Jewellery World Magazine - June 2022
This month's issue glitters with coloured diamonds and examines the ever-growing role of technology in jewellery design and production.
This month's issue glitters with coloured diamonds and examines the ever-growing role of technology in jewellery design and production.
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JUNE <strong>2022</strong><br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
Pindan Dreaming<br />
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Concept to Creation<br />
YOUR JEWELLERY DESIGN BROUGHT TO LIFE<br />
1300 886 108 | AUSTRALIA WIDE<br />
palloys.com
Affection Diamonds<br />
Suite 504, Level -5 250 Pitt Street Sydney NSW -2000<br />
Call Us: 02 9264 2211 | Mobile: 0400 60 70 70<br />
Email: affectiondiamonds@gmail.com<br />
www.affectiondiamonds.com.au<br />
YOUR ONE STOP SHOP FOR DIAMONDS<br />
Buy Diamonds With Confidence * Diamond & <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Wholesaler * Gemstones & Labgrown Diamonds are<br />
Available on Order *<br />
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Rose Cut Diamonds | Matching Pairs | Black & Salt & Pepper<br />
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<strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
ABN: 82 637 204 454<br />
ISSN: 2207-6751<br />
PO Box 54, Camden NSW 2570<br />
P: 0431 844 903<br />
Subscription: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Enquiries: info@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
Web: www.jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
managing director<br />
Jeremy Keight 0431 844 903<br />
jeremy@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
editor<br />
editor@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
contributing writers<br />
Kirsten Ehrlich Davies<br />
Stefan Juengling<br />
Cynthia Unninayer<br />
Cheryl D Harty<br />
art<br />
design@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
advertising sales<br />
sales@jewelleryworld.net.au<br />
REGULARS<br />
6 News<br />
12 Palloy's Points<br />
14 Trade Well with Rami Baron<br />
16 JAA News<br />
42 Birthstone - Ruby<br />
44 Lab-grown Diamond News<br />
48 New Products<br />
50 Directory<br />
FEATURES<br />
20 Intense and rare<br />
Coloured diamonds rising in appeal amid<br />
a world shifting between sanctions and laboratories.<br />
28 More science than art<br />
Inside the Australian jewellery techspace.<br />
20<br />
34 My life in jewellery<br />
Award-winning designer Leone Meatchem shares<br />
her story of her life in the jewellery industry.<br />
DISCLAIMER:<br />
38 Profile: Smales Jewellers<br />
Tony Smales seen coloured diamonds<br />
gaining ground as milestone gifts.<br />
This publication may not be reproduced<br />
in whole or part without the written<br />
permission of the Publisher.<br />
AUSTRALIA AND NEW<br />
JUNE <strong>2022</strong><br />
ZEALAND’S PROFESSIONAL JEWELLERY MAGAZINE<br />
Articles express the opinions of the<br />
authors and are not necessarily those of the<br />
Publisher or Editor. Mention of a product or<br />
service in this magazine does not indicate the<br />
Publisher’s endorsement.<br />
The Publisher excludes all liability for<br />
loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false<br />
or misleading statements that may appear<br />
in this publication.<br />
All information is copyright.<br />
Pindan Dreaming<br />
DESERTRose<br />
FRONT COVER<br />
Desert Rose<br />
Ellendale Diamonds Australia<br />
4<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
All Silver is Rhodium Plated<br />
• Sydney AGHA Gift Fair - February 21-24, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
• International • Sydney AGHA <strong>Jewellery</strong> Gift Fair -September - February 21-24, 12-14, 2020 (Homebush)<br />
(Darling Harbour)<br />
• International <strong>Jewellery</strong> Fair -September 12-14, 2020 (Darling Harbour)<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU<br />
TJDSILVER.COM.AU 0400272365 ADMIN@TJDSILVER.COM.AU
News<br />
Queen Elizabeth II Platinum<br />
Jubilee Crown<br />
Royal Canadian Mint releases limited edition coins<br />
with Argyle pink diamonds<br />
The Royal Canadian Mint has released an exclusive range of coins featuring some<br />
of the world’s rarest precious stones: pink diamonds from the famed<br />
A jewelled “Commonwealth of Nations” globe has<br />
been created to commemorate the Queen’s Platinum<br />
Jubilee. The globe features platinum, diamond, gold<br />
and silver elements, representing the Queen’s four<br />
jubilees, along with stones collected from YrWyddfa/<br />
Snowdon in Wales, Ben Nevis in Scotland, Slieve<br />
Donard in Northern Ireland and Scafell Pike in England.<br />
Argyle mine. The jewels are the crowning element in a collection of pure gold<br />
and platinum coins that truly redefine rare. This new collection – the Opulence<br />
Collection – is headlined by the one-of-a-kind Ultimate, a<br />
one-kilo pure platinum pink diamond coin, which was unveiled at the Ottawa Art<br />
Gallery in Canada.<br />
“The Royal Canadian Mint’s reputation for crafting<br />
coins of exceptional sophistication and artistry<br />
is known to collectors around the world,”<br />
Marie Lemay, President and CEO of the<br />
Royal Canadian Mint.<br />
To premiere the exclusive collection, the<br />
Mint has partnered with Heffel Fine Art<br />
Auction House to sell The Ultimate, the<br />
collection’s most prestigious showpiece.<br />
The Opulence Collection, featuring<br />
pink diamond coins in its inaugural year,<br />
is the result of an exciting collaboration<br />
with the Royal Canadian Mint and Crossworks<br />
Manufacturing, a Canadian company and Authorised<br />
Partner of Argyle Pink Diamonds.<br />
With Rio Tinto’s Argyle mine closing in 2020, the pink diamonds adorning the<br />
pure gold and platinum coins are among the rarest in the world, making the<br />
pieces truly unique.<br />
Released in very low mintages, the Pink Diamond coins consist of:<br />
The Ultimate: One-kilo $2,500 99.95% Pure Platinum Coin - <strong>World</strong>wide mintage<br />
of one<br />
Splendour: 10 oz. $1,250 99.95% Pure Platinum Coin - <strong>World</strong>wide mintage of five<br />
Grandeur: 2 oz. $350 99.95% Pure Platinum Coin - <strong>World</strong>wide mintage of 30<br />
Treasure: 1 oz. $200 Pure Gold Coin – <strong>World</strong>wide mintage of 400<br />
Mounted on a silver crown which rests on a blue and<br />
gold cushion, the globe was unveiled at the Tower of<br />
London, where it remained on display until featuring<br />
in the lighting of the Principal Beacon at Buckingham<br />
Palace on <strong>June</strong> 2.<br />
The Queen’s pageant master Bruno Peek, who<br />
designed the globe, said that he wanted it to serve<br />
as a tribute to the Queen’s 70 years as head of the 54<br />
Commonwealth nations.<br />
"It's a unique piece of art made by British craftsmen<br />
for a unique Queen, made through a lot of love,<br />
dedication and skill," Mr Peek said.<br />
Indian farmer strikes it rich<br />
A farmer in India has become an overnight millionaire<br />
(in rupees) after stumbling upon a 11.88 carat<br />
diamond at the country’s leading mine.<br />
Pratap Singh Yadav, 58, found the stone while mining<br />
in the Madhya Pradesh region in May. The stone is the<br />
one of the largest found in the area and is worth about<br />
seven million rupees (around AUD $120,000.)<br />
Yadav, an impoverished farmer, had taken a shallow<br />
mine on lease for three months and worked day and<br />
night to try his luck.<br />
“I had never seen a diamond before,” he said.<br />
6<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
We know<br />
Brilliance<br />
LOOSE DIAMONDS<br />
DIAMOND & COLOURED<br />
STONE ENGAGEMENT RINGS<br />
COLOURED GEMSTONES<br />
WEDDING & DRESS RINGS<br />
CAD DESIGN<br />
Get to know us too
News<br />
De Beers Blue breaks records<br />
The Rock and The Red Cross<br />
The latest Geneva auction featured two spectacular diamonds, The Rock and<br />
The Red Cross, which are some of the largest ever seen in auction market<br />
history.<br />
The egg sized white diamond known as The Rock, has sold for more than 21.6<br />
million Swiss francs (AU$31.5 million). With a gross weight of 61.3 grams and<br />
dimensions of 5.4 centimetres by 3.1 centimetres, the 228-carat pear-shaped<br />
G-colour stone is roughly the size and shape of a hen’s egg.<br />
The Red Cross, a fancy intense<br />
yellow, cushion shaped 205.07<br />
carat diamond, sold for nearly 14.2<br />
million francs (AUD$20.7 million)<br />
to an anonymous buyer, who paid<br />
double the pre-sale estimate.<br />
According to Max Fawcett, head<br />
of jewellery at Christie’s Geneva,<br />
an unspecified seven-figure amount from the sale of the yellow diamond was<br />
donated to the international Red Cross Movement.<br />
24-carat pasties at the Billboards<br />
The dress theme for the <strong>2022</strong> Billboard Music Awards<br />
seemed to be “plenty of flesh” but R&B artist Doja Catt<br />
managed to balance her bare skin with some unique and<br />
surreal jewellery into the look.<br />
Catt, who won two awards that night, wore a pair of<br />
enormous jeweled Schiaparelli earrings, along with gold<br />
nail rings on her fingertips. One nail ring was connected to<br />
a gold leaf bag, shaped like a planet, as a nod to her recent<br />
album Planet Her.<br />
She also added some 24-carat modesty to her look, by<br />
wearing gold Agent Provocateur nipple pasties under the<br />
sheer bandeau fitted under her sculpted black gown.<br />
The “De Beers Cullinan Blue” diamond achieved a<br />
record-breaking price of US$57.47 million at Sotheby’s<br />
Hong Kong auction last month, far above the pre-auction<br />
estimate of $48 million.<br />
The internally flawless step-cut fancy vivid blue diamond<br />
weighting 15.10 carats was cut from a Type IIb 39.34 carat<br />
rough stone unearthed by Petra Mines at the Cullinan<br />
mine in April 2021. Of the five blue diamonds weighing<br />
over 10 carats that have ever gone to auction, this is the<br />
first to exceed 15 carats.<br />
Popular American brands turn to<br />
lab-grown diamonds<br />
Popular American jewellery brand Kendra Scott has<br />
expanded its jewellery range into lab-grown diamond<br />
engagement rings. The Texan-based brand includes a<br />
customisation system that<br />
allows customers to select<br />
the band material, setting and<br />
diamond sizes. Since launching<br />
its fine jewellery range in 2016,<br />
the brand has extended to 20<br />
retail stores in America and a<br />
strong online presence.<br />
Christopher Slowinski,<br />
the designer behind New<br />
York-based Christopher Designs, is best known for his<br />
proprietary Crisscut diamond cut — which he has now<br />
applied to lab-grown diamonds across his range.<br />
8<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
LET'S TALK<br />
WEBINAR SERIES<br />
N e x t G e n A r t i s a n s<br />
7pm AEST<br />
Tuesday | July<br />
5<br />
Both socially and environmentally aware, the next generation of jewellers, designers, traders and<br />
everything in between are responsible sources. They are focused, forward thinking in their<br />
approach to business and clients. Brand focused, technology and social media savvy, this new<br />
generation of the jewellery industry are cutting edge and Avant-garde. Join us as we hear from the<br />
risk takers, creative and expansive minded individuals that are not afraid to change the dynamics.<br />
We welcome all members of the trade, young and old, to join us.<br />
REGISTER TODAY | JAA.COM.AU/TALK<br />
Proudly brought to you by the Jewellers Association of Australia
News<br />
Popcorn diamond for popping the<br />
question<br />
Luxury jewellery designer Stephanie Gottlieb has<br />
created a range of unusual diamond shapes for<br />
clients over the years – from dogs to horses. So<br />
when popcorn brand Angie’s Boomchickapop<br />
asked her to create a popcorn-shaped diamond<br />
ring, she naturally said Yes!<br />
Museum could violate sanctions if it returns a Fabergé egg<br />
Britain’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) is currently in possession of a Fabergé Egg<br />
which was loaned to it for an exhibition. Russian oligarch Viktor Vekselberg acquired the<br />
bejewelled egg some time ago but has passed the ownership on to a company in Panama.<br />
But the museum has been cautioned by experts that it could violate government sanctions<br />
against Russia if it gave the egg back.<br />
Tom Keatinge, Director of Centre for Financial Crime and Security Studies at defence and<br />
security thinktank RUSI, said that as Vekselberg had personally been sanctioned and the<br />
egg is a financial asset, the conditions of the sanction are fairly clear. “If you break it down,<br />
whether it’s an egg or a yacht or a house, it can be an asset of a sanctioned person. Be it a<br />
port, estate agent or museum, [everyone has] the same obligations,” he said.<br />
According to the<br />
designer, she started<br />
with an 11-carat<br />
yellow diamond – to<br />
match the light,<br />
buttery colour<br />
people associate<br />
with popcorn. Then she worked with diamond<br />
cutters in Israel to facet and finish the diamond<br />
to its final shape, a 3.66-carat popcorn-shaped<br />
sparkler.<br />
The stone is set in a simple rounded gold band so<br />
the focus is on the uniquely-shaped diamond. The<br />
Angie’s Boomchickapop popcorn diamond ring<br />
is available on Stephanie Gottlieb’s website for a<br />
limited time, with a retail price starting from USD<br />
$50,000.<br />
The egg is made of solid gold and enamel,<br />
and stands just over two inches tall. Its two<br />
halves can be opened to reveal a golden<br />
yolk. Inside the golden yolk is a golden hen<br />
with ruby eyes. The egg was the first in a<br />
series of more than 50 such jewelled eggs<br />
made under the supervision of Peter Carl<br />
Fabergé for the Russian Imperial family. It<br />
was delivered to Tsar Alexander III and given<br />
to his wife Maria Feodorovna in 1885. The<br />
tsarina enjoyed the egg so much that Alexander III quickly placed a standing order with Fabergé to<br />
create a new egg for his wife every Easter thereafter, requiring only that each egg be unique and<br />
that it contain some kind of surprise within it.<br />
UK sanctions against the oligarchs are set to remain in place until “the last Russian tank has left<br />
Ukraine,” according to Liz Truss, the UK Foreign Secretary. V&A may be holding the egg for a long<br />
time.<br />
Even if the museum decides to risk returning the egg to the Fabergé museum, it may run into<br />
further obstacles with transportation, as there are no direct flights from the UK<br />
to Russia.<br />
Vekselberg, an oil and gas tycoon with a fortune estimated at $18 billion, owns<br />
nine Fabergé eggs. He’s paid over $100 million for them since beginning his<br />
collection in 2004.<br />
10<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong><br />
Vekselberg and other eggs in his basket.
New Premium Range - In Stock & Online Now<br />
We are delighted to present this small selection from our extensive new range of premium gemstones.<br />
MGX3092 : Morganite 11mm Round 5.30cts<br />
KLB3284 : Seafoam Aquamarine 14.8mm Square Emerald Cut 15.82cts<br />
SPINX3444 : Grey Spinel 11.5x7.7mm Pear 2.95cts<br />
KX3096 : Purple Sapphire 8.8x6.6mm Oval 2.08cts<br />
GSX3007 : Spessartite “Fanta” Garnet 6.2x4.85mm Oval 1.19cts<br />
TUX3246 : Blue Green Tourmaline 23.5x18.8mm Fancy Emereld Cut 12.67cts<br />
TUX3273 : Watermelon Tourmaline 15x5.1mm Baguette 3.31cts<br />
SPAX3697 : Teal Green Sapphire 7.2x7mm Square Cushion 2.22cts<br />
SPINX3229 : Orange-Red Spinel 8.3mm Round 2.79cts
PALLOYS POINTS<br />
Dean Li<br />
Production lead, Print<br />
Palloys<br />
CAM AND 3D PRINTING<br />
Palloys stands out in the jewellery industry for our ability to provide an end-to-end,<br />
streamlined and time-efficient jewellery manufacturing service. With our very own CAD,<br />
CAM, casting and finishing departments, we can take a client’s concept to real-life creation<br />
– but it is our CAM team and their services that elevate this ability to the next level.<br />
CAM, or Computer-Aided Manufacturing,<br />
is the process by which a CAD file,<br />
such as an STL file, is translated into<br />
a physical rendering of the design through<br />
3D-printing technology. This rendering can<br />
be done in resin or in wax and serves as an<br />
intermediary stage between a design and a<br />
cast object. It enables both parties to have<br />
a physical representation of what the design<br />
will look like once cast in precious metal.<br />
Our team receives these files from clients via<br />
our website-based uploader, email, and our<br />
dedicated plugin in Rhino, where the client can<br />
be quoted right in their software, and submit<br />
the job directly into our system, speeding up<br />
the administration function significantly.<br />
As the CAM team leader, my team ensures<br />
the highest quality from start to finish. With<br />
a refined, skilled<br />
team of CAM<br />
experts, the aim<br />
is to provide<br />
premium results.<br />
All digital files are<br />
filtered to ensure<br />
the file is printable<br />
and meets<br />
certain casting<br />
specifications<br />
before it is printed.<br />
These criteria<br />
are essential for<br />
successful printing,<br />
casting and thus ensuring client satisfaction –<br />
fortunately, our team is meticulous in making<br />
sure every file is printable, especially those<br />
supplied by the client. Printability of an STL<br />
file hinges on aspects such as wall thicknesses,<br />
depth of engravings, and cleaning up any<br />
‘floating’ or unattached components within<br />
the file. It is vital to have a team proficient<br />
in assessing printability; pieces that have<br />
engravings, our CAM team is careful to<br />
identify those engraving depths should not<br />
be greater than their width, to reduce the<br />
incidence of breakaways and therefore delays.<br />
Similarly, with components that are very<br />
fine are susceptible to issues such as infill<br />
and breakaways, therefore we ensure that<br />
all designs adhere to minimum thicknesses.<br />
Another measure Palloys’ CAM team take to<br />
reduce porosity and breakaways is to draw<br />
sprues close to the densest areas.<br />
Moreover, a consistent question the CAM<br />
team receives from clients is regarding resin<br />
and wax, and which of the two is ‘better’. The<br />
simple answer is: it depends on the design.<br />
Wax has the highest resolution, printing at<br />
12<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
only 16um, but the extrusion process in wax means that every surface in<br />
every direction has a slightly rough looking texture.The resin process allows<br />
for the part to aliased very well in the XY direction, and while technically a<br />
lower resolution, appears to be smoother, and is often mistaken for higher<br />
resolution.<br />
Resin is popular, as its surface can blend better than wax.However, resin in<br />
very large parts can leave more residue or ash during the casting process,<br />
and if it does not burn out, it can cause porosity. Thus, for larger parts,<br />
Palloys’ CAM team recommends wax, or where very high detail is required<br />
in items like signet rings – but for smaller, more ornate pieces, resin can be<br />
the better option.<br />
CAM functions have become more consumer friendly, with far better<br />
software and hardware solutions available to consumers, even castable<br />
resins becoming more accessible. This means we have seen some<br />
percentage of the CAM business now becoming customer supplied<br />
goods, however, the skill and experience required to perform the tasks of<br />
supporting goods and determining sprue placement to ensure good casting<br />
are not available in the consumer realm yet, with many of these clients<br />
reverting to using their equipment to prototype in durable and tough resins<br />
inhouse, but then still send us the product for production via our CAM<br />
team.We find these relationships to be the most successful as both teams<br />
understand the nature of the technology.<br />
This increased access and hobbyist use of CAM technology has allowed our<br />
clients to become more informed about the process, such as understanding<br />
acceptable file types and viable designs – we welcome all our clients to<br />
become more familiar with our equipment and technology, as when coupled<br />
with our professional equipment and expertise, the turnaround from a<br />
design to a finished piece is much quicker, resulting in a decreased chance of<br />
breakaways and porosity.<br />
We are a big advocate on quality assurance – we strive to provide our clients<br />
with the best casting quality and aim to deliver the products in the fastest<br />
time possible. With our top-of-the-line equipment, eco-friendlier resins and<br />
innovative team, we can be a support to anyone seeking professional CAM<br />
services irrespective of their experience.<br />
Swarovski names<br />
Bella Hadid as<br />
brand ambassador<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> house Swarovski have present their new<br />
collection with a campaign staring supermodel Bella<br />
Hadid. The new campaign celebrates the brand’s codes<br />
— bold colours and the octagon. It pays tribute to a new<br />
era and self-expression.<br />
“Bella Hadid sums up<br />
the individualistic and<br />
transformative attitude of<br />
a new global generation.<br />
She is a multifaceted<br />
character who evades<br />
the boxes of rules and<br />
conformity. She goes<br />
from sporty to glamorous<br />
while remaining the<br />
same girl – the same<br />
Bella – with confidence<br />
and authority. In that<br />
sense, she conveys the<br />
values of Swarovski to<br />
perfection. Today, crystals<br />
are a dynamic part of<br />
our everyday wardrobe:<br />
a way of accentuating<br />
your individual style in a<br />
way that can be as casual<br />
as it can be elaborate.<br />
Bella is the poster girl<br />
for this state of mind,”<br />
said Giovanna Engelbert,<br />
creative director of<br />
Swarovski.<br />
The 25-year-old catwalk<br />
star took to Instagram to<br />
share the news with her<br />
51.7 million followers,<br />
writing: “Extremely<br />
honoured and excited to<br />
be the new face of the<br />
iconic Swarovski.”<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 13
DDCA NEWS<br />
Rami Baron<br />
President, Diamond Dealers Club of Australia<br />
rami@ddca.org.au<br />
TODAY IS GREAT,<br />
BUT ARE YOU PREPARED<br />
FOR TOMORROW?<br />
The number one reason small businesses in Australia fail today is<br />
financial mismanagement.<br />
Some of you will have this in the bag.<br />
Probably because somewhere down<br />
the road you made a bunch of mistakes,<br />
found yourself in a very tight situation and<br />
through a combination of luck, tightening the<br />
belt and stretching out suppliers (which acted<br />
like an unsecured bank), you survived and<br />
learnt some hard lessons.<br />
This article is for the rest of you who think you<br />
have it under control, and then suddenly it’s<br />
like, WTF! A couple of invoices you weren’t<br />
expecting come in and that customer who left<br />
a deposit is in no hurry to collect that big ring<br />
but the supplier is still expecting to get paid.<br />
A bill from home for a repair maintenance on<br />
your car, the final holiday payment, and the list<br />
is endless.<br />
Bottom line, sh!t happens.<br />
Let’s assume you’re on top of these things,<br />
but now you want to grow your business.<br />
Nothing major, only the space next door<br />
became vacant and will give you that extra<br />
room. You really want to invest in a laser<br />
machine, or you’ve met someone who would<br />
be an amazing addition to your team and<br />
give you the chance to focus on some new<br />
ideas. So much of what happens in a small<br />
business evolves due to circumstance and the<br />
entrepreneurial spirit. Everything inevitably<br />
costs money that you didn’t budget for. So, as<br />
they say in economics, you have to look at the<br />
“opportunity costs”, which are defined as what<br />
you spend your money on at the expense of<br />
something else.<br />
Ok, so what do you spend your money on?<br />
Wrong question. Have you prepared a budget?<br />
Have you looked at all of your expenses over<br />
the year and actually know how much money<br />
you need to generate each month? This,<br />
of course, should include paying yourself<br />
a decent wage, which is separate from the<br />
business making a profit.<br />
Your personal expenses and living expenses<br />
can’t be tied into the business. Pull them<br />
apart. There is you and the business; it is not<br />
one entity, even if you are a sole operator.<br />
Let’s assume you have a lot of these things<br />
covered. What percentage of profit do you<br />
need to leave in your business for expansion<br />
or, as we often say, “for a rainy day”? How<br />
much do you put aside for new projects?<br />
When I had a retail store many years ago,<br />
I would put half the profit from Christmas<br />
aside, which would be my seed capital for new<br />
ideas or expansion.<br />
14<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Let’s go back a step. We start as a small business, but we all want to<br />
grow. So start to ask yourself how much money you would need to<br />
expand and what would that look like? Make some notes on your<br />
phone or in a notebook, and then meet with either someone more<br />
experienced in business or, best case scenario, book an hour with<br />
your accountant. If you don’t have one that you speak to three-to-four<br />
times a year, you are leaving yourself very exposed to mistakes and<br />
missing out on opportunities relating to what you might be able to<br />
claim before the end of the financial year.<br />
Successful businesses are rarely (if ever) the result of some brilliant<br />
idea. Success comes from how these ideas are executed and your<br />
ability to make decisions based on logic, not emotion. You need to<br />
crunch the numbers. Emotion is the passion and energy that drives<br />
you – don’t let it blind you. It is wonderful to be positive, and it’s a<br />
huge tool for getting through difficult situations.<br />
Let’s keep going.<br />
Do you have the people to bring the new idea to fruition? Do you<br />
have the time needed to solve the problems? How much planning<br />
did you do? And the three most important questions are what does<br />
success look like? How much money can you realistically invest into<br />
the new venture without putting pressure on your existing business? Is<br />
your decision based on a vision moving forward or because of fear of<br />
competition or missing out? This last one is very common in business.<br />
When people see their competition launching a new website, they get<br />
all antsy and FOMO kicks in.<br />
I could go on and on about things you could do, but let me end with a<br />
few pointers I learned along the way.<br />
1. Get a bookkeeper if you’re not good at organising bills and accounts.<br />
Prepare some simple budgets. You need to have a number as to how<br />
much you need to generate every week, month etc. If you’re short<br />
one month, you need to catch up the next.<br />
2. 5% of your turnover gets squirrelled away into a separate bank<br />
account for emergencies.<br />
3. Never make a decision based on fear. If you stick to making a good<br />
profit, then you will never be fearful of saying no to a customer who<br />
is either super difficult or just leaving you with little to no margin<br />
4. Ask your accountant what you should be paying yourself. Too many<br />
self-employed people work insane hours, subject themselves to<br />
huge stress levels and earn less than they would if they had a job.<br />
5. When you plan to grow your business, remember to write the plan<br />
down on paper so that you can reflect on it, fill in what you missed,<br />
estimate the costs, set a timeline, and then double it because that,<br />
my friends, is reality.<br />
Trade well,,, Rami Baron.
PRESIDENT'S<br />
MESSAGE<br />
Karen Denaro<br />
As we draw close to the end of the financial year, I reflect on the year we have left behind.<br />
Faced with numerous challenges,<br />
including two years in and out of<br />
lockdowns, amidst much uncertainty and<br />
an international crisis grossly impacting both<br />
our emotional and physical commodities,<br />
the Australian jewellery industry continues<br />
to strive ahead – we forge the future of our<br />
industry despite the evolving circumstances in<br />
how we network and serve our clients across<br />
our respective businesses.<br />
Amid all of this unexpected change comes an<br />
entirely new generation of jewellery artisans<br />
– one I am particularly proud of. The Jewellers<br />
Association of Australia highlights the new<br />
generation of Millennial and Gen Y jewellery<br />
industry experts, (in the making), in the<br />
JAA’s up and coming July webinar, Next Gen<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Artisans.<br />
Socially and environmentally aware, the<br />
next or new generation of bespoke jewellery<br />
designers, fine jewellery manufacturers,<br />
gem and diamond traders, retailers, artisans,<br />
crafters, master jewellers and jewellery<br />
industry affiliates are responsible sources.<br />
They are focused and forward thinking in<br />
the way they approach their businesses and<br />
clients alike. Brand focused, technology and<br />
social media savvy, this new generation of the<br />
jewellery industry, currently taking all sectors<br />
of our industry by storm, are cutting edge<br />
and avant garde. They are risk takers, creative<br />
and expansive minded individuals who are<br />
not afraid to change the dynamics of how<br />
our industry operates and they are absolutely<br />
advantageous in their approach.<br />
What can we learn from them?<br />
The way we do business has transitioned to<br />
support contactless sales experiences and/or<br />
purchasing. This is an area that Millennials and<br />
Gen Y are particularly proficient in – having<br />
grown up in a world of social media and<br />
technological advancement, that generations<br />
before them never would ever have dreamt<br />
of, they understand the importance of<br />
connection and creating online presence.<br />
Their social pages and websites are often<br />
their showrooms, if not a preface to their<br />
showrooms, and they create ambience and<br />
engagement with every single post, like and<br />
comment. They understand the importance<br />
of diversification. They are nurturing of their<br />
audience – they know exactly who their client/<br />
audience is, what their client needs/wants<br />
and aim to deliver an overall experience that<br />
commences from the conception of their<br />
online presence right through to the delivery<br />
of their products/services. This generation<br />
aims to please and make no mistake, they<br />
know exactly how to deliver the goods.<br />
The JAA invites all sectors of the Australian<br />
jewellery industry to an evening dedicated<br />
to the future of our industry. Join us, 7pm<br />
Tuesday, 5 July, <strong>2022</strong> to hear this vivacious<br />
panel of new generation jewellery industry<br />
experts discuss what makes them tick, how<br />
they operate, how they market to Millennials<br />
and Gen Y clients, what we can learn from<br />
them and a myriad of other topics that are all<br />
Next Gen <strong>Jewellery</strong> related.<br />
The time is NOW.<br />
16<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
YOU ARE<br />
MY<br />
ROCK.<br />
Becoming a member of the Jewellers<br />
Association of Australia has a comprehensive<br />
range of benefits.<br />
We are here to help support, protect, guide<br />
and grow your business, whilst being a voice<br />
for the Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry.<br />
The <strong>2022</strong> Member Prospectus details the<br />
benefits available to members and we<br />
welcome you to contact us with any questions<br />
or feedback you may have about the JAA.<br />
INSPIRING CONFIDENCE. SINCE 1931.<br />
view the<br />
MEMBER<br />
BENEFITS<br />
jaa.com.au/benefits
RUSSIAN DIAMONDS VERSUS THE WORLD<br />
The war in Ukraine has shut down a third of the world’s natural diamond industry. What has<br />
been happening with Russian diamonds since the February invasion?<br />
Ukraine wants Russian diamonds<br />
labelled ‘conflict’<br />
The State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine<br />
wrote to the chair of the Kimberley Process<br />
(KP) in late May asking that it redefine conflict<br />
diamonds in a way that would label Russian<br />
diamonds as such.<br />
The current definition of conflict diamonds<br />
includes diamonds “where violence is used”<br />
in their mining and excavation. The Ukraine<br />
petition asks that the definition be extended<br />
to include “even if they are not associated<br />
with any rebel movement, but there are<br />
armed conflicts in violation of international<br />
humanitarian law, the funding of which<br />
involved diamonds mined by the aggressor<br />
country.”<br />
It appears to be a reference to the two main<br />
Russian diamond mining companies — Alrosa<br />
and Grib — which are both partly owned by<br />
the Russian government.<br />
If accepted, the new language would suspend<br />
Russia from the KP and effectively ban Russian<br />
diamonds from the world market.<br />
The changes would require absolute<br />
consensus from the 82 participating<br />
governments.<br />
Surat polishers struggling with<br />
sanctions against Russia<br />
Diamond polishing hub, Surat, in the west of<br />
India, has over 4,000 small and large diamond<br />
polish businesses and employs nearly 500,000<br />
workers. At least 30 per cent of the diamonds<br />
cut in Surat are sourced directly from Alrosa,<br />
so US sanctions against Russian diamonds are<br />
hurting the industry there.<br />
Diamond polishers in Surat are<br />
typically paid on the basis of<br />
raw diamonds they polish per<br />
day. With sanctions cutting<br />
into the diamond source, some<br />
workers have been put on a four<br />
day week, and have had working<br />
hours cut from ten per day to eight per<br />
day. The sanctions have put pressure on<br />
many workers leaving thousands struggling<br />
to pay rents and education fees for their<br />
children.<br />
Gems and <strong>Jewellery</strong> Export Promotion<br />
Council’s (GJEPC) Gujarat chairman Dinesh<br />
Navadia explained that in addition to<br />
diamonds coming directly from Russia, many<br />
Russian gems travel the world via other<br />
countries before ending up in Surat for cutting<br />
and polishing, meaning that the majority of<br />
gems cut in Surat are Russian.<br />
The US sanctions require that all diamonds<br />
entering the US be certified that their origin<br />
is not Russian. Other countries, such as China<br />
and the Gulf countries, do not mandate this<br />
condition, so some work remains.<br />
The polishing industry in India was also<br />
faced difficulties in the height of the Covid<br />
lockdowns.<br />
Will the Russian diamond ban<br />
raise the profile of lab-grown<br />
diamonds?<br />
Lab-grown diamonds were on the rise<br />
before the outbreak of war in Ukraine. New<br />
York-based diamond analyst Paul Zimnisky<br />
estimated global sales of lab-grown diamond<br />
jewellery increased by 40 per cent last year —<br />
a figure now representing 10 per cent of total<br />
diamond jewellery sales.<br />
With the war dragging on,<br />
Zimnisky is now forecasting<br />
a 20 per cent annual growth<br />
in lab-grown jewellery sales<br />
through to 2027. He calculated<br />
the global output of lab-grown<br />
diamonds was close to 3 million carats<br />
last year. That figure represents incredible<br />
growth, but it’s still nothing compared to the<br />
116 million carats of natural diamonds mined<br />
in 2021.<br />
Major jewellery and watch brands that have<br />
previously sourced from Russia have bowed<br />
to social pressure and switched to Rio Tinto<br />
and De Beers for their diamonds. It is likely to<br />
mean a hike in natural diamond prices as so<br />
many compete for a limited stock.<br />
Erwan Rambourge is head of consumer and<br />
retail research at HSBC and is confident that<br />
sales of lab-grown diamond jewellery will<br />
increase with even brands such as Cartier<br />
and Bulgari likely to use lab-grown stones for<br />
entry-level pieces in the near future. Already<br />
Tag Heuer has released a product featuring<br />
lab-grown stones.<br />
The gap that is left by keeping Russian stones<br />
out of the market is so large it’s not likely to<br />
be completely filled by lab-grown diamonds<br />
any time soon, despite their continual and<br />
ever-increasing success.<br />
18<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Africa’s biggest diamond producer stuck between a<br />
rock and an even harder one<br />
Botswana is Africa’s biggest diamond producing nation. At a mining<br />
conference there in May, the major players spoke of their concerns<br />
that a prolonged ban on Russian diamond would allow synthetic<br />
gems to expand their market share.<br />
Debswana is a joint venture between Anglo American/De Beers and<br />
the Botswana government. It accounts for almost all of Botswana’s<br />
diamond exports. This year that stood at USD $3.4 billion, up from<br />
$2.2 billion in 2020.<br />
But Jacob Thamage, head of<br />
Botswana's Diamond Hub, isn’t<br />
convinced Botswana can fill the<br />
gap left by the Russian diamond<br />
ban.<br />
"You don't want to invest a lot of<br />
money to up-scale and then the<br />
war ends the next day," Thamage<br />
said. "We also see the higher<br />
prices pushing consumers to<br />
substitutes such as the synthetics<br />
and this can cause problems for us if we cede the market to unnatural<br />
stones."<br />
Thamage also fears that consumers might start to shun natural<br />
diamonds due to traceability issues.<br />
"There is an increased fear that buyers of diamonds will begin to<br />
treat all natural diamonds as conflict diamonds and therefore shift to<br />
unnatural diamonds," he said.<br />
Meanwhile, in Russia<br />
On home soil, Alrosa has noted a significant increase in interest<br />
among domestic customers looking to invest in Russian diamond<br />
amid hard currency restrictions.<br />
Alrosa has a Diamond Exclusive program under which it can sell<br />
diamonds to certain private investors via its regular auctions but,<br />
being that the company is government-owned, a series of legislation<br />
must be altered in order to open up diamond investing opportunities<br />
to more Russian investors. The Russian Deputy Finance Minister says<br />
proposals for such changes have already been put to the government.<br />
The scheme would see ordinary Russians being able to invest in<br />
diamonds in a similar way to investing in gold in order to help support<br />
Alrosa under sanctions from the West.<br />
Alrosa provides up to 90 percent of diamond production in Russia<br />
employing more than 20 000 people. At the end of 2021, the<br />
company netted 332 billion rubles of revenue, which is a 50-percent<br />
increase compared with 2020.<br />
Luxury Pearl & Opal <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Tel: (02) 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au<br />
www.ikecho.com.au
Red Argyle diamonds, Rio Tinto<br />
INTENSE AND RARE:<br />
THE CHANGING APPEAL AND<br />
ATTRACTION OF COLOURED DIAMONDS<br />
Fancy coloured diamonds are not as common as white diamonds, which adds to their appeal and<br />
their value. But there's a big difference between a diamond that is slightly discoloured and one that is<br />
'fancy' coloured. Here we look at what makes coloured diamonds so coveted and so unique.<br />
Coloured diamonds are ranked on a<br />
different scale to white diamonds –<br />
they reach 'coloured' status if they<br />
are found to be more intense in hue. The<br />
scale for coloured diamonds even sounds like<br />
something from a fairytale with grades such as<br />
'fancy intense', 'fancy vivid' and 'fancy deep.'<br />
But beauty is always in the eye of the beholder<br />
and while the fancy colours are considered<br />
the epitome, the lighter shades can be just<br />
as stunning and form a way for consumers<br />
achieve their natural diamond dreams at an<br />
entry level.<br />
There are many factors effecting the diamond<br />
sector at the moment. Lab-grown diamonds<br />
have risen from being mere industrial tools<br />
to becoming strong competition for natural<br />
stones. The situation in Ukraine has led to<br />
many governments around the world banning<br />
Russian diamonds. An ever-increasing demand<br />
from consumers for responsibly sourced<br />
jewellery, both environmentally and socially,<br />
has deepened both of these issues. It would<br />
be easy to think that the rare, smaller market<br />
share coloured diamonds might lose out in<br />
the face of all of this but that might not be the<br />
case.<br />
Fancy diamonds come from a wide number of<br />
mines scattered around the world. Australia's<br />
Ellendale mine, previously and hopefully<br />
again a strong source of yellow diamonds, has<br />
recently re-commenced operations. South<br />
Africa, India, Brazil, Venezuela, Guyana and<br />
Indonesia all produce fancy colour diamonds.<br />
A Russian ban creates opportunities for these<br />
mines, especially if consumers are educated<br />
about these other sources.<br />
Lab-grown diamonds also produce coloured<br />
stones and, at the moment, trends have<br />
focussed that production on the perennially<br />
popular colours of blue, pink and yellow. It<br />
wouldn't be unreasonable to assume that<br />
lab-grown versions of fancy stones will raise<br />
the profile of coloured diamonds as a whole<br />
in the same way as they have for colourless<br />
natural diamonds. That is, a cheaper product<br />
encourages more consumers into the market<br />
– those who dream of owning the natural<br />
20<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
To schedule an appointment, please contact us:<br />
L. J. WEST DIAMONDS INC. | 589 5th Ave, Suite 1102 | New York, NY 10017, U.S.A. | T +1 212 997 0940<br />
L. J. WEST AU PTY LTD | Level 9, 225 St Georges Terrace | Perth, WA 6000, Australia | T +61 40 997 6981
Info@LJWestDiamonds.com | www.LJWestDiamonds.com | www.ScottWestDiamonds.com
product will always graduate there in the end,<br />
but the wider field enables trends to grow and<br />
flourish.<br />
The setting of a coloured stone is just as<br />
important as the stone itself.<br />
With coloured diamonds ranging in hue from<br />
very subtle pastel tones through to intense<br />
and vivid fancy colours, the choice of setting<br />
becomes crucial. Metal colours and the<br />
shades of accompanying stones must be made<br />
to compliment the centre piece. Contrasting<br />
a fancy stone with pure white diamonds is<br />
always a striking look, or a harmonious blend<br />
can be achieved by pairing the stone with<br />
others sharing the same gentle nuance of<br />
colour. Designers can celebrate the jewel in a<br />
way that can be difficult to achieve with white<br />
diamonds.<br />
Colour is naturally very evocative. A coloured<br />
diamond can carry emotional, imaginative<br />
and poetic qualities for the designer and the<br />
wearer. Colours can symbolise many things –<br />
softness, love, strength, sophistication, royalty,<br />
power. For a designer, this can be an exciting<br />
palette. For the consumer, it can be very a<br />
personal form of expression.<br />
But they should certainly be worn to be seen.<br />
Fancy that!<br />
Like everything in life, coloured diamonds<br />
cross an entire spectrum, and devising a<br />
precise grading system is a challenging<br />
business. Several systems are currently in<br />
A purple diamond from the Argyle mine, Rio Tinto<br />
use — the GIA<br />
system being<br />
the most wellknown.<br />
CIBJO<br />
recommends<br />
another<br />
schema, while<br />
AGS claims to<br />
have a ‘new<br />
approach’ they<br />
describe as<br />
‘insanely easy’<br />
to use.<br />
Laboratories<br />
grade against<br />
a set of<br />
master stones covering hue and intensity.<br />
The Gemmological Institute of America (GIA)<br />
developed a uniform list of 12 main colours,<br />
90 secondary hues, 9 different intensity levels,<br />
and over 230 colour combinations<br />
Try singing this to<br />
the rainbow song:<br />
Red, Orangish-<br />
Red, Reddish-<br />
Orange, Orange,<br />
Yellowish-Orange,<br />
Yellow-Orange,<br />
Orange-Yellow,<br />
Orangish-Yellow,<br />
Yellow, Greenish-<br />
Yellow,<br />
Green-Yellow,<br />
Yellow-Green,<br />
Yellowish-Green,<br />
Green, Bluish-<br />
Green, Blue-<br />
Green, Green-<br />
Blue, Greenish-Blue, Blue, Violetish-Blue,<br />
Bluish-Violet, Violet, Purple, Reddish-Purple,<br />
Red-Purple, Purple-Red, Purplish-Red.<br />
There’s also White (which are actually milky<br />
rather than colourless), Black (which are<br />
opaque), Gray, Pink and Brown.<br />
On top of those are the ‘decorative’ terms,<br />
such as 'canary' for certain shades of yellow,<br />
and ‘cognac’, ‘champagne’ and sometimes<br />
‘coffee’ for various brown diamonds because<br />
the marketing world considers the word<br />
‘brown’ to be a value-killer.<br />
Above: A brown rough diamond crystal from the<br />
Argyle mine showing the tetrahedral shape.<br />
The Hope Diamond.<br />
Once the hue has been established, the colour<br />
saturation is then labelled with one of nine<br />
descriptors: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy<br />
Light, Fancy, Fancy Dark, Fancy Intense, Fancy<br />
Deep, Fancy Vivid.<br />
How do diamonds get their colour?<br />
And what’s so special about the pink ones?<br />
All diamonds are made up of carbon atoms<br />
arranged in rigid tetrahedrons – a shape<br />
that can be seen at the macroscopic level in<br />
natural rough diamonds. Pure diamonds are<br />
transparent and colourless. They’re very rare<br />
and so very valuable.<br />
Most naturally-coloured diamonds are<br />
formed with trace elements react with<br />
the carbon atoms during the diamond’s<br />
creation. Chemical elements such as nitrogen,<br />
sulphur and boron are trapped during the<br />
crystallisation process resulting in shades of<br />
yellow, green and blue.<br />
Blue, Gray and Green<br />
Boron is the element responsible for tingeing a<br />
diamond blue. When this impurity is present,<br />
it bonds to carbon in the crystal structure,<br />
absorbing the red, yellow and green areas of<br />
the colour spectrum leaving our eye to see<br />
blue reflected. Blue diamonds are extremely<br />
rare. The generally have a hint of grey so rarely<br />
get that highly saturated ‘sapphire’ colour.<br />
Fancy green diamonds are most often light in<br />
24<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
The Okavango Blue – the largest blue diamond ever discovered in<br />
Botswana, it caught media attention because its original size, 41.11 carats,<br />
was comparable to that of the famous Hope Diamond, whose clarity and<br />
purity this newly discovered diamond exceeded. Its weight reduced to<br />
20.46 carats after cutting and polishing.<br />
tone and low in saturation, and often muted<br />
in colour, affected by grey hints. In most green<br />
diamonds, the hue is strongest at the surface<br />
of the stone and rarely extends through the<br />
diamond. This leaves cutters with interesting<br />
challenges.<br />
Green diamonds occur when a diamond<br />
makes its journey to the earth’s surface and<br />
spends a few million years in close contact<br />
with radioactive rocks. The radioactivity<br />
displaces the carbon atoms from their normal<br />
positions in the crystal structure. Since<br />
green diamonds can be created artificially by<br />
exposing a low-grade blue or grey diamond to<br />
irradiation, greens are typically viewed with<br />
suspicion.<br />
Orange and Yellow<br />
Yellow and orange diamonds owe their hue to<br />
the element nitrogen. Nitrogen atoms in the<br />
crystal arrange in such a way that blue light<br />
is absorbed, leaving a yellow colour visible to<br />
the human eye. Yellow diamonds are more<br />
common amid the fancy colours and are<br />
sometimes described as ‘canary’ despite that<br />
not being a proper grading term.<br />
Orange coloured diamonds arise when<br />
nitrogen within the crystal groups in a specific<br />
way that absorbs light in both the blue and<br />
yellow spectrums.<br />
Brown and Black<br />
Brown is the most common colour and brown<br />
diamonds also the earliest diamonds to be<br />
used in jewellery, having been set into rings by<br />
the Romans in the second century. The colour<br />
didn’t stay popular though and spent a long<br />
time only being considered worthy enough for<br />
industrial use.<br />
It wasn’t until the Argyle mine commenced<br />
operation in the 1980s and abundant<br />
quantities of brown diamonds became<br />
available. Clever Australian jewellers and<br />
marketers used these brown diamonds in<br />
jewellery and gave them new names —<br />
cognac and champagne — and the stones are<br />
once again in favour.<br />
Brown diamonds can range in tone from very<br />
pale to very dark and the market seems to<br />
prefer browns in medium to dark tones with a<br />
warm to reddish modifying colour.<br />
Black diamonds didn’t begin to achieve favour<br />
until the 1990s when designers began using<br />
them in jewellery contrasting tiny colourless<br />
stones in pave settings.<br />
Pink and Red<br />
While other colours<br />
are due to the<br />
presence of trace<br />
elements, pinks are<br />
a different story. No<br />
trace elements have<br />
ever been found<br />
in pink diamonds.<br />
Instead, the colour is<br />
formed by a distortion<br />
in the diamond’s crystal lattice, caused by<br />
intense heat and pressure from all directions<br />
after the stone’s formation. This distortion<br />
alters the position of the carbon atoms which<br />
in turn changes the qualities of light reflected<br />
by the diamond.<br />
The 5.03-carat DeYoung Red is an<br />
exceptionally rare coloured diamond.<br />
Smithsonian Institution, National<br />
Museum of Natural History.<br />
Pinks are found around the world but those<br />
from Australia’s Argyle mine are said to have<br />
the finest colour of fancy, intense pink. This<br />
is because a set of geological circumstances,<br />
millions of year ago, resulted in Argyle<br />
diamonds possessing densely-packed graining<br />
planes that emanate pink colour. This graining<br />
is sometimes so pronounced it is visible to the<br />
naked eye. By contrast, non-Argyle pinks have<br />
few and less distinct graining planes and are<br />
therefore lighter in colour.<br />
Red diamonds are ultra-rare and are<br />
essentially just very deeply coloured pink<br />
diamonds, following the same formation<br />
causes as pinks.<br />
Violet and Purple<br />
Even less is known about the formation of<br />
violet and purple diamonds. It believed that<br />
hydrogen is present during their formation<br />
as well distortion due to extreme heat and<br />
pressure.<br />
Treating stones<br />
As recent years have seen a rise in popularity<br />
and demand for natural coloured diamonds,<br />
and as that demand has lead to a rise in<br />
their prices, the market for treated and<br />
colour-enhanced diamonds has evolved<br />
tremendously.<br />
Colour-treated diamonds are not lab-grown<br />
diamonds – they are natural mined diamonds<br />
that have been colour-enhanced. Their price<br />
is higher than the low colour quality stone<br />
they were before treatment, and depending<br />
on inclusions etc, they may rival lab-grown<br />
coloured stones in price.<br />
The main methodology is called HPHT - High<br />
Pressure High Temperature. This procedure<br />
can shift pale yellows to Fancy Vivid or change<br />
them altogether to form Fancy blues, purples<br />
or red.<br />
Interestingly, this is the same procedure that<br />
can convert cheap very light brown diamonds<br />
and turn them into colourless diamonds.<br />
Science becomes art.<br />
The largest pink diamond ever found in Australia is the Argyle Pink Jubilee<br />
diamond (8.01 carats). It was donated to Museums Victoria by Rio Tinto.<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 25
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A division of the CPG Group of companies
By Stefan Juengling<br />
Chemgold<br />
MORE SCIENCE THAN ART:<br />
INSIDE THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY TECHSPACE<br />
Each year, developments in CAD, CAM, and 3D printing push the boundaries of what can be<br />
designed, cast and printed. The ability to design with CAD has become quite affordable, as increasing<br />
automation in jewellery continues to push its uptake among modern jewellers. Here we spoke to four<br />
major players in the Australian jewellery tech scene to see how improvements to jewellery design and<br />
manufacture is positively affecting the Australian jewellery industry.<br />
We are all privileged to live in<br />
interesting times for jewellery<br />
design and manufacture: a digital<br />
age where fine jewellery becomes more<br />
science than art. In recent years CAD/CAM<br />
and 3D printing has seen tremendous growth<br />
as an accepted technology in the Australian<br />
jewellery industry. The design freedom<br />
afforded by these digital tools and the speed<br />
with which a precise and repeatable 3D model<br />
can be produced is truly a revolution in our<br />
industry. Current and emerging jewellery tech<br />
frees our designers from the constraints of<br />
conventional manufacturing processes and<br />
allows them to create complex and beautiful<br />
pieces that are ready to finish in a matter of<br />
hours.<br />
The state of the jewellery tech scene<br />
All our contributors lauded the design<br />
and manufacturing potential that modern<br />
jewellery tech affords them. Evotech Pacific<br />
are the distributors of Gemvision and Asiga<br />
products in Australia and New Zealand, and its<br />
Director Anthony Nowlan said he’s seen some<br />
pretty big leaps forward in terms of jewellery<br />
design software capabilities.<br />
“Gemvision (creators of the Matrix and<br />
CounterSketch software), acquired TDM<br />
(creators of the RhinoGold software), and have<br />
combined the best parts of all three software<br />
applications into the one – MatrixGold,” he<br />
said.<br />
He said that with MatrixGold jewellery design<br />
software, jewellers can quickly and efficiently<br />
design pieces and utilise parametric history to<br />
easier adjust models if required.<br />
“Rendering capability is also vastly improved<br />
enabling designers to create photorealistic<br />
images of their designs.”<br />
Chemgold is a family owned and run business<br />
with a proven track record of supplying the<br />
Australian jewellery industry with precious<br />
metal products and services for more<br />
than 30years. Its director Darren Sher said<br />
that their jewellery clients are becoming<br />
increasingly aware of the quality Chemgold<br />
can produce from CAD.<br />
28<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
“Improved<br />
technology in<br />
printing allows<br />
finer and more<br />
intricate pieces<br />
to be printed<br />
and cast easily,<br />
when using<br />
the correct<br />
software and machine,” he said.<br />
DesignDrawCAD<br />
“The trend has continued with more lower<br />
priced point 3D printers entering the market<br />
which are suited to some businesses that want<br />
to view the prototype before production or<br />
being able to print the wax/resin themselves<br />
and send to us for casting.”<br />
Production Manager Desmond Ambagtsheer<br />
at well-known jewellery supplier Peter W Beck<br />
said their company have always been at the<br />
forefront of jewellery tech.<br />
“60 per cent of ‘retail ready’ products we<br />
produce would in some way employ CAD/CAM<br />
technology: CAD to develop new products or<br />
revamp old, CAM for product manufacturing<br />
using machines such as 3D printers, mills,<br />
lathes, and faceting machines,” he said.<br />
DesignDrawCAD is a Sydney-based CAD<br />
jewellery design service headed up by CAD<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Designer Helen Pusenjak who acts<br />
as a single, client-focused CAD designer. Helen<br />
said more and more jewellers are looking to<br />
take additional advantage of CAD’s potential<br />
to improve their business.<br />
“This may be to create the new stock pieces,<br />
produce bespoke pieces more suited to the<br />
CAD/casting process or at a certain price<br />
point, set up a range of jewellery for ready<br />
modification or to simply increase output,”<br />
she said.<br />
Huge uptake in CAD/CAM<br />
Darren said that attitudes toward the<br />
technology has improved and become more<br />
positive as it continues to become more<br />
mainstream.<br />
“I would estimate a huge percentage of<br />
jewellers and jewellery retailers now use<br />
CAD/CAM as an additional tool to design and<br />
manufacture jewellery.<br />
“It has continued to increase with more<br />
jewellers and retailers purchasing CAD<br />
software for in-house use and our customers<br />
taking advantage of CAD-based libraries<br />
they can order from such as our JewelMount<br />
collection.”<br />
In addition, Darren reported that an increasing<br />
number of jewellers have invested in the CAD<br />
software themselves.<br />
“This has been<br />
an incredibly<br />
helpful tool<br />
to show their<br />
customers<br />
how the new<br />
technology<br />
provides them<br />
with their<br />
desired piece of<br />
jewellery.<br />
“Jewellers benefit<br />
by viewing<br />
CAD/CAM as<br />
another tool at<br />
their disposal to<br />
save time, money and simplify the process in<br />
manufacturing, not replacing their skill but<br />
rather assisting where possible.”<br />
Anthony reported that the COVID-19<br />
pandemic led to an increase in software<br />
uptake from clients who were previously<br />
undecided.<br />
DesignDrawCAD<br />
“The ability to continue working and designing<br />
with efficiency whilst in lockdown has been<br />
very appealing to many of these new clients. “<br />
Desmond said that Peter W Beck customers<br />
use CAD/CAM to produce their own products<br />
on their own 3D printers and mills for casting<br />
and/or engraving.<br />
Chemgold<br />
Pushing boundaries with cuttingedge<br />
design and manufacture<br />
Advances in new software or updates in<br />
existing software means that for Chemgold<br />
and their clients it has become increasingly<br />
more efficient to design and offer their clients<br />
designs that were previously not possible or<br />
unaffordable. Darren said the latest software<br />
releases have made the design process<br />
smoother, sometimes easier, that still requires<br />
some skill to master, but now cuts design time<br />
in half compared to five years ago.<br />
“We have also found that with the<br />
introduction of 3D scanning items, that the<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 29
possibility of replicating pieces become much<br />
faster, and creating fitted wedding bands is no<br />
longer a headache to the designer, as we can<br />
scan the engagement ring and simply build<br />
around it.<br />
“…organic designs have also been more<br />
popular in the past few years, and we have<br />
advanced our team with the software and<br />
knowledge required to assist with the growing<br />
demand for these.”<br />
Anthony said that jewellery design software’s<br />
potential to design delicate, complex, and/<br />
or organic shapes has always been a major<br />
drawcard for many designers and jewellers,<br />
and it’s for these reasons that jewellers and<br />
designers have invested in the tech. However,<br />
he said he felt that the ability to adjust those<br />
designs easily has at times been difficult and<br />
cumbersome, sometimes causing the designer<br />
to completely re-design those parts.<br />
“The latest version of MatrixGold makes this<br />
task easier and less likely that a part will need<br />
to be completely re-designed from scratch.”<br />
Desmond said that CAD/CAM has opened<br />
many new opportunities in product design<br />
and the services they supply to their<br />
customers.<br />
“Customers want the freedom<br />
to design their own individual<br />
pieces: CAD/CAM allows us<br />
to communicate precisely with the<br />
client and then produce the part<br />
to their tolerances.”<br />
Chemgold<br />
3D printer go brrr!<br />
Improvements in printer<br />
resin and wax qualities has<br />
also improved the quality<br />
of pieces for CAM users<br />
and their clients. Anthony<br />
said that printing resins<br />
have advanced greatly<br />
and produced pieces with<br />
better surface finish and<br />
quicker build times.<br />
“Better formulas with resins and investment<br />
powders used within the casting process have<br />
also lessened the likelihood of a negative<br />
reaction with the investments used within the<br />
casting process, improving the result greatly.”<br />
He also lauded modern printing technology’s<br />
ability to reduce turnaround time.<br />
Evotech Asiga MAX X 3D Printer<br />
Evotech Pacific<br />
“…it depends greatly<br />
on both the resin and<br />
the geometry being<br />
printed…but we have<br />
seen the latest Asiga<br />
Resin (SuperCast X)<br />
create a full build plate<br />
of standard height rings<br />
in around 2 hours.”<br />
Desmond said their company is always<br />
investing in the latest technology and the<br />
newest software.<br />
“Keeping up to date allows us to push the<br />
limits on design and increase our capabilities<br />
and efficiencies,” he said.<br />
“Our latest innovation would be<br />
the use CAD/CAM to directly<br />
machine metallic<br />
components,<br />
lasering and<br />
milling<br />
products<br />
and<br />
having the<br />
ability and<br />
flexibility<br />
to use multiple CAD/CAM platforms to create<br />
a single product.”<br />
Darren said that Chemgold’s leading<br />
technology and wax printers ensure customers<br />
receive the absolute best surface finish from<br />
their CAD files, along with the highest quality<br />
castings.<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> tech helps keep it<br />
Australian made<br />
Matrix Gold Rendering<br />
Evotech Pacific<br />
In an<br />
increasingly<br />
globalist scene,<br />
the trend for<br />
some major<br />
jewellery<br />
companies<br />
over the past<br />
few decades is<br />
to outsource<br />
manufacturing<br />
to countries<br />
with low<br />
labour costs and operations such as China<br />
and India. This helps the companies from<br />
domestic economic downturns, but at the<br />
expense of potential local manufacturing<br />
jobs. Fortunately, from Helen’s point of view,<br />
an increasing number of jewellers are opting<br />
to advance jewellery wholly produced in<br />
Australia, bringing work back from overseas.<br />
Evolight2<br />
Evotech Pacific<br />
“They (the jewellers) profit from improved<br />
communication resulting in an accelerated<br />
process and superior models.”<br />
ProLaser Easy Laser Welder<br />
by Evotech Pacific<br />
30<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
DesignDrawCAD<br />
Darren said that with the COVID-19 pandemic<br />
and its subsequent issues with freight, a lot<br />
of manufacturers and retail stores opted for<br />
Australian-made.<br />
“Not only is it a great selling point for most of<br />
the market, it also reduced their turnaround<br />
time greatly by having something made locally<br />
and delivered much quicker than any overseas<br />
competitor.”<br />
Evotech Pacific L3 Magic Laser<br />
Engraver Photo Engraving<br />
He said this has had the flow-on effect of<br />
manufacturing roles opening en masse<br />
throughout the industry over the past<br />
few years with jewellers, setters and CAD<br />
designers being in high demand across the<br />
country.<br />
“This shows that there is a lot more interest<br />
in bringing manufacturing back to Australian<br />
shores and keeping it here.”<br />
Anthony said<br />
that due to<br />
the increased<br />
pricing in<br />
outsourcing<br />
work overseas<br />
combined with<br />
their inherent<br />
communication<br />
breakdowns<br />
and their<br />
subsequent<br />
blowout in<br />
design time,<br />
Evotech Pacific<br />
have had quite<br />
a few clients who have recently purchased<br />
their own licenses of MatrixGold.<br />
“For many of these particular clients, it has<br />
been more economic (financially and in time),<br />
to learn the software/hardware and keep<br />
everything in house.”<br />
The revolutions of tomorrow<br />
When asked to speculate on what<br />
the future holds in the jewellery<br />
tech scene, our contributors<br />
predicted improvements in<br />
software design capabilities,<br />
faster job turnaround times,<br />
and greater uptake in the<br />
technology. Darren believes that<br />
CAD programs will become more<br />
user-friendly, printers will print<br />
faster and in higher resolutions,<br />
and developments in job-tracking<br />
technology will aid Chemgold’s<br />
customers with up-to-date<br />
information on where their jobs are in<br />
the system.<br />
“If the past has taught us anything it is<br />
that it will be developing at a rapid pace and<br />
changing in ways we cannot yet foresee.”<br />
Helen predicts that use of the CAD/casting<br />
process will expand because it boosts output<br />
for business, helps to produce pieces that can<br />
be offered at competitive prices, and expands<br />
the styles a business can offer.<br />
“Given the scarcity of apprenticeships being<br />
offered and the resulting decrease in qualified<br />
jewellers coming up, this process will become<br />
a necessary option.<br />
“With the exponential advances in<br />
technological innovation, opportunities for<br />
cross-over items of jewellery will also grow.”<br />
Anthony foresees an increasing uptake in<br />
Direct Manufacturing 3D Printing, as research<br />
and development in the field has produced<br />
far better quality metal powders and thus a<br />
better surface finish.<br />
“…whilst I don’t think Direct Manufacture 3D<br />
Printing will replace any sector of existing<br />
jewellery manufacturing, it will certainly add<br />
a new dimension for those designers who<br />
create pieces and parts that are not possible<br />
to create with current tech and processes.<br />
“It is certainly an exciting time to be a<br />
jeweller!”<br />
DesignDrawCAD<br />
Oval Trilogy render<br />
32<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
WD Lab Grown Diamonds<br />
signs deal with JC Jewels<br />
WD Lab Grown Diamonds (WD), the first diamond company in the world to be thirdparty<br />
sustainability certified and to achieve 100 per cent climate neutrality, has named<br />
Australia-based JC Jewels Pty Ltd their Authorised Distribution Partner in the Australia<br />
and New Zealand markets.<br />
WD is a pioneering technology company<br />
and market leader in Chemical Vapor<br />
Deposition (CVD) diamonds, with laboratory<br />
headquarters in the Washington, D.C. area.<br />
Each WD diamond is certified 100 per cent<br />
climate neutral and is backed by a full U.S.<br />
origin traceability guarantee.<br />
“This critical partnership with JC Jewels<br />
enables us to further scale WD’s footprint<br />
in-step with the rapidly expanding global<br />
market for lab grown diamonds,” said Sue<br />
Rechner, CEO of WD Lab Grown Diamonds.<br />
“We are pleased to have a partner that shares<br />
our commitment to leading with integrity,<br />
innovation and a focus on sustainability —<br />
their well-earned and trusted reputation in<br />
the Australia and New Zealand markets will<br />
help fuel our growth in this region.”<br />
JC Jewels was the first diamond wholesaler<br />
to launch laboratory grown diamonds in<br />
Australia and New Zealand, and today is the<br />
largest supplier and importer in this region.<br />
Through this agreement, JC Jewels will<br />
employ its sales, marketing and technology<br />
expertise to distribute WD’s Certified Climate<br />
Neutral and Sustainability Rated diamonds to<br />
their expansive customer network, thereby<br />
expanding consumer access to high-quality,<br />
‘As Grown’, and third-party certified laboratory<br />
grown diamonds. JC Jewels has become<br />
accredited by SCS Global Services, enabling a<br />
closed and verified chain of custody on all fully<br />
traceable WD diamonds.<br />
“Our principles and shared values are the<br />
cornerstone of our partnership with WD Lab<br />
Grown Diamonds,” said Craig Miller, CEO of<br />
JC Jewels. “Together with their team, we look<br />
forward to defining a new industry standard<br />
for sustainability and transparency within our<br />
market.”<br />
In the lab grown diamond space, specifically<br />
at the independent jeweller, retail training<br />
and education is paramount to success. In<br />
addition to access to WD’s industry-leading<br />
lab grown diamonds, JC Jewels customers<br />
will benefit from the team’s best-in-class<br />
custom training programs, as well as 24/7<br />
access to the newly unveiled WD Resource<br />
Center, an exclusive online learning and<br />
marketing portal. WD will be touring the<br />
platform to partners and distributors for the<br />
first time at JCK Las Vegas this <strong>June</strong>, where<br />
they are exhibiting within The Plumb Club.<br />
wdlabgrowndiamonds.com<br />
latitudediamonds.com<br />
jcjewels.com.au
MY LIFE IN JEWELLERY<br />
Leone Meatchem entered Australia's jewellery industry in 1949 and enjoyed a long,<br />
fulfilling and award-winning career in the trade. It is often said that life goes in<br />
circles, but Leone says hers runs in rings. This is her tale of her life in jewellery.<br />
My life was set on the jewellery<br />
path one night just before my<br />
fifteenth birthday when my mother<br />
informed me I was tell the teacher I would<br />
be leaving school on the day of my birthday.<br />
It was a Friday and I was to start work on the<br />
following Monday. I had been about to sit for<br />
the Leaving Certificate and I enjoyed school.<br />
I'd hoped to go on to Art School and I had<br />
dreams of using skills gained there to support<br />
me through a future in ballet.<br />
Needless to say, I didn't sleep much that<br />
night, mostly crying tears of disappointment.<br />
In earlier school holidays, my mother had<br />
taken me to the Angus & Coote building<br />
George Street, Sydney where I had been<br />
introduced to Mr James Byrne and shown<br />
the factory. I'd seen a long table with rows<br />
of young women on each side, meticulously<br />
filling metal badge castings with enamel. I<br />
imagined that this was work I was to do and<br />
it looked like it could be fun. Mr Byrne asked<br />
to see some of my artwork and I left some<br />
drawings with him. In the past, I'd hoped this<br />
might lead to some work for the Christmas<br />
school holidays – but I'd hoped to be back at<br />
school afterwards.<br />
But on Monday 24 October, 1949, I dutifully<br />
travelled alone to George Street, feeling<br />
very shy. I met again with Mr Byrne and<br />
was surprised to be asked to look at some<br />
sketches. He called me “Miss Rush” which<br />
had a pleasing, grown-up ring to it and he<br />
mentioned that he admired the drawings that<br />
I'd left with him on my first visit.<br />
The sketches that he showed me were of a<br />
cricketer – a figure possibly to use on a trophy.<br />
Mr Byrne asked if I could see anything wrong<br />
with the sketch and I meekly pointed out that<br />
one arm was wrong. He handed me a pencil<br />
and asked me to correct it.<br />
Imagine my surprise when he<br />
looked at my alterations to the<br />
drawing and asked me, right then<br />
and there, if I'd like to become<br />
a designer and learn from the<br />
present designer, Joyce Caldicott.<br />
Of course, I said yes!<br />
He led me into a room where two<br />
desks were positioned – one, the<br />
larger, Miss Caldicott's, the other<br />
slightly smaller one, already set<br />
up with a drawing board, would<br />
be mine.<br />
I was absolutely so happy. I<br />
started that day and loved every<br />
minute of what was, for me, one<br />
big art lesson. The office staff<br />
christened me 'Blossom' and<br />
my training began. I took to the<br />
role very quickly and was soon<br />
designing badges, trophies and,<br />
as the large jeweller's section was<br />
on the same floor, jewellery too.<br />
Mr Roy Coote was a regular visitor to our<br />
office. He was a softly spoken man who<br />
perused our<br />
designs and<br />
watched us<br />
work. The<br />
jewellery<br />
manager, Mr<br />
Eric Davies,<br />
34<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
sometimes allowed me to watch how the<br />
pieces were made, quite often asking me to<br />
sketch a shoulder design or side view of a ring<br />
etc.<br />
Three happy years later and I was a fully<br />
trained “Angus & Coote Designer.”<br />
An unexpected retrenchment of staff meant<br />
that all married women employees were to<br />
leave and as Joyce had married the previous<br />
year that meant the loss of the office's senior<br />
designer. I was called to Mr Byrne's office too.<br />
Joyce had dropped the hint that if I was to<br />
leave I might join a ballet company. I couldn't<br />
deny that if such an opportunity arose I would<br />
certainly take it and so, I was asked to leave as<br />
well. I left Angus & Coote just before turning<br />
eighteen with all good wishes, chocolates and<br />
flowers and beautiful references too.<br />
I had thought I might have a holiday, but no,<br />
Mother marched me off to an employment<br />
agency where a kind lady mentioned she<br />
had a nephew, a jeweller, working for a small<br />
manufacturing company, which also made<br />
badges. She made enquiries and I was soon<br />
having an interview (with my mother in<br />
attendance!) at Messrs. Denham, Neal and<br />
Treloar, Pitt St. Sydney.<br />
I started the very next week and spent much<br />
of the remainder of my working life there<br />
designing badges, trophies and of course,<br />
rings for these three wonderful bosses who<br />
looked after me like three fathers!<br />
The new job had a room for jewellers with<br />
Mr. Les Denham in charge. In this room<br />
also I met Rex and Ray Merton, Rex Steele<br />
Merten's father and uncle. In another room,<br />
Mr.Norm Neal looked after the engravers.<br />
One, a particularly nice young man, Howard<br />
Meatchem, already through his apprenticeship<br />
and an expert hand engraver, became my<br />
husband two years later.<br />
A few more years on and our first little one<br />
was expected. The three bosses began to<br />
panic – no designer! – but I quickly pointed<br />
out I could easily work at home. Howard<br />
still worked in the city – he could take work<br />
in and pick it up, easy! (Who needed Zoom<br />
Leone Meatchem and Rex Merten in an early<br />
issue of <strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> magazine.<br />
meetings?) By 1956, we were living in<br />
Lindfield, and by a lovely coincidence, James<br />
Byrne lived opposite.<br />
Award-winning pearl necklet<br />
was displayed in Japan and Broome.<br />
Working from home was an excellent<br />
arrangement that allowed me to pursue my<br />
career and raise our five children, including a<br />
beautiful surprise set of twins. My husband,<br />
Howard, began his own business, taking rooms<br />
in Sydney's Dymocks Building and, later, the<br />
Saunders Building in King Street.<br />
In 1970, I noticed a jewellery design<br />
competition in an early <strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>.<br />
On a whim, I sent in a design. I was delighted<br />
to win a prize in the AJA's first competition.<br />
[The AJA was the precursor to the JAA.] Rex<br />
Steele Merten also won a prize and Howard<br />
and I celebrated the award evening with Rex<br />
and Gabrielle.<br />
Although still designing for DNT, I read about<br />
the De Beers Diamonds International Awards<br />
in 1972. This award was to be judged on<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 35
the drawn design, so I sat down<br />
at home and fiddled with a<br />
design and dared to send it<br />
to USA. It had been a misty<br />
morning that day and I had<br />
taken a walk along the creek<br />
near our home. I stood for<br />
a moment admiring the<br />
dew drops on a cobweb and<br />
knew immediately<br />
that I had found<br />
inspiration for my<br />
design. I named it<br />
Morning Dew and it<br />
featured 49 diamonds hanging on delicate threads from a<br />
golden branch.<br />
To receive news by telegram that I had won was a huge,<br />
unexpected surprise. Not only was I the only Australian<br />
to win that year; but the first Australian woman to win<br />
(not in the name of a company.) After meeting with the<br />
representatives, I realised that I had to have the design<br />
made up. Of course, I had used lots of diamonds and a tricky<br />
design.<br />
By now, Angus & Coote had taken over the big corner shop in<br />
the Saunders Building (Howard came with the building!) and the<br />
company was really keen to make up the design.<br />
And, in a delightful circle, I agreed to design exclusively for them for<br />
the following four years.<br />
Amazingly, after more than two decades, I was once again an “Angus &<br />
Coote Designer.” My life had travelled a full circle.<br />
I needed to know<br />
more about the<br />
stones I was using,<br />
so I graduated<br />
from a gemmology<br />
course in 1977<br />
and continued on<br />
with the Valuation<br />
Certificate and<br />
Diamond grading<br />
with Geoff Toombs.<br />
Now I could supply<br />
the right stones,<br />
value the finished<br />
piece and as a<br />
JP, sort out some<br />
probate valuations<br />
too if needed.<br />
The next years brought another fifteen design awards, including De<br />
Beers Diamonds Today, Australian <strong>Jewellery</strong> Awards, also taking part<br />
in pearl design exhibitions in Japan and Broome. Of course, all my<br />
designs were created in a world pre-computer aided design. I used<br />
pencil and paint and I share some with you here. I loved taking part in<br />
the recent JAA Design Sketch Draw competition.<br />
During those years, I designed many interesting trophies, the <strong>World</strong><br />
Gold Cricket Cup, several Mayoral chains including the ones for<br />
Katherine NT, Wollongong and<br />
one for the City of Gosford. The<br />
Gosford chain saw me chatting<br />
to the then mayor about the<br />
design, never imagining that<br />
not only would we be living<br />
on the beautiful NSW Central<br />
Coast years later but that our<br />
daughter would marry that<br />
mayor's young cousin! Life.<br />
Circles. And wedding rings.<br />
Now, more than 70 years<br />
on from the day that I first<br />
tip-toed nervously into the<br />
jewellery industry, I have<br />
just designed my grandson's<br />
engagement ring.<br />
Leone featured in an<br />
Australian Women's Weekly article in 1972.<br />
36<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
IGJS <strong>2022</strong> Jaipur caters to rising<br />
global demand<br />
The Gem and <strong>Jewellery</strong> Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) of India<br />
recently concluded the exclusive B2B jewellery show the IGJS<br />
in association with Gemfields, at JECC, Jaipur, India’s coloured<br />
gemstone capital, from 10th to 12th May, <strong>2022</strong>.<br />
The three-day show saw more than 200 leading exhibitors<br />
showcasing their gems and designer jewellery to 650 international<br />
buyers from 48 countries.<br />
It was the first physical event hosted exclusively for global buyers<br />
in India to increase exports and to exemplify India’s strong hold<br />
on the gem and jewellery industry. The exclusive show catered<br />
to all product segments of gem and jewellery such as coloured<br />
gemstones, loose diamonds, plain gold jewellery, diamond studded<br />
jewellery, gemstone studded jewellery and silver jewellery.<br />
India is a world leader in cut and polished diamonds, the coloured<br />
gemstones capital of the world, and the fastest growing gold<br />
jewellery exporter and the IGJS show catered to every sourcing<br />
need of the global market.<br />
India’s gem and jewellery industry exports nearly USD 40 billion<br />
annually. Top markets are the USA accounting for 37 percent of<br />
India’s G&J exports, Hong Kong (24%), UAE (14.5%), Belgium (5%)<br />
and Israel (4%).<br />
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COLOURED DIAMONDS FIND FAVOUR<br />
AS JEWELLERY MILESTONE GIFT<br />
Coloured diamonds are gaining in popularity and are increasingly purchased as a jewel to mark<br />
life’s milestones, according to Tony Smales, owner and manager of Smales Jewellers.<br />
With five watch and jewellery stores<br />
in Western Australia, Smales has<br />
the exclusive agency for Hearts on<br />
Fire Diamonds in the state and also includes<br />
Argyle Pink, champagne and cognac coloured<br />
diamonds in its offer.<br />
A family run business, Smales Jewellers has<br />
a long history in WA. “Our original store<br />
commenced in Kalgoorlie just after the 2nd<br />
<strong>World</strong> War some 70 years ago,” Mr Smales<br />
pointed out. The head office is based in<br />
Subiaco, where the busiest Smales store is<br />
located, followed by Bunbury while three<br />
other outlets are located in Kalgoorlie,<br />
Geraldton and Karratha. All stores have onsite<br />
jewellery workrooms.<br />
The high end stores specialise in handmade<br />
jewellery and luxury watches. Smales’<br />
comprehensive diamond offer includes a wide<br />
selection of engagement, wedding, eternity<br />
dress rings, pendants, earrings, bangles and<br />
tennis bracelets.<br />
“Our diamonds are sourced from our<br />
Australian supplier who we have dealt with for<br />
many years. In regard to the pink diamonds,<br />
we will always offer a certified stone. This<br />
gives our customers the guarantee that<br />
it is Argyle and peace of mind that their<br />
purchase has the heritage and identification.<br />
In addition, we also produce Ellendale Yellow<br />
diamonds for some of our products. These<br />
diamonds also come with identification,” Mr<br />
Smales explained.<br />
Demand for coloured diamonds has increased<br />
dramatically since the announcement of<br />
the closure of Argyle Diamond mine and<br />
he attributes this to growing consumer<br />
awareness that the rare stones have the<br />
potential to grow in value. In his opinion,<br />
however, coloured diamonds should be set<br />
and worn in jewellery. “I think they should be<br />
incorporated into a ring, pendant or earrings<br />
– pieces made to be enjoyed rather than have<br />
them sit inside a safe for pure investment that<br />
may take years to realise.”<br />
Mr Smales has observed a recent trend where<br />
coloured diamonds are being used to mark<br />
important life<br />
occasions.<br />
“We have<br />
seen this a<br />
lot with the<br />
‘push present’<br />
and partners<br />
giving pink or<br />
blue diamonds<br />
to reflect<br />
gender at the<br />
birth of their<br />
children. Other<br />
customers love<br />
the contrast<br />
38<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
etween coloured and<br />
white diamonds.<br />
When you set a<br />
white diamond<br />
next to a coloured<br />
diamond, it really<br />
enhances the<br />
colour and makes<br />
it pop,” he said.<br />
Only natural<br />
diamonds are<br />
carried in Smales<br />
Jewellers.<br />
“Our stores have received a few<br />
requests for lab grown diamonds and while<br />
I can see some advantages, normally price, I<br />
still prefer to only deal in natural diamonds.<br />
I suppose it’s a personal thing for jewellery<br />
retailers and to a degree I think it is where<br />
you sit in the jewellery market. I would say<br />
that the majority of our diamond sales are<br />
in engagement rings and customers are still<br />
seeking that very special piece and do tend to<br />
hold into the tradition of choosing a natural<br />
diamond.”<br />
Overall sales of white and coloured diamonds<br />
through Smales WA outlets are dominated<br />
by the Round Brilliant Cut but there are<br />
exceptions.<br />
“We purchased a radiant cut Pink Argyle<br />
diamond for a customer recently and they<br />
had a specific request that required us to<br />
incorporate the pink diamond into a design.<br />
The stone was purchased for a long-term<br />
investment, but they wanted to wear it in a<br />
ring. The radiant cut and colour of the stone<br />
was perfect and the ring looked fantastic. It<br />
was so good to see the customer’s excitement<br />
when we presented her with her custom<br />
made completed design,” Mr Smales said.<br />
He believes the demand for<br />
fancy coloured diamonds<br />
will continue, especially<br />
since the Argyle<br />
Diamond Mine closure,<br />
noting “there is something extra<br />
special about choosing a unique<br />
colour diamond.”<br />
Coloured diamonds, however,<br />
have started to become<br />
more difficult to purchase,<br />
he conceded. “Prices have<br />
increased and choices are<br />
reduced, however, there<br />
is still availability. A good<br />
relationship with your<br />
suppliers is essential,” Mr<br />
Smales said.<br />
Gold nuggets, pearl and<br />
gemstone jewellery pieces<br />
are also carried by Smales<br />
stores which sell select graded<br />
natural stones like sapphire, ruby and<br />
emerald among others. “What determines<br />
the price of these stones is the quality of<br />
each and we rely on our suppliers to only<br />
send high grade stones for us to use in our<br />
manufacturing.”<br />
Smales Jewellers manufacture jewellery in<br />
18 karat yellow gold, white gold and pink<br />
gold but will often use platinum. “This metal<br />
is slightly harder to work with but has<br />
some advantages for<br />
the wearer and<br />
is quite popular<br />
with customers<br />
now. We often<br />
use platinum for the ring with white<br />
diamonds and we use rose or pink gold<br />
for the setting of the pink diamonds.<br />
This allows for the pink stone to show its<br />
beauty with less interference of the setting<br />
that holds the diamonds securely in place,” Mr<br />
Smales explained.<br />
He pointed out that Smales prides itself on<br />
attention to detail and customer satisfaction<br />
when someone is looking to purchase an<br />
engagement ring. “Some people choose a<br />
ring from our stock while others like parts<br />
of one ring and parts of another. If<br />
this is the case where they like<br />
different parts of different<br />
designs, we have the customer<br />
sit down with the store’s designer<br />
and come up with a new design with the<br />
customer. The item is then hand-made by<br />
our precision jeweller.<br />
“We generally do not use casting. Smales<br />
is perhaps a little more traditional than<br />
many but that doesn’t mean that we are<br />
old fashioned in manufacturing. In fact we<br />
use some of the latest tools, machines and<br />
techniques in the industry. We want to<br />
achieve a structurally sound piece that offers<br />
the customer excellence and satisfaction.<br />
“Gold and platinum metals are extremely<br />
durable, However from someone who has<br />
knowledge about the settings, claws, shank –<br />
they will wear over time. It’s much better and<br />
cheaper for the customer to have new claws<br />
fitted for example rather that losing their<br />
precious stone,” Mr Smales said.<br />
“On most occasions and especially when we<br />
use pink diamonds, we send the item on to<br />
an independent jewellery valuer. That ensures<br />
the value of the piece and that the price paid<br />
gives satisfaction to the customer. They know<br />
what they have purchased meets the industry<br />
standard and have received value for money.<br />
It also gives the customer the history of the<br />
stone on many occasions,” he explained.<br />
Smales generally draws<br />
its diamond stock<br />
from Australia but<br />
sources many items<br />
such as chains, earrings and pendants<br />
from Italy or Germany. “I have always<br />
travelled overseas to purchase but the<br />
Covid situation has limited those trips,” Mr<br />
Smales said.<br />
Smales Jewellers always advise their<br />
customers to bring their jewellery items in to<br />
be checked every 6 to 12 months. This service<br />
is provided free of charge and the item is<br />
cleaned at the same time.<br />
Over the years, Mr Smales has observed that<br />
like everything else, the jewellery industry has<br />
changed and manufacturers have improved.<br />
The stores in his family business are in the<br />
higher end of the market, he affirmed.<br />
“I am all about traditional jewellery stores not<br />
chain stores. Higher end jewellers value their<br />
reputation, they employ people that care and<br />
generally offer a high standard of product<br />
knowledge,” he said.<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 39
JEWELLERY IN THE<br />
METAVERSE<br />
CIBJO’s <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices webinar considers the effect and<br />
significance of the metaverse on jewellery and gemstone business.<br />
The world stands on the cusp of the next<br />
technological revolution, which will<br />
permanently affect the way in which<br />
we live, interact, recreate and do business.<br />
Popularly referred to as the metaverse, it<br />
will develop not as the result of a single<br />
scientific or engineering breakthrough, but<br />
rather because of a series of simultaneous<br />
and interconnected advances, among them<br />
virtual and augmented reality, the Internet of<br />
Things, artificial intelligence, 5G, blockchain,<br />
and the growing trade in cryptocurrencies and<br />
non-fungible tokens (NFTs).<br />
The metaverse that is being created is a shared<br />
3-D virtual environment that people access<br />
via the internet. Wearable devices facilitating<br />
virtual reality (VR) and augmented reality<br />
(AR) create a sense of physical presence in a<br />
digitally-generated world, which increasingly<br />
feels like it is real. Unencumbered by their<br />
physical location, time zone and even the<br />
languages they speak and understand,<br />
individuals operating in the metaverse can<br />
meet, play with and compete with one<br />
another, collaborate, create and trade.<br />
As was the case earlier with the introduction<br />
of the computer, the internet and the<br />
smartphone, no sector of the business<br />
community will not be affected or changed<br />
by the metaverse. And like those previous<br />
technological revolutions, the change will<br />
not just be adaptive, but fundamental –<br />
transforming the way in which businesses<br />
are structured, how their supply chains are<br />
monitored and managed, and how and what<br />
they design, manufacture, market and sell.<br />
CIBJO's <strong>Jewellery</strong> Industry Voices webinar on<br />
May 26, <strong>2022</strong>, focussed on the approaching<br />
technological revolution, considering its<br />
elements, impacts and overall significance. It<br />
is entitled “<strong>Jewellery</strong> in the metaverse: virtual,<br />
augmented and real.”<br />
The webinar panel includes Mahiar Borhanjoo,<br />
CEO of UNI Diamonds, a data and technology<br />
company serving the<br />
international diamond<br />
industry. Elle Hill, the<br />
founder and CEO of<br />
Hill & Co., a diamond,<br />
gemstone and jewellery<br />
launch and growth<br />
consultancy firm, and<br />
Laura Inghirami, the<br />
founder of Donna<br />
Jewel, a firm providing<br />
consulting services to<br />
jewellery companies in<br />
the digital, marketing<br />
and creative fields, and who was named by<br />
Forbes Italia earlier this year as one of the<br />
top Under-30 leaders of the future also took<br />
part in the webinar. Erik Jens, the founder and<br />
CEO of LuxuryFintech.com, which focuses on<br />
blockchain and cryptocurrencies, examined<br />
reengineering banking and finance models<br />
for the luxury industry sector, and more<br />
particularly the jewellery and art worlds.<br />
The webinar can be replayed from the CIBJO<br />
website, as can the many other <strong>Jewellery</strong><br />
Industry Voices seminars. You can stay up to<br />
date with upcoming free online events with<br />
CIBJO by signing up on their website.<br />
www.cibjo.org<br />
40<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
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According to legend and lore, the idea of a birthstone chart goes back to Biblical times and the<br />
Breastplate of Aaron, which was set with twelve gemstones. A writer in the first century postulated<br />
that these gems directly correlated with the twelve astrological signs of the Zodiac and that these<br />
stones were beneficial to the health of the wearer. While the perception of the 12-stone birthstone<br />
chart has changed over the centuries, it still implies “to each her stone.”<br />
By Cynthia Unninayar<br />
RESPLENDENT R UBIES<br />
The Birthstone of July<br />
Rubies have been admired and coveted for millennia. While its<br />
name is derived from the Latin word rubeus—meaning red—ruby<br />
was translated as ratnaraj in ancient Sanskrit, signifying the king<br />
of precious stones.<br />
And precious these red gems have been throughout history. In Asia,<br />
they were reportedly traded as early as 200 BCE along China’s North<br />
Silk Road, where they were treasured for their supposed power to<br />
convey wisdom, promote health and protect their wearer.<br />
Several centuries later in Europe, rubies became the highly prized gems<br />
of royalty, adorning royal crowns and jewellery. Rubies were also the<br />
jewels in early timepieces (and even some current watches), while<br />
today they are used to make lasers and medical instruments. And who<br />
doesn’t remember Dorothy’s Ruby Slippers from The Wizard of Oz?<br />
The popularity of ruby continues today. As the birthstone<br />
of July, the stone’s red colour aptly symbolises romance,<br />
love and passion. The stone is also often seen as a<br />
symbol of success and wealth because of its high value.<br />
In fact, rubies command higher prices per carat than all<br />
other coloured gemstones, except for some fancy colour<br />
diamonds. This is especially true of the so-called Pigeon’s<br />
Blood rubies, a type that exhibits a saturated fiery red<br />
colour. And, nowhere are these high prices more evident<br />
than at the world’s most prestigious auctions where<br />
spectacular rubies are reaching great heights.<br />
Above: The ‘Sunrise Ruby’, a<br />
25.59-ct Burmese ‘Pigeon’s<br />
Blood’ ruby set three auction<br />
records in 2015: the world’s<br />
most expensive ruby, the<br />
highest price per carat, and<br />
a record price for a Cartier<br />
jewel. It sold at Sotheby’s<br />
for US$30.3 million or nearly<br />
US$1.2 million per carat.<br />
(Photo: Sotheby’s)<br />
One of these rubies is the Graff Ruby, an 8.62-ct Burmese Pigeon’s<br />
Blood stone, which broke the record for price per carat when it was<br />
sold at Sotheby’s in 2014. The buyer was luxury jeweller Laurence<br />
Graff who paid US$8.6 million (US$997,727 per carat). Interestingly,<br />
this same stone had been purchased by Graff for half the price eight<br />
years earlier, when he renamed it the Graff Ruby before reselling it.<br />
Helen Molesworth, gem expert, historian and senior curator of the<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Collection at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London,<br />
explains: “In 2006, when Laurence Graff purchased the ruby the first<br />
time, it was in a Bulgari mount. He reset it and then sold it, but when<br />
it came up again for sale in 2014, he repurchased it.” Molesworth has<br />
personally viewed and handled many of the world’s most spectacular<br />
gemstones and jewels, including the Graff Ruby. “It is one of the most<br />
spectacular stones I have ever held,” she adds. “It was a market maker,<br />
visibly showing, in the same stone, a huge jump in<br />
value in just eight years.”<br />
More price records were set in 2015 by the 25.59-ct<br />
Burmese Sunrise Ruby, which fetched US$30.3 million<br />
at Sotheby’s, or nearly US$1.2 million per carat. “This<br />
ruby is one of the most phenomenal stones ever to be<br />
sold at auction,” adds Molesworth. “So little has come<br />
out of Myanmar in recent years that these unique<br />
stones have become truly rare and collectible.”<br />
The 15.99-ct ‘Jubilee Ruby’<br />
ring by Verdura continued the<br />
upward momentum in ruby<br />
prices at auction. It sold at<br />
Christie’s in 2016 for US$14.2<br />
million, or US$904,534 per<br />
carat. (Photo: Christie’s)<br />
The ‘Graff Ruby’, an 8.62-ct<br />
Burmese ‘Pigeon’s Blood’<br />
ruby, broke the records<br />
for overall price and price<br />
per carat in 2014. (Photo:<br />
Sotheby’s)<br />
42<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Selection of rubies from Hamid Bros.<br />
Left to right: 1.09 cts, 1.08 cts, 2.81 cts,<br />
and 2.09 cts. (Photos: Hamid Bros.)<br />
Yet, it is not only the most spectacular rubies at auction that demand<br />
attention. “Ruby is a historically significant and popular stone, and the<br />
rarity factor is quite enticing,” explains Grant Hamid, of Melbournebased<br />
Hamid Bros. “The rich and various tones of ruby are highly prized,<br />
and being the gemstone for the 40th wedding anniversary and July<br />
birthstone also add to its desirability.”<br />
Susie Robson, director of Sydney-based Sovereign Gems, agrees, noting<br />
that the red stone “has always been one of our bestsellers. We also sell<br />
a lot for ruby anniversary presents.” She adds that “the rich red<br />
colour of ruby has an innate glow thanks to the presence<br />
of chromium, and its hardness of 9 makes it a durable<br />
stone for jewellery.”<br />
“Ruby is simply one of the most beautiful of<br />
all gemstones,” concurs Brendan McCreesh<br />
of Melbourne-based OAGems. “It is widely<br />
considered it to be the best of the best in the<br />
coloured gemstone world. Australian buyers<br />
are far more attracted to the good, strong red<br />
end of the ruby spectrum, whereas most ruby<br />
production has pink tones, which is favoured in<br />
Asian markets.”<br />
Found around the world, the earliest sources of ruby<br />
date back to 2500 BCE in the Mogok region of Myanmar<br />
(Burma). Gems recovered were delivered to the Burmese ruler and<br />
became his property. The red gems are also found in other parts of the<br />
world, most notably in Mozambique, but also in smaller quantities in<br />
Australia, Madagascar, Malawi, Sri Lanka and Vietnam, among other<br />
areas. Mogok has historically produced the finest Pigeon’s Blood rubies.<br />
Selection of rubies from OAGems.<br />
Left to right: Round pair Burmese<br />
rubies, 1.34 cts; Pear-shaped 1.01-ct<br />
Mozambique ruby; Oval 1.15-ct<br />
Mozambique ruby.<br />
(Photos: OAGems)<br />
Rubies come in a range of colour tones, from<br />
deep red to more pinkish hues. Shown here<br />
is a selection of rubies from Sovereign Gems.<br />
Heart: 0.70-ct, Burmese; Pinkish oval: 1.12-<br />
ct, Mozambique; Red oval: 1.03-ct, Burmese.<br />
(Photos: Sovereign Gems)<br />
Burmese star ruby (13.5 cts) accented by black and white<br />
diamonds set in 18K gold by Switzerland-based Elke Berr.<br />
(Photo: Berr & Partners)<br />
“We have always sourced Burmese ruby for most of our ruby stock,”<br />
explains McCreesh, “however, with the political unrest in Myanmar<br />
and the effects of Covid, there has been zero ruby mining in that<br />
country for two and a half years. Premium stones are becoming scarce<br />
and prices are high. For larger stones, Mozambique currently presents<br />
more reasonable pricing than Burmese stones.” He adds that the<br />
“deep red Mozambique rubies are fast becoming familiar in the trade<br />
and the buying public.”<br />
“Provenance of any gemstone does not guarantee quality,” insists<br />
Hamid. “There has been a misconception that Myanmar supplies<br />
only the finest rubies as they have also supplied a huge number of<br />
low-quality stones. As Burma provides very few quality stones today,<br />
the desirability of the beautiful Mozambique rubies—including a<br />
percentage of unheated stones—has gained momentum as they have<br />
achieved greater recognition.”<br />
Whether rubies come from Myanmar or Mozambique or any other<br />
location around the world, whether their colours are Pigeon’s Blood<br />
red or tend towards more pinkish shades, their popularity continues<br />
to rise. Beautiful and unique, rubies are indeed resplendent in all their<br />
glory as the birthstone for July. ■<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 43
LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS<br />
Craig Miller<br />
CEO, JC Jewels<br />
www.jcjewels.com.au<br />
FROM CURIOSITIES<br />
TO ESSENTIALS<br />
The lab-grown category is constantly developing, at a rate faster than most may think. What does<br />
this mean to your business and what does this mean for your customers?<br />
The diamond industry has been dominated<br />
by the mining giants for decades. Lab-grown<br />
diamonds arrived on the scene only recently<br />
with very strong appeal to 20-35 year-old<br />
consumers, a generation less connected to<br />
the vintage slogan ''a diamond is forever''.<br />
This new generation brings with it different<br />
priorities and value propositions. Their focus<br />
is more across sustainability, climate change,<br />
conflict free diamonds and more. Is this new<br />
choice of diamond the perfect fit for the next<br />
generation? Is this going to create the perfect<br />
storm for mined goods? And how will that<br />
impact your mined diamond business in time<br />
to come? Perhaps you might chose to stay out<br />
of the lab-grown field all together, but if you're<br />
on the fence or ready to jump in, how you<br />
plan around this now will defiantly affect your<br />
business going forward.<br />
One year ago, I asked readers Are you selling<br />
lab-grown diamonds? This year I can<br />
ask How many are you selling<br />
each week?<br />
Who could have imagined the<br />
natural diamond business<br />
being disrupted in this<br />
way? Being a first mover in<br />
the LGD market and having<br />
a large footprint in the wholesale space from<br />
day one, I find myself perfectly positioned to<br />
watch the growth. JC Jewels data is in real<br />
time and looking across both natural and labgrown<br />
diamonds, lab-grown is gaining ground<br />
at an astronomical pace.<br />
Some retailers have been natural all the way<br />
and are choosing not to give in to the labgrown<br />
'trend'. Others have embraced LGDs as<br />
another product the consumer is looking to<br />
purchase. I would like to ask readers, have you<br />
engaged this new norm, are you seeing the<br />
benefits of this new choice of diamond and if<br />
you are not participating in this new consumer<br />
choice of diamond what are you doing to<br />
promote and elevate your natural diamond<br />
offering?<br />
America has placed sanctions on Russian<br />
diamonds, in support of Ukraine. With<br />
Russia producing around 30 per<br />
cent of global mined diamonds,<br />
this brings with it global the<br />
possibilities of shortages in<br />
mined diamonds, especially<br />
in smalls and melee goods. In<br />
addition to this, some are looking at<br />
Russian diamonds as potentially being<br />
conflict diamonds due to Alrosa being 30<br />
per cent owned by the Russian government.<br />
This gives some consumers more reasons to<br />
turn to lab-grown.<br />
Companies like WD Lab Grown Diamonds in<br />
America grow their goods in America with<br />
full chain of custody, Sustainability, Climate<br />
Neutrality, As Grown certification and more.<br />
WD Lab Grown could not be positioned better<br />
and report seeing astronomical growth as new<br />
consumers enjoy the story and newness that<br />
comes with lab-grown.<br />
So I ask everyone in retail to consider where<br />
it's all heading. Think carefully about how<br />
much emphasis you should be placing on this<br />
new norm and what your offerings present for<br />
today, tomorrow and the future consumer.<br />
44<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
JC Jewels Pty LTD adheres to following quality assurance principles consistent with the SCS<br />
SCS-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard Series -<br />
Sustainability Rated Diamond (Standard for Trial Use)<br />
Accredited Wholesaler<br />
AWARDED TO<br />
JC Jewels Pty LTD<br />
Stanley Mathuram, PE,<br />
Executive Vice President<br />
SCS Global Services<br />
2000 Powell Street, Suite 600<br />
Emeryville, CA 94608 USA<br />
-007 Jewelry Sustainability Standard – Sustainability Rated Diamond.<br />
• Confirms that claims made in connection with the SCS-007 Standard pertain only to<br />
Certified Diamonds.<br />
• Accurately and fully represents a Certified Diamond’s source, physical characteristics and<br />
other attributes.<br />
• Uses only approved certification marks, program trademarks and descriptions.<br />
• Does not make untruthful, misleading or deceptive representation with respect to Certified<br />
Diamonds.<br />
• Does not represent a non-certified diamond as Certified.<br />
• Provides transparency around Certified Diamonds as to whether they are: rough or cut;<br />
composite; reconstructed; laboratory grown or natural.<br />
Issuance Date: 9/24/2021<br />
Accreditation Expiration: 9/23/<strong>2022</strong><br />
Accreditation Number: SCS-007-10020-WS
EMERALDS AND DIAMONDS<br />
IN DUBAI<br />
This May, <strong>Jewellery</strong> <strong>World</strong> magazine attended the International Colombian Emerald<br />
Conference at the DMCC in Dubai which discussed market trends and the future of emerald<br />
certification. We caught up with London DE, a British company that presented at the<br />
conference and which trades in Colombian emeralds and natural coloured diamonds.<br />
Based in London’s Hatton Garden,<br />
London DE is the UK’s leading supplier<br />
of certified diamonds, emeralds, rubies,<br />
sapphires and other coloured gemstones. The<br />
company only deals in ethically sourced gems,<br />
and supplies loose stones and creates bespoke<br />
jewellery utilising local businesses in order to<br />
maintain a low carbon footprint and support<br />
the local community.<br />
Please tell us the story and aims of<br />
the London DE company, why it<br />
was formed and where you hope<br />
the journey will take you?<br />
Philip Spencer founded London DE in<br />
2013 with a desire to build an ethical and<br />
sustainable business revolving around his<br />
love for gemstones and jewellery. Since then,<br />
his team has expanded significantly both<br />
internationally<br />
and in terms<br />
of third-party<br />
delivery partners.<br />
In 2020, we<br />
opened our<br />
Colombian<br />
subsidiary, London<br />
DE SAS, in the heart of the emerald district of<br />
Bogota to ensure we’re buying our stones and<br />
materials from the top of the supply chain and<br />
that we know exactly where our materials are<br />
sourced from. This provides transparency of<br />
our mine-to-market chain and cuts out any<br />
middlemen.<br />
In January <strong>2022</strong>,<br />
we opened<br />
our DMCC<br />
(Dubai Multi-<br />
Commodities<br />
Centre) office in<br />
the United Arab<br />
Emirates, giving<br />
us direct access and insight into one of the<br />
fastest growing luxury retail markets in the<br />
world. We hope to become a renown trader in<br />
Colombian emeralds<br />
and luxury fine<br />
jewellery, providing<br />
exquisite pieces for<br />
close to trade value;<br />
both ethically and<br />
responsibly, always.<br />
Since the founding<br />
of the company,<br />
Phil has strived<br />
for a clean and<br />
responsible<br />
business. He<br />
ensures all of our<br />
stones are supplied<br />
from trustworthy<br />
sources, high up in<br />
the supply chain,<br />
which are within<br />
our small circle<br />
of handpicked<br />
suppliers.<br />
Throughout the<br />
whole pipeline, Phil<br />
inspects the working<br />
environments to ensure every employer who<br />
works under us is being paid and treated<br />
fairly, along with the correct health and safety<br />
standards. He ensures we give back to the<br />
communities which we work in or alongside,<br />
and only picks the finest stones to include in<br />
our collections of jewellery which we can trace<br />
directly back to source. Where possible we<br />
remain environmentally conscious by using<br />
a paper-less office and keeping our carbon<br />
footprint to a minimum.<br />
46<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
How important is traceability and sustainability in<br />
your business model?<br />
Traceability and sustainability is at the heart of all we do. Due to our lean<br />
business model, our Colombian emeralds can be traced back directly<br />
to their source. We visit the mines we source from yearly to check on<br />
our miners, as well as our suppliers who work directly with these mines<br />
and its owners. From here we source our stones which we pass through<br />
CDTEC gemmological laboratories to be certified, and then those stones<br />
are set into our jewellery. A clean and lean supply chain.<br />
Not all jewellery and<br />
gemstone traders go<br />
to physically see the<br />
mines they are sourcing<br />
from. Here at LDE we<br />
think it’s important<br />
that we understand<br />
the heritage and<br />
environments of where<br />
our stones come from,<br />
get to know the miners<br />
and their families,<br />
see Colombia and its<br />
beauty for what it<br />
really is.<br />
We work with one of the only government regulated Colombian Emerald<br />
mines in Muzo and within the country, alongside the only government<br />
regulated gemmological laboratory in Colombia; this means that we can<br />
100 per cent guarantee the authenticity of our stones and their origin,<br />
providing transparent sourcing and proof of its responsible extraction.<br />
Colombian emeralds can be difficult to pinpoint – they’re not readily<br />
available within the market unlike other gemstones and when they are it<br />
isn’t very clear as to where they have come from or how they have been<br />
extracted. LDE chooses<br />
the finest stones which<br />
come direct from our<br />
mines, those which<br />
have no oil or minor oil,<br />
with the most vibrant of<br />
colours. We also stock<br />
trapiche emeralds, a<br />
rarity on the market<br />
which can be difficult<br />
to come by within fine<br />
jewellery, found only<br />
within the Colombian<br />
mines. We strive for<br />
transparency with our<br />
customers and business partners, ensuring that our stones are those<br />
which have a short supply chain and certified within Colombia itself. It’s a<br />
unique business model that we believe is important within the industry.<br />
Pandora plans<br />
new factory in<br />
Vietnam<br />
Global jewellery giant Pandora has announced its plans to<br />
open its third manufacturing site, this time in Vietnam. The<br />
$100 million facility will the first of the company’s jewellery<br />
plants outside of Thailand.<br />
Pandora announced that the move will create jobs of more<br />
than 6,000 craftspeople and have an annual capacity of 60<br />
million pieces of jewellery.<br />
The factory will be located in Binh Duong Province, near<br />
Ho Chi Minh City. Construction is set to begin in early 2023<br />
and production is due to start by the end of 2024. It will be<br />
built according to the LEED Gold standard, a green building<br />
certification, and be powered by 100 per cent renewable<br />
energy.<br />
Pandora will also expand its current site in Lamphun,<br />
Thailand, bringing the total investment to $160 million over<br />
the next four years. This will allow Pandora to grow its total<br />
crafting capacity by around 60 percent “and support the<br />
company’s long-term growth ambitions,” according to a<br />
press release.<br />
“By diversifying<br />
its geographical<br />
footprint,<br />
Pandora will<br />
also become<br />
more resilient to<br />
potential supply<br />
disruptions,” the<br />
company stated.<br />
In 2021,<br />
Pandora sold<br />
102 million<br />
pieces of<br />
jewellery, hand-finished at the company’s two crafting<br />
facilities in Thailand. Both facilities operate on 100 per cent<br />
renewable energy and are on track to use only recycled silver<br />
and gold by 2025, according to the release.<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 47
NEW PRODUCTS<br />
Bianc | +61 413 872 810<br />
The Lumière Collection by Bianc.<br />
Handcrafted and finished with exquisite Labradorite, Green Onyx<br />
and freshwater pearls, you are sure to find something to love.<br />
These stunning pieces range from RRP$169-$199.<br />
info@bianc.com.au<br />
@bianc_jewellery<br />
www.bianc.com.au<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre | +61 7 3221 3838<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> Centre’s new range of huggies in sterling silver / gold plate<br />
- JTH335 – Plain polished, 10mm inside diameter with 1.5mm tube<br />
- JTH560 – Double cut-out tube, 9mm inside diameter with 6mm tube<br />
- JTH564 – Two-tone, 9.5mm inside diameter with 2.0mm tube<br />
- JTH937CZ – Elongated with CZ, 5.5mm inside diameter with 3mm tube<br />
Visit our website for other latest arrivals.<br />
www.jewellerycentreaustralia.com<br />
Stones and Silver | +61 3 9587 1215<br />
.925 sterling silver birthstone necklaces featuring Preciosa<br />
Crystals. Purchase as a set or individually they can also be<br />
engraved for that personal touch.<br />
stonesandsilver.com.au<br />
Worth & Douglas | +64 9 303 4666<br />
New natural ruby designs in time for the birthstone of July.<br />
The featured new designs include a 9ct yellow gold ruby signet<br />
ring, 9ct yellow gold tear drop ruby and diamond pendant, and<br />
a new ruby and diamond ring available in 9ct or 18ct<br />
worthdouglas.com<br />
@wdrings<br />
@ziro_wd<br />
48<br />
jewellery world - <strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong>
Zahar | +61 413 872 810<br />
Featuring a wide range of new statement and dainty pieces, this<br />
collection can be made both formal and fun!<br />
The collection ranges from RRP$59-$149. Everything is available<br />
now and ready for order<br />
info@zahar.com.au<br />
@zahar.collection<br />
www.zahar.com.au<br />
Luna Rae<br />
Luna Rae is an Australian designed brand crafted from solid<br />
gold and features ethically sourced diamonds.<br />
New items have dropped showcasing Australian Opals and<br />
Eternity pieces.<br />
www.lunarae.com.au<br />
Ellani Collections | +61 2 9899 1525<br />
Another beautiful addition from the new Ellani Collections<br />
AW22 release.<br />
www.ellanicollections.com.au<br />
Ellendale Diamonds Australia | Desert Rose<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> | +61 8 6180 1562<br />
Be seduced by the charms of this delightful solitaire ring in 18K<br />
white/rose gold. Featuring a round diamond D SI1 0.50ct and<br />
6 round Argyle pink diamonds 6/7PP SIAV 0.087ct. 16 tapering<br />
round diamonds G+ SI 0.21 ct.<br />
www.ellendalediamonds.com.au<br />
<strong>June</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 49
chain<br />
PO Box 112<br />
Toronto NSW 2283<br />
P: 02 9380 4742 ∙ F: 02 8580 6168<br />
E: sales@adelaimports.com<br />
Adela Imports offer over 180<br />
designs of sterling silver chain,<br />
with up to 20 lengths available<br />
in each from stock.<br />
Also offering a range of<br />
uniquely designed silver<br />
jewellery.<br />
Catalogue available.<br />
www.adelaimports.com<br />
services<br />
diamonds and coloured stones<br />
for sale<br />
AUSTRALIAN<br />
JEWELLERY TOOLS<br />
WHOLESALER<br />
SPECIALISING IN QUALITY<br />
JEWELLERY TOOLS & EQUIPMENT<br />
WITH EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE<br />
(07) 3876 7481<br />
sales@labanda.com.au<br />
FAX: (07) 3368 3100<br />
ADELAIDE (08) 7221 2202<br />
MELBOURNE (03) 9038 8545<br />
PERTH (08) 6363 5517<br />
SYDNEY (02) 8004 1626<br />
www.labanda.com.au<br />
Fantastic Sea Change Opportunity<br />
<strong>Jewellery</strong> and Giftware Business in Nelson Bay, NSW<br />
Established 21 years ago in coastal area of Port Stephens.<br />
Only 2.5 hours drive north of Sydney. Only one other manufacturing competitor.<br />
Swim software for POS and Stock management, including price tickets. Retail has large<br />
Chubb safe and alarm systems in both locations. Great retail location in Main Street and<br />
workshop located separately 85 meters away in arcade.<br />
Low rent $42K annual for both shops. Both leases negotiable. Large marketable client list.<br />
W.I.W.O $450,000 ONO [Current stock $178K at cost ($501K retail), fittings and equipment<br />
$61K]. Workshop includes display windows, 2 x work benches, Ratner safe and office<br />
fittings only, not tools. Take without stock at $275,000.<br />
Contact Roger 0414 821 931<br />
Glues<br />
services<br />
Chris O’Neill<br />
Piecemaker<br />
2015 YJG Bench Challenge<br />
Hand Engraving Champion.<br />
Also specialising in quality<br />
Handmakes, Repairs and<br />
Antique restorations in the<br />
Sydney CBD.<br />
0405 689 834<br />
MILN & CO. Pty Ltd<br />
Ph: 02 4655 7707 M: 0412 702 834<br />
E:stuart.miln@milnco.com.au<br />
Lancier Watch Bands - Leather, metal, sports.<br />
Watchglasses. Seals. Batteries. Quartz Movements.<br />
Pins/tools. <strong>Jewellery</strong> findings. J C Hurst Bangles.<br />
Fischer Barometers and Tide Clocks<br />
for sale<br />
Retail <strong>Jewellery</strong> Business for Sale<br />
Established 35 years ago in<br />
busy Gold Coast street location.<br />
Includes retail fit out, fully<br />
equipped jewellery, valuation and<br />
watchmaking workshops. Would<br />
suit a manufacturing jeweller<br />
specialising in design and makes<br />
and/or watchmaker.<br />
Owners seeking to retire<br />
$75,000 plus stock at cost.<br />
Contact Norm on 0450 903 325.<br />
Relaxing ...<br />
Unwanted Bulldozer - selling for scrap<br />
Negotiable<br />
Canberra, ACT<br />
Business<br />
For Sale<br />
Showcase Jewellers<br />
- Camperdown<br />
A fine jewellery and<br />
giftware store that has been<br />
operating successfully for<br />
70 years with solid six-figure<br />
returns. Proudly associated<br />
with Showcase Jewellers, a<br />
premier buying group with<br />
around 250 stores, allowing<br />
the business to access the<br />
best diamonds and jewellery<br />
from around the world, at<br />
locally competitive prices.<br />
$300,000<br />
Secrets Shhh –<br />
Melbourne CBD<br />
A rare opportunity to buy<br />
into this exclusive growing<br />
national retailer, located in<br />
the prestigious Royal Arcade<br />
run under management.<br />
The best thing about this<br />
franchise business is that<br />
you don’t need to be a<br />
jeweller, and all items are<br />
sourced centrally and<br />
delivered, then the team of<br />
staff help customers choose<br />
what they love.<br />
$200,000<br />
GEELONG & SW VICTORIA<br />
(03) 5259 9970<br />
GREATER MELBOURNE<br />
(03) 9372 0243<br />
MORNINGTON PENINSULA<br />
(03) 5986 3348
Calling all Suppliers<br />
Calling all Suppliers<br />
Calling all Suppliers
SPECIALISING IN ITALIAN MADE<br />
TENNIS MOUNTS AND GOLD CHAINS