The Cake - Spring 2022

A slice of Cranbrook and Sissinghurst life A slice of Cranbrook and Sissinghurst life

02.03.2022 Views

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BADGER’S PLOT Spring MusingsJOBS ON We are entering an exciting and busy time of the year in the kitchen garden or on the plot. The days are getting longer and the sun is warming the soil. But there is still the risk of late frosts and cold northerly winds which act as reminders that summer has not arrived yet. I have previously suggested the possibility of creating a herb garden. There are many clever ideas on the subject but this is going to be a little more basic, serving to supply only the kitchen with the more popular herbs. Choice of site is important as most common herbs originated in the Mediterranean, so plenty of sun is preferred. The size of the bed will be determined by what you want to grow and about eight feet by four feet would be just right for a beginner. Fork in some well-rotted organic compost and rake it to a fine tilth. Avoid using manure or artificial fertilizer. If you your soil is clay based, try to improve the drainage with gravel or grit. There are many varieties of herb and you may have personal favourites but try to include sage, thyme, chive, parsley and rosemary. Mints are also a must but beware! They are very invasive and spread everywhere if not controlled. Try setting a large pot in the soil and filling it with compost which will help confine the roots. Garden centres always have a good selection of plants if you don’t have time to sow seeds. I have split this period into three: early spring, mid spring and late spring. EARLY SPRING Sowing under glass or greenhouse: Tomatoes, courgettes, squashes, chilli, aubergines, peppers, peas, broccoli, celery and beetroot. Sowing or planting outside: Sow parsnips, radishes, early carrots and potatoes. Plant out onion sets and shallots. Asparagus crowns can be planted but remember they won’t produce edible spears for at least two years. It’s not too late to plant out garlic and broad beans. MID SPRING Sowing under glass or greenhouse: Brussels sprouts, autumn cabbage and sweetcorn followed by runner and French beans and cucumber. Sowing or planting outdoors: Provided all risk of frost has passed, plant courgettes, celery and celeriac. LATE SPRING Sowing under glass/greenhouse or outdoors: Kale, purple sprouting broccoli, savoy cabbage, swede and lettuce, with carrots and beetroot towards the end of spring. Leeks can also be planted out if grown from seed. Top Tip! Almost all vegetable seeds stand a better chance of germination if sown in plug trays. Planting out the seedlings in their “plugs” gives them a much better chance of survival. THE PLOT With warmer weather and longer daylight hours, your plot will show signs of weed growth and it’s important to weed regularly otherwise all the hard work of sowing and planting will be lost if your plants have to compete with weeds for nutrients. It is worthwhile familiarising yourself with the following weeds: couch grass, dock, creeping thistle, bindweed, buttercup, dandelion, mare’s tail, nettle, chickweed and bramble. None is welcome and don’t put any of them on your compost heap. After clearing away the remains of last season’s crops, prepare the ground for immediate composting so that it will be in the right condition when this season’s plants are ready for the soil. In earlier columns I referred to companion planting where certain plants can be grown among vegetables to encourage growth or deter pests. In some cases, the flowers are used as sacrificial plants to protect the vegetables. Since the use of chemicals for these activities is being discouraged, now might be the time to conduct a trial of your own. Generally speaking, the companions should be planted at the end of rows and removed in the late autumn. There are a great many combinations currently in use. Here are a few suggestions: • Beans: Nasturtium – attracts blackfly – sacrificial plant • Carrots: Spring onions amongst crop discourages carrot root fly • Cucumbers: Nasturtium attracts blackfly and improves flavour of cucumber • Potatoes: Chamomile enhances flavour and attract pollinators • Tomatoes: Basil improves growth and deters pests • Squash: Borage improves growth and flavour, attracts pollinators • Brassica’s: Chamomile aids growth and enhances flavour As can be seen, some of the companion plants can also be harvested for the kitchen. Badger Badger The CakeSpring 2022 35

BADGER’S PLOT<br />

<strong>Spring</strong> MusingsJOBS ON<br />

We are entering an exciting<br />

and busy time of the year<br />

in the kitchen garden or<br />

on the plot. <strong>The</strong> days are<br />

getting longer and the<br />

sun is warming the soil. But there is still the<br />

risk of late frosts and cold northerly winds<br />

which act as reminders that summer has not<br />

arrived yet.<br />

I have previously suggested the possibility<br />

of creating a herb garden. <strong>The</strong>re are many<br />

clever ideas on the subject but this is going<br />

to be a little more basic, serving to supply<br />

only the kitchen with the more popular<br />

herbs.<br />

Choice of site is important as most<br />

common herbs originated in the<br />

Mediterranean, so plenty of sun is preferred.<br />

<strong>The</strong> size of the bed will be determined by<br />

what you want to grow and about eight<br />

feet by four feet would be just right for a<br />

beginner. Fork in some well-rotted organic<br />

compost and rake it to a fine tilth. Avoid<br />

using manure or artificial fertilizer. If you<br />

your soil is clay based, try to improve the<br />

drainage with gravel or grit.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re are many varieties of herb and<br />

you may have personal favourites but<br />

try to include sage, thyme, chive, parsley<br />

and rosemary. Mints are also a must but<br />

beware! <strong>The</strong>y are very invasive and spread<br />

everywhere if not controlled. Try setting<br />

a large pot in the soil and filling it with<br />

compost which will help confine the roots.<br />

Garden centres always have a good selection<br />

of plants if you don’t have time to sow seeds.<br />

I have split this period into three: early<br />

spring, mid spring and late spring.<br />

EARLY SPRING<br />

Sowing under glass or greenhouse:<br />

Tomatoes, courgettes, squashes, chilli,<br />

aubergines, peppers, peas, broccoli, celery<br />

and beetroot.<br />

Sowing or planting outside: Sow parsnips,<br />

radishes, early carrots and potatoes. Plant<br />

out onion sets and shallots. Asparagus<br />

crowns can be planted but remember they<br />

won’t produce edible spears for at least two<br />

years. It’s not too late to plant out garlic and<br />

broad beans.<br />

MID SPRING<br />

Sowing under glass or greenhouse: Brussels<br />

sprouts, autumn cabbage and sweetcorn<br />

followed by runner and French beans and<br />

cucumber.<br />

Sowing or planting outdoors: Provided<br />

all risk of frost has passed, plant courgettes,<br />

celery and celeriac.<br />

LATE SPRING<br />

Sowing under glass/greenhouse or outdoors:<br />

Kale, purple sprouting broccoli, savoy<br />

cabbage, swede and lettuce, with carrots and<br />

beetroot towards the end of spring. Leeks<br />

can also be planted out if grown from seed.<br />

Top Tip!<br />

Almost all vegetable seeds stand a better<br />

chance of germination if sown in plug trays.<br />

Planting out the seedlings in their “plugs”<br />

gives them a much better chance of survival.<br />

THE PLOT<br />

With warmer weather and longer<br />

daylight hours, your plot will show<br />

signs of weed growth and it’s important<br />

to weed regularly otherwise all the hard<br />

work of sowing and planting will be<br />

lost if your plants have to compete with<br />

weeds for nutrients.<br />

It is worthwhile familiarising yourself<br />

with the following weeds: couch grass,<br />

dock, creeping thistle, bindweed,<br />

buttercup, dandelion, mare’s tail,<br />

nettle, chickweed and bramble. None is<br />

welcome and don’t put any of them on<br />

your compost heap.<br />

After clearing away the remains of<br />

last season’s crops, prepare the ground<br />

for immediate composting so that it<br />

will be in the right condition when this<br />

season’s plants are ready for the soil.<br />

In earlier columns I referred to<br />

companion planting where certain<br />

plants can be grown among vegetables<br />

to encourage growth or deter pests.<br />

In some cases, the flowers are used<br />

as sacrificial plants to protect the<br />

vegetables. Since the use of chemicals<br />

for these activities is being discouraged,<br />

now might be the time to conduct a<br />

trial of your own. Generally speaking,<br />

the companions should be planted at<br />

the end of rows and removed in the<br />

late autumn. <strong>The</strong>re are a great many<br />

combinations currently in use. Here are<br />

a few suggestions:<br />

• Beans: Nasturtium – attracts blackfly<br />

– sacrificial plant<br />

• Carrots: <strong>Spring</strong> onions amongst crop<br />

discourages carrot root fly<br />

• Cucumbers: Nasturtium attracts<br />

blackfly and improves flavour of<br />

cucumber<br />

• Potatoes: Chamomile enhances<br />

flavour and attract pollinators<br />

• Tomatoes: Basil improves growth and<br />

deters pests<br />

• Squash: Borage improves growth and<br />

flavour, attracts pollinators<br />

• Brassica’s: Chamomile aids growth<br />

and enhances flavour<br />

As can be seen, some of the<br />

companion plants can also be harvested<br />

for the kitchen. Badger<br />

Badger<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Cake</strong> • <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>2022</strong> 35

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