TravelWorld International Magazine Summer 2022

SUMMER 2022 

travelworld 

INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE 

Summertime 

The Magazine Written & Photographed by North American Travel Journalists Association Members 

1

Letter from the Editor 

TravelWorld International Magazine 

is the only magazine that showcases 

the member talents of the 

North American 

Travel Journalists Association 

SUMMER 

2022 

travelworld 

INTERNATIONAL 

MAGAZINE 

Summertime is the perfect time for exploring the 

beauty of the great outdoors. The options are endless 

and many examples are displayed in this issue. 

From oceans and beaches around the world to the 

countryside and baseball at home, NATJA writers tell 

you inviting and informative stories, challenging and 

encouraging you to get out and live! 

Vacations are the name of the game, and lots of folks 

are excited to be going on one! While it is heartening 

to see that travel is picking up again, there is still the 

problem that the industry hasn’t gotten back to full 

strength. The result is that many have to navigate 

crowded terminals and stations amidst delays and 

cancellations which can be exceedingly frustrating. 

Thus, an important reminder is, while traveling please 

make every effort to be considerate, patient and kind! 

Courtesy toward fellow travelers and those providing 

services can help everyone enjoy a better travel 

experience. 

Group Publisher: 

Publishers: 

VP Operations: 

Editor: 

NATJA Publications 

Helen Hernandez & 

Bennett W. Root, Jr. 

Yanira Leon 

Joy Bushmeyer 

Contributing Writers & Photographers: 

Dale Dunlop 

Rich Grant 

Wendy Gunderson 

Bonnie McKenna 

Bob Nesoff 

Rosemarie Palmer 

Nicole Pensiero 

Steve Rosenberg 

Dan Schlossberg 

Debbie Stone 


Amazing Galapagos Steve Rosenberg 6 

Beach Hopping in Brazil Rich Grant 15 

Key West! Welcome to the Conch Republic Debbie Stone 22 

Hudson River Valley Starting with Saugteries Nicole Pensiero 30 

YAP-Land of Manta Rays & Gentle People Bonnie McKenna 34 

The Flavors of Grenada Wendy Gunderson 40 

6 15 

We at NATJA wish 

you all Happy and 

Successful Travels! 

Joy Bushmeyer, 

Editor 

Cover Photo Credit 

Nothing is prettier than the Hudson River Valley 

and the Catskills Countryside. This photo, by TWI’s 

new contributor Nicole Pensiero, epitomizes a 

relaxing summer day where you can almost smell the 

green grass, hear the bees buzzing and imagine all 

sorts of creations shaped by the puffy white clouds! 

Editorial /Advertising Offices: 

TravelWorld International Magazine 

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www.travelworldmagazine.com 

Volume 2022.02 Summer 2022. Copyright ©2022 

by NATJA Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. 

Reproduction in whole or in part without written 

permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and 

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advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine 

in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by 

NATJA Publications, Inc., nor do products or services 

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International Magazine reserve the right to reject 

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are their own and not necessarily those of Travel 

World International Magazine or NATJA Publications. 

TravelWorld International Magazine reserves the 

right to edit all contributions for clarity and length, 

as well as to reject any material submitted, and is 

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titles and headings therein, are trademarks of 

NATJA Publications, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A. 

22 30 

34 40 

2 

3

SUMMER 

2022 

travelworld 


INTERNATIONAL 

MAGAZINE 

Visiting the Marquesas on the Aranui 5 Dale Dunlop 44 

Add Haldiki to Your Greece Travel Plans Rosemarie Palmer 48 

44 48 

Stories by Two Founding NATJA Members 

Legendary Ballparks - Fenway & Wrigley Dan Schlossberg 52 

China - Land of Mystery in a Modern World Bob Nesoff 58 

52 58 

Springfield, Missouri, will surprise you with things you 

probably weren’t expecting – and your next story. 

Learn more at SpringfieldMO.org. 

4 

Contact Susan Wade at 800-678-8767 or 

swade@springfieldmo.org for story ideas and 

to plan your press trip. 

SpringfieldMo.org 

5

The Tiburon Explorer is the newest luxury dive yacht in the Galapagos. 

Amazing Galapagos 

Story and Photos by Steve Rosenberg 

Remote and isolated, the 

Galapagos Islands are worldrenowned 

for incredibly exciting 

diving and fascinating land 

excursions. All the astonishing 

variety of creatures and plants 

in the archipelago either flew, 

swam, or were blown there at 

some point in time. Due to 

the archipelago’s isolation, and 

singular and unusual conditions, 

many species in the Galapagos 

both underwater and on land 

are endemic, meaning they are 

found nowhere else on earth. 

The barren, volcanic landscape 

has its own unique, haunting 

and mysterious beauty. The 

Galapagos became a national 

park in 1959, and is certainly 

one of the most popular tourist 

destinations on earth. 

The Galapagos Archipelago is 

actually a province of Ecuador, 

consisting of 13 large islands, six 

small islands and well over 200 

islets and rocks. The Galapagos 

Islands straddle the equator, some 

600 miles or 973 kilometers off 

the West coast of the mainland of 

Ecuador. Only four of the Islands, 

Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, Isabella, 

and Floreana, are inhabited. Most 

of the people reside on the islands 

of Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. 

Although there are two major 

airports in the Galapagos Islands, 

there are no international flights. 

Visitors to the Galapagos must 

fly through the Ecuadorian cities 

of Quito or Guayaquil. To enter 

Ecuador from the United States 

at this time all you need is your 

passport and a copy of your Vaccination 

Certificate. Visitors to the Galapagos 

must pay a $20 transit fee in cash at the 

airport on the mainland, and then a 

$100.00 park fee in cash upon arrival in 

the Galapagos. 

Visitors to the Galapagos can stay in one 

of numerous hotels on Santa Cruz, San 

Cristobal, Isabela or Floreana or on one 

of many live-aboard yachts. The liveaboard 

yachts, which depart from Santa 

Cruz or San Cristobal, are designated 

as either Dive Yachts or Land Tour 

Yachts. Land Tour yachts offer land 

walks, panga (inflatable boat) rides and 

snorkeling. The dive yachts focus mainly 

on diving. On my recent trip in May, 

I elected to travel aboard Galapagos’ 

newest luxury dive yacht, the Tiburon 

Explorer. 

Each dive operation devotes 

the first two dives to check 

passengers dive gear to 

make sure they are properly 

weighted. The week-long 

itineraries for dive yachts 

are roughly the same. There 

are four major currents 

that converge on the Archipelago. As 

a result, the water surrounding the 

northern islands, Darwin and Wolf, is 

usually warm, while the water west of 

Isabela is very cold and the water near 

the central islands is moderately cold. 

All diving is done from inflatable boats 

referred to as “Pangas.” 

The Tiburon offers a week of diving in 

some of the best locations including 

Darwin Island, Wolf Island, Fernandina, 

the west coast of Isabela and Cousin’s 

Rock. The week also schedules land tours 

at North Seymour to see Blue Footed 

Boobies and Frigate Birds; and on Santa 

Cruz Island to see Giant Tortoises. 

Pangas or inflatable boats are used to take divers from the dive yacht to the dive sites. 

6 

7

First Day - Mosquera 

Wolf Island 

A diver 

discovers 

a large 

scorpionfish 

perfectly 

camouflaged 

on a lava 

rock at 

Mosquera. 

Visitors to N. Seymour can find 

interesting wild life subjects even 

before they get off the panga. 

The Tiburon anchored on the east side of 

Mosquera, a small low profile islet, near Baltra. 

This area is frequently used for checkout dives. 

We dove along the top of a drop-off at a max 

depth of 50 feet, swimming along a slope of 

jagged, barnacle covered boulders. We found 

large scorpionfish, moray eels, schools of fish, 

and white-tip sharks to entertain us. 

North Seymour Land Tour 

Because this site is so close to Santa Cruz Island, 

North Seymour is one of the most visited sites, 

but it is also one of the most fascinating land 

excursions. Visitors will find a rich variety of 

wildlife including sea lions, blue-footed boobies, 

frigatebirds, and iguanas. We passed through 

nesting areas of frigatebirds and blue-footed 

boobies. During the Spring mating season, the 

male frigatebirds display their huge, red, balloonlike 

sac on their throats. We also observed bluefooted 

boobies sitting on eggs or interacting with 

fluffy, newly hatched chicks. The blue-footed 

booby is quite distinctive, displaying its large, 

vivid, eggshell blue feet. 

On the second full day, we woke up at Wolf Island, having run 

overnight. Diving in the northern islands of the Galapagos 

is always an adrenaline-charged and exciting undertaking, 

which includes close encounters with the unique and fearless 

marine life. We clambered aboard the pangas, and motored 

to the southeast corner of Wolf, between the dive sites named 

“Landslide” and “Shark Bay.” Normally, the current hits this 

corner and splits, driving current to the north into Shark Bay 

and to the west along the Landslide. We flipped backward 

off the panga and descended to about 50 feet and waited for 

the guides to check on the conditions. Almost immediately, a 

group of seven eagle rays swam up to us. A few of us interacted, 

taking a few photos and video. In the distance, we could see 

shadowy figures of scalloped hammerhead sharks, swimming 

on a parallel course. There were many close encounters with 

reef fish and schools of fish. 

We returned to Landslide for the next couple of dives where 

we encountered hammerheads, turtles, Galapagos sharks 

and many schooling fishes. As the visibility increased, many 

other pelagics swam closer, presenting great photo and video 

opportunities. It was almost as if they didn’t perceive us as a 

threat and were hanging close for protection or perhaps for 

their amusement. 

On the late afternoon dive, we headed north into Shark Bay. As 

we followed the sloping wall a bit further, we were visited by 

several playful sea lions. We also found ‘fish balls’ formed by 

closely compacted schools of pompano, jacks or chubs. 

At the north end of Shark Bay, there is an interesting site 

called The Caves. There are a series of caves, occupied by sea 

turtles, white-tipped sharks, and rays. Toward the end of our 

dive, juvenile booby birds began to land right next to us on the 

surface of the water and would occasionally stick their heads 

underwater looking for baitfish. One booby popped its head 

underwater right in front of me, giving me the opportunity to 

get a photo. As we were doing our safety stop at 20 feet, we 

were passed by a small pod of bottlenose dolphin, capping off a 

pretty nice day of diving at Wolf. 

Hammerheads at 

Wolf Island 

Spotted Eagle Rays 

will often approach 

divers at the Landslide. 

A diver enters one of the 

caves on the northeast 

corner of Shark Bay. 

Male Frigate Birds displaying 

their bright red throat sac, are 

common on N. Seymour. 

Blue-footed 

boobies 

are very 

entertaining. 

A juvenile blue footed booby 

peeks under water to see if it 

can locate a school of baitfish. 

8 

9

Darwin Island 

On the next day, we dove a site 

named “the Theater” at Darwin 

Island. This exciting high-octane 

dive begins on a rocky ledge, just 

in front of the famous Darwin’s 

Arch, the top of which had recently 

collapsed on May 16, 2021 from 

natural erosion. Very large whale 

sharks are known to congregate at 

Darwin that sometimes measure 

17 meters (56 feet) long. 

The famous Darwin’s Arch collapsed in May of 2021 through 

natural erosion, and is now referred to as Darwin’s Pinnacles. 

Often divers will be 

surprised by large 

whale sharks that just 

seem to appear out of 

thick water. 

There is always lots to see at Darwin 

Island. Here a blacktip reef shark 

patrols the perimeter of a large 

school of big eye jacks. 

Leaning forward, we gripped the 

ledge at a depth of 50 feet, gazing 

intently up into the hazy water. A 

dense school of Pacific Creole fish 

hung high in the water column, 

signaling that the current was 

going to be light for a change. We 

could see a massive shadowy form 

slowly approaching our perch at 

the “Theatre,” its outline slowly 

becoming more distinct. An 

enormous whale shark appeared in 

front of us. We instantly took off, 

fins churning, to get in front of the 

huge fish for a closeup frontal view. 

She continued to move forward, 

propelled by her massive tail. 

Getting in front of her, I started 

snapping photos, trying to match 

her speed. Finally, I hung in the 

water and just watched her entire 

length pass before me. 

As I returned to the theater, a large 

hammerhead swam up to me and 

then slowly veered away. My buddy 

and I swam upward toward a large 

school of big eye jacks that just 

hung in the water column. The 

jacks parted slightly as a solitary 

blacktip shark slowly cruised their 

perimeter. Finally, our guide used 

his rattle, signaling us to follow 

him into the blue, ascending slowly 

to begin our safety stop. We kept 

an eye out for whale sharks, and 

we were almost instantly rewarded. 

After four dives at Darwin, we 

spent about an hour taking 

pictures of Darwin’s Pinnacles, the 

yacht and a beautiful sunset. 

Divers will often spend most of their dives 

looking for whale sharks, and will be reminded 

that there are other big animals at Darwin, like 

12 foot Hammerheads. 

I managed to get out in front of the whale shark and 

took a face shot a short distance from the Theater. 

Huge whale sharks, sometimes measuring 17 

meters long, congregate around the platform 

at Darwin Island between late June and the 

end of November. Sometimes they don’t 

check a calendar, and they show up early. 

A diver is dwarfed by the 

huge whale shark at Darwin. 

A tight school of big eye 

jacks up in the water 

column off the Theater. 

10 

11

Cabo Douglas 

Fernandia 

After another day of diving at Wolf, 

the yacht made the long overnight 

trek south, to the west side of Isabela. 

We wanted to observe marine 

iguanas feeding underwater. They sun 

themselves in the morning hours to 

warm up, so they can spend an extended 

period of time in the very cold waters 

around Cabo Douglas. The Cromwell 

current brings cold, nutrient-rich 

water from the deep ocean and it is 

not unusual for the water to dip to 60 

degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius). 

The Galapagos marine iguana is the only 

lizard/iguana in the world that swims 

and feeds underwater. These gentle 

herbivores survive mostly on green 

algae, which they easily tear off rocks 

with their short, blunt snouts and razor 

sharp teeth. 

Before the dive, we took a panga ride 

to check out the nearby shoreline. We 

Literally thousands of marine 

iguanas line the shore of 

Fernandina, waiting for an 

internal dinner bell to ring, 

driving them into the very cold 

water to feed on green algae. 

found thousands of marine iguanas 

strewn over most of the flat and 

sloping surfaces along the shoreline. 

There were also Blue footed 

boobies, flightless cormorants, lava 

herons, juvenile sea lions and even 

a couple of penguins competing 

for space. Like clockwork, the 

marine Iguanas started entering the 

water about 11:00am. We followed 

minutes later, and found countless 

marine iguanas scattered about the 

bottom, munching away on green 

algae. 20 minutes later, we started 

descending along a steep slope. As 

I was photographing a large male 

iguana that was feeding at 30 feet, 

a flightless cormorant swam over 

demanding that I take its picture 

also. Shaking my head at the luck, 

I continued to descend to a depth 

of about 95 feet. I found a couple of 

horn sharks and a red lipped batfish. 

After spending a few minutes at that 

depth, I decided to ascend. All in 

all, it was a very successful Photo 

shoot at Cabo Douglas. 

Galapagos marine iguanas are the only 

lizard/iguana in the world that feed 

underwater.. 

Punta Vicente Roca 

Isabela Island 

After lunch, we crossed the channel to 

Punta Vicente Roca. We jumped into 

the water along the wall at the north 

side of the cove and swam toward the 

point where there is usually a Mola 

Mola (Ocean Sunfish) cleaning station 

at a depth of about 100 feet (30m). We 

found them just off the corner at about 

ninety feet. The water was very cold and 

murky, but we snapped some photos 

and began our slow return along the 

wall. As we swam back, we found many 

colorful sea fans, as well as hundreds of 

striped Golden Hair cleaner shrimp. A 

couple of young sea lions appeared to 

escort us back to the shallows. 

That afternoon, the crew and guests 

celebrated ‘re-crossing’ the equator and 

prepared for our final day of diving the 

next day at Cousin’s rock, located just 

off the southeast corner of Santiago 

Island. 

Flightless 

cormorants 

have lost the 

ability to fly, 

and now they 

have adapted 

to hunt for 

fishes, crabs 

and other 

delectable 

seafood items 

underwater. 

Galapagos Penguins can always be seen 

at Punte Vicente Roca, either perched on 

a ledge or swimming in the water. 

Cousin’s Rock 

Santiago 

Cousin’s Rock is one of the 

best places to find sea horses. 

We spotted four in all. We 

also found several white-tip 

reef sharks hiding along the 

terraced ledges that run along 

the east side of Cousin’s Rock. 

Amongst the black coral trees, 

we also saw many long-nosed 

hawk fish, fanged blennies, as 

well as blue lined nudibranchs 

and predatory Pluerobranchs. 

As usual, we spotted many 

schools of fish. When we 

surfaced, we discovered a 

colony of fur seals playing 

among the rocks. 

Santa Cruz Island- The 

Highlands and Puerto Ayora 

Our final excursion was a 

bus ride into the Santa Cruz 

highlands, where we observed 

giant tortoises in the wild. 

We marveled at these large 

creatures weighing up to 

450 pounds, that can live as 

long as one hundred and fifty 

years. We then traveled to 

Puerto Ayora, on the south 

side of Santa Cruz, where we 

would shop for memories and 

meet for one last dinner in the 

company of strangers, with 

whom we had shared so many 

adventures during the weeklong 

itinerary. 

We reflected on the 

incredible underwater 

journey that we had taken 

in this special place named 

Galapagos. Our diving was 

done for this trip, but I for one 

was already dreaming of my 

next adventure to the amazing 

Galapagos Islands. 

Cousin’s Rock is one of the 

best places to find Pacific Sea 

Horses in the Galapagos. 

White Tip Reef Sharks can usually be found 

tucked back in the recesses formed by the 

terraced ledges at Cousin’s Rock. 

A hundred year old, 400 pound Dome Tortoise lumbers along in the highlands of Santa Cruz. 

A sea lion makes good use of a chaise lounge at a hotel on the water in Puerto Ayora. 

12 

13

Beautiful Beaches 

within reaches. 

The cable 

car to the 

summit of 

Sugarloaf 

Mountain 

in Rio. 

Many of Rio’s famous beaches can be seen from the 

top of Sugarloaf Mountain, which can be reached by 

cable car and is spectacular, especially at sunset. 

BEACH HOPPING IN BRAZIL 

Story and Photos by Rich Grant 

® 

Of course, Rio de Janeiro has two of the most famous and beautiful beaches in the world. 

But while Ipanema and Copacabana are gorgeous, they are also in the center of a city of 

13.6 million people with all the traffic, chaos and noise that accompanies such a location. 

If you’re looking for a true, “get-away-from-it-all” Brazilian beach town paradise, that’s easy! 

There are three choices just a 2-3-hour luxury bus ride away, each with its own personality. 

HERE’S HOW TO DO IT... 

You don’t have to go all the way to the Caribbean or to that one island 

off the coast of that one country to enjoy gorgeous beaches. You can 

get all that fun in the sun, world-class cuisine and amazing history right 

here in St. Augustine | Ponte Vedra. 

Ipanema Beach is 

one of the most 

famous beaches 

in the world and 

is in the center of 

downtown Rio. 

Visit FloridasHistoricCoast.com to learn more. 

14 

15

The most romantic part of Buzios is the harbor, filled with excursion 

sailboats and centered around the statue of Brigitte Bardot. 

It’s a bit slow by day when people are out 

diving, snorkeling, beach relaxing, sailing 

or hiking, but come twilight, the town 

becomes as romantic as any resort in France 

or Spain, and a bit more exotic since like all 

South America, parties way into the night. 

The boardwalk along the 

shore in Buzios is lined 

with flowers, cafes, 

benches, bars and 

restaurants while boats 

float offshore. 

With 20 beaches, Buzios spreads out over 

a large area, but for simple romance, pick 

a posada within walking distance of the 

Brigitte Bardot statue and you’ll be in the 

center of everything. There is direct bus 

service of 2-3 hours depending on traffic to 

Rio’s International Airport, or downtown 

Rio, so Buzios makes a great place to 

unwind after a trip to Rio and you can leave 

directly from the beach to the airport. 

BUZIOS 

THE TOWN MADE BY 

BRIGIETTE BARDO 

The boardwalk along the shore in 

Buzios is lined with restaurants and 

small docks where boats can land. 

Brigitte Bardot made Buzios 

famous as a resort area in the 

1960s and is now honored in 

town with a statue where you 

must take a selfie. 

Buzios was a simple fishing village 

on the dry, desert-like east coast of 

Brazil just two hours from Rio until 

the 1960s when they had a famous 

visitor from France. Brigitte Bardo. 

Brigitte’s fame has not aged well and 

today, most people are unfamiliar 

with her films and her popularity. 

But she was the Kardashians of the 

1960s and when she discovered 

Buzios and compared it to the 

French Riviera, history was made. 

Buzios has a huge collection of restaurants offering 

fresh seafood, steak (Brazil raises more beef than 

anywhere in the world) and other delights. 

Buzios has a 

dry climate with 

cactus and plenty 

of sunshine. 

In recognition of her contribution, 

Brigitte is honored with a statue 

in the center of Buzios and today, 

grabbing a selfie with her statue 

is a must. The resort, which 

really is like the French Riviera, 

is now home to 20 beaches with 

a trendy village pedestrian center 

of cobblestone streets, outdoor 

bars, beachside restaurants, elegant 

windows packed with South 

American fashions, live bands, and 

great late-evening people watching. 

Buzios has 20 sand beaches with turquoise 

water and vivid green hills. 

Sunset along the boardwalk of Buzios, 

near the statue of Brigitte Bardot. 

16 

17

Ilha Grande has a 

small fleet of two 

masted schooners 

that offer day sails 

to deserted beaches 

where you have to 

jump off the boat and 

swim to shore. 

The only way to get to Ilha 

Grande is to land at the 

dock in Vila do Abraao, the 

only town on the island. 

ILHA GRANDE 

THE PRISON COLONY OF YOUR 

DREAMS 

It takes a bit of effort to get here, but it’s worth it. 

From Rio’s main bus station, book a luxury bus with 

restrooms on board and head due south about two 

hours to Concecao de Jacarei. It’s not much of a place, 

but at the sleepy bus stop, anyone will direct you how 

to walk down to the beach. Grab a couple of cold 

beers on the way. At the harbor, boat skippers will 

approach and, in a few minutes you’ll be sailing across 

the harbor to Vila do Abraão, the only town on Ilha 

Grande. 

What an experience it is to sail into this harbor. It’s 

Pirates of the Caribbean come to life – an unspoiled 

village of one-and two-story buildings on a small strip 

of sand with jungle mountain as a backdrop. There are 

only a few streets and they are all made of sand, but 

filled with cafes and bars. Since there is not a single 

car on the island, you can hear birds and surf, listen to 

the swaying of palm trees overhead, smell the pot that 

hippies are smoking and hear the caps being popped 

off beers at the bars. 

All activity focuses on the dock, where boats come 

and go, bringing shipments of beer and food, and 

unloading quickly to let the next boat sail in. The town 

loafers sit here all day. In the evening, the small harbor 

is filled a half-dozen beautiful two-mast sailing ships. 

Ilha Grande only has one 

small town on a strip of 

sand. The rest of the 

island is jungle mountains. 

Many of the streets of Ilha 

Grande are just sand, built 

next to the beach.. 

At happy hour you can easily buy four local 

Caipirinha cocktails for $5 total US as you watch the 

lights of the houses and bars and small inns come on, 

one-by-one, along the halfmoon ring of the harbor 

beach, as the music of isolated guitar players and 

drums drift up from the village. 

The cobblestone 

streets of Ilha Grande 

with mountains as a 

backdrop. 

Ilha Grande was a 

prison until the early 

20th century. You 

can walk to the ruins, 

which are also near 

jungle waterfalls. . 

18 

Life in Ilha Grande centers 

around the beachfront, which 

has a half moon bay lined with 

small inns, shops, restaurants, 

and bars with live music and a 

fleet of two-masted schooners 

floating offshore. 

Breakfast 

in Ilha 

Grande has 

fresh fruit, 

brought to 

the island 

by a steady 

armada 

of boats 

from the 

mainland 

that are 

constantly 

coming and 

going with 

food, beer 

and lucky 

visitors. 

Strangely, this place was once hell-on-earth. In 

the early 1900s it was a prison colony for the most 

desperate criminals. You can walk on jungle trails 

to the ruins of the prison or to waterfalls, or even 

up a mountain top if you like. The small fleet of 

schooners, which resemble pirate ships, provide 

excursions to islands and beaches where there is no 

electricity, residents or even a dock. You simply jump 

off the boat and swim to shore, knowing that an icecold 

beer is always waiting back on the boat. 

There is one catch. In an era of COVID, Ilha Grande 

also had a recent outbreak of Yellow Fever. Yikes! 

Get the Yellow Fever vaccine before you go and 

lather up with insect repellant. There’s no better selfie 

in today’s world than standing in front of a jungle 

trail that says “Do Not Enter if You Have Not Had the 

Yellow Fever Vaccine.” 

19

You can tour 

Paraty’s romantic 

back streets by 

horse-drawn 

carriage, although 

you might want 

to tour the 

cobblestone 

streets by foot 

with sturdy 

sandals. 

Paraty is a colorful colonial town with a large 

harbor of brightly painted boats that offer day 

sails along the coast and to nearby islands. 

Paraty’s harbor is filled with an armada of 

colorful boats that take people out on day 

excursions to deserted beaches and islands. 

At night, 

Paraty’s 

romantic 

cobblestone 

streets 

are lit by 

lanterns. 

PARATY 

ILHA GRANDE’S 

GRANDE BROTHER 

When Ilha Grande was a prison colony, 

Paraty was the rich colonial town 

nearby on the mainland that was the 

prison’s lifeline to the world. Paraty 

is not undiscovered. It is a UNESCO 

World Heritage site and is about equal 

distance from Rio and Sao Paulo, which 

means that about half of Brazil heads 

there on the weekend. And with good 

reason. It is simply marvelous. 

The Old Town is a huge 40 square-block 

area closed off to vehicles and stuffed 

with stone churches, cobblestone streets, 

horse-drawn carriages, and a harbor full 

of schooners and brightly painted boats 

(ten times as many boats as on Ilha 

Grande). It looks just like it must have 

looked a hundred years ago. Except 

that the old stone buildings now house 

wonderful shops with windows full of 

art and fashions, galleries of Brazilian 

handicrafts and restaurants that spill 

out on to the cobblestone streets with 

bustling waiters and brightly colored 

tablecloths. Old-fashioned lanterns give 

the town a wonder glow at twilight and 

shops stay up until 10 pm 

Paraty’s “Stations of the Cross” is 

open on special occasions. By day, 

the colorful stations are hidden behind 

shutters. Despite being a popular tourist 

destination, Paraty is also a real town with 

many religious celebrations. We were 

there on Good Friday and the town was 

filled with a parade of lanterns, singing 

candles and religious ceremonies. 

A unique feature of Paraty is that at 

certain times of the year, a high tide 

comes in and washes the streets, 

turning the village into a small 

Venice. On these days, all the streets 

are covered with water -- water that 

is too deep and dirty to venture into. 

The shops throw up little wood plank 

bridges to help people get around, but 

many streets became inaccessible. But 

then the tide goes out, the restaurants 

bring tables and chairs out on to 

the cobblestone streets, and party in 

Paraty starts again. 

The colorful 

cobblestone streets 

of the historic district 

of Paraty, a UNESCO 

World Heritage site. 

A colorful beach bar in Paraty built into an old boat. 

The town beach is a five-minute walk from the Old 

Town, and there are trails leading from here to old 

forts, canals, coast and jungle mountains…with 

signs warning you not to venture into the jungle if 

you have not had a Yellow Fever vaccination. 

At certain times of the year, high tide comes in and floods and washes the 

streets of Paraty. It doesn’t last long and soon the chairs and tables of the 

bars and restaurants are back on the street. 

20 

In Paraty, Brazil, you can expect 

to get potatoes AND rice with your 

grilled local shrimp. Everything is 

fantastic and fresh. 

Romantic Paraty at twilight. 

Most restaurants in Paraty are 

just tables and chairs set up 

daily on the cobblestone streets. 

Typical of South America, the action and 

dining in Paraty doesn’t start until well after 

dark and goes late into the night. 

21

Key West 

Welcome to the Conch Republic 

Story and Photos by Debbie Stone 

The Hemingway House is one of the top attractions in town. 

There are 

paintings 

and photos 

of Papa 

Hemingway 

in his 

house. 

ou might not 

think that roosters, 

six-toed cats, 

Hemmingway and 

President Truman 

share anything in 

common. But, they do, 

having each called Key West home 

at one point or another. And 

some, like the roosters and cats, 

have become permanent denizens 

of this irreverent southernmost, 

subtropical paradise. 

Located closer to Cuba than to 

Miami, this Florida destination 

is known for its colorful history, 

sunny warm climate, natural 

beauty, cultural diversity and 

unique architecture. The streets are 

lined with palm trees and you’ll see 

conch homes with tin roofs aside 

gingerbread mansions. There’s a 

romantic appeal about this place 

that’s undeniable. 

Hemmingway, along with 

numerous other notables like 

Robert Frost, Tennessee Williams 

and yes, Jimmy Buffet, found 

inspiration in this island city with 

its Bahamian and Cuban heritage. 

They, like so many, discovered 

a community of acceptance and 

freedom to embrace their identities. 

Roosters rule the roost in 

Key West. 

As for the roosters, they have 

roamed Key West since the 

1800s when Cubans and 

Bahamians brought them over 

for cockfighting. When the 

sport was outlawed in the 1900s, 

the creatures, left to their own 

devices, multiplied. Today, they 

can be found everywhere and 

you can’t miss hearing them 

crow at all hours of the day and 

night. They have become an 

unofficial mascot for the town. 

And don’t even think of feeding 

them or harassing them. If 

caught, you’ll face a $500 fine. 

The story behind the cats relates to 

Ernest Hemingway. The famed writer 

was given a white six-toed kitten, 

Snow White, by a ship’s captain back 

in the 1930s. Sailors favored these 

polydactyl cats, believing they were 

good luck. Supposedly, their extra 

toes gave them better abilities as 

mousers on the ships, while helping 

them maintain better balance on the 

rollicking, rough seas. 

One cat led to another and today 

many descendants of Snow White 

live on the museum grounds of the 

Hemingway Home and Museum, 

with about half of the sixty odd 

resident cats exhibiting the physical 

indicator of extra toes. 

Hemingway named all of his cats 

after famous people, like Betty 

Grable, Joe Di Maggio, Clark Gable 

and Hunter S. Thompson, and the 

keepers of his home have continued 

that tradition. When you visit the 

house, you’ll find these felines 

everywhere, on Hemingway’s 

custom-made bed, sunning 

themselves on the veranda, sleeking 

along the walkways, ensconced in the 

stairwells…And don’t miss the Cat 

Cemetery, where there are miniature 

gravestones commemorating the 

lives of these celebs. 

ou’ll hear all about Papa Hemingway when you 

tour this beautiful Spanish colonial home with lush 

gardens. Guides regale visitors with stories of the 

author’s over-the-top machismo, his feuds with other 

writers, the amount of alcohol he consumed nightly, 

the fistfights he had with his fellow inebriated souls, his 

fishing conquests and more. There are photos galore, movie posters 

and an assortment of artifacts and Hemingway’s belongings. 

On the grounds, you’ll also find Hemingway’s bungalow, where 

surrounded by animal heads and stuffed fish, he wrote each day, in 

longhand, at least five hundred words, hung-over or not. There’s a 

swimming pool, too – the first in-ground pool on Key West – which 

was exorbitantly expensive for its time. Story has it that Pauline, 

Hemingway’s second wife, tore down his boxing ring and had the 

pool built while he was away. When he returned, he became so 

angry with what she had done that he took a penny from his pocket 

and tossed it down, saying, “You have succeeded in spending my last 

red cent!” She promptly had the penny embedded in the pool patio. 

Feline residents make themselves 

comfy on Hemingway’s bed. 

Look for the Cat Cemetery at 

the Hemingway House. 

Learn all about Papa Hemingway when 

you tour the Hemingway House. 

Hemingway wrote each 

day in his bungalow. 

Hemingway used 

the lighthouse to 

navigate his way 

home after carousing 

the night away. 

22 

23

President Truman held 

many meetings at the Little 

White House in Key West. 

Get out on the water for 

a quintessential island 

experience 

Stroll along the Harbor Walk to eye the 

boats and the harbor denizens. 

Don’t forget to spend time at the beach! 

or the Truman 

connection to 

Key West, you’ll 

need to visit Truman’s 

Little White House. 

Take a tour of what was once 

the winter White House for 

this President and see where 

he lived, worked, played and 

held important government 

meetings. 

Over the years, numerous 

dignitaries made use of 

the Little White House, 

including Presidents Taft, 

Kennedy, Carter and Clinton, 

and even the inventor Edison, 

who stayed for six months 

while formulating new 

weapons for the war efforts. 

There are many other people 

who have had significant 

impact on the island and 

you can find them at the 

Key West Historic Memorial 

Sculpture Garden. Within 

this oasis are impressively 

cast bronze busts of thirtysix 

influential residents, with 

information about their 

contributions. 

Top-rated The Marker Key West is the ideal place to stay. 

Discover the many 

residents who made 

significant contributions 

to Key West. 

You’ll ooh and aah 

at the tropical floral 

bounty that bedecks 

the homes. 

You’ll find plenty of droolworthy 

architecture as you amble around town. 

hen you’re 

not learning 

about all the famous inhabitants 

of Key West, you can enjoy a 

wide variety of watersports, 

charter a boat for some deepsea 

fishing, go shrimping, shop 

till you drop, explore the town’s 

numerous attractions, take in a 

musical or theatrical production, 

catch some rays on the beach 

and stroll along the busy, historic 

harbor front or peaceful back 

streets, as you ooh and ahh at 

the floral bounty bedecking the 

homes and gardens. 

I guarantee you’ll be taking pic 

after pic during your amblings 

around town, as this is one very 

photographic destination. Among 

the many sought-after sights that 

tourists want to capture on their 

cameras is the Southernmost 

Point Buoy. Preferably, they 

want a photo of themselves in 

front of this landmark. Like the 

name suggests, the buoy does 

mark this geographic point in 

the continental U.S. – almost. 

Technically, the exact place is 

Ballast Key, but the public can’t go 

there. And really, who’s worried 

about a technicality? When you 

see a long line of patiently waiting 

folks, you’ll know you’re in the 

right place. My advice, go early to 

have the spot to yourself. 

The Southernmost Point Buoy is a popular 

attraction. 

24 

25

The Rum Bar is a well-known watering hole in town. 

There are over 300 kinds of rum at the Rum Bar. 

Seafood reigns 

supreme in 

Key West. 

Sample a rum runner at the 

Rum Bar on the food tour. 

ood also plays a starring role 

in Key West, with restaurants 

for every palette and budget. To get a 

good overview of the local cuisine, I 

recommend taking a tour with Key West 

Food Tours. The “Southernmost Food Tasting 

and Cultural Walking Tour” is one of the 

company’s most popular offerings. It celebrates 

the Cuban and Caribbean influences on both 

food and culture in the Keys. You’ll stop at 

five locally-owned establishments for hearty 

tastings and along the way, your guide will 

provide insights about the city’s history, culture 

and architecture, plus give suggestions on 

where to visit and eat during your trip. 

Our tour started at El Siboney, a longtime, 

family-owned and operated restaurant, 

specializing in authentic Cuban food, paella 

and local seafood. We sampled some delicious 

Puerco Asado, marinated roasted pork, with 

white rice, black beans, plantains and Cuban 

bread. 

Next stop was The Speakeasy Inn and The 

Rum Bar for a Rum Runner cocktail. This 

establishment is located in an historic building 

with two unusual features. The first are the 

balustrades around the second-floor balcony, 

which depict shapes of bottles, hearts and 

spades. Homeowner Raul Vasquez brought 

these back from Cuba so he could advertise 

the fact that there was alcohol and gambling 

available at his place – this was during 

Prohibition times. He smuggled the rum back 

from Cuba, too, and stored it in his basement 

(unusual feature number two). Basements are 

few and far between on the island, as there’s 

just too much water underground to make 

basement construction practical or feasible in 

most cases. 

This snug watering hole offers 350 plus rums 

from around the world. If you want to try a 

few, ask for a flight. The bartenders here are 

knowledgeable and always happy to give you 

information about the different rums. They 

can make just about any drink you want, but, 

as you might expect, traditional tropical rum 

drinks are their forte. The house specialty 

is a Painkiller and I’m told this libation is 

legendary on the island. 

t Mangoes, we had 

freshly made conch 

fritters. Our guide 

talked to us about conch 

(pronounced “konk”), a 

mollusk similar to 

calamari in texture. 

It’s readily available on the island and very 

versatile. Many restaurants serve conch dishes 

and you’ll find conch salad, conch chowder, 

cracked conch burgers, conch wrapped in 

tortillas, breaded and deep-fried. 

Our guide told us that people born and raised 

on Key West are called “conchs,” while those 

who live here but are born elsewhere are 

known as “fresh-water conchs.” 

She then shared why Key West is called the 

“Conch Republic.” It all started in March of 

1982 as a response to a roadblock on the main 

highway between the Keys and mainland 

Florida. The Border Patrol erected this 

blockade to stop vehicles and search for drugs 

and illegal immigrants. It created a massive 

traffic jam and was a major pain for residents in 

the area. To comprehend how serious this was, 

you need to know there are only two roads that 

connect the mainland to the Keys. 

City council members tried to stop the 

roadblocks and searches by complaining to 

the federal government and attempting to get 

injunctions against the action. But they failed. 

In protest, Mayor Dennis Wardlow, declared 

the independence of Key West on April 23rd of 

the same year. He reasoned that the roadblocks 

acted as a border station, which meant that the 

government was treating the Keys like a foreign 

nation. So, in his mind, they might as well act 

like one. 

Wardlow was designated the Prime Minister 

and the territory became the Conch Republic. 

There was much hoopla generated over this 

tongue-in-cheek secession, but the publicity 

had an effect. It didn’t take long before the 

roadblocks were removed, however, the Conch 

Republic identity remained. You can actually 

still get a Conch Republic passport and driver’s 

license. And if you fly in to Key West, you’ll see 

the “Welcome to the Conch Republic” sign at 

the airport. 

Enjoy all things conch at the Conch Republic Seafood Company 

Cool off with a 

refreshing libation. 

Key West is known for its 

colorful buildings. 

Welcome to the Conch Republic! 

26 

27

Evenings are a lively affair in Key West 

Take a dip in one of the several pools at The Marker. 

what makes a classic? 

Judged over time to be remarkably definitive, historically significant 

and of the highest quality. A classic knows when to hold true to its 

roots yet always be evolving. One thing about Newport is that it’s 

constantly in motion; always moving forward – just like the sea itself – 

even though its old New England soul is forever unchanged. 

It is The Classic Coast. 

ack to the food tour 

and to Kaya Island 

Eats for some delicious 

mahi with pineapple 

salsa and coconut rice, perhaps my favorite 

of the samples on the tour. The flavors 

melded perfectly and I know if I have this 

dish anywhere else in the future, it will take 

me back to Key West in a visceral way. 

Last stop was Cuban Coffee Queen to 

sample real Cuban coffee – strong, oh, so 

strong! And to accompany it, a slice of 

perfectly tart Key Lime Pie. I’m besotted 

with anything that has Key Lime in it and 

love that you can find it in everything from 

ice cream and sauces….to lotions and 

potions. 

As the sun sets, the nightlife on Key West 

gets going in a big way. People flock to the 

bars and restaurants to eat, imbibe and 

party hearty. Live music and entertainment 

overflows onto the main streets and all 

along the harbor front, and the crowds 

get more raucous by the hour. It’s a great 

people-watching scene! 

Those who are staying in one of 

the hotels or inns that are centrally 

located to all the action have a 

better chance of finding their 

way back to their rooms late at 

night without too much issue, 

stumbling aside. Or you can be 

like Hemmingway, who used the 

island’s lighthouse to navigate 

home after a night of debauchery. 

If your lodging is in the heart of 

town, you only have to park your 

car once, as most everything is 

walkable. During my time on the 

island, I stayed at The Marker 

Key West, a luxury, amenityrich, 

boutique property set on 

two beautifully landscaped acres, 

featuring 96 rooms and suites, 

three swimming pools, and an 

onsite restaurant and bar. This 

special haven has the feel of a 

tropical island resort escape, yet 

it’s situated right on the Historic 

Seaport and close to restaurants 

and attractions. 

Rooms are spacious and airy, with 

lots of natural light, while the décor 

is fresh and breezy. Private balconies 

offer various views; some overlook 

the pools, others gaze out at the 

harbor, where you can be dazzled by 

a fiery sunset or watch the parade of 

boats pass by. 

Beds are super comfy with 

sumptuous linens. Bathrooms 

feature soaking tubs and walk-in rain 

showers, with Key West Aloe bath 

products (my new favorites!). And 

if you are one of those who needs 

to exercise in a gym, no worries, 

as there’s a state-of-the-art fitness 

center where you can do some heartpumping 

cardio or weight training. 

Rent bikes, book a boat trip or 

watersport activity, get directions 

and restaurant recommendations, 

reserve show tickets…ask and you 

shall receive, as the concierge here is 

a font of knowledge about all things 

Key West. 

Visit our website for the latest things to do, 

places to stay, where to eat and places to shop. 

28 

If you go: 

www.visitflorida.com/places-to-go/southeast/key-west/ 

www.keywestfoodtours.com 

www.themarkerkeywest.com 

DiscoverNewport.org 

29

The Windham Path in Greene County winds 

through miles of Catskills countryside, part 

of the magnificent Hudson River Valley 

The Hudson River Valley 

The scenery along both sides of the Hudson River can be breathtakingly beautiful. 

This is the view from FDR’s childhood home, called Springwood, in Hyde Park, NY. 

It’s about a 15-minute walk to the famed 

1869 Saugerties Lighthouse, which now 

houses a small B&B. 

N 

Starting with Saugerties 

30 

O 

R 

T 

H 

A 

M 

E 

R 

I 

C 

A 

Story and Photos by Nicole Pensiero 

Exploring New York State’s magnificent 10-county Hudson Valley 

is a bit like that adage attributed to Nelson Mandela: 

“How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.” 

nd that is 

how I’ve 

come to 

know this 

amazing part 

of the world: one 

“bite” at a time. 

My fascination with the Hudson 

Valley – which draws some 25 million 

visitors annually – started several years 

ago with a visit to Hyde Park in Dutchess 

County. This is where you’ll find many 

of the region’s “big ticket” attractions: 

the FDR Presidential Library and 

Franklin D. Roosevelt’s childhood home, 

Springwood; the Culinary Institute 

of America, and one of the famed 

Vanderbilt mansions. Dutchess County 

is also home to an amazing County Fair 

each August that draws half a million 

people over six days. It’s also where 

hundreds of people come to the popular 

Omega Institute, a holistic retreat for 

adults that’s set up a bit like a summer 

camp. 

Taking annual summer trips to this 

fabulous part of New York State has 

been made easier and more fun through 

the discovery of an ideal “jumping off ” 

point for our adventures: the charming 

community of Saugerties, on the west 

side of the Hudson River. The hometown 

of comedian Jimmy Fallon, this former 

milling town in Ulster County is an 

unpretentious place with an array 

of boutiques, shops, and some great 

restaurants. From the expansive, privately 

owned Inquiring Minds bookstore, 

complete with an impressive collection 

of vintage vinyl records; to the popular 

Alleyway Ice Cream – located in, yes, an 

alleyway, and named by EatThis.com as 

New York State’s best ice cream – there’s 

no shortage of things to experience right 

in town. 

Home to nearly 20,000 people, Saugerties 

is also home to two of the Hudson Valley’s 

most spectacular sites: the 1869 Saugerties 

Lighthouse, which today houses a 

small B&B, and the amazing Opus 40, a 

mind-boggling environmental sculpture 

located on more than 14 acres of verdant 

landscape. Built over several decades by 

the late pioneering artist Harvey Fite, 

Opus 40 seems a shrine to nature itself, 

inspired by Mayan Ruins. There is even a 

nine-ton monolith that Fite – who died 

during an accident during his 37th year 

of working on the project – installed on 

his own. It’s a real “you have to see it to 

believe it” place. 

The Hudson Valley -- rising from the tip 

of Manhattan and running all the way to 

the state capital of Albany -- is spread out 

on both sides of the mighty Hudson River, 

with towns and small cities that often 

seem frozen in time. 

Springwood is the only place 

in the U.S. where a President 

was born, maintained a lifelong 

connection, and lies buried. 

Opus 40 in Saugerties is the amazing 

creation of Harvey Fite, who spent nearly 40 

years working on the monumental sculpture 

– and who died in the process. 

31

Opened in late 2019, 11.5-mile 

Ashokan Rail Trail in Ulster 

County, NY, is perfect for 

strolling, biking, or relaxing. 

The Storm King Art Center offers 

interesting pieces of sculpture 

amid beautiful vistas. 

taying in Saugerties 

has become, in recent 

years, our “go-to” place 

in the region – providing 

easy access to sights on both sides of 

the river and some of the best cultural, 

culinary and scenic experiences 

imaginable. 

A few highlights include: 

32 

WOODSTOCK 

Woodstock, about a 15-minute drive 

from Saugerties, is a fun and funky little 

town filled with quirky boutiques and 

some great eateries. Since the pandemic, 

it has become more popular than ever – 

so best to set off in the morning before 

traffic becomes a problem. (Note that, 

despite its name, Woodstock is not the 

actual location of the famed 1969 music 

festival. That would be an hour’s drive 

west, to Bethel). 

THE 

ASHOKAN RAIL TRAIL 

Open from sunrise to sunset year-round, 

this 11-mile recreational path runs 

along the scenic Ashokan Reservoir. The 

ADA-compliant rail trail is popular with 

everyone from dog walkers to bicyclists 

to runners, and offers some spectacular 

scenery by glistening water nestled amid 

the Catskill Mountains. 

KAATERSKILL FALLS 

Located in nearby Greene County, 

Kaaterskill Falls is one of the Catskill 

Mountains’ most famous sights and, at 

260-feet, the tallest waterfall in New York 

State (nearly 100 feet taller than Niagara). 

This two-tiered waterfall has been the 

subject of countless paintings and photos 

dating back to the 1800s. It is a magnificent 

natural wonder, not to be missed. 

Be sure to stop along the way at the 

Circle W Market in Palenville. Housed 

in an original 1909 general store, this is 

a charmingly quirky combination café 

(with yummy breakfast and lunch 

offerings), gift shop and grocery store. 

THE HUDSON RIVER 

SCHOOL 

The Hudson River School style of 

landscape painting – considered 

America’s first art movement (1820 – 

1890) – has left its mark on the region. 

Check out Cedar Grove in the town of 

Catskill, former home of British-born 

painter Thomas Cole, founder of the 

movement. There you can tour his house 

and studio – as well as enjoy a stunning 

view of the mountains from the front 

porch. (One of Cole’s most famous 

paintings is his 1826 masterpiece, 

“Kaaterskill Falls” – which is depicted as 

looking virtually untouched today). 

THE WALKWAY 

OVER THE HUDSON 

The Walkway Over the Hudson, is a former 

railroad bridge that spans the river from the 

town of Highland (in Ulster County) on the west 

bank, to Poughkeepsie (in Dutchess County) on 

the east bank. Originally opened as a railroad 

bridge in 1899, it sat unused for decades, until it 

was renovated and reopened in 2009. It’s about 

a three-mile walk round trip, and dogs are 

welcome. On a clear day, there is no better place 

to get a sweeping, dramatic view of the Hudson 

River Valley. 

THE STORM KING 

Heading south, into Orange County, check out 

The Storm King, a 500-acre world-renowned 

outdoor sculpture park and museum that 

provides visitors with a unique melding of 

art and nature. With more than 100 outdoor 

sculptures, the Storm King also offers bicycle 

rentals, tram tours and an open-air café. 

HUDSON RIVER CRUISES 

This a great part of the world to see by 

water: There’s a two-hour sightseeing 

cruise leaving from Kingston, the 

capital of Ulster County, offered by 

Hudson River Cruises, that runs 

through October. A bit further south, 

in Orange County, check out the Pride 

of the Hudson, which takes visitors for 

a two-hour ride through the majestic 

Hudson Highlands and goes 

around the famous Bannerman 

Island, which houses a nowempty 

home, built in 1901, and 

styled after a Scottish castle. 

As you can see, there is an 

endless array of things to see 

and do in the Hudson Valley 

– especially in the summer 

months. To me, it’s a little slice 

heaven, here on earth. 

The charming 

Circle W Market 

in Greene 

County is part 

café, part gift 

shop and part 

food market. 

33

Manta and Diver - 

Photo courtesy of Bill Aker, 

owner of Manta Ray Bay Resort 

Entrance MRBDR 

YAP 

The Land of Manta Rays, Stone Money, and Gentle People 

Story and Photos by: Bonnie McKenna 

got a phone call in the middle of the night 

from a scuba diving buddy saying, “Manta 

Ray Dive Resort is hosting MantaFest on 

Yap next week, grab your camera, dive gear 

and be there, no excuses,” and then hung 

up. “MantaFest, Yap, why would I not want 

to join the fun, take photos, and scuba dive with 

the manta rays?” I said out loud. 

I immediately pictured the beautiful island archipelago, 

envisioned the graceful mantas silently gliding in the clear 

water of the lagoons and the unique island culture of the 

Yapese. Mentally, I was already on my way. 

I lived on the island of Guam for five years and have been 

to Yap several times. My mainland friends thought I was 

joking when I told them where I was going. Not many 

people have heard of Yap, but it is one of the most unique 

islands in Micronesia. 

Yap Stone Money Yapese woman Navigator Societyboat 

34 

35

Manta Ray - 



ap is best known, especially 

among the scuba divers, for manta 

rays. The island leads the world 

in manta ray conservation. Laws 

protecting the manta ray habitat include 

all the islands, atolls and islets that make 

up the archipelago. 

The islands of Yap have some of the healthiest 

reefs in Micronesia. Diving with giant manta 

rays brings people to Yap from around the world. 

The mantas come into the lagoons daily to feed 

and to have tiny parasites cleaned from their skin 

by small fish at cleaning stations. Whether diving 

or snorkeling, schools of reef fish, turtles, sharks, 

and eagle rays can be seen on the outer reefs and 

drop-offs. 

Manta at cleaning station - 



Yap is halfway around the world, and you feel 

it when your plane lands. Arrival is in the wee 

small hours of the morning. After checking in 

to the beautiful Manta Ray Bay Dive Resort and 

shown to your room, your bed is a welcome 

sight. 

Manta on the reef - 



36 

MantaFest is a 14-day adventure, but several 

packages are offered if you cannot stay for the 

entire festival. I signed up for the whole festival, 

the best deal for the time and money it takes to 

get to Yap. 

The dive package included two-tanks, with 

options for a 3rd dive and nitrox. Dive locations 

are determined by the dive guides and the tides, 

so the entire group of participants do not end up 

on the same site at the same time. Diving begins 

every morning at 8:00 a.m. 

Professional underwater photographers offered 

courses on various aspects of underwater 

photography that we all struggle to understand 

and become proficient in. The seminars covered 

everything from drones to strobes, to wide-angle, 

to video. Private instruction was also offered. 

With a generous list of prizes for the ‘special’ 

winning photograph everyone started the day 

with a lot of excitement. In the evening, media 

presentations of the day’s highlights were shown 

on a big screen aboard the Mnuw, a converted 

Phinisi schooner from Indonesia that serves as 

the restaurant and bar for the hotel. 

The Dance 

he cultural island tours 

and photo-ops were 

the highlights of the 

afternoon. The photo-op 

sessions included two models 

in traditional dress. The 

models patiently allowed us 

to shoot hundreds of photographs while 

we worked to find the perfect shot. We 

visited a traditional men’s house, stone 

money banks, and beautiful private 

beaches. There are also several WWII 

sites to visit on request. 

Yap is an eco-tourists dream. The 

Yapese culture is based on sustainable 

stewardship of the land and sea. Yap 

has been able to skillfully preserve its 

culture by mixing traditional life values 

with the demands of a modern life. 

Everyone learns traditional crafts, oral 

history, foods, clothing, construction, 

gender-based skills, and dances. 

Dances are hundreds of years old and tell 

stories of events that happened before 

colonization. Village tours are a “not 

to miss activity.” Note, when touring a 

village, not all villagers have adopted a 

Western lifestyle. 

The most distinctive feature of Yap is 

stone money. Stone money (Rai or Fei) is 

the traditional currency of the island. The 

value of the stone money is determined 

by its age, size, beauty, and the hazards, 

including deaths, in bringing the stones 

to the island. Hundreds of these massive 

stone discs are located in the ‘stone 

money banks’ in the villages. 

Because Yap has no solid rock, most of 

the stone money was quarried in Palau, 

an island more than 400 km (250 miles) 

away. The stones were brought to the 

island on bamboo rafts until Captain 

David O’Keefe washed up on Yap in 1871. 

Yap money 

37

Yapese man 

’Keefe (the movie 

His Majesty O’Keefe 

chronicles this time) was 

a copra trader. He could 

not convince the Yapese 

to harvest the coconut until 

he discovered he could get the 

copra, in-trade for bringing the stone 

money to Yap on his ship. 

The U.S. dollar is used today, but stone 

money remains vital to the customs of 

the Yapese. The money is individually 

owned and it still serves for important 

social transactions. 

The dance begins 

Weaving Mats 

Yap is also the home of the Yap 

Traditional Navigation Society. The 

purpose of the society is to preserve 

the art and practice of traditional 

navigation. The navigation system is 

a non-instrument method of openocean 

navigation relying on clues 

using the sun, stars, wind, clouds, seas, 

swells, birds, and fish. These skills, 

imparted orally, are learned by rote 

memorization. In 1976, the sailing of 

Hokule from Tahiti to Hawaii using 

traditional navigation demonstrated 

the hypothesis of intentional two-way 

voyaging throughout Oceania. 

n the last night of MantaFest we all were treated to a photo show of 

all the winners and runners-ups. The Grand Prize was a trip on the 

luxurious Damai liveaboard, home based in Indonesia. Best in Class 

prizes were won in the Compact, DSLR and Video submissions as well 

a 1st, 2nd and 3rd place prizes. I report, I did not win any prizes. I missed 

most of the diving due to a head cold. Happens sometimes! 

Young girl 

Preparing to dance 

If you dream of warm waters, gentle breezes, giant manta rays, stone money, unique island 

culture and learning more about underwater photography while diving with the mantas, 

make a decision to join the fun and festivities of MantaFest 2023. 

MantaFest Photography School and Contest 2023 will be held August 26 through Sept 9. 

For more information, go to www.MantaFest.com. 

Cultural courtesies: Women should cover their thighs when in public areas. Shorts or 

skirts down to the knee, sarongs, jeans, or slacks are acceptable. Men should not wear 

short-shorts. Bathing suits should be worn only at the poolside or on a boat. You must ask 

permission before entering private property or taking photographs of people. 

Waiting to join the dance 

It’s always fun to learn a few words of the local language: 

Greetings: Mogethin, and Thank you: Kammagar. 

Young man 

Getting there: Yap is not difficult to reach from anywhere in the world. 

United Airlines serves Yap twice a week from Guam. 

38 

39

Grand Anse Beach 

Double Exposure 

Story and Photos by Wendy Gunderson 

St. George’s 

When William Cowper wrote, 

“[v]ariety’s the very spice of life, 

that gives it all its flavour,” 

he described his surroundings and 

reflections on life in 18th century England. 

Although hundreds of years have passed since written, Cowper’s 

words came to mind reflecting on a recent visit to the Caribbean 

island of Grenada. Grenada is known as “The Spice Island” for 

the abundance of spices, which are grown, but it is not just the 

spice, which brings this phrase to mind. Grenada offers a variety 

of natural, historical, and cultural attractions for visitors to savor. 

Located at the southern end of the Lesser Antilles in 

the Caribbean island chain, the country of Grenada is 

actually three islands, Grenada, Carriacou, and Petit 

Martinique. The island of Grenada is the largest of the 

three at 135 square miles. Its highest point is Mount 

St. Catherine, peaking at 2,670 feet above sea level, but 

spectacular views can be found at many vantage points 

around the island. 

The capital city of Grenada is St. George’s, known for its 

welcoming port and colorful buildings. Frequented by 

cruise travelers, the port area offers shops with spices, 

chocolate, and local crafts. 

Grand Anse Beach at Sunset 

Spices of Grenada 

St. George’s 

40 

41


Grenada offers 45 beaches, from the calm 

of Grand Anse Beach to the challenging 

surf of Prickly Bay. Grand Anse Beach is 

the jewel of the island, often rated as one of 

the best beaches in the world. 

Bathway Beach 

Waterfalls dot the hilly 

terrain, where you can take 

a dip in the cool clear water. 

Reaching the most remote 

waterfalls requires a hike through 

the rainforest, but many waterfalls 

are accessible with just a short walk 

from the roadway. 

Concord Falls 

Waterfall 

Seagrapes on 

Grand Anse 

Beach 

The island is home to the Mona monkey, which came 

to the island in the 18th century from west Africa. The 

monkeys love to dine on fruit, which is abundant on the 

island. These wild monkeys are accustomed to travelers 

offering treats. Come prepared with a few of the small, 

sweet bananas offered at many roadside stands. Be sure to 

save a few bananas for yourself, as they are more flavorful 

than any you have ever tasted. 

Mona Monkey 

Footprints Along 

Grand Anse 

Beach 

A trip to the islands is not complete without a taste of 

the local rum. River Antoine Rum Distillery has been 

in operation since 1785, and is the oldest functioning 

water-powered distillery in the Caribbean. The watermill 

crushes the sugar cane to begin the process of making the 

rum, a great souvenir for friends and family back home. 

After a stop at River Antoine Rum Distillery, stop at 

nearby Lake Antoine. Lake Antoine is a crater lake, 

formed in the crater of an extinct volcano. The lake was 

formed 12,000 to 15,000 years ago during the final stage 

of volcanic activity on Grenada. The lake is 20 feet above 

sea level and now occupies an area of 16 acres. 

Nutmeg fruit revealing 

nutmeg seed surrounded 

by red mace 

Bathway Beach 


Grenada’s lush landscape is filled with fruit trees and 

flowers. A visit to “The Spice Island” would not be 

complete without visiting local farms for their abundance 

of nutmeg, mace, cacao, sorrel, and much more. 

Chocolate lovers will enjoy a visit to Belmont Estate, a 

17th century plantation. The plantation features a cocoaprocessing 

factory, allowing visitors to learn and taste the 

variety of chocolate products offered. 

Cacao pod 

Fruit Stand 

Molinere Underwater 

Sculpture Park 

For those who prefer their recreation below water, the 

island offers the Molinere Underwater Sculpture Garden, 

where you can snorkel or dive among 75 sculptures 

designed by British sculptor, Jason deCaires Taylor. The 

Molinere Underwater Sculpture Garden was the first of its 

kind when construction commenced in 2006. Many of the 

sculptures are easily visible from the water’s surface. 

Boats Along Grand Anse Beach 

The island offers a variety of attraction and activities, sure 

to suit the tastes of even the most particular traveler. 

42 

43

Tuomotu Archipelago 

Hiva Oa 

Ua Pou 

Aranui 5 on Ua Pou 

Aranui 5 in Puamau Bay, Hiva Oa 

When most people think of visiting 

French Polynesia, the first places 

that come to mind are Tahiti, Moorea 

and Bora Bora and in fact that is 

where the great majority of tourists 

go. However, French Polynesia is 

a vast territory equal in size to the 

44 

United States west of the Mississippi 

yet with a smaller total landmass 

than Rhode Island. There are five 

major archipelagos comprising 

over 130 islands of which the most 

remote are the Marquesas Islands 

almost 900 miles from Tahiti and 

Story and Photos by Dale Dunlop 

over 3,000 miles from the nearest 

continental land mass, Mexico. There 

are just over 9,000 people spread 

over fifteen islands in the Marquesas 

and with absolutely no facilities for 

tourists, they see very few foreign 

visitors in any given year. 

Visiting the MARQUESAS on the Aranui 5 

ur group was 

all booked into 

Premium Suites, which 

were very large with a 

balcony that, unlike those on huge 

cruise ships, was only about thirty 

feet above the water line. One of 

the great pleasures of the trip was 

sitting on the balcony watching 

the flying fish put to flight by the 

passing wake. Being a French ship, 

the meals aboard were exceptional, 

and wine was included for lunch 

and dinner. Other than the captain, 

who was French, the entire crew of 

the Aranui 5 is French Polynesian, 

with many hailing from the 

Marquesas. 

I was fortunate enough to be part 

of the first English speaking group 

to visit the Marquesas in over 

two years on a trip organized by 

Canadian tour company Adventures 

Abroad. We did it aboard the 

Aranui 5, a custom-built passenger/ 

freighter launched in 2015 that 

serves as the lifeline to the outside 

world for the Marquesas islanders. 

For the passengers on this 12- 

day trip, it provides a fascinating 

look into a way of life that is 

almost incomprehensible to most 

westerners. 

The Aranui 5 usually departs 

Papeete, Tahiti twice a month for 

the Marquesas throughout the 

year, but due to Covid, passengers 

were only permitted to come aboard 

starting in April of this year, after a 

two-year hiatus. The ship will hold 

up to 230 passengers, but on our 

voyage, there were only about 160 

of whom most were French, with 

about 30 English speakers and 20 

or so Germans. Each of the three 

languages has their own guides for 

the onshore excursions. 

Premier Suite, Aranui 5 

All told the cruise made stops in eight 

different islands, six in the Marquesas 

and two in the Tuamotu Archipelago. 

On most stops the ship would moor in 

the island harbor and the passengers 

would be taken ashore in a barge. 

At the same time the crew would be 

unloading freight onto other barges and 

after that was done, loading copra or 

other local produce from the islands. It 

was a fascinating process to watch as 

everything from containers, oil drums, a 

new car and even a horse were winched 

onto the barges and taken ashore in an 

incredibly efficient manner. 

On a couple of the islands the ship was 

able to tie directly up to a pier. On the 

Ua Pou 

island of Ua Pou, children from five 

to fifteen used the ship’s mooring 

ropes as a tightrope which they 

walked as far as they could before 

falling into the water below while 

laughing all the time. Even the 

youngest ones could swim like an 

Olympian. 

Whether we came ashore by barge 

or landed directly from the ship, 

one thing was consistent on every 

island we visited. There was always 

a welcoming party waiting with leis, 

playing music, and singing or in 

one case blowing a huge horn. The 

return of tourists to the Marquesas 

was a big deal for both the locals 

and for us. 

Children on the Aranui 5 Rope 

45

Kauehi 

While it is impossible to describe all the highlights of this journey in so few words, 

I will give a brief description of each of the islands visited by the Araniu 5. 

Nuku Hiva 

Aranui 5 Entering Kauehi Atoll 

The Tuamotu Archipelago is a day’s sail 

from Tahiti and the first and last stops 

were on islands in this chain of true atolls. 

Geologically atolls are very old, being the 

remnants of volcanic islands that have 

literally eroded away to nothing but a 

circular bit of land surrounding a shallow 

lagoon. Our first stop was on the tiny atoll 

of Kauehi, which has only 257 residents, 

most of whom were out to greet us. Our 

day here was spent exploring the small 

community of Tearavero and swimming in 

the lagoon. 

Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva 

ext up was Ua Pou, which 

has peaks that rise over 

4,000 feet from the ocean, 

and where we had the chance 

to hike up to a vantage point 

and look down at the Aranui 5, 

anchored far below. This island is 

known for its beautiful flower 

stones that are only found here and in Brazil. 

The islanders make very good sculptures 

from them that are quite reasonably priced. 

The fourth stop was Ua Huka, which is 

entered via a narrow fjord wherein the ship 

is turned completely around with barely a 

few feet of clearance on either side. Here we 

enjoyed a spectacular drive to the village of 

Hokatu where the specialty was high quality 

woodcarvings. We returned to the ship 

via a hike from the Arboretum, which gave 

us a chance to experience the Marquesan 

countryside. 

Ua Huka Coastline 

Hiva Oa 

Flower Stone Carvings, Ua Pou 

Ua Huka 

Walking to the 

Gauguin Gravesite 

on Hiva Oa 

Fatu Hiva 

Hanavave, 

Fatu Hiva 

Nuku Hiva 

Notre Dame Cathedral, Nuku Hiva 

Nuku 

Hiva 

Ceremonial 

Dance under 

the Sacred 

Banyan Tree, 

Nuku Hiva 

The island of Hiva Oa is the lushest of the 

Marquesas with a volcano rising almost 4,000 

feet. Here most of our group opted to take 

a fairly steep hike up to a cemetery where 

Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried. 

From here we made our way to the village 

of Atuona to visit the Gauguin Museum and 

the house where the great painter ended his 

days. The ship then rounded the island to 

the village of Puamau where we visited the 

archaeological site of Te I’Ipona which has an 

exceptional collection of tikis. 

On the small island of Tahuata bone carvings 

were the handicraft specialty. 

The last island in the Marquesas was Fatu 

Hiva where we had stops at the villages of 

Omoa and Hanavave, the latter of which has 

a location as stunningly beautiful as any I 

have ever seen. The intrepid were offered the 

chance to hike the ten miles between the two 

villages. 

Hiva 

Oa 

Tahuata 

Paul Gauguin 

House, Hiva Oa 

Rangiora 

Aranui 5 in Omoa Bay, 

Fatu Hiva 

Fatu Hiva 

On the Beach 

at Rangiroa 

46 

From the Tuamotus it was a full day 

and night at sea before arriving at 

Nuku Hiva the largest of the Marquesas 

Islands and the administrative center of 

the archipelago. It rises precipitously 

out of the sea with jagged peaks that 

are simply amazing. Every island on 

the Marquesas has a Catholic church 

and they are all worth visiting just 

to observe the beautiful carved 

wooden pulpits and Polynesian 

representations of Mary and 

other biblical figures. Notre Dame 

cathedral in the main town of 

Taiohae is exceptional. We then 

boarded 4X4s and transited Taipivai 

Valley, where Herman Melville was 

held captive by cannibals for weeks, 

until escaping and turning his 

adventure into his first bestseller, 

Typee. Arriving at the archaeological 

site of Tohua Kamuihei we were 

treated to a traditional Marquesan 

dance ceremony beneath a huge 

banyan tree once used as a place of 

human sacrifice. 

After another day at sea, we arrived at 

Rangiroa, the third largest atoll in the world. 

Once again swimming and snorkeling were 

on the agenda in the crystal-clear waters as 

was a visit to a black pearl farm. After a final 

night at sea the Aranui 5 docked at Papeete 

and our voyage to the Marquesas was now a 

memory to be cherished for a lifetime. 

47

Thessaloniki 

Halkidiki 

Athens 

Add 

HALKIDIKI 

To Your Greece Travel Plans 

Story and Photos by Rose Palmer 

y home base for 

my first three 

nights was the 

Philoxenia 

Hotel 

located at the 

“top” of the Sithonia peninsula. 

The hotel’s ideal location made it 

easy to explore nearby Mt. Athos 

as well as the many beaches that 

dotted the Sithonia coastline. 

From my home base at the 

Philoxenia Hotel it was easy to 

discover nearby Mt. Athos. Mt. 

Athos has to be one of Greece’s 

most unique UNESCO World 

Heritage sites. 

The Russian monastary on Mt. Athos 

The Philoxenia Hotel 

or most travelers, a 

trip to Greece means a 

history lesson in Athens 

and beach time at one of 

the famous islands like 

Santorini, Mykonos or Naxos. 

But I was dreaming of seeing 

Greece off-the-beaten-path where 

I could easily get both, and I found 

all that and more in the Halkidiki 

peninsula in northern Greece. 

Part of Greece’s Central Macedonia 

region, Halkidiki is a one hour drive 

from Greece’s second largest city, 

Thessaloniki. Getting to Thessaloniki 

is easy – you can choose to drive 

about 6 hours on the well-maintained 

toll highway from Athens, or you can 

take one of the many short flights 

from Athens. Thessaloniki also has 

numerous direct flights from many 

cities across Europe. 

I chose to drive to Halkidiki, which 

also allowed me to make a stop at the 

Leonidas Memorial at Thermopylae. 

This is the location of the famous 

Battle of Thermopylae, which 

occurred 2500 years ago and was the 

basis for the movie “The 300”. Against 

all odds, a small band of Greeks was 

able to hold off a large Persian army 

at the pass here for many days. It 

was only through treachery that 

the Greek fighters were eventually 

overwhelmed, but this defeat 

inspired the rest of the Greek army 

into winning the war against the 

invading Persians. 

Once I reached the peninsula, I 

had five full days to sample the 

varied delights of this region. 

The Leonidas Memorial at Thermopylae 

Geographically, Mother Nature has 

given Halkidiki a coastal profile that 

cannot be missed on a map. The 

large peninsula has three smaller 

individual peninsula fingers that jut 

out into the Aegean so that the whole 

land mass resembles a fat, distorted 

letter E. Though similar in shape 

and size, I found that each of these 

three peninsula fingers – Mt. Athos, 

Sithonia, and Kassandra – had its 

own unique character and culture. 

Unlike its neighbors, this 

peninsula cannot be easily 

visited by the common tourist. 

Mt. Athos is a holy site for the 

Orthodox Christian church and 

like the Vatican in Italy, it is a self 

governing religious entity within 

the Greek republic. The steep 

mountainous terrain is home 

to 20 monasteries representing 

several different countries 

including Greece, Russia, and 

Bulgaria among others. 

The monasteries can only 

be reached by boat and they 

allow only a small number of 

male pilgrims to visit each day. 

Women are not permitted to 

set foot on land there at any 

time. Despite these restrictions 

Mt. Athos is a popular tourist 

destination, and several boat 

companies offer tours to see the 

monasteries from water level. 

Mt. Athos became a holy site 

around 900 AD, however, the 

religious complexes I saw on my 

tour were much more recently 

constructed and were anything 

but modest. 

St. Gregory Monastary on Mt. Athos 

48 

49

One of the preserved mosaics at the 

Olynthos archeological site 

Toroni beach on the Sithonia peninsula 

Orange Beach on the Sithonia peninsula 

nother interesting 

historic sight not 

far from my 

Sithonia home 

base was the 

archeological 

site of Olynthos. Olynthos 

was established in the 7th 

century BC and flourished 

for a few hundred years 

until it was conquered 

and decimated by the 

Macedonian ruler Phillip 

II. Today, the reconstructed 

site demonstrates the 

orderly layout of the 

original city and displays 

some beautiful and wellpreserved 

mosaic floors 

that once adorned the 

homes of the locals. 

Along with a few other 

historical locations, the 

Sithonia peninsula is 

also known for having 

over 100 beaches lining 

the coast. A driving 

tour around Sithonia’s 

perimeter allowed me to 

explore a small fraction of 

this abundance of white 

sand and blue surf. There 

certainly seemed to be 

a beach for every taste. 

There were small, secluded 

beaches with no amenities 

for those that wanted to 

escape. There were beaches 

with beach bars and lounge 

chairs for rent. There were 

beaches with large rocks 

for climbing. And there 

were beaches with long 

stretches of soft sand ideal 

for easy strolling. And 

these were only the few I 

had time to stop at. 

t would have been 

nice to discover 

more of Sithonia’s 

beach scene, but it 

was time to move 

on to the Blue Bay 

Hotel on the Kassandra 

Peninsula. Like its 

neighbor, Kassandra 

also has a selection of 

beaches and resorts for 

every budget. 

The Blue Bay Hotel was 

a resort complex ideally 

situated over the long 

Athytos beach. Sitting 

on a cliff overlooking 

the beautiful Aegean, 

the resort included two 

large pools with plenty 

of sun beds and lounge 

chairs and a full service 

spa. Two restaurants 

offered either buffet or a 

la carte menu options for 

breakfast, lunch, 

and dinner. Also, the 

nearby traditional 

village of Afytos was a 

quick 10-minute walk 

and also presented a 

variety of eateries and 

taverns. 

My explorations of the 

Sithonia peninsula and 

my two days of 

relaxation at the 

Blue Bay Hotel certainly 

gave me a small taste of 

all the delights that the 

Halkidiki peninsula has 

to offer. I now understand 

why this is such a 

popular destination 

with Greeks and other 

Europeans as well. 

The Blue Bay Hotel Halkidiki 

The view from my room at the blue Bay Hotel 

Early morning quiet time at the Blue Bay Hotel 

Kayaking on Koviou beach on the Sithonia peninsula 

An idyllic setting at 

the Paris Beach Bar 

in Sithonia 

Dinner with 

sea views at the 

Blue Bay Hotel 

Psakoudia beach 

on the Sithonia 

peninsula 

50 

51

LEGENDARY BALLPARKS: 

Fenway Park & Wrigley Field 

Story and Photos by Dan Schlossberg 

Fenway Park inside boxes 

Wrigley Field outside sign 

aseball players can 

become free agents, 

but ballparks never do. 

That is why two historic fields have 

become beloved icons not only to 

locals who live nearby, but also to 

out-of-towners who come to set 

foot on the storied turf. 

Fenway Park, the oldest of the 

30 active major-league stadiums, 

and Wrigley Field, just two years 

younger, are synonymous with Old 

School baseball. 

Both look like they were 

shoe-horned into populated 

neighborhoods, with dimensions 

dictated by existing streets. And 

both are palaces with personality, 

places where records are broken 

with surprising frequency. 

Hitters love both. 

At Wrigley, the winds can blow in 

from Lake Michigan one day but 

out the next. Greg Maddux, the 

Hall of Fame pitcher who began 

and ended his career with the 

Chicago Cubs, said he didn’t mind 

pitching there because the prevailing 

winds helped him as often as they 

hurt him. 

Still, the North Side landmark holds 

major-league records for most 

runs scored in a game (49) and the 

second-most (45). 

On August 25, 1922, the Cubs beat 

the Phillies, 26-23. But the Phils 

returned the favor more than a halfcentury 

later, outlasting the home 

team, 23-22 in 10 innings. 

enway is a fearsome place for 

pitchers too. The Red Sox hold 

records for most runs scored 

in an inning, plating 17 against 

Detroit in the seventh inning of a 

game in 1953, and most runs scored in 

the first inning by an American League 

team, with 14 against the Miami Marlins 

during a 25-8 rout on June 27, 2003. In 

that same game, the Sox also dented the 

record book by scoring 10 runs before 

recording their first out of the game – 

and Johnny Damon had three hits in 

the inning, tying a mark previously held 

by Gene Stephens, an earlier Red Sox 

outfielder. 

Thanks to the Green Monster, 

a wall that towers 37 feet over 

left field in Fenway, Boston once 

battered St. Louis Browns pitchers 

for 49 runs in two days. No 

wonder the Browns turned tail 

and ran, becoming the Baltimore 

Orioles. 

Both parks have 

their own beauty 

marks. 

While Fenway features the Green 

Monster in left and the Pesky pole, 

marking the end of the shortest 

right-field foul line in the major 

leagues, Wrigley is known for 

ivy-covered brick walls in the 

outfield and bleacher-like seating 

on apartment rooftops across the 

street. 

Both are on the National Register 

of Historic Places but pitchers 

often find them hysterical. For 

years, the Red Sox refused to rely 

on left-handed pitching because 

they felt right-handed hitters 

would feast on their offerings 

(Mel Parnell and Bill Lee were 

notable exception). 

52 

53

Wrigley Field scoreboard 

Wrigley Ballparks Welcome 

N 

O 

R 

T 

H 

A 

M 

E 

R 

I 

C 

A 

riginally called 

Weeghman Park 

when built for 

Chicago’s Federal League team in 

1914, Wrigley took on its present 

name in 1927 after the team was 

purchased by chewing gum czar 

William Wrigley. It was actually 

the third Wrigley Field, since 

Wrigley also lent his name to 

the team’s spring training field in 

Catalina Island, CA and its minorleague 

stadium in Los Angeles. 

The 1950s TV show Home Run 

Derby was filmed in the L.A. 

stadium, which later housed the 

expansion Los Angeles Angels 

before the team decided to share 

the new Dodger Stadium. 

For a young radio sportscaster 

nicknamed Dutch Reagan, 

the sojourn on Catalina was a 

godsend. An actress named Joy 

Hodges heard his Cubs broadcasts 

for Des Moines radio station 

WHO, arranged a screen test, and 

Ronald Reagan went on to become 

president of the Screen Actors 

Guild, governor of California, and 

president of the United States. 

Green Monster scoreboard 

Eventually, the Cubs closed their 

Catalina camp, moving spring 

training to Arizona, and sold 

its Los Angeles territorial rights 

to the Dodgers. But Chicago’s 

Wrigley Field prevailed. 

Nicknamed “the Friendly 

Confines” by Hall of Fame 

slugger Ernie Banks, Wrigley 

became the most colorful park 

in the National League in more 

ways than one. 

It has a red sign in the front, 

green ivy fronting a brick wall 

that poses a danger to outfielders, 

and an enormous, handoperated, 

olive-colored 

scoreboard topped by flagpoles 

flying pennants in the various 

colors of the 15 National League 

teams. In addition, the team 

hoists a white flag with a blue W 

when the Cubs win or a blue flag 

with a white L when it loses. 

Lovable losers for years, the 

Cubs ended a futility streak of 

108 years in 2016 when they 

won the World Series against the 

Cleveland Indians. 

Championship Flags 

The Red Sox had a long drought 

too: they went 86 years with a world 

championship between 1918 and 

2004. 

Both teams lure fans the 

old-fashioned way: by train. 

Chicago’s Red Line train, which 

is partially elevated and partially 

subway, is the only one in the 

majors that links two big-league 

parks: Wrigley on the North Side 

and U.S. Cellular Field, known to 

traditionalists as Comiskey Park, 

9.5 miles away on the South Side. 

When the Cubs and White Sox meet 

in interleague games, Chicagoans 

show their true colors, though the 

rivalry between the Cubs and St. 

Louis Cardinals seems more intense 

because that tradition has lasted 

longer. 

In Boston, fans from the six New 

England states converge on Boston’s 

T, a network of old-time trolley lines 

that extends deep into the city’s 

suburbs. The Kenmore stop in front 

of the Hotel Commonwealth is just 

a quarter-mile from the gates of 

Fenway. 

he best part of going to 

either ballpark is the 

pre-game party in the 

surrounding streets. That’s especially 

true on Jersey Street, adjacent to 

Fenway. Part baseball bazaar and 

country fair, it features souvenir 

shops selling hats, jerseys, T-shirts, 

yearbooks, baseball cards, and 

assorted trinkets while competing 

for tourist dollars with various food 

vendors, cooking everything from 

hot dogs to sausage and peppers. 

Prices are often better on the street – 

especially for programs published by 

independent sports journalists. 

After games, the pubs take over, not 

only providing beer on hot nights 

but also venues that allow fans to 

second-guess home team managers 

after home team losses. 

Parking is hard to find in both cities, 

with the few spaces accompanied 

by astronomical price-tags, not to 

mention the difficulty of navigating 

through surging post-game crowds 

that are not necessarily sober. 

Capacity at Wrigley Field is 41,649, 

while Fenway holds 37,755 – one of 

the smallest in the majors. 

Until 1988, Wrigley Field lacked 

lights, forcing the Cubs to play home 

games only in daylight. But the 

Wrigleys relented when Major League 

Baseball threatened to move potential 

Cubs playoff games to other cities 

in order to accommodate television 

interests. 

The first night game, deliberately 

scheduled for 8-8-88, was rained 

out before it reached the required 

five innings to make it official. It was 

replayed the next night. 

Both ballparks are surrounded by 

statues of team greats: Ted Williams, 

Carl Yastrzemski, Bobby Doerr, 

Johnny Pesky, and Dom DiMaggio 

at Fenway and Ernie Banks, Billy 

Williams, Ron Santo, Ferguson 

Jenkins, and broadcaster Harry 

Caray at Wrigley. The Cubs also fly 

a banner honoring broadcaster Jack 

Brickhouse. 

To make way for a new sportsbook at 

Wrigley Field, the Cubs announced 

earlier this year they would soon 

be moving their four player statues 

to a new “Statue Row” at Gallagher 

Way, outside the park but still in the 

Wrigleyville neighborhood. 

The Cubs were the first team 

to install an organist, in 1941, 

and still rely on its symphony 

of sounds, while Red Sox fans 

sing Neil Diamond’s Sweet 

Caroline and devour red-hots – 

frankfurters plunked into buns 

that open on the top. 

Wrigley Field fans sing in unison 

too. In a tradition started by the 

late broadcaster Harry Caray, a 

guest announcer leans out of the 

booth during each of Wrigley’s 

81 home games to lead Take Me 

Out to the Ballgame, the 1908 Jack 

Norworth ditty-turned-hit, during 

the seventh-inning stretch. 

Beyond the cacophony of sound 

in both ballyards, the eye candy 

is spectacular – even for fans 

unlucky enough to sit behind 

poles that support the upper 

decks. The vast mass of outfield 

grass suggests an urban oasis 

occupied by hometown heroes in 

bright white uniforms (visitors 

traditionally wear gray). Retired 

numbers of earlier legends – 11 of 

them at Fenway – adorn upperdeck 

rims in Boston but fly from 

flagpoles in Chicago. 

54 

55

Fenway Dugout 

Fenway 

Retired 

Numbers 

Wrigley Field 

entrance 

Wrigley Field 

outside 

he Prudential building 

and other skyscrapers 

twinkle in the twilight 

near the Boston ballpark 

but somehow seem less conspicuous 

than an enormous CITGO sign that 

was an endangered landmark before 

locals rallied to protest its planned 

removal. Fans behind home plate 

in Wrigley can look up to see the 

ancient press box, complete with 

catwalk, or look straight out to see 

mini-bleachers sitting on top of 

narrow apartment buildings across 

the street. 

Owners charge for seating and 

pay the team a percentage of their 

profits. Ballclubs also make money 

by staging concerts and other special 

events when the baseball team goes 

on the road. Bruce Springsteen and 

Paul McCartney are among those 

who’ve played Fenway, for example, 

while Billy Joel has sung to crowds at 

Wrigley on multiple occasions. 

Both parks are beloved icons in 

their respective cities. In fact, the 

Red Sox favor Fenway so much that 

they built a scaled-down replica of 

their ancient park in Fort Myers, FL, 

where they spend six weeks in preseason 

training every spring. Even 

a scaled-down version of the Green 

Monster exists in jetBlue Park. 

The Cubs train in Mesa, AZ but 

obviously have fans everywhere; 

a group called Cubs World has 

monthly meetings at The Villages, an 

enormous Central Florida complex 

for folks 55 and up. 

Not surprisingly, there’s a Red Sox 

fan club there too. 

Wrigley and Fenway have hosted 

World Series a combined 16 times 

but have never appeared at the same 

time. The odds are stacked against 

that happening today because 

baseball’s postseason has morphed 

into a labyrinth of playoffs. But 

sellouts are common because there’s 

nothing quite like enjoying baseball 

in its most historic settings. The Red 

Sox hold the major-league mark of 

794, including both regular-season 

games and playoffs. 

Fenway fans haven’t always been 

fortunate. In 1947, wet paint that 

failed to dry in time forced the Sox 

to pay cleaning bills for thousands 

of spectators who found green paint 

on their Opening Day outfits. The 

event became known in heavily-Irish 

Boston as “the wearing of the green.” 

Three decades later, however, Boston 

pitcher Bill Lee called Fenway Park 

“a shrine.” Newspaper coverage of 

the ballpark’s opening on April 20, 

1912 didn’t use such language. Even 

though Mayor John F. Fitzgerald 

– grandfather of future President 

John F. Kennedy – threw out the 

first pitch, the papers hardly noted 

the event; they were filled with 

continuing coverage of the Titanic 

disaster in maritime Canada. 

The Boston Braves (now denizens 

of Atlanta) used Fenway for the 

1914 World Series and 1915 regular 

season before opening Braves Field 

a mile away. Then the Red Sox used 

the larger National League park for 

their own World Series games in 

1915 and 1916. 

fter trading Babe 

Ruth to the 

Yankees in 1920, 

however, the Bosox began their 

long drought, finding solace in 

producing a parade of batting 

champions aided not only by the 

proximity of The Green Monster to 

home plate but by the smallest foul 

territory in the majors. 

Ted Williams, who once hit an 

astonishing .406, was a huge 

beneficiary. The lone red seat 

in the right-field bleachers at 

Fenway marks the spot where 

Williams hit a 502-foot home 

run on June 9, 1946. Six years 

earlier, when the Sox relocated 

their bullpen enclosure in front 

of those same bleachers, writers 

dubbed it “Williamsburg” because 

it shortened the home run distance 

by 23 feet. 

At Wrigley, sluggers also 

made short work of the short 

dimensions. Sammy Sosa, the only 

man to produce three 60-homer 

seasons, smacked souvenir baseballs 

onto apartment rooftops and 

sometimes through closed windows. 

So did all-or-nothing slugger Dave 

Kingman, who once hit a ball 550 

feet. 

Visiting players thrived too, with 

future Hall of Famer Mike Schmidt 

tying a record with four consecutive 

home runs in an 18-16 game at 

Wrigley on April 17, 1976. Perhaps 

the most famous Wrigley homer of 

all was the alleged “called shot” by 

Babe Ruth of the Yankees in the 1932 

World Series. 

It’s hard to believe Wrigley has the 

longest foul lines in the majors (353 

feet from home to right and 355 feet 

to left) but it compensates with cozy 

power alleys. No batter has dented the 

scoreboard, as Robert Redford did in 

The Natural, but that may change. 

The clock atop the scoreboard has 

kept perfect time since its installation 

in 1941. It has seen many of the 

5,687 consecutive day games played 

at Wrigley before lights were added 

– to the consternation of citizens 

concerned about nighttime noise in 

their working-class neighborhood. 

A compromise solution struck at the 

time still limits the number of night 

games. 

Even during the baseball off-season, 

the venerated ballparks are often 

active. Both, for example, have hosted 

the National Hockey League’s Winter 

Classic, an outdoor game, on New 

Year’s Day. Both have also starred 

in movies, with the Jimmy Fallon 

comedy Fever Pitch one of the best 

baseball films of recent vintage. 

As Hall of Fame team owner Bill 

Veeck once said, “Baseball is a game 

to be savored and not gulped.” He 

should know: he’s the guy who 

planted the ivy at Wrigley Field. 

Former AP sportswriter Dan Schlossberg of Fair Lawn, NJ is the only U.S. journalist to cover travel and baseball exclusively. 

In addition to co-founding NATJA in 1991, he has written or co-authored 40 baseball books. 

By Dan Schlossberg, 10 Ballard Place, Fair Lawn, NJ 07410-3601 Tel. 201-791-3160, Cell 201-923-4326, ballauthor@gmail.com 

56 

57

Ahh, China, land of General Tzo’s Chicken, chop suey, beef & broccoli. First stop after a long flight 

and hungry as, well, you know what. We looked for a great Chinese restaurant to sample how our 

favorite Chinese dishes are made in, well, China. 

Fuggedablutit. Menus are both in Chinese and graphic photos for the outlanders not fluent in 

Mandarin. We searched the pictures and found nothing that looked at all familiar. 

But we were starving and no one behind the counter spoke any English. Dare we take a chance? 

Heck no? We’ve all heard stories about what the Chinese eat (Actually, don’t believe those stories) 

and we were not about to take a chance. Second best to the Chinese counter was something 

familiar. Something we were not afraid to order and let pass our lips…Kentucky Fried Chicken 

with that goateed face staring back at us. Yup. Good old KFC, our first meal in China. 

China: 

Land of Mystery 

In a Modern World 

Story & Photos by Bob Nesoff 

Colonel Sanders KFC 

Kentucky Fried Chicken 

The Chinese flag is ubiquitous throughout the 

country. If it is not clothing flying from a flag pole, it 

is made of flowers or cast in concrete. 

The scenery in 

China is amazing. 

Ships plying the 

rivers often pass 

mountains such 

as these with very 

unusual shapes. 

A luxury riverboat that 

plies the Yangtze catering o 

mostly foreign tourists. The 

average Chinese can’t even 

dream of taking this cruise. 

Flags, flags everywhere. 

This one sits on a hillside to remind passing 

ships that they owe allegiance to China 

s the Corona Virus wanes, 

travel once again is opening up 

and exotic destinations are a 

draw. Wearing a mask in China 

is as common as not wearing one in the 

U.S. But with some commonsense, you’ll 

be safe. Just make sure your vaccines are 

up-to-date. 

It literally took a ping pong tournament 

pushed by President Richard Nixon, to 

open a mysterious continent to the rest of 

the world. And since that time American 

tourists have been flocking to the country. 

The Great Wall of China is the only manmade 

object that can be seen from space 

and the moon. 

Both sound terrific and have been 

accepted facts for decades. The only 

problem is that both are false. 

Although there are photos from space 

that seem to show the Great Wall and 

old school books perpetuate the myth, 

Chinese astronaut Yang Liwei disputed 

that. In fact, about the only man-made 

structures that can be seen from 

space are the Egyptian pyramids...if 

you squint and look hard enough. 

The beginnings of China opening 

its door to the Western world came 

about during the 1971 World Table 

Tennis Tournament in Japan. A 

19-year-old Glen Cowan, member 

of the U.S. team, jumped onto a 

bus carrying the Chinese players 

and the dialogue began. Cowan 

exchanged souvenirs with Zhuang 

Zedong, China’s best player. The 

closed country’s chairman, Mao 

Zedong then invited the Americans 

to an all-expense paid visit to 

China. Nixon, the politician that he 

was, happily took credit for opening 

the door. 

All of that being said, China has 

become a “must see” destination for 

Americans-from Tiananmen Square 

in Beijing to the Great Wall itself, 

more and more Yankees are making 

their way across the world to visit 

this magnificent country. 

We landed in Beijing after the long 

flight, made a bit more comfortable by 

upgrading to “Cattle Class with extra leg 

room.” 

Our tour guide met us as we exited 

customs and immigration, a far less 

tedious process than at American 

airports. 

But beware, China may seem to be a 

free and open country, but it is very 

tightly controlled from its press to its 

government to ordinary people. If you 

have a computer with you, don’t expect 

to be able to access Google or some other 

web services. They are totally blocked in 

the Peoples Republic of China (PRC) lest 

something other than the Party line peeks 

through and “corrupts” the mind of the 

Average Chinese. 

Chinese people on the whole are friendly 

and anxious to welcome you to their 

country. Some will discuss politics 

and parrot the Party line. Others are 

exceptionally open and critical of the 

Communist government. 

ne way to see as much as possible of the country 

on an 18-day tour is through an American 

company that has ties to travel packages in China. 

(Disclaimer - This is an objective piece. We paid for 

this trip on our own and have no obligation to sugar-coat 

anything.) 

We had previously traveled with Uniworld Cruises and 

found them to be absolutely top notch. We booked, along 

with another couple, an 18-day land/cruise package that 

took us from Beijing to Hong Kong. Uniworld provided 

luxury accommodations in the Shangri La hotel chain 

through the country and the Ritz Carlton in Beijing. 

A word of caution - you’ll need a visa from a Chinese 

embassy or consulate. While there are companies that 

will take care of it for you at a hefty fee, if you have 

the time, read the detailed instructions on the form 

(available online) and do it yourself. They nit-pick the 

details, so you must be exact, or you can come back 

several times before being approved. Also, your passport 

must be valid for a minimum of six months from your 

date of arrival. 

Passengers on luxury riverboats sailing 

the Yangtze are often treated to the sight of 

unusual boats on the river. 

Baby pandas at play in the 

Beijing Zoo. They are as 

playful as young children. 

An adult panda munching on a 

snack of bamboo shoots, their 

main diet. While you may see 

pandas in American zoos, the 

Chinese maintain ownership of 

them and any offspring. Beijing may 

demand their return at any time. 

One of the more beautiful and endangered 

animals not often found in the wild any more. 

The snow tiger resides in the Beijing Zoo. 

58 

59

Tiananmen Square, under the ever watchful star of Chairman Mao with the 

assistance of the young soldier, standing stiff as a ramrod. The Square, 

site of the student uprising in 1989 put down ruthlessly by the Communist 

government with the use of troops and tanks, is today quiet and peaceful 

and a main attraction for both Chinese and foreign visitors. 

Crowds of Chinese and foreigners mill about Tiananmen Square 

oblivious to the tense drama of 1989 that took the lives of 

students demanding an end to Communist autocratic rule. 

Entrance to the restored Terra Cotta Army, one of the 

most amazing sites anywhere. 

The Great Wall is a “must climb for any foreign visitor. Here 

two American visitors, Si and Sandy Wodakow pose before 

attempting to challenge the Wall. Si Wodakow later admitted 

that his legs felt like rubber when he was done. 

iananmen Square is arguably the 

heart of Beijing. It’s a huge open 

area that can hold literally tens of 

thousands of people and is often 

used for parades and to impress 

visiting dignitaries. In June of 1984 

nearly one million students began 

protesting for a more open and 

free government. The Communists 

sent in troops and opened fire 

on the demonstrators, killing an 

undetermined number. 

The most poignant image that came 

out of this was that of a student 

staring down a tank as it rolled 

toward him. He stopped the tank, 

but according to some Chinese, 

he simply disappeared without a 

trace after the demonstration. It is 

difficult for a Westerner to stand in 

60 

The traditional rickshaw, pulled by a man running 

through the streets, has been replaced by a driver 

on a bicycle, peddling along the narrow streets. 

the Square and not have that picture in 

mind. Overlooking the Square is a huge 

portrait of Mao seemingly keeping an 

eye on all those in attendance. 

If there ever was any doubt of how 

regimented the society is, the Square 

will eliminate it. Four young Chinese, 

two in military uniform and two 

in civilian clothes, came through, 

marching in lock-step in single file. 

At the curb they halted as the traffic 

light turned red. They stood there, 

arms stiffly at their sides until the light 

turned green. They then marched off, 

again in single file. In the middle of the 

Square was a platform atop which stood 

a soldier in perpetual attention, arms 

at his side, staring straight ahead. This 

observation post was seen at a number 

of locations throughout China, but 

primarily in Beijing. 

Forbidden City booze? Even the well-regimented Chinese need 

to blow off steam once in a while. Foreigners love to being 

home a bottle and show it off, although the Forbidden City,once 

the home of the Emperor, is now open to all comers. 

A major attraction 

for both Chinese 

and tourists is this 

multi-level temple built 

into the ide of 

a mountain. 

Even writers, Bob and Sandy Nesoff give in to the touristy urge and 

pose with some of the Terra Cotta soldiers and horses. 

earby is the entrance 

to the “Forbidden City,” 

once the home of China’s 

emperors. If anyone has seen 

the movie, “The Last Emperor,” you 

will recognize some of the buildings 

in the Forbidden City. Until the 

Communists took over and deposed 

the young emperor, the compound 

was closed to all by a chosen few. 

It was the emperor’s residence, where 

he was born and where he reigned 

and where he was until he became 

little more than the average Chinese 

citizen under the rule of Mao Tze 

Tung. Take the time to visit as it is 

one of the most striking examples of 

Old China. 

While you may not be able to see 

the Great Wall from space, it is an 

amazing thing to behold in person. 

In the middle of the entry square 

before the first steps is the nearly 

ubiquitous soldier on a platform watching 

every move of every person. These young 

soldiers stand ramrod straight for their 

entire shift, only their eyes darting around 

and are stationed at virtually all tourist 

destinations. 

Crowds mill around, taking in every stone 

and the sight of the Wall on its serpentine 

way over the encircling mountains and 

fields. While some visitors made the most 

of the visit and covered long distances, 

others opted to go part way up and 

simply stand and enjoy the historic view. 

Those who did the long walk came back 

complaining that their legs felt as though 

they had turned to rubber. 

Forget seeing China’s sites from outer 

space. The Terra Cotta Army in Xi’an is best 

seen from close up. To see the thousands of 

reconstructed soldiers standing in ranks, 

interspersed by horses and, in some cases 

wagons, will remain with most visitors long 

after their return home. 

The front ranks of the army, more commonly known as the Soldiers of 

Xi’ An, face the untold number of Chinese and foreign visitors to view 

this amazing work of art. All are life-size and were found in millions of 

pieces. They were lovingly pieced together with a specially developed 

glue with no sign of the breakage. Thousands have been pieced 

togeher and perhaps thousands more are being worked on today. 

The army was crafted some 2,000 years 

ago to guard China’s first emperor, 

Ying Zheng, first ruler of the Qin 

(pronounced “Chin”) Dynasty. To date 

some 8,000 have been excavated. More 

are constantly being worked on. 

When they were found by farmers, 

all had not only been buried under 

thousands of years of dust and earth, 

but they had been smashed to bits. The 

Chinese government, with full respect 

and reverence, developed special glue 

and began painstakingly putting each 

one back together, much like a gigantic 

jigsaw puzzle. Anyone walking away 

who was not awestruck has no soul. 

The army is today protected from 

the elements by a giant hangar-like 

room. Walk to the back and you can 

see students and archeologists piecing 

together more soldiers. Nearby is the 

inevitable souvenir shop. Bring home 

miniature soldiers for an experience 

that will be remembered for a lifetime. 

63

China is rightly 

famed for its 

beautiful work 

in jade. That 

encompasses 

figures of all 

sizes…and 

prices. 

Words do not truly 

describe the work of 

art and handicraft that 

went in to making this 

multi-color jade globe. 

ne warning about souvenir purchase in 

China, most visitors like to come home with 

jade. Do not buy any from vendors or small 

shops. Make all jade purchase in either major 

stores or government-run stores. 

While most think that all jade is green, it also is 

mined in white. Most prefer the green as it is by far 

more striking. Our favorite purchases were a green 

dragon and an infinity ball. The ball is carved with 

three balls, two inside the main one, a difficult 

job, requiring the hands of a skilled craftsman. 

This is something akin to the ship in a bottle. The 

laborious job requires the craftsman to cut the 

exterior design and then, bit-by-bit, chip away at 

what becomes the interior balls. 

While this focus has been on a small part of China, 

there is much more to see and enjoy. Politics aside, 

China is a fabulous country with a history that 

goes back for eons. 

Go! Enjoy. 

Chinese entertainers are famed 

worldwide for their acrobatics 

Tea is an 

important 

part of 

Chinese 

drinks. Often, 

especially 

for honored 

guests, a Tea 

Ceremony 

is performed 

before the 

cup is lifted 

for a drink. 

Hong Kong is a 

modern and busy city. 

Seen from the adjacent 

mountain top, the highrise 

buildings hold not 

only residences, but also 

the companies fueling 

its robust economy. It 

is, today, in an awkward 

situation. When the British 

left the city, the agreement 

with the Chinese was 

that the city would be a 

semi-autonomous entity. 

The Beijing government 

appoints the governor 

and recently has been 

attempting inroads 

against that agreement 

in an effort to take 

fullcontrol. 

Don’t even ask how much this beautiful 

jade dragon cost. 

Wherever 

Chinese or 

foreign visitors 

are, you’ll see 

soldiers frozen 

in a pose of 

attention. They 

seem to be 

staring directly 

ahead, but 

don’t be fooled 

as they can see 

everything. 

The Chinese have been amongst the most tolerant of 

Jewish residents for well over a century. Some of the 

few synagogues have been designated as “National 

Monuments” and are guarded by caretakers. This 

synagogue in Hong Kong has been active-and still issince 

very early last century. 

Not the 

same bull 

as resides 

in New 

York’s Wall 

Street, but a 

pretty close 

resemblance. 

Maybe a 

relative. 

62 

Dragons 

and 

gargoyals 

protect 

the 

entrances 

to China’s 

many 

temples 

and 

ancient 

sites. 

The Chinese are a very spiritual people, a trait 

that even Communism could not destroy. The sign 

reflects their feelings of peace, harmony and purity. 

These signs are seen throughout the country. 

Unfortunately too many outsiders 

still picture China as just this side 

of a 3rd World nation. While remote 

areas are still lagging well behind 

modern amenities, nothing could 

be further from the truth. The cities, 

especially Beijing, are as modern as 

any in the West. The national airline, 

Cathay Dragon, is as safe and 

modern as America’s United Airlines. 

Chinese touring their 

country who feel the need 

to relieve themselves will 

find this accommodation. 

Western tourists called it a 

“Squatatorium.” A woman is 

on hand to clean it after each 

use. Some western women 

eschewed using these unless 

they were in dire need. 

The Chinese call this 

the “Western Bathroom,” 

and they even provide 

accommodations for either 

children or very short people. 

63

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TravelWorld International Magazine Summer 2022

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