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DRIFT Travel Spring 2022

Visit the exclusive Les Bordes Golf Club in France’s Loire Valley, cycle in New Zealand, enjoy Afternoon Tea at some of the finest hotels around the world and check out the strange, yet wonderful site in Nevada. All this and more in the new issue of DRIFT Travel Magazine. Come along on the journey - no passport required.

Visit the exclusive Les Bordes Golf Club in France’s Loire Valley, cycle in New Zealand, enjoy Afternoon Tea at some of the finest hotels around the world and check out the strange, yet wonderful site in Nevada. All this and more in the new issue of DRIFT Travel Magazine. Come along on the journey - no passport required.

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL<br />

TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

GOLF IN FRANCE’S LOIRE VALLEY<br />

OLD MEETS NEW IN AUTHENTIC FRENCH STYLE<br />

WHERE TO NEXT?<br />

inside this issue | 14 countries & 38 must visit destinations<br />

SPRING <strong>2022</strong><br />

COME ALONG ON THE JOURNEY


<strong>DRIFT</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Magazine<br />

is available on<br />

PressReader<br />

2 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 1<br />

US_TM_0807_0118_AD - <strong>DRIFT</strong> Magazine Full Page Print Ad - January.indd 1<br />

1/17/18 2:26 PM


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© COPYRIGHT <strong>DRIFT</strong> TRAVEL MAGAZINE<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 3


14 Les Bordes<br />

Golfing in France<br />

A picturesque old course with rolling<br />

fairways and a challenging par 72<br />

new course are just two of the special<br />

offerings that await the avid golfer at<br />

Les Bordes in the Loire Valley.<br />

22<br />

60<br />

32<br />

columns<br />

6 <strong>Travel</strong> Bites<br />

28 <strong>Travel</strong> Gear<br />

46 Hotel Spotlight<br />

72 #WheretoNext<br />

54<br />

48<br />

4 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


22 Hawaiian Dreams<br />

BY MATTHEW SCHUELLER<br />

Hawaii is rooted in community, and its<br />

welcoming spirit embraces every traveler.<br />

32 Beautiful Belgium<br />

BY SHELLEY COAR<br />

A scenic photographic journey through<br />

Belgium’s cities and countryside.<br />

48 Afternoon Tea Around The World<br />

BY JUNE DAGNALL<br />

A look at the ten best places to<br />

experience afternoon tea on the planet.<br />

54 New Zealand on Two Wheels<br />

BY ANDREW MARSHALL<br />

Cycling from the North Island to the<br />

South Island’s spectacular glaciers.<br />

Contents<br />

60 Nevada’s Weird Wonders<br />

BY TRACIE BARNTHOUSE<br />

It begins with alien research and<br />

gets weirder by the desert mile.<br />

66 America’s Great State Parks<br />

BY MARGARET MURRAY<br />

A sneak peek at a few of the 10,000 state<br />

parks that span 18 million acres across the USA.<br />

66<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 5


On the cigar and<br />

cocktail trail in<br />

Old Havana<br />

BY: ANDREW MARSHALL<br />

A man’s voice crackles over an antiquated loud speaker system as he<br />

reads a chapter from a García Màrquez novel, the words filling the<br />

vast room where dozens of men and women listen. With heads bowed<br />

over wooden workbenches and with their hands methodically rolling,<br />

chopping and tucking, they create Cuba’s most famous product.<br />

6 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


I<br />

am lucky enough to be one of<br />

the last people to take a cigar<br />

factory tour at the original<br />

Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás<br />

(Partagás Cigar Factory) in Old<br />

Havana (Calle Industria No.520)<br />

behind the Capitolio Nacional<br />

building, before it moved to its new<br />

location on the corner of Calle San<br />

Carlos in Central Havana. One of<br />

Havana's oldest and most famous<br />

cigar factories, the landmark Real<br />

Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás had<br />

been making cigars here since 1845.<br />

For a cigar aficionado like myself,<br />

this is 'the pilgrimage' for it is here<br />

that some of the world's finest<br />

cigars are handcrafted, from the<br />

powerfully rich Cohiba Robusto to<br />

the magnificent Partagás Double<br />

Corona.<br />

Whatever your views are about<br />

smoking, it's a fascinating cultural<br />

insight to take a cigar factory tour.<br />

Being Cuba, factory tours can be<br />

ad hoc. Tours take around one<br />

hour, and cover the various stages<br />

of cigar production. Starting in<br />

the selection room, where sorters<br />

grade the various tobacco leaves<br />

and ending in a tiny room where<br />

the finished cigars are packed into<br />

cedar boxes, which are pasted<br />

with their official green and white<br />

seals to confirm authenticity.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 7


But it's in the rolling rooms, the<br />

galeras, the very heart and soul<br />

of the cigar-making process that<br />

I am able to fully appreciate the<br />

craftsmanship that has been handed<br />

down through generations of cigar<br />

rollers. The pungent aroma of rich<br />

tobacco leaf mingles with cigar<br />

smoke as several rollers enjoy the<br />

fruits of their labor while they work.<br />

Rolling is a prestigious job, and only<br />

the skilled get to roll famous cigar<br />

types like the Cohiba Esplendido<br />

and Montecristo No.2. Using only<br />

a metal knife, a wooden board, a<br />

small guillotine and a bit of vegetable<br />

gum, most rollers make around<br />

100 to 150 cigars a day. But I have<br />

to say; I’m a little disappointed<br />

not to witness any Cuban women<br />

rolling them on their thighs.<br />

In the next room, Roberto Gomez's<br />

job is to inspect the gauge size<br />

and uniformity of the finished<br />

product. The quality control is<br />

thorough, and he carefully places<br />

to one side any cigars that don't<br />

make the grade. "I've been doing<br />

this job for nearly forty years now,<br />

and reckon I can tell a good cigar<br />

from a bad one,” he says taking a<br />

deep puff on a Bolivar Belicoso.<br />

If a Partagás factory tour is the<br />

pilgrimage, then the Holy Grail is<br />

the Havana cigar itself, smoked in<br />

any of the city’s time-honored cafés<br />

or bars. Before leaving the factory<br />

it’s almost mandatory to visit the<br />

cigar shop on the ground floor to<br />

select a cigar (or a box of cigars),<br />

which confusingly is still housed in<br />

the factory's old location. Naturally,<br />

it sells some of Havana's best<br />

smokes, including the deep, earthy<br />

Partagás brand, and you needn’t<br />

go any further than the adjoining<br />

La Casa del Habano bar to smoke<br />

it. The faces of various Hollywood<br />

celebrities that have enjoyed the<br />

8 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


combination of a fine cigar with a<br />

Cuban cocktail in this atmospheric<br />

saloon, smile up from their<br />

autographed photos in an album<br />

on the bar top. This is definitely<br />

the place where you wouldn’t be<br />

surprised if you bumped into the<br />

likes of Jack Nicholson or Arnold<br />

Schwarzenegger enjoying a fat cigar<br />

or two. A block or so away from the<br />

rebranded 'Modern Partagás Cigar<br />

Factory' (where factory tours are<br />

available) is the Romeo y Julieta<br />

Factory (which also offers tours and<br />

produces several sizes of handcrafted<br />

Cohiba, Montecristos, H. Upmanns<br />

and of course, Romeo y Julietas.<br />

It's early evening and lighting up<br />

one of my favorite cigars, a superbly<br />

spicy Montecristo No.2, I hit the<br />

streets and stroll past the grand<br />

Capitolio Nacional inspired by the<br />

US Capitol building in Washington<br />

D.C and hang a right into the back<br />

streets of Old Havana. Despite<br />

decades of economic decline, the<br />

old magic of Havana shines through<br />

like a scratchy, crackling scene from<br />

a 1950s Cary Grant movie. It was<br />

this very magic that attracted people<br />

like authors Ernest Hemingway and<br />

Graham Greene, most of Hollywood,<br />

the Windsors and the Churchills.<br />

Smoking my cigar, I'm easy prey for<br />

the black market street peddlers who<br />

zero in. "Hey my friend, where are<br />

you from? You want good cigars? I<br />

have Montecristos for a good price?"<br />

"Sorry, I already have some," I reply,<br />

having bought a genuine box of<br />

cigars earlier, and escape through the<br />

doors of El Floridita, to imbibe the<br />

bar's infamous cocktail, the daiquiri.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 9


In addition to cigars, Havana has<br />

long been famous for its cocktails,<br />

and while El Floridita didn't invent<br />

the daiquiri, it certainly reinvented<br />

it by introducing an electric iceblender<br />

into the equation in the<br />

1920s. Served up by red-jacketed<br />

barmen who make a great show with<br />

their cocktail shakers, these frosty<br />

dreams of rum, lemon juice, sugar,<br />

maraschino and crushed ice are just<br />

the thing to combat the heat outside.<br />

Ernest Hemingway spent over 20<br />

years living in Cuba and many<br />

an hour sipping daiquiris and<br />

smoking cigars in this hallowed<br />

haunt. Another Cuban cocktail<br />

is the mojito (rum, lemon juice,<br />

sugar, soda, mint leaf and ice<br />

cubes, stirred) made famous by<br />

the Nobel prize-winning novelist<br />

when he penned 'my daiquiri in<br />

the Floridita and my mojito in the<br />

Bodeguita' on one of the walls of the<br />

La Bodeguita del Medio bar. Since<br />

Hemingway's time, a visit to this<br />

funky bar has become de rigueur,<br />

and other notables such as Nat<br />

King Cole and Fidel Castro have<br />

left their autographs on the wall.<br />

The streets of Communist Havana<br />

are living testimony to tough times.<br />

To say that time seems to have<br />

stopped ticking somewhere back in<br />

the 1950s is to state the obvious. An<br />

ancient Oldsmobile rumbles down<br />

Calle Obispo, Old Havana's main<br />

thoroughfare, as I head for the La<br />

Bodeguita, nearly pinning me against<br />

the crumbling walls of a building as<br />

its hulk practically fills the narrow<br />

street. When I arrive, the place is<br />

crammed with hordes of tourists all<br />

drinking mojitos, so I decide to visit<br />

the nearby La Lluvia de Oro instead.<br />

Besides, the mojitos here are half<br />

the price and go down well with the<br />

sizzling salsa beat of a live band.<br />

10 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


In my boutique hotel suite tucked<br />

away in one of the residential<br />

streets, I'm surrounded by the<br />

hum of Havana life. I wake every<br />

morning to roosters crowing and<br />

mothers getting children off to<br />

school and fall asleep each evening<br />

to the sound of a dozen different<br />

television sets floating in through<br />

my open balcony windows.<br />

The following day I’m back exploring<br />

the streets of Old Havana. In<br />

addition to walking, another great<br />

way to see the sights is to jump in<br />

the back of one the cities’ colorful<br />

three-wheeled taxi cycles. “How’s<br />

your stay in Havana so far,” Gustavo<br />

my cigar-puffing driver asks me,<br />

as we head off past the grand steps<br />

of the Capitolio Nacional with its<br />

dominating dome that cost USD<br />

$17 million to build in 1926, then<br />

throw a left into the back streets of<br />

Old Havana. At the speed of peddle<br />

power, we pass by the popular<br />

lunchtime haunt of Café de Paris<br />

and the cool neo-deco atmosphere<br />

of Café Del Oriente, just two other<br />

great venues to pursue the hedonistic<br />

delights of sampling various cocktails<br />

while savoring on the palate the<br />

rich coffee-laden, spicy overtones<br />

of a hand-rolled Cuban cigar...<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 11


CUBAN CIGARS – Tasting Tips and Etiquette<br />

Select: When choosing a cigar the<br />

wrapper can offer the first clue.<br />

Lighter wrappers generally indicate<br />

a milder flavor with darker wrappers<br />

offering a more full-bodied smoke.<br />

When squeezed, a cigar should give<br />

slightly and then when released,<br />

spring back into its original shape<br />

without the wrapper leaf cracking<br />

As a general rule, milder cigars are<br />

more suited to earlier in the day,<br />

while the full- bodied choice is best<br />

saved to finish off a good meal or to<br />

pair with a dark rum for example.<br />

A good cross-section of fullbodied<br />

Havanas include the<br />

Cohiba Esplendido or Robusto,<br />

a Partagás Lusitania Double<br />

Corona, the Montecristo No.2,<br />

Romeo y Julieta Belicoso, Bolivar<br />

Royal Corona, an H. Upmann<br />

Monarch, a Punch Double Corona,<br />

a Romeo y Julieta Exhibicion No.<br />

2 or the powerful Exhibicion No.<br />

4. Before cutting and lighting,<br />

survey the wrapper for consistent<br />

color, smoothness, and sheen<br />

and savor the scent of the cigar.<br />

Cut: Some cigar smokers swear<br />

by using one’s teeth, but it’s best<br />

to use a proper cigar cutter for<br />

the job. A good rule of thumb is<br />

to cut about 3mm from the head<br />

of the cigar. This is sufficient to<br />

give a good draw, without the<br />

risk of loosening the wrapper.<br />

Light: Using a good quality butane<br />

lighter hold the cigar just above<br />

the flame (do not let the flame<br />

touch the cigar) at a 45-degree<br />

angle so that the heat, not the<br />

flame, causes combustion and the<br />

outer ring of the cigar is evenly lit.<br />

Rotate the cigar through the first<br />

few puffs to assure an even burn.<br />

Listen to the faint crackle as you<br />

light your cigar, the soft exhalation<br />

as you release the smoke...these<br />

are the sounds of satisfaction.<br />

Savor: Roll the smoke around your<br />

mouth and enjoy the rich bouquet<br />

of varied flavors. A long solid<br />

cylinder of white ash indicates a<br />

good soil and more taste. Don’t be<br />

tempted to tap the ash, just let it<br />

fall off naturally in the ashtray. As<br />

the cigar burns down its length, the<br />

tastes and aroma will change, most<br />

likely becoming more pronounced.<br />

12 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


CUBAN COCKTAILS<br />

This tropical country seems to have<br />

cornered the market it cocktails.<br />

Here's a little history behind some<br />

of the delights you can order:<br />

Cuba Libre<br />

This rum and coke blend was created<br />

during the Spanish-American<br />

War. This cocktail is quite clearly<br />

a nod to the home team as Cuba<br />

Libre is Spanish for free Cuba.<br />

Mojito<br />

The origins of the mojito have been<br />

linked back to a 16th-century drink<br />

named after Sir Francis Drake. The<br />

lime juice and rum mix was said to<br />

help combat scurvy and dysentery.<br />

Daiquiri<br />

Supposedly invented by a US<br />

mining engineer who was in Cuba<br />

during the Spanish-American<br />

war. This rum, citrus and sugar<br />

mix could be named after a<br />

beach or a local iron mine.<br />

Canchanchara<br />

This is the drink that the daiquiri<br />

is believed to have derived from.<br />

The rustic lime, honey and rum<br />

beverage is believed to be created<br />

by early freedom fighters.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 13


Golf <strong>Travel</strong> to France<br />

BY: STEVE DRAKE<br />

Tucked away in the French woodlands of the Loire Valley, you'll find the<br />

exceptional Les Bordes Golf Club. Originally established by Baron Marcel<br />

Bich, a French entrepreneur and inventor who was also the founder of BIC,<br />

the company that brought us the iconic x`pens and lighters.<br />

Opened in 1987, the club is known for high end amenities and its prestigious<br />

private membership.<br />

14 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


Widely considered to be Von<br />

Hagge’s greatest masterpiece,<br />

the Old Course has been<br />

consistently ranked amongst<br />

the top three courses in<br />

Europe over the past 30 years.<br />

The Old Course<br />

I<br />

t has been said that when the great Texan Robert von Hagge designed<br />

this course, his intent was to throughly mess with even the best who<br />

comes to challenge his creation. I could not agree more.<br />

As you begin to walk the course, you might say there is a bit of an American<br />

feel, but a quick look around and there is no doubt that you are in France.<br />

Large balls of mistletoe growing high in the trees, a 600-year old abandoned<br />

monastery, and every once and awhile a mighty stag will march across your<br />

path, as if he is the keeper of this enchanted forest. Yes, this is France.<br />

With gently rolling fairways, this<br />

par 72 Old Course is lush and well<br />

established, so be watchful of where<br />

you place (or should I say misplace)<br />

your tee shot. A miss here will leave<br />

you with a difficult second shot.<br />

Most of the greens are well protected<br />

with water and there is sand<br />

everywhere.<br />

As you approach the 6th green<br />

there is an old cross just beyond the<br />

bunker that runs along the right<br />

side. Like a beacon of hope for those<br />

whose shots have gone astray. The<br />

perfect spot for a quick prayer...<br />

you’ll likely need it.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 15


...but it’s the New Course that<br />

everyone is talking about<br />

The Les Bordes New Course is<br />

an amazing par 72 that wanders<br />

through the Loire countryside.<br />

Designed by golf course architect<br />

Gil Hanse, this is a course you will<br />

love or hate, and even if you hate it...<br />

you’ll love playing it.<br />

Just a few short months<br />

after the New Course<br />

opened, it was included<br />

in GOLF Magazine’s<br />

Top 100 Courses in the<br />

World 2021-<strong>2022</strong>.<br />

Standing on the first tee, you will feel<br />

a sense of calm. The fairway ahead<br />

looks wide and receptive and looks<br />

like an easy opening hole. Right, not<br />

so easy after all. From here on out,<br />

this is what you will discover hole<br />

after hole. Most of the fairways offer<br />

a well defined bailout areas, hit it<br />

here and you’ll pay the price when it<br />

comes to your next shot. So firsttime<br />

players beware.<br />

16 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


The New Course is vastly different<br />

from the Old Course. More wild and<br />

a little more daring. The greens are<br />

well bunkered, yet receptive to a well<br />

placed approach shot. Peninsulas of<br />

heather and broom are strategically<br />

placed along the fairways, with<br />

several holes featuring forced carries<br />

over water or sand, all to challenge<br />

even the most experienced golfer.<br />

It’s almost like the course is taunting<br />

you, like the Siren of Greek mythology<br />

calling you to play a little closer to the<br />

hazards. But don’t fall for it, there is<br />

a path to your target and by design<br />

Hanse will reward those who find it<br />

with par and better.<br />

The New Course is worthy of all the<br />

praise, and like a fine French Cabernet,<br />

will only get better with age.<br />

Gil Hanse | Golf Course Architect<br />

Gil Hanse has always been<br />

interested in design and<br />

construction. After completing an<br />

undergraduate degree at Clemson<br />

University, Hanse worked for<br />

several years as a land planner and<br />

civil engineer before returning<br />

to school to study landscape<br />

architecture. His unique approach<br />

to golf course design has won him<br />

numerous awards, and his courses<br />

are enjoyed by astute golfers around<br />

the world.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 17


The Club House<br />

The club house is a phenomenal centerpiece with rustic<br />

architecture and the finest of details. With seating for<br />

over 200 guests inside and out, members and visitors can<br />

enjoy the simplicity of relaxation or world class dining<br />

while marveling at the structure. The restaurant offers<br />

exceptional views across the entire course.<br />

18 . <strong>DRIFT</strong>TRAVEL.COM


The facilities are built to very high<br />

standards with lush green fairways<br />

and immaculate bunkering. The<br />

perfectly maintained practice area<br />

will have you feeling ready to test<br />

your abilities from the first tee. A<br />

large putting green and chipping<br />

area is complemented by an<br />

impressive driving range allowing<br />

golfers of all levels to warm up<br />

in preparation for their round.<br />

Twenty four of the thirty nine<br />

member cottages have been<br />

fully renovated by Londonbased<br />

architects Michaelis Boyd<br />

and they are spectacular.<br />

Yet to come, a partnership with<br />

Six Senses will transform the onsite<br />

19th century ‘Chateau Bel<br />

Air’ into a luxury hotel and spa.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 19


Cour du Baron Residences<br />

A twist on the traditional, the<br />

classical homes feature a mixture<br />

of local stone and timber cladding.<br />

Exposed rafters lend a countryside<br />

feeling to living spaces, and big<br />

windows create an openness<br />

that connects the interiors to the<br />

surrounding landscape and beyond.<br />

Morpheus & Co, the international<br />

interior design house behind some<br />

of the most exclusive hospitality<br />

and residential developments of<br />

the last 25 years, are the creatives<br />

behind the residential interiors.<br />

World-renowned for their turnkey<br />

delivery and groundbreaking interior<br />

architecture, interior design and<br />

highly tailored furniture solutions,<br />

from signature collections to<br />

completely unique pieces, they<br />

have designed bespoke “Cour du<br />

Baron” furniture collections to blend<br />

intimately with property design and<br />

the local environs.<br />

They are in active consultation with<br />

owners from across the world –<br />

including the UK, US, Switzerland,<br />

France, Sweden, Germany and<br />

The Netherlands – to deliver their<br />

dream interiors at Les Bordes,<br />

combining tactile, relaxing interiors<br />

and timeless design with biophilic<br />

features for a feeling of comfort and<br />

inspiration, and immersion into<br />

the surrounding environment both<br />

inside and out.<br />

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Some of the enriching amenities<br />

include natural fishing lakes, walking<br />

and cycling trails, an animal petting<br />

farm for children, outdoor play<br />

areas, and a natural swimming lake<br />

with its very own white sand beach –<br />

completely unique of anywhere else<br />

in the Loire Valley. Others include a<br />

renowned equestrian club, archery,<br />

tennis courts that will soon become<br />

a full club for training and leisure,<br />

and for younger family members,<br />

go-kart track and pony riding, with<br />

a kids’ club, ice-cream shop and<br />

zip lines coming later this year.<br />

Governed separately from the<br />

residential community and<br />

rest of the estate, the worldfamous<br />

Les Bordes Golf Club<br />

remains exclusively private.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 21


aloha from<br />

HAWAII<br />

BY: MATTHEW SCHUELLER<br />

Visiting Honolulu is much<br />

more than visiting a big city.<br />

Before I stepped off the plane onto<br />

the island, I thought the tropical paradise<br />

would be limited to me experiencing just<br />

Waikiki, but I quickly learned that I had access<br />

to much, much more—I could see the entire<br />

island! What I didn’t know is that when people<br />

say they are going to visit Honolulu, they can<br />

easily get from place to place all around<br />

Oahu. From one side of the island to<br />

the other, it may only take only<br />

a couple hours drive.<br />

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We booked our trip to celebrate our 3rd year wedding anniversary, but also<br />

to see a good friend who lived in Waikiki. Lucky for us, our friend Tanner<br />

was able to play as tour-guide during our visit. As soon as we landed, the first<br />

thing we did was pick up poke-bowls and walked to Waikiki beach to touch<br />

the ocean. The color of the water blew my mind. I had never seen such radiant<br />

turquoise in my life. It really was stunning as I remembered always imagining<br />

that the photos I had seen of Waikiki being overly saturated by photo-editing,<br />

but the photos truly does not do justice to seeing the water for yourself.<br />

Between bites of fresh Ahi Tuna with spicy mayo, we waded through the warm<br />

water absorbing all the sights and sounds of Hawaii’s most touristy beach. We<br />

didn’t want to spend long there, as Oahu is full of much more beautiful and<br />

secluded beaches. But we knew we had to at least experience a bit of Waikiki,<br />

especially in just arriving. Wading into the water was like a warm hello, a<br />

welcoming hug from the island.<br />

The spirit of the island is that of community. Everyone we met made us feel<br />

like we belonged there from the moment we arrived. After finishing our Poké<br />

bowls, we found a new friend at Kaimana’s Beach, just down the way from<br />

Waikiki. After enjoying a couple beers at Kaimana’s Beach and taking in the<br />

view, he took it upon himself to offer showing us some of his favorite spots<br />

around the island. I can’t think of anywhere else on earth that has people like<br />

this, who will drop everything at a simple hello and befriend you in an instant.<br />

We came to Hawaii with nothing planned and nothing pertinently scheduled<br />

so as to truly encompass the meaning of Aloha, the Hawaiian laid-back spirit<br />

towards life. So, at the offer of seeing the island through a new friend’s eyes, we<br />

took it to heart and accepted to meet up the next day.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 23


After a cheap but delicious<br />

breakfast of spam musubi from<br />

the neighborhood 7-11, with our<br />

new friend from Kaimana’s Beach,<br />

Michael and I piled into Tanner’s<br />

car to embark across the island to a<br />

place we had just heard about, Polo<br />

Beach. Known to locals as not only<br />

an LGBTQ+ friendly location, but<br />

also a popular clothing-optional<br />

stretch of pristine golden sand on<br />

Oahu’s Northern coast. Umbrella<br />

and snacks-in-hand, we found an<br />

open space and set-up our camp<br />

for the day. Often when we travel,<br />

we try to fit in as much as possible<br />

and see absolutely everything there<br />

is to see. Reflecting on trips like<br />

that, I’m reminded of how tired I’ve<br />

returned home and feel sometimes<br />

like, “I need a vacation from my<br />

vacation.” On our second day on<br />

Oahu, I started to understand the<br />

appeal and draw of the island. It’s<br />

a place I can finally unwind and<br />

relax. I didn’t feel the same rush<br />

of needing to go and experience<br />

absolutely everything that the island<br />

had to offer. I felt perfectly content,<br />

sitting on a beach surrounded by<br />

crystal blue water, feeling the sun<br />

on my face and in the company of<br />

good friends. In a word, paradise.<br />

In an experience, more than I could<br />

ever express on paper. Friends of<br />

our friends arrived at Polo Beach<br />

to join us, one of them gifting us a<br />

home-grown mango from his tree.<br />

Since we were already in the area, we<br />

decided to hike to Ka’ena Point, the<br />

westernmost edge of Oahu. Known<br />

for its remote coastal lava-crusted<br />

shoreline, Ka’ena Point’s rugged<br />

hiking trails lead to incredibly<br />

beautiful vistas providing Oahu’s<br />

largest Laysan albatross sanctuary.<br />

The hike in total is 3 miles to<br />

the edge, and 3 miles back from<br />

the starting point on the North<br />

Shore. We watched the sunset as<br />

albatross flew overhead, and it<br />

truly was a sight I’ll never forget.<br />

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Following our adventurous hike to the Western Point, we made plans to<br />

explore more of Oahu’s North Shore the following day, including seeing the<br />

famed Lanikai Beach. The destination certainly did not disappoint, as the color<br />

and clarity of the water exceeded even what we had seen at Waikiki or Polo<br />

Beach. The small islands Moku Nui and Moku Iki provided further magic to<br />

the backdrop as we sat perched on the sand. After a long day in the sun, the<br />

drive back provided even more beautiful surprises. Along the North Shore, the<br />

cliffs that were used for scenes from the movie, Jurassic Park stunned us as we<br />

drove around the bends. We stopped at Haolna Beach Cove to find a craterlike<br />

beach surrounded by steep and rocky cliffs. Many were taking advantage<br />

of the last hours of sunlight snorkeling in the turquoise waters.<br />

Though lounging and experiencing some of Oahu’s best beaches was a definite<br />

highlight of the trip, there was so much more to experience. On our last full<br />

day on the island, our friend Tanner surprised us with a catamaran sailing<br />

cruise along with friends we had met during our trip. The day-cruise departed<br />

from Waikiki Beach and sailed around the bay, providing plenty of drinks to<br />

enjoy as we enjoyed the view of the city from a different perspective. To cap off<br />

the trip, we went out to experience the nightlife with our newfound Hawaiian<br />

chosen family.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 25


Even though we stayed just a week on the island, it felt like we had been there<br />

for years. We connected closely with those we met incredibly fast, and that<br />

wasn’t just because we like to meet new people when we travel. It’s because<br />

of the laid-back and friendly Hawaiian way of life, and the idea that all who<br />

walk on this earth are connected in some way or another. As a relatively small<br />

island, Oahu is a tight-knit community—and though it’s one of the most<br />

popular tourist destinations in the USA, the community is still incredibly<br />

welcoming. So if you find yourself on the island, let go of any sense of strict<br />

planning, allow yourself to make a new friend, and go with the flow with that<br />

incredible Hawaiian sense of Aloha.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 27


BRUTREK beverage bottles<br />

Features an innovative dual lid system that makes carrying, sipping and<br />

pouring easy. The leak-proof top lid, which screws into either the second lid<br />

or the bottle, has a handle with rounded edges and a large opening for holding<br />

onto or fastening to a backpack. The second lid, which screws into the bottle,<br />

has a spout that’s large enough for smooth sipping and pouring, but will still<br />

keep ice contained. Use both lids or only the top lid as needed.<br />

brutrek.com<br />

HUNTER canvas desert commando boot<br />

Designed to be worn in the warmer months, the women’s canvas desert boot is designed<br />

in breathable natural cotton canvas. It keeps feet cool on a hot summer day while still<br />

providing natural insulation in cooler weather. The cotton-based fabric is highlighted with<br />

rubberized foxing, a high-grip outsole and kickspur to aid removal.<br />

hunterboots.com<br />

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MODERN PICNIC the backpack<br />

The chic, functional, and sustainable backpack is a great travel<br />

companion. The interior is insulated, includes a sleeve to protect<br />

your laptop, and even has compartments for your silverware. The<br />

backpack is also perfect for travel whether you are planning a picnic<br />

in the park or packing for a weekend getaway!<br />

modernpicnic.com<br />

WHITNEY LINEN resort wear<br />

Linen is one of the strongest fibers, making it an inherently sustainable<br />

choice. The Resort <strong>2022</strong> Collection features pieces designed for<br />

getaways and city stays. The collection showcases Whitney Linen’s<br />

take on safari style with a tropical twist!<br />

whitneylinen.com<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 29


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SKYDIO skydio 2+ drone<br />

A drone which builds on the industry-leading<br />

autonomy of the Skydio 2 drone with important<br />

hardware and software improvements. Plus<br />

enhanced wireless range and battery life to get<br />

the most out of every adventure. Also, Skydio<br />

announced new groundbreaking autonomous<br />

flight capability, Skydio KeyFrame. Skydio<br />

Keyframe is an AI skill that allows a user to<br />

design and capture smooth, complex camera<br />

moves with just a few taps.<br />

skydio.com


THE ROLLING STONES luggage collection<br />

A tribute to the pioneers of hard rock. The suitcase<br />

collection feature a branded telescopic trolley<br />

handle that locks in 2 different positions, and<br />

single 360° spinner wheels, for precise control<br />

and smooth, quiet rolling. The inside includes<br />

a signature Rolling Stones lining, dividing<br />

panel, tightening straps and various pockets for<br />

optimized packing that remains in place during<br />

your trip.<br />

bfashionbags.com<br />

SPINN CP.02 camera carrying system<br />

A new carrying system for almost every DSLR and mirrorless<br />

camera. Let your camera rest bombproof in any position<br />

without swinging or slipping, and enjoy unrestricted access<br />

and perfect view of all controls.<br />

spinn.design<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 31


A nighttime wedding party lights sky lanterns to remember loved ones who<br />

have passed on. One is for the bride’s father, a beloved friend.<br />

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BELGIUM<br />

A Photographic Journey<br />

Featured Artist: Shelley Coar<br />

Instagram: @shelleycoartravel<br />

Website: shelleycoar.com<br />

Gear: Canon 5D Mark IV, Canon EF<br />

16-35 f/2.8L, RRS Ultralight Tripod<br />

& BH-40 Ball Head<br />

Shelley is a travel photographer and<br />

write who lives in Denver, Colorado,<br />

with her husband and son. She enjoys<br />

photographing low light landscapes and is<br />

most inspired in her second home country<br />

of Belgium.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 33


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The lively daytime canals of Bruges are normally packed with boats of<br />

tourists, but not at night. The up-lights of the iconic Belfort tower caught<br />

my eye as evening blanketed the city.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 35


The secluded Abbaye Notre-Dame de Saint Remy is home to the<br />

Cistercian monks who brew the world-renowned Rochefort beer.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 37


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Symmetrical white cabanas await the daytime throng<br />

of beach-goers at the Knokke-Heist on the North Sea.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 39


Walk down a dusty lane, and you will inevitably find a hidden countryside<br />

chapel like this one secluded near Hoegaarden.<br />

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Windmills make for a serene bike stop along the canal from Bruges to Damme.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 41


Belgium is best explored on bike and has a myriad of mapped cycling<br />

routes covering the countryside and cities alike.<br />

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Tree lined esplanades run parallel the canals flowing from Bruges to the<br />

North Sea and make for a perfect escape by bike or foot.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 43


The glassy pre-dawn River Lys reflects the facades of Ghent, a tranquil view of the<br />

medieval city before the crowded and energetic day begins.<br />

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TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 45


xenodocheio Milos<br />

Athens<br />

xenodocheio Milos is located in downtown Athens<br />

opposite Old Parliament, an area bursting with history<br />

and celebrates the best of Greek heritage, art and<br />

cuisine. Elegant and refined, this authentic culinary<br />

hotel experience is the very first luxury boutique hotel of<br />

the world-renowned Greek restaurant estiatorio Milos,<br />

carrying the inspiring story of Milos to its next chapter.<br />

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A World Renowned Gastronomic Experience<br />

Offering some of the world’s finest Mediterranean<br />

dishes from acclaimed founder and chef<br />

executive Costas Spiliadis, the hotel brings a<br />

symbol of iconic simplicity to life through divine<br />

gastronomy. Simple and refined Mediterranean<br />

food packed full of rich flavors awaits, serving<br />

the finest fresh seafood from mouth-watering<br />

Oysters, fresh Greek Ceviche and wild red<br />

Madagascar shrimp to celebrated Greek desserts<br />

including the delicious Karidopita and Baklava.<br />

Unwind in the heart of the city, and enjoy a<br />

selection of blissful and rejuvenating wellness<br />

experiences from rooftop yoga to pilates in the<br />

boutique gym. Those looking to host exclusive<br />

private events can pick from a number of<br />

stunning meeting rooms or take matters to<br />

new heights in the open-air entertainment<br />

terrace. Offering perfectly crafted suites with<br />

soft velvet furnishings and wooden floors<br />

for whatever the occasion, xenodocheio<br />

Milos goes above and beyond to ensure<br />

guests needs and desires are exceeded.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 47


Top Hotels for<br />

Afternoon Tea<br />

Experiences<br />

BY: JUNE DAGNALL<br />

There is no question that afternoon tea is always in style, and it has certainly evolved significantly over the last<br />

two hundred years. Culinary chefs these days express their own creative flair and are continually adding new<br />

twists to this indulgent British tradition.<br />

Afternoon tea was introduced in England in 1840 by Anne, the seventh Duchess of Bedford. It is said that the Duchess<br />

would become hungry around four o’clock in the afternoon. The evening meal in her household was served fashionably<br />

late at eight o’clock, thus leaving a long period of time between lunch and dinner. The Duchess asked that a tray of tea,<br />

bread, and cake be brought to her room during the late afternoon. This became a habit, and she soon began inviting<br />

friends to join her for this ritual.<br />

Tea quickly became a stylish social event, and during the 1880’s upper class and society woman would change into long<br />

gowns, gloves, and hats for their afternoon tea which was served in the drawing room between four and five o’clock<br />

complete with silver teapots, fine linens, elegant teacups and world renowned teas.<br />

Traditional afternoon tea typically consists of a selection of dainty sandwiches, scones served with clotted cream and<br />

preserves, as well as an assortment of cakes and pastries.<br />

There are a few tea etiquette rules that still exist today. Eat sandwiches first and with fingers please, not the cutlery.<br />

Warm scones should be enjoyed next and proper etiquette advises that these should be broken in two by hand, not with<br />

a knife. Please also remember that extending your pinky finger is a “don’t” when enjoying afternoon tea, and please<br />

never cradle the cup in your hands!<br />

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The Plaza - New York City, USA<br />

The historic Plaza in New York City has been an iconic<br />

destination for afternoon tea for more than 100 years.<br />

Magnificently situated in the hotel’s Palm Court, tea<br />

guests allude to the fact that they feel as though Central<br />

Park has been brought indoors while they enjoy a<br />

delightful tea experience under a stained glass dome.<br />

Tea choices include selections such as Chinese green tea,<br />

English breakfast, and lavender oolong. Patrons dine on<br />

delicate sandwiches, pastries and scones all served on<br />

Bernardaud china and custom tableware. There are a<br />

variety of tea menus, such as the classic Manhattan Tea,<br />

or for special occasions guests can order the indulgent<br />

Grand Imperial Tea for two, complete with caviar service.<br />

There is a signature tea for children featuring peanut<br />

butter and jelly finger sandwiches, cake pops, cotton<br />

candy and caffeine-free tea. After Eloise, the children’s<br />

book character, lives at the Plaza and in her books often<br />

enjoys afternoon tea here.<br />

Claridge’s - London, England<br />

Claridge’s has been serving afternoon tea for 150 years.<br />

For a century or more, their Executive Chefs have<br />

remained faithful to the classic combination of finger<br />

sandwiches, scones served warm, and sweet pastries.<br />

Prepared and served fresh each day, the menu faithfully<br />

follows the traditional combination of sweet and savory.<br />

The ingredients include British specialties such as<br />

poached Scottish salmon, and their pastries change to<br />

reflect the fruits of the season. Of course, at the heart of<br />

the experience is the tea itself. From a rich Oolong to the<br />

refreshingly complex Claridge’s Blend, there is a tea that<br />

will complement your tea experience perfectly.<br />

Afternoon tea is served from a specially designed stand<br />

and on the very finest bone china and silverware, both<br />

made to a unique Claridge’s design. Guests enjoy their<br />

experience while being immersed in the 1930s art deco<br />

design of the Foyer and Reading Room.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 49


Fairmont Empress Hotel - Victoria, Canada<br />

Tea at the Empress has been as they say, “hot and<br />

steamy since 1908” when the hotel first opened. A<br />

grand tradition for over a century, the world renowned<br />

Fairmont Empress has served England’s most beloved<br />

ritual of afternoon tea to famed royalty, celebrities and<br />

dignitaries alike. Afternoon tea is elegantly served in the<br />

timeless Lobby Lounge overlooking the beautiful inner<br />

harbor, and provides live classical piano accompaniment.<br />

The Empress offers twenty one rare, ethically produced<br />

teas showcasing varieties from all major growing areas<br />

around the world.<br />

Indulge in delicate sandwiches, freshly baked Empress<br />

raisin scone with homemade clotted cream and jam,<br />

as well as a decadent dessert tier. Tea at the Empress<br />

can also be enjoyed by their tiny Prince and Princesses<br />

between the ages of 5 and 12 years old to feel like royalty<br />

while partaking in this coveted tradition.<br />

Hotel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel – Paris, France<br />

Located just off the famed Champs-Élysées, one will find<br />

the Hôtel de Crillon. This stunning hotel opened in 1909<br />

and is a must do Parisian destination at tea time for both<br />

travelers and locals alike.<br />

Afternoon tea at Jardin d’Hiver, which translates to<br />

winter garden in French, is a glamorous affair served<br />

in a gorgeous room filled with plump couches, plush<br />

armchairs and dripping with chandeliers. There is also an<br />

outside terrace that is very popular.<br />

Tea service brings out the sweet desserts supplied by head<br />

pastry chef Matthieu Carlin. The surprising menu also<br />

has some original inclusions, such as a lobster roll and<br />

puffed brioches as an alternative choice to scones. Sip<br />

on a hot drink and munch on savory finger sandwiches,<br />

three pastries, homemade scones or homemade brioche,<br />

and jam and clotted cream.<br />

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The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia<br />

The elegant Tea Lounge in the Majestic Wing of the<br />

hotel is open to the breezes off the lawn fronting the<br />

hotel. The old-fashioned grid ceilings feature classic cutglass<br />

lighting with antique brass fittings. Cozy arrays of<br />

comfortable arm chairs with subdued lighting from table<br />

lamps provide the perfect setting for English Afternoon<br />

Tea with a Malaysian twist.<br />

Indulge in a high tea set that’s fit for royalty with the<br />

Colonial Cafe’s Majestic Afternoon Tea, featuring a classic<br />

spread of scones with clotted cream and jams, finger<br />

sandwiches, cakes and delicious savories served piping<br />

hot. Your own individual tea pot is put on a warmer so<br />

servers don’t have to constantly add hot water.<br />

Victoria Falls Hotel, Zimbabwe – South Africa<br />

Elegant and refined can best describe the High Tea at<br />

the Victoria Falls Hotel. Traditional afternoon silver tea<br />

service can be enjoyed every day on an outdoor terrace<br />

with stunning views of the Victoria Falls Bridge. You<br />

can hear the thundering of the falls while you sip on<br />

your tea and nibble on decadent pastries, scones and<br />

sandwiches. One of the oldest hotels in Africa, enjoying<br />

tea on Stanley's Terrace comes with all of the traditional<br />

accoutrement, as guests are transported back in time<br />

thanks to the elegant, historic location. Built by the<br />

British in 1904, this expansive Edwardian hotel features<br />

dazzling manicured lawns and gardens, and stands right<br />

next to the Falls.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 51


Gunners Barracks Tea Room – Sydney, Australia<br />

Built in 1873 from locally quarried sandstone, the<br />

Gunners Barracks which has now been beautifully<br />

restored, was formerly an officers’ mess, forming part of<br />

the fortifications at Georges Heights built for the defense<br />

of Sydney.<br />

Tables are covered with damask table cloths and set<br />

with pretty “Country Roses” Royal Albert bone china,<br />

and high tea was presented on an elegant plated tiered<br />

stand. Relish freshly baked scones with clotted cream<br />

and preserves followed by finely cut sandwiches, savory<br />

pastries and delectable petit cakes all create daily by our<br />

highly skilled team of chef ’s. To compliment is Asia’s<br />

largest selection of Ronnefeldt teas, a total of 41 specialty<br />

teas for you to choose from.<br />

Grand Hyatt – Hong Kong - China<br />

The popular afternoon tea served in Tiffin Restaurant,<br />

features three tiers filled with savory and sweet delicacies<br />

with a distinctly French flavor. This is complemented by<br />

the live dessert stations and ice-cream counter.<br />

Echoing Tiffin’s namesake and heritage, the takeaway<br />

version of the afternoon tea set consists of three<br />

compartments meticulously stacked together to resemble<br />

the famous “tiffin” boxes from the British Raj era. The box<br />

is adorned with Tiffin’s signature tableware pattern for<br />

you to recreate an elegant tea time at home.<br />

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The Biltmore Mayfair, LXR Hotels & Resorts –<br />

London, England<br />

Stepping inside the Tea Lounge at The Biltmore<br />

Mayfair, guests will find a classic London afternoon tea<br />

experience beckoning to them. Located in London's<br />

luxurious Grosvenor Square, surrounded by parks<br />

and gardens, tea at The Biltmore Mayfair is a definitely<br />

sumptuous experience.<br />

The afternoon tea menu highlights fresh classic UK<br />

produce featuring English cucumber, black truffle, and<br />

heritage tomato sandwiches, scones with Cornish clotted<br />

cream, fresh Kent strawberries, and chocolate mousse<br />

with Scottish raspberry jelly.<br />

Whether you keep things simple with just a cup of<br />

tea from the trolley and a scone, or add a glass of<br />

Champagne to the full afternoon tea service, this English<br />

tradition is a must-do for anyone hoping for a classic<br />

teatime experience.<br />

Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai - India<br />

With an established tradition of afternoon tea dating back<br />

to the early 20th century, the landmark Taj Mahal Palace<br />

Hotel is a historic city institution. Tea is served in the Sea<br />

Lounge, with art deco furnishings and old colonial charm<br />

from 1903 when the hotel was first built. This iconic room<br />

is aptly named, as guests can catch great views of the ships<br />

on the harbor before they set sail on the Arabian Sea. In<br />

the evenings, guests can enjoy live music. The tea service<br />

is offered buffet style, with local Indian favorites along<br />

with a nod to the classic British favorites.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 53


Freewheeling to the glaciers in<br />

NEW ZEALAND<br />

BY: ANDREW MARSHALL<br />

“It’s magnificent cycling country,” declared 65-year-old Andy Bremner when I met<br />

him inside the Adventure Cycles shop in Auckland. Tanned, fit and sporting a milewide<br />

grin, Andy was completing his third season pedaling New Zealand and had so<br />

far clocked up 3000 km. "There’s nothing I like better than to pack up each morning,<br />

load the panniers on the racks, look over the handlebars and head off down that open<br />

road,” he said.<br />

With its magnificent volcanic landscapes, gushing geysers and rugged coastlines<br />

backed by prehistoric rainforest, there can be no better way to experience this cool<br />

green land, and certainly no better speed, than by bicycle.<br />

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My plan was to cycle from the<br />

North Island to the glaciers<br />

on the South Island, but<br />

when I got down to the actual route<br />

planning, the line on my map zigzagged<br />

all over the place in an attempt to take<br />

in just some of the abundant points of<br />

interest.<br />

It was a gray drizzly Auckland<br />

morning when I caught the ferry to<br />

the Coromandel Peninsula – a densely<br />

forested coastal strip across the Firth<br />

of Thames. The boat had barely pulled<br />

alongside the dock before I was off,<br />

legs pumping, and the salt air fresh in<br />

my lungs, the bitumen rolling steadily<br />

beneath my wheels.<br />

Cycling along the coast I passed through<br />

the characterful towns of Manaia,<br />

Waikawau and Tapu. By late afternoon<br />

I'd covered my first 50 km with just<br />

enough time to set up camp in Thames,<br />

and cook quick pasta on my stove before<br />

dark.<br />

Day two is always the hardest on a cycle<br />

tour. The reality of stiff muscles and a<br />

tender behind hit home as I loaded up<br />

the bike and hit the road. But a couple<br />

of hours later the stunning scenery was<br />

enough to distract my mind from aching<br />

body parts. And besides, the first of<br />

many highlights was within reach.<br />

In the coming days I turned inland to<br />

the Rotorua region, well-known for it's<br />

geysers, hot springs, mud pools and<br />

shimmering lakes. I spent endless days<br />

in the saddle skirting the very heart of<br />

the North Island, along the shores of<br />

beautiful Lake Taupo, New Zealand's<br />

largest lake and onto the Tongariro<br />

National Park where I camped for a<br />

couple of nights to take a break from<br />

cycling and experience one of the<br />

world's best day walks - the Tongariro<br />

Alpine Crossing.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 55


With its fine collection of active volcanoes, Tongariro National Park is one of New<br />

Zealand's most spectacular parks, and the 19.4 km Tongariro Alpine Crossing (which<br />

takes about 7-9 hours) traverses this surreal landscape dominated by three volcanoes:<br />

Mt Ruapehu (2797m) the highest and most active, Mt Tongariro (1968m), the oldest but<br />

still considered active, and the much younger Mt Ngauruhoe (2291m). Volcanic craters,<br />

brilliantly colored volcanic lakes, hot springs, glacial valleys, cones and lava flows are some<br />

of the many highlights of this stunning World Heritage Site.<br />

The crossing from the North Island to the South Island is always a psychological milestone<br />

for any cyclist. Leaving the cultural and artistic hub of Wellington, I rode the ferry to the<br />

pretty little town of Picton, situated at the head of the Queen Charlotte Sound on the<br />

South Island.<br />

The lack of traffic was immediately apparent as I pedaled off towards Nelson, reveling<br />

in magnificent coastal views over the Marlborough Sound. For the weary cyclist like<br />

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myself, the laid back town of Nelson<br />

represented a cosmopolitan oasis;<br />

waterholes at local pubs, great<br />

restaurants and the best chance to stock<br />

up on provisions for my 2-3 day journey<br />

inland and across to Westport on the<br />

west coast.<br />

Cycling New Zealand is certainly a<br />

challenge but despite its hilly nature, it<br />

attracts cyclists from all over the globe<br />

and stopping to chat is a common<br />

occurrence. “You’ve got about 5km of<br />

climbing ahead of you, but it’s a great<br />

downhill after that," is typical of the<br />

comments from fellow cyclists you meet<br />

on the road.<br />

From Dutch couples, members of the<br />

Cross Canada Cycle Tour Society,<br />

single Kiwis, to super fit German<br />

couples towing trailers of gear behind<br />

the latest in bicycle technology, there<br />

seemed no limit to age or nationality, all<br />

sharing a great sense of adventure and<br />

camaraderie.<br />

From Westport to Greymouth, South<br />

Highway 6 hugs the west coast as tightly<br />

as a pair of Lycra bike shorts. In a series<br />

of dramatic switchbacks the road snakes<br />

between the white-capped breakers<br />

out to sea, and the foothills of the<br />

rainforest-clad Paparoa Ranges, cloaked<br />

in tree ferns and stands of ancient<br />

beech, rata and rimu.<br />

After days in the saddle sampling some<br />

of the world’s most glorious scenery,<br />

I was finally within reach of my goal,<br />

the Franz Josef Glacier situated in the<br />

World Heritage Westland National<br />

Park. The glacier along with nearby Fox<br />

glacier is unique, for nowhere else on<br />

earth at this latitude have they advanced<br />

so close to the sea.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 57


But cycling is not the way to go in this land of ice; it’s much better to take the helicopter.<br />

The whir of the chopper’s blades sounded like a gigantic insect when it came in to land,<br />

sending a blast of wind towards the small group of waiting travelers. The athletic figure<br />

of outdoor guide Murray Naylor crouched low beside the helicopter as he beckoned each<br />

person over one by one.<br />

This was the start of my heli-hike – and within a few minutes the helicopter was flying<br />

over an immense river of ice that tumbled down a densely forested valley towards the sea.<br />

After superb panoramic views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains, we landed<br />

high up on top of the glacier between the icefalls for the start of our two-hour guided trip.<br />

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“This is one of the most dynamic glaciers in the world,” Murray told us as we donned<br />

warm hats and jackets to combat the sudden blast of cold air. “At times the glacier can<br />

move at up to five meters a day, over ten times as fast as glaciers in the Swiss Alps.”I<br />

quickly found myself immersed in a surreal landscape, surrounded by the sculptural<br />

beauty of ice. Fluted towers, eroded pinnacles, tunnels, pools, crevasses and frozen waves.<br />

The surface looked thin and brittle in places, but can in fact be up to 150 meters thick. It<br />

was an awesome opportunity to experience the type of scenery that is usually the domain<br />

of mountaineers.<br />

Leaning on my ice axe I took a breather and savored the view. Back down the glacier’s<br />

flank a group of hikers created a snaking ribbon of color that contrasted vividly against the<br />

white of the ice, putting into perspective the immensity of this frozen world. It seemed the<br />

perfect moment to reflect on my bicycle journey.<br />

Within a month I’d accomplished what I had set out to do, ride from north to south and<br />

reach the glaciers by pedal power-a journey of nearly 2,000 km. Now all that was left was<br />

the bus, ferry and train back to Auckland. The thought left me feeling flat. Already I was<br />

yearning to be back in the saddle again, with the wind in my face and the beguiling beauty<br />

of this green and mountainous land filling my view.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 59


Nevada’s<br />

Weirdest<br />

Wonders<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ers looking for a super strange or off-thebeaten-path<br />

trip idea, look no further. <strong>Travel</strong><br />

Nevada released its inaugural list of the state’s<br />

Seven Weirdest Wonders. Just like the Seven Wonders<br />

of the Ancient World are proof of humanity’s<br />

ingenuity, Nevada’s Seven Weirdest Wonders are<br />

definitive proof that the Silver State is filled with<br />

abundant unique places. These locations aren’t just<br />

fun to see and talk about – experiences like these can<br />

transform vacationers by opening their eyes to things<br />

they never imagined.<br />

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Alien Research Center<br />

BY: TRACIE BARNTHOUSE<br />

Almost everyone has heard of Area 51. While you<br />

definitely can’t storm it (seriously, you’ll be arrested<br />

before you can say “ET”), you can go inside the Alien<br />

Research Center and get a feel for what those little green<br />

creatures might have found after crash-landing in the<br />

area. As the gateway to the world-famous Extraterrestrial<br />

Highway, the Alien Research Center is the perfect way to<br />

start your own alien hunt. Extraterrestrial enthusiasts and<br />

skeptics alike won’t want to miss stopping at the gift shop<br />

to stock up on various alien-related knick-knacks at this<br />

one-of-a-kind Nevada experience.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 61


International Car Forest of the Last Church<br />

Rethink any preconceived notions of a typical forest with<br />

trees and greens. This open air gallery comprises more<br />

than 40 graffiti cars, each a unique masterpiece. The<br />

“forest” has no artist statement or bulletin, so visitors are<br />

free to interpret the surrounding art in limitless ways.<br />

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Clown Motel<br />

If you haven’t stayed in a hotel since… well, who can<br />

even remember? Make the first overnight one you’ll<br />

never forget. The Clown Motel in Tonopah is the perfect<br />

place to get over your fear of clowns — or maybe make<br />

it worse? We’ll let you decide. No matter your goal, this<br />

motel has arguably the largest private collection of clownthemed<br />

memorabilia, and is a landmark that makes<br />

Nevada unique. Oh, and did we mention it’s situated<br />

right next to a historic (allegedly haunted) cemetery? Of<br />

COURSE it is!<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 63


Goldwell Open Air Museum<br />

Among some of the world’s most distinctive pieces of<br />

experiential art is the Goldwell Open Air Museum. More<br />

an “experience” than a “museum,” Goldwell boasts seven<br />

colossal structures, including a ghostly, life-size version<br />

of Leonardo Da Vinci’s painting of the Last Supper; a<br />

25-foot pink woman constructed of cinder blocks; and<br />

a gleaming tangle of chrome car accessories. Forget<br />

the velvet ropes of a traditional museum – visitors are<br />

encouraged to step right into these pieces of art.<br />

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Fly Geyser<br />

Imagine digging a hole in the middle of the desert and<br />

suddenly getting sprayed by hot water as if you hit a pipe.<br />

You walk away, only to learn that years later, that hole is<br />

still spewing, but is now a 12-foot geyser with a rainbow<br />

of colored rocks surrounding it. That’s essentially how Fly<br />

Geyser came to be, and, after more than 100 years since<br />

the first “pipe” was hit, people can still come see this everspewing<br />

natural fountain in all its beauty.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 65


Amazing<br />

STATE PARKS<br />

to visit this summer<br />

BY: MARGARET MURRAY<br />

State parks across the United States are typically established by a state to<br />

preserve a location on account of its natural beauty, historic interest, or<br />

recreational potential. These parks are managed at the State level as opposed<br />

to the federal level as in the National Park System.<br />

The United States has over 10,000 state parks that span more than 18 million acres<br />

across the country. These spaces have become invaluable these last two years when<br />

borders were closed and people scrambled to follow their wanderlust. These parks<br />

have become extensions of our own back yards providing both exciting adventures as<br />

well as peaceful reflection experiences. State parks have some of the most beautiful<br />

landscapes and very often are much less busy than the National parks. With<br />

thousands to choose from the list is endless so here is a tiny sampling of some of the<br />

most popular. Get out the hiking boots and hit the trails!<br />

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Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park - California<br />

Jedidiah Smith Redwoods State Park contains the most old-growth redwoods per<br />

acre in California, and in fact seven percent of all old growth redwood trees in the<br />

world. The park is located just inland from Northern California’s rugged coastline<br />

and near the banks of the Smith River. The almost spiritual track of dense ancient<br />

redwood forest is best for hiking, forest bathing and swimming, with 20 miles of<br />

hiking and nature trails offered in this lush rainforest. The park was named for<br />

Jedediah Strong Smith, who in the 1820s became the first white man to explore the<br />

interior of northern California. Marvel in the incredibly humbling experience of<br />

standing at the base of an old growth redwood tree as you walk through misty ferns<br />

and ancient greens.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 67


Harris Beach State Park – Oregon<br />

Harris Beach State Park is a Pacific Northwest coastal paradise located on Oregon’s<br />

rugged south coast. This beautiful park is known for birdwatching, whale watching<br />

and beach combing. Sandy beaches are divided by rocky cliffs. Tide pools are<br />

home to an abundance of marine life for tide pool exploring. You will spot seals<br />

swimming off-shore as impressive wave’s crash around you. This is also home to<br />

Bird Island, a National Wildlife Refuge where you will find puffins, Aleutian Canada<br />

Geese and terns. In the spring and fall seasons be watching for the migrating gray<br />

whales. Bird Island, also referred to as Goat Island, is Oregon’s largest off-shore<br />

island. There are campgrounds and yurts available for visitors and the park is<br />

suitable for year round camping.<br />

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Custer State Park – South Dakota<br />

Custer State Park, one of the country’s top wildlife parks is comprised almost 100,000<br />

acres located in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The park draws comparison to<br />

Yellowstone National Park when it comes to spectacular scenery and abundant<br />

wildlife. The park is home to a large variety of wildlife including Antelope, elk,<br />

and nearly 1300 bison offering visitors the chance to have close encounters with<br />

these permanent residents. Trail rides, scenic drives, bike rides and safari tours<br />

are perfect ways to explore this impressive South Dakota attraction. Enjoy water<br />

recreation in Custer State Park’s lakes, and appreciate panoramic views of the Black<br />

Hills with incredible vantage points of Mount Rushmore.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 69


Cheaha State Park – Alabama<br />

Cheaha State Park is a publicly owned recreation area located in northern clay and<br />

southwestern Cleburne counties in Alabama. It is the oldest state park in Alabama<br />

dating back to 1933. It is located on the southernmost tip of the Appalachian<br />

mountain chain. Almost three thousand acres of granite bounders and ancient<br />

trees sitting high above sea level. This woodsy retreat and lush waterfalls offer miles<br />

of hiking paths to sink your hiking boots into. The park is surrounded by the<br />

Talladega National Forest and has all the comforts you need including a restaurant<br />

serving burgers and stone baked pizzas. You can rent stone cabins or opt for the<br />

campground. There are also two fascinating museums within the park. The Native<br />

American history museum and the Civilian Conservation Corps.<br />

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Devil’s Den State Park – Arkansas<br />

Devil’s Den State Park nestled in the Lee Creek Valley was selected as a state park<br />

site in the 1930s. The Civilian Conservation Corps used native materials to build<br />

the park’s rustic-style wood and stone structures that mirror the surrounding<br />

natural beauty. It now stands as one of the most intact CCC sites in the U.S., with<br />

a legacy you can see in its trails and buildings. The park is built for year round<br />

recreation with trails for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding leading<br />

to the surrounding Ozark National Forest. There are also cabins and campsites<br />

ranging from modern to primitive to suit your individual wants. Fossils of coral<br />

and crinoids can be found along the banks and within Lee Creek at Devil’s Den<br />

State Park. The renowned Ozark Mountain Biking Festival is held here each spring.<br />

TRAVEL OFTEN . LIVE WELL . 71


#WHERETONEXT<br />

WESTERN CANADA<br />

Join us as we journey in high style through the magnificent<br />

Canadian Rockies aboard the iconic Rocky Mountaineer.<br />

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