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NZPhotographer Issue 55, May 2022

As of December 2022, NZPhotographer magazine is only available when you purchase an annual or monthly subscription via the NZP website. Find out more: www.nzphotographer.nz

As of December 2022, NZPhotographer magazine is only available when you purchase an annual or monthly subscription via the NZP website. Find out more: www.nzphotographer.nz

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Chicago by Fairlie Atkinson<br />

my shot. We lowered the stage lights and popped on<br />

some red spotlights. I didn’t want a lot of noise in my<br />

image and knew I would need a high ISO and low f<br />

stop, and slow shutter speed in the low light, but I chose<br />

to shoot on 100 shutter speed, f4.5 and the ISO on 6400<br />

and increased the contrast later in-post.<br />

I essentially used the shadow to frame the image - note<br />

an even amount of shadow on the top and bottom of<br />

the image and two partial shadows of performers on<br />

the side. The shadow from the scaffolding created the<br />

shadow at the bottom, and the strip holding the lights<br />

at the top provided an equal amount of shadow. I did<br />

not see this until I looked through my camera viewfinder.<br />

Looking through the lens and moving it around allowed<br />

me to find a frame for my subjects that I had not seen<br />

just by sitting in the theatre and looking around.<br />

Have you seen people making a rectangle with both<br />

of their thumbs and forefingers and peering through<br />

it? It’s the same concept when you sweep the scene<br />

with your eye looking through the viewfinder. You’re<br />

looking for something to frame your subject. And that<br />

is the essence of framing an image. You’re looking<br />

to emphasise your subject, add depth to your image<br />

and create those nice lines and curves in your photo.<br />

Work on improving your framing this month by trying<br />

the following:<br />

• Get someone to create a frame with their fingers<br />

and shoot your subject through their fingers. Try<br />

to keep not only the fingers in focus but also the<br />

subject.<br />

• Have a look at Friedlander’s work. See if you can<br />

achieve a mirror or window shot where everything<br />

is in sharp focus and then another one where just<br />

the image in the mirror is in focus.<br />

• Get out and about and try and take an image<br />

where something natural like foliage or branches is<br />

providing a frame. Have a look at Ansel Adams’s<br />

work for inspiration.<br />

• Have a go at shooting a subject through a door<br />

frame, window, or through the bars on a fence,<br />

building, or bridge. See Yasuhiro Ishimoto for<br />

inspiration.<br />

Remember, photography is not just about the<br />

technical aspects like ISO, aperture, and shutter<br />

speed. Neither does it need to be governed by your<br />

equipment. You can take a really nice image if the<br />

framing is good.<br />

40 <strong>May</strong> <strong>2022</strong> <strong>NZPhotographer</strong>

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