MCBA, (the Cantonal Museum of<br />
Fine Arts). And while all will reach out in different directions—<br />
and have very individual exhibitions, ongoing and planned—as<br />
this impressive project near Lausanne’s central station launches,<br />
railways provides the central theme for a joint inaugural show.<br />
“Train Zug Treno Tren” (until 25 September), will run across all<br />
three spaces. Railway-inspired works by the likes of Giorgio de<br />
Chirico, Edward Hopper, and Paul Delvaux feature at the MCBA,<br />
while the other two spaces will cover themes of early rail travel<br />
and platform reunions.<br />
Farther north in Norway, Oslo’s long-awaited National<br />
Museum (nasjonalmuseet.no) is finally open. It’s a celebration<br />
of Scandinavian art, combining four collections into one new<br />
building. The foyer immediately makes an impression with<br />
a tapestry of 400 polished reindeer skulls by Máret Ánne<br />
Sara, an artist from the Sámi people of northern Norway,<br />
Sweden, and Finland. The country’s most famous artist,<br />
Edvard Munch, is well represented in the main collection,<br />
but the first exhibition held in these hallowed halls, “I Call<br />
It Art” (until September 11), looks at the contemporary<br />
scene. The selection of works by almost 150 artists and<br />
collectives questions the nature of the relationship between the<br />
establishment and alternative cultures, and just who is on the<br />
inside of the art world.<br />
HSUAN LANG LIN<br />
16 <strong>NetJets</strong>
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THE SMART GUIDE<br />
ART IN VOGUE<br />
Clockwise from right: Kunsthalle<br />
Praha, Prague; Plateforme 10,<br />
Lausanne; the Museum of<br />
the Future, Dubai.<br />
Previous page: Tapei<br />
Performing Arts Center.<br />
Opening page: The National<br />
Museum of Norway, Oslo.<br />
Equally intriguing, the Kunsthalle Praha (kunsthallepraha.<br />
org) debuted recently in a former electrical substation in the<br />
Czechia capital’s center. As well as the three gallery spaces, the<br />
60,000 square feet of the Kunsthalle also incorporate a shop,<br />
bistro, and café, while its enviable location offers easy access<br />
to Prague’s other cultural highlights, such as the nearby Franz<br />
Kafka Museum, and offers panoramas of the castle. While the<br />
opening exhibition, “Kinetismus: 100 Years of Electricity in Art,”<br />
marked the space’s previous life, the latest pays tribute to a major<br />
figure in Czech art. “Midnight of Art: Ways of Collecting” (until<br />
September 30) brings together works assembled by the curator<br />
and entrepreneur Karel Babíček, who built one of the first private<br />
galleries in Prague inspired by the New York model.<br />
IF THE BUILDINGS in Oslo and Prague are somewhat prosaic<br />
compared to the treasures that lie within, the same cannot be<br />
said for the Taipei Performing Arts Center (tpac-taipei.org), in<br />
the Taiwanese capital’s Shilin Night Market. The remarkable<br />
FILIP ŠLAPAL<br />
CATHERINE LEUTENEGGER<br />
orbed façade projects out over the street, and inwards to three<br />
distinct spaces—the central Globe Playhouse, which will<br />
seat 800 people, flanked either side by the Grand Theater<br />
(which will hold 1,600) and the 840-seat Blue Box. Pritzker<br />
Architecture Prize-winner Rem Koolhaas is the man behind the<br />
spectacular design. The Dutchman, who is slated to design the<br />
first Pompidou Center in North America, based in New Jersey,<br />
wanted to make a contribution to the history of theater, getting<br />
away from contemporary spaces that are “increasingly becoming<br />
standardized, with conservative internal operation principles.”<br />
Initial impressions are that he seems to have succeeded.<br />
Challenging conceptions in the world of the arts is something<br />
that has come naturally to the UAE in recent years and Dubai<br />
has upped the ante further with the opening of the Museum<br />
of the Future (museumofthefuture.ae), which promises to let<br />
visitors “see, touch, and shape our shared future. Go on a journey<br />
through possible futures and bring hope and knowledge back to<br />
the present.”<br />
It’s an experience housed in a remarkable building. Standing at<br />
256-feet tall in the Emirates’s Financial District, the outside of the<br />
structure by Killa Design and Buro Happold is covered in Arabic<br />
writing, while inside exhibition spaces on innovative ideologies,<br />
services, and products, are joined by theater spaces, a laboratory,<br />
and a research center.<br />
A glimpse of the future, maybe, but also symbolic of the<br />
burgeoning art and culture scene that continues to thrive<br />
and surprise.<br />
© MOTF<br />
GENEVA AIRPORT TO PLATEFORME 10: 38 miles; OSLO AIRPORT TO NATIONAL<br />
M<strong>US</strong>EUM: 32 miles; PRAGUE AIRPORT TO KUNSTHALLE PRAHA: 7 miles; TAIWAN<br />
TAOYUAN AIRPORT TO TAIPEI PERFORMING ARTS CENTER: 25 miles; DUBAI<br />
AIRPORT TO M<strong>US</strong>EUM OF THE FUTURE: 7 miles<br />
18 <strong>NetJets</strong>
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AND OUTSIDE. AND EVERY LINE AND ANGLE.<br />
A network Forever Agent SM will help you find a home that inspires<br />
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THE SMART GUIDE<br />
Raising the Bar<br />
A new distillery, tantalizing elixirs, and automotive-themed<br />
whiskys are among the latest developments in the spirits world.<br />
GROWING UP<br />
EMPHASIZING ITS BURGEONING reputation as a spirit producer of note, Scapegrace Distilling Company is building<br />
the largest distillery in its native New Zealand. Already exporting its award-winning gin and vodka to more than<br />
40 countries, the premises will provide a launchpad for a new single malt whisky. The 90-acre site will partially<br />
open in August. The whole complex, which is located in Otago on the South Island, with outstanding views<br />
of the Bendigo mountains, will become a gourmet destination in its own right when completed in fall 2023.<br />
scapegracedistillery.com<br />
1 2<br />
4<br />
6<br />
7<br />
3<br />
5<br />
1 TALISKER 44-YEAR-OLD: FORESTS OF THE DEEP Inspired by environmental organization Parley for the Oceans, the oldest whisky from the famed Isle of Skye distillery<br />
reflects the power and beauty of the seven seas in a release of only 1,997 bottles. malts.com // 2 THE MACALLAN DISTIL YOUR WORLD NEW YORK A celebration of the<br />
Big Apple, the Roca brothers, owners of El Celler de Can Roca, were charged with channeling the spirit of the city that never sleeps into this 1,000 limited-edition single<br />
malt. themacallan.com // 3 GIN D’AZUR A product of the sun, master distiller Paul Caris captures the essence of the Côte d’Azur in this “sipping” gin full of juniper,<br />
lavender, thyme, marjoram, star anise, and rosemary, all grown in the South of France. gindazur.com // 4 COTSWOLDS DISTILLERY, HEARTS AND CRAFTS RUM CASK<br />
SINGLE MALT Aged in rejuvenated French oak ex-red wine casks seasoned with fine Caribbean rum, the latest in the Shipston-on-Stour distillery’s art-and-crafts-themed<br />
collection comes with a William Morris-designed presentation case. cotswoldsdistillery.com // 5 THE SPIRIT OF GEORGE A collaboration between a small British firm, The<br />
Big Hill Distillery and world-renowned grocers Fortnum & Mason, this gin commemorates the feats of mountaineering pioneer George Mallory, with ingredients sourced in<br />
the Himalayas. bighilldistillery.com // 6 LOCH LOMOND 46 YEAR OLD Just 200 bottles of this rare whiskey are available from the Highland distillery, created in its unique<br />
straight-neck stills that allow its master craftsmen to carefully shape the character of the whisky at the point of distillation. lochlomondwhiskies.com // 7 THE YAMAZAKI<br />
TSUKURIWAKE SELECTION A quartet of single malts, each of which marks one of the four central types of Japan’s original whisky distillery—puncheon, peated malt,<br />
Spanish oak, and mizunara. suntory.com.<br />
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE COMPANIES<br />
20 <strong>NetJets</strong>
FIRST AMONG EQUALS<br />
Comprising eight incredible single malt whiskies, the third release of Prima & Ultima is drawn from Diageo’s finest distilleries across Scotland.<br />
Master blender Dr. Craig Wilson was charged with selecting the octet, with The Singleton of Glen Ord, Talisker, Lagavulin and, for the first time,<br />
both Brora and Port Ellen featuring. Dr. Wilson has a personal involvement in the latter two, as he played a fundamental role in the restoration<br />
of the Brora spirit and has overseen new releases from Port Ellen. There is a royal connection as well, as the last ever Port Ellen 1980 cask,<br />
selected here, was filled in the year Queen Elizabeth II visited the distillery’s maltings. theprimaandultimacollection.com<br />
FAST LANE<br />
Former Formula One world champion<br />
Jenson Button has teamed up with<br />
whisky writer and consultant George<br />
Koutsakis to launch Coachbuilt,<br />
a blend that takes in some of<br />
the finest specimens from five<br />
Scottish regions—Islay, Speyside,<br />
Campbeltown, Highlands and<br />
Lowlands—matured in premium<br />
sherry casks. coachbuiltwhisky.com<br />
A PERFECT BALANCE<br />
Presented in a futuristic “vessel” by Aston Martin,<br />
ARC-52, a vintage whisky from Bowmore, has<br />
been aged for over half a century in American oak<br />
hogshead and European oak butt casks to provide a<br />
complex flavor to match its exuberant design. Only<br />
100 decanters will be made available. bowmore.com<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
21
PRIVATE PARADISE<br />
IN GREECE<br />
Nested on a gorgeous private sandy beach, Porto Zante Villas & Spa on<br />
the Greek Island of Zakynthos is an award-winning hideaway of worldclass<br />
villas, considered to be the most private beach resort in Europe at the<br />
moment and offering unique experiences for families and couples alike.<br />
Porto Zante Villas & Spa<br />
Selected as one of the 34 Ultraluxe Resorts in the World by Virtuoso for<br />
<strong>2022</strong> and one of the World’s Best Hotels & Resorts for 2020 by Condé<br />
Nast Traveller’s Gold List, Porto Zante Villas & Spa is a wonderfully discreet<br />
hideaway, choice of famous clientele from all over the world. A member<br />
of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, this private beachfront paradise,<br />
located on the magical Greek Island of Zakynthos, has perfected the merging<br />
of finest personal services, exclusive open-air facilities and bespoke activities,<br />
satisfying even the most discerning guest. Escape to one of its nine worldclass<br />
beachfront villas.<br />
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION<br />
Call +30 210 8218640 or +44 (0)20 8882 6767, email reservations@portozante.com or visit portozante.com
HOW TO REACH<br />
Escape to Porto Zante Villas & Spa in under two<br />
hours from most major European cities either by<br />
private jet or via one of the direct non-stop flights<br />
to Zakynthos island during the summer.<br />
WORLD-CLASS VILLAS<br />
Imagine your own private beachfront estate,<br />
nestled between the magnificent natural beauty<br />
of lush tropical gardens, azure skies and set on a<br />
serene turquoise sea. Nine stunning world-class<br />
villas are built amphitheatrically over a secluded<br />
sandy beach and boast private heated pools and<br />
stunning views of the Ionian Sea, creating an<br />
escape in the truest sense of the word. Inside these<br />
super-luxe havens, selected Armani/Casa and<br />
Kettal/Gervasoni furniture add to the laidback<br />
glamorous aesthetic; the divine marble bathrooms<br />
are equipped with Bulgari guest amenities, while<br />
cutting-edge technology is represented by Bang &<br />
Olufsen entertainment systems and iMac desktops.<br />
BESPOKE EXPERIENCES<br />
In case you wish to emerge from your private cocoon<br />
and the 24-hour in-villa dining service – ideally<br />
complementing the Club House Greek & Mediterranean<br />
Restaurant and the Maya Contemporary Asian<br />
Restaurant – an array of luxury experiences and fun<br />
activities for adults and children awaits. Delicious dining<br />
in one of the resort’s open-air restaurants, private training<br />
in the resorts’ Gym by Technogym, yoga sessions on the<br />
tip of the water, both motorised and non-motorised<br />
water sports for all ages, private yacht excursions, to the<br />
famed Navagio beach, Marathonisi protected area for<br />
the caretta sea turtles, or local landscapes like Ancient<br />
Olympia, birthplace of Olympic Games, sample fine<br />
wines at the local vineyard, or – naturally – a signature<br />
zen spa treatment. Awarded Greece’s Leading Hotel Spa,<br />
the Waterfront Spa is situated in front of the cobalt waters<br />
of the Ionian Sea and excels in over 20 therapies inspired<br />
by Greek nature. And while parents unwind under the<br />
care of experienced therapists, the staff at the Kids’ Club<br />
oversees children’s entertainment and organises fun<br />
activities. It is all dedicated to fun!
THE SMART GUIDE<br />
Star Cars<br />
The latest attractions on four wheels are a welcome mix<br />
of old-school style and state-of-the-art tech.<br />
LAND ROVER<br />
DEFENDER 130<br />
As imposing a presence as always, the<br />
Defender 130 is the largest in Land<br />
Rover’s lineup, following on from the<br />
90 and 110. With room for an extra<br />
row of seats, the 130 can take up to<br />
eight passengers. Though of more<br />
interest to the adventurous traveling<br />
type, 80.9 cubic feet of cargo space<br />
can be achieved with the second and<br />
third rows folded down, allowing for<br />
plenty of room for camping or sporting<br />
equipment. And, of course, it comes with<br />
all the mod-cons, including a four‐zone<br />
climate control that offers independent<br />
management across all three rows of<br />
seating. landrover.com<br />
© CYAN RACING © LAND ROVER<br />
VOLVO P1800<br />
Restomods—classically styled cars updated with the<br />
latest technology—are increasingly popular and Swedish<br />
firm Cyan is right at the heart of it, now taking its muchadmired<br />
P1800 to the U.S. for the first time. Originally<br />
released in 1960, the sports car epitomized the era’s sense<br />
of style and now is remodeled to offer a high-performance<br />
update. The modern twin-cam four-cylinder Volvo engine is<br />
paired with a five-speed bespoke Holinger manual gearbox<br />
and a Cyan-designed rear suspension. Looks count too—<br />
the interiors are fully customizable. cyancars.se<br />
24 <strong>NetJets</strong>
© DELOREAN<br />
DELOREAN ALPHA5<br />
This creation of a new Texas-based company stays loyal<br />
to some familiar features associated with the original<br />
name—iconic gull-wing doors included. Dreamers can<br />
step back to the future with the Alpha5, an electric version<br />
of the 1980s sports car made famous by the time-travelling<br />
trilogy. Its origins are recognizable, but there are some<br />
significant changes, including a smoother curved look and<br />
the addition of an extra two seats. The Alpha5 doesn’t lack<br />
when it comes to speed either, going from 0-60mph in<br />
under three seconds and it can reach 155mph. delorean.com<br />
MERCEDES-AMG E63 S<br />
4MATIC+FINAL EDITION<br />
Marking the end of an era, the E63 S 4MATIC+ Final<br />
Edition will be the last in its class, as the V8 E-Class is<br />
phased out and Mercedes focuses on lowering emissions<br />
and increasing its electric range. Just 999 units of the<br />
model will be made, but it will certainly go out in style,<br />
with the Graphite Grey Magno paint and special 20-inch<br />
forged wheels making a bold aesthetic statement. The<br />
interiors also catch the eye, with titanium gray nappa<br />
leather seats epitomizing the luxe nature of the vehicle as<br />
a whole. mercedes-amg.com<br />
© MERCEDES-BENZ AG<br />
DENGLER STUDIO<br />
PORSCHE 928<br />
Moving out of the shadow of the 911, the 928 is given<br />
a stylish makeover from the French start-up Nardone<br />
Automotive. Powered by a 400hp V8 engine and featuring<br />
a six-speed gearbox, this restomod has bodywork mostly<br />
composed of lightweight carbon fiber, but retains the<br />
imitable Porsche elegance. The interior has received<br />
an upgrade as well, with Foglizzo leather and Alacantra<br />
throughout, and infotainment options that incorporates the<br />
Porsche Classic Management system alongside a high-end<br />
hi-fi system and Apple CarPlay. Fittingly previewed at<br />
Milan Design Week, the 928 is as much a work of art as a<br />
car. nardone-automotive.com<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
25
NOTES FROM NETJETS<br />
Latest happenings, onboard updates,<br />
companywide news, and profiles.<br />
© NETJETS<br />
A NEW LOOK<br />
In collaboration with our longtime partner<br />
Brooks Brothers, we debuted new <strong>NetJets</strong><br />
uniforms for our U.S. Crewmembers,<br />
including pilots, flight attendants,<br />
and service representatives. The new<br />
uniforms, featuring navy and silver, bring<br />
a more cohesive look across our global<br />
brand, helping to easily identify <strong>NetJets</strong>’<br />
Crewmembers when traveling in the U.S.<br />
and Europe. To further distinguish <strong>NetJets</strong>’<br />
team members, uniform accessories are<br />
broken down into three color groups: silver<br />
for pilots, navy for service representatives,<br />
and burgundy for flight attendants. The<br />
one-of-a-kind uniforms were custom<br />
designed for <strong>NetJets</strong>. Each garment is<br />
specially crafted with subtle, brand-specific<br />
details to make each unique.<br />
NEW COLORS<br />
Clockwise from top left: the latest pilot uniforms;<br />
flight attendants; service representatives<br />
26 <strong>NetJets</strong>
RIDING HIGH<br />
INSIDE TRACK<br />
ANDREW NAUDASHER<br />
Vice President, Global Procurement<br />
JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />
As the offi cial sponsor for the<br />
Winter Equestrian Festival<br />
in Wellington, Florida, and<br />
the International Polo Club,<br />
we are thrilled to wrap up<br />
another successful winter of<br />
equestrian sporting events.<br />
During 12 weeks of sports<br />
and hospitality, we created<br />
unique V.I.P. spaces and<br />
unforgettable experiences for<br />
well over 100 Owners who<br />
enjoyed watching the best<br />
show jumpers, polo players,<br />
and other equestrians. Owners<br />
had wonderful opportunities<br />
to mingle with like-minded<br />
equestrian enthusiasts while<br />
enjoying gourmet fare and<br />
specialty cocktails.<br />
WHEN DID YOU START AT NETJETS?<br />
I started as a director of Global Procurement in<br />
September 2013 and was primarily responsible<br />
for indirect spending categories. At that time, we<br />
had just centralized all spending categories under<br />
the procurement department. My role within<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong> has been very rewarding both personally<br />
and professionally, as I have helped build the<br />
policies, processes, and tools required to effi ciently<br />
manage and control our global spend over the last<br />
eight years.<br />
WHAT DOES YOUR NORMAL DAY CONSIST OF?<br />
I spend the majority of my days focused on<br />
ensuring we are looking at our categories of spend<br />
strategically and taking the right steps to make<br />
sure we are managing risk and cost in an everchanging<br />
market.<br />
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE YOU FACE<br />
IN YOUR ROLE?<br />
This is a great question, given what is going on<br />
around the world today. Without a doubt, the<br />
biggest challenge I face, and procurement in<br />
general faces, is twofold: one, mitigating the impact<br />
of infl ation across <strong>NetJets</strong>’ spend categories and<br />
guaranteeing we can grow profi tability; and two,<br />
ensuring a steady supply for the critical materials<br />
and services required to provide our Owners with<br />
the experience they desire.<br />
SMILES AND MILES<br />
Laura Lally and guests—affectionately known as Mares<br />
in the Air—jet to the Winter Equestrian Festival.<br />
© NETJETS<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
27
NOTES FROM NETJETS<br />
GLOBAL 7500<br />
The new <strong>NetJets</strong> Flagship from Bombardier<br />
14<br />
PASSENGERS<br />
(Cabin comfortably sleeps up to six)<br />
4<br />
DISTINCT, PRIVATE CABIN SPACES<br />
(Club, dining, entertainment,<br />
and master suites)<br />
UP TO 16 HOURS<br />
ENDURANCE<br />
20<br />
TOTAL GLOBAL 7500s<br />
TO BE DELIVERED<br />
(We anticipate three-to-five<br />
per year going forward)<br />
59.6 FT<br />
CABIN LENGTH<br />
(Nearly 12 feet longer than<br />
the Global 6000)<br />
6.17 FT<br />
CABIN HEIGHT<br />
593 MPH<br />
HIGH-SPEED CRUISE<br />
The industry’s fastest ultralong-range jet, the Bombardier Global 7500 features both innovative<br />
circadian lighting and air-purifi cation systems that help combat jet lag and leave passengers<br />
feeling refreshed in each of its four distinct cabin zones. The GE Passport turbofan engine,<br />
designed specifi cally for the Global 7500, allows nonstop fl ight from San Francisco to Sydney.<br />
For comfort, the Nuage seat is a revolutionary concept—it adjusts and tilts, and with its unique<br />
fl oating base, it moves the way you want to. The entertainment room includes a divan with<br />
a new recline position—perfect for enjoying the <strong>NetJets</strong> In-Flight Entertainment System on<br />
the 40-inch 4K display. And, of course, a dedicated crew provides unique experiences with<br />
specially curated wines, gourmet delicacies, and essential amenities that make it feel like home.<br />
© NETJETS<br />
28 <strong>NetJets</strong>
JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />
CREWMEMBERS IN PROFILE<br />
DEWEY DAVENPORT<br />
Aircraft Owners & Pilots Association,<br />
Lifetime Achievement in Aviation Award,<br />
Challenger 350 Pilot<br />
MY FIRST EXPOSURE TO FLYING WAS …<br />
around seven years old. I grew up in<br />
Jamestown, Ohio—a farm town—where I<br />
played with model airplanes, built plastic planes,<br />
and fl ew radio-controlled planes with my dad.<br />
My parents were always very supportive of my<br />
dreams to fl y, but I didn’t fl y in a plane until I<br />
was a senior in high school.<br />
THE BEST PART OF FLYING IS … the liftoff—<br />
taking off and leaving the ground.<br />
BEFORE JOINING THE NETJETS TEAM, I WAS<br />
… working at Skydive Greene County in Xenia,<br />
Ohio. It was an opportunity to have a start at<br />
life and jump out of a plane for the fi rst time.<br />
I fl ew twin-engine airplanes and made 81<br />
skydive drops. I worked at <strong>US</strong>A Jet Airlines for<br />
seven-and-a-half years hauling freight and fl ying<br />
passenger charters.<br />
THE ONE DAY AT NETJETS I WON’T FORGET<br />
WAS … when I was called and offered the job.<br />
I went to lunch with my parents, and then we<br />
came home and listened to the message on the<br />
answering machine together. We were jumping<br />
up and down, so happy that I got the job.<br />
ON MY DAYS OFF … I have a 1929 and<br />
1930 biplane and I enjoy offering vintage<br />
plane rides to the community. This year I<br />
will organize and host the eighth annual<br />
Barnstorming Carnival in Springfi eld, Ohio. We<br />
offer biplane rides, model airplanes, a magic<br />
show, and other fun activities. My hobby and<br />
business, Goodfolk & O’Tymes Biplane Rides,<br />
keeps me busy—I have logged over 8,000 rides.<br />
When I am not in a plane, I enjoy hanging with<br />
friends and playing golf.<br />
WITHIN THE NEXT TEN YEARS, I WOULD<br />
LIKE TO … continue outreach to young kids<br />
and adults, teaching them about planes and<br />
how to fl y, and being a pathway for kids without<br />
resources or means to get into aviation. For<br />
some people, a model airplane may be their fi rst<br />
introduction to aviation. For others, it may be<br />
fl ying in a biplane.<br />
MY BEST ADVICE FOR STAYING SANE ACROSS<br />
THE TIME ZONES IS … get out and enjoy life,<br />
meet, and get to know people. I almost always<br />
know somebody wherever I land, so I enjoy<br />
calling and meeting up with friends across cities.<br />
If I don’t know anybody, I meet new people.<br />
ONE THING OWNERS PROBABLY WOULDN’T<br />
GUESS ABOUT ME IS … I love barnstorming,<br />
sharing biplane history with the community, and<br />
connecting with kids.<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
29
OWNER’S PROFILE<br />
A man of many talents, Blue Buffalo founder<br />
and serial entrepreneur Bill Bishop has led a<br />
remarkably varied life. // By Heidi Mitchell<br />
ACROSS<br />
THE BOARD<br />
IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE the mastermind behind<br />
multibillion-dollar Blue Buffalo natural dog<br />
food and multi-decamillion beverage brand<br />
SoBe sodas as a mail boy, but most interesting<br />
success stories begin in the basement. That was<br />
where Bill Bishop found himself after graduating<br />
from Ohio Wesleyan University—which he had<br />
attended on a basketball scholarship, even<br />
though he was also the 1956 New York State<br />
half-mile track champion and made All-Midwest<br />
in college lacrosse by scoring a record number of<br />
goals in 1961. This wasn’t a guy willing to push<br />
carts around for too long. He had ambitions.<br />
So after he was called up to serve during<br />
the Vietnam War (“I was on Parris Island; thank<br />
god we never got deployed”), young Bishop<br />
returned to New York determined to put his<br />
journalism degree to work—not as a writer,<br />
certainly not in the mail room, but as a slick<br />
ad man. It was the “Mad Men” era of 1963,<br />
and Bishop wanted in. He aimed to make<br />
enough money to escape the Scarsdale home<br />
he grew up in with no father, one brother, 11<br />
other relatives, and one bathroom. “It was a<br />
great exercise in restraint, what can I say?” the<br />
83-year-old remarks with a laugh.<br />
Every day, Bishop would don a suit, take<br />
the train to Grand Central Station, then stack<br />
his pile of dimes atop one of the payphones<br />
lined up outside the Pan Am Building. He had<br />
ripped the “advertising agency” section from a<br />
copy of the Yellow Pages, and started calling<br />
fi rms, beginning with the letter A, on the hunt<br />
for a training program. A persuasive chap, he<br />
made it to B, and landed a gig at BBDO as an<br />
account management trainee. “I wanted to be<br />
a copywriter, but as I perused the business, it<br />
became apparent that account management<br />
was the way to cruise up the chain,” he says.<br />
Turns out, he was excellent at managing<br />
clients and truly understanding brands. Money<br />
wasn’t a driver—he was only making $6,000<br />
a year—but success was. “I always wanted to<br />
be successful,” Bishop refl ects. “When I played<br />
sports, I wanted to start. I wanted to be the<br />
leading scorer. I’ve never told anybody this, but<br />
I really wanted to be the best at whatever I did.”<br />
That required switching jobs every two years or<br />
so. “Changing companies was an easier way<br />
to jump from account executive to supervisor<br />
to management supervisor,” he says. “I did<br />
make more money each time, but the biggest<br />
benefi t, in retrospect, was seeing the companies<br />
manage their business. P&G, Nabisco, General<br />
Foods, Playtex, Tropicana…I got to see their<br />
brand-building philosophies and the results of<br />
their corporate culture. Those are some super<br />
benefi ts.” The most impactful lesson he gleaned,<br />
he says, is that, for any company, “there are 99<br />
things you can do every day, but only four things<br />
that will move the business forward.” He grew<br />
frustrated watching companies getting “analysis<br />
paralysis,” attempting to incorporate everyone’s<br />
view. “They got stuck,” Bishop noticed.<br />
He left the agency world and went to work as<br />
category marketing manager for General Foods,<br />
overseeing beverage brands like Kool-Aid and<br />
Country Time Lemonade, before being recruited<br />
to the Marketing Corporation of America (MCA)<br />
consultancy in Westport, Connecticut. That<br />
FORWARD LOOKING<br />
Bill Bishop’s strength in being<br />
able to spot an opening in the<br />
market has led to an eclectic career.<br />
30 <strong>NetJets</strong>
GUERIN BLASK<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
31
OWNER’S PROFILE<br />
afforded him time to coach his two sons, Billy<br />
and Chris, during football, basketball, and<br />
lacrosse seasons. “The best businesspeople are<br />
those who have a balanced life,” the devoted<br />
father says. “I was never big on those who get<br />
an MBA and work, work, work. I don’t like that<br />
lifestyle for me, or for my employees—they<br />
should be able to think the way our customers<br />
think, and, if you’re a normal person, your<br />
family comes fi rst and your work comes<br />
second.” When MCA acquired an ad agency,<br />
Bishop was the obvious choice to be its CEO.<br />
“It was 1985, I was, like, 45 and had an offi ce<br />
on the 63rd fl oor of the Chrysler Building,” he<br />
says. “It was so awesome.” Eventually, Bishop<br />
decided it was time to stop working for other<br />
people. He launched Sierra Communications, a<br />
marketing fi rm that “was willing to do anything:<br />
direct marketing, TV ads, whatever you wanted,”<br />
the agency veteran recalls. Friends came<br />
through with business opportunities. “We had<br />
Amex, NFL Properties, Nabisco, Southern New<br />
“I was 45 and had an office on the 63rd floor<br />
of the Chrysler Building. It was awesome.”<br />
32 <strong>NetJets</strong>
GUERIN BLASK<br />
England Telephone, GE Capital. It was a small<br />
agency, but we offered incredibly high-touch<br />
service and it was highly profi table.”<br />
Meanwhile, a former client came to Bishop<br />
with an idea for a destination-themed beverage<br />
company. It was 1995, and Nantucket Nectars<br />
was killing it. Naturally, Bishop jumped at<br />
the opportunity to build a brand from scratch.<br />
But its fi rst foray, Key Largo Lemonade, failed<br />
spectacularly. “We had raised $2 million and<br />
had spent virtually all of it,” explains Bishop.<br />
Driven to succeed, Bishop retooled the brand<br />
and relaunched it. “At the time, South Beach<br />
was an international destination known for<br />
its hedonism,” he recalls. “So we decided to<br />
name the brand ‘SoBe’ because that’s what the<br />
locals called South Beach, and we decided to<br />
focus on the lizard icon, which people seemed<br />
to like.” AriZona Iced Tea had a ginseng drink<br />
that was growing like crazy, and Bishop fi gured<br />
throwing some herbs with proven benefi ts into<br />
a tasty beverage would be a winning recipe.<br />
They created SoBe Black Tea 3G, with ginseng,<br />
gingko, and guarana, and Bishop and son, Billy,<br />
drove a van full of samples from Connecticut to<br />
Houston to attend the InterBev industry show.<br />
They had the worst possible spot—in front of<br />
the men’s room—which sparked their tag line:<br />
Drain the Lizard. They set up a basketball hoop,<br />
and as guys came out of the men’s room, they<br />
gave them a T-shirt if they made the shot. “We<br />
had lines of people and we won the beverage<br />
of show award,” Bishop says. By 2000, they<br />
were doing more than $200 million in sales,<br />
showing up in old school buses at alternative<br />
sporting events, like the X Games, to do guerrilla<br />
marketing. The target market was men aged 16<br />
to 24, so it made sense that Bishop would make<br />
his son Billy vice president of marketing once he<br />
graduated from college. “He hired young guys<br />
who were in the target audience themselves,<br />
which got us into the mindset of the people we<br />
were selling to,” the patriarch says. When Chris<br />
graduated a couple of years later, he ran the<br />
Cannondale mountain bike racing team. “We<br />
had this major family bond. I really enjoyed<br />
that,” Bishop senior says. SoBe was sold to<br />
Pepsi in 2001 for $370 million, which gave the<br />
Bishops room to consider their next steps.<br />
Retirement wasn’t an option, and he<br />
wanted his sons to work. The family’s largebreed<br />
Airedale, Blue, was battling cancer,<br />
which inspired the Bishop men to take a hard<br />
look at the pet food market. In 2002, there<br />
was a small but rapidly growing natural pet<br />
food segment, but 98% of the industry was<br />
dominated by big, multinational corporations<br />
who were loading their kibble with fi llers. Bill<br />
and his sons sourced some animal nutritionists<br />
to help develop a pet food that would include<br />
“life-source bits” made up of minerals and<br />
vitamins to supplement a healthy diet. All they<br />
needed was a name. “We recalled the SoBe<br />
lizard: people remembered the symbol more<br />
than the name,” says Bishop. “So we called the<br />
product Blue after our dog, and we thought a<br />
buffalo could work as our symbol because the<br />
Plains Indians considered them the protector of<br />
smaller animals.” Taking a lesson from his time<br />
with NFL Properties, Bishop slapped buffalos<br />
on hats and T-shirts and convinced PetSmart<br />
to take a chance on this new natural food. Blue<br />
Buffalo landed on the shelves of 240 stores in<br />
August 2003, but at a pricey $39.95 a bag,<br />
it wasn’t selling. “So we looked at the other<br />
natural brands, and saw that their consumers<br />
were being educated by the owners of the<br />
mom-and-pop pet shops. We built up a team of<br />
1,800 demonstrators to stand in stores on hightraffi<br />
c days and tell people about the benefi ts<br />
of our product. It was educational advertising,”<br />
says Bishop. It cost a fortune, he admits, but<br />
it worked. PetSmart expanded its Blue Buffalo<br />
distribution, Bishop renamed the demonstrators<br />
“Pet Detectives,” and he watched older folks of<br />
retirement age vying for this job that required<br />
authentic interaction with people and their pets.<br />
Blue Buffalo reached profi tability in 2010, with<br />
Chris overseeing advertising and Billy doing<br />
operations. “They are very different kids. Chris<br />
was very good at creative and Billy was good at<br />
numbers and eyeryone was very happy,” recalls<br />
Bishop. “Family companies can lead to fi ghts,<br />
but both of them understood their lanes and<br />
played to their strengths. It was one of the best<br />
times we ever had.” In July 2015, the company<br />
IPOed on NASDAQ, but the family and<br />
investment partner, the Invus Group, retained a<br />
51% controling interest in the company. Three<br />
years later, General Mills bought Blue Buffalo,<br />
the No. 1 natural food brand for cats and dogs,<br />
for $8.1 billion.<br />
The Bishops now spend their time running<br />
their family offi ce, called Seminole Investment<br />
Management, as well as B3, which Billy<br />
oversees, and has invested in everything from<br />
canned cocktails to golf apparel to cannabis.<br />
The oldest grandchilden are looking at colleges<br />
now. “It’s nuts how time goes by so fast,”<br />
Bishop remarks. The octogenarian makes<br />
good use of his days: after he sold SoBe, he<br />
bought 25 hours with <strong>NetJets</strong> to spend more<br />
time in Nantucket and Florida. “It was like<br />
we’d died and gone to heaven,” he says. “It’s<br />
nice to be able to take the family on trips<br />
together. We’ve been to Scotland, Ireland; we<br />
spend summers in Nantucket. We fl y out of<br />
Palm Beach in winters,” he says. Like his own<br />
companies, Bishop sees <strong>NetJets</strong> focusing on<br />
just four things—in its case, safety, reliability,<br />
convenience, and a blissful fl ight experience.<br />
“I like the culture,” says Bishop. “The fl ight<br />
attendant and pilots are like the Blue Buffalo<br />
Pet Detectives. They have a lot of pride in their<br />
company and are focused on the right stuff.”<br />
He’s focused on his golf game at the moment,<br />
playing “some of the worst golf on some of the<br />
world’s best courses,” he jokes. Every day he<br />
is grateful for his good fortune. Says the serial<br />
entrepreneur and average golfer: “I am your<br />
normal blue-collar-type guy who just happened<br />
to get lucky.”<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
33
SCOTLAND’S<br />
SWINGING<br />
From a handful of new links joining the roster of classic<br />
courses to a welcome profusion of top-notch restaurants<br />
and hotels, the golf experience in its home country has<br />
never been better. // By Farhad Heydari<br />
MARK ALEXANDER<br />
TEEING OFF<br />
34 <strong>NetJets</strong>
FOR TENNIS FANS, it’s a trip to Wimbledon. For<br />
devotees of cricket, it’s a visit to Lord’s. And<br />
for golfers, nothing represents a pilgrimage to<br />
the birthplace of the game more than a visit to<br />
Scotland, the home of golf. But unlike the former<br />
or the latter, in Scotland visitors can actually<br />
play the very hallowed courses that have been<br />
inscribed in legend and lore, walking the same<br />
fairways and challenging the same greens (with<br />
some stipulations) that have vexed and befuddled<br />
the great and good for decades, if not centuries.<br />
And while Caledonia’s golfing charms remain<br />
as etched into the countryside as the many<br />
trademark revetted pot bunkers and fescue-lined<br />
fairways that are omnipresent throughout the<br />
land, there are changes afoot in the landscape<br />
of the game. Thanks to an influx of investment,<br />
much of it foreign, the great game and its hotel<br />
and restaurant ancillaries have seen a bounty of<br />
tempered and well-considered development over<br />
the past 12 to 24 months, from the west to the<br />
east of the country where the saltire flies.<br />
And now, the stage is set for a year unlike<br />
any other: The 150th Open Championship<br />
returned to St. Andrews’ Old Course this summer<br />
(complete with a Tiger roaming the grounds)<br />
and the British Senior Open will be contested<br />
across the King’s Course of Gleneagles. Add to<br />
that, tee sheets that are already booked solid<br />
(chock-a-block in local parlance) at vaunted<br />
tracks like Craighead Links and Royal Dornoch<br />
and it’s easy to see why it’s set to be a sizzling<br />
Scottish summer (forecast not guaranteed!) for<br />
anyone who opts to visit.<br />
BURNISHED TO PERFECTION<br />
As The Open returned home for its 150th edition,<br />
St. Andrews has never looked better.<br />
WHERE TO PLAY<br />
Don’t fret if you can’t get on The Old Course. Just<br />
nine miles south of St. Andrews is Britain’s newest<br />
golfing jewel, Dumbarnie Links (dumbarnielinks.<br />
com). Designed by Clive Clark (a member of the<br />
1973 Great Britain and Ireland Ryder Cup team),<br />
this newcomer occupies the last great piece of<br />
coastal land in the area: a 1.5-mile stretch of<br />
waterfront on the south coast of Fife featuring<br />
panoramas over the Firth of Forth from every<br />
hole. Studded with more than 600 dunes and<br />
playing as a 6,905-yard par 72, the unique<br />
two-tiered site has already played host in its<br />
first full year of operation to the 2021 Women’s<br />
Scottish Open and, thanks to its daily fee model,<br />
has become an instant must-play with devotees<br />
of the game who have rushed from mainland<br />
Europe and the U.S. to see what all the fuss is<br />
about. “There are magnificent views from every<br />
hole—if one considers the courses on The Open<br />
Championship rota, many have little or no water<br />
views,” says Clark, aptly, of the sure-to-classic<br />
track with a mix of gently swaying risk-reward<br />
doglegs, holes with split-fairways, punishing pot<br />
bunkers juxtaposed with the natural sandy variety<br />
which are “surrounded by tall fescue grasses<br />
DINE WITH A VIEW<br />
The Swilcan Loft restaurant at the<br />
Old Course Hotel; facing page: The<br />
undulating Dumbarnie Links.<br />
waving in the wind,” according to Clark, and<br />
more than a handful of memorable holes. These<br />
include the par-three eighth: a 158-yard devilish<br />
downhiller that puts the emphasis on target golf<br />
into a well-protected postage-stamp green framed<br />
by the Firth of Forth in the background.<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Whatever you do, don’t forgo a meal at 18<br />
Restaurant (18standrews.co.uk), where<br />
reservations are not only encouraged but<br />
recommended. Helmed by Derek Johnstone<br />
and opened in September, the eatery is situated<br />
atop Rusacks St. Andrews, now part of the new<br />
Marine & Lawn Collection of resorts, with an<br />
unrivaled perch over the Old Course and West<br />
Sands Beach. But the vistas take a backseat to<br />
the deft cookery of Johnstone, a recent winner of<br />
“MasterChef: The Professionals.” Purveyed with<br />
precision in a clubby wood-paneled space is a<br />
mostly surf-and-turf open-flame menu consisting<br />
of locally sourced beef, game and freshly caught<br />
seafood, all skillfuly prepared on the state-of-theart<br />
robata grill.<br />
SUITE TALK<br />
It’s hard to sidestep the outsized footprint,<br />
reputation, and location of the Old Course Hotel<br />
(oldcoursehotel.co.uk), situated alongside the<br />
famous Road Hole, the 17th at St. Andrews. And<br />
now, following a series of much-needed upgrades<br />
and tweaks, it will be nearly impossible to do so.<br />
The property, owned by Kohler, already punches<br />
above its weight with its eponymous spa, where<br />
water and bathing experiences in all iterations,<br />
including a cold post-sauna plunge pool, form the<br />
centerpiece. But now, the hostelry has undergone<br />
a multifaceted, multimillion-dollar renovation,<br />
DON’T MISS<br />
If you can’t score a table at 18 Restaurant, make your way to BALGOVE (balgove.com),<br />
a farm shop with a trio of eateries on the outskirts of town. While you will have to<br />
queue, as it operates a no-booking policy, a seat at the Steak Barn is feted among locals<br />
and visitors alike for its superlative steaks, hung for no less than 28 days, as well as<br />
burgers and home-made sausages, all of which are cooked on a huge open wood-fired<br />
barbecue and served with twice-fried chips, or crispy beer-battered onion rings, wine<br />
and local beer. Just don’t tell your cardiologist.<br />
QUOIN IMAGES<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
35
JAMES RISDON<br />
TEEING OFF<br />
adding 31 new rooms and suites, some created<br />
by French designer Jacques Garcia, renowned<br />
for his work with Hôtel Costes in Paris and Hôtel<br />
Métropole in Monte Carlo, with views of the Old<br />
Course and a 1,320sq ft Penthouse Suite with<br />
a private elevator and a balcony with outdoor<br />
seating and fire pit. There is also a new restaurant,<br />
Swilcan Loft, with an all-day international menu<br />
derived from Scottish produce, which overlooks<br />
the iconic Jigger Inn pub and its namesake<br />
crossing: arguably the most famous bridge in all<br />
of golf on the Old Course’s 18th hole. All of which<br />
makes booking early a must—between The<br />
Open, the debut of the Old Course Hotel Pro Am<br />
(oldcoursehotelproam.com) and the perennial<br />
favorite, the Alfred Dunhill Links Championship<br />
(alfreddunhilllinks.com), it’s going to be a very<br />
busy year for the property.<br />
ALL EYES ON AYRSHIRE<br />
Stay and play along a stretch of golfing terrain<br />
unrivaled in the world.<br />
With names like Glasgow Gailes, Western<br />
Gailes, Royal Troon, Turnberry, and Prestwick,<br />
this stretch of coastline south of Glasgow is<br />
MADE IN STONE<br />
The picturesque Forter Castle<br />
in Cairngorms National Park;<br />
facing page, from top: the Glenturret<br />
Lalique Restaurant; a beach at<br />
The Machrie Links.<br />
HIDDEN GEM<br />
Often overlooked is a little-known heathland track called THE DUKE’S COURSE<br />
(thedukescourse.co.uk), located a couple of miles inland from and owned by the Old<br />
Course Hotel. Designed by five-time Open Champion Peter Thomson, it stretches to<br />
7,512 yards from the tips and flows from pockets of forest through farmlands to the<br />
hilltop par-four 13th, which affords spectacular panoramas of the town and bay of St.<br />
Andrews towards the Firth of Tay and Carnoustie. A fun, fair, and fearsome (depending<br />
on which of the five tees you choose) test of parkland golf where smart execution<br />
is at a premium and where the challenge, unlike in some of the links in Scotland, is<br />
uncomplicatedly presented before you.<br />
blessed with some of the best courses in the<br />
world. Now, a name known mostly in the British<br />
Isles, Dundonald Links (dundonaldlinks.com) is<br />
hoping to have its international close-up following<br />
an ambitious £25M investment. Designed by<br />
noted American architect Kyle Phillips (whose<br />
credits include such headlining tracks such as<br />
Kingsbarns in Fife, The Grove in Hertfordshire,<br />
the redesign of Paris’ Golf De Morfontaine, Yas<br />
Links in Abu Dhabi, and the pair of courses at<br />
Verdura in Sicily among many others), the par-<br />
72, 7,303-yard course on Scotland’s west coast<br />
is a modern links golf experience (near but not on<br />
the seafront) with generous fairways, undulating<br />
greens, strategic catch bunkers, and well-placed<br />
burns on a site that dates to 1911. But it is now<br />
complemented by a new two-story clubhouse<br />
as well as 18 luxury lodges with innumerable<br />
amenities, including a series of private putting<br />
greens for guests who overnight, right on their<br />
doorstep. It’s no wonder it is set to play host to<br />
the <strong>2022</strong> Women’s Scottish Open.<br />
For those who wish to overnight in a<br />
property with more amenities, the Marine &<br />
Lawn Collection is set to reopen the erstwhile<br />
Marine Hotel as Marine Troon (marineandlawn.<br />
com) in the so-named seaside town later this<br />
year. The 89-room property will be revitalized<br />
with new-look rooms, dining concepts, and<br />
wellness, spa and fitness facilities that include<br />
an indoor pool, sauna and steam rooms as well<br />
as something you don’t find that often: a squash<br />
court. All of this, however, takes a backseat to<br />
unobstructed views of the breathtaking Ayrshire<br />
coastline, the Isle of Arran, and the legendary<br />
Royal Troon Golf Club, a nine-time host of The<br />
Open, just at the hotel’s doorstep.<br />
36 <strong>NetJets</strong>
URBAN CHARMER<br />
Bringing some countryside flair to the Scottish capital, this<br />
summer Gleneagles debuts its second outpost in one of<br />
Edinburgh’s most historic heritage buildings, the former Bank<br />
of Scotland edifice on St. Andrew Square. Dubbed GLENEAGLES<br />
TOWNHO<strong>US</strong>E (gleneaglestownhouse.com), the 33-room hotel<br />
will comprise a bustling all-day restaurant helmed by head<br />
chef Jonny Wright, whose previous stints include running<br />
Jason Atherton’s Berner’s Tavern, a lively members’ club and<br />
a rooftop bar, with views over the city’s storied skyline. There<br />
will also be a gym and wellness facilities, housed in the bank’s<br />
former vault, which will be available to guests and those select<br />
in-towners. The grandeur of the building, with its soaring spaces<br />
and decorative period moldings and motifs, are reflected in<br />
an interior design palette that mixes classicism (think: antique<br />
lighting, ornate cornicing, stone columns, ornamental gold<br />
details) with fresh colors and modern artwork in a space that is<br />
sure to become the city’s creative hub.<br />
Down the coast, the Scottish baronial-style<br />
Glenapp Castle (glenappcastle.com) also had<br />
a nip-and-a-tuck. In addition to launching<br />
The Endeavour Penthouse Castle Apartment,<br />
a sprawling, self-contained penthouse spread<br />
across 4,500 square feet and tucked away on<br />
its own floor accessible by private elevator, it<br />
has put the emphasis firmly on the gastronomy<br />
offerings with a bevy of debuts, including a new<br />
restaurant, a new chef, and its unique private<br />
dining experiences, such as the Hebridean<br />
Sea Safari, which has added new tents, a new<br />
communal tent and a hot tub. Back on terra<br />
firma, gorgeous botanical gardens beckon<br />
guests who can also try their hand at croquet<br />
and falconry, the myriad other daily experiences<br />
(such as evening celestial walks with an in-house<br />
astronomer), notwithstanding.<br />
RETO GUNTLI<br />
HIGHLAND HAPPENINGS<br />
A trio of essential stopovers for bedding down,<br />
tucking in, and kicking back.<br />
There is no shortage of places to call home in<br />
this prelapsarian part of the world. But skip<br />
the beautifully bijou 16th-century Forter Castle<br />
(fortercastle.com) at your own peril. Situated<br />
in the heart of Perthshire, inside Cairngorms<br />
National Park, this five-floored towered stone<br />
citadel was rescued by the Pooley family brickby-brick<br />
back in 1988 and has been lovingly<br />
restored by the scion, noted interior designer<br />
Katharine Pooley. Expect refined touches such as<br />
four-poster beds and high-thread count sheets;<br />
cut-crystal decanters and stemware; acres and<br />
acres of family tweed and tartan; dozens of oil<br />
paintings, ceremonial swords, and crests and<br />
coat-of-arms strewn around the exclusive-use<br />
property, which is now both a family home and<br />
a holiday rental sleeping up to 12 guests (plus<br />
three dogs). For hopeless romantics, there’s even<br />
a chapel, should a stay prove truly life-changing.<br />
Over in Crieff, Scotland’s oldest working<br />
distillery now has one of the country’s most<br />
refined fine-dining experiences: The Glenturret<br />
Lalique Restaurant (theglenturret.com). Backed<br />
by the deep pockets of the French glassware,<br />
fragrance, and parfum house that now owns the<br />
© THE MACHRIE<br />
<strong>NetJets</strong><br />
37
© MACHRIHANISH DUNES<br />
BRENDAN MACNEILL<br />
© THE MACHRIE<br />
© THE MACHRIE<br />
TEEING OFF<br />
38 <strong>NetJets</strong>
distillery, it drafted in head chef Mark Donald<br />
last fall who, in less than six months, burnished<br />
his already impressive culinary credentials<br />
by securing a Michelin star for the site. His<br />
precise execution, delicate flavors, exquisite<br />
attention to detail, and stunning presentation<br />
are evident in the multicourse tasting menu with<br />
locally sourced ingredients that are paired to a<br />
substantial and impressive wine list, curated by<br />
executive sommelier Julien Beltzung. Service is<br />
unimpeachable, as is the sizable selection of rare<br />
and aged whiskies on offer in the bar.<br />
One watering hole that you won’t be able to<br />
readily access is the aptly named Secret Bar at<br />
Gleneagles (gleneagles.com). Reserved for the<br />
resort’s nearest and dearest, the back-of-house<br />
shoebox venue is an unmarked speakeasy<br />
to which one must be escorted. Once there,<br />
you’re enveloped by period furnishings, dulcet<br />
background tones of jazz and blues, and perfectly<br />
executed cocktails that instantly transport you to<br />
Prohibition-era hangouts of yesteryear. Just don’t<br />
expect the resort to acknowledge its existence—<br />
like any proper speakeasy, mum’s the word.<br />
LURE OF KINTYRE<br />
Campbeltown and its surrounds in Scotland’s<br />
southwest are worthy of a journey.<br />
WHERE TO PLAY<br />
Most low-handicappers who make the trek to<br />
this remote big-sky isthmus head straight for<br />
Machrihanish Golf Club, rightly considered one<br />
of the most special places to play in the whole of<br />
Britain and Ireland. However, just up the coast<br />
lies homegrown architect David McLay-Kidd’s<br />
Machrihanish Dunes (machrihanishdunes.com):<br />
as authentic an experience of how this ancient<br />
game was once played as you’ll find, well,<br />
nowhere else in the world. This under-presented<br />
7,175-yard, par-72 is in harmony and within<br />
nature. It has to be: because it lies on a Site of<br />
Special Scientific Interest (the only course ever<br />
built to have this recognition), the use of fertilizers<br />
and pesticides is forbidden; the same goes for the<br />
installation of irrigation and drainage. Instead,<br />
McLay-Kidd, whose previous credits include<br />
such blockbuster layouts such as Bandon Dunes<br />
in Oregon, Queenwood in England, and Laucala<br />
in Fiji, to name just three, has taken the natural<br />
hollows, valleys, and ridges, all set hard on the<br />
shores of the Atlantic, to fashion a course that is<br />
golf in its purest form: natural and wild, with no<br />
fewer than six greens and five tees at the ocean’s<br />
edge. You’ll need a windproof game, patience,<br />
and lots of balls to tackle this unique entity, where<br />
more than a handful of blind approaches, natural<br />
bunkers, and a landscape unaltered in millennia<br />
challenge. “Mach Dunes was the most minimal<br />
build ever,” he told “Golf World” magazine once.<br />
“Even Old Tom would have been impressed!”<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Book successive reservations for some of the<br />
freshest seafood you’ll find at Number Forty Two<br />
(gmat42.com), the brainchild of chef Gordon<br />
NATURE’S BOUNTY<br />
With a petite portfolio of just two inns and a quartet of self-catering cottages,<br />
WILDLAND (wildland.scot) is not only a collective of charming retreats for the outdoorsy<br />
set and those who wish to connect with nature, but also an organization that is a<br />
custodian of three vast Scottish estates with a focus on conservation, and community<br />
and, a dedication to the rehabilitation of some of Scotland’s most precious landscapes.<br />
SCOTLAND’S BOUNTY<br />
Clockwise from top left: Fresh<br />
seafood at The Machrie Links;<br />
aerial view of The Machrie course;<br />
rustic dining at Machrihanish Dunes;<br />
one-time Open champion Darren<br />
Clarke at the course in Kintyre.<br />
McNeill. Located in Campbeltown, this newcomer<br />
is a low-key showcase of grilled and game meats,<br />
seafood, and shellfish, all presented with aplomb<br />
to a mostly local clientele. The seasonal menu is<br />
an ever-changing one but if available, don’t forgo<br />
the lobster, langoustine, and stone crab or, for<br />
that matter, the mussels and the scallops. You<br />
won’t be disappointed.<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
There are a trio of options for overnighting in<br />
the area—all of which, alongside Machrihanish<br />
Dunes, are owned and operated by<br />
Massachusetts-based Southworth Development.<br />
Situated on the seashore, Ugadale Hotel &<br />
Cottages (ugadalecottages.co.uk) is modest<br />
in presentation and amenities but eminently<br />
comfortable, with standout service. In the centre<br />
of nearby Campbeltown, The Royal Hotel boasts<br />
23 guest rooms and suites as well as a pair of<br />
eateries.<br />
WORTH A DETOUR<br />
Known mostly to whisky connoisseurs, the<br />
windswept isle of Islay (pronounced EYE-l ), 15<br />
miles off Scotland’s west coast, hasn’t really been<br />
on the radar of 36-a-day types. That all changed<br />
in 2018 with the relaunch of The Machrie<br />
Links (themachrielinks.com) on a landmass<br />
home to some of the most lauded distilleries in<br />
the world, with names like Ardbeg, Bowmore,<br />
and Laphroaig, nine in all. Originally created<br />
in 1891, the bonsai-perfect course that shines<br />
today on Laggan Bay is effectively a newbie,<br />
refashioned and rebuilt from an ancient footprint<br />
by European Tour veteran and European Ryder<br />
Cup vice-captain D.J. Russell. And it’s a beauty:<br />
A playful, penal, and pretty track measuring a<br />
modest 6,782 yards by today’s standards that<br />
weaves and wends its way in, out, and around<br />
the ruggedly natural omnipresent dunes on this<br />
stretch of the southernmost island of the Inner<br />
Hebrides. Just seven of the original greens remain<br />
but many of them are contoured and surrounded<br />
by strategically placed bunkers and mounding as<br />
well as native grasses that frame them to the eye<br />
on long approaches, giving the course (unlike<br />
some links tracks) visual depth. The lapping<br />
waters of the Atlantic are never far away—nor<br />
are the other accoutrements including the sixhole<br />
short course, an extensive pitching and<br />
putting area, and, of course, the driving range.<br />
It’s all located on the doorstep of the bijou and<br />
even newer 47-room hotel-cum-clubhouse that<br />
has a whimsical and brightly colored Scottish-<br />
Scandi design ethos and all the chic mod cons<br />
you’d expect, as well as a vast vaulted ceiling<br />
under which a welcoming bar and restaurant<br />
are located and, for wellness, a spa, gym, and<br />
sauna downstairs.<br />
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TEEING OFF<br />
I N T H E D E T A I L S<br />
Two key aspects of every golfer’s kit have upped the ante<br />
this year: shoes and wedges. // By Matt Saternus<br />
Golfers have never had more choices when<br />
it comes to footwear. From traditional wingtips<br />
to modern, sneaker-inspired designs, the<br />
styles run the gamut, as do the performance<br />
characteristics. Every type of player will<br />
find a shoe to love on this list.<br />
Clockwise from top left:<br />
ROYAL ALBARTROSS PONTIAC<br />
V2 MAJOR<br />
High-end maker Royal Albartross celebrates<br />
the Major season with this special edition<br />
of its Pontiac golf shoe. The classic sneaker<br />
profile is accented with a green leather<br />
heel panel with a subtle magnolia print.<br />
albartross.com<br />
FOOTJOY FUEL<br />
The FootJoy Fuel shows the company’s<br />
willingness to go beyond the traditional<br />
leather wingtip. A sneaker-inspired look<br />
and out-of-the-box comfort put the Fuel<br />
on a level with the best modern golf shoes.<br />
footjoy.com<br />
CUATER MONEY MAKER<br />
The Money Maker has a casual look that<br />
belies serious performance. Despite having<br />
a knit upper, this shoe is totally waterproof,<br />
and the rigid, triangular nubs provide<br />
excellent footing, even in slippy conditions.<br />
travismathew.com<br />
ECCO BIOM H4<br />
Ecco is unsurpassed when it comes to<br />
using the highest quality materials in its<br />
golf shoes. The leather upper is enhanced<br />
with GORE-TEX to provide the ultimate in<br />
waterproofing. An OrthoLite insole provides<br />
cushioning and breathability. ecco.com<br />
UNDER ARMOUR SPIETH 5 SPIKELESS<br />
Jordan Spieth’s first signature shoe without<br />
replaceable spikes has a wide base and<br />
aggressive sole to give it plenty of traction<br />
for those all-out swings from the tee.<br />
underarmour.com<br />
COLE HAAN<br />
Cole Haan’s three new golf offerings<br />
include a traditional wingtip, a modern<br />
knit-style shoe, and a classic sneaker.<br />
They vary not only the styles but the<br />
soles too: The Generation ZERØGRAND<br />
has a very light tread where the others<br />
provide more traction. colehaan.com<br />
PAYNTR X 001 F<br />
The first golf offering from Payntr shows<br />
the founders’ deep understanding of<br />
footwork and biomechanics. Though it’s<br />
technically “spikeless”, this is one of<br />
the most stable golf shoes on the market.<br />
payntr.com<br />
TRUE LINKSWEAR ALL DAY RIPSTOP<br />
TRUE is a favorite among walking golfers<br />
for its lightweight, minimalist shoes. The<br />
All Day Ripstop aspires to grow the brand<br />
beyond golf with style and comfort that fit in<br />
on and off the course. truelinkswear.com<br />
G/FORE MG4X 2<br />
G/FORE dials up its modern stylings to<br />
ten with the MG4X 2 . Miles from anything<br />
Hogan wore, these sneaker-style shoes<br />
provide tremendous comfort thanks to a<br />
thickly cushioned midsole. gfore.com<br />
ADIDAS TOUR360 22<br />
Adidas’s flagship golf shoe gets more<br />
athletic and comfortable for <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
360Wrap locks your foot into place and<br />
BOOST creates a cushioned feeling<br />
underfoot. This shoe is also greener, being<br />
made in part from recycled materials.<br />
adidas.com<br />
40 <strong>NetJets</strong>
1 2 3 4<br />
When we think of technology in golf clubs, wedges don’t usually<br />
spring to mind, but they’ve been undergoing major changes in the last<br />
few years to help us all hit more short shots to tap-in range.<br />
5 6 7<br />
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE COMPANIES<br />
1 PXG SUGAR<br />
DADDY II<br />
PXG’s new super<br />
premium wedge<br />
has a major, visible<br />
upgrade over the<br />
previous version:<br />
Precision Weighting<br />
Technology. The<br />
large weight in the<br />
back of the head<br />
can be changed<br />
to allow golfers to<br />
dial in their perfect<br />
swing weight for<br />
improved feel and<br />
consistency.<br />
pxg.com<br />
2 TAYLORMADE<br />
MG3<br />
TaylorMade is<br />
best known for<br />
its drivers, but<br />
the MG3 shows a<br />
growing skill in the<br />
short game. This<br />
raw-faced wedge<br />
produces elite<br />
levels of spin and<br />
offers numerous<br />
sole options,<br />
including a replica<br />
of Tiger Woods’s<br />
personal grind.<br />
taylormadegolf.com<br />
3 CALLAWAY JAWS<br />
FULL TOE RAW<br />
Callaway’s newest<br />
JAWS wedge<br />
features grooves<br />
that extend all<br />
the way across<br />
the raw face and<br />
a higher toe. This<br />
combination makes<br />
it an ideal choice<br />
for players who<br />
regularly use flop<br />
shots, but it’s a<br />
strong performer<br />
on full shots, too.<br />
callawaygolf.com<br />
4 TITLEIST<br />
VOKEY SM9<br />
The latest version<br />
of the top wedge<br />
on Tour has been<br />
upgraded with new<br />
manufacturing<br />
processes and<br />
modified CGs. A<br />
new way of cutting<br />
grooves promises<br />
more durability and<br />
spin that matches<br />
the way each<br />
wedge is used on<br />
the course.<br />
titleist.com<br />
5 CLEVELAND<br />
CBX ZIPCORE<br />
Cleveland has<br />
become a leader in<br />
cavity back wedges,<br />
reminding golfers<br />
that if forgiveness<br />
is good in their<br />
irons, it’s good<br />
in their wedges,<br />
too. The cavity<br />
back design pairs<br />
with a wide sole<br />
for a wedge that<br />
produces consistent<br />
results, even from<br />
inconsistent swings.<br />
clevelandgolf.com<br />
6 PING GLIDE 4.0<br />
PING’s Glide wedges<br />
are renowned<br />
for offering<br />
golfers enhanced<br />
forgiveness in a<br />
traditional looking<br />
wedge. Loft-specific<br />
grooves and a<br />
new Emery face<br />
coating create<br />
high, consistent<br />
spin. Four grinds,<br />
including the classic<br />
Eye2 sole, allow<br />
golfers to have the<br />
right sole for any<br />
condition. ping.com<br />
7 MIZUNO T-22<br />
The new T-22<br />
wedges offer golfers<br />
a tremendously<br />
soft feel and four<br />
sole designs.<br />
A microlayer of<br />
copper is inserted<br />
beneath the finish<br />
to enhance Mizuno’s<br />
trademark forged<br />
feel. Quad Cut<br />
Milled grooves<br />
promise to keep<br />
short shots spinning<br />
even after hours of<br />
pitching practice.<br />
mizunogolf.com<br />
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41
JÖRN KASPUHL<br />
LIVING WELL<br />
42 <strong>NetJets</strong>
REWIRING<br />
THE MIND<br />
Training the body is only part of the wellness<br />
journey, say cutting-edge doctors and<br />
researchers. To achieve lasting results, you<br />
need to target the brain, too. // By Jen Murphy<br />
WE INVEST A LOT OF TIME and money training our physical bodies,<br />
but in an age of non-stop screen-time and overstimulation,<br />
our brains need more love than our biceps. Too much brain<br />
activity can lead to mental fatigue, and research has shown<br />
that chronic stress, whether from work deadlines or simply the<br />
current state of the world, can cause structural changes in the<br />
brain, including atrophy in the area associated with decision<br />
making and goal-directed behaviors. When we are stressed, our<br />
brains take in less information, and we become less flexible in<br />
our responses to the stressful situation. This ultimately wires us<br />
to be more stressed. The good news is there have never been<br />
more ways to rewire the brain.<br />
The human brain is composed of approximately 100 billion<br />
neurons. Scientists believe production of new neurons stops<br />
shortly after birth. Neurons that are used frequently develop<br />
stronger connections than those that are rarely used, and by<br />
developing new connections they can adapt to the changing<br />
environment. Neuroplasticity refers to the brain’s ability to change<br />
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43
LIVING WELL<br />
or be infl uenced by an experience. Training our brains to adapt and<br />
change, especially when the wiring goes haywire, can enhance our<br />
existing cognitive functions, strengthen areas of function in decline,<br />
aid in learning new skills, and improve brain fi tness. Elite athletes<br />
are using neuroplasticity in their training to get not only faster and<br />
stronger but recover from injuries, and burnt-out executives are<br />
turning to brain training to revive their overworked minds.<br />
Andrew Huberman, a neuroscientist at Stanford University who<br />
studies how the brain interprets the world around us, has said<br />
the brain moves in and out of states of fear, anxiety, courage, or<br />
calm, and we can often consciously control how it does this by<br />
using our bodies. Studies have shown, for example, that systematic<br />
meditation practice can act like an antidote to effects of stress on<br />
the brain. Research from Harvard Medical School has also shown<br />
that meditation may be associated with structural changes in areas<br />
of the brain that are important for emotional, cognitive, and sensory<br />
processing and may even affect age-related declines.<br />
Meditation isn’t the only way to shift our brain. Light therapy,<br />
gaming, neuro-stimulating headsets, and perhaps adopting a diet<br />
of brain-boosting foods can shift the way you think and react to<br />
experiences. Research has also shown brain training can change<br />
habits, teaching a night owl to be a morning person or a chronic<br />
stress eater to stop mindlessly snacking. Brain health has become<br />
such a hot topic it’s even become a staple at top spa retreats around<br />
the world. Here’s a glimpse at the latest gadgets and getaways that<br />
will renew and reshape your brain for peak performance.<br />
Spa Trend: Cognitive Health<br />
Forget six-pack abs or dewy skin, the latest spa therapies give your brain a boost.<br />
CHENOT PALACE WEGGIS,<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
Lauded Swiss wellness<br />
brand Chenot’s new flagship<br />
(pictured), located on Lake<br />
Lucerne, incorporates a roster<br />
of the latest neuroscience<br />
technologies to help restore<br />
the body to its natural<br />
rhythms. Neuro-acoustic<br />
deep relaxation, for example,<br />
uses neurochemistry and<br />
auditory signals to transition<br />
the autonomic nervous system<br />
out of fight-or-flight mode and<br />
bring it into a parasympathetic<br />
state of tranquility. And<br />
whole-body photobiomodulation<br />
promotes cellular metabolism<br />
and reduces stress<br />
through the application of<br />
specific light wavelengths.<br />
chenotpalaceweggis.com<br />
ZURICH AIRPORT: 40 miles<br />
SAMAHITA RETREAT,<br />
KOH SAMUI, THAILAND<br />
If you’ve been experiencing<br />
brain fog, you could benefit<br />
from this spa and yoga<br />
center’s new Brain Health<br />
Upgrade Program. Red light<br />
therapy immediately gives your<br />
mind an energy boost while<br />
stimulating mitochondria and<br />
melatonin production, and<br />
audio-visual entrainment (a<br />
series of flashing lights and<br />
pulses that guides the brain<br />
into chill mode) sessions<br />
increase cerebral blood flow.<br />
Top it off with organic meals<br />
and breathwork training and<br />
your brain will feel renewed.<br />
samahitaretreat.com<br />
KOH SAMUI AIRPORT: 16 miles<br />
SIX SENSES SHAHARUT,<br />
NEGEV DESERT, ISRAEL<br />
Hidden away among the<br />
towering dunes of the Arava<br />
Valley, newly opened Six Senses<br />
Shaharut offers one-day Mind<br />
Your Brain programs designed<br />
to eliminate brain fog and<br />
mental fatigue. Mind-focused<br />
activities such as yoga nidra<br />
classes are complemented<br />
by journaling workshops and<br />
meals rich in foods linked to<br />
brainpower (walnuts, kale,<br />
berries). sixsenses.com<br />
RAMON INTERNATIONAL<br />
AIRPORT: 42 miles<br />
FOUR SEASONS<br />
RESORT OAHU AT<br />
KO OLINA, HAWAII<br />
Naupaka Spa at Four Seasons<br />
Resort Oahu at Ko Olina<br />
boasts the world’s first virtual<br />
reality wellness journey. The<br />
Vessel, a futuristic-looking pod<br />
created by immersive wellness<br />
company Sensync, combines<br />
aromatherapy, vibroacoustic<br />
stimulation, sound therapy,<br />
virtual reality, and meditation<br />
to draw your focus away<br />
from goal-directed thoughts<br />
to allow restoration from<br />
cognitive fatigue. Users can<br />
choose from 20- to 80-minute<br />
experiences such as Crystal<br />
Cave or Floating Clouds. It’s<br />
like a massage for the brain.<br />
fourseasons.com<br />
HONOLULU AIRPORT: 20 miles<br />
ALEX TE<strong>US</strong>CHER<br />
44 <strong>NetJets</strong>
Mental Tricks for Maintaining<br />
A Healthy Routine on the Road<br />
JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />
Michelle Segar, life coach and author of a new book,<br />
The Joy Choice: How to Finally Achieve Lasting Changes in Eating<br />
and Exercise, says sticking to a healthy lifestyle away from home<br />
is all about embracing the right mindset.<br />
We all have good intentions<br />
when it comes to diet<br />
and exercise but then life<br />
happens—a last-minute work<br />
meeting cuts into gym time,<br />
a kid’s birthday party ruins<br />
your diet with a slice of cake.<br />
How do we stick to our good<br />
intentions? Daily challenges<br />
always throw curve balls at<br />
our self-care plans. I call these<br />
unexpected hurdles choice<br />
points. Rather than think<br />
of that meeting as defeat,<br />
see it as an opportunity to<br />
think flexibly and to change<br />
your game plan. To achieve<br />
consistency in the long run, we<br />
can’t aim for perfection all the<br />
time. It’s not realistic.<br />
Maintaining a workout routine<br />
is hard enough at home.<br />
Do you have any strategies<br />
for avoiding lapses on the<br />
road? People often fall out<br />
of an exercise routine at<br />
home or while traveling<br />
because they have an all-ornothing<br />
approach. Adopting<br />
a something-is-better-thannothing<br />
mentality is particularly<br />
helpful on the road. Have a<br />
plan A, B, and C, and build in<br />
creative options. If your hotel<br />
doesn’t have a gym, is there<br />
a park nearby to walk in? The<br />
perfect imperfect option lets us<br />
do something versus nothing.<br />
What about tips for sticking<br />
to a healthy diet on the road?<br />
Home or away, if it’s too<br />
restrictive, it’s too hard and<br />
you miss out on pleasurable<br />
opportunities. Research shows<br />
people are more likely to stick<br />
with a healthy eating plan<br />
when they take breaks on the<br />
weekend. Ahead of a work trip,<br />
research restaurant options at<br />
and near your hotel and always<br />
pack healthy snacks.<br />
What are some pitfalls that<br />
lead to falling out of a routine?<br />
Psychiatrist Dan Siegel coined<br />
the phrase “name it to tame<br />
it”—meaning being able<br />
to name and recognize our<br />
emotions. This gives us more<br />
power to choose how we<br />
react to them. People need to<br />
recognize their decision traps<br />
and temptations. If you feel<br />
overwhelmed and stressed<br />
by the idea of fitting in a<br />
60-minute workout on the road,<br />
you can say, “Screw it” and skip<br />
it or you can say, “I’m going to<br />
do 20 minutes of yoga in my<br />
hotel room instead of running<br />
today.”<br />
Can we really train the brain to<br />
make conscious choices? Yes.<br />
By supporting our brain’s innate<br />
self-management and its three<br />
primary executive functions—<br />
working memory, flexible<br />
thinking, and inhibition—we<br />
can stop letting life burst our<br />
bubble and instead take charge.<br />
It’s all about training our brain<br />
to think in the moment of<br />
choice. Name the problem or<br />
emotion, come up with options<br />
that build you up to succeed,<br />
and make choices that bring<br />
you joy. You will fall off course,<br />
but it’s the ability to be resilient<br />
rather than throw in the towel<br />
that leads to success.<br />
Meditate Your Way to a Younger Brain<br />
Research has shown meditating increases gray matter in the brain, which slows the aging process<br />
and improves attention and memory. Here are three apps to help you hone your focus.<br />
CALM<br />
Meditation recommendations<br />
are based on your goals and<br />
experience level. Users can<br />
dip into 10-minute Daily<br />
Calm sessions or immerse<br />
in courses like the 7 Days of<br />
Focus. calm.com<br />
HEADSPACE<br />
This popular mental<br />
health app includes a<br />
10-day beginner’s course<br />
as well as specific<br />
programs focused on<br />
everything from building<br />
self-esteem to deep<br />
sleep. headspace.com<br />
HEALTHY MINDS PROGRAM<br />
The University of Wisconsin-<br />
Madison developed this free<br />
app to convince newbies that<br />
meditation is mental training rather<br />
than a spiritual practice. Five- to<br />
30-minute programs help users tap<br />
into intentions like awareness and<br />
connection. hminnovations.org<br />
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45
LIVING WELL<br />
GADGETS TO HACK YOUR NEURONS<br />
MENDI<br />
Avoid senior moments and improve performance with this brain-training<br />
headband. Sensors measure your neural activity. You strengthen<br />
them by playing games on the app, like trying to make a ball rise by<br />
concentrating. Users have seen improved focus and recall with 15<br />
minutes of training a week. mendi.io<br />
FOC<strong>US</strong>CALM EEG HEADBAND<br />
The coordinating app’s series of meditations and games themed<br />
around both calm and focus train the brain to slow down even<br />
in the most stressful situations. To gamify the program, users<br />
are awarded a score of 0-100 based on 1,250 data points in our<br />
brainwave signals. focuscalm.com<br />
HALO SPORT 2<br />
The creators of this wearable<br />
neurostimulator headset claim<br />
that when worn during training<br />
it promotes muscle memory<br />
development up to 45% faster.<br />
Athletes see results in two to<br />
three weeks; average Joes see<br />
improvement faster.<br />
haloneuro.com<br />
M<strong>US</strong>E S<br />
This soft, sensor-packed headband syncs with the Muse app<br />
to improve sleep quality. The app’s “musical digital sleeping<br />
pills,” such as soundscapes and biofeedback, respond to your<br />
brain activity. If you wake, for example, the audio increases to<br />
lull you back to sleep. choosemuse.com<br />
FLOW NEUROSCIENCE HEADSET<br />
This direct current stimulation device and therapy app is<br />
a medication-free alternative for people who suffer from<br />
depression. Five 30-minute sessions a week have been<br />
shown to stop negative spirals in less than three weeks.<br />
flowneuroscience.com<br />
COURTESY THE COMPANIES<br />
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Good Vibrations<br />
Mind Games<br />
Gillian Bower, high performance director of U.S.<br />
Ski & Snowboard in Park City, Utah, shares how the<br />
secret to peak performance, recovery, and injury<br />
prevention may just be all in your head.<br />
How do you apply the concept<br />
of neuroplasticity within the<br />
context of athletic training?<br />
The brain must coordinate<br />
with muscle groups to execute<br />
athletic movements. Through<br />
repetition, elite athletes can<br />
execute trained movements<br />
without much thought.<br />
U.S. alpine ski racer Breezy<br />
Johnson has said neuro-cog<br />
classes were key to rehabbing<br />
the knee injury that kept her<br />
out of the Beij ing Olympics.<br />
How can brain training help<br />
with recovery? A muscle<br />
heals, but the brain doesn’t<br />
treat the leg the same way.<br />
We need to re-automate the<br />
brain to trust that leg again.<br />
After an ACL tear, it requires<br />
substantially more brain<br />
activation to achieve motion<br />
than in a non-injured ACL.<br />
Physical therapy used to teach<br />
athletes to focus the brain<br />
on precise movements in the<br />
injured limb, but now we’re<br />
thinking that can be more<br />
detrimental when they go<br />
back to a sport environment.<br />
What makes the sport<br />
environment different? In<br />
ski racing you’re taking in<br />
a lot of stimuli at 70 miles<br />
per hour. You don’t have<br />
time to dedicate a large<br />
portion of your brain to knee<br />
extension. We need to make<br />
sure the athlete’s brain can<br />
do what it has to do without<br />
overthinking.<br />
JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />
How have you adapted your<br />
recovery practices as a result?<br />
We used to focus on the body<br />
when we cued an activity by<br />
saying things like straighten<br />
your leg or keep moving.<br />
Now we use external cues to<br />
make athletes think outside of<br />
the body. For a soccer player<br />
trying to walk after surgery<br />
that might be to kick a soccer<br />
ball with each step rather than<br />
straighten your leg. We also<br />
remove mirrors, so athletes<br />
have to rely on neuropathways<br />
beyond their eyes to tell them<br />
their knee is bending.<br />
Johnson mentioned the<br />
athletes play a lot of games<br />
in rehab. Can you explain?<br />
We call it contextual<br />
interference or dual tasking.<br />
In the gym, we fi xate on<br />
perfect repetitions that train<br />
the brain to do one thing.<br />
Few athletes just hold a squat<br />
while playing a sport. When<br />
an athlete is relearning to<br />
fi re their quad after surgery<br />
we might have them fi ring<br />
the muscle while throwing<br />
a ball at the wall or solving<br />
a math problem. When they<br />
can do their activity without<br />
thinking we retrain the brain<br />
to anticipate movement.<br />
I might gently push the<br />
athlete as they hold a position<br />
to train the motor control<br />
needed within a complex<br />
environment. This style of<br />
training engages multiple<br />
parts of the brain.<br />
Since the mists of time, cultures around the world—Tibetan monks<br />
with their singing bowls and Australian Aborigines with their<br />
bellowing didgeridoos—have achieved meditative states through<br />
sound vibrations. Modern research has borne out what ancients knew:<br />
Sound waves created by certain tones shift our brainwaves from<br />
the beta state (normal consciousness) to the relaxed theta state and<br />
the deeply restorative delta. Today, sound therapy is based on the<br />
Solfeggio frequencies, a sequence of harmonic tones derived from the<br />
chants of 11th century Benedictine monks. Each frequency (measured<br />
in units of Hertz) has a different therapeutic benefit. Here’s your<br />
musical cheat sheet to achieving tranquility.<br />
Where to Tune In<br />
174 Hz: Often described as energetic anesthesia, this low<br />
frequency relaxes muscles to relieve tension and pain.<br />
285 Hz: Regenerates tissues and enhances the immune system<br />
to leave you feeling energized.<br />
396 Hz: Associated with the root chakra, this vibration alleviates<br />
feelings of fear and anxiety.<br />
417 Hz: Wipes out negative energy and thoughts.<br />
528 Hz: Known as the miracle tone, it has been used by<br />
biochemists to repair DNA.<br />
639 Hz: Connected to the heart chakra, this vibration<br />
stimulates compassion.<br />
741 Hz: Hones focus and encourages self-expression.<br />
852 Hz: Helps tap into our intuition.<br />
963 Hz: Activates the pineal gland in our brain, which regulates<br />
melatonin, a hormone that regulates sleep.<br />
Sound bathing has become as common as massage therapies<br />
at these top spas around the globe.<br />
Spa Alkemia at ZADÚN, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE<br />
in San José del Cabo, Mexico, has a dedicated<br />
sound therapy room with a vibrating floor. A<br />
therapist customizes blocks of pre-recorded music<br />
set to specific frequencies based on your needs<br />
(restoration, calm). As you lie on the floor, you’ll feel<br />
the vibrations and sounds resonating throughout your<br />
body to relax both muscles and mind. Think of it as a<br />
musical massage. ritzcarlton.com<br />
LOS CABOS AIRPORT: 14 miles<br />
Home to the first international outpost of NYC’s<br />
cult spa, The Well, HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA, AN<br />
AUBERGE RESORT takes advantage of its stunning<br />
natural setting on 180 acres in southern Costa Rica.<br />
Immersive treatments include soaking in a riverside<br />
tub and allowing the sounds of the babbling water<br />
and singing birds to cleanse your aura. After, tack<br />
on a lunar gong bath ceremony to restore energetic<br />
balance in the body. aubergeresorts.com<br />
PEREZ ZELEDÓN AIRPORT: 14 miles<br />
Created exclusively for One&Only Resorts, Nature’s<br />
Resonance by ESPA offered at ONE&ONLY ROYAL<br />
MIRAGE in Dubai draws on the therapeutic powers<br />
of binaural beats, the Solfeggio scale and the<br />
natural sounds and rhythms of Arabia to help<br />
restore harmonious balance to body and mind.<br />
Guests can choose to add an element of touch and<br />
have the therapist use gentle flowing movements<br />
across the face and body that mirror the rhythm of<br />
the music. oneandonlyresorts.com<br />
DUBAI AIRPORT: 19 miles<br />
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LIVING WELL<br />
THESE TRIPS WILL<br />
LITERALLY CHANGE<br />
YOUR LIFE<br />
The newest retreats are focused on long-term habit change rather than quick fixes.<br />
GRAND RESORT BAD RAGAZ,<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, one hour outside<br />
Zurich, this palatial spa-retreat has a team of<br />
doctors specializing in everything from neurology<br />
to orthopedics. The signature NEWYOU Method is<br />
rooted in creating lifestyle transformation based on<br />
eight protective factors (restorative sleep, exercise)<br />
that boost physical and psychological health. The<br />
four-day My Microbiome package, for example,<br />
restores your gut flora’s natural balance through<br />
gastrointestinal examinations and custom meals,<br />
while nutritional coaching provides you tools to<br />
maintain a nutritious diet back home. resortragaz.ch<br />
ZURICH AIRPORT: 67 miles<br />
JOALI BEING, MALDIVES<br />
Located on the 24-acre island of Muravandhoo<br />
in the northern fringes of the Raa Atoll, the<br />
Maldives’s first legit wellness resort offers fivenight<br />
to three-week immersions around themes<br />
such as weight rebalance and energy. A series of<br />
diagnostics inform custom itineraries that might<br />
include herbology workshops, movement classes,<br />
massages, and sound bathing sessions. There’s<br />
plenty of downtime to soak in the sea views from<br />
your overwater bungalow. joali.com<br />
MALÉ AIRPORT, then seaplane transfer<br />
LANSERHOF TEGERNSEE, GERMANY<br />
The philosophy at this super stylish, 70-room<br />
health resort in the Bavarian Alps is “restart your<br />
life.” Programs around psyche and emotions aim<br />
to help people overcome self-doubt, anxiety, and<br />
burnout. Hikes and bike rides on the surrounding<br />
forest trails melt away stress, while one-onone<br />
sessions with psychotherapists and mental<br />
coaches teach self-management skills. A sister<br />
property will open on the north German island of<br />
Sylt later this year.<br />
lanserhof.com<br />
MUNICH AIRPORT: 55 miles<br />
CANYON RANCH LENOX,<br />
MASSACH<strong>US</strong>ETTS, U.S.<br />
Fresh off a massive remodel, this wellness<br />
institution in the bucolic Berkshires recently<br />
introduced custom Pathways programming that<br />
tackles everything from reconnecting with joy to<br />
lifestyle resets. The latter chart a new course<br />
to wellbeing under the guidance of a licensed<br />
therapist and spiritual wellness provider. You’ll go<br />
home with a customized exercise program, nutrition<br />
game plan, and behavioral therapy techniques.<br />
canyonranch.com<br />
ALBANY AIRPORT: 51 miles<br />
ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA, MEXICO<br />
Hidden away on its own private island among the<br />
resort’s freshwater lagoon, Sense Spa hosts habitchanging<br />
retreats like the three-day Journey to<br />
Resilience. Days start with stretching and lectures<br />
on aligning intentions and end with vibrational<br />
therapies that ensure a deep sleep. Ayurveda<br />
aromatherapy massages and prana rituals will<br />
calm the nervous system. Indulging in a tequila<br />
and mezcal tasting isn’t frowned upon, and there’s<br />
abundant free time to enjoy the championship golf<br />
course and beach. rosewoodhotels.com<br />
CANCUN AIRPORT: 28 miles<br />
LONDOLOZI, SABI SANDS GAME<br />
RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA<br />
A safari lodge may seem an unlikely place for a<br />
wellness reboot, but Londolozi goes deeper than<br />
your typical game drive and sundowner itinerary.<br />
The family-run, Relais & Châteaux lodge is a<br />
pioneer in wellness safaris that tap into the healing<br />
powers of nature. Five-day retreats run by master<br />
life coach and Londolozi co-owner Boyd Varty<br />
deliver exceptional wildlife sightings (hippo, rhino,<br />
lions) as well as skills to teach you how to use your<br />
body’s compass to navigate the uncertainties of<br />
life. londolozi.com<br />
SKUKUZA AIRPORT: 29 miles<br />
GWINGANNA LIFESTYLE RETREAT,<br />
QUEENSLAND, A<strong>US</strong>TRALIA<br />
Set high on a plateau on 500 acres of the forested<br />
Tallebudgera Valley, this celebrated eco-spa even<br />
has three dedicated meditation suites designed<br />
for more mindful living. Three-night Condition<br />
your Calm retreats are led by Dr. Libby Weaver,<br />
a nutritional biochemist and one of the resort’s<br />
original founders. You’ll learn how stress affects<br />
our hormones, plus strategies for avoiding adrenal<br />
fatigue. The Crystal Steam Room at the spa is the<br />
ultimate way to let go of any current anxieties.<br />
gwinganna.com<br />
GOLD COAST AIRPORT: 12 miles<br />
SENSEI PORCUPINE CREEK,<br />
RANCHO MIRAGE, CALIFORNIA<br />
Tech billionaire Larry Ellison’s second Sensei<br />
retreat, a collaboration with renowned cancer<br />
researcher Dr. David Agus, opens this November<br />
on his 230-acre estate in the Coachella Valley.<br />
Optimal Wellbeing packages require a minimum<br />
five-night commitment. Pre-arrival, guests receive<br />
a Whoop 4.0 strap to track their fitness, sleep,<br />
and recovery. Sensei’s team of nutritionists,<br />
mindfulness coaches, and exercise physiologists<br />
analyze your data to create a program of thermal<br />
body mapping, yoga, strength training, and healthy<br />
meals created by Nobu Matsuhisa designed to<br />
achieve your wellbeing goals. sensei.com<br />
PALM SPRINGS AIRPORT: 10 miles<br />
ROWS FROM LEFT: JORMA MUELLER, © JOALI, © GWINGANNA, NICOLE LOEB, © CHRISTOPH INGENHOVEN, © ROSEWOOD MAYAKOBA, TANVEER BADAL, AMANDA RITCHIE<br />
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REMARKABLE RETREATS:<br />
Clockwise, from top left: Grand Resort Bad Ragaz; Joali Being; Gwinganna Lifestyle Retreat; Canyon Ranch Lenox; Londolozi, Sabi Sands Game Reserve; Sensei Porcupine<br />
Creek; Rosewood Mayakoba; Lanserhof Sylt; the plunge pool at Londolozi<br />
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ON LOCATION<br />
ISLE OF<br />
WONDER<br />
Long treasured by royals and A-listers, the Greek island<br />
of Corfu is back in the spotlight, pairing superlative villas<br />
and hotels with deliciously fresh cuisine and endless<br />
natural splendor. // By Alexander Lobrano<br />
VANGELIS PATERAKIS<br />
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GREEN PARADISE<br />
View across the tree-lined<br />
hills from the pool at Angsana,<br />
south of Corfu Town.<br />
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SECLUDED MAJESTY<br />
The newly unveiled Villa Gaia in Nissaki,<br />
left; alfresco dining at Avli, below;<br />
whitewashed splendor of Villa Apasa,<br />
facing page.<br />
© VILLA COLLECTIVE<br />
YOU MIGHT CALL IT the Empress Sisi factor, because ever since<br />
the Austrian Empress Elisabeth fell in love with Corfu and built<br />
the Villa Achilleion, her summer house, here in 1890, the island<br />
has appealed to people with the most discerning tastes. This has<br />
included writers like Goethe, Oscar Wilde, Lawrence Durrell, and<br />
Henry Miller as well as other aristocrats, notably Germany’s Kaiser<br />
Wilhelm II and the Greek royal family, which is why Britain’s late<br />
Prince Philip was born at Mon Repos, their summer estate. While<br />
you don’t need a title to fall in love with the northernmost of the<br />
Ionian islands, which form a green necklace off the western coast<br />
of the Greek mainland, Corfu might still become your muse. As<br />
Gerald Durrell, the naturalist, put it, “Gradually the magic of the<br />
island settled over us as gently and clingingly as pollen.”<br />
Corfu pairs a verdant beauty, created by its vast olive groves<br />
occasionally dramatically dotted by cypress trees, with a<br />
cosmopolitan personality, which comes from having been part of<br />
the Venetian Republic for around 400 years, and then variously<br />
ruled by France and England before becoming part of Greece in<br />
1864. The long narrow island also ticks all the boxes as the perfect<br />
Mediterranean holiday destination, with stunning beaches, great<br />
food and wine, a lively and historic main town, and every activity<br />
you might want from boating to hiking, diving, horseback riding,<br />
and golf—very rare for a Greek island—at the Corfu Golf Club<br />
(corfugolfclub.com). Best of all, perhaps, is the island’s laidback<br />
but sophisticated atmosphere.<br />
COSTAS ECONOMOU<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
The best way to enjoy Corfu is to stay in one of the many magnificent<br />
luxury rental villas that are scattered across the island, with the<br />
most preferred area being the northeast coast around Kassiopi,<br />
where the Rothschilds, among other swells, have a villa.<br />
Villa Collective (villacollective.com) has a stunning catalogue of<br />
Corfu residences, including the new-this-year Villa Gaia, in Nissaki.<br />
It sleeps eight across four bedrooms and comes with sea views, a<br />
40-foot swimming pool and direct access to the sea. Just below the<br />
house, nestled among the olive trees at sea level is a dining terrace,<br />
with its own barbecue area and beach bar.<br />
Another one of its signature properties is the stunningly luxurious<br />
Villa Apasa, an ultra-modern complex built into the cliffside in<br />
Nissaki. It comes with six bedrooms, sitting room with grand piano,<br />
tiered infinity pool, and a glassed-in outdoor elevator to the sea<br />
and a private sunbathing terrace. It is fully staffed, too, including<br />
a private chef.<br />
The Thinking Traveller’s new villa for <strong>2022</strong> (thethinkingtraveller.<br />
com) is Barbanichos, a beautifully restored old Corfiot country<br />
estate with a private pool with sea views and four bedrooms.<br />
This secluded, pretty property in a rural setting is ideal for anyone<br />
who wants to channel their inner Durrell, or have an authentic<br />
intemporal experience of the island, albeit with all creature<br />
comforts. Sleeps eight.<br />
Another superb address that’s far from the madding crowds is<br />
The Rou Estate (rouestate.com), a private spread in northeastern<br />
Corfu with 16 houses and outbuildings and spectacular panoramic<br />
views of the sea and neighboring Albania that were built over two<br />
centuries ago. A British architect and his Dutch wife bought the<br />
property in 2005 and have assiduously renovated the old houses<br />
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HENRY WOIDE<br />
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ON LOCATION<br />
and buildings with an eye for authenticity, good taste, and low-key<br />
luxury. Plumbago, which has superb views, five bedrooms and an<br />
infinity pool, is a standout among the rental properties here.<br />
For those who prefer hotels, Corfu’s rather sedate scene got a<br />
welcome jolt of younger energy when the new 159-room Angsana<br />
(angsana.com) opened on a pretty private beach overlooking<br />
Benitses Bay just south of Corfu Town last year, along with 37<br />
luxury villa homes. One of the Singapore-based Banyan Tree hotel<br />
group’s brands, it is the first location in Europe, and its Asian<br />
DNA is reflected by Zen room decors in schemes of taupe and<br />
cream. It has both an indoor—the hotel’s open year-round—and<br />
outdoor pool, a spa with 11 treatment rooms, with an extensive<br />
treatment menu, and a yoga deck. Bathrooms are paneled in white<br />
marble and some have egg-shaped soaking tubs. Four restaurants,<br />
including one by local star Ettore Botrini, and an Asian-fusion table,<br />
mean you can eat brilliantly without going out, and the rooftop bar<br />
is blissful on warm summer nights.<br />
Located in southern Corfu, the 113-key Domes Miramare, a<br />
Luxury Collection Resort (domesmiramare.com) overlooks its<br />
own private beach in Moraitika. The charismatic yet unpretentious<br />
property was once owned by the Onassis family and was popular<br />
with celebrities in the 1960s and 70s. Now it attracts smart,<br />
stylish big-city couples—it is adults-only—who want some<br />
serious downtime in a beautiful, cosseting place. Rooms are<br />
pristine, minimalist, and mostly all white, and the best are the<br />
seaview rooms or waterfront pavilions, where you can stretch out<br />
on chaises longues and destress in your private hot tub or pool. In<br />
addition to the excellent Makris restaurant, which serves a variety<br />
of Greek, Corfiot, and Mediterranean dishes, the hotel has a firstrate<br />
sushi-and-cocktail bar and a splendid pool bar. The hotel<br />
also has a small spa and organizes a variety of exclusive activities<br />
and day trips, including a visit to Corfu’s best organic farm and<br />
restaurant and excursions on the hotel’s own boat, assuming, of<br />
course, that you’ll be able to tear yourself away from your sun<br />
lounger and views of the sparkling aquamarine Ionian Sea.<br />
ISLAND BEAUTY<br />
Clockwise from top left: the stylish<br />
interior of Villa Gaia; Paleokastritsa<br />
Monastery, perched on high; a pool at<br />
Domes Miramare, A Luxury Collection<br />
Resort; aerial view of Ipapanti Church<br />
in Corfu’s Gouvia region.<br />
WHERE TO EAT<br />
Corfu is a food-lover’s paradise, and the Corfiot kitchen reflects the<br />
island’s strategic location at the entrance to the Adriatic Sea and<br />
also the culinary traditions of the island’s many rulers, including<br />
the Byzantine Empire, the Venetian Republic, and even France<br />
and Britain. Two dishes to look out for are “stufato,” a rich Ionian<br />
stew with Italian origins, and pasta dishes such as “pastitsio”—a<br />
macaroni, ragú, and béchamel dish. Corfiot wines improve<br />
constantly, too, and Theotoky (theotoky.com) is one producer to<br />
look out for, because its organic wines are excellent, the reason<br />
why the renowned wine expert and bon vivant James Bond asks<br />
for a glass of Theotoky aspro in “For Your Eyes Only.”<br />
Corfu Town is the island’s restaurant capital with many excellent<br />
eateries, including The Venetian Well (venetianwell.gr), which is<br />
located on Kremasti Square next to the well from which it takes its<br />
name and serves ambitious and well-executed contemporary Greek<br />
cooking, including dishes like scorpion-fish bourdeto with shrimpstuffed<br />
zucchini-blossom tempura.<br />
Seafood lovers should make a beeline for Fishalida<br />
(fishalidacorfu.gr), a beautifully decorated fish house next to<br />
the fish market in Corfu’s old town, for good-quality reasonably<br />
priced dishes, including barbecued prawns and smoked swordfish<br />
carpaccio with orange vinaigrette and kumquat, while Marina’s<br />
Tavern (fb.com/marinastavern) in the old Jewish quarter of Corfu<br />
Town is the ideal place to have a late lunch, which is what the<br />
locals do. Settle into the simple dining room here, and order<br />
delicious meze like taramasalata with marinated anchovies along<br />
with nourishing pies from owner Marina’s native Epirus region, and<br />
braised lamb with artichokes.<br />
Just a short stroll from the old town of Corfu, Avli (avlicorfu.<br />
com) is a local favorite for its seaside setting and delicious dishes<br />
such as “bouyiourdi” (baked feta with spicy peppers) and pork fillet<br />
with kumquat and cream milk.<br />
If you’re exploring the lush green interior of the island and want a<br />
good lunch, head for Taverna Elisabeth (fb.com/tavernaelisabeth)<br />
Corfu is a food-lover’s paradise, and<br />
and the Corfiot kitchen reflects the<br />
island’s strategic location.<br />
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © VILLA COLLECTIVE, EUGENE GURKOV / ALAMY, © DOMES MIRAMARE, ISTOCK<br />
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ON LOCATION<br />
in the little village of Doukades. This simple, friendly taverna serves<br />
up authentic home-style Corfiot country cooking, including dishes<br />
like “pastitsada” (a spicy meat-tomato pasta dish). The best tables<br />
overlook the village square. And for a sweet timeout, stop at Dolce<br />
(corfudolce.com) in the hilltop village of Lakones. It serves what<br />
many consider to be the island’s best ice cream on an open-air<br />
terrace with great views over the Bay of Paleokastritsa.<br />
Seaside dining on freshly landed fish and seafood is one of<br />
the great pleasures of any visit to Corfu. In Benitses, Klimataria<br />
(klimataria-restaurant.gr) is a matchbook 11-table restaurant<br />
locally regarded as one of Corfu’s top fish tavernas. Don’t miss the<br />
superb “xtapodi ksidato” (thin-sliced octopus in vinegar) or “psari<br />
bianco” (fish in white sauce stew). Reservations essential.<br />
In stylish Agni on Corfu’s northeastern coast, Taverna Agni<br />
(tavernaagni.com) serves delicious shrimp saganaki and a catchof-the-day<br />
menu complemented by dishes made with organically<br />
grown vegetables. Family owned and run since 1972, it’s accessible<br />
by water taxi from Corfu Town from May to October.<br />
Corfu doesn’t really do see-and-be-seen restaurants like Saint-<br />
Tropez or Mykonos, but Toula’s (toulasagni.com), also in Agni, is<br />
a chic seaside taverna that pulls the yachting crowd, along with<br />
visiting celebrities and London hipsters. Expect delicious fish<br />
dishes, the freshness of which is reflected by their hefty prices.<br />
In the seaside town of Dassia, Etrusco (etrusco.gr) is perhaps<br />
Corfu’s most famous restaurant, and the one that all of the<br />
yacht owners want to eat at when they visit the island. Corfiot-<br />
Italian chef Ettore Botrini grew up on the island but has worked<br />
in France and Spain, including a stint with Michelin three-star<br />
chef Martin Berasategui. His brilliant and intelligently inventive<br />
locavore cooking, including dishes like swordfish carpaccio with<br />
“neratzosalata” (orange salad) and salicornia, and roast lamb with<br />
couscous, makes this a destination-dining address, so advance<br />
booking is imperative.<br />
WHERE TO DRINK AND MEET UP<br />
Meeting up for a coffee or a cocktail is a Corfiot reflex that reflects<br />
the relaxed sociability of life on the island. Corfu Town offers a<br />
variety of delightful settings in which to pause and watch the world<br />
go by. Cafe Kohlias (fb.com/cafekohlias) in the elegant Frenchbuilt<br />
Liston arcade, which recalls the similar establishment along<br />
the Rue de Rivoli in Paris, is an ideal perch for people-watching in<br />
Spianada Square over a well-made iced espresso or a tangerine<br />
cocktail. Also on Spianada Square, the sixth-floor rooftop bar of<br />
the Cavalieri Hotel (open from June to October, cavalierihotel.gr)<br />
offers gorgeous views of the square, the Ionian Sea, and the Old<br />
Fortress, and they pour a good selection of wines by the glass. Cafe<br />
Bristol (fb.com/bristolcafecorfu) in Corfu Town attracts a stylish<br />
young crowd of locals, expats, and visitors and sometimes has live<br />
music. Try the signature Monkey & the Beans cocktail, which is an<br />
espresso Martini with Tia Maria. For glamorous sundowners, head<br />
for the popular La Grotta Bar (lagrottabar.com), which overlooks a<br />
beautiful cove, or maybe Nagual (fb.com/nagualbeachbarcorfu), a<br />
lively bar on the edge of sandy Kontogialos Beach, which aces any<br />
traditional cocktail and also mixes some really inventive new ones.<br />
WHAT TO SEE AND DO<br />
It’s a pleasure to wander the old town of Corfu, its hive-like jumble<br />
of architectural styles so eloquent in explaining its history, from<br />
narrow alleys to elegant Venetian palazzos, an English cricket<br />
green, and the très Parisian Liston arcade. Be sure to visit the<br />
Church of Saint Spyridon (agios.imcorfu.gr) to pay your respects<br />
to Corfu’s patron saint, and don’t miss one of the best collections<br />
of Asian art in Europe at the Corfu Museum of Asian Art (matk.<br />
ALAMY<br />
BLUE HEAVEN<br />
Clockwise from above: La Grotta<br />
Bar ensconced in a beautiful cove;<br />
ceramics works in Myrto Zirini’s<br />
workshop; Pontikonisi isle, just off<br />
Corfu’s east coast.<br />
gr), which was installed in the Palace of St. Michael and St. George<br />
after Gregorios Manos, a former Greek ambassador to Austria,<br />
donated his collection of Sino-Japanese art to the nation in 1928,<br />
and has sinced been enhanced by further donations from around<br />
the continent. Three miles south of Corfu Town in Gastouri, the<br />
elegant white neo-classical Achilleion (achillion-corfu.gr), built as<br />
a summer home for Empress Elisabeth of Austria, at the suggestion<br />
of the Austrian consul Alexander von Warsberg, is currently closed<br />
for renovations, but its reopening is expected this autumn.<br />
From the Achilleion, it’s a 17-mile drive north to the beautiful<br />
bay at Paleokastritsa, an ideal place for a swim before or after<br />
a visit to the Paleokastritsa Monastery, a tranquil pastel-colored<br />
13th-century building on a hillside a 15-minute walk uphill from<br />
the beach. Come for the spectacular views and friendly monks,<br />
who will show you their garden. There’s also a small museum with<br />
some very beautiful ancient icons, and quite oddly, a complete<br />
whale skeleton. Finally, a swim in the Canal d’Amour, a striking<br />
cove carved by erosion into the golden sandstone of Sidari Beach<br />
on northwestern Corfu is an experience of the island at its primal<br />
best. In a similar vein, even if you can only manage a small part<br />
of it, the well-marked 135-mile Corfu Trail (thecorfutrail.com) is a<br />
brilliant way of discovering this stunningly beautiful island.<br />
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WHERE TO SHOP<br />
The most obvious thing to bring home from a trip to Corfu is<br />
a bottle of olive oil or two, maybe from the organic Bioporos<br />
(bioporos.gr) farm in southwestern Corfu, but the island has<br />
other treasures. Kumquats were introduced to Corfu by Venetian<br />
merchants trading with China, and the trees flourished here,<br />
with their fruit becoming a part of the local diet. One of the<br />
best kumquat products is the cream liqueur made from the<br />
fruit by the Lazaris Distillery & Artisan Sweets Brand-Store<br />
(lazarisartisan.com). A perfect tipple on the rocks on a hot<br />
summer night, it’s also delicious poured over ice cream.<br />
It’s likely that you’ll come across the work of ceramicist<br />
Myrto Zirini (myrtozirini.gr) more than once during any visit<br />
to Corfu, since her minimalist-style ceramics with a decidedly<br />
Mediterranean aesthetic are simply beautiful and look as<br />
good in a Corsican villa as they do in a Knightsbridge flat<br />
or Manhattan penthouse. You can watch her at work in her<br />
waterfront workshop in Corfu Town’s Mouragia neighborhood.<br />
Take home some Corfu chic by stopping by Leather Trinkets<br />
(leathertrinkets.com), where jewelry maker Marie Vaggalati<br />
makes beautiful handmade pieces inspired by Greek design<br />
tradition, Byzantine art, and book binding.<br />
IOANNIS KAPODISTRIAS AIRPORT TO CORFU TOWN: 2 miles<br />
ISTOCK<br />
COURTESY MYRTO ZIRINI<br />
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ON THE PULSE<br />
TIME<br />
TO RALLY<br />
The latest sporty timepieces for men<br />
and women court a certain sense of style.<br />
Photography by Xavier Young // Production by Elisa Vallata<br />
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Above, from top:<br />
Facing page, from top:<br />
CARL F. BUCHERER<br />
Manero Flyback with<br />
43 mm stainless-steel<br />
case; blue dial; selfwinding<br />
chronograph<br />
movement with flyback<br />
function; date at<br />
6 o’clock; stainlesssteel<br />
strap.<br />
HERMÈS<br />
H08 with 39 x 39 mm cushionshaped,<br />
satin-brushed<br />
titanium case with matt-black<br />
DLC coating; sunburst<br />
satin-brushed titanium bezel;<br />
black nickel-coated dial;<br />
self-winding movement; orange<br />
rubber strap.<br />
AUDEMARS PIGUET<br />
Royal Oak “Jumbo”<br />
Extra-Thin, with 39 mm<br />
platinum case; smokedgreen<br />
dial with sunburst<br />
base; white-gold hourmarkers<br />
and hands with<br />
luminescent coating;<br />
platinum bracelet.<br />
PATEK PHILIPPE<br />
Ref. 5905, with 42 mm steel<br />
case; sapphire crystal caseback;<br />
sunburst olive-green<br />
dial; self-winding flyback<br />
chronograph movement with<br />
annual calendar; steel<br />
bracelet with polished and<br />
satin finishes.<br />
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ON THE PULSE<br />
Above, from top:<br />
ULYSSE NARDIN<br />
Diver X Skeleton with 44 mm blue<br />
PVD and blue carbonium case;<br />
concave inverted unidirectional<br />
rotating bezel; hands coated with<br />
Super-LumiNova; self-winding<br />
skeleton movement; water-resistant<br />
to 200m; blue rubber strap. Limited<br />
to 175 pieces.<br />
CHOPARD<br />
Alpine Eagle XL Chrono with<br />
44 mm Lucent Steel A223 case;<br />
sapphire crystal case-back; brass<br />
dial stamped with an Aletsch blue<br />
sunburst pattern; self-winding<br />
movement with flyback and<br />
stop-seconds function; Lucent<br />
Steel A223 bracelet.<br />
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Clockwise, from top:<br />
ZENITH<br />
Defy 21 Chroma with 44 mm mattwhite<br />
ceramic case; rainbow-colored<br />
self-winding 1/100th of a second<br />
chronograph movement; rhodiumplated<br />
hour-markers coated with<br />
rainbow varnish; white rubber strap<br />
with Cordura effect and<br />
rainbow stitching.<br />
GERALD CHARLES<br />
GC Sport with 39 x 41.7 mm polished<br />
grade 5 titanium ultra-thin case;<br />
screw down left-hand side crown<br />
with embossed logo; royal blue<br />
sunburst dial; hands and indexes<br />
filled with Super-LumiNova; selfwinding,<br />
shock-resistant movement;<br />
royal blue rubber strap.<br />
HUBLOT<br />
Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic<br />
with 42 mm satin-finished and<br />
polished blue ceramic case; matt<br />
blue skeleton dial; self-winding<br />
chronograph flyback movement;<br />
date at 3 o’clock; water-resistant<br />
to 100m; satin-finished and<br />
polished blue ceramic bracelet.<br />
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GOURMET GUIDE<br />
THE LURE<br />
OF<br />
LISBON<br />
HAYLEY KELSING; FACING PAGE: FABIANA KOCUBEY<br />
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Fresh ingredients, bold ideas, and captivating design:<br />
the Portuguese capital’s culinary scene has never<br />
been tastier. // By Ivan Carvalho<br />
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GOURMET GUIDE<br />
FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA<br />
TIAGO MAYA<br />
LISBON LIGHTS<br />
Clockwise from top left: the view from<br />
Bahr; a cocktail from Monkey Mash;<br />
Tiago Penão of Kappo; facing page:<br />
Praia no Parque.<br />
Previous pages: Inside Praia no Parque;<br />
Alentejo cuisine at Taberna do Calhau.<br />
© KAPPO<br />
PERHAPS NOT SINCE Portugal’s famed Age of<br />
Discovery has the country’s capital seen such an<br />
upsurge in activity as the past decade, as Lisbon’s<br />
once relatively sleepy hospitality scene has become<br />
supercharged with an explosion of eateries and<br />
bars spearheaded by a new generation of chefs,<br />
restaurateurs, and sommeliers. The tourism boom<br />
of recent years, only temporarily halted due to the<br />
pandemic, has delivered a fresh crop of ideas into<br />
the kitchen to challenge taste buds.<br />
More evidence of this surge can be seen in the<br />
recent Phaidon release “Portugal, The Cookbook,”<br />
an appetizing tome of over 550 recipes from<br />
chef Leandro Carreira and food storyteller Miguel<br />
Andrade that details the rich gastronomic history<br />
of the Iberian nation and its many influences<br />
dating back centuries as seafarers explored the<br />
globe and brought back new ingredients.<br />
Today, travelers to Lisbon have a front-row seat<br />
to a new age of experimentation in the dining room.<br />
WHERE TO DINE<br />
Signs of Lisbon’s meteoric rise on the<br />
gastronomic front are perhaps best encapsulated<br />
in a dining experience at Fifty Seconds<br />
(fiftysecondsexperience.com), a project from<br />
Basque chef Martín Berasategui. Perched in the<br />
Vasco da Gama Tower 120 meters above sea<br />
level, the plush 35-seat space provides expansive<br />
views of the Tagus River. Overseeing duties at the<br />
one-star Michelin establishment is chef Filipe<br />
Carvalho, whose exquisite lobster with rice in a<br />
champagne emulsion has won many plaudits<br />
and sees regular clients popping in on a near<br />
weekly basis to savor it.<br />
Carvalho also keeps busy as a consultant,<br />
as summer <strong>2022</strong> sees him assisting the<br />
transformation of classic seafood eatery Nunes<br />
Real Marisqueira (nunesmarisqueira.pt), which<br />
is set for an Art Deco layout at a new address<br />
in the Belém district. Nunes wins over even the<br />
THE MAN ABOUT TOWN<br />
Miguel Abalroado<br />
HOW HAS LISBON’S DINING SCENE<br />
CHANGED IN THE PAST DECADE?<br />
Before, it was impossible to find great local<br />
produce. Today, the best restaurants have<br />
their local suppliers. Chefs are creating<br />
original concepts without the need to copy<br />
what comes from abroad.<br />
HOW DOES LISBON COMPARE<br />
AGAINST OTHER EUROPEAN<br />
CAPITALS WHEN EATING OUT? We<br />
are a cosmopolitan, multicultural city and<br />
are very welcoming. Like London, here you<br />
find great Chinese, Japanese and Indian/<br />
Goan cuisine. Fine dining has been growing<br />
steadily with places like Belcanto, Epur, and<br />
Fifty Seconds.<br />
WHERE HAVE YOU ENJOYED EATING<br />
RECENTLY? Boi-Cavalo blends creative<br />
food with the best playlist in town. O Velho<br />
Eurico embodies the essence of the new<br />
“tasca” (the casual, informal Portuguese<br />
eatery) with an environment where food<br />
meets a party atmosphere.<br />
A devoted gourmand, Abalroado runs Lemon<br />
Zest, a consulting agency working with top<br />
chefs and restaurants. lemonzest.pt<br />
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THE RESTAURATEUR<br />
Nuno Santana<br />
WHAT’S THE CONCEPT BEHIND<br />
PRAIA NO PARQUE? It’s in one of the<br />
city’s most beautiful venues, right in the<br />
heart of Eduardo VII Park. At night, it is all<br />
about delicious food, wines, and cocktails,<br />
and an eclectic mix of DJ beats. During<br />
the day, you can have a relaxing lunch or<br />
late-afternoon aperitif. At dusk, it’s perfect<br />
to dine on the velvet benches integrated<br />
into the original 1950s porticoes.<br />
HOW HAS THE LOCAL RESTAURANT<br />
B<strong>US</strong>INESS CHANGED RECENTLY? In<br />
the past ten years, Lisbon has evolved<br />
into a cosmopolitan hub. Chefs and top<br />
managers fell in love with the city. I believe<br />
there will be significant growth again in<br />
business for the major hospitality groups.<br />
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE DISH<br />
THESE DAYS? I like timeless,<br />
uncomplicated cuisine. I order the<br />
tournedos steak rare with a well-seasoned<br />
green salad on the side.<br />
Santana is co-founder of restaurant group<br />
Grupo Praia. apraia.pt<br />
HAYLEY KELSING
FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA<br />
GOURMET GUIDE<br />
CITY HIGHLIGHTS<br />
Clockwise from above: Nuno Mendes’s<br />
Bahr; escabeche of quail and pickled<br />
blackberries from that restaurant;<br />
Leopoldo Garcia Calhau in his<br />
epnoymous tavern; Belcanto, José<br />
Avillez’s prized eatery.<br />
most committed carnivores with superb fresh<br />
specimens of langoustine, spider crab, and<br />
“percebes” (gooseneck barnacles).<br />
For a more luxe experience there is JNcQuoi<br />
Asia (jncquoi.com), which is part of the JNcQuoi<br />
hospitality group from Paula Amorim, whose<br />
family is the world’s leading producer of cork<br />
stoppers. Her Eastern-influenced establishment<br />
offers all-day dining on Avenida da Liberdade<br />
in lush surroundings. There are sushi starters—<br />
tuna with katsuobushi, lemon, and truffle oil—<br />
dumplings, curries, and a yummy Hainanese<br />
chicken with ginger and perfumed rice.<br />
Outside the city, in nearby Cascais, Tiago Penão<br />
at Kappo (kappo.pt) keeps fans of Nippon cooking<br />
content with his work behind the counter. Pull up<br />
for an omakase lunch before heading to the beach.<br />
Back in Lisbon, venture up the hill to Chiado<br />
and into one of the crown jewels of Portuguese<br />
fine dining, Belcanto (belcanto.pt) by chef José<br />
Avillez. Owner of two Michelin stars, the pioneering<br />
Avillez has reworked his menu of late—sample the<br />
scarlet shrimp curry, apple, and hibiscus, or hake<br />
with coriander sauce. Book his Chef’s Table for a<br />
ringside view of the goings-on in the kitchen.<br />
At nearby Bairro Alto Hotel, longtime London<br />
resident Nuno Mendes has set up Bahr (bahr.<br />
pt) on the fifth floor. Guests should start at the<br />
terrace bar—sip a crisp Alvarinho from winery<br />
Cortinha Velha and soak up the Lisbon skyline.<br />
Inside, the wood-themed décor with geometric<br />
parquet and open kitchen preps one for fun<br />
starter snacks (anyone for the pica-pau raw beef<br />
taco with Azorean pineapple?). Among the main<br />
THE CHEF<br />
Marlene Vieira<br />
WHAT IS THE CONCEPT BEHIND<br />
YOUR NEW RESTAURANT, MARLENE?<br />
It’s a summary of my personal history, from<br />
my early training in classical French cooking<br />
to relying on quality, seasonal ingredients<br />
and Portuguese traditions, including<br />
references to typical foods we eat at Sunday<br />
lunches when families come together.<br />
WHAT IS A FAVORITE DISH YOU ARE<br />
NOW SERVING? One I like a lot is filhós<br />
de berbigão à Bulhão Pato, a kind of cockle<br />
doughnut inspired by filhós, fried-dough<br />
desserts normally consumed at Christmas,<br />
and Bulhão Pato sauce, made with<br />
cilantro, olive oil, and garlic and named<br />
after a 19th-century Portuguese poet.<br />
YOUR DESSERT COOKBOOK “OS<br />
DOCES DA CHEF MARLENE” OFFERS<br />
80 RECIPES. A FAVORITE? Pudim<br />
Abade de Priscos, a very rich crème<br />
caramel pudding that includes port wine<br />
and lard among its ingredients.<br />
Besides her new gourmet establishment,<br />
Marlene, Vieira runs the seafood-focused<br />
Zunzum gastrobar and a stand in Lisbon’s<br />
Time Out Market. marlenevieira.pt<br />
courses are wild turbot in a green kale sauce with<br />
chorizo and the perennial salted codfish known<br />
throughout Portugal—here it’s prepared with<br />
white corn porridge and razor clams.<br />
Across the street is the cozy and informal<br />
Taberna da Rua das Flores (tberna.com) with its<br />
traditional azulejo-tile flooring. Managed by André<br />
Magalhães, the food and wine writer-turned-chef,<br />
the offer veers towards “petiscos” (Portuguesestyle<br />
tapas): mackerel tartare, gazpacho, local<br />
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© BAHR<br />
AXELLE MANFRINI<br />
TOP TIPPLES<br />
GAMBRIN<strong>US</strong><br />
Decidedly old school in its décor, this<br />
wood-paneled restaurant dating from the<br />
1930s in the heart of Baixa in downtown<br />
Lisbon hosts a cozy bar with a dozen<br />
leather seats at the counter and is steeped<br />
in tradition. Nibble on meat croquettes,<br />
slices of presunto and buttered toast while<br />
sipping on a draft beer or a Porto Tónico, a<br />
tried-and-trusted cocktail made with white<br />
port. gambrinuslisboa.com<br />
RED FROG<br />
Co-owner and barman Paulo Gomes has<br />
created a sought-after speakeasy concept<br />
that, since opening in 2015, has stood easily<br />
above the competition. A select number of<br />
small bite-sized foods are on the menu but<br />
the real treat here is the drinks lineup. Enjoy<br />
an American Gangster, made with Bulleit<br />
bourbon and a single vintage madeira made<br />
with malvasia, or sample the collection of<br />
barrel-aged cocktails. Reservations required<br />
and chic attire recommended. redfrog.pt<br />
SENHOR UVA<br />
Run by Quebec natives Stéphanie Audet and<br />
Marc Davidson, this boutique wine bar does<br />
fabulous vegetarian nibbles to pair with<br />
its formidable list of vintages hailing from<br />
natural vintners. Located in the Estrela<br />
neighborhood, the establishment has a<br />
cosmopolitan wait staff ready to pour lowintervention<br />
juice from producers such as<br />
Aphros, a winery in Minho, and winemaker<br />
António Madeira, with his assortment of<br />
wines from the Dão appellation.<br />
senhoruva.com<br />
MONKEY MASH<br />
Upon entering, one is quickly caught up<br />
in the cool, tropical vibe at Monkey Mash<br />
thanks to its colorful interior marked by<br />
vibrant murals. The illustrated drinks<br />
menu is an eye-catcher and preps the<br />
palate for the serious sensory experience<br />
to come. Cocktails rely on exotic spirits<br />
so prepare for mixes sporting tequila or<br />
cachaça—have a sip of Two Different and<br />
its sugarcane spirit blended with coconut,<br />
celery, and dry madeira. monkeymash.pt<br />
© GRUPO JOSÉ AVILLEZ<br />
DAHLIA<br />
Close to the hustle and bustle of Cais do<br />
Sodré, Dahlia serves up a delectable menu<br />
of small bites such as seared shrimp with<br />
chili bisque and kimchi to accompany its<br />
eclectic assortment of by-the-glass wines.<br />
Sample sparkling rosé from Catalonia or an<br />
orange-style variety from COZs near Lisbon.<br />
The establishment offers an impressive<br />
vinyl collection on a hi-fi sound system<br />
fronted by McIntosh amps and Tannoy<br />
Lancaster speakers. dahlialisboa.com<br />
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GOURMET GUIDE<br />
THE VISIONARY<br />
João Rodrigues<br />
WHY DID YOU START PROJECTO<br />
MATÉRIA? It was born out of professional<br />
necessity. I was working at Feitoria and<br />
wanted diners to have an experience<br />
focused on Portugal. I was in need of a good<br />
network of local food suppliers. In the past,<br />
fine-dining places here often looked abroad<br />
for some ingredients. I created a database<br />
by searching out national producers.<br />
WHAT LOCAL INGREDIENTS DO<br />
YOU PRIZE THE MOST? Portugal has<br />
a privileged geography in front of the<br />
Atlantic. We have a rich collection of<br />
seafood that varies as you move from<br />
the coast out to deep water. Percebes,<br />
salmonetes, and corvina are some of the<br />
local varieties worth trying.<br />
WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE<br />
PORTUGUESE COMFORT FOOD?<br />
Cabidela, a dish made with poultry that<br />
is cooked using the animal’s blood and<br />
served with rice.<br />
Michelin-star chef Rodrigues is the<br />
founder of Projecto Matéria, a nonprofit<br />
that promotes national producers<br />
with good agricultural practices.<br />
projectomateria.pt<br />
R<strong>US</strong>TIC GLORY<br />
The old vines at<br />
Ramilo Wines.<br />
cheese platters, and sardines on toast. The same<br />
relaxed vibe is found at Taberna do Calhau (fb.<br />
com/leopoldogarciacalhau/) in Mouraria within<br />
a backdrop of family mementos, marble-top<br />
tables and bar-stool seating. Owner Leopoldo<br />
Garcia Calhau recreates an Alentejo tavern with<br />
inventive yet tradition-minded courses of roasted<br />
pork cheek and ceviche-style hake with lemon,<br />
olive oil, coriander, and egg.<br />
Also keeping things decidedly dressed down<br />
is Fogo (fogorestaurante.pt) from chef Alexandre<br />
Silva. Despite an all-black interior more suited for<br />
a dance club, diners are faced with an impressive<br />
open kitchen where suckling pig, lamb, and fish are<br />
done over open fires, grills or in traditional cast-iron<br />
pots—don’t overlook the tasty slow-fermented bread.<br />
For a more refined version of Silva’s philosophy,<br />
head to the Estrela neighborhood and his 22-seat<br />
Michelin-star Loco (loco.pt), a venue offering a<br />
17-course tasting menu—recent highlights include<br />
white shrimp with açorda but expect new entries as<br />
seasonal ingredients dictate the menu.<br />
Another talent of contemporary Portuguese<br />
cuisine who champions fresh, farm-to-table produce<br />
is chef João Sá at Sála (restaurantesala.pt). This<br />
soft-spoken maestro has built up a following of<br />
gourmands thanks to his innovative approach and<br />
beautiful presentation. Standout dishes range from<br />
his sublime octopus rice with toasted seaweed<br />
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and citrus gel to pink Algarve shrimp served with<br />
a sauce of moqueca, peanut, and coconut. For an<br />
extra treat, reserve the two seats at the counter to<br />
get a firsthand look at the food prep.<br />
One more bright light not far from Sála’s door is<br />
António Galapito, who leads a promising team at<br />
Prado (pradorestaurante.com). The high-ceiling<br />
space lets in natural light, giving foodies the<br />
chance to immortalize on Instagram the perfectly<br />
sized portions. Galapito’s phenomenal Azorean<br />
squid with potato and ham butter has the texture<br />
of pasta and seduces the taste buds. Paired with<br />
refreshing wines from biodynamic and natural<br />
winemakers, Prado’s offering provides further<br />
proof that the Portuguese capital is heading in<br />
the right direction foodwise.<br />
THE SOMMELIER<br />
Marc Pinto<br />
WHAT PORTUGUESE BUBBLY DO YOU<br />
RECOMMEND? Bairrada is obviously a<br />
great region to try. Recently, I have been<br />
pouring sparkling wines from the Távora-<br />
Varosa appellation, which uses traditionalmethod<br />
fermentation. It’s south of the<br />
Douro region, sees cooler nights, and<br />
produces sublime wines.<br />
WHAT IS EXCITING ON THE LOCAL<br />
WINE SCENE? Many people don’t know<br />
that we have vineyards right here in the<br />
Lisbon area. Villa Oeiras, run by the local<br />
municipality, makes outstanding fortified<br />
wines that are great for dessert pairings.<br />
WHERE DO YOU GO ON YOUR DAY<br />
OFF? In Lisbon, I like the wine list put<br />
together by Marc Davidson at Senhor Uva.<br />
The selections by the glass are always<br />
interesting, with the focus on natural<br />
wines, and the menu of vegetarian dishes<br />
is very well done.<br />
Pinto is head sommelier at the<br />
Michelin-starred Fifty Seconds in Lisbon.<br />
fiftysecondsexperience.com<br />
REGIONAL WINERIES<br />
© RAMILO WINES<br />
VALE DA CAPUCHA<br />
The family-run quinta of Pedro<br />
Marques is in Torres Vedras, close<br />
to the sea and only 45 minutes from<br />
Lisbon. In 2006, Marques swapped<br />
out higher yield red varieties to favor<br />
lower quantity but higher quality white<br />
grapes, including his delicious 100%<br />
Arinto wine as well as bottles featuring<br />
the gouveio and viosinho varieties.<br />
His 32 acres of vineyards sit on claylimestone<br />
soils and are influenced by a<br />
temperate Atlantic climate.<br />
valedacapucha.com<br />
QUINTA DO MONTE D’OIRO<br />
Named winery of the year in 2021 by<br />
Portugal’s leading wine publication,<br />
“Revista de Vinhos,” Monte d’Oiro has<br />
made great strides in recent years<br />
under the direction of the Bento dos<br />
Santos family. Situated in Alenquer on<br />
gentle slopes and subject to a more<br />
Mediterranean climate, the organic<br />
producer has had success making<br />
elegant wines from international<br />
varieties (syrah, viognier) as well as<br />
local varietals touriga nacional and<br />
tinta roriz. quintadomontedoiro.com<br />
RAMILO WINES<br />
The little-known Colares region is<br />
steeped in history. Located north of<br />
Sintra and next to the ocean, this is<br />
continental Europe’s westernmost<br />
appellation and its sandy soils<br />
are famed for having resisted the<br />
phylloxera plague—vines grow close<br />
to the ground right on the dunes. The<br />
Ramilo family has made great strides<br />
of late with their standout malvasia<br />
and a delicious rosé crafted from the<br />
signature local variety, the red ramisco<br />
grape. ramilowines.com<br />
ADEGA MÃE<br />
Anchored by a white modernist building<br />
positioned on the hillside and providing<br />
sweeping views of the vineyards,<br />
Adega Mãe is a perfect getaway<br />
from Lisbon. The winery’s 52-cover<br />
restaurant has sleek wooden tabletops<br />
where meals from brunch to dinner<br />
are served. Its scrumptious fare, from<br />
burrata with pesto to grilled fish and<br />
lamb chops, is elegantly dressed up on<br />
the plate and paired with house wines,<br />
including the estate’s popular Dory<br />
blends. adegamae.pt<br />
VILLA OEIRAS<br />
The tiny Carcavelos appellation right<br />
next to Lisbon may not have the name<br />
recognition of port and madeira, but<br />
its fortified wine offerings are worth<br />
a taste. The Marquis de Pombal was<br />
a great proponent of viticulture here<br />
and today the nearly extinct region has<br />
received support from the local city<br />
government. The Villa Oeiras winery<br />
produces a superb sweet wine from<br />
the galego dourado, ratinho, and arinto<br />
varieties. villaoeiras.com<br />
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TASTING NOTES<br />
One of the pioneers of Paso Robles viticulture,<br />
Eric Jensen continues to push his company,<br />
Booker wines, to new highs. // By Jim Clarke<br />
CALIFORNIA<br />
DREAMING<br />
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ALL IMAGES COURTESY BOOKER WINES<br />
TASTING NOTES<br />
PASO ROBLES, A HITHERTO RANCHING COMMUNITY known for its almond<br />
orchards and oak-studded chaparral-carpeted hillsides midway<br />
between San Francisco and Los Angeles, doesn’t lure visitors the<br />
way wine regions like Napa and Santa Barbara do. But it does have<br />
warm, sunny slopes and vine-friendly soils, as well as a community<br />
that works together. It’s those qualities that led Eric Jensen there.<br />
“My wife and I knew that Paso was where our heart was,”<br />
says Jensen. “We had toured everywhere, and we ended up<br />
getting married here.” So in 2001, having sold his concert festival<br />
promotion company, they purchased a 100-acre property and<br />
moved. “I became a farmer. For the first five years I was just<br />
working every day, learning how to drive a tractor and farm vines.”<br />
He named the ranch “Booker” after a pair of brothers who had<br />
owned the land for most of the 20th century; generous supporters<br />
of their neighbors, they donated all 1,200 acres of their land to<br />
charity when they passed away—a spirit Jensen has tried to honor.<br />
While grape growing was well established in Paso Robles by the<br />
turn of the millennium, few wineries were based there, and wine<br />
tourism was almost non-existent. “It was a horse town,” Jensen<br />
says, “but there was a small population gathering that were likeminded,<br />
and we just worked together and helped each other.”<br />
Jensen fell in with two winemakers who were also at the<br />
start of new projects, Justin Smith at Saxum Vineyards, and<br />
Stephan Asseo at L’Aventure. They encouraged him to move<br />
beyond grape growing into winemaking itself. His well-chosen site<br />
showed it was capable of greatness from its first vintage, 2005,<br />
earning big scores that “sent us into a different stratosphere.”<br />
Booker has built on that success, taking a place as one of<br />
the top wineries in Paso Robles and, for fans of grenache and<br />
syrah, in all of California. The area’s potential for those so-called<br />
Rhône varieties—grenache, syrah, as well as mourvèdre —had<br />
been part of what drew Jensen to Paso Robles in the first place.<br />
“I had only drunk cab and chard; I was just a typical<br />
American. But, boy, when I had my first really good grenache<br />
and my first syrah, I was just overwhelmed. I knew right away,<br />
these were the grapes I wanted to grow.” Today the ranch has<br />
60 acres of vineyards, almost all planted to Rhône varieties.<br />
Jensen has farmed those grapes organically for 15 years,<br />
and in 2021 the ranch became certified organic by California<br />
Certified Organic Farmers. The farm also operates on solar<br />
power, and Jensen is in the process of switching to all-electric<br />
vehicles. “This is how we live our life. We’re not cuckoo, but<br />
we’ve got a little hippy innocence.” That commitment to the land<br />
is matched by a commitment to the community, and a portion of<br />
every Booker sale goes to must! charities, which directs funding<br />
and support into high-need projects in the Paso Robles area.<br />
There is a personal aspect in much of Jensen’s work. My Favorite<br />
Neighbor, a cabernet-based collection that began as a homage<br />
to Stephan Asseo, now celebrates a handful of friends in the<br />
surrounding area. And Jensen’s Harvey & Harriet project extends a<br />
sense of community out to wine drinkers in general. Booker wines<br />
command a premium in keeping with their ratings and desirability,<br />
but the quality of wine Jensen sees at $30 and below bothers him.<br />
“I realized I needed to get something in the $30 range because<br />
in that range, it’s all this fake bulk juice—sweet wines that are<br />
just Twinkies, Lucky Charms, and Apple Jacks. And then the<br />
common consumer thinks that’s wine. I was just so appalled that<br />
that portion of society was being left behind in the wine business.”<br />
The resulting wine draws on organic grapes from his<br />
ranch and others all around San Luis Obispo County. At<br />
its core are cabernet sauvignon and syrah. “I didn’t want<br />
anything over-extracted or massive; I wanted a reddish or<br />
red and blue-fruited wine, not that overly black, heavy fruit.”<br />
Harvey & Harriet is named for Jensen’s parents. He grew up with<br />
eight siblings, crammed in a small house in San Dimas, California;<br />
money was tight. “My mom and dad really loved a good glass of<br />
wine, but they were picky. They rarely drank because they couldn’t<br />
afford good wines. The second I started the winery they became<br />
huge wine drinkers.” bookerwines.com; myfavoriteneighbor.com<br />
WINE COUNTRY<br />
The new visitor center and tasting area<br />
add a new dimension to Booker wines;<br />
previous page: Eric Jensen among his<br />
vines in Paso Robles.<br />
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“I had only drunk cab and chard;<br />
I was just a typical American.<br />
But, boy, when I had my first really good<br />
grenache and my first syrah,<br />
I was just overwhelmed.”<br />
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INSIDE VIEW<br />
WAY OUT WEST<br />
The latest renovation of San Diego’s premier<br />
repository of contemporary art promises to shine<br />
a light on the California city’s finest.<br />
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INSIDE VIEW<br />
PHOTOGRAPH OF HON PAINTED OVER BY NIKI DE SAINT PHALLE, PHOTOGRAPH BY KATRIN BAUMANN, 1979, COLLECTION NIKI CHARITABLE ART FOUNDATION, SANTEE; PREVIO<strong>US</strong> SPREAD: © JOHN VALADEZ, POOL PARTY, 1986<br />
ABOVE<br />
Niki de Saint Phalle’s<br />
“Overpainted Photo<br />
of Hon,” 1979.<br />
FACING PAGE<br />
John Baldessari’s “Terms Most<br />
Useful in Describing Creative<br />
Works of Art,” 1966-1968.<br />
PREVIO<strong>US</strong> PAGE<br />
“Pool Party”<br />
by John Valadez,<br />
1986.<br />
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COURTESY OF JOHN BALDESSARI<br />
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INSIDE VIEW<br />
LIGHTENING UP<br />
San Diego often plays second fiddle to Los Angles and the Bay Area, but the developments<br />
at The Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (MCASD) are aiming to change that,<br />
at least for art lovers. In April, after a four-year $105-million renovation, MCASD’s<br />
La Jolla HQ reopened, offering a new beacon for culture in the city. The seafront<br />
building, originally an Irving Gill-designed residence, built in 1916 for philanthropist<br />
Ellen Browning Scripps, has undergone several changes of identity since it became<br />
The Art Center in La Jolla in 1941, but this latest refurbishment and expansion by<br />
New York architecture firm Selldorf is the most dramatic improvement yet. The new<br />
iteration—which is complemented by a second location in Downtown San Diego—<br />
offers almost four times as much gallery space as previously available, including two<br />
light-filled galleries as well as a public park and seaside terraces that make the most of<br />
the museum’s spectacular Pacific Coast setting. Pride of place goes to the museum’s<br />
impressive collection, which includes work from influential artists such as Ruth Asawa,<br />
Lorna Simpson, Robert Irwin, Tschabalala Self, John Baldessari, and James Luna, which<br />
now has the room to be displayed in its full magnificence. Alongside the permanent<br />
pieces, curated temporary exhibitions will bring works from across the globe—the first<br />
of which is dedicated to the French-American sculptor, painter, and filmmaker Niki de<br />
Saint Phalle, who lived in San Diego for the latter part of her life. “Niki de Saint Phalle<br />
in the 1960s” (until 17 July) celebrates her work from a vital period of a career that<br />
embraced as many disciplines as it did causes—from feminism to climate change. The<br />
1960s were a particularly fertile period that included her Tirs, or “shooting paintings,”<br />
and the exuberant sculptures of women she called Nanas. The artist’s association with<br />
the city was important in the selection of works for this inaugural show, emphasizing a<br />
desire for the connection between the museum and its locality, while also broadening<br />
its international appeal. mcasd.org<br />
FACING PAGE<br />
The Cohn Gallery<br />
inside MCASD’s new<br />
La Jolla flagship.<br />
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NICHOLAS VENEZIA<br />
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COURTESY TSCHABALALA SELF AND THIERRY GOLDBERG GALLERY<br />
INSIDE VIEW<br />
ABOVE<br />
Tschabalala Self’s<br />
“Evening,” 2019.<br />
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© LARRY BELL 1964 © DE WAIN VALENTINE 1978, PHOTO BY PHILIPP SCHOLZ RITTERMANN<br />
© AI WEIWEI, M<strong>US</strong>EUM PURCHASE WITH FUNDS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY COLLECTORS<br />
© PETER ALEXANDER<br />
ABOVE<br />
Clockwise, from top left:<br />
De Wain Valentine’s<br />
“Diamond Column,”1978;<br />
“Orange Wedge” by<br />
Peter Alexander, 1970;<br />
Ai Weiwei’s “Marble<br />
Chair,” 2010;<br />
Larry Bell’s<br />
“Untitled,” 1964.<br />
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THE LAST WORD<br />
RAFAEL NADAL<br />
The tennis superstar on life away from the court<br />
TRAVEL<br />
Sun worshipper or thrill-seeker?<br />
I love the sea and I try to spend as much time<br />
as possible on my boat, for instance. More than<br />
beaches I look for the sea, the beautiful scenery<br />
and places.<br />
ACCOMMODATION<br />
Grandes dames, luxe design, or eminently<br />
private? I am very lucky in that regard since<br />
the tournaments where I play put us in amazing<br />
hotels. Some are more classical, such as the<br />
Intercontinental Le Grand or the Plaza Athénée<br />
in Paris, some others more modern. I have to go<br />
to ME Dubai, an amazing hotel.<br />
FOOD<br />
Top names or hidden gems? I am more for<br />
quality than for names. I like those places that<br />
I know around the world that might not have<br />
a star but are amazing, such as Sa Punta in<br />
Mallorca, Taverna Trilussa and Le Tamerici in<br />
Rome, Novikov or Cambio de Tercio in London.<br />
All excellent and I love those places.<br />
ARCHITECTURE<br />
Classical or modern? Both are compatible but<br />
I really enjoy cities like Paris, Madrid, Rome, or<br />
Barcelona to name a few. I also love New York,<br />
and its vibe and life.<br />
ARTS<br />
Still life or live performance? I love music and<br />
whenever I can I try to go to live concerts. I<br />
have been lucky on some trips and also had<br />
the chance to enjoy some of those shows. As<br />
a matter of fact, the artist I have seen the most<br />
live is my friend Julio Iglesias, since I have been<br />
at his concerts in Madrid, Mallorca, and even<br />
Indian Wells!<br />
TRANSPORT<br />
Fast lane or cruise control? I love my Kia,<br />
believe me, and in Mallorca, to go from one<br />
place to another on the island takes no more<br />
than 45 minutes. I also have a couple of<br />
speedsters that I enjoy only from time to time.<br />
FUTURE PLANS<br />
Coaching, media work or other? I believe I am<br />
more into the entrepreneurial options. I won’t<br />
say no to coaching, although it would be more<br />
through my Rafa Nadal Academy by Movistar<br />
rather than with only a single player. But as they<br />
say, never say never...<br />
JULIAN RENTZSCH<br />
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