Adventure 232
Winter issue of Adventure magazine
Winter issue of Adventure magazine
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adventure<br />
where actions speak louder than words<br />
ISSUE <strong>232</strong><br />
JUN/JUL 2022<br />
NZ $10.90 incl. GST<br />
winter<br />
issue
Available Available from from leading leading retailers: retailers:<br />
Auckland: Auckland: Snowcentre<br />
Taupo: Taupo: Gordons Gordons<br />
Wellington: Gordons Gordons<br />
Canterbury: Gnomes Gnomes<br />
Wanaka: Wanaka: MT Outdoors MT Outdoors<br />
Queenstown: Small Small Planet Planet<br />
Dunedin: Dunedin: Beggs Beggs Ski Shop Ski Shop<br />
Distributed by Outfitters by Outfitters<br />
0800 0800 021 021 732 732<br />
www.black-crows.nz<br />
www.black-crows.nz
The media sucks!<br />
I clearly remember as a young teenager playing rugby league and<br />
I knew that we had two boys in the team that were over age and<br />
should not be playing. Every win was tainted. What was harder<br />
than knowing that you were not really winning fairly was knowing<br />
that your team, the guys you played for, were not someone you<br />
could be proud of and not a team I wanted to belong too.<br />
I feel the same way now about the media.<br />
The media has always been a bit like that. Historically whatever<br />
sold newspapers, was pushed to the front; not just current news<br />
but outrageous news, twisted headlines, the girl in a bikini on<br />
page three, that sort of approach. Then came along the women's<br />
weekly’s, showing images of movie stars on their day off to get<br />
beer-belly shots, or the no-makeup shots. Those tabloids that<br />
chased Princess Diana, hunting for a gossip shot, (that's a whole<br />
other editorial!).<br />
Move to the last few years, the news media has moved more<br />
and more online. As we all have struggled with covid, the media<br />
has not done its reputation any good. Whenever there is an<br />
opportunity to over sensationalise a covid issue they have<br />
leveraged people’s fear and worry to gain clicks – clicks, not to a<br />
news feature based on fact or even entertainment but feeding on<br />
fear and uncertainty just to get clicks.<br />
As we go to print Ruapehu has been making a few rumbling<br />
noises and the media has come out with 'Likelihood of eruption<br />
has certainly increased', ‘Mt Ruapehu tremors highest in nine<br />
years’ or ‘Mt Ruapehu has the strongest tremor in 20 years’<br />
all with underlying rhetoric of the White Island tradegy. One<br />
website, with a misleading heading, pushed doom and disaster<br />
for the winter ski season. Then used a video of a professional<br />
volcanologist discussing the recent activity. If you listen to the<br />
expert, he says there is nothing to worry about, it is a usual cycle<br />
for this time of year, be aware but carry on as normal.<br />
As <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine we wrote to the mainstream media and<br />
asked them to stop ramping up a story that had no base in truth<br />
because of the impact it would have on the livelihood of those<br />
who need the mountain to be fully open this year.<br />
Ruapehu has now started to fall out of the media clickbait limelight<br />
(the clicks must have started to fall off) and covid seems to be<br />
less of an issue. So the media has now started to hypothesise<br />
that there will be a massive spike in Covid numbers this winter<br />
and on top of that, we are about to be flooded with the Monkey<br />
Pox. All this just to set off our Covid alarm bell and get us clicking<br />
again.<br />
Scaremongering to create clickbait, to create revenue, is<br />
embarrassing for any of us in the media. It has become its own<br />
nasty pandemic. A pandemic to which there is no vaccine, so I<br />
guess the only cure is awareness. Don’t follow the negative hype;<br />
focus on the fun, the good, the right and the true. Winter is coming<br />
and rather than face it with Covid and Monkey Pox concerns we<br />
should be planning for an amazing winter season. This issue of<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> will be low on the effects of Monkey Pox and high on<br />
how much fun winter can be.<br />
Let your concerns be about how often you can get to the<br />
mountain and not led by some clickbait incentive pulling at your<br />
fear strings.<br />
From the staff at <strong>Adventure</strong> enjoy winter<br />
Steve Dickinson - Editor<br />
your <strong>Adventure</strong> starts with Us<br />
23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz
page 10<br />
Image by Alpine Guides Image by Eric Skilling<br />
Image by Zhi Yuen<br />
page 22<br />
page 46<br />
#<strong>232</strong><br />
10//A Winter's Dream<br />
Hiking Ruapehu<br />
20//Nim Purja<br />
Breaking records<br />
contents<br />
22//Nelson Lakes<br />
Lake Angelus, Sabine and Speargrass Huts<br />
28//Georgia<br />
A little known treasure<br />
34//Suffrage and Growth<br />
An accidental romance<br />
42//Winter Fishing<br />
They still have to eat<br />
48//Winter Mackenzie<br />
Standout moments<br />
55//Mindfulness<br />
The art of paying attention<br />
76//<strong>Adventure</strong> Travel<br />
Fiji | Niue | Tahiti | Rarotonga | Vanuatu<br />
plus<br />
62. gear guides<br />
94. active adventure<br />
FOLLOW US ON<br />
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www.adventuremagazine.co.nz<br />
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JOIN THE CONVERSATION<br />
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BEHIND THE COVER<br />
Nirmal “Nims” Purja is seen on top of Mount Everest in Nepal on<br />
May 15, 2022. Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more<br />
incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer became<br />
the first person to summit three higher 8,000m peaks – Everest,<br />
Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse - in just under nine days and do the<br />
Everest to Lhotse traverse in 26 hours - both without oxygen. For<br />
the full story see page 20.<br />
Photographer by: Pemba Sherpa / Red Bull Content Pool<br />
SEXY AF<br />
A tasting team member dropped off a selection of Sexy AF alcohol<br />
free spirit products for a cocktail order. An intriguing product made<br />
from vegetable glycerin (perhaps another name for sugar), some<br />
have been awarded double gold at the World Spirit Competition.<br />
A striking label coupled with catchy names, the Friski whiski,<br />
AperTease, and Amar-oh combo really did taste like a cocktail with<br />
a reasonable mouthfeel for a non alcoholic drink. Promoting sober<br />
curious and mindful drinkers this product has certainly caught<br />
our attention. Mixed with some citrus, this easy going serve was<br />
smooth and delicious.<br />
For an equal parts serve<br />
1 jigger (22.5mls) AperTease @sexyafspirits<br />
1 jigger Friski Whiski<br />
1 jigger Amar-oh<br />
1 jigger freshly squeezed mandarin juice<br />
Juice of half a lime<br />
Shake with ice, double sieve, and garnish with mandarin<br />
segments.<br />
Follow @cocktailontherock | www.cocktailontherock.co.nz<br />
Find your AF products at www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz/<br />
EDITOR & ADVERTISING MANAGER<br />
Steve Dickinson<br />
Mob: 027 577 5014<br />
steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
Lynne Dickinson<br />
design@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
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PUBLISHERS<br />
NZ <strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine is published six<br />
times a year by:<br />
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P.O.Box 562<br />
Whangaparaoa, New Zealand<br />
Ph: 0275775014<br />
Email: steve@pacificmedia.co.nz<br />
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08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
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CENTRAL<br />
PLATEAU<br />
*<br />
A WINTER’S DREAM:<br />
COOL HIKES IN<br />
RUAPEHU<br />
Words by Adrift.co.nz Images by Zhi Yuen<br />
Just because its winter doesn’t mean<br />
you can’t go out and play. Hiking boots<br />
on and all rugged up in cosy woollen<br />
layers, there’s nothing like a winter’s<br />
day out exploring the great outdoors.<br />
With Tongariro National Park at your<br />
doorstep and the iconic triple peaks<br />
of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt<br />
Ngāuruhoe as your backdrop, head<br />
to Ruapehu to discover a network of<br />
world-class walking and hiking tracks<br />
made for intrepid explorers.<br />
10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
12//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
"With Tongariro National Park<br />
at your doorstep and the iconic<br />
triple peaks of Mt Ruapehu, Mt<br />
Tongariro and Mt Ngāuruhoe as<br />
your backdrop, head to Ruapehu to<br />
discover a network of world-class<br />
walking and hiking tracks made for<br />
intrepid explorers."<br />
Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />
When winter arrives, the otherworldly landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing<br />
are transformed to something beyond your wildest dreams. Renowned as one of the<br />
best one day hikes in the world, taking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during winter<br />
is a unique wilderness adventure best experienced with a guide. The elements are<br />
in full force with ice, snow, and alpine conditions to reckon with, so it is essential to<br />
go a professional guide. Additional preparation, equipment, specialised navigation,<br />
and high-level backcountry skills are essential to enjoy this winter expedition safely.<br />
Even if you’ve already done the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during the summer months,<br />
it’s another level of adventure during winter so book with a local guide to be able to<br />
rediscover this iconic hike to the fullest.<br />
Waitonga Falls<br />
A favourite with locals, Waitonga Falls is Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfalls<br />
at 39 metres high. With access from Ohakune Mountain Road, this 4 km easy and<br />
well-formed return track offers incredible views of Mt Ruapehu with majestic panorama<br />
from the Rotokawa pools alpine wetland area. The perfect spot to pause, reflect and<br />
take in natural wonders of this UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of geological and<br />
cultural significance.<br />
Tawhai Falls<br />
Short, sweet and a must-do for Lord of the Rings fans, the beautiful cascades of<br />
Tawhai Falls is an easy, 20-minute short walk easily accessible from roadside along<br />
State Highway 48 nearby National Park Village. This family friendly walk delivers<br />
gorgeous views from the top of the falls along with an easy to follow track to the<br />
bottom of the falls.<br />
Mounds Walk<br />
Come sundown, the quick and easy Mounds Walk is a great way to watch the sun go<br />
down as golden hues sweep over this unique landscape. Just a few minutes’ drive<br />
from National Park Village off of State Highway 48, the formed mounds is a stark<br />
reminder of the unique natural environment and geological wonders of NZ’s oldest<br />
National Park.<br />
Taranaki Falls<br />
Situated in the heart of Tongariro National Park, the Taranaki Falls Track is a 6 km<br />
loop, well-formed track that’s regarded as one of best short walks in the area - even<br />
during the winter months. Traverse dramatic volcanic terrain to the stunning Taranaki<br />
Falls as its alpine waters cascade 20 metres down to picturesque pools. On a clear<br />
day take in the spectacular views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Tongariro as you journey<br />
through alpine shrublands, mountain beech forest and volcanic soils.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//13
14//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
Tama Lakes<br />
Popular year-round, the stunning Tama Lakes walk is a<br />
great alternative to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing that is<br />
phenomenal to experience during the winter season. This<br />
17.6 km track is an extension of the popular Taranaki<br />
Falls Track full of diverse terrain ranging from undulating<br />
tussock country, alpine lakes, and ancient lava flows.<br />
Regarded as an advanced tramping track, going guided<br />
is definitely the way to go for an unforgettable winter<br />
expedition to the Tama Lakes.<br />
Discover four seasons of incredible hikes and walks at<br />
www.visitruapehu.com
Terrace Restaurant & Bar Open daily<br />
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Ngauruhoe Place | Whakapapa Village, SH 48<br />
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Free wifi & parking | From NZD $599<br />
17 Carroll Street, National Park 3948<br />
info@plateaulodge.co.nz | +64 7 8922993<br />
www.plateaulodge.co.nz
RIDE IN<br />
RUAPEHU<br />
Ride to your own rhythm to take in the scale and serenity of Ruapehu’s Greater<br />
Outdoors.<br />
Magnificent mountain peaks, ancient rainforests, and forgotten worlds await,<br />
with spectacular suspension bridges and viaducts, historic relics and secret<br />
waterfalls to discover.<br />
Home to two Great Rides and options for all abilities, there’s plenty of<br />
two-wheeled adventure to be had in Ruapehu.<br />
VISITRUAPEHU.COM
RIDING RUAPEHU<br />
ADVENTURE THROUGH TIME AND SPECTACULAR SCENERY ON RUAPEHU’S GREAT RIDES<br />
From the UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of<br />
Tongariro National Park to the waterways and byways of<br />
Whanganui National Park, wind your way through alpine<br />
villages, mountain towns and historic relics to discover<br />
the best of Ruapehu by bike.<br />
Home to the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea - Ngā<br />
AraTūhono, two of New Zealand’s Great Rides. Ruapehu<br />
offers over 400 km of epic trails of local gems and worldclass<br />
rides to discover.<br />
The Timber Trail<br />
Distance: 85km<br />
Grade: 2-3<br />
The Timber Trail follows the path of old logging roads,<br />
and the historic bush tramlines through Pureora Forest<br />
Park. A testament to forward thinking environmentalists<br />
who protested against native logging in 1978, this area<br />
is one of the last remaining intact podocarp forests in<br />
New Zealand. Highlights of the trail include spectacular<br />
suspension bridges, giant ancient trees and fascinating<br />
relics from the area’s timber milling history. There’s also<br />
the Ongarue Spiral, an engineering marvel and great<br />
fun to ride over and then down through a tunnel under<br />
the track. The trail is normally ridden over two days with<br />
memorable accommodation available at Piropiro, the<br />
midway point. There are two lodges, a campsite, and<br />
fully serviced glamping here, nestled into a remote bush<br />
setting. Tour operators offer packages with shuttles and<br />
accommodation to make the planning easy.<br />
Ohakune Old Coach Road<br />
Distance: 15km<br />
Grade: 3<br />
The Ohakune Old Coach Road follows the route of the<br />
old dray road between Ohakune and Horopito. This day<br />
ride is full of surprises and incredibly beautiful, taking in<br />
some magnificent railway heritage including two striking<br />
viaducts and a spooky old tunnel. It offers some fantastic<br />
views over the volcanic plateau of Tongariro National<br />
Park, and some spectacular sections regenerating native<br />
18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
Main image: Spectacular scenery on the Timber Trail<br />
Above top to bottom: Mountain Biking The Marton Sash and Door Trail / Ohakune Old Coach Road<br />
bush. You can ride the trail in both directions as an out<br />
and back, or take a shuttle to ride the trail in a mostly<br />
downhill direction from Horopito back to Ohakune, where<br />
you’ll find plenty of options to enjoy some mountain village<br />
hospitality after your ride.<br />
Mangapurua Track (Bridge to Nowhere)<br />
Distance: 36km<br />
Grade: 3*<br />
The Mangapurua Track is a classic back country ride, with<br />
a spectacular finale. The trail starts deep in Ruatiti Valley<br />
with a steady climb over a saddle and into the remote<br />
Mangapurua Valley, a long-abandoned farming settlement<br />
surrounded by bush-clad hills and dramatic bluffs.<br />
The ride and the riveting story that goes along with it end<br />
at the Bridge to Nowhere, a graceful concrete monument<br />
to the settlers’ broken dreams.<br />
Then on down to the Whanganui River. When the ride<br />
is over, your next adventure begins! Load your bikes<br />
onto the back of a jet boat for an invigorating ride out to<br />
Pipiriki. You’ll need to book your transport in advance, and<br />
local tour operators offer packages with shuttles and jet<br />
boat ride.*In or after significant rain, may ride as a grade<br />
4. Check track status on the Official Mountains To Sea<br />
website before riding.<br />
Mountains to Sea - Ngā Ara Tūhono<br />
Ohakune Old Coach Road and the Mangapurua are part<br />
of the Mountains to Sea Ngā Ara Tūhono Great Ride. If<br />
you’re looking for a varied multi-day ride from the top of<br />
Turoa ski field right to the Tasman Sea at Whanganui,<br />
there are a couple of options to choose from, the Classic<br />
Experience, or the <strong>Adventure</strong> Route, or sections of the<br />
track make great day rides. Have a look at Fishers Track,<br />
Kaiwhakauka and Marton Sah and Door.<br />
For more info to plan your trip visit:<br />
www.visitruapehu.com. You can also download<br />
ride maps from the official websites, Timber Trail and<br />
Mountains to Sea.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//19
NIM PURJA:<br />
BREAKING RECORDS<br />
NIMS SUMMITS EVEREST, LHOTSE AND KANCHENJUNGA IN JUST UNDER NINE DAYS.<br />
Images and text by Red Bull<br />
Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more<br />
incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer<br />
became the first person to summit three peaks higher<br />
than 8,000m – Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse -<br />
in just under nine days and do the Everest to Lhotse<br />
traverse in 26 hours - both without supplementary<br />
oxygen.<br />
The Nepal-born naturalised British climber is well<br />
known for summitting all 14 of the world's 8,000m<br />
peaks in seven months and he also made history on<br />
January 16, 2021, when the former Gurkha and British<br />
Special Forces operative and his team became the first<br />
mountaineers to summit K2 in winter.<br />
After receiving worldwide acclaim for those feats, Purja<br />
embarked on a new adventure in early May with his<br />
Elite Exped team as they tackled the Himalayan peaks<br />
of Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga.<br />
Purja and his team went from Base Camp to Camp<br />
2 on May 5, and then on May 6 started the push -<br />
with a few hours break at Camp 3 - to the 8,586m<br />
Kanchenjunga peak which they summited at 10.50am<br />
on May 7.<br />
They switched over to the Everest Base Camp on May<br />
10 and departed at 3am on May 11 for Camp 2 where<br />
they acclimatised for two days before heading up to<br />
Camp 3 on May 13 ahead of the final push.<br />
They left the South Col at 11pm on May 14 and, in a<br />
very quick time of just nine hours, they summitted the<br />
world's most famous peak of 8,849m at 8am on May<br />
15 to complete the second leg of the feat.<br />
Lhotse was the final peak and on May 16, the team left<br />
the South Col around 3.30am and reached the 8,516m<br />
summit around 10am with Purja the first to summit<br />
three peaks higher than 8,000m – Everest, Lhotse and<br />
Kanchenjunga - without oxygen in an incredible time of<br />
just eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes - a new world<br />
record.<br />
The 38-year-old, who took full advantage of this<br />
season's good Everest summit window, revealed: "As I<br />
was focused on guiding and helping our team achieve<br />
their new possible, it was all in a chilled manner. My<br />
mission has always been to inspire people and to<br />
show what human beings are capable of, that's what<br />
gives me the energy and excitement – showing people<br />
that nothing is impossible. I'm trailblazing and I want<br />
to inspire everyone to know they can achieve their<br />
dreams too."<br />
He also did the Everest to Lhotse traverse without<br />
supplementary oxygen in 26 hours to claim another<br />
world record despite getting Khumbu cough before<br />
Kanchenjunga due to low humidity and high-altitude<br />
temperatures.<br />
He added: "I was leading and guiding without oxygen<br />
– I was checking in and making sure everyone was<br />
ok, fed and rested and strong. And for me when I do a<br />
summit push it is from Base Camp to the summit and<br />
then from the summit back to Base Camp. It has to be<br />
authentic – no helicopter lifts back to Base Camp –<br />
unless the summit is void or there's an emergency or<br />
rescue."<br />
20//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//21
NELSON<br />
LAKES<br />
*<br />
FOUR DAYS IN<br />
NELSON LAKES<br />
LAKE ANGELUS, SABINE AND SPEARGRASS HUTS<br />
By Eric Skilling<br />
“Lake Angelus is my favourite place in the world” he<br />
said as we discussed the trip ahead. Okay, he was born<br />
in the area so maybe I could excuse a bit of bias, but<br />
that was a bold claim from someone who has visited<br />
some amazing places all over the globe. Judging by the<br />
number of photos I brought back, maybe he was right.<br />
My biggest encouragement was when he also said he<br />
wasn’t feeling that fit. Time to kick some butt, or so I<br />
thought. Alas, a lot can happen in four days, and nature<br />
would find a way of bringing me humbly back to earth by<br />
doing what nature does.<br />
DAY 1: Lake Angelus. 12km in 6 hours. As so often<br />
happens in NZ, you step out of the car park and head<br />
straight up a hill. In this case a 650metre climb for the<br />
first hour-and-a-half. The upside is there are plenty of<br />
switchbacks, views of Lake Rotoiti, and the forest is full<br />
of the welcoming calls of bellbirds. It wasn’t long before<br />
I was back in the groove and feeling grateful to be out<br />
tramping in such epic country.<br />
The landscape changed abruptly as we left the bush line<br />
and started the poled route along Roberts Ridge. The<br />
track wound its way ahead through alpine scrub before<br />
disappearing into swirling mist. This was late February,<br />
and we were still warm after the climb, so we by-passed<br />
the shelter and kept going until we came across Martin.<br />
22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
On top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus valley.<br />
Martin is probably not his real name, but the<br />
name seems to suit him. Martin is the name<br />
we gave to the larger-than-life-sized wooden<br />
model that looms out of the mist with hand<br />
raised. He warned us that the track ahead<br />
was “difficult, rocky and exposed” and “it<br />
was still a long way to the hut!”. He urged<br />
us to TURN BACK! If we were tired or cold.<br />
Dramatic stuff. I gave Martin a cuddle and we<br />
continued onward.<br />
We met a couple returning from Lake Angelus<br />
who told us the sky would clear once we<br />
reached Flagtop at 1650m, and we would get<br />
great views of Julius Summit (1794m). Well,<br />
it didn’t, and we didn’t. But a few hours later<br />
we did emerge out of the cloud and got to<br />
see the full jagged ridge of the Julius Peak,<br />
its multicoloured slopes falling steeply into<br />
the Speargrass River valley. To the northwest<br />
we could just make out what could have been<br />
the Hope Range and Mt Owen.<br />
A few hours later and we were standing on<br />
top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus<br />
valley. This is one of those moments that<br />
is hard to describe. The scene is unique.<br />
Several hundred metres below the two lakes<br />
stand out starkly, their colours ranging from<br />
a deep blue to almost black, edged with<br />
Saying G'day to Martin<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//23
Sunrise at Lake Angeles, photographs don’t capture the feeling of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the alpine vegetation,<br />
and the sound of the Hukere stream making its way from the lake.<br />
turquoise and greens. Above them the valley<br />
is ringed by a serrated line of weathered peaks,<br />
with multiple scree slopes reaching down to the<br />
encroaching alpine tussock that surrounds the<br />
lakes.<br />
Angelus hut itself, stands nicely placed on the edge<br />
of the lake looking very fragile and out of place in<br />
this wild landscape.<br />
Once at the hut there was plenty of time for a swim,<br />
a cup of hot sweet coffee and to share stories and<br />
banter with others in the hut. Lake Angelus seems<br />
to be a mecca for couples. Andrea and Patrick from<br />
Nelson, Beth and Mulock from Dunedin, Gabriela<br />
and Leandro from South America. I had to settle for<br />
my mate Don.<br />
Next day I was up in time to catch the sunrise, but<br />
photographs don’t allow you to share the feeling<br />
of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the<br />
alpine vegetation, and the sound of the Hukere<br />
stream making its way from the lake. When the<br />
sun eventually reached over the peaks to the east,<br />
light spread over the glacial valley, still filled with a<br />
lumpy blanket of swirling cloud. Special. Then the<br />
breeze dropped and the surface of Lake Angelus<br />
became a mirror, creating almost perfect reflections<br />
of the scree slopes and skyline above it.<br />
Day 2: Sabine hut, Lake Rotoroa. 6.8km in 6<br />
hours. Note the warning – expect an average<br />
pace of 1.1km an hour. DOC describes the track as<br />
“steep” in that charming, understated kiwi way.<br />
A perfect day for tramping. We scrambled and<br />
boulder hopped along the ridgeline, with expansive<br />
views from Mt Angelus, the Muntz and Braeburn<br />
ranges, and up Sabine River valley to Mt Franklin<br />
(2340 metres). Our lunch stop was just above<br />
the bushline, overlooking the full length of Lake<br />
Rotoroa and the promise of a refreshing swim.<br />
It was a welcome relief to walk into the cool cover<br />
of the beech trees after spending most of the tramp<br />
walking on rock and gravel with plenty of boulder<br />
hopping. Don’t get me wrong, the panoramas from<br />
the exposed tops are awe-inspiring, but it was bliss<br />
to step onto the bush track, cushioned by layers of<br />
fine beech tree leaves. Piwakaka skipped around<br />
us, and bellbirds greeted us with their inimitable<br />
song. Three hours to go.<br />
An hour later the path had become quite steep. A<br />
couple of wasps had miraculously snuck into my<br />
boots, settled on each of my big toes, and would<br />
occasionally give me a sting if I made any decent<br />
sized downward step.<br />
Then we reached “The Sign”. These large signs<br />
with their contour profiles and “You are Here”<br />
points are rare but usually very welcome. They<br />
impart guidance, direction, hope and anticipation.<br />
Sometimes they lie. This specific one was<br />
colourfully decorated with a profile telling us that we<br />
had an hour to go. That is a lie. Clearly whomever<br />
put up the sign did a “she’ll be right” and put it up at<br />
the wrong end of the trail. Soon afterward the steep<br />
track became even steeper. Handholds became<br />
commonplace.<br />
An hour later the lake looked no closer. By now<br />
another 10 wasps had made their way into my<br />
boots and settled onto a toe each. Almost every<br />
foot-plant was announced with a stab of pain to<br />
each toe. I was doing mini traverses wherever<br />
possible. Don meanwhile, seemed to be enjoying<br />
himself as he waited every 100m or so for me to<br />
catch up. I might be better at going uphill, but his<br />
forte was the downhills.
Top: Andrea and Patrick nearing the last ridge<br />
Above: 12 Heading along Cedric Ridge with<br />
Mt Franklin in the distance<br />
We stopped and I took of my boots and socks and rearranged<br />
everything. I enjoyed about 100 metres of relative comfort before the<br />
wasps repositioned themselves on my toes.<br />
Another hour later I was considering taking my boots off and walking<br />
bare foot when I heard voices echoing off the lake. We must be<br />
close. Going bootless on this terrain was a dumb idea so I turned and<br />
scrambled down backwards. The humiliation was complete.<br />
Ten minutes later I hobbled up to the hut and took off my boots, amazed<br />
that they had not melted by the flames from my blazing toes. A painful<br />
lesson in cutting toenails just before leaving on these adventures.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//25
Heading to Speargrass hut<br />
Day 3 and 4: Speargrass Hut and Mt Robert car park.<br />
18Km 9 hours. Don and I had set aside two days to<br />
complete the round trip from Sabine to the car park. It<br />
turned out to be a brilliant ideas for so many reasons.<br />
Not least were the weather gods continuing to smile down<br />
on us. It also turned a single tough day into one moderate<br />
and then another easy day to finish the trip.<br />
2 km<br />
Leaflet (https://leafletjs.com) | NZ Topo Map (/) images sourced from LINZ (https://www.linz.govt.nz/) - Crown Copyright Reserved<br />
Top to bottom: Speargrass hut<br />
The route we took<br />
Can't go past Backcountry Cuisine and Jetboil<br />
+<br />
−<br />
<br />
50<br />
250<br />
Starting alongside the lake the track veers into the lush<br />
beech forest which is traversed by small streams and a<br />
couple of bridged rivers. The forest floor around us was<br />
covered in thick layers of lichen, ferns and bright green<br />
mosses. The clear streams made it mostly a waste of time<br />
carrying water.<br />
We also attracted the attention of some of the most<br />
confident piwakawaka and robins you will meet. During<br />
a stop a robin brazenly hopped down onto our packs,<br />
skipped down to our boots and then hopped onto our legs<br />
and picked seeds off our gaiters and socks. Priceless.<br />
Speargrass Hut is another of the many stunningly-well<br />
placed wilderness huts we have the freedom to visit.<br />
Nestled in a couple of hectares of sweeping speargrass<br />
and tussock, shielded on three sides by massive ridges<br />
including Julius Peak, and facing down the heavily<br />
forested river valley. Relatively new, the hut is also double<br />
glazed and more importantly, empty of people.<br />
The perfect place to reflect and enjoy a final night away<br />
from civilisation.<br />
Midday next day, after a cleansing dip into Lake Rotoiti,<br />
and an equally cleansing ale at St Arnaud, we found<br />
ourselves planning a return trip up Sabine Valley to the<br />
Blue Lake.<br />
Thanks to Don for a choosing a stunning itinerary. And to<br />
the folk managing those predator traps.<br />
I chose to use Backcountry Cuisine, Jetboil, Keen and<br />
Macpac products.<br />
26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
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GEORGIA<br />
*<br />
GEORGIA:<br />
A LITTLE KNOWN TREASURE<br />
Words and images by Pol Tarrés Martrat<br />
When this story landed on our desk, I had to admit<br />
that I had no idea where Georgia (the country) was<br />
located, so I did a wee Google search. Turns out<br />
that Georgia is at intersection between Eastern<br />
Europe and Western Asia, bound on the west by<br />
the Black Sea and to the north and east by Russia<br />
and on its southern border lies Turkey, Armenia and<br />
Azerbaijan.<br />
Georgia small and mountainous, covering an area<br />
of only 67.900 km2. The Likhi Range divides the<br />
country into eastern and western halves whereas<br />
the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range forms the<br />
northern border and the Lesser Caucasus Mountains<br />
run along the southern reaches, so you can see it<br />
would be a great place for some snow sports.<br />
Pol Tarrés Martrat shares his experiences visiting<br />
this little known treasure that is Georgia from his<br />
home base in Spain.<br />
28//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />
The remote untouched beauty that is Georgia
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//29
Top: Playing around on the catski<br />
Left to right: Goderdzi resort / Cat team / Lone lines amongst the pines<br />
Destination Goderdzi: Southern Georgia<br />
Goderdzi Ski Resort is situated at an<br />
elevation of 1,724m rising to 2,364m, there<br />
are over 8km of slopes available and you<br />
can find endless freeride lines outside of<br />
the slopes. It had been snowing all night<br />
and found plenty of pow, the snow didn’t<br />
disappoint. We did a few runs, taking<br />
pictures and videos and enjoying the<br />
unbelieveable views of Goderdzi Valley.<br />
After sunset we skied to the front door of<br />
the hotel and headed into the spa for a bit of<br />
relaxation.<br />
We spent the next two days playing around on the catski. The<br />
terrain, although not very steep, was really fun as the catski could<br />
take you almost anywhere and we spent the day doing runs in<br />
the middle of the small houses and forest and some open areas<br />
where you can play around doing fast, long turns.<br />
Tuesday was a bluebird day with no wind and you could see for<br />
miles. The snow conditions were great and you could choose so<br />
many different lines. The conditions mean there is almost no risk<br />
of avalanche so it was like one big playground. We only had a<br />
meeting point with the catski at the end of the slope and the rest<br />
you were free to chose your line. We enjoyed every second of it.<br />
The following day the fog and snow arrived so we chose the forest<br />
to ski as it provided more visibility. After a quick lunch we went<br />
back to the top for a “sunset mission.” It’s amazing how the views<br />
can change with a colourful sunset. In this area there are a lot<br />
of small wood cabins that farmers use during the summer which<br />
makes for breathtaking scenery with all the small huts covered in<br />
untouched snow.<br />
30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//31<br />
The gondola dwarfed by its surroundings... Goderdzi Ski Resort
Top: All alone in Mestia / Far right: Even the overcast days are great<br />
Left to right: Time to relax / The views are incredible / Solitude and snow<br />
Destination Mestia: Northern Georgia - Greater Caucasus<br />
Our destination was Tetnuldi Ski Resort and things here were<br />
really different. The resort was much bigger, the runs steeper<br />
and mountains higher. With that came more people, however<br />
we still felt like we had the mountain to ourselves. The first<br />
day we woke to a cloudy sky so caught the lift to the top of<br />
the resort, above the cloud layer. Magnificent views of Mount<br />
Tetnuldi (4,858m) and Mount Ushba (4,737m) greeted us, it<br />
was spectacular.<br />
We went with some guides from Vagabond <strong>Adventure</strong>s, they<br />
knew the terrain as this is their home resort, and with a higher<br />
risk of avalanche off-piste and a much larger area to ski it<br />
enabled us to ski freely without fear of getting lost. We spent<br />
the day skiing and enjoying the Georgian pow.<br />
The next day we went to Hatsvali Ski Resort where we did<br />
a few runs through the slopes with astonishing views of the<br />
Ushba Mountains before putting on skins and doing some ski<br />
touring. As time was limited, it was a short one but enough to<br />
know the area has a lot of potential and thousands of places to<br />
explore amongst the big mountains.<br />
Easy, cheap and fun.<br />
After a week in Georgia, we can say that the<br />
country exceeded our expectations, not only snow<br />
wise. We loved the food, we tried all types of<br />
khachapouris (a traditional Georgian dish of filled<br />
bread with cheese, meat or beans.) We also took<br />
part in a Khinkali masterclass and loved it, making<br />
and eating the traditional dumplings.<br />
The people were super charming, and we were<br />
invited to try their homemade wine and even the<br />
local vodka. Even though they didn’t speak a lot of<br />
Engilsh (or Spanish in our case), we were always<br />
received with a big smile.<br />
In conclusion it was an amazing trip to a country<br />
that is a hidden gem, and we know for sure we<br />
will be back again next year. It has so much to<br />
offer; tons of snow, delicious food, lovely people,<br />
astonishing landscapes, adventurous terrain and a<br />
charming culture.<br />
32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
34//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />
Tips (and 2 feet) dipped well-into the deep end above Parque Nacional Lanin, Patagonia.<br />
photo: P.M.Fadden
SUFFRAGE AND GROWTH<br />
AN ACCIDENTAL ROMANCE<br />
By Paul Fadden<br />
I learned to ski because I needed the<br />
money.<br />
A weird tour through the warped brothels of<br />
Italian immigration had just stripped me of<br />
a life’s savings, direction, and most worldly<br />
possessions. So when I answered a call<br />
promising winter employment high atop<br />
the Chilean Andes, I asked no questions. I<br />
simply said, “Si.”<br />
Raise the stakes; raise the allure, and so it<br />
goes until somebody’s ‘bust’. In my case,<br />
to ‘bust’ meant a fate worse than drowning<br />
by dirty toilet bowl. And I was tip-toeing<br />
the porcelain edge, I knew it. Lumped atop<br />
a kitchen table was a cluster of rumpled<br />
notes, random coins, a wrinkled bank slip<br />
and pocket lint, enough--to the Peso—for<br />
one last roll of the dice.<br />
What followed was a sixty-hour odyssey<br />
aboard two turbulent airplanes and two<br />
asthmatic buses, ending in regurgitation at<br />
the wheel wells of a rusty flatbed driven<br />
by one, Señor Nelson Rubilar Flores—<br />
‘Nelson’ for short.<br />
My broad-faced Chilean patron smiled<br />
widely beneath dancing eyes. He spoke<br />
not a lick of English save a single,<br />
intensely stressed declaration: ‘Eetz-Eem-<br />
Por-Tant.’ Ah Nelson, how right you are.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//35
He gripped me in brotherhood and chucked my<br />
pack over the tailgate. I climbed in and raised a<br />
thumb. Nelson punched it for Maipo.<br />
San Jose de Maipo in Provincia de Cordillera<br />
is Cabernet country, where the “roads” twist<br />
like vines and “driving” is aerobic. For sixty-six<br />
invigorating kilometers, Nelson roared ahead<br />
with reckless abandon. On the sixty-seventh,<br />
he crushed the brake like beer can and I laid<br />
eyes on my fate, the grand-daddy of Chilean ski<br />
culture and industry; Lagunillas.<br />
Centro de Esqui Lagunillas is the country’s<br />
pioneer ski area. Its low altitude and roots<br />
attitude paradoxically pin it down and prop it<br />
up. Big June snow meant an early start to the<br />
season and a dire need for staff. In me, Nelson<br />
saw cheap labor plus nothing to lose, and he<br />
was right.<br />
Promise of income accompanied by<br />
accommodation had already edged-out concern<br />
for creature comforts or inalienable human<br />
rights. But where, I could not help but wonder,<br />
was that accommodation? Save for a series of<br />
60 yr-old wooden platter lifts and a few sagging<br />
shanties, the base appeared to be featureless.<br />
I would have asked, but Nelson had the answer<br />
in the form of a shovel planted at my feet.<br />
“La Francesca,” he said, directing a reverent<br />
gaze uphill.<br />
A building nested a few hundred meters higher<br />
on the southern face. I hadn’t noticed because<br />
only its roof peeked above the snowpack.<br />
Nelson was carving a trail towards it and<br />
indicating, irritably, that I lend a hand. Cold<br />
but sweating, we excavated around clapboard<br />
walls, Plexiglas windows and doors too small<br />
for their frame. Inside, abandoned armies of<br />
crumpled wrappers, unwashed dishes and<br />
rotting food covered every surface. A mouse<br />
dropping carpet sullied an otherwise bare<br />
concrete floor. Heat was by wood fire, water<br />
needed boiling, and electricity ran only when<br />
lifts did. La Francesca, my fortress of solitude.<br />
Back at the carpark I learned there was a<br />
ski school and equipment rental among the<br />
sagging shacks. It was by working there that<br />
I would earn my luxurious accommodation.<br />
Approaching the shop required awkward hops<br />
through high, white dunes, and once there<br />
Nelson forced its door with his shoulder. Inside,<br />
and strewn everywhere, laid a disarray of<br />
skis. In mismatched pairs old or new, large or<br />
small, the floor was a felled forest of yellowed<br />
planks. This plus the La Francesca had to be<br />
rock bottom, surely, but the boot room proved<br />
otherwise.<br />
36//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
A dynamic demonstration of the benefits to be found beyond 'the known'. photo: P.M.Fadden
The author; finding footing atop the Catalunya Pyrenees and (inset) reveling in ducky-pow<br />
among the Japan Alps." photo: P.M.Fadden<br />
A mule, happily chewing hay, reined<br />
over a bale someone—maybe Nelson—<br />
had thoughtfully placed in a corner. (The<br />
room was a heated shelter after all, and<br />
much snow had fallen.) The contented<br />
beast cast me an eye that implied I was<br />
the actual ass. And I sighed to sense the<br />
legitimacy of the point.<br />
Meanwhile, Nelson scooped a pair of<br />
158 Vokl Supersports from the melee (I<br />
am 191cm) hoisting the skis, he purred<br />
“Classes, Plata,” and “Eetz-Eem-Por-<br />
Tant.”<br />
‘Plata’ signifies money, like ‘bucks’<br />
denotes cash, and my employer knew<br />
full-well my need. Beaming, Nelson<br />
dodged the mule to retrieve a pair of<br />
shit-kicker Langes. And that rounded-out<br />
my kit.<br />
The assignment: resuscitate the shop<br />
then work as its instructor, with no ski<br />
experience whatsoever.<br />
The following months are etched in<br />
my bones as much as memory. Boil<br />
water, chop wood, ski-train with Nelson,<br />
shovel; feed the mule, sort gear, and<br />
share the romance of sliding downhill<br />
with the citizens of Santiago. Nelson’s<br />
bread and butter were those city folk.<br />
A foreigner-lead class was incentive to<br />
buy. That I was a learner myself seemed<br />
beside the point.<br />
At first, the incessant pace of each day<br />
slowed my recognition of the seed which<br />
was growing. By the time I did, it was<br />
there to stay. A surprise longing to ski<br />
had overgrown the shock of being made<br />
to. A dormant thing awoke and it defied<br />
38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
equip<br />
yourself!<br />
all physical laws save gravity. Whether<br />
blistering sun or bitter cold, I skied. I<br />
hiked last lines while sun set. The ‘Plata’<br />
no longer mattered.<br />
Then a big daddy storm came to call.<br />
Vicious wind coupled by low visibility<br />
closed Lagunillas for three days, sending<br />
Nelson (and the mule) scurrying to the<br />
valley below. I was forgotten, lightless<br />
and isolated within La Francesca. But<br />
rather than shiver, I made a date with<br />
said storm. Battening all hatches, and<br />
touching wood for an absent beacon,<br />
I set a boot pack into void. It was a<br />
scenario I’d never imagined for myself<br />
yet somehow felt drawn to all the same;<br />
navigating by inner compass, seeking to<br />
carve my own line leading home.<br />
Years have passed, yet skiing remains<br />
the source. For it I’ve risked frostbite,<br />
suffered crooks, lied to bosses, bailed<br />
on girlfriends, crashed in bathtubs, and<br />
accepted without reservation that this,<br />
to me, is a lifelong romance, simply<br />
because Eetz-Eem-Por-Tant. Sometimes<br />
that’s all there is to say.<br />
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YOUR SNOW HELMET CAN BE YOUR ON-MOUNTAIN DISCO TOO<br />
The year is 2022, and by now most people have heeded the “gospel”<br />
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have spaces to install audio drop-ins, and installation is easy!<br />
Over 20 helmet brands offer audio-ready compatibility allowing skiers<br />
and snowboarders to easily add a wireless system. These systems all<br />
provide Bluetooth audio and phone call capability with glove friendly<br />
controls. Phone calls on the mountain? Yes! The ear pad itself works as<br />
a wind noise dampener (or “DeadCat” in microphone parlance) so calls<br />
can be made on the blusteriest day.<br />
Installation is simple… just open each ear pad up and remove the<br />
pre-cut foam inserts. Not every helmet has clearly marked access so<br />
play around until you get it open. Smith provides a nice convenient<br />
zipper to access the internals. Some models, like the Oakley Mod 5,<br />
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WINTER FISHING<br />
THEY STILL HAVE TO EAT<br />
By Steve Dickinson<br />
Despite our best intentions, when<br />
the air gets chilly, we tend to back<br />
off. Fish are a cold-blooded creature,<br />
they appreciate temperature, but<br />
they do not react to it as extremely<br />
as we do, however, like many<br />
people, fish tend to be less active<br />
in the cold. As cold-blooded<br />
creatures, their metabolism dips<br />
when temperatures take a dive. But<br />
they still have to eat, maybe a little<br />
less but if they eat, then they can be<br />
caught – simple.<br />
We spoke to a range of cold weather<br />
experts; fishermen, search and<br />
rescue, alpine guides, and ski patrol<br />
and this is their input. The simple key<br />
to enjoying the cold is staying warm.<br />
That is it, simple.<br />
If it gets cold and you want to stay<br />
warm the first rule, is you need to<br />
stay dry. Fishing and keeping dry<br />
may not be as easy as it sounds.<br />
The simplest solution is to keep a<br />
dry towel to dry your hands with after<br />
catching a fish or drying your legs<br />
with when launching a boat. The<br />
smallest hole in your waders will let<br />
in icy water and once your clothes<br />
are wet, especially if they are not<br />
wool, you are going to get cold quick,<br />
so no leaks. In winter on our boat I<br />
keep a dry towel in a dry bag just for<br />
towelling off, a second towel to keep<br />
drying your hands after catching fish.<br />
Second must do; is keeping your<br />
head warm. We lose 80% of our<br />
body heat via your head. You need a<br />
woollen beanie, balaclava, or buff. Of<br />
late I have been using a buff in that<br />
they are versatile, if you get too hot<br />
you can pull it down to your neck, if it<br />
gets real cold, you can use it pulling<br />
up over your ears and head, they<br />
just give you more options. But buy<br />
a good one there are loads of cheap<br />
synthetic ones on the market that<br />
are next too useless. A beanie and<br />
a buff can also be a good combo if<br />
it is really chilly. Word of advice, if<br />
you pull the buff up over your neck<br />
then over your mouth, your breath<br />
will cause condensation, which make<br />
the buff wet, remember keeping dry<br />
is the key.<br />
After making sure your head is<br />
warm next you need to look after<br />
your other extremities. Starting from<br />
the ground up, in waders make<br />
sure you have woollen socks, once<br />
again do not buy cheap. Even if<br />
the product says merino, not all<br />
merino is made equal. You tend to<br />
get what you pay for. Merion is light<br />
weight, breathable, merino manages<br />
moisture by a process called wicking<br />
– in that it will pull moisture away<br />
from your body which if chilled with<br />
make you cold. Merino is also antibacterial<br />
and odour resistance.<br />
Never use synthetic or worse cotton,<br />
as it is quick to suck up water, slow<br />
to dry and should never be worn<br />
next to your skin. If like me you find<br />
wool itchy, there are now a range of<br />
synthetic /wool blends and silk/wool<br />
blends which are easy to wear. Wool<br />
dries quickly and will retain some<br />
heat if it gets wet and has great<br />
thermal qualities – just ask sheep.<br />
Your other extremities are your<br />
hands, ears, and nose. There are<br />
a range of fingerless gloves on the<br />
market which are great for fishing. A<br />
well-known guide showed me a trick<br />
once where he had an additional pair<br />
of extra-large woollen gloves that he<br />
wore over his fingerless gloves for<br />
travelling. For ears and nose they<br />
can be looked after by your buff.<br />
There are a range of commercial<br />
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//43
hand warmers, they come in an array<br />
of sizes, and some are reusable. You<br />
either snap or mix them which causes a<br />
chemical reaction, and they warm up. Do<br />
not put them in your gloves – rather put<br />
them in a pocket so that if your gloves do<br />
get wet you can warm your hands up. I<br />
have heard of people putting them in their<br />
socks in their waders but really if it is that<br />
cold maybe stay home. To locate these if<br />
you cannot find in your local fishing store<br />
look to any ski outlet. Reusable ones<br />
are more expensive but with repeat use<br />
become a far better deal.<br />
The art of layering. There is an art to<br />
layering. Key rule, no cotton, only wool,<br />
some fleece, and microfleece. Over<br />
the last ten years there has been an<br />
explosion of quality layering products.<br />
What used to be just an itchy thermal<br />
layer and a woolly jumper that has all<br />
changed. There are now a full range of<br />
base layers, mid layers, and top layers. It<br />
is simple- when it is cold put more on.<br />
Fishing, unlike say tramping where you<br />
are constantly moving you need to be<br />
warm from the get-go. This includes<br />
fleece-based legging or pants. I have<br />
two different thickness fleeces legging<br />
I wear under my waders depending on<br />
how cold it is going to be. Top, I wear<br />
a RAB micro fleece, super lightweight,<br />
short sleeved, this is my go too product<br />
winter and summer. Mid layer long sleeve<br />
merino and if it is going to be cold, I add<br />
another layer on top, but making sure<br />
there is heaps of movement (not too tight<br />
for the last layer) – then jacket on top of<br />
that. An obvious observation is that you<br />
can always remove a layer, you cannot<br />
always add one. You do not want to be<br />
too hot so that you sweat, as sweat can<br />
chill off and make you colder. You want<br />
to be comfortably warm, and layering is a<br />
way to maintain that temperature control.<br />
When its cold drink plenty of water. Hot<br />
tea and coffee might seem a good idea,<br />
but you will need to pee, which mean<br />
exposure to the cold! A good option is hot<br />
water, or hot chocolate. What is a real<br />
‘no no’ is alcohol in any form as it lowers<br />
your core body temperature (even if it<br />
feels warm to begin with) – save that wee<br />
dram till you get back home and make it<br />
part of the boasting process, my winter<br />
suggestion is Fireballs.<br />
New Zealand is renowned for having<br />
four seasons in one day so be prepared<br />
– check the forecast but do not 100%<br />
believe it if it says all is good, be prepared<br />
for the worst.<br />
In winter it pays to fish with a friend<br />
should you take a tumble into the water<br />
someone is there to help out and in the<br />
worst-case scenario, go for help or at<br />
least be able to see the first signs of<br />
hypothermia.<br />
When we think of hypothermia, we<br />
think about people trapped on mountain<br />
side in a storm. That is not the case.<br />
Hypothermia can easily occur when you<br />
are exposed to cold air, water, wind, or<br />
rain. Your body temperature can drop to<br />
a dangerously low level at temperatures<br />
of only 10° or higher in wet and windy<br />
weather, or if you are in 16° to 21° of<br />
water you are at risk of hypothermia.<br />
It can happen easily, I once got<br />
hypothermia waiting for a bus in winter.<br />
Symptoms and signs<br />
•person feels cold to touch and may be<br />
shivering violently.<br />
•tiredness – person may fall behind when<br />
walking.<br />
•clumsy, uncoordinated, may fall over and<br />
appear drunk.<br />
•changes in mood with irritability, irrational<br />
behaviour<br />
•person may resist help.<br />
•slow to respond to questions.<br />
•shivering may decrease and stop – this<br />
is a critical sign.<br />
•loss of consciousness<br />
•pale or blueish skin colour<br />
What to do?<br />
The best treatment for hypothermia<br />
is prevention. But if you suspect<br />
hypothermia, the aim of helping the<br />
person is to stop further heat loss and<br />
warm the patient slowly.<br />
•Provide immediate shelter out of the<br />
wind and dry clothing.<br />
•If fully conscious, give warm drinks,<br />
lollies, chocolate, etc.<br />
•If isolated, body contact to reduce heat<br />
loss and slowly warm – e.g. huddle<br />
around the patient in a sleeping bag.<br />
•Get help.<br />
Winter fishing is all about comfort and<br />
safety. The two should go hand in hand.<br />
In most cases there should be little risk<br />
as long as people are sensible and<br />
aware. In winter it pays not to go as far<br />
from your safety access – your vehicle,<br />
accommodation etc. However if you are<br />
going further you need to make sure<br />
you are prepared. Prepare for the cold,<br />
prepare for the worst and you will be<br />
comfortable, safe, and prepared for winter<br />
fun.<br />
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xposure<br />
Photographer: Andrew Chad,<br />
Athlete: Corey Seemann,<br />
Location: Jackson, WY, United States<br />
About the shot: If you ever want to frustrate<br />
yourself, try shooting skiing at night with a<br />
flash. We had an idea of what may happen if<br />
everything went in our favour, but that's the<br />
beauty of photography, it usually doesn't. So,<br />
when this image showed up on the back of the<br />
camera at the end of a week-long ski trip, we<br />
called it a night. Because sometimes a little bit<br />
of dumb luck is all you need. The image is fairly<br />
simple when it's broken down. A dark room,<br />
single flash and a white bounce sheet are the<br />
basic concepts here. Tracking the subject though<br />
the dark was a little tricky, but thank god for<br />
modeling lights. But what makes it special to me<br />
is the fact that Corey was wearing his daylight<br />
lenses in the middle of the night. The coloured<br />
lenses and the reflection of the snow in them is<br />
the real treat of the image.<br />
Photographer Credit: Red Bull Illume 2021
WINTER<br />
MACKENZIE<br />
There are moments in a Mackenzie<br />
winter that stand out and define<br />
the season: breathing in crisp<br />
alpine air, the contrast of snowy<br />
white mountains against bright blue<br />
skies, local eateries with roaring<br />
fires and hearty tucker – the perfect<br />
way to warm up with good cheer<br />
after a day exploring an alpine<br />
wonderland. The comfort of steam<br />
rising from hot pools while you<br />
admire the starry skies followed by<br />
a perfect sleep in blissful silence<br />
after a busy day.<br />
So head outdoors and come play<br />
in our expansive mountain-ringed<br />
plateau – the legendary Mackenzie!<br />
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MACKENZIE<br />
REGION<br />
*<br />
Heliskiing ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//49<br />
- image by Mount Cook Heliski.
Mt Dobson - Image by Jeremy Lyttle<br />
THREE SKI FIELDS<br />
The Mackenzie Region has three ski fields, all situated within an<br />
easy drive of each other. These family-owned fields offer laid back<br />
uncrowded skiing and boarding with outstanding views of the<br />
lakes and mountains.<br />
Mount Dobson<br />
‘Dobbo’ as it’s known to locals, is located between Fairlie and<br />
Lake Tekapo. Famous for all-day sun, large learners area and<br />
regular snowfalls on the peaks. Go up past the groomed trails<br />
to try some off-piste on the smooth powder with views of lakes<br />
Tekapo & Pūkaki. Warming up at the historic Silverstream Hotel<br />
Pub afterwards is a must. A long standing establishment since<br />
1877, the pub offers craft beer, delicious meals, and live bands.<br />
Celebrate your day on the slopes in true rural style with a visit to<br />
this treasure!<br />
Roundhill Ski Area<br />
Close to Lake Tekapo, Roundhill is one of the country’s largest ski<br />
resorts at a whopping 500 hectares. The access road is one of<br />
the safest (no scary drop offs), and the carpark is adjacent to the<br />
learners area where you’ll often find adults cooking on the BBQ<br />
while the kids learn the basics. The more adventurous skier will<br />
love Australasia’s biggest vertical drop (783m). Located at the top<br />
of the T-bar is the precious von Brown Hut, a licensed café with<br />
some of the best views in the world. Try their speciality drinks 'The<br />
Jumping Goat' and the 'B&B Coffee'.<br />
Roundhill Ski Area - Image by Blackbird Media<br />
Ōhau Snow Fields<br />
Not far from Twizel is Ōhau Snow Fields. This is classic Kiwi<br />
skiing with the lodge offering old school charm with roaring<br />
log fire, group-style dining, and a cosy bar. All ski abilities are<br />
catered for, and there is some adventurous terrain near the top.<br />
Stay the night at the lodge, or simply drive over from your Twizel<br />
accommodation for a day on the slopes. The views of Lake Ōhau<br />
have to be seen to believed!<br />
Ōhau Snow Field - Image supplied<br />
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Snow shoeing with Alpine Recreation<br />
SKI THE TASMAN GLACIER<br />
The Haupapa/Tasman Glacier is New Zealand’s largest<br />
glacier, and you can ski on top of it! And best of all, you<br />
needn’t be a hardcore professional, this is for intermediate<br />
level skiers. The runs are blue/green and range from 8-10km.<br />
After getting dropped off by helicopter or skiplane you<br />
find yourself on top of the glacier with mountains in every<br />
direction, including the mighty Aoraki/Mount Cook. The<br />
stillness up there is profound, no rustling leaves or singing<br />
birds – just silence and the occasional avalanche far away<br />
(don’t worry, it’s safe on the glacier). Explore ice caves and<br />
incredible ice formations at a relaxed pace with your guide.<br />
This is one bucket-list item that’s truly achievable by almost<br />
any skier.<br />
HELI-SKI<br />
After some adventure? You must be, you’re currently reading<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> Magazine! Look no further than heli-ski, this is truly<br />
the stuff that puts you ‘above and beyond’. Charter a flight for<br />
a multi-day skiing adventure. Soar above the vibrant turquoise<br />
lakes, glaciers, and icebergs to spend your day amongst<br />
lofty mountain peaks, skiing virgin snow and revelling in the<br />
grandeur of it all.<br />
ALPINE RECREATION<br />
With the arrival of the winter snows the Southern Alps are<br />
transformed from tussock lands into an extensive playground<br />
for snowshoeing. Alpine Recreation offer 2-5 day trips from<br />
their Rex Simpson Hut at Lake Tekapo. Situated in the Kahui<br />
Kaupeka Conservation Park, part of the Two Thumb Range,<br />
you can enjoy views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Main<br />
Divide. It’s wonderful to be exploring the snowy valleys, icecovered<br />
streams, and relax in the evening at the hut nicely<br />
warmed by a logburner. Three days is the recommended trip<br />
length, but even if you just have a weekend to spare you’ll still<br />
get a refreshing break from the normal in a winter wonderland.<br />
Mueller Hut - Image by Siller Francisco<br />
WALKING TRAILS IN WINTER<br />
A winter walk is a great way to boost energy and wake up your<br />
immune system to stave off any winter colds! The fresh air and<br />
incredible snowy mountain views are sure to feed your soul while<br />
you get some exercise.<br />
To get right amongst the mountains you can’t beat hiking up to<br />
Mueller Hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Dubbed the<br />
stairway to heaven, the Sealy Tarns Track in the Aoraki/Mount<br />
Cook National Park is a must for the fit adventurer. 2,200 steps<br />
take you straight up the freshwater lakes of Sealy Tarns providing<br />
spectacular views of the Hooker Valley and the National Park.<br />
The track branches off from the Kea Point track in the village<br />
and is steep with a total height gain of 600m. Those wanting an<br />
overnight adventure continue can continue on the alpine route<br />
for a couple of hours to Mueller Hut. This 28-bunk hut has gas<br />
cookers and solar lighting. During winter it’s strongly advised to<br />
bring an ice axe, walking poles and crampons. Pay the hut fee at<br />
the Department of Conservation visitor centre in the Aoraki/Mount<br />
Cook village, register your intentions, and check the avalanche<br />
advisory report as there is some avalanche risk along the route.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//51
Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail<br />
CYCLING THE ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL<br />
Aoraki/Mount Cook & Lake Tekapo are the two starting<br />
points for the world-famous 315km Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.<br />
This nine-section trail stretches from the Southern Alps to<br />
the Pacific Ocean. If riding the full trail doesn’t fit with your<br />
schedule, try one of the day rides. Some of the most scenic<br />
sections are near the town of Twizel.<br />
There are many recognised benefits of winter cycling. You’ll<br />
burn more calories due your body working harder to stay<br />
warm. Studies have shown that your resting metabolic rate<br />
increases when you’re exposed to cold. It all adds up to a fitter<br />
body while your lazy mates are busy with Netflix and chill.<br />
Some tips for staying safe while winter cycling include lowering<br />
your saddle to lower centre of gravity and decrease wobble<br />
on ice, letting some air out of the tyres to increase traction,<br />
layering appropriately, and wearing gloves.<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> South have a winter Alps 2 Ocean packaged<br />
tour that includes mulled wine, hot water bottles, warm fires,<br />
soaking in hot pools, and much more to ensure total comfort<br />
for the six-day tour.<br />
STARGAZING<br />
Winter is the best time to experience the protected ‘park in the<br />
sky’, the 4,367sq km Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky<br />
Reserve. It gets darker sooner, and the centre of the Milky Way<br />
is right above you. The spacious landscape coupled with strict<br />
lighting controls ensures you’ll get a stellar view of the night<br />
sky in the Mackenzie. There’s a wide range of paid tours to<br />
choose from: a working observatory, floating in hammocks in<br />
hot pools, a wine cellar, farm tours, and even small group tours<br />
that deliver a bespoke experience at your accommodation.<br />
You can also try your hand at astrophotography with one of the<br />
region’s talented guide/photographers.<br />
View from Mt John – Dark Sky Project<br />
Another option is to bring plenty some cosy blankets and<br />
folding chairs (don’t forget a thermos of hot chocolate!)<br />
and find your own special place to ponder the universe<br />
beneath the stars. There are plenty of good locations on<br />
the canal roads, and seeing the stars reflected in the water<br />
is truly a special sight.<br />
HOT POOLS<br />
Everything you need for the ultimate day out is at Tekapo<br />
Springs. Try a thrilling snow tube ride, ice skate on the<br />
outdoor rink, then warm up in the hot pools. The onsite<br />
café is fully licensed with a wide range of food and drink<br />
for everyone. Treat yourself to a massage or beauty<br />
treatment at the day spa, or stargaze from a hot pool with<br />
their Tekapo Star Gazing tours at night.<br />
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"<br />
mindfulness = attention+intention<br />
We have all done it.<br />
Rocked up to the boat, the ski<br />
field, the rugby game, or the hike,<br />
not feeling 100%. Sure, it was<br />
great meeting up with friends the<br />
night before but then adding too<br />
much merriment to the evening<br />
basically ruins the following day,<br />
possibly the week. You might not<br />
even be hung-over or sick, but<br />
the remnant of alcohol removes<br />
your edge, or, to use a term that<br />
has been used a lot recently, the<br />
alcohol impacts or removes your<br />
‘intention’.<br />
Intention; is defined as a noun<br />
as something that you want and<br />
plan to do:<br />
Stress, health, circumstance,<br />
weather can all get in the way of<br />
our intention.<br />
But alcohol is a substance that<br />
we ‘choose’ to add that often<br />
gets in the way of our core<br />
intentions.<br />
Your intention was to go fishing,<br />
skiing, biking, or tramping. Not to<br />
feel like ‘ah shit’ for the morning<br />
waiting for the alcohol fog to lift.<br />
With “Dry July” looming and with<br />
the event becoming more and<br />
more popular, it is a good time<br />
to look at our drinking culture.<br />
This is not a goodie-two-shoes,<br />
finger-pointing, evangelical<br />
crusade against alcohol. This is<br />
a look at being mindful, (which is<br />
very WOKE at present) paying<br />
attention and maintaining the<br />
right intention.<br />
What is mindful drinking?<br />
Mindfulness = attention +<br />
intention<br />
Mindfulness is about paying<br />
attention. So many of us go<br />
through life never really noticing<br />
or even considering how we feel,<br />
what’s going on in our heads,<br />
or how we respond to the world<br />
around us.<br />
An addictive world can creep<br />
up on us slowly, it is not always<br />
alcohol or drugs but can be<br />
anything, anything that we feel<br />
we must do ‘or feel compelled to<br />
do’, from that 5k run every day<br />
to simply checking your phone<br />
messages as soon as you wake<br />
up. Unaware repetition is the<br />
subliminal cancer that can rob us<br />
of our intention.<br />
If someone asked you the night<br />
before, ‘do you want to just<br />
have an average day skiing<br />
and feel sick or do you want<br />
this third glass of wine’ – it’s an<br />
easy answer. But only if you<br />
are attentive, if someone else is<br />
pouring your wine or you are not<br />
aware of time and numbers –<br />
you are not mindfully drinking.<br />
Mindfulness is also about living<br />
with intention. Sometimes it<br />
feels like life is happening to<br />
us, it is the way we have been<br />
"<br />
programmed. But<br />
as we notice what’s<br />
going on inside us and<br />
how we react to other<br />
people, we can begin<br />
to take control.<br />
We start to live<br />
deliberately. Making<br />
things happen for us<br />
instead of to us.<br />
Mindfulness is also about<br />
living with intention.
Living with intention<br />
Your intention can revolve around an<br />
experience or it can revolve around your<br />
whole life. Some are happy and don’t<br />
need to make any changes, others want<br />
change but are not sure how to bring it<br />
about and some simply have not noticed.<br />
Our reasons for wanting to change are as<br />
diverse as we are.<br />
So much of our culture revolves around<br />
alcohol and it is not until you stop that<br />
you realise how often that connection is<br />
there. If for no other reason do Dry July<br />
so that you can see for yourself how<br />
often and how basic that connection is,<br />
once you have identified it, it makes your<br />
intention so much easy to fulfil.<br />
Mindful drinking really is as simple as<br />
paying attention and living with intention.<br />
Drinking is not about getting drunk,<br />
it’s just a by-product. But the social<br />
aspect, not even pressure just location<br />
and process, can make not drinking<br />
uncomfortable, difficult. As awareness<br />
of the impact of drinking has grown, we<br />
have seen a growth of non-alcohol and<br />
low alcohol beverages bloom. I recall<br />
vividly receiving a pallet of non-alcoholic<br />
Heineken as a promotion and didn’t really<br />
know what to do with it. We all agreed<br />
it would never take off. We were wrong,<br />
now, supermarkets have whole sections<br />
dedicated to non-alcoholic drinks. I am<br />
a fussy beer drinker, I prefer a strong<br />
flavoured IPA, and now, sure enough,<br />
there are several on the market that is<br />
alcohol free.<br />
In the US there are now full blow AF<br />
(alcohol-free) bars. In New Zealand,<br />
we have seen the alcohol-free range<br />
increase, particularly online. Leading<br />
the way in selection is Clear Head<br />
Drinks an online company based here<br />
in New Zealand dedicated to alcoholfree<br />
beverages. We caught up with<br />
Donna and Rick and asked them how<br />
the company came about.<br />
How did clear head drinks come about?<br />
Clear Head Drinks was born out of<br />
the need from the co-founder of the<br />
company, Ricky Bartlett who decided<br />
to stop drinking alcohol 8 years ago<br />
but who wanted to still be able to drink<br />
alcoholic drinks but without the effects<br />
of alcohol. Looking around there was a<br />
very limited supply of drinks and those<br />
drinks that were available tended to be<br />
spread out amongst different shops,<br />
supermarkets, and online stores. The<br />
initial idea had been to gather all the<br />
drinks that were on the market and<br />
have them under one roof so that Kiwis<br />
had one place that they could come<br />
to buy NA/Alcohol-free drinks knowing<br />
that they were looking at the complete<br />
collection. The problem was that not<br />
all those drinks tasted any good and<br />
so we decided to look overseas where<br />
the markets were more established<br />
to find a wider variety. At that time,<br />
even though New Zealand was a<br />
craft beer nation, there were no NA or<br />
alcohol-free craft beers available that<br />
were brewed in NZ and so we went<br />
out to the USA, Europe, Canada, and<br />
Australia to find a range that would<br />
satisfy thirsty Kiwis. This is how the<br />
current set-up came into being and<br />
Clear Head Drinks now has a large<br />
range of beverage options from NZ<br />
and from overseas with many of those<br />
drinks being world leaders in their field.<br />
What was the biggest challenge you<br />
had in establishing the company?<br />
Clear Head Drinks was the first,<br />
dedicated NA/Alcohol Free online<br />
store in the country and so being the<br />
first brought with it some challenges<br />
because this path had not been walked<br />
before. Connecting with suppliers from<br />
overseas, arranging freight at a time<br />
when the supply chain was starting<br />
to be affected by Covid and coming<br />
up with the funds to be able to buy<br />
large amounts of stock to bring into<br />
the country were all big challenges. A<br />
large stumbling block was our website.<br />
We had a launch date in mind, but the<br />
development of the website did not go<br />
according to plan and so everything<br />
was delayed as we found a new<br />
website developer, and this turned<br />
out to be an expensive and timeconsuming<br />
exercise.<br />
"<br />
Clear Head Drinks was born out of the need from the co-founder of<br />
the company, Ricky Bartlett who decided to stop drinking alcohol 8<br />
years ago but who wanted to still be able to drink alcoholic drinks but<br />
without the effects of alcohol.<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//55
" We will continue<br />
to do our part<br />
by bringing an<br />
extensive range of<br />
quality, healthy<br />
and tasty nonalcoholic<br />
drinks<br />
to the NZ market.<br />
As with the emergence of low alcohol beer<br />
did you originally feel any resistance to the<br />
concept?<br />
The idea for Clear Head Drinks came about<br />
8 years ago but it wasn't until the first full<br />
lock down that we acted and began building<br />
the company. If we had started the company<br />
when we had the idea, it could have been<br />
a different story as the non-alcoholic<br />
movement hadn't really taken off at that time<br />
and there was resistance to the concept.<br />
Fast forward 7 years and the overall move to<br />
a more "wellness" focused society in general<br />
and NA/Alcohol-free drinking had become<br />
more and more accepted worldwide and that<br />
acceptance was certainly growing here in<br />
NZ. When we asked people about our idea<br />
we were constantly greeted with positive<br />
feedback and people saying how there was a<br />
market for drinks like this and how more and<br />
more adults wanted to move away from the<br />
harmful effects of alcohol. You always had<br />
the odd person who would say "what's the<br />
point" but generally people understood and<br />
were hugely supportive and there is no doubt<br />
that Kiwis have really welcomed the idea<br />
with open arms.<br />
On a day-to-day level – week by week, have<br />
you been affected by distribution issues?<br />
The distribution issues have been twofold<br />
for us with delays and cost increases<br />
when bringing the stock in from overseas<br />
as well as delivery issues here at home.<br />
The importing of goods has become harder<br />
thanks to container shortages and the effect<br />
of covid on the distribution network (as well<br />
as boats getting stuck in Canals!) and so this<br />
has not only increased the time to get stock<br />
from abroad, but the costs have gone up. At<br />
home, the problems have been, again, due<br />
to the covid issue which has taken courier<br />
drivers off the road, and slowed the ability<br />
for our warehouse to pick, pack and dispatch<br />
orders and this has led to delays.<br />
I am aware that beer has a used by<br />
date – how do you factor that in with<br />
such and extensive range?<br />
There is a lot of juggling that needs to<br />
be done to have products in the store<br />
that have a significant shelf life so<br />
that customers have the certainty that<br />
when the drinks arrive, they are going<br />
to be as good as they can be. When<br />
purchasing from Europe for instance, it<br />
can take up to 3 months for the ship to<br />
arrive and if the product has, like with<br />
Beer, a 12-month shelf life then it is<br />
imperative that what is sent to us is as<br />
fresh as possible to make sure that we<br />
have plenty of time to be able to sell<br />
the goods and that when they arrive<br />
at your door they taste as good as<br />
they should. Keeping a close eye on<br />
when the "best before" dates run out<br />
enables us to order in the appropriate<br />
time frames so that we always have<br />
the best stock on hand.<br />
Do you see a trend in what is popular<br />
– what sells best?<br />
There is no question that New Zealand<br />
is more of a beer nation than anything<br />
else and so we probably sell more<br />
craft beer than any other drink. We<br />
do also sell a great deal of sparkling<br />
wine and one of our exclusive brands,<br />
Thomson & Scott, is our biggest<br />
selling individual product. We are<br />
finding that buyers are willing to try<br />
new things and that is why we look to<br />
increase our range on a regular basis<br />
to give more choice and variety.<br />
There is a worldwide trend to AF bars<br />
– do you think that will start to happen<br />
in New Zealand?<br />
The trend towards non-alcoholic<br />
bars is one that we feel is inevitable<br />
here in New Zealand. There was an<br />
attempt in 2015 with a bar called "Tap<br />
Bar" in Auckland but it didn't work as<br />
the market wasn't ready for it and the<br />
concept of the bar, opening at midnight<br />
to gather those spilling out of other<br />
bars, just didn't fly.<br />
Fast forward to 2022 and Unleaded<br />
Alcohol-Free opened in the Wairarapa,<br />
initially as part of the Greytown<br />
truckstop venue. Unleaded has been<br />
well received with even sceptical<br />
patrons becoming happy customers.<br />
With NA/Alcohol-free drinks becoming<br />
more mainstream, we do see AF bars<br />
having their place in NZ and it is only<br />
a matter of time before this happens<br />
across the country, initially with "popup"<br />
bars and then with permanent<br />
venues.<br />
What does the future look like for clear<br />
head drinks?<br />
The NA/AF drinks market is only just<br />
beginning here in NZ. There is a great<br />
deal of interest in the category, but bars<br />
and restaurants are still very slow in<br />
adopting the idea of alcoholic drinks<br />
and where they have jumped on board,<br />
the options are limited. There is no<br />
question that when NA/AF drinks are<br />
available they sell and so it's a case of<br />
educating more hospitality premises so<br />
that they understand that they can sell<br />
this style of drinks, keep more of their<br />
customers happy and make margin at<br />
the same time. We will continue to do<br />
our part by bringing an extensive range<br />
of quality, healthy and tasty drinks<br />
to the NZ market and continuing to<br />
push the message that you can drink<br />
authentic, great-tasting adult drinks,<br />
and continue to enjoy the ritual of<br />
drinking but not suffer the harm that<br />
comes with alcohol.<br />
56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
New Zealand’s first online store<br />
solely dedicated to Non Alcoholic<br />
adult drinks.<br />
Perfect after a days adventuring - satisfy<br />
the taste without the after effects. Adult<br />
drinks that make you feel part of the<br />
socialising yet let you wake up the next<br />
day with a clear head ready for your<br />
next adventure.<br />
.<br />
No matter your reason.......we’ve got you covered<br />
Beers - Wines - Spirits - RTD’s - Ciders - All delivered to your door<br />
www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz
Got the pip<br />
In the mix<br />
O%<br />
www.clearheaddrinks.co.nz<br />
www.lyres.com<br />
www.stateofgracedrinks.co.nz<br />
www.mondaydistillery.com<br />
www.hancocks.co.nz<br />
In the spirit<br />
On the hop<br />
58//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
Unlike anywhere else?<br />
Yip. Here’s why...<br />
For starters, it’s not crowded.<br />
And the snow is incredible, because of, well,<br />
British Columbia winters.<br />
It could be just like anywhere else, but it ain’t.<br />
Come on over.<br />
There’s plenty of room.<br />
And the runs are endless, which means<br />
tired legs will be stoked to sink into the<br />
country’s largest slope-side outdoor<br />
hot pools. Let that soak in!<br />
The accommodation is right beside the lifts,<br />
our team is super-friendly, and well,<br />
it’s Canada, eh? The only thing stuck up here is<br />
the top of the mountain. It’s all pretty chill.<br />
(Except for the hot pools. Those are warm.)<br />
Save up to<br />
50% OFF<br />
LODGING & LIFT TICKETS<br />
See PanoramaResort.com/NZ for details.<br />
1.800.663.2929 / PanoramaResort.com
THE CARDRONA<br />
EXPERIENCE<br />
Established in 2013 The Cardrona experience is situated at<br />
the base of Cardrona Alpine Resort, just 45 minutes from<br />
Queenstown and 20 minutes from Wanaka town centre. It was<br />
started by Kel who had a passion for the region and a deep<br />
love of horses, which she combined to create an unforgettable<br />
kiwi experience for everyone.<br />
Simply The Cardrona activity centre offers first-class, familyfriendly<br />
guided horse treks and quad biking adventures in the<br />
stunning Cardrona Valley. You can explore The Cardrona’s<br />
unique slice of high-country heaven by horseback and quad<br />
bikes, summer or winter, all year-round.<br />
The handpicked trekking horses, with their kind and gentle<br />
temperament, take you on an unforgettable journey in the<br />
mountains. With a range of ages, heights and ‘horsanalities’<br />
across the herd, The Cardrona can cater to different weights<br />
and experience levels.<br />
By horseback or quad you can experience the rugged highcountry<br />
scenery, see its changing moods and picturesque<br />
seasons which Cardrona Valley is renowned for. Learn about<br />
the regions gold-mining history, you check out the working<br />
farm and grab a beer at the iconic Cardrona Hotel. The<br />
possibilities are endless.<br />
Group sizes are small & book out quickly so be sure to lock in<br />
your saddles early to avoid missing out!<br />
Beginners’ options – to advance All levels catered for<br />
• Cost $199 - $349<br />
• How to book www.thecardrona.co.nz<br />
The most special and exciting way to create your lasting Wanaka memories is from<br />
horseback or quad bike high up in the stunning mountains of The Cardrona.<br />
Ride out with THE CARDRONA today to discover the secrets of our unique alpine paradise!<br />
WWW.THECARDRONA.CO.NZWW.THECARDRONA.CO.NZ
Reviews from<br />
millions of Tripadvisor<br />
travellers place this<br />
attraction in the top<br />
10% worldwide.<br />
Come cycling in stunning<br />
Central Otago and let the<br />
experts look after all your needs<br />
> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />
> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />
> Roxbourgh Gorge Trail<br />
and more...<br />
Roxburgh Gorge trail view<br />
Call the experts at Bike It Now!: 0800 245 366<br />
Clyde Bike Shop and Tour office open 7 Days<br />
Cromwell Bike Shop open 7 days<br />
www.bikeitnow.co.nz<br />
Tripadvisor<br />
Travellers’<br />
Choice<br />
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⬤⬤⬤⬤⬤
INSULATED JACKETS<br />
ONE FOR EVERY OCCASSION<br />
By Lynne Dickinson<br />
If you take a moment to do a little bit of people watching, you<br />
will notice that nearly every second person will be wearing what<br />
we used to call a “puffer jacket”. These days they are not just for<br />
the avid adventurer, insulated jackets have become a staple in<br />
everyone’s wardrobe and there is such a variety of them that it is<br />
easy to get overwhelmed by the choice.<br />
There are now quite a wide range of fills available, and each<br />
comes with its pros and cons, so it’s about deciding which one<br />
best suits your needs.<br />
Synthetic: These used to be the underdogs of the<br />
insulated jackets, but as technology has improved<br />
so has the ability to imitate what nature provides.<br />
Synthetic fill jackets now are able to imitate the<br />
properties of down and yet remain water resistant<br />
enabling you to use your jacket in wet conditions.<br />
The downside in the past has been the warmth-toweight<br />
ratio, however, new synthetic insulation, seen<br />
in some of the high-end technical jackets have been<br />
engineered to resemble to warmth-to-weight ratios of<br />
down, and others have developed synthetic fill that is<br />
able to breathe in high-output activities.<br />
62//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
ab Xenon 2.0 Jacket $279.95<br />
An all-mountain lightweight, synthetic insulated<br />
jacket using 100% post-consumer recycled<br />
PrimaLoft® Silver insulation and a weather<br />
resistant recycled Pertex® Quantam outer.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
patagonia Micro Puff® Jacket $399.99<br />
The best warmth for weight of any jacket Patagonia has ever<br />
built, the Micro Puff® Jacket delivers ultralightweight, waterresistant,<br />
down-like warmth with PlumaFill synthetic insulation<br />
– a revolutionary material that replicates the structure of down,<br />
offering the same warmth and packability but with the warmwhen-wet<br />
performance of synthetic insulation. This jacket is<br />
also Fair Trade Certified sewn, which means the people<br />
who made it earned a premium for their labour. It's available in<br />
men's and women's cuts, and a range of colours.<br />
WWW.PATAGONIA.CO.NZ<br />
Marmot Men’s Solus Jacket $299.95<br />
3M Thinsulate Recycled Featherless Jacket.<br />
Made with 75% recycled loose-fill fibres. As warm as<br />
700 fill power down, and maintains performance in<br />
wet conditions.<br />
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />
Wool/synthetic:<br />
Wool has always been considered one of the best<br />
forms of insulation and this is now being used in<br />
insulated jackets. With a high warmth-to-weight ratio<br />
and its ability to performs well when wet, it’s being<br />
used in a variety of insulated jackets. The downside<br />
to wool is simply that it doesn’t reduce in size when<br />
packed.<br />
icebreaker Women's MerinoLoft Helix Jacket $399.99<br />
A technical lofted jacket made with sustainable<br />
merino wool and recycled materials, the Helix Jacket<br />
is a warm winter outer layer for everyday versatility.<br />
WWW.ICEBREAKER.COM<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//63
Down: Down jackets were always<br />
considered the penultimate in<br />
insulation. The down (usually geese<br />
or duck) has an incredibly high<br />
warmth-to-weight ratio and is the<br />
best insulator (pound-for-pound) in<br />
the world. It’s lightweight and packs<br />
down incredibly small.<br />
The main downside of the downfilled<br />
jackets is that they lose their<br />
heat retaining ability if they get wet.<br />
This has been counteracted with<br />
the development of water-resistant<br />
down. This is simply down treated<br />
with a water-resistant coating at<br />
a molecular level. Because the<br />
coating is applied at a micro scale<br />
it adds little weight and does not<br />
affect the loft.<br />
What is fill power? When looking<br />
at down jackets you want to take<br />
note of their “fill power”. This shows<br />
the quality of the down; the higher<br />
the number, the more volume the<br />
down will occupy. A 500-600 range<br />
fill will require more down (making it<br />
feel heavier and bulkier) to achieve<br />
the same warmth as a 800-900 fill.<br />
Baffles:<br />
These help maintain an even<br />
distribution of your fill and prevent<br />
the material from gathering at the<br />
bottom of your jacket.<br />
Wide baffles provide the warmest<br />
option, although they can<br />
sometimes feel bulky, whereas<br />
narrow baffles tend to compress<br />
the jacket more and therefore work<br />
well underneath a waterproof outer<br />
layer and are easy to pack up.<br />
The baffles have been designed<br />
to create real style and shape but<br />
if you are looking for warmth then<br />
you may want to consider the box<br />
wall stitched baffles as opposed<br />
to the stitch-through style. Stitchthrough<br />
keeps the insulation evenly<br />
spread, however the fact that it<br />
is stitched through the jacket can<br />
cause heat to be lost where the<br />
stitching is made, whereas the box<br />
wall stitching allows maximum loft<br />
and designed to prevent heat loss.<br />
Shell materials:<br />
The outer material will also depend<br />
on the use of your jacket. Some<br />
are completely waterproof, some<br />
water resistant and others not really<br />
designed for wet conditions.<br />
I have three insulated jackets in<br />
my wardrobe: One a classic down<br />
fill vest with durable waterproof<br />
resistant coating from Huffer with<br />
wide stitch-through baffles that I<br />
wear almost daily in the winter with<br />
jeans.<br />
One down-filled water-resistant<br />
jacket from RAB, super lightweight<br />
but super warm is my go-to when I<br />
am anywhere near the snow. I also<br />
take it hiking and it creates a great<br />
pillow when in its stuff sack.<br />
My other go-to is a featherless<br />
Insulation jacket from Marmot,<br />
which has a super stylish cut<br />
and cool baffle design. It’s warm<br />
enough to wear during the height of<br />
winter but stylish and compactable<br />
enough fit in any bag and not take<br />
up too much room.<br />
Marmot Women’s Highlander Hoody $449.95<br />
Pertex Quantum® fabric offers wind<br />
protection while also maximising the<br />
efficiency and warmth of 700-fillpower-down<br />
insulation. Lightweight<br />
and compressible.<br />
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />
rab Cubit Stretch Down Vest $349.95<br />
Lightweight, packable and perfect<br />
for everyday wear, the Cubit Vest<br />
is cosy, stylish, stretchy, highly<br />
functional and gives new life to<br />
quality down.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
outdoor research Helium Down Hoody $449.99<br />
Durable, abrasion-resistant Pertex® Quantum, 800+ fill<br />
goose down. A waterproof version of Pertex® Shield with<br />
Diamond Fuse fabric adds weather protection to the hood and<br />
shoulders. Available in men's and women's specific versions.<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
64//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
INSULATED....<br />
rab Cubit Stretch Down Hoody $499.95<br />
A functional, everyday wind-resistant<br />
and lightweight stretch down jacket<br />
filled with 700FP P.U.R.E recycled<br />
down and Pertex® 3D Weave outer.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
Marmot Men’s Hype Down Hoody $649.95<br />
800-fill-power down provides exceptional<br />
warmth, loft, and compactibility. Pertex<br />
Quantum® fabric protects from wind and<br />
improves the efficiency of insulation.<br />
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ<br />
rab Microlight Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />
Rab’s classic lightweight highly packable,<br />
multi-purpose down jacket is an everyday<br />
jacket and mountain layer featuring a fully<br />
recycled shell, insulation and lining.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
rab Valiance Jacket $699.95<br />
The ultimate warm and waterproof down<br />
jacket made from durable, waterproof<br />
Pertex® outer and filled with the highest<br />
quality 800 fill hydrophobic down, keeping<br />
you warm throughout the winter.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
outdoor research Coldfront Down Jacket $349.99<br />
700+ fill power of responsibly-sourced-down insulation,<br />
85%-recycled VerticalX ECO insulation on the top of the<br />
shoulders and in the cuffs for increased weather resistance and<br />
a 53%-recycled ripstop exterior to block wind and resist rain and<br />
snow. Features include internal wrist gaiters with thumb loops.<br />
Available in men's and women's specific versions.<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
Marmot Women’s Featherless Jacket $399.95<br />
Lightweight 3M Thinsulate Recycled<br />
Featherless Jacket. Made with 75% recycled<br />
loose-fill fibres. As warm as 700 fill power down,<br />
and maintains performance in wet conditions.<br />
WWW.MARMOTNZ.CO.NZ
MID & SHELLS....<br />
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Shell $549.99<br />
A high-output piece designed to move and breathe<br />
with you, the Dawn Patrol Shell is the embodiment<br />
of durability. Designed with four-way stretch and<br />
double weave fabric, quick movements, banger uphill<br />
laps and light weather are all covered. Men’s and<br />
Women’s available.<br />
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />
Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody $179.99<br />
The Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro Hoody offers<br />
ultimate sun coverage as well as water resistance for<br />
mountain missions with unpredictable weather.<br />
Men’s and Women’s available.<br />
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ<br />
rab Xenair Alpine Jacket $399.95<br />
An adaptable synthetic highly<br />
breathable, weather resistant<br />
insulated hoody perfect for<br />
alpine adventures. Made with<br />
Pertex® Quantum Air outer<br />
and insulated with PrimaLoft®<br />
Gold insulation.<br />
WWW.OUTFITTERS.NET.NZ<br />
outdoor research snowcrew Jacket $399.99<br />
Designed for skiers and snowboarders, delivering<br />
performance, warmth and style with a 56%-recycled<br />
shell fabric and 85%-recycled insulation. Features<br />
an adjustable hood with a wire brim that fits most<br />
snowsports helmets, pit zips for ventilation, a<br />
powder skirt, fore-arm ski pass pocket and a doubleseparating<br />
front zip.<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
outdoor research Archangel GORE-TEX Bibs $999.99<br />
3-layer GORE-TEX® Pro and full mobility with 3-layer<br />
GORE-TEX® Pro Stretch panels where you need<br />
them - on the knees, lower back and crotch gusset.<br />
Features include top to bottom zips, adjustable<br />
venting and cuff size adjustments to fit climbing or ski<br />
touring boots.<br />
WWW.BIVOUAC.CO.NZ<br />
66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong><br />
Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid pants $479.99<br />
Designed with a single-minded focus on<br />
highly efficient mountain travel, the Dawn<br />
Patrol Pants are the quintessential highoutput<br />
touring pants. Men’s and Women’s<br />
available.<br />
WWW.SOUTHERNAPPROACH.CO.NZ
icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Long Sleeve<br />
Half ZipT-Shirt $449.99<br />
A versatile, body-mapped zipneck<br />
top that’s ideal for highoutput<br />
mountain adventures,<br />
the ZoneKnitLong Sleeve<br />
Half Zip features 100% merino<br />
wool for all-natural warmth and<br />
temperature regulation.<br />
WWW.ICEBREAKER.CO.NZ<br />
Icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Insulated Vest $399.99<br />
A body-mapped performance vest that’s ideal for<br />
high-output mountain adventures, the ZoneKnit<br />
Insulated Vest features 100% merino wool for allnatural<br />
warmth and temperature regulation.<br />
WWW.ICEBREAKER.CO.NZ<br />
icebreaker ZoneKnit Merino Short Sleeve T-Shirt $119.99<br />
Our most breathable and lightweight tee for highexertion<br />
activities, the ZoneKnit Short Sleeve Tee<br />
features a clean design with mesh panels to help<br />
regulate your body temperature.<br />
WWW.ICEBREAKER.CO.NZ<br />
GEAR FOR EVERY ADVENTURER<br />
www.marmotnz.co.nz
MACPAC'S PERRENIAL FAVOURITES...<br />
UBER LIGHT RANGE – THE JUST IN CASE LAYER<br />
Range includes – Jackets, vests and<br />
women’s coats. Kids’ jackets available<br />
too.<br />
True to its name, the Uber Light Range<br />
provides lightweight warmth without<br />
the bulk. It's designed to be a versatile<br />
mid or outer layer — depending on the<br />
weather — and it's filled with 650 loft<br />
RDS duck down for cosy warmth. The<br />
lightweight nylon outer features a water<br />
repellent finish to help protect against<br />
moisture, while the elastic bound hem<br />
and cuffs help to trap heat inside the<br />
jacket to keep you warmer. The Uber is<br />
perfect for layering up this season.<br />
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS)<br />
is an independent, voluntary global<br />
standard in the ethical sourcing of down<br />
and feathers. All Macpac down is 100%<br />
RDS certified.<br />
Features:<br />
• 650 loft Responsible Down<br />
Standard duck down<br />
• Lightweight nylon shell with water<br />
repellent treatment<br />
• Elastic bound hem and cuffs<br />
• Zipped hand pockets<br />
• Packs into tiny stuff sack (included)<br />
PRICING FROM $159.99 - $289.99<br />
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />
HALO DOWN RANGE – A REMASTERED CLASSIC<br />
Range includes – Jackets and vests<br />
The Halo range balances warmth and<br />
versatility. This jacket is a great option<br />
for wearing around town, around the<br />
hills, and around the campsite.<br />
Its combination of 100% recycled<br />
fabrics and 600 loft RDS duck down<br />
provides plenty of feel good warmth.<br />
An adjustable hood, hem and cuffs help<br />
trap heat in, and a PFC-free WR finish<br />
encourages water to bead and roll off<br />
the fabric's surface.<br />
They have also updated a few features<br />
to modernise the style, as well as<br />
increasing the size of the internal<br />
pocket. This removes the need for a<br />
separate stuff sack because now you<br />
can pack the jacket in there instead.<br />
Features:<br />
• Internal draft tubes<br />
• Zipped hand pockets<br />
• Tricot lining on collar and hand<br />
pockets<br />
• Adjustable cuffs, hood and hems<br />
• Packs into internal pocket<br />
• Regular fit<br />
PRICING FROM $229.99 - $299.99<br />
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ<br />
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GLERUPS BLACK RUBBER BOOT CHARCOAL $199.00<br />
Want to discover the comfiness and softness of 100%<br />
felted wool? Try glerups. Over time glerups will mould<br />
to your feet for all-day comfort. Available in slipper,<br />
shoe and boot with a leather or rubber sole.<br />
glerups is your best adventure accessory.<br />
WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ<br />
SALEWA WILDFIRE LEATHER $299.90<br />
The Wildfire Leather is ideal for everyday use, yet provides<br />
the support and stability required for hiking to light climbing.<br />
The high-quality, 1.4mm suede upper is supported by a<br />
protective rubber rand. Underfoot, the POMOCA® Speed<br />
MTN Path outsole has been developed to ensure versatile<br />
grip and sure-footed contact.<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $299.90<br />
The Alp Trainer 2 is a low-cut alpine hiking and trekking<br />
shoe built for enhanced performance and control in a wide<br />
spectrum of mountain terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede<br />
leather upper ensures good comfort and protection and<br />
is further reinforced with a full 360° rubber rand to see off<br />
rock and scree.<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $349.90<br />
The Alp Trainer 2 GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric upper<br />
with a protective rubber rand for protection against rock, scree and<br />
debris. Featuring a GORE-TEX® Extended Comfort lining for optimal<br />
waterproofing and breathability. The EVA midsole provides superior<br />
cushioning and excellent comfort for a technical shoe.<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90<br />
The Alp Trainer 2 Mid GTX has a suede leather and stretch fabric<br />
upper with a protective rubber rand. Featuring a GORE-TEX®<br />
Extended Comfort lining for optimal waterproofing and breathability.<br />
The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers<br />
allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot.<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90<br />
Made for alpine hiking and long backpacking routes – our<br />
lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well<br />
on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-<br />
TEX® lining makes it ideal for 3-season use, from higher activity<br />
levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.<br />
WWW.BOBO.CO.NZ/SALEWA<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//69
gasmate Alpine Butane Stove $79.99<br />
With a vaporisation tube for consistent<br />
performance at altitude, the Alpine stove is<br />
ideal for extended backcountry and alpine<br />
use. Lightweight at 450g with 11,850 BTUs of<br />
cooking power.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set<br />
$149.00<br />
For quick boiling when you need it! A<br />
super lightweight aluminium stove with<br />
quick boil technology, piezo ignition<br />
and accessories all packaged in a<br />
handy mesh carry bag.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Kiwi Camping Mamaku Pro -5°C Sleeping Bag<br />
$129.00<br />
The Mamaku Pro -5°C sleeping bag provides<br />
exceptional warmth on cold adventures. The<br />
semi-tapered design features a drawstringadjustable<br />
contoured hood that packs down<br />
into the handy compression bag for easy pack<br />
and carry.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping Bag<br />
$119.00<br />
The Mamaku Trek 0°C is perfect for lightweight<br />
hiking with a semi-tapered design and drawstring<br />
adjustable hood. Complete with thermal lining and<br />
YKK zippers.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Rumpl Original Puffy Blanket - Geo $179.99<br />
The Original Puffy Blanket combines<br />
the same technical materials found in<br />
premium sleeping bags and insulated<br />
jackets to keep you cosy indoors and out.<br />
WWW.RUMPL.CO.NZ<br />
local dehy kumera chickpea curry<br />
$16.50<br />
Mildly spiced Indian curry with<br />
spinach & brown rice. Refuel after<br />
a day's adventure! Dehydrated.<br />
Vegan. Home compostable<br />
packaging.<br />
WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ<br />
local dehy hummus $7.00<br />
Roasted Red Pepper & Sundried<br />
Tomato, also available in Beetroot<br />
and Zesty Lemon. Perfect for lunches<br />
on the trail. Dehydrated. Vegan.<br />
Home compostable packaging.<br />
WWW.LOCALDEHY.CO.NZ<br />
kiwi camping Boost LED Light with<br />
Power Bank $89.99<br />
Bright LED light with power bank to<br />
illuminate your tent and charge devices<br />
on the go. Features 11 light modes<br />
including SOS signal, built-in magnets<br />
and hanging hook.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
Mr Heater Portable Buddy $339.00<br />
Portable Buddy is a propane gas heater that<br />
is both lightweight and robust heating up to<br />
18m². Featuring a low oxygen and accidental<br />
tip-over safety shut-off.<br />
WWW.KIWICAMPING.CO.NZ<br />
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sunsaver classic 16,000 mah solar power<br />
bank $119.00<br />
Built tough for the outdoors and with a<br />
massive battery capacity you can keep all<br />
your devices charged no matter where your<br />
adventure takes you.<br />
WWW.SUNSAVER.CO.NZ<br />
TIRED<br />
LEGS?<br />
TRY OUR NEW<br />
APPLE & BERRY<br />
CRUMBLE<br />
DESSERT.<br />
deepcreek local ipa $3.79<br />
With only 93 calories per can,<br />
this mid-strength, refreshing, low<br />
calorie IPA is the perfect beer for<br />
the active lifestyle!<br />
WWW.DCBREWING.CO.NZ<br />
KEA KIT: Outdoor Survival System<br />
Be fully prepared for your next adventure<br />
with KEA KIT. The compact, modular and<br />
durable survival kit that includes everything<br />
you need & nothing you don’t.<br />
WWW.KEAOUTDOORS.COM<br />
hydro flask 12L Carry Out Soft<br />
Cooler 249.99<br />
Colder. Longer. Lighter. The<br />
perfect compact size to bring a<br />
little or a lot along for the day.<br />
Keeps items fresh for up to 24<br />
hours.<br />
WWW.HYDROFLASK.CO.NZ<br />
backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />
<br />
<br />
Shackleton Blended Malt Scotch<br />
Born from <strong>Adventure</strong>: Shackleton Blended<br />
Malt Scotch is based on the spirit supplied to<br />
the 1907 British Antarctic Expedition, expertly<br />
crafted using a selection of the finest Highland<br />
Single Malt Scotch Whiskies. Available at<br />
various Liquor Retailers .<br />
WWW.GLENGARRYWINES.CO.NZ<br />
JÄGERMEISTER COLD BREW COFFEE<br />
Inspired by the innovative,<br />
everchanging drinks scene,<br />
we instinctively knew how a<br />
drop of Jägermeister and a<br />
backbeat of cold brew coffee<br />
could transform any night. The<br />
enviable result? A brand-new<br />
mix. JÄGERMEISTER COLD<br />
BREW COFFEE. A unique<br />
fusion of JÄGERMEISTER’s<br />
56 botanicals and intense cold<br />
brew coffee.<br />
WWW.LIQUORLAND.CO.NZ
BACK COUNTRY CUISINE:<br />
The first thing you’ll notice is that the front label on their pouches have changed for the better<br />
by adding Health Star Ratings and energy, protein, fat and carbs per pouch. They have also<br />
improved the readability of our back labels.Back Country Cuisine is available at leading retailers.<br />
For more information or to find your nearest stockist visit: www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />
Quest bike trailers $1495 inc GST<br />
Designed and engineered<br />
in the Southern Alps of New<br />
Zealand, it will take you on<br />
and off the road carrying all<br />
the necessities to have a great<br />
time exploring our beautiful<br />
cycle trails or on that epic<br />
overseas adventure.<br />
WWW.QUESTBIKETRAILERS.COM<br />
aleck 006<br />
Universal Wireless Helmet Audio<br />
& Communication Aleck 006 is the<br />
bluetooth drop-in system that puts<br />
your soundtrack into your snow helmet<br />
and keeps you connected to friends<br />
and family with easy, push-to-talk<br />
communication.<br />
WWW.ALECK.IO<br />
tasty chicken mash $9.49 - $13.99<br />
With smoky flavoured freeze dried chicken,<br />
cheese and vegetables.<br />
3.5 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />
Available small serve (90g) or regular (175g)<br />
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />
Apple & Berry Crumble $13.19<br />
A sweet mix of freeze dried apples and<br />
berries topped with a delicious gluten free<br />
cookie crumb.<br />
3 Health Stars - Gluten Free<br />
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ<br />
INSTANT PASTA $4.89<br />
Just add boiling water for perfectly cooked<br />
pasta.<br />
3.5 Health Stars<br />
Sizes – Family 120g<br />
WWW.BACKCOUNTRYCUISINE.CO.NZ
FEED YOUR ADDICTION<br />
Like a ‘perfect storm’, we have seen a dramatic growth and<br />
development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are<br />
made to keep our ‘distance’, online, ecommerce takes on a whole<br />
new meaning and value. We are dedicating these pages to our client’s<br />
online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able<br />
drool over. Buy, compare, research and prepare, these online stores are<br />
a great way to feed your adventure addiction while you are still at home.<br />
Never have a dead phone<br />
again! Because now you can<br />
charge straight from the Sun<br />
with SunSaver. Perfect for<br />
that week-long hike, day at<br />
the beach, or back-up for any<br />
emergency. Check us out at:<br />
www.sunsaver.co.nz<br />
Experts at adventure travel since 2000<br />
We live what we sell!<br />
www.madabouttravel.co.nz<br />
www.adventuresouth.co.nz<br />
Whether you enjoy<br />
cycle trails, road<br />
cycling, mountain<br />
biking or walking,<br />
<strong>Adventure</strong> South NZ<br />
can help you to explore<br />
New Zealand at<br />
your own pace.<br />
Our motto is “Going the<br />
distance” and we pride<br />
ourselves on providing top<br />
quality outdoor and travel<br />
equipment and service<br />
that will go the distance<br />
with you, wherever that<br />
may be.<br />
www.trekntravel.co.nz<br />
Gear up in a wide selection of durable, multifunctional<br />
outdoor clothing & gear. Free Returns. Free Shipping.<br />
www.patagonia.co.nz<br />
Stocking an extensive range<br />
of global outdoor adventure<br />
brands for your next big<br />
adventure. See them for travel,<br />
tramping, trekking, alpine and<br />
lifestyle clothing and gear.<br />
www.outfittersstore.nz<br />
Specialists in the sale of Outdoor Camping Equipment, RV,<br />
Tramping & Travel Gear. Camping Tents, <strong>Adventure</strong> Tents,<br />
Packs, Sleeping Bags and more.<br />
www.equipoutdoors.co.nz<br />
Our Mission<br />
To bring like-minded adventurers together for epic journey’s<br />
fuelled by top-notch coffee. All while supporting the things<br />
we care about and restoring nature.<br />
www.epiccoffee.co.nz<br />
Our very own online store where<br />
you will find hard goods to keep you<br />
equipped for any adventure.<br />
www.pacificmedia-shop.co.nz
Ultra lightweight running shoes, made by runners. No<br />
matter where the trail takes you, Hoka One One will<br />
have you covered.<br />
www.hokaoneone.co.nz<br />
PACKRAFT NZ<br />
Unlock your adventure horizon with Packraft New Zealand.<br />
Online supplier of Kokopelli packrafts, accessories and<br />
adventure inspiration. Shop online or contact us for expert<br />
advice for everything packrafting; hike-raft, bike-raft, hunt-raft,<br />
whitewater, fishing, canyoneering, urban and travel.<br />
www.packraftnewzealand.co.nz<br />
Bivouac Outdoor stock the latest in quality outdoor<br />
clothing, footwear and equipment from the best<br />
brands across New Zealand & the globe.<br />
www.bivouac.co.nz<br />
Shop for the widest range of Merrell footwear, apparel<br />
& accessories across hiking, trail running, sandals &<br />
casual styles. Free shipping for a limited time.<br />
www.merrell.co.nz<br />
Whether you’re climbing mountains, hiking in the hills<br />
or travelling the globe, Macpac gear is made to last<br />
and engineered to perform — proudly designed and<br />
tested in New Zealand since 1973.<br />
www.macpac.co.nz<br />
Living Simply is an outdoor clothing and equipment<br />
specialty store in Newmarket, Auckland. Your go-to place<br />
for quality footwear, packs, sleeping bags, tents, outdoor<br />
clothing and more.<br />
www.livingsimply.co.nz<br />
Offering the widest variety,<br />
best tasting, and most<br />
nutrient rich hydration,<br />
energy, and recovery<br />
products on the market.<br />
www.guenergy.co.nz<br />
Fast nourishing freeze dried food for adventurers.<br />
www.backcountrycuisine.co.nz<br />
Jetboil builds super-dependable<br />
backpacking stoves and camping<br />
systems that pack light,<br />
set up quick, and achieve<br />
rapid boils in minutes.<br />
www.jetboilnz.co.nz<br />
Supplying tents and<br />
camping gear to Kiwis<br />
for over 30 years, Kiwi<br />
Camping are proud to<br />
be recognised as one of<br />
the most trusted outdoor<br />
brands in New Zealand.<br />
www.kiwicamping.co.nz<br />
With stores in Clyde and<br />
Cromwell, Bike it Now! is<br />
your access point to the<br />
Central Otago Bike trials: T<br />
> Lake Dunstan Trail<br />
> Otago Central Rail Trail<br />
> Roxbourgh Gorge<br />
and more...<br />
www.bikeitnow.co.nz<br />
Excellent quality Outdoor<br />
Gear at prices that can't<br />
be beaten. End of lines.<br />
Ex Demos. Samples. Last<br />
season. Bearpaw. Garneau.<br />
Ahnu. Superfeet.<br />
www.adventureoutlet.co.nz
t r a v e l<br />
FIJI<br />
DESTINATION ADVENTURE<br />
Fiji has for centuries been the<br />
quintessential South Pacific tourist<br />
destination for beaches and cocktails<br />
by the pool. Sure, Fiji has all that, but<br />
there is so much more; with such a<br />
unique position in the South Pacific<br />
and an array of beaches, crystal<br />
shallow water, vast oceans, rivers and<br />
mountains. Fiji has everything to offer<br />
those looking for an island adventure.<br />
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Exploring an isolated cave, Fiji
Clockwise from top left: Surfing Cloudbreak, one of the many spots to surf in Fiji / Mount Tomaniivi Summit (aka Mt. Victoria) - Fiji's highest<br />
mountain - on the Cross-Island hike with Talanoa Treks. / Sigatoka Sand Dunes Sunset<br />
Fishing<br />
With Fiji having some of the most<br />
incredible marine life globally, Fishing<br />
is slowly becoming a popular sport in<br />
the island nation. With such a dense<br />
underwater eco-system, the oceans<br />
of Fiji offer everything from Tuna and<br />
Marlin to Wahoo, Walu and Mahi Mahi,<br />
there’s plenty to catch that will challenge<br />
even the most seasoned fisherman.<br />
Although Fiji’s tropical waters house<br />
fish throughout the year, some types<br />
are more plentiful at certain times than<br />
others. If you’re looking to catch Mahi<br />
Mahi, you can do so year-round, but<br />
you’ll find them in abundance from<br />
December through to February and<br />
again July through to August. Giant<br />
Trevally flock Fiji’s waters around<br />
February through to April, Wahoo from<br />
July through to August, Blue Marlin<br />
February through to March and Yellowfin<br />
Tuna making a popular appearance from<br />
March to April<br />
On Namotu, Big Game Fishing is<br />
something not to miss. While people<br />
generally come for the surf, they can’t<br />
help but take some time out to try their<br />
hand at fishing and have a freshly<br />
caught fish for dinner when they return.<br />
Half Cast Charters, operated through<br />
Volivoli Beach Resort offers some of<br />
Fiji’s best Big Game Fishing on The<br />
Bligh waters. The waters between the<br />
islands of Viti Levu where the resort<br />
is located, and Vanua Levu combined<br />
with depth and reef structure allows for<br />
amazing sports and game fishing. It’s<br />
hard to resist the chance to relax on the<br />
open waters with a cold one as you wait<br />
for a bite.<br />
Dive into happiness<br />
Dive into some of the world’s most<br />
beautiful and colourful network of 10359<br />
square kilometres of coral reef, including<br />
the world-famous Great Astrolabe Reef.<br />
With more than 1000 species of fish<br />
and several hundred sorts of coral and<br />
sponges, Fiji offers an abundance of<br />
unique diving snorkelling experiences.<br />
You can even get up close and personal<br />
with some of the oceans friendly giants<br />
if you go at the right time of year – you<br />
can swim with Manta Rays or Hawksbill<br />
Turtles.<br />
Located between the second and third<br />
largest islands of Fiji, Vanua Levi and<br />
Taveuni, Rainbow Reef offers a display<br />
of vibrant colours under the water,<br />
provided by the hard and soft corals and<br />
marine life that call the area home.<br />
There are around 230 hard and soft<br />
corals creating a feast for the eyes. With<br />
the fantastical beauty, it’s no wonder that<br />
this is one of the top diving destinations<br />
in the world. Plunging your face beneath<br />
the surface of these warm waters, you’re<br />
bound to forget the world above sea<br />
level for a few breathless moments.<br />
Discover Fiji by foot (or dune buggie)<br />
Fiji isn’t just white sand beaches,<br />
although there are plenty of those<br />
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Clockwise from top left: Beautiful beaches await / Aerial of the Wainibau waterfall at the end of the Lavena Coastal Walk. Bouma National<br />
Heritage Park, Taveuni / Underwater image of lady freediving and spearfishing near Savasi<br />
too! From stunning waterfalls, lush<br />
tropical rain forests, rugged coastline<br />
and dramatic mountain tops, there’s<br />
so much to explore by foot. There is a<br />
reason why Taveuni is referred to as the<br />
‘Garden Island’ of Fiji—80% of the island<br />
is covered by tropical rainforests, along<br />
with natural rockslides and ancient lava<br />
flow. Then there’s the Sigatoka Sand<br />
Dunes, whose rolling sand dunes are<br />
something straight out of Arabian nights!<br />
Challenge yourself and climb the<br />
highest mountain in Fiji, Mt Tomaniivi<br />
(Mt Victoria). The best way to tackle<br />
the mountain is with Talanoa Treks on<br />
their overnight excursion. Walk through<br />
some magnificent cloud forest to reach<br />
the summit at 1,323m. On a clear day,<br />
you will have some amazing views<br />
across Viti Levu. Be rewarded at the end<br />
with afternoon tea and a dip in the river<br />
before heading back to the coast.<br />
Get yourself on Fiji’s only self-drive<br />
dune buggies on a guided tour with<br />
Terratrek. Discover Fiji’s most beautiful<br />
waterfalls and rainforests or head up into<br />
the mountains for panoramic views with<br />
outlooks on the Pacific Ocean.<br />
Explore the secret spots of Fiji<br />
Ditch the pool side lounge chair and sign<br />
up for an adventure you’ll never forget!<br />
Whether it’s kayaking or rafting on the<br />
Navua River, jet boating up the Sigatoka<br />
River or zip-lining through tropical<br />
rainforests, there are adventures for<br />
everyone of any age.<br />
Described as an ‘underwater cathedral’,<br />
the Sawa-I-Lau Caves in the northern<br />
Yasawa Islands are a must-do when<br />
visiting Fiji. Sculpted by centuries of<br />
wave erosion eating away at limestone,<br />
you’ll be absolutely blown away by the<br />
spectacular natural architecture right in<br />
front of you. Sunlight streams down into<br />
the Pantheon-esque cave – the roof of<br />
the cave soars over 15 metres above<br />
the water. Guides from the local village<br />
are available to take you through an<br />
underwater passage to reach a secret<br />
adjoining chamber – all you’ll need is the<br />
right gear, and a reasonable helping of<br />
courage.<br />
Hang loose on the waves<br />
Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, there<br />
are plenty of waves to catch in Fiji. For<br />
those after leisurely longboard breaks,<br />
head to Natadola Beach on the Coral<br />
Coast. But for those wanting to put their<br />
skills to the test, have a go at what the<br />
locals call ‘Thunder Reef’, Kelly Slater’s<br />
favourite, Cloudbreak the Mamanuca<br />
Islands. If you want to watch the drama<br />
from afar, there are many boats that take<br />
you out to watch the action on the waves<br />
with a cold one in hand. For those<br />
wanting an all-inclusive surf holiday, stay<br />
at Namotu Island Surf Resort , which is<br />
located near many famous breaks and<br />
offer yoga and massages to help you<br />
recover after a big day on the waves.<br />
To find out more visit www.fiji.travel<br />
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//79
t r a v e l<br />
NIUE<br />
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE<br />
The South Pacific island of Niue is one of<br />
the smallest countries in the world, on one<br />
of the largest raised coral atolls on earth<br />
and it prides itself on being ‘special’.<br />
Niue and its people have won numerous<br />
awards for environmental programmes and<br />
sustainability, and it’s uniquely not just for<br />
the tourists. The whole community is on<br />
board and involved with looking after and<br />
maintaining Niue’s unique aspects both<br />
above and below the water.<br />
The absence of surface running water such<br />
as streams and creeks contributes to the<br />
island’s pristine crystal-clear surrounding<br />
ocean, the clarity of which is unforgettable.<br />
With no lagoon or fringing reef, the steep<br />
drop-off is just meters from the land, pelagic<br />
migratory fish such as yellow-fin tuna and<br />
wahoo, which are normally deep-sea fish<br />
are caught no more than two hundred<br />
metres from shore and are in abundance.<br />
I personally have fished all over the South<br />
Pacific and there is nowhere like Niue!<br />
When Captain Cook first visited Niue<br />
he tried to land three times but gave up<br />
because he thought that the natives who<br />
came to greet them were painted in blood.<br />
(The locals in fact had eaten a native red<br />
banana, called the hula-hula.)<br />
Niue island is pristinely clean and those that<br />
do live there take great pride in their island,<br />
and unlike what Captain Cook thought they<br />
could not be more welcoming to visitors.<br />
For such a small atoll there is plenty to do:<br />
When you go to Niue you can swim with<br />
spinner dolphins and see whales close up in<br />
season. It must be the only island that has<br />
an honesty bar. You can visit the smallest<br />
yacht club in the world, catch an Uga<br />
[coconut crab], or snorkel in warm, safe rock<br />
pools teeming with colourful fish.<br />
E<br />
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What is unique about Niue as an island<br />
is its isolation and its coral origins that<br />
create a unique coastline. The whole<br />
island is dotted with a myriad of caves,<br />
sheltered rocky coves, chasms and secret<br />
beaches. The Huval Rainforest is home<br />
to stunning indigenous trees and these<br />
have been designated as a Conservation<br />
Area to protect and conserve the island’s<br />
primary rainforest.<br />
One of the most famous chasms, is<br />
the Matapa Chasm, in the village of<br />
Hikutavake. An amazing and safe place<br />
to swim and snorkel, encased by steep<br />
cliffs overhanging a deep long cool pool<br />
and as always full of fish. It is next to the<br />
open ocean but isolated from its currents<br />
by large boulders on the seaward side<br />
creating a natural swimming pool.<br />
Another well-photographed feature of<br />
the island is Talava Arches. A massive<br />
rock archway noted by Captain Cook<br />
in the late 1700’s, it is surrounded by a<br />
network of complex caves. As with most<br />
of Niue, there is good tourist access, but<br />
it is natural, you need to wear good shoes<br />
and stick to the created paths.<br />
Apart from simply exploring Niue, you can<br />
also go kayaking, biking, fishing, diving<br />
(Niue Blue dive company offers PADI<br />
certified dives). Niue is distinct from all<br />
the other South Pacific islands because<br />
there are no beaches as such. But there<br />
are kilometres of coastline to explore.<br />
There is locally available a map that not<br />
only tells you how to get to a range of<br />
amazing caves and chasms but also tells<br />
you what tides are best for exploring each<br />
of them (by my own experience it pays to<br />
do your homework).<br />
Niue is walking the talk on environmental<br />
protection with the creation of the ‘Niue<br />
Nukutuluea Multi-Use Marine Park’. The<br />
Niue Oceanwide project (NOW) has been<br />
a significant part of Niue’s sustainable<br />
development over the last decade. Based<br />
on scientific assessment and thousands<br />
of years of traditional knowledge, Niue<br />
has established 40% of its region as a<br />
‘no-take’ Large Scale Marine Protected<br />
Area (Niue Mona Mahu) which is<br />
significant for a Pacific Island that relies<br />
on fish. More details here about Niue<br />
Marine Park can be found here:<br />
www.niueoceanwide.com<br />
Something new, (but has always been<br />
there) is star gazing, and once again<br />
there is nowhere like Niue. Niue was the<br />
world’s first whole country to become<br />
a ‘Dark Sky Place’, receiving formal<br />
accreditation from the International Dark-<br />
Sky Association (IDA) as an ‘International<br />
Dark Sky Sanctuary’ and ‘International<br />
Dark Sky Community’, covering the whole<br />
of Niue with Dark Sky protection and<br />
deeming it a ‘dark sky nation’.<br />
Niuean’s have a long history of star<br />
navigation and visitors to Niue can view<br />
the spectacle of an unspoilt night sky.<br />
Guided Astro-tours are led by trained<br />
Niuean community members. Niue’s<br />
viewing sites currently used for whalewatching,<br />
are also ideal spots for Dark<br />
Sky viewing. More details here:<br />
www.niueisland.com/darkskynation<br />
The list of what Niue has on offer to<br />
experience and to do is long!<br />
BORDER OPENING / WEEKLY<br />
FLIGHTS FROM NZ:<br />
Niue's border with NZ reopens, and<br />
weekly flights from Auckland commence<br />
from Tuesday 28 June 2022.<br />
JUST 3 ½ HOURS AWAY: Although<br />
Niue is a world apart, the island is just<br />
a 3 ½ hour flight on Air New Zealand<br />
departing each Tuesday morning (but<br />
check online as the day of week could<br />
change).<br />
AVOID THE CROWDS: With a land<br />
area of 260sq. kms there is space for<br />
you here. When out exploring you often<br />
feel like you are the first one to discover<br />
the many secluded coves, caves and<br />
pools.<br />
Niue even uses NZ dollars – and<br />
English is spoken universally.<br />
To find out more visit:<br />
www.niueisland.com<br />
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Real explorers,<br />
Real Niue.<br />
Niue’s borders reopen 28 June 2022.<br />
Your average traveller won’t be able to tell you where Niue is on a map – which is<br />
why you won’t find the average traveller in Niue. What you will find is the world’s<br />
largest raised coral atoll; unspoilt, majestic and waiting for you to explore.<br />
Start exploring Niue today, www.niueisland.com
t r a v e l<br />
THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI<br />
A WAVE RICH PARADISE<br />
Images by Steve Dickinson<br />
As with most iconic surf destinations, it is only the<br />
perfect days or the outrageous days that find their<br />
way into the media.<br />
French Polynesia is an amazing surf destination<br />
for everyone, even on the not so perfect days.<br />
It is about halfway between South America<br />
and Australia, this wave rich part of French<br />
Polynesia’s most notorious islands chain it known<br />
for its crystal-clear water, crisp clean barrels<br />
and the notorious wave of death, Teahupoo<br />
(actually surprisingly only one person has died<br />
here and that was in 2000). Personally, I have<br />
seen Teahupoo at is worst (best) during Code<br />
Red in 2011, when the waves were so huge and<br />
ferocious that the ocean was closed by the local<br />
council to all water activities (known as Code<br />
Red). However, this was ignored by the big wave<br />
surfers of the region, and I was lucky enough to<br />
be there. In a lifetime of photographing surfing,<br />
I have never seen anything even come close to<br />
the magnitude and power of the waves on that<br />
day. But that was a once in a lifetime event, most<br />
days surfing in Tahiti can simply described as<br />
‘mellow fun’.
Previous Page: Teahupoo at its best<br />
Above: A boat is the best way to reach the breaks in Tahiti<br />
Top Right: They start them young in this neck of the woods<br />
Bottom Right: Tikanui Smith at Ta'apuna<br />
Unlike a lot of surf destinations around<br />
the world French Polynesia's locals are<br />
welcoming and friendly. They love the<br />
fact that you have come to share in their<br />
wave abundance and if treated with the<br />
respect you will make local friends in no<br />
time!<br />
French Polynesia is not one island but<br />
actually 118 islands spread across five<br />
archipelagos. Every island has some<br />
sort of wave at some time of the year.<br />
Access to most of the reef passes<br />
require a boat, however, there are<br />
numerous water taxis that will take you<br />
and even homestays (pensions) where<br />
trips out to the local breaks and a surf<br />
guide are all part of the package.<br />
There are a few breaks around the main<br />
city and as you would expect these do<br />
get more crowded, one great break is<br />
Taa’puna; seeing it close enough to<br />
paddle out too and fairly consistent not<br />
to mention only the five minutes from<br />
Papeete, it gets busy.<br />
Further up the coast there is the black<br />
sand beach break of Papara, which is<br />
good for kids and families.<br />
Continue on that same road (there<br />
is only one) and you will arrive at<br />
Teahupoo, which is a very long paddle<br />
but do-able and can get crazy but<br />
normally only when it gets really big.<br />
If it is big and you really just want to<br />
just look, you can pick up a water taxi<br />
from the Teahupoo marina for an hour<br />
viewing.<br />
Unlike beach breaks, which most of us<br />
are used to riding, most of the waves in<br />
French Polynesia are reef based, which<br />
often means they are shallow and if you<br />
fall you don’t bounce off the sand but<br />
get scratched up by the coral. It worth<br />
spending some time watching the locals<br />
to see how to avoid this.<br />
Another issue not often discussed is<br />
water flow. A lot of the reef-based waves<br />
are in a pass. Where water travels from<br />
in the lagoon out to open water and it<br />
can be a lot more like a river than a rip,<br />
once again keep an eye on the locals to<br />
know where to go and where to sit.<br />
Best Surf Seasons in French<br />
Polynesia<br />
March - June: From March to June,<br />
the southern hemisphere comes alive,<br />
putting up consistent south swells that<br />
create some great surf options.<br />
During winter: Once again there is<br />
consistent swell throughout the whole of<br />
winter right up until October.<br />
Spring: As summer arrives things<br />
start to quieten down a little especially<br />
towards the end of October this is also<br />
the rainy season but it’s still warm and if<br />
you want to hunt around there is always<br />
swell somewhere.<br />
Summer: November to March is<br />
basically their summer and surf is<br />
smaller and less consistent.<br />
The bottom line for surf travel is don’t<br />
always make it about the waves. If<br />
you just focus on just the surf, you will<br />
fail to see what an amazing place any<br />
surf destination can be. The trick is to<br />
love where you are and then add great<br />
surf as the cherry on the cake. French<br />
Polynesia has a huge amount to offer<br />
and great waves for everyone are just a<br />
part of the full experience.<br />
To see what is available visit www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/<br />
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ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ//87
Cook Islands.<br />
Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022<br />
Float above the world’s bluest blue<br />
OVERWATER HEAVEN
t r a v e l<br />
VANUATU<br />
THE PLACE FOR YOU!<br />
Life is about Moments! There are<br />
moments that makes use laugh, cry or<br />
change our perspective and open our<br />
eyes and hearts.<br />
The moments we remember are those if<br />
consequence and significance – the ones<br />
we file away in the scrapbooks of our<br />
lives. That’s especially true when it comes<br />
to holidays and probably even more so<br />
now.<br />
A visit to Vanuatu holds the promise<br />
of incredible moments to be made,<br />
remembered and shared. It is these<br />
moments that define our experience and<br />
call us back for another stay.<br />
Vanuatu is not a about a simple list of<br />
things to see and do, but more about<br />
how it makes you feel. Its about moments<br />
that connect us to people, places, and<br />
emotions. When you Answer the Call<br />
of Vanuatu, you’ll be swept away in any<br />
number of incredible moments that will<br />
make you feel good.<br />
After all a holiday isn’t meant to be<br />
taken to seriously: its about letting go<br />
and getting ready to leap into your next<br />
adventure.<br />
We know people are still keen to get out<br />
and experience the world in full colour.<br />
Making connections, experiencing<br />
different, treading lightly, but mostly<br />
jumping into another place entirely both<br />
physically and mentally. It is also clear<br />
that smaller is better when it comes to<br />
fellow travellers.<br />
To be honest this is pretty much the<br />
holiday experience in Vanuatu pre all the<br />
challenges of the past few years, so I<br />
guess we are good are it.<br />
Vanuatu is slowing starting the re-opening<br />
process and over 2022 will gradually<br />
reduce the restrictions and requirements<br />
of entry. This will be a gradual process<br />
linked to vaccination targets.<br />
So, what is it about Vanuatu that will<br />
make it a strong contender for your<br />
holiday shopping list as travel gets freer?<br />
90//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#<strong>232</strong>
Above: Matava River, Santo - Image by Joel Johnsson
1. Get Back to Your Passions: Whether it<br />
be walking, diving, canyoning, or exploring<br />
volcanos now will be the time to get back<br />
to your passions. I am sure you have a<br />
full bucket list of sites to dive or walks to<br />
traverse can we suggest you make sure<br />
that Vanuatu on your list.<br />
There will be some you know about such<br />
as the President Coolidge wreck dive in<br />
Espiritu Santo, but we offer much more<br />
than that without having your fellow diver<br />
right next to you. The coral reefs and<br />
fish life off Tanna are yet to really be<br />
discovered and Hideaway and Tranquillity<br />
Islands are eagerly waiting to do what they<br />
do best.<br />
The remote Island of Gaua offers a 4-day<br />
hike with local guides to the highest<br />
waterfall in Vanuatu, Siri Falls, after<br />
canoeing across Lake Letus. Oh, and did<br />
we mention that you also stride up Mount<br />
Garet the highest peak on the island and<br />
an active volcano.<br />
2. Off the Grid: Do you feel the need to<br />
lose yourself in an environment where few<br />
people venture? Or to hangout in a no fuss<br />
bungalow on the beach or by the side of<br />
a volcano enjoy the hospitality of a local<br />
family who have looked after the land for<br />
forever?<br />
There is no shortage of off the grid<br />
locations and experiences across Vanuatu.<br />
These special locations offer some of the<br />
most relaxing and freeing experiences<br />
as you simply can’t bring your everyday<br />
habits with you.<br />
Imagine: -<br />
• Spending 4 days at Lonnoc Eco Beach<br />
Above: Gaua - Mbe Solomul River<br />
Insert: Tanna Kastom celebrations<br />
Bungalows set in tropical gardens amidst<br />
blue holes, Champagne Beach, and<br />
Lonnoc Beach right in front of you for<br />
swimming and snorkelling.<br />
• Pele Island and its neighbour Nguna<br />
are in MPA Nguna-Pele Marine Protected<br />
Area. The island are a short boat trip<br />
from mainland Efate which transport you<br />
into the truly beautiful location. There<br />
are plenty of island bungalows to choose<br />
from and your daily activities can be<br />
hiking, hammocking, banana boat safaris,<br />
snorkelling or fishing.<br />
• Perched up in a treehouse amongst<br />
the canopy of a banyan tree surround by<br />
birdsong and looking out to the rumblings<br />
of Mount Yasur, one of the worlds most<br />
accessible volcanos, on Tanna Island is<br />
about as off the grid as you can get. Set in<br />
the middle of a local village experiencing<br />
real island life is part of the journey.<br />
Jungle Oasis Bungalows, Banyan Castle<br />
Bungalows or Tanna Yasur Homestay<br />
Bungalows love sharing their connection to<br />
the land and life living next to a volcano.<br />
3. Connection and Kastom: Kastom<br />
is what holds community, family, and<br />
connection together in Vanuatu. It is<br />
unwritten and unspoken but demonstrated<br />
everyday in how things get done. Kastom<br />
respects the land, the people, and the<br />
community.<br />
How can you experience Kastom as a<br />
visitor? Spend some time in the markets,<br />
attend an event such as the Naghol (land<br />
diving) in Pentecost, talk to the Mama’s<br />
with their skilfully made handicrafts or<br />
watch the kids play fearlessly in the water,<br />
lagoons, and Blue Holes. It is part of life in<br />
Vanuatu so really you don’t need to look it<br />
will be part of what makes you let of your<br />
comfort zone but still feel safe.<br />
4. <strong>Adventure</strong>: <strong>Adventure</strong>, the dictionary<br />
definition is and exciting or remarkable<br />
experience. For some it will be the local<br />
market and the new foods, sounds and<br />
laughter or other pushing themselves<br />
on the hike into the Millennium Cave, or<br />
choosing the option to channel your inner<br />
explorer and walk for 3 days to the volcano<br />
rather than 4WD. <strong>Adventure</strong> has never<br />
been so much fun as it is Vanuatu.<br />
5. Road Not Travelled: If being the only<br />
visitor at a particular time is your idea of<br />
how a trip of discovery should be, staying<br />
with a family in their bungalow, after<br />
catching a light aircraft over the islands,<br />
Vanuatu could keep you travelling for<br />
quite some time. Below are a couple of<br />
suggestions but there really is no shortage<br />
of opportunities.<br />
•Epi Island<br />
•Maskalyne Islands<br />
•Rah and the Rock of Rah<br />
•Moon Cave and Maewo<br />
•Hiking up the little explored volcanos of<br />
Ambrym<br />
For more information check-out www.vanuatu.travel
1.30pm Siri Falls, Gaua<br />
Hiking Diving Culture<br />
Volcanos<br />
Go explore at vanuatu.travel
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Sleeping Bags<br />
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Order online today and enjoy memorable<br />
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The Old Nurses hOme<br />
GuesThOuse<br />
Welcome to The Old Nurses Home Guesthouse<br />
This historic renovated building in Reefton allows you to enjoy the stunning<br />
Victoria Conservation Park with access to outstanding bush walks, historic<br />
mining sites, and withing walking distance to the famous Inangahua River and<br />
some of the best fishing for trout in NZ. White water raft or kayak the exciting<br />
rivers in the area. Reefton offers a perfect base for MTB riders to explore The<br />
Old Ghost Road from Lyell through the ranges to Seddonville on the West Coast.<br />
www.reeftonaccommodation.co.nz<br />
+6437328881<br />
info@reeftonaccommodation.co.nz<br />
“Escape ordinary”<br />
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Mountain bike clean up area and a secure mountain bike storage room available<br />
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p: +64 7 348 4079 | w: regentrotorua.co.nz
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