Magazine summer 2022

A CLASSIC AMONG KINGS
Here, you always have the Mischabel Mountains
in view and get to come close to Valais Blacknose
sheep: the Gsponer Höhenweg is one of the most
impressive hikes in the Saas Valley.
Text: Patrick Gasser
Image: Puzzle Media
A small gondola runs from the station in Stalden in the direction
of Gspon. This is the starting point for one of the most
beautiful high-altitude trails in Switzerland. And it is also
home to the highest football pitch in Europe. It is quite possible
that some of the best free-kick takers ever grow up here.
Anyone who blasts the ball over the fence here is unlikely to
find it again in this steep, sloping terrain.
The first section of the high-altitude trail is more leisurely
than the search for the football in Gspon. Only from the
hamlet of Oberfinilu does the wide path become a narrow hiking
trail. The route alternates through forest and open spaces.
The Gsponer Höhenweg starts quite comfortably on a
wide farm track. Just right for a warm-up. Only from the hamlet
of Oberfinilu does the path turn into a narrow hiking trail.
The view frees up to reveal the almost 3,800-metre-high Balfrin,
which lies to the west of Saas-Balen. But the view during
the hike not only falls on the impressive mountains. It is not
unusual to be surprised by the tinkling of bells from genuine
locals: these being Valais Blacknose sheep. Even before the
Romans, this breed came to the valleys of the Upper Valais –
and today, it is just as typical of the region as raclette cheese
and ‘Genepie’ – alpine herbal liqueur with glacier wormwood.
The next ascent takes you to Siwiboden. It’s worth taking
a break here for the magnificent view. This is because the
path stretches for a total of five hours over a good 14 kilometres.
A soothing, cooling effect
Siwiboden is followed by the Linde Bodu. What’s important
here: you should definitely keep an eye on the time, in order
to catch the last mountain railway to Kreuzboden. This saves
you almost 1,000 metres of descent to Saas-Grund. If there is
not enough time, you can already start the descent directly
to Saas-Balen or Saas-Grund via another trail option. If you
make it to Kreuzboden, a soothing footbath awaits you at the
mountain lake.
However, this footbath has to be worked hard for
again on the last section. This is because here, the hike becomes
challenging once more with a section of trail that leads
through a boulder landscape.
Time requirement: approx. 5 hours
Route: 14 kilometres
Metres in altitude uphill: 740m
Metres in altitude downhill: 236m
Highest point: 2,470 m above sea level
Lowest point: 1,865 m above sea level
Great views: from the larch forest, the view
of the imposing mountain scenery is unobstructed.
THE SMUGGLER’S ROUTE
For centuries, the Monto Moro Pass was an
important route for trade between north and south.
Even today, this period of history can be felt.
Text: Patrick Gasser
Image: Frederik Kalbermatten
Anyone visiting the Italian municipality of Macugnaga for the
first time will immediately notice the log cabin-style houses.
Family names like ‘Zurbriggen’ or ‘Anthamatten’ do not sound
typically Italian either. And indeed: in the 12th century, entire
families emigrated from the Saas Valley over the Monte Moro
Pass to what is now the province of Verbano-Cusio-Ossola.
For hundreds of years, the language and culture remained
similar to those on the other side of the Monte Moro Pass.
Those who set out on this cross-border hike today
from the Mattmark Dam do so on the same stone slabs as
smugglers have done for hundreds of years. Salt, wine,
cheese, sheep – and later on even cigarettes found their
way over the pass. The people of Saas bought jewellery and
cooking utensils from the traders at the weekly market in
Macugnaga.
The hike begins on the circular trail around Lake Mattmark.
Embedded in an impressive mountain backdrop, the
water glistens in the most beautiful emerald shades. Hikers
leave the mostly asphalted path at the Distel Alp at the end of
the dam.
From there, a well-marked hiking trail climbs to Tälliboden,
a pretty moorland. The scenery further up to the Golden
Madonna is rugged. Here, you walk along the remains of
the centuries-old paved mule track. The statue ‘Maria zum
Schnee’ is of great significance for the inhabitants on both
sides of the pass. A cross-border pilgrimage mass is held here
on 5 August every year. The statue is enthroned at the top of
the pass with a view towards Italy.
Not far from the top of the pass is the station of the
gondola lift to Macugnaga. A detour to eat pizza in the Walser
village is always worthwhile. The way back takes you via the
same route as the ascent to Monte Moro Pass. If you want to
return the same day, however, be sure to follow the timetable
of the mountain railway back up. The same applies to the
bus timetable from the dam crest at Lake Mattmark back to
Saas-Almagell.
Time requirement: approx. 5
hours, there and back
Route: 14.5 kilometres
Metres in altitude uphill: 642m
Metres in altitude downhill: 642m
Highest point: 2,840 m above sea level
Lowest point: 2,200 m above sea level
On the historic route to the Monte Moro Pass,
you always have Lake Mattmark in view.
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